Creative HEAD UK October 2023

I feel LOVE

NIGHT FEVER

Studio 54 has become the stuff of legend. The birthplace of celebrity culture, a theatrical den of glamour and excess, an escape from the mundane, Studio 54 was a place where the party never stopped, where creativity and expression met the intoxicating thrill of possibility, all soundtracked by the sexy, joyful rhythms of disco.

To mark the launch of the innovative new Falco dryer from BaByliss PRO – and to showcase the diversity of looks its portfolio of power tools can help you create – Michelle Sultan, BaByliss PRO ambassador, partnered with Creative HEAD in a heady trip back to perhaps the most iconic night club of all time, the church of disco itself, Studio 54.

“This is the era that I love the most,” she explains. “It was so glamorous and cool, nothing was overly contrived. It was just really sexy, a time when people were owning who they were. And it was unapologetic, there were no boundaries when it came to your look. It was a beginning of the era where we were able to express ourselves. And Studio 54 is a symbol of all that.”

The velvet rope has been pulled back, just for you – come on inside. Don’t stop ’til you get enough…

Pictured from left: Harmony wears dress by Azzi & Osta, rings by Misho; Tenika wears dress by Philipp Plein; Akuac wears dress by Azzi & Osta, earrings by Saad Collection; Janna wears dress by Self-Portrait, earrings by Saad Collection.

LAST NIGHT A DJ SAVED MY LIFE

For a sweet, brief, shiny time in the late ’70s, there was a glamorous, exclusive refuge from the grime and grief of New York City. Hundreds of people jostled outside a former Broadway theatre in midtown Manhattan in the hopes of capturing the eye of Steve Rubell, the co-owner of legendary nightclub Studio 54, and winning his approval to gain entry to the globe’s hottest venue. If you didn’t have that certain je ne sais quoi, you stayed out on the street. Inside, citizens of the five boroughs rubbed shoulders with the decade’s A-list elite – think Bianca Jagger, Halston, Andy Warhol, Liza Minnelli – while being lapped by a roller-skating pensioner. This was the spiritual home of the soundtrack of the time – D-I-S-C-O – and both the music and the venue offered a retreat without boundaries. Disco was bold, hypnotic, overwhelming, certainly not to everyone’s tastes. But it was freedom, a chance to express yourself through your personal style, from vertiginous Afros to hip-skating smooth lengths. It was a place where any gender, any race, any class, any one could call home as the sun went down… The dancefloor became a place of worship – a place to love, to commune. It made that dreary week of nine-to-fives worth it for those fleeting, snatched hours when the loud, pulsing music was everything, a euphoria captured and shared with every other human in those sweaty, sultry mirrored walls. No inhibitions, no judgment, no barriers – you’re truly staying alive, until Sunday morning rolls around again…

Both a guest on the Studio 54 dancefloor and a performer, Grace Jones had a style and an attitude like no other – confrontational, unapologetic, raw. A perfect source of inspiration for this look. “This shoot is all about imagining a modernday version of Studio 54. We just love the idea of the contrast of the cut and the colour. Think of Studio 54, it’s all about being iconic, looking strong,” explains Michelle. Clippered to a level 1.5 with tighter edges, with the BaByliss PRO Cordless Rose Gold Super Motor Clippers, this is a boundarypushing finish.

THE STARS OF THE STUDIO

The genesis of the modern-day culture of celebrity, Studio 54 played host to the brightest stars of the disco era

Akuac wears dress by Azzi & Osta, necklace by Dosis gbc.

Every night at Studio 54 provided something unexpected, something you wouldn’t see elsewhere. That’s what this platinum blonde mullet encapsulates. “I wanted to go for something exaggerated, a mullet but really extreme,” explains Michelle. “We’re making this Barbie really obnoxious. She does not care!”

Tenika wears dress as before, rings by Dosis gbc, heels stylist’s own.

Reportage photography: Harvey Williams-Fairley

Pictured from left: Akuac jumpsuit by Karen Millen, rings by Dosis gbc; Harmony wears dress by AMYLYNN, rings by Misho.

She may have entered the club on the arm of Bryan Ferry or Mick Jagger, but make no mistake who was the centre of attention. Once on the dancefloor, Jerry Hall was the supermodel star of Studio 54 and her bountiful waves, tossed nonchalantly along to the blinding beats, inspired this look. Prepped in braids to add a foundation of kink, here the hair was sectioned and waved further with the BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Deep Waver for even more. “I want this hair to be unstructured, fluffy, beautiful, soft, but also defined waves,” says Michelle. “Running some serum along means when those neon lights bounce off of her hair, it looks incredible!”

If one artist was synonymous with disco, it would be Donna Summer, with those high cheekbones kissed by her coils and kinks as she sung Love to Love You Baby. The key to a gorgeous curly look with a nod to Donna? Using a variety of tong sizes (thank you BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Curling Tongs in 19mm, 25mm and 32mm) as hair never has just one sized curl. A little blow-dry with the new BaByliss PRO Falco and its diffuser to add size before identifying individual curls to work out with fingers, et voila!

Janna wears dress by Agro Studio.

Who hasn’t been pestered by that guy, when all you want to do is look good on the dancefloor, baby. Michelle Pfieffer’s Elvira in the epic film Scarface just wants to get her groove on, but Al Pacino’s Tony Montana has been mesmerised by her ice-cold beauty. The secret to this style nod? That bevelled bob, swinging seductively to the music. Ms Sultan nailed that gleaming shine and the beautiful bevel with the BaByliss PRO Prima 3100 Slim Titanium straightener…

Tenika wears dress by AMYLYNN.

As the night at Studio 54 ended, Cher’s disco anthem pleaded Take Me Home – no celebration of this moment in pop culture would be complete without her legendary lengths. Starting with waves, Michelle created a chic, sleek, glossy goddess reminiscent of Cher thanks to the new BaByliss PRO innovation, Falco, and its pik attachment. “It’s like a knife through butter, gliding through and smoothing the hair,” gasps Michelle. Then an extra layer of shine, courtesy of the BaByliss PRO Prima 3100 Slim Titanium straightener. Fit for a diva, indeed.

Harmony wears dress as before, earrings by Saad Collection.

THE LAST DAYS OF DISCO

“It’s disco, it’s the ’70s, so it’d be rude not to make a big Afro,” laughs Michelle. One of the looks of the era, Michelle wanted to make it more, more, more (that’s how she likes it). “It was really important to showcase as much texture in this shoot as possible,” she says, “and to be able to work with lots of different textures.” Michelle’s team gave it all the extra, building this XXL circular Afro with a base of six individual wigs. Then they had a little fun, carving freehand into the shape and adding some angles using the BaByliss PRO Cordless Rose Gold Super Motor Clippers without a guard. Ooh, we feel like dancing…

54 ACreativeHEADshoot,in partnershipwithBaBylissPRO HAIRASSISTEDMICHELLESULTAN,BYSIMONECHARLES, DEENFASHOLAANDSCHOLAROSE. PHOTOGRAPHYMAKIYOLIO, ASSISTEDBYJANSTASIUK. REPORTAGEPHOTOGRAPHY HARVEYWILLIAMS-FAIRLEY. MAKE-UPLANNGUYEN-GREALIS,ASSISTEDBYYONGCHIN. FASHIONANASTASIABUSCH, ASSISTEDBYCHARLYSMITHBALL. PRODUCTIONJOANNAANDERSENAND JENNYBROOKS,THECREATIVEHEAD CREATIVEPARTNERSHIPSTEAM. EDITORIALAMANDANOTTAGE ANDANNIEMAYBYRNENOONAN. SOCIALMEDIAKELSEYDRINGANDAOIFECONNELL. VIDEOGRAPHYAUSTENKILLINGBECKJONESANDJOEBIDMEAD,FRIDAYSKY. MODELSAKUAC@NEVS, TENIKA@WMODELS,HARMONYAND JANNAD@DUOMODELMANAGEMENT SHOTONLOCATIONATMETROPOLIS.

Creative director at London’s iconic Hype Coiffure salon – where she’s been for 25 years – Michelle brought along Simone Charles, Deen Fashola and Schola Rose from the salon to bring her disco concept to life. “I wanted to give them the opportunity to come and express themselves, have some fun. I love them, we’re one big family at Hype – to be able to give them this opportunity is special to me. They deserve it!”

“The beauty of the Falco’s pik comb attachment is being able to make every texture – especially tight textures –more pliable. It’s incredible, I’ve been waiting for this!”

“Studio 54 and the disco era was about expression, and included everything we’ve done here – from clipper cuts to Afros; short, sharp cuts to really soft, sexy texture. There were no set rules. Everything was fluid and carefree”

Disco is…

“Sexy, strong, carefree, fun. Shiny, shiny, shiny!”

TO SEE THE CLUB COME TO LIFE WITH EXTRA LOOKS AND VIDEOS – AND TO HEAR MORE FROM MICHELLE AND HER TEAM – HEAD TO CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM AND @CREATIVEHEADMAG

Michelle Sultan

GET FLY AS YOU DRY

Find

your style groove with Falco, the quietest dryer you’ve ever seen from BaByliss PRO

‘Meet me on the dance floor’ attitude with hair that sways, bounces and shines as brightly as any disco ball – that’s the goal for stylists when finishing off a client’s hair, whether that’s on the salon floor or on a shoot or show. To guarantee that greatness, it’s what you have in your hand that counts…

Love the pulse of a salon or backstage on a shoot when the tunes are jumping and the conversation is flowing? Of course… but what you don’t want is the competition from the roar of the dryer. Introducing Falco, the new reimagined hairdryer from BaByliss PRO. The brand’s exciting new dryer has been created to deliver a more enjoyable drying experience. That means noise is less audible as it’s engineered to minimise the sound level, making it BaByliss PRO’s quietest dryer ever. But that’s only the start of this story… advanced performance is built-in too, via a high-speed digital motor, delivering a faster and more streamlined airflow. Its precise heat control offers three temperatures as well as three speed settings, keeping you in control, always.

And that control is taken to the next level with its complete styling solutions that deliver precision as you dry. Two air concentrating nozzles in different sizes allow for easy and accurate blow-drying, while the diffuser attachment offers advanced air flow for drying and styling wavy, coily and curly hair minus the frizz but with all the desired definition. There’s even more to tempt those styling textured hair, with an extra pik attachment available separately to lift, stretch and smooth textured strands.

All this is designed with professionals in mind. Its super-lightweight, compact and ergonomic shape gives you a well-balanced grip with intuitive controls to minimise arm ache. It might be light, but it’s built to last, durable for busy salon and backstage environments. And thanks to its magnetic rear filter that’s easily cleaned or replaced, your tool keeps going for longer. Falco is literally designed to make drying and styling fun and creative while ensuring hair looks fabulously flawless, every time.

Find your best-ever drying and styling groove with the innovative new Falco from BaByliss PRO.

Visit babyliss.com for more

“This is amazing! Sometimes you need to shout over a hairdryer to be heard – with the Falco, I can talk at a normal level. It’s super lightweight, too” Michelle Sultan, BaByliss PRO ambassador

SUBSCRIBE NOW TO CREATIVE HEAD

Be among the first 10 new subscribers to Creative HEAD and receive hot drops from the My Hair. My Canvas. Textures & Curls collection from Alterna, including its Begin Again Curl Cleanser, Begin Again Curl Conditioner and My Way Curl Defining Gel, for free!

The Texture & Curls line from My Hair. My Canvas. is a collection of high-performance products created by luxury haircare brand Alterna to make waves, coils and curls sing in the salon and at home, thanks to its silicone-free and vegan formulas, giving vitality to lacklustre curls.

Already a Creative HEAD subscriber? Then we’ve got a special treat for you too! One lucky subscriber will win the full Textures & Curls collection from My Hair. My Canvas., worth £116, which includes Begin Again Curl Cleanser, Begin Again Curl Conditioner, Loosen Up Curl Elongator, More Butter Curl Masque and My Way Curl Defining Gel.

For more information visit alternadirect.co.uk

*For the first 10 new subscribers to sign up between 1 October and 31 October 2023. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered.

You asked for quiet, we listened.

We took time talking to professionals to help create the ultimate dryer. Experience exceptional speed and style with BaBylissPRO Falco. Engineered to be 2 x quieter and with a brilliantly lightweight design for easy handling. Powered by an advanced digital motor for a stronger, faster, more precise air flow. With a large newly designed diffuser for optimal frizz-controlled drying of wavy, curly and coily hair, and two slim concentrator nozzles, Falco is perfect for all your hair work. So whatever look you’re creating, experience superior drying designed for professionals.

JACK MEAD X

JACK MEAD, SALON OWNER & EDUCATOR

“It’s more than just a scheduling tool – it’s a full business management solution – at my fingertips, wherever I am, 24 hours a day.”

EVOLUTION OF THE COLOR JUST GOT BETTER. THE ICONIC FORMULA FEATURES:

COLOUR PERFECTION: 100% grey hair coverage with 4 Natural series

Up to 3 levels of lightening

With hyaluronic acid Free from PPD

Our formula is free from ingredients of animal origin or derivation

40% Hair is up to more resistant to breakage*

*caused by repeated combing. Test carried out compared with untreated bleached hair.

NOW ENHANCED WITH AN INNOVATIVE PATENTED TECHNOLOGY AND A COMPREHENSIVE COLOUR PROTECTION SYSTEM, FOR UNPRECEDENTED PERFORMANCE.

PATENTED COLOR GUARD TECHNOLOGY: for the protection of intensity and duration of the colour

BONDING PERFORMANCE: protects hair during the colour process for hair more resistant to breakage

BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION: protects the colour from blue-light damage

BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION

ANTI-POLLUTION

ANTI-POLLUTION: to counteract the unwanted effects of pollution

UV PROTECTION SYSTEM: to counteract UV light-induced colour loss. For an even longerlasting and shinier colour result

INNOVATION IS IN OUR DNA

119 shades of perfection

EDITOR’S LETTER 28

JOIN US!

Legend – it’s a title that should be used sparingly, savoured, to capture the immense impact and stature of someone. At the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final this year, Eugene Souleiman was one of four who were bestowed the title of Legend, and his is one of those names that’s talked about with absolute reverence. It’s clear why when you absorb our exclusive conversation with him, from page 38. The way he approaches ideas is fascinating, as is the tale of his love of pimping up bikes with his mates as a kid. Our cover shoot this issue also pays homage to somewhere truly legendary – Studio 54 – and the fashion and celebrity A-list that graced its dance floor. You might not be a fan of disco – although that notion is simply unfathomable to me

but you can’t deny its cultural significance. Michelle Sultan and her squad, in partnership with BaByliss PRO and the Creative HEAD Partnerships Team, capture that in exhilarating fashion across those decadent pages. Plug in to our Spotify playlist and savour every single moment…

Editorial dir

Oh, what a gathering MWIT was! The Grand Final of Creative HEAD’s 2023 Most Wanted and It List Awards lit up Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall, and we’ve marked the occasion with a souvenir supplement –FREE with this issue, enjoy! Self-employed stylists, keep 29 October free in your diary for our next Self/Styled Sundays virtual event. Tune in to watch and learn from artists including Jordanna Cobella and Abbey and Andy Smith, see page 60 for details. Finally, tickets are on sale for The Coterie in London on 20 November. Join us for drinks and conversation with hair and fashion collaborators including Laura Chadwick, Adam Garland and It List 2023 winner, Darcie Harvey. See page 57 for more info.

creativeheadmag.com/events

WHAT’S INSIDE

OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

ANNIE MAY BYRNE NOONAN

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ADAM WOOD

DIGITAL DESIGNER EVA VESTMANN

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT AOIFE CONNELL

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

KELSEY DRING

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

LAURA TUCKER

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER

JENNY BROOKS

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

SOPHIA HILTON, NOT ANOTHER LUKE HERSHESON, HERSHESONS

KAYE SOTOMI, CHOP CHOP LONDON JORDANNA COBELLA, COBELLA

FRAZER WALLACE, HAUS STUDIO ASHLEIGH HODGES, HAIRDOTCOM

LUKE PLUCKROSE, SAKS CLAIRE MARTIN, CLHAIR

LEAH HAYDEN CASSIDY, UNIT8 ROB WHITE & LEE NASH-JONES, NASHWHITE

IN THE KNOW

IN THE KNOW

A SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIALS

Type 4 hair clients pay 43 per cent more in salon

Customers with Type 4 hair pay an average of 43 per cent more for the same service as those with Type 1 straight hair, according to a new report by Ripe Hair & Beauty Insurance.

The report surveyed an ethnically diverse group of more than 2,113 UK residents, and its findings highlighted inequalities in cost between different hair types accessing the same services – a ‘texture tax’.

An average appointment consisting of a cut, style, colour, and treatment usually costs someone with Type 4/Afro hair £68.19 more than straight-haired counterparts – that’s £225.13 compared with £156.94. Based on an average of three hair appointments per year, Type 4 hair clients pay an extra £204.57, which amounts to a further £12,683.34 over a lifetime period.

Clients with Afro hair also travel twice as far for appointments compared with those with straight hair, due to a lack of adequate services nearer to home.

Vicky Agbozo, who owns Diversa in Newton-le-Willows in Merseyside, a hair salon specialising in Afro-European hair, said: “Previously, I’d be so desperate for a certain product or service that I’d get three buses to Liverpool or Manchester to get hold of them. It’s not right that people with my hair type have to travel so far.”

REGENERATION TOUR GETS CREATIVE

TOM CONNELL AND The Hair Bros wowed audiences in London and Manchester as the Davines Regeneration Hair Tour hit the road. The event was a showcase of artistry from across the Davines family, and also made stops in Dublin and Belfast. The London night, held at Alva Coachworks in front of a nearly 400 strong crowd, opened with a presentation from Allilon – the education arm of Most Wanted Best Salon Team winner, Ena – which shared its Perception collection (see page 64). Taylor Taylor London, Manifesto’s Rino Riccio and a showcase of emerging talent, including Marc Trinder and Nashwhite’s James Parr, kept the creativity moving before The Hair Bros delivered a fresh take on wearable, everyday hair. The night climaxed with Davines hair art director, Tom Connell, keeping the crowd rapt with a diverse mix of his most recent work, from coloured hair wraps to beautiful and unexpected moments captured during the genesis of a long-to-short haircut.

BOOK IT!

THE SECRETS OF PROFITABLE SALONS –WITH ALFAPARF MILANO PROFESSIONAL Paul Dennison is the new ELEVEN Australia brand artist! His first task?

Joining Conor James Doyle, Jo Dyer, and Melvin Royce Lane in Manchester this month for the One Day, Four Superstars event! For details, follow @elevenaustraliapro_uk

PROFIT IS the path to a successful business, especially when things get tough. But making real profit that goes beyond a salon owner’s salary requires a strategy, and one that works! Join Alan Austin-Smith in this Xpert Professional course as he shares the key steps of that strategy to set yourself, and your salon, up for success.

