head February 2013 e7.50
c r e a t i v e
Ireland C r e at i v e H e a d I r e l a n d February 2013
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Hair by Matrix Destination.Fame 2012 winners Raymond Bottone, Ashleigh Hodges and Georgina Mucklin, with mentors Paul Falltrick, Hooker & Young and Jamie Stevens, using Matrix products. Hair colour by Donna Paterson, Lee Pearce, Nicola Chamberlain and Laura Carroll, using Matrix COLORINSIDER, SOCOLOR.beauty, Color Sync, Light Master and Colorgraphics2. Make-up and nails by Tricia Woolston, assisted by Nadia Altinbas, Georgia Brafield, Sally Bahri and Nicola Springall, using Suqqu and Essie. Fashion by Lucy Long. Photography by Jon Baker, assisted by Niko Avelardi.
Playful
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Creative Head Promotion Promotion
Raymond Bottone
Strike a pose
Ashleigh Hodges
Georgina Mucklin
Imagine all you can be... the mantra for hair product innovator, Matrix, making the brand an easy choice for Creative HEAD to collaborate with on this month’s exclusive cover collection. Bursting with personality, the spirited images champion style and self-expression, but behind the enchanting collection is a beautiful blend of bombshell blondes and a crop of new talent, including three hairdressers ready to get noticed. Here’s the full story… Reportage photography by JOdie herbage
The fame game Last June, three ambitious young hairdressers were named the winners of Destination.Fame – a national, annual competition run by Matrix that searches for talented stylists who can showcase their skill, creativity and bold attitude in a single image, and later in front of a panel of expert judges. Raymond Bottone, Ashleigh Hodges and Georgina Mucklin scooped the trophies, and by July the triumphant trio was embarking on a career-enhancing 12-month schedule packed with stage and session experiences, tickets to overseas events and priceless PR and marketing opportunities – all courtesy of Matrix. But it didn’t stop there. By September, plans were in full swing for a special photographic project – Creative HEAD Ireland’s February cover collection, showcasing unique style and the versatility of Matrix Blondes! Joining an exceptional team of creatives and mentored by some of the UK and Ireland’s hottest hair talent, Raymond, Ashleigh and Georgina are ready for action…
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IDEAS FACTORY
a multitude of blonde On a rainy Sunday in November a team of colourists got to work creating and Georgina – coupled Ashleigh d, Raymon stylists tones on the six models cast for the project, while the two-day shoot. for prepared – Stevens Jamie and Young & with mentors Paul Falltrick, Hooker flooded the ideas! in and es magazin the came out each, create to looks four and Assigned two briefs ed. determin Moodboards helped to capture them and 12 incredible styles were
TWO MINUTES WITH
GEORGINA MUCKLIN Nominated for many young talent trophies and a double award-winner at her salon’s in-house awards, 23-year-old Georgina, a stylist at Hooker & Young’s Winyard location, has been giving her all to hairdressing for seven years. As a Destination.Fame winner, she’s been touring the UK and Ireland assisting the Matrix Artistic Team, and feels prouder than ever to be a hairdresser
Hooker & Young CREATIVE HEAD / MATRIX STYLING BRIEF PASTELS AND METALLICS Working with a range of pastel colours, silver and gold metallics and all textures from leather and perspex to latex and chiffon, faux furs and sequins. Each character will be styled uniquely to suit their theme but within this colour and texture range to keep all cohesive. STYLING NOTES
PUSHING BOUNDARIES “I like things that some people might find ugly. Hair and images that are edgy, push boundaries and are not necessarily commercial.”
Playful 60s, coquettish wth a nod to baroque Edgy Sexy, distressed, armourlike Famous opulent, sexy, glamourous Fashion Stylish, layered and a little eccentric
I’LL HAVE WHAT SHE’S HAVING I “I saw a video about Destination.Fame at a Matrix Live roadshow and thought to myself ‘I want that!’. It’s amazing – not only do you have the prestige of winning, you get a year of fame with the Artistic Team.”
Chic Strong, tailored, minimal and feminine Iconic One surreal art/fashion piece but styled to look cool and uncontrived.
