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real partnership is more than just products. So, let Goldwell start a new conversation – a conversation about you – with the goal of creating a true partnership.
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LET’S TALK Goldwell cover section 3
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ou need a brand that thinks like you. One that embraces your passion for beautiful hair, for pushing the creative boundaries and achieving success in the salon. Goldwell does this and more.
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embrace your passion Goldwell cover section 5
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t’s way beyond products. It’s about services that you and your clients can truly rely upon to perform and deliver.
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Discover what’s different Goldwell cover section 7
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e know education is the most important thing you can do for your career and for your clients. It’s an exchange among creative minds. Inspiration, passion – get ready to share…
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Live out your talent Goldwell cover section 9
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oldwell embraces your passion for hair and believes together we can reach new heights of creativity and salon success. Goldwell does more than understand you, it thinks like you.
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oldwell embraces your passion for hair and believes together you can reach new heights of creativity and salon success. Goldwell does more than understand you, it thinks like you.
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be part of it
You want a partner who’s one of you, right? Someone who listens, who understands, who gets it. Goldwell hears you. It embraces your passion for beautiful hair and believes that together stylists can achieve outstanding client satisfaction and success. Goldwell is a brand that listens, steered by a talented team of stylists, and it’s making a pledge – now, more than ever, everything it does will be dedicated to you and your success. Goldwell is your stylistexclusive, full-service salon provider. Tailored education. Inspiring events. Bespoke business support. exciting new services.
It’s time to discover what’s different…
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Show your steel
Most colour brands will tell you to cover, to hide any and all signs of grey. Goldwell thinks differently. It knows grey is diverse, and so are your clients. That’s why it’s unveiling the revolutionary Grey Service Collection; to help you make the most out of grey. From natural shades to vibrant fashion tones and with finishes that will appeal to male clients, too, you can turn grey into gorgeous…
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Grey Beautifying Service to enhance and contour the natural beauty of grey hair
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Put the vibrancy back into her hair colour with Goldwell’s Fashion Red service
The Grey Camouflage service – hide partial grey areas with this natural grey service
be bold
Grey clients often see colour as a chore, even a duty, so help them find the fun side with a portfolio of options available in the Grey Service Collection. Yes, some will want to cover up; but some will want to shout with spectacular shades. As the main reason why women colour their hair, clients going grey could be huge for your salon. Show them they have choices, show them it’s fun, show them you’re the expert.
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Grey Beautifying Service – to enhance and contour the natural beauty of grey hair
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Choose a partner that’s just like you
Goldwell thinks stylist. To find out more, speak to your Goldwell consultant, call 01323 432100 or visit goldwell.com
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Stars of 2014 You are amazing! creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted creativeheadmag.com/theitlist
head online now for a full list of winners
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Editor’s letter
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hello...
JOIN US!
WHENEVER I’M AT hairdressing events, I hear first-hand the everyday trials and tribulations of running a salon. From regional spaces to super-salons, everyone is spinning a dozen plates, doing everything they can to ensure a healthy and happy salon for clients and staff. That’s why we’re concentrating our focus on the business of hair, identifying how to grow income, head off HR headaches and balance responsibilities. This month discover the growth opportunities that await your salon by specialising in areas such as extensions and thinning hair. A boosted bottom line and delighted clients await. Of course, there’s a cadre of businesses and individuals that delight and excite that we celebrate every year. A hearty congratulations to all our Most Wanted and It List winners, revealed at an awesome night at Tate Modern – an appropriate venue for such a glittering celebration of talent. Check out our October issue for all the fun. Perhaps you’ll be inspired to enter in 2015…
Amanda Nottage Editor
Most Wanted and The It List stars of 2014, stand up! You are amazing, extraordinary and second to none, and we salute each and every one of you. For all the news from the night, head to creativeheadmag.com. But it doesn’t stop there – fashion fans of the north, it’s your last chance to book tickets for the Leeds Coterie pop-up on 22 September, where WAH Nails’ founder Sharmadean Reid, session stylist George Northwood and Vogue’s Jessica Diner will be talking. What a line-up! Turn to page 35 for more details.
Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year
amanda@headmag.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine 10
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TRENDVISION AWARD UK & IRELAND FINAL MONDAY 6 OCTOBER JOIN US AT THE TRENDVISION AWARD UK AND IRELAND FINAL FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE EVENING AT THE LEGENDARY ROUNDHOUSE, LONDON. Featuring: • Spectacular shows from industry icons including: Sebastian Professional Creative Style Artists | Cult Team | Colour Club | TONI&GUY • Champagne reception & sumptuous 3-course dinner • Fabulous entertainment & glamorous after-show party • Competitor catwalk & the all-important awards ceremony • Hosted by renowned radio and TV presenter Jo Whiley!
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DON’T MISS OUT ON WHAT IS GOING TO BE A TRULY MEMORABLE EVENING. TICKETS: £195 inc vat per person To book online and find out more visit: https://www.eventsforce.net/tva2014ukandireland Speak to your Wella Professionals Account Manager or contact the Events Team on 0845 6018 128 / wellaevents.im@pg.com For the latest TrendVision Award news become a fan of ‘Wella UK’ on facebook. @wellapro #tva www.wellatrendvision.com
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September
WHAT’S INSIDE 74
£4.50 SEPTEMBER 2014
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A PIECE OF THE ACTION
Prep for party season with hair pieces to style and sell
CHANGE IS GOOD ON THE COVER Hair by Goldwell
96 GLITTER AND GOLD
40
SCENE
Paul Mitchell takes over Las Vegas, TIGI celebrates and Angelo wows at the Coterie
We talk to celebrity BFFs Royston Blythe and Nick Malenko about keeping your feet on the ground
EDITOR AMANDA NOTTAGE
CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE DAVID HAMMOND
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ONLINE EDITOR AMY WOOD
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503828 BB&B 4 CH FP_Layout 1 13/08/2014 09:19 Page 1
previously...
The Lad and the Drama Queen were locked in an embrace unaware that the Villain was watching...
THE
THE
AND THE AND
extreme situation… but not a hair out of place!
featuring
e Glue Extrem
where there’s drama there’s
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
WHAT DO YOU THINK? Is hair a good business for young entrepreneurs? Tweet us @creativeheadmag
HATTIE STOKES’ press mentor is Creative HEAD editor, Amanda Nottage. Follow Hattie at creativeheadmag.com
Hattie Stokes
Matthew Gavin
THE NUMBER OF BUSINESS owners in the beauty industry aged under 25 is double the average of other industries, according to data from Barclays Business. Some six per cent of small to medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the hair and beauty sector are owned by young entrepreneurs, compared with just three per cent for other UK businesses. Sue Hayes, head of SME banking at Barclays Business, said: “We’ve seen a jump in the number of younger entrepreneurs in this sector which has been helped by a boom in online consumer behaviour.” The 2013 It List Entrepreneur, Katya Davies, who set up the Myla & Davis salon when she was 19 years old, believes the jump is due to the industry being an accessible business, “in terms of getting experience at a young age as a Saturday assistant or straight from school, and you can set up successfully with less capital than other industries”. When it comes to setting up your own business, Katya advised: “Most of the task is in the preparation: a strong business plan, including a cash flow forecast will mean you avoid nasty surprises. I cannot make a stronger recommendation than to get a good accountant on board from the very beginning. This will make discussions with the bank much easier.”
Erika Jackson
YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS FLOCK TO BEAUTY INDUSTRY
Matrix Destination Fame 2014/15 winners revealed! THE NEWEST MEMBERS of the Matrix Destination Fame team and their mentors have been revealed. They are: Erika Jackson from H2O, who will be mentored by Paul Falltrick; Hattie Stokes from Christian Wiles Hairdressing, who’ll be mentored by Hooker & Young; and Matthew Gavin from Theo Georgio, who will be mentored by Jamie Stevens. “It’s been a few years since I was last involved in judging Matrix Destination Fame and in that time you can see that the competitors have really embraced the ‘no rules’ creativity,” said Paul Falltrick, Matrix Destination Fame artistic mentor. “I was looking for more than skill. I wanted to see potential, someone that could progress and grow. Finally, I wanted to get a sense of depth in the presentation element of the day to demonstrate that the competitor had really thought about and rehearsed what their look was all about.” SEE IT Watch the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final fashion films exclusively on creativeheadmag.com
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Guy Kremer celebrates 40 years in hairdressing From left: Tai Stanley, Guy Kremer and Jonny Engstrom
ve got y!
AN NI VE RS AR Y
IT WAS A DAY and a night to remember as Guy Kremer pulled out all the stops to celebrate his 40th year in the hairdressing industry. Held at The Greyhound on the Test hotel and restaurant in Stockbridge, Hampshire, the day was split into two parts with about 40 of Guy’s closest friends attending a lunch, with a further 60 joining the evening celebrations. Ann Herman, Trevor Sorbie, designer Maria Grachvogel and Guy’s artistic director Jonny Engstrom were all in attendance, with Trevor describing Guy’s work as “flawless”. The intimate lunch made way for an evening of more food and revellers made it an unforgettable evening.
LONDON PICKS UP FSB AWARD EDWARD JAMES LONDON has won in the Service Excellence and the Overall County Winner categories at the Federation of Small Businesses Business Awards 2014. Natalie Love, general manager at Edward James London, said: “We’re over the moon that our team has been recognised for everything it does for our guests, fellow team members and the business as a whole.” The FSB is the UK’s largest campaigning pressure group for promoting and protecting the interests of the self-employed and owners of small firms.
To-do list Your planner for the month ahead…
12-16 September
Catch the fash pack One of the ‘big four’ fashion weeks, London Fashion Week gets stronger every year. We’ll be keeping our eyes peeled for the latest hair trends hitting the runway, getting inspiration from all the fabulous clothes collections and checking out who’s wearing what on the front row, of course!
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The main event The Toni&Guy Mainstage event is always an amazing evening and this year promises to be no different. Taking place at the Queen Elizabeth II Olympic Park in London, singer Ella Eyre is headlining and more musical acts will be announced.
21 September
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ALAN HOWARD OPENS STOCKPORT SUPERSTORE Wholesaler Alan Howard has opened a 16,000 sq ft superstore in Stockport. The two-floor site includes two training academies and a state-of-the-art auditorium.
CH EDITOR SCOOPS PRIZE Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage has scooped the Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year title at this year’s Fashion and Beauty Monitor Journalism Awards. Established to recognise excellence in fashion and beauty journalism, the awards received more than 1,500 nominations. A panel of judges from PR, media and creative industries determined the winners. Keysha Davis, editor of Blackhair and an awards judge, said: “[Amanda’s work] was the kind of thing you would normally expect from a fashion glossy, so it immediately stood out to us.”
❤ W E L OV E
September
A fashionable road trip The Coterie is once again on the move, going to Leeds’ White Cloth Gallery. Sharmadean Reid, George Northwood and Vogue’s Jessica Diner make the line-up. To join, call 01434 610933 or email info@the-coterie.net
A range just for women? Yes please! OSiS+ Glamination range is the first femaleonly styling range by Schwarzkopf Professional and is infused with liquid minerals for naturally effortless and beautifully understated waves.
CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit
£28,000
MY month AHEAD
The amount women spend on hair care during their lifetime. The study, by Promotionalcodes.org.uk, found that women spent an average of £460 a year on shampoo, conditioner and styling products to keep hair looking bouncy and healthy.
MEET THE 2014/15 GENERATION NOW TEAM
Lee Stafford
THE SIX HAIRSTYLISTS for the new Generation NOW team for 2014/15 have been revealed. They are, pictured inset, clockwise from left: Emma Wainwright, Soul Hair, Cheshire; Paul Paterson, Ishi Salon, Edinburgh; Callum Standen, The Egg, Norfolk; James Earnshaw, Francesco Group, Shropshire; Rob Czlapka, RCNQ, Manchester; and Matthew Feeney, Aviary Lane Salon, Dublin. The audition process saw all entrants submit an example of their work and a written entry, before moving on to a live audition stage. The new members’ year begins with a bootcamp week mentored by Bruno Marc from Marc Antoni, Robert Eaton from Russell Eaton, Jamilla Paul from Jamilla Paul Hair & Beauty, Steven Goldsworthy from Goldworthys and Gary Gill from Emotive Hair.
Salon Smart reveals star-studded line-up LEE STAFFORD IS among the first star names revealed for Salon Smart 2015. The celebrity stylist will be joined by marketing specialist Laura Caudery and styling duo Hooker & Young. Caudery, currently director of Fetcham Park wedding venue, has a background in marketing for Burberry and Alfred Dunhill and knows a thing or two about engaging with clients on social media. Hooker & Young are back by popular demand, showcasing their artistry in a main stage show. Salon Smart, Creative HEAD’s annual business networking event, takes place 26 to 27 April 2015. For tickets, call 01434 610944
Wella has launched a new Instagram campaign to celebrate the launch of its INSTAMAT!C colour service – you can upload your INSTAMAT!C looks using #colourflash
STYLE COUNCIL Paul Percival and Adam Reed have launched the Creative Council to showcase the creative and technical best of their Percy & Reed salons. The Council consists of Adam, Andrew John, Romin Sartipi, Ashley Beecroft, Olivia Bucknell, Lucy Welling and Ky Wilson.
What September has in store for…
DANIEL JORDAN DANIEL JORDAN
Kicking off this month is the Most Wanted 2014 awards, which is something I definitely won’t miss. I’m also working on education projects with Unite, while attending to clients at the salon in Sevenoaks. My team and I will also be attending the Sevenoaks Business Awards later this month as we’re nominated for Best New Business and Customer Choice Awards.
JOEL THOMPSON EMBASSY HAIR
We’re starting some amazing new ventures for the Embassy brand. One is the launch of our new men’s salon Embassy Homme and the work going into it is both challenging and exciting! We’re also about to spread our university campus salons further, with salons at three more campuses in North Staffordshire.
MATTHEW CURTIS
MATTHEW CURTIS HAIR DESIGN
September means one thing for us and that’s New York Fashion Week! It’s been pretty intense for my creative team and I in the run-up; we’re fanatically researching trends and preparing looks. Last season I led 12 shows and it’s looking like I’ll be doing about the same this time, if not more!
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The BUSINESS EDIT Can a chair rental model save salons VAT?
The two main areas of VAT regulation that impact on hairdressers are the treatment of chair rental charges and whether self-employed stylists are truly independent from the salon. Sally Atkins, team leader of the VAT Advice and Consultancy at CCH Fee Protection, points out that salons that use the services of self-employed stylists have two ways in which to deal with their services. Either the hairdressing salon engages its stylists as self-employed contractors under contract for services or, as self-employed stylists who supply hairdressing services direct to their own customers and the salon then charges for use of the facilities. With the first route, stylists are treated as supplying their services to the salon and the salon then makes an onward supply of hairdressing services to its customers. Where the stylists are self-employed contractors, the salon must account for output VAT on gross takings. Monies paid by the salon to the stylist are payment for a supply of sub-contract hairdressing services and VAT should be accounted on this by the stylist if they are VAT registered or registrable. However, if the stylists supply their services direct to their own customers, output VAT is only due on their individual gross takings if their level exceeds the
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FOR MANY SALON OWNERS, EMPLOYING PEOPLE IS THEIR BIGGEST HEADACHE AND, IN A TOUGH ECONOMIC CLIMATE, THE TEMPTATION TO HOUSE SELF-EMPLOYED STYLISTS TO CUT THE VAT BILL IS ATTRACTIVE... registration threshold (which is £81,000) and this is not treated as salon turnover. But chair rental payments made by the stylists to the salon are payment for the use of facilities and VAT is due on this. The VAT treatment of the chair rental charge has been a source of confusion, with many a salon falling foul of the rules. “Chair renting is not just about the chair in front of the mirror, as a renter will need to make use of a salon’s amenities,” explains Sally Atkins. “Therefore, the charge they pay to the salon includes a range of other services, such as the use of washbasins, the services of a junior, reception, storeroom, booking/payment facilities and so on.” HMRC policy, backed up by VAT tribunals, is that the supply of facilities to a hairdresser is standard-rated for VAT purposes. So, if you do go down the chair rental route and you’re a VAT registered salon, you should charge VAT on chair rentals. If you’re an unregistered salon, you should include chair rentals in the total value of taxable sales to see if you exceed the VAT registration limit. If in doubt, seek advice – it’s a rocky road, and you don’t want to be caught out and handed a huge VAT bill! The National Hairdressers Federation provides members
CREATIVE HEAD
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with access to free employment law advice through a helpline that’s available 24/7, and also provides access to essentials such as employment contracts and chair renting agreements. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, adds: “There are also several different versions of rental agreements depending on how your salon operates, so you do need to take expert advice.” However, while saving some cash has its pull, as a salon owner you may not want to walk away from being an employer so fast, chair rental arrangements can sometimes go wrong. Steve Rowbottom, director at Westrow in Yorkshire, has witnessed this at other businesses. He says: “When the economy is poor, the depletion of a large wages bill at the end of the month seems ideal, so some employers encourage staff to become self-employed, and then change their minds. Self-employed staff realise you are relying on them to pay your rent every month, which can lead to salon owners becoming very vulnerable.” HOB Salons general manager, Sean Dawson, is succinct in his view: “Chair rental salons are taking clients that are technically yours and giving them to someone else, which as a working business model is crazy,” he explains.