WHEN AND WHERE: 14 November, London BOOK: accademia.ie

Tom Connell

Everybody’s talking about…

SELF STYLED/ SUNDAYSSUNDAYS

As the Christmas season approaches, getting the latest techniques under your belt will ensure clients leave thrilled. The latest SELF/STYLED Sunday – Creative HEAD’s free online event providing top education and business-building advice for freelancers – is here to help. The next session on 29 October is getting seasonal, with A/W colour inspiration aplenty. Jordanna Cobella, Wella Professionals UK & Ireland colour and trends ambassador, is on hand to share her colour blocking skills – one of the biggest trends to monetise. Need some guidance on transformations for Christmas? We’ve got the dynamic duo of Andy and Abbey Smith, Indola ambassadors, to arm you with what you need. Sign up for a free place at creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled or turn to page 60 for more information

KEUNE BECOMES A B CORP GREEN LIGHT

If you’re serious about sustainability, then securing B Corp certification can be a crucial aim… and Keune has got there. That means the brand has reached high standards of social and environmental performance, public transparency and legal accountability in its business processes. In the certification, the firm scored well in the ‘Environment’ category – thanks to its use of solar panels, electric company cars, and compensation of emissions – as well as for its ‘Supply Chain Management’ and ‘Packaging and Materials’. Oh, and it hit an excellent rating in the ‘Employee Health, Wellness, and Safety’ category, too. Inspiring.

STMNT launches style contest

STMNT GROOMING is launching a new styling competition to showcase the skills of barbers and short hair specialists. Share your STMNT looks on Instagram and TikTok using #styledwithstmnt and #makeyourstmnt, tagging @stmntgrooming and submitting before 30 November. STMNT creators (pictured above, from left) Julius Cvesar, Staygold, and Nomad Barber will be on judging duty, with winners revealed in February 2024.

As the sunshine recedes and we spend more time inside, it can be easy to miss out on that all-important vitamin D. Grab BetterYou D3000 Vitamin D Daily Oral Spray to top up what you’re lacking. It’s a quick peppermint spritz that’s absorbed in a jiffy. Sunshine in a spray to help keep those colds (hopefully) at bay. £9.45, hollandandbarrett.com

First ambassadors for Remi Cachet

The November Collective’s Christopher Laird, SH.Hair.NE’s Stephen Hopper, and Alex Ferris of AF Hair Extensions have been unveiled as the first brand ambassadors for extensions experts Remi Cachet. They will work closely on projects such as the creative process of new products and launches, and on education and training for other stylists.

Pictured, from left: Jordanna Cobella, Andy Smith and Abbey Smith

SEE IT!

Gucci Cosmos

THIS EXHIBITION of the world of Gucci is enjoying a global tour, finally landing at London’s 180 Studios to share a tribute to the label’s 100-plus years of design. Rooms will focus on various elements of the brand, exploring both muses and the work of creative directors including Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele. Immersive and experimental, Gucci Cosmos promises a reflection of A-game creativity that’s out of this world. 11 October to 31 December, 180studios.com

CATCH-UP

Paul Mitchell has been named the world’s number one professional hair styling brand in this year’s Kline Group Salon Hair Care Global Series report.

Trevor Sorbie MBE is the new worldwide honorary patron of the Alternative Hair Show, which takes place in London on 15 October.

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has launched a new Hairdotcom Scholarship, sponsored by Davines The winner will spend a year shadowing the Hairdotcom Art Team.

Richard Scorer has become the new creative director of salon group Haringtons

K ain Lawrence is now managing director at West Sussex salon group, Q Hair and Beauty, where he will head up plans for expansion and sustainability.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

‘CAREERS AT THE CUTTING EDGE’ – ONE YEAR ON

A year after the seminal report was published, the NHBF is urging the industry to unite for further progress

When it was published last year, the NHBF’s landmark Careers at the Cutting Edge: Tackling the Skills Shortage in the Hair & Beauty Sector report highlighted a skills crisis in hair. This crisis was based on a series of interlinked factors across qualifications and training, recruitment and retention and financial pressures. One year on, the NHBF is urging the industry to come together to fight on.

However, the NHBF has already seen an impact. In hair qualifications and training, it has worked with the Department for Education for improved career marketing to schools and colleges,

demonstrating our amazing industry and the career opportunities it offers. It negotiated postponing the implementation of the new T-Level courses until the majority of the industry is happy and it has more support through the Education and Training Foundation.

The NHBF has joined forces with other industry organisations across hair and beauty to promote industry-wide guidelines through the Beauty Industry Group, as well as encouraging greater collaboration between government and local authorities. Many salon owners and hair professionals are still under significant financial pressure, so the NHBF has secured increased funding for apprenticeships in hairdressing and barbering, including discounts and relief for business rates and energy bills. It is now working with HMRC on a tax evasion crackdown campaign to help level the playing field, and is using its good relationships with government departments to lobby for additional support for businesses with expensive energy contracts and advocating for fairer taxation and VAT.

It won’t happen overnight, but with the support of everyone in the industry the NHBF can help make the positive changes that benefit us all.

@nhbfsocial

Read the full report at nhbf.co.uk/one-year-on

To find out more information and how to join the NHBF, call 01234 831 965 or visit nhbf.co.uk

Gucci Cosmos in Shanghai

With interchangeable patterned sleeves for creative stylists

THE SHOW: MITHRIDATE

THE ARTIST: JOHANNA CREE-BROWN AT TREVOR SORBIE FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS

In the gardens of St John’s Church near Waterloo, Mithridate searched for inner peace and wellbeing inspired by traditional Chinese medicine. The hair was swept back in high ponytails, the lengths plaited into long, exaggerated braids with accessories in the same tones as the fabrics and jewellery interspersed throughout. Serene and chic.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S24 LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S24

FROM WASTE-FUELLED MOHAWKS TO ADORNED, EXAGGERATED BRAIDS, HERE ARE SOME OF THE SEASON’S HAIR HIGHLIGHTS

THE SHOW: AADNEVIK

THE ARTIST: MELISSA TIMPERLEY FOR AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT

A place on the backstage team working the Aadnevik show was a prize up for grabs from Authentic Beauty Concept, meaning Melissa was supported by stylists thrilled to be working LFW for the first time. And what a result, with effortlessly flowing hair delivering, in Melissa’s words, “Charlie’s Angels vibes”.

THE SHOW: VIN + OMI

THE ARTIST: SAM BURNETT AT HARE & BONE FOR KMS

The duo’s Omnia collection, unveiled at One Hundred Shoreditch, used a selection of waste materials from royal residence Sandringham. On hair, more than 40 punk-inspired mohawks, with crimped sections and intricately crafted braids, defied gravity for a street savvy edge.

THE SHOW: KWK BY KAY KWOK

THE ARTIST: NICK IRWIN FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL With a gang of futuristic cool kids, Nick opted to ‘barcode’ the hair, with a gelled strip in one area, placed depending on each individual’s style and natural texture. Session Label The Jelly was on hand for the shiny futuristic set, alongside The Coat for a light mist of shine, before setting the barcode with The Strong.

THE SHOW: EMILIA WICKSTEAD

THE ARTIST: SYD HAYES FOR BABYLISS PRO

The word of the day here was ‘moditional’ – coined by Hayes for the ‘freshly washed hair texture’ look on show. Each model embraced their own natural hair; it was simply enhanced using the new BaByliss PRO Falco dryer with its redesigned diffuser attachment, keeping the hair tight to the head and sculpted at the back of the neck for a finish that, in Syd’s words, “fuses traditional, classic style with modern femininity and individuality”.

Images courtesy of Authentic Beauty Concept, BaByliss PRO, KMS, L’Oréal Professionnel

creativeheadmag.com

Created for freelancers, for free, SELF/STYLED Sundays returns on 29 October for a jam-packed agenda of styling and colour masterclasses to help you get set for the Christmas rush

Looking for ways to unwind?

Press play on our new-look video page for curated playlists featuring fascinating conversation, all the action from our events, and plenty of hair inspo

Avoid FOMO and add 20 November to your calendar, when The Coterie returns to London for our final event of the year.

Candid conversation on the topic of collaboration awaits – don’t miss out!

Come behind the scenes of the October cover shoot, in partnership with BaByliss PRO. We’re talking styling inspo, product must-haves and top tips on techniques… all served with a side of disco

New from Schwarzkopf Professional Session Label comes The Jelly, a flexible, non-sticky styling gel that sculpts, defines and tames without any crispiness. There’s also The Coat, a multi-protection shine spray hat leaves hair silky smooth and flawlessly shiny while protecting hair against frizz, static and heat up to 232°C.

RRP £19.56 each schwarzkopfpro.com

Fresh from gaining B Corp status, Keune has unveiled the Confident Curl range, which hydrates and defines all curl types from type 2A to 4C with goodies stuffed with natural ingredients and without sulphates or silicones.

RRP from £21.95

Get excited, because Salon Promotions – the sole distributor for Alterna in the UK – has reduced prices for its My Hair. My Canvas. and Alterna Renewing Scalp Care ranges across the UK, to help salon businesses and bring even better value to clients! alternadirect.co.uk

salonpromotions.co.uk

Target weak and damaged bonds with Paul Mitchell Bond RX, a complete bond-building system with heat-activated technology that restores strength and resilience without extra processing time. The three-step take-home range strengthens and restores hair strands from the inside out in between salon visits.

RRP from £13.80

salon-success.co.uk

Keratin Complex’s favourite 15-minute treatment is having a glow-up! Now known as KCEXPRESS, the revenue-boosting add-on service locks in hair colour, smooths, boosts shine, increases manageability and combats frizz for up to six weeks.

In-salon service

capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

rebelbeautybrands.com

ALFAPARF Milano Professional has updated its Evolution of the Color 3 permanent colour line. Aside from offering comprehensive colour protection, longevity and radiance, new improvements include in-built light damage protection, anti-pollution technology and UV protection.

In-salon service

xpertprofessional.co.uk

Redken is expanding its Acidic Bonding Concentrate bond care range for those with fine and dry hair. In an innovative spray, Lightweight Liquid Conditioner is ultra-light and quickly absorbs, while new Intensive 5 Minute Mask provides 72 hours of hair-softening hydration.

RRP conditioner

£24.10; mask £31.50 lorealpartnershop.com/uk

STOCK IT!

STOCK IT!

LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES

Colour clients are always on the hunt for goodies that keep their shades vibrant and nourished for longer. Illuminated Color from Bumble and bumble is spot on, and includes Vibrancy Treatment, a rinse-out treat that delivers stand-out shine and softness in just one minute.

