Creative HEAD April 2019

£4.50 APRIL 2019

In print•online•everywhere!

APRIL 2019 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

STAND WITH ME

Peace, love and beautiful hair

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But don’t you think you deserve some of that feelgood factor for yourself, your team and your salon?

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Granted, there’s not a great amount of joy in the world right now, but as a salon owner you’re in a privileged position – you have the power to make people look and feel fabulous. And that’s amazing, right? it’s One of the reasons you do your job in the first place. But don’t you think you deserve some of that feel-good factor for yourself, your team and your salon?

When you choose Paul Mitchell, you get more than just high-performing products. You’re supporting a brand that believes in giving back. Over the years, Paul Mitchell has donated millions to philanthropic causes, from environmental protection to children’s charities and human rights. But the brand doesn’t just give with its cheque book – it mobilises the entire Paul Mitchell community to get involved and lend a hand. You get to be part of a culture that’s helping to change the world, one good deed at a time.

@salonsuccessuk

me.

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Live Beautifully The Paul Mitchell mission is (and always will be) dedicated to making our world a more beautiful place.

The brand believes in doing good for people and the planet – and now’s the time to join in the pay it forward movement. #GivingIsMyStyle 01CoverTemplate2.indd 6

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MIGHTY l a m i n a o N . g n i t s e t , e v a h r e v Ne never will.

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BRIGHT Paul Mitchell Forever Blonde Dramatic Repair Lightweight yet powerful, this multi-tasking corrector spray specifically targets the needs of lightened and highlighted hair.

Loaded with KerActive protein, safflower oleosomes and macadamia nut oil, it penetrates, repairs and moisturises weakened hair, leaving it smoother and stronger, with gorgeous-looking results every time.

RRP ÂŁ8.10 / 25ml RRP ÂŁ18.75 / 150ml

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L L E H C T I M L PAU S R E T S A M D A E H n i – r e w Girl Porld of Paul the wo ll Mitche

s n a e m t tha , y t i l a origin , y t i c i t n autheity, creativ nce and confidety. diversi

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PAUL MITCHELL HEADMASTERS

Girl Power – in the world of Paul Mitchell that means originality, authenticity, creativity, confidence and diversity.

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SHIELD Paul Mitchell Neuro Protect HeatCTRL Iron Hairspray Exclusive HeatCTRL technology provides advanced protection from styling irons and thermal tools, reducing the rate of heat transfer from roots to ends. Shine and hold agents also help resist humidity and block out frizz.

RRP ÂŁ9.95 / 50ml RRP ÂŁ21.95 / 205ml

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Headmasters creative director, Andrew Barton, is famous for creating iconic hair imagery for campaigns and for sharing his passion for the hairdressing industry with audiences around the globe.

The bold statement looks he fashioned here using Paul Mitchell haircare are in keeping with the Headmasters ethos of beautiful, fashionable, confidence-boosting hair.

Says Andrew: “There’s a great fit for us at Headmasters with our clients and Paul Mitchell, and it’s framed by the two big pillars that the Paul Mitchell brand is all about – its ethical values and its environmentallyfriendly stance. And what we’re finding is that as clients become more sophisticated in their tastes, they’re demanding so much more from the hair products they use, including the need to tick the boxes on social and environmental concerns. from us hair professionals, they look for expert advice, while Paul Mitchell gives them what they need and want as conscientious consumers.”

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& T A E GR D O O G E H T #GivingIsMyStyle

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BOOM in l l e h c it M l u a P d in f You won’t g in k a t , s t is m e h c r o s t e supermark t a h T . s n o l a s m o r f y a business aw n io s r e iv d n e e b s a h e is unless ther h ic h w in , in a h c y l p p u in the s e ic l o p o o p m a h s e h t d n case we se s t c u d o r p l l e h c it M l u a round! All P . l a n io s s e f o r p y l u r t e r a 01CoverTemplate2.indd 15

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BODY Paul Mitchell Invisiblewear Undone Texture Hairspray Delivering instant texture with natural-looking volume, this lightweight hairspray adds life to flat hair for a natural-looking finish with touchable hold.

RRP ÂŁ17.75 / 239ml

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“Paul Mitchell is quite personal to me because they were the first-ever products I touched as a trainee hairdresser – that was my experience of what hair products felt like and what they did to hair. Now, as creative director of Headmasters, it’s great that I can share the creativity and vision of those products with the Headmasters teams and their wider networks, and also share the quality and innovation and excitement of Paul Mitchell with the Headmasters clientele, who want the very best and want products that are going to transform how their hair looks and feels. So there’s a big love heart sign here about how it all connects brilliantly together!”

Andrew Barton, creative director, Headmasters

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Photography by Alexander Jordan. Hair by Andrew Barton, creative director at Headmasters, and Gareth Williams and Jonathan Soons for the Headmasters Creative Team.

Assisted by James Davies, Rachel Todisco, Joe Hill and Nicky Televantou for Paul Mitchell. Make-up by Tricia Woolston assisted by Laura Street. Fashion by Holly Coopey @ Frank

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#GivingIsMyStyle 18/03/2019 11:14

PEACE, LOVE AND BEAUTIFUL HAIR

Giving back has always been part of Paul Mitchell style! Whether that means taking steps toward sustainability, helping families in need or supporting under-served kids, It believes in doing good for people, animals and our planet, and it knows its fans do too. Join the Paul Mitchell global family on social media and share why you think it’s important to give back or how you’re making a difference with #GivingIsMyStyle.

Paul Mitchell is distributed in the UK exclusively by Salon Success. To discover more about this pioneering, campaigning brand, call Salon Success on 0845 659 0011 or email us at hello@salon-success.co.uk

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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE

EDUCATION

EVENTS

INSPIRATION

CREATIVE HEAD STORE

COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

Tribal tartan and pride in diversity – heritage and innovation collide in Scots Hair Design’s latest collection, ‘Unity’

The Karbon Kyd himself, Wella Colour Creative Jayson Gray, talks about his colour apothecary and onstage mishaps, exclusively at Creative HEAD Video

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More than 200 savvy salon owners and managers made the time for change at Salon Smart 2019. Catch up with all the inspiring action now

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As a tidal wave of global colour trends hits UK shores, just how much of its influence is making its way into the modern men’s styling?

@creativeheadmag

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BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles.

Find out more @BaBylissPROUK

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Editor’s letter

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66 52 JOIN US!

“HERE COMES THE SUN, doo doo doo doo…” Now is the time to prep for the influx of client illumination, so check out our round-up of blonde brilliance (page 40). We examine the huge advancements made in helping clients go and stay blonde – from in-salon bond protectors to blonding agents that lift higher, cleaner and faster, new techniques to create modern, fresh-looking blondes and aftercare that keeps lighter shades looking brighter for longer. Your services, finishes and bottom line should be shining afterwards! And speaking of shining, we have been dazzled by our 2018 It List winners, a stellar line-up of young stars whose careers have only gotten brighter since they were crowned. Find out how from page 52… and then turn to page 30 to check out all the 2019 Most Wanted and It List Award categories, and get prepping your entries as we have two new awards for your perusual – Independent Stylist and Best New Boutique Salon – so there’s more choice than ever. And just think, it might be you in these pages in 2020!

Amanda Nottage Editor

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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What are you doing on Monday 20 May? The answer should be, attending The Coterie: In Session! Captivating conversation will meet live hair work and this time the focus is centred firmly on MEN. See pages 3435 for more information.

Now, we hope you’re already busy beavering away with your Most Wanted and The It List 2019 entries but if not, fear not – you still have time!

Bookmark creativeheadmag. com/mostwanted and creativeheadmag.com/theitlist and head to pages 30-33 for a full list of the categories available. It’s time to step up and stand out… good luck!

@creativeheadmag

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QUEEN OF THE SCENE Stand out from the crowd and rule your retail this season with summer’s hottest lineup: the ghd festival collection. #queenofthescene #ghdfestival

LONG LIVE GOOD HAIR DAYS

Available for a limited time only – to become a stockist, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400.

April

WHAT’S INSIDE 52

THE IT LIST FASHION

Tony Haresign and Allan Stone keep it slick in Mr. Q

Our winners from 2018 share how their lives have changed since that victorious night in September

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ON THE COVER Hair by Andrew Barton, creative director at Headmasters, and Gareth Williams and Jonathan Soons for the Headmasters Creative Team. Photography by Alexander Jordan

FREE INSID E

MISTER QUARTERLY

American Crew celebrates its UK All Star Challenge finalists and the seanhanna team paints the town

EDITOR

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DEPUTY EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

ART DIRECTOR

DIGITAL ASSISTANT

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

DIGITAL DESIGNER

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA NICK JABBAL EVA VESTMANN

ADAM WOOD

ANNA SAMSON KELSEY DRING

DAVID HAMMOND JENNY BROOKS

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

ALISON ROWLEY

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Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

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The edit

THE NATIONAL AUDIT Office (NAO) has warned that the government’s apprenticeship budget is at risk and is ultimately financially unsustainable. The news comes after the average cost of training an apprentice hit double what was initially predicted. In December, the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education estimated that the apprenticeships budget for England, which is currently £2.2bn, could be overspent by £500m in 2018/2019, rising to £1.5bn of overspend in 2021/22.

The report warned that some employers are replacing professional development programmes, such as graduate schemes that they would previously have funded themselves, with apprenticeships in order to ‘absorb’ public funding.

It also stated that there are risks the apprenticeship programme is ‘subsidising training that would have happened without government funding’, and concludes that ‘given these concerns, the department has some way to go before it can demonstrate that the programme is achieving value for money and that resources are being used to best effect’.

Alan Woods OBE, chief executive of training provider VTCT, said that the availability of apprenticeships is a key workforce development opportunity for all employers, big or small. “An all-out push to maximise the engagement of all employers – extensive promotion to young people while still at school and an easily understandable and consistent funding programme – will address many of the issues the NAO raise,” he argued.

Said Rubaii

AUDIT OFFICE WARNS APPRENTICE BUDGET IS ‘UNSUSTAINABLE’

Hester Wernert-Rijn

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

Authentic Beauty Concept makes waves in Berlin HENKEL INVITED MEMBERS of the press from around the world to Berlin to experience the ethos and inspiration behind Authentic Beauty Concept, a free-from and vegan haircare range that launches in the UK this summer.

Global creative advocate of Authentic Beauty Concept, Hester Wernert-Rijn from the Netherlands, was on hand to style models, alongside New Yorkbased celebrity stylist Linda Shalabi. Said Rubaii, founder of Said Rubaii Hairstyling in Berlin, also shared insight into authentic Berlin style and how this is reflected in his salon. As part of the authentic beauty movement, there was also the opportunity to learn more about the Authentic Beauty Concept Momento, an in-salon treatment that goes beyond a hair wash to offer a mindful salon experience, incorporating Bluetooth headphones with a choice of playlists and a gel eye mask for total relaxation.

