Creative HEAD UK October 21 by Alfol Publishing

£4.50 OCTOBER 2021

In print•online•everywhere everywhere!

M O D E E R F LET YOUR EATIVITY LOOSE AND CR

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YOUR SKILLS PLUS THE RIGHT TOOLS WILL ALLOW YOU TO UNTETHER YOUR TALENT AND CREATE ANYWHERE, EVEN ON A HALF PIPE…

Heart-pumping, sheer drops, the wind in your face… the freedom a set of wheels can give you is exhilarating. From boards to skates to bikes, they can take you where you need to go, where you want to go, where you have to go next. Captured on a summer’s day at Harrow skatepark, this Creative HEAD shoot in partnership with BaByliss PRO is a celebration of freedom. Session supremo Syd Hayes and key members of the #SydSquad – Sam Burnett, Paula McCash and Jody Taylor, all successful stylists in their own careers and with plenty to pass on – gathered to mentor four bright young talents on location, armed with BaByliss PRO’s line-up of cordless tools. Step forward Arif Arikan from Alice and the Hair, Georgia Freeman from Q Cut, Exaucè Imbo from EXSTUDIO, and Annabel Payne from Toni&Guy Salisbury. This was an opportunity for these young talents to experiment with their own creativity, the freedom to try their own ideas and make their mark. It could have been done in a studio, but for Syd the concept itself was uniquely personal…

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21/09/2021 14:38

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SYD

“I SORT OF GREW UP IN A SKATEPARK. YOU GET LOTS OF DIFFERENT CHARACTERS WITH DIFFERENT HAIRCUTS, DIFFERENT CULTURES, DIFFERENT BACKGROUNDS… IT DOESN’T MATTER WHERE YOU COME FROM, OR HOW YOU GREW UP, A SKATEPARK BRINGS YOU TOGETHER. "I FELT THAT IT WAS IMPORTANT TO CAPTURE BECAUSE THOSE KIDS AND THEIR CULTURE, THEIR HERITAGE, WHO THEY ARE, THEY’RE VERY PASSIONATE ABOUT THE WAY THEY LOOK. WE WANTED TO ENHANCE IT. "AS A STYLIST AND AS A BABYLISS AMBASSADOR, I WANT TO HELP BRING NEW TALENT ON AND EXCITE THEM ABOUT HAIR AND FASHION. THAT MEANS A LOT TO ME. THIS IS ABOUT CELEBRATING YOUTH CULTURE AND INSPIRING NEW HAIRDRESSERS TO COME INTO THE INDUSTRY, AS WELL AS THOSE STARTING OUT. THE BETTER PEOPLE ARE, THE BETTER IT MAKES YOU, THE MORE IT INSPIRES YOU…” COVER, PORTRAITS AND ACTION PHOTOGRAPHY BY JARED BECK BEHIND THE SCENES AND POLAROID PHOTOGRAPHY BY HARVEY WILLIAMS-FAIRLEY

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“YOU HAVE FREEDOM TO DO WHATEVER YOU PLEASE. YOU CAN BE AS CREATIVE AS YOU AS YOU WANT WHEN YOU’RE RIDING. IT’S JUST THAT FEELING OF NO WORRIES, IT’S GOOD THERAPY.”

ASH, BMX

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21/09/2021 11:14

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EX AGED 20, EXAUCÈ IMBO – JUST CALL HIM EX – IS ALREADY FOUNDER AND OWNER OF EXSTUDIO IN GLASGOW’S MILNPARK STREET. VISITING FAMILY WHEN CALLED TO THE SHOOT, EX HAD NO KIT WITH HIM. BUT SOMEONE PASSED HIM A CORDLESS BABYLISS PRO SUPER MOTOR CLIPPER AND HE STARTED TO FLY... “EX IS A BRAND I WOULD LIKE TO GROW. WE’VE HAD JERMAIN DEFOE, ODSONNE ÉDOUARD, AND WES NELSON COME IN, WHICH IS GOOD FOR HELPING THE BUSINESS. I WANT TO EXPAND, EXPAND, EXPAND! I ASKED MY MENTOR ON THE SHOOT, JODY TAYLOR, WHAT HE THINKS AND WHAT WE SHOULD DO, AND HE SAID: ‘BE FREE. JUST DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO.’ I FELT FREE TO PUT MY OWN INPUT INTO THE STYLES.”

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21/09/2021 14:39

“MY DAD SKATED BACK IN THE ’90S AND GOT ME STARTED. OF COURSE THERE ARE UPS AND DOWNS, BUT WHEN IT PAYS OFF – THAT’S THE FEELING EVERYONE SKATES FOR.”

Make-up by Manabu Nobuoka

ROCCO, SKATEBOARD

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“EX HAS INSPIRED ME IN TERMS OF HIS SKILL SET, HIS WORK, HOW HE’S SELF-TAUGHT. HE OWNS A SHOP, HE’S 20 YEARS OLD! I FEEL I CAN HELP HIM HAVE MORE CONFIDENCE IN HIS OWN ABILITY, THAT’S ALL THAT I NEED TO DO, AND JUST SHOWING HIM A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO HAIR WHEN YOU’RE WORKING IN THIS ENVIRONMENT. WITH ROCCO'S HAIR, IT'S KIND OF A DIY MULLET, REALLY COOL. WE DECIDED WE'D TAKE ONE SIDE EACH; WE SHAVED THE SIDES A BIT HIGHER WITH THE BABYLISS PRO SUPER MOTOR CLIPPER AND LEFT A BIT OF A WEDGE OVERHANGING AT THE BACK. THE LINE GOES ALL THE WAY THROUGH ON ONE SIDE, AND THE OTHER IS SLIGHTLY FADED WITH MORE WISPY BITS AROUND THE PERIMETER.” JODY TAYLOR, SESSION STYLIST, #SYDSQUAD LEFTSIDE-CREATIVE.COM MEN'S AMBASSADOR FOR BABYLISS EUROPE

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“I STARTED SKATING IN LOCKDOWN. I’D JUST COME OUT OF A LONG RELATIONSHIP SO IT HELPED ME THROUGH A LOT. IT’S THE ONLY TIME I CAN REALLY DO SOMETHING AND NOT THINK ABOUT ANYTHING BESIDES ACTUALLY BEING IN THE MOMENT. IT’S LIBERATING.”

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21/09/2021 11:17

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“THIS SHOOT IS A LOT ABOUT FREEDOM – THOSE YOUNG KIDS TURNING UP, HAVING CRAZY COLOURED HAIR AND AMAZING HAIRCUTS THAT YOU MIGHT NOT NORMALLY SEE ON THE STREET, THAT SCREAMS FREEDOM. WE’RE GONNA HAVE SOME CRAZY MULLETS, WILD COLOURS… THAT’S REALLY STREET, ISN’T IT?” PAULA MCCASH, SESSION STYLIST, #SYDSQUAD

PAULA ANNABEL

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BASED AT TONI&GUY SALISBURY, ANNABEL PAYNE WAS CROWNED THE 2020 IT LIST RISING STAR FOR HER DRIVE AND HER PASSION FOR EDITORIAL WORK. “I LOVE DAYS LIKE THIS, DOING A BIT MORE SESSION STYLING GIVES YOU VARIETY AND THE CLIENTS LOVE TO HEAR ABOUT IT AS WELL. IT FEELS LIKE WE’RE BRINGING OUT ALL OF THE MODELS’ PERSONALITIES, LIKE YOU’RE GIVING THEM SOMETHING THAT THEY’LL STILL LOVE WEARING WHEN THEY GO HOME. I REALLY LIKED CUTTING IN ROBYN’S FRINGE, USING THE BABYLISS PRO SUPER MOTOR TRIMMER. IT WASN’T A HUGE CHANGE BUT BEFORE SHE HAD A STANDARD FRINGE, AND SHE’S A REALLY COOL GIRL, SHE CAN REALLY SKATE, AND MAKING IT A BIT SHORTER, MAKING IT A BIT CHOPPIER, I FELT I WAS SHOWING OFF HER PERSONALITY MORE, MAKING IT MUCH MORE LIKE HER OVERALL AESTHETIC.”

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“SKATING MAKES YOU FEEL FREE AND LIBERATED, AND I’M ABLE TO EXPRESS MYSELF IN WAYS THAT I WOULDN’T NORMALLY BE ABLE TO. IF I’M SKATING ON MY OWN THEN I’LL HAVE MUSIC ON, ANYTHING FROM MILES DAVIS TO MEGADETH.”

ALEX, SKATEBOARD

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21/09/2021 11:18

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“I LOVE MUSIC, THAT’S WHAT BROUGHT ME INTO SKATING. MY MOST RECENT SKATE SESSIONS HAVE BEEN VERY SUCCESSFUL – WELL, I WAS HAPPY WITH MYSELF BECAUSE NOT EVERY DAY IS A BRILLIANT DAY – AND I WAS LISTENING TO SOME ERYKAH BADU. SKATING IS AN ESCAPE, IT FULFILS ME.”

ALI, SKATEBOARD

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“I STARTED SKATING BECAUSE MY FRIEND GOT ME A BOARD, IT WAS VERY HARD AND I LIKE CHALLENGES! I DON’T KNOW, IT JUST TOOK ME AWAY FROM THINGS. SKATING MAKES ME FEEL GOOD, SATISFIED.”

KURTIS, SKATEBOARD

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21/09/2021 11:20

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“I GREW UP IN SAN DIEGO AND IT WAS EITHER SURF OR SKATE! I’M DEFINITELY A STREET SKATER, IT MAKES ME FEEL EXCITED, LIBERATED. IT’S SPECIAL, TO FEEL EMPOWERED AND STRONG, TO FEEL I CAN DO ANYTHING.”

ROSE, SKATEBOARD

GEORGIA GEORGIA FREEMAN ORIGINALLY TRAINED FOR THE THEATRE BUT UNFORTUNATELY THE DREAM DIDN’T MATERIALISE… BUT THANK GOODNESS, BECAUSE THEN SHE FOUND HAIR! BASED AT Q CUT – THE SALON HOME OF SYD HAYES – SHE’S FAST BECOMING THE PERFECT TEAM PLAYER ON SHOOTS AND IN THE SALON. “FOR THIS SHOOT, I SPENT FIVE HOURS DOING THESE CRAZY COLOURS FOR ELLY AND THAT’S JUST SO DIFFERENT TO ANYTHING THAT I NORMALLY GET TO DO. KURTIS ARRIVED WITH A BIT OF A COOL MULLET ALREADY, BUT WE JUST WANTED TO EXAGGERATE THAT, SO I WENT IN WITH THE BABYLISS PRO SUPER MOTOR CLIPPERS ON THE SIDE.”

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“SKATEBOARDING IS THE BEST FEELING. IT’S GREAT TO GET AWAY FROM STRESS, ESPECIALLY DURING LOCKDOWN. THERE WAS NOTHING ELSE TO DO.”

“I STARTED SKATING ABOUT A YEAR AGO DURING THE PANDEMIC. WHEN YOU’RE IN THE MIDDLE OF IT, YOU’RE JUST SO FREE. IT’S ABSOLUTE FREEDOM.”

ELLIE, ROLLER SKATES

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Elly and Ellie make-up by Manabu Nobuoka

ELLY, SKATEBOARD

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A MEMBER OF THE FELLOWSHIP’S PROJECT X TEAM – CURRENTLY MENTORED BY SAM BURNETT – ARIF ARIKAN IS BASED IN DERBY AT ALICE AND THE HAIR AS A SENIOR STYLIST, WITH LOTS MORE PROJECTS ON THE HORIZON… “WITH ELLY, WE'RE CREATING QUITE A STRONG GRAPHIC MULLET, CUTTING THE TOP QUITE SHORT WITH A REALLY NICE, CURVED AND STRONG FRINGE AND ADDING LOTS OF TEXTURE. WE’RE USING THE NEW BABYLISS CORDLESS HOT BRUSH, JUST SO WE CAN CONTROL THE ROOTS A LITTLE BIT AND HELP IT SIT FORWARD. MY WORK IS QUITE FRESH, I TEND NOT TO BE FOCUSED SO MUCH ON POLISH – IT’S MORE ABOUT CREATING MULLETS AND CREATIVE COLOURS AND EXPRESSING MY INDIVIDUALITY.”

ARIF

SAM “FREEDOM MEANS NO BOUNDARIES. LIMITLESS CREATIVITY. I BELIEVE IN GIVING BACK. IT’S REALLY IMPORTANT TO SHARE SKILLS, TO GIVE NEW STYLISTS CONFIDENCE. ONE OF MY FAVOURITE TRICKS IN THE HAIR WORLD IS BEING ABLE TO WORK REMOTELY LIKE THIS. WE'VE GOT REALLY COOL TOOLS, FROM CLIPPERS TO CURLING TONGS… IN A SKATE PARK! THAT'S A PRETTY COOL TRICK.” SAM BURNETT, HARE & BONE FOUNDER, #SYDSQUAD

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“I GOT BULLIED GROWING UP AND SKATING HELPED ME A LOT. PEOPLE FROM OUTSIDE THINK: ‘OH SKATING IS BAD, PEOPLE IN SKATING DON’T DO ANYTHING.’ BUT THEY DON'T UNDERSTAND THAT SKATING IS A COMMUNITY, THEY WILL HELP YOU THROUGH ANYTHING. THEY DON’T UNDERSTAND HOW GOOD SKATERS ARE TOGETHER. IT’S LIKE A FAMILY.”

KARAN, SKATEBOARD

Hair Sam Burnett, Paula McCash, Jody Taylor, Arif Arikan, Georgia Freeman, Exaucè Imbo, Annabel Payne (with Ellie’s cut and colour by Ernie Mažonatie at Hare & Bone). Led by Syd Hayes. Make-up Elin Jones, Manabu Nobuoka. Models Alex (@alex.rennick), Ali (@nazgotroach), Ash (@ashdouglasbmx), Ellie (@elliefelicityclarkson), Elly (@pirate.quinn), Karan (@karan_official1), Kurtis (@kurtis0connor), Robyn (@ robn_roll), Rocco(@roccobrivati) and Rose (@jensenroro), at Autumn Jensen Casting. Cover, portraits and action photography Jared Beck. Photography assistants Pierre Lequeux, Morgan Shaw. Behind the scenes and Polaroid photography Harvey Williams-Fairley. Digital technician Brian Clever. Production The Creative Partnerships Team at Creative HEAD. In partnership with BaByliss PRO. Shot on location at Harrow skatepark.

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21/09/2021 11:23

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w ho m, RO a e P t s the Bylis ping m a o B rop fr re their w-d , visit o a j m d ot see lde me ho com To y wie nd so the s ag. m the ols a from head e to lm fi eativ cr 001_CoverFinal.indd 18

21/09/2021 11:23

VE RT OR IAL CR EATIV E HE AD AD

THE U O Y G N I V I G N ATIO V O N N I S S I L Y B … A E B B T Y S A E T M A L U E O Y H T R T EVE R MEE E . H S E I W R , A E V D I N T A U E O R B C NO CORDS = NO FREEDOM YOU NEED TO GET BABYLISS HAS THE capsule collection of cord-free creative powerhouses to let you do what you really want to do, where and how you want to do it. Fresh to the powered-up pack is the BaByliss Cordless Hot Brush, a lifesaver that gives you height, lift and a smooth finish in a flash. The Cordless Hot Brush illustrates how BaByliss is always moving forward, developing tools to make your work that much simpler. It all started with the now iconic BaByliss 9000, the cordless straightener that made Fashion Week regulars coo with appreciation. Hot on its heels were the Cordless Waving Wand and Cordless Curling Tong, delivering perfectly set and finished waves and an impressive 40-minute run time. What’s also impressive is the advanced heating technology. Its Micro-Heating Matrix heaters are formed

precisely to the shape of the tool. That’s unique to this cable-free line-up, and ensures you get results. But this is also a story about the long and the short of it; the BaByliss PRO Super Motor Range has been a weapon of choice for barbers for a while now. The Clipper is the original hero product for its high-torque motor and supersharp Japanese steel blades, while the Trimmer has been engineered for precision for closer results than ever before. The Skeleton Trimmer has been designed with detail in mind, while the Titanium Foil Shaver and Single Shaver deliver detail for fading and blending. All cordless, all geared to work hard for you, wherever you are. So what are you doing to do next?

SEE MORE ABOUT THE NEW BABYLISS CORDLESS HOT BRUSH AND THE FULL CORDLESS LINE-UP AT BABYLISS.CO.UK @BABYLISSPROUK

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21/09/2021 11:24

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AND RECEIVE THE KMS SOLID SHAMPOO BAR COLLECTION, WORTH

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YOU’LL GET • 10 issues of Creative HEAD

magazine delivered to your door

• Exclusive ticket prices for Creative HEAD events**

• Exclusive competitions and prizes

• Free product samples from leading professional brands

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The ﬁrst 20 new Creative HEAD Club members will receive all three KMS Solid Shampoo Bars: MOISTREPAIR, ADDVOLUME and HEADREMEDY. KMS Solid Shampoo Bars have been created as part of KAO Salon’s increased commitment to sustainability. Each bar is highly concentrated and formulated with natural ingredients, delivering the same professionallevel performance as KMS liquid shampoos. They are free from sulphates, silicones, alcohol, synthetic colourants and animal-derived ingredients. The solid formula is designed to save water during product development, reducing plastic and packing materials while lessening CO2 emissions. Already a Creative HEAD Club member? Then we’ve got something for you too! One lucky member will win a bumper bundle of KMS products, worth £150. For more information, visit kmshair.com

*For the ﬁrst 20 new members to sign up between 1 October and 31 October 2021. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered. **Selected events only, for more details contact events@alfol.co.uk

CLUB

21/09/2021 11:28

Powered by advanced lithium technology for ultimate cordless cutting performance. Our heavy-duty Super Motor range of professional grooming tools feature ultra-sharp Japanese Steel blades and a high-torque brushless motor for smooth precision cutting, outlining and detailing. And the Titanium Foil Shaver gives exceptional fading and blending.

PATENTED INNOVATION* NEW

Metal Detox

Complement your colour, balayage and lightening services. Designed to help neutralise excess copper. Enriched with Glicoamine. Up to 87% less breakage.1 Reliable colour result on hair with excess copper.

scan with your phone to know more about

Metal Detox

*Pre-treatment: patent granted in UK. Shampoo: patent granted in UK. Mask: patent granted in: France, USA, Brazil, China, Japan and Mexico. 1. Combing test. Metal Detox pre-treatment, bleaching procedure, shampoo, mask vs bleaching procedure, classic shampoo

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26/08/2021 09:17

Bumble and bumble.

Bumble and bumble began as a New York City salon in 1977, where our Bumble and bumble hairdressers clipped, coloured, and styled their way into prominence in magazines, on runways, and backstage around the world. We are inspired by masters of the craft – hair stylists and colorists who are obsessed with technical and artistic excellence through bold self-expression. We invent products to meet these professionals’ exacting standards that are also easy enough for anyone to use. From the iconic, wave-enhancing Surf Spray to the bestselling, mega-moisturizing Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil range, these well-loved products are used by the pros in Bumble and bumble salons and by millions of people around the world at home every day. We create products for all hair types, textures, and styles with uncompromising quality to instantly elevate personal style with an effortlessly modern look. Always cruelty free. Here at Bumble and bumble, we are deeply, passionately, and fearlessly dedicated to the craft of hair. We invite you to join us. Email: oabergel@bumbleandbumble.co.uk or Call: 07747 648 935 @bumbleandbumbleuk @bumblepro

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26/08/2021 09:17

Editor’s letter

28 16

JOIN US!