Turn up your service and personalisation routines to the next level with these Fibre Clinix Bonding Oils from Schwarzkopf Professional. Available in Light and Rich, they deliver five-times more nourishment alongside bonding repair, preventing up to 93 per cent of hair damage. Genius!

RRP £25.20 each schwarzkopfpro.com

Paul Mitchell Platinum Plus Shampoo has five-times more toning power than its Platinum Blonde range, while the clever Toning Drops can be added to a Paul Mitchell shampoo, conditioner, treatment or styler to get a personalised yet perfect blonde finish. This is next-level customisation...

RRP shampoo £24.25; toning drops £20.25

salon-success.co.uk

With an innovative go-to formula, the lightweight R+Co Teleport is perfect for buildable hold, enhancing natural waves, and adding smooth, subtle shine.

RRP £29.90 xpertprofessional.co.uk

and Natural Beige, you can boost the gleam you’re giving clients courtesy of LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid from JOICO. Use them alone or mix for a palette of possibilities.

In-salon service

joico.eu

MUSCLE POWER BOOST YOUR MENTAL

HAIRDRESSER TURNED

PSYCHOTHERAPIST HAYLEY JEPSON – CO-CREATOR OF HEAD UP KEYS, PART OF THE HEAD UP CAMPAIGN FOR BETTER MENTAL HEALTH FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS – SHARES A WORKOUT FOR YOUR MENTAL WELLBEING

Colour technician Hayley Jepson was 20 years into hairdressing when her mental health declined. After therapy, she retrained as a psychotherapist with a mission to help keep hairdressing talent where they should be – happy, healthy and firmly in the industry. Here she shares what's she's learnt and how L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is here to help.

Creative HEAD: What makes hairdressing so pressurised?

Hayley Jepson: There’s the constant time pressure and not always being in charge of your own column – that lack of control can be tough. There’s also a lack of effective leadership training. It’s often business- and numbers-focused as opposed to relationships-focused. Another issue is overheads. The margin of profit in hairdressing is so tight that people make decisions that aren’t good for their health. In our roles, making people happy is connected to our financial security – that’s stressful. I’ve also spoken to salon owners who say they can’t get staff to take holiday, they’re worried about commission and letting clients down.

CH: When did you realise that hairdressers needed better mental health support?

HJ: I was in therapy for six years and I was behind the chair all that time. My therapist didn’t understand the hairdressing world or culture. She would advise me to do things on my lunch break and I was like: ‘my what now?’. I was a triple-booked technician. Even if I could get a break, I couldn’t leave the shop. I was spending most of my session explaining how hairdressing works, which was expensive! That’s why I wanted to help; things can be improved more quickly when someone understands your environment.

CH: Tell us about your role with the Head Up initiative from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris…

HJ: I’m so proud of this project. I helped develop the education. I think of my role as a hair translator, bridging the gap between classic mental health education and how it works for us as hairdressers. I’m a presenter too, so you’ll see me on the videos.

CH: What major mental health pressures are hairdressers facing right now?

HJ: The last quarter of the year is the busiest for hairdressers as both work and personal lives ramp up, meaning stress and anxiety are high. Burnout is another pressure caused by people pleasing. Many of us are taught to people-please and go that extra mile in a way that’s unhealthy. Another is compassion fatigue. No-one checks to see if we’re resourced enough to listen to clients’ personal stories. We go through people’s lives with them including deaths, IVF, traumas, and we’re not always equipped.

CH: What’s your definition of burnout and the early warning signs?

HJ: My definition is mental, physical and emotional exhaustion with a dollop of hopelessness on top. In terms of early signs, you might notice that you’re feeling joyless and more serious, that you’re no fun anymore. Finding little joy in your work, dreading the day to come, and feeling resentful are common too. Exhaustion is another factor. For salon owners and managers, there are simple

things to spot with burnout and poor mental health; are they off sick more? Do they look like they need to be off sick? Do they seem different?

CH: How can salon owners and managers create better wellbeing for stylists?

HJ: Check in with your staff one on one, and regularly. If you want people to be able to talk to you and say, ‘I’m not feeling great’, don’t weaponise that information. Model healthy behaviour. Take your holidays, sit down and have lunch, and don’t stay really late. They stay late because they feel pressure from clients, so encourage them to look after themselves first. Finally, find a way to let people be more flexible with their jobs, so they can find balance and not get burnt out, and are more likely to stay.

CH: What mental health interventions work?

HJ: Start by saying that they don’t seem themselves and ask if are they okay. Just watch your tone so it doesn’t sound accusatory. Do it in private. Also ask them if there’s anything you can do at work to make things easier for them at this moment. Some people might not want to tell you what their problem is, and they don’t have to. Building that sort of relationship takes trust and time. Educate yourself around mental health – and the best way to do this is to sign up and take the Head Up Keys course from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. It’s free and available to everyone.

Ready to help yourself and others build better mental health? Sign up for free and take the Head Up Keys course – scan the QR code or head to L’Oréal Access at uk.lorealaccess.com #HeadUp #HeadUpKeys

THE PLACES THE PLACES

NEW SPACES, FRESH LOOKS AND LOCATIONS TO HELP YOU WORK BETTER

EDWARD JAMES, RICHMOND

@edwardjameshair

The latest addition to the Edward James family is a 2,000 sq ft flagship salon that carefully marries sustainability with luxury. Once through the doors, guests are met with a distinctive forest installation, crafted from 67 responsibly-sourced tree trunks. The interior is sustainably curated, enhanced by bespoke lighting from Paolo Moschino and Pooky Lighting. The salon design minimises the use of plastics, plaster and concrete, while embracing low VOC paint and low voltage lighting. Boasting mid-century design pieces around its 20 dedicated workstations, there’s also an exclusive section for those seeking a little more privacy, too.

FOUR LONDON, MAYFAIR

@fourlondon

New premises for this colour hub sees bespoke woodwork, plenty of natural light and a patio area help balance the industrial vibe with softer edges, creating a feeling of a home.

CAROL RITCHIE, PORTSMOUTH

@carolritchiebespokehair

Alongside a retro hood dryer bank, this salon’s decor is based on the Beverly Hills Hotel, a tribute to Carol’s late friend and mentor, where the pair shared their last breakfast together.

THE PLACES THE PLACES

YOKE, PLYMOUTH

@yokeplymouth

This coastal beauty has enjoyed a little refresh, with a new backwash area, fresh chairs and basins, and an updated paint scheme for warm and calming surroundings. Even the bathroom’s gotten arty, thanks to local artist Sarah Smalldon, a lovely surprise for clients when the rest of the interior is so chilled and minimal. The vibe is understated, organic and friendly, so clients will want to pop in, even “when just passing or to warm up after they’ve had a swim in the sea”, says co-founder Jo Dyer.

ROAR HAIR & BEAUTY, MUIREND

@roarhairandbeauty

The Scottish group’s third salon in Glasgow boasts an impressive colour bar that’s fully stocked with Goldwell for all the locally famous colour transformations.

BUTCHERS, CHESTER

@butcherssalon

The new location joins the group’s three other eco-conscious sites located in East London, Camden and Leicester, with the team looking to expand further with franchise opportunities.

BUSINESS IN A BOX

WITH THE #1 IN SMOOTHING

From smoother, straighter results to defined curl without the frizz, each of our keratin treatments and at-home products is designed to make the hair healthier from the inside out. @keratincomplex_uki

THE FACES THE FACES THE PEOPLE IN ACTION

What would Jo Hansford do?

As the iconic colourist celebrates 30 years of her Mayfair salon, Jo Hansford shares her strategy behind maintaining a loyal clientele

THIS MAY SEEM like I’m stating the obvious, but going above and beyond for every visit is vital. The devil is in the detail and a client should never be made to feel like they’re a commodity. Clients have so much choice as to where they go for their hair, and you may think they’re incredibly loyal and you have a wonderful relationship. But in just one or two bad experiences that can change. If they don’t feel they’re always valued, they will not return. And it doesn’t matter if they‘re seeing a junior or senior team member, their experience has got to match their expectations.

One issue we’ve heard about at some salons is that a stylist can get carried away with their success and forget that the client is paying for their service. The days of the hairdresser being more important than the client are long gone! It doesn’t matter how successful you are or your business is, you are never more important than your client.

Many people assume because we’re based in Mayfair and Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, we’ll be pretentious and intimidating. It’s completely the opposite; we want everyone to feel special the moment they walk in the door. Even if team

members are busy, an acknowledgement by them such as a smile and eye contact is so important.

Communication with clients is vital, too. If you’re running late, apologise and let them know in advance if you can.

Value their time as much as your own. Try to accommodate clients, it makes a huge difference. Even if you can’t make it work, the fact that you’re trying your best makes them feel cared for.

Delivering the highest standard of colouring and styling at every appointment is vital, but so too are all the little touch points that make a difference and encourages someone to talk about your salon. We will add in little extras such as taking a client’s dog for a walk, ordering a taxi, helping them find a restaurant or offering an umbrella if it’s raining.

e’ve been established for 30 years and we still know that 60 per cent of our new clients come to us through word of mouth. Make sure you give guests something to remember as well as good hair; they’ll have a reason to speak about you to everyone they can!

@johansfordsalon

WHAT MADE ME CHRISTOPHER LAIRD CO-OWNER, NOVEMBER COLLECTIVE @hairbychristopherlaird

In February 2022, just six months after opening my salon November Collective in Livingston near Edinburgh, it was broken into. It was a massive wake-up call. I realised that I had no idea how much stock was in the salon. I had to trawl through a year’s worth of invoices to figure out what hadn’t been taken in the burglary. We were left with losses of about £40,000.

I knew I had to get our ‘ducks in order’ so that I could always account for exactly

how much stock was in the building, down to the last box of foil. I hadn’t taken the time to make sure it was someone’s designated job to stock count, instead it was when someone ‘had a minute’.

I enrolled with Salon Jedi, which centres around business strategy, mindfulness and profit, as well as personal growth. Now we systematise every corner of our business, looking at the team’s strengths and weaknesses and then allocating roles that suit, as well as strategising targets, finances, growth and PR. As a team, we’ve worked hard on our mindset journeys, setting goals for where we see ourselves.

Now, everything comes back to my top three values – wealth, health and success. I know exactly what I want, and that element of self-belief is the strongest change in me.

the Forecast

BY

Lazy beauty

‘Lazy beauty’ might sound like an oxymoron, following centuries of society’s insistence that looking good takes a lot of effort and investment. But with 2022’s emergence of the ‘lazy girl summer’, and a growing thirst for the slow life, a lazier approach to beauty is taking over.

Lazy beauty, which captures a more relaxed approach to a self-care routine, is fast becoming the new norm. Consumers want haircare products built around no-fuss, high-quality ingredients that produce real results. They’re looking for multi-use products that make a measurable difference to their hair’s health and appearance.

As a haircare pro, there are several ways you can bring the trend into your offerings and make the most of its popularity. Because lazy beauty fits into the Gen Z-driven ethos that self-care is a

necessity rather than a luxury, they’ll be eager to invest in time-efficient, extra treatments that produce real results. So, you can offer add-ons like a 10-minute scalp treatment right before an appointment, or a face mask that works while a client’s colour is setting.

Since lazy beauty surfaced during the pandemic – when people wanted snackable, micro-beauty moments they could get done in 10 minutes to break up the monotony of being stuck at home – anything you can do to replicate a quick break will do the trick. This could be hair masks offered over a lunch hour, and short toning or gloss sessions to revive hair colour fast.

Another important part of lazy beauty is a more mindful approach to consuming, which means people will be on the lookout for simple, sustainable alternatives. If you can invest in locally-sourced products for your salon with recyclable or compostable packaging and demonstrate an overall commitment to the health of people and planet, you’ll appeal to the consumer looking for a lower-impact routine.

No matter what products and treatments you offer, if you want to make the most of the lazy beauty trend, the key is to laser-focus on the benefits of each product and treatment. Avoid exaggerating and instead be clear and direct about the expected results.

As with many emerging beauty trends, it’s all about appealing to a more educated and mindful consumer who wants to prioritise selfcare and find the right way to fit it into their life.

Keep up with the latest trends so you can offer new treatments, deliver the best possible client experience, and outpace the competition. Get locked in on Fresha’s trend report, the world’s leading booking platform in collaboration with WGSN, which is available for download later this month. Discover more now at fresha.com

By embracing the power of lazy beauty, focused on time-conscious, sustainable and results-driven treatments, you can offer clients more with less

A more snackable approach to self-care

POWERED

A DAY OF WORK/LIFE BALANCE FOR GIUSEPPE STELITANO, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF TREVOR SORBIE @GIUSEPPEBSTELITANO

I GET UP AT… 7am. I shower, have my coffee, then I’m ready to go!

MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF… minimal black and white, sometimes oversized, but my style is always changing. It just depends how I feel on the day.

MY JOB ENTAILS… Many different aspects. As the creative director, I’m not only working with hair, I’m also involved in almost every other area of the business. From global marketing campaigns and strategy planning to working on set photographing, directing and editing.

I GOT HERE BY… Passion – pure and simple!

MY DAY CONSISTS OF… Every day is different. If I’m on the salon floor, I’m usually fully booked and looking after all my guests, focused on making their hair look beautiful. If it’s a creative day, I’m doing lots of experimentation and research into any new or ongoing projects.

MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… A new painting brush that L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has launched. I’m obsessed with it! It has really nice soft bristles, which are perfect for balayage.

MY DAILY FUEL IS… Espresso.

MY SPOTIFY PLAYLIST INCLUDES… Beyoncé and Lana Del Rey.

I’M ALWAYS… Drinking an espresso!

WHEN I GET STRESSED… I go really quiet and zone in on whatever I’m doing. If you saw me, you’d never know I’m stressed as I just channel it into whatever I’m doing. But when I’m alone and in a private place, then you would see how stressed I am.

WHEN I GET STUCK… I walk away and do something different. I either give it just a couple of minutes or a few days depending on how much time I have before coming back to it.

THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS… Smoking.

THE MISTAKE I LEARNT THE MOST… Relying on other people for help instead of trying to fix it myself first. In the early stages of my training, I would be too quick to ask for someone’s advice before taking time to attempt to solve the problem.

THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… Being told my choice of model for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy was not right. Spoiler alert – we won that year!

MY INBOX LOOKS LIKE… A work in progress! Let’s just say hat I prefer phone calls and DMs.

MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… Sunglasses, definitely.

AFTER WORK… I take the bus home. I love to switch off, listen to music and watch the world go by.

I DECOMPRESS BY… Gardening, looking after my flat and doing things that don’t relate to hair to give me time to reset.

INSTAGRAM

To check in on what’s happening with my friends and the industry.

MATCHESFASHION

Forget S/S and A/W, my favourite season is the sales!

SKYSCANNER

I’m always travelling!

KNOW YOUR AUDIENCE

KNOW YOUR AUDIENCE

HOW TO MAKE A NAME FOR YOURSELF

If you’re a hairdresser wanting to build a career in the session world, there are a few important things to consider first. Do you want to make a name for yourself in fashion, beauty, film and TV, or commercial shoots? Do you want to work backstage at shows or to get the call from the celebs who go to those shows?

There’s a big pool of session work out there but different skillsets are required in each area, and they rarely cross over. Knowing what you want and generating content to appeal to those audiences who’ll give you the booking is key. What’s the saying? ‘Don’t spread yourself too thin’ – understand who your audience is and create work that will appeal to them.

In TV and film, the scope is huge. You’ll need to learn about hairstyles of the day for period dramas, and fantasy/sci-fi etc. Totally different to what you’d create on a fashion editorial shoot or advertising campaign. With celeb styling for red carpet events, you need to work at a different pace to being on a set all day or being in a workshop preparing wigs –same goes for the shows. Always be well equipped and bring quality hair extensions as well.

I’ve been fortunate to work on a variety of industry and commercial gigs over my hairdressing career. I’d say creating beautiful hair is now my thing. This stems in part from all the Saks consumer campaigns that I’ve worked on over the years. And it was my work with Nikki Makeup that led to beauty brands – such as Charlotte Tilbury – noticing my work. I started putting out lots of content on my Instagram and it snowballed from there. Collaborating with Nikki got me noticed by the beauty industry and the agents and celebs who follow her.

It’s essential that you keep up-to-date with trends. Do your research and keep learning. Whether this is self-education on YouTube, or masterclasses with experts and training courses. Also hook up with make-up artists, photographers, models, and local studios to create some looks. As well as putting your work on your socials, you can also build a portfolio that you can easily send over when opportunities come up. Show them that you’re creative, organised, and that you really want the booking!

You’ve upskilled, you’re on it with socials and you’ve got your portfolio. Don’t be shy – start contacting people about assisting, and take whatever opportunities come your way. And if you get an enquiry by DM and you think it’s not genuine – check it out! I nearly ignored one once, I just thought ‘naa’. Thankfully, I was told it was genuine, responded and got an incredible job from it. Nearly a very big missed opportunity!

@lukepluckrose

Once an air conditioning engineer, Luke Pluckrose has cemented himself as an in-demand stylist for A-listers as well as being the creative director of salon group Saks. He shares what he’s learnt about building a career in session

SEEING IS B-ELIEVING

KEUNE IS CELEBRATING ITS FRESHLY WON B CORP STATUS, CUTTING THROUGH THE SUSTAINABILITY NOISE WITH ITS ONGOING AND AUTHENTIC MISSION

Professionalism – it’s a mighty big word to throw around. In haircare, a professional brand shouldn’t just mean sky-high standards, reputation and performance. It’s about going further to show it cares about its customers, staff, and the planet beyond.

At a time when climate change is making headlines daily, businesses can and should play an important role, stepping up with sustainable practices to help and support both people and the planet. Keune Haircosmetics is a family-owned company that’s celebrated a century in this industry, and now it’s celebrating its hard-won B Corp certified status. In real terms, that means Keune has met the highest and rigorous standards of social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency.

A legacy of integrity

This isn’t greenwashing. Keune scored strongly in multiple areas of certification – Environment, for its use of solar panels, electric company cars, and more; Supply Chain Management, for its close relationships with suppliers; and its Employee Health, Wellness, and Safety, which was deemed excellent.

Hair has been a labour of love for Keune, with a timeline stretching back to 1922 when Jan Keune bottled his first product in his Amsterdam pharmacy. That proud legacy evolves with this official B Corporation achievement, underpinned by a promise not just to create great products that hair professionals can rely on, but to also leave the world a better place for future generations.

The Keune story isn’t about optics but continual progress, and it has greater people and planet targets to hit after securing this B Corp title. From developing better employee benefits to introducing fully recyclable packaging and more sustainable materials, improving factory sustainability, and even a sustainability update of one of its trusted product ranges, the hard work is far from over…

“As a family-owned business, we have been aware of our role in society for more than a century, taking this responsibility seriously for three generations. Becoming a B Corp is the recognition of our commitment, and we are focused on passing the company to future generations and preserving the planet”

Eelco Keune, chief executive

There are no surprises”

After 40 years of subversive hairdressing, Eugene Souleiman has become a Most Wanted Legend

“I’m inspired by what people perceive as bad taste. Because good taste is just good taste.

Eugene Souleiman’s entry into the world of hair was not so much a lucky break as pure chance. In 1982, the punk-rocker Goldsmiths art school drop-out found himself unemployed. “I went into my local job centre and they said, ‘Fill this questionnaire out’. And then they went, ‘You’d be a great hairdresser’. And I said, ‘Okay’.” Hair college and a stint at a stuffy Grosvenor House hotel barber shop ensued, after which Souleiman moved to the avantgarde Trevor Sorbie salon in Covent Garden, where he “learnt the Sassoon way” and spent more than a decade.