Headlining this summer is the limited edition Festival Collection from ghd, featuring a kaleidoscope of colours that energises the Platinum+ and Gold stylers and the Air hairdryer with a rainbow vibe. ghdhair.com

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KH Hair mental health drive East Midlands-based salon chain KH Hair is rolling out mental health training across its 21 salons and academy, with the aim of raising awareness and challenging stigma around mental health. Beginning with a half-day introductory course developed by Mental Health First Aid England and delivered by St John Ambulance, the scheme aims to teach salon owners how to spot signs of distress and how to effectively start that first supportive conversation. “Mental health issues aren’t just prevalent among the young, so this initiative will hopefully help to break down any barriers for anyone, regardless of age, who needs our help,” said joint managing director Darren Messias.

SKP REVEALS YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL HAS announced the members of the Young Artistic Team for 2019/20.

The squad consists of (pictured above, clockwise from left): Molly Drummond (Hooker & Young, Ponteland), Mitchell Gough (Hensmans, Northampton), Olivia Bullivant (En Route, Wakefield), Sophie Perfect (Options, Chelmsford), Justine Weir (Tweedie & Marshall, Falkirk), and Stephanie Stevens (Daniel Granger, Northampton). They’ve started the year with a three-day team-building workshop at Billi Currie salon.

£378.51

is the average amount women spent on haircuts last year, according to Statista’s annual report on the cosmetics and personal care industry. Colour (£284.70), blow-drys (£267.22) and styling (£258.50) followed, while men spent an average £329.77 on haircuts last year.

Dizziak

Afro hair searches up

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ONLINE CONSUMER SEARCHES for salons catering for Afro hair increased by 90 per cent in the UK between June 2017 and June 2018, illustrating the business potential for salons to increase their income by ensuring they offer inclusive hair services and care products for all hair types.

The report, Diversifying Hair Care by Pretty Analytics and using Google Trends, also found a 51 per cent rise in the number of videos online focused on the topic of black natural haircare.

MY month

AHEAD What April has in store for...

GARY TAYLOR EDWARD & CO.

I’ll be getting ready for (and recovering from) our salon’s big party on 6 April! This year the Taylor family is celebrating being in business for 100 years, thanks to five generations of hairdressers.

We reckon we’ve delivered more than three million cuts, not bad for a family business!

SARA HOLMES

STUART HOLMES SALON

I’m still buzzing from Salon Smart, where I took part in A Great Debate: Time for a Change. It was wonderful to share such an incredible event with inspirational leaders in our industry. Soon Easter will be upon us, which for us as a salon is the second busiest period after Christmas, so we are ready and waiting for the rush!

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Zoë Irwin has joined John Frieda Salons as creative director.

Affinage has revealed its new Colour Rebels Artistic Team for 2019/20.

They are: Georgia Bell, Aimee Goodwin, Victoria Lee, Nicki Mehta, Terri Nadin, Abbie Salmon and Adam Thomas.

Dafydd Thomas has been promoted to the role of global head of education at ghd.

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Spirit Lights from ASP Affinage Salon Professional lightens up to three levels, while four pigments deliver bespoke tones. It’s available in introductory kits, too!

Take au naturel to new heights with JOICO’s LumiShine Natural Warm series of nude glow shades that are universally flattering and radiant – available in permanent and demipermanent crème, and demi-permanent liquid color.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 071 2326 joico-lumishine.com

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111

RRP FROM £19.95 0800 0854956

asphair.com

Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team

ALFAPARF Milano’s The Hair Supporters is a luxury therapy line containing biomimetic quaternized keratin that can be used during colour, bleach and straightening services for major results.

IN-SALON SERVICE +353 45 856490 alfaparfmilano.com

Pureology’s Hydrate line is a stone-cold classic, but some might find it a little heavy.

Fine-haired clients rejoice – there’s now Hydrate Sheer shampoo and conditioner!

Beauty sleep for hair, but in a bottle! New Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum from Kérastase is designed to be used just before bed, leaving a weightless finish that feels soft in the morning.

While your clients are snoozing, this busy bee’s nutrients get the chance to penetrate hair fully and replace the moisture stripped away during the day by styling and environmental nasties. Another brilliant example of inspiration from the world of skincare, this serum does all the hard work while clients catch their Zzzs – we think it will be just as hardworking for your retail sales!

pureology.com

L’Oréal Professionnel Serioxyl Denser Hair Treatment works to target hair thinning with hero ingredients such as Stemoxydine to help wake up dormant follicles.

RRP £35 0800 0304034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

RRP £36 0845 6000122 kerastase.co.uk

Perfect for colour-treated hair, the Tea Tree Special Color duo includes rooibos tea botanicals to help prevent fading.

This is genius – Paper Not Foil is made from ground-down industrial waste from the construction industry, recycled and turned into paper for colour services. Use it in the same way as any foil or meche product!

RRP FROM £6.50 0845 6590011

SALON PRICE FROM £36 01283 584812

salon-success.co.uk

papernotfoil.co.uk

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Goldwell’s Topchic and Colorance lines welcome new @ELUMENATED METALLIC shades! Additions include Cool Bronze, Cool Copper and Steel Violet – or make a statement with @Pure Pigments Cool Violet.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0330 1239530 goldwell.co.uk

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STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Ready to shake things up? Good, because ANTI has hit the UK. Encapsulating the zeitgeist of individuality, it’s all about empowering your clients to celebrate and perfect their unique identity. Forget labels and rules, forget ‘this should be used for these types and not those’, forget gender boundaries and boxes. The latest venture of hairdressing entrepreneur Francesco Ruggerino, and under the creative direction of session icon Nick Irwin, the sleek styling of the capsule collection is inspired by the edgy, streetwise vibe of New York City. The 10 products cover everything from shampoo to styling spray, and are power-packed with natural ingredients which replace the need for silicones.

RRP FROM £28

anticollective.com

One to watch...

ELECTRIC PROFESSIONAL Electric Professional might not be new, but it’s certainly one of the most innovative brands around. Each formula is handcrafted by founder Mark Woolley working with a cosmetic chemist, with each product taking at least 18 months to develop. All ingredients are sourced in the UK, which is one of the reasons he’s bought Falmer Court in East Sussex, where he’s building a lab and will be growing ingredients for his range.

Mark uses his Art Team, along with session hairdressers and platform artists globally in extensive testing stages, as well as his own Electric salon staff.

“I liken us to the 'craft brewer’ of the professional haircare market,” he explains, stressing that the Electric message is one of innovation and independence. “We offer the stylist the chance to be part of something, offering our education seminars and events, as well as having something that looks great in the salon, and has a real story.”

Right now, he’s building a strong community of hairdressers, recently supporting Johnnie Sapong at London Fashion Week Men’s, and has an eye on a bigger digital community of ‘Electric-endorsed Artists,’ where stylists can buy products at a special price to use on shoots or in the salon, giving them some margin to retail to their clients. This is with an eye on the increasing number of hairdressers now working as

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independents. Electric Professional is currently in about 60 UK salons, and close to 200 US salons. “We aim to keep the brand exclusive with hand-picked salons being invited,” explains Mark. He’s also committed to supporting salon owners, and keeps the brand away from discount websites and Amazon.

Its exclusive partnership with Feelunique means the site is contracted to sell the products only at full price.

Electric might be compact, but Mark is ambitious. New is the C1 English Rose Serum, and coming soon is the C6 Cloudburst evaporating mousse and the C8 Invisible Volume Chalk volume powder. And this summer will also see a collaboration with British artists on the launch of aluminium shampoo and conditioner bottles that clients can refill back at the salon.

ROSE SERUM RRP £17.50 01273 775397

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THE BIG IDEA

PULP RIOT

“RISK AVERSE” is not a term you would use to describe Alexis and David Thurston. In 2010 they decided to launch the Butterfly Loft salon in Los Angeles when they were just good friends, but it wasn’t long before they realised there was something more. A marriage in the salon was followed by a brainchild – a vivid hair colour range called Pulp Riot – that went from a dream to 6,000 US salons in just 13 months. And just under two years on from launch it was snapped up by L’Oréal – quite the roller coaster.

The couple has a preternatural understanding of the modern colourist and consumer, illustrated by the products they’ve developed and the way they’ve engaged their audience. Pulp Riot’s fun, illustrative packaging and line-up of vivid tones and metallicedged toners has absolutely captured the zeitgeist – especially as it’s also vegan, gluten- and cruelty-free. The fact that hairdressers have lovingly developed this range gives it a visible edge, as does the fact it’s conditioner-based and has a consistency that makes it a dream to work with. “For years hair colour has been uninspiring – seen as a technical product that’s supposed to be hidden away,” says David.

“We thought, let’s make a product line that makes stylists feel like artists, and a product that you can put out so people can see.”

But for fans of vivids, it’s the fade that has them all a-flutter.

“We’re one of the few product brands that routinely post pictures of faded hair,” says David proudly. “We set out to create a product that faded better, and we’ve been able to nail that.”

Like many modern, savvy brands, Pulp Riot has seen the importance of social media from the beginning, getting across that they’re powered by people using Pulp Riot as a ‘microphone’, sharing its social media space to platform artists and grow the community. “It’s zero degrees of separation between the people creating the product and the people using it,” explains Alexis. “It’s a level of authenticity and we’re very transparent with everything – no secrets, no hidden agenda. People like that.”

And now it’s landed in the UK, available from Salons Direct and Alan Howard. You can grab toners and semi-permanent colours now, while permanent colours will follow in the autumn, followed by aftercare next year. David and Alexis will be touring the UK with members of their Riot Squad this summer and the plan is to establish a UK Squad, too.

For anyone who’s worried the vivid colour trend is just a fad, Alexis has this to say: “It’s going to become more mainstream. You don’t see a lot of doctors or lawyers with creative colours, but just as we’ve seen with tattoos, it’s a cultural shift that will continue.”

Oh, and if you’re wondering about the name, it’s simple mathematics. In column one, David wrote variations of words pertaining to what was inside the tube. In column two, words that described the disruptive impact they wanted to make on the industry. The bottom of column one was ‘pulp’; ‘riot’ was at the top of column two. Bingo! We think it’s way better than Goo Havoc...

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WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME A HAIRDRESSER? I’m people person! I have a passion for art and I love being creative and pushing myself to do crazy things. Hairdressing is an amazing career with endless opportunities to grow. I have learnt a lot about hair, but also clients, colleagues and even myself! I love doing hair and from the day I started I’ve always tried to push myself to be the best I can be.

MITCHELL GOUGH AGE: 22 SALON: HENSMANS, NORTHAMPTON

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? Assisting in teams at top designers at London Fashion Week, which gave me a huge insight into the creative side of the industry.

Getting onto the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team was incredible and I really can’t wait to get stuck in!

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I would love to be working alongside top industry experts, pushing education in hairdressing and sharing knowledge. I’d also love to be involved with session work, on shoots and at Fashion Week! I love how diverse hairdressing is; the opportunities are endless.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? To work on global shoots, marketing campaigns or adverts for big brands, working alongside top hairdressers like Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison to create exciting new looks. I would love to be involved with the Essential Looks collection from Schwarzkopf Professional, and I dream of working with legends like Akin Konizi.

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#CHedit

Inside story GATSBY & MILLER AMERSHAM

It’s a daunting but thrilling feeling to be given an entirely blank canvas with which to devise a new salon – so Gatsby & Miller in Amersham worked with Reis Design to build a free-flowing environment where each area was delineated by colours, textures and the materials used. Identifying different parts of the salon as either ‘energy areas’ or ‘relaxation spaces’ helped, and from the moment clients walk into the salon there’s no physical barrier, with the reception desk deliberately set back. High ceilings and large glass windows create an easy vibe, which continues into the gender-neutral grooming zone. In the relaxation areas – which include the beauty treatment areas and the backwash – privacy is created with partial screening and a lowered ceiling, while low lighting adds to the sense to intimacy. This salon space retains an industrial feel that’s offset with muted colour tones and rose gold finishes. “The team love it and the feedback from clients has been fabulous,” beams salon manager Dawn Montgomery.

HOT BUYS HOLD ME

now open

The Green Hug styling chair from Maletti Giovannoni Design is an embrace of plump vinyl padding and varnished veneered plywood, creating a smart yet friendly seat that suits all salons. £695 (usually £1,090)

020 3207 2032 maletti.co.uk

THE COTERIE SALON, ST. AUSTELL

Cornwall has a new hair hub to enjoy, with a modern yet welcoming feel with plenty of light and beautiful finishing touches.

CREATIVE HEAD

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18/03/2019 11:54

THE BUSINESS EDIT

MICHAEL THOMPSON

ADVANCED PRO SALON WHAT MAKES ADVANCED PRO SALON COLOURCODE SO INNOVATIVE? ColourCode was born from a simple concept – creating products your hair would choose – and focusing on both stylist and client in equal measure. It offers professional permanent or demi-permanent dual colour performance across 117 shades with exceptional coverage, and every shade is infused and enriched with ProPlex technology, argan oil and vitamins B5, C and E.

WHY SHOULD SALONS LOOK AGAIN AT THEIR COLOUR? Producing a great range of shades is no longer enough; post-colour treatments merely paper over the cracks.

Advanced Pro Salon is firmly focused on minimising and eradicating the damage in the first place, which is underpinned by a full ProPlex and argan oil-infused professional pre-lightener range. Even our developers are enriched with argan oil!

WHAT PLANS DO YOU HAVE ON THE HORIZON? The ColourCode range is available now and we have new shades already in development to expand that range, including extreme colours. Advanced Pro Salon is supported by highly-experienced creative and technical teams with decades of high-level salon experience, who are on hand to expertly guide a salon.

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HAS FRANCHISING GOT A FRESH FUTURE? CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER ANDREW BARTON has recently revealed that following his new role as creative director at national salon chain Headmasters, he has become a franchisee, taking on the group’s Mayfair salon (see below). Having been both a key part of the Toni&Guy and Saks teams earlier in his career, Andrew also had his own brand salon before closing in 2015.

Such a big name committing to a franchise future has shone the spotlight again on what franchising can bring – both as a franchisee and as a salon brand that might want to go down that path. “You have an entire network dedicated to helping you and your business – accountancy, sales monitoring, wages, training, lease negotiations, advertising and PR is supported,” explains Darren Messias, joint managing director of KH Hair Group.

But, remember, this comes with a royalties cost and you’ll need to abide by the rules of the franchise company and adhere to its brand values. “Issues can arise when a franchisee doesn’t agree with one of these rules or values, so communication from the very beginning is a key factor,” he adds.

“To get the best out of owning a franchise you really have to embrace the brand,” says Barry Jarega, head of business development at Saks. “We have done extensive research and we know our target market, so it makes sense for new franchisees to take advantage

of the knowledge and resources available.”

HOB Salons has 25 salons, 10 of which are franchises launched by six different owners.

Director Clive Collins believes it’s vital for a new franchisee to keep track of every bit of money, a common pitfall. “They can spend too much on day-to-day expenses without realising the impact on their cashflow – all these minor expenditures build up,” he says.

“Suddenly they realise they can’t pay their wage or VAT bill and the business begins to spiral in a way that’s hard to rectify.”

How can this pitfall be avoided? Be obsessive! “Check your bank statements constantly and keep a running total on where every penny is being spent,” warns Clive.

“Ensure you can cover the essentials with a buffer to cover anything unexpected.”

And what if you’re a salon owner thinking about letting others have a slice of the action? The most difficult part is finding balance in relinquishing some control, while remaining true to what you’ve built. “Do you have the brand and infrastructure to support future franchisees and make sure they feel that they are getting value for the royalties they pay?” asks Darren. “When it’s your business, any decision you make is yours alone. However, when you have franchisees who may not agree with your views or decisions for the brand, you have to be prepared to listen and perhaps compromise.”

ANDREW BARTON

HEADMASTERS MAYFAIR Every business faces challenges, but working with a large group offers great expertise and a framework of business skills to address those challenges. At Headmasters we have a great brand name with a great reputation, as well as a network of support tools.

Any business comes with huge responsibility, especially the future of the team, their careers and their income. Attracting clients is a constant drive for a salon owner, providing staff with clients and effectively managing profit and loss. I speak to many independent salon owners who feel alone. They’re often one of the busiest stylists behind the chair, too, and can find it frustrating to find the time and expertise to manage.

Being a franchisee you get so much of this support. A good starting point is to list what the individual’s expectations are from the franchisor and see how the brand can deliver. I’ve learnt that this collective approach to building a business is a winning formula.

CREATIVE HEAD

21/03/2019 15:06

Don’t try to make it on your own …

WE’LL MAKE IT SO MUCH BETTER TOGETHER! JOIN US TODAY TO GET THESE FANTASTIC BENEFITS: Free everyday business and HR advice from our friendly membership team.

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Join now for less than 75p a day Join before 30 April and quote CHA25 to get £25 off your membership fee

Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info www.nhf.info/benefits

#BusinessEdit

KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION

What are the best strategies to protect your business when a senior member of staff opens a salon in direct competition with you?

ADAM GATES, GORGEOUS HAIRDRESSING, BERKHAMSTED

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS

This is a great question Adam, but one that will lead me to ask you some questions at the end.

First, you must remember that the clients that used to be served by this team member are actually clients of your salon and not the team member. At least that is how they should feel. Often salons forget the importance of building a whole team relationship with a client and leave the relationship building to a stylist.

It’s quite common that other team members fail to engage with or get to know all clients, too. If they did get to know them, then when a stylist left clients would feel comfortable transferring to another one within the salon environment that they know, love and feel comfortable in.

Now, that might sound like shutting the stable door after the ‘horse’ has bolted, but looking again at your salon culture might prevent you losing more ‘horses’ in the future.

Referring to my earlier point, the client belongs to your salon and in these days of GDPR this is a really important issue. If the team member has taken any contact information then this could be in breach of GDPR regulations and a letter from your solicitor needs to be sent to the stylist to that effect.

You are responsible for the security of client data and therefore your security could be questioned if they were to

contact your clients. Hopefully all of your team contracts include clauses regarding GDPR and all of your staff are aware of this.

Now, back to the clients that you’re concerned about losing. It’s important to note that they won’t all go – some will and they will be the ones that, sadly, you will focus on, because that hurts. The reality is that many won’t leave and you should love them for it. Reassure them that life will continue and that all of your team value them and will take care of them in the future.

As soon as anyone leaves, be proactive. Use every means possible to engage with the clients that you’re at risk of losing before they even consider going elsewhere – mail, email, Facebook, Twitter! Offer them added value or incentives to stay with you. I’m not a fan of discounts but I am, however, a big fan of added value.

Be creative, and think outside the box. Offer invitationonly events to meet your remaining team members while you share seasonal tips and advice or share fashion trends and ideas for the future. Excite and intrigue them.

Now the questions, Adam. Apart from relocation or a change in family circumstances, most people leave a job because they have been given an ‘opportunity’ elsewhere.

Opportunities come in many forms and could be a financial reward, promotion, education, extra responsibility or creative growth. These are all areas that are the responsibility of a forward-thinking salon owner.

At 3•6•5 we coach salons to find out what people want and help them to achieve it. Ask yourself these two questions whenever you lose a quality team member. What opportunity are they leaving for? Could you have created a similar opportunity and if not, why not? Food for thought…

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag 24

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CREATIVE HEAD

18/03/2019 11:58

3·6·5 Successful Business Coaching for Salons

Are you a

Salon Owner?

Finding it harder and harder to pull in new clients and recruit the right team?

In times of change it is important to plan ahead.

With many uncertainties facing the industry and economy in 2019, 3·6·5 can help to point you in the right direction.

3·6·5 can provide your salon with successful business coaching to help promote a long-term, sustainable future for your business.

Call us on: 0845 659 0015 www.365SalonEducation.com Find us: @365SalonEducation

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08/10/2018 16:54

#BusinessEdit

GET ALLERGY WEEK-READY “ALLERGY AWARENESS WEEK 2019 is fast approaching and we’re taking the opportunity to remind salon owners of the importance of allergy alert testing,” said NHF/NBF quality and standards director, Caroline Larissey. “It’s vital to check if your clients are allergic to hair colour or treatment products or have any skin sensitivities,” said Caroline. “You’ll want to keep your clients safe and also make sure your insurance will cover you should something go wrong.”

Hair salons can use the NHF/NBF toolkit for allergy alert testing for hair colour, available from nhf.info/shop. It’s free to Members with £10 P&P. The NHF/NBF has also developed a toolkit for allergy alert tests and skin sensitivity tests specifically for use in beauty salons which will be available shortly. Allergy Awareness Week 2019 will be held from 29 April to 3 May.

PAY SLIPS REMINDER

MAKE SURE YOUR payslips comply with a new law that will come into force on 6 April 2019, NHF/ NBF chief executive Hilary Hall has warned. She explained: “New rules mean all employees’ and workers’ payslips must now be itemised and include clear information including gross salary, deductions, and net pay. The total number of hours worked must also be included where the individual’s pay varies according to hours worked.”

Payslips must also clearly state more detailed information such as payment methods (for example, part-cash, part-BACS) or different amounts paid for certain types of work or hours.

Said Hilary: “The new-style payslips will make it easier to spot and prosecute businesses who pay below the National Minimum Wage, so it’s important for employers to get this right.”

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PENSION CONTRIBUTIONS SET TO RISE THIS MONTH THE MINIMUM CONTRIBUTIONS you and your staff must pay into your workplace pension scheme is set to increase from 6 April 2019.

“The new minimum amount required by law will go up from 5 per cent to 8 per cent,” explained NHF/NBF director, Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “The minimum amount the employer is required to contribute is 3 per cent, which makes the employee’s minimum contribution 5 per cent.”

However, employers can choose to pay more than the minimum contribution and reduce the amount their staff need to pay to make up the total to 8 per cent.

“You must automatically enrol certain employees in your workplace pension scheme,” added Tina. “Employees can opt out, but the law says you must re-enrol them every three years and tell The Pensions Regulator that you have done so.”

