£4.50 SEPTEMBER 2020
In print•online•everywhere!
20TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE
SEPTEMBER 2020 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
it's our birthday
let's rise to the occasion 001_CoverOriginal.indd 2
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ADAM REED, GHD GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR, USED GHD RISE TO CREATE OUR SEPTEMBER COVER LOOK
BIG IT UP
2X MORE VOLUME ROOT TO TIP*
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* Versus naturally dried hair. Images shot before government Covid-19 PPE guidelines changed on 15/08/2020
“THE GHD RISE IS A NEW KIND OF HOT BRUSH THAT GIVES YOU INCREDIBLE, MODERN-LOOKING VOLUME. IT CREATES THE KIND OF HAIR THAT CLIENTS LOVE – GORGEOUSLY GLOSSY, NATURALLY BOUNCY, NOTICEABLY THICKER AND FULL OF TEXTURE”
18/08/2020 14:36
ALL RISE...
* Versus naturally dried hair. Images shot before government Covid-19 PPE guidelines changed on 15/08/2020
FOR GHD’S FIRST 3D VOLUME SMART HOT BRUSH
HAIR ADAM REED, GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR GHD, USING NEW GHD RISE MODEL SOPHIE ROSE BELLINI AT BODY LONDON MAKE-UP TRICIA WOOLSTON USING NARS FASHION SAM CARDER AT STELLA CREATIVE ARTISTS PORTRAITS JON BAKER REPORTAGE HARVEY WILLIAMS-FAIRLEY
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Introducing new ghd rise
A 3D volume smart hot brush that delivers 2x more volume from root to tip* and kind-to-hair styling that lasts all day. Use your rise to create instant, effortless volume, gently lifting up from the roots and gliding smoothly through the lengths to create body and bounce on all hair types and lengths, delivering amazing results every time. Use it to style chic waves, fierce flicks and bombshell curls with speed – and your clients will find it easy to use too. It’s the volumising hair hero they’ve been waiting for!
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208mm “YOU CAN USE GHD RISE ON ANY HAIR TYPE OR STYLE. THE HAIR HAS TO BE 100 PER CENT DRY WHEN YOU’RE USING THE RISE. MAKE SURE THAT YOU HOLD IT IN AT THE ROOT BECAUSE THAT’S WHERE YOU’RE LOOKING FOR VOLUME. LIFT THE HAIR UPWARDS, AWAY FROM THE HEAD, THEN WIND THE RISE BACK DOWN GENTLY ON ITSELF – THAT’S HOW YOU GET THE LIFT. IT’S SO EASY TO USE. CREATE VOLUME FROM THE ROOT, FLICKS FOR FRINGES OR TO ADD BODY THROUGHOUT. WHATEVER YOU WANT, YOU CAN GET IT… QUICKLY!” ADAM REED, GHD GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR
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Reverse FC 218mm
ANEW KIND OF VOLUME
Mega-volumising, kind-to-hair styling doesn’t happen naturally! It’s thanks to ghd’s SMART ultra-zone technology, which spans the rise’s 32mm barrel, intelligently sensing the hair's thickness and your speed of styling, predicting hair's needs and adapting accordingly to maintain a constant, even heat from root to tip. ghd's advanced infinity sensors monitor heat an incredible 250 times per second, guaranteeing you an optimal 185C at all times. Even the 5mm smooth-touch nylon bristles are optimised to ensure the closest possible contact to lift hair from the root, adding body, fullness and bounce with ease and speed.
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
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* Versus naturally dried hair.
ADD GHD ROOT LIFT SPRAY FOR 2.5X MORE VOLUME!*
All rise for the new ghd rise. For more details, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400
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18/08/2020 14:40
When clients miss out on an appointment
When clients book online
Get ready for your bookings to take off Now is the perfect time to set up online appointment booking with Timely! Stagger your appointment start times, add padding time for cleaning after each client, and take part or full online deposits to secure your bookings. Plus, Timely has all the tools and support you need to manage and grow your business post lockdown. Keep track of your clients for contact tracing, host pre-service consultations online, and customise your client communications. Our UK based team has you covered.
Talk to us: +44 20 3808 0465 gettimely.com
Editor’s letter
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WHEN I FIRST sat down with colleagues to discuss ideas to celebrate 20 years of Creative HEAD, it was May 2019 and the world looked very different indeed. Who could have possibly envisioned what would lie ahead, aside from those scary talking heads on Netflix documentaries? Well, here we are… and it’s because there has been precious little to celebrate in recent months that I feel so vehemently that this anniversary issue is needed now more than ever… Let’s look back over those 20 years for the key points – the hairdressing industry has been transformed by digital innovation, most notably the influence of Instagram on sharing work, sourcing inspiration and enticing new customers. And think how your salon can now book bums on seats while you sleep, thanks to the technology on offer. Colour is currently king; yet it was a very different story back at the turn of the Millennium, as our Class of 2000 remembers (see p42). It was a frenzy of creative cutting, while finishing was revolutionised by the advent of a certain special
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hair straightener (we’re looking at you, cover star ghd). The fashion world seemed a distant land to the salon stylist; the support of hair brands at London Fashion Week and design schools changed all that (check out the new issue of Runway for proof!). Now, high street salons across the land have stylists who have been given the opportunity to see that session side of hairdressing, and take those skills and lessons learned back to their utterly impressed clients. And for Creative HEAD, a scrappy little start-up in a big new century, it was about celebrating hairdressers, their work and their businesses in a way that no one had thought to do before – with energy, with passion, and often with tongue planted firmly in cheek (but I’ll let Creative HEAD founder Catherine Handcock tell you all about that when you turn the page!). I joined early in 2008, fresh from a marketing magazine, and this world made my jaw drop. I thought advertising agencies with their limitless expense accounts liked a good
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JOIN US! THERE’S A LOT GOING ON AT CREATIVE HEAD…
This month marks 20 years of Creative HEAD and we, the Special Projects team, are truly honoured to have been part of the journey.
34 time… Ha! An evening with them paled in comparison with pretty much any hair event I attended. And it’s not just that hairdressers like a good time (but we all know you do). It was that they were artistic and creative and fun and hilarious and warm and kind and just so much more interesting than anybody from any other industry I had previously reported on – and that included all things digital in the Dotcom Boom of 2000. And that is precisely why, nearly 13 years later, I’m still here. I’m never bored with you lot – you make me laugh, you’ve made me cry (but in a good way) and you’ve been there when I’ve experienced tough times personally, listening when I needed a shoulder to cry on, as so many of your clients can attest. I know you’ll also be there in the future. And that’s why Creative HEAD will be there too – through tough times and good, ready to help, share, celebrate and support you. There’s no place I’d rather be. Oh man, we have so many people to thank for helping us grow across those two decades – and we couldn’t think of a better way to do it than with a belting 52-page shoot, fusing hair looks, hair talents and many of the people working so feverishly behind the scenes for the past 20 years. We simply couldn’t have done it without them all – and without you. The desperation of clients to get back into hair salons post-lockdown illustrated what I’d already known for some time – that life without hairdressers is a messy, stressy, colourless life indeed. Who would want that?
As purveyors of shoots and events, we couldn’t let this monumental birthday pass without a fanfare. So, over the past 12 months, we’ve been travelling up and down the country to snap some of the treasured faces who have been right beside us over the years. Turn to page 50 for our 20th Anniversary shoot; it’s been a passion project and huge thanks go out to all involved and everyone who has supported us – we wish we could have included so many more! And back to what’s next in events… on Sunday 27 September, Salon Smart’s new digital cousin is in town; Salon Smart Live. Join us as we bring big names and brilliant business ideas directly into your homes and salons via live stream. With a helping hand from our incredible presenter line-up, we will share real-life experiences, bite-sized seminars, workshops and panel debates, giving you the opportunity to hear from and interact with a support network of experts all there to help you navigate the way ahead. Grab your ticket now for just £35+VAT, granting you access to a jam-packed day of business advice and on-demand content for a whole year afterwards. See page 34.
Amanda Nottage, Editor
amanda@alfol.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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Keep up to date with more over at creativeheadmag.com/events
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hion – is like fas he time h c u m .T at – e HEAD single , but th adition nched Creativ n it up. Every and tr n o t e op buil erse e lau sser. To rial, div Y that is s ago w DUSTR why 20 year to be a hairdre , entrepreneu tly represent IN N A n ’s t le been o brillia OURS IS anging. That what it mean valuab to this ork in it and s unch, and it’s sh e ch n te r fi u e e v ib d b re tr w re d fo a o ubli to te acts as rs: to p ople wh a talen d right seeme reative HEAD and to the pe You are such u over the yea u use evolve y e. fC ues yo y of yo s issue o ionate industr he world stag so man ts and techniq different idea een w t s o s n n a o k p d c b to d n u e t n a d v e com a a e g ro g this I h , the p our to at hom excitin it, both rill and an hon sinesses grow rs with their hroughout all d up and be n .T sta th bu both a , watch your those young ustry’s future ngness to sta d to help reli d n ll rk il a a o in w , al e w e e s e r c h it s t u yo g– physic e to nd ra ape f cours ealth a rs both nd darin d re-sh – and o re-define an ’s sincerity a like mental h rm that cove rsation te s, ve ing sly g endles UK hairdress nuanced area s. Wellness, a , as is the con helps to brin g is ay d by h n in w n t k a s e c re s d x u iv d n re le il it a tr s ird ch os le, mp l and p rt of ha p their d in co h peop counte ciety in radica an integral pa ands on’ wit ork; to pick u as hugely ‘h w w o s It , is shape y, we are to get back to themselves. assurance it llbeing industr ntal we re le ut and me lf-care. As an enables peop ng good abo comfort and own. e li e s it kd e h : c t d fe e – n lo c u ld e n ’s r c up aro confide ut into the wo lon experien ring this year o have given ir e h t a u o h s d o w e d iv back g s h e r g en cognis wer of t dresse hool; to rs, and from sc to see the po – finally be re e session hair e past 20 yea lped to break th es he ple ing satisfy so many peo ratitude to all EAD world th so they have d movement g H g to f e in o s e iv o t g u t g an t thank you a eb yd brin the Cre turn. B huge d en dialo es I owe a s time to join to theirs in re ’, creating op But my bigg orking l. u n in -w a io io s n rd c s s a s io e re t h e c p a , c ‘s their inspir ’ and lented e, its events nted a n d e ta n lo d a e a e h ‘s g c t f n in re azin us unp walls betwee hat is refresh m so proud o is mag em is .Ia all to th respect for th n’t have lds t r m ir a o wn the e w o te h t d o D e w A ’s t iv E y o e g Our first issue. Front cover by Gary Hooker for H , tr c h t t s I e u ? uld n iv ou betwee s to the Creat th in, month I know the ind reative HEAD Clynol. Right from the start we wanted to say ‘this n . C e t o f o n o of all g eings, who, m media conte y years . l is a different kind of trade magazine’. b . Twent human ital and socia lly deserved ave wanted to ho dig Ih and its led and it is w d nor would n e a ll a – r a unp t them withou done it
SEPTEMBER 2000
EAD H e v i t a e her, Cr s i l b u P cock, d n a H e Catherin
DEC/JAN 2001/2002
That’s Lee Stafford sat on a TV set. He’d been EVERYWHERE that year, but it was also important that we showed Creative HEAD is a magazine where hairdressers themselves get to be on the front cover.
DEC/JAN 2004/2005
The perfect Christmas cover image? Still gives me beautiful shivers. Hair by Damien Carney for JOICO.
OCTOBER 2003
We called this The Big Issue. I just love this image so much! Hair by Laura Cox at Rush, photography by Alex Ciccini.
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DEC/JAN 2003/2004
I love this image as much today as I did back then. Timeless. Hair by Trevor Sorbie, photography by Trevor Leighton.
SEPTEMBER 2004
We went perfect bound! And celebrated with front AND back covers. Hair by Majirel for L’Oréal Professionnel (left) and Michael Young for Hooker & Young (right).
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DEC/JAN 2005/2006 Just goes to show, you don’t necessarily need hair on the front cover of a hair magazine!
APRIL 2005
DECEMBER 2006
This cover was hand-drawn by our art director, Nick Jabbal. It proved something of a talking point!
This front cover is actually four front covers in one. It was so complex it gave our art director the creative equivalent of PTSD!
SEPTEMBER 2005
OCTOBER 2007
Hair by Josh Wood for Wella Professionals and photographed by a good friend of mine, Mike Diver.
Birthday number 5!
OCTOBER 2008
FEBRUARY 2013
This was a shoot organised by Creative h. HEAD for Wella Professionals Color Touc too! book table ee coff a ed creat We
APRIL 2012
the photographer Jon Baker, and We have a long-standing collaboration with nality of the Matrix brand alive. teamed up with him here to bring the perso
SEPTEMBER 2010 Birthday number 10!
At 260 pages, our biggest-ever issue, and, with the inside featuring different paper stocks, folds and specialist inks, one of my favourites. Hair by the Sebastian Cult Team, photography by Donald Christie.
2018 JULY/AUGUSTcksta ge at SEPTEMBER 2015
Birthday number 15!
MARCH 2017
I love this shoot featuring the fabulous team at Salon Success. A great illustration of how important people and relationships are in this industry.
This image, shot ba phy Final the L’Oréal Colour Tro Adam Reed, that year with hair by nch. l packs a powerfu pu
MAY/JUNE 2020
We produced this issue working from home, during lockdown. I was so proud of the team and the fact we kept going.
AND FINALLY…
Runway magazine was the first time we – anyone! – had shone a ma jor spotlight on the talents working backsta ge at the international fashion weeks.
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TIVE HEAD A E R
WHAT’S INSIDE
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ON THE COVER
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CLASS OF 2000
We look back with some iconic names at the year 2000, where it all began for Creative HEAD
IT’S OUR BIRTHDAY…
50
… and we have created a very special shoot to celebrate!
Hair by Adam Reed, global brand ambassador for ghd, using new ghd rise. Makeup by Tricia Woolston using NARS. Fashion by Sam Carder at Stella Creative Artists. Model Sophie Rose Bellini at Body London. Photography by Jon Baker. YO U R E SS E N TI A L GU I D E TO T H E N E W S E A SO N
RU N WAY
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IN THE FRAME
The Creative HEAD Special Projects team have been everywhere
AUTUMN WINTER 2020 C RE ATIVEHE ADM AG.COM
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EDITOR
DIGITAL DESIGNER
DEPUTY EDITOR
ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT
BELLA PETERS
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
ALISON ROWLEY
PUBLISHER
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA
STAFF WRITER
ANNA SAMSON
ART DIRECTOR
ADAM WOOD
EVA VESTMANN
KELSEY DRING
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JENNY BROOKS
JOANNA ANDERSEN
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
DAVID HAMMOND
creativeheadmag.com
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SPECIAL PROJECTS ASSISTANT
creativeheadmagofficial
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, PO Box 289, Hexham, NE46 9HJ 01434 610416 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
07/08/2020 11:31
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
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ai157917704448_INFINITI_CH_RHP.pdf
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The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
Salons must ‘follow rules or face closure’
PHIL SMITH JOINS SALON SMART LIVE PLEASE WELCOME TO the stage Phil Smith! The award-winning hairdresser has joined the roster of successful and inspiring business owners for our Salon Smart Live event, a packed day of educational content on Sunday 27 September. With more than 35 years in the industry, Phil is widely renowned for his business acumen that spans products, a stunning Salisbury salon, celebrity clientele, styling for high-profile magazines and presenting at international events. Creative HEAD has transformed its gamechanging business networking event into a virtual, one-day live event beamed directly to your screens. Expect the usual incredible line-up of business mavens and icons, all in a new on-screen format to watch from the comfort of your own home. And the learning doesn’t stop there – each ticket allows the user to rewatch all sessions as much as they want for up to a year, meaning more time to tune in and swot up! Tickets cost £35+VAT, and are available now. For more information, turn to page 34.
GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS have warned that they will close the hair and barbering sector if businesses do not follow safety guidelines, following the tougher PPE measures put in place in England last month. The latest changes include the requirement for all hair and beauty professionals to wear both a type II face mask and a visor while working. While generally businesses working in the hair and beauty industry have been doing all they can to follow the guidance, there is ongoing evidence of professionals not wearing the correct PPE, not adhering to social distancing, and still operating walk-in services. Local authorities have been given additional powers to close businesses where the rules aren’t being followed. The NHBF has been told by government sources that failure by the industry to comply will result in the hair and beauty sector being closed down, prompting the NHBF to launch its #DoItRight campaign. This is to ensure hair, barbering and beauty professionals across the UK understand exactly what is required of them to keep working and to stay safe. The Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (BEIS) issued a statement to the NHBF which said all businesses are at risk of receiving formal action from local authorities if they do not follow their risk assessments. Failure to comply with an enforcement notice from a local authority could lead to prosecution in the criminal courts and penalties including fines or up to two years’ imprisonment. “The last thing any of us want is to face further restrictions, further lockdowns or a second spike in infections,” says Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHBF. “The impact on our industry would be devastating. Please do your bit to help and show you’re putting the industry first.”
Tackle damaged hair with the force of nature. Aveda’s new vegan Botanical Repair collection is a full range powered by plant-derived technology to repair and reinforce three key layers of hair – multiplying bonds and smoothing the cuticle to prevent further damage. Ideal for all hair types needing a bit of TLC! aveda.co.uk
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REDEFINE COLOUR EXPECTATIONS Boost colour performance and outcomes with transformative processing technology. Roller Ball F halves processing time, intensifies results and increases the value of your colour business.
www.takarahairdressing.co.uk
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FREELANCERS GET CASH LIFELINE SELF-EMPLOYED HAIRDRESSERS are now able to apply for a second support grant from the government. Payments of up to £6,570 per person will be the final grant for freelance business operators, according to Rishi Sunak, Chancellor of the Exchequer. HMRC recorded almost 40,000 successful claims within the first hour and a half of the scheme opening. If you haven’t been contacted by HMRC and believe yourself to be eligible, go online to find out more. Visit Gov.uk and search ‘covid-19 grant’.
SMARTBOND SALES HALTED SALES OF SMARTBOND Step 1 by L’Oréal Professionnel have been halted in the UK following a court ruling. The court order stated that the High Court of England and Wales held that L’Oréal’s Smartbond Step 1 infringed on the patent held by Olaplex for the same bonding technology. The judgement was upheld at the Court of Appeal and, as a result, L’Oréal Professionnel is unable to continue with sales of Smartbond Step 1 in the UK. The company responded on social media: “Whilst L’Oréal is disappointed and strongly disagrees with the decision of the Court, it will comply with the ruling.”
Landmark ruling for selfemployed hairdressers A SELF-EMPLOYED HAIRDRESSER has won the right to claim for notice, holiday and redundancy pay in an employment tribunal, which will have lasting implications on future freelance disputes. Meghan Gorman (pictured), from Clitheroe in Lancashire, successfully argued her contract as a self-employed hairdresser within a salon featured restrictions that effectively made her a salon employee. Meghan worked at a Terence Paul salon in Manchester until its closure in 2019, where she claimed hours were set by the salon and that it kept 67 per cent of her takings. She also claimed she had to seek permission for treatments she could offer clients and when she could take holiday. Judith Fiddler, founding director of Direct Law & Personnel consultancy in Manchester, said: “The whole hairdressing industry will be affected by this decision. The significance is huge, as many who think they are self-employed are actually not.”
75%
of participants working within the health and beauty sector plan to accelerate their digital transformation plans, according to a report by Cheil UK. This is well above the national average of 44 per cent. Plans include optimising online performance, investing in new tech in-salon and e-commerce.
LOOK GOOD, FEEL BETTER EXTENDS SERVICE TO HAIR THE CHARITY Look Good, Feel Better has announced a new series of virtual workshops and styling sessions, including hair services for the first time. The charity, which has been helping to rebuild the physical and emotional wellbeing of people undergoing cancer treatments for more than 25 years, is including new sessions covering haircare, wigs and scarf styling. The sessions tackle all kinds of haircare and headwear concerns in collaboration with ‘The Hair Loss Coach’ Jasmin Gupta, founder of charity Cancer Hair Care.
SIMON FORBES, 1949 – 2020 Simon Forbes, founder of the iconic Antenna salon in Kensington and pioneer of synthetic hair, has passed away, aged 70. He was a king of the ’80s club kid scene, whose acrylic hair creations were worn by everyone from Boy George to Madonna. At Antenna the surreal was real, thanks to his love of synthetic creations and heat-bonding techniques.
MY month
AHEAD
What September has in store for... KATIE ALLAN
MAYFIVE
We have a Creative Day booked in for early September. Conscious of the team losing their creative spark as we worked through the backlog of clients, I wanted them to have something to look forward to. I’ve organised a photographer and given each team member free rein!
KEVIN PAUL FINNELL F&M HAIRDRESSING
We’re turning our focus to Christmas, putting into place a new way of working during the festive period in the event of social distancing still being in place. We want to make sure we can accommodate the huge volume of clients we expect – we’re celebrating our 40th anniversary, so we have plenty of experience.
KERRY MATHER KJM SALONS
We’re getting into the party mood as September is all about 30 fabulous years of KJM Salons! This month, the team and I were meant to be jetting off on a four-day trip to Marbella, but unfortunately we’ve had to postpone until next year. We might not be relaxing on a sun-drenched beach, but our spirit won’t be dampened.
READY, SET, GO! THE WELLA PR YOU A FINALIST? M OFESSIONALS TRENDVISION DIGITAL AKE SU UK & AS LATE SUBMISSIONRE YOU CREATE YOUR FINAL LOOK ANIRELAND FINAL OPENS FOR FINALIST EN D UP TR S WILL NOT BE JUDG ED. WINNERS WILL LOAD YOUR DIGITAL TASK BEFORE 23 IES 8 SEPTEMBER. ARE BE REVEALED ON 21 SE OCTOBER – GOOD LUPTEMBER, 14 CK! 012-014_News.indd 2
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Salon - Cutting Edge Features - Creative Head - PRINT.pdf
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The new Silver Shine Gift Set from Great Lengths is a treat for blonde clients looking to keep hair fresh, vibrant and conditioned.
Power up with the new generation 10,000rpm Atmos dryers from Diva Professional – light and quiet with a luxury hair conditioning system and a unique replaceable, customisable sleeve that will blow you away. RRP FROM £175 020 3393 9072
Inspired by Goldwell’s GoBeyond collection, there are new shades joining the @Elumenated range including Topchic, Colorance Express and @Pure Pigments for cool pinks, lavenders, brunette and mint shades.
IN-SALON SERVICE 020 3540 1200 goldwell.com
divapro.co.uk
New from Pulp Riot comes Interstellar, a permanent depositonly collection from its Faction8 range. Matthew McConaughey not included, sadly.
IN-SALON SERVICE AVAILABLE AT WHOLESALERS INCLUDING ASTON & FINCHER AND SALONS DIRECT pulpriothair.com
From deep chestnut to chocolate truffle, brunette hues scream shiny, healthy hair – so reach for new ASP INFINITI b:BROWN to get the gloss.
Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
Women are now hunting out youth-preserving products from an earlier age than ever before – so it’s no wonder Kérastase has revamped its Chronologiste range, a line-up that targets the issues of an ageing scalp, such as dryness, sensitivity and hair thinning. Skincare wonder ingredients (think hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and abyssine) feature to create some impressive stats: with the five-strong Chronologiste range, clients can expect hair that’s six-times shinier with 48 hours of anti-frizz fabulousness. RRP FROM £29.90 0845 600 0122 kerastase.co.uk
RRP £42 0113 278 1292 greatlengths.com
Nude Powder Spray from AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT is a fine powder that adds instant lived-in volume, movement to dry hair and a soft grip.
RRP £24.90 0800 328 6920 authenticbeautyconcept.com
Let’s cool things down with new shades from DIA Light from L’Oréal Professionnel, all delivering cool, clean finishes. IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 030 4034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527 111 asphair.com
Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ just got even more… Well, perfect. The addition of four new shades to the Pure Naturals range ventures into new territory with Resistant Cool Cover, delivering 100 per cent coverage and intense cool tones.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 601 8128 wella.com
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Meet Kemon, a family-owned Italian brand that has just landed at Salon Success! It’s a range of The new and expanded Schwarzkopf Professional Fibre sustainable, high-performing colour Clinix collection allows you to mix-and-match products and care products – we love the and boosters to create the perfect cocktail for each client. ammonia-free Yo Color System.
HOMECARE RRP FROM £17 0800 526 741 schwarzkopfpro.com
IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 659 0011 salon-success.co.uk/kemon
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STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS All rise for the new tool from ghd that will revolutionise how you style! If you love to curl with ghd wands and tongs, you’ll love this. If you simply adore the ghd glide for its incredible smooth finish, then you’ll really love this. The ghd rise takes all of the best parts of its existing roster of tools and refines them for 3D volume and an incredibly shiny, soft-touch finish. The 32mm barrel is studded with 5mm nylon bristles that use the same SMART technology as the ghd platinum+ to keep the temperature at a constant 185˚C. It’s these bristles that are the secret weapon of the rise, according to ghd UK brand ambassador Zoë Irwin. “The length is so important – they’re not long enough to tangle, but they are long enough to give hold,” she explains. Just as with the glide, Zoë considers the rise as a brush rather than a tong, thanks to how easy it is to use and its supreme versatility. It’s her new favourite go-to on set, whether she’s building body in the roots or using to curl and smooth hair through the length. For any clients who struggle to put a curl in using straighteners or wands, give them the ghd rise and let the magic happen.
RRP £169 01924 423 400 ghdhair.com
IT’S ALL ABOUT... RECOVERY Biolage Exquisite Oil is a multi-tasking replenisher that can be used as a pre-shampoo treatment, popped on ends for an overnight treat and applied to damp hair for heat protection.
RRP £16.95 AVAILABLE AT WHOLESALERS INCLUDING ALAN HOWARD matrixhaircare.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
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The iconic duo of damaged hair wonders – JOICO K-PAK and K-PAK Color Therapy – have had a serious makeover for 2020. With smarter colour and damage technology, hair looks like new after just one use.
RRP FROM £23.95 0845 071 2326 joico.eu
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WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER?
I have been interested in hair since I was about three years old, and I have always liked creating different styles on dolls’ heads over the years. I quickly realised that there were few salons around that catered for my Afro-Caribbean hair so I have a keen interest in developing my skills in this area.
LEONIE CLARKE AGE: 20 WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? One has to be my trip to Vienna last year for the Global Zoom event with Goldwell. My boss Simon has put me forward for some great opportunities, including working with Gok Wan on his One Size Fits All Live show. And winning Hairdressing Apprentice of the Year at the QSA Apprenticeship Awards was really special, too. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I would love to have achieved success like Simon Constantinou and have my own salon to provide the same opportunities to employees that Simon has offered me.
@curvymodel87
SALON: SIMON CONSTANTINOU
Gok Wan
WHAT’S YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? I am happy with what I have achieved so far and grateful for the opportunities that I have been given. But I have definitely been inspired by the glamour of Goldwell Color Zoom, so I would love to do some competition work and more catwalk shows.
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18/08/2020 12:15
BACK TO THE FUTURE Introducing the revamped JOICO K-PAK & K-PAK Color Therapy, the ultimate damaged hair hero collections. The iconic regimens have been updated and what’s inside has been supercharged‌
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With more than four decades of healthy hair history behind it, you’d think the team at JOICO would be pretty happy to work with what they’ve got. Not so – the iconic K-PAK collection, a staple for so many JOICO artists and stylists across the globe, has been revamped for 2020. And you don’t need to choose between hair health and supreme colour results – JOICO K-PAK Color Therapy also has a new look and new technology. You can never get too much of a good thing! The much-loved JOICO K-PAK formulas have enjoyed a serious upgrade for the new decade, and are supercharged to rescue and restore damaged locks to their former glory. Expect dazzling shine, a healthylooking finish and improved texture from the off. The improvement is powered by the latest upgrade in JOICO’s SmartRelease liposome technology, which allows for continual repair, strength and protection exactly where the hair needs it the most. In just four simple steps you can transform your clients’ hair with backbar treatments designed to reconstruct, rebuild and protect damaged tresses for a remarkably healthy-looking result. The in-salon Hair Repair System treatments work deep within the hair shaft to enhance the performance of all colour, perming and straightening services you might be using. After just one use the hair looks and feels incredible, giving almost three-times stronger hair.*
Take a closer look
Innovative JOICO SmartRelease technology features key ingredients that pack a serious punch to tame hair… • Keratin to help replace lost proteins in the hair structure
• Guava fruit extract to protect hair against free radicals, UV damage and aid styling
• Evening primrose oil full of omega-6 and gamma-linolenic essential fatty acids to help nourish hair back to health
• JOICO SmartRelease Technology is a one-of-a-kind liposome delivery system to continuously provide hair with a steady stream of rosehip oil, arginine and keratin to help repair, strengthen and protect hair from cumulative daily damage Intrigued? Of course you are. Meet the superheroes that will amp up your salon experience…
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VE RT OR IAL CR EATIV E HE AD AD
NEW SEASON,
NEW LOOKS JOICO K-PAK & K-PAK Color Therapy have long been the secret weapons for stylists dealing with damaged hair. With a new look and upgraded formulations, prepare to be blown away all over again… Joico 6ppRollfold 2.indd 1
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GOLDEN
DAYS
These are the good guys who are ready to defend your colour work and immaculate styling efforts. Send clients home with a squad that keeps hair on point at all times
K-PAK Clarifying Shampoo
Clear the way for bouncy, shiny, healthy-looking locks with this deeply detoxifying shampoo. It rescues hair from hard water, chlorine, pollutants and styling products without stripping.
K-PAK Reconstructing Shampoo
Call on this gentle shampoo to support and fortify weak strands to help prevent future damage.* Its formula improves elasticity, strength and shine.
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K-PAK Reconstructing Conditioner
This restorative conditioner targets damage and dryness and fires back with shine, strength and manageability where it’s needed most.
K-PAK Reconstructor
A five-minute treatment that turbocharges amino acids and JOICO’s smart keratin technology to transform hair and leave it instantly looking healthier.
K-PAK Liquid Reconstructor
This cocktail of amino acids and keratin technology repairs and strengthens hair stands on contact. This convenient spray is ideal for fine and fragile hair.
K-PAK RevitaLuxe
A magical treatment that can repair years of damage in moments to leave hair feeling luxuriously pampered, silky-smooth and stronger from root to tip.
K-PAK Hydrator
Cool things off for extra-dry and over-processed hair. This intensely hydrating home treatment will have thirsty locks replenished, sealing in the cuticles for touchably soft hair.
18/08/2020 14:47
& LOADED
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
LOCKED
Why should specialised colour protection mean missing out on the power of K-PAK? You don’t need to choose when it comes to shimmering condition and supreme colour – JOICO K-PAK Color Therapy’s revamped look and new technology locks in vibrant colour. The powerful combination of African manketti and argan oils is what helps to give coloured hair an incredible finish. JOICO SmartRelease liposome technology makes an appearance here too, for a one-two punch to blow clients away with beautiful colour vibrancy and diminished damage. Expert colour deserves expert care, which is why K-PAK Color Therapy doesn’t skimp on formulations that both protect colour results and keep out damage. Regular use of the homecare line results in maintenance of more than 82 per cent of hair colour for up to eight weeks, while delivering nine-times stronger hair and twice the shine. Lacklustre colour will be on the ropes…
K-PAK Color Therapy Color-Protecting Shampoo
Gentle on colour-treated hair, it helps to extend the life of your clients’ colour, keeping it vibrant and fighting back against future damage.**
Provides a shield around your hard work, it boosts shine, hydrates hair, improves elasticity and can double hair resistance to breakage.***
K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock
K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock MultiPerfector
A one-shot wonder treatment to colour vibrancy, it offers a mirror-like shine and encourages stronger locks with less breakage.
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K-PAK Color Therapy Color-Protecting Conditioner
This silky leave-in treatment gives a powerful shield against styling stress, thermal and UV damage.
*Against combing breakage on damaged hair versus a non-conditioning shampoo. **Maintains more than 82 per cent of hair colour after 18 washes. Damage protection when used with K-PAK Color Therapy Conditioner; against combing breakage on damaged hair versus a non-conditioning shampoo. ***Against combing breakage on damaged hair versus a non-conditioning shampoo, when used with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo & Conditioner.
Suit up – it’s time to protect your clients’ colour with new-look JOICO K-PAK Color Therapy!
18/08/2020 14:47
GLOW THE
DISTANCE Meet the new addition to the K-PAK Color Therapy line, ready to save the day
K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock Glossing Oil
For the ultimate in gleaming, glossy locks! This is hair’s equivalent of the ‘glass skin’ trend in skincare for incredible shine and vibrancy. Light enough for fine hair yet deeply nourishing for thicker tresses, its oil blend delivers on wow-factor in a BIG way. But the results go further than that. It helps to preserve more than 85 per cent of hair colour, protects against pollutants, delivers strength and smoother texture. Ensure your colour work glows the distance…
NEW!
DISCOVER HOW THE RE�IMAGINED JOICO K�PAK AND K�PAK COLOR THERAPY RANGES CAN BREATHE FRESH LIFE INTO YOUR SALON AND RETAIL BUSINESS. VISIT JOICO.EU OR SPEAK TO JOICO EXPERTS: ALANHOWARD.CO.UK LACEYSHAIRSUPPLIES.CO.UK SALONCONCEPTS.CO.UK
#JOICONIC
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#CHedit
Inside story SIMI HAIRLAB KING’S CROSS
London’s King’s Cross is an example of how an area can be utterly transformed in a short space of time, with Google, Universal Music and Central Saint Martins among its modern residents. Well you’ll also find this little gem, a fresh space from founder Michela Pezza, a former member of the Aveda Pro Team based at the brand’s famous Lifestyle Salon & Spa in Covent Garden. You’ll still find Aveda on the shelves here, which is fitting; the inspiration behind the space is to share with clients an environment where they can totally relax from their routine. It’s helped by the natural, warm colours of the unpolished interiors, the raw wooden shelves and the intense green of the chairs and plants. An important component is the choice of music and aroma. “They are essential parts of the salon for an even more involving experience,” says Michela. A favourite area is the lounge corner; the choice of tiles and the terracotta colour of the room, alongside a glass extension that bathes clients with natural light, “brings you almost to a Mediterranean place”, she smiles.
HOT BUYS
now open
INNOVATION STATIONS
Look across the past 20 years of innovation from Takara Belmont and it’s hard to select just one favourite piece, but the YUME DX might get our vote – it’s the pinnacle in luxurious backwash experiences. It cocoons clients in sublime comfort, automatically manoeuvres them into the perfect position while giving salons the scope to expand their service menus. From £10,295 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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TINTED WESTCLIFF-ON-SEA Colour specialist Claire Turner’s new home offers a cool slate grey palette that lets her Goldwell colour work really do the talking.
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20/08/2020 15:32
IS GOVʼT FINANCIAL SUPPORT ENOUGH? THE BUSINESS EDIT
YOU’LL HAVE A better understanding now, two months or so after reopening, of just how your business has weathered the Covid-19 storm thus far. With a plethora of financial support initiatives on offer, were salon and barber shop owners happy with the help they’ve received? “Applying for the grant initially was a bit of a learning curve,” admits Sandra Pajak, financial director at Headquarters in Kingston-Upon-Thames. “But it’s been straightforward and each month we’ve received the grant six days after applying.” The change to the furlough scheme has also allowed more flexibility since July, allowing the salon to put staff on a combination of part-time work and part-time furlough. “That enabled us to have everyone back in for almost all their contracted hours during the early weeks of July when
demand was huge, and then it’s allowed us to place some staff back on part-time furlough when it’s been quieter,” she says. However, Bad Apple founder Gavin Mills says it could have been flexed further: “Our busiest period is Fridays and Saturdays, so furloughing staff for a week at a time means you can’t have them in on the weekend. We should be able to do it day by day.” And in an industry where most salon owners are company directors paid by dividend, a huge number have fallen between the cracks. Gavin adds: “While staff could either be furloughed or claim support, owners were left high and dry.” “Directors have living costs too and the government’s response to us was to ‘take out a loan’. We all know that paying back loans eats into cashflow,” adds Alan Simpson, founder of Contemporary Hairdressing.
H … NEED A LITTLE KNOW-HOW TO NAVIGATE AND GROW YOUR BUSINESS? FREDDIE BANKS, GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND FOR KÉRASTASE AND SHU UEMURA ART OF HAIR, IS HERE TO SHARE SOME INSIDER KNOWLEDGE…
MARCELLO MOCCIA ROOM97 CREATIVE HAIRDRESSING, LEEDS We’d opened a new £350,000 store just four days before lockdown. We applied for support through the government’s Bounce Back Loan Scheme (BBLS), which we received through Barclays. We launched an online store and that has been a success. We also operate an academy in partnership with Barnsley College, and we ensured all 15 students had the necessary IT equipment to continue studying. The BBLS money was crucial to investment and turnover is now expected to reach £750,000 this year.
CREATE A CELEBRATION MINDSET
Happy birthday Creative HEAD! Who doesn’t love to celebrate important moments in life? Even if you are facing turbulent times, adapting a ‘celebration mindset’ both personally and professionally is something I have always found beneficial for everyone. But what is a ‘celebration mindset’? It is about consistently acknowledging when something good happens in your business and celebrating it. This can be any win, no matter how big or small, and it doesn’t have to be celebrated in an extravagant way. It can be a shoutout in a team meeting, but you should recognise it nonetheless. But why should this be important to your salon? Ever heard the saying ‘success breeds success’? I’ve always found that celebrating success helps to reinforce that winning behaviour and mindset, not only with your team but also personally to train your brain to see yourself as someone who IS successful, not someone who is trying to be successful. But, if you don’t celebrate,
you are training your brain to normalise everything and therefore nothing ever becomes extra special to encourage you to continue striving. If everything you do feels ‘average’ you will eventually stop giving it your all, which can then lead to a drop in results. I’ve also found making time to bring everyone together to celebrate as a team can really ignite this ‘celebration mindset’, as not only will it help to enhance closeness among the team, but it also inspires the team to do more great things. Finally, celebration makes everyone feel great – and nobody gets tired of that! I encourage you and your teams to adopt a ‘celebration mindset’ and that every great day, every delighted client and every success in your salon is given the recognition it deserves.
WHY HAVE A CELEBRATION MINDSET?
ü Celebrating successes leads to more success. ü You will inspire the team onto new heights ü It feels great!
WANT TO KNOW HOW YOU CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS WITH KéRASTASE? CALL 0800 085 4958 OR VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK 20
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:33
#BusinessEdit
RENTING: DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT
DO YOU HAVE chair, space or room renters? If so, you must make sure you don’t treat renters as employees – otherwise you may become involved in a legal claim. Chair, space and room renters are selfemployed individuals who run their own businesses, says NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “Their business is completely separate from yours and they must keep their own accounts, pay their own tax, have their own insurance and build up their own client list,” she says. “It’s important to understand you cannot tell your renter which hours to work, what to charge, how to dress, which products to offer or how to market their business.” It’s vital to have a watertight legal agreement in place which clearly sets out how the arrangement will work – and you must stick to what the agreement says. NHBF members can download free renting agreements at nhbf.co.uk/agreements
Combat cyberattacks Criminals have been exploiting the coronavirus crisis to carry out cyberattacks and online fraud against businesses across the UK. For example, sending out emails claiming to be from trusted organisations such as banks or HMRC. “Stay alert,” says NHBF finance director Kishon Mather. “Use anti-virus software, always backup your data, and look out for fake emails. Warning signs that an email might be fake include poor spelling, emails addressed to a ‘friend’ or ‘colleague’ and warnings that you must ‘act urgently’ or ‘within 24 hours’.” Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/cyber-threats
CREATIVE HEAD
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MAKE SURE YOU STAY OPEN FOR BUSINESS
AS SALONS AND barber shops get back to business it’s vital to keep strict measures in place to guard against spreading coronavirus, says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “Not only will this protect your staff and clients, but it will also reduce the risk of being closed down again.” “Don’t let your guard down,” adds Hilary. “In particular, the extra addition of type II face masks plus wearing face visors is important because they protect you from droplets you can’t see being passed between you and your clients. Following advice on face masks and visors, regular handwashing, social distancing and rigorous cleaning procedures will all help to stop the virus spreading.” Serious breaches of health and safety law and failure to comply with enforcement notices can amount to a criminal offence, with serious fines and even imprisonment for up to two years, warns Hilary. “In addition, the government guidelines would be taken into account by your local authority and the Health and Safety Executive when deciding if you have complied with health and safety law.” The NHBF has produced a compliance checklist that can be downloaded free by NHBF members at nhbf.co.uk/compliance-checklist
Get set for Making Tax Digital MAKING TAX DIGITAL (MTD) is to be extended from April 2022 to cover more businesses. “MTD already requires certain businesses to keep digital (electronic) VAT records and file VAT returns using MTD-compatible software,” says NHBF finance director Kishon Mather. “However, from April 2022, VAT-registered businesses that are below the threshold will also have to go digital. Then, from April 2023, businesses with an income of more than £10,000 who use the Self Assessment tax system will be required to file their tax returns via MTD.” Affected businesses are not expected to take any immediate action as further consultation is planned. The government wants to ensure that businesses have plenty of time to prepare for MTD. Its eventual aim is to have a fully digital tax system. Find out more about how MTD works at nhbf.co.uk/MTD
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20/08/2020 15:34
TOGETHER, STRONGER THAN EVER
ALL EYES ARE ON KÉRASTASE AND ITS PARTNER SALONS. ITS BIGGEST AD CAMPAIGN TO DATE IS DRIVING FRESH FACES STRAIGHT TO SALONS FOR THOSE SERVICES THEY’VE MISSED SO MUCH “At Kérastase we have always focused on supporting our partner salons and this has been even more pertinent in the past few months. To further help and support our partners, this summer we launched our biggest national TV campaign for Kérastase Blond Absolu, to celebrate women being able to go #BLONDEAGAIN. “We also focused on promoting in-salon services, to help salons bounce back after lockdown. As always you can also reach out to your business partner for advice or take part in our complimentary live education sessions to build your knowledge further. “We wish you and your teams well as you get your businesses back on track, and remain with you in solidarity as we navigate the future.”
FREDDIE BANKS, GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND, KÉRASTASE
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AN ABSOLU PINNACLE IN COLOUR CARE Blond Absolu, Kérastase’s first range for lightened hair that provides both care and neutralisation, is only a year old but has made a serious splash with customers. With its ultra-violet treatments and intensely nourishing formulas, the range soon became a cult item both in and out of salons. This year Kérastase continues its love for blondes, leveraging the range to encourage women back into salons, with it quickly becoming one of the most loved collections from the brand and cementing itself as the range to increase your retail portfolio. A beautiful, empowering campaign for Blond Absolu debuted on national TV in summer, fuelling women’s love for the range and calling them back into salon to experience Kérastase’s luxury professional haircare.
CREATIVE HEAD
18/08/2020 12:56
WE SPOKE TO SALON OWNERS WHO HAVE SEEN AN AMAZING REACTION TO KÉRASTASE BLOND ABSOLU
RATED 4.6 STARS BY STYLISTS AND CLIENTS*
“The Kérastase Blond Absolu family has been developed to perfection and caters for all blondes.”
GORKA ARRARAS
CHARLES WORTHINGTON, LONDON
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
SWITCH IT UP
BOOST YOUR BILL
SALON OWNERS ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR DIFFERENT WAYS TO ADD ENJOYABLE – AND PROFITABLE – SERVICES TO THEIR CUSTOMER’S EXPERIENCE. WE SAT DOWN TO CHAT WITH SALLY MONTAGUE, FOUNDER OF THE SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP IN DERBYSHIRE, ABOUT WHAT SHE IS DOING TO BOOST BUSINESS Creative HEAD: What opportunities are there for salons when it comes to services? Sally Montague: The past few months have given us a chance to reinvent some of the services that we offer, and we worked hard throughout lockdown to make sure we were ready to go. We have certainly found that our clients want new style inspiration, new colour – some have opted for grey blending – and a real overhaul of their hair health and look. CH: What percentage of your clients are having services and how have you seen this change since reopening the salon? SM: We had a 23 per cent increase across the salon group in services in July. Kérastase Fusio Dose has proved the most popular, as clients really want to improve and restore the health and feel of their hair. There has also been a surge in buying homecare – we delivered haircare to our clients throughout lockdown and have found that has made people loyal to the salon. CH: How are you using services to get business back on track? SM: We explained to our stylists why the client experience needs to be maximised and why everyone needs to understand the benefits of a personalised treatment, especially with lots of clients searching for a change and for inspiration.
“Blond Absolu is our best-selling Kérastase product – it’s a game-changer for our clients.”
ZOË HYNES
*Average 4.6 rating from 295 reviews at kerastase.co.uk
THE HAIR SPA, THORNTON LODGE, THE WIRRAL
CH: How are you marketing your services? SM: We communicated regularly with our client base when we were closed and got our salon group newspaper ready for reopening. This featured a focus on care, from home hair hacks to new treatments available and wellbeing tips. We also have a monthly ‘Hero Treatment’, a service combined with a retail item to make sure we are back with a bang.
KÉRASTASE STAR SERVICES
GENESIS, KÉRASTASE’S LATEST INNOVATION TO REDUCE HAIR-FALL DUE TO BREAKAGE
“I knew Kérastase would impact the salon positively but a 70 per cent increase in retail in the first month has exceeded our expectations.”