“THE UK SALON will never be the same again”. That’s the opening line to our industry study On the Floor, and we do not make that statement lightly. We sat down with salon employers, employed stylists and independent stylists from across the UK to ask them about their working lives, their challenges, their headaches, their businesses. The key element? We promised them anonymity, to allow them to speak freely and frankly. And boy, did they. I urge you to digest this superlative report, from page 46, penned by publisher Catherine Handcock and created to share potential solutions for the way forward too. If you have any thoughts, email me (address below) as this is a dialogue we plan to keep running, to help everyone in the industry to better understand each other, and to build better workplaces for all. We also have a stonkingly brilliant round up of ALL of our 2021 Most Wanted and The It List Awards action in our souvenir supplement. It was a night that showcased salon employers, young guns, employed stylists and colourists and independents – a celebration of the modern make-up of our industry. The UK salon will never be the same again? Good, because who wants everything to stay the same?

Amanda Nottage Editor

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

What a month September was! We welcomed back the IRL Most Wanted and The It List Grand Final at Printworks London as 600 guests gathered to crown the stars of 2021 – see the winners on page 16! Relive it all in the MWIT21 souvenir supplement! Then, parties erupted as the Big Hair Do returned for a big salon night in! October has plenty in store too… It’s the ﬁnal Coterie of the year in Glasgow on 25 October, ﬂick to page 66 for the line-up. Have you heard about Activator? A free new mentoring scheme from Creative HEAD and The Industry – see page 64. Finally, head to Salon Smart HUB – we’ve got exclusive advice from Most Wanted Business Thinker Legend, Sophia Hilton – see page 68. creativeheadmag.com/events

@creativeheadmag

21/09/2021 16:05

With replaceable customisable colour sleeves

Scan the QR code for loads more info

divapro.co.uk

October WHAT’S INSIDE

ON THE COVER

CUT TECHNICALLY, STYLE NATURALLY

ON THE FLOOR

Rino Riccio on the Manifesto mantra and what made him an award-winning barber

Hair by Sam Burnett and Arif Arikan. Colour by Georgia Freeman. Make-up by Manabu Nobuoka. Led by Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO. Photography by Jared Beck. For full credits, please see the cover section

Our must-read special report on the future of employment in the industry

FREE WITH THIS ISSUE! THE MOST WANTED & THE IT LIST AWARDS GRAND FINAL 2021

CHRISTMAS SPECIAL

Make your presents known and have your tills ringing in the New Year!

EDITOR

DIGITAL DESIGNER

DEPUTY EDITOR

ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT

AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

ART

EVA VESTMANN

KELSEY DRING

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

GRAEME WHITE

ALISON ROWLEY

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

ADAM WOOD

LAURA TUCKER

creativeheadmag.com

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CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ASSISTANT NATASHA PEARS

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER JENNY BROOKS

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

creativeheadmagofficial

SO, WE WENT OUT-OUT!

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certiﬁed as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, PO Box 289, Hexham, NE46 9HJ 01434 610416 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

21/09/2021 11:31

Get Instagram bookings on a roll Supercharge your Instagram with Slick Turn followers into bookings and win new clients

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@gettingslick | www.getslick.com/instagram | info@getslick.com

Images courtesy of Dyson, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, McClusky PR, and Toni&Guy

Victoria Beckham

Bora Aksu

Mark Fast

Nostalgia is alive and kicking! The limited edition L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Steampod 3.0 x Barbie is punchy pink perfection for festive retail this season. lorealpartnershop.com/uk

LFW S/S22:

Erdem

Rejina Pyo

MOST WANTED AND The It List Awards returned with a bang as the industry came out dressed to the nines for the first big IRL event since the start of the pandemic. It was a Grand Final to remember for so many reasons, with Syd Hayes crowned Most Wanted Hair Icon for the first time, mere moments after scooping Most Wanted Session Stylist, following a blistering year. It means he’ll be crowned a Most Wanted Legend in 2022 following three Session Stylist victories. We were also seeing double as Trevor Sorbie’s Guiseppe Stelitano took home not only The It List Visionary title, but also The It Guy 2021 award. Sophia Hilton’s Most Wanted Business Thinker win means she will be a double Most Wanted Legend, having now won the title three times, and following her Most Wanted Legend status in 2020 after three Most Wanted Colour Expert victories. Anna Cofone won Most Wanted Independent Stylist for the second year in a row, while Stag also got to take home its second Most Wanted trophy in as many years winning Best Salon Team, following its 2020 Best Local Salon win. The Grand Final, held at iconic clubbing venue Printworks London, was buzzing as the 600 plus assembled guests – armed with NHS COVID Passes – dressed up to get down with their peers. Comic Russell Kane had a roaming role among the crowd, while Adam Reed and his ghd team brought down the house with an epic stage show. Want to see all the action? Check out the souvenir supplement, free with this issue

David Koma

SEEING DOUBLE AT MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST 2021

Emilia Wickstead

R INDUSTRY THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOU

WHERE LESS IS MORE IRL FASHION SHOWS finally returned to the capital after a full year’s hiatus. While some brands chose to continue with digital presentations, runway hair was back at London Fashion Week – albeit more muted than in previous years. Daniel Martin for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris created an effortlessly cool feel at Bora Aksu, while Ali Pirzadeh went for a polished, sporty vibe to match the London Aquatic Centre venue at Rejina Pyo, using Tecni.ART Transformer Lotion gel for a slick shine. Shaun McIntosh made it a L’Oréal Professionnel Paris triplet for Emilia Wickstead, with modern twists on bygone era of styling. Erdem enlisted Larry King to create a similar period feel with modern flair, using Dyson’s new Flyaway attachment to ensure hair was swept back into thigh-skimming plaits styled with Redken. Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas and Efi Davies created wet-look lengths with late ’30s touches courtesy of label.m to pair with David Koma’s study of swimsuit attire. Maria Kovacs kept busy across multiple shows – we loved the contrast of riotous curls and sleek straight textures for irreverent ’90s It Girls at Mark Fast, using Schwarzkopf Professional. Personalisation was the name of the game at Victoria Beckham, as Cyndia Harvey used the ghd unplugged styler to create slept-in bends.

The P R Brief

SLBPR’S SHARON BRIGDEN SHARES HER MUST-DOS FOR OCTOBER

Let’s talk the dreaded C word, because you have a huge opportunity this year, with so many people ready to celebrate Christmas, along with Hanukkah and Diwali, in style!

DO THIS NOW • Work out your opening times and tell clients. Say appointments are going fast so they need to get theirs in quick – create demand. • For those wanting colour or any treatment that takes time, remember to ask for a deposit. • If you haven’t ordered your Christmas packs yet then get on the phone! You also need pics and prices to post on social media or create your own packs.

• Offer a collection service or mail out products to those who can’t get to the salon but want to buy gifts, and gift vouchers are a must! • If you have quiet days, send staff out to drop flyers promoting services and gifts to local businesses. • If there are any big companies nearby having a real-life Christmas party, offer to create a package for their staff to come straight from work to get glammed up. And think about doing the same for New Year’s Eve.

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21/09/2021 16:06

#CHedit KAO CREATIVE AWARDS REVEAL UK WINNERS Paris, McClusky PR, and Toni&Guy

CASEY COLEMAN OF CHAIR Studio is the national winner of the Editorial Colourist category at KAO’s Creative Awards, earning him a spot in the global ﬁnals. Katie Drury of Martin Crean at MODE scooped New Talent Colourist of the Year and will also be duking it out with colourists from around the world. They will face global competition at the KAO Salon Virtual Experience this month.

L’Oréal reveals second phase of Total Texture ABIGAIL BUTLER, DEXTER Dapper Johnson and Danielle Louis join Charlotte Mensah as educators in new Curls & Coils training by L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. The second phase of its recent launch of Total Texture, Curls & Coils covers the core skills across cutting, colouring, styling and caring for curls and coils, as well as wigs, weaves and braids. The Total Texture online training course covers the theory behind all hair textures, and the technical programme comprises five e-learning modules on L’Oréal Access.

DON’T FORGET YOU CAN ENJOY THE INTERNATIONAL VISIONARY AWARDS ON 9 OCTOBER AND THE VIRTUAL ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW 2021, TITLED ILLUMIERE, ON 10 OCTOBER VIRTUALLY. BUY YOUR DIGITAL PASS NOW AT ALTERNATIVEHAIR.ORG

188,400

The average number of daily global Google searches for Billie Eilish hair looks, the top-ranked celebrity hair inspiration search across a 12-month period in a survey by Tajmeeli. Selena Gomez, Ariana Grande, Rihanna and Emily Watson made up the rest of the top ﬁve searches.

ANTI-DOMESTIC VIOLENCE EXPERT UNVEILED

Salon business expert Liz McKeon is the first ambassador for Shear Haven anti-domestic violence salon training in the UK and Ireland. The education programme equips stylists with the knowledge and resources to recognise the signs of domestic violence, successfully navigate conversations with clients who may be in danger, and pass along tools that can help them get to safety. The training is made up of a 20-minute online session followed by a short quiz. After completion, each participant receives a certificate of achievement. To date, more than 25,000 beauty professionals around the world have taken the training.

CREATIVE HEAD

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Meet the new ClubStar Art Team

THE 2022 CLUBSTAR Art Team has been unveiled by the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. The 12 ﬁnalists worked on a live model and presented mood boards to judges Grace Dalgleish from Brooks & Brooks, Simon Tuckwell, and team leader and Most Wanted Hair Trend winner, Karoliina Saunders. The new members will enjoy mentoring, networking and workshops. They are: Sam Bickle, Urban Edge Shenﬁeld; Joshua Easter, VAE Hair; James Farrer, Toni&Guy; Victoria Hughes, Melissa Timperley Salons; Jacqueline Kankam-Hoppe, Karine Jackson Sustainable Hair; Zoe Leaves, Zoe Leaves Hair; and Abby Quinn, Karoliina Saunders Hair Design.

MY month

AHEAD

What October has in store for... KAT DUKE

WILLIAM GUY

I’m busy preparing for the Wella TrendVision Award ﬁnals: creating a moodboard, perfecting my formulas and hunting for a show-stopping model! I’m also going to be super-busy behind the chair this month creating beautiful colour for my clients as well.

GIUSEPPE STELITANO TREVOR SORBIE

I have the MWIT winners’ brunch coming up, which is an opportunity to to catch up with all the winners from Creative HEAD’s awards. The Trevor Sorbie artistic team is working on some new ideas too, so I’ve got a calendar full of meetings with photographers and stylists. 2021

2021

MOVERS AND SHAKERS Tom Rolt is the new general manager for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. Max Amen has been appointed Wella Company general manager UK & Ireland, taking over responsibility from Nick van Holstein. Michael Convey has been revealed as brand ambassador for OSMO.

21/09/2021 16:07

RETURN OF THE MWIT! WELCOME OUR NEW CHAMPIONS OF INDUSTRY, THE TALENTED TRAILBLAZERS IN BRITISH AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING THAT ARE PROUD OWNERS OF SHINY NEW TROPHIES. THIS AWE�INSPIRING CREW ARE THE YOUNG GUNS OF TOMORROW, THE FASH PACK’S FINEST, THE DREAM TEAMS, THE BIZ WHIZZES, THE COLOUR MAESTROS, THE CREATIVE AUTEURS, THE HEROES OF THE HOOD, THE ECO WARRIORS, THE ABSOLUTE LEGENDS. IT’S TIME TO MEET OUR MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARD WINNERS OF 2021!

20 21

EXCLUSIVELY SPONSORED BY

THE RISING STAR Millie Bloy

CODE Hair Consultants, Lowestoft

THE EDITORIAL STYLIST Ellie Bond Essex

THE ENTREPRENEUR Brooke Evans

BE Ironbridge, Telford

THE VISIONARY

Giuseppe Stelitano Trevor Sorbie, London

THE IT GUY

Giuseppe Stelitano Trevor Sorbie, London

THE IT GIRL

Harriet Stokes

Humankind Hair, London

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17/09/2021 11:11

2021 WINNERS NAMED TEXTURE EXPERT Sponsored by

Lisa Farrall

SESSION STYLIST Sponsored by

WIG London

Syd Hayes

CREATIVE TALENT Sponsored by

BUSINESS THINKER

HAIR ICON

Paddy McDougall

Sophia Hilton

Syd Hayes

Sponsored by

Rainbow Room International, Glasgow

Not Another, London

COLOUR EXPERT

MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST

Sponsored by

Ashleigh Hodges

Sponsored by

Rino Riccio

Hairdotcom Art Team, London

Manifesto, London

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

HAIR TREND

Sponsored by

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

BEST SALON TEAM

Mark Woolley for Electric Space

Stag

Edinburgh

SUSTAINABILITY HERO Sponsored by

BEST LOCAL SALON

Keith Mellen & Anne Veck

Cùrlach

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Creative Talent 2018, 2019, 2020

Caroline Sanderson

Business Thinker 2013, 2015, 2020

Sponsored by

London

Anne Veck Oxford

Zoë Irwin

Karoliina Saunders

Karoliina Saunders Hair Design, Swindon

Sponsored by

LEGEND

Sponsored by

Anna Cofone London

Sponsored by

Glasgow

MWIT21

Laughter! Tears! Fashion! Drama! See all the juicy goodness from the om. Grand Final at creativeheadmag.c and s ner win our t And you can mee er salivate over our legendary Jon Bak ve lusi exc backstage shoot, only in our MWIT souvenir supplement, free with this issue!

17/09/2021 11:11

Monotone lovers will want the new grey and black tones joining CHROMA ID’s Bonding Colour Mask collection, courtesy of Schwarzkopf Professional. There are also four new at-home Bonding Colour Mask colours.

Sure to jump right off the shelves, Indola has relaunched a new and improved care and styling range that contains everything a stylist on the go needs.

RRP FROM £5.30 01422 278 000 indola.co.uk

This kit roll from Leaf Scissors is made from ecofriendly, organically grown cotton, and for every one sold, Leaf will plant 10 trees!

PRICE £25 CUSTOMERSERVICE@ LEAFSCISSORS.COM leafscissors.com

IN-SALON SERVICE, RRP £24.75 EACH 0800 328 6920 schwarzkopfpro.com

Aveda’s hydrating Nutriplenish Curl Gelée helps creates soft, smooth, shiny and defined waves, curls, and coils with a 96 per cent naturally derived, cruelty-free, vegan, and silicone-free formula.

RRP £26.50 0370 192 5650 aveda.co.uk

Make hair bloom with Semi Di Lino SCALP by ALFAPARF Milano, comprising four retail ranges: Renew for hair loss, Rebalance for dandruff, Rebalance for oily hair and Relief for sensitive scalps.

Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team

Clients love a hard-working yet invisible beauty treat, and Bumble and bumble’s iconic Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil is already a firm favourite. But now we have a new three-piece line-up to add hydration to the driest locks. Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Ultra Rich is a skincare-inspired collection that includes a colour-safe and sulphate-free cleanser Ultra Rich Shampoo and Conditioner. But the powerhouse of the bunch is the multi-tasking Hyaluronic Treatment Lotion, formulated with hyaluronic acid and Kalahari melon seed oil. RRP FROM £25.50 07747 648 935 bumbleandbumble.co.uk

Spécifique from Kérastase is the ultimate detox for hair and scalp, with a new clay shampoo, balancing shampoo, hydrating masque, and Potentialiste Serum, rich in vitamin C to keep skin tip-top.

RRP FROM £23.50 0800 085 4958 lorealpartnershop.com/uk

Redken’s new Extreme Mask is the ideal third step in a selfcare hair routine, following a shampoo and conditioner, to intensely treat and repair, damaged hair.

RRP £27 0800 030 4034 lorealpartnershop.com/uk

RRP FROM £12.95

alfaparfmilano.com

Get holistic with multitasking hybrids from AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Beyond Hair. There’s Hand & Hair Light Cream, leavein Enhancing Water and Hydrating Jelly Mask for hair and scalp.

Schwarzkopf Professional has developed Scalp Clinix, an extension of its Fibre Clinix range, formulated with Microbiome Active Technology to target scalp concerns.

RRP FROM £22.50 0800 328 6920

RRP FROM £17 0800 328 6920

authenticbeautyconcept.co.uk 18

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schwarzkopfpro.com

New from Leyton House, FillerPlex(EBR) works from the outside in, surrounding hair fibres with a protective webbing to mend broken bonds during a chemical service.

IN-SALON SERVICE

leytonhouseprofessional.com CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2021 15:22

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Cable-free and loving it, BaByliss has embraced the world of cordless with an ever-expanding range of tools that allow stylists and barbers to do what they do best, pretty much wherever they need to do it. Now, while this collection is growing wider, the newest launch is all about getting higher... and smoother. The BaByliss Cordless Hot Brush is your new root saviour, creating volume at the base while also being a dab hand at smoothing out lengths. This is all thanks to its super-clever Micro-Heating Matrix heaters which, unlike other heaters, are formed precisely to the shape of the brush. The result is brilliantly consistent, delivering even heat with no hotspots and long-lasting results even when styling at lower temperatures. You’ll also find two different lengths of bristles in order to better pick up hair, delivering a smoother result when released. Get stuck in and get lifting…

RRP £180 0370 513 3191 babyliss.co.uk

IT’S ALL ABOUT… BOOSTERS New to Rossano Ferretti’s Dolce range, Satin Glow Booster is a vegan leave-in spray designed to boost styling results while improving strength and softness, and can be used with Great Lengths hair extensions.

RRP £34 0113 278 1292 greatlengths.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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Waterless and portable, Alterna’s new CAVIAR Moisture Intensive Ceramide Shots can be used on damp or dry hair as a multibenefit leave-in to reduce frizz and breakage while adding strength.