It was at Sorbie’s that Souleiman made his first forays into the session world, assisting Trevor on shoots and cutting models’ hair in salons. Eschewing mainstream fashion titles, he went for counter-culture magazines like The Face and i-D, working on weekends with photographers such as Craig McDean and Corinne Day before landing his first high-profile campaign for Jil Sander in 1996. “Craig took off as a photographer and brought [make-up maestro] Pat McGrath and me along with him, that’s really how we ended up in that world. We weren’t rich, we weren’t part of any established network, all we had were ideas. We didn’t base our style on what had come before because we didn’t really like what was out there – we just wanted to do our own thing.”

Souleiman’s unorthodox approach to hair – transcending its traditional confines and expectations in pursuit of the extraordinary – has always been a hallmark of his career. From creating soap suds for John Galliano at Maison Margiela, to crafting Björk’s otherworldly scarlet wig on the cover of Biophilia, Souleiman’s versatility with hair means that his creations vary from the whimsical and surreal to the sharp and stripped back. He is nothing short of a magician, recognising the tiny fragment of a reference which first inspired a designer and working with it to elevate the collection to another plane entirely. And yet, his Instagram profile (@eugenesouleiman) humbly professes him a “ladies hairdresser”, as though all of this were simply by the by – which neatly sums up Souleiman’s incredible authenticity. Creative HEAD caught up with the three-times winner of Most Wanted Hair Icon to talk creative processes and collaborations.

“I don’t love perfection, I find imperfections beautiful. But I was challenged in this instance to look at perfection as a positive thing because this model was like a sculpture, a piece of perfection. I wanted to do something historical because she looked like Queen Nefertiti. And that’s where the idea came from. The texture of the band was so that it melted into her skin – everything in the hair was compartmentalised but also seamless. That’s what this was about.”

PHOTOGRAPHY JULIEN MARTINEZ LECLERC

Creative HEAD: Let’s start with lockdown, which was such a struggle for so many creatives. How did it impact on you?

Eugene Souleiman: So, I lost pretty much everything: my earnings and every support mechanism in my life just disappeared within the space of two or three months. It was quite catastrophic. As a form of sanctuary, I literally had to create something. And I started looking at the world, looking at technology, looking at my spirit, looking at my history, looking at my feelings, what I'd learnt – and finding a place for everything. And it was really weird, I just started writing a lot and journalling stuff and I became my own psychoanalyst. And I could see a path forward. It completely changed my perspective, because obviously I spent a lot of time with myself and it was quite a cleansing period for me. On the positive side, it had a way of editing people out of my life that actually didn’t need to be there. I probably should have edited them out a long time ago. Over time you build up a history, you build up connections, and some connections are really, really strong, and there were some connections that I didn’t realise existed – and that was unexpected and it was really beautiful.

CH: You live life at a breakneck speed, so you probably hadn’t had the opportunity to reflect like that.

ES: I think all hairdressers work instinctively, and you really don’t have the time to analyse your feelings because you’re always in fight or flight mode. So when everything stopped, I felt emotionally exhausted. I didn’t realise how tired I was. And I think I lost all sense of self and direction, because I was facilitating lots of other people without realising I needed to nurture myself and go inward.

CH: So what’s changed in your world since everything opened back up again?

ES: I’ve realised I’m only suited to people who work creatively, and not those who are just ticking boxes. I can only work well with really good photographers, people who I admire. The photographer Rafael Pavarotti is a godsend – he lets me get away with murder. I’m working on projects, getting involved with shoots from a conceptual point of view. People are sending me loads of references and we’re talking all the time, it’s much, much more collaborative. We don’t just go to work and do something, we build a story that we craft over a period of time.

CH: Which project is exciting you the most right now?

ES: Well, Rafael is Brazilian so we want to go to Brazil and go into the rainforest and I’m going to take no hairdressing equipment whatsoever. I want to create a Medusa hairstyle on a model using 12 snake skeletons – I’m going to put the model’s hair inside them along with bits of leaves and stuff. And Rafael is like, “Yeah, we can do that!”

CH: That sounds incredible! What do you get out of working like that?

ES: I love to work at a fast pace. I thrive on adrenaline. I think I’ve got quite a young kind of vibe, even though I’m older. Because I’m very open and I like to have a laugh and I love loud music and to dance and mess around and not be too pretentious. And I’ve realised there’s a group of people right now who are actually doing that and that’s where I want to be. My first assistant and I were talking about the history of hair – he has started collecting books and he’s got this old Sassoon manual. And he said, “What do you think of Sassoon?” And I said he was an absolute genius. That was a moment in time when someone just truly did what they felt like doing. And that’s what’s missing in our industry, where you’ve got people who just really think out of the box. That era has gone – today all we’re used to is quick, quick, quick.

CH: What drives your creativity, your creative process?

ES: When I was a kid, we had no money – literally no money – and I wanted a bike. I couldn’t afford a five-gear racer, so my mates and I made our own bikes out of spare parts of other bikes. We created these mad-looking bikes with bullhorn handlebars and chopper seats and sprayed them up. They were bonkers. And then once we’d built them we started swapping parts with each other so these bikes were always changing and evolving. And I think that for me was the beginning of my creativity – and it was born out of necessity. It was about using your imagination and seeing a

“I’ve always liked contradiction and contrast because I believe we, as people, are a massive contradiction, and I find that inspiring because what it does is raises questions. You challenge things and you look at them in a different way. And for one part of this story there is a very slick area right at the top, and I had braided the rest of her hair, but then quite spontaneously I took it all down and it was this beautiful romantic texture that I draped it loosely around her head. I like taking hairstyles down and reimagining them. On this occasion it wasn’t pre-meditated –it was something that just happened. And that’s the exciting thing about what I do. I like surprises.”

PHOTOGRAPHY JULIEN MARTINEZ LECLERC

path forward and making it work with what you had – looking at something and seeing beyond what it what it actually was. And when you have nothing, you are more imaginative, more resilient. You don’t have any rules because there is no system there. You have to create your own system, your own way of thinking. Yes, I’m a good hairdresser, but I know I could do better – and that’s not just me being humble, it’s what pushes me forward. I know I’m going to be a student for life, always learning. And that’s why I’ve always loved my craft. I don’t do it because I want people to think I’m a genius, I do it because it’s a form of communication, of growth and discovery. It’s my personal therapy, it really is. It’s about me discovering myself and my place in the world and my values and what I can bring to it. That’s it, very simple.

CH: Vogue ran a fashion story where the behind-thescenes team were included in the final shots. Did you enjoy being on that side of the camera at last?

ES: I really cannot stand looking at myself. I like to think I look like Johnny Depp, but then when I actually see myself I’m faced with this harsh reality! That image came about because a mistake had been made and the story changed and all of a sudden it was decided we should be in the shot. We hadn’t set out for that to happen, and not everyone would have run with it, but there was this energy on set that day and [the photographer] Rafael totally went with it. And I think we should take what we do seriously, but we shouldn’t take ourselves too seriously. Mind you, I can’t tell you which words I used when I phoned Rafael after seeing it in print.

CH: What makes a piece of work interesting to you?

ES: When it comes from the heart, when it’s authentic. Take music. I love music and I can listen to almost any kind, but what really resonates with me is when I hear a piece of music and I know the person who created it just had to create it. It can be

anything, from folk music to hip hop, to a piece of classical music, jazz, blues, electronica, punk, garage, reggae, whatever. If it resonates with me and I feel that the person making the music is really feeling that and it’s something they have to do, well, I’m going to love it. Whenever you listen to a piece of music, the thing that resonates with you is love. That is something that will never, ever go away. Love and passion. They are the things you will always go back to. And every song that you probably have ever loved has been about love, right? Because it’s human. So that’s how I’m choosing to work nowadays. I’m not looking at things seasonally. I’m looking at them as separate projects.

CH: Many of your peers – Sam McKnight, Oribe, Pat McGrath, Charlotte Tilbury – have launched their own brands. Have you been tempted?

ES: I’m working on mine right now! It’s going to be completely different from anything else that’s out there – a big surprise! I rang up a friend of mine who’s an art director and we were having conversations long into the night about how art connected with science. And he was like, “You’re really weird, Eugene, because you’re a punk rocker who’s also a hippie – you’re really into technology, science, chemistry, calculations and equations, but at the same time you’re also a bit of a showman.” So, it’s been a bit like a genius let loose in a laboratory. Really, it’s been this massive awakening for me that’s been very exciting, and an opportunity to create a world that I would love to live in. I’ve become like an art director and I’m getting people involved that I admire and trust to collaborate with me and do things they’ve never had the opportunity to do. I always say, “I love it, but can you go further?”

CH: How would you describe your approach to hairdressing to another hairdresser?

ES: With hairdressing, it’s great to have a skill set and an understanding of building, of cutting, of reducing. But once you’ve mastered that technical expertise you have to break free of the shackles, because that’s what takes you away from being obvious. You really need to find your own language and put it out there. Individuality is something we should nurture in our industry – people shouldn’t be afraid of failure and making mistakes because failures are life’s way of pushing you forward and motivating you. I always feel that when a creative person starts feeling comfortable, they stop being creative. I think we should embrace discomfort to a certain extent, because when you’ve never been down that avenue before and you don’t know where it’s heading, it leads to something memorable. Our weaknesses help us learn. And I don’t think people should be afraid to do that.

CH: And finally, what are your thoughts on reaching Most Wanted Legend status?

ES: It gives me a tremendously warm feeling, because it’s something that puts me in a place which I’ve always valued. I’ve always had people in the industry that have inspired me and that I’ve looked up to, and if that’s how so many talented people now feel about my work and what I’ve done, I couldn’t get a better accolade. It’s a genuine appreciation of my art and craft and my enduring love of styling hair, and I’m really grateful.