Paul Falltrick
LIGHTS, CAMERA… “The highlight of my career to date was this shoot! I loved coming up with the hair ideas with my mentor, Jamie Stevens, and it was such a a buzz putting them into action. It was my first ever photoshoot so I was looks.” our about dent confi felt I but little nervous MY MENTOR “Jamie (pictured with Georgina) was amazing – I could not have asked for a better support. He gave me great tips and encouraged me to take control when shooting.” MOVING ON UP “My year with Destination.Fame has fueled my passion for hairdressing and my desire to succeed. My next goal is to enter the Most Wanted and It List awards.”
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Jamie Stevens
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Creative Head Promotion Promotion
two minutes with
Ashleigh Hodges Hair Life’s busy for 22-year-old Ashleigh, creative director of family-run Flame of winner crowned been she’s year, past the Studios in Towcester. During a 2012 Destination.Fame, worked at hair shows in South Africa and California as List It HEAD’s FAME Team member, and reached the final of Creative Magic moments me “So far I’ve had an awesome time as a Destination.Fame winner – it’s given getting definitely was cake and my salon fantastic media exposure. The icing on the to work with Creative HEAD and Hooker & Young on this very cool shoot!” She shoots, she scores e’s “I loved working on a collection that was more editorial, and seeing everyon a with only work apher photogr our interpretations. It was really cool to watch before.” that seen single camera – I’ve not My mentors tips “Hooker & Young (pictured with Ashleigh) were awesome. I learned extra tweak, small a with level next the to them take to how and on polishing my styles career.” my progress to how on advice brilliant some received and I Because the lady loves… eye. I “Everything! Everywhere I go I take photos of anything that catches my ly.” constant bloggers and s designer follow I geek; network social a am also
t e ki nd o bl l ia nt se Es ts duc pro Even seasoned stylists need star to help them work their magic...
EMILY’S BLONDE Matrix Color Sync 6A, 8P, 10P and SPV, and Colorgraphics2 Lightening Powder, Promoter 22 and Blueberry Pigment
For the blow-dry Matrix Design Pulse Thermo Glide
For body Matrix Design Pulse Go Big Mousse
Sandra’s blonde Matrix COLORINSIDER 7NW and Clear
For hold Matrix Design Pulse Zoom Force
For control Matrix Design Pulse Loosely Defined
Beth’s blonde Matrix Color Sync 6WN, 7WN and Copper Booster, and Colorgraphics2 Lightening Powder, Promoter 8 and Mocha Pigment
What lies ahead? at “I’ll be on tour with Destination.Fame in the spring and I’ll be looking .” forward myself push to ng continui and tions competi more entering
two minutes with
Raymond Bottone Raymond has managed London’s hip barbershop, Murdoch, launched his own business in Brentwood and ran a pop-up salon in Ozwald Boateng’s shop on Savile Row. And all before he turned 25! Star turn “I hadn’t won anything before, so it was a massive buzz to win Destination.Fam e. There were so many people in the room that I thought were more worthy than me, but the judges appreciated me and my style, which was fantastic.”
For texture Matrix Design Pulse Get Action Spray Wax
For brilliance Matrix Design Pulse Mix In Shine
Egle’s blonde Matrix Light Master, and COLORINSIDER 10GV, 10V and Clear
For shine Matrix Design Pulse Surround Shine
For volume Matrix Design Pulse Mega Dust
MarI’s blonde Matrix SOCOLOR.beauty UL VV and UL NV+, and Colorgraphics2 Lightening Powder, Promoter 8 and Mocha Pigment
Dedicated follower of fashion “I love fashion – it’s the reason I ended up at Boateng; during the time I was there I was recommending suits and colours for the team – I have a genuine passion for it.” Eyes wide open “The Creative HEAD shoot was an absolutely brilliant experience! Meeting new people was the best bit. Witnessing a professional shoot has opened up my eyes.” My mentor “I learnt a lot from Paul Falltrick (pictured with Raymond). He gave me business and PR advice and showed me new techniques. As soon as we starting talking we knew we were on the same path, we connected.” Next up “I’ve picked up so much advice and met so many people. I’m energised, raring to get back to work and looking forward to integrating the many things I’ve learnt, not just creatively but in business, too.”