RRP £45.95 AVAILABLE AT ALAN HOWARD AND SALON PROMOTIONS alternahaircare.eu

21/09/2021 15:22

COLOUR VISION

IT’S TIME FOR THE BIG COUNTDOWN TO CHRISTMAS. IT’S ALL IN THE PREP AND THE PLANNING! WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS HERE TO HELP THIS BE THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR FOR YOU IN ASSOCIATION WITH

DON’T FADE YOUR GREY

Life in lockdown made us all take stock, find new perspectives, re-evaluate our priorities. For some clients, that meant not only learning to live with their grey but embracing it with gusto. While that might strike fear into many hairdressers’ hearts, it shouldn’t – Wella Professionals has a whole new way to service greys and boost that bill with True Grey, so now is absolutely the right time to nail your silver skills. The Mastering Grey course is spot-on for those stylists looking to advance their grey hair expertise, available as either a digital-only or blended learning experience. You’ll learn how to identify and overcome grey hair challenges, better understand the ageing process for hair and skin, and discover the right services and techniques for greyhaired clients. Put together, the course will ensure that you will be able to deliver a long-term journey plan for your grey clients by truly understanding their needs. Want to win your silver medal? Join the virtual classroom or mix in a day in the Studio for a face-to-face workshop. Dates are available in October in Manchester and November in London. Contact your Wella studio, London: 0203 650 4700, wellastudiolondon@wella.com Manchester: 0161 834 2645, wellastudiomanchester@wella.com

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN… AND EVERY MONTH WE SPEAK TO A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT ABOUT A KEY ISSUE FOR HOW TO OVERCOME IT. LARA JOHNSON (@LARAJOHNSONLIFESTYLE) HAS A SUREFIRE RECIPE SUCCESS WHEN IT COMES TO AVOIDING CHRISTMAS DIARY DISASTERS “We’re very religious about clients booking their next appointment, we always have been – but particularly for Christmas. We encourage clients from September to be booking ahead not just one, but two appointments. We’ve explained that if you want your hair for the right party, for the right night, then don’t leave it too late. There’s always that little period of time in November where there’s not a lot going on, where people believe they should hold out until Christmas to book in, thinking it’s too early. So, what we do is we ask everybody to just embrace it; we try to encourage the first of the two appointments, in late October or November, to be for the bigger services. We do all the big jobs then, all the balayages and the extensive colour work, and then their December appointments are your quick-fix appointments: toners, pop of colours, styling. The Wella Color Fresh Masks with a fabulous blow-dry, that sort of thing. It also allows more of a flow through the salon in the busy Christmas period, where we’re able to get more hands on deck because even the younger team members can add toner or brighten up the money piece around the hairline. “And then we also have time to create the Christmas packs; clients go home with a pack that is better value for money with samples, conditioner and so on. We’ve got more control. It’s about educating our clients to suit them, but also suits our needs. In the past, when you overdo it, get to Christmas Eve and we all collapse... we’ve beaten that now because we start more in a controlled way. That leaves January all set for the fresh new looks that are always wanted!” 20

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CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2021 15:23

SHELFIE TIME True Grey is like nothing else you have ever worked with – its unique technology and bespoke tonal palette needs the right care companion. Elements is the perfect partner, with its collection of gentle products designed for the wellbeing of your client’s hair and scalp. Grey hair can come with some challenges – it can be soft, fluffy and hard to manage as well as lacking shine. Elements has a solution for all these client challenges. My hero product is Elements Renewing Leave-In Spray, as it works as both a great cutting lotion and allows my clients to easily style their hair at home without making the hair limp and flat.”

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

#ColourVision

SUSANNE ALPHONSE COMMERCIAL EDUCATION MANAGER, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

WHY I’M WELLA

Wella Professionals’ extensive palette of colours is one of the broadest in the professional industry. The product portfolio is undoubtedly the greatest, which allows me complete freedom to create and innovate. “I quite simply adore Wella. Our relationship dates back to the very early days of my career and, in many ways, I feel like I have grown my career alongside this phenomenal colour house. Historically I have worked closely with its outstanding R&D department, and I know its colour range is the most innovative and high performing in the market today. I have always been inspired and excited to help Wella develop breakthrough technology that really supports creativity but also helps to build successful businesses. “Since the newly formed Wella Company was announced earlier this year there is a renewed sense of energy, and I am incredibly excited to be part of the Wella family again. Wella embodies precision, boldness and creativity, virtues that have always attracted me to this iconic brand.” JOSH WOOD WELLA COLOUR VISIONARY

NO MATTER WHAT YOU’RE FACED WITH, WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS THE SUPPORT, EDUCATION AND PRODUCTS TO EQUIP YOU WITH CAREERMAKING CONFIDENCE. DISCOVER MORE ABOUT HOW WELLA PROFESSIONALS CAN SUPPORT YOU ON YOUR JOURNEY AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM @WellaHairUKI #WellaColour #MakeChange CREATIVE HEAD

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WellaUKI 21

17/09/2021 11:13

21-00291-AP True Grey CH - DPS Ad.indd 3

05/08/2021 11:34

The world’s 1

IN-SALON SILVER TREATMENT FOR REVITALISING NATURALLY GREY HAIR* FREE OF COMMITMENT. FREE OF DAMAGE.

Discover the product here.

Learn the NEW Silver Glow service here.

Don’t forget to book onto the NEW ‘Mastering Greys’ studio course and online seminar. Education.wella.com | uk.wella.professionalstore.com | @WellaHairUKI | #WellaColour

*Combining: Free of perfume and alkalizers such as ammonia or ethanolamineoxidative grey pigments pH7

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05/08/2021 11:35

Colour Craft Specialist Programme E L E VAT E YO U R C R A F T W I T H T H E

20%

D iscou nt

Now available e it h e r d ig it ally or in t h e st ud i o !

Total cost : £695 / €875 Excl. VAT The perfect way to begin, restart, or recap the fundamentals of your Wella colour journey! This programme combines four of our most popular and essential colour courses together:

COLOUR CRAFT ESSENTIAL

COLOUR CRAFT CORRECTION

Fundamentals and principles of hair colour, plus an in-depth look at the Wella portfolio

Everything you need to know to approach corrective challenges with confidence

COLOUR CRAFT HIGHLIGHTS

Fine-tune your skill and technique of this essential colour service

COLOUR GENIUS Explore the world of editorial and creative colour

*20% saving when compared with the cost of booking the four courses separately

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08/09/2021 14:15

After completing the Colour Craft Specialist Programme, you will have learnt everything you need toknow to run and grow a successful colour column, including the Wella colour product portfolio, techniques, formulas, placement, and even the latest colour trends and palettes.

You will also have completed the four pre-requisite courses that we ask you to undertake before enrolling on the prestigious Master Colour Programme – so this is a fantastic step for your career path to becoming an elite level colourist! THE 9-WEEK DIGITAL PROGRAMME INCLUDES:

THE FACE-TO-FACE STUDIO PROGRAMME INCLUDES:

• 6 x ‘virtual classrooms’ (training session via Zoom) hosted by Wella Educators • Self-directed study on our e-Education website

• Attending your chosen Wella Studio (London, Manchester or Dublin) for a total of 7 days. You can select which suit you best from a list of available dates

• 4 x model assignments for you to complete in salon or at home

• Typically the programme is spread over 2-6 months, depending on which dates you select

• Online tests

• Each day will include hands-on workshop sessions on live models, alongside theory and demonstrations

• Feedback and mentoring from your Wella Educator • Contact and open discussion with your fellow students

• Enjoy face-to-face interaction with your fellow students and our superb Educators in our state-of-the-art Studio facilities!

BOTH PROGRAMMES ARE PERFECT FOR YOU IF: • You’re a new colourist looking to learn the colour fundamentals, along with an introduction to creative colour • You’re a mid-level colourist looking to gain confidence in your decisions, strengthen your knowledge of colour science and expand on your creative skills • You’re an experienced colourist looking to complete the pre-requisite courses before enrolling on the Master Colour Programme

Wella Studio London

WellaStudioLondon@wella.com 0203 650 4700

2021 Creative Head Magazine Colour Craft .indd 3

BOOK NOW

Wella Studio Dublin

WellaStudioDublin@wella.com 01 416 0900

Wella Studio Manchester

WellaStudioManchester@wella.com 0161 834 2645

08/09/2021 14:15

WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I started working in a salon on a Saturday for a bit of extra money. Although I hate to admit it, I had no interest or ever considered becoming a hairdresser before this! Over the course of two years, I fell in love with the environment and realised it was where I wanted to be. WHAT ARE YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? My first London Fashion Week in 2018. After the show finished the adrenaline rush was amazing! And back in May I created my first photoshoot. It went better than I could ever have imagined!

LAUREN GRACE ORAM SALON: MATTHEW CURTIS HAIR INSTAGRAM: @LAURENGRACEHAIR

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO BE IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I’d like to be looking at opening my own salon. I have always loved the idea of owning my own business, to be able to create a physical space that represents myself and my career. I hope that in 10 years I’m an experienced stylist who has worked hard, achieved my goals and taken every opportunity to experience new ventures. WHAT’S YOUR DREAM GIG? It has always been a dream of mine to travel and work abroad. To be able to do hair while doing this would be a dream come true. If I’m lucky enough to get the opportunity I’d absolutely love to work on fashion weeks around the world. Growing up in the countryside, I still get a buzz when I go to London, so to be able to do more work there would also be amazing.

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17/09/2021 11:15

CREATE YOUR WAY

WITH A BOLD NEW LOOK AND BRAND IDENTITY, ICONIC BARBERING BRAND ANDIS IS PLACING THE SPOTLIGHT ON THE CREATIVES its rebrand to empower and instil confidence to its users, entirely reimagining the brand experience with confidence-boosting education and a community-first approach. Create your way with Andis beside you on every step of your journey as an artist and creator. When you have confidence in your tools, and their superior capabilities, it pushes you to achieve new heights of greatness. This is the dream – both brand and artist are in sync and rise together.

Matt K. Andis

FOR YEARS THE focus has been on the quality of the tools in your hands, as if they alone can give you that Midas touch to impress your clients. And while high-quality tools oﬀer a noticeable diﬀerence in terms of what you’re able to achieve, at the end of the day it’s the hairstylist and barber who have the power to create. As one of the world’s leading manufacturers of clippers, trimmers and handheld tools, Andis has shifted its focus to the creators with

“The elevated brand experience and striking new look shows Andis is focusing on what matters most: the community of creators” MATT K. ANDIS, CO-CEO

Andis has a fresh new look including a new logo, new website, a manifesto video and new imagery that captures the new vision. Customers can now purchase Andis tools with greater ease due to a streamlined online shopping experience, while also being inspired by the Barber & Stylist Spotlight section of its website.

“Our new brand identity celebrates a new generation of creators,” explains Angie Vlasaty Peterson, Andis director of branding. A fourth-generation, family-led business, Andis is taking bold new steps while remaining true to its core ideals. No matter what you’re looking to achieve, anything is possible with Andis.

CREATE YOUR WAY WITH ANDIS. FOR MORE INFORMATION AND NEWS FROM THE BRAND, VISIT ANDIS.COM. @andiscouk #CREATEYOURWAY #Andis CREATIVE HEAD

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17/09/2021 11:17

#CHedit

Inside story SAMANTHA CUSICK LONDON FITZROVIA

When Samantha Cusick first opened her Notting Hill site, it caused something of a social media storm. You couldn’t scroll for a day without seeing the palm fronds, the pink flamingos and the mouth-watering cocktails on the most influential feeds. Well, proving that you can’t have too much of a good thing, she’s opened up a second location in London’s Fitzrovia, and it’s a doozy. Designed by Sam herself and fitted by James Allen Interiors, clients can take a front row seat at the new colour bar to immerse themselves in the mixing process of their new bespoke colour. Want to sip a Mermaid Martini or glitter coffee while you do so? No problem, just keep an eye out for Sidney the bulldog, he might want a tickle behind the ear. The interiors are as Pinterestworthy as ever, with a mid-century Hollywood regency vibe, Carrara marble, palm murals, the occasional neon-lit expletive, and lashings of luxurious gilt. A Manchester location is on the cards; we can’t wait to see the concept…

HOT BUY

now open

COOL SPOT

Inviting for the client and ergonomically spot-on for the stylist, the new Coff styling chair by Takara Belmont has a slimmer backrest, which makes cutting longer hair a breeze. Choose from three different bases. FROM £1,200 + VAT 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

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GINA CONWAY AVEDA LIFESTYLE SALON AND SPA, POOLE Robin James Hague on the Poole quayside has joined friend and fellow Aveda ambassador Gina Conway’s ethical salon supergroup.

CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2021 15:24

MORB Combines classic design and sofa-style luxury with first-class functionality

www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

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04/08/2021 15:47

THE BUSINESS EDIT

SHOULD ALL SALONS GO CASHLESS? CASH WAS KING, once upon a time. But according to a recent report by Vouchercodes.co.uk and the Centre for Retail Research (CRR), contactless spending is forecast to become Britain’s most popular medium for payment by the end of 2022 – accounting for 47 per cent of all UK retail purchases. Unsurprisingly, contactless payments are up by nearly a third (30 per cent) since the start of the pandemic, when chip and pin payments were still the most popular way to pay. Between 2021 and 2022, cash payments will account for only about 11 per cent of all purchases. Forecasts show almost three-quarters (72 per cent) of payments will be made by card within the next year. With the contactless limit rising yet again to £100 on 15 October, clients are finding it ever easier to just touch and go. But what does this mean for salons, barber shops and their staff? Brian ‘Leo’ McCallum, owner of ROAR Hair and Beauty, has definitely noticed a loss in tips for the team. “The vast majority of clients don’t carry cash anymore. We recently held an urgent team meeting to reassure them that this was in no way a reflection of their skill or service. If clients do carry cash,

they can be very reluctant to hand over for fear of passing on Covid.” On the flip side, he believes no cash on the premises could be a positive for insurance purposes, and could put off thieves from both outside and inside the salon. At Lox of Love, cash sales for the past 12 months represent about 11 per cent of total sales. “We use deposit requests for online bookings to reduce no-shows, and we attract more clients because they have the option of using finance options, including Payl8r and PayPal or their own credit cards,” says founder Victoria Cartwright. She argues that clients leave bigger tips if they’re tipping on a card and it means fewer incidents of counterfeit cash being used. However, there are drawbacks. “There are fewer tips because our stylists tend to press ‘No’ on the tip question on the card machine, or the client has paid in full online and so doesn’t pay anything at the till to leave a tip,” she says, adding there are increased fees from cashless payments. Linton & Mac’s Jen Linton found the same, but got hunting. “Being cashless can mean more costs involved but we have now found a new supplier giving us a low rate per transaction – we just needed to search the market.”

ANDREW CANNON RUFFIANS

I had wanted to go cashless for ages but the team were concerned because they thought they would lose tips. However, during the Covid-19 pandemic I decided to make the migration. We worked with our software provider, Zenoti, to migrate to its Zenoti Payments system which is directly linked to our EPOS and booking system. It is so much better now, we have no problems of cash going missing and the end of day reconciliation is a doddle. And tips have gone up! I asked Zenoti to add an auto prompt on the card machine, just as you would see in restaurants where you ask ‘yes’ or ‘no’ to tipping, and the client can add the amount they like. The team is delighted with this increase, so for me it’s a win-win. Dependent on the barber, we’re talking a 20 per cent rise on average, and that’s after the tax man has taken his cut, so really pretty decent!

LIFE LESSONS

JO JOHNSON

JO JOHNSON SALON Having passion for the industry is key. One of my favourite quotations is from Aniekee Tochukwu Ezekiel: “When passion meets work, work becomes a hobby.” Solid education and training in your field is crucial for a stable foundation, and longevity in this industry. The most magical thing about the hair and beauty world is that it’s always changing, and staying relevant yet true to yourself is important. Having the skills to do so will solidify that. Be patient. Nothing comes without hard work and patience. Take the time to truly understand what you want to achieve. A tool to success is using the lessons you have learnt along the way and putting your own spin on them to push your growth. Your reputation precedes you. Along your journey you will meet people from all walks of life, and they will remember a first impression of you, so make it count. Sometimes these interactions will come back around and could be beneficial or detrimental to your business.

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17/09/2021 11:32

#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

Reader Panel methodology: Survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel

AHEAD OF EVERY issue of Creative HEAD, we reach out to our Reader Panel to ask them about their businesses, to get a sense of how salons across the UK are doing. When choosing any item or service to spend money on, we’re all increasingly influenced by online ratings. From TripAdvisor to Airbnb, as consumers we scour the reviews to get a fuller picture of a potential purchase, looking for what others before us have experienced. Naturally, as a service provider, salons are increasingly understanding just how vital consumer reviews can be for a business, and are looking for methods to ensure a wider audience sees them too.

HOW DO YOU COMPARE?

PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES

How was business in August compared with July? SAME 14%

UP 29%

DOWN 57%

How was business in August compared with August 2020?

6.7%

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN AUGUST (EXC. VAT)

DOWN 56%

UP 44%

£52.83

THE MISSION: GETTING THOSE FIVE STARS Google reviews were

the most focused upon by salons, followed by

Facebook

28% of salons

incentivise clients to leave a review

14%

of salons ask staﬀ to request a client leaves a review online

“Online reviews are very eﬀective, we are the most reviewed salon in our area and most new clients say they checked out the reviews before booking.” EMMA SIMMONS, SALON 54

CREATIVE HEAD

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DID YOU KNOW 85 PER CENT OF CONSUMERS TRUST ONLINE REVIEWS AS MUCH AS PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS? Any time a consumer has to make a decision to book an appointment in a salon they go through a decision-making process and will often seek out online reviews before making the choice to book in. That means that leveraging online reviews is really powerful in attracting new clients to your business. If someone searches for your salon online and sees that other people love it, they begin to trust your brand, have confidence that you’ll do a good job and believe in what you say as other people are saying it too! Even better, if you have won awards or are promoted by big names in the industry, this instils even more trust in your salon. So how can salons manage online reviews and make sure they’re glowing, wherever consumers look? With Phorest’s Online Reputation feature, you can automatically send out review requests (via SMS or email) and your clients can review you. From Phorest, you can post any five-star reviews to Google, Facebook and Yelp. And you can access any bad reviews and gain valuable feedback for your business. No other salon software can be automated to help you get more five-star reviews on Google, Facebook and Yelp, generating referrals for you while you sleep! Another bonus of the Online Reputation tool is that if you get 60+ five-star reviews within a year within Phorest, you’ll win a Client Experience Award, which you can share on your social media, website and in your salon window, boosting your reputation further. The 2021 awards have just been given, so start using Phorest’s Online Reputation tool today to be in it to win it in 2022! Kathleen Osborne is regional marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software UK & Ireland. Find out more at phorest.com @phorestsalonsoftware @phorest.ukie

17/09/2021 11:33

#BusinessEdit

CONTACTLESS CARD LIMIT TO GO UP TO £100 IN OCTOBER FOLLOWING A public consultation with both the retail and banking sectors, the limit for contactless transactions will rise to £100 from its current level of £45 on 15 October. UK Finance says that the new limit will take time to be rolled out to all retailers, as terminals will need to be updated. Increasing the contactless card is welcome news for salons and barber shops. Not only does it mean clients can conveniently pay for high price treatments, contactless payment also help most clients feel more comfortable and safe.

Rosina Robson joins NHBF senior team ROSINA ROBSON IS the new director of policy & public affairs at the NHBF. She has a wealth of experience promoting and representing small and creative businesses, having previously worked for the Federation of Small Businesses (FSB) and the Producers Alliance for Cinema and TV (PACT). Rosina is responsible for presenting members’ views on wages, standards and taxes to politicians, to make members’ voices heard in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Upon joining NHBF, Rosina Robson said: “I am delighted to join the NHBF team and build on my track record of delivering successful public affairs campaigns to support the industry through recovery and beyond.”

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NEW PROTECTION FOR BUSINESSES FROM EVICTION GOVERNMENTS ACROSS THE UK have introduced new legislation to help businesses affected by Covid-19 avoid eviction from their premises. Businesses in Wales affected by the pandemic are now protected from eviction until 25 March 2022, a measure initially due to end on 30 September 2021. This will ensure that landlords of relevant commercial premises cannot forfeit the leases of such premises for non-payment of rent. In England, the eviction ban also ends on 25 March 2022, whereas in Scotland there is no longer a ban on evictions. However, there are some changes to the eviction process still in place until 31 March 2022. These include notices of eviction having more extended notice periods. Depending on the grounds this can be up to six months, and most eviction grounds are discretionary. In Northern Ireland, commercial tenants who cannot pay their rent because of Covid-19 will no longer be protected from eviction from October.