“This look started off from a parting and I was looking at the hair and working on one area at the front, and I was looking at the model and she was so quiet and serene and really beautiful. Then I found myself wrapping the hair under her chin and from that point on it just kind of evolved and flowed from there. Once again, it wasn’t planned but that one action changed everything.”

JULIEN MARTINEZ LECLERC

Image by Michelle for Unsplash

THAT 'S A WRAP!

salon owners have enough on their plates this Christmas with the ongoing cost of living crisis. so If clients are channelling their inner Scrooge, we have some tips on how best to ensure seasonal success

GET RETAIL SAVVY

When looking for gift inspiration, stocking fillers and little ‘I need a treat too’ moments to offer, think about what retail will entice clients to spend, especially when times are tough. Christopher Laird, co-owner at Edinburgh’s November Collective, builds up a sense of excitement. “Early planning and teasers are vital,” he states. “Promoting a flash sale for shampoo and conditioner gift sets, for example, generates a shopping rush.” He advises to think about email marketing, SMS marketing, and interactive posts on Facebook and Instagram. For product demos and offers, head to TikTok.

Emma Fowler, owner of Emma Fowler Hair in Essex, says convenience and budget-friendly options help. “Offer subscription boxes delivered to the client or add a ‘buy now, pay later’ option like Klarna, which is great if you offer highpriced items like electricals. In fact, 85 per cent of the sales through my online shop used finance options, which meant an increase in more profitable retail!”

Retail doesn’t just have to be products; offer gift cards for hairdressing services and pre-paid packages too, suggests Elena Lavagni, owner and founder of Neville Hair & Beauty, such as “buy five blow-drys and get one free”. Liz Wilson, marketing manager at Live True London, says the salon group plans to launch a limited-edition treatment menu which it promotes pre-Christmas via socials and a newsletter, and proved a big success last year. By noting party season trends and aligning them with existing services, they can offer clients the festive looks they crave without having to retrain staff, a time-efficient but money-driven move.

USE YOUR ASSISTANTS

Junior staff, particularly apprentices, could be your golden ticket to a more streamlined and profitable Christmas season. Melenie Tudor, owner of Wakefield’s En Route Hair & Beauty, uses hers for toning and blow-dry services which free up her wider team’s capacity, potentially opening opportunities to take on more clients during the busy period. Just be sure to introduce junior staff during previous appointments, she warns, so clients are comfortable with them.

The upskilling work can never happen too soon, and Luke Ormsby (pictured, right), from Luke Ormsby Salons in Pinner and Primrose Hill, started well before the autumn leaves fell. “From late summer we focus on building their confidence and skills with a series of finishes such as Hollywood curls, beach waves, and that classic straight mirror shine. If they can step up, they take over certain tasks that help us max out on services and sales.”

EARLY BOOKINGS MATTER

Instead of waiting around for last-minute bookings to trickle in, secure them early. Your staff, as well as your bottom line, will thank you. A roster of early bookings well ahead of the Christmas countdown will give you a better idea of where your festive finances are sitting, including whether you need to turn up the heat on selling. “We have already started booking Christmas appointments,” says En Route Hair & Beauty’s Melenie Tudor (pictured, left). “It’s a good way of creating demand if clients know that others have started booking. It also helps us plan and prepare.”

In Amber Swift’s world as the manager at Edinburgh’s Holy Corner salon, encouraging rebooking “helps stylists avoid burnout, especially when regulars are looking for last-minute Christmas appointments and we end up squeezing them in”.

MOST

WANTED SUSTAINABILITY HERO LORRAINE NAUGHTON FROM OB-1 HAIR IS SHARING HER TIPS ON SUSTAINABILITY OVER THE FESTIVE PERIOD AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART/HUB

BE EXPERIENCE LED

Creating tantalising experiences in the salon preChristmas is sure to stir up the client spending appetite. Taz Daddi-Addoun, owner of The Birdcage Hair Salon in Kettering, runs an event each November to celebrate the launch of its annual Christmas retail selection. In 2022, more than 60 per cent of its Christmas stock was sold in about two hours, and Taz plans to go bigger this year, by including a local Christmas choir. Interactive experiences are part of the mix, such as a salon cocktail bar and “hair demos that clients can stand and watch”, with a focus on “seasonal hair-ups and festive looks ready for the Christmas party season”. Taz is keen to beat last year’s sales record “by creating more gift ideas for clients so they can kick-start their Christmas shopping”. The fact that it is a ticketed event makes it feel even more special. “We like to transform the salon into a winter wonderland, it’s very fun for all,” he adds.

In Anna Sorbie’s view, ensure the retail experience you offer stands out with added value for clients with tighter purse strings. The owner of Anna Sorbie Salon & Bowness Barber Lounge in the Lake District, she believes that “a package of clip-in hair, accessories and luxury haircare gift sets at affordable prices that you can help them choose, and showing them how it all works is a bespoke experience found only in salons”. She also advises to beat the competition by stocking “a pro brand that doesn’t devalue its products online” and by offering refills to appeal to budget-conscious customers.

MAINTAIN THE ENERGY

The Christmas period is a busy and stressful time for stylists, often facing packed columns. According to Roz Orr, salon manager of Edinburgh’s Charlie Miller South St Andrew Street salon, to avoid service levels dropping “keep it tight and do it right”. Good service sells, so remind stylists to share expertise on colour looks, including realistic time frames for maintenance, as this will keep them coming back for more, she adds. When things are busy preChristmas, she advises to let staff “take ownership of decisions” which can boost motivation and keep the plates spinning. The promise of rest on the horizon can also keep up standards when it gets hectic.

Janene Hawkins-Bush (pictured, left), owner of Heavenly Hair in Suffolk, advises having a salon “shutdown” after the festive period, a perfect Christmas carrot for staff to encourage a top-tier trading season that clients will remember.

The Birdcage 2022 Christmas event

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KEEP ON GIVING

Get your shelves ready for the retail rush with Christmas gifts to help clients breeze through their shopping lists

Alterna’s caviar infused gift sets offer show-stopping TLC for all hair types. Choose from Caviar Anti-Aging Replenishing Moisture Shampoo & Conditioner, or for finer or medium heads, Caviar Anti-Aging Multiplying Volume Shampoo & Conditioner.

RRP £63.85 each alternadirect.co.uk

Take bond-building through the festive period and into the New Year with these limited-edition holiday kits from OLAPLEX. Each one contains the conic OLAPLEX No.3 Bond Perfector for more esilient hair beyond the party season.

RRP from £16 uk.olaplex.com

Paul Mitchell is celebrating the festive feelings of connection and celebration with its bright moments gift sets, adorned with neonlight illustrations. When displayed together, the lights connect from one box to the next, a brilliant salon talking point that looks great on social, too.

RRP from £30.10 salon-services.com

These shampoo and conditioner Wella Professionals gift duos target different issues to improve colour vibrancy, nourishment, and hair strength.

RRP from £22 uk.wella.professionalstore.com

For hair that’s infinitely stronger, Goldwell’s Bond Pro set is a lovingly wrapped Christmas miracle, with a fortifying shampoo, conditioner, and Repair & Structure Spray.

RRP £29 salonsupport@kao.com

Deliver the gift of travel and beautiful hair with ALFAPARF Milano Professional’s Semi di Lino gift boxes. Each one is designed to represent a unique area of Milan, which can be kept and adored long after the products are used.

RRP from £36.75 xpertprofessional.co.uk

Christmas revellers want choice, and Keune’s selection delivers across the board. Not only are there four themes to choose from, but they’re also available in small, medium or large sizes. The large

Therapy, there’s a collection here to please every head.

RRP from £32.95

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All blondes want to shine, particularly over the party season. Thanks to Schwarzkopf

Professional’s BLONDME Gift Bag, they can. Inside, they’ll find a Rich Shampoo and Mask.

RRP £32.50

schwarzkopfpro.com

styling duo gift set. Inside is the best-selling Bodyguard Heat Protect Spray, a perfect pairing with the All Rounder Paddle Brush.

RRP £45 ghdhair.com

Go for gold with a truly luxe offering from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. The Absolut Repair Trio Christmas Coffret is a three-step reparative system infused with gold quinoa and protein that reduces hair surface damage by 77 per cent.

RRP £50

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BABY, IT'S HOT INSIDE

New heated styling tools will

up your retail

Low noise, fast drying, and feather light, the Electric Head Jog Futaria hair dryer is all these things and more. It comes in three chic colours –black, twilight and dusk There’s a cold shot button too!

RRP £119.99 salonsdirect.com

It’s deliciously dark with Cloud Nine this Christmas, thanks to its Luxury Midnight collection. Delivered in a luxe navy case, it includes an Original Iron or Wide Iron, a wet brush and a detangle comb. RRP from £249 cloudninehair.com, howhighbrands.co.uk

POWER TRIP

Janine Jennings, head of education for ghd UK & Ireland, offers her tips on elevating your styling tool retail success at Christmas

Wahl’s matte black precision shaver makes the perfect gift to help your clients maintain a close and smooth shave in between cuts.

RRP £26.99 wahl.co.uk

Clients can glide their way to sleeker, smoother hair in 2024 with ghd’s Dreamland limited edition Glide gift set in Alluring Jade. This brush guarantees healthier looking hair in a few simple strokes.

RRP £169

ghdhair.com

The Neäl & Wølf x Atmos Dry from Diva Professional weighs a quarter of the weight of a typical dryer. It’s an ultra-fast and powerful tool, all without excess noise.

RRP £289.99 divapro.co.uk

Falco is BaByliss PRO’s reimagined hair dryer, delivering a quieter dry. Lightweight too, included are two air concentration attachment nozzles for precise styling and a diffuser for tending to textured hair.

RRP £250

babyliss.com

“Successful retailing hinges on professional guidance, not a hard sell. Engage clients in a conversation about the hairstyle you’re creating. Place the tools you’re using in their hands so they can feel the benefits and educate clients on how to achieve their dream look between salon visits.