JOHNNY SECKINGTON
SECKINGTONS, NORTHAMPTON AND MILTON KEYNES
FUSIO-DOSE: Treat and transform hair instantly with bespoke care from 30 different combinations. K-WATER: A treatment using lamellar technology for intensely shiny, lightweight hair. FUSIO SCRUB: A deep purifying cleanse for hair and scalp providing shine, volume and long-lasting freshness.
DISCOVER HOW THE KÉRASTASE BLEND OF LUXURY AND CUTTING-EDGE FORMULATIONS CAN BOOST YOUR TREATMENTS AND RETAIL BUSINESS. VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK OR CALL 0845 600 0122 CREATIVE HEAD
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#BusinessEdit
LIFE LESSONS
KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE?
LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
With the new normal set in place, how would you advise creating a more luxury experience when we are unable to provide our guests with such things as refreshments and magazines, and we’re all behind PPE?
WASIF KHAN HAIR LOUNGE 47
Failure to plan is planning to fail. As clichéd as it may sound, all too often we are ‘too busy’ to plan, instead we react to problems. Planning gives us the opportunity to think, set goals and then review.
The personal qualities of your team are just as important as skills. Sometimes we can focus too much on recruiting staff with an incredible skill set and big salon experience. The focus should also be on the applicants set of values, attitude, team work ethic and personality.
Risk management is key. Identify potential risks and then devise measures to deal with those risks, such as key staff leaving, so you are not caught like a deer in the headlights if they occur.
Think big, have a vision and encourage your team to believe. People looked at me as if I was delusional when I set out to have the same quality as London salons but in a welcoming village. I stayed true to my vision and encouraged my team to believe. Now we are an award-winning salon. 24
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ESTHER VAN DER VEKEN, TOMMY’S HAIR COMPANY
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS At time of press, most of the challenges we are facing are set to be with us for many months to come. Some of the practices we are now being forced to adopt may, and probably should, remain with us forever. We are already beginning to see white space creeping into appointment books as the pentup demand for post-lockdown hairdressing is being satisfied. What we are also seeing is that many of the clients we were expecting to see return are choosing not to. This is for many reasons. Some have found alternative solutions for their hairdressing needs but some have chosen not to return because they still feel unsafe, nervous or apprehensive. Many of us can empathise with those feelings even though we need them to return to our businesses. So how does that answer your question, Esther? Well, what I do know from personal conversations is that some clients are choosing not to return because they now realise that the experience they received in the salons that they used to visit does not justify the cost and stress that they would now endure. At 3•6•5 we have always known that if clients merely came to you for the ‘product’ you delivered, they would eventually find that ‘product’ cheaper elsewhere. By ‘product’ I refer to any of the services that you deliver.
However, if they came to you because of the experience you delivered, even if your ‘product’ merely met their expectations, the experience would then provide the true value that would make them return again and again. With the guidelines that we currently have to work within often we cannot deliver some of the luxury experience, as you have stated. However, I believe that there is a new luxury which will eventually become a new expectation: safety! Your clients need to feel absolutely as safe as you can possibly make them. No corners cut, no expense spared and no compromises made. So, my answer to you Esther is to give the best experience you possibly can within the guidelines that are given to us… and then go the extra mile with every safety precaution that you can. For now at least, safety and reassurance is the new luxury, but in the future it will become a mere expectation and we will have to work on creating a new and even better experience.
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email KenW@365Hair.com or tweet @creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD
18/08/2020 12:21
THE GREAT ITALIAN JOURNEY PALERMO
To find out how you can become a Great Lengths certified stylist, speak to our team on +44 (0) 113 278 1292 and start your journey. www.greatlengths.com/uk
#BusinessEdit
MISSION CONTROL
PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON in association with Phorest Salon Software SALON DOORS OPENED once again across the whole of the UK in July, and those who managed to keep in touch with their clients in a meaningful way in lockdown using Phorest Salon Software, witnessed real results. Take a look at what happened to those salons who were kings and queens of communication.
SALONS WHO USED PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE REOPENING TEMPLATES MADE AN AVERAGE OF 61% MORE REVENUE PER RECIPIENT THAN THOSE SALONS THAT CREATED THEIR OWN THE PHOREST REOPENING TEMPLATE SAW A BOOKING RATE OF 3.5%. A CUSTOM TEMPLATE ON SALON REOPENINGS GOT A RATE OF 1.7%
THE TOP 3
MOST SUCCESSFUL REVENUEGENERATING EMAIL THEMES
REOPENING ANNOUNCEMENT
£3,013,512
SOCIAL DISTANCING MEASURES
£624,643 VIP BOOKINGS
£491,389
THE MISSION: EMAILS THAT REACH
PHOREST’S MARKETING SUITE INCLUDES A RANGE OF TEMPLATES THAT SALONS CAN USE TO REACH CLIENTS, WITH SPECIFIC EMAIL TEMPLATES THAT CAN HAVE A REAL IMPACT. IN JULY, PHOREST SAW:
UK salons sending targeted email campaigns using filters in the Phorest
Marketing Suite
generated more than 4-times the revenue per recipient versus those sending untargeted email campaigns
Email marketing
has increased in popularity globally, with email campaigns sent out using the Phorest Marketing Suite increasing 107% in July 2020 compared with July 2019
“I’ve always wanted to send regular emails to my clients and the Phorest Marketing Suite has helped me to do just that. I can either use the templates, which are really well thought through and have great marketing ideas, or I can create my own. Having strong marketing in my salon has made me look at my business differently and has shown me how important it is to have good contact with our clients.” GIOVANNA MCCARTHY, YUME HAIR & BEAUTY 26
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DID YOU KNOW… SALONS IN THE UK KEPT THEIR BOOKS FULL THIS JULY WITH SMARTER MARKETING
IF THE MONTHS of lockdown have taught us anything, it is that staying connected with clients via text, email, social media or phone has been key to making it out the other side. But how has it impacted the success of the business now that salons are back open? UK salons using the Phorest Marketing Suite smashed their numbers throughout July by keeping the conversation going, and generated more than £3 million in services revenue from one email template alone – safe to say their bottom lines appreciated it. While many clients were eager to get back in the chair, there were many who held back and waited for other guests to act as the ‘guinea pigs’ before booking their appointment… and some may still feel uncomfortable with the idea of attending a salon. With that in mind, keeping the conversation going with your clients has never been more vital. But how do you do this when you’re back in the salon, looking after clients and trying to adapt to the new normal? Email templates are a quick, effective and a proven way to keep in touch with your clients. The Phorest Marketing Suite offers a range of templates, from monthly newsletters to special offers and more. These templates also address specific and current worries your clients may be facing, such as Covid-19 health and safety measures in the salon. In fact, templates that highlighted social distancing measures generated around £625,000 in services revenue alone. Other successful templates included the bespoke VIP booking option, which generated nearly £500,000 in services revenue, showing that good customer experience will always remain key, whether we’re experiencing a pandemic or not. Abigail Walsh is the events & PR lead at Phorest Salon Software UK & Ireland. Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:35
GIVE SHAPE TO ATTITUDE SEMI DI LINO VOLUME IS A LINE SPECIFICALLY DEVELOPED TO GIVE DENSITY TO FINE, WEIGHTED HAIR, HYDRATING IT AND PREVENTING MOISTURE AND ATMOSPHERIC AGENTS FROM UNDERMINING ITS NATURAL BEAUTY. MORE LASTING VOLUME, TO GIVE SHAPE TO HOW YOU DEFINE BEAUTY. ALFAPARFMILANO.COM
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COLOUR VISION
A UNIQUE COLOUR SERVICE AND BESPOKE FINISH FOR EACH AND EVERY CLIENT. DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF RUSHING WE’RE LOOKING AT WHY WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR IS WORTH TAKING THE TIME FOR… IN ASSOCIATION WITH
STUDIO CITY
We’ve got those back-to-school September feels! You can now head back to the classroom and embark on some truly inspiring inperson education. The world-renowned Wella Studios have finally opened their doors once again, albeit with a fresh new approach. A reduced schedule of courses will take place and head blocks will be used to ensure students are in a perfectly safe environment. The Studio is currently contacting people who are booked on the Master Colour Programme or education packages, and will be offering online refresher courses too. Contact the studio for a full list of course availability and a personalised consultation to plan your bespoke education programme. Naturally, full safety measures will be in place so that you can realise your potential while still remaining safe. Contact the London Studio on 020 3650 4700, or the Manchester studio 0161 834 2645
THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…
“We all need to embrace change – both clients and as stylists. A lot of colourists think of change as a big thing, that it means a client needs to have a total new look, but even the smallest adjustment can make a huge difference for them. After lockdown I was expecting clients to just have one long appointment as a one-off and then things go ‘back to normal’ again. But that hasn’t been the case. After just a couple of weeks I have clients asking for something different, something interesting, because they don’t want their old ‘normal’. “I try to introduce something small but different every time. Before lockdown I’d sort of slipped out of the habit, it was easier to just run through everyone’s usual look. It was quicker, it was easier – and the client was always happy. But since lockdown, I’ve been doing virtual consultations to gauge what clients are dealing with, how their needs have changed, and I’m taking that extra time between consultation and appointment to really think about what would suit them. Instead of seeing seven or eight clients a day I’m now seeing only two or three, and really dedicating that time to clients. “People are looking for change, you should embrace it. They’re not rushing as much as they used to, they have the time to spend now so I’m doing longer, more dedicated services. I’m not going back down that road of rushing through clients. When you work out your average spend with the amazing Wella Profit Calculator, even with prices going up with PPE, I’m making so much more money and not breaking my back. And the hair really shows – when you really take the time to use multiple techniques and products, they will really notice the difference and they won’t mind the extra cost because it absolutely feels worth the money.” 28
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@nellahairartistry
THE WIDER INDUSTRY. WELLA PASSIONISTA EVERY MONTH A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT EXAMINES AN ISSUE WHICH AFFECTS WHAT’S HAPPENING NEXT NELLA PASTORE REEXAMINES THE IDEA OF CHANGE AND WHY WE SHOULD BE EXCITED FOR
CREATIVE HEAD
18/08/2020 16:31
SHELFIE TIME I love the new additions to the Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals range. It offers everything a successful business could need. From blending greys, to bright coppers to glossing and enhancing natural hair – what more could you want? Koleston Perfect ME+ is a colourist’s dream to work with. We have been doing a lot of big colour changes since lockdown and we wouldn’t be without Wella Professionals to help us with these.”
THE NEW SHADES
55/02, 66/02, 77/02, 88/02
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
#ColourVision
WHY I’M WELLA
@cheyneshair
MELISSA TIMPERLEY, MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALONS, MANCHESTER
I love the family feeling that Wella creates – it’s unique. It has a fantastic support network and you are always made to feel valued. The people I deal with at Wella have always had a great understanding of our business needs and the ever-changing demands of our clients. “No matter where you are in your career there is something available with Wella Education. Its educators and guest artists embrace teamwork to enable the best possible outcome for students, and the education is incredibly high quality. This high level of teaching has created opportunities for our own team, who are regularly involved in presenting at the UK studios. “Wella is always looking forward and we are sure that, during these challenging times, it will keep on striving to ensure that customers are well and truly looked after and prepared for the journey ahead.” PAUL ADAMCZUK, CHEYNES HAIRDRESSING, EDINBURGH
KEEP YOUR CLIENTS HAPPY WITH EFFECTIVE AND EFFICIENT COLOUR SERVICES. THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS EXPRESS HIGHLIGHTS MASTERCLASS, FEATURING WELLA’S TECHNICAL DIRECTOR FOR UK AND IRELAND, ROBERT EATON, IS A SHORT ’N’ SWEET DEMONSTRATION ON HOW TO USE HIGHLIGHTS TO INCREASE PROFITABILITY AND SAVE YOU TIME DURING BUSY PERIODS. BEST OF ALL, IT’S TOTALLY FREE FOR ALL HAIRDRESSERS. GO TO EDUCATION.WELLA.COM TO FIND THIS AND LOTS OF FREE INSPIRATIONAL AND PRACTICAL EDUCATION, FROM COLOUR AND STYLING TO PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE AND BUSINESS SKILLS @wellahairuki #WellaColour #MakeChange CREATIVE HEAD
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Wella Professionals 29
18/08/2020 16:31
Ugrade your root touch-up with
luxelights Luxurious dimension, subtle lights and soft shadows
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18/08/2020 15:47
Grey coverage just got cooler RESISTANT COOL COVER SHADES FOR
100
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COOL, GREY COVERAGE
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FIND OUT MORE: Talk to your Account Manager/Education Team or visit education.wella.com uk.wellastore.com | @wellahairuki | #WellaColour
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18/08/2020 15:47
LIGHT OF YOUR LIFE
ELUMENATION FROM GOLDWELL TAKES COLOUR TO NEW HEIGHTS WITH INCREDIBLE SHINE AND COLOUR BRILLIANCE – KEEP IT COOL WITH NEW SHADES AND FORMULATIONS ACROSS THE RANGE PICTURE NEXT GENERATION, pure pigment technology that gives you true-to-tone results every time. Picture intense pigments, nuanced reflects, impossible shine. Picture a flexible, interactive colour system that works for you. There’s a good chance you’re picturing the ELUMENATION range… Goldwell’s game-changing colour system is the result of more than two decades of research and development into innovation with direct dyes for versatile colour services. Drive clients wild for
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their dream colour results. No more compromise, no more watereddown ambitions – true colour is at your fingertips, a palette of perfection that helps you create exactly what you imagined, and what your client has always hoped for. Choose between classic Elumen colour for incredible durability; Topchic and Colorance @Elumenated shades for convenient, ready-to-use colour or customisable @Pure Pigments for high definition and intense colour. Ooh, now where to start?
CREATIVE HEAD
18/08/2020 12:51
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
COOL IT DOWN COOL IS HOT. KEEP ON-TREND WITH COOL-TONED SHADES FROM GOLDWELL’S EXTENDED ELUMENATION RANGE, WHICH TAKES INSPIRATION FROM GOLDWELL’S GOBEYOND COLLECTION
LAVENDER 9N@PK 7BP@PK
BEIGE MINT
6NN@CV
Topchic’s clever delivery system has won scores of fans across the world. No need to compromise with these intensely pigmented cool formulas. Discover the three new @Elumenated shades inspired by Goldwell’s GoBeyond collection. 9N@PK – INSPIRED BY SAKURA PINK 7BP@PK – INSPIRED BY RICH TEA 6NN@CV – INSPIRED BY COCO DE MER
Transform any Topchic or Colorance colour service with the intense colour options from Goldwell’s direct dye @Pure Pigments in the new shade Cool Pink. This mesmerising cool pink tone, inspired by CASSIS, gives you customisable colour brilliance with a high-definition finish to elevate oxidative hair colour with multi-dimensional reflects and shine.
ROSÉ
Tone up in minutes with the Colorance Express Toning @Elumenated collection of colours. Colour is refined and elevated in just five minutes, giving you immense versatility after lightening or highlift services. Stay on-trend with these GoBeyond-inspired shades. LAVENDER – INSPIRED BY LILATECH BEIGE MINT – INSPIRED BY NEO MINT ROSÉ – INSPIRED BY SAKURA PINK
Fix awkward regrowth, box dye mishaps or banded colour with Goldwell’s new System Hair Color Remover. The service features CanvasReset System technology with integrated bond protection to shield hair quality. Perfect timing!
ILLUMINATE THE COLOUR POSSIBILITIES AT YOUR DISPOSAL WITH NEW GOLDWELL ELUMENATION SHADES AND FORMULATIONS. FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT GOLDWELL.COM OR CALL 020 3540 1200
CREATIVE HEAD
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18/08/2020 12:52
NEW LIVE STREAM FORMAT
WATCH LIVE OR AT YOUR LEISURE ACCESS ANYTIME, ANYWHERE, WITH A COMPUTER, TABLET OR SMARTPHONE
ONE DAY. 10 HOURS OF EDUCATION AND INSPIRATION! EXPERT PANELS Helping you to reassess business and tackle key challenges during Covid-19
PRACTICAL WORKSHOPS Roll up your sleeves and learn new tricks to boost your business
THE GREAT DEBATE Hilary Hall, NHBF - Elena Lavagni, Neville Hair & Beauty - Jordanna Cobella, Cobella
THINK TANK Gina Conway, Gina Conway Salons & Spas - Simon Harris, MySalonManager - Giorgia Rossi, Treatwell - Elena Tayleur, Linnaean - Mark Woolley, Electric Hairdressing
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18/08/2020 13:08
CELEBRITY INTERVIEW From owner of 28 salons and international showman to creator of his own product line and industry business activist – Phil Smith’s story is well worth a listen!
REAL-LIFE STORIES Salon owners share how they build their brands, motivate their teams and manage the economics to make their salons profitable
Tom Chapman, The Lions Barber Collective - Gavin Mills, Bad Apple Hair - Katie Allan, Mayfive - Christel Barron-Hough, STIL - Mark Maciver, SliderCuts - Ken West, 3∙6∙5 Education
BUY TICKETS AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE
TICKETS £35 +VAT
INCLUDES SALON SMART LIVE ‘POWER PACK’ DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR
CREATIVE SESSION Spend an hour with Richard Phillipart and his team as they create magical hair exclusively for you
SPECIAL APPEARANCES
ON SCREEN 27 SEPTEMBER
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Monica Teodoro, general manager, L’Oréal Professionnel UK & Ireland Dennis Meisner, senior product analyst, Treatwell
18/08/2020 13:08
Moving on up From new businesses to established salons, Treatwell’s innovative and adaptable services form the building blocks that can make every hair venture shine, no matter where you are on your journey
A HELPING HAND is always appreciated. No matter what size your business is – whether you’re a solo stylist or running a multi-salon empire – a solid foundation of business know-how and support structures can help to keep your salon or business standing strong. Treatwell knows that one size doesn’t fit all, that each and every client needs something different. And that’s the beauty of its offering; you can customise your Treatwell support experience, one building block at a time. We spoke to three different salons to discover just how Treatwell has helped them to step up to the next level.
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CREATIVE HEAD
18/08/2020 12:26
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Khanh Pham, Mai Salon, Manchester 1,600+ verified reviews, five team members, partnered with Treatwell for three years
Coming online with Treatwell has enabled us to go from strength to strength. It gives us the tools to communicate time and time again with our repeat clients and cement lasting relationships with them, as well as gain new clients (which is increasingly difficult at this time). Now our clients can book 24/7 with us via social media and it’s much easier to manage. @maisalonuk
Growth spurt With fewer people out and about on the street, your online visibility is more important than ever. Your own website is an essential tool in this day and age, but creating a digital shopfront on Treatwell, a site with more than seven million visitors every month, offers you next-level exposure. Treatwell connects one of its partners to a client every 1.5 seconds. Don’t know where to start with your own website? Treatwell has you covered there too, with a free website builder for clients to tailor to their brand identity. Easy to use widgets and ‘book now’ buttons can also be added to existing sites as well as your business’ Facebook and Instagram. Market yourself to the best of your ability and enjoy a wider network. And let’s not forget the extra outreach that Treatwell does on your behalf to steer people to your salon. With smart email marketing initiatives, based on tonnes of collected data and research as well as shareable, pre-designed images for you to use on social media, meeting your next new client is just a click away.
Sliding doors When demand is high, the last thing you want to deal with is the phone ringing off the hook and constant interruptions. Maximise your online availability and ensure potential clients can book an appointment 24/7. Manage all of your booking online through Treatwell’s clever software for a smooth, hassle-free experience – for both you and the client! Treatwell’s dedicated, easy-to-use booking software allows for
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real-time availability display, to avoid any awkward double-bookings. You can also create simple ‘book now’ buttons on your Facebook and Instagram pages, creating a community where likes become bookings, which become happy clients. Take advantage of quiet days and turn them into full columns with smart pricing options, including off-peak and last-minute discounts which can be quickly and easily adjusted with the touch of a button. Rather than moulding yourself to fit the parameters of other booking systems, mould Treatwell’s many options around you and your team.
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Brent Mossop Bar Hairdressing & Bar Hair Ink, East London 15 years in business, two salons, 16 team members, partnered with Treatwell for 10 years
Keep ‘em coming Sure, your salon may be full now, but we all know that building lasting relationships is crucial to a successful business. Walk-ins are discouraged due to Covid-19 guidelines, so you need to do everything you can to lock-in secure client connections. The right salon software means you’re able to spend the time where it matters: with your clients. Treatwell can help you store all of your client notes, building up a GDPR-safe client database that means you can offer next-level service. Every service, every concern, every idea for future appointments can be noted down and take you one step closer to the dream client experience. Automate all of your admin and cut-out no-shows for a smoother way to run a salon. Treatwell offers you unlimited reminders for clients via email and SMS without you having to lift a finger. Set automatic rebook reminders for clients if you didn’t manage to book them in immediately after their service, to keep everything on track and columns full. The Treatwell client app means you can stay right there in your client’s pocket, with an easy-to-book system and up-to-date availability for a seamless experience, whether it’s their first visit or their fortieth. Want to offer a more personal touch? With professionally designed marketing email templates, you can send messages to different groups of clients with ease to encourage them to take advantage of specific deals or just to give them a bit of a nudge.
I wasn’t very tech-savvy when I opened my salons, but being bookable online has made sure my salons are visible and my team is trusted. Partnering with Treatwell transformed my business into something far more interesting and effective – particularly when it came to adding my second salon. It’s helped me grow my business.
@barhairdressing
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:36
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Raju Raymond, CEO, Headmasters 43 salons across the UK, partnered with Treatwell for five years
Work smarter, not harder You got into this business because you love hair, right? We don’t blame you if the idea of juggling a business, managing a team or figuring out how to build a cohesive marketing campaign sends you into a cold sweat. It’s tough! Treatwell has the right digital tools for you, no matter what you’re struggling with, to streamline your business and make it much easier to manage. They’ve been designed specifically for hair professionals, to help you manage your diary, juggle appointments in seconds and organise everything you need in one place. Save time – and money! – with the right toolkit for you and your business. We’re talking sales reports generated by the touch of a button, updating your products and salon menus effortlessly, and viewing performance insights all in one place. Still at a loss? The team at Treatwell is always on-hand to help out. Your account manager can be monitoring trends in your wider area and give you a heads-up on trending services that you can jump on. Time waits for no salon, but the Treatwell team has your back to help build your business and take you to new heights.
We work with Treatwell not only on listing our salons on its marketplace and using its salon software to streamline our business across 43 sites, but also through dedicated partner content to help showcase the Headmasters brand. It has helped drive business and boost our online presence, which in turn has attracted new clients. The simple booking process has allowed us to fill late availability appointments quickly as well as creating bespoke offers for specific salons. It’s a partnership we value greatly and we look forward to more successes with Treatwell.