FROM INSIDE
THE SALON CAROLINE SANDERSON EGO HAIR DESIGN
I have been a chair renter and I have owned a chair rental salon. I mixed both chair rental and employed, and I now employ 100 per cent of my stylists. One or the other can work well depending on what you want for your business, so my advice would be to ask yourself three questions:
What kind of salon do you want to own? If you want to build a salon brand recognised within the industry, you can’t rent chairs. As soon as you rent to individuals who run their own businesses you no longer control your brand.
How much money do you want to make? Do you want your salon business to make you rich or would you like a steady income stream of say, £30,000 a year? Renting chairs is not going to make you rich but it can provide a steady income stream.
What lifestyle do you want to have? Building an employment business is not for the faint-hearted – managing accounts, employees, taxes and keeping up to date with changing laws is hard work. However, the rewards can be significant. When you have the answer to these questions, you will know what you need to do!
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#BusinessEdit
Apprentice minimum wage to be ‘simplified’
National minimum wage rates from 1 October 2014: Age Wage Increase Adults £6.50 up 19p 18-20 £5.13 up 10p Under 18 £3.79 up 7p Apprentices £2.73 up 5p
Small firms need to work together The high street may be competitive, but small businesses that learn to collaborate will often enjoy a significant sales boost, according to a study commissioned by American Express. Research for the credit company by retail consultancy Conlumnio estimated that working together on activities such as joint marketing campaigns, loyalty schemes, local events and promotions can help small retailers boost sales by an average of up to £30,000 a year.
le nt
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Apprenticeships: the new funding deal
a
The Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS) has asked the Low Pay Commission to focus on how the apprentices’ national minimum wage can be simplified. The structure of the apprentices’ wage is something NHF members have long complained about, arguing the fact it can only be paid to those under the age of 19 or in their first year of a training contract deters salons from taking on older apprentices. However, the chances of the wage being extended to cover the full two years appear slim. The government and the commission have both indicated they expect minimum wage rates generally to rise sharply in future, and the BIS said any streamlining of the apprentices’ wage should be done in the context of ensuring “apprentices get the minimum wage they are entitled to”. The commission has also been asked to examine the impact of faster increases in the wage. Against a backdrop of much tougher fines and enforcement, salons are being reminded minimum wage rates go up from next month.
ESHIPS NTIC RE P P
Th e
w ro cost of tomor
’s
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The government has published its outline funding model for new apprenticeships starting from 31 July 2015. Here’s what we know so far: The government has pledged to invest £2 from the public purse for every £1 contributed by the employer. There will be considerable amounts of cash for training, such as incentives for taking on younger apprentices and extra payments for small businesses. Although the fine detail on this is not yet clear, small employers may not in fact end up out of pocket. Funding will be based on five bands – what we don’t know yet is which band hairdressing, barbering and beauty will be in. Using its funding band two as a guide, a salon would be expected to pay £1,500. However, it would get £3,000 of government funding, potentially a £900 incentive if the apprentice was aged 16-18, a further £500 if it is a small business and a £500 bonus for when the apprentice completes the training. That would mean, the salon would get back £400 more than it paid out. The other uncertainty is with salons being given control of training funding they will have to manage and administer money, including negotiations with training providers over contracts. The NHF is arguing this could put an unwelcome burden on salons, especially smaller ones. It would like to see salons able to manage money if they so wish, but with the flexibility to allow the funds to be held and managed by the training provider if that is preferred.
NHF and IOSH unveil Salon safety guides
Health and safety guides for salons and barbershops have been released by occupational safety body the Institution of Occupational Safety and Health (IOSH), and the NHF. The guides give straightforward information and practical tips for business owners to help them manage health and safety in the workplace. Specific advice for key safety concerns includes the correct use, storage and disposal of tools, equipment and chemicals. It also covers skin problems due to constant contact with chemicals, the most common of these being dermatitis. Pani Lazarou, owner of Bentley & Co barbershop in Cardiff, said of the barbershop guide: “The NHF’s barber group wanted a simple health and safety guide for owners as the risks are different compared with hairdressing salons. The guide includes advice about hot towel shaves, using and disposing of razor blades, dealing with cuts and contamination risks.” The guides can be downloaded at nhf.info/hsguide
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831695 or visit nhf.info 20
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Creative head
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#BusinessEdit
DON’T BE NORMAL LIFE LESSONS – BE UNIQUE COCKTAILS, CAPPUCCINOS… WHAT REALLY SETS YOU APART FROM YOUR COMPETITORS?
KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5
TREVOR SORBIE, MBE ONE OF THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES any business can have is how to stand out from the crowd. In days gone by it was possible to be a good stylist and clients would come to you purely because of your hairdressing skills. Fortunately (or unfortunately), this is no longer the case. Clients have lots of choice. Most towns have too many salons and most salons offer good hairdressing, so a client never enters a salon expecting a bad haircut. So, if a good haircut is an expectation of every client, how can you ensure your salon becomes their first choice? Most people have heard of USPs – Unique Selling Points or Unique Service Propositions – that make you different from your competitors, something that you do or offer that a client can only get in your salon. Working with many salons throughout the country, this is a feature of their businesses that we often focus on but is actually an area in which it is becoming harder to truly succeed. Twenty years ago if you offered tea, coffee and mineral water you were seen as upmarket, especially if they were served
beautifully on a tray with a quality snack. Today you virtually have to be a barista; offering every kind of coffee, tea, an array of flavoured waters and possibly even a cocktail waiter to even be in with a chance of meeting a client’s expectations, let alone exceeding them. So, what now? Sit down with your team members and ask them what they think the USPs of your salon are. Listen carefully and try hard not to lead their thinking. Once you have compiled your list, be brutally honest and sift out the ones that you know can be found in other salons. If you end up with two or three absolutely unique elements then you are probably doing better than most. Remember – be brutally honest. Next, get working on some ‘blue sky’ group thinking. What ideas can your team come up with that will set you apart from your competition? Listen to everybody and consider everything. Take all of the ideas, select one or two and try and let the team run with them. Sixty years ago nobody did blow-drys or served cappuccinos. Now we have blow out bars with resident baristas. Someone has to be first!
TREVOR SORBIE SALONS
Nurture young talent. I always say ‘the boy of today is the man of tomorrow’, so passing on skills to younger team members is an essential investment. I see myself as a football manager now, managing my artistic team and enjoying bringing up the new blood in the company.
Don’t run before you can walk. The speed of life today is faster than when I started and everyone wants fame tomorrow. Forget trying to be famous, concentrate on the work.
I love the Charlie Chaplin quote: “Doing what I do is easy, thinking of what I do is difficult.” When people look at what I’ve done in the past, the easiest part was the execution of it, the hardest was thinking of the idea. Over the years people have said “you’re creative” – I actually work very hard at trying to be creative.
Know what’s important.
Want to ask Ken a question? Tweet us @creativeheadmag or visit 365hair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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I work with a lot of cancer patients – it’s clear that if you have health and happiness, you know the meaning of life.
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#BusinessEdit
BUSINESS
barometer
DON’T LET HOLIDAYS BREAK YOUR BUSINESS SUMMER FOR SOME SALONS can be a tricky time with both clients and employees taking time off. Staff holidays were one of the main reasons given by our panel for the decline in business in June compared with May. We know that employees are going to want their summer breaks, but what’s the best way to handle the holiday headache? “Hairdressing has a natural business cycle. The reality is you are never going to have 12 months of consistent trading,” admits business coach Antony Whitaker. “Comparing business in previous years helps anticipate how many stylists you will need on the floor, but it must be done before allocating holidays, so you have enough staff to match projected demand.” Then there are your clients. Limit the seasonal lull by intensifying your focus on rebooking before they leave the salon. Antony adds: “Rebooking becomes crucial around the holidays, so an ‘insider tip’ from stylist to client about the need to rebook early to ensure a convenient appointment will go a long way.”
CLIENTS AVERAGE VISIT EVERY CLIENT SPEND IS SEVEN WEEKS, THREE DAYS
£40.67
31% OF SALONS
HAVE SEEN AN INCREASE IN RETAIL SALES
BOAST E IS 51 PER CENT, BUT A FEW SALONS THE AVERAGE CLIENT REBOOKING RAT HOUT MAKING THEIR NEXT APPOINTMENT THAT NO CLIENT LEAVES THE SALON WIT
JUNE 2014
HOW WAS IT FOR YOU? How was business in June compared with May?
How was business this June compared with June 2013? DECLINING:
DECLINING:
42%
GROWING
31%
STEADY:
32%
STEADY:
27%
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12%
GROWING:
56%
Top tips HOW DO YOU TALK TO YOUR CLIENTS? I OFTEN GET TO provide business coaching to the salons I look after and during the course of these sessions, I am asked whether they should be sending their marketing by email or text message (SMS)? The truth is that while an email can communicate a more detailed message, a text message is more likely to reach your client quickly. Let’s have a look at some surprising statistics: 90 per cent of all emails are spam, but just one per cent of SMS are. Only 22 per cent of emails are actually opened, compared with 98 per cent of SMS. The average person receives about 1,200 emails each month, compared with 178 SMS. Text messages make marketing sense. The fact is that when email inboxes are left untouched during weekends and holidays, the mobile phone is still there. Not all our clients have (or want) access to emails from a mobile but we often use our phone as a calendar or clock so it stands to reason that it’s never far from reach. This does not mean that email marketing is ineffective, far from it. For your salon newsletters and other longer client communications, it represents a quick and cost-effective option. But for almost guaranteed reach, group SMS campaigns take some beating. So, if you want to make sure people see something and actually respond – send a text! Jessika Carrera Maybury, Head of Premier Salon
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE
CREATIVE HEAD
18/8/14 14:51:55
CROSSING CRAFT Twist and define your style with touchable, matte hold. Created with Craft Clay
sebastianprofessional.com
Ask your Wella Account Manager or visit sebastianprofessional.com for more information. TO FIND YOUR NEAREST SEBASTIAN SALON VISIT: sebastianprofessional.com/en-EN/salon-locator
WHAT’S NEXT.
Inside story RYS, Chelsea
Chelsea is famous for its garden show, so it seems appropriate that a styling garden was a fundamental part of new salon RYS. Creating a Zen-like experience of tranquility and comfort is what the salon brand stands for, and this is a great way to achieve it in an original way. Inside, the open-plan salon on the ground floor comprises nine hair stations, a coffee and juice bar, a capsule collection of accessory labels and beauty brands for retail; while you’ll find luxury and express beauty services upstairs. Directors Reshma Shah and Yilmaz Sahin worked with YY Design on the salon and RM Landscape Design for the bespoke water feature and planting beds. The bar concept, by outdoor furniture specialists MYYOUR and made in Italy, ties in with the Italian crafted salon furniture inside from Maletti.
Hot buys
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On the edge
Light up your life with the Cliff barber work unit with LED lighting, available with or without basin from Salon Ambience. RRP from £523.60 – a 60 per cent discount until the end of the year kris.dade@salonambience.com salonambience.com
To see more great deals from Salon Ambience, check out the new brochure, free with this issue!
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Trevor Sorbie Salons Richmond-upon-Thames Celebrating his 50th anniversary in the business, Mr Sorbie unveils his latest salon, in leafy Surrey.
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Shop THE LATEST PRODUCTS, COLOURS AND SERVICES
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CREATIVE HEAD
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CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit
Close-up
Giles A/W14
Electric blue, juicy orange… the neon undercurrent of Giles’s A/W14 collection was the perfect edge to complement his thorn and kingfisher motifs. But what got our attention (apart from Cara and Kendall on the catwalk, obviously) was the hair. Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, heading up the Toni&Guy Session Team backstage, cited ‘motorcycle helmet hair’ as the inspiration. It was as if Giles’s girls had just straddled a Triumph into the Truman Brewery, swung their long-limbs over to dismount, pulled off the helmet and walked straight onto the runway, mirrors be damned! It’s a bit antihair, it’s a bit anarchic – and it’s very Giles. We’re not going to argue with genius… Want to see more backstage at Giles with Toni&Guy? Download Runway A/W14 on the Creative HEAD App from your app store, now
Creative Head
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#CHedit Enjoying the company of the Mr World contestants!
Papped with form er 2012 Miss World Y u Wen xia
Styling some of the Hollyoaks cast
Past tim es! Doi ng a pres ent atio n for my old college
In the frame Andrew Minarik lets us in on his world as UK education artist for Sexy Hair UK and head of Hair, Make-up and Wardrobe for Miss World
Ha ppy Birthd ay! My mu m turn s 70
SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadmag
Back to bootca mp with the Miss England tea m
Hard at work in the salon in Kibworth
RISING STAR
Ready fo r th e Roya l En clo su re at As cot
Ba ckstag e, sty ling We st En d sin ger Liz Ro bertso n
Shooting step- by-steps for Sexy Hair
To discover what else Andrew has been up to, visit creativeheadmag.com
Why did you want to be a hairdresser? To be honest, it was something I accidentally fell into; I really wanted to be a rock star! But as soon as I started cutting hair I knew it was the career for me.
What have been your highlights so far? Being made art director at Zullo & Holland, becoming part of the Wella Generation NOW Team and being shortlisted for the It List It Guy 2014 Award.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years? I want to continue to deliver education and inspire other hairdressers. I would also love to be considered for Creative Talent or Hair Icon at the Most Wanted Awards.
What would be your dream hairdressing gig? To be the lead hairstylist for a huge show like the Victoria’s Secret campaign – for the hair, obviously! Travelling the world as a stylist would be a dream come true.
NAME: SIMON TUCKWELL AGE: 26 SALON: ZULLO & HOLLAND
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ghd styling expe rts Meet the legendary ghd creative team; a talented line-up of artists who are rewriting the rules and changing the way we style hair. ghd brand ambassadors | ghd art team | ghd creative education team | ghd style squad With an eye for all things beautiful and a passion to bring new techniques to life with ghd’s growing range of professional styling tools, the team are at the forefront of everything we do. From new product development to leading our education offering, each member shares their expertise through an exciting seminar programme. Want to know their secrets? Visit ghdhair.com/seminars to find out how you can start to grow your skills, in salon services or to take your career in a new creative direction. Alternatively call 0845 3301133 to find out more.
ghdprofessional
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07/08/2014 11:24
THE BUZZ S c h w a r z k o p f P r o f ess i o n a l l a u n c hes a n e w c o l o u r se r v i c e f o r m a tu r e h a i r a n d w e l o o k i n t o h o w y o u c a n m a x i m i se o n the b o o m i n g m a l e m a r k et
Schwarzkopf unveils c o l o u r r e v o l ut i o n Schwarzkopf Professional has launched Igora Royal Absolutes, the brand’s first professional colour with siliamine and collagen for mature hair. Between 1950 and 2000, the 60 plus age group grew from 200 million to 600 million – and by 2050 it’s predicted to reach two billion.* What’s more, today’s older generation have more self-confidence and choice than ever before. They demand quality from their products and services, and are willing to pay more for those that deliver the tailored experiences they expect. Igora Royal Absolutes will help you capture this generation’s attention, creating a whole new revenue stream as well as grow your colour business. Igora Royal Absolutes features 20 vibrant shades for a youthful, radiant look, while Igora Royal Absolutes Age Blend features 10 shades that are designed to perfectly complement mature skin tones for natural, flattering results. Both lines guarantee 100 per cent white hair coverage, while the Pro-Age Complex with siliamine and collagen provides extra care for mature hair. *Population Division, DESA, United Nations
O n the ground… Wh a t st y l i sts h a v e t o s a y a b o ut the n e w IGORA r o y a l a bs o l utes …
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““A colour that strengthens ageing hair is a winner. It offers amazing coverage and a lot of happy clients will benefit from the collagen, which helps plump up their hair” Tai Walker, Schwarzkopf P r o f ess i o n a l U K c o l o u r a m b a ss a d o r
“Now we can offer mature clients beautifully natural hair tones with the promise of better condition, too” Les l e y J e n n i s o n , S c h w a r z k o p f P r o f ess i o n a l g l o b a l c o l o u r a m b a ss a d o r
Creative Head
18/8/14 15:00:03
L E A P T ea m s t y le s g r a d u ate show A f te r s t y l i n g t h e s ta r s f o r a Fe n d i s t o r e la u n c h , t h e L E A P T ea m ’ s late s t a d v e n t u r e s a w f o u r m e m b e r s s t y le t h e hair for M i d d le s e x University’s BA Fa s h i o n De s i g n a n d Fa s h i o n T e x t i le s g r a d u ate s h o w . The brief for the f e m ale m o d el s w a s K ate M o s s c i r c a 1997, with the 12 girls sporting a n at u r al w et l o o k a n d d eep s i d e - pa r t i n g – OS i S + Se s s i o n L a b el S i lk S h i n e C r ea m w a s t h e h e r o p r o d u c t. The brief for t h e f i v e m ale m o d el s w a s ‘ s t r eet ’ , s o t h e L E A P m e m b e r s c r eate d s leek , g elle d l o o k s using products from the Schwarzkopf P r o f e s s i o n al [ 3 D ] Me n r a n g e .