“Create a styling station where clients can experiment with self-styling techniques using the tools. This approach is particularly effective with ghd’s new duet style 2-in-1 hot air styler (pictured, above), as clients can see for themselves how easy it is to achieve sleek, smooth and glossy hair from wet to dry with just one tool.

“Emphasise that achieving the perfect look is like a step-by-step haircare regimen, akin to skincare. Educate clients about all the products used to create their desired look. We’ve curated specific product pairings, or ‘power couples’, designed to work together to achieve stunning results. For example, the ghd platinum+ pairs with our heat protector, bodyguard.

“A creative window display will capture your client’s attention. For instance, in the lead-up to Christmas, showcasing the ghd Dreamland collection in your window will attract new customers into your salon. Leverage social media, especially Instagram and TikTok, to boost sales and engage clients. Think of these platforms as a virtual shop window.”

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Adam Garland Session stylist

Czar Joshua Ventura Make-up artist

Darcie Harvey Hairdresser and

Editorial Stylist 2023

Laura Chadwick Session stylist

NEW ON SITE

It may be a time for giving, but think of the planet this Christmas when you’re bedecking your space, planning to party, and adding extra sparkle on the daily. Lorraine Naughton, owner of OB-1 Hair and winner of the Most Wanted 2023 Sustainability Hero award, shares her opinion on making merriment with a watchful eye on extravagance and excess

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WHAT’S ON THE MENU?

We’re back to the ’90s with a colour blocking masterclass delivered by Jordanna Cobella, Wella Professionals colour & trends ambassador

Mission: transformation with a colour, cut and styling masterclass, hosted by Indola ambassadors Andy and Abbey Smith

PLUS PRIZES ARE UP FOR GRABS IN THE CHAT –BE THERE FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN!

For more, scan the QR code or visit creativeheadmag.com/SELFSTYLED-SUNDAYS

HAIR Anne Veck for Anne Veck Oxford, assisted by Emilia Di Nardo and Melissa May. STYLING Anne Veck. MAKE-UP Morgan Defre, assisted by Scarlet Cedano. PHOTOGRAPHY Desmond Murray.

BEHIND THE TREND

Every year, the most popular Most Wanted category in terms of entries is Hair Trend, as stylists and colourists try to encapsulate in a single shot a forward-facing trend that will have clients salivating. From Mondrian and colour blocking to the iconic Purdey cut, this year’s winner, Anne Veck, breaks down the beauty of her trophy-grabbing image

My inspiration was the work of Dutch artist Piet Mondrian. After staying indoors for what felt like an eternity in lockdown, we’re altering the way we think and feel about so many things now… and one of them is our hair colour. While some clients are embracing their natural hair colour, others are making a bold statement. Natural highlights and balayage aren’t going anywhere, but we’re now seeing big blocks of colour on blondes, brunettes and redheads.

In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent paid tribute to Mondrian by designing A-line cocktail dresses that evoked the painter’s abstract canvases. The simple cuts, geometric lines and bold colours gave the designer’s collection a modern feel and proved to be incredibly successful. And lo… the birth of colour blocking! It peaked in the ’60s and ’70s when bright colours were used to express happiness. Since then, the trend has come in and out of fashion with various colour combinations, ranging from pastels to neons. But my winning look is a personal tribute to those two great artists.

My model Monika dares to be different, so for the colour palette I decided to work with pink, blue, yellow and a touch of black to create depth and definition, and make the other colours pop out even more.

Pink is one of the most talked about colours in fashion in the past five years, ranging from neon to pastel. It represents femininity and romance. It’s not threatening or intimidating, it’s youthful but appeals to all age groups. The feel-good factor of these colours is why I’ve chosen them, and they are what the world needs after lockdown!

The Purdey was a great statement hairstyle when it was first created in the ‘70s by John Frieda for Joanna Lumley on The New Avengers. It’s a cult cut that has evolved and is still seen today. A modern take keeps it current and wearable, and this represents confident, successful and sexy women. As the hair is so strong, I decided to keep the styling minimal and neutral. Black dress against black background and BAM! All you see is the hair.

…AND THE WIN!

Winning a competition is always a fantastic feeling – recognition from your peers that your work is inspirational. I’m particularly proud of this shot as it was quite bold. The model absolutely loved the look and kept it for several months. Colour blocking and the Barbie movie are all over social media, and this look ticks all the boxes! When you enter competitions you have to be prepared to lose a lot more often than you win. You must recognise that failure is just another opportunity to learn, not something that devastates you or pushes you back into your comfort zone. Just remember, in the words of the ice hockey star Wayne Gretzky: “You miss 100 per cent of the shots you don’t take.”

THINKING OUT LOUD

IN PERCEPTION, THE ALLILON CREATIVE TEAM EXPLORES THE IMPACT OF THOUGHTS AND EMOTIONS ON BEHAVIOUR, AND THE ASSOCIATED COLOURS OF THOSE BRAIN CHEMICALS THAT SHADE YOUR MOOD – THINK ORANGE FOR ENDORPHINS, PINK FOR DOPAMINE, RED FOR ADRENALINE. WHAT ARE YOU THINKING…?

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW GILBERT

BLURRED LINES BLURRED LINES

ACID RIOT – ONE OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S ESSENTIAL LOOKS A/W23 TRENDS – CHANNELS THE FLUID, INCLUSIVE, CONSTANTLY SHIFTING WORLD OF TODAY’S MOST OVERT TRENDSETTERS AND TASTEMAKERS. WITH HAIR BY NICK IRWIN AND GRACE DALGLEISH, THIS IS ONE FOR THE NON-CONFORMISTS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAFFAELE CARIOU

CUT Nick Irwin. COLOUR Grace Dalgleish.  MAKE-UP Helge Branscheidt. STYLING Fanny Ourevitch.

SCENE SCENE

THE EVENTS AND PARTIES TO BE SEEN AT

MOST WANTED & THE IT LIST AWARDS 2023

Free with this issue of Creative HEAD, you’ll have a stunning supplement showcasing what a brilliant night the finalists and guests of the 2023 Most Wanted & the It List Awards Grand Final had… but do you ever wonder what it looks like from the eyes of the Creative HEAD team? Wonder no more, and enjoy a little look behind the scenes from the crew that spent hours getting everything just right so that nearly 700 people could enjoy an incredible evening at Tate Modern. Thank you, gang!

The Creative HEAD digital team with commercial director Laura Tucker

Creative HEAD’s creative partnership director, Joanna Andersen

Creative HEAD’s Laura MacLeod with Joanna Andersen

Laura MacLeod with Most Wanted team assistant, Imogen Gilbey

Creative HEAD deputy editor Annie May Byrne Noonan testing the podium

Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock celebrates with It List winner Norman Boulton

Most Wanted winner Chris Foster celebrates his double victory

Creative HEAD digital and social assistant Aoife Connell, with digital and social editor Kelsey Dring

Backstage with ghd

THE LAST WORD ON…

THREADS THE LAST WORD ON…

YOU’RE ALREADY ON INSTAGRAM, TWITTER/X, TIKTOK, FACEBOOK… IS THREADS WORTH YOUR TIME TOO?

Made by Meta – home of Facebook and Instagram – Threads promises users a platform with better content management, and is pitched as a direct alternative to the ever-chaotic Twitter – now rebranded as X. In its first week, it saw 100 million sign ups, mainly thanks to the ease of set up. New users, who need an Instagram profile to log on, can kick-start their Threads by populating their account with users whom they already follow on Instagram. However, since that initial flurry, Threads has lost half of its active users. Threads may be currently struggling with retention and active user numbers right now, but Meta hopes increased functionality and a web version could well change that.

And when it comes to getting your brand out there, you’re no doubt already spending tonnes of time and effort on your other profiles, so is it worth starting from scratch on Threads, too?

Using Threads early could help your business stand out, but just be mindful of jumping in before you know the conditions, advises Brad Smith, founder of digital agency Succeed Digital. “Currently, your Threads account is linked to your Instagram account. While you can disable your Threads account, you can’t yet delete it without deleting your Instagram account. Think this through before creating an account for your business.”

Brad also believes Threads is “better at managing content”, meaning posts are more fact checked, which is good news for businesses after consistency and good messaging, especially in the maelstrom that is Twitter/X right now.

Suzie McGill, artistic director at Glasgow’s Rainbow Room International, likes the promise of a more authentic connection with customers that Threads seems to offer. “It will allow salons and stylists to bring them further into their daily routine by

sharing quick posts about what’s going on in the salon. These posts can be more laidback and fun.”

Fergal Doyle, of Fergal Doyle in Bristol, has gathered insights from fellow salon owners and stylists on the upsides of Threads, which includes the potential to create a stronger community. “Threads offers focused networking and is designed to connect professionals within specific industries, so it’s a space where hair professionals can share, learn, and collaborate without the noise of broader platforms.”

Emily Ramplin, social media manager at HOB Salons, likes its simplicity. “Compared with other platforms, Threads feels very uncluttered as there are currently no hashtags or ads.” This, Brad adds, will make “users more likely to see content on the platform as honest and not intrusive”. Social media management is a hefty job. So how can businesses manage the addition of Threads alongside a plethora of other platforms? Look to tech to help you, explains Fergal. “Posting is taxing enough, so try repurpose.io to seamlessly post across multiple platforms at once.”

For the client base builders out there, Casey Coleman, founder of CHAIR Salons, thinks Threads can help here, too. “TikTok has been successful because your timeline is filled with people you follow and people you don’t. Using Threads is the same. Reaching an audience of people who don’t follow you could prove vital to increasing new clients and gaining industry opportunities.”

The fact that Threads can help businesses meaningfully engage with their customers, who increasingly want to feel something from the business they buy from, can only be a good thing. Perhaps it’s a thread that’s worth unspooling for a little experiment before committing fully…

Viralyft for Unsplash