@headmastersuk
DISCOVER HOW TREATWELL CAN HELP TO LEVEL UP YOUR BUSINESS, NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE ON YOUR JOURNEY. VISIT TREATWELL.CO.UK/PARTNERS TO SIGN UP FOR A FREE CONSULTATION
CREATIVE HEAD
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18/08/2020 12:27
NEW! For salon owners
Collective
A NEW KIND OF MEMBERSHIP CLUB FOR SALON OWNERS – THAT CARES FOR YOU, YOUR TEAM AND YOUR BUSINESS Running a salon business right now – post-Covid – can be a lot to handle. Everything’s changed, from working hours to team structure, and it’s bound to take its toll. You can never be certain when you, or one of your team will need extra support. Creative HEAD’s Collective, created in partnership with leading Employee Assistance Programme provider Care
first, is a new membership programme that provides everyone in your salon with support and practical advice on issues that might be impacting on wellbeing and performance. The service covers everything from financial and legal matters to childcare, eldercare, emotional and practical everyday support – and much more.
BENEFITS TO YOUR BUSINESS
BENEFITS TO YOUR EMPLOYEES
P Helps improve morale and employee engagement, as well as help prevent outside issues from impacting on work, including absences from work.
P Empower your employees to take control of their health and address any concerns they may have. Therapy is available immediately and 24/7 from highly qualified counsellors via the telephone or online.
P Provides insightful reporting to identify key issues and health risks within your salon business that can help to inform your wellbeing strategy.
P Practical and emotional advice from qualified experts over the phone, plus access to online information and tools focused on enhancing and supporting your team’s wellbeing. P Care first Information Specialists are experienced former Citizens Advice information specialists, who ensure accurate information is provided immediately. They are all financial experts and debt trained and can help with additional practical issues, such as legal issues, consumer issues, taxation queries and childcare/ eldercare advice.
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HELP & ADVICE FOR YOU & YOUR TEAM ON ALL THIS ALL SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE 24/7 AND ARE 100 PER CENT CONFIDENTIAL. IT’S THE SUPPORT YOU NEED TO KEEP YOU AND YOUR STAFF HAPPY AND HEALTHY
EMOTIONAL AND PHYSICAL WELLBEING
✓ ✓ ✓
Stress
Depression and anxiety
Substance abuse, or concern about someone else’s addictions, including gambling, domestic abuse, grief and loss, critical incidents and trauma
WORK-RELATED ISSUES
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓
FINANCIAL AND LEGAL TOPICS
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓
Budgeting
Workplace stress
Workplace conflict Job burnout
Coping with change
Career development
General work-related issues
RELATIONSHIPS AND FAMILY MATTERS
Investments
Retirement planning
Managing loans and mortgages Managing debt Tax issues
Financial concerns
Sign up before 18 September and receive a free ticket to Salon Smart Live, worth £35 plus VAT
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓
Relationship issues
Separation and divorce
Childcare and parenting issues Adoption
Eldercare/care giving issues
Education concerns and student life Relatives with disabilities
SIGN UP TO CREATIVE HEAD’S COLLECTIVE MEMBERSHIP COSTS
£350 PLUS VAT PER YEAR
• Dedicated 24/7 counselling and practical advice helpline • Tailored presentation on how to use the scheme
• Wellbeing programme created bespoke for your team
CALL 01434 610416 OR VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0
ADEE PHELAN “These 12 months changed my life,” recalls Adee Phelan, now the fervent campaigner behind the successful Thank you NHS gift box programme. He’s not wrong – 2000 was the year he won a glut of awards, started working with David Beckham and made his way onto TV for the first time… all only a year or so into his career, which he’d started at 25. “Hairdressing became cooler, with stylists often becoming celebrities themselves. I remember seeing Nicky Clarke and Lee Stafford, and it was so rock and roll,” he laughs. And a couple of years later, Adee would be part of the team that placed hairdressers firmly in the public eye with Channel Four’s The Salon. “That put hairdressing on a platform, in prime time.”
Hair photography: Rankin
CLASS
CHARLES WORTHINGTON MBE This was a transatlantic period for Charles Worthington, with a salon in New York’s SoHo and an atelier in his penthouse apartment in the Chelsea district for his VIPs. “We had a fun and exciting clientele including Sarah Jessica Parker and Kim Cattrall,” recalls Charles. The salon also would pop-up in Los Angeles for the Oscars at the Beverly Hills Hotel, while the Charles Worthington product line had expanded to the US, Japan, Australia, New Zealand and Scandinavia. “We were travelling round the world constantly and enjoying every second!” he grins. 42
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BEVERLY C MBE “It was a massive year for us. We bought the Cobella salon in Kensington, although it took 15 months to get it ready,” says Beverly C, who was enjoying exposure on GMTV and had a product line in Boots. “I was travelling abroad up to four times a month, I was the president of the Fellowship and I had three children. It was mental!” Haircutting was amazing at the time, she remembers, exciting and technical. Unlike now, she says: “Cutting has never been so boring. I don’t mean photographic work, but on much of the high street. Unless they go to Sassoon or are well-trained in a salon, young stylists are learning about four cuts that they see on Instagram. That concerns me for the future.” CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:41
LEE STAFFORD “It’s a bit of a blur to be honest,” jokes Lee Stafford, hairdressing’s Bad Boy back in 2000, now a family man enjoying trips to Center Parcs. “That was the year that I launched my product line, so it was an interesting time. I got my first TV gig on This Morning, we’d just moved into The House That Hair Built, the London salon hadn’t long opened. They were some of the biggest moments in my life, all in 2000.” As he recalls, poker-straight hair and asymmetric cuts were everywhere. “They were brilliant times, haircuts were king, not like now,” he says wistfully. “It was a very exciting time for hair. Clients were adventurous with their cuts… and that meant they were back in every six weeks.”
OF 2000 AS THE NEW MILLENNIUM WAS BORN, SALONS WERE SLICING ASYMMETRICAL CUTS AND IRONING POKER-STRAIGHT FINISHES WHILE LISTENING TO STEPS AND ROBBIE WILLIAMS. CREATIVE HEAD LOOKS BACK AT THE STARS OF THE YEAR OF ITS BIRTH…
UMBERTO GIANNINI
MARK HILL
“I am yet to meet such a wonderful character – everyone that knew him fell in love with him.” Those are the words of Errol Douglas MBE about this exciting hairdressing force who is still adored by so many of his peers, some 19 years after his tragic death at the age of 33. His wife, Claire Shread, co-founder and chief creative officer of the Umberto Giannini brand, describes meeting Umberto as her first good hairdressing experience, thanks to his love of natural texture like hers. “Umberto was so much fun and endlessly giving,” she says. “Passionately creative and endlessly energetic, those of us lucky enough to have known and loved him all agree what a special and individual star he was."
The turn of the century was the start of an incredible journey for Mr Hill, winning big awards and launching his own brand into Boots. Twenty years later and he’s still there – with 54 products across four different categories. “The industry at this point was changing rapidly and TV shows like Style Challenge and The Clothes Show were giving hairdressers celebrity status in their own right,” recalls Mark. “This allowed the industry to be shown to the general public to a very positive effect.”
CREATIVE HEAD
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20/08/2020 15:41
THE 20:20 TEST Hair photography from Hair by Sam McKnight
WE POSE 20 QUESTIONS TO A SELECT GROUP OF HAIR HEROES, ENQUIRING ABOUT THEIR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF, THEIR CAREER AND LIFE OVER THE LAST TWO DECADES, AND WHAT THEY SEE ON THE HORIZON FOR THE NEXT 20 YEARS…
SAM MCKNIGHT WHAT’S THE BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE IN THE PAST 20 YEARS? I don’t think I would call it a sacrifice as it was choices I made along the way.
AND THE WORST? When friends die.
WHAT DO THE FIRST AND LAST 20 MINUTES OF YOUR DAY LOOK LIKE? I do a half-hour regime of pilates/yoga movements, weights, breathing.
YOU HAVE 20 DAYS TO DO ANYTHING YOU WANT, WHEREVER YOU WANT – WHAT’S THE PLAN? Go on safari, do a lovely job there with my favourite people and finish with an incredible holiday.
DESCRIBE YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF… I’d just arrived in London with flares, platforms and a growing out perm! IT’S SEPTEMBER 2000 – WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU ON A NIGHT OUT? Disco dancing at Trade or DTPM.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE WITH YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF? Take every opportunity you can. Take chances, embrace change.
FAVOURITE LOOK/TREND FROM THE PAST TWO DECADES? The one that is your own, and doesn’t follow trends.
IF YOU COULD ASK ONE PERSON, LIVING OR DEAD, 20 QUESTIONS, WHO WOULD IT BE? Mahatma Ghandi.
WHAT WORRIED YOU ABOUT THE NEW MILLENNIUM BACK IN 1999? Nothing, I’m not a worrier.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE SONG FROM THE YEAR 2000? ‘Sing it Back‘ by Moloko.
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CREATIVE HEAD HIGHLIGHT? Winning Hair Icon for the third time and becoming a Most Wanted Legend!
YOU’VE GOT 20 SECONDS TO GRAB ANYTHING YOU WANT FOR FREE IN A 'SUPERMARKET SWEEP' – WHICH SHOP DO YOU HEAD TO? Cartier.
THE MILLENNIUM BUG IS REAL AND EVERYTHING IS ABOUT TO CRASH – WHICH THREE PEOPLE WOULD BE ON YOUR SURVIVAL TEAM? A doctor, a member of the SAS and Bear Grylls. You said survive! WHAT WOULD YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF THINK OF YOU NOW? Tea and gardening? Really?! WHAT WILL YOU ALWAYS FIND 20 MINUTES FOR? Instagram. WHAT’S YOUR BEST MOMENT FROM THE PAST 20 YEARS? Way too many.
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MARTY MCFLY HAS TURNED UP WITH HIS TIME TRAVELLING DELOREAN – DO YOU GO BACK TO THE FUTURE TO 2000 OR STAY HERE? I would stay here. Life is always about moving forward. I don’t live in the past. WHICH SONG COULD YOU HAPPILY HAVE STUCK ON A LOOP FOR 20 HOURS AND WHY? None, I’d rather have silence. WHAT WILL HAIRDRESSING LOOK LIKE IN 20 YEARS? Essentially the same. What’s special is the relationship between stylist and client. Technology will advance but you can’t replicate the one-on-one experience.
CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:41
SALLY MONTAGUE
SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP
WHAT’S THE BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE IN THE PAST 20 YEARS? Looking after my business and not spending more time with my children. Now they work in the business, we joke and call it my long-term recruitment plan! WHAT DO THE FIRST AND LAST 20 MINUTES OF YOUR DAY LOOK LIKE? Chaos! I’ve started to kick the day off with yoga, it helps me to get my head in gear. The last are me thinking about what’s going on at each salon the next day. DESCRIBE YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF… Very big ‘80s hair! I was enjoying a fantastic job, a responsibility-free stylist at a great salon group. Life was good – very social and creative. IT’S SEPTEMBER 2000 – WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU ON A NIGHT OUT? Probably having lots of friends over for dinner with a party. We would start after work on a Saturday and go all the way through to a Sunday night! FAVOURITE LOOK/TREND FROM THE PAST TWO DECADES? I always think about the glossy, poker-straight hair that became so huge with the dawn of new tools. Look-wise I think Sienna Miller always had great hair. WHAT WORRIED YOU ABOUT THE NEW MILLENNIUM BACK IN 1999? It didn’t worry me. Everyone was so excited about those celebrations. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CREATIVE HEAD HIGHLIGHT? My daughter Angel Montague-Sayers winning The It List It Girl title in 2013. I was so proud. THE MILLENNIUM BUG IS REAL AND EVERYTHING IS ABOUT TO CRASH – WHICH THREE PEOPLE WOULD BE ON YOUR SURVIVAL TEAM? My three girls, Emmanuelle, Angel and Jazzy – all very strong women who could get us out of any situation! WHAT WOULD YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF THINK OF YOU NOW? You set out what you wanted to achieve. I wanted a salon group with high standards and I feel I have done this. Although I don’t want to be complacent. WHAT WILL YOU ALWAYS FIND 20 MINUTES FOR? A glass of dry white wine and a salon debrief.
CREATIVE HEAD
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WHAT’S YOUR BEST MOMENT FROM THE PAST 20 YEARS? Work-wise, watching my purpose-built salon in Ashbourne being developed. AND THE WORST? Then hearing the unexpected news that there was a problem with the electricity supply and we may never get power to a finished new salon. YOU HAVE 20 DAYS TO DO ANYTHING YOU WANT, WHEREVER YOU WANT – WHAT’S THE PLAN? A casual tour of the Cote D’Azur, dropping in at my favourite arty hotel, La Colombe D’Or, and then cruising through all the cool coastal towns. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE WITH YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF? Successful people think big; don’t sweat the small stuff. IF YOU COULD ASK ONE PERSON, LIVING OR DEAD, 20 QUESTIONS, WHO WOULD IT BE? I would ask my dad questions I wouldn’t have thought about when I was younger. He was an architect who thought very differently and I’d be fascinated to know what he would say now. He would have loved to have seen my business grow. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE SONG FROM THE YEAR 2000? Madonna’s version of ‘American Pie’. YOU’VE GOT 20 SECONDS TO GRAB ANYTHING YOU WANT FOR FREE IN A 'SUPERMARKET SWEEP' – WHICH SHOP DO YOU HEAD TO? Uterque – I’d head straight to the accessories section. MARTY MCFLY HAS TURNED UP WITH HIS TIMETRAVELLING DELOREAN – DO YOU GO BACK TO THE FUTURE TO 2000 OR STAY HERE? Stay here, I don’t regret anything. WHICH SONG COULD YOU HAPPILY HAVE STUCK ON A LOOP FOR 20 HOURS AND WHY? ’The Girl from Ipanema‘ by Astrud Gilberto – I picture it playing at an exotic beach destination! WHAT WILL HAIRDRESSING LOOK LIKE IN 20 YEARS? I hope education is more standardised. At the moment the quality is just too variable depending on who you train with.
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20/08/2020 15:42
EST T H E 2 0 :2 0 T
ERROL DOUGLAS MBE ERROL DOUGLAS, KNIGHTSBRIDGE
WHAT’S THE BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE IN THE PAST 20 YEARS? My marriage. WHAT DO THE FIRST AND LAST 20 MINUTES OF YOUR DAY LOOK LIKE? Both find me in a meditative state of mind – full of affirmations. DESCRIBE YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF… I was an artistic director for Paul Edmonds. I had a haircut like Blade – always kitted out in designer gear – although saving to get married as I’d already met my wife-to-be, Jo. IT’S SEPTEMBER 2000 – WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU ON A NIGHT OUT? For a boys’ night out we could be found at the Barracuda club in Baker Street. With my lady we could be found at the Hippodrome, Crackers or the 100 Club, where we used to dance our socks off to an eclectic mix of jazz, funk and soul. FAVOURITE LOOK/TREND FROM THE PAST TWO DECADES? It just has to be ‘The Rachel’, which just kept going – it’s still asked for now! WHAT WORRIED YOU ABOUT THE NEW MILLENNIUM BACK IN 1999? Nothing – I was fearless! WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CREATIVE HEAD HIGHLIGHT? Becoming a Most Wanted Legend in 2018. THE MILLENNIUM BUG IS REAL AND EVERYTHING IS ABOUT TO CRASH – WHICH THREE PEOPLE WOULD BE ON YOUR SURVIVAL TEAM? No contest, I’ve got three children! WHAT WOULD YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF THINK OF YOU NOW? I’d like to think that he thought I’d done alright. WHAT WILL YOU ALWAYS FIND 20 MINUTES FOR? To help someone. WHAT’S YOUR BEST MOMENT IN THE PAST 20 YEARS? Receiving the MBE at Buckingham Palace in 2008. I was with my very proud mum and dad, and that means so much to me, having lost them before their time.
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AND THE WORST? On a personal note, losing my son some 26 years ago. Not a day goes by when I don’t think about him. On a business note it’s the recent pandemic – I've never seen anything like it. YOU HAVE 20 DAYS TO DO ANYTHING YOU WANT, WHEREVER YOU WANT – WHAT’S THE PLAN? I would make Afro hair training in colleges and institutions mandatory. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE WITH YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF? Create an award-winning product line. IF YOU COULD ASK ONE PERSON LIVING OR DEAD 20 QUESTIONS, WHO WOULD IT BE? Dr Martin Luther King. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE SONG FROM THE YEAR 2000? ‘Risin’ to the Top’ by Keni Burke. It’s still my favourite! YOU’VE GOT 20 SECONDS TO GRAB ANYTHING YOU WANT FOR FREE IN A 'SUPERMARKET SWEEP' – WHICH SHOP DO YOU HEAD TO? Harrods – you can buy a house there! I’d get one in Knightsbridge so I could walk to work. MARTY MCFLY HAS TURNED UP WITH HIS TIME TRAVELLING DELOREAN – DO YOU GO BACK TO THE FUTURE TO 2000 OR STAY HERE? I’d stay here. One of my favourite quotes is ‘don’t look back - you’re not going that way’. WHICH SONG COULD YOU HAPPILY HAVE STUCK ON A LOOP FOR 20 HOURS AND WHY? Sung by one of the greatest singers, ‘So Amazing’ by Luther Vandross. WHAT WILL HAIRDRESSING LOOK LIKE IN 20 YEARS? I think we will all have shaved heads, and will be able to pick our head of hair from a selection of wigs from our wardrobe. Time will not allow us the luxury of having our hair done. The dystopian The Hunger Games film series becomes believable – think hair in a microwave!
CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:42
OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS THERE’S NEVER BEEN A BETTER TIME TO INVEST IN NEW APPRENTICESHIPS. THE NHBF TEAM EXPLAINS WHY TAKING ON A NEW STARTER WOULD BE WORTH YOUR WHILE…
AS OUR INDUSTRY regains its footing, now is a good time to make plans for the future – including taking on a new apprentice, says NHBF director of quality and standards, Caroline Larissey. “We work in a wonderfully upbeat industry, and one that makes a huge contribution to the economy,” she says. “Taking on an apprentice has always been a great way to inject fresh young talent into your business – and if you’re based in England you can take advantage of a new financial incentive until January 2021.”
EXTRA CASH FOR EMPLOYERS IN ENGLAND
“Apprenticeships will be more important than ever,” explains Caroline. “That’s why the government is offering extra cash to employers who take on an
apprentice as part of its plans to reboot the economy.” Salons in England can benefit from an incentive payment of up to £2,000 for each new apprentice until 31 January 2021. Claims can be made through the apprenticeship service from 1 September 2020. “For apprentices aged 16 to 24 the payment is £2,000, and for apprentices aged 25 or over it will be £1,500,” says Caroline. “This money is in addition to the existing £1,000 payment the government already provides for new 16 to 18-year-old apprentices, and those aged under 25 with an education, health and care plan.”
DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT
Since April 2020, the apprenticeship pay rate has been £4.15 an hour. “National Minimum Wage (NMW) rates change every
year, so always make sure you are paying the correct amount,” advises Caroline. “Also, remember that an apprentice over the age of 19 who is in the second year of their apprenticeship must be paid the age-appropriate NMW or National Living Wage.” Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/new-nmw
GET THE BASICS RIGHT
There are a number of other requirements that must be met, explains Caroline. “For example, your apprentice must have a proper job role, working with experienced staff to enable them to gain job-specific skills.” Apprentices should work a minimum of 30 hours per week (21 in Northern Ireland) and they should also study with a college or training provider. For more information go to nhbf.co.uk/apprentices
SUPPORT FROM THE NHBF NHBF members benefit from free apprenticeship agreements (deeds in Scotland), free access to the friendly membership team for everyday apprenticeship advice, and free access to a 24/7 legal helpline for any trickier issues that come up with your apprentice. Find out more about NHBF member benefits at nhbf.co.uk/benefits
JOIN THE NHBF BEFORE THE END OF SEPTEMBER 2020 AND QUOTE CHS25 TO GET £25 OFF YOUR MEMBERSHIP FEE
For more information on how the NHBF can help you make the most of your business with its wide range of support services and resources, visit nhbf.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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18/08/2020 12:31
EST T H E 2 0 :2 0 T
MARK MACIVER SLIDERCUTS
WHAT’S THE BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE IN THE PAST 20 YEARS? Sleep and money. WHAT DO THE FIRST AND LAST 20 MINUTES OF YOUR DAY LOOK LIKE? The first 20 minutes are quiet as I creep around my house trying not to wake up my family at 5am! The last 20 are usually spent doing some kind of work online. DESCRIBE YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF… I had just come out of the phase of having a curly perm, both ears pierced and a nose piercing. I was very energetic, like I am now, very happy and outgoing. I was cutting hair all hours of the day, working at D&Ls barber shop. I was also into a lot of things like dance and singing. Just enjoying life! IT’S SEPTEMBER 2000 – WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU ON A NIGHT OUT? I was only 15! I wasn't out like that! I did spend quite a few evenings at Castlehaven Youth Club in Kentish Town West, but I wasn't allowed out late so I wasn't really doing much else. When I did go out, I would be at Bigga Fish events. FAVOURITE LOOK/TREND FROM THE PAST TWO DECADES? I love polo necks. I’ve been wearing them since I was 16 and I’ve never stopped! In terms of hair, I think my favourite look was my curly perm with a sharp shape up. Even though I find it a bit cringe, I wouldn’t change it. WHAT WORRIED YOU ABOUT THE NEW MILLENNIUM BACK IN 1999? Nothing to be honest. I don’t really worry about those things.
WHAT’S YOUR BEST MOMENT FROM THE PAST 20 YEARS? I’m fortunate to have so many great moments, from getting married to the birth of my two children to opening up my business, to winning awards and collaborating with so many people. It’s difficult to choose just one. AND THE WORST? When one of my older brothers passed away. YOU HAVE 20 DAYS TO DO ANYTHING YOU WANT, WHEREVER YOU WANT – WHAT’S THE PLAN? I'd throw a few different social gatherings where people could just come together to talk and vibe. Massive parties where everything is free and people can just connect. There would also be a lot of time spent in and with the community, and of course with my family. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE WITH YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF? Hard times are coming for you to get through and learn from to help others. IF YOU COULD ASK ONE PERSON, LIVING OR DEAD, 20 QUESTIONS, WHO WOULD IT BE? Jesus. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE SONG FROM THE YEAR 2000? ‘Incomplete‘ by Sisqó. Although it came out in 1999, I played it a lot in 2000!
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CREATIVE HEAD HIGHLIGHT? That’s being part of The Industry documentary.
YOU’VE GOT 20 SECONDS TO GRAB ANYTHING YOU WANT FOR FREE IN A 'SUPERMARKET SWEEP' WHICH SHOP DO YOU HEAD TO? Mercedes-Benz showroom!
THE MILLENNIUM BUG IS REAL AND EVERYTHING IS ABOUT TO CRASH – WHICH THREE PEOPLE WOULD BE ON YOUR SURVIVAL TEAM? My mum and my brothers.
MARTY MCFLY HAS TURNED UP WITH HIS TIME-TRAVELLING DELOREAN – DO YOU GO BACK TO THE FUTURE TO 2000 OR STAY HERE? Stay here.
WHAT WOULD YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF THINK OF YOU NOW? He’d be proud to see where he is going and the things he’s going to do and achieve. WHAT WILL YOU ALWAYS FIND 20 MINUTES FOR? My family.
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WHICH SONG COULD YOU HAPPILY HAVE STUCK ON A LOOP FOR 20 HOURS AND WHY? ‘Burn’ and ‘U Got It Bad’, both by Usher. WHAT WILL HAIRDRESSING LOOK LIKE IN 20 YEARS? The industry will probably be a lot more regulated and people will be a lot more skilled. There’ll be a lot more female barbers, too.
CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:43
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17/08/2020 15:33
EST T H E 2 0 :2 0 T
NICOLA CLARKE
NICOLA CLARKE @ JOHN FRIEDA
WHAT’S THE BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE IN THE PAST 20 YEARS? Missing out on weddings, funerals and parties because of work.
WHAT’S YOUR BEST MOMENT FROM THE PAST 20 YEARS? Besides giving birth, it would be opening my salon.
WHAT DO THE FIRST AND LAST 20 MINUTES OF YOUR DAY LOOK LIKE? First, going to the gym. Last, chasing my daughter round the house trying to get her into bed!
AND THE WORST? Closing the salon during the pandemic.
DESCRIBE YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF… I was working between Hyper Hyper in Kensington and Andrew Jose in Fitzrovia as a colourist. I went from having bleached hair to blue, pink and sometimes Linda Evangelista orange. IT’S SEPTEMBER 2000 – WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU ON A NIGHT OUT? Kabaret in Soho or some rave in a basement somewhere in the city like ‘23FTEAST. FAVOURITE LOOK/TREND FROM THE PAST TWO DECADES? Slip dresses, trainers and bleached hair with a short, heavy fringe. WHAT WORRIED YOU ABOUT THE NEW MILLENNIUM BACK IN 1999? Nothing, I was in my 20s! WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CREATIVE HEAD HIGHLIGHT? Being nominated for the Most Wanted Hair Icon Award along with my peers. THE MILLENNIUM BUG IS REAL AND EVERYTHING IS ABOUT TO CRASH – WHICH THREE PEOPLE WOULD BE ON YOUR SURVIVAL TEAM? My husband, my chiropractor Xerxes, and my mum. WHAT WOULD YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF THINK OF YOU NOW? Loosen up and don’t be so serious about everything! WHAT WILL YOU ALWAYS FIND 20 MINUTES FOR? My children.
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YOU HAVE 20 DAYS TO DO ANYTHING YOU WANT, WHEREVER YOU WANT – WHAT’S THE PLAN? Hire a boat and sail around the Greek islands without a care in the world! WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE WITH YOUR 20-YEAR-OLD SELF? Just get on with it, you’re ready now. IF YOU COULD ASK ONE PERSON, LIVING OR DEAD, 20 QUESTIONS, WHO WOULD IT BE? Frida Kahlo. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE SONG FROM THE YEAR 2000? 'Wish I Didn’t Miss You’, by Angie Stone. YOU’VE GOT 20 SECONDS TO GRAB ANYTHING YOU WANT FOR FREE IN A 'SUPERMARKET SWEEP' – WHICH SHOP DO YOU HEAD TO? Choose Love – it’s a store where you buy gifts for refugees. MARTY MCFLY HAS TURNED UP WITH HIS TIME-TRAVELLING DELOREAN – DO YOU GO BACK TO THE FUTURE TO 2000 OR STAY HERE? Stay here. WHICH SONG COULD YOU HAPPILY HAVE STUCK ON A LOOP FOR 20 HOURS AND WHY? Any Stevie Nicks song because she’s fierce! WHAT WILL HAIRDRESSING LOOK LIKE IN 20 YEARS? It’s always evolving, but I can tell you now it’ll still be the same in one regard – the best job on the planet, only with more products!
CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:43
S A W T A H T ! P I R T E M O S ERS, S S E R (HAIRD OURNEY. E L P Y PEO VE HEAD J MEAN N A M E SO HE CREATI R AT WE TO A H E W R T D E N RS, TH EN PART OF E OF WHO A THANK YOU PE A E Y 0 . AST 2 HO HAVE BE RE’S A TAST SPIRATIONS ING TO SHA . P E H T OVER UPPLIERS) W VERYONE, HE ORS, THE IN YEAR, HELP DIRECTIONS K C A GB EE ,S ON RAT TER LOOKIN COMPANIES E TO INCLUD HE COLLABO Y, YEAR UP EVER GREA COME… A O S, T IN BL BRAND ’S IMPOSSI ADVISERS, LONG THE W MAGAZINE EVEN MORE T A E IT E S WHILE XPERTS, TH JOINED US ND STEER TH AND THERE' E , S A – THE DY WHO HA AD SPACE, ITHOUT YOU W R BO EVERY ES, FILL OU AVE DONE IT H AG OUR P E COULDN’T W
ALL PHOTOGRAPHY BY JON BAKER
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20/08/2020 09:30
# C H Tu rn s 2 0 d lo v e fr o m g h
THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A SPEC IAL CONNECTION BETWEEN OUR BRANDS AND OUR PARTNERSHIP UNIQUE. WE STAND FOR SO MA NY OF THE SAME VALUES: PASS REMAINS ION , EDUCATION, INNOVATION AND IN PARTICULAR AT GHD WE VALU MOTIVATION. E THOSE WHO HOLD THE INDUS TRY’S THE RISING STARS. GIVING THEM AN OPPORTUNITY TO SHINE IS SO FUTURE IN THEIR HANDS: THE NEW TALENTS, PRIDE AND IS WHY WE ARE SO PASSIONATE ABOUT SPONSORIN METHING WHICH GIVES US IMMEASURABLE G THE IT LIST. OVER THE YEARS SO MANY TALENTED YOUNG HA WE HAVE SEEN IRDRESSERS WIN IT LIST AWAR DS AN WE LOVE THAT GHD CAN PLAY A PART IN HELPING SHAPE THE FU D THEN GO ON TO ENJOY STELLAR CAREERS. TU ANTONY STRIANESE, ghd MA NAGING DIRECTOR, UK & IRELA RE OF THE INDUSTRY.” ND
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20/08/2020 09:32
# C H Tu rn s 2 0 d lo v e fr o m g h
Charlotte Mensah
ghd creative artist and director of Hair Loungeowner and artistic With ghd: two years
CHARLOTTE’S EXCEPTIONAL SKI LLS and love of hair extend into everyth ing she touches, from her immaculate Portobello Road salon to her remarkable charity work in Africa, empowering women through hair education. As a celebrated industry authority on natural, textured and mixed heritage Afro hair, Charlotte brin gs a fresh, inimitable and authentic approach to her work at ghd, fusing trad itional styling techniques with an inn ate ability to embrace and implem ent new technologies. An entrepreneur ial innovator who is reframing the world of fashion and beauty, ghd is delighted to hav e welcomed Charlotte into its family.
“MY LOOK FEATURES A TRIO OF TEXTURES – THE STRAIGHT-BACK CORN ROWS, THE ’70S SHAGGY FRINGE AND THE BIG, PUFFY PO NY. I FEEL HAIR’S BEEN OVER-STYLED FOR THE PAST 20 YEARS, SO I WANTED TO SHOWCASE EFFORTLE SS STYLING WITH GHD TOOLS AND JUST BRING OUT AND EMBRACE NATUR AL, GOD-GIVEN TEXTURE.” CHARLOTTE MENSAH
PRODUCT LIST: ghd helios professional hair dryer and comb nozzle, ghd profession smooth and finish serum al hair dryer diff
user, ghd curl hold spray and
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20/08/2020 09:34
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, E R U T X R I SOFT TIE A H D A U M U I M
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Fashion Sam Carder at Stella Creative Artists; Make-up Tricia Woolston using NARS; Models (in order shown) Natasha Kasatkina at Body London, Kyra Tavernier at The Hive Management, Amelia Feltham at Body London
CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
# C H Tu rn s 2 0
OF ALL THE printers in all the world, why did we chose Buxton Press, based in the hilly countryside of Derbyshire and with the exuberant Kirk Galloway at the helm? Because they love print as much as we do. Because they’ve helped us work out how to put together all those gatefolds and rollfolds and die-cuts correctly every single time. Because everything they do is of the highest quality. And because they look after us as if we’re family (we even get invited up for staycations!). And while we’ve won a couple of awards of our own during the past two decades, Buxton’s trophy cupboard is practically overflowing: Print Week’s Environmental Company of the Year and Company of the Year an unprecedented five times. That’s why we chose Buxton Press, and we’ll never leave!
“BUXTON PRESS IS DELIGHTED TO HAVE ENJOYED AN EXCELLENT AND LONG-STANDING ASSOCIATION WITH CATHERINE AND HER DEDICATED TEAM AND WE FEEL PRIVILEGED TO HAVE PLAYED A SMALL PART IN THE CREATIVE HEAD SUCCESS STORY. MANY CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR 20TH ANNIVERSARY – RICHLY DESERVED – AND HERE’S TO THE NEXT 20 YEARS!” KIRK GALLOWAY AND ALL YOUR FRIENDS AT BUXTON PRESS
KIRK GALLOWAY FOR BUXTON PRESS SINCE 2001
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20/08/2020 09:38
OVER THE PAST 13 years, we calculate that the team at Spatial Global have picked, packed, folded and wrapped more than 3 million copies of Creative HEAD. That’s a lot of magazines. But if you can count on Spatial for one thing, it’s to deliver. These mailing services specialists ensure salons get their copy delivered to their door, safe and sound, every month. And while the word ‘logistics’ might not get any parties started, commercial manager Andy Berry and his team inject a huge amount of human kindness into what they do, with a brilliant can-do attitude and a desire always to look after our precious magazine as if they’d created it themselves.
SPATIAL GLOBAL SINCE 2007
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“CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL AT CREATIVE HEAD ON CELEBRATING YOUR 20TH ANNIVERSARY! WE HAVE ENJOYED WORKING WITH YOU FOR THE PAST 13 YEARS AND LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING YOUR CONTINUED SUCCESS. VERY BEST WISHES FROM THE MAGAZINE FULFILMENT AND MAILING TEAM AT SPATIAL GLOBAL.” ANDY BERRY, COMMERCIAL MANAGER, AND THE ENTIRE TEAM AT SPATIAL GLOBAL
20/08/2020 09:39
# C H Tu rn s 2 0 th e n ti c lo v e fr o m A u e p t B e a u ty C o n c
“I WANTED TO CREATE A SOFT, DELICATE, ETHEREAL STYLE BUT I ALSO WANTED A BIT OF PUNCHINESS. SOMETHING THAT IS VERY ON-TREND, CERTAINLY WITH AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, IS UPCYCLING. I USED AN ELASTIC – BUT YOU COULD USE LACE OR SHOELACES – TO PULL INTO THE CENTRE AND SECURE MY TWISTED BRAIDS. BASICALLY, CREATING THAT PUNCHINESS BUT KEEPING EVERYTHING SOFT AND FLOATY.” JOSEPH FERRARO
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20/08/2020 09:40
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0 h w a rz k o p f lo v e fr o m S cl P ro fe s s io n a
ROCK ‘N’ ROLL BOHEMIA, ANDROGYNOUS BEAUTY, CELINE S/S20
D WE D 20 YEARS AGO, AN DO EA H VE TI EA CR IN S RST ADVERTISER OM THE BIG HAIR FI FR E . TH CE F N O SI E N ER O EV AS IP EATIVE HEAD L PARTNERSH OFESSIONAL W “SCHWARZKOPF PR TO HAVE MAINTAINED A MEANINGFU OW THAT WHEN WE WORK WITH CR ON. WHAT’S NTI DER E KN COULDN’T BE PROU EVENTS AND PRODUCT LAUNCHES, W CEIVE ALL THE RIGHT KINDS OF ATTE AFRAID RE ER KS TO ESSENTIAL LOO RESULTS WILL BE OUTSTANDING AND ANT INDUSTRY MATTERS AND IS NEV HAVE BEEN RT E TO PO TH D , IM UP ON DELIGHTE ON ANY PROJECT A DESIRE TO SPEAK ANY MORE, WE COULDN’T BE MORE N W O SH S AY W AL ORE!” S AND M MORE, IT'S ALL THESE REASON TWO DECADES – HERE’S TO MANY M S, UK & IRELAND R FO D. AN ST A KE R TO TA PPORTERS FO AGER AND EVENT SU D AN M AN S S P D P N IE AL N FR T IO NAL NAT CONSISTEN ZKOPF PROFESSIO AR W H SC Y, AD R B KAY 52pp_20 Year Shoot.indd 12
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E Earthy Clay;
Cedar; BLONDM A Vibrance Ashy OR IG l na sio es of Schwarzkopf Pr d Super Dr y Flex PRODUCT LIST: 15, Salt Spray an cle ira M l be La OSiS+ Session
“I LOVE THIS WHOLE LOOK. I USED BLONDME EARTHY CLAY ON THE PERIMETER AND UNDERNEATH THE CUT TO CREATE SHADOW AND DEPTH, THEN I LIFTED THE TOP AREA, WORKING IN SEGMENT SLICES AROUND THE HEAD SHAPE, BEFORE TONING WITH IGORA VIBRANCE ASHY CEDAR. FOR THE CUT, I WORKED THROUGH THE BASE LINE, BREAKING IN THE STRONG LINES. THE CONTRAST BETWEEN THE DARKER AND LIGHTER TONES REALLY HELPS TO GIVE THE CUT AND SHAPE STANDOUT, AND THE LOOK A RAW, EARTHY FEEL.” SUZIE MCGILL
incredible SUZIE HAS HAD an ards aw career with many ck ba to es lad co and ac e sh s it up. Not only ha e has sh t, af cr r perfected he at th always understood tion ira sp in d an n io at educ g the are key in producin this d an , ns io best collect hat w is g in nd ta unders a led her to become essional Schwarzkopf Prof om Fr . or ambassad lopment research and deve zie Su to co-ordination, create to am guides her te e is Sh . es ag im beautiful e th of e on as ed regard ssers re ird most talented ha d an in the country essional Schwarzkopf Prof ve her ha is forever proud to . as part of its team
Suzie McGilL
ctor
tic dire sador and artis as b am ks o Lo UK Essential om International ars at Rainbow Rozkopf Professional: 18 ye ar w ch S h it W 52pp_20 Year Shoot.indd 13
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0d o la lo v e fr o m In
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THE ICONIC BOB
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Global ambassador for and creative director at Indola Forty Seven Chiltern StrBilli Currie With Indola: five years eet ANDY WORKS AS part of the cre ative team at Indola on the brand’s Street Style Collections and brings incredible technical skills and techniques to the loo ks. His signature precision cuts and nat ural styling ability have taken him around the globe, while his street style looks for runway shows and creative hair for edi torials and commercial shoots are alw ays an inspiration. Indola is incredibly proud to partner with such a strong and interesting hair artist.
Make-up Cat Parnell using Tom Ford; Models (in order shown) Olga Datsenko at First MGT, Darcey H at BMA, Joanna at Tide
Andy Smith
“I STARTED WITH A SQUARE GR APHIC OUTLINE WITH HIDDEN INTERNAL LAYERS AND A DISRUPTED FRINGE, I TH EN WORKED IN A SECOND CUT, CREAT ING A MORE ROUNDED BASELINE AND USING SCISSOR TIPS TO ADD A FRINGE AND A FREEHAND TECHNIQUE TO DISTO RT AND ADD TEXTURE. I WANTED TO US E COLOUR TO HIGHLIGHT THE SHAPE. ON A BASE 6-7 OVERALL, A DEEP BROWN/BLA OF CK TONE WAS SMUDGED THROUGH THE TIPS AND EDGES TO ADD DEPTH AND A SIL HOUETTE.” ANDY SMITH
PRODUCT LIST: Indola Inn ova Setting Thermal Protec tor Spray, Setting Strong Mo and Texture Wax usse, Finish Smoot
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h Serum, Finish Flexible Hai
r Spray
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TRICIA WOOLSTON SINCE 2010
TRICIA IS AN angel of a make-up artist – exceptionally talented (dreamy skin’s her signature, so far as we’re concerned), wonderfully accommodating and all-embracing, she gives everything to every brief she’s booked on and look she creates. For a decade, and when she wasn’t away filming or with Nigella Lawson as her go-to MUA, Tricia’s beautiful work has wowed the crowds in the studio and on set, graced many a Creative HEAD front cover (including this one), and been captured in multiple video edits. Sorry, Nigella, she’s our girl now!
“WOW! 20 YEARS! WORKING TOGETHER OVER THAT TIME WITH THE TEAM AND SO MANY AMAZING STYLISTS HAS LED TO SOME OF MY MOST FAVOURITE, VALUED AND TREASURED WORK. I FEEL VERY LUCKY TO HAVE ENJOYED MANY EXPERIENCES TOGETHER ON SHOOTS, BACKSTAGE AT EVENTS AND ALSO AS A MWIT JUDGE. EVERYBODY AT CREATIVE HEAD IS ALWAYS SO AMAZING, MAKING EVERYTHING SO SEAMLESS AND A JOY TO EXPERIENCE. HUGE CONGRATULATIONS AND HAPPY ANNIVERSARY, I WISH YOU ALL ANOTHER INCREDIBLE AND CREATIVE 20 YEARS AHEAD – AND THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME BE PART OF THIS AMAZING ANNIVERSARY ISSUE.” TRICIA WOOLSTON
SINCE TAKING UP the role of chief Salon Smart photographer back in 2012, Andy has charmed his way into the hearts not only of all the Creative HEAD team, but also those of our event crews, partners and attendees, too. He is a fantastic image-maker (the man behind many a MWIT and Coterie event album, too), fun, friendly, super reliable, lovely to work with and ALWAYS willing to put in extra time to deliver at crazy o’clock. And Andy genuinely loves hanging out with our crowds, too – something we value so much. Big love.
ANDY LANE SINCE 2012
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“I CAN TRULY SAY IT HAS BEEN A PLEASURE AND AN INSPIRATION TO WORK FOR CREATIVE HEAD OVER THE YEARS AND THE WARMTH, SPIRIT AND ENTHUSIASM THAT BOTH THE TEAM AND THE SUPPORTERS OF CREATIVE HEAD SHOW IS SOMETHING I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED IN ANY OTHER SPHERE. YOU REALLY ARE ONE OF A KIND! HAPPY 20TH BIRTHDAY.” ANDY LANE
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VISION EVENTS SINCE 2011
“WE’VE HAD THE PRIVILEGE TO WORK AND COLLABORATE WITH THE AMAZING CREATIVE HEAD TEAM NOW FOR 10 YEARS. EVENTS SUCH AS SALON SMART HAVE BECOME MORE LIKE AN ANNUAL GATHERING WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY WHO ARE AS CREATIVE, PASSIONATE AND DRIVEN TO DELIVER THE BEST SHOW THEY CAN, AS MUCH AS WE ARE TO HELP PRODUCE THE GOODS FOR THEM EVERY YEAR. ABOVE ALL IS THE FUN WE HAVE TOGETHER ALONG WITH THE HARD WORK THAT GOES INTO TO EACH AND EVERY EVENT. TO CATHERINE, JOANNA AND THE WHOLE TEAM, ON BEHALF OF VISION EVENTS WE’D LIKE TO WISH YOU A WONDERFUL HAPPY 20TH BIRTHDAY AND THE CONTINUED SUCCESS AND GROWTH WE KNOW YOU’LL HAVE FOR MANY YEARS TO COME.” STEVE THORPE, PROJECT DIRECTOR
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THERE CAME A TIME, many moons ago, when our business networking event, Salon Smart, was gathering momentum and growing in stature and it was the right moment to bring in a new production partner. Enter, Vision Events, a live event production agency based in Edinburgh and tasked with the job of ensuring Salon Smart went on to look and sound better than ever. They aced it and we promptly welcomed the team into our Salon Smart family. Last year, project director Steve and his crew produced our debut Dublin programme, and later this month they’ll be streaming Salon Smart Live into the homes and heads of salon owners and managers across the UK, as together we embark upon our very first virtual event. Team Vision Events, we look forward to sharing a glass with you soon!
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0 ré a l lo v e fr o m L 'Oe l P ro fe s s io n n
u i c s a B o n a i t s i r C
rospa ard Hair & Met W rd ha ic R at r Artistic directoProfessionnel: 23 years With L’Oréal sense of Cristiano’s innate tivity in ea cr s hi style and n he is dressing hair mea lents ta re one of those ra ganic or an er liv who can de at glamour. Whether k, on ee W n io sh Fa on Lond in the or ts magazine shoo ral tu na o’s ian salon, Crist re su en t len ta d skills an to that he continues t in os m be one of the s. st yli demand st
G, AND I N WHEN I WAS YOUN – I LOVED “I STUDIED FASHIO THE ’50S AND ’60S WAS FASCINATED BY AND THE KIND OF IMAGERY IR THE BIG, LUXURY HA ES LIKE HARPER’S BAZAAR IN FEATURED IN MAGAZ TO DO SOMETHING THAT TED AND VOGUE. I WAN FERENCES – AND ALSO TO RE E ES RELATED TO TH ARD: SHINY, DAY AT RICHARD W THIS, Y ER EV DO E W T WHA LOVE Y-OF-BODY HAIR. I GLAMOROUS, FULL I WANTED TO GO OVER THE T, AND FOR THIS SHOO AND MAKE IT SPECIAL.” R HE RT FU TOP, PUSH IT IU CRISTIANO BASC
D N A L E E DIANA VR
RTNER EATIVE HEAD – A PA RY. OUR CR H IT W IP SH D N EAR FRIE T INDUST PROUD OF ITS 20-Y OGRESS AND PROMOTE OUR VIBRAN IS EL N N IO SS FE O PR HAS INCORPORATED SLY TO AT TH LS “L’ORÉAL PR EA EY ID RN D U AN JO L ES FU NTINUOU MON VALU A BEAUTI THAT SHARES COM THE PAST TWO DECADES HAS BEEN MUCH MORE THAN A MAGAZINE: IT CO N PERTINENT R IS TO COLLABORATION OVE ORABLE MOMENTS. CREATIVE HEAD FORWARD BY SHINING A SPOTLIGH L AND THANK IT EM O G M CO N D FVI TO THE BIBLE-O HUGE SHIFTS AN E INDUSTRY, DRI AY TH D S H RT RT O BI PP PY SU AP D H AN NT. ” INSPIRES, INFORMS COGNISING AND CELEBRATING TALE SSERS AND SALONS. RE RD AI H L AL RE R AS FO L E TO PLAY TOPICS, AS WEL ROLE YOU CONTINU GENERAL MANAGER, UK & IRELAND LE AB LU VA IN E TH NNEL YOU FOR ORÉAL PROFESSIO L’ , O R O D EO T A IC MON 52pp_20 Year Shoot.indd 18
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, R A A Z A B S R E P R A H 60S ALITHA GETTY, T T O D R A B BRIGITTE PRODUCT LIST: L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Pli, Savage Panache, Rebel Push Up, Super Dust and Infinium Pure
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y a w l r i h T k c i r Jack Mer or at Creative directBeauty & r l: Neville Hai Professionne With L’Oréal 15 years ir tsman. Beautiful ha d Jack is a hair craf an e ur its natural text that complements e is his trademark. nc that oozes confide techniques to ic ss cla of His mastery odern looks defines m to in em th e translat ts in most relevant talen him as one of the the industry today.