National Insurance set to rise NATIONAL INSURANCE CONTRIBUTIONS for employees and employers will rise by 1.25 per cent each, as part of a new annual £12bn healthcare levy announced by the government. All working adults, including those over the state pension age, will pay the levy and the rates of dividend tax will also increase by 1.25 per cent to help fund this package. Those who earn more pay more, with the highest earning 14 per cent of people paying around half the revenues. From 2023, the additional payment will become a separate tax on earned income called the Health and Social Care Levy, which will be calculated in the same way as National Insurance and detailed on payslips.

CREATIVE HEAD

17/09/2021 11:34

WHAT A

RELIEF!

AFTER 30 YEARS IN HIS FAMILY-RUN SALON, AHMET UZUN WAS CONVINCED THE BUSINESS NEEDED TO FOCUS MORE ON THE FUTURE. TREATWELL WAS THERE TO ANSWER HIS PRAYERS! LIKE LOTS OF salons around the UK, Park Hair & Beauty is a family-run business, where Ahmet Uzun has been based for three decades. Understandably, there came a time where he wanted to inject new energy into the business… “I wanted to go in a different direction, do something bold,” he explains. “Treatwell felt right because it was more futuristic.” What has that meant for the salon in Battersea? “We’ve improved about 20 per cent in terms of new and rebooked clients. These are not just discount chasers,” grins Ahmet, who says more than two-thirds of clients now book online. “Whenever a client comes in, we’ve got a QR code they can scan and hit the rebooking tab – boom! That’s how easy it is.” Making life that bit easier was welcome when lockdown hit. “Treatwell sent an email to everyone explaining that their appointments were cancelled. That really helped me,” recalls Ahmet. “Treatwell also contacted everybody about when we’d be open again. When that date was announced, our booking system went crazy. Ding, ding, ding, all the way through!” One scourge of salons right now is the dreaded ‘no-show’, but with Treatwell Connect, Ahmet rarely has to worry. “Before, it was clients coming in a day late, an hour early, then blaming us for the mistake. That got awkward, you could lose clients that way,” he says, “but going digital completely eradicated that. Treatwell reminds them that the appointment is today!” Alongside 24-hour booking, number one for Park Hair & Beauty is the reviews. “The staff love them, even the bad ones!” laughs Ahmet. “It knocks them into shape. Staff are energetic about having new bookings and seeing their reviews on their phones. It keeps your standards

high, and when you’re getting ﬁve stars all the time you know you’re the best.” For quieter times, with Treatwell Connect there are built-in discounting tools. “We just put a little promotion in here, a discount there, and it soon gets our email dinging!” Sounds great, right? But any established business is always put oﬀ change by the idea of disruption and expense. Just how painful was the switch? “When changing on to anything new, you’re always a little nervous. Is this going to cause more work? But once we got the knowledge of how the system worked, it was plain sailing,” reassures Ahmet. “It was quick to implement; literally three or four days. And if there is a problem, Treatwell is there, ready to help. “I understand everybody’s worried about expense,” he continues, “but once I see how many new clients Treatwell brings in, and how many rebook too rather than chasing deals, that’s when it puts a smile on my face. With Covid-19 we lost business; but if it wasn’t for Treatwell we’d have lost a lot more.” Ahmet is much more relaxed with Treatwell behind him. “It’s a transparent and easy system. If you can use a smartphone, you can use Treatwell Connect!”

BE PART OF THE GREAT SALON SWITCH UP, BECAUSE #THEFUTUREOFHAIRISDIGITAL. DISCOVER HOW TREATWELL CONNECT CAN HELP TO LEVEL UP YOUR BUSINESS, NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE ON YOUR JOURNEY. VISIT TREATWELL.CO.UK/PARTNERS/SIGN-UP FOR A FREE CONSULTATION CREATIVE HEAD

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17/09/2021 11:35

VIRTUAL

#LCT21

PERFECTION PRECISION PLACEMENT MARRIED WITH A UNIQUE EYE AND AN INNATE UNDERSTANDING OF FUTURE TRENDS: THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY IS THE ULTIMATE CELEBRATION OF COLOUR MASTERY AND CREATIVITY, BOTH IN ITS LINE-UP OF UK AND IRELAND FINALISTS AND IN SHOW PRESENTATIONS FROM SOME OF THE BIGGEST TEAM NAMES. THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY GRAND FINAL RETURNED WITH AN EXPERIENCE UNLIKE ANY OTHER, A FITTING WAY TO CELEBRATE ITS 65TH ANNIVERSARY. GET READY FOR SENSORY OVERLOAD WITH THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY GRAND FINAL VIRTUAL EDITION: YOUR LIFE IN COLOUR

MAGICAL REALISM BY SUGAR CULTURE

This ﬁlm was akin to opening up a trapdoor and descending into a fantasy boudoir of electric colours alongside softer pretty pastels, all courtesy of the team from Dublin’s legendary Sugar Culture group. We watched as one by one, doll-like models were brought to life, a candy confection of bright tones and big texture. Fluoro wigs? Check. Giant ﬂowers? Check. An electric fever dream that we don’t want to wake up from? CHECK!

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21/09/2021 09:58

BORDERLESS BY BROOKS & BROOKS

This show brought together a mesmerising mix of swirling visuals and hypnotic audio designed very specifically for the audience watching on a screen. “Freeze… Open your mind… Error message… Close your ears and let yourself feel.” The Brooks & Brooks Art Team served up graphic panels of monotone shades alongside soft, fluffy finishes meshed with exaggerated wardrobe shapes, wind-ruffling textures in hair and clothing as you immersed yourself in the ambience. It was an audio/visual fusion that offered a warping of the mind, but in a fantastic way. Simply out of this world.

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21/09/2021 09:59

VIRTUAL TRANSITION BY RUSH

This was born trippy. On set, the team from Rush embraced the virtual environment in which the audience would enjoy their work with gusto. The ‘viewer’ selected different worlds from the Rush mainframe hub and lived them out in virtual reality, with scenarios taking us underwater, into the desert and even into The Matrix. Pairs of models strutted the catwalk, blurring videos with reality. Hair varied from long cascading mermaid waves to psychedelic rainbow flashes, burnt tones, and geometric finishes with iridescence and intricate light-up knots.

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21/09/2021 09:59

VANTAGE BY TONI&GUY This was a study of contrasts and luxury, with a focus on high-shine finishes and a high-fashion feel. At times the hair appeared sharp and dynamic, other times with a rippling feel of silk. The looks walked a line of light and shadow, from tight, bright curls in shades of expensive pale pink to metallic finishes and extreme blow-outs. The dramatic lighting show and crystallised face veils pushed this vision of luxury, blending the ethereal with arthouse.

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21/09/2021 10:00

THE LOOKS

OF LOVE

COLOUR THAT MAKES JUDGES GASP AND CONSUMERS RUSH TO BOOK, A SHOWCASE OF SKILLS THAT CEMENTS THE REPUTATIONS OF SALONS ACROSS THE LAND – THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY HAS BEEN BRINGING THIS AND MORE TO THE INDUSTRY FOR 65 YEARS. FINALISTS MIGHT NOT HAVE BEEN THERE IN PERSON, BUT THEIR STUNNING WORK STILL LIT UP THE NIGHT. MEET THE WINNERS OF THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY GRAND FINAL VIRTUAL EDITION: YOUR LIFE IN COLOUR

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD OVERALL WINNER AND NORTHERN IRISH REGION WINNER LORRAINE HUME HAIRDRESSING, RANDALSTOWN

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21/09/2021 10:01

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD SECOND PLACE AND SOUTHERN REGION WINNER

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD THIRD PLACE AND LONDON REGION WINNER

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AFRO AWARD WINNER

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD WINNER

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD RUNNER UP

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD JUDGES’ FAVOURITE

DORATA HAIRDRESSING, MARLOW

FRANCESCO GROUP, CONGLETON

SCOTTISH REGION WINNER

CHARLIE MILLER HAIRDRESSING, EDINBURGH

SKYLER LONDON

THE SECRET GARDEN, LEICESTER

NORTH EASTERN REGION WINNER

CUTTING ROOM CREATIVE, LEEDS

NORTH WESTERN REGION WINNER

ROYSTON BLYTHE, SHREWSBURY

TONI&GUY, NEWBURY

DESTINY LINWOOD, BLOGGS SALONS

WESTERN REGION WINNER

KAROLIINA SAUNDERS HAIR DESIGN, HIGHWORTH

EASTERN REGION WINNER

SPENCER SILVER, LEIGH ON SEA

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21/09/2021 10:02

AS SEEN

ON SCREEN

A SLICK MIX OF INTERACTIVITY AND LIVESTREAM GOODNESS, THE L’ORÉAL FAMILY CREATED A MULTIMEDIA MASTERPIECE FOR THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY GRAND FINAL VIRTUAL EDITION: YOUR LIFE IN COLOUR

THE HOST!

Resplendent in a sunshine-hued, ruffled candy floss mini dress (and not at all looking like “a chick from an egg” as she joked), DJ and TV presenter Vick Hope was our MC for the evening’s proceedings, smoothly taking the audience from set to show to Zoom rooms filled with eager finalists and the occasional over-excited winner. She nailed it!

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21/09/2021 10:02

THE VIRTUAL EXPERIENCE! At home, finalists and the wider global audience had a smorgasbord of interactivity at their fingertips. Yes, there was the livestream, but you could also visit the Heritage room to watch footage from past decades of L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Finals and see the legacy of the competition. The Gallery room shared the hard work of all the finalists, so you could peruse the looks while also listening to a Spotify playlist curated for viewers. The Virtual Photo Booth for selfies and the Social Wall kept everyone having fun and enjoying all the happenings from across the nations.

THE JUDGES!

It’s a fact well established that the L’Oréal Colour Trophy judges have a tough job – there’s so much good work submitted! – but many of them were rewarded with the chance to reveal the winners on set. Pictured above from left: Ken Picton, Robert Eaton, Darren Fowler, Abigail Butler, Adam Reed, Siobhan Jones, Desmond Murray, and Nathan Walker, were vital, sharing the names of champions with Béatrice Dautzenberg, head of L’Oréal Professional UK, and Tom Rolt, the new UK & Ireland general manager for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. When not on duty, they were overlooking the spectacular set at an intimate live watch party at the venue, Battersea Evolution, with everyone seeing all the action on stage below and on live screens. Fellow judges watching the action from home included: Karen Dodds, Errol Douglas MBE, Alan Edwards, Charlotte Mensah, Jason Miller, Marcello Moccia, Richard Phillipart, Richard Ward, and Charles Worthington MBE, while judge Chris Williams was on set as part of the Rush show team.

THE NIGHT A EN EV INCLUDED PAUL OM FR VIDEO MESSAGE ED THE AT BR LE CE SCULLY MP, WHO , ITS PA ONOMIC IM CT INDUSTRY’S EC ALE M FE R FO PUTATION INCUBATOR RE G SHIP AND YOUN ENTREPRENEUR CT PA IM E POSITIVE TALENT, AND TH NS LO SA H ALTH, WIT ON MENTAL HE ESSERS HAVING DR IR HA AND LE ROLE IN “AN INVALUAB Y”. M M THE CO UNIT

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21/09/2021 15:25

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17/09/2021 11:36

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

STRENGTH IN NUMBERS *L’Oréal Consumer Market Inisghts: Salon Tracker W2 April 2020, UK Women aged 16 to 75 (N=1017)

KNOWING YOUR BRAND PARTNER HAS GOT YOUR BACK MEANS EVERYTHING WHEN THE WORLD IS IN FLUX. HERE'S HOW KÉRASTASE IS HELPING ITS SALON PARTNERS BOOST THEIR BUSINESSES IT’S BEEN AN incredibly challenging two years, with issues that no salon owner has ever had to face before. Salons shut and staff on furlough, enormous client rushes then lulls… and salon owners have been searching for answers and support to encourage women back to salon and boost their business once again. That’s where Kérastase steps in, with MySalon. A drive-to-salon promotion supporting its network of salons to not just find their feet again but to thrive with new business, the brand unveiled a huge awareness campaign to shine a spotlight on industry pros, the salon experience and their exclusive in-salon treatment Fusio-Dose, all of which are at the core of the brand’s DNA. And it was major – reaching more than 46.2 million people with influencer activity, search ads and targeted CRM all linked to a compelling promotion to encourage women into salon. It attracted new clients and maximised the treatment opportunity by offering a complimentary Fusio-Dose treatment and at least £10-off a salon service. And the promotion seamlessly linked to the Kérastase salon locator so it couldn’t be easier for women to book their appointment at participating salons. Across August and September, Kérastase helped fund the free Fusio-Dose treatment via promotion on Fusio-Dose purchases. Why Fusio-Dose? Because a key way that salons can boost their business is by maximising treatments, the driving idea behind the campaign. Nearly half (48 per cent) of women have had an in-salon treatment in the past 12 months* – so there’s a huge opportunity to recruit the 52 per cent of women who haven’t tried one yet! And once they’re in the salon and experiencing a treatment, it’s your opportunity to make them loyal returners, and treatments a consistent choice. Only one in 10 women had an in-salon treatment during their last salon visit,* illustrating that although women may have tried a treatment, they’re not choosing one on every salon visit. Until the end of the month, salons across the UK and Ireland are welcoming new clients in with their MySalon voucher for this exclusive in-salon service, which boosts basket spend but adds no time to the client’s appointment – a win-win. Following an expert hair and scalp diagnosis, clients have their personalised Fusio-Dose mix blended by their hairdresser, choosing from 42 potential combinations. Powered by skincare ingredients and targeting two hair concerns at once, Fusio-Dose is applied at the backwash instead of a conditioner and has instant results – leaving women with the instant need to book their next salon visit.

“THE MYSALON CAMPAIGN GAVE FOWLER35 AN INCREDIBLE PLATFORM TO RECRUIT NEW CLIENTS ON A HUGE SCALE. ONCE IN-SALON, WE’RE ABLE TO WOW THESE WOMEN WITH OUR PROFESSIONAL EXPERTISE AND SERVICE, CONVERTING THEM INTO LOYAL CUSTOMERS WHO RE-BOOK WITH US – WITHOUT A DISCOUNT!” DARREN FOWLER, FOLWER35

DISCOVER MORE

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE MYSALON CAMPAIGN AND HOW YOUR SALON CAN TAKE PART IN THE NEXT PROMOTION, SCAN THE QR CODE TO REGISTER YOUR DETAILS

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21/09/2021 15:26

GET A GLIMPSE AT WHERE THE FUTURE OF COLOUR LIES WITH COLOR WEAR, THE NATURAL EVOLUTION OF GLOSS TONER FROM ALFAPARF MILANO

REVOLUTION BECOMES EVOLUTION

GLASS-LIKE SHINE, intermixable shades, unique liquid textures… we have so much choice now when it comes to colour to work with. But innovation never stops, which is where Color Wear, The Natural Evolution of Gloss Toner by ALFAPARF Milano comes in. The latest addition to the Color Wear line of tone-on-tone formulas from ALFAPARF Milano, these arginine-based liquid toners have been developed speciﬁcally to celebrate and elevate blonde tones using an innovative formula with cutting-edge care technology.

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17/09/2021 11:37

Bespoke blondes are the future of colour services – no-one wants to walk out of the salon with a basic beige tone. Color Wear Gloss Toners are a simple way to introduce unique tonal blends with ease, complementing other ALFAPARF Milano colour ranges brilliantly for a breath-taking blend that’s ideal for post-lightening services. The Color Wear Gloss Toners are also perfect pick-me-ups for dull and lacklustre blondes in need of a new lease of life. The formula features patented technology which utilises arginine, a natural amino acid that is already present in the protein structure of hair, combined with an active ingredient derived from apple vinegar. The combination of these two powerhouse natural ingredients is a plethora of restructuring properties, helping to repair and restructure the hair ﬁbre after chemical processes or thermal stress.

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ON THE HORIZON

It also helps to reduce the pH, and closes the hair cuticle in order to increase shine, while the Color Wear conditioning complex helps to leave hair soft, smooth and moisturised. Color Wear Gloss Toners are the ticket to shinier, healthier-looking blondes, illuminating natural colour and enriching highlights, without altering the base tone. Deliver high-performance results that are gentle on hair. You can enhance and perfect lightening results, no matter the blonde service clients desire, for multi-dimensional results with incredible shine, condition and variety of shades. There are 22 curated shades developed to meet the needs of any blonding experience, so clients can eﬀortlessly enjoy a bespoke blonde tone made especially for them. The vegan formula – also free of ammonia, MEA, silicones and resorcinol – contains just the essential and eﬀective ingredients for Color Wear Gloss Toners to obtain maximum performance and covetable results.

SEE ME SHINE

• DYNAMIC SHINE: A SHINE INCREASE OF UP TO 103 PER CENT, MEASURED ON MOVING HAIR • INCREASED ELASTICITY: HAIR IS UP TO 13 PER CENT MORE ELASTIC AFTER JUST ONE APPLICATION • MAXIMUM MANAGEABILITY: HAIR IS UP TO THREE-TIMES EASIER TO BRUSH AFTER JUST ONE APPLICATION • COLOUR FADE PROTECTION: COLOUR IS MAINTAINED UP TO 90 PER CENT AFTER 12 WASHES

IF GOING LIGHTER IS YOUR CLIENT’S GREATEST DESIRE, LET THEM EXPERIENCE THE FUTURE OF BLONDE. FOR MORE INFORMATION, OR IF YOU’RE INTERESTED IN BECOMING AN ALFAPARF MILANO SALON, VISIT ALFAPARFMILANO.COM @ALFAPARFMILANOUKI CREATIVE HEAD

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17/09/2021 11:37

ON THE FLOOR

The UK salon will never be the same again. As we emerged from lockdown, a major new study by Creative HEAD discovered an industry coming to terms with profound change at almost every level. What used to be the norm is no longer fit for purpose as stylists and owners look for new ways of working. We take a look at what the next steps for UK hairdressing could be

We are at a major crossroads in our industry. The traditional mould of a job in hair as steady work employed in a local salon appears to be broken. Social media has fuelled a rise in stylists able to build ‘brand me’ with greater ease and more than 60 per cent of the UK salon workforce is now self-employed. Accelerated and complicated by Covid-19, the world of salon work has become incredibly complex. So where do we go from here? We sat down with members of the National Hair & Beauty Federation, the Freelance Hairdressers Association, the Hair & Barber Council, Save Our Salons, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, and readers of Creative HEAD, all of whom remained anonymous so they could feel free to speak their minds. Employers, employed stylists and selfemployed stylists discussed the social and economic implications they face as they tackle new ways of working and plan for the future of hairdressing. Here are some of the key findings:

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l The social networks Self-employment is no longer just mobile hairdressing, and brands are wising up l In this together Salon life offers staff and clients so much more than when stylists go it alone l Cashing out Boosting the bottom line is at the heart of many people’s decisions to go solo l Searching for staff Salons are struggling to find the next generation of talented, passionate hairdressers l Apprenticeships aren’t working Owners and stylists alike believe the system no longer functions l Money rules HMRC, compliance and VAT rules combine to make a minefield l Finding the way forward Do new business models offer the solution?

CREATIVE HEAD

17/09/2021 11:39

On The Floor Report

The social networks Emboldened, empowered and – thanks to advances in technology and brands falling over themselves to work with them – newly enabled, the self-employed are riding high. A desire for more freedom, control and money have long been cited as reasons to go self-employed, but a frustration with salon hierarchies is prompting a new generation to cut loose from the salon – and social media has opened the floodgates. “The real turning point came when social media took off,” said one freelancer. “All of a sudden you didn’t need marketing budgets, you didn’t need PR. You could showcase yourself, you no longer needed to be represented by a brand – you could be your own brand, for free.” In fact, social media is so integral now, it was even suggested that anyone interested in growing their followings would need to be self-employed: “Social media has completely changed everything. Nowadays I need to do content days, where I’m solely creating content for my Instagram. When I was employed in a salon, my boss was like, ‘Well, you can’t do that now because I need you to do a client’. So it comes to a point where if you want to grow your social media, which is a lot of people’s focus, you need to be selfemployed to allow yourself time to do that.” A decade has passed since the launch of Instagram, and it’s difficult to over-estimate its importance, but salon employees voiced concern at the way stylists are being rated on the basis of their social followings, rather than their creative skills. “Promoting yourself through social media has become massive in recent years, and Instagram has become so huge and deeply embedded with being a successful hairdresser. And I think it’s really difficult for some stylists who aren’t particularly savvy with Instagram or aren’t as extrovert as other people to build their brand. It’s also quite intimidating and time-consuming to be constantly uploading content and that’s not something confined to older stylists – there are people my age and younger who struggle with it. It’s a lot of pressure.” RESPECTING THE INDIVIDUAL Freelancers feel they have been looked down upon for too long – now they want the respect they deserve. For many years, self-employed hairdressers represented just a tiny fraction of the workforce, mostly carrying out mobile services in clients’ homes. Access to training was limited, leading to question marks over standards. Today, not only has the number of freelancers exploded but also the type of work they carry out and the stigma associated with freelancing has diminished. As a result, the reputation of freelancers is changing and the industry is seeing a new generation of self-employed stylists who are confident, ambitious and in demand. Initiatives such as Creative HEAD’s

CREATIVE HEAD

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channel for independent stylists SELF/STYLED have also helped to elevate the perception of self-employed stylists and shown that they’re not just mobile hairdressers. “It’s changing in a positive direction. The way I’ve set up my education company is that I’m self-employed and my business partner is employed so we both give a different aspect to what we teach and it’s aimed at everyone. And that’s been really helpful when we talk to salon owners, as we can explain the reasons why some people go self-employed, but also we can say it’s not for everyone.” “Education is so accessible now and it’s become so much easier to keep our skills up to date. That has given freelancers more respect and shown that we are actually credible hairdressers who pay taxes and do work well.”

Case study

Ashleigh Hodges SELF-EMPLOYED

“The industry is becoming more accepting of freelancers” “Back in 2018, not long after I’d gone selfemployed, I was told by someone that I was part of the problem with the industry – that I was hindering efforts to make people see hairdressing in a different light. I responded by saying that the problem lay with salons not providing their staff with the right opportunities or a decent work/life balance, and that if people were happy in their jobs they wouldn’t leave. They didn’t have a response to that. “Equally, while I felt fully embraced and supported on set as a self-employed stylist – people would share contacts and let me know about upcoming jobs – there was a tendency to look down on hairdressers from the salon world. It was as if they weren’t good enough. “I do feel attitudes are

changing now. I can be working at a co-working space and say I’m seeing clients in a salon the next day, and no-one will bat an eyelid. This is how it should be – full acceptance for everyone. If you do good hair, you do good hair, regardless of your tax return. “I think it’s the calibre of people who are going selfemployed that’s making the difference – we are good at our jobs, and we are the people that brands and organisations want to work with now. A lot of brands used to turn their noses up at the self-employed and, while I wish some of them would adapt quicker than they are, at least they are trying to cater for us, which is something. Nowadays, you can even be selfemployed and be a brand ambassador – that simply wasn’t possible before.”

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BRANDS WISE UP Product and electrical brands are becoming more in tune with the changing workplace, too. But one of the biggest challenges facing self-employed hairdressers continues to be getting hold of product. Stylists who used to work in salons can struggle to maintain ties with their usual product brands when they go self-employed because they don’t order stock in large quantities. “The product question is a big thing. I approached my usual brand and they weren’t interested in me because my business was too small. You’ve work with and recommend a brand as I’ve done for 20, 30 years and all of a sudden you just can’t get hold of products – it’s difficult. Now I have to tell my clients to go get it from somewhere else, but it would be nice to be able to sell it myself.” “My main challenge is getting hold of products to sell. I’ve got a home studio, which I love, and every single one of my clients buys from me, which is brilliant. But now the brand I’ve been working with has been discontinued and my main concern is finding a replacement that fits with me and that’s not going to cost the earth to get hold of.” Smaller, independent brands seem more open to working with freelancers, but there are signs that even the biggest brands are trying to adapt their business models and become more accessible. “You have to be with a brand that you believe in, can have a relationship with, and that will educate you. I’m with a small independent brand – they are screaming out for people to retail their products – and it’s down to you to decide which one you want to work with and how you want to do it. The technology is there, and the bigger brands can’t ignore us.” “Brands are definitely becoming more open to freelancers. The brand I work with used to make you put in a £20,000 opening order, which is obviously impossible if you’re on your own. There was a group of us and our friend, who had a salon, used to place the order on our behalf and we’d share the cost. Now we’re able to open our own accounts, so things are going in the right direction.”

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In this together Team, opportunities, stability: salon life offers something unique. Stylists employed in salons – both junior and senior – are confident that salon life sets itself apart from freelancing, especially when it comes to being part of a team. “We are a London-based salon and most of us aren’t from London, we don’t have family where we are. Being a strong team, it generates that family.” “I was self-employed once and the thing that was great about freelancing was making a lot of money, but I felt very lonely. I know you’re seeing clients all day long but it’s still a lonesome trail – you’re jumping in your car, you go and see your client, you come out… and then you go and see someone else. And that’s where I missed being part of a team. I wasn’t being inspired by anybody, I was just dealing with mums at home and they’d ask me what was happening in hair at the moment, and I just used to make it up as I hadn’t a clue. Yes, you’ve got magazines and there is so much education online, but it’s not the same as face-to-face. And that’s what our industry is all about – face-to-face interactions. It’s what we do with our clients and it’s what we need to do together, that’s the key.” “You get to keep your ear to the ground and stay on top of what clients want – what is wearable fashion. Sometimes, when you do session work you operate in a fashion bubble. I’ve done a lot of consultancy work for brands because I know what people are asking for and what ‘real’ people think about certain things, and that’s really valuable.” “I’ve seen a lot of people make that transition out of salon life, and they say to me, ‘How do you manage to work at that pace? I hate the idea of rushing someone or having a time limit put on me.’ And of course, if you can fill your calendar with freelance work and earn more money, you’re going to be fulfilled. But freelancing can be lonely and you end up missing salon life. I know a lot of experienced freelance stylists who are successful but still want to go back and work in a salon a couple of days a week.” “I worked for six years self-employed prior to being employed last year. Where I come from, there’s not a huge amount of salons that employ so there’s a big emphasis on being selfemployed, and I felt pushed into it once I’d qualified. Now I’ve got access to working in artistic teams, with brands, and we have a really good salon family and support network within the salon. Everyone is willing to muck in and offer advice and no one’s shy about that – it’s really cool.”

CREATIVE HEAD

17/09/2021 11:39

On The Floor Report

Case study

Rianna Henry SELF-EMPLOYED

“In a salon there’s always someone to talk to” “When I went selfemployed at 19, I barely knew anyone doing the same, so there was nobody to ask about how things worked. I didn’t know anything about paying tax or getting insurance and I didn’t even have an appointment schedule. Now there’s a whole network of us and technology has moved on so much. I have a booking system that allows clients to book packages, it tells me how much I’ve earned and even calculates the amount of time I need to travel between appointments. So it’s a lot easier now. “I do miss certain aspects of salon life, though – when you go freelance you’re suddenly totally out of the loop about new products and events, for example, and although us freelancers do chat to one another, we rarely actually see one another and it’s hit or miss whether you find out about these things

or not. In a salon there’s always someone showing you something or telling you about something, and there’s always someone to talk to if you have any questions. “Before lockdown I was working seven days a week and clients felt they could contact me at all hours of the day or night as you’re no longer bound by salon hours. People messaged me all the time – even at 5am – and expected to get hold of me. Lockdown taught me so much about the importance of having boundaries and to prioritise my mental health, so I’m more disciplined now about taking time off and I’ve put out a message to my clients about respecting my working hours. I used to worry about saying ‘no’, in case I lost a client. Now I know it’s more important that I’m healthy and enjoying myself, otherwise what would be the point?”

OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS The rise in creative opportunities outside of the salon – for example, assisting at Fashion Week or working as an educator – are increasingly cited as factors for going self-employed. “Going self-employed was the idea of having more control over my career and being able to do more of the things I wanted to do. When I was employed, there was so much of a focus on doing clients that I wasn’t able to work on the projects I wanted to. Obviously, freelancing’s not for everyone but the way people are treated in salons – it drives people into it. In a salon, the person at the top will always kind of keep you where they need you to be.”

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“Back in the day, 10, 15 years ago, you had to be with a salon in order to do competitions, to get opportunities. I used to grin and bear it. But then Instagram came in and my following was about 25,000, so brands started wanting to work with me, but I had to turn them down because they weren’t the brands that were used in the salon. So, I was like, ‘Either I take my own career, take my social media and the money that I know I can get, and do what I want to do, work with the brands that I want to; or I can stay here and grow someone else’s business for them.’” “When it came to me wanting to do other stuff, it wasn’t allowed; I just had to do as I was told and I felt used. I absolutely hated it. It felt like my only option was to go selfemployed because I love what I do and I love the industry. But I want to enjoy work, I want to have that freedom to know that I have flexibility and can work whatever hours I want, and now I have such a better work/life balance.” Many salon owners were adamant that having a clear employment structure in place offered a significant advantage over self-employment, even in terms of opportunity. “What we offer is a clear career path that’s built on growth. People need to see that journey, those opportunities, and to see all the different elements that are open to them. I’ve created new roles here and what I’m doing is empowering those individuals. And they wouldn’t necessarily have those opportunities if they were to go selfemployed, or acquire skills around managing people or organising rotas, and so on.” “The reason people come to us is because we can offer a long-term career plan, supported by education that’s personalised to them. We have it all mapped out, as a graphic, and it’s been a revelation. We’ve had stylists who’ve been with us for 20 years or more and even they are saying, ‘There are still things I want to achieve in this company and I’m excited to see where I could go next.’” THE CLIENT ENVIRONMENT Employers recognise that what’s increasingly vital to success is the service they offer to clients in their salon. Indulgent, sensorial experiences that pamper and treat individuals and offer a completely different environment to enjoy are seen as a powerful inducement to prevent clients from getting their hair done in a self-employed salon or in their own home. “Self-employed stylists are going to be doing haircuts in an environment that’s sub-par to the one we offer. And I think clients are going to notice it and they’re going to realise they’re not getting the treatment, the experience and the energy they want. And now that people want to spend their money more wisely, they’re going to spend it with us.” “I offer a service in my salon that freelancers simply cannot match. We’ve found that clients who’ve drifted away with a stylist who’s gone self-employed have come back because they’ve missed the salon experience. So I’m actively promoting this in my marketing – the fact that we have something that a self-employed hairdresser cannot offer.”

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Cashing out Money remains a key driver into self-employment: stylists are acutely aware of how much business they’re bringing into the salon and calculate they can earn more working for themselves than by being employed. But it pains salon owners when they leave. “I was sick of making money for other people. For 15 years I’d been working for big salon brands and when I looked at what I was earning versus what I was earning for them, I thought ‘I don’t really need to be doing this anymore’. I’ve been self-employed now for about 18 months and I could never afford to go employed again. When I look back, I wish I went self-employed five years ago because it’s completely in your control what you charge. I will work seven days a week if I want, or I might work one day a week if I want.” Stylists using their free time to explore independent projects often have their eyes opened to the financial disadvantages of being employed: “Why would I work five days a week in a salon if I’m earning more doing two days of education? There are so many more opportunities for us all now to make more money and not have to work like a nutter.” But some employed stylists had experienced being pushed into self-employment by previous employers. “About five or six years ago I worked in a salon and was made to go selfemployed. We turned up to work one morning and were told, ‘You’re going self-employed from Saturday.’ It was horrendous. And we ended up working all the hours God sends because we had to work all the hours the owner told us to and she was taking 60 per cent of everything. We had to ask permission to have a holiday. It was only when I moved to my current salon that the owner explained that what my previous boss was doing was all wrong.” Despite a general acceptance that self-employment is ‘here to stay’, it still clearly upsets a salon owner when a successful team member leaves to go out on their own. “We invest, we develop and we reach a ceiling where the team’s earnings can’t go much higher, and the next step is that they go self-employed, setting themselves up just down the road with the £80,000-worth of clients that they’ve stolen from my business.” When stylists do leave, employers are finding contracts are unenforceable: “A stylist left who I’d trained all the way through; she stayed with me for four years and then left and opened up down the road. I did try to take it to court but the solicitors told me it just wouldn’t be worth it.” Some employers are looking at other ways to keep staff loyal: “Years ago there were radius clauses that you took seriously, and which could get you into trouble. Now people point to social media and say they generated their own contacts. But salons are becoming more savvy – we have in our contracts now that if a stylists leaves within a certain period, they have to pay back the cost of their training.”

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Case study

James Earnshaw SELF-EMPLOYED

“Going freelance was a financial no-brainer” “I’ve got to be honest, I do clients solely for money – it’s shoots and shows that get me excited. A few years ago, I was employed as creative director of a large hairdressing group and I was generating around £8k or £9k a month in clients – sometimes as much as £1k in a single day – but I was being paid only a fraction of that. Despite this, when I wanted to enter a major hairdressing competition and asked for help with funding my portfolio, I was told I had to pay for it myself. The mentality was always, ‘You have to do this client’, or ‘You have to stay late to do this client’. The trouble was, I didn’t make any more money whether I did one client or 50 clients – there was no incentive to work harder. “Eventually, I did a calculation of the number of clients I saw in the course of a year and worked out that I could be earning £4k a month if I did them myself as a selfemployed hairdresser. It was a no-brainer. “Being employed is okay when you’re 18 or 19, but

when you’re 28 and want to buy a house, you can’t get a mortgage if you’re being paid Minimum Wage plus commission. I now have a mortgage based on just one year of tax returns – the banks are happier to deal with self-employed people nowadays as there are so many of us! “Part of the problem is that hairdressers don’t charge enough for their services. People pay hundreds of pounds for lip fillers, which can take a few minutes; whereas we charge £300 for highlights, which can take the best part of a day. No wonder salon employers can’t pay decent wages. And let’s face it, if you say to a young person, as a hairdresser you’re going to be on £1,500 a month and you’ll have to work long hours including Saturdays, or you can work in a bank for the same money and do a 9 to 5, Monday to Friday, they’re going to choose the bank. People say freelancers are ruining the industry, but they only say this because they want you to work for them and pay their mortgage!”

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17/09/2021 11:40

On The Floor Report

Case study

Lynette Murray SELF-EMPLOYED

“Salon owners have become too greedy” “I was employed in salons for 16 years and during that time I built up a reputation as a bridal specialist. I loved the time I spent with my clients, but the salon always had control over the appointment book, and too often my clients would be moved around and allocated to other stylists. I really didn’t enjoy that. “We were also constantly being pressurised to make more money for the salon. The whole focus was on commission and targets and not on the craft. It was like working on a production line, and my bosses had forgotten the whole point is to make the customer feel special, give them a great experience. One day, the salon owner came in and said ‘I want to go on holiday in a few weeks’

time, so you need to help pay for it’. I thought: ‘I need to change this or leave hairdressing altogether.’ “I found a space in an old linen mill in Belfast and over the past five years have created a lovely little space – everything is ethical and sustainable and I absolutely love it. I’ve resisted approaches from all the big product brands and instead work with a brand that not only ticks all the ethical boxes, but also allows me to order as much or as little stock as I want. “I have a business partner now and he and I share all the costs of running the space, but we each keep all our own takings. That, for me, is the way forward for this industry – finding a more equal structure, regardless of what kind of business you run.”

Searching for staff There are ongoing and significant challenges around recruitment, with many employers finding a lack of quality applicants of school-leaving age. Many mentioned the fact that schools persist in prioritising academic routes over apprenticeships, and hairdressing is rarely promoted as a viable career option. Almost all the employees we spoke to, whether junior or senior, had ‘fallen’ into the industry by chance, rather than desire – usually as a result of a recommendation from

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friends or family members already working in hairdressing. One salon owner said: “We’re trying to recruit and we just can’t find anyone worth employing. What is happening to all the young people? They’re not being pushed to do the creative crafts. The education system is letting us down.” “When kids were told to stay on at school until they were 18, that’s when our problems started. And now everybody’s told to go to university. We’ve lost all the people that would go into hairdressing.” “We’re not getting the right people into the industry now because it’s being framed as ‘Well, you didn’t get good grades at school, so you can only do hairdressing or construction’. A lot of people are coming into the industry thinking it’s going to be easy: go to college for a year then make loads of money doing a mobile round. People aren’t getting the right information.” Said another: “The struggle is finding those passionate people who actually want to be in the industry, rather than everything just being a chore – ‘I’ve got to sweep floors and I’ve got to go make cups of tea’ – and not seeing beyond that. It’s getting them to want to be a hairdresser long-term.” On the other hand, some of the apprentices we spoke to mentioned the poor treatment they’d either witnessed or experienced in salons: “I was so surprised at the way assistants were spoken to, the way they were treated. People getting shouted at, things that just would not fly in any other work environment. Really basic things, like your shift is meant to end at 7pm and it’s ending at 7.45pm. No questions asked. And these are 16-year-olds – their mums are waiting outside.” Claims that the trend towards self-employment might be behind a drop-off in apprenticeships (as freelancers traditionally do not hire staff) were met with anger by the freelance group we spoke to. “This isn’t a freelancer question, it’s a matter for employers. What have we been doing for the past 20 years that we thought any business model could operate that pays someone £3 an hour? And now you’re coming to freelancers and asking us what we’re going to do about it? I’m proud to be part of the freelance sector because we’ll create new opportunities for people to come in, if the industry allows us to.” By using Instagram to document their working lives, freelancers say they’re creating a more attractive and compelling vision of hairdressing as a career, thereby attracting new talent into the industry. “Someone once told me how freelancers were ruining the industry, because of the situation with apprentices. But I feel like as we’re doing our own thing, it’s actually pretty inspirational to future hairdressers to see us kicking ass and doing what we want to do. I have a lot of young people follow me on Instagram and some of them have let me know I’ve made them want to go into the industry.” “I go into my daughter’s school and talk to the kids about hairdressing. I’ve given them a tour of my studio and I tell them: ‘This is what you can do. I didn’t pass my 11-Plus, but now I own my own business and I can earn £7,000 in two weeks. You can do this too!’”