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For strong hold Matrix Vavoom Freezing Spray
For definition Matrix Design Pulse Play Back
Emma’s blonde Matrix SOCOLOR.beauty UL IA, 10P, Colorgraphics2 Lightening Powder, Promoter 22 and Blueberry Pigment
For contrOL Matrix Design Pulse Rock Solid
For firm hold Matrix Design Pulse Hair Lock
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Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion
LOVE THAT TEAM SPIRIT And so to shoot! Pull together a team as dedicated, inspired and enthusia stic as this one, and you can hope for great results. As everybody got to work – moving from blow-dry ing to body-buffing and models waltzing in and out of wardrobe – the looks began to emerge and it was clear we were watching something extraordinary take shape. Sure enough, as the photogr apher hit the button, the magic happened. Personalities shone on-set and as each brief was met, a cover was born.
RE ESSERS IN THE UK AND IRELAND. FOR MO RDR HAI ALL TO N OPE IS AND RCH MA 1 DESTINATION.FAME 2013 LAUNCHES ON 2 4060 (UK) 1800 509 472 (IRELAND). 876 020 L CAL OR UK CO. ME. NFA TIO INA VISIT WWW.DEST INFORMATION ABOUT THE COMPETITION, LIOS, VISIT WWW.MATRIXHAIRCARE.CO.UK TFO POR G LIN STY AND NDE BLO X TRI MA FOR DETAILS OF THE FULL
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fresh thinking on business
Who do you
want to meet
today?
Meet & Mix
Talk shop with your hairdressing heroes – face to face Andrew Barton Dylan Bradshaw Errol Douglas MBE Carolyn Newman Ken West
Working Lunch
Discuss your business needs with top hairdressing brands Goldwell KMS California 3.6.5 American Dream Easydry MyHairDressers.com Millennium Software The Hair Group
Salon Smart Creates
Salon Smart is presented by
Learn how to shoot for success! The photographer: John Rawson, The Rawson Partnership The hairdressers: Darren Webster and Lisa Whiteman, Webster Whiteman The PR: Sharleen Hunter, Unleashed Potential The magazine editor: Lauren Margrave, Creative HEAD
Sponsored by
In association with
Cake breaks!
What better way to benchmark your business than by chatting with fellow delegates – 300 independent salon owners from across the UK, just like you!
Salon Smart – The ultimate business networking event from Creative HEAD
28-29 April 2013 Park Plaza Riverbank, London
Book your Salon Smart tickets now Call 01434 610944
For more information visit www.creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
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We are proud to have partnered with very talented stylists to bring these S/S 2013 shows to life. Thank You!
as chosen by backstage stylists
7846 Fashion Week DPS L’Oreal
FINAL SIGN OFF: DESIGN:
ACCOUNT MANAGER:
CLIENT:
19.09.2012
COLOURS (MATCH TO PANTONE® COLOUR STANDARD)
DATE:
01
Cyan
Magenta
Yellow
ARTWORK VERSION:
230mm x 300mm DIMENSION:
NOTES:
Artwork at a scale of 1:1
Twelve Interior & Graphic Design The Old School House, 41 Woodbridge Street , London, EC1R 0ND +44 (0)20 7251 7878 www.twelve-studio.co.uk
Black
CLIENT:
Maria Grachvogel Daks Kinder Aggugini Issa London Preen Marios Schwab Topshop Unique Temperley Peter Pilotto Michael Van der Ham Ashish Nico Didonna Caroline Charles Christopher Ciconne Palmer Harding Ashley Isham Jackie J.S. Lee FASHION FRINGE: Haizhen Wang, Teija Eilola & Vita Gottlief Emilio de la Morena Craig Lawrence KTZ Laura Columbo & Carlotta Gherzi
7846 Fashion Week DPS L’Oreal
FINAL SIGN OFF: DESIGN:
ACCOUNT MANAGER:
CLIENT:
19.09.2012
COLOURS (MATCH TO PANