Creative HEAD September 2016 by Alfol Publishing

£4.50 SEPTEMBER 2016

In print•online•everywhere!

SEPTEMBER 2016

Get creative Supersize services Grow clientele

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

The business booster that ticks all the boxes

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YOU MAY HAVE HEARD IT BEING WHISPERED ABOUT OR SEEN SNEAK PEEKS ON SOCIAL MEDIA, BUT THE WAIT IS OVER: IT’S TIME TO DISCOVER WHAT ALL THE TOP COLOURISTS ARE TALKING ABOUT AS SMARTBOND BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL LAUNCHES IN THE UK AND IRELAND

GET

“WE CAN TAKE OUR COLOUR CHANGE TO ANOTHER LEVEL” CHRIS WILLIAMS AT RUSH

“IT’S THE BEST THING A COLOURIST CAN HAVE” PAUL DENNISON AT KEN PICTON

“STRONGER HAIR AND EVEN COLOUR AND SHINE FROM ROOTS TO ENDS” ELLENORA DEAN AT PERCY & REED

“COLOUR STAYS FOR MUCH, MUCH LONGER” MARIO CHARALAMBOUS AT RICHARD WARD HAIR & METROSPA

FOR COLOUR INSPIRATION, FOLLOW #SMARTBOND #LOREALPRO #SMARTSQUAD

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

SMART

“I’M AMAZED HOW I’VE BEEN ABLE TO TAKE PEOPLE LIGHTER WITH SMARTBOND ADDED TO MY PRE-LIGHTENER AND STILL KEEP THE HAIR STRONGER THROUGH THE ENDS” JACK HOWARD AT PAUL EDMONDS

“SMARTBOND GIVES HAIR OPTIMUM SHINE WHILE COLOURING WITHOUT COMPROMISE. ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE!” KATIE ALLAN AT CHARLES WORTHINGTON

“I CAN NOW APPLY PRE-LIGHTENER WITHOUT HAVING A DETRIMENTAL EFFECT ON THE HAIR” ALAN EDWARDS AT ALAN EDWARDS

Get SMARTBOND by L’Oréal Professionnel in your salon and join the #SMARTSQUAD today. To find out more, speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

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09/08/2016 12:54

UNLEASH YOUR CREATIVITY WITH SMARTBOND

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Co-developed with worldwide top colourists. INNOVATION

THE NEW MUST-HAVE ADDITIVE FOR YOUR COLOUR SERVICES. PROTECT YOUR HAIR WHILE COLOURING FOR SOFTER, STRONGER, SHINIER HAIR.

SMARTBOND ADAPTS TO YOU, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND! Smartbond does not impact on your level of lift or colour result. No need to change your oxydant or development time.

FOLLOW THE STORY @LOREALPROUK #SMARTBOND #SMARTSQUAD #LOREALPRO

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SPECIAL EDITION

ELVIS

™

PRODUCTS AVAILABLE NOW

@AMERICANCREW.COM ®

FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com IRELAND: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com ELVIS™ AND ELVIS PRESLEY™ ARE TRADEMARKS OF ABG EPE IP LLC RIGHTS OF PUBLICITY AND PERSONA RIGHTS: ELVIS PRESLEY ENTERPRISES, LLC © 2016 ABG EPE IP LLC ELVIS.COM

SPEC:

SUPPLY PDF AS SEPERATE PAGES

“Thanks to all hairdressers and Revlon Professional for making women feel more beautiful” OLIVIA WILDE Revlon Brand Ambassador WWW.REVLONPROFESSIONAL.COM/REVLONISSIMO

NEW!

Introducing The most beautiful color in the world

“Revlonissimo Colorsmetique is like make-up for your hair. Clients love the soft, super shiny results.”

WITH HYALURONIC ACID & SOY PROTEIN

Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons

“Beautiful high coverage colour with luxurious shine. It delivers amazing hair every time.” Robert Masciave, Southern Hairdresser of the Year

“Healthy, rich colour, gentle on condition but completely flawless coverage.” Michelle Griffin, Griffins Salons

For more details contact Customer Services UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com

W W W.DAVINES.COM W W W.FACEBOOK.COM/DAVINESOFFICIAL

What is art if not a state of being?

MASK WITH VIBRACHROMTM IS THE NEW COLOUR CONDITIONING SYSTEM THAT DELIVERS MORE SHINE AND LONG LASTING COLOUR THANKS TO THE INNOVATIVE SPIRIT OF DAVINES LABORATORIES TO COMBINE NATURE WITH THE LATEST TECHNOLOGIES IN COSMETICS AND TEXTILES.

Editor’s letter

83 JOIN US!

WE’RE STILL ON A high following the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final (see the results from page 24) but let’s get down to business for the new season, shall we? We investigate HMRC’s ‘Naming and Shaming’ strategy and its impact on UK salons as part of our continuing Futureproof campaign, for starters. There’s a heavenly step-by-step guide to adding extensions (and a dash of excitement!) to your business, and a roundup of the A/W16 trends you need to know… but the latter is an amuse bouche to whet your appetite for Runway A/W16, free with this issue! Guest edited by former Vogue beauty editor, Jessica Diner, she shares an exclusive conversation with Guido Palau, who raises the curtain on that stunning Marc Jacobs show, featuring one Lady Gaga. Elsewhere, fashion-forward salon owners, including George Northwood and Adam Reed, illustrate how they commercialise catwalk inspiration in their businesses, proving fashion isn’t just to look pretty – profits there are looking pretty, too!

Amanda Nottage Editor

Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year 2014 and 2015

amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine

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The winners of the 2016 Most Wanted and The It List Awards – the most wonderful night in the hairdressing year – have been crowned! Huge congratulations and big love to our exceptional winners – you’ll ﬁnd a full list of names on page 24. In the meantime, it’s almost here! The second ever Big Hair Do takes place in 100 salons across the UK on Wednesday 28 September. Want to be part of the UK’s biggest hair party – and a Twitter sensation? Register now at creativeheadmag.com/store for just £75. More details on page 50. Finally, we’re excited to announce dates for the ﬁnal two Coterie events of 2016: 24 October in Glasgow, and 7 November in London. Find out who’s speaking and snap up your tickets at creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie

creativeheadmag.com

@creativeheadmag

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag

11/08/2016 10:03

*Global total donated by ghd to breast cancer charities over the last 12 years **£10 per styler sold will be donated to Breast Cancer Now, registered charity No. 1160558 (England and Wales) and SC045584 (Scotland) and a company limited by guarantee (Company No. 9347608).

£9,000,000 RAISED SO FAR LET’S MAKE IT £10,000,000 *

DONATION WITH EVERY PURCHASE OF THE ghd ELECTRIC PINK COLLECTION**

Speak to your ghd account manager or call 0845 3301133 for more information. For more ways to support, visit ghdhair.com/pink

September

WHAT’S INSIDE

FASHION

EXTENSIONS

Aveda tells a story with Folklor

STAFF WRITER

AMANDA NOTTAGE

ANNA SAMSON

FREE INS THIS ISSUIDE E

SCENE

Goldwell’s Summer Party takes over London

DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER ALISON ROWLEY

DEPUTY EDITOR

ADVERTISING

BETH DAVIE

LAURA TUCKER

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

ART DIRECTOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

NICK JABBAL

DAVID HAMMOND

PUBLISHER

JOANNA ANDERSEN

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

creativeheadmag.com

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Hair by L’Oréal Professionnel

Why you need the ever-more accesible and versatile addition in your salon

84 EDITOR

ON THE COVER

Creative HEAD Magazine

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certiﬁed as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

@creativeheadmag

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

11/08/2016 10:05

25 CELEBRATING

years

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“This year we celebrate 25 years of partnership and it feels as wonderful now as it did back then. We are each other’s closest friend and confidant, and it’s exciting to see how Hooker & Young has grown alongside our relationship. Our salons and teams are like our family – we’ve poured heart and soul into them…” GARY HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG

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“This shoot actually came about through a chance meeting with our longtime friend, the photographer Ram Shergill. We’ve worked with Ram a lot over the years creating some pretty memorable shoots and this seemed like a great time to reconnect and do something out of the box. The result is very much an amalgamation of what we all love – a collection with no boundaries, of storytelling through pictures.” MICHAEL YOUNG

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The hair direction was quite organic in as much as we let the surroundings dictate the looks so it felt real and thought-provoking. The looks we created are deliberately exaggerated and oversized in order to bring a more highfashion element to the results.â&#x20AC;? GARY HOOKER

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HAIR: Gary Hooker & Michael Young MAKE-UP: Natasha Lakic STYLING: Claudia Behnke PHOTOGRAPHY: Ram Shergill PRODUCTS: Schwarzkopf Professional

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“Why does it work?

Simple…

Honesty, respect, love and laughter.” GARY HOOKER AND MICHAEL YOUNG

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The North Eastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest power couple, Gary Hooker and Michael Young, are the brains and the talent behind the luxurious hairdressing brand Hooker & Young. With salons in Darlington, Gosforth, Jesmond, Ponteland and Wynyard the Hooker & Young brand is synonymous with style, with their carefully trained teams priding themselves in offering the latest hairdressing techniques to their loyal clientele in stylish salon environments. Their local success is also replicated creatively on a global scale. Countless industry and international award wins back up the creative vision, business acumen and bespoke talent that Gary and Michael bring out in each other. These showmen are just as at home onstage presenting to thousands of hairdressers or working on editorial campaigns and catwalk shows as they are with clients in their salons. Their editorial coverage is unrivalled; front covers, seasonal campaigns and photographic shoots regularly showcase the prestigious finish the boys are renowned for. Now celebrating their 25th anniversary, Gary and Michael show no signs of slowing down. This incredible shoot, produced in conjunction with product partners Schwarzkopf Professional, is just one of a host of projects they will unfold in the coming months.

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Titanium Pro-Air Clippers And Mini Trimmer

30 DAYS T O

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The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

2016

WHO HAS WON?