17/09/2021 11:40

Case study

Yuly Massoni EMPLOYER, LONDON

“I’m struggling to hire, and Brexit has made things worse”

Case study

Samantha Toogood SELF-EMPLOYED

“Level 2 doesn’t equip you to go freelance” “I was 18 when I qualified as a hairdresser but I carried on going to college as I wanted to update my knowledge, and in the salon I worked in at the time I was just there to sweep the floors. Right now, I’m assessing Level 2 students and teaching some Level 1, too, and I balance this with my freelance career. “I know there are issues with college training but I still find it unhelpful when I see some of the derogatory comments posted on social media by salon owners – we just don’t need that kind of conversation in the industry now. Today’s teenagers are different; not lazy as such, just a bit more molly-coddled

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than we used to be, and often not ready for full-time employment. College training gives them more of a stepping stone than an in-salon apprenticeship. “What I do know is that most of my students simply do not have a clue about where a career in hairdressing can take them. They just haven’t been given the information about working in fashion or avant-garde hairdressing. And just because I’m freelance myself doesn’t mean I push them into that – to be honest, they’re just not ready at Level 2. I want to train and inspire good allround hairdressers, who will go on to have long and successful careers.”

“I have 17 staff, all employed, but I’m finding it increasingly difficult to hire. The majority of my team is European so Brexit has hit hard – it’s crazy that you can sponsor a chef to work here, but not a hairdresser. “I need to take on another three people but everyone wants to be self-employed and that’s not the culture I want in my salon. But then, I don’t know if I’m falling behind in the industry and that I should change the way I do things. “Before, I had one person who was self-employed and the rest were employees, and it really didn’t work. You kind of lose control because you can’t ask the selfemployed person to work

certain hours or certain days, and the rules around this are a minefield. "So I’m really struggling with the idea that the way I want to go forward is the wrong way, or that it is simply not the way forward anymore. “I’ve lost a few of my team to self-employment and I think that’s due to a lot of salons promoting the idea that they’re going to earn so much more money. But if you follow the rules properly, there’s actually not that much difference in earnings. “If everyone did it by the book then it might be okay, but so many people are not doing it right and it’s not a level playing field. It’s not good for the industry long-term.”

Apprenticeships aren’t working It’s clear to stylists and owners alike that the system isn’t fit for purpose. Currently, salons tend to avoid employing older apprentices as those apprentices aged 19 and over can only be paid at the apprenticeship rate for the first year of their apprenticeship – the following year their wage adjusts to the appropriate National Minimum Wage band for their age. This jump in wage costs to the employer can be anything from £3,000 to £7,000, depending on the age of the apprentice and is simply unaffordable for many salons when the student is unable to generate any income for the business. This jump in cost for the second year for older

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17/09/2021 11:40

On The Floor Report

learners greatly influences which apprentices salons take on, reducing opportunities for those who wish to reskill. Government doesn’t have a proper understanding of the sector when it sets the rules for apprenticeships, says the NHBF, citing the example that employers are not able to claim apprenticeship incentive payments if they take on existing Saturday or part-time staff because they are not considered 'new' employees – effectively removing the incentive from one of the traditional entries into the industry. The government’s most recent Skill Recovery Package offered just £3,000 for new employees of any age who started their apprenticeship between 1 April 2021 and 30 September 2021. However, a typical 16- to 18-year-old apprentice full time wage for 24 months (the period of the apprenticeship) costs about £14,660 and a typical wage for an apprentice aged 19 and over is about £20,800, so this funding provides no real incentive for employers. “Why is it okay to fund 16-year-olds for something they’re going to want to do for another two years and hopefully another 10 years, but not a 20-something or even a 30-something who really wants that as their job, is passionate about it? It’s not fair.” Despite universal agreement among our groups that apprenticeships are vital to the industry, and despite unprecedented government financial incentives, the number of apprenticeship starts has plummeted in recent years – down 30 per cent in 2019/20 and with a further 50 per cent drop reported for 2020/21. A lack of apprentices is impacting on all members of the team, with stylists in particular finding life difficult on the salon floor: “We’re really struggling to find apprentices – we’ve got barely anyone, and there are a couple of days a week when we’ve got no cover so we have to man the front desk and shampoo ourselves. We’re a good team, we help each other out and we cope really well but it’s so much better when there are apprentices around to help and to learn from you, as well. I love having an apprentice who’s asking me questions and is passionate about learning.” Lots of the salon owners we spoke to wanted to see reform around apprenticeships, particularly around funding for older apprentices, whom they appreciate offer something more to their business but can be cripplingly expensive. “I took on my apprentice when she was 26 and it was the best decision I’ve made because she’s amazing. She really helps and I can see her having a great career. But we’ve had zero funding for her, given her age, and I think that’s unfair – you shouldn’t be able to discriminate against age like that. If the government can rethink the way they fund apprentices, it could help stop this age discrimination.” There was widespread agreement that apprentices could be treated better in-salon too, with some actively taking steps to address this: “We’ve all been in a position where we’ve had apprentices who’ve been quite shocked at how much cleaning is involved. As a salon owner, I still do the cleaning. I’m quite happy to go and clean the toilet if it needs cleaning. I think it’s important that we act as role models for the younger generation.”

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Case study

Sally Sears-Black ASSISTANT, GLASGOW

“I realised nobody’s going to employ me because I’m seen as too old and too expensive” “I had worked in office management for years when I decided to try something new. I looked at all kinds of different sectors but they all seemed over-subscribed – except for hairdressing. “So at the age of 28 I went to hairdressing college and got my qualifications, but really struggled to find a salon that would take me on. It was only then that I realised nobody’s going to employ me because I’m seen as too old and too expensive. “At that point I really thought I would have to go self-employed and somehow educate myself along the way, by enrolling for courses or watching YouTube videos, and then I’d be able to do a skills test. It was a pretty daunting thought, because how would I know what was good and what was not? As a college leaver, there really is a massive gap between

Level 2 and where you need to be in order to make a living – but nobody tells you about that and there is so little support out there. In the end I was lucky – I had a chance meeting with my current salon bosses, who have taken me on, pay me the National Living Wage and are helping me build up my clientele. I could not be happier. “I wish people were more open to the idea of employing older apprentices. We offer so much more in terms of experience and confidence, and I know I’m worth the extra expense when it comes to getting things organised and bringing something extra to the business. “And when you’ve given up a previous career like I did to come into hairdressing – you’ve got 100 per cent commitment to the job before we’ve even started.”

17/09/2021 11:41

Case study

Sara Rigby-Holmes

EMPLOYER, THE COTSWOLDS

Case study

Holly Kirkham APPRENTICE, LEEDS

“In school nobody told us about apprenticeships or hairdressing as a career” “At school, no one spoke to us about hairdressing or any other kind of apprenticeship – the entire focus was on getting A-Levels and going to university. So I chose my A-Levels and my parents were really excited that I had a vision of a career in law, but then part-way through the course I decided it wasn’t for me. I just knew that I wanted to do an apprenticeship instead. “It was difficult persuading my parents that an apprenticeship was worth doing – there’s just so little awareness about what an apprenticeship means nowadays – and when I told them I wanted to do a hairdressing apprenticeship my dad was definitely not pleased; he felt I was taking the easy option. But my mum is a mobile hairdresser and I knew I already had some of the basic skills I would need and was excited to

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develop them. “There’s so much misunderstanding and lack of awareness about what’s involved in hairdressing. The salon where I’m training gets involved in awards events and sends stylists to Fashion Week, but people don’t see those bits – they only see the bit where you’re running a column inside a salon. And nobody thinks of hairdressing as a career that you might actually want to aim for – at our school they called the college where you do your NVQs ‘The Dropout College’. “I’m still friendly with my teachers at school and have arranged to go back in and talk to the Year 11 pupils about their options and about how life isn’t just about A-Levels. My teachers can see I’ve chosen a different path and I’m excited to share my experience with others.”

“My training bond deters apprentices from leaving once they’re qualified” “As any employer will know, apprentices are a huge investment – in my business we book out our senior stylists to train them, with the loss of revenue that entails, we send them off to college, book them out off the salon floor when the colleges come in to do their training or assessments – but past experience has taught me that we could spend all that time, energy and effort on them, only for them to get to the end of their training and decide they didn’t want to be a hairdresser anymore. That’s why I wanted to create a benefit for them that locks them into the business and disincentivises them from leaving. “For the past 10 years or so we’ve been operating a training bond. This is a £500 sum that is collected in monthly instalments of around £20 or £25 over the apprentice’s two-year training period. I pay my apprentices just over the National Minimum Wage for their age, so I’m able

to make these deductions and still ensure they’re paid properly. The bond is then put into a pot and I make a note of when it can be repaid. At the end of the first year after the apprentice qualifies, they get 50 per cent of the bond – and a £250 payment at that age is a huge sum of money. The remaining 50 per cent is paid when they complete their second year of service. However, if they leave the salon before that time, they forfeit either all of the bond or half of it, depending on when they leave. “The training bond has been really successful for me – in 10 years I’ve only had two assistants quit before they’d completed their NVQs and forfeited their bond – but how you sell it is important, and you must be honest and open. I explain that I’m not taking their money, I’m holding it for them, and I also explain that as we’re making a big investment in them, the bond is not only to look after them but also to protect the business.”

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On The Floor Report

Money rules Salon employers have never felt so challenged, with so many staff migrating into self-employment, and nonVAT paying businesses undercutting them on price. But they’re not giving up on direct employment yet – though there’s widespread agreement on the need to rethink the work/life balance for employees. Operating a salon has always been something of a lonely business, but if you’re running a business that employs staff, you’re likely to feel especially isolated right now. Many of the employers we spoke to mentioned how they were pretty much the only businesses still offering employed hairdressing roles in their local area – all other salons having moved to self-employed/chair rental models. Employers perceive that for many businesses, using selfemployed workers has become a way of circumventing rising staff costs, and they question whether these workers are actually technically self-employed at all. They also believe it’s become a means of dodging tax, with turnover being reduced – artificially or otherwise – below the VAT threshold without reducing profits or prices, thus creating unfair competition. And there is frustration that HMRC has not yet been enforcing the law in terms of stamping out the ‘disguised employment’ that they believe is impacting negatively on their own, fully compliant businesses. “The only reason people are switching to self-employed is because [these businesses] are promising them very high percentages of what they’re taking. And that’s because they can afford to do so because they can avoid having to pay tax. It’s as simple as that – it’s tax avoidance.” “There are some salons that genuinely operate as a fully independent salon space, but everybody else seems to be doing it to keep their salons under the VAT threshold. I have no problem with people being self-employed at all – but it has to be done correctly.” “The problem is that our margins are just being squeezed; there isn’t actually much incentive to employ people anymore. The government dumps the problem of pensions onto employers, with auto-enrolment and then there are the National Minimum Wage increases, the National Insurance contributions… We’re still fighting for a lower rate of VAT, because as an input and output tax, VAT doesn’t work for this industry.”

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Case study

Carl Fox

EMPLOYER, LEICESTER

“We have to rethink how we pay, manage and reward our teams” “Why do we persist in paying our stylists National Minimum Wage plus commission? I’m part of a group of salon owners who meet up to chew the fat, and this question comes up regularly, but nobody has the answer. I think it’s a hangover from the ’80s, when there was a trend away from salaries to pay stylists a basic wage plus commission – to incentivise them to work harder, sell more, and so on. “But the industry has changed since then. Millennials aren’t used to working towards targets and, let’s face it, even just one client cancelling because they’ve been pinged can ensure that a target gets missed. I don’t think it’s fair that a hard-working stylist can go from feast to famine like that. “Within a 10-mile radius of my business there are only two salons that are still employing people – all the rest are operating under the guise of self-employment and I have lost a couple of staff to them. So we’re

changing the way we pay our stylists. We looked at what commission earnings had been per individual in the 2019/20 tax year (the most recent accurate measure) and realised that they were all going to earn it anyway so why not pay it upfront as part of their salary? It doesn’t cost the salon any more, it takes the pressure off the stylist and, along with a good appraisal system, it encourages better team working because people aren’t out for themselves. “It also means that I can point to this new hourly rate and demonstrate that it’s equivalent to what they would earn if they were self-employed. Plus, they get all the extras, such as 28 days of paid holiday, a pension and a career path supported by proper training and development. “Salon owners moan about losing staff to self-employment, but their heads are in a space from 40 years ago. We’ll never lose the stigma of hairdressing being a low-paid career until we start treating our staff differently.”

17/09/2021 11:41

OPINION PIECE

HELLEN WARD SALON OWNER AND CO-FOUNDER OF SAVE OUR SALONS

“We are paying VAT on skills” “Conventional salon owners are facing unprecedented challenges. The traditional business model employing PAYE staff and apprentices in the sector is having to endure being one of the most heavily taxed businesses operating on the UK high street. “The challenges brought about by the pandemic have long been identified as threats to our profitability and business model, but the real obstacles we face were sadly there long before Covid-19. Not only do salons require bricks and mortar premises to operate, with the huge expense that incurs (business rates, service charges, rent, utilities), unlike online retailers, who incur none of these costs or overheads, but we also need staff to deliver our services. And employing people (paid holiday, maternity/paternity leave, commission being averaged out over 52 weeks for paid holiday purposes, the increasing HR burden on the average independent employer) has never been so expensive. Many other service industries can help recoup their VAT through stock and consumables. Not us – we are paying VAT on skills, essentially. And unlike any other service providers who are labour-intensive, we have the financial burden of not being able to do so without expensive premises. “VAT is a tax that is often misunderstood. VAT is an input/output tax that is levied on adding value at each stage of the goods transactions. For instance, a leather manufacturer sells leather to a shoe manufacturer and adds 20 per cent VAT. The shoe manufacturer sells the shoes they’ve made to the retailer and adds 20 per cent VAT. The retailer sells to the end user/purchaser and adds 20 per cent VAT – hence Value Added Tax – at each stage value is added, tax is paid. “What makes VAT so unfair is that when you are selling the services of people you are really only selling time, not product. There is nothing to recoup, other than minimal

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stock costs involved in creating the service, which at most will be VAT on 10 per cent of turnover. “Frankly, some of the people working in the sector and purporting to represent us put out wholly misleading information that is highly concerning – you do not automatically incur a bill if you hit the current threshold of £85,000 in any 12-month period. You simply register for VAT from that moment on and start charging VAT from the point of registration (so your prices should go up by 20 per cent, in theory), and you are able to recoup any VAT charged on goods and invoices to you. “The Chop the VAT campaign was looking for a shortterm reduction in VAT and this was rejected in the March 2021 budget. It became clear from the feedback that the Treasury’s perception of our industry is that the vast majority of businesses are not registered for VAT, therefore a VAT reduction would not be beneficial to enough salons and that a grant was the right form of support instead. “This is, of course, not the case, and the Save Our Salons mission is to correct that perception, which in part has been created by our industry’s trade associations speaking to government largely only about the people/ members they are paid/employed to represent. There is, frankly, a tangible lack of knowledge and sectorial experience from many of those representing us at government level. “The SOS objective remains to achieve a split-rate VAT rate for the UK hair and beauty industry, much like the one that has been in place in Ireland since 2010. It would increase the tax take as more salons register but pay less on the elements where they cannot recoup VAT (labour) and the lower threshold helps alleviate VAT avoidance and possible losses for the Treasury. “Salon owners employing staff and paying VAT are still, we believe, not adequately represented and this is impacting us hugely. It’s time to think about forming a new association that can effectively lobby and campaign for the vast majority of us who make up the sector that is still trying to run the conventional salon business model and desperately trying to safeguard and protect jobs and apprenticeships to guarantee that we have a next generation working in the industry. The fact we are considered ‘fractured’ and ‘splintered’, coupled with our lack of regulation, means we have no official governance or representation, yet this is more important than ever. “As a sector made up predominantly of small/medium business enterprises not only are we are an essential part of the high street, bringing cyclical, regular footfall to other retailers, but we also nurture, train and develop young people through apprenticeships that make us the best at our craft globally. We also predominantly employ women, who make up 88 per cent of the workforce. It’s time we were properly recognised as employers of young people and women and some of these heavy taxation burdens were removed, to allow us to flourish and enjoy the profitability we deserve.”

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On The Floor Report

OPINION PIECE

COLLETTE OSBORNE, SALON OWNER AND FOUNDER OF SALON OWNERS UNITED

“You have to be crystal-clear about the status of your workers” “Turning your salon into a chair renting model may have its advantages, such as a reduction in employment costs, but it is a fast-changing and dangerous path in terms of compliance, littered with tribunal rulings. So what are the key things to consider to help you protect your business? “The Good Work Plan came into effect in April 2020 and is designed to give greater protection to those working under more flexible arrangements – those ‘workers’ in employment law who occupy the middle ground between employee and self-employed. As a result, you have to be crystal-clear about the status of your workers, hence all the interest around ‘disguised employment’. “IR35 was implemented by the government this year to clarify taxation of ‘off-payroll working’, and has left many salon owners confused. While it is true that IR35 will not impact the vast majority of salons as they are not large enough, it does not alter the rules regarding the employment test or whether someone is legally regarded as self-employed. So please don’t get hung up on it, concentrate instead on the declared status of workers in your business. “As part of the Good Work Plan, a statement of main terms – normally known as the employment contract – must now be available to the self-employed as well as to employees. It must have details on all leave entitlement, probation periods and so on. It is prudent to have an employment lawyer write your contract and employee handbook, as well as provide revisions as legislation is updated. An individual’s rights depends on their employment status and, in the event of a tribunal or HMRC investigation, a series of tests will be used to determine those rights. Here is a snapshot of those tests: l Whether the individual is required to do the work themselves. l Unfettered right to substitute – meaning the individual could send in a substitute worker at any time and the business has no right to vet this substitute.

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l Who has control over how, when, where and what work is carried out. l If the individual is integrated into the business of the employer. l Whether there is some form of commitment or obligation between the individual and employer, beyond that of just a contract. l Who books appointments, who takes payment, who holds client data. l Who bears the financial risk, such as income, bookings, products. A truly self-employed individual should be able to suffer losses as well as enjoy profits. Recently self-employed/rent-a-chair workers have claimed employment status at tribunal against salons. The most significant case was M Gorman versus Terence Paul (Manchester) Ltd, which ruled that the claimant was in fact an employee of the salon. There have now been several more important cases brought, with the most recent being where automatic unfair dismissal was granted after only six months of service. All succeeded using case law from rulings against Pimlico plumbers, Uber, Deliveroo, and others. Employment status was retrospectively granted based on characteristics of the ‘relationship’ via the tests. In these cases, individuals won: l Automatic unfair dismissal. l Back pay for holidays, maternity and sick leave. l National Minimum Wage back pay. l Redundancy pay. l Employers National Insurance and pensions contributions back pay. l In some cases sex discrimination claims.

What are your next steps to help your salon stay on the right side of the law? Salon Owners United has a few top tips to help… 1. Use the checklist. Check your employment contracts against the tests; this will help you determine if you have control over a self-employed person in your salon. A more extensive checklist is available to download free from our Facebook group – search on Facebook for ‘Salon Owners United’. 2. Get your contracts in order. Use an employment lawyer to assist and do not rely on generic templates. Salon Owners United works with Peninsula Group employment lawyers. 3. What if I receive a tribunal letter or a visit from HMRC? If this happens you need to get expert advice immediately. For HMRC start with your accountant, for a tribunal talk to your lawyer, who can advise you and begin Early Conciliation proceedings with Acas, the UK workplace relations service. 4. Consider insurance. If you haven’t already got insurance for tax investigations through your accountant, talk to your contract provider or business insurance provider. 5. Get further advice. Join Salon Owners United by searching on Facebook, where you can also see webinars from Peninsula Group.