T o p r epa r e f o r the show, the m e m b e r s s pe n t an a f te r n o o n with session stylist T y le r Johnston, who went over the brief from the university with them. “ Ha v i n g t i m e w i t h T y le r t o p r epa r e b e f o r e h a n d m ea n t w e k n e w e x a c tl y w h at w e would be doing and which products we’d use for the l o o k s , ” e x pla i n e d L E A P tea m m e m b e r C h r i s T r a n te r , f r o m Cross and Co in Bradford. “I r eall y l o v e d d o i n g t h e s h o w a n d w o r k i n g at a f a s t pa c e t o g et t h e m o d el s r ea d y o n t i m e . See i n g t h e m a b o u t t o g o o n t o t h e c at w alk a n d k n o w i n g I w a s pa r t o f i t w a s r eall y r e w a r d i n g . ” Creative Head
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For Him Barbering is back, so invest in a male-focused range – [ 3 D ] M EN b y S c hw a r z k o pf P r o f e s s i o n a l
The male grooming market is booming and next year it will account for more than £19 billion in revenue globally. And as the market improves, so does Schwarzkopf Professional’s [3D]MEN range: a new and improved line-up of six care and three styling products designed to meet the needs of men’s hair head on. The range echoes the principles of the [3D]MEN Tricho-System: [1] delivering great grooming performance, [2] offering instant and refreshing effects, [3] powered by scientifically proven active ingredients.
“The [3D]MEN range is refreshing and invigorating! The Moulding Wax, Texture Clay and Strong Hold Gel are brilliant as a lot of gents’ styles nowadays are more sleek and tailored” G e d M c C l e a r y, Pa u l G o r d o n H a i r
“We love the packaging and feel of [3D]MEN. It’s a lot simpler and more approachable-looking for male clients and our retail sell through is definitely a lot easier now” Gavin McIntyre, Hensmans
W h y B a r r i e S t e ph e n s t a r t e d growing his male business “We’ve focused on women’s cutting and colouring since we opened in 1996, but there’s a whole other clientele to attract and we’re perfectly located for maximising on walk-in appointments. This is why we created a beautiful environment for men in a separate part of the salon. It combines a bit of grunge with sophistication and is different to our existing men’s service in the main salon. The range of great men’s products, like [3D]MEN, has really helped boost out our men’s zone and we’ve found offering these really does add to our retail figures.”
For more information, call 01296 314000, visit Schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or search ‘SchwarzkopfProfessionalUnitedKingdom’ on Facebook 34
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Creative Head
13/8/14 12:57:34
For HER b e i n g a w o m a n j u s t g o t e v e n b e t t e r . Mee t O s i s + G l a m i n a t i o n r a n g e b y S c h w a r z k o p f P r o fe s s i o n a l
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The new g l a m o u r Women don’t want perfect hair they’re too scared to touch – they wa n t n at u r a l ly e f f o rt l e s s a n d understated. And these are the products they need to achieve it… Nowadays it’s all about the ‘undone done’ hair. Think Cara Delevingne’s dirty but shiny blonde tresses or Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley’s perfectly defined, but completely relaxed waves. You’ve probably already had clients begging for waves that are ‘just so’ as they attempt to show you
what they mean by scrunching their hair up in their hands. Now you can get the look they want with OSiS+ Glamination range by Schwarzkopf Professional – the first female-only styling range infused with liquid minerals for weightless shine effects. Discover the products that are set to change your clients’ lives…
Plumping Shine Mousse A light mousse with push-up effect provides body, grip and beautiful shine without that crispy hair feeling or overburdening.
Smooth Polish Elixir
Give clients… braids Prime Prep Spray
This multi-talented spray detangles and provides a non-static foundation with body and shine, it also helps to protect from brushing, blow-dry heat and UV light.
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Use this de-frizz polishing elixir before blow-drying for smoothness and splendid shine or apply to dry hair for a sleek look with extra control at the ends.
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Give clients‌ texture L i g h t Gl o s s y Holdspray
The flexible hairspray provides a beautiful mineral shine finish with natural hold and can be used as a texturising spray.
S t r o n g Gl o s s y Holdspray A powerful, non-sticky fixation hairspray that provides a glamorous mineral shine and a dry hold with a velvety feel.
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have it all
Cement your clients’ loyalty and gain new female c l i e n t s w i t h a r a n g e s p e c i f i ca l ly d e s i g n e d t o m e e t the needs of women’s hair – Osis+ Glamination by Sc h w a r z k o p f P r o f e s s i o n a l
Give clients what they desire with OSiS+ Glamination by Schwarzkopf Professional. For details, call 01296 314000, visit Schwarzkopf-professional.com or search ‘Schwarzkopf Professional United Kingdom’ on Facebook
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The Coterie
Leeds
The Coterie is RETURNING TO YORKSHIRE – and you’re invited! Hear from fashion’s frontline at this exclusive gathering of talent
Monday 22 September 2014 7pm until 10pm White Cloth Gallery, Leeds Sponsored by
Image of Sharmadean Reid by Hayley Benoit at Art Wednesday
Guest speakers
Sharmadean Reid Creative consultant and founder of WAH Nails
George Northwood Session stylist and salon owner
Jessica DiNer Beauty and health editor at British Vogue
Members attend for free RSVP laura@the-coterie.net Non-member tickets cost £25. Call to book 01434 610933
The Coterie – Creative HEAD’s networking club for hair and fashion professionals 01434 610933 l info@the-coterie.net l creativeheadmag.com/events/the-coterie
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PRETENCE IS AN OFFENCE. Mix, match and manipulate new Bed Head cult creations to suit your unique style. Go it alone! Don’t be a clone. You can find Bed Head at cutting edge salons.
Your Hair. Your Way. UK: 0844 844 0944 BEDHEAD 2014 PRETENCE_DPS_CreativeHead_12_08_14.indd 2
Ireland: 01890 812022
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Jo Whiley Awa r d s final
It’s a full house
It’s that time of year again when everyone starts clamouring for tickets to the Wella TrendVision AWARD UK & Ireland Final! Taking place at Camden’s Roundhouse on 6 October, find out why you don’t want to miss out… Entries are in, judges have judged and the finalists have been revealed. Now it’s time for the most fabulous part: The Wella TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final. It’s been an exciting few months following the progress of the TrendVision Award competition. From the hopefuls at the Photographic stage, where entrants were required to interpret Wella’s Urban Native or Borderline Beauty trends for the Young Talent or Color categories, to seeing the action at the Regional Heats, this year’s Trendvision Award has been, quite simply, breathtaking. The panel of judges for the Photographic heat, which included Caroline Spencer from Sassoon, Jayson Gray from Toni&Guy, Jake Unger from HOB Academy and Angelo Vallillo from Zullo & Holland, found the standard of entries extremely high this year.
But this was nothing compared with the difficult task the Regional Heats judges faced, as they had to select 20 Young Talent and 16 Color UK finalists from more than 100 competitors. The sell-out Regionals, which took place in London, Edinburgh, Manchester and Nottingham, also saw standout shows and presentations by Sassoon Academy, Marc Antoni and Sanrizz. The UK finalists will now compete at the TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final for the chance to be crowned the Color and Young Talent UK Gold winners in a spectacular show on Monday 6 October at the Roundhouse in Camden. But that’s not all, as part of its mission to support up-and-coming stars, all of the gold winners will go on to win a mentoring programme from an industry icon.
want a ticket for The TrendVision Award Final?
Apart from being the first to see who will be the Color and Young Talent UK Gold winners, you’ll be treated to a host of stunning shows and top entertainment
The TrendVision award Final features: • Spectacular shows from icons such as Toni&Guy and the Sebastian Professional Creative Style Artists, with more to be announced soon! • Drinks reception and three-course dinner • Full entertainment and aftershow party • Competitor catwalk and the all-important awards ceremony • Renowned radio and TV presenter Jo Whiley as host Don’t miss out on what is going to be a truly memorable evening. TICKETS COST: £195 (inc VAT) per person.
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TO BOOK your TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final tickets, speak to your Wella Professionals account manager, call 0845 6018 128 or email wellaevents.im@pg.com
“TRENDVISION AWARD IS ONE EVENT I WON’T MISS. THE ENTRANTS HAVE WORKED SO HARD TO GET TO THE FINAL AND BEING ABLE TO SHARE THEIR EXCITEMENT IS FANTASTIC” SEAN DAWSON, HOB SALONS AND SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL CREATIVE ARTIST
“THE TRENDVISION AWARD HAS A TRACK RECORD OF LAUNCHING CAREERS. I’VE SEEN MANY WINNERS GO ON TO EXCEL IN THEIR FIELD” DARREN AMBROSE, D&J AMBROSE
NEW FOR 2014
OK, BOOK ONLINE! TO BO E.NET/ VISIT EVENTSFORC AND TVA2014UKANDIREL
Don’t miss a thing! Like ‘Wella UK’ on Facebook, follow on Twitter @wellapro #tva or visit wellatrendvision.com 39 83
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THe hottest events every month – get yourself scene!
Nicholas Wood, president of Goldwell UK and Ireland
Scene JUST AN
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Irene Meikle and William Wilson
Steve Jones
The UK’s bid for Goldwell Color Zoom glory lies in the hands of three female contestants this year, following the announcement of the national competition winners at the brand’s annual Summer Party in London. The evening, held at glamorous Victoria House and featuring a mind-blowing Mark Leeson show, was a thrilling affair – statuesque mannequins turned out to be real-life models and canapés were not what they seemed; beetroot-flavoured macarons, anyone? Even the DJ was revealed to be TV hunk Steve Jones. The winners from the evening will represent the UK at the prestigious Color Zoom Global Event in Berlin in October, hoping that their interpretations of Goldwell’s Reallusion collection will scoop them the opportunity to help shape global colour trends in 2016. Impressive, creative and wonderfully enjoyable – Color Zoom is a Goldwell triumph, and we can’t wait to see what Berlin has in store!
Mark Leeson
illusion
Creative Head
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Jessica Hay Becky Barnes
New Talent Category Jessica Hay, Hanks Hairdressing
Creative Head
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Creative Colorist Category Becky Barnes, Webster Whiteman Partner Colorist Category Dorothy Sturgeon, Shane Bennett
Dorothy Sturgeon
And the winners are‌
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John Paul DeJoria Takashi
Meet me in
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Pamela Peretti
Heather Kaanoi
Linda Yodice
We were unprepared for Paul Mitchell’s annual The Gathering 2014, not least because the flash floods meant we were sliding down The Strip in our flip-flops for the most part but also because, well, can you ever be fully prepared for one of the year’s biggest parties? The famous city of sin played host to about 3,500 hairdressers at the ARIA Resort and Casino for two days of networking and discovery. Last year, John Paul DeJoria, co-founder of John Paul Mitchel Systems, started the show by riding onto the stage on a motorbike. This year he flew over the audience, still sat on his motorbike, attached to a harness. The show also saw Paul Mitchell’s global artistic director, Robert Cromeans, reveal the brand’s latest colour range, Ultimate Color Repair, before unveiling its newest innovation. The luxurious Marula Oil is the next big thing from Paul Mitchell, but it isn’t due to arrive in the UK until 2015 at least. The sun came out for the closing show on the second day, which saw Robert Cromeans hover over the stage popping balloons, and stylists create incredible, colourful looks. “We wish you more than prosperity,” said John Paul DeJoria as he closed the show. “We wish you peace, love and happiness.”
Angus Mitchell
Las vegas
Creative Head
14/8/14 12:57:07
Jason Yates Stephanie Kocielski Jason Reyes
Robert Cromeans Lucie Doughty
I wa s t here ! “ 0nce a year Las Vegas becomes t he Mecca
for hairdressers as we al l f lock t o t he Nevada desert for Paul Mitchel l’s The Gat hering. This year’s rEv olution Gat hering was a two-day spectacle wort hy of t he glitz and glamour of Vegas – I won’t ever forget seeing John Paul r ocking it on stage t o House of Pain’s Jump Around and ‘wow’ is al l I can say about t he grand f inale show. If I had t o choose a fav ourite memory, it would be Robert Cr omeans f loating acr oss t he stage, popping bal loons as he went! ” Kris C onstantinou, Fabulous Hair, Palmers Green
Creative Head
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Lisa Eldridge and Angelo Seminara
Join us! The Coterie pops up in Leeds on 22 September – don’t miss out!
We’re
made up! We were in the presence of greatness when hair hero Angelo Seminara joined make-up maestro Lisa Eldridge at The Coterie. Lisa, who has primped and preened famous faces such as Kate Winslet and Keira Knightley, took to the hot seat to quiz Angelo. He spoke about his humble beginnings at a small barbershop in Italy at the age of 11 and his rise to prominence as a stylist who is revered for his technical skill and vision. From cutting the hair of corpses to working with Dolce & Gabbana and art directing for Italian product house Davines, Angelo thrilled the audience with his tales of a life less ordinary. Lisa, one of the world’s most respected make-up artists, has worked with British and Italian Vogue and fashion houses such as Chloé and Prada, also spoke about her blog, Lisaeldridge.com, which boasts more than two million regular readers, as well as her road to success as a make-up artist. And there was a goodie bag from Davines, too. Bellissimo!
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Michael Douglas
Ruby Wax
Amanda Wakeley Eugene Souleiman
Tim Steiner
The social
network Amid the pastoral setting of the Heythrop Park Crowne Plaza in Oxfordshire, hundreds of performance-driven salon owners amassed to see the very latest from Wella’s popular Business Network Live, the annual event that is focused on boosting salon business. It was another stellar line-up of speakers this year, including the eccentric and fascinating Ruby Wax on the power of the brain, Ocado founding director Tim Steiner, London Fashion Week designer Amanda Wakeley OBE, and ’80s hit maker (and steam train enthusiast) Pete Waterman – all ably hosted by hairdresser Michael Douglas. Book now for next summer – you won’t be disappointed.
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Creative Head
14/8/14 12:59:13
THE ULTIMATE LONG HAIR STYLING EXPERIENCE
LORNA EVANS EDUCATION Long Hair Secrets Unlocked 2014 Day 1 Learn the jigsaw puzzle theory of styling. Workshop hot tips and tricks that will help you achieve fast preparation and professional photo finish hair.
Day 2 The looks you will learn, guarantee to send you away feeling confident and competent, go back to your work place and be able to build your long hair styling business. This course is suitable for all levels of hairdressers.
Learn 10 looks in 2 day s
P: Jacqueline UK 07960875725 or E: info@lornaevanseducation.com.au
www.lornaevanseducation.com.au
Proudly held at Eleven Salons Mayfair London
Hair by Lorna Evans Photography by Owen Zhang
Bookings & Details
Gen Itoh (right) Antony Mascolo
Our
favourite Over at the always bouncing Boxpark, pop-up Bed Head Hair Space hosted a party for the hipsters and urbanites of East London, in association with Vice magazine. TIGI international artistic director, Anthony Mascolo, welcomed guests including hair legend Robert Lobetta before praising Bed Head Hair Space director, Gen Itoh, and his team for their passion for this new project. Guests were then treated to some drystyling before quenching their thirst on a hot summer’s evening with some Bed Head cocktails on the upper deck of Boxpark while DJ sets and live music kept the beat as uptempo as the temperature. Bed Head Hair Space is a multi-functional area that’s part salon, part shop, part gallery, part social hub and part workshop. We love a bit of fusion…
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Robert Lobetta
vice
Creative Head
14/8/14 13:00:47
Our vision is that (hair)fashion nowadays comes directly from the streets instead of from the catwalk and that’s of course streets in urban areas. Doop is inspired by everything happening in big cities like Amsterdam, London, Paris, Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, Berlin and so on. We tried to translate this into hairstyling products of the highest standard, fit to meet the needs of unique individuals. Our claim is that “If we don’t have it, you probably don’t need it”. h e re b
el
t In Dutch the name Doop is pronounced “dope” and in all our communication we are always playfully referring to that.
warning: doop is extremely addictive! ebel
the r be l MORE INFO? GO TO DOOPPRODUCTS.COM th e re OR VISIT OUR FACEBOOK PAGE FACEBOOK.COM/DOOPPRODUCTS AND WIN DOOP PRODUCTS!
DOOP_UK_220x285.indd 1
Doop in the United Kingdom is presented by:
FRESH APPROACH UK 10 CAMERON COURT, WINWICK QUAY WARRINGTON, CHESHIRE. WA2 8RE
T: +44 (0)1925 578000 E: ENQUIRIES@FRESHAPPROACH.UK.COM W: WWW.FRESHAPPROACH.UK.COM
08-08-14 10:59
YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE NEW SEASON
R U N W A Y
AUTUMN WINTER 2 014
CHUK App Ad.indd 1
AVAILABLE NOW TO DOWNLOAD FREE ON THE CREATIVE HEAD APP
14/8/14 11:28:55
TO ENSURE YOU DON’T MISS OUT, VISIT YOUR APP STORE NOW AND SEARCH ‘CREATIVE HEAD’
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e k a M
t n e m e t a t as
ill ients w l c r u o eD sy colour cts they’ll ne e h t n io du from tig al and the pro n w o d y’ll ste the low we Get the styles the covet,
Tigi 24-pp 1
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live free
We have the right to express ourselves and the strength to stand up for what we believe in. get the products that give you the freedom to create your own identity with TIGI Bed Head’s four new ‘in your face’ rule breakers Whether through the clothes we wear, our make-up or our hair, we express who we are constantly – and this is what TIGI Bed Head’s new range extension is all about. Designed for those who like to change their style to suit their mood and for those that stand out and never fit in; the styling products are a new twist on four of TIGI Bed Head’s already best-selling products. The team at TIGI Bed Head was given the task of coming up with a new angle to the iconic, highperformance products. The brief: to create brilliant, ‘in-your-face’ but fun products, enabling individuals to break the rules and enforce their own identity. So, discover how these super-powered products are flexing the hold, making strong stronger and shine, well, shinier.
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Thke, yglowssaynlotc..k.s
thic
T h ey nee B ed Hea
d … R
Big mouth
d MOTO
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MOUTH
If your clients are crying out for thicker hair with more volume and an injection of shine, then Motor Mouth is a secret TIGI won’t mind you sharing. With an awesome ‘thickifier’ that gives huge volume without weighing hair down, Motor Mouth creates a great finish with extra gloss, thanks to its ultra-violet glow, so clients can shine in the dark and the light.
“Motor Mouth is very versatile. It can be layered with other products, and it’s also a great cutting lotion. I love how light it is, so I use it on fine hair as I know it won’t weigh hair down”
Akos Bodi, TIGI European creative director
14/8/14 13:11:27
go all out
anttra… Thyesymow nds oth s
silk
They need… Bed Head BLO W-OUT
The much-loved Bed Head After-Party is the crème that makes your hair ‘party every day’ – controlling flyaways and leaving hair silky smooth – but now you can really get the party started with Bed Head Blow-Out. It smoothes and defrizzes, doing everything After-Party does, but it now comes with added golden mica for a sparkling shine.
“The thing I love about Blow-Out is that the added mica gives such a high level of shine. It enriches the colour of brunettes and redheads and, as it’s slightly lighter, it works wonderfully on all hair textures” Thomas Osborn, TIGI US education director
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14/8/14 13:11:44
On hol d …g as they do anastlo Thtoeystaw n y up
their hairstyle
T hey need… Bed Head MANIPULATOR
“This Manipulator in a wax version has a stronger hold and matte finish – and the texture is amazing! It’s sure to be a favourite with stylists and clients”
MATTE
Manipulator Matte guarantees your client’s style will never fail them as it keeps hair on lockdown even when they pull an all-nighter. With a stronger hold than the original Bed Head Manipulator, this wax texture has a matte finish and is super-powered with bodifying texturisers to max out any style.
Thomas Osborn, TIGI US education director
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i x e l F
e m ti They want…
hair with fle
xible hold
They need… Bed Head FLEXI HEAD For those times when you want to create strong (but in no way stiff) hold – this is your spray. Flexi Head has retained its predecessor Hard Head’s notorious strength but has added to it with freestyle flexibility. Want a change? You can rework it.
“Flexi Head is perfect for those times when you need to rework it. It’s layerable, workable and brushable so you can build up the hold” Akos Bodi, TIGI European creative director Let clients express themselves and run free with TIGI Bed Head. Call 0844 844 0944 (UK), 01890 812 022 (Ireland) or visit bedhead.com
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Intense colour It’s time to dig deep as this season’s shades get all intense with radiant reds and vivid violets making an impact. Look to TIGI copyright©olour for the latest take on A/W14’s key shades
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red shift
Because reds are always hot, the TIGI Creative Team has created a palette of intense fiery hues
This season, things are heating up. Rich velvets, fine metallics and sheer fabrics in hues of bold copper, magenta, maroon and burgundy are taking centre stage at Prada, Anna Sui and Versace. Emulating these shades into the hair, TIGI has created opulent red, copper and mahogany shades. TIGI global technical creative director, Christel Lundqvist, has used her extensive knowledge of colourists’ and clients’ needs to work with TIGI’s research team to create the new shades. The demi-permanent gloss shades are ammonia-free and perfect for clients wanting vibrancy without total commitment. The intense shades are a fantastic way to refresh previously coloured hair, reduce colour fade and add incredible shine. These permanent creative shades provide intense results and offer up to 100 per cent coverage, lift up to four levels and have been developed to provide bold colour that makes an impact.
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Purple gain
Get up-to-the-minute shades in a moment with these bold violet tones from TIGI copyright©olour
This series of intense shades were developed by the TIGI Creative Team to provide bold, impactful colour. From lovely lilacs to vibrant violets, all shades of purple are reigning supreme this season. Violet is a fun shade that is about power, beauty, extravagance and individualism. Even better, violet tones are not only flattering to the complexion, but can also add depth and shine, creating an unmatched intensity, which is why TIGI copyright©olour has introduced four intense violets. Always keen to push TIGI copyright©olour’s performance and creativity, Christel Lundqvist has worked tirelessly with TIGI’s R&D team to create the new shades. The shades have been developed in both a permanent (creative) and a demi-permanent base (gloss), with major and minor tones of violet to create extravagant and passionate violet results.
Get your colour on now with TIGI copyright©olour, Call 0844 844 0944 (UK), 01890 812 022 (Ireland) or visit tigicopyrightcolour.com
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#fashionistabrunette
Blondes have more fun but brunettes do it better. Discover which one you are with Catwalk by TIGI Fashionista
Which ONE Why should blondes have all the fun? Illuminate and intensify bold brunettes with these new colour-enhancing wash and care products from Catwalk by TIGI. This season, people everywhere are turning to the dark side, so if your client fancies themself a glossy brunette, reach for Catwalk by TIGI’s FASHIONISTA BRUNETTE shampoo, conditioner and treatment mask.
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CATWALK BY TIGI FASHIONISTA BRUNETTE SHAMPOO and CONDITIONER
CATWALK BY TIGI FASHIONISTA BRUNETTE MASK
Make dull hair days a thing of the past with this colour-enhancing shampoo and conditioner. Blended with horse chestnut extract and fuelled by warm toners, this duo provides sharp colour and impeccable shine. On top of this, the conditioner contains aminoshield technology and rich oils of coconut and almond to help revive radiance and protect against breakage. Hair is left lightly scented with sweet notes of caramel toffee.
Wrap hair in this colourinfused treatment mask, designed especially for warm hair tones. Containing brunette dyes and horse chestnut extract, which helps repair signs of damage and boost colour vibrancy, your clients’ hair will be left beautifully nourished and full of shine.
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#fashionistablonde
are you? Men may marry brunettes, but blondes won’t settle for anything less than perfection – be it in their man, their life or their hair. So give them the level of excellence that they need and treat your blonde clients right. Get the most out of their blonde locks with Catwalk by TIGI’s FASHIONISTA VIOLET shampoo, conditioner and new treatment mask.
Win it! For your chance to win Fashionista Violet and Brunette wash and care sets from Catwalk by TIGI, visit creativeheadmag.com
CATWALK BY TIGI FASHIONISTA VIOLET SHAMPOO and CONDITIONER
CATWALK BY TIGI FASHIONISTA VIOLET MASK
Treat your clients’ blonde locks with everything they deserve and more with this shampoo and conditioner. Featuring violet dyes, lactic acid, glycerin and conditioning agents, this twosome does it all: boost cool tones, reduce brassy ones, protect from heat and deliver fabulous shine.
Give blonde locks a boost and an extra special treat with this luxurious and indulgent hair mask. Containing violet dyes and conditioning agents, this mask will restore dull and dry blondes to their former glory.
Let your clients find out whether they’re a brunette or a blonde with Catwalk by TIGI Fashionista. Call 0844 844 0944 (UK), 01890 812 022 (Ireland) or visit catwalkbytigi.com
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Fashion frontline Wherever there’s a fashion show, you’ll find the TIGI International Creative Team. They’re always in the thick of it, discovering the latest hair trends to bring back to TIGI, which then brings it all back to you. It’s time to find out what your clients will be wanting this A/W14
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Ruffian Tigi 24-pp 15
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Tome
Parkchoonmoo Tome
Ruffian
Osman
Parkchoonmoo
Osman
Osman
To enter this club you need to find the secret door! This is a world of ultimate chic, where fabrics can be crisp or fluid, but always evoke luxury. The hair is understated for a healthy-looking, minimal elegance.
Parkchoonmoo
trend: Members only What it’s all about:
Parkchoonmoo
KTZ
know your Iris Van Herpen
Alon Livine
Alon Livine
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Iris Van Herpen
Alon Livine
KTZ
trend: Stellar empress What it’s all about: Stepping into a fantasy world, the sky’s the limit when it comes to high shine, embellishment and opulence. The Stellar Empress’ hair is her crown and glory; dual-textured and multifaceted, smooth and shiny.
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Nonoo
Katie Gallagher
Frankie Morello
Katie Gallagher
Frankie Morello
John Richmond
trend: rock royalty What it’s all about:
Nonoo
John Richmond
John Richmond
Part of the after dark posse, this season’s spin on rock chic shows a rule breaker and statement maker. The look combines a dark silhouette with splashes of colour. The hair has texture and has defined, strong partings presenting mood-changing, alternative attitudes.
Frankie Morello
our trends
Manish Arora
Manish Arora
Sophia Webster
Antipodium
Mark Fast
Au Jour Le Jour
From eye-popping colours to dark and sultry, with a little intergalactic royalty thrown in – get set for a visually sumptuous A/W14
trend: candy pop What it’s all about:
Sophia Webster
Mark Fast
Referencing past eras, from the ’60s through to the ’90s, the A/W14 season introduces bright candy colours, popping-out against a sea of calmer tones. The hair is a reflection, combining art, life, music and travel. It’s cool to be happy!
Manish Arora
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Love it? Get it You’ve seen the A/W14 trends, now learn how to get them in your salon and in your repertoire, with the TIGI Creative Team
The show: Antipodium The look: Cornrows Recreate: “This season, the Antipodium girl is part book-worm, part ’90s raver. We’re talking ancient Rome meets Camden Town. For the hair, we created a really structured look that was a nod to classical Roman architecture, but added a club-kid edge.” Nick Irwin, TIGI global creative director
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The show: Iris Van Herpen The look: Intriciate braiding
Recreate: “Called Biopiracy, Iris Van Herpen’s collection questions the freedom of the body, and shows life as a performance. Girls become aerial embryos, encased in vacuumpacked plastic. The use of organic silhouettes amplify movement.” Maria Kovacs, TIGI European session director
The show: Mark Fast The look: Dishevelled perfection
Recreate: “This collection is themed around opposing forces, it’s about enjoying the good things in life and not being afraid to let loose and live. The look we created is young with attitude. Even though her style is carefree and lived-in, we can’t forget this girl’s good side.” Nick Irwin, TIGI global creative director
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The importance of being educated By hairdressers, for hairdressers – there is no more apt description of TIGI’s commitment to the industry. TIGI reveals the foundations that make it the innovative, creative and revolutionary brand it is today TIGI was born from a desire to push creativity and achieve perfection. To reach his creative goals, TIGI international artistic director Anthony Mascolo needed hair products he trusted, products that performed to the highest standards and allowed him to achieve the looks he envisaged. These founding principles remain. The TIGI International Creative Team continue to push the development of new products inspired by the day-to-day experiences of their own work and a constant vision to drive professionalism and artistry.
TIGI creates and uses its own products “We understand what the professional hairdresser wants and needs,” explains Anthony. “From our own perspective, we use TIGI products to style and finish the hairstyles we create for our own collections; they provide the starting point for education and are vital to our seminar and stage work, driving our ideas and new concepts.” TIGI products are designed by hairdressers for hairdressers and are the tools to elevate the craft of hairdressing to a higher level of creativity. The products enable stylists to push boundaries, allowing absolute condition, style, shape, texture and finish.
The hairdresser is at the heart of TIGI TIGI has a long heritage of education, with a desire to work with the professional stylist. Through world-class education programmes, the TIGI International Creative Team share their vast experience with ambitious hairdressers who want to push their own work forward. Eleven years ago, TIGI international artistic director, Anthony Mascolo, created the TIGI International Creative Team. Since then, the team has expanded across the globe. There are now TIGI Academies in London, New York, Milan and Taipei, as well as TIGI Learning Labs in Dallas and Manchester and global regional education throughout the world. The TIGI International Creative Team lies at the heart of TIGI, creating, innovating, researching and sharing ideas. Highly experienced in education, the team members also have years of experience as salon and session hairdressers. Isn’t it time you discovered just what it is about TIGI Education and its Creative Team that keeps hairdressers coming back for more?
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the way ahead Keen to improve your skills? Or maybe you need to know all about the latest trends? TIGI has the course for you…
The colour courses
TIGI global technical creative director Christel Lundqvist and the TIGI Technical Creative Team focus their new teaching concepts around the daily work of the salon colourist. Looking at how to identify the best colour for an individual’s personal colouring and style, the courses are always fully booked – proving they’re extremely successful, and with good reason.
Course: FUNDAMENTAL COLOUR This popular one-day course is designed to expand colour knowledge and increase practical skills, taking your work to the next level. It covers fundamental colour theory, product knowledge and practical work. This gives the very best foundation to fundamental colour.
Course: TRANSITION COLOUR This course focuses on strong, salon-viable, creative colouring, creative techniques and colour mixtures. The overall aim is to progress skills, build confidence and competence and enhance the creative colour approach and consultation process.
Course: CREATIVE CONSULTATION This highly successful two-day course, conceived by Christel Lundqvist in liaison with the TIGI global technical creative team, takes an original and individual approach to growing your colour business via new creative thinking and enhanced fashion knowledge. TIGI’s unique concept creatively blends hair and complexion analysis while also identifying individual fashion tribes, resulting in the creation of bespoke colours. Colourists will learn how to upgrade customer service and enhance the client service with a totally personal experience.
Course: CREATIVE CONSULTATION 2.0 Following the success of Creative Consultation, Christel and her team have created a higher-level experience, allowing hairdressers to look at colour through fashion tribes, skin and complexion analysis, beauty, make-up, personality and style. The knowledge and skills learnt from Creative Consultation 2.0 permits the colourist to demonstrate superior expertise and assurance, confidently providing clients with a unique and highly personal consultation. Book it! To find out more and to book yourself onto a course, email uk.education@tigihaircare.com
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The cutting courses
The TIGI Creative Team uses the experiences and ideas that they’ve gained from working on hair and fashion shows, as well as on photoshoots, to create courses specifically designed for today’s progressive salon hairdresser. TIGI Education gives hairdressers a headstart to develop teams and build a profitable business. Course content is continually updated so hairdressers can constantly refresh their work.
Course: MEN’S FOCUS Through extensive research, TIGI has identified that the modern man wants personalised cutting and styling ideas, which is why the brand’s intermediate to advanced course offers the latest cutting and styling techniques aimed directly at for today’s fast-growing, modern male clientele.
Course: FUNDAMENTAL CUTTING This one-day starter course is an introduction to TIGI education for qualified hairdressers. Using a step-by-step approach, an understanding of fundamental cuts is carefully explained along with important salon information.
“Our courses have been created to allow the hairdresser to continually progress to the next level, expanding knowledge and promoting new ideas to progress artistry” Nick Irwin, TIGI global creative director
OTHER COURSES available PRODUCT FOCUS BUSINESS EDUCATION UP CLOSE & PERSONAL VIP TRAINING ONE-TO-ONE PRIVATE TRAINING TEACHER TRAINING
Course: CLASSIC CUTTING Understanding and perfecting classic cutting techniques is paramount, allowing the hairdresser to progress to a higher, more artistic level of work. This course provides the hairdresser with all the necessary skills needed to become an advanced hairdresser.