Find out more at nhf.info/workplacepensions

Costs for older apprentices to be cut by 50 per cent THE 10 PER CENT FEE that small businesses pay when they take on apprentices aged 19 or over will halve from 1 April 2019. The announcement by Chancellor of the Exchequer Philip Hammond, means that the cash contribution required from employers will fall to £350 for new starters from this month, having previously been reduced from £900 to £700 in January.

“We’re delighted that our campaign to reduce the cost of apprenticeships for small business employers has been successful,” said Hilary Hall, NHF and NBF chief executive.

“Although the reductions were announced in the Autumn Budget, no start date was given, leading some employers to delay apprenticeship starts. Many salons are put off from employing older apprentices, so this reduction is good news, but of course there are still the higher minimum wage costs to pay for anyone aged 19 or over once they have completed the first year of their apprenticeship.”

CREATIVE HEAD

21/03/2019 15:07

#BusinessEdit

BUSINESS BUILDER

All prices listed are exclusive of VAT

With occasions season just around the corner, there’s no better time to stock up on your Paul Mitchell care and styling ranges. When purchasing online, customers can take advantage of our 3 for 2 offer and also receive a free 75ml Tea Tree shampoo!

Terms and conditions apply, contact Salon Services for more information.

H TEAC ME! Help your clients get those yearned-for long locks in time for summer with the Sally Micro-Loop & Micro-Ring Hair Extensions course (£120 exc.

VAT). Great for expanding your skillset, this in-depth course will teach you all about the art of extensions – a booming business.

THE SERVICE STATION In association with

ASK ME ANYTHING THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE EVERY BRANCH OF SALON SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!

Simone Channe

Store manager at Sally Salon Services Wembley Q: With wedding season around the corner, what can I do to make sure it’s a lucrative time for my business?

A: “First, prioritise

Innovative launches, expert advice and business boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!

ON RIGHT NOW

Now is the perfect time to nurture your natural beauty with this season’s must-haves.

Throughout April both retail and trade customers at Salon Services will receive a free Beauty Bag full of the latest goodies when spending £50 or more on beauty products, both online and in-store.

WELL-GROOMED BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT

The Andis and Mike Taylor Salon Services Fade & Blades course (£150 exc. VAT) is ideal for those who want to take their barbering skills to the next level. It teaches students how to create some of the most sought-after hair and beard styles.

training. From courses such as Training Solutions’ Wedding Hair Bliss Bridal & Occasion course (£95 exc. VAT), to Salon System’s Marvelash Eyelash Extension course (£160 exc. VAT), there are countless options when it comes to staying on top of the latest trends and techniques. Also, remember that as well as educating yourself and your staff, you should educate your customers, too. This can be easily done when they’re in your chair. And don’t forget to share specific product recommendations!

I particularly love the Olaplex products to maintain hair bonds, and Moroccanoil products for keeping hair moisturised and shimmery during the hot summer months.”

FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM CREATIVE HEAD

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21/03/2019 10:28

GLOW GETTER

TAKE NATURAL HAIR UP A NOTCH WITH JOICO’S NEW LUMISHINE NATURAL WARM NUDE GLOW SHADES NATURAL AND NEUTRAL COLOUR palettes are by no means boring – one look at the soaring popularity of natural and ‘nomake-up make-up’ on social media can prove that. According to Influenster, in the past 12 months tinted moisturiser reviews increased by a whopping 408 per cent. It’s all about that effortlessly glamorous look – minimum effort for maximum impact.

So, while Instagram might continue to buzz about pretty pastels and unicorn-bright hair colours, the majority of your clients are looking for next-level natural luxe looks. They trust you to deliver that radiant, holiday glow that enhances their natural beauty.

With a palette of shades that takes natural to new heights, the LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow shades from JOICO blend warmth and luminous nude tones. From sandy sable to beachy bronze, these universally flattering shades are available in permanent crème, demi-permanent crème and demi-permanent liquid formats for glowing, gorgeous hair.

I love the new JOICO LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow shades because they are the perfect blend of neutral and golden shades to enhance any skin tone and bring out natural luminosity!

LARISA LOVE, JOICO BRAND AMBASSADOR

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LIT FROM WITHIN

With JOICO’s unique bond-building ArgiPlex technology, you can deliver gorgeously shiny colour without sacrificing healthy hair. Using a blend of arginine – a naturally occurring amino acid crucial to hair strength – and JOICO’s patented conditioning complex, the hair shaft is surrounded and protected, locking in moisture and shine. Sealing the deal is the Quadramine Complex, JOICO’s exclusive blend of low-molecular proteins that help to maximise reconstruction from cuticle to cortex.

SPOILT FOR CHOICE

Choose from 13 glow-giving shades across three formulations to enhance and lift your clients’ hair – and mood. From golden, sandy shades to rich brunettes and barely-there bronze, there’s something to tempt even the most change-averse client.

DELIVERS UP TO 2X SHINE*

NOURISHING PROTECTION THAT SEALS IN MOISTURE, SOFTNESS AND SHINE FOR UP TO 30 SHAMPOOS**

100% D REPLENISHE AND ED STRENGTHEN HAIR***

OFFERS 100% GREY ITH COVERAGE W ÈME R C PERMANENT MAL TI P O COLOUR, AND BOWL R FO VISCOSITY OR BOTTLE AND BRUSH – YOU APPLICATION DECIDE!

18/03/2019 12:32

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

DEMI-PERMANENT LIQUID refresh, gloss and tone in a flash while blending away greys

PERMANENT CRÈME perfect for 100 per cent grey coverage, reduced breakage and up to twice the shine

TOP TIP!

Pair your LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow shades with JOICO’s game-changing Defy Damage Pro Series for next-level colour saturation. Prep hair with Pro Series 1, a bond-protecting colour optimising spray which shields hair from damage while improving colour deposit and lift. Apply your formula of choice, shampoo out and then lock in that incredible shine with Pro Series 2 at the backwash. The result? Guaranteed healthier-looking hair after each LumiShine colour service. Now, go get that glow!

*Versus untreated damaged hair **When followed with JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner ***Versus hair color without AriPlex

DEMI-PERMANENT CRÈME cover and blend greys or create depth and dimension with lowlighting and shadow-root

SHOW YOUR CLIENT’S GLOW WITH JOICO LUMISHINE NATURAL WARM NUDE GLOW SERIES – FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 0845 071 2326 OR VISIT JOICO-LUMISHINE.COM CREATIVE HEAD

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@joicoeurope #hairfeels

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21/03/2019 10:30

2019

SALON SESSION STARS

AWARDS CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED D EXCELLENCE CELEBRATE AWESOME TALENT AN. THE 2019 IN ALL AREAS OF HAIRDRESSING ULD THE STARS COMPETITION IS NOW OPEN – WO STAND UP? OF SALON AND SESSION PLEASE

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19/03/2019 15:54

NEW! ALL CATEGORIES NOW OPEN TO THE UK AND IRELAND CATEGORY SPONSOR

INDIVIDUAL AWARDS NEW!

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

For a stylist looking after clients at a salon while busy building ‘Brand Me’

MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST

For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating standout work in men’s hair

CREATIVE TALENT

For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise

BUSINESS THINKER

For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business

COLOUR EXPERT

For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise

HAIR TREND

For the best on-trend image of the year

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved a success for the salon business or the industry at large

SESSION STYLIST

For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion (by nomination only)

HAIR ICON

For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2019 (by nomination only)

CATEGORY SPONSOR

TEAM AWARDS NEW!

BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON

For a new small salon with a unique sense of style

BEST SALON TEAM For salon teamwork at its best

BEST LOCAL SALON

For a salon that best serves its local community

BEST NEW SALON

For a new or revamped salon that turns heads

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE For a salon that delivers top customer service

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COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 13 MAY ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19 QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK

19/03/2019 15:54

EW UK N G IN IT C X E T S O M E H T H FOR CREATIVE HEAD’S SEASRSCING STARS IS ON. DO YOU HAVE IT? AND IRISH HAIRDRE

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19/03/2019 15:54

WORK HARD. DREAM BIG. GET NOTICED!

R UNDER O 0 3 D E G A S R E S S E R D IR FOR HA ND! A L E IR D N A K U E H T O T N PE ALL CATEGORIES NOW O THE RISING STAR

For a young salon assistant who’s enthusiastic, hardworking and fast improving – a new team star!

TO BE NOMINATED BY THE SALON OWNER OR MANAGER

THE FASHIONISTA

For a young stylist making a mark in session circles

THE ENTREPRENEUR

For a young salon owner who has created an exciting and successful business

THE VISIONARY

For a young stylist or technician who is pushing creative boundaries

THE IT GUY/GIRL

Two trophies – one for a guy, one for a girl – awarded to a young hairdressing professional excelling in multiple areas of their work and destined for greatness

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COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 20 MAY ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19 QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK

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19/03/2019 15:55

IN SESSION

MEN

MONDAY 20 MAY 2019 7PM UNTIL 10PM, LONDON WORKING LIVE ON SET AND IN CONVERSATION WITH LEE KYNASTON, STYLE & GROOMING JOURNALIST FOR THE TELEGRAPH & MR PORTER

JODY TAYLOR

DYNAMIC. TECHNICAL. FORWARD�THINKING. MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST. 034-035_Coterie.indd 1

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LIAM CAMPBELL

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21/03/2019 12:59

ANTI ordinary

SO MANY BRANDS TREAD THE SAME PATH, BUT ANTI IS BREAKING NEW GROUND 36

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CREATIVE HEAD

21/03/2019 15:08

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ANTI ordinary.

ANTI judgement.

ANTI limitation.

BORN FROM THE NEED for profound change in our industry, ANTI is a new haircare range with a radical vision. It’s a brand that does not label or dictate but revels in individuality while bringing people together in consciousness.

Its bold capsule collection was created to support salon owners, celebrate hairdressers and empower consumers to champion their unique identity, that they are anything but ordinary.

Founded by hairdressing entrepreneur Francesco Ruggerino, the ANTI collective is inspired by the street culture and progressive attitude of New York City. “ANTI is a brand that brings people together, stands strong with a moral compass and initiates positive change in the industry and the world,” he says.

For such a boundary-pushing brand, collaborating with equally creative artists is paramount. The brand’s global creative director, Nick Irwin, is marrying his extensive salon and session experience with the brand’s enthusiasm for change and cult-cool aesthetic. “I’ve known Nick for a long time and we share the same values and passion for our industry – ANTI presented the perfect opportunity,” Francesco explains. “Nick is ANTI to his core and I know he, like many others, wants to see a new age in hairdressing.”

“It’s time for change in the industry and in the world.

ANTI is at the heart of that” NICK IRWIN

The ANTI Heroes

A collection of 10 gender-neutral products, the ANTI portfolio is high performance and no-nonsense with its bold packaging, to keep the focus on the sophisticated finish. These are our ANTI hero product picks…

EVERYTHING SPRAY

FINISHING CREAM

TEXTURE SPRAY

STYLING SPRAY

SHINE SPRAY

A leave-in conditioning spray to add moisture, detangle and soften.

A lightweight, multipurpose cream that adds moisture, control and shine.

A salt spray that creates effortless matte texture without weighing hair down.

A workable styling spray that provides volume, control and heat protection.

An aerosol-free finishing mist for intense shine and a smooth finish.

Explore the possibilities – contact connectuk@anticollective.com or visit anticollective.com @anti.collective CREATIVE HEAD

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18/03/2019 12:28

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It’s all about… Performance Redken

“CLIENTS HAVE TO think hard about going blonde – and staying fresh-outof-the-chair blonde – it’s very high maintenance,” says Bruno Marc Giamattei, JOICO ambassador for Europe, the UK and Ireland, and director of Marc Antoni salons. So the challenge is to be able to create the best blondes, which means you need the best tools at your fingertips. Luckily, there have never been betterperforming products than are available today.

Preparation is key, so it’s important to remove old colour in way that doesn’t compromise hair quality, giving you a blank canvas to work from. “Colour removal and lightening within the salon can be a difficult process, with some client requests seeming impossible without causing a lot of damage to the hair,” explains Sam Brunton, business development manager at Hair Tools, which offers the Zalon Pro London Colour Remover – a quick, easy and healthy way of removing artificial colour. “Zalon targets only the artificial molecules within the cortex of the hair, shrinks them down and allows them to escape through the cuticle and be rinsed away. The argan oil also adds condition and shine.”

The Affinage Salon Infiniti High Lift Series formula ensures even results every time you use it and has added anti-fade technology for longer-lasting blondes. Available in four shades, this clever lightener contains 90 per cent naturally-derived ingredients including shea butter and argan oil, so it’s great for health and environmentally-conscious clients who still want outstanding results.

The ColourCode Special Blondes range from Advanced Pro Salon features three pre-lighteners, so you can choose the specific look you’re trying to achieve. “Powerful anti-oxidants are also infused into each tube with the addition of vitamins C and E, which reduce the damage and colour interference caused by free radicals,” explains Jordan Lee-White, Advance Pro Salon ColourCode creative director. “Pro-vitamin B5 adds essential moisture, too, to help prevent damage and reduce brittleness.”

54 40

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CREATIVE HEAD

19/03/2019 15:38

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It’s all about… Technique

ONCE YOU’VE CONSIDERED performance, it’s time to take a look at your method. Gone are the days of a simple half-head of highlights – now there are countless ways to bring your clients to the lighter side.

The team at Live True in London has developed a balayage technique called Princess Hair that achieves the oft-requested look. Instead of backcombing, the stylist applies colour with a special freehand technique and then uses a hairdryer to apply heat, creating a stronger colour lift. The result is a beautifully blended, iridescent colour that still looks very natural. Because it’s so easy to blend, it’s also easy to wear. “With its almost too good to be true finish – it’s akin to the glorious hair that Disney princesses have,” says Valerie Maine, director at Live True.

James Taylor of Moose House of Hair in Market Harborough agrees that placement is key. “We don’t need to do full heads, it’s more about face framing.

Make sure you apply foils in the places that are easy to forget: if the client wears their hair in a ponytail or tucks their hair behind their ear, make sure there are foils at the nape of the neck and behind the ear – otherwise they’ll feel this looks really dark and won’t be happy.”

Meanwhile, Christel Lundqvist, founder of Stil salon in London and winner of Most Wanted Best Salon Experience, has developed the Prism Lights technique,

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to maximise shine for blondes. “Prism Lights are freehandpainted in fine strands of lighter colour through the roots to the mid-lengths,” she explains. “Then the end of the hair is freehand-painted with a layering effect using two subtle, lighter shades. It allows light to open up and stream through the hair, creating a halo around the face.”

At Trevor Sorbie, international technical director Nathan Walker has created the Express Brightening service. “Simple and quick, Express Brightening is an ideal introduction to professional colour,” he explains. “The trend for lower maintenance hair looks set to stay, so I created these techniques to give a personal and tailored colour experience in the shortest amount of time.”

And no matter what technique you decide on, Paper Not Foil offers the perfect way to process your work of art. Launched in New Zealand by hairdresser Amanda Buckingham, it’s both effective and environmentallyfriendly. “Foil can’t be recycled unless it is completely clean, and the overwhelming majority of it isn’t,” she explains. “I wanted to create something that would be as efficient as foil, if not better, than it, but that was also completely sustainable.”

This game-changing product is super-speedy and can be re-used. “Everyone wants to make a difference to their waste, and this is a way that salons and clients can do so,” adds Amanda.

CREATIVE HEAD

21/03/2019 15:09

GOODBYE TO ALUMINIUM FOIL

Neville Hair and Beauty Chocolate Blonde

ALFAPARF Milano

#Blondes

Allilon Hair Education

It’s all about… Results

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THE TRUE BEAUTY of blonde is that there are so many different tones available. From sumptuous caramels to ashy whites, there’s a finish for every client. Rich, warm shades are popular for their low maintenance, and can be a delicious way to add some interest for the new season. As can be seen across Instagram, one thing has become clear – it’s all about tone, which presents a brilliant opportunity for salons.

Neville Hair & Beauty in London has added Chocolate Blonde and Butter Blonde to its menu of services, with the former achieved by combining subtle hair painting with colourintensifying foils. The result is soft, lived-in hair that stands out due its versatility. “It works on all hair types and base colours, and Redken’s Shade EQ helps achieve an uncontrived effect,” says Elena Lavagni, co-owner of Neville Hair & Beauty.

Madeline Murphy, colour director at Allilon Hair Education and Ena salon, stresses that you must always understand your canvas. She says: “It’s so important to think about bleaches and toners in particular and really educate yourself about underlying pigments in the hair, what tone will be present in the hair when lifting, as well as the counteracting tones.”

And toners can also create a very specific shade – so if your client prefers a warm or cool tone you can bring their dreams to life. ALFAPARF Milano Pigments come in colours such as ash gold and rose copper and can be used in high or low concentration. Simply add them to colour formulas, smoothing treatments or selected ALFAPARF Milano styling products for a boost or to refresh tired-looking hair between colour services.

Suzanne Alphonse, commercial technical education manager at Wella Professionals, cites the brand’s Glossing Service for blondes as a stable way of infusing colour. “It’s like putting on a top coat on over a nail or lip colour,” she explains.

CREATIVE HEAD

19/03/2019 15:39

ALLILON UK: COLOUR COURSES 2019 Primary Colour Techniques 13th – 16th May Advanced Colour & Foil Work 22nd – 25th July Mention Creative HEAD when booking to receive a gift from us on the first day of the course.

Did you know, here at Allilon we offer a complete range of four day cut and colour courses in our London academy to suit all needs.

To learn more SEARCH: ALLILON

#Blondes

It’s all about…

Hair health

OF COURSE, blonde hair only remains beautiful as long as it’s healthy. Ensure you’re entirely honest about what is and isn’t possible before you begin any process. “To always get the best result you need to meet or manage your client’s expectations,” explains James Taylor at Moose House of Hair.

“To go from dark to white blonde won’t happen how they think it will! If you can educate them on the science behind why it won’t work or why it will take time, then it helps them understand, rather than them thinking that you can’t be a very good hairdresser if you can’t do it!”

Luckily, bonding additives mean that hair can be kept healthier than ever before even during the blonding process – think of them as preventative measures rather than damage control. The original bonding additive, Olaplex, changed hair colour forever. “Olaplex will help to repair the most damaged hair, protect it during colour services and help to optimise results, therefore increasing client satisfaction,” explains Vanessa Boland, Olaplex educator. “Clients are more aware of the damage colouring can cause to their hair and healthy hair is an important factor for many clients.”

Now savvy-salons are aware of the multiple benefits of

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including additives in technical services. “We use L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond – it makes blondes lighter with clean results and leaves hair in great condition,” says Andria Kaisharis, colour director at Fowler35.

The new Defy Damage in-salon treatment from JOICO can be used with any colour and lightening brand and helps to strengthen and protect bonds while improving results and saving time. The first step, Pro Series 1, is a simple spray that makes lightening processes more effective, while the second, Pro Series 2, strengthens and hydrates.

So, how can you ensure that your clients opt for an additive? “Present your client with a visual,” suggests Vanessa. “Bleach two wefts – one with Olaplex, and one without, and do this a few times to mimic a second and third session of lightening. Present them to clients and let them feel the difference for themselves.”

CREATIVE HEAD

21/03/2019 10:31

Redken

@isamayaffrench, colour by @am yfishcolour

#Blondes

It’s all about… Aftercare THE LONGER YOUR clients’ hair looks great, the happier they’ll be with your service. That means you need to ensure they leave the salon with everything they need to keep their newly-blonde hair shining bright.

“Aftercare is super-important for all colour clients, but for blondes it is essential,” explains Amy Fish, colour queen at Larry King in London. “When clients go blonde they invest so much time and money on it, so you want them to continue that at home and keep their hair colour looking the best it can.”

The key to this, says Amy, is communication. “Everyone sees colour differently so it’s you need to understand what shade your client loves.

Educating them about the right aftercare is important so that the client will respect and understand the maintenance of their blonde.”

And it’s essential that the plan you come up with fits your client’s lifestyle. “Having an in-depth consultation with our clients allows us to create a tailored aftercare plan,” says Johanna Herald, senior master stylist at Charles Worthington Percy Street in London. “We can discuss and agree on the upkeep routine that suits them.”

When it comes to minimising brassiness, Amy

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recommends Redken Blondage. “It smells gorgeous and is high in pigment, which is great for colourists. Blondage has an equal mix of moisturising and strengthening factors, which is perfect for blondes who like their hair ‘ashier’ as it will remove any yellow tones in the hair – but it also works for brunettes whose hair fades to red.”

Adam Reed, editorial ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel and co-founder of Percy & Reed salons, believes that the most common concerns for blonde hair are breakage, damage and lack of shine. He adds: “It’s important to manage colour with at-home haircare such as L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Blondifier, which can help brighten blonde in-between colour appointments.”

Innoluxe’s platinum range contains a shampoo, conditioner and masque to help maintain blonde hair by deleting yellow tones and adding moisture. New Olaplex No. 4 shampoo and No. 5 conditioner mean clients maintain their hair health after they’ve left the salon. “They contain the active ingredient in Olaplex so you’re repairing the bonds in your hair while you cleanse! They also address moisture concerns and leave hair silky-smooth,” adds Vanessa Boland. “They can offer a way for salons to boost retail sales because they are an extension to the salon service.”

CREATIVE HEAD

19/03/2019 15:40

Chloe NØrgaard for Redken 5th Avenue

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A E 2019 /JUN AY /M IL PR

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THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS

Mr. Q

Q – we’re all about getting No April fools in this issue of Mr to tackle what the future e your barbering business in shap our tips on page 6. We out ck has to challenge you with! Che formerly Huntsman n, reig caught up with Kyle Ross of Sove own from lowd the got barber shop in Aberdeen, and ’s show, styled Men k Wee Charles Jeffrey’s London Fashion there’s some and Oh, . onal

by John Vial for Revlon Professi n Stone, too.

Alla and n esig Har artistic work to enjoy by Tony

GET SMART

1.

2.

3.

WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER See… Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist Jody Taylor and Liam Campbell styling up a storm at The Coterie: In Session’s first men’s event, hosted by grooming guru Lee Kynaston. creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie Enter… the Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist Award, sponsored by American Crew.

The deadline is 13 May. Download your form at creativeheadmag.com/ mostwanted Follow… all the action from the Men’s Image Award at this year’s L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final at Battersea Evolution.

Follow @creativeheadmag on Instagram on 3 June for all the updates as they happen

YO TO U NE ME ED ET…

welcomes you…

CONNOR EVANS Men’s Grooming Company

Describe yourself in five words Creative, ambitious, adaptable, motivated, persistent.

What’s exciting you about British barbering right now?

I’m love the fact that I’m being inspired by barbers young and old, pushing the boundaries in British barbering and male grooming to a whole new level. It’s such an exciting time for our industry, fusing traditional barbering with modern techniques and styles.

If I could change one thing…

I would stop the opening of any more barber shops until the industry is regulated and accountable for the services provided by cheap unqualified barbers. Until this is done these types of barber shops will undermine the professional skills of real barbers and shops trying to give good reliable services for their clients.

The barbers that most inspired me are…

Sid Sottung is one of the most amazing barbers I have ever had the pleasure to work with, he taught me everything I know. He is an amazing teacher and he still inspires me to this day. Dan Davies and Tom Chapman’s on-going support has been brilliant, too.

Who else should we get to know? @Staceyayles is an incredibly talented barber, a fellow ambassador for the Lions Barbers Collective and there’s no one else I would rather have working alongside me. My younger brother @ciaranevans94 is an incredible barber who inspires me every day in the shop, I’m so proud of him.

Say hello to me at Instagram: @connorevanshair; Facebook: @Men’sGroomingCompany

ON THE COVER Hair by Adee Phelan for SKNHEAD

02 Mister Quarterly

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21/03/2019 10:14 Barbicide_

Gemma Willock-Smith

NEW LIONS BARBERS REVEALED ALL STAR CHALLENGE

GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH from Frequency Barber in Glasgow scooped first place at this year’s American Crew All Star Challenge UK final. Along with Irish winner Chris O’Riordan from ST4Men, they’ll go into the next round to determine who makes the global final in New York on 19 May, where American Crew celebrates its 25th anniversary.

Kieran Evans from Jacks of London (UK) and Signature Hair’s Barry Kieran (Ireland) were runners-up.

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The Lions Barber Collective has revealed its 2019 ambassadors. The charity, which raises awareness of men’s mental health and was founded by barber Tom Chapman, the ambassadors will help with awareness and support with fundraising. They are Sam Wall (Newcastle), Stacey Ayles (Weymouth), Connor Evans (Coventry), Dan Davies (London), Lesley MacBain (Liverpool), Darren Birch (Warwick and Leicester), Tommie McGuckin (Scotland), Ken Hermes (London), Mark Loftin (Exmouth) and Jac Ludlow (Wales and Norway).

NEW GROOM ROOM

The Barber Shop at Gina Conway

Master barber Andrea D’Anna has been working behind the scenes for months to help build The Barber Shop at Gina Conway.

A dedicated area in the Notting Hill salon, it provides a variety of men’s services from a quick cut to a customised grooming experience with classic haircuts, nail services, hot towel shaves, and facial experiences.

The new service menu uses traditional men’s grooming techniques alongside the Aveda Men skincare and hair care, and will offer value-add Aveda Rituals to clients, too.

21/03/2019 05/03/201910:15 11:33

Photography courtesy of Revlon Professional

#TRENDING

CHARLES JEFFREY A/W19

John Vial for Revlon Professional The Charles Jeffrey A/W19 show was a vivid re-imagining of the ’20s and its androgynous Bright Young Things, with inspiration drawn from a 1923 edition of Peter Pan. Hair lead John Vial, global influencer for Revlon Professional, channelled Charles’s love affair with the decade, using origami hair with folds and tucks to emanate the structures of cloche hats worn in the era.

Also added into the mix were references to the wild youth of Lord of the Flies and the Eton Crop, first made famous by Josephine Baker, with slicked-back, shining hair finished with a few curls.

Models with longer hair saw John get a little playful. He prepped with Revlon Professional Style Masters Modular Hairspray then placed a ruler halfway down the hair to use as a base for folding the ends up to create the line. The folded ends were then resprayed before drying to set in place. Once the shape was complete, Revlon Professional Style Masters Glamourama was spritzed all over to create a glass-like shine.

04 Mister Quarterly

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ON THE SHELF

BOYS’ TOYS

THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP Infused with cedarwood and rosemary, Jason Shankey’s Beard Oil helps condition and nourish.

£4.99 (exc. VAT)

salon-services.com

The Dark Stag DS+ Offset Barber Scissor is ideal for precise, perfect hair cutting, available in 6" and 7".

Keep it clean with the Barbicide surface spray, ideal for disinfecting your station in a flash.

£6.70+VAT

hairproducts.co.uk

From £100+VAT darkstag.com

The A.K.A hair tools Skin Fade Comb’s scalene triangular teeth allow hair to be cut from a number 1, 1.5 to a 2 grade in one cutting motion.

Fiber Grooming Foam from Game American Crew is buildable to Changer deliver manageable volume from Adee and lived in-texture on Phelan’s longer hair.

SKNHEAD is a skin moisturiser that also £12.90 helps control and style americancrew. hair. Genius. com

£18.50

£18

sknhead.com

La Biosthétique’s new men’s range, Homme, is divided into Team Skin and Team Hair. We love the Powder Wax.

From £14

labiosthetique. co.uk

madebyaka.com

Salon Ambience’s shampoo unit Compact lives up to its name – just 111cm long, it’s great for making the most of your shop’s space.

Get more bang for your buck with super-sized, limited edition 500ml Reuzel Tonics.

£15.39 each reuzel.co.uk

£699 until end of April (usually £879)

salonambience. com

Mister Quarterly 05

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18/03/2019 11:17

BARBER SHOPS SAW THE GREATEST NUMBER OF OPENINGS IN 2017, DRIVEN BY INDEPENDENT BUSINESSES. WITH INCREASED COMPETITION FOR STAFF AND CUSTOMERS, HOW CAN YOU FUTUREPROOF YOUR BUSINESS AND ENSURE IT GOES THE DISTANCE? 08 Mister Quarterly

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The Bluebeards Revenge

Noticed a new barber shop opening near you? You won’t be the only one. According to the Local Data Company’s Retail and Leisure Trends Report for 2017/2018, barber shops enjoyed the highest number of openings in 2017.

With so much choice on offer, attracting loyal customers and talented staff is becoming harder than ever. The pressure is on – here’s a little help…

BUILD THE RIGHT TEAM… AND GET THEM THE RIGHT SKILLS

Want to ensure the success of your barber shop in a competitive world? Ruffians’ co-founder Andrew Cannon is adamant that it’s all about building the right team. “You can have a fancy fit-out, the best product on the market and an advertising budget to rival Coca-Cola – but if your team is not happy and motivated then it is all for nothing,” he says. “The clients will see through it and will not want to return to your shop. Build a happy team and the clients will feed off that energy and keep coming back.”

But how do you do this? Listen to them. “It is so important that staff feel valued and have a voice within the team, whether they

are a trainee or a store manager,” Andrew adds. “Each of them plays a key role in the team, each will be a different character with different ideas, concerns, emotions and so on. It’s key to listen to them all.”

So you have your team in place – what now? “Staying educated is the key to staying competitive,” believes Jo Martin, marketing director at Sally Europe. “When a client walks through your door asking for a specific look, they expect you to know your stuff.”

Male grooming is now so much more than just a short back and sides and it’s tough to track change, but looking both within and beyond your own barber shop will help to reveal shifting trends. The Bluebeards Revenge team recommends keeping an eye on A-list celebrities and current streetwear brands that have a recognised influence. Does your team know about Paul Pogba’s most recent hair update? How has Supreme styled its latest lookbook?

After surveying more than 2,000 people, The Bluebeards Revenge discovered that male clients’ hair is set to get longer, and beards more groomed in 2019. Two-thirds of the men that answered yes to changing their haircut in the year ahead suggested that their new look would be of medium to mediumlong length, while 33 per cent are planning to embrace more rugged designer stubble or fully-fledged beards.

“The 21st century man doesn’t want to go into a barber shop for a quick haircut anymore,” explains Jim Shaw, owner of essensuals Men Toni&Guy in Billericay. “It’s so important to be able to offer many different services so that clients leave your salon looking and feeling the best version of themselves.” Whether that’s offering traditional hot towel shaves or eyebrow waxing, facials or scalp massages, spend the time so clients spend the money.

Even time-pressed clients can be catered for if you’re able to open up early or cater for before and after normal work hours.

Offer speedy, effective solutions to requests; for example Redken Brews’ Camo Color and Goldwell’s Men Reshade options give subtle grey coverage in the blink of an eye and can be applied at the backwash. Quick and uncomplicated, these are no-brainer services which will make a big difference to your sales.

Providing opportunities for your staff to push themselves and grow can see their confidence boosted and skills soaring. Baldy, owner of Baldy’s Barbers in Aylesbury, says: “Competitions such as the American Crew All Star Challenge give barbers and men’s stylists a global showcase for their work. It’s also judged completely blind by independent judges which is really amazing.”

FIND YOUR PERFECT MATCH… AND GET PRESCRIBING!

The right product brand to partner with can bring a huge boost, both in resources, education and name recognition, and there are a number of great brands to choose from. When iconic hairdresser Adee Phelan created SKNHEAD, he did so following years of brand affiliations – figuring out what did and didn’t work. Sticking with one brand without shopping around, or only considering a small pool of options, can blind you to potentially perfect partnerships, he said.

“Barber shops should be looking for a brand that continues to bring out modern products and has a vision of the future. It’s important that the brand trusts the salon or barber shop as more than just somewhere to house its products,” Adee explains.

Retail is so much more than just an additional revenue stream. It’s worthwhile spending the time on your staff’s product Mister Quarterly 09

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knowledge, so that they know each one inside-out. Confident stylists will see the sales follow naturally. “Let’s say you went to the doctor and had a check-up, you’d expect that the doctor would give you the right prescription,” Adee reasons. “Barbers and hairdressers should be doing the same thing.”

According to Sue Whitehead, managing director of Jacks of London, it’s worth salon owners and managers relinquishing some control so that barbers feel empowered to take on responsibility for success. Her suggestion? Using business software to show proof of how changes to how they work can have an impact on the bottom line. “A reluctance to promote add-on services might seem like obstinacy to you, but it may just be a fundamental lack of understanding from them,” she explains.

“They simply ‘might not know what they don’t know’, and merely telling them is not enough. If you can show them what you mean, and your data allows you to do that, then you can break through and set them on the path to lasting success.”