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Employment models need a shake-up. Almost all the employers we spoke to had staff who had left to go selfemployed and were trying to address the reasons why this would be happening. There was universal agreement that employers need to remain relevant and competitive within the industry, offering benefits to staff that aren’t necessarily available to the self-employed. Many were working on introducing more flexibility into working practices within their salon, with a view to improving their team’s work/life balance. “I’ve always been: ‘You’ve got to work a late night, you’ve got to work every Saturday’ – old school! And when we first came back after the pandemic we worked really long hours and it was relentless. But the pandemic has made lots of people reassess their lives, including me, and we all want to see family more and have a better work/life balance. So we’re having those conversations a lot more in my salon.” “As salon owners we need to change the perception that employment has to be restrictive. We’ve got to get a better work/life balance. Covid-19 has moved the goalposts and it’s up to us to be more understanding and sympathetic to our staff.” “I opened up my first shop in 2014, a small shop, and subsequently all those members of staff have left and I’ve really had to think about how I run my business. We now have a really good culture, where staff are working a four-day week and we have lots of flexibility within the rota. We’ve realised that just because there was a way of doing it before, that you were brought up with, doesn’t mean that has to be the way of doing it in the future. If you make it good, staff don’t want to leave. And if people do leave, then there’ll be someone who steps forward who wants to join.” One employed stylist said: “During the pandemic we all had more free time and so now we’re all back at work I’d like to have a better work/life balance. I understand weekends can be busy for salons but working every Saturday means we miss out on so many things, such as family get-togethers. It would be great to have a little bit more flexibility.” HYBRID SOLUTIONS Self-employed and employed workers together is a potentially dangerous mix. With so many of their local competitors going down the self-employed business model, some of the employers we spoke to had looked into doing the same themselves – or even tried it. “I started my business seven years ago, and I’ve always believed in having a fully employed team because my longterm plan is to build a brand. But when I bought my second salon a few months before Covid-19, I inherited some selfemployed staff and I kept them on at the time as I was going

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Electric Space

Finding the way forward

through that transition period. I found it to be an absolute minefield and very difficult to maintain my brand, my ethics. I couldn’t deliver the vibe I wanted my clients to experience when they walked into the salon because everyone was doing their own thing. So when we re-opened after the last lockdown, we went back to a purely employed model and I feel like I have control of my brand again.” With so much confusion around the rules around selfemployment, compliance – ensuring the business is operating within the letter of the law – was a major cause for concern. “We looked at it during lockdown, wondering whether we should give our team the opportunity to go selfemployed but it was so complicated.” One salon owner we spoke to only employs his assistants as there is no demand for employed stylist roles in his local area. “And it’s a nightmare, to be honest. There are too many bosses in one salon. When you rent out your chairs, the stylists feel that they have power over you because you’re relying on their income.” There was also a word of warning to salon owners who have abandoned employment to go down the chair rental route: “Is this a method people should be going forward with? Only if they want to risk having no assets. Because if you have a self-employed salon, you have no sellable business, no goodwill, no tangible assets. You’ve completely devalued your pension pot. So what’s your exit plan?”

Rise of the collective “Offering members a chance to work flexibly” Rather than renting a chair in a traditional salon or driving house-to-house to see clients, the birth of a working hub, with pitch-perfect facilities and like-minded independents, has also spurred on

the perception of The Freelancer 2.0. Here, you as an independent maintain control. The launch of Hunter Collective in 2017 by Lacey Hunter-Felton was among the first – alongside Ky Wilson’s The Social – to

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On The Floor Report

really garner the industry’s attention. A spacious site in London’s Clerkenwell with a photographic studio and co-working space for creatives alongside hairdressing stations, the idea was to offer the chance for members to work flexibly around their schedules while meeting fellow beauty professionals and creatives, all with an eye on growing their own businesses. And, as it quite frankly states on its own website, the plan was to shake up the industry, too. Well, mission accomplished. As the second Hunter Collective location is set to open in Spitalfields in a Georgian town house, another town house across London has been exciting all those who visit (and the door is very much open to everyone for a look-see). Mark Woolley’s Electric Space is a members’ club that takes the collective concept to the next level. Alongside the photographic studio, the salon space and compact barber shop, there’s a juice bar, a bijou cinema and a club room for freelancers across creative industries to work. But it’s more than a space to work – there are business

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networking evenings, access to guest artist education, the possibility of collaborating with those in the worlds of fashion, art and beyond. Membership also gets you discounts on colour you buy there, with favourable rates of commission on all Electric products sold. Woolley is already a salon owner and an employer, but he’s also an entrepreneur with a keen sense of which way the wind is blowing. And while sceptics might argue “but only in London”, those outside of the capital are considering the collective idea as the way forward. Case in point is Patrick Marrow, who in lockdown rebranded his HiveMCR salon in Manchester as the Whitworth Street Creative Studio, recognising the changing work/life balance need post-pandemic. He reset his business model accordingly, and much like Mark Woolley, sees this venture as empowering independent creatives, and giving them freedom over their creativity, over their finances, over their day-today life – that they felt was missing in their previous salon experiences.

Case study

Jamie Brooks JAMIE BROOKS, EMPLOYER, LONDON

“We’re looking at a completely new structure for our business” “Our industry’s business model is outdated: the idea that you work in a fixed place, where everyone is employed, which is run from the top by an owner who pays themselves 10-times more than any of their staff, and all the opportunities are given to those who’ve been there the longest – it just doesn’t work anymore. No wonder all those young, ambitious stylists are going self-employed – they see that they can work less, get paid more and gain full control over their future. “For the past five years [my business partner] Sally and I have been looking at introducing a different blueprint for our business. For example, we’ve introduced staff loyalty bonuses, paid in January, that are based on a percentage of their takings over the previous 12 months – if you leave at any point before the following January, you forfeit the whole lot. But the industry – and ourselves included – need to take a longer term view and be more considerate of people’s long-term career goals. “We’ve been taking a

close look at the LLP format, which is common in legal firms. Here, the hierarchy is based on performance – shares are allocated according to how much you bring into the business – the more shares you have, the greater your share of the overall profits, and you’re paid in dividends, which don’t attract as much tax. It’s a model that helps align the individual’s interests with the team’s interest, so everyone has a greater sense of ownership and engagement in building a bigger, better business. “The industry has got to adapt. We’ve seen how people have panicked and sent all their staff self-employed overnight. In fact, so many salons are doing it, there are too many salons for the number of self-employed stylists out there and the salons are having to undercut each other to attract stylists in. “I predict it will go full circle, with salons realising they need to train and employ to ensure they have enough staff, but for the next couple of years it’s going to be carnage.”

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Case study

Sally Montague

SALON OWNER, DERBYSHIRE

“As a business we will never go down the selfemployed route – we would rather close down. Even though almost every other salon in our area has gone self-employed, we’re known as a big employer and we haven’t had any shortage of people applying for jobs. “Looking at what’s happening in our industry, we felt the two main drivers into selfemployment are a desire for more flexibility and a desire to earn more money. In terms of the latter, we were confident that there was no issue with that at our salon – we pay really well. But flexibility could have become an issue. Our clients love getting their hair done on Saturdays, and yet that’s often the day our staff want to take off. “Our new Swap-aSaturday initiative means each member of staff has a certain number of Saturdays every year that

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they can swap to work on a different day of the week. It’s all got to be agreed in advance, of course – it’s got to work for the business as well as the stylist – but it just gives that extra bit of flexibility that everybody needs. And it shows that, as a business, we’re still evolving and listening to our team and respecting what they want out of life. “The more senior the staff, the more Saturdays they get to swap. It’s all part of the Ladder of Success that we operate within the business – an illustration of the different levels you can get to and the associated benefits. We want people to have a long and worthwhile career with us, and this instantly helps them to map out their path. “Swap-a-Saturday has gone down a treat; it’s been really popular. And word has obviously got out because we’ve had lots of new applications to work with us!”

Matthew Sutcliffe and Zak Whitely

“Our Swap-a-Saturday initiative helps deliver the flexibility people are looking for”

TINT – a new hybrid business model “We are constantly reviewing what we can offer stylists as part of their benefits package” Matthew Sutcliffe, along with business partner Zak Whitely, set up TINT in Leeds, having both worked as fully employed stylists and then in a self-employed salon. Says Matthew: “When I left my employed role I worked at a salon which only had self-employed stylists. I loved the energy of that salon and that I earned more money but also had the flexibility to choose when I worked. Zak and I both discussed that self-employment was probably the future, but we knew it could be done better.” Seeing a gap in the market, Matthew and Zak created TINT as a new hybrid model – offering the education, training and opportunities traditionally associated with being employed full-time, but with the flexible and financial advantages

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17/09/2021 11:43

On The Floor Report

The Blushes board, from left: Samantha Sibery, Dominic Blake, Georgia Faulkner

of being self-employed. The stylists operate as a team, despite their individual independent status. And there are still full-time employees: TINT currently has four assistants and two receptionists. Assistants receive the usual hairdressing training and are employed as stylists for their first few years. “We don’t believe in self-employment for graduates as they need to enjoy developing as a stylist from the onset of qualifying, rather than have the stress of doing their own accounts or trying to be a business,” explains Matthew. “They need to learn to be the best they can at being a hairdresser first. Then, when ready, they are taught all they need to be successful self-employees. “The TINT model is primarily rent-a-chair. We are constantly reviewing what we can offer stylists as part of their benefits package that will keep them here, rather than choosing another salon. It’s inevitable that many more people are opting for self-employed status and so as an industry we should embrace this and work with it not against it – it’s not going anywhere. I know there is an argument about VAT, but we charge and pay VAT on our chair rental, and our selfemployed team members pay their own taxes properly.”

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The Blushes Collective – a new careers-not-jobs approach “It’s about listening and exploring options” It’s all change at Blushes, the award-winning salon group that opened its fifth salon this year. A new corporate direction, The Blushes Collective, has seen the introduction of faster training for new recruits and new multiemployment opportunities for staff. At The Blushes Academy the three-year training standard has been replaced with an accelerated new six-month training programme that sees students training five days a week and qualifying in less than a third of the time of the average salon. This reduced time to completion means individuals of any age and with any experience are welcomed; one of four students currently enrolled on the programme is 42 years old and was previously employed in sales. Responding to the changing employment landscape, The Blushes Collective has taken a careers-not-jobs approach, including mentoring individuals

to reach their individual goals, whether that’s to be the best hairdresser possible or to upskill in a new area of business, such as marketing, PR or management. In addition, all hairdressers and beauty therapists within the Collective can now choose to be employed or self-employed, allowing team members to explore different options. The Blushes Collective is the brainchild of the company’s new board of directors, who used the time available because of lockdown to create a new business model. “We decided during our rebrand to listen to what was going on in the world of recruitment and make the benefit of flexible hours and days available to our own employees,” says marketing director Georgia Faulkner. “We don’t micro-manage our teams anyway; we want them to feel they can express their own personalities and thought processes in their work, which enables multiple employment models to exist in one environment together.”

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p e e k d n a Catch ‘MARKETING’ MAY SOUND CLINICAL AND DISPASSIONATE, BUT IT’S REALLY THE ART OF CONNECTION. IF IT’S A SKILL YOU’RE LOOKING TO HONE, DON’T GO IT ALONE. PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE’S TOOLS AND MARKETING SUITE ARE LIKE HAVING YOUR VERY OWN IN-HOUSE MARKETING TEAM

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CREATIVE HEAD

17/09/2021 11:44

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

IF THERE’S ONE thing you learn as a business owner, it’s that it is impossible to be everywhere at once. You need to delegate, to hone your strengths and identify your weaknesses. Marketing covers so much, from managing your social media and website, sharing your reviews, emailing and communicating with your current clients, as well as finding new ones. You might thrive on turning your creativity to this aspect of the business, or you might need a helping hand. Phorest Salon Software’s tools and marketing suite is so varied and personalised that it’s like an extension of your own team, with Phorest’s expert guidance helping you to get new clients on board, keep them and delight them. Starting with your online presence and reputation – to rely on word of mouth alone is missing a trick. To catch a client’s eye, you can set up Online Reputation with Phorest Salon Software. There’s nothing quite as powerful as hundreds of five-star reviews on Facebook, Google and Yelp to have new clients feeling a sense of trust before they even book in with you. With Phorest, you can set up automated review requests (via SMS or email) to go straight to your client after their appointment. Once these come in, you can choose to highlight your top reviews and post these onto your Facebook, Google or Yelp with just one click. You can also monitor and respond to any negative reviews and gain valuable feedback. Everything can be a lesson.

To make sure that these new clients you’ve worked so hard to convince to book online actually show up for their appointment, set a deposit for them so that you can encourage their commitment to their appointment. With Phorest’s Online Deposits feature you can set an upfront deposit on online bookings which protects your salon’s income and improves your cash flow. It has been shown that when clients pay a deposit in advance of a service, they’re much more likely to show up. Phorest salons using this feature have seen no-shows decrease by 65 per cent!

SPEAK TO ME

Relevance and availability are the two tools to wield to encourage new customers to book in with you. Use your social media profiles to share beautiful pictures of your amazing work, as well as those glowing reviews from your Online Reputation button. With Phorest you can now add a ‘Book Now’ button to your Facebook and Instagram pages to tempt curious viewers and transform them into a client. It’s so easy – 1,000+ Phorest salons already have this button set up! A traditional website is also a key part of capturing new clients. Display your pricing and the services you offer clearly, so that future clients can look at your website and know exactly what you offer and how much it will cost. Don’t make the mistake of assuming they will know what you offer – lay everything out clearly. You can set up Online Booking with Phorest so that clients can see how much each part of each service costs, and also the services you have available. You can even have this mirrored on your social media pages too, so you never miss a curious customer.

IN THE BAG Marketing tools help you better communicate – to get across who you are, and what you represent. Use the pre-made, bespoke email, and SMS templates in your Phorest system to communicate regularly with your clients and target them with the Client Reconnect feature, which identifies and automatically reminds them by SMS or email to rebook if they’ve fallen out of their usual booking cycle. With all this taken care of, you can focus on delivering an incredible in-person salon experience. Phorest’s array of salon software options are geared towards helping your business run smoothly, not just to attracting customers. Ensure a seamless transaction every time with Phorest’s Online Booking system. Client card details are saved when they book online and can be used for a cardless checkout when paying in the salon. Less admin, less queuing, more focus on the experience – that’s a winning combination.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT HOW PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE CAN HELP YOU COMMUNICATE TO CLIENTS ON ALL LEVELS. BOOK YOUR FREE DEMO AT PHOREST.COM CREATIVE HEAD

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17/09/2021 11:45

A FREE NEW MENTORING SCHEME FROM CREATIVE HEAD AND THE INDUSTRY THAT PROVIDES HELP AND SUPPORT FOR HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS OWNERS AT ANY STAGE OF THEIR CAREER. WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? APPLICATIONS ARE OPEN NOW! Running a hairdressing business can be overwhelming. Launching a new salon, expanding your concept or taking the plunge into self-employment can feel incredibly scary, and it’s at times like these that we understand the value of a mentor – someone who understands your work environment, has experience of the kind of hurdles you’re facing and can provide practical and personal support. Activator is a new mentoring scheme from Creative HEAD and The Industry, open to hairdressing business owners at any stage of their career, that could see you being paired with a top industry name – an Activator – who will be your mentor for a full 12 months. During this time your Activator will be your critical friend – acting as your sounding board, providing honest advice, introducing relevant and valuable contacts and networks and helping you learn and grow.

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HOW TO APPLY Send us no more than 200 words telling us where you’re at with your business and the main challenges you’re facing. We’ll then pair you with the relevant Activator mentor, who’ll provide support and guidance for a full 12 months. Find all the details you need at creativeheadmag.com/activator. Applications close Friday 15 October

17/09/2021 11:45

MEET THE ACTIVATORS

TOP INDUSTRY NAMES, WITH YEARS OF INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE. WHO WILL YOU BE PAIRED WITH?

CHRISTEL BARRON-HOUGH salon owner, London

DYLAN BRADSHAW salon owner, Dublin

NAOMI BROOKS salon owner, Manchester

JORDANNA COBELLA salon owner, London

LISA FARRALL independent

SYD HAYES session stylist

ASHLEIGH HODGES independent

TARIQ HOWES salon owner, Cardiff

SIOBHAN JONES independent

DANIELLE KENNEDY salon owner, Wexford

JENNIFER LINTON salon owner, Aberdeen

JAYE MACDONALD salon owner, Aberdeen

CLAIRE MARTIN-KENNEDY independent

RICHARD PHILLIPART salon owner, Cheshire

SHARON ROBINSON session stylist

LEE STAFFORD entrepreneur

HARRIET STOKES independent

RICKY WALTERS salon owner, London

KY WILSON entrepreneur

MARK WOOLLEY entrepreneur

Apply now at creativeheadmag.com/activator. Applications close Friday 15 October

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17/09/2021 11:46

GLASGOW IS CALLING

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21/09/2021 15:28

HUB

Welcome to the Salon Smart HUB – the place to turn to for advice and to keep on top of business. Powered by Creative HEAD in exclusive partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, there are fresh content drops every month and on-demand access to videos, panel debates, podcasts, articles, reports and more – all featuring a host of experts sharing their knowledge and guidance.

Think of the Salon Smart HUB as your year-long business support network – there when you need it. It’s FREE, and it’s only a click away…

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LIVE

17/09/2021 11:48

AVAILABLE NOW ON THE HUB

No matter your career stage, support can be invaluable in achieving your business goals. Check out Activator – a new free mentoring scheme from Creative HEAD and The Industry

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17/09/2021 11:48

Mr. Q

… u o y s e m o c l e w

NEW GROOM ROOM Neon Black, London

Founded by Ravi Sharma, Neon Black is all about straddling the worlds of precision barbering and modern hairdressing, while delivering service akin to a Michelin-starred restaurant, with Sachajuan products.

SERENA HUSSAIN HILL Toni&Guy Birmingham

Describe yourself in ﬁve words… Passionate, energetic, unique, creative, loving. What’s exciting you about British barbering/ male grooming right now? How men’s hair is all about embracing the individual when it comes to hair and fashion. It’s promoting you to be the individual you want to be and embracing everything about yourself and each individual’s uniqueness. If I could change one thing… As a hairdresser and barber, one change for me would be introducing barbering into education at the very start of a hairdresser’s training journey. Men’s hair is just as important as ladies’, and so they should both be on a par. Also, not necessarily a change, but I would love to see more women being part of the amazing barbering industry.

Everything changed for me when… When I won the L’Oréal Professionnel and Toni&Guy scholarship with the Breakthrough Team in 2016. And being a global winner of the 2021 American Crew All Star Challenge is bound to change a few things too! The hairdressers that inspire me are… Jody Taylor, Bill Watson and Sylvestre Finold. Who else should we get to know? Pamela Cooney (@pams.hair), Yasmin Newhill (@yasmin_newhill) and Sam Waine (@bohemia_barbers). You might not know this about me… I trained as a contemporary dancer and studied performing arts.

GLASGOW SET FOR NEW BARBER SCHOOL More than £500,000 will be invested in a new hair salon and barber school from Sovereign Grooming in Glasgow. Founder Kyle Ross (pictured above) aims to train 600 barbers in the next decade and will takeover three ﬂoors of an 1890s building by iconic Scottish architect, William Leiper. Initially 20 new jobs will be created and the school will offer intensive 15-week courses.

Right now, I’m loving… Anything written or produced by Ryan Murphy (Pose, Halston, Boys in the Band), American Crew products, my label.m magic diffuser and my vintage stainless steel wireless detailers! Say hello to me… serena_hill13, houseof_opulence_

It’s all about colour right now with American Crew, with new and improved Precision Blend Natural For Grey Blending Hair Color. Customisable for stylists natural grey cover, there are four tones and looking to results last up to four weeks. deliver luxury, Takara Belmont’s In-salon service RS Axis is like your 020 7391 7440 favourite styling chair – revlonproshop.com at the backwash.

£3,500 +VAT 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk 70

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Rino Riccio 72

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CUT TECHNICALLY, STYLE NATURALLY THAT’S THE MANIFESTO MANTRA, AND ONE THAT ITS HEAD OF EDUCATION, RINO RICCIO, UTTERLY BELIEVES IN. IT’S FUNDAMENTAL TO THE WORK THAT HELPED HIM SCOOP MOST WANTED MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST 2021... RINO RICCIO CAN pinpoint the moment his love of hairdressing began. Aged 12 and still based in his native Italy, he accompanied his father, a barber, to a live hairdressing competition. It’s a bittersweet memory for him as he has sadly lost his father a few months ago, whom he describes as “a wonderful man, my mentor, my friend, my number one fan”. His father didn’t get to see his son take to the stage to accept the Most Wanted Men’s Hair Specialist trophy: “To be honoured with such an accolade has overwhelmed me. It’s so very important to bring the award back to my fabulous team at Manifesto who have supported my ambition throughout. And on a personal note, for my late father, too. Without his early tuition and interest in my career path I wouldn’t be a hint of who I am today.” Being taken under his father’s “very big wing”, Rino started training at 14 and, just two short years later, was winning major competitions throughout Italy. Moving to the UK and taking all the premium education he could find – Sassoon, Toni&Guy, HOB Academy – kicking off “an unquenchable thirst for knowledge”. His move to the UK also introduced him to session styling, and boy did it open his eyes. “I fell in love with the incredible buzz and the pace of working backstage at fashion shows. Initially, hand on heart, I have to say it was a total shock to the system – everything I had previously learnt had to be done differently,” he laughs. “But here I was, breaking every rule I had ingrained on my being… and loving every minute!” In the middle of this buzz backstage at a Vivienne Westwood show he met Mikey Pearson, who later invited Rino to meet his fellow Manifesto director, Corrado Tevere. An invitation was extended to join the progressive men’s grooming

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brand as its head of education. “This opportunity ticked every box for me – I love the stability, creativity and pure soul of being part of a team,” he says. “Manifesto is a perfect fit, the ethos of the brand is to combine technical haircutting skills with session styling techniques. ‘Cut technically, style naturally’, is the Manifesto mantra and it’s one I totally believe in.” It’s a busy role; he runs a regular column, dividing his time between the Leather Lane, Holborn and Kings Cross Manifesto salons. He helps devise and deliver education not only to the brand’s own team but also to an international audience (it’s available currently in English and Japanese) and he also continues to work backstage on major fashion shows and shoots. His style is deliberately different, possibly down to that session experience. “Prior to lockdown, many of the men’s hair looks being created were very similar, all very sharp and short. I wanted to create something softer,” he explains. Italian eco favourite Davines saw some of these softer finishes and reached out, with the Manifesto team subsequently appointed as men’s hair educators, and Rino devising dedicated training for its hairdressers in the UK and Ireland. Within two months of launch, all eight courses had sold out. The technical ability and unique vision that so impressed Davines is clear to see in photographic work for labels such as Diesel in i-D, and also within an authentic take on the Mod aesthetic inspired by the film Quadrophenia, shot in Brighton as a collaboration with two friends. To describe it as raw would be an understatement – hair was cut and styled in a pub toilet. But it was so impressive that iconic Mod fashion-favourite Ben Sherman approached the team to use one of the images in its own social media. Testament to the relevancy of Mr Riccio’s softer, session-led eye for finishing. Surely, a new manifesto for modern men’s hair…

17/09/2021 11:50

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE

COLOUR

EVENTS

INSPIRATION

FREELANCERS

STORE

COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

Featuring the laid-back vibes of a sundowner soiree, ‘Aretê’ by Matt Dryden and Joshua O’Callaghan pairs understated looks with ice-cool ’80s styling

GLASGOW

Glasgow, are you ready? The Coterie is coming to town on 25 October, throwing the spotlight on some local (and award-winning!) salon and session legends

creativeheadmag.com

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Thrills on wheels! We took a trip to the skatepark with Syd Hayes, BaByliss PRO and some rollers and riders to celebrate the styling freedom the brand’s latest launch offers

creativeheadmagofficial

Introducing Activator, a new FREE mentoring scheme to help hair business owners at any stage of their career. 21 industry experts are on board and applications are open until 15 October

@creativeheadmag

20/09/2021 11:18

#Christmas

Make your presents known The festive season offers an opportunity for tills to start ringing in the New Year and help plug those lockdown cashflow gaps, so it’s time to get organised NOW. Let us help plan your yuletide strategy…

Party down EVEN WITH VACCINATIONS and Covid passes, Christmas 2021 is still going to be a nervous affair for some of your clients. Obvious efforts to keep guests feeling safe in your space will always go a long way. People want to enjoy the season and to be able to dress up, feel beautiful – and feel safe. One brilliant option is to look outside the walls of the salon itself. Mark McCarthy, owner of MARKDAVID (pictured above), decided to hold a Christmas market last year as a way of reaching out to old and new customers with Christmasthemed retail goodies, as well as seasonal flowers from a local florist. The decoration continued right through to the inside of the salon as well, with the stunning décor perfect for catching attention and curiosity. Alongside the local florist, Mark set up the market with local candle makers to showcase products, CREATIVE HEAD

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including gift sets from salon brands. If you’re able to utilise outside spaces at all, go for it – clients and inquisitive locals can enjoy a warming drink outside the salon before you tempt them in. “We ran an in-salon advent calendar lucky dip, where we had a great selection of prizes on offer including vouchers for cut and blow-drys, gel manicures and lots of hair goodies.” The proceeds from the calendar went to Social Bite, an Edinburgh-based charity that provides accommodation, support, food and essentials packs to the homeless. “When thinking of Christmas events in the salon, the main aim is for us to ensure our clients and team feel as safe as possible,” Mark adds. Space, and the clear placement of plentiful sanitiser, are two lynchpins in his methods of helping clients and staff feel comfortable and cared for. The option of booking out your salon, or specific rooms, 75

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Callum Standen-May

#Christmas for a large party are also a great option for those who may be nervous about over-mingling in winter. It means they can relax, and you can guarantee a group booking to keep your staff busy – just be sure to take a deposit!

A Helping hand Prep work and planning are crucial for a smooth-running Christmas period. You’ll need to have your whole team plugged in and engaged, as it’s inevitably all hands on deck. Karen Thompson, owner of KAM Hair and Body Spa, has a multi-pronged approach when it comes to prepping for the Christmas rush, utilising a mix of digital and traditional marketing methods. “We have also been giving clients a courtesy call to confirm appointments, which is really appreciated, particularly among older clients who may not receive email and text reminders,” she says. Weekly and fortnightly emails also keep clients informed of party packages and Christmas gift options to tempt their fancy. “A lot of clients have been stretching out their return cycles,” says Gary Wilde, owner of Wilde About Hair. “It’s important to start reminding them to book in early and think ahead, it creates a bit of urgency. We’re sending out texts via Slick salon software to encourage people to book in – we’ve found texts to be far more effective than email. It might cost you £100 for the text campaign but you’re getting something in the region of £3,500 back, so it’s worth it.” Gary’s also implemented deposits to help knock noshows on the head almost entirely. To keep things running smoothly, set aside time each morning or evening to conduct virtual consultations for upcoming appointments. It will also help rotas, stock planning, and time management. Rather than having clients popping in and out of the salon for consultations and disrupting the flow of the day, set aside specific times to schedule these and keep you focused. Phil Jackson, salon owner and founder of buildyoursalon.com, is a huge fan of this feature: “Virtual consultations are a brilliant way to build rapport with new potential clients, but can also help take away some of the Christmas insanity, too,” he explains. “A great virtual consultation makes sure that your clients get booked in for the correct service; we’ve all been there with a tint-regrowth booking and the client is expecting a balayage. The in-salon consultation is then just confirming details from your previous 76

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chat, which saves precious in-chair time.” “Don’t feel your consultations have to be free,” he adds. “Giving it value reduces no-shows and time-wasters. Have a value on your price card, and if you do give it away, make sure the client knows its worth.” Alternatively, you can knock the cost off the final bill if they do go ahead and book.

Service Charge Party packages are always a huge revenue driver, but they don’t need to break the bank. Think ‘The Lipstick Effect’ – small additions and mood-boosters that are a great way to add profit without phasing clients. Treatments are more popular than ever during festive months, with clients looking to keep their hair in the best condition and full of shine, willing to splurge when they wouldn’t normally. Callum StandenMay is pinning this upsell to cult favourite Olaplex treatments in his salon in Norwich, with the stipulation that a blow-dry, cut or colour treatment is required to be booked to accompany the conditioning treatment. Christmas packages also make ideal pampering gifts, for those who love experiences rather than physical presents, or are awkward to buy for. “Clients are consistently looking for more sensorial, unique gifts,” explains Elena Lavagni, owner of Neville Hair & Beauty in London. “We have come up with three unique packages for Christmas to sell through Cosa Porto, a gifting platform that collects and delivers the package to your loved one’s door.” “We should be diversifying the hair treatment list, as treatments are the base of good hair and the perfect opportunity to upsell every time,” Elena adds. “By offering a seasonal service menu you can almost guarantee a good return and, most importantly, happy clients.”

Party-perfect Alongside its seasonal wish list of gifting products, ghd has created a lookbook ideal for clients and their Christmas parties. Most importantly, the looks have been designed to be simple enough for clients to create them at home as well. So you can jazz up their ’do, show them how, and then they can buy the tools from you. With six styles to choose from, clients will be wanting to catch ’em all.

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GOT A PROBLEM? GET FIXED IN A FLASH WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM SLICK. HERE’S…

NO-SHOWS AND LATE CANCELLATIONS

LET’S FACE IT, 2021 will be remembered for many things, but for salon owners it’s clear: 2021 is the year of the no-show and lastminute cancellation! A salon owner’s currency is bookings. If someone cancels at the last minute or doesn’t turn up, then this is at least £60 that is lost, as often there’s no time to ﬁll the space. Spend ﬁve minutes doing this exercise: Take your average bill and multiply that by the number of last-minute cancellations you typically get in a week. The number will probably shock you. One salon we spoke to had more than £50,000 of last-minute cancellations in the past 12 months before it moved to Slick. Slick has made requesting a holding fee an easy, stress-free process both in-salon or online. Salon managers now send a text message with a secure link for their client to pay the fee straight from their mobile. The online booking system can also be set to take payments automatically. Easy! At Christmas it is crucial that no-shows don’t ruin your busy season. Here are three top tips to say goodbye to last-minute cancellations: SHARE A CLEAR CANCELLATION POLICY: make sure this is clearly displayed on your website, salon price list and your social media TAKE A DEPOSIT: Slick has seen a 400 per cent increase in salons taking holding fees, while salons taking one have enjoyed a 98 per cent reduction in last-minute cancellations! BE TOUGH BUT FAIR: if there are good reasons for a client cancelling then be understanding. If they have no good reason then protect your business and charge a fee

HOW SLICK FIXED IT AMY PEARCE MERAKI HAIR STUDIO

“We joined Slick in October 2020. The system we had before had no deposit button, no text reminders… I was never satisfied, so it was a no-brainer to move. Now, if anyone books online the system asks the client to pay a 50 per cent deposit to secure that spot. It makes it clear: if you don’t pay, you don’t get the appointment. I then get an alert, so I can keep track too, it shows you when you’re earning money. The system adds credit to the client’s account, and it gets taken off their bill. For phone bookings the system sends the client a link when they book. Click on it and they can pay their deposit safely and it saves us the awkward phone call asking for card details – it’s much more professional. “We’ve put it on social media, it’s very clear, and we’ve had no gripes from clients. It’s a real deterrent for time wasters. In a six-month period before Slick, we had loads of no-shows. Since the new system, we’ve only had 12 since December, and we’ve been able to charge them. I know there’s a stigma, that salons don’t like to do it. But noshows can knock a stylist’s confidence – especially younger staff – as well as targets. Right now, Christmas appointments are like gold dust, and this way you can offer them to your most loyal clients. My advice? Know your worth and charge accordingly.”

WHAT YOU CAN DO NOW

START TAKING DEPOSITS FOR ALL COLOUR SERVICES – SLICK CAN SEND AN SMS WITH A LINK TO PAY, MAKING IT SUPER-SIMPLE FOR YOU AND CLIENTS! MAKE NO-SHOWS HISTORY! TALK TO THE TEAM AT SLICK ON 01202 286 005, EMAIL INFO@GETSLICK.COM OR VISIT GETSLICK.COM/CREATIVE-HEAD TO SIGN UP OR BOOK A DEMO CREATIVE HEAD

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21/09/2021 15:32

#Christmas

The Wish List

Whether your clients have been naughty or nice when looking after their hair, all is forgiven at this time of year. Treat them to these stellar gift sets for a brighter 2022

Indulge your eco-conscious clients with two kits from weDO/ Professional. The 24/7 kit has everything for daily care, including Moisturising Day and Night Creams and the Detangling Spray. wedoact.com

Deliver gleaming hair with the Semi Di Lino Iconic Collection by ALFAPARF Milano, featuring six carefully curated gift boxes. alfaparfmilano.com

Schwarzkopf Professional has a broad range of Christmas gifts ideal for personalising per hair type. Clients can choose from Christmas kits in the BlondMe, BC Bonacure and Fibre Clinix ranges for that bespoke touch. schwarzkopfpro.com

Let 2022 be the year of freedom for clients, with the introduction of the BaByliss Cordless Hot Brush. Need some lift? No problem. A smooth mover? You bet. It’s the perfect tool to have on hand. babyliss.co.uk

There’s a festive feast for the eyes from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, with four luxurious Serie Expert gift sets and a smattering of stocking fillers available. lorealpartnershop.com/uk

Is it truly Christmas without ghd? This year’s limited edition sets are cast in pretty pewter and housed in luxurious emerald velvet cases. From a styling spray and scrunchie combo through to a platinum+ and helios pairing, there’s something for everyone. ghdhair.com 78

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The Gift Collection from AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT offers a lasting moment of relaxation. The 100 per cent organic cotton bags contain a full-sized cleanser and conditioner or mask, and the new Hand and Hair Light Cream. authenticbeautyconcept.co.uk

Aveda has teamed up with fashion designer Phillip Lim for a selection of beautifully illustrated product gift sets. aveda.co.uk

Treat clients’ tresses to one of six holiday gift sets from Bumble and bumble. Not only do they contain everything they’ll need for gloriously glossy and cared-for hair, but each set features Holiday Hair Hacks on the box. bumbleandbumble.co.uk

There’s plenty to celebrate this Christmas with seven gift sets from Matrix. Each set, from Always Voluminous to Blonde With Confidence, contains a mix of hero products to care, treat and style. matrixhaircare.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2021 16:09

SCAN FOR INFO

AVAILABLE NATIONWIDE FROM NOVEMBER 2021

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INSPIRED BY A VIBRANT, MODERN-DAY VIEW OF PUNK THAT’S INTRINSIC TO ‘80S SUBCULTURE BUFFALO, ‘LOVER THEY’ IS PROJECT X’S CELEBRATION OF UNITY THROUGH DIVERSITY AND INCLUSION. WELCOME TO A MELTING POT OF CULTURES THAT BLURS THE LINES OF HISTORICAL LABELS PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN HARDS CREATIVE HEAD

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SEE MORE of the shoot online at creativeheadmag.com

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HAIR Project X 2021: Kay Binnersley, Kay Binnersley Hair; Roisin Murphy, KH Hair; Lea Shaw, Rural Fringe Hair Salon; CC McNamee, Andrew Smith Salons Fareham; Pamela Cooney, Toni&Guy Cannon Street; April Mash, Strangeways; Emma Simmons, Salon 54; Nicola Hamm, Escape Hair Lounge; Thomas Worth, Tint; Arif Arikan, Alice and the Hair; Reina Boddy, Joseph Ferraro Hair; using KMS and Goldwell. ART DIRECTION Sam Burnett. STYLING Masha Mombellie. MAKE-UP Coco Hirani. SPONSOR KAO Salon Division.

TEN FOLD

THE TEN FACES OF BIANCA EXPLORES THE POWER OF WEARING DIFFERENT PERSONALITIES WHILE REMAINING TRUE TO THE SELF, WITH LINUS JOHANSSON EXPERIMENTING WITH CUTS, STYLING AND WIGS TO BRING THE CHARACTERS TO LIFE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DASZA WASIAK 84

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SEE MORE of the shoot online at creativeheadmag.com

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21/09/2021 16:11

HAIR Linus Johansson (@hairbylinus). PHOTOGRAPHY AND RETOUCHING Dasza Wasiak (@daszawasiak). ART DIRECTION AND STYLING Olga Kasma (@kasmaolga). MAKE-UP Rachel Shepherd (@rachelshepherdmua). MODEL Bianca Huisman at Premier Models (@bianca_huisman, @premiermodels)

French choco-g old bob using @loreal pro 6. 35 Dia Richesse, insane cut by my girl @crisdoeshair

Y eah you got that hon ey, hon ey, hon ey bron de. Cut by Rox ann a @ha rish air

If only there were two of me for the Christm as rush! Behind the scenes from our creative shoot

In the

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frame

Lockdown Inspo 2021

Francesca Dixon (@fdhair), balayage specialist at Chelsea favourite Hari’s, snaps away SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

My tips for foolproo f colour @wome nsownm agazin e, thank you @lydia-house

Throwback to a shoot whe re @infern olad-darron-harrold and me were bein g the drea m tea m 86

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Balaya ge by me, cut by @sonni e-scissor-hands, toning with Dia Light

B R U N E T T E B A E. The lovely @gabri ellebassett, cut by @christ iemari eexo, colour Dia Richesse

Bleach and tone for a shoot using @loreal pro Blond Studio 9 CREATIVE HEAD

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[ Dia light ]

Our unique acidic gel-cream1 technology for a personalised glossy finish.

Neutralises undertones, revives colour and provides up to 30% more conditioned hair.* Recyclable tube made of 95% recycled aluminium. Buy now at L’Oréal Partnershop.

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By L’Oréal Professionel. *After Dia light application on bleached hair.

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03/09/2021 9:04 am