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OF SIC – CREATING LOTS AS CL D OO YW LL HO ON A I LOVE TE A MODERN TAKE ESSING IT UP A BIT. “I WANTED TO CREA STRONG AND SET ON THE TOP, AND M LMER ‘ADDICTED TO LOVE’ PA E, FLUFF AND TEXTUR A MASCULINE EDGE. IN THE ROBERT THEY ARE. I WANTED TO H OL IT W CO T W BU FEMININITY ING, THEY KNOW HO .” IL SM ’T EN AR S EL EGOTISM VIDEO, THE MOD EEN SEXINESS AND TW BE E NC LA BA AT FIND TH RLWAY JACK MERRICK-THI
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PRODUCT LIST: L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Pli, Super Dust, Infinium and Air Fix
L O O H C S OLD WOOD, HOLLY AYWORTH, RITA H T PALMER ROBER TED TO LOVE ADDIC VIDEO 52pp_20 Year Shoot.indd 21
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Luke Pluckrose
Creative director at Saks With L’Oréal Professionnel: 10 years Not only does Luke have a unique eye for beauty but his versatility, attention to detail and diverse skillset as a stylist ensure he fulfils the potential of every model he works with. His humble approach paired with an assiduous work ethic have seen his gift for hairdressing recognised across the creative world. A true talent and a joy to work with.
“YOU SEE THIS KIND OF LOOK A LOT ON SYNTHETIC WIGS NOWADAYS, BUT YOU DON’T GENERALLY SEE IT ON REAL HAIR. IT’S DEFINITELY ‘A LOOK’ – IT’S NOT AN EVERYDAY STYLE. ON SHOOTS WE DON’T OFTEN GET THE CHANCE TO DO WHAT WE WANT – I DID THIS TIME, SO I THOUGHT, I’M DOING THIS!” LUKE PLUCKROSE
PRODUCT LIST: L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Pli, Volume Lift, Air Fix and Ring Light
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SOPHISTICATED GLAMOUR, DITA VON TEESE
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Fashion Issie Gibbons at Stella Creative Artis ts; Make-up Tricia Woolston using Fenty Beauty; Models (in order shown) Marie Clavel at Body London, Aimee Kear sley (direct casting), Alessandra Fronteddu at The Hive Management
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0
“I CAN’T ACTUALLY BELIEVE IT’S 20 YEARS SINCE CREATIVE HEAD WAS BORN – IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY THIS VERY BOLD AND BRAVE PUBLICATION CAME THROUGH OUR SALON DOORS. IT THOUGHT NOTHING OF CHALLENGING THE NORMS, SHOUTING ABOUT THE NEW AND THROWING OUT OLD IDEALS. THE MAGAZINE IS PRETTY MUCH AS OLD AS MY CAREER AND I CAN’T THINK OF ANYONE WHO HELPED CHAMPION ME AND BELIEVED IN ME SO MUCH FROM THE VERY BEGINNING, AS CATHERINE HAS DONE. THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND SUPPORT, I WISH YOU A VERY HAPPY BIRTHDAY. WITH LOTS OF LOVE FROM THE HERSHESONS.” LUKE HERSHESON
LUKE HERSHESON SINCE 2000
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LUKE HERSHESON IS one of London’s most innovative stylists – a creator of trends, not a follower. It was Luke who was responsible for Sienna Miller’s short choppy bob that launched a million bobs. It was Luke who brought straighteners to the UK in the early 2000s and created the poker-straight hair that so defined that period. And by insisting that a career in session didn’t mean he couldn’t also work in his family salon, it was Luke who forged a career path that so many have gone down since. Following this incredible, pioneering career, and charting so many of the keynote moments exclusively on the pages of Creative HEAD (including the opening of his ground-breaking new salon on London’s Berners Street), we’ve developed a close and very special relationship with Luke that’s built on mutual trust and respect. We even got to play a part in another very special Hersheson ‘first’, coaxing Luke and his team to stage their very first hair show at Salon Smart last year. And guess what: it was fresh and exciting and unlike anything we’d ever seen before. Of course.
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ZOË IRWIN SINCE 2000
“HAPPY 20TH BIRTHDAY, CREATIVE HEAD. THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR CREATING A WONDERFUL MAGAZINE FOR OUR INDUSTRY – FOR ENCOURAGING AND NURTURING US ALL TO SHOW OUR TRUE SELVES, OUR TRUE PASSIONS AND OUR INDIVIDUAL HAIR LIVES, CELEBRATING DIFFERENCE AND ENCOURAGING OUR VOICES. YOU HAVE CHALLENGED ME WITH YOUR AWARDS AND GIVEN ME A PLACE WHERE I COULD TRULY BE MYSELF. I THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR THE MAGIC YOU HAVE CREATED.” ZOË IRWIN
WE’VE BEEN CRUSHING over Zoë since the very beginning. We love everything about her and her hair journey: carving a niche at Covent Garden’s Stage Door, creative director at Headmasters (by this time beauty editors everywhere were swooning over her, too), stints at Hari’s and Taylor Taylor Liberty – and today, as creative director of John Frieda Salons. A former Guido girl, Zoë is relentless in her pursuit of perfection – researching, referencing, archiving and even taking multiple trips overseas to experience and be inspired by people, trends and culture. Her muses move with the times, as does her work – style collections, colour menus, beautiful, hand-crafted hair accessories, salon education, mentoring young talent, ambassadorships and more. She throws everything she has into everything she creates and somehow manages to fit in a raft of extra-curricular endeavours, too, like this summer’s youth-inspired, colour-popping Hackney Project (check it out on Instagram). But while we’re always ready to show our support, Zoë always does the same, giving up hours, even days of her busy schedule to take part in Creative HEAD initiatives and events year after year: guest editor, judge, host, interviewer, panellist, stylist, presenter – she’s done it all and she cares – about it ALL. Forever yours, Ms Irwin.
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R I A H R O J A M
RKED STRY AND HAVE WO VING THE U D IN R AI H E TH R SION FO S AND PA D HAVE A SHARED VI PIONEERS, PUSHING THE BOUNDARIE UGHT THE COTERIE EA H VE TI EA CR D D BRO “BABYLISS PRO AN YEARS TO IDENTIFY AND NURTURE O AND CREATIVE HEA UBLIN, EDINBURGH PR SS LI Y BY AN BA M R ER H FO , TOGET RPOOL, D TOGETHER IONS. FOR INSTANCE SUCH AS LEEDS, MANCHESTER, LIVE RE THE LIVES OF SOME AT ER EN G EW N R WAY FO UNITY TO EXPLO N TO LOCATIONS O RT D O N S TO PP LO O F E O TH T U Y O TR N ES E COU BABYLISS PRO LIKE VED Y, TH LL D EVENT SERI N UA U O EQ . AR G IN TS IS YL LON ST HAVE LO ING STYL AND GLASGOW, GIV ATED NAMES IN BOTH SESSION AND SA FREEDOM THEY NEED TO THRIVE. WE EE REIN BR VE YLISTS FR OF THE MOST CELE TISTS AND GIVES THEM THE CREATI TS, WHICH GIVE ST LIVE ACTION EN EV ’ ST TI AR AR D H IT RE ILSON’S L ‘FEATU COLLABORATE W EAD ON OUR ANNUA D HAYES’ EERIE HAIR CIRCUS TO KY W , THE MOST WANTED H VE TI EA CR H IT W FROM SY D FINALLY WORKING ALITIES RUN WILD. OTHING WE WON’T LET THEM DO! AN UR CALENDARS. BABYLISS PRO N O RS PE R EI TH T IN O TO LE E’S N IMPORTANT DATES EXPERIENCE, THER ESSES AND NIGHTMARE SALON D FINAL IS ALWAYS ONE OF THE MOST ATING THE BEST SALON-SAVVY BUSIN AME.” N BR RG AND THE IT LIST GRA E SUPPORTER OF THE AWARDS, CELE THOSE ALREADY AT THE TOP OF THEI IM TO HAS BEEN A LONG-T YLISTS ALIKE, FROM FUTURE TALENT RO P ST N SS ECTOR, BABYLI CREATIVE SESSIO IR D G IN ET K AR M P U GINNY HICKS, GRO 52pp_20 Year Shoot.indd 26
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Surina wears leotard by Kim West
BaByliss PRO ambassador and director of QCut With BaByliss PRO: four years
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“I HAD THE CHANCE TO COME UP INSPIRES ME – SOMETHING TH WITH A LOOK THAT REALLY AT I CHOSE TO FOCUS ON TEXTUR I CAN GET CREATIVE WITH. E AND HEIGHT, CREATING SOME BIG HAIR, WITH A HUGE SILHO UETTE. I HOPE YOU ENJOY IT.”
Hairdressing and fashion have always sat sideby-side, and for BaByliss PRO, Syd Hayes has been the link between the two, leading the brand through countless seasons backstage at Fashion Week. Each project we work on with Syd is met with the same energy and enthusiasm that makes even some of the craziest ideas come to life. He is deeply rooted in the fashion industry and brings a new level of creativity and energy to every season, crafting new techniques and pushing boundaries to make each idea more wild and genius than the last.
Syd Hayes
SYD HAYES
PRODUCT LIST: BaByliss
PRO ItaliaBrava Hairdr yer
; BaByliss 9000 Cordless
Straightener
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CORINNE DAY, , CRAIG MCDEAN NTAL 90S EXPERIMEA FASHION CAMP IGNS “I WANTED TO CREATE AN ATTITUDE – A CHARACTER. I USED MY DAUGHTER AS MY MODEL AND I REALLY JUST WANTED TO CREATE A GREAT SHAPE. THERE’S STILL TEXTURE INSIDE, AND THE HAIR LOOKS LIVED IN. I LIKE THE SQUARENESS OF IT – IT REALLY SUITS HER, AS DOES THE ‘I’M NOT HAPPY’ ATTITUDE, WHICH REALLY WORKS WITH THE CHARACTER I’VE TRIED TO CONSTRUCT.” PAUL PERCIVAL
Paul Percival
Maya wears coat by Rue Agthonis
BaByliss PRO ambassador and owner of Percy at Percy & Reed With BaByliss PRO: nine years
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ssion
Paul Percival has become BaByliss PRO’s resident trendsetter and understands the brand and what it’s looking to achieve. He comes at a project from both sides – creatively and commercially – always creating beautiful, aspirational and wearable hair. Paul’s natural habitat is the music industry, working on album covers, backstage at shows or on tour with artists. The inspiration that comes from working with such talented people is the fuel he needs to create consistently gorgeous hair.
A Hair Dryer; BaByliss PRO Titanium Expre PRODUCT LIST: BaByliss PRO ItaliaBRAV Waving Wand
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90S BRIT POP
Jody Taylor BaByliss PRO ambassador and creative director at Joe and Co With BaByliss PRO: four years Jody Taylor is about more than just male grooming. He fuses his traditional barbering skills and knowledge with his creative approach to editorial work to create a link between grooming and fashion. Each of Jody’s hair looks comes with context, often playing on subcultures or style references that give his work an extra dimension. Male styling is a huge part of BaByliss PRO and collaborating with Jody means that the brand always stay focused and current.
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“LAWRENCE AND HARRY ARE IN A BAND TOGETHER – THEY’RE BOTH ART STUDENTS, TOO. THEY’RE PART OF A COOL GENERATION COMING THROUGH NOW, AND A LOT OF THEIR OWN INFLUENCES ARE FROM THE ’90S. SO I WANTED TO TAKE THAT ’90S RAVE, HIP-HOP MOVEMENT AND KIND OF BRING THAT INTO THE HAIR AND THE FASHION – CREATE SOMETHING QUITE LOW-KEY, EASY AND REAL.” JODY TAYLOR
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Fashion Mekel Bailey at Undercranked assisted by Max Brogan, Elz Harding, Ethan Legarta, Connie Lewis and Jadzia Scott; Make-up Stefan Jemeel at Stella Creative Artists using Glossier; Lesley Vye using MAC Cosmetics; Models (in order shown) Surina Whall at IMG, Maya Percival at Next, Lawrence Perry and Harry Westcott at Select
Harry (left) wears top by Burberry, bottoms by Adidas; Lawrence wears jacket by Army Surplus, top by Burberry, bottoms by Maison Margiela
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PRODUCT LIST: BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 13mm Curling Tong; BaByliss PRO Super Motor Clipper and Trimmer Collection; BaByliss 9000 Cordless Straightener
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HE ANSWERED OUR ad for a Classified Sales Executive back in 2005, and to be honest it was a no-brainer. The original ‘chatty man’, David is friendly, personable and possessed of a razor-sharp memory – talking to clients about their businesses, he would remember every single detail for years to come, people loved it! So he got the job, and never left. Even though our Classified section is long since gone, David is still very much a part of our team and only wild horses (aka a golfing accident) have kept him away from our Christmas party every year.
DAVID HAMMOND SINCE 2005
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“IN MY 45 YEARS WORKING FOR VARIOUS PUBLICATIONS IN LOTS OF DIFFERENT INDUSTRIES, MY ROLE WITH CREATIVE HEAD HAS BEEN ONE OF THE MOST ENJOYABLE. ALTHOUGH I AM THE OLDEST BY QUITE A FEW YEARS, WORKING WITH CREATIVE HEAD MAKES ME FEEL YOUNGER; I AM ALWAYS TREATED AS ONE OF THE FAMILY AND I HAVE MANY JOYFUL MEMORIES BEING PART OF THE TEAM. HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CREATIVE HEAD – 20 YEARS AND STRONGER THAN EVER! I AM PROUD TO BE A PART OF THIS GREAT ADVENTURE.” DAVID HAMMOND
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DAWN LI
SINCE 2000 “WORKING WITH CREATIVE HEAD – ON THE MAGAZINES AND ON MANY OTHER BRANDING AND EVENTS PROJECTS THAT HAVE BECOME VERY DEAR TO MY HEART – HAS BEEN A FANTASTIC RIDE. AND OF COURSE, I HAVE LOVED WORKING WITH SUCH A GREAT BOSS, CATHERINE, AND THE FABULOUS TEAM.” GRAEME WHITE
“WORKING WITH A TALENTED AND HIGHLY CREATIVE TEAM OVER THE PAST 20 YEARS, DEVELOPING THE CREATIVE HEAD ONLINE PRESENCE HAS BEEN FANTASTIC. I’VE WATCHED CREATIVE HEAD GROW, BUT THE VISION HAS ALWAYS REMAINED THE SAME, SHOWCASING THE BEST IN THE INDUSTRY. THE WEBSITES HAVE GIVEN ME THE OPPORTUNITY TO FLEX MY OWN CREATIVE MUSCLES USING THE UNIQUE BRANDING PRODUCED BY THE TEAM AND THE FREEDOM TO BUILD ON THAT, TO CREATE SOME STRONG, VISUAL WEBSITES.” DAWN LI
Woah! Without Dawn there would be no Creative HEAD website, no event microsites, no Layered Online. A rule-breaker and creative conspirator since the early days, Dawn’s an exceptional design talent who’s helped us to realise so many of our dreams, especially online. And the funny thing is, she’s always so calm, so supportive and so totally in control that when you’re pushing the boundaries and breaking all this new ground it actually feels completely normal... Where would we be without Dawn?
SHARP. WITTY. UNFORGETTABLE. And that’s just his typography! If you want a new logo, new graphics, or a complete brand ID re-design (as we often do), Graeme White is your man – our man! An experienced magazine designer at the highest level (his CV featured Condé Nast, IPC Media and News International before he arrived at Creative HEAD), Graeme’s high-impact use of typeface and colour has helped us to build some of our most popular concepts – from the bubbly Coterie branding (the logo neatly communicating ‘audience’ and ‘conversation’) to the awesome power of the Most Wanted & The It List Awards. We’re also indebted to Graeme for our playful ‘Pac-Man’ Creative HEAD logo, in use since 2013 and currently pimped by head designer Nick for our 20th anniversary.
GRAEME WHITE SINCE 2007
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Josh Denholm
CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
WAVES, STUDIO 54, INSPIRED FASHION BDISCOLAURENT, VICTORIA Y SAINT AND PACO RABANN BECKHAM E Paul Mitchell internation and owner of Reilly Denhal stylist and educator olm With Paul Mitchell: 19 years
Josh’s natural style speaks to high-o that’s also achievable for his gue ctane glamour, but one sts in-salon. His passion for session work is as abundant as it is when he’s behind the cha ir in his salon, always full of fun and taking it all in his stride. Jos h’s enthusiasm is infectious and his talent for all aspects of hai r is understandably award-winning – and that’s why Paul Mitchell adores working with him.
“FROM SCULPTED TO BEACHY AND LIVED-IN, WAVES ARE MY GO-TO STYLE AND CONSTANT HAIR CRUSH. FOR THIS LOOK, I USED PAUL MITCHELL NEURO CURL TO HEAT-SET THE WAVES, WORKING ON DIAGONAL SECTIONS AROUND THE HEAD AND IN THE SAME DIRECTION. ONCE SET AND COOL, I USED A LARGE WIDE TOOTH COMB TO LOOSEN THE SET AND RELEASE THE TEXTURE, CREATING AN AIRY, UNDONE ’70S KIND OF FINISH. I LOVE HOW PLAYFUL AND REAL THIS IS.” JOSH DENHOLM
PRODUCT LIST: Paul Mitche ll Neuro Curl, Paul Mitchell Flexible Style, Hot off the Pre Extra Body Finishing Spray ss, and Gloss Drops
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0 lo v e fr o m ll Pa u l M it c h e
OF “THIS IS AN EXPLOSION TO UP D BLONDE CURL, ALL TIE D CREATE MORE HEIGHT, AN TIFUL DECORATED WITH BEAU E TH S FIT CH FLOWERS, WHI Y M S WARDROBE AND FIT ALL MODEL’S BEAUTY – SHE’S !” READY FOR SOMETHING I SK EL CI STEPHANIE KO
VE TIONS WITH CREATI . RA O AB LL CO D AN OUR RELATIONSHIP VITIES THEY CREATE “WE REALLY ENJOY BULOUS AFFILIATED EVENTS AND ACTI D INNOVATIVE IN FA AN HEAD AND ALL THE LY ON THE PULSE OF THE INDUSTRY G OF MINDS THAT N RM FI EE D IS A GREAT M TI M ARTICLES TO WITH ITS FINGER EA H VE TI EA CR H IT FRO GW ITS IDEAS, WORKIN AND ELEVATES OUR BRAND ACTIVITY. ONS, THE TEAM TI TS BOTH COMPLEMEN ESS EVENTS TO CREATIVE COLLABORA VIDE CUTTINGSIN PRO PHOTOSHOOTS, BU D ALWAYS SEEKS TO Y TIME.” AN RT EA H AT ER SS ER HAS THE HAIRDRE DELIVERS JUST WHAT’S NEEDED EV EDGE CONTENT THAT R OF PUBLICITY, SALON SUCCESS TO ZOË VEARS, DIREC
i k s l ie c o K ie n a Steph
ns y customer relatio Paul Mitchell VP ke ns lo sa or of ARCS and artistic direct 37 years ll: he itc M With Paul lping people of the end result and he e makes ing nk thi – se rpo pu th sh rreal, and crazy wi ator and artistic director ople. And Stephanie’s style is su a platform artist, educ pe As ht e. rig tim the a th at e wi t nc ou rie s ks. She hang ris es get there, one expe tak e Sh . n on the als rso go pe ts . She se luckiest change a constant thing her face every minute and feels like she’s the on she always has a smile tchell loves working with Stephanie! Mi ul Pa y wh is IS TH t. plane
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
shown) Isobel Dodd at First MGT, Sia at M+P Make-up Stefan Jemeel at Stella Creative Artists using Glossier; Models (in order PRODUCT LIST: Paul Mitchell Neuro Unclipped Small Cone, Paul Mitchell Dry Wash, Extra Body Firm Finishing Spray, Extra Body Finishing Spray, Freeze and Shine Super Spray and Awapuhi Wild Ginger Styling Treatment Oil
TIM BURTON, DR SEUSS... QUIRKY AND OFF-THE-WALL 52pp_20 Year Shoot.indd 37
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0
MICHAEL BURMAN SINCE 2002
“I AM DELIGHTED TO WISH CREATIVE HEAD CONGRATULATIONS ON 20 YEARS OF EXHILARATING, POSITIVE AND SUCCESSFUL PUBLISHING. A COMBINATION OF ENTHUSIASM, INNOVATION AND A REAL RAPPORT AND UNDERSTANDING OF THE HAIR INDUSTRY HAVE ENSURED THAT WHAT LOOKED LIKE A BRAVE MOVE 20 YEARS AGO HAS NOW BECOME AN INDISPENSABLE SOURCE OF IDEAS AND SUPPORT AND INFORMATION. CATHERINE HAS ALWAYS BEEN WILLING TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES ON BEHALF OF BOTH HER READERS AND HER ADVERTISERS AND WE ARE PROUD TO HAVE BEEN ABLE TO PLAY A PART OF THAT INFECTIOUS ENTHUSIASM. WE LOOK FORWARD TO THE NEXT 20 YEARS.” MICHAEL BURMAN
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MEET MICHAEL BURMAN, managing director of FE Burman in South London, and the most creative printer we know. Over the past 18 years he’s helped us to achieve everything we ever wanted, from the impeccable to the (almost) impossible – in print. The man is a genius. Passionate about what he does and a true innovator, Michael creates magic out of paper and ink: Most Wanted tickets in creamy 300gsm vellum with guest names lavishly picked out in shining silver foil block… Salon Smart delegate packs, all super-crisp pristine white and sharply folded… thousands of Creative HEAD front covers, each personalised with the recipient’s name and a unique message… Michael makes our products look so, so pretty and so, so premium. And we love the man, too. He’s flexible and patient with us, and always excited to share a new idea.