ENSURE YOUR SHOP LOOKS THE PART… AND DELIVERS ON SERVICE

ENGAGE WITH YOUR AUDIENCE… AND WATCH THE FOOTFALL RISE

At Jacks of London, the team works hard on creating a ‘frictionless experience’. “We’ve embraced technology, meeting our target audience not just via our channels but also on other platforms they love, such as our recent collaborations with The Idle Man and other influencers. We are constantly developing fresh marketing campaigns,” Sue explains.

At Barber + Blow the brand has a very clean, clear approach and customer appeal, which translates into its curated feed on social media. Barber and owner Benjamin May explains: “We don’t over-post and don’t flood our followers with similar images in a repeated sequence. It’s always fun to create great imagery.”

Riding the tide of trends isn’t enough to guarantee success, but taking these steps to future-proof your business from whatever challenges are heading your way will see customers coming through your doors long after the beard buzz dies down.

Benjamin May, Barber + Blow

SKNHEAD

the kind of experience you want your client to enjoy and ensure your service is second-to-none,” advises Kate Wrighton, territory sales manager for Takara Belmont. “Space planning is vital to a first-class client experience, but it also enables you to plan your service menu for new revenue streams.”

“You need to really invest in your chairs, choosing a brand that is well known for its quality,” Terry Bunn, Maletti’s salon designer, suggests. “When it comes to stations you need to ensure you are working with materials that are resistant to water damage. If possible, choose materials that age well with time: solid wood doors, granite tops and ceramic sinks.”

Trend-chasing can compromise both quality and experience; the details matter. “Barber shops mean more than just haircuts.

You need to combine both trend and expertise, design and functionality, style and professionalism,” explains Sarah Dade, UK manager for Salon Ambience.

Finally, it’s important not to neglect the first impression of your shop from an outsider’s perspective – sometimes literally.

“The shop window is important and has to be integrated into the design, as it’s one of your best forms of advertising,” Terry adds.

Placing the customer experience at the centre of what you do means you need to consider how your shop looks and the physical flow of your client’s journey through the space, alongside what’s on your service menu.

“Build your equipment around 10 Mister Quarterly

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FOLLOW US @AMERICANCREWUK

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28/02/2019 14:19

KEEP IT SLICK STRIKING IN ITS SIMPLICITY, SLICKERS IS A COLLABORATIVE COLLECTION BY TONY HARESIGN AND ALLAN STONE, A MONOCHROMATIC STUDY OF THE ‘CITY BOY’ LOOK PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIE HARKNESS 12 Mister Quarterly

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Mister Quarterly 13

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Hair: Tony Haresign (@hairbytonyharesign) and Allan Stone (@allanbarberstone).

Make-up: Ellie Gibson (@elliegibsonx). Photography: Marie Harkness (@harknessphotography)

SHOP TALK

POLE POSITION SOVEREIGN

Kyle Ross

KYLE ROSS HAS BIG DREAMS ABOUT REIGNING SUPREME WITH HIS BRAND OF VINTAGE-INSPIRED MODERN BARBER SHOPS Kyle Ross is ready to take the barbering crown. His Aberdeen-based barber shop Sovereign, formerly Huntsman, is built around three core pillars – cutting, care and education – and it is this approach which has seen him win multiple awards and be shortlisted for GQ’s Barber of the Year 2019.

“We execute the best haircuts we can, but we really like to educate – and not just our team. We’re focused on educating our clients, tailoring their haircut to suit their lifestyle,” Kyle explains.

Often handing the brush and the dryer to the client after demonstrating how to finish their hair, he’s determined to foster an atmosphere where clients feel understood and leave feeling confident that they can look great for weeks to come. “There’s no point giving a haircut to someone who then doesn’t have the time to get it to sit in that style every day,” he adds.

Every detail of Sovereign has become focused around offering a level of service that fits into the modern man’s lifestyle.

Open six days a week and starting from 7am for three of those days, the team has been hand-picked to offer a breadth of services, including hot towel shaving, eyebrow waxing and chemical straightening. From early gym-goers to the working professional, Kyle wants to be able to deliver an exquisite finish that leaves every client feeling on top of their game.

With outlets in Edinburgh and Glasgow planned in the next year, Kyle is ready to expand his empire. This month sees the launch of a line of male beauty and spa treatments, as well as a retail range on the brand’s new online store. Long may this Sovereign reign…

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From a stint in the British Army to freelance barber and creator of Brother Barber, Liam’s trade has taken him from Australia to India, backstage on The X Factor and styling for the likes of Diesel and Ted Baker.

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• 10 issues of Creative HEAD magazine – and supplements including Runway, PAINT and HEAD for Business – delivered to your door • Exclusive ticket prices for Creative HEAD events** • Exclusive competitions and prizes • Free product samples from leading professional brands

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Win a hamper of JOICO products Already a Creative HEAD Club member? We’ve got something special for you, too! One lucky club member has the chance to win a hamper of products, worth more than £125. They’ll get the full JOICO Defy Damage range, including the Pro Series 1 and 2, and they’ll also receive the new JOICO Color Intensity LoveFest collection, a duo of two ontrend shades from superstar colourist Larisa Love. Simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD Club members will receive an FOR E email on 1 April!

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UB HEAD CLRS MEMBE ONLY

*For the first 25 new members to sign up between 1 April and 30 April 2019. Subject to availability and no cash equivalent will be offered. **Does not apply to the Most Wanted and The It List Grand Final.

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THEY ALL HAVE

IT!

THEY’RE THE HOTTEST YOUNG STARS OF THE HAIRDRESSING WORLD – MEET THE 2018 WINNERS OF THE IT LIST, IN ASSOCIATION WITH GHD. IT’S OPEN TO BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS UNDER THE AGE OF 30 AND A PRECURSOR TO A METEORIC RISE IN THE INDUSTRY. SO HOW HAVE THE LIVES OF OUR WINNERS CHANGED?

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#TheItList

THE RISING STAR

JORDAN MASSARELLA, NASHWHITE

‘SHOOTING STAR’ MIGHT be a more accurate title for Jordan Massarella.

Alongside a flourishing column at NashWhite in Leamington Spa, his flair for colour has seen his career soar. After winning the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Afro Award in 2017 and earning a place as a L’Oréal Professionnel Colour ID Artist, winning the The It List Rising Star 2018 Award cemented his name as a needto-know colourist.

“The It List is one of the coolest awards in the industry,” Jordan says.

“It acknowledges individuals for their work and is at the forefront of the freshest hairdressing. It was such an honour to be recognised alongside the best of the best! Who wouldn’t want to be a part of it?”

When thinking back over the process, he struggles to put the experience into words. “Thrilling, nerve-wracking, intoxicating,” he says. “It gives you a goal – and when it pays off it’s so rewarding.”

Since clinching the title, work has been flooding in to challenge and invigorate his creative mind. Jordan’s signature Hockney-style hair painting has led to him being in high demand for events and education, even achieving a dream of his and leading a creative colour course with L’Oréal Professionnel. His course focused on treating hair as a canvas for painting, working with wefts and abstract colour placements.

“Working with L’Oréal Professionnel as a guest artist is a dream come true and gives me a great platform to showcase my work. I’ve had the opportunity to work alongside some of my hair idols,” he recalls.

He noted a real shift after his win, too, he felt that a spotlight of awareness had fallen on him. “It was as if people were saying ‘if you don’t know him, you’d better get to know him,’” he laughs.

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#TheItList

THE ENTREPRENEUR

PHIL BENTON, DOUCE “IT WAS ALL quite surreal, really. I had never attended an event like that before, and to walk in and be recognised by those in the industry who have inspired me was incredible,” Phil Benton recalls of last year’s Grand Final, where he scooped the title of The It List Entrepreneur 2018 for his retro Airstream concept salon, douce.

Owning his own business by the age of 25 had been a dream of Phil’s, and in douce he had the perfect vehicle (literally) to bring his dream to fruition. Given his passion for unique concepts, it was no surprise that a former winner was the one to convince him to enter the competition: “Ky Wilson popped in for a haircut and drinks after following us on Instagram, and we just clicked. He explained The Entrepreneur category [which Ky won in 2016] and that got me incredibly excited about The It List.”

When Phil’s name was read out, Ky was one of the first to leap to his feet and embrace the newly-crowned champ. One Airstream has become two, and with a rapidly expanding team to keep up with demand there may well be a douce fleet before long.

“The lifestyle is exciting and our team has grown, along with all of our opportunities and adventures,” Phil says. “Since picking up the award, I have opened a new, bigger Airstream salon, which is located in Shoreditch, with three chairs and three new team members. And I’m on the hunt for more staff…”

A clothing line is on the horizon after a collaboration with jacket brand K-Way, and his win was even covered by ITV. The quirky branding attracted the attention of business schools and universities, many of whom have since invited Phil to speak to inspire their students to think outside the box. But it’s the reaction of his industry and peers that has had the biggest impact. “The nicest part is that it has made me stand out in the industry for doing something innovative – and some say inspiring,” Phil says. “Winning the award gave me such a boost and made me want to push the business even further. The start of the douce journey has gone beyond what I could have imagined. Creating this brand and seeing it evolve has made me eternally excited for the future!”

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Mary Katrantzou A/W19

Versace A/W17

Marc Jacobs A/W18

Sunday Times Style

A T S I N O I H S A F THE

Backstage Mary Katrantzou images by Clement Leon Mogensen

, N E S N E T S I R H C D N U L E N U S S MAD R U O L O C D O O JOSH W

ALWAYS COOL UNDER PRESSURE, Josh Wood’s right hand-man Mads-Sune Lund Christensen had his own catwalk moment at our Grand Final as he took to the stage to accept The It List Fashionista 2018 prize. Shocked into near silence, it took a while for the win to sink in. “The whole competition was very emotional,” Mads admits. “Having had a couple of busy years travelling doing shows, campaigns and clients made me realise I hadn’t had the chance to sit and reflect on all the amazing colour I have had the opportunity to help create. So being able to put it all together and reflect on it was the best experience.”

Juggling salon clients at Josh Wood Colour with work on campaigns, shoots and the runway work he undertakes alongside Redken global color creative director Josh is no mean feat. His commitment to his work and deft touch with colour meant a real buzz about his abilities formed even before his win. It was the chance to reflect on his work that tempted Mads into entering. “Creative HEAD offers a generous platform for contestants’ work and ambitions – I didn’t want to miss getting that exposure,” he says.

His entry for the competition was very, well, Mads. “I didn’t try to make it big or fancy, having been lucky enough to have some really strong images with some of the biggest photographers, hairstylists and make-up artists. I didn’t want anything to take focus away from my work. Keeping it simple and strong was what I felt suited an otherwise very colourful entry.”

Since the awards, his career has gone from strength to strength.

“It has been another crazy year – seeing colour I worked on in three big advertisements in the US Vogue September issue kicked everything off!” he recalls, almost immediately followed by the now iconic colour work by Josh Wood at Marc Jacobs’ S/S19 show, creating vintage pastel perfection.

“We had 37 pastels walking the Marc Jacobs runway – that’s a colour story to be remembered!” he grins. From the streaks of tie-dye coloured wefts for Mary Katrantzou’s elemental show to the icy Wednesday Addams plaits at Prada, Mads’ work continued to help colour the runway for A/W19. And with the 2019 competition now open for entries, his advice for those considering taking part is short and sweet: “Do it. It’s an amazing platform to be seen from and gives brilliant opportunity to reflect on all the long hours and hard work you have put in.”

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Mary Katrantzou A/W19

Mary Katrantzou A/W19

Prep work for Mary Katrantzou A/W19, courtesy of Simon Martin

Marc Jacobs S/S19

Schiaparelli

Love

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See more from Paddy online. Check it out on creativeheadmag.com/paint

PAINT 58

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THE IT GUY

Hunger

PADDY MCDOUGALL, RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL A TWO-TIME FINALIST, Paddy McDougall threw everything he could at his third attempt to finally claim the title of The It List It Guy 2018. His bold, honest manifesto about his career caught the judges’ attention, along with his abundant achievements. The stars aligned and his time had finally come.

“That year I really learnt the difference between finalising and winning! It was about making sure it reflected me and the message I wanted to get across,” Paddy recalls. “I have a clear aesthetic in my work and I wanted to bring that to the entry. I think it was the first time I could actually sit back and say ‘I 100 per cent achieved that’, so that made it good to get the win.”

Already artistic director for Rainbow Room International, a FAME Team member and a Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team winner, The It Guy was the accolade that he was relentlessly chasing after, knowing the opportunities it would bring. “Creative HEAD is the biggest hair magazine around, and these awards are the most reputable in the industry,” he explains.

“It made sense to get involved – it still feels crazy to see my name up there with such illustrious company.”

So, what now? Did the title open up the same opportunities that he had so hoped for? Well yes, it turns out – and more. “I think even just making The It List Grand Final on a couple of previous occasions really helped my profile but winning is a step up again. When you walk into the SportsMax show in Milan and Duffy’s there congratulating you, you know it’s a big deal.”

Since then, Paddy has continued to thrive backstage, working on Duffy’s team for shows such as Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton.

In January he was named the new global ambassador for Indola alongside existing ambassador Andy Smith, jetting off to Barcelona to shoot the new Street Style collection, which lands this month. As one of our PAINTERS, he regularly contributes hot colour trends, techniques and commentary, while also keeping his scissors sharp at the salon in Glasgow.

For anyone thinking of taking a swing at the awards for 2019, Paddy had one clear piece of advice. “First, decide what it is that you want to say; what your message is,” he insists. “Then make sure every aspect of your entry conveys this. I think that’s the secret to nailing it – sometimes it’s worth taking a step back from it for a minute just to check.”

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#TheItList

THE VISIONARY & THE IT GIRL

GRACE DALGLEISH, BROOKS & BROOKS

UNDOUBTEDLY THE BIGGEST winner of the night was Grace Dalgleish, who was named both The It List Visionary and The It List It Girl 2018. Visibly shaking and emotional, Grace blurted out onstage: “I don’t know what to say – I’m blown away!

I need to ring my mum!” At only 23, Grace is a rare talent whose ambition, impeccable colour work and accomplished platform artistry wowed the judges.

She shines in myriad roles as one of the youngest members of the Brooks & Brooks Art Team – educating for L’Oréal Professionnel internationally, running her own colour course and creating the launch image for L’Oréal Professionnel’s Botanēa colour range.

“I’m always looking to push myself and competition work is something I’m passionate about. Win or lose, you gain from the experience,” Grace explains.

Brooks & Brooks has a strong track record of The It List winners (nine awards and counting), and this heritage was partly what inspired her to take part: “Seeing my peers get amazing opportunities is something that definitely inspired me to enter. It was a great way to reflect on the year; it’s not until you start the process that you realise how much you’ve done,” she told us. “I enjoyed it from start to finish and had fun with it.

It’s something I’ll keep forever.”

Her entries for the two awards were distinct – a clean, visual journey through her numerous achievements for The It Girl, and a tour of her character-fuelled Cartoon Vision colour work for The Visionary. “I wanted to create an entry full of solid content that represented the big year I’d had,” she explains. “And for Visionary, each model had huge colour transformations, so I wanted to bring their personality out with colour.”

Cartoon Vision stemmed from one of her street-cast monthly test shoots, where she is constantly experimenting, building confidence in her colour and shoot work. Since her winning moment, Grace has had some truly incredible experiences. From presenting at L’Oréal Professionnel’s Colour Congress with Sally Brooks to educating in Russia and China, her Insta-Colour course has proved a huge hit. “Being part of the Art Team means I get to travel a lot and share my passion as an educator.”

Reflecting back on the momentous night last September, she says: “Winning two awards in one night gave me great exposure and recognition in our industry.” As she looks to her ever-colourful future, Grace had some wise words to share about her experience. “Don’t over-think it and remember to have fun. Create something that you can look back at and be super-proud of – then if you win, that’s a bonus.”

THINK YOU SHOULD BE ON THE IT LIST? Visit creativeheadmag.com/theitlist now to top tips and download your entry form. Deadline is 20 May!

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IT AIN’T NECESSARILY SO THE SWH ART TEAM FROM BRIGHTON’S SIMON WEBSTER HAIR CATAPULTS US BACK TO EVELYN WAUGH’S ROARING TWENTIES WITH BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS, A BOLD STATEMENT IN CLASSIC FINISHES ROUNDED OUT WITH BITING MODERNITY PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNY MCCRACKEN

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HAIR SWH Art Team, Simon Webster Hair, Brighton. CONCEPT AND ART DIRECTION Simon Webster.

COLOUR AND PRODUCTS Goldwell and KMS. MAKE-UP Xoë Kingsley.

In bloom

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Gown by Mishi May (@mishi.may)

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAGIC OWEN CREATIVE HEAD

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THIS PAGE: dress by Courtney Plumb (@courtneyplumbdesign), choker by Kerris Spencer (@kerrisspencer), tights by Pretty Polly (@prettypollylegs), shoes by Ajvani (@ajvanishoes). OPPOSITE PAGE: jacket and dress by Courtney Plumb

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HAIR Anne Veck (@annevecksalons). PHOTOGRAPHY AND RETOUCHING Magic Owen (@magicowenphotography). STYLING Sue Fyfe-Williams (@stylistsfw). MAKE-UP Coco Hirani (@coco.hirani) using @maccosmetics and @bobbibrown, assisted by Naomi Lake (@naomilakemua). MODELS Talli Lindsey at Ciel Model Management (@talli_lyndsey) and Alissa Polanski at Model Union (@greenfairy222). Giant poppies: Tissue Blossoms (@tissue_blossoms)

Scene THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

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Neil Purves (left)

and Joshua Miller

NOW IN ITS 19th year, the Charlie Miller Achievement Awards are a celebration of the 110 staff working across the five-strong Edinburgh salon group. This year they were held at the Kimpton Hotel in the city’s Charlotte Square and hosted by radio and TV presenter Grant Stott. The event saw founders Charlie and Janet Miller also welcome guests from Kérastase, L’Oréal Professionnel and distributor We Are Hair & Beauty. With an astonishing 25 individual awards presented on the night, there was a lot for joint managing directors, Jason and Joshua Miller to get through, along with artistic director India Miller. Men’s Stylist of the Year was won

by Neil Purves, while the Grand Prix award for Outstanding Hairdresser of the Year was presented to a delighted Rosslyn Orr, salon manager at the South St Andrew Street salon, who also scooped Head Technician of the Year.

Jason Miller, Rosslyn Orr

SCOTS

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21/03/2019 10:35

Raise the

2019 MARKS A pretty monumental year for grooming brand American Crew as it celebrates its 25th birthday, so the excitement was turned up to 11 at the UK and Ireland final of the All Star Challenge. The barbers crowned national winners would stand a chance of making it to the global final in New York in May, guaranteed to be one heck of a party!

Guests piled into private members’ club The Curtain in Shoreditch to celebrate all the finalists and hear from UK and Ireland general manager Lisa Jackson on the high standard in this year’s 200-plus entries. With judges including barbers Ian Harrold and Alan Beak, and grooming guru Lee Kynaston, the pressure was on to deliver. But deliver they did – for the UK, Gemma Willock-Smith from Frequency Barber in Glasgow won the top spot, with Jacks of London’s Kieran Evans the runner-up. For Ireland, it was the second consecutive year that ST4Men’s Chris O’Riordan took top honours, with Barry Kieran from Signature Hair the runnerup. Let’s hope it will be a New York state of mind for both winners next month…

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Gemma Willock-Smith, Lisa Jackson and Kieran Evans

CURTAIN

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Hair by Lucie Monbillard and Skyler Hanna Hair by Rachel Valentine and Lloyd Court

FETISH

IT WAS A throwback to the ’80s for seanhanna’s Retro Future-themed annual awards show. From wool-infused braids to Tetris stencilling, directors Skyler Hanna, Yesmin O’Brien, Lucie Monbillard, Lloyd Court and senior educator Rachel Valentine lit up the stage with bold creations, focusing on texture and colour. Colour specialist and creative director Skyler Hanna said at the event: “The ’80s was all about big volume and texture. I wanted to bring a new age of hair into the show and use geometric shapes to create iconic haircuts.” After the show it was on to the awards, celebrating the group’s collective hard work and achievements from throughout the year. Ilker Nalkiran from Canary Wharf scooped Creative Image Mens, Avant Garde and Style, while Kirsty Jones from Worcester Park won Creative Image Colour. Congratulations to Wimbledon, which was named as the seanhanna Salon of the Year.

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Tomm Bucknell, general manager of seanhanna Putney; Skyler Hanna and Sean Hanna

Future

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20/03/2019 13:15

CREATIVE HEAD VIDEO MADE BY US… ESPECIALLY FOR YOU

PRESS PLAY> TOP HAIR ARTISTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD On set and in action

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Most Wanted & The It List Awards…

Featured Artist LIVE… Salon Smart…

The Coterie: In Session…

NEW TRENDS, NEW IDEAS Expertly created, beautifully filmed and ready to watch

Waiting for you now at:

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Ooh! Pkai Hair images on the new inspirational lightboxes at the Wella studio!

One of my VIP clients…

Cheeky haircut from fellow photographer @DesmondMurray on the @wellahairuk #TrendVision Create Your Look tour

In the

Tea m training! This month, cutting techniques

frame Kai Wan (@kaiwan17), founder of Pkai Hair and photographer, snaps away

Fa mily trip to the National Track Cha mpionships in Manchester

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

Wow! A six-page feature in @practicalphotography magazine!

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Switching off – skiing with the fa mily

A close-up shot I took at the recent Create Your Look tour

Editorial shoot for our local magazine Gravitas – I did the hair and shot the cover!

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18/03/2019 12:47

www.organiccoloursystems.com

To find out how to become an Organic Colour Systems stockist contact:

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Hair: Organic Colour Systems Salon Mentors; Michel Koller, Stefanie Kaufman, Tracey Burnap Make-up: Tara Sanger Photography: Magdalena Bieth Creative Direction: Karine Jackson

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