Course: GRADUATION SKILLS Graduation is one of the most difficult skills to master. This course focuses on the methodology, terminology and techniques of graduation in a three-day intensive session.
Course: CREATIVE CUTTING The TIGI International Creative Team’s latest work is shared in this constantly evolving advanced course, packed with new ideas, research and techniques. The programme provides directional, innovative information based on the latest collections created by the team.
Course: SESSION HAIR With their fashion credentials very much in place, the TIGI Creative Team has created a trend-led education course for cutting-edge hairdressers that are keen to learn the hottest trends straight from the catwalk.
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All eyes on hair
Know the hottest trends that clients will covet and create beautifully styled hair – it’s all possible with TIGI
To find out more, call 0844 844 0944 (UK), 01890 812 022 (Ireland) or visit tigiprofessional.com. To keep up to date with the latest news and trends, visit Facebook.com/TIGIprofessional or on Twitter @TIGIcreatives
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YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE NEW SEASON
R U N W A Y
AUTUMN WINTER 2 014
AVAILABLE NOW TO DOWNLOAD FREE ON THE CREATIVE HEAD APP
CHUK App Ad.indd 2
14/8/14 11:30:52
TO ENSURE YOU DON’T MISS OUT, VISIT YOUR APP STORE NOW AND SEARCH ‘CREATIVE HEAD’
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18/8/14 15:10:49
Nude and improved The big A/W14 trend is a return to natural tones and finishes. Deliver beautiful nude hues while providing hair with plenty of TLC, all thanks to COLORINSIDER’s three new Luminous Beige shades from Matrix Cashmere sweaters in biscuit hues, divinely tailored trousers in cappuccino tones – A/W14 catwalks showcased a return to the sophisticated, chic beauty of nude shades, with make-up and beauty trends following suit. You can count on Matrix to have its finger on the fashion pulse – meet the new Luminous Beige shades from COLORINSIDER, an ideal addition to your salon’s colour collection. But it isn’t just about the trends, it’s also about the technology. Your most beauty-savvy clients will know about oils – their bathroom shelves are bursting with facial oils, nail oils and cosmetics enriched with a variety of naturally derived oils. COLORINSIDER delivers here, too. It’s a breakthrough in colour for Matrix, the brand’s first 100 per cent no ammonia and odourless permanent colour with Oil Delivery System technology. Want to know what that means for you and your client? Put simply, you can deliver a sensual in-salon experience,
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“I love no ammonia COLORINSIDER because it’s gentle and really conditions the hair. The new luminous shades are gorgeous” Sharon Peake, director, Ethos Hairdressing
with that clever oil pushing colour into the heart of the hair fibre while helping to protect it, comfort the scalp and ensure beautiful hair from root to tip. And no strong ammonia fragrance either – what’s not to like? Featuring a portfolio of hues that can lighten and darken up to three levels and cover up to 100 per cent of white hair, COLORINSIDER allows you to conjure a brilliant bespoke finish for each of your clients – whether it’s a radiant copper, a rich brown, or a truly luminous on-trend beige blonde. Now, we all know hair that’s coloured blonde needs a little extra attention, so COLORINSIDER blends together perfect on-trend shades to create beautiful, breathtaking beige blonde tones that shimmer and shine, while hair is hugged by an extra dose of TLC. Make no mistake – beige is anything but bland. We’re talking HD colour that’s true, sharp, saturated. Be a trend insider with COLORINSIDER from Matrix.
Want to know more about the power of oil-driven COLORINSIDER from Matrix? Call 0800 387608 or visit matrixhaircare.co.uk Creative Head
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Proof. Power. Passion… PROBLEM S O LV E R
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…Three words that embody exactly what Living Proof strives for, as it sets out to solve the toughest hair problems. Don’t think it’s possible? The proof is in the bottle
CREATIVE HEAD
12/8/14 16:15:48
Image courtesy of Frank Terry
what happens when world class stylists team up with some of the US’s most accomplished scientists and inventors in medicine and biotech? Beauty merged with brilliant science, naturally. Many companies combine beauty experts and stylists with a biotech scientist, but no other brand has the genius of scientist, inventor and entrepreneur, Bob Langer and his patented scientific breakthroughs. Living Proof is about creating products that really deliver on their promise with undeniable results – no more hope in a jar, just Living Proof. There are myriad reasons why you should want to carry Living Proof in your salon, not least for the wonderful way it’ll make your clients feel but also because its products will bring your talents and craft to an entirely new level. The brand has received more than 40 industry awards and its co-owner is the instantly recognisable, Jennifer Aniston. She was so impressed by the science and products that she joined the team and became a co-owner. And she brought long-time stylist and friend, Chris McMillan, along with her. But back to the science: Living Proof’s patented Healthy Hair molecule OFPMA is a superior alternative to the traditional ingredients of silicones and oils. It improves hair health and changes habits by creating a molecular shield that perfects the hair strand texture, making the surface smooth and polished, reduces tangling and breakage, improves moisture balance and repels dirt and oil, keeping hair cleaner longer. Need more proof? See the products behind the brand and discover how Living Proof offers more than just hope in a bottle – it offers a solution.
Power of three
Here are just a few products from the Style Lab line. The Living Proof range also includes Full, Restore and No Frizz
PRIME STYLE EXTENDER CREAM Oil, sulphate and silicone-free, this one-of-a-kind hair primer makes styles last twice as long. Formulated with Living Proof’s advanced priming system and powered by its patented Healthy Hair molecule, it creates a thin, weightless shield that repels dirt and oil to keep hair cleaner. It also provides an optimal base for styles and can be used alone or with other products.
SATIN HAIR SERUM Designed for medium to coarse hair, this oil and siliconefree serum provides superior smoothness and cuts styling time by nearly half. Powered by Living Proof’s Sera-Smooth Technology, Satin provides the smoothest hair possible with unrivalled frizz protection. It adds shine, movement and softness, and improves manageability.
FLEX HAIRSPRAY This multi-tasking hairspray provides three solutions in one bottle and enables you to achieve any look on damp or dry hair. Powered by Living Proof’s Flexible Web Technology, it will hold hair in place throughout the styling process. When used to set, it creates lasting volume with touchable, brushable hold; when used to style it builds, shapes and adds structure; when used to finish, Flex gives flexible hold, natural movement and humidity protection with a beautiful shine.
Living Proof is distributed in the UK by The ICON Consultancy. To find out more, call 01282 613413, email enquiries@iconteam.co.uk or visit livingproof.com Creative Head
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SHOWSTOPPERS!
HAIR AND FASHION MAKE A PERFECT PARTNERSHIP – AS THE 14-YEAR COLLABORATION BETWEEN L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL AND CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS PROVES! THE TEAM BEHIND THE INCREDIBLE LOOKS FROM THE 2014 BA SHOW SHARE ALL FROM BACKSTAGE THE CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS BA SHOW out-shouts and outshines all others, and this year saw an explosion of creativity, with a catwalk show in the adjacent car park at the new Granary Building in Kings Cross. It was back in 2001 that L’Oréal Professionnel and the world famous Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design first forged this exciting partnership to nurture cutting edge talent. It aims to recognise and promote the way hair and fashion have historically been linked, combining up-and-
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coming creative talent with the hair stars of tomorrow. Mark Fast, Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane and David Koma are just some of the talents the BA show has included. For 2014, the L’Oréal Professionnel team created three looks for the show using Tecni.ART – the triangular shaped Wide Waves, inspired by the paintings of Velasquez; the well-gelled, centre-parted Star Wars-inspired look; and the ’30s Messy Emilia, brushed out curls plaited and pinned. What was it like to be part of such a show? The team reveals all…
CREATIVE HEAD
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“Things change quickly backstage so making sure the hair works with the clothes and the designer is vital.”
“I loved working with the students. They’re coming up in the world so it’s good to see what they’re up to.”
“Working backstage was intense but a good experience. You have to be quick to make sure every look is perfect.”
“It was great learning how to adapt looks to suit different hair types and textures and how to transfer it back to the salon.”
Jason Lawrence, Trevor Sorbie
Troy Barber, Seanhanna
MIchaela Galvin, Jo Hansford
Nicola Green, Greys Hairdressing
“These shows taught me the importance of teamwork. I also learnt that as a team you should always have a plan!”
“I really enjoyed meeting other stylists and learning new tips and techniques. I learnt that preparation is everything!”
“This show had a lot of outfit changes, so making sure the hair was perfect was tough – but being backstage was amazing!”
“To be a backstage success you have to be able to multi-task, take advice and turn looks around quickly.”
Kate Harrison, Westrow
Grace Harwood, Charles Worthington
Jade Litten, Seanhanna
Paolo Mensile, Paul Edmonds
“It’s always a challenge working with a new team, but it’s great for ideas as you can get too comfortable in the salon.”
“The hair has to be durable as models have so many changes. I’ve learnt a lot working out how to create a look that fits perfectly.”
Joey Wheeler, Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa
Ma Ha, Trevor Sorbie
To find out more about new talent development opportunities, call 0800 028344 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/loreal-professionnel/new-talent Creative Head
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LEE CRICHTON
BIG IDEA
No.5 The
Experience WELCOME TO the new wave of underground hairdressing. The No.5 Experience is quite literally underground in an airy basement studio in east London, promising a more bespoke, personal service. This is the brainchild of stylist Lee Crichton, a self-proclaimed ‘organic hairdresser’, one-time assistant to Paul Merritt and veteran of Bloww, Ledbury McIntyre and Radio London – who cuts dry to avoid any nasty surprises once clients get home. For £80, guests can opt for The No.5 Experience, which involves sitting down with a glass of bubbly and a 45-minute chat at Lee’s desk before any scissors are unsheathed; this way he gets to understand the client’s lifestyle. The cut will then fit into that world. Clients, it’s time to get personal...
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Photography by Meg Lucas
See MORE at layeredonline.com Creative Head
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14/8/14 11:38:00
nature’s solutions for thinning hair our winning formula enhances your business 97% naturally derived* invati™ reduces hair loss due to breakage**
a
“It’s the best new addition to Aveda’s hair care line in years. Guests are praising the results and returning for more. It flies off the shelves.” Mette Haxthausen, Director, Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa, London
Did you know that 53% of women in the UK are concerned about hair thinning - and very few of them are satisfied with the products they’ve tried†? No wonder they’re turning to Aveda salons and invati™. Professional stylists are the most trusted source for advice†† – and with national billboard, print and digital media campaigns, Facebook and Twitter outreach, sampling and media attention everywhere from Grazia to Marie Claire, the word is out about invati™. Discover how you can help your customers and boost your business with invati™. Call 0870 192 5650 or visit aveda.co.uk today.
Hair by Antoinette Beenders. From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk. **74% of 94 women agreed they experienced less hair breakage after 8 weeks of using the invati™ system. National Invati Hair Survey, UK, September 2013 ††“Hair Loss and Treatment Methods”, Gallup Study, U.S. 2008 ©Aveda Corp.
*
†
Life through a filter Create on-trend colours in a flash with Wella Professionals’ INSTAMAT!C by Color Touch
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Answer honestly: how many of you would dare to put up a picture on Facebook of yourselves without filtering it through Instagram first? Let’s face it, life’s better when you Instagram it. Nowadays, everyone adds filters to their photos, creating diffused and instantly different finishes. It’s from this Instamat!c by Color Touch was born (the name inspired by the Instamatic camera). The new range of muted tones and matte gloss service gives a filtered effect on hair – perfect timing as clients and colourists demand unique results for their hair colour. Available in six shades, Instamat!c is
Creative Head
12/8/14 16:22:08
“Instamat!c’s palette is an amazing collection of soft, diffused and muted tones, and the matte gloss services allow for unlimited creativity” Josh Wood, Wella Professionals’ global creative director for colour
quick and easy for clients to change their colour as it fades beautifully. Be it a flash of colour or some on-trend matte pastel shades on the ends, Instamat!c provides that in-demand look to hair colour – giving colourists the perfect opportunity to appeal to younger, more expressive clients who crave instant colour that turns heads. More and more clients are looking for new and fashion forward ways to update their hair colour, and would love for their colourist to be able to suggest the very latest shades. With INSTAMAT!C, colourists can adapt and create on-trend shades for each client, without dedicating a long
period of time to it. In fact, with INSTAMAT!C clients can change their look in just 20 minutes – perfect for an instant weekend update. It makes it the ideal way to boost your clients’ spend on colour, as well as their frequency of visit as they’ll be wanting to try a different shade every weekend. So how does it create that matte, filtered effect? Color Touch INSTAMAT!C technology is formulated with a fine blend of colour molecules that are diffused gradually into the hair cuticles. Everyone is already talking about INSTAMAT!C – check out the Wella Instagram page and upload your looks using #colourflash.
Filter your colour today with INSTAMAT!C by Color Touch. Contact your Wella account manager, call 01202 595700, visit wellaprofessionals.co.uk Creative Head
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Style with
substance Innovative, stylish and oh-so pretty, we take a closer look at Cloud Nine’s top lust-worthy tools
Cloud Nine’s vision to provide hairdressers and clients with the best tools, brushes and products came about in 2009, when inventor and former hairdresser, Robert Powls, launched the brand to change people’s perceptions of what a hair tool can do. Cloud Nine predicts the next big trends and brings to the market the tools hairdressers and customers need to create the latest looks. Here’s our pick of Cloud Nine’s fabulous tools that no salon should be without… Award-winning roller system The O (1) has changed the heated roller market and brought it firmly into the 21st century. It heats rollers sized 20mm to 60mm in just four seconds and was the first product to use induction heating.
Giving volume in seconds, The O features cool touch technology – rollers get progressively warmer in the hair but remain cool to the touch, making them easy to handle. The world’s first automatic iron, The C9 Touch (2) is ecofriendly and features mineral-infused, ultra-smooth ceramic plates to allow you to glide through hair. With no fiddly buttons, you control the temperature by touching the plates together; two touches drops the temperature to 165°C, three brings it back up to 195°C and an LED indicator tells you what temperature they’re at. It uses a fraction of power compared with other tools as it’s only on when being used – it turns off after 30 seconds of inactivity. How clever!
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Cloud Nine also has a range of irons – available in Micro, Original and Wide sizes (3) – with an innovative temperature control function to allow you to select from between 100°C and 200°C, as well as mineral-infused plates for amazing results at lower temperatures. The brand also has a range of wands featuring mineral-infused ceramic barrels and temperature controls with extra-long tapered barrels to allow flexibility to create everything from tight curls to loose waves, available in Micro (4), Original (5) and Waving (6) sizes, too. So get style with substance in your salon today – give clients the tools and technology they deserve with Cloud Nine’s incredible range of products.
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With statistics suggesting one in n are a 10 burns to childre rs ne being left result of straighte , Cloud Nine has on or unattended the Child Accident joined forces with e t (CAPT) to becom Prevention Trus ly pp su to in the UK the first company l al ith w d ar stand heat-proof mats as ty fe sa g in ly pp so su of its irons. It is al who owns a pair ne yo an to s pouche free of charge. of straighteners, ply go to To get yours, sim m and make cloudninehair.co PT. a £2 donation to CA
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For the tools you need for your salon and clients, visit cloudninehair.com. Keep up to date on Twitter ‘@CloudNineC9’ and Facebook at ‘cloudninehair’ Creative Head
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KÊrastase creates Glaçage Thermique. Our blow-dry perfector for intense protection and brilliant shine.
*Instrumental test vs classic non-rinse cream. www.kerastase.co.uk
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07/08/2014 06:00 pm
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15744 Kerastase Creative Head DPS pages.indd 2
07/08/2014 06:00 pm
EXTENSIONS
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CREATIVE HEAD
13/8/14 16:34:47
Hair: Yesmin O’Brien for Balmain Paris Hair Couture. Styling: Kate Jeffery. Make-up: Elizabeth Rita. Photography: Barry Jeffery.
strategy
called ‘the fourth service’ by salons in the know, extensions offer a boost to business – literally and figuratively. Want to identify growth potential? Let the experts help…
Creative Head
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New Advert:Layout 1 31/07/2014 09:45 Page 1
Courses:
Cold Fusion Hot Fusion Stick/Mini TipTM Tape Hair 2 Day Certified Courses from
ÂŁ895.00 (Excluding VAT)
In Salon or In Centre Training across the UK Accredited training courses tailored to deliver professional skills to help you provide various hair extension applications to new and existing clients. Our courses are delivered by professional educators that have been qualified in the hair extension industry for many years. Learn valueable skills and knowledge to progress forward in a fast growing industry.
Telephone. 01642 867213 www.remicachet.com
#Extensions The majority of British women have fine hair and want to see it given a little tszuj. Hair extensions can provide the answer, as well as a very real increase to your salon’s turnover. And the market has grown in terms of offerings as well as potential consumers – rings, tapes, bonds, weaves – which means there really is an extensions solution for every client’s hair complaint. Little wonder that, according to HMRC, the UK alone imports £15m-worth of human hair (the third largest in the world) and the extensions market as a whole is now worth an estimated £65m. And what are you doing to ensure your piece of that action? While extensions are a brilliant problem-solver for clients, they require investment in both care and money to look great. Clients might love the idea of extensions, but could need some encouragement. How can you entice them to take the plunge? If you’re not sure you want to dedicate resources to extensions, then there are quick and affordable options that allow you to dip your toe into the water. For example, Kapello Hair offers pre-taped hair extensions that can be applied in fewer than 40 minutes and give salon owners the opportunity to make a profit of more than £250 each time a client opts for pre-taped extensions. If you’re keen to maximise the potential on an extensions business, it’s vital that you can credibly market your salon as extensions experts, so training is a necessary expense. There are affordable courses on offer – American Dream provides courses from £250 that include deluxe application kits to take back to the salon, while awardwinning hairdresser Michelle Griffin runs a plethora of extensions-focused courses from £200. With prices for an extensions service running in the three figures, any education spend will soon be recouped. Could developing a hair extension expert or even a small team of specialists provide the extra revenue you need? According to one business projection by Foxy Hair Extensions, having a savvy stylist fitting one full head of 16-inch extensions a day can bring in an annual profit of nearly £40,000. This, in time, is likely to grow to two fittings a day (£80,000 a year) and so on. Electric has been quick to react to the growing trend for weft extensions, and stylists in its London and Liverpool salons have trained through the Beauty Works
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in-salon education programme for £1,500 (which covers up to eight team members). “Beauty Works weft hair extensions cost our clients just £250 for the extensions, application and styling at Electric salons,” explains creative director Mark Woolley. “We chose to specifically offer weft extensions, as this method ensures the client a fast application and long-lasting results. Our clients return to us every six to eight weeks for a maintenance appointment and we will schedule in their regular Electric cut and finish then, too.” Electric’s Liverpool salon has seen an 8 per cent increase in revenue thanks to extensions, and it took just one week to recoup the £1,500 spent on Beauty Works training. Social media is a great way to talk about the transformations you can create with existing and potential clients. “Salons that have any form of social media can easily reach the mass audience, suggesting styles, talking about what they do and how extensions can benefit them,” says Aidan Barr, general manager at hair extensions expert Sleek. Consider the looks of social media-busy celebs, too. “The use of celebrity style as an influence is also a way of marketing to clientele, especially as women are influenced by wellknown celebrity styles such as Kim Kardashian and Beyoncé.” But your extensions clients’ hair is also also your biggest promotion in the real world. “My business is based on recommendations,” admits Abigail Nicholls, who uses Remi Cachet and has recently opened her own salon – The Bijoux Boutique in Exeter. “My work has to be impeccable to keep my
Extensions service checklist Pete Statham, national sales manager for Balmain Hair, shares his top tips
● Select a reputable extensions company offering high-quality products, accredited education and written guarantees on all products. ● Depending on size of salon, select two or three staff to specialise in extensions, and include the salon owner. This will enable them to establish the dos and don’ts. ● Promote the service throughout the salon. Ensure team members are wearing extensions to illustrate colour, volume and length. ● Ensure services are on all price lists and menu cards, under relevant headings (eg as a solution for every day hair problems). Do not write ‘hair extensions on application’ – it can alienate many clients who think extensions are just for length. ● Encourage the team to talk with clients about the service and suggest change and solutions to problems, rather than waiting to be asked. ● Aftercare is vital – make sure the client understands the relevance and share details on all the products you have, and always offer a follow up appointment three weeks after application.
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Remi Cachet
#Extensions
clients coming back and as a walking advert for me. One client can generate additional income for me so long as they are a happy client.” She estimates that, depending on a salon’s overheads, profits can be anything from £100 per client for each application. According to Penny Etheridge, founder of Radiant Hair Consultancy, salons have been focused on attracting ‘high-spend clients’ to keep their businesses healthy, and that has been perceived as the 35 to 50-year-old professional woman – precisely the type of client that is now having extensions regularly. Jack Cunning, from The Park Hairdressers and Beauty in Nottingham, agrees: “Younger clients, who generally seek extensions for length, tend to search for
cheap hair. Focusing on this market can reduce your earning potential,” he explains, pointing to an existing colour client he’s had for seven years as an example of enticing that older customer. “She complained that the sides of the haircut always felt too fine. Initially I added 20 individual pre-bonded extensions to her hair, 10 on either side. This gave her the A-line bob she always desired.” Four years later she wears a full head of extensions in an ombré finish – now she has extra length, massive volume and a chemical-free colour effect all in one service. “She spends £1,500 for this every three months, including weekly blow-drys and about £100 a month on retail,” adds Jack. If clients are intrigued but worried about taking the leap, then take a leaf out of Gemma Burke’s book. “If they’re curious about trying extensions but unsure, apply five extensions so that they can see what they are like before they fully commit,” advises the master hair designer at Clipso St Albans. “I promote the idea that ‘you will make more money putting one extension in 100 clients, than by applying 100 extensions in one client’,” agrees Jack Cunning, who is also a master educator for Balmain Hair. “Adding length is great for the wow factor, but realistically most clients only ask for thickness and volume. I find discussing small applications of added hair with existing clients is a great way of getting them hooked.” When considering the revenue stream from extensions, think of it as roughly double the cost of the initial outlay for hair. “The UK market has a diverse range of extension suppliers for stylists to work with, but the prices to clients vary depending on factors including geography, the salon kudos and stylists’ skills,” explains Victoria Lynch, founder of extensions company Remi Cachet. “But the key to making this profitable lies in getting your initial pricing structure right and building in loyalty.” Many consumers may have outdated ideas of extensions that are putting them off – it’s wise to keep them in the loop on innovations and new techniques. For example, the speed of application has improved hugely in the past five years, yet some clients still think it takes hours. With Balmain Hair’s Système Volume, five integrations can be applied in 40 seconds, allowing a full volumising service to be done and dusted in just 15 minutes. And the opportunity to boost the bottom line doesn’t stop once those extensions have been secured to your client’s hair. A schedule of regular maintenance checks should be planned, which in turn encourages repeat appointments. Add to that an aftercare range specifically for extensions, and there’s more opportunity to grow your retail and increase the overall bill.
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How to make… £163
How to make… £267
How to make… £284
Service: short-term commitment for wedding hair Type: Weft hair extensions How long it lasts: eight weeks Retail salon price: £226 Trade price: £126 Application cost: £100 Maintenance appointment: eight to 10 weeks
Service: half-head for thickness and body Type: micro ring application How long it lasts: two to three months Retail salon price: £239 Trade price: £132 Application cost: £200 Maintenance appointment: six to eight weeks
Service: full head ombre hair extensions Type: pre-bonded application How long it lasts: three months Retail salon price: £299 Trade price: £165 Application cost: £200 Maintenance appointment: six to eight weeks
With thanks to Beauty Works
How to grow your profits
Creative Head
13/8/14 16:36:34
Hair: Danielle Branton for Balmain Hair
The only leading hair extension brand with true fashion heritage the professional partner of choice Free HABIA Certified Education • 6 Month Quailty Guarantee • Extensive Product Portfolio Shop Online www.balmainhair.com/ukwebshop www.balmainhair.com • 0800 781 0936 • BalmainHairUK
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15/01/2014 15:04
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Hair by Richard Phillipart for American Dream. Photography by Matthew Stansfield.
EXTENSIONS
A PIECE OF THE ACTION CLIP IT IN, STYLE IT UP, TAKE IT HOME – ‘INSTANT STYLE AND SELL’ HAIR PIECES ARE OFFERING SALONS A RETAIL REVOLUTION, PARTICULARLY IN THE RUN-UP TO CHRISTMAS. HAVE YOUR CLIENTS GOT THEIR FIX?
BUN LOOKING A BIT WISPY, a little lopsided? Fingers cramping from attempts to fashion a fabulous fishtail plait? Clients are rarely the savvy stylers they need to be to get the same finishes that their trusted stylist can whip up in the salon, try as they might. They may also crave what nature has just not delivered – longer locks for the perfect ponytail, or the magical disappearance of an energysapping cow’s lick that rules out the possibility of a strong, sharp fringe. So imagine the triumphant joy a client can feel if they can just buy the perfect pony, the bountiful bun, the fabulous fringe, or the prettiest of plaits. To wear when they want, matched to their hair shade – all following expert tutoring from their salon BFF. This is hair happiness in a heartbeat, and a fresh retail income stream for you. “Temporary extensions offer salon owners great profit
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margins with zero application time. The potential for retail is huge; everyone is looking for that quick fix and they offer clients the look they are after without the commitment,” admits Richard Phillipart, American Dream ambassador and owner of The Boutique Salon & Spa in Cheshire. Innovation has meant that the pieces on offer now are better than ever – they look real, are easy for clients to add-on, are more affordable, can be heat styled, and the variety just keeps on growing. “The Instant Bun took ages to develop as I wanted to get the look right, so that it looked natural and didn’t look too ‘done’,” explains Jas Sahney, commercial director at American Dream. “Before it was invented, you’d need to use loads of clip-ins to achieve that kind of volume and style on a temporary basis.” “I believe it’s about making extensions more accessible. Before, only rich people could have quality hair extensions
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#Extensions
In a flash
Michaela Horner, Flawless Luxe in Coventry
“I have very fine hair and have been wearing Ready to Wear pieces from Balmain Paris Hair Couture for several years now. All my stylists wear different pieces to show the versatility of the range. I give personal consultations and my clients are absolutely wowed by the instant transformation, not just for special occasions but for every day – I promote them as ‘the end of bad hair days’. Our clients are always stunned by how inexpensive such top quality hair is and I’m happy as I make 50 per cent profit on the Ready to Wear range. “The fringe is a huge seller in our salon – great for trialling a fringe before committing to the cut and many of our clients still don’t have the fringe cut in as the added hair stays perfect looking and doesn’t require constant trimming. “We also use the Hair Make-up range for adding colour without chemicals – so we often use the pieces to promote our other services to nervous clients. “We’re planning a client evening pre-Christmas to show party styles using the Balmain Hair range, with several models showcasing the pieces and we’ll show step-by-steps on the styles. These evenings are always a huge success and a great way to promote this service further.”
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or achieve high fashion looks,” adds Jas. “Now, high quality, temporary extensions are accessible to every age group and individual because they’re so affordable. Everyone can try a new look whether it’s to make a fashion statement or just to change up their style every now and then.” Of course, this is all perfect timing for the upcoming Christmas party season, and as potential gifts for fashion-forward friends and family members. What’s also kicking off is the new season of X Factor, an enormous style influence on the younger market who see contestants styled up by Jamie Stevens and his team (and also admire the tresses of judges such as Cheryl Fernandez-Versini) and want to be able to recreate those looks at home. These change on a weekly basis, and the audience is keen to switch it up, too. “You’d think they’d be all about the music, but everyone focuses on how to achieve the X Factor looks. It’s not just the clothes; it’s fashion from head to toe,” adds Jas. “So we’re providing salons with the opportunity to sell this to the consumer to enable them to follow these trends.” But it’s not just about trends – instant pieces are a short cut to great hair, so are everyday problem solvers. “We encourage our clients to wear them on the days when you don’t have the time (or the inclination) to style your hair. Just pop one on and go,” says Katie Katon from George’s Hairdressing in Leicestershire. “We make sure all our stylists are able to offer their clients an alternative style to their normal blow wave – this always includes one of the many instant hair pieces we retail. Our clients love the Balmain Hair Ready to Wear that we stock.” It’s the in-salon style tips that are fundamental to real success – show clients what can be achieved quickly (and easily) and the sale becomes much easier. Often, stylists can also draw on their experiences from backstage work, shoots and shows, where quick fixes can always be found in a stylist’s kit bag. “We have worked with Hairaisers both backstage and for photoshoots, but have recently added services for our clients, using its products,”
How to clip in The Fringe from Balmain Hair
Creative Head
13/8/14 16:41:56
100% REMY HUMAN HAIR GUARANTEED
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#Extensions
Instant replay Quick-fix styles for the salon
explains Adam Reed, co-owner of Percy & Reed. “Its clip-in range of extensions has really taken off in our salons as a retail product but also as a salon service as it provides the client with freedom to instantly change their style. We find that the full service, where the extensions can be personalised, becomes the most popular choice once we educate the client on the benefits of this.” Yet while affordability can be a key incentive, sometimes it’s the personal touch – and the fact that a piece can be reused – that makes all the difference with clip-in and temporary extensions. Penny Etheridge, founder of Radiant Hair Consultancy, cites Nathan Brown from Evolution Hair in Hanwell, a hair extensions specialist who has a salon clientele with predominantly afro hair. He has seen a sharp rise in the amount of bespoke pieces he is making for his customers. “I had a client who came in with the hair she wanted made into a piece, she went to the gym and when she came back it was ready and waiting for her,” says Nathan. “I charge on average £50 for a handmade piece and they take around half an hour to do so it’s a market that I’m keen to promote. Currently I’m making about five pieces a week and at £50 per half an hour’s work it’s a very time-efficient service for the salon.” Indeed, Neville’s in London’s Belgravia offers a bespoke hair extension service where each client is colour matched. Stylist Paolo Liu makes and blends bespoke clip-in hair extensions using Beauty Works GOLD double weft hair extensions. The price point reflects that it’s all about that personal touch, with prices starting from £350 per client. And once they pop (on), they can’t stop! “When you’ve tried a temporary solution, clients may be more likely to create a hair wardrobe for themselves, collecting more and more temporary extensions and being open to try out new things,” adds Jas. “They’ll want to keep that look for the odd day and play around with different looks so it’s potentially a gateway to being more experimental with their style.”
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The Do-It-All A truly versatile piece, this starts as a ponytail but discreet cords mean clients can use it for limitless styles. Hair Addition by American Dream (RRP from £34.95) 020 8998 9840/ americandream extensions.com
The Bun Totally natural-looking and available in four variations, from hipster ballet top knot to TOWIE crowning glory! Size matters… Instant Bun by American Dream (RRP from £24.95) 020 8998 9840/americandreamextensions.com
The Length
The Plait
A clear strand keeps the Hair Dress in place, and this one piece offers two options – layered Sunrise or darker blend Sunset. Hair Dress by Balmain Hair (RRP £124.95) 0800 781 0936/ balmainhair.com
Pretty much all girls can do a simple braid, but the fishtail finish is a slippery sucker to master. So let your clients cheat in seconds with this! 22˝ Chunky Clip-In Fishtail Braid by Beauty Works (RRP £29.99) 0845 289 5198/ beautyworksonline.com
The Colour Pop Let clients try the dip-dye trend without committing. Ombre Deluxe ClipIn by Beauty Works (RRP from £124.99) 0845 289 5198/ beautyworksonline.com
The Pony Available in two styles, these swishy wonders use Velcro and can be mussed or smoothed, standing up to 200˚C heat. How will your clients wear theirs? Couture Velcro Ponytail by Sleek Hair (RRP £11) 020 8502 7448/sleek.co.uk
The Fringe Got a client who wants a fringe but just can’t bring herself to lop off the inches? Offer this! Clip-in fringe by Balmain Hair (RRP £16.95) 0800 781 0936/balmainhair.com
Creative Head
18/8/14 16:11:49
T H E G R E AT F E E L I N G O F
...Remy Couture Hair Extensions by Sleek!
Sleek’s Remy Couture is the ultimate selection for those looking for soft, luxurious and full of life locks. • Real Remy Hair • Cuticle aligned • Soft and luxurious, quality guaranteed • Remains beautiful wash after wash
HAIR BY CRAIG CHAPMAN FOR SLEEK
P H OTO G R A P H E R B A R R Y J E F F R E Y
For stockist details contact Sleek on 020 8502 7448 or www.sleek.co.uk
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Offer your clients party-perfect presents and boost your profits this festive season with American Dream
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Left: model wears Loop Duo in shade 60/LPink. This page: model wears Instant Bun in medium, shade 1B
EVERY YEAR it’s the same – you’ve barely packed away your summer retail displays before you have to start thinking about Christmas. But while the festive season seems to come along earlier each year, it pays to get ahead. The extension experts from American Dream have got it all wrapped up for salons, providing the products and packaging people want and the displays to drive sales and boost profits. Accessories have traditionally been hard to sell, but American Dream’s bun and loop duos prove popular due to them being so easy to use – the loop duo has an invisible wire that you simply pop onto your head – meaning they’ll give you the perfect profit boost. So get in there first – the Christmas countdown clock truly starts ticking from October, so ensure you’re first to tempt your clients with terrific party pieces that will get them fabulous in a flash! Beautifully boxed, these are red-hot retail packs that have been tried and tested and are always sellouts, so make sure they’re on your shelves this Christmas. In fact, these accessories are so popular American Dream sends them to salons daily – everybody wants them! And because American Dream wants it to be a cracking Christmas for all involved, there are plenty of holiday extras for the salon owner. So with American Dream end you’ve got proven, easy-to-sell retail items, beautiful If you sp y retail n a n o 0 £50 gift packaging and a lovely stand to display it all ou would items (y ve to spend on. What are you waiting for? Guarantee a happy a h y ll norma ou’ll get a free Christmas in your salon, now! £800), y nd and colour floor sta orth £165! ring, w
STOCKINGS AT THE READY… THE INSTANT BUN (RRP FROM £24.95) PERFECT FOR: fashionistas, perfectionists, high-maintenance high flyers. Made from luxurious 100 per cent human hair, this is for the perfect up-do in moments, with a soft unstructured finish that looks gorgeously natural. It’s available in four sizes so each gift can be perfectly personalised!
THE LOOP DUO (RRP FROM £79.99) PERFECT FOR: experimentalists, the commitment-phobic. These twice-as-nice pieces are dual coloured, premium, 100 per cent Remi human hair. The lightweight ultra-flat weft pieces don’t put pressure on the roots of hair and are easy to apply!
Get ready for your best Christmas ever with American Dream. To request a salon visit or brochure, call 020 8998 9840 or visit americandreamextensions.com CREATIVE HEAD
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A state of luxe
Now clients can enjoy luxuriously soft hair no matter where they are, with the travel-sized version of the ever-popular SP LuxeOil LUXURIOUS, OPULENT and gorgeously sumptuous – SP LuxeOil offers a quality yet lightweight answer to transforming dry, dull hair. Already a huge success since its launch in 2012, SP LuxeOil is branching out to offer clients the chance to take a little bit of Luxe with them with new SP LuxeOil in 30ml travel size. Clients in need of a little more TLC? Maybe their summer holiday went straight to their strands? If so, the SP LuxeOil collection can help. The LuxeOil collection, featuring Keratin Protection Shampoo, Keratin Restore Mask, Keratin Boost Essence, Light Oil Keratin Protection Spray and the hero of the range, LuxeOil, is a light and non-greasy way to transform your client’s hair’s texture while protecting, smoothing and softening, to leave hair nourished and hydrated with a weightless finish. The formula – with a fusion of reconstructive ingredients including hydrating almond oil; jojoba oil, suitable for the dry ends of hair; and argan oil, famed for its nourishing properties – helps provide keratin protection and aids in strengthening the hair from the inside out. The SP LuxeOil collection provides clients with a daily regime to achieve glamorous and healthy-looking hair – it’s the light way to transform hair.
New!
KELLY SMALL, SENIOR SALON DIRECTOR FOR REFLECTIONS IN BRISTOL, REVEALS WHAT SHE LOVES MOST ABOUT THE SP LUXEOIL RANGE Creative HEAD: What do you love most about SP LuxeOil and the range?
Kelly Small: The SP LuxeOil is gloss in a bottle and offers our clients the chance to achieve the look of a salon blow-dry at home. I also love that LuxeOil helps improve the look and feel of the hair.
CH: What do clients love most about the range?
KS: Clients always mention how much they like the smell, which is sweet and uplifting, it lingers on the hair for hours. It also offers great value for money as you only need a small amount so one bottle will last and last.
CH: Is SP LuxeOil easy to sell once clients have used it?
KS: We finish nearly every service with the SP LuxeOil and find that once a client sees the results themselves, more often than not they will go on to purchase.
CH: Would you recommend the range to other salons?
KS: LuxeOil has has really boosted our sales. It has filled a gap in the market and has become one of our best-selling products. I would recommend it to any salon.
Want to get the SP LuxeOil collection in your salon? Speak to your Wella account manager or call 01202 595700 82
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Creative Head
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IN ASSOCIATION WITH
THINNING HAIR
In fine company With so many women concerned about thinning hair, salons that offer solutions can really boost their income. But how do you start that sensitive conversation? We investigate how to effectively and knowledgably talk to clients about hair loss THERE AREN’T MANY THINGS clients are unwilling to talk to their hairdresser about, but hair thinning is one of them. It remains one of hair’s last taboos as clients often ignore it. But, according to Nioxin, 31 per cent of women aged 25 to 30 worry about hair loss or thinning. There are dozens of causes of female hair loss, from hormonal imbalances to nutritional deficiencies, according to Mark Blake from Mark Blake Trichology. “The reasons for hair thinning vary, from women living a more stressful lifestyle to fad or crash diets,” says Mark, adding that as much as 80 per cent of women will experience some form of hair loss by the age of 60. And the side effects cannot be understated. “Ask any doctor if hair loss affects the body physically and they will say no, but ask the sufferer if it has affected them psychologically and they will tell you it can rob you of your confidence, self-esteem and even change how you view yourself,” says trichologist Iain Sallis. As a trusted stylist, you’re in a prime position to advise your clients on hair loss and thinning, but how do you begin the conversation? “Whatever you do, do not mention it out of the blue,” warns Iain. “Asking Mrs Jones ‘So, what are you doing about your thinning hair then?’ when up until this point she has never given hair volume a second thought will earn you one less client by the end of the cut!”
CREATIVE HEAD
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THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF HAIR LOSS AND THINNING IN WOMEN CROHN’S DISEASE DIABETES IRON DEFICIENCY POOR DIET POST-PREGNANCY PSORIASIS THYROID IMBALANCE TOO MUCH EXERCISE TAKE HOME TIP!
Clients should avoid products containing silicones. Why? “Silicone is designed to cover up poor hair condition. When used with high-temperature styling tools, silicone will eject moisture from hair, leading to dehydration, brittleness and breakage,” says Andrew Bidwell of Swell Hair. 85
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#ThinningHair
*Figures courtesy of Nioxin and Aveda Invati
Gary Taylor, of Edward & Co salon in West Yorkshire, offers a separate area of his salon for clients, as well as an after-hours service. “I made the service bookable on the website with a discreet email option for anyone with concerns,” says Gary. Mark Blake advises you begin the conversation with questions such as ‘Have you noticed your hair has lost volume recently, or noticed a change in density or condition?’ He explains: “An honest and compassionate approach by a knowledgeable stylist who can give sound advice will always have a better reaction than an alarmed approach.” This means the stylist has to be educated in the causes, effects and solutions – in the following pages we’ll tell you everything you need to know about hair loss and thinning, from the cuts and colours to the products that can help.
HAIR THINNING IN NUMBERS*
29 per cent of women in the UK have suffered from
hair loss or thinning, while 63 per cent of women aged 45-54 experience hair thinning
31 per cent of women aged 25 to 35 worry about hair thinning
30 per cent of women aged 55 or more said their hair was not as thick as they’d like
40 per cent of women aged 45 to 54 said that
WHEN COLOURING, COMBAT HAIR THINNING BY:
TAKE HOME TIP!
No matter the cause of the thinning, the remaining hair needs looking after. “Advise clients to not be too vigorous when towel-drying hair. Firmly pat rather than rub and invest in a good intensive treatment once a week,” says Jayne Prigent of Jas Hair.
physical stress contributed to their hair thinning
21per cent of women rank hair loss and thinning as the subject they find most sensitive to talk about
70 per cent of women would find a style to disguise thinning 70 per cent of women admit a bad hair day knocks their
KEEPING HIGH LIFT BLONDE SHADES AWAY FROM THE FRINGE MIXING IT UP WITH HIGH AND LOW LIGHTS
COLOURING THE ROOTS AT LEAST ONE SHADE DARKER
WHEN CUTTING AND STYLING, COMBAT HAIR THINNING BY: TRYING BLUNT CUTS CUTTING IN A SWEEPING FRINGE
confidence and 41 per cent say it affects how sexy and
GOING SHORT
having a bad hair day changes the way people look at them
CHANGING THE PARTING
attractive they feel, while 47 per cent of women surveyed think
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CREATIVE HEAD
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79% of women found
their hair looked and felt fuller for fine,thinning hair A holistic volumizing hair & scalp regime For all enquiries contact Philip Kingsley Products Ltd. Tel: +44 207 237 7100 | Email: retail@philipkingsleyproducts.com www.philipkingsley.co.uk * Results of an independent panel of 94 women using the Trichotherapy Regime daily for 12 weeks
*
Full of confidence
THINNING HAIR
Thicker, fuller-looking hair starts in the salon, which is why NIOXIN has launched Therapies – to help set your clients on the Journey to Confidence
The three new NIOXIN Therapies are: HAIR THINNING is affecting more and more people. It’s hard to grasp how drastically it can affect someone until it happens, but the loss of confidence can never be underestimated. In a bid to boost clients’ wellbeing and give them thicker, fuller-looking hair, NIOXIN has introduced three new services – the NIOXIN Therapies – as part of its Journey to Confidence campaign. NIOXIN Therapy starts with the normal NIOXIN threestep regime, using one of the six NIOXIN System Kits. Step one involves specialist cleansing for hair and scalp to remove sebum, residue and pollution. Step two conditions and helps protect the hair, which helps reduce hair loss due to breakage, and step three optimises hair by thickening each strand for a fuller look. You can then offer your client one of the three new NIOXIN Therapies as a way of offering a complete and holistic offering to thinning hair and to further boost your salon’s business.
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DERMA Scalp Renew Therapy This removes dead skin cells and excess sebum, helping to accelerate scalp surface skin regeneration
Product used NIOXIN Scalp Renew Dermabrasion Treatment Time taken It’s a five-minute application time and then 10 minutes for development
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“The NIOXIN services are a great addition to help boost your business and clients will love the difference to how their hair and scalp feels”
MARILYN SHERLOCK, CHAIRWOMAN, INSTITUTE OF TRICHOLOGISTS
*Based on a scalp with an average of 100,000 hairs, versus no treatment
KAY MCINTYRE, EDUCATION AMBASSADOR, NIOXIN UK AND IRELAND
“Having thicker, fuller-looking hair gives people such a boost – you really notice the difference when someone feels great about themselves”
DENSITY Protect Therapy This helps to reduce hair breakage and restore a dense and vibrant appearance to hair Product used NIOXIN Scalp Renew Density Protect Time taken Simply leave enough time to cover the client’s scalp
DIAMETER Boost Therapy This increases the diameter of your client’s hair instantly and thickens hair from the roots, so that it’s as though your client has 11,000 more hair strands* Product used NIOXIN Diaboost Time taken The time it normally takes for you to blow-dry
To offer NIOXIN services in your salon, contact your Wella account manager or visit nioxin.co.uk
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THINNING HAIR
“A bad hair day can really affect someone’s confidence, so seeing the difference that NIOXIN can make is great” We sat down with Kay McIntyre, owner of Dundee’s McIntyres and NIOXIN UK and Ireland education ambassador, to discuss how NIOXIN has increased her client loyalty, attracted new clients and boosted her retail revenue Creative HEAD: Why does your salon use NIOXIN? Kay McIntyre: Hair thinning is a real concern for both men and women. There is a growing demand for cosmetic solutions that can help deliver thicker, fuller-looking hair, which is why we started at looking at ways to help our clients who were experiencing this. When you use a product that delivers like NIOXIN and your client can feel the difference, they’ll come back time and time again.
difference is so convincing, therefore, the NIOXIN system kit is really popular as it allows a client to continue their NIOXIN experience back home after a service. It also has a money back guarantee, which is really reassuring for clients. This has really helped drive the retail side of our business.
CH: What are you doing with NIOXIN that makes a difference to your client’s experience in-salon?
CH: What has the reaction been to NIOXIN services from
KM: An in-depth consultation is key – our consultations are
staff and clients? KM: Clients love that it’s a pampering treat as it gives your client’s hair and scalp much-needed TLC. It’s really good that the three new services all offer something different based on your client’s needs. A bad hair day can really affect your confidence, so, from a stylist’s perspective, seeing the difference that a NIOXIN consultation can make is great.
aided by the NIOXIN Nioscope, which allows you to see a client’s hair and scalp magnified 200 times. It can zoom in to such detail that it allows the stylist and your client to see the effects of a NIOXIN service before and after, which adds to your client’s experience and understanding of their hair and scalp. This allows us to give them tips and advice on things such as hair breakage for example.
CH: How has NIOXIN helped build your business and how
CH: Is their anything you’re offering at McIntyres to help
have the new services helped? KM: NIOXIN offers our clients something different that helps to meet a specific need or concern. When a client has a NIOXIN treatment or service, they get the complete experience along with a relaxing massage. Feeling the
improve the client experience of NIOXIN?
KM: We have a private area for more sensitive clients who may not want to discuss specific concerns in public. We also often use NIOXIN Diaboost when blow-drying to help give extra volume as it increases the thickness of hair strands.
To offer NIOXIN services in your salon, contact your Wella account manager or visit nioxin.co.uk
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#ThinningHair
Five ways to fight the thin See what your salon can concentrate on to boost your business with those suffering from hair thinning issues
IN-SALON SERVICES
“Hair is extracted and placed under the Partnering with a trichologist is a microscope. This allows the specialist to natural add-on to a hair salon and better understand what may be causing trichologist Mark Blake hosts regular the hair loss,” says Sandra Kear, head of events in salons up and down the education for La Biosthétique. country. “The business of a professional Meanwhile, L’Oréal Professionnel specialist in hair loss being on hand to a is launching Serioxyl, a scalp detox salon group couldn’t have worked better. treatment designed to combat thinning In the first half of my business hair and create density, with serums year, I saw more than 180 that can be taken home, too. clients with about three COLOUR to five referrals from Colouring hair will always salons per week,” “Advise clients to tie their make it look thicker, but says Mark. hair up before going to bed as is there a certain shade Another option this protects against split ends you should or shouldn’t is to look to your and other hair damage,” says use? “The best colours for partner brand to Matthew Curtis of Matthew people with thinning hair find out what it Curtis Hair Design. are usually lighter shades, offers in terms of as the hair then contrasts less backwash services. with the scalp,” says trichologist Nioxin has just launched Philip Kingsley. “Also, highlights can three new in-salon services as plump individual strands and give the a way of offering a complete solution appearance of more body.” to thinning hair. Daniel Gray, brand “Skin tone will play an important part manager for Nioxin UK and Ireland, in deciding colour options,” says Neil says: “Many of our Nioxin salons offer Shaw from Achille salon group. “Bleach a ‘before and after’ snapshot of the can affect hair condition and, if hair scalp using the Nioscope – a tool that is already fine, it can exacerbate that. stylists and trichologists can use to see However, a full head of bleach on short a client’s hair and scalp 200 times in live hair can have the opposite effect.” magnified detail. Being able to see and Warren Boodaghians, European feel the difference encourages clients technical creative director for TIGI, to come back.” adds: “Deeper shades create strength La Biosthétique provides salons with a portable digital microscope that can be and density, red promotes texture and blondes can create soft movement to attached to a laptop or iPad to allow the give an illusion of increased volume.” client to see their scalp in more detail.
TAKE HOME TIP!
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But are there times when colour shouldn’t be used and can the brand you choose make a difference? “We always advocate being conservative with colour when hair is prone to thinning, as taking hair to extremes with colour may lead to damage,” says Tasha Stevens from Jamie Stevens.
CUTTING AND STYLING When it comes to cutting, it’s about misdirection. “Redirecting the way we cut the hair may help disguise any thinning areas, such as moving the parting so more hair travels over any thinning bits,” says Gary Taylor of Edward & Co. “It may be that the hair is thinning generally so a shorter haircut could be the answer.” However, Jamie Stevens advises caution, especially when it comes to layering. He says: “While layering can help to create a fuller look on finer hair, avoid accentuating this by having lots of layering that will reduce the weight and thickness of the hair even further.” When it comes to styling, thickening products are the “obvious choice”, says Neil Shaw from Achille. “Anything with ingredients such as sea salt, ginger and cotton complex will add volume.” “I would recommend clients minimise the amount their hair is subjected to heating and drying procedures, which can lead to brittle, fragile hair,” says Jamie Stevens.
CREATIVE HEAD
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Performance.
HAIR AT ITS NATURAL BEST; IT’S A PROMISE WE CAN DELIVER As well as treating thinning hair and hair loss, the specialist shampoos, conditioners and treatments in the DS Laboratories range give every client, whatever their age and issues, the opportunity to maintain hair that looks its natural best. Ask your DS Laboratories sales consultant for details about how to become a Lifestyle Centre. As featured in the best selling consumer magazine Dr. Christian Jessen’s ‘Ask the Doctor’.
To register your interest in DS laboratories contact t.+44 (0)1282 613413 enquiries@iconteam.co.uk. visit: dslaboratories.co.uk DS Laboratories
#ThinningHair
“I suggest they dry naturally where possible and when they do need to apply heat to the hair, always use a protective spray.” OSiS+ Blow & Go Thick by Schwarzkopf Professional protects hair from heat damage and adds volume without any sticky residue, while Sexy Hair’s Get Layered hairspray dries immediately onto individual strands, meaning you can build on it without weighing it down. “When using styling products, the key is to not weigh the hair down as this can make thin hair stand out even more,” says Ainsley Quarmby from Clipso Watford. “Keep it simple and don’t overload the hair.” Catwalk Bodifying Spray by TIGI is another hero product for clients looking for volume and hold without making hair look sticky or dull. “When hair is thin, it’s important to use products that give volume,” says Nick Irwin, global creative director for TIGI. “A perfect, voluminous blow-dry is all about creating full body at the roots and a long-lasting, natural-looking finish.”
Take home products This is a tricky one as thinking of people with thinning hair purely as a retail opportunity is bad customer service. “People with thinning hair can be an easy target, but they’ll see a sales pitch a mile away so you need to be totally straight with them,” says trichologist Iain Sallis. With 50 per cent of women willing to use thickening products to help them avoid hair loss or thinning, this is a key area for retail revenue growth. So how do you go about choosing the right brand? Zane Lewis, from Zane Lewis Hairdressing in Cheshire, chose DS Laboratories for his salon after trialling it himself. “I suffer from alopecia when I’m stressed and when I was introduced to the brand, I wanted to try it on myself first and I thought it was great,” he explains.
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The introduction of DS Laboratories into his salon also had the unexpected outcome of seeing more men come in and buy products. “Men are more focused on their image these days and they like to have a product that they see as just for them,” he says. The products come with a money-back guarantee and this is the real selling point for clients, claims Zane. “We had to order additional stock after just two months.” Nioxin is another brand that offers a money-back guarantee on its 30-day system kits, and it’s a “great way to establish a trust between the client and the professional hair care on offer”, says Natasha Grossman, area manager for HOB Salons. “For every 100 clients that purchase Nioxin, 70 per cent come back to the salon to purchase again.” Another option is to follow the trichologist route. Philip Kingsley is a trichologist brand with more than 100 years’ worth of combined clinical experience. The three-step daily regime tackles hair loss from an internal as well as external perspective, containing stimulating scalp drops, a thickening and strengthening protein spray and nutritional supplements. “If you employ services and products for thinning hair that you believe in, sales will really boost themselves,” says founder Philip Kingsley. For those looking for a more natural approach, Swell Hair’s formulas are 97 per cent natural and will add immediate volume, strengthening hair, reducing shedding by up to 50 per cent and encouraging new and improved hair growth. Invati by Aveda is another option. Rooted in Ayurvedic medicine, Invati uses a system of 97 per cent naturally derived products that reduces hair loss by 33 per cent. “The Invati range is one of our bestsellers,” says Sam Bell, from Hair at 58 in Bristol. “Many of our clients report the challenge of thinning hair and this is often related to stress in their lives. They get good results from using the three-step regime and report back to us that the range ‘actually works’, which is brilliant. Repeat sales are also very high so it keeps our retail revenues up.”
Supplements While still not the most common method in battling hair thinning, supplements are gaining traction. Philip Kingsley, as already mentioned, offers dietary supplements, and Phyto and Viviscal Professional both offer supplements designed to aid hair growth. Viviscal Professional is only sold through salons and is the secret behind many an A-lister’s follically blessed hair (Gwyneth Paltrow swears by it). It works in four stages over a six-month period, and combines AminoMar C with biotin and apple extract to fortify and promote healthy hair growth from the inside. “We have had a significant level of interest in Viviscal since stocking the supplements and my clients that are committed to taking the supplement are seeing excellent results,” says Mark Leeson, from Mark Leeson Hair, Body and Mind in Nottingham. “On average, sales from Viviscal Professional are contributing to about 30 per cent of our retail sales and we expect this to increase further.”
Creative Head
18/8/14 16:15:29
THICKER, FULLER-LOOKING HAIR STARTS IN THE SALON
Introducing Nioxin Therapy – 5 new Nioxin services to help promote thicker, fuller-looking hair. To find out more about Nioxin’s New Services, please contact your Wella Account Manager or visit Nioxin.co.uk
“We keep our feet on the ground – we style everyone from the bingo player to the millionaire” 96
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PROFILE
Yes, there’s big hair and big names, but beyond all the glitter and glamour, the Royston Blythe salon group is a successful business that’s celebrating its 25th anniversary with a huge party and a gritty new photographic collection. We talk Bentleys, Katie Price and Coronation Street with founders Royston Blythe and Nick Malenko Creative Head
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#RoystonBlythe
Creative HEAD: How are your 25th
making that client look and feel great and want to come back to you and your salon.
anniversary plans coming along? Royston Blythe: We’re having a massive celebration around November that will involve both new and old clients. It’s going to be a 400-strong party!
CH: You’ve styled a variety of famous people including Mickey Rourke, Katy Perry and Jackie Collins – do you have a favourite client? RB: I never have favourites. A Russian client once offered to fly me to every port she stopped in for a cut and colour as she sailed around the world on her yacht – but I said I couldn’t as I’ve got a busy salon to run! While we do a lot of celebrity parties still, we like to be in the salon. NM: It’s the variety and the unknown I love. There’s always something new to discover. I love being on the salon floor but also not knowing what’s going to happen next – you could be on the salon floor one moment and then the next on a private jet going to an island to style a celebrity.
CH: How did your first salon come about? Nick Malenko: We were almost pushed into it. We’d been working in a salon together in Wolverhampton and we were the busiest stylists there. The guy who owned the salon got a bit jealous, so we decided to move on. One of my clients had a dress shop and she said she knew that the person who owned a shop next to her wanted to leave so we went and did the deal with them and opened up the next day. When we took the shop in 1989 it was a dumpy little space and we just cleared it out and got on with it. But the biggest learning curve has been learning how to figure out what people really want. The main priority is looking after your clients.
CH: How did you get started doing celebrity hair?
RB: I started doing celebrities’ hair at the
CH: What’s the key to your success? NM: The real success is that we’re based in the Midlands, although we had a London salon for three years. We keep our feet on the ground – we style everyone from the bingo player to the millionaire. RB: I’m still very down to earth – I’m not up myself and I don’t behave like a prima donna. I’m no different to how I was 20 years ago when I drove a Morris Minor, I now drive a Bentley but it’s just the car that’s different. We both work in the salons full-time – five days a week and two days out of the salon – travelling all over the world for L’Oréal Professionnel and so on. Nick’s always been more on the artistic side and I do the actual management. NM: We both love our jobs – it’s true. I will have been in hairdressing 40 years this year and I’m always happy to go to work. If you’re happy, the motivation is there. To do hairdressing, you’ve got to really like it and like people. And we have younger people in the salon, which keeps you on the ball. The main thing about being a successful hairdresser is remembering what it’s all about. It’s standing behind the chair and
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local theatre as I was good friends with the manager. From there I started to do bigger celebrities and then the weddings came in, including Katie Price and Peter Andre’s – it was the maddest day, when she was in her heyday. Her hair was easy for me as I like to create quite glamorous hair. She wanted the bigger the better, which is fine with me!
CH: You opened a salon in The Dorchester hotel, but sold it after three years. What was your reasoning behind the decision? RB: The Dorchester salon was for our celebrity clients but it didn’t really work as they either wanted us at photoshoots or in their home. But we met some great people – Tamara Ecclestone at the time was the face of our brand and we’re still great friends with her. Ian Carmichael [who earned a Royal Warrant for tending the Queen’s tresses while working at the salon] moved to Trevor Sorbie when we sold it. Pictured from top to bottom: Nick with Claire Caudwell, Nick and Royston, Nick with Coleen Rooney, Royston with Kelly Brook, Royston with Peter Andre
CH: You have been together in life for three decades, and business for 25 years. There must have been the odd dispute… RB: Not really, and never in the salon. If we
CREATIVE HEAD
14/8/14 11:46:25
blondes have more fun
@chillukhair
chillukhair
www.chill.uk.com
chillukhair
“Our new collection Is nothing like we normally do – it’s very cutting edge. We like to change direction as we’re moving on all the time.” 100 102
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“we wanted to show we’re not one-trick ponies. It isn’t like our past work. It’s raw, urban and shot in black and white.”
Hair by Nick Malenko and Sophie Beattie for Royston Blythe. Styling by Bernard Connolly. Photography by Richard Miles.
#RoystonBlythe
Creative Head
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Hair by Nick Malenko for Royston Blythe. Styling by Bernard Connolly. Photography by Richard Miles.
#RoystonBlythe
have any disagreements, we always make sure we wait until we’re at home, or in the car on the way home. Together we’re a great strength. It can be hard, but we’re very busy all day as both of our columns are fully booked so we very rarely actually get to speak to each other! NM: Royston’s key strength is his personality. He’s great with staff and clients – he’s got a kind of sixth sense that sees things others can’t.
CH: How do you maintain a healthy work/life balance?
RB: By having a good social life, having a dog and cat and a lovely home. We’re very good mates. We never do anything without asking each other. You have to compromise. NM: We don’t have a lot of spare time as we go out a lot – we always seem to be doing something and it’s always a bit work-related, but to relax we’d probably be staying in, sitting on the couch with the dog and stuffing ourselves with chocolate while watching Coronation Street!
CH: You have salons in Wolverhampton and Shrewsbury. Any plans to open more?
RB: I don’t think so – we travel a lot doing education, which I enjoy. We also do Fashion Week, but I think we’ll be doing more education. Oh, and we’ve changed our image with our new collection. NM: We don’t really have plans – we’re very much ‘fly by the seat of our pants’ type of people! That’s the way we are and it’s worked for us.
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Creative Head
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Finding the one Partnering with the perfect colour brand can transform not just your clients but your own career and creativity! Jason Welch of JOICO salon Eleven Hair in London, tells us why he made the switch to JOICO
Creative HEAD: How does JOICO Vero K-Pak Color System help you creatively? Jason Welch: It gives me endless creativity; it really puts the art back into creating beautiful, bespoke colour. The beauty of using a pure tone colour palette ensures predictable results every time, which as a colourist is vital.
CH: But how does it perform? JW: Never before have I used a colour with such amazing benefits. The colour has the JOICO hero Quadramine Complex incorporated into it so it actually reconstructs as it colours. Hair is left with such amazing shine and strength, I love the intensity and longevity of the red shades, richness of the brunette, and the softness of the blonde!
CH: And what do your clients think? JW: Clients always say their hair looks and feels better! They’re also sharing with me how much longer their hair keeps that ‘fresh from the salon’ feel – I couldn’t ask for more.
CH: Has the switch to JOICO helped business, too? JW: There’s been a significant increase in our colour sales. From a stock point of view, as JOICO Vero K-Pak Color System has an intermixable palette we are able to keep the inventory down. From a customer point of view, we’ve seen a significant increase in colour client referrals.
CH: Colourists love to learn – does JOICO education measure up? JW: It’s second to none! JOICO has a lot of colour-focused education – its new programme, Salon I-Deas by JOICO, is inspirational as it really is aimed at the salon hairdresser. Its beauty is in the adaptability of all the looks.
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Jason s … JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner – it’s ideal for high-maintenance colour clients for maximum colour protection. JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Restorative Styling Oil – it seals and nourishes coloured hair, adding shine and reducing drying time. JOICO Color Endure Treatment Masque – the perfect mask to nourish and protect hair. It’s especially great for those who love to swim or enjoy a lot of sun. JOICO K-Pak Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor – no bathroom cabinet should be without it. JOICO Vero K-Pak Chrome – in just 20 minutes customers can have strong, healthy, shiny hair with this vibrant demi colour.
Want to join the JOICO family and enjoy a world of possibilities? For more information, call 0845 071 2326 or visit joicoeurope.com Creative Head
106-107_Joico.indd 3
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OTION CREATIVE HEAD PROM
Love the drama? Let your clients be the centre of attention with OSMO’s styling and finishing range CLIENTS CAN CREATE their own drama with the styling and finishing range from OSMO. Its 12-strong line-up has everything they need for a look that’s so full of attitude it’ll grab all the headlines. For beach-worthy tresses (September’s still summer, right?), use OSMO’s Matt Sea Spray, or transform hair with OSMO’s Blow Dry Potion, designed to thicken and hold all styles. Or maybe you want to give your clients’ curls some attention? OSMO’s Curl Fluid and Curl Spray will define and control even the most
defiant locks. And while no fashionista would be seen dead without her sunglasses, second day hair is all the rage, which is why Day Two Styler by OSMO is a must – it will leave hair revitalised and ready to restyle. But to create a buzz about your clients’ hair that’s sure to last, give them OSMO’s Wonder 10. This unique, all-in-one keratinbased leave-in hair treatment has 10 incredible effects that will leave hair feeling softer, silkier, more manageable and radiant with shine – perfect for any drama queen and her temper tantrums!
Create your own drama with OSMO. For more details email sales@osmo.co.uk or visit osmo.uk.com 108 68
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CREATIVE HEAD
18/8/14 16:21:15
BEHIND THE SCENES
GET AN INSIGHT INTO CHARLES WORTHINGTON’S LATEST COLLECTION, THE ONE, AS WE GO BACKSTAGE ON THE SHOOT
WATCH the video from the shoot, exclusively at creativeheadmag.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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Taking inspiration from the ambiguity of androgyny, Charles Worthington and his team challenge styling conventions in the ONE collection
Neutral Photography by Benn Healy
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Hair Charles Worthington and Marc Trinder. Make-up Yuko Fredriksson.
See more from the shoot at creativeheadmag.com
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Portraits observations Celebrating the Art of Style, this fusion of illustration and photography from Paul Mitchell captures colour and personality to perfection PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIULIANO BEKOR
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Hair Lucie Doughty, Mary Cuomo and Noogie Thai for Paul Mitchell. Make-up Iris Moreau. Wardrobe Eddie Schachnow. Illustrations Sarah Hankinson.
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Lights out in Wonderland Texture and styling drive the storyline in the latest collection from Ken Picton and the ghd Art Team Photography by Andrew O’Toole
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See more from this shoot at
creativeheadmag.com
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Hair The ghd Art Team, led by Ken Picton Make-up Naoko Scintu Styling Desiree Lederer.
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Creative Head
13/8/14 12:39:58
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19/11/2013 09:40
Classified
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For help with
Risk Assessment
in Salons
The booklet “A Guide to the Health and Safety of Salon Products” is available at Alan Howard, Aston & Fincher, Capital Hair & Beauty, Sally Hair & Beauty and other good wholesalers. Or send your address and 4 unused first class stamps to:
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Telephone: 020 7274 6128 www.tangleteezer.com @tangleteezer
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PLEASE GIVE GENEROUSLY
COMMUNITY INITIATIVES MIGHT NOT MAKE YOU ANY MONEY DIRECTLY, ADMITS BARRIE STEPHEN, BUT THE RETURN IS GREATER THAN A BOOST IN PROFITS I LIKE TO EXPAND the phrase ‘no man is an island’, to add ‘being precious with time and resources gets you nowhere – and working alone doesn’t do you any favours’. At our salon we follow this to the extent that we’re now a very present part of the community. We’re involved in fundraising for the RSPCA and lead its ambassador programme; we’ve had a salon manager go to India for Schwarzkopf Professional’s Shaping Futures scheme; we provide all the styling for the De Montfort University end-of-year shows and brochures; we work with dance studios to create amazing competition routines; we offer our services for free to give makeovers to local heroes and recently we’ve teamed up with Leicester’s biggest theatre, the Curve, to style audience members. All this activity is great for our profile and generates fantastic buzz in the local media for us, as well as giving staff opportunities. But in reality, it requires time out of the salon and that’s generally not good for profits. There’s no denying that it’s important to donate time and skills to worthy causes and to help network and establish your brand, but we’ve come to realise that an altruistic or creative choice doesn’t necessarily translate to a good financial decision. Sometimes being a great salon means you have to take off your ‘money hat’ and put on your ‘community hat’. And when you’re seeing such good link-ups and publicity from activities such as hospital visits or hospice styling, then it becomes less about turnover and more about the value of involvement. All these charitable and big-hearted decisions generate far more in goodwill and great reputation than money could buy, and you can’t put a figure on that. Barrie Stephen is founder of Barrie Stephen Hair in Leicester
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CREATIVE HEAD
18/8/14 16:17:58
DETANGLE Snags, pulls, and breaks are so over. Wet Brush’s exclusive IntelliFlex® Bristles gently detangle to give you healthier, more beautiful hair. The Number One Pro Brush in America. BEAUTIFUL STARTS HERE.
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