Turn to page 24 or visit creativeheadmag.com and see who has been named the best of the best at the Most Wanted and It List Awards CREATIVE HEAD

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Ziad Nakad

Julien Fournie

THIS MONTH WE’RE celebrating the launch of Creative HEAD Education – a fresh new kind of hairdressing coaching that allows you to tap into the talents of the industry’s finest creatives. Combining videos and step by steps with interviews, profiles, trends and backstage insight, Creative HEAD Education is full of ideas, guidance and inspiration that you simply won’t find anywhere else. It’s just what you need to get your creative juices flowing! “The runaway success of our Coterie members club makes the launch of Creative HEAD Education a natural next step for us,” said Catherine Handcock, Creative HEAD publisher. “Now our readers can be inspired by fantastically creative, innovative people 24/7, with the ability to dip into their ideas, techniques, imagery and careers advice any time they choose. It’s a fantastic resource that I hope people will really enjoy and benefit from.” Take inspiration from industry influencers as they share their latest ideas and techniques or feast your eyes on the latest videos – from cool tutorials to brilliant fashion films. You can also get expert insight from the industry’s leading names, thanks to candid interviews and Q&A sessions. And not only that, each month a different Featured Artist showcases their creative vision, inspirations, favourite products and more – a unique insight into their working world, starting with Tim Hartley for September. Turn to page 52 for more.

Guo Pei

LAUNCHES EDUCATION

Couturissimo

CREATIVE HEAD

Classic couture

WE SHOULDN’T REALLY say this, but sometimes we prefer the couture and resort shows to Fashion Week. For the Paris Haute Couture Fall shows, Neville Hair & Beauty was on hand to create the hair looks for the worldwide launch of Couturissimo, where the team had to create a look that would complement collections from three brands, resulting in a polished, luxurious style with some intricate plaiting. Over at Ziad Nakad, sophistication and sex appeal was the order of the day, with Stephen Low creating gloriously shiny waves that fell over the models’ left shoulders. While at Guo Pei, 32 individual looks were created to suit each model, with accessories taking pride of place.

Hairdryers, alongside scissors, are your BFFs and offer great retail opportunities, too. So you need to know about the Airshot from Cloud Nine: it creates less frizz, thanks to its antistatic technology and vitamin-infused design; it boasts three heat settings and a killer cool shot. (RRP £99; cloudninehair.com)

09/08/2016 10:44

#CHedit MY month

THE KNOW-HOW

AHEAD

What September has in store for...

THE INSIDE TRACK ON THE HOTTEST SALON IDEAS

GEORGIA TULLEY TREVOR SORBIE BRIGHTON

Celebrity hairdresser, Paul Norton, shares a trick to transform damaged hair ALL TOO FREQUENTLY celebrities turn up to a cover shoot or to an appointment before a red carpet event with dry, damaged hair that is dull, lifeless and simply cannot hold a style. While there are some amazing styling products on the market, nothing can truly mask hair that has been overprocessed and mistreated, which is why I decided to work with Joico on the development of Joico K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock. Part of the popular Joico K-Pak Color Therapy range, Luster Lock is an instant repair and shine treatment for coloured hair. Using a unique QuadraBond Peptide Complex of African manketti and argan oils, Luster Lock transforms the appearance and feel of hair in just ﬁve minutes. Hair looks shiny, healthy and strong, colour will last longer and strands will be nine times more resistant to breakage. This means stylists, like me, can get straight to work creating cover-worthy looks that radiate health.

GHD REVEALS STYLE SQUAD THE 2016/17 ghd style squad members have been revealed. They are (pictured clockwise from back left): Chloe Haride of Wonderland Hair and Beauty; Monique Rogers-Fallon, The Colour Room; Sophia Tsilidis, Headmasters, Soho; Joanna Mires, Headmasters, Mayfair; Ben Grace, Taylor Taylor London; Kirsten Bassett, Electric Hairdressing; Rheanne Bryant, Hare & Bone; and Anton Thomas, Olsen and Olsen Hairdressing. Known as a ‘finishing school for styling’, the ghd style squad will enjoy a year of networking, media events and learning the tips and tricks from the industry’s elite.

Nilam Holmes-Patel is Woman of the Year CO-FOUNDER AND chief executive of High Definition Beauty Group, Nilam Holmes-Patel, has won the Woman of the Year SME Business Award at the Barclays Women in Business Awards 2016. She launched High Definition Brows in 2008.

FRANCESCO CELEBRATES SALONS

THE FRANCESCO GROUP gathered at the International Convention Centre in Birmingham to reveal this year’s Business and Creative Award winners. Northwich was crowned Salon of the Year, while Matt Roskell from Weeping Cross took home the Hair Trend award and Northwich’s Donna Gorman was named Stylist of the Year.

The Big Hair Do is coming up where we have colour consultations, a braid bar and nail bar. We also have a new Art Team collection to reveal. And we are hosting a Macmillan Coffee Morning, with money going to Trevor Sorbie’s My New Hair charity.

TIM THOMAS

HOOP HAIRCUTTERS

We’ve just relocated and opened our new salon in Great Clacton in Essex. The team is busy spreading the word and we’re doing really well, especially after organising a fabulous salon launch party. Hoop Haircutters is the best it’s ever been.

COLLECTIVE TAKES MANCHESTER BY STORM

MAZELLA&PALMER JOINED forces with Fudge Professional to present the Core Collective show in the iconic Old Granada Studios in Manchester. The latest colouring and cutting trends and techniques were lapped up by more than 400 hair professional customers of distributor, Alan Howard, in what was a perfect showcase of the Fudge Professional range.

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VITAPLEX_AD_CREATIVE_HEAD.pdf

CMY

04/08/2016

14:17

S R A T S L L A

E T A R B E L E C S D R A W A ED T N A W T S O M S â&#x20AC;&#x2122; D A E L A N CREATIVE H IO T P E C X E E H T DS, IN M L A N E T M A O H N T E H IT P IR E P S TH M A E T S S DLE N U O B E H T D N A Y IT E H T IN T CREATIV S E B E H T G SIN S E R D IR A H H ! IS 6 IT 1 R 0 B 2 S F O S R MAKE A T S E H OT T S N IO T A L U T A R G N O WORLD. C 24-27_MWIT Sept.indd 1

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THE 2016 WINNERS BEST SALON TEAM SPONSORED BY

MALCOLM MURPHY HAIR

BUSINESS THINKER SPONSORED BY

MARK WOOLLEY

LEICESTER

ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING

BEST LOCAL SALON

COLOUR EXPERT

SPONSORED BY

GEORGEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAIRDRESSING LEICESTER

ROBERT EATON RUSSELL EATON

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE SPONSORED BY

HAIR TREND SPONSORED BY

NOT ANOTHER SALON LONDON

BEST NEW SALON

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE ERROL DOUGLAS

SPONSORED BY

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

DANIEL GRANGER HAIRDRESSING NORTHAMPTON

MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST

SPONSORED BY

MATTHEW SOCKALINGUM FOR THE BLOW-DRY PASS

SPONSORED BY

SESSION STYLIST SPONSORED BY

CHRIS FOSTER THE REFINERY

EUGENE SOULEIMAN

CREATIVE TALENT

HAIR ICON

SPONSORED BY

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE ERROL DOUGLAS

event

24-27_MWIT Sept.indd 2

COMING NEXT MONTH...

SPONSORED BY

JOSH WOOD

SPECIAL COVERAGE MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST GRAND FINAL MAGAZINE CATCH UP NOW ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/ mostwanted

@creativeheadmag #MWIT16

08/08/2016 15:20

201 6

T H G BRI G N U YO S G N I TH

MPETITION O C R IE M E R P ’S IST – THE UK L IT OR UNDER ’S 0 D 3 A E D H E G E A IV S T R A E E S R C G HAIRDRES N U O Y S. PUT YOUR D E R T A T N S E L F O R E T FOR TA A N E W RO S CITING X D E E C Y IL N R U A O N IN D N R A – HAS SIX EXTRAO E H T R O F R E H OMORROW T T E L U R L IL W HANDS TOGE EATIVES WHO R C IR A H G N U YO

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THE 2016 IT LIST THE RISING STAR KIRSTEN BASSETT ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING

WITH NEXT MONTH’S ISSUE...

EXCLUSIVE MAGAZINE

THE FASHIONISTA ISSEY HYDE LONDON HAIR HUB

THE ENTREPRENEUR KY WILSON THE SOCIAL

THE VISIONARY SOPHIE SPRINGETT TONI&GUY

THE IT GIRL AMY FISH GEORGE NORTHWOOD

SPECIAL COVERAGE OF THE MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS

THE IT GUY JOSHUA GOLDSWORTHY GOLDSWORTHY’S

event

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CATCH UP NOW ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/ theitlist

#MWIT16 @creativeheadmag

08/08/2016 15:20

You can now get the Nanokeratin System, alongside a brilliant lineup of aftercare, from new master distributor, Fresh Approach!

IN-SALON SERVICE; AFTERCARE RRP FROM £20.25 01925 578000

With four new hair fragrances to fall in love with, Kerasilk from Goldwell just got even more covetable! A spritz leaves hair feeling fresh and silky while looking shiny. It saves energy, it’s quieter, it’s lighter and more powerful than ever – the Parlux Advance is a compact blow-dry master in a fab choice of colours!

RRP £22 020 3540 1200 goldwell.co.uk

nanokeratinsystemuk.com

RRP £135 01924 466999 hairtools.co.uk

Get on trend for A/W16 with Transforming Dry Shampoo and Texturising Salt Spray, from Catwalk by TIGI.

RRP £16.95 EACH 0844 844 0944

Oh, Great British weather, how you mock the hair tittifiers of the land. From unforeseen downpours to that fine mizzle that makes everything frizzy, there are constant challenges to keeping those locks lovely all day long. That’s why the Titanium Expression Pro Large Hot Brush from BaByliss PRO caught my eye – it’s the ideal secret weapon to tell clients to hide in an office drawer. Get into work, plug it in, brush it through and – hey presto! – smooth and shiny hair that looks done. Take that, Met Office! RRP £70

0370 513 3191

catwalkbytigi.com

babylisspro.co.uk

Create this season’s coolest blue hue with the superhandy, limited edition Blue Denim kit from Affinage.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111 affinage.com

This limited edition D3 brush from Denman is a must for any fans of the good ol’ red, white and blue!

RRP £9

0800 262509

denmanbrush.com

Meet the Curve Collection from Fudge Professional for clients with natural bounce (Curve Recovery) and those looking to fake the wave (Curve Maker).

Get set for October and stock the limited edition electric pink range from ghd, and support Breast Cancer Now – each tool sold means £10 to the charity!

RRP £14.95 EACH 020 7845 6333

RRP FROM £99 (HAIR PIN BAGS, £5 EACH) 0845 330 1133

IN-SALON SERVICE 0330 123 1907

ghdhair.com

salon-services.com

fudgeprofessional.com

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Say hello to the XP family – XP100 Intense Radiance is a permanent colour cream with 100 per cent cover; XP100 Light Radiance is a demi-permanent option, while XP200 Natural Flair is permanent.

CREATIVE HEAD

09/08/2016 16:48

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

LAUNCH OF THE MONTH

IT WAS ONLY a matter of time before L’Oréal Professionnel, the French giant of salon shades, unveiled a bonding service to help protect all those colour clients in UK salons. And here it is – Smartbond does what it says on the tin. It’s the brand’s new “smart ingredient” that’s added to colour, and is designed to protect the bonds deep within the hair and strengthen them during colouring and lightening processes, resulting in hair that is stronger, feels touchably softer, and looks shinier. It’s all thanks to maleic acid, which limits oxidative stress, preserves strong bonds, captures the ions and allows the reconstruction of the weak bonds. There’s a blend of ceramides and polymers, too, that provides condition and shine. Then encourage clients to continue the good work with the home conditioner, which when used weekly for a few minutes, continuously strengthens the fibre week after week, making that salon finish last longer! Get smart...

IN-SALON SERVICE; CONDITIONER RRP £16.49 0845 600 0122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

IT’S ALL ABOUT... SKINCARE INSPIRATION Inspired by self-heating face masks, Redken has unveiled Heat Cure, a salon treatment that reverses the signs of damage of up to one year. Guests then take home packets of intense treatment, which when you peel, self-heat to 40˚C, penetrating deeper into hair. Clever!

IN-SALON SERVICE 020 8762 4121 redken.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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The Spécifique Purification System from Kérastase uses the expertise of Clarisonic to offer an advanced scalp service for those suffering “urban” hair problems, such as the effects of hard water, product build-up and pollution.

IN-SALON SERVICE

0845 600 0122

kerastase.co.uk

09/08/2016 16:48

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CREATIVE HEAD

08/08/2016 16:22

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

IS IT A SIGN? IT’S THE RESULT OF THREE YEARS OF IDEA SHARING, WORKING AND CO-CREATING WITH THOUSANDS OF STYLISTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD AND IT’S SET TO BE UNVEILED IN THE UK… WHAT IS IT? STYLESIGN BY GOLDWELL.

GREAT STYLE IN YOUR HANDS – COMING SOON WANT TO KNOW MORE? LOOK OUT FOR OUR NEXT ISSUE FOR THE BIG REVEAL OF NEW LOOK STYLESIGN BY GOLDWELL CREATIVE HEAD

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11/08/2016 09:59

9 out of 10 people who switched to Cloud Nine preferred our Irons*. *Taken from a recent independent survey of 500 people

Your Hair, Your Heat, Your Style. Take back control of your styling with adjustable heat from Cloud NineÂŽ

For information about availability or to become a stockist, please call: 01943 811 310.

#CHedit

WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I always thought hairdressing would be a fun and creative job; I didn’t realise how rewarding and exciting it could be. I love the variation in hairdressing – from shows and seminars to internal education and my own clientele. No day is the same!

R I S I N G S TA R

OLIVER PRESTAGE AGE: 24 SALON: MAHOGANY HAIRDRESSING, LONDON WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? I was lucky enough to head to Rotterdam in 2014 as part of the Mahogany Creative Team with Schwarzkopf Professional, where we ran a ‘look and learn’ seminar and launched our collection on stage. The two days were full-on, to say the least, but one of my best experiences.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM GIG? I’d absolutely love to travel more with Mahogany and take our collections abroad. Performing shows and running seminars on a global level is a dream of mine.

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS? I’d love to run my own Mahogany salon and keep pushing the education side of the business. I love teaching stylists across the UK, and want to build on this to become a renowned educator in the industry. Education is so important to me.

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CREATIVE HEAD

08/08/2016 16:12

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ALL ABOARD YOUR JOURNEY INTO THE WORLD OF REBELLIOUS COLOUR STARTS WITH THE NEW BED HEAD COLOUR TRIP SEMI-PERMANENT SHADES BY TIGI

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*Depending on the hair condition, shade(s) applied and aftercare routine, results may vary

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ENJOY THE RIDE WITH 12 LONG-LASTING SHADES, DISCOVER WHERE BED HEAD COLOUR TRIP WILL TAKE YOU AND YOUR CLIENT. THE ONLY QUESTION IS: HOW FAR WILL YOU GO? WHETHER YOUR CLIENT is a real rebel, a savvy stylista or a demure damsel, the Bed Head Colour Trip range by TIGI can be adapted and played around with to suit everyone. Much like its styling line, Bed Head’s ﬁrst ever colour range is all about expressing your client’s individuality. So throw out the style guide and remember the only rule: there are no boundaries. Colour Trip is a long-lasting, semi-permanent range, allowing you to create rebellious shades that last through 20 shampoos.* The 12 acidic shades are fully intermixable, enabling you to create the perfect colourful cocktail. The only thing you and your client need to do is enjoy the ride… And your clients don’t need to worry about damaging their hair as the range is formulated with hydrolysed keratin and coconut oil,

TIGI 4pp.indd 3

ingredients known to strengthen and condition the hair. Also, Colour Trip has been designed to be mildly acidic with a pH range close to that of natural hair. This helps close the hair cuticle and prevents the ﬁbres from swelling so that they are smooth, aligned and protected. How far will you go on your colour trip? Find out today with Bed Head Colour Trip by TIGI.

COLOUR TIP!

The versatile and intense Colour Trip range can also be used to enhance, correct, retouch or refresh your client’s hair, while the gentle formula helps close hair cuticles.

09/08/2016 11:49

HOW FAR WILL YOU GO? “Colour has become central to our creative work and it’s in our DNA to take a trip into the unknown and see how far we can go. Once we’ve unleashed our creativity, the next step is to invite hairdressers to start experimenting, too” ANTHONY MASCOLO, INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AND FOUNDER OF TIGI To find out more, call 0844 844 0944 or visit bedhead.com

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09/08/2016 11:49

#CHedit

Inside story FRESH FITZROVIA THIS IS THE THIRD Aveda Lifestyle Salon from Fresh, and is set in an area of Fitzrovia that’s buzzing with nearby beauty firms, ad agencies and publishing houses. Its distinctive eco-luxe interiors embody the Aveda ethical mission, and standout individual features include a statement table that’s hand carved from a single slab of English horse chestnut. Chairs are crafted from recycled polypropylene along with natural jute and hemp fibres, and the sleekest of styling stations have been created with sustainably harvested paper and resin. Venture to the discreet backwash and you’ll find full body massage chairs and soundproofed floor-toceiling glass windows that stream in natural daylight. Oh, and there’s skinny Prosecco after 5pm, and clients can settle their bill from the comfort of their salon chair. Fresh thinking, indeed.

HOT BUYS BACK TO BASICS

now open

These hardworking salon essentials are part of an amazing offer from Salon Ambience until the end of the year – the Titanium work unit is minimalist style incarnate while the Glam is available in a variety of colours, and can be used as a cabinet or a trolley. PRICE: Titanium with footrest £386 (was £729); Glam £264 (was £499) 07554 990965 salonambience.com

SWANKY MALONE DOWNTOWN LIVERPOOL SEE MORE deals from Salon Ambience in your free brochure with this issue of Creative HEAD!

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Swanky Malone’s newest venture is in the city’s Baltic Triangle – clients can enjoy a complimentary ‘Word from the Bird’ consultation!

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THE BUSINESS EDIT FROM INSIDE

THE SALON

CLARE ARDEN

HARRY JON HAIR & MAKE-UP I’m a new salon owner, new to managing and my salon is in a small town with a number of salons. I’ve already had one stylist leave, who I hear is setting up down the road. I welcome competition and there’s plenty of it. I work on a referral basis, I briefed the self-employed artists initially about having a small contract just for a little protection but they started without – my bad. I pass on numerous clients when I’m not available, I pay for the advertising and shop running. I’ve been fed lines like “I’m so honoured to be part of your brand, it’s good that you trust me”. If this was purely a chair rental with their own clients I wouldn’t be so protective. Nor if it was a city centre, where I could rely on passing trade, but these are leads through my advertising with my imagery. It’s my work selling us and it’s my pocket funding us.

IS COMPETITION TOO CLOSE FOR COMFORT? The NHF is calling for tighter “non-compete clauses” to prevent an employee from setting up a rival business within five miles of their previous employer for at least six months following their departure (see page 48). Is this a great idea, or is this making it even tougher for new salon owners to set up their own businesses? According to 3•6•5’s Ken West, non-compete clauses have to be carefully worded because if they are unreasonable and unfairly restrictive of an individual’s ability to earn a living, they can be legally unenforceable. “Instead of focusing on time-consuming, energysapping, and often emotional battles, focus on retaining clients by pro-active marketing and communication. Invite and incentivise them to experience another member of your team with complimentary upgrades or services.” “As a salon owner of 15 years, my kneejerk reaction to this proposal is ‘absolutely’,” admits Bravo’s Phil Jackson. “But we have to keep resisting restrictions and legislation wherever we can. Consider why they’re leaving – is there a way you could build a sense of ownership into your salon? Could you start a programme that helps you partner with senior stylists if they want their own salon?” Of course, location can also play its part. “Working somewhere like

the West End, which is less than three square miles in area, means this make no sense,” argues Adam Bennett, from Adam Bennett Hair @ the W Hotel. “It’s interesting that salon owners want to discourage tight non-competes when recruiting a stylist with a great clientele, but try to keep the leash tight when a stylist with a great clientele wants to leave!” “In small villages and towns it’s not right unless you’re closing down your own salon,” argues Rehab Hair’s Emma Audsley. “I’ve seen it happen recently where a salon had no option but to shut as the girls working there took over another salon. It should be a business’s choice to add it into contracts.” Fanny Babou from Sherlocks Hairdressing has a suggestion: “If they leave within one year of their training being completed, then maybe include a payback of training/ investments cost. But if the stylist is established, they can do what they want.” “I’d like to see a governing body set up to support salon owners if people breach clauses in contracts, such as taking client data, opening up a salon or going mobile within an unreasonable radius and poaching staff,” says Natalie Allen from Harvey Luke Salons. “It’s very expensive to take action. Support to secure clear and unambiguous rules that are fair would be very much appreciated.”

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CREATIVE HEAD

08/08/2016 17:07

#BusinessEdit

The Numbers Game THE STATS OF SALON LIFE – AND HOW YOU CAN IMPROVE YOUR FIGURES

SALON MANAGERS are under enormous pressure to keep on top of changes to pay and incentives – with increases in the National Minimum Wage, the introduction of the Living Wage, and the implementation of pensions, bosses have a lot to add up, to be on the right side of their team members and the HMRC. Incentives can prove tricky – there’s no ‘one size fits all’ approach for employees. While one might work harder for cold, hard cash, another could be turned on by the idea of extra days off. Ensure you discuss options with the team and settle on the right mix to keep morale high.

9.1%

93% 50% 81% of respondents said they had not been adversely affected by National Living Wage legislation

Wage bonus Time off Education opportunities

The introduction of the National Living Wage has not made business any easier – yes, it has hurt cashflow, but the introduction of pensions is going to hit us harder IZAAK BRADING, MOD SALONS, LEEDS

WAS THE AVERAGE PERCENTAGE OF RETAIL IN JUNE TURNOVER

£46.04

WAS THE AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND

12.8%

of business owners asked have been investigated by the HMRC

are operating a staff pension scheme, while the remaining 19 per cent are ready to roll out a scheme

The top salon staff incentives are:

OF AVERAGE TOTAL CLIENTS WERE NEW CLIENTS

HOW WAS BUSINESS IN JUNE 2016 COMPARED WITH MAY 2016?

declining

19%

steady 19%

growing 62%

HOW WAS BUSINESS IN JUNE 2016 COMPARED WITH JUNE 2015?

steady 38%

growing 62%

MANAGERS OFTEN GET into the habit of thinking in terms of individual targets, but for smaller teams, a collective target can be more motivating. In a team of three or four, everyone gets a sense of influencing the result, and it creates solidarity. With Ikosoft’s Merlin you can set individual, team or mixed targets to motivate your employees. Know how to discuss figures and be realistic – transparency is key. Giving access to individual employee turnover figures and to the salon total incites employees to emulate one another. Let them know the total number of cuts, colours, treatment and product sales performed each month and what targets need to be hit. Realistic ambitions, which take into account a highly competitive market, will give a morale boost to your team if they hit them. More employees are willing to accept a reduced salary in exchange for a more interesting role, the promise of a stimulating career or a better quality of life. Morgane Brosset is marketing director at software provider Ikosoft. Visit Ikosoft.com CREATIVE HEAD

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Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

PAY & INCENTIVES

08/08/2016 17:14

#BusinessEdit IAN NUTTALL BABYLISS PRO

TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES! HOW DO YOU DEVELOP IDEAS FOR NEW PRODUCTS? This industry is an amazing source of inspiration and we strive to develop products that allow stylists to push their creativity boundaries. Our tools are designed to perform in all professional situations and we seek feedback to ensure we are always improving and refining current products as well as developing new ones.

HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN A PRODUCT IS READY? From the moment the brand launched in the ’50s we have worked with professional hairdressers to develop new products. Nothing is launched until it has been thoroughly tested.

WHAT DOES WINNING THE QUEEN’S AWARD FOR ENTERPRISE IN INNOVATION MEAN TO THE BRAND? It has been incredible to receive it and be recognised for the ground-breaking auto-curl technology in our Perfect Curl. It’s so important that we continue to develop exciting new products that allow stylists to create looks that keep their clients coming back for more. This is why feedback is so vital.

40_Q&A.indd 1

TIM HARTLEY is September’s Featured Artist on Creative HEAD Education! Check it out – creativeheadmag.com/education

TIM HARTLEY

How do you feel technology will impact hairdressing in the future?

@austenthomson The internet and social media are going to shape all of our lives in the future. We just have to remember that hairdressing is a people business and never lose sight of that. When trying to raise your profile in the industry, what would be the advice you would give?

@Evangeline_hair Collections are our biggest tool in terms of image direction within all areas of the industry. With these you have the power to tell the world what you do. What’s been your favourite on stage moment and why?

@MrHaircare Soon after I left Sassoon, Vidal came to a one-man hair show I was doing – it was a very humbling experience and thankfully I did not know he was there until the end of the show. What would be your advice to your 20-year-old self?

@Jo_Timperley Listen to your teachers and keep going. Find a hair hero. What makes a great hairdresser?

@PHABStandard A great hairdresser is a good listener and somebody who cares about people. Our creativity comes through love, grace and passion. This is equally important to the hairdresser and client. Greengrocers have customers – hairdressers have clients. Next issue: Paul Percival. Email Amanda@alfol.co.uk or tweet @creativeheadmag

ON THE FLIP SIDE

SOMETIMES, IT’S THE little things that can make a big difference. Nick Jones, manger at Nick Jones Hairdressing in Swindon, has been rather impressed by a little washable, reusable cap that fits onto backwash bottles. Big deal, you might think. Well, this tiny wonder, called Flip It (£16.50 for six, freshapproach.uk.com), helps prevent salons from wasting product at the bottom of the bottle. “I always like looking at something new,” says Nick. “This is a great idea and fits the vast majority of bottles – I would recommend it to all salon owners.”

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BRIGHT IDEA KEEN TO MODERNISE HOW YOUR SALON WORKS? MEET MERLIN AIR BY IKOSOFT – THE SMART, SIMPLE WAY TO RUN YOUR SALON SUCCESSFULLY

OPERATING A BUSINESS is hard work, but what if you had a helping hand? A tool that could streamline how you run your salon while providing key insights and data into what’s working and not working for your business? Ikosoft is leading the software revolution with Merlin AIR – the most advanced online software of its generation. The 100 per cent online tool does it all: stock management, inventories, technical files, client files, billing, services, employees, online booking, automated text marketing, statistical analysis, dashboards – the list goes on. Merlin AIR also provides two sites for multifunctional control – salon application for basic salon use, and back office access for managers and owners. And it’s perfect for salon groups and franchises as the intuitive, all-inclusive management programme means you

have access to key market indicators for the whole salon group, enabling you to see how each salon is doing wherever you are. But perhaps the best part about Merlin AIR is that no installation is required – it’s all online, meaning you can access it from anywhere. All of this comes with the guarantee that your data in the cloud is protected, so you don’t have to worry about backups or downloads. Still not sure? Why not give it a go and see how it can transform your salon business? With no financial commitment, you don’t need to worry about being tied to a contract you can’t get out of. Merlin AIR is all about offering you simple, straightforward help, which is why it offers a £20 a month commitment-free subscription. You have maximum freedom while you discover all that Merlin AIR can do for you and your salon – now that’s a bright idea.

See how Merlin AIR can modernise your business today. For more, call 01212 880877 or visit ikosoft.com

042-043_IKOSOFT.indd 1

CREATIVE HEAD

09/08/2016 10:47

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

is it e, ur fut the see st ju `t sn doe It e? ar tw sof in erl M "What do I like about mind" d axe rel a th wi job my do can I , lon sa my in t sof Iko ith W the future. Eric Pfalzgraf, Coiï¬&#x20AC;irst Paris

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09/08/2016 10:47

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Purely professional Trusted by American stylists for decades, Kenra Professional has landed in the UK exclusively at Salon Services – is your business ready?

SERVING ITS high-performing haircare products to professionals for more than 85 years, Kenra Professional is one of the top five growing brands in the hairdressing industry. Driven by innovation, education and performance, the company’s award-winning range is perfect for creating the looks that your clients demand. It’s not just a favourite in salons – Kenra is the go-to brand for celebrity stylists and influencers worldwide, too. The likes of Guy Tang, David Lopez and Jenny Strebe are all huge fans and regularly work with the range. Kenra Professional is made up of two lines: Kenra and Kenra Platinum. Each possessing distinct personalities, they are designed to work together for lasting results. Established for over six decades, flagship brand Kenra consists of effective, easy-to-use haircare products ranging from performance-based shampoos and conditioners to the popular Volume collection, featuring the award-winning Volume Spray 25. Kenra Platinum is known for its use of luxurious ingredients. Innovative products include Silkening Gloss, Dry Texture Spray and the bestselling Blow-Dry Spray.

WE LOVE Kenra Platinum Blow-Dry Spray A US bestseller, it’s the ultimate product for creating and maintaining the perfect blow out, dramatically reducing blow-dry time by up to 50 per cent. Innovative technology and ingredients – including argan and jojoba oils – help to soothe and hydrate the hair, while a UV ﬁlter and thermal protection help prevent damage while also preserving colour. • Reduces blow-dry time by 50 per cent • Provides intense heat protection • Lightweight formula detangles and softens • Eliminates frizz and resists humidity

Kenra Volume Spray 25

The bestselling Volume Spray 25 provides maximum volume and hold. Containing UV protection, panthenol and hydrolysed wheat protein to provide strength, shine and reduce breakage, this super-hold ﬁnishing spray has a ﬁner mist compared with typical hairspray lines, resulting in a strong hold without build-up. Hair stays body-beautiful for up to 24 hours. • Fast-drying, 120-hour super-hold spray • 24-hour high humidity resistance • Wind resistant up to 25mph • Finer mist to create more volume

Get the award-winning Kenra Professional in your salon. For more information, call 0330 123 1907 or visit salon-services.com CREATIVE HEAD

045_Sally.indd 1

09/08/2016 10:51

#BusinessEdit

LIFE LESSONS

ROBERT MASCIAVE METROPOLIS HAIRDRESING

Learn from your loved ones. My parents taught me honesty, kindness and respect. Those values are with me all the time and I make sure they are part of the culture in my salon. Persevere and be brave. It takes courage and dedication to reach your goals - I've been scared many times but I always face difficulties head-on. Never give up. Work hard with focus, attention and intention. Working hard and smart is the way to achieve your ambitions. Plan, have strategies and keep your eyes open on your progress – not just your failures and successes. Have self-awareness and balance. I always look at the details with the desire to evolve. This is essential to help me grow my skills. I’ve seen many people easily satisfied and the results are too often mediocre. ‘Zooming out’ gives me perspective, direction and balance.

046_Ken West September.indd 1

WATCH OUT, HMRC IS ABOUT

YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT STAFF HOURS AND DEDUCTIONS, SAYS KEN WEST KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5

HISTORICALLY OUR industry pay for their tools. has been fairly relaxed with the We now recommend employment records and systems that salons have a “basic that are used to record exactly how tool kit” that contains all the staff are paid. I still come across tools an individual needs to carry out salons that guarantee their teams a “taketheir job, because even if a stylist needs home figure” and not a gross salary. This is a tool and to buy it would take them below not a good idea and focuses staff on totally the minimum wage, then this can also be seen wrong figure. No other industry would do this. as a failure to comply. The days of making Currently, at 3•6•5, we are aware of HMRC deductions from team members’ salaries to carrying out inspections regarding the pay for goods or equipment have also gone, if National Minimum Wage (NMW) in a way that by doing so they are also taken below NMW. we have never seen before. Salons are being Any purchases made from the salon by team fined and named and shamed for practices members should be paid for by them just that have been common place in our industry like a regular customer would do. From their for years (for more, see Futureproof, page 56). own money and rung into your till just like a It’s really vital that salons accurately record normal purchase. every hour that is “worked” by any individual In our courses we now provide our members who is on NMW. Asking someone to be ready with a list of deductions that you can make to serve a client at 9.00am is okay, but asking from salaries that do not affect NMW and them to be at work by a specific time, such those that do. In general we are advising as 8.45am, is not. If you require an assistant salons not to make any deductions from pay to be in 30 minutes before the salon opens to packets unless you are 100 per cent certain prepare for the day, and this is written down that to do so would comply with NMW and enforced, then these 30 minutes are part guidelines. Ignorance is no excuse. of their working hours. Many salons expect their trainees to buy their own tool PLEASE GIVE KEN FEEDBACK kit, but if to do so would take Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com them below minimum wage, then you should provide and

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10/08/2016 10:52

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20/06/2016 14:03

David Cameron resigning as Prime Minister after the EU referendum result

#BusinessEdit

POST-16 SKILLS PLAN IS “GOOD NEWS” THE NHF has welcomed a new Post-16 Skills Plan unveiled by the government, arguing that its blueprint to simplify routes into vocational training and to make them more relevant to the workplace is good news. The Department for Business, Innovation & Skills agreed to recommendations outlined in a review by Lord Sainsbury to scrap the current complicated system, whereby GCSE school leavers wanting to go into technically-based careers are faced with a choice of thousands of qualifications when deciding their next step. Instead, from 2019, there will be just 15 straightforward routes or “pathways” into technical employment. School leavers will choose between an apprenticeship or going to college where their learning will be closely aligned to apprenticeships, include mandatory work placements, and lead to a single nationally recognised certificate for Level 2 and Level 3 qualifications. Hairdressing, barbering and beauty will be one of these 15 pathways.

Tips code “must remain voluntary” SALON OWNERS support government moves for greater transparency on tipping and how tips are treated, but the NHF has warned that imposing compulsory rules on small businesses in the service industries is not the answer. A survey of nearly 300 NHF hairdressing salons, barber shops and beauty salons showed widespread support for a range of measures outlined in a consultation on tipping by the Department for Business, Innovation & Skills. More than three quarters (76 per cent) strongly agreed that businesses should make it clear to clients leaving tips is voluntary. The consultation has proposed either updating the current (2009) voluntary code of practice on tipping or making it compulsory.

SALONS TOLD “DON’T PANIC” IN WAKE OF BREXIT VOTE AMID ALL THE economic and political uncertainty in the wake of the surprise Brexit vote by the UK to leave the European Union, hairdressing and beauty salons and barbershops have been told “don’t panic” by the NHF. NHF president, Agnes Leonard, has highlighted that, while it’s still unclear how the exit process will affect the economy and consumer confidence, the UK hairdressing, barbering and beauty industry is in good shape. She said: “Hairdressing is a global industry but for most salons their market is the high street. To that end, we don’t anticipate leaving the EU will have that much of a direct impact on our industry.” NHF chief executive Hilary Hall added that Brexit has the potential to offer some good news for salon owners and barbershops. “We have been campaigning hard against an EU directive that would impose additional health and safety measures on salons. We estimate that the directive, if implemented, would cost the UK industry around £65m a year. While the NHF is a strong advocate of health and safety in salons, we believe that education and training, with practical support such as the NHF’s ‘health and safety in a box’, is more valuable than legislation,” she explained. “Equally, if the proposals to limit the power of certain items of electrical equipment turns out to include hairdryers after all – despite the NHF’s campaign to exclude them – Brexit means it is unlikely that restrictions will be implemented within the UK.” And, however Brexit panned out, the NHF would maintain close contact with industry colleagues in Europe, Hilary stressed.

NHF CALLS FOR COVENANTS BOOST RESTRICTIVE COVENANTS should be tightened up to prevent an employee from setting up a rival business within five miles of their previous employer for at least six months, the NHF has advised. Currently, so-called “non-compete clauses” or restrictive covenants within a contract normally only prevent a stylist or barber from setting up within half a mile of their former employer for six months after they have left the business. The call by the NHF was made within a government “call for evidence” looking at whether non-compete clauses should be banned from contracts because they stifle entrepreneurship. The NHF argued that in service industries such as hairdressing, the relationship with clients is a key part of a successful business. Too much freedom for former employees to set up a new business on their doorstep, or to work for a nearby competitor and poaching clients could be devastating for an otherwise successful salon or barbershop. A formal consultation process is expected to take place during the autumn.

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 48

48_NHF September.indd 1

CREATIVE HEAD

08/08/2016 17:40

G CU ET ED T T H T G IN E E G E

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OUR FEATURED ARTIST IS GIANNI SCUMACI LIVE FROM 1 OCTOBER

09/08/2016 10:59

#FutureProof

THE

MINIMUM EFFORT

THE NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE IS SET TO INCREASE AGAIN, THE NATIONAL LIVING WAGE HAS COME INTO EFFECT AND THE PENALTIES FOR UNDERPAYING EMPLOYEES ARE MORE SEVERE THAN EVER. THIS MONTH OUR FUTUREPROOF CAMPAIGN TACKLES NMW AND AIMS TO HELP YOU STAY ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF AN INCREASINGLY COMPLEX ISSUE… THIS YEAR, the penalties imposed on employers who underpay their staff in breach of National Minimum Wage (NMW) rules doubled to 200 per cent of arrears owed to workers, with a maximum fine of £20,000 per employee. The National Living Wage (NLW) for all workers aged 25 or above was also introduced in April, including for apprentices who have completed their first year of training. The changes only add to the confusion surrounding NMW, leaving salons open to fines and now to being publicly ‘named and shamed’ by HMRC. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, believes the landscape has become very confusing for salon owners due to the different rates for apprentices aged under 18, 18 to 20, 21 to 24 and now 25 and above. “It’s a perfect storm for salon owners because they typically take on people aged 16 or 17 and often as an apprentice. It means salon owners have

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to know when their workers have birthdays, especially the birthdays that trigger a change in payment rates, including apprentices aged 19 or over who have completed the first year of their apprenticeship,” she explains. According to the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (formerly BIS), which is responsible for implementing NMW and NLW policy (while HMRC carries out business inspections), the objective of the scheme is to raise awareness and deter employers who would otherwise be tempted to break the law. Businesses, particularly salons, depend on word of mouth recommendations and so the department believes the fear of being publicly shamed will be a greater deterrent than that of a fine. “Government names employers who fail to pay the minimum wage to discourage others who may otherwise be tempted to break the law,” says a spokeswoman for BEIS.

CREATIVE HEAD

08/08/2016 17:51

#FutureProof

“The NMW system seems to be ruled without any understanding of how our profession works”

“Bad publicity acts as both a deterrent to employers who would otherwise be tempted not to pay NMW, and as an incentive for all employers to make sure they are consistent with the law.” So if a business is issued with a Notice of Underpayment and the total arrears owed to workers is more than £100, it is eligible to be ‘named and shamed’. But is it about deterring willing lawbreakers, or do we just need clearer messaging? All the salons we spoke to that had been ‘named and shamed’ claimed that they did not purposely fail to pay NMW. The NHF’s Hilary Hall says: “I don’t think salon owners intend to pay their workers less than they are entitled to. After all, the NMW is a legal requirement and was first introduced in 1999, so it’s not new.” “Lack of communication is the biggest problem,” thinks Sally Montague, owner of the Sally Montague Hair Group, which has had two HMRC investigations in less than a year (no fault has been found in either). “Changes to NMW policy seem to occur on a monthly basis and are not communicated to business owners. There needs to be a clear and consistent way in which new rules are put into practice and with enough of a notice period for businesses to make changes. The NMW system seems to be ruled without any understanding of how our profession works.” There’s also the detrimental effect that being ‘named and shamed’ can have on a business, sometimes without chance of rebuttal, as the right to appeal is offered only in exceptional circumstances,

such as a risk of personal harm. “All employers have the opportunity to make an appeal if they feel there are reasons why they shouldn’t be named publicly,” says a spokeswoman for BEIS. And then there’s the surrounding press when companies’ names are revealed. Stories of ‘bad bosses’ who ‘duck out’ of paying the minimum wage and ‘cheat’ their staff are common, but for many businesses, it simply isn’t the case. Steven Gunnip, director of software company Salon Evolution, believes that the naming and shaming scheme may not be the best tactic, as there are always “two sides to a story, one of which is often unheard”. A Creative HEAD poll about naming and shaming, carried out on Twitter, went some way to highlighting what many salon owners feel about the process. An amazing 86 per cent of respondents felt that naming and shaming was ‘too harsh’, and that only repeat offenders should be publically revealed. But while the naming and shaming scheme continues to receive press coverage, salons have to make sure they’re clued up on NMW and NLW legislation. “We can’t continue being known as a lowpay industry that’s seen as a last resort,” says Kay McIntyre, owner of McIntyres Hairdressing. A survey by BIS in 2014 found that one in seven apprentices were not receiving the minimum wage they were entitled to, with 42 per cent of hairdressing apprentices being paid less than the minimum wage, putting the industry firmly in the enforcement spotlight.

CREATIVE HEAD

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10/08/2016 10:15

#FutureProof “Is that the reputation we want for our industry?” asks NHF’s Hilary Hall. “How are we going to attract young people into hairdressing if they see it as a low-paid, dead end job?” So what can salons do to ensure they don’t end up on the government’s next ‘named and shamed’ list? “Understanding your business’s figures are a must to ensure wage increases can be sustained,” says Steven Gunnip. “A scheduled in-salon training programme to help make good use of downtime, look

@misterhaircare

The minimum wage is what it is and salons need to comply rather than find a way around it

“There needs to be a clear and consistent way in which new rules are put into practice and with enough of a notice period for businesses to make changes” at stock take and usage and see if you can save money by switching insurance or utility providers.” Salons also have to be aware that it’s not just about making sure they’re paying their staff the right level of minimum wage, but that they’re doing it consistently. Sally Montague Hair Group has had to cut back the creative opportunities available for its stylists since new NMW rules came in meaning staff on minimum wage now had to be paid for anything classed as work, such as assisting on shoots and training. “Our more senior apprentices used to be offered fantastic opportunities to assist stylists, but now this isn’t feasible as we cannot sustain paying them to attend events,” says owner Sally Montague. “It’s a shame for the young stylists who really want to see what our industry can offer.” The NHF has just released an updated guide to NMW and the National Living Wage, with a section that explains working hours in the context of minimum wage. For example, if you require your employee to arrive 15 minutes before opening, that time needs to be paid, as well as time spent training. “The guide also explains salons need to be careful about taking deductions out of an employee’s salary for things such as uniforms and equipment, as doing so can risk pushing an employee’s pay below the minimum,” explains NHF’s Hilary Hall. If you’d like to make sure you’re paying

THE FACTS THE CURRENT HOURLY NMW RATES ARE:    

FROM OCTOBER 2016, THE RATES WILL BE:    

THE CURRENT HOURLY LIVING WAGE RATE IS: 

CREATIVE HEAD

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08/08/2016 17:52

#FutureProof

@sixthsensesalon

I agree with naming and shaming if the employer has [not paid the correct wages] on purpose

the right amount of minimum wage to your apprentices and employees, the first thing to do is contact Acas, an employer and employee advice organisation. Along with BEIS, it is there to support you, as Emma Hellier Hair and Body Retreat in Bexhill discovered when a former apprentice reported a previous salon of hers for not paying the correct wage.

“The naming and shaming scheme is heavy handed… I think it’s disgusting as it offers no context and the rights of appeal are very narrow” “The apprentice worked for a previous salon I had that was no longer trading,” explains Emma. “I was heavily pregnant when I received a letter from HMRC saying they would be investigating me and I became very stressed. The letter stated inspectors needed to look at six years of records, but I was in no position to go sifting through files for a business that was already closed.” Emma phoned HMRC and explained the situation and found that they “couldn’t have been more helpful”. She says: “All they required was the signed and dated deeds of apprenticeship for the one employee that made the complaint, which wasn’t a problem as I always use the NHF ones. I also forwarded all my email correspondence with the apprentice, setting out hours, wages, training and so on, and it proved I had done nothing wrong.” As we went to print, the next naming and shaming list was on hold as the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy awaits instruction from the new Prime Minister. But if there was ever a time to make sure you’re up to date with paying minimum wage, it’s now.

IT HAPPENED TO ME… One of the Charlie Miller salons in Edinburgh was on HMRC’s ‘named and shamed’ list earlier this year when it failed to pay an employee correctly. Joshua Miller, joint managing director of the salon group, explains: “We had an HMRC inspection during the 2014/15 tax year and it was discovered we were not processing a few things correctly. The mistakes were genuine as we had not understood a recent change in the law properly, and we sought to rectify this quickly and backdate payments to employees. “We did query one case and sought advice from the inspector, but their initial response, which was to pay the apprentice rate to a trainee even though they had completed Level 3 elsewhere, was not correct. The employee reported us and we had to pay them £529.68, which we did. “This is how we ended up on the ‘named and shamed’ list, which caused a lot of negative press for us. Not only have I found the naming and shaming scheme to be heavy handed, but the press release that lists every employer at fault suggests that every firm on it is a bad employer, which is not true. Frankly, I think it’s disgusting as the list offers no context and the rights of appeal are very narrow. “We also discovered you are not allowed to make posttax wage deductions, which we were doing if we had paid for something for the member of staff, such as tickets to a hair event or scissors. HMRC said it understood we were doing it with good intentions as we wanted to support staff by helping them with cashflow by paying off a trip to a hair event and so on. But ultimately, and as a way of protecting staff wages, it’s not allowed. While we were not fined for this, we did need to repay all amounts ever deducted, which we did, but then the staff had to repay the amount immediately back to us.”

NEXT MONTH: CHAIR RENTAL

ARE YOUR FREELANCERS TRULY SELF-EMPLOYED? HAVE YOU BEEN CAUGHT OUT? TELL US NOW…

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@creativeheadmag

CREATIVE HEAD

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08/08/2016 17:52

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26/07/2016 11:53

Public School

Charles Youssef

THE CITY: NEW YORK

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Jenny Packham

Libertine

Jason Wu

At Libertine, Thomas Osborn for Catwalk by TIGI scattered mismatched hair clips on the backs of models’ heads for a look that was suitably wild for the free-spirited fashion brand. The humble ponytail has been firmly at the centre of a few seasons now and New York continued the tradition. Guido for ghd and Redken kept it classic with a hint of a kink at Victoria Beckham, the simple look was also seen at Kaelen, by Joseph DiMaggio for Davines. At Charles Youssef the relaxed ponytails created by Antoinette Beenders and the Aveda team were almost falling out; at Public School, Allen Ruiz for Aveda created loose ponytails that doubled as faux bobs. For a more intricate look that suited an elegant collection of flowing dresses at Leanne Marshall, Jon Reyman for Aveda created ponytails that were woven together at the nape. Sometimes less is more – and that was the case for waves at NYFW, Paul Hanlon for Moroccanoil created a gentle bend in the hair at the temple for the Jason Wu show. At Jenny Packham, Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri for Aveda parted the hair and used a tong to create movement on one side.

CREATIVE HEAD

Leanne Marshall

Jason Wu

DELVE INTO THE A/W16 SHOWS FROM THE FOUR FASHION CAPITALS OF THE WORLD FOR INSPIRATION TO TAKE TO CLIENTS AND BEYOND

Jenny Packham

CTIES OF THE W:RLD… URITE! A/W16 FA S H I O N

09/08/2016 17:03

Sophia Webster

Rejina Pyo

Paul Costelloe

Alexander McQueen House of Holland

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Teatum Jones

London is often thought of as the edgiest of the four fashion weeks, and this was most obvious in the fringes. At House of Holland, Cos Sakkas for label.m gave models messy, DIY-style fringes, while Sam Burnett and the KMS California team gave Sophia Webster’s fantasy Beetlejuice-like brides’ jagged, asymmetric looks in contrast with their floating gowns. This season the swinging ’60s also made a return to London. The iconic beehive was recreated by Maria Kovacs for Catwalk by TIGI at PPQ, complete with a long side ponytail, and at Paul Costelloe, Cos Sakkas for label.m created baby beehives, backcombed and matted with a slightly, lived-in greasy texture. At Rejina Pyo, each girl’s hair was “amped up” by David Wadlow for Bumble and bumble using BaByliss PRO styling tools, to create covetable texture. Alexander McQueen returned to London for A/W16 and the hair, styled by Guido for Redken, was enchanting, with jewelled broaches nestled in wayward strands. Jewellery also featured at Erdem, where Anthony Turner for Bumble and bumble gave a nod to the ’30s with brooches nestled in rolls at the nape. Buns were worn messy and high, as styled by Antonio Corral Calero for Moroccanoil at the Temperley London show, or even at the front of the head as styled by Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO at Fyodor Golan. Bianca Tuovi for Bumble and bumble sewed grids onto the hair at Teatum Jones for a graphic look.

Temperley London

PPQ

THE CITY: LONDON

CREATIVE HEAD

09/08/2016 16:56

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK Don't miss the coolest styles set to land in your salon this A/W16 with TIGI's guide to the transcendent trends of the catwalks

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Jonathan Simkhai

Mood changer THE LOOK: ‘Undone’ doesn’t mean ‘unstyled’. Preparation is key to achieving perfect texture, as seen at Jonathan Simkhai. THE PRODUCT: Catwalk by TIGI Texturising Salt Spray. CLIENTS WILL LOVE: The loose, modern texture that Texturising Salt Spray creates, allowing them to change the feeling of their hairstyle at a spritz.

TRENDING ON Come as you are THE LOOK: Get a ’90s vibe with polished hair and extreme partings, as seen at Christopher Raeburn. THE PRODUCTS: Go smooth and sleek with Catwalk by TIGI Blow-Out Balm and Haute Iron Spray. Or let soft waves channel ’90s grunge with Catwalk by TIGI Strong Hold Mousse and Catwalk by TIGI Hairista. CLIENTS WILL LOVE: The update to effortless styling, achieved with the right products – just make sure you’re the one giving them those bottles!

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Rewind THE LOOK: Head back to the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;60s as the bouffant gets modernised, as seen at PPQ. THE PRODUCTS: Catwalk by TIGI Root Boost and Catwalk by TIGI Work It Hairspray. CLIENTS WILL LOVE: A bouffant with a contemporary twist. Root Boost and Work It Hairspray are perfect partners for root lift that lasts.

THE RUNWAY

The four key A/W16 looks and why your clients are going to love them

Libertine

Sugar and spice

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THE LOOK: The playful, sweet girl who uses hair accessories to change her look according to her mood, as seen at Libertine. THE PRODUCTS: To create these fun looks, hair needs a good foundation. Use Catwalk by TIGI Transforming Dry Shampoo to refresh and invigorate the hair for laidback styling. CLIENTS WILL LOVE: The strong embellishments from the shows as they are so easy to emulate with the right take-home products.

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s e v a w S m o o t h & & s l e e k s l r Cu

MODERN-DAY

MUSES

You've seen the trends; now make them your own with Catwalk by TIGI

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Volume & body FASHION CAN OFTEN seem to be the preserve of the elites – something to be admired from afar but rarely emulated. But backstage is another story entirely. The hair and beauty teams work tirelessly to create a look that is complementary to the clothes yet still wearable. Of all the trends hitting the catwalks, hair looks are what people want most, because of their accessibility. This is why the TIGI Creative Team is always right there at the shows each season, getting an insider view so that it can create wearable, trend-led styles your clients will love. “Following trend development each season and using it as inspiration is crucial for every hairdresser,” says Maria Kovacs, European session director for TIGI. “It’s important to appreciate a woman who follows fashion; who

Texture wants her hair to be on trend without overtaking her clothes or making an understatement. Catwalk by TIGI ensures her hair is always fashionable.” Product testing is another huge part of why the TIGI Creative Team heads backstage each season. “Our products are put through the ultimate test before they make it onto the salon floor: they are used in the high-pressure backstage environment of fashion week, where creation is stretched to its limits,” explains Maria. For A/W16, the TIGI Creative Team has collated all of its backstage knowledge to create the Catwalk Modern Classics collection, helping you to understand how to deliver what your clients want. From a smooth, sleek finish to a soft, tousled wave, these effortlessly cool looks transcend the catwalks.

For more information about Catwalk by TIGI or to find out more about TIGI’s Session Course, email session.team@tigihaircare.com

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THEY’LL NEVER L The backstage-tested products from Catwalk by TIGI are all you need to create the looks from the Catwalk Modern Classics collection for your clients

CATWALK BY TIGI HAIRISTA Smooth, sleek styles require healthylooking hair – something split ends can easily ruin. But Hairista is a prepping emulsion that seals split ends and evens out the hair fibre surface to give a smooth finish from roots to tips.

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CATWALK BY TIGI STRONG HOLD MOUSSE

CATWALK BY TIGI CURLS ROCK AMPLIFIER

Kick-start curl and wave creation with this moisturising, strong hold mousse. With styling polymers to lift and add body and conditioning ingredients to smooth, this powerful formula gives your client’s style real strength.

The specifically designed formula used in Curls Rock Amplifier features humidity protecting, style-setting polymers to help sculpt and define curls and waves, enhancing hair’s natural texture, for long-lasting hold.

CATWALK BY TIGI ROOT BOOST SPRAY This targeted spray creates volume and height where hair needs it most – the roots. With structuring styling polymers to help deliver lift, dramatic volume is created perfectly from the roots, giving a smooth, conditioned finish.

09/08/2016 17:08

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CATWALK BY TIGI BODIFYING SPRAY

CATWALK BY TIGI BLOW OUT BALM

CATWALK BY TIGI HAUTE IRON SPRAY

Essential for a bold, voluminous blowout, Catwalk by TIGI Bodifying Spray contains a complex cocktail of styling polymers to amplify shape and lightly condition the hair, resulting in thicker, fuller hair with a soft, touchable finish.

This intense, conditioning formula seals and aligns the hair surface providing a smooth foundation, perfect for creating a sleek blow-dry. Hair is protected against frizz and flyaways and is touchably soft with a gorgeous finish.

Heat protection is vital for maintaining hair health and the conditioning elements active in this spray protect straight, sleek styles, defending the cuticle layer against heat damage. The spray also includes shine-enhancing ingredients.

CATWALK BY TIGI TEXTURISING SALT SPRAY

CATWALK BY TIGI TRANSFORMING DRY SHAMPOO

Create beachy, seaspun waves with this new salt spray. It gives pliable hold and control, while protecting against the effects of humidity. Hydrated and protected from frizz, hair has an effortlessly tousled texture.

Guaranteed to make any hairstyle last at least one more day, this new dry shampoo absorbs oils, grease and odours, effectively refreshing and cleansing the hair to create an effortlessly conditioned look.

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

R LET YOU DOWN

09/08/2016 11:56

n a m o w y r e v e t a h t r i a h r For ready-to-wea I IG T y b k l a w t a C e wants, it's got to b Put your own stamp on the A/W16 catwalk trends with Catwalk by TIGI. To find out more, call 0844 844 0944 or visit catwalkbytigi.com

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Dolce & Gabbana

Kendall Jenner and Guido at Bottega Veneta Versace

THE CITY: MILAN

Acne

Maria Kovacs at Iris Van Herpen

Black hairbands were the talk of Milan – Guido for Redken gave models subtle, thin bands at Versace that sat forward on the head on top of casual, loose waves. Meanwhile Guido chose dramatic Alice bands with huge bows and contrasting faux fringes at Dolce & Gabbana. At Prada, he paired a wet texture with classic curls to give romance an edgy turn. At Bottega Veneta, the up-dos were simple enough that the models, including a certain Kendall Jenner, could have styled the knots themselves. Guido for Redken began with a sleek blow-dry before twisting the hair into a messy bun.

SEE MORE trends from A/W16 Fashion Weeks around the world in Runway, free with this issue

Iris Van Herpen

THE CITY: PARIS

It wouldn’t be Paris Fashion Week without sheer beauty. Maria Kovacs for Catwalk by TIGI did it with a wet look for models at Iris Van Herpen, before separating hair into strips and pulling them back into a glossy, graphic ponytail that complemented the clothes. And a star-studded Balmain show saw many of fashion’s most famous faces walk down the runway, with topsy-turvy hair colours. Gigi Hadid, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Lily Donaldson both went over to the dark side, while Kendall Jenner, Alessandra Ambrosio and Karlie Kloss shone as bright blondes with Balmain Paris Hair Couture wigs styled by Sam McKnight and coloured by Nabil Harlow. Wella Professionals global creative director, Eugene Souleiman, took unlikely inspiration from hat hair for the Acne show – models looked as if they had just pulled off a beanie to reveal their dishevelled, flattened hair, swept to the side and squashed to accentuate the shape.

CREATIVE HEAD

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09/08/2016 16:57

Balmain Paris Hair Couture, hair by Balmain Master Hair Designer Nabil Harlow, photography by Terry Tsiolis

EXTENSIONS

steps to s n o i s n e t x e heaven

Demand for extensions is growing faster than ever. From length, volume, texture and risk-free colour to trialling new looks, hair additions can generate a real buzz among your guests and your staff. Let us get you startedâ&#x20AC;Ś

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Step 1

Step 2

Extensions have to be done right, so make sure you choose the best brand to work with – think about practicalities and make sure you test it out. “Before taking on an extensions brand, take time to check the hair and if possible work with it a bit before committing,” suggests Rebecca Lennon, senior stylist and Gold Class extensions head at Daniel Galvin. “Understand where the hair comes from – only by working with it yourself will you see the quality. Be sure to get to know the people behind the brand too and see their passion towards hair extensions.”

If you decide to stock extensions, you’ll need to invest time and money in making sure your staff have the skills and knowledge. “Training and education is the key to success,” explains Salv Mulé, group salon director of Academy Salons, which uses Balmain Paris Hair Couture extensions. “All of our courses are extremely intensive and use live models to ensure the student has a hands-on understanding of the application technique and so that they leave feeling confident,” says Nikki Alonzi, creative director at CrownCouture Hair Extensions.

Find the right brand for you

Knowledge is power

Step 3

Many clients can be wary of extensions, but they have come a long way in recent years and it’s up to you to prove this. “We always refer to them as ‘additions’ rather than extensions as this seems to take the concern and worry away from clients,” says Salv. “On our price list we present extensions as a volumising service and chemical-free colour – and they’re usually hooked. Hair additions are the fourth service in the salon now!” “The best way to market hair extensions is through social media,” adds Nikki Alonzi. “We find Instagram is becoming the most popular – it is a great visual platform to promote your services. By increasing social media activity, you get more people looking at, and talking about, your hair extensions and the level of service being offered by your salon.”

CrownCouture

Show clients the awesome

BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE HALF WIG

Step 4

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balmainhair.com

Use clip art Open the gateway to extensions with clip-in pieces. “Clip-ins are a great way to introduce customers to hair extensions before the commitment of a more permanent method,” says Victoria Lynch, founder of Remi Cachet. “They are also an essential tool to add volume quickly for brides and other special occasion hairdos.” Remi Cachet Clip In Deluxe is available in 30 different colours, including ombre and mixed colours for a natural look. The Balmain Paris Hair Couture Half Wig is a quick way to add volume, and it can be attached within seconds, while the brands signature ponytail was first introduced in the ’70s and made a stunning entrance at the S/S16 Balmain show in Paris, thanks to Balmain Master Hair Designer, Nabil Harlow.

CREATIVE HEAD

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REMI CACHET CLIP IN DELUXE

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Step 5

Offer an irresistible package Some salons go one step further and come up with ways of making their extension services a unique selling point. “We offer a ‘hair additions’ package that includes consultation, application, blow-dry and aftercare,” says Salv. “This works well as it ensures that the most effective care is given.” “Customers struggle with a large bill every few months, and they aren’t always the best at coming in for their routine maintenance,” admits Phil Jackson, manager at Bravo Hair. “To combat both this, we extended our award-winning Club Bravo scheme to cover hair extensions as well – you pay a monthly membership for unlimited service. It includes two full sets of extensions per year and all the recommended maintenance.” Or how about creating a separate area for extensions? “Hippy Club is a bespoke salon created in the basement of our Bold Street salon,” explains Louise Smith, creator of Hippy Hair and artistic director at Voodou in Liverpool. “It looks like a front room straight out of the ’70s, it’s a really relaxed environment.”

Step 6

Reach retail heaven!

Remi Cachet

You can continue to make money by selling extensions-specific aftercare. “Even 100 per cent human hair extensions no longer receive the essential oils from the scalp that keeps the hair healthy. Aftercare is therefore a little different from your everyday products,” explains Inanch Emir, founder of Gold Class. Balmain Paris Hair Couture human hair extensions come with a six-month guarantee if they are used with the brand’s aftercare – the Revitalizing Care Gift Box is a great package to start with. Remi Cachet’s haircare range focuses on introducing a long-term regime to help clients get the most out of their extensions. After using the shampoo and the conditioner, clients can use the Hair Oil and Miracle Mist to fight against breakage and maintain gorgeous lengths. The brand has launched a gift set to ensure clients have everything they need to keep those lengths looking lovely!

REMI CACHET GIFT SET

RRP £50

additionallengths.co.uk 70

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REMI CACHET HAIR CARE RANGE

RRP FROM £6

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BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE REVITALIZING CARE GIFT BOX

RRP £69

balmainhair.com CREATIVE HEAD

09/08/2016 11:15

Layered mag:Remi Cachet 05/01/2016 09:13 Page 1

Gorgeous hair is a choice. Ask your #RCStylist about our range of luxury human hair extensions in different application methods. Find your nearest #RCStylist on our website.

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LEGENDS of the FALL Enter a fantastic fable full of colour and creativity with Antoinette Beenders and the Aveda A/W16 collection, Folklor PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY HANDS CREATIVE HEAD

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SEE MORE from the shoot. Visit creativeheadmag.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR Antoinette Beenders, Aveda global creative director; Ian Michael Black, Aveda artistic director, hair colour; Ricardo Dinis, Aveda artistic director, hair cutting; Allen Ruiz, Aveda artistic director, hair styling; Jo McKay, Aveda European technical hair specialist; Yuji Okawa, Aveda Japan master colourist; Bea Watson, Aveda educator, hair styling; Dylan Sit, creative director of Civello Salon Spa, Canada and Aveda Purefessional team member. MAKE-UP Janell Geason, Aveda artistic director.

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CREATIVE HEAD

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DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM SHOWGIRLS IN EARLY CINEMA AND DESIGNERS SUCH AS DIOR, MCQUEEN AND ANN DEMEULEMEESTER, THE RADIO ARTISTIC TEAM FUSES REALITY AND FANTASY IN ‘METAMORPHOSIS’

PHOTOGRAPHY BY YUVAL HEN CREATIVE HEAD

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CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR AND CONCEPT Radio London Artistic Team, using Bumble and bumble. MAKE-UP Martina Lattanzi. STYLING Nicholas Vallechi. LEARN MORE about the collection and watch the video online, visit creativeheadmag.com/education

CREATIVE HEAD

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11/08/2016 10:10

FAI R PAY

We fight for you on key issues that affect our industry to get your voice heard • Apprentices • Business rates • National Minimum Wage • National Living Wage • Employment law • European directives • Chair renting • State registration • VAT • Auto-enrolment for pensions

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James Brown

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

Nicola Clarke

Scene ALWAYS EN

vogue THE COTERIE popped up in Leeds for a packed event at the chic Bar Soba, in association with BaByliss PRO. Taking to the stage first with Creative HEAD editor, Amanda Nottage, was James Brown, the boy from Croydon who struck up a friendship with one of his sister’s pals called Kate (whose surname happened to be Moss). James landed his first Vogue cover at 22, moved to New York for a decade, launched a product line that was one of Boots’s fastest selling ranges and was in Channel 4’s Great British Hairdresser to help young hopefuls while using the platform to change public perceptions of the industry. Next up, Nicola Clarke detailed her long working relationship with Sam McKnight, and she now counts “all the Kates” (Moss, Bosworth, Winslet, and Cate Blanchett) among her regular clientele. She is a veritable movie veteran (having cut her teeth on The Beach alongside Leonardo DiCaprio), creative colour director at John Frieda group and for Color Wow products and a total red carpet pro. Following all that insight, guests went home with a BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Tong to get their curl on!

CREATIVE HEAD

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11/08/2016 10:14

Shane Bennett

Irene Meikel

Shane Bennett

SET IN THE breathtaking Guildhall London – which dates back to the 11th Century and the reign of Edward the Confessor – the Goldwell Summer Party was something truly memorable. Following cocktails and heaps of canapes, abut 450 guests from across the country made their way into the Great Hall to be welcomed by Mark Giannandrea, the general manager of Kao Salon Division UK, and Goldwell’s head of education, Irene Meikel. To celebrate its 40th birthday, KMS California staged a beautiful show from Hare & Bone’s Sam Burnett, member of the KMS Global Style Council, which was swiftly followed by a spectacular presentation from Goldwell UK Guest Artist, Shane Bennett. Then it was on to the reveal of the UK winners, all three of whom will go on to compete at the international final in Stockholm in October. So everyone had reason to party down in the crypts until late – see you in Sweden!

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Shane Bennett

Confess ALL

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Sam Burnett Sam Burnett Sam Burnett

Georgia Wild

Sam Burnett

Mark Giannandrea Charlotte Boyle

And the winners areâ&#x20AC;¦ NEW TALENT CATEGORY GOLD: Georgia Wild, Iconic Hairdressing SILVER: Georgia Maynard, Riccio Hair Design BRONZE: Charlie Lathbury, Oracle Hair & Beauty

Abby Whittaker

CREATIVE COLORIST CATEGORY

CREATIVE HEAD

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GOLD: Charlotte Boyle, Gloss SILVER: Sam Pullen, Headromance BRONZE: Paul Grocock, Toxic Cherry

PARTNER CATEGORY GOLD: Abby Whittaker, Sarah Hodge Hairdressing

11/08/2016 10:16

A RECORD 80,000 Chinese hair professionals packed out the 11th Asian Hairdesigner Festival for two full-on days of shows, competitions and seminars at the CECIS exhibition centre in Shanghai. While Creative HEAD publisher, Catherine Handcock, led an international jury in the popular cut, colour and perm competitions, top salon groups from across the region – including Hong Kong’s Chinology, Malaysia’s A Cut Above, South Korea’s Kerker and Australia’s Clip Joint – delivered vibrant, often avant-garde shows in the state-of-the-art theatre. Electric Hairdressing flew the British flag, leading two sell-out seminars as well as delivering a London Fashion Week-inspired presentation on the Grand Final mainstage. Meanwhile, trade was brisk on a bustling exhibition floor featuring leading names such as YS Park, Solis and KeraStraight. Men’s grooming is also on the rise in China right now, with barbershop concept Dragon Nine (think fades, moustaches, leather sofas and Takara Belmont chairs) attracting big crowds.

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Competition winners

High RISE

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Electric Hairdressing

Clip Joint

A Cut Above

Kerker

Chinology

CREATIVE HEAD

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Maria Comparetto

Lauren Murphy

Prize winner Ryan Steedman

Darren Fowler Aaron Carlo

Ateh Jewel

MIXED

media IT WAS A blockbuster Coterie back in London, focusing on hair on film, TV and music video sets. An all-star cast of panellists debated everything from the future of static editorial shoots, the impact of instantaneous video via social media and just how regulated and demanding movie work can be. That panel included session stylist Darren Fowler, who admitted a lighting director can “ruin or improve your work in a second”, while Little Mix’s stylist Aaron Carlo explained how tricky music videos are as “everything is always shot out of sync”. Film producer Ateh Jewel admitted: “In video, it’s all about the details… details and recognising the money shot!” The key to staying on top? “It’s all about communication,” said make-up artist, Maria Comparetto. “It’s true,” agreed fellow make-up artist Lauren Murphy, “you all need to have the same vision.” Guests enjoyed a fabulous goodie bag from sponsor Revlon Professional, whose brand ambassadors include some rather well known Hollywood faces such as Halle Berry and Emma Stone. And there was a prize Flip HD video camera to one lucky attendee, too, thanks to Revlon Professional – perfect for shooting their own hair videos!

CREATIVE HEAD

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Future stylist to princesses everyw here

Backst age at Graduate Fashion Week with co-lead Lisa Rhead and Alesha Dixon #effort less

Demo time at #GFW!

In the

Addin g a touch of the '70s on our Ru mours shoot

frame Andrea Daley, from Liverpool’s Barbara Daley Hair, takes us backstage at Graduate Fashion Week and beyond…

Styling on location

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

This happens wherever I go!

Getting artistic on our petrified receptionist!

Mirror selfie! It can be a hard life being a model… Casually hanging out with our art tea m

Planni ng for this year's birthda y celebrations – how to top our 25th? 90

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After a long day, someti mes a rooftop drink is just what you need CREATIVE HEAD

09/08/2016 11:28

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