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ANNA COFONE SINCE 2001
“THANK YOU AGAIN FOR INVITING ME TO BE A PART OF THIS SPECIAL ISSUE. I REALISED YESTERDAY IT WILL BE 20 YEARS IN OCTOBER SINCE QUALIFYING AS A HAIRDRESSER AND TO THINK THAT SHORTLY AFTER THAT I ENTERED THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TALENTSPOTTING COMPETITION… HOW TIME FLIES BUT ALSO HOW AMAZING THIS JOURNEY HAS BEEN AND TO HAVE HAD YOUR AND THE TEAM’S SUPPORT OVER THE YEARS MEANS EVERYTHING” ANNA COFONE
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WE FIRST CLAPPED eyes on Anna when she competed in L’Oréal Professionnel’s aptly named Talentspotting competition back in 2001 (she went on to win – and we weren’t surprised, given her real and obvious talent). Suitably impressed, we invited her to join the line-up in a ‘Young Brits’ feature, exploring the creative minds of the industry’s most exciting up-and-coming stars. Anna sent in doodles, cut-out pictures and handwritten notes that not only brought her own pages to life but also inspired our head designer Nick to develop the edgy, raw scrapbook-style layouts that became a signature style of Creative HEAD magazine. Nineteen years and a couple of appearances at our Coterie events down the line, we reunited with Anna – now styling a host of music stars including Dua Lipa and Lana del Rey – as a star of our The Industry documentary, following the career paths of seven hair professionals. And you know what? She’s as creative and self-effacing today as she was back then. “Listen, be kind, humble and attentive,” is her advice to others.
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0e ll a lo v e fr o m W ls P ro fe s s io n a
BEGINNING SUPPORT CREATIVE HEAD; FROM THE E GREAT “WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS PROUD TO PROJECTS TOGETHER AND SHARED SOM E IBL RED INC E SOM ON D RKE WO E WE HAV T CONSTANTLY DELIVERS INNOVATION THA D, HEA VE ATI CRE E LIK ND BRA A E MOMENTS. TO HAV NDOUS. IT’S A RMS AND INDUSTRY EVENTS, IS TREME TFO PLA E LIN ON , INE GAZ MA NT PRI IN ITS RS.” Y AND TO CELEBRATE 20 AMAZING YEA PLEASURE TO BE PART OF THE JOURNE LAND IRE & ONALS GENERAL MANAGER, UK SSI OFE PR LLA WE , EIN LST HO VAN NICK
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
“I SEE MY MODEL AS A NEW YORK SOCIALITE – SHE’S DONE WELL IN LIFE, SHE’S TRAVELLED A LOT, AND SHE’S PICKED UP LOADS OF COOL JUNK AND STYLING INFLUENCES ALONG THE WAY. I REALLY LIKE THAT MIXED VIBE – OLD-SCHOOL RETRO WITH MODERN DETAILS, AND A BIT OF GRUNGE. EVEN THOUGH THE COLOUR IS PUMPED TO CREATE A MORE LUXURIOUS AND EDITORIAL FINISH, THE STACKING AND THE MOVEMENT IN THE HAIR IS ABOUT PLAYING WITH BOUNCE AND TEXTURE, MAKING IT MORE REAL AND TOUCHABLE.” DARREN AMBROSE
Darren Ambrose Wella guest artist and co-owner of D&J Ambrose With Wella Professionals: more than 20 years
WOODSTOCK, STEVIE NICKS, JEAN SHRIMPTON
Darren Ambrose is a genius when it comes to hairdressing as an art form, creating 360-degree looks that are visually mesmerising. Every image has a story like no other, and the journey that Darren takes us on to understand his creations is both unique and wonderful. Darren’s work is not just about amazing hair; he takes us to a place that fuses fashion, trends and history. This, combined with his impeccable technical knowledge, is why Wella Professionals loves to partner with him.
als PRODUCT LIST: Wella Professionals Illumina Color 9/0, 10/1 8/1; Wella Profession als Profession Wella 8/13; 10/96, ME+ Perfect Koleston als Profession BlondorPlex; Wella Dry Color Fresh 10/36; Wella Professionals EIMI Natural Volume Hair Mousse, Dry Me Shampoo and Glam Misk; System Professional LuxeOil Reconstrucitve Elixir
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Robert Eaton Wella Professionals UK and Ireland technical director and creativ e director at Russell Eaton With Wella Professionals: at the start, and for the past 10 years
Robert Eaton is truly an iconic hair artis t. He is a visionary who creates beautiful, wea rable and utterly stunning hair; he colours in a way that pushes creative boundaries while still looking commercial, feminine and beautiful. Robert’s technical ability and understanding of colour, light and hair texture, combined with his willingness to always share and educate others, make him a pleasure to work with. Robert is uniq ue and inspiring – a combination that Wella Professionals is honoured to showcase.
PRODUCT LIST: Wella Professiona ls KPME+ 10/95, 6/3, 7/17; Wella Professionals Color Fresh Create Vintage Blush, High Magenta, Nud ist Pink; System Professional Blue Shaper Blowdry Hydro-Gel, Energy Control Flexible Hold Hair Spray and LuxeOil Rec onstrucitve Elixir
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
“I WANTED THIS LOOK TO HAVE A FEMININE AND ROMANTIC FEEL – SOMETHING WITH STRONG CLIENT APPEAL, BUT WHICH ALSO TALKED ABOUT COLOUR AND TEXTURE. THE COLOUR IS A CHERRY WOODINSPIRED PINK-BRUNETTE – A LIVED-IN, SOFT TONE. THE STYLING WAS ALL ABOUT CURL, TEXTURE, MOVEMENT – SOMETHING THAT REALLY SHOWCASES THE BEAUTY OF MULTI-TEXTURE.” ROBERT EATON
L R U C , E R U T X E T , R U O L O C
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�70S PUNK
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
Wella guest artist and creative director at HOB Salons With Wella Professionals: 37 years Akin Konizi has a 20:20 vision like no other. Widely recognised for his precision cutting and the ability to turn ‘ordinary’ into ‘extraordinary’, when Akin develops a concept, the quality of his work and craftsmanship is exemplary. He is a true mentor and icon, his beautiful style is wearable yet progressive, and his ability to take trends and incorporate them into stunning, show-stopping hair makes him one of the most highly decorated hairdressers of recent times.
ME+ PRODUCT LIST: Wella Professionals Blondor; Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect New Clear, Blue, Powder Create Fresh Color als Profession Wella 3/0; 0/28, 10/8, 0/88, Spray; Blue, Super Petrol, Never Seen Green; Wella Professionals EIMI Perfect Setting Hair Hairspray Sebastian Professional Dark Oil and Shaper Fierce
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Fashion Isseie Gibbons at Stella Creative Artists; Make-up Eli Wakamatsu at Stella Creative Artists using Glossier; Models (in order shown) Nathalie S at The Hair Desk, Thea at The Hair Desk, Caroline Ortoli
Akin Konizi
“I DECIDED ON AN EDGY LOOK, WITH A STRONG CUT BUT STILL WEARABLE ON THE STREET. IT’S BASED ON THE GEOMETRY AND PRECISION OF ALL HOB TECHNIQUES, BUT AT THE SAME TIME MESSY, TRIBAL. THE COLOURS WERE USED TO ENHANCE THE CUT – ALTHOUGH VERY STRONG, THEY WORK WITH THE MODEL’S SKIN TONE AND NATURAL HAIR COLOUR. IT’S ALL ABOUT THE GIRL AND NOT PURELY ABOUT WHAT SHE WEARS ON HER HEAD.” AKIN KONIZI Colour by Warren Boodaghians at HOB Salons
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# C H Tu rn s 2 0
A MORE RECENT addition to Creative HEAD’s preferred supplier list, the awesome team at Sledge has helped to take our video content to another level. A regular on cover shoot call sheets, repeatedly booked to produce our Coterie: In Session live soirées, and always ready to help us brainstorm and finesse new concepts and ideas, the genuinely brilliant and unflappable bunch brings energy, fresh thinking and fun times to every project while delivering insanely beautiful, high-quality edits to boot. A cool crew indeed – we’ve become fast friends.
“THE CREATIVE HEAD TEAM HAS A PASSION FOR THE INDUSTRY AND ALL THOSE INVOLVED WITHIN IT, AND WORKING WITH THEM OVER THE YEARS REALLY FEELS LIKE WE ARE PART OF THE FAMILY. FOR US THIS IS A UNIQUE ENVIRONMENT TO BE A PART OF AND WHEN WE COME TOGETHER ON SET OR FOR AN EVENT IT REALLY IS A GREAT PARTNERSHIP THAT CREATES SOMETHING PRETTY FABULOUS!” SARAH YEATS, MANAGING DIRECTOR (PICTURED BELOW RIGHT)
SLEDGE
SINCE 2016
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THE RECIPE SINCE 2014
“WE LOVE CATERING FOR THE ANNUAL MOST WANTED AND IT LIST AWARDS AND WE HOPE THAT YOU LOVE OUR FOOD JUST AS MUCH! IT'S ALWAYS SUCH A TREAT FOR OUR TEAM TO WORK ON THE AWARDS, AND AFTER 20 YEARS, HERE’S TO 20 MORE!” JOHN STOCKTON, MANAGING DIRECTOR (PICTURED ABOVE LEFT)
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FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD… and cocktails and glassware and crockery and candles and chefs and sommeliers and waiters. Wowsers! Catering firm The Recipe serves it all up – and more! Stir in lashings of creativity and a splash of drama, add a generous portion of professionalism, pour in the panache and finally fold in a big spoonful of passion and you’ve got the perfect mix, and it’s all gone down SO well at our MWIT Grand Finals for the past seven years!
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SAM MCKNIGHT SINCE 2013
“CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR FIRST 20 YEARS! I AM ABSOLUTELY THRILLED TO BE A PART OF IT, LOOKING FORWARD TO ANOTHER 20.” SAM MCKNIGHT
SAM MCKNIGHT IS, of course, a hairdressing god, and the proof (should it be required) lies in the three Most Wanted Hair Icon trophies that currently festoon his North London mantelpiece. But there’s another reason why we love and admire him so. Seven years ago, and with the full encouragement of his agency, Premier Hair & Make-up (see opposite), Sam stepped out of his sparkling Chanel, Fendi, Vivienne Westwood, Balmain and Burberry-infused world to join an audience of Creative HEAD readers in an old school hall in West London and share his experiences and insight in a unique Coterie event. In doing so, he single-handedly began dismantling the boundaries that had divided the session and salon worlds for so long. It was a landmark, magical moment. And it’s a process Sam’s not stopped since, regularly involving himself in the ‘Creative HEAD World’ and also inviting our readers to join him in his – whether for private viewings of his Hair By Sam McKnight exhibition at Somerset House, or to help style catwalk hair at fashion weeks. He has his private side too, of course – even though he occasionally reveals his secret garden in London (where this shot was taken), where the tumble of roses, camellias, tulips and daffodils are far away from fashion. “A garden is totally solitary,” he says. “The work is meditative and it’s at my own pace. I don’t have to answer to anyone. There are no rules. I make it up as I go along.” Creative HEAD bows down to Superman Sam McKnight – master hair stylist and force of nature.
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"YOU HAVE BEEN A REAL INSPIRATION TO ALL IN OUR INDUSTRY AND PREMIER HAS LOVED WORKING WITH YOU AND WATCHING YOU GROW OVER ALL THESE YEARS.” LINDSAY CRUICKSHANK, DIRECTOR (PICTURED RIGHT) AND HELEN LISLE-TAYLOR, SENIOR AGENT (LEFT)
OVER THE YEARS, we’ve been fortunate to have worked with some of the industry’s most brilliant and most exciting talents – but if it wasn’t for Premier Hair & Make-up, would we have enjoyed quite so many unparalleled opportunities to hook up with the best? We think not. In fact, it was with a certain Mr Sam McKnight (featured left), no less, back in March 2013, for a very special Coterie event, when a much-beloved relationship blossomed. Since then, we’ve called upon so many of the talents on Premier’s books for interviews and quotations, to take part in shoots, speak at live events, to judge our awards – and more. And we’re so grateful our calls are always answered! We’re completely in love with director Lindsay and her gorgeous team and totally respect how everybody rallies with us to make magic things happen.
“CONGRATULATIONS CREATIVE HEAD FOR AN AMAZING 20 YEARS. YOU HAVE BEEN A REAL INSPIRATION TO ALL IN OUR INDUSTRY AND PREMIER HAVE LOVED WORKING WITH YOU AND WATCHING YOU GROW” – CREDIT TO COME
PREMIER HAIR AND MAKE-UP SINCE 2013
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DEBORAH MURTHA DEPUTY EDITOR SINCE 2018
AMANDA NOTTAGE EDITOR (UK) SINCE 2008
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SINCE 2020
ADAM WOOD
PUBLISHER SINCE 2000
ART DIRECTOR SINCE 2001
SPEC
CHIEF SUB EDITOR SINCE 2010
CK CATHERINE HANDCO
NICK JABBAL
BELLA PETERS TANT IAL PROJECTS ASSIS
JOANNA ANDERSEN ECTOR
DIR SPECIAL PROJECTS 04 20 CE SIN
LAURA MACLEOD DIRECTOR SINCE 2007
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EVA VESTMANN
DIGITAL DESIGNER SINCE 2014
ASSISTANT ONLINE AND DIGITAL SINCE 2018
JENNY BROOKS GER IAL PROJECTS MANA
SPEC
KELSEY DRING
ALISON ROWLEYITOR
ONLINE AND DIGITAL SINCE 2015
ED
ANNA SAMSON
EDITOR (IRELAND) SINCE 2015
SINCE 2018
F F A T S E TH S M A E R OF D
E THERE SHOULD BE RK WE DO MAKES IT LOOK LIK WO OF NT OU AM E TH T BU , OTS HELD, ST 13 OF US DE, DEALS SEALED, PHOTOSHO MA LLS MEET THE TEAM. THERE’S JU CA E ON PH D, NE SIG DE E WRITTEN, PAGES GROWN… EAT. SLEEP. TEN TIMES MORE. ARTICLES AR SOCIAL MEDIA FOLLOWINGS , ED RD CO RE S AST DC PO D, TIMES EVEN R CHECKE LIDAYS, WEDDINGS AND SOME HO – EVENTS ORGANISED, GRAMMA H NC BU D ATE DIC DE . IS S FIRST FOR TH AND SALON SMART WEEKENDS S AL FIN D AN GR ED REPEAT. CREATIVE HEAD COME NT WA ST TEAD… THEY DON’T CLASH WITH MO D CARRIED ON FROM HOME INS AN BIRTHS ARE ALL PLANNED SO LM CA PT KE ST JU WE – STOP US NOT EVEN A PANDEMIC COULD 52pp_20 Year Shoot.indd 51
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JON BAKER SINCE 2009
FOR MORE THAN a decade we’ve had the absolute privilege of working with photographer extraordinaire Jon Baker – the man behind dozens and dozens of Creative HEAD front covers (this issue included), as well as every MWIT Grand Final photoshoot since 2009. This very selfie was taken in front of another of his photographic masterpieces. And of course, Jon single-handedly delivered all 80 images contained within this awesome 20th anniversary celebration of people, creativity and superstar style. Not only are we, frankly, obsessed with Jon’s signature style of photography, what also never fails to impress us (while surprising others) is the fact Jon will rock up to a studio with zero entourage, very little kit – and no ego. Plus, he’s friendly, fast, cool and kind – and knows how to make even the most camera-shy subject relax for a shot. Jon, you are exceptional at what you do, and you have done us proud. Never gonna give you up…
THAT'S A WRAP.
TWO DAYS OF ZOOM-FACILITATED PORTRAITURE, SEVEN DAYS IN THE STUDIO, 14 DAYS TRAVELLING THE UK ON LOCATION SHOOTS (TASKS THAT HAD SEEMED SO DO-ABLE WHEN WE DISCUSSED THIS SHOOT IN EARLY 2020!)… THIS 52-PAGE FEAT OF PHOTOGRAPHIC WONDERMENT, SPRINKLED WITH MAGICAL MESSAGES, SMACKING OF STYLE AND CELEBRATING AWE-INSPIRING NAMES AND FACES, IS A FEAST FOR THE EYES AND A THING OF PURE BEAUTY – AND WE’RE SO PROUD TO DELIVER IT TO YOU, OUR DEAR READERS. WE HOPE YOU’VE ENJOYED EVERY BLISSFUL PIXEL.
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FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS
CLUB
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The first 20 readers to sign up in September will receive a JOICO K-PAK or K-PAK Color Therapy shampoo and conditioner duo, worth £48!* One lucky Creative HEAD Club member will win a heavenly hamper of the entire JOICO K-PAK range worth more than £159!
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*For the first 20 new members to sign up between 1 September and 30 September 2020, 10 to receive JOICO K-PAK shampoo and conditioner duo, 10 to receive or JOICO K-PAK Color Therapy shampoo and conditioner duo. **Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered.
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Charlotte Mensah in 2000
by Dirty French Girl and Anne Veck
00 Anne Veck in 20
# C H Tu rn s 2 0
T S U J … Y A S TO India
and J ason
Miller
in 20 00
Lisa Farrall aged 20
AGES HOUT MESS IT W Y A D H T E! 'T BE A BIR U EVERYON O Y IT WOULDN K N A H T , AND GIFTS
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CREATIVE HEAD
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FOR MORE birthday fun, head to creativeheadmag.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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Michael Young and Gary Hooker in 2000
in 2000
Paul Percival and daughter in 2000
ron-Hough
Christel Bar
by Anthony Turner
“OUR MISSION IS TO SPREAD THE CULTURE OF BEAUTY AND TO INSPIRE A BEAUTY THAT CREATES CULTURE. A BEAUTY THAT IS FREE FROM STEREOTYPES AND ENHANCES UNIQUENESS: A SUSTAINABLE AND LASTING, TRUE AND VISIONARY BEAUTY” 54
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TRUE. VISIONARY. BEAUTY
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TRUE TO ITSELF, AND VISIONARY Kemon is a story of commitment, not only to being at the forefront of innovation, but also to family and tradition. Our mission is to spread the culture of beauty and to inspire beauty that creates culture. A beauty that is free from stereotypes and that enhances uniqueness: a sustainable and lasting, true and visionary beauty.
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We believe the cosmetics industry will experience a new cultural transformation towards promoting a truer and more innovative concept of beauty: free from stereotypes and allowing everyone the freedom to express their personal style. Kemon aims to be a reference point, supporting and guiding hairdressers through their professional evolution.
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A FAMILY BUSINESS Kemon was founded in 1959 in San Giustino, in the picturesque Umbria region of Italy. For 60 years and over three generations, the Nocentini family has combined their work with their personal values of quality, ingenuity and passion to spearhead an evolution of the concept of beauty. The responsibility we feel towards others is a driving force. We relate first and foremost to people, and follow one essential principle: listen before you suggest and create solutions.
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COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABILITY Promoting sustainable use of resources is the simplest and most natural way to achieve muchneeded harmony with our ecosystem. That is why at Kemon we use only multi-utility certified energy produced from renewable sources. Using 100 per cent clean energy, we are contributing to reducing pollution, implementing renewable energy development and reducing greenhouse gases. The sustainability of our cosmetics is characterised by carefully taken decisions on packaging: the packaging, containers, labels and caps of most of our lines are 100 per cent recyclable PET, glass, paper or aluminum. What’s more, some of our packaging is made from sustainable ecofriendly sugar cane. Product boxes, leaflets and communication materials are made from paper with 60 per cent recovered fibres and 40 per cent FSC-certified post-consumer fibres. In addition, we use only Steinbeis unbleached recycled paper in our offices. Compared to producing virgin paper, every 500 sheets of recycled paper used saves 83 per cent of water, 72 per cent of electricity and 53 per cent of CO2 emissions into the environment. Only through careful daily decisions taking sustainability and ecology into account can our quality of life and that of future generations be preserved and improved.
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YO COLOR SYSTEM THE EVOLUTION OF HAIR COLOUR – A TRILOGY OF PRODUCTS, A SUPER-PROTECTIVE SYSTEM
Kemon’s Yo Color System transforms hair colour into a complete wellness treatment. The gentle, yoghurt-based, ammoniafree formulations contain certified organic ingredients that protect the health of the hair, respecting its structure, while delivering excellent results: gentleness, coverage and lasting shine. A reliable and gentle system – a natural touch for healthy hair and intense, long-lasting tones.
GENTLE PERMANENT COLOUR ITS CREAMY TEXTURE CONTAINS NO AMMONIA OR FRAGRANCE. ACHIEVES PERFECT COVERAGE OF GREY HAIR AND INTENSE, BRILLIANT COLOUR RESULTS. • Quick and easy to apply • Lightens up to 4/5 levels, thanks to the super-lighteners • Total uniformity of tone • Extraordinarily long-lasting results • Intermixable shades for bespoke results • Up to 70 per cent of ingredients from natural origins
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TONE-ON-TONE COLOURING EASILY PENETRATES THE HAIR WITHOUT COMPROMISING THE STRUCTURE, DELIVERING LONG-LASTING COLOUR RESULTS AND LEAVING HAIR FEELING SOFT WITH A BRILLIANT SHINE • Essentially neutral pH • Does not lighten hair • Fragrance-free • Paraben-free • SLES/SLS-free • Silicone-free
DIRECT CONDITIONING COLOUR GLAZE COLOURS AND NOURISHES IN A SINGLE STEP, CREATING MAXIMUM LUMINOSITY AND HAIR THAT’S FULL OF VITALITY • Acid pH • Acts in just three minutes • Simple to use • For all hair types • Easily removed • Up to 86 per cent of ingredients from natural origins
• Up to 84 per cent of ingredients from natural origins
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THE VELIAN COMPLEX In 2006 in the hills of Umbria, not far from our plant, we converted 20 hectares of land to organic farming. Two years later we created the Kemon Open Lab, an open-air laboratory where, still today, we carry out our research activity with plants. The results – and the impact on our cosmetics – have been unprecedented. The Kemon Velian Complex is a patented blend of plant extracts resulting from extensive research conducted by Kemon in collaboration with Vivacell Biotechnology and the University of Ferrara. The studies showed that “specific blends of extracts of Mullein, Helichrysum, Flax and Dyer’s Chamomile, produced using plants grown by Kemon… possess noteworthy anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant characteristics” and that the patented Kemon Velian Complex produces an important synergistic effect, with results greater than those expected from the sum of the individual extracts.
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ACTYVA
THE FINE LINE BETWEEN SCIENCE AND NATURE Created in Umbria’s Upper Tiber Valley with 40 naturally derived ingredients, including Kemon’s exclusive and patented Velian Complex, Actyva treatments are vegan certified, come in eco packaging and enhance the beauty of hair while maintaining a healthy scalp.
BELLESSERE
NUOVO FIBRA
Preserves the natural beauty of skin and hair
Restores elasticity to ageing, weakened or damaged hair
NUTRIZIONE
SPECIFICI
Restores moisture to dry and dried-out hair
Beautiful hair begins with a healthy scalp
DISCIPLINA
P FACTOR
Tames and softens frizzy, unruly hair
Prevents hair loss and keeps hair healthy
COLORE BRILLANTE
LINFA SOLARE
Enhances, protects and maintains colour intensity and shine
Protects, nourishes and quenches sun-exposed hair and skin
VOLUME E CORPOSITA Delivers body and volume to fine hair
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ACTYVABIO NATURAL BORN BEAUTY
Actyvabio is the first organic professional haircare line certified to the Cosmos Organic standard. Enriched with patented phyto-complexes with proven soothing properties, it contains up to 97 per cent natural origin ingredients and up to 86 per cent organic ingredients and its packaging is both recycled and recyclable.
ACQUA MICELLARE ESSENZIALE
SHAMPOO ESSENZIALE
IN-SALON DETOXIFYING TREATMENT
GENTLE CLEANSING GEL SHAMPOO
BALSAMO ESSENZIALE MOISTURISING AND SOFTENING BALM
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SHAMPOO ESSENZIALE RICCO MOISTURISING AND SOFTENING GEL SHAMPOO
MASCHERA ESSENZIALE MOISTURISING AND SOFTENING MASK
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AND
STYLE YOUR BEAUTY The first Icea Vegan- and Love Nature-certified professional hair styling line, And cares while it styles, allowing for endless creative results. Enriched with active ingredients that protect hair from external sensitising agents and cell ageing, with daily use And protects hair and preserves structure and health.
PRIMER
P rimer
05
S tyling
13
SEAL SERUM
HEAT SPRAY
STYLING 15
SMOOTH CREAM
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FULL FLUID
24
TONIC CREAM
41
SALTY MIST
53
STYLE FOAM
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FIN ISH ING g n i h is n i F
32 DRY VOL
40
DRY POWDER
55
HOLD SPRAY
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25
34
44
54
GLOSS POMADE
VAMP SPRAY
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MATTE PASTE
FLEX GEL
FIX GEL
06
SHINE SPRAY
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TRUE. VISIONARY. BEAUTY.
BE PART OF A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE WITH KEMON FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BECOME A STOCKIST, CONTACT THE SALON SUCCESS TEAM ON 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK/KEMON ALSO AVAILABLE IN SALON SERVICES STORES AND ONLINE AT SALON-SERVICES.COM
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
BE PART OF A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE WITH KEMON FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BECOME A STOCKIST, CONTACT THE SALON SUCCESS TEAM ON 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK/KEMON ALSO AVAILABLE IN SALON SERVICES STORES AND ONLINE AT SALON-SERVICES.COM
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MAKE IT
*When used with Fibre Clinix home care regime. **Wet combing test versus untreated hair.
al n o s per WHO WANTS TO BE LIKE EVERYONE ELSE ANYWAY? THE NEW FIBRE CLINIX RANGE FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ALLOWS YOU TO BUILD A FULLY CUSTOMISABLE ROUTINE FOR CLIENTS FOR A PERFECT FINISH, NO MATTER THE CONCERN
Demand for personalised services has grown exponentially, and the idea of ‘making do’ or ‘one size fits all’ feels a little redundant with all of the opportunities now available at clients’ fingertips. Which is exactly why professional advice and bespoke hair consultations are a crucial point of difference to offer clients with restless fingers hovering over ‘buy now’ buttons on their phones. Thankfully, Schwarzkopf Professional’s most advanced and powerful repair technology offers the ability to tailor haircare to address multiple issues. The breakthrough Fibre Clinix range takes a service-led approach to provide customisable treatments and transformative results from first use. Hair is both dry and damaged? No problem. Fine strands unable to cope with heavy formulas for the colour treatments it’s gone under? Don’t sweat. Ten years’ worth of hair bonding innovation and research has gone into the Triple Bonding Technology that is at the core of the Fibre Clinix range. Combined with C21 Technology, which works to repair the 21 lipid chains present in hair and bring the cuticle closer to natural perfection, the results are instantly noticeable. When used as a regime with the Tribond Shampoo and Treatments, the technology restores the inner and outer hair structure for up to 60 days,* with complete sealing of hair porosity.**
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*When used with Fibre Clinix home care regime. **Wet combing test versus untreated hair.
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
ONE IN A million
AS CONSUMERS LOOK FOR EXPERT ADVICE AND PERSONALISED SOLUTIONS, CUSTOMISABLE REGIMES THAT REFLECT INDIVIDUAL NEEDS ARE AN ABSOLUTE ESSENTIAL – AND IT STARTS FROM THE VERY FIRST PRODUCT. FIBRE CLINIX OFFERS CUSTOMISATION AT EVERY STAGE, ALLOWING YOU TO TAKE A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO THE HAIR’S NEEDS. BEGIN WITH A CUSTOMISED TRIBOND SERVICE TO TRANSFORM HAIR
CLEANSE
TREAT
Cleans and prepares the hair structure for a personalised Fibre Clinix treatment
Choose between treatments for either fine or coarse hair to improve strength and shine
ALL FOR
CUSTOMISE
Select from a range of Fibre Clinix Boosters to mix with the right Tribond Treatment for your client, to target specific hair concerns and repair both inner and outer hair damage further
me
TO REALLY SEE THE BENEFITS OF THE FIBRE CLINIX REPARATIVE TECHNOLOGY, SEND CLIENTS HOME WITH A BESPOKE ROUTINE FOR EFFORTLESS MAINTENANCE. EACH RANGE HAS BEEN DEVELOPED WITH SKINCARE-INSPIRED INGREDIENTS TO TAP INTO THAT TAILORED APOTHECARY MINDSET OF MIXING AND MATCHING TO SUIT EACH INDIVIDUAL
FIBRE CLINIX VIBRANCY
FIBRE CLINIX FORTIFY
FIBRE CLINIX HYDRATE
FIBRE CLINIX VOLUMIZE
FIBRE CLINIX TAME
Utilising alpha hydroxy acid to enhance colour vibrancy for lasting results
Strengthen and nourish the hair fibre with niacinamide
Deeply nourishing squalane complex balances moisture levels
Phytokine gives hair a lightweight feeling and fullness
Smoothing ceramides visibly tame hair for a smooth, anti-frizz effect
Each range features a Shampoo, Conditioner, Leave-In Conditioner, Treatment and Booster that can be mixed and matched to suit each and every hair complaint. Prescribe a totally customised product experience to target multiple hair needs with every use. PROMOTE INDIVIDUALITY FOR CLIENTS WITH THE NEW FIBRE CLINIX RANGE FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL. FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT SCHWARZKOPFPRO.COM @SCHWARZKOPFPROUK CREATIVE HEAD
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FASHION IS FOREVER
SEASON AFTER SEASON
ONCE YOU SEE SAM MCKNIGHT AND HIS TEAM WORK THEIR MAGIC BACKSTAGE, YOU UNDERSTAND EXACTLY WHY THEY’RE AT THE TOP OF THE FASHION WEEK GAME Sam McKnight is a giant of the session world. He and his team have created looks that have gone on to grace the covers of magazines across the world, and his cool, calm and collected demeanour backstage belies the technique and attention that go into every style. Sam and BaByliss PRO have enjoyed a close working relationship for years, with a shared laser-like focus on creating beautiful results and driving trends forward. He’s been around the block long enough to know what fantastic fashion requires – and you can bet that the sleek black tools from BaByliss PRO are a key factor in creating all manner of stunning styles. The rise of the supermodel in the ‘90s brought a lot of attention to Fashion Week shows. “Vivienne Westwood
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Ralph & Russo A/W20
Sam McKnight at Ralph & Russo A/W20
A LOT CAN CHANGE IN 20 YEARS, BUT LOVE OF THE TRENDLEADING SPECTACLE OF FASHION SHOWS CERTAINLY HASN’T. AND BACKSTAGE, NESTLED IN MANY A KIT, HAVE BEEN SOME UNBELIEVABLE BABYLISS PRO TOOLS, READY TO SHAPE FRESH TRENDS. LET’S TAKE A RETROSPECTIVE LOOK AT SENSATIONAL HAIR WITH SOME OF THE INDUSTRY’S BIGGEST NAMES…
shows in particular really stick in my memory. So many incredible looks with Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow, Linda Evangelista,” Sam says. But as fashion brands sought to change the game and raise the stakes ever higher, it’s the change of pace of more modern shows that stand out. Sam mentions Dries Van Noten with Christian Lacroix for S/S20, as well as the pastel-toned bobs weaving through the Palace of Versailles for Chanel Cruise Versailles 2013. Fendi Couture in Rome 2019, too, was a standout moment in his wide-ranging career. “It was outside, with a backdrop of the Colosseum at dusk. Fifty-four wigs, dyed to match their outfit inspired by the hues of Roman Marble – incredible.” The transience of the fashion show is what keeps drawing Sam back for more. It’s a defining moment of that time,” he explains. “The look of a certain show can send ripples through the next few seasons. It captures the progression within beauty, the evolution of a trend or evocative manner of season.”
CREATIVE HEAD
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“Hair and beauty continues to provide that aspirational escapism”
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Ralph & Russo A/W20
Ralph & Russo A/W20
With the future of fashion in the balance post Covid-19, Sam remains hopeful that fashion will continue to make its essential strides forward. “I hope it will continue to proceed in the most creative way. Without fear and by embracing the new guidelines, which are a step in the right direction for beauty teams backstage,” he explains. “I’m looking forward to being with friends and colleagues again – working alongside my team who have been with me for a long time.” One of those artists is Valerie Benavides, who has worked in Sam’s core team for more than 12 years. That camaraderie, that trust, paired with the creativity of being at the forefront of trend making is what captures her imagination season after season. “Some shows I love for the opportunity to travel, others for the prep and team camaraderie. Nothing brings you together or solidifies friendships quite like working until 2am, eating pizza and jelly sweets while making hair croissants or tweed ponytails,” she recalls. “Even packing the show kit of 16 enormous cases makes you see people for who they are and appreciate them immensely!”
“The look of a show can send ripples through the next few seasons” SAM MCKNIGHT
Valerie Benavides
VALERIE BENAVIDES
CREATIVE HEAD
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Syd Hayes was on the fast-track to fashion royalty before he even knew it, finding himself on Guido Palau’s team at the age of 21. He still gets shivers when he recalls working on Alexander McQueen’s last ever show. “It was the first of its kind. Streamed on the internet, which had never been done before, and filmed by these incredible cameras as models with the most amazing hair walked down the runway!” Creating a show-stopping look has become second nature, notably at Matty Bovan and House of Holland, which carried his punk-tinged brand of brilliance. Things have come a long way since that McQueen show, and not just in the size of spectacle. “Matty Bovan’s S/S20 show was a really big, exciting show for me,” he recalls. “We collaborated with colourist Josh Wood on these cool, extra-long dip-dyed pastel ponytails, where the BaByliss 9000 cordless straightener made its exclusive debut. It was like the future of haircare was in my hands.” We’re talking dip-dye like you’ve never seen it, with wall paint stretching up the sleekest power ponytails we’d ever seen. He continues: “The cordless 9000 made such a difference there – the first full-sized, battery powered hair straightener! It meant that models could still have their ponytails straightened in the line just before they went out on the catwalk, it’s so versatile. Pure performance and pure silky straight ponytails. Amazing.” In a fast-changing world like fashion, you have to be all-in to keep up, explains Ryan Wood, a key member of both Syd Hayes’
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Matty Bovan A/W20
THE SYD SQUAD LEAVES A TRAIL OF TRENDS IN THEIR FASHION WEEK WAKE. MAKING A SPLASH IS ALL IN A DAY’S WORK FOR SYD HAYES AND HIS TALENTED TEAM, WITH BABYLISS PRO’S VERSATILE AND EXPANSIVE COLLECTION ON HAND TO BREAK NEW GROUND
Matty Bovan A/W20
Syd Hayes at Matty Bovan A/W20
LAST YOUNG RENEGADES
“It was like the future of haircare was in my hands” SYD HAYES CREATIVE HEAD
18/08/2020 12:48
Paula with Sam Burnett
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Paula McCash at Matty Bovan A/W20
Matty Bovan A/W20
“It’s all worth it when you see the final results” PAULA MCCASH
“Fashion Week as we know it may change, but the industry is more robust than people think” RYAN WOOD Ryan Wood
Gareth Pugh S/S19
Matty Bovan S/S20
rather than an addition. “One show that really stands out to me was Gareth Pugh S/S19. All of the models were individual – some had wigs that were shaped into mohawks, others wore finger wave wigs with a plastic-looking lip that make-up legend Val Garland created. I loved the diversity of the show, proving fashion comes in all forms.” Session stylists are adrenaline junkies at heart. “I love the buzz that comes with Fashion Week. It’s a lot of hard work and late nights but it’s all worth it when you see the final results.” Swapping between tools and techniques, facing new challenges and changing things up from show to show, Paula can’t imagine the future of fashion not continuing on: “I do hope to get back to an audience and a live show. I’m quite old fashioned like that but we will have to see.”
and Sam McKnight’s teams. “Lots of elements of the industry have changed over the years, but shows make front page news and the top models are the references clients bring in to the salon,” he explains. “Social media allows clients to follow the shows and the models, and it’s the top models’ off-duty looks that inspire lots of people now... myself included!” His kit always has a stash of the BaByliss PRO tongs of various sizes: “They are designed for simplicity, and built to last. Tools can take quite a battering!” But when it comes to facing forward, he is resolute. “Fashion Week as we know it may change, but the industry is more robust than people think,” he says. Paula McCash, the Most Wanted Independent Stylist Award 2019 winner, has earned her place on Syd’s team for her quick-thinking and deft touches to leave hair as a fully realised character aspect,
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“I could go on for hours talking about shows that inspired me!” says Richard Phillipart, before referencing sculptural shows by Viktor & Rolf, art at Commes Des Garçons, and Alexander McQueen’s Horn of Plenty A/W09. “This McQueen show really did change how I looked at fashion and influenced me to bring an aspect of storytelling into my work that I have worked to develop all these years and is just now coming to fruition.” The distinction between salon and show hair all lies in the model, the character being brought to life by the clothes, the hair, the make-up. “I feel that Fashion Week hair has evolved to include characters more and more. What was once cookiecutter identical looks for every model is now about embracing a model’s personal style, natural hair, personality. This is what makes modern fashion hairdressing.” Since launching a Fashion Week team, Richard has gone from strength to strength, looking after increasingly bigger shows, and his ambition is not dimmed as he looks to grow internationally, with only the threat of Covid-19 dampening his dreams. “I think Fashion Week in the future will explore and embrace digital options… but I don’t see physical fashion shows disappearing,” he asserts. “I hope and wish they don’t.” As Richard’s first assistant, Lauren Bell has seen first-hand just how much thought and backstory goes into creating a
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Richard Malone A/W20
Richard Phillipart at Marques Almeida A/W20
INSPIRATION STRIKES ANEW
RICHARD PHILLIPART’S TEAM AT FASHION WEEK IS REACHING LEGENDARY STATUS, AND FOR RICHARD IT’S ALL ABOUT ASSEMBLING A CHARACTER, AN IDENTITY THAT’S METICULOUSLY CRAFTED. THE SUPPORT FROM BABYLISS PRO GIVES HIM THE FREEDOM TO MIX AND MATCH STYLES TO NAIL EACH LOOK
“McQueen influenced me to bring an aspect of storytelling into my work” RICHARD PHILLIPART CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:49
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Marques Almeida A/W20 CREATIVE HEAD
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Marques Almeida A/W20
“I’m yet to leave a show where I haven’t learnt a new technique or a better way of doing something”
Jack Irving at On|Off A/W18
LAUREN BELL
Richard Malone A/W20
A salon owner, the whirlwind of Fashion Week was like entering a parallel world for Bailey, but he always emerges with new skills and inspiration to return to the salon with. “Fashion Week is a funny place to begin,” he says. “The pressure and intensity of the work can either have you running back for more or running away! Working with Richard has developed my skills, taught me to use hair as a material, and to view product and tools in a such different way from conventional salon life.” When you’re pushed to the limit, Bailey’s glad to have the right tools to hand. “The new BaByliss 9000 cordless straightener is a game changer!” he says. “It is super-handy for line-ups at Fashion Week, you can tweak a look right before the model goes on the runway.”
Marques Almeida A/W20
Lauren Bell Richard Malone A/W20
Bailey Humphreys at Marques Almeida A/W20
look which comes to life. “Jack Irving at On|Off A/W18, was my absolute favourite show!” she says. “It was one of the first shows where I assisted Richard at Fashion Week – I’m still in love with that hair! We used wigs to make this futuristic beehive which had strong elements of nostalgia, futurism and just plain punk because of the texture and high-shine finish.” It’s safe to say there’s nothing quite like the buzz of Fashion Week – and Lauren wouldn’t have it any other way. “The fashion, the fast pace and final result – it’s the full experience!” she says. “I’m yet to leave a show where I haven’t learnt a new technique or a better way of doing something.” Part of that discovery has been experimenting with the wide array of BaByliss PRO tools. “The BaByliss PRO ItaliaBrava hairdryer is the best, it’s so lightweight and the boost/turbo button is insanely good! It’s just so quick to get strong, cold air for setting looks backstage.” That Jack Irving show made a big impression on Bailey Humphreys as well, another key member of Richard’s team.
“The pressure and intensity of the work can either have you running back for more or running away!” BAILEY HUMPHREYS 63
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CHARACTER DESIGN WORKING WITH A DESIGNER TO SHAPE THEIR VISIONS RATHER THAN YOUR OWN IS THE CRITICAL SKILL THAT SETS APART THE TOP STYLISTS WORKING IN FASHION NOW. SHIORI TAKAHASHI SPOKE TO US ABOUT HOW TO CREATE THAT SPACE TO RAISE THE BAR
Creative HEAD: How would you summarise the evolution of Fashion Week hair and the importance of those trendsetting looks or characters? Shiori Takahashi: The celebration of individual style. This feeling and movement is getting bigger and bigger. Everyone has different style, taste, lifestyle and, of course, hair! So, it’s great to see how it’s becoming more about identifying a character and championing individuality. CH: What’s the future of Fashion Week going to look like? ST: Technology is improving all the time and informing the runway looks. It’s exciting to see more collaborations with innovative technology taking place.
CH: What advice do you have for young stylists dreaming of working backstage? ST: Work hard at developing your craft and put yourself out there. You will meet and have the pleasure of working with the most amazing, talented people at every stage of your career. Don’t give in when times get tough! There will be many nights where you will still be up colouring hair at 3am for a 6am call time. But you will look back and be proud you stuck through it. Believe in yourself and work hard!
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Photography: Hugo Yangüela
CH: Where do you start when creating a look? Is it the clothes, the character? ST: Both are important starting points but the process feels more like storytelling. Collaboration is key, in what you’re drawing from the designer, photographers, stylists, art directors and so on. The vision or idea is where the magic happens; understanding the collection, discussing the characters we want to bring to life. This is when we figure out the world of these characters, and it unfolds from there.
CREATIVE HEAD
18/08/2020 12:50
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
THE POWER IS IN YOUR HANDS…
BABYLISS PRO TOOLS GRACE THE KITS OF SOME OF THE BEST HAIR ARTISTS IN THE WORLD, WHO KNOW THEY CAN RELY ON THEM WHEN TIME IS SHORT AND THE PRESSURES ARE HIGH. WHEN YOU HAVE FIVE MINUTES UNTIL CALL TIME, YOU NEED TOOLS THAT GET YOU THE PERFECT RESULTS FAST. HERE ARE THREE OF BABYLISS PRO’S BEST…
Gareth Pugh S/S19 Matty Bovan S/S20
GCDS S/S20
BABYLISS PRO TITANIUM EXPRESSION 25MM CURLING TONG
The BaByliss PRO tongs are some of Sam McKnight’s most used tools, the ones he reaches for to create curls with hold and movement that never look too ‘done’ or overly styled, which this mid-size tong excels at. With six sizes to choose from the range is super versatile for creating any look you can dream up, from tight corkscrew curls to barely-there waves. “I love all the sizes in this range. They are light and travel well,” Sam McKnight team member Valerie Benavides adds.
BABYLISS PRO ITALIABRAVA HAIRDRYER
The supercar of hairdryers. BaByliss PRO teamed up with Ferrari to design the revolutionary MaxLife PRO brushless engine, using four high-strength magnets to deliver intense power your styling that’s up to 20 per cent more efficient. It’s also 20 per cent lighter than standard hairdryers for a comfortable balance in the hand, as you wield 2,400w of power for up to 10,000 hours of guaranteed advanced professional performance.
BABYLISS 9000 CORDLESS STRAIGHTENER
The cordless – yes, truly cordless – straightener is an absolute game-changer backstage when you’re in cramped conditions or looking to finish up right before show-time with no power socket in sight. Ground-breaking Micro Heating Matrix technology is paired with a powerful lithium-ion battery that lasts for up to 30 minutes to deliver exceptional style wherever you need it. Curl or straighten effortlessly and quickly with the curved body design of the styler and choose from three temperature settings to perfect every look.
DISCOVER HOW BABYLISS PRO TOOLS CAN HELP TO SET YOU APART, BACKSTAGE OR IN THE SALON. VISIT BABYLISSPRO.CO.UK OR CALL 0370 513 3191 CREATIVE HEAD
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Ready, set, #CHTu rns20 shoot! @charlotteme nsah – ready to do her thing!
Vogue contributing editor @claudia.croft doing socially distanced #MW IT20 judgin g Always on! Special Projects’ Jenny and Joanna multi-tasking on the #CHTurns20 set
In the
F ilming with Louis Byrne @icania mandiwillbylou isbyrne and others for a new project with @baby lissprou k
frame
@sa mburnettha ir wigging out in a barn in Kent, between shot s for our Octo ber cove r
Remote farms, London studios, briefs, bookings and copious call sheets, the Creative HEAD Special Projects team (@creativeheadmag) spent the summer on set – here’s a snapshot!
Images shot before government Covid-19 PPE guidelines changed on 15/08/2020
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
Speake rs4Sch ools chose The Indust ry film star Mark Maciver @slidercuts to give a virtual career talk
What’s @charliecullen educat ion up to in a Soho recordin g studio? Hear more next month…
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All change! Salon Smart has gone digital – tune in on 27 Septem ber – tickets in store now!
@paulpercivalh air’s pet pooch, Obi, perform ing for the ca mera with hu man sister Maya #CHTu rns20 shoot
Owner of Rielly Denho lm, @josh-denhol m, workin g it for an upcom ng tutoria l CREATIVE HEAD
20/08/2020 15:50
Ultra light. Ultra quiet. Incredibly powerful. Let your creativity fly.
www.divapro.co.uk
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19/08/2020 16:40
BACK TO COOL
COOL COLOUR TAILOR-MADE TO YOUR HAIR STORY
30015 Back to Cool sp CH.indd 1
The rights to use this visual are acquired from July 15th, 2020 to January 15th, 2022. Beyond that date the use of this visual shall be considered as a breach and you will have to pay any compensation that would be seek by the model or the photographer.
AU REVOIR UNWANTED RED, ORANGE & YELLOW TONES
10/08/2020 5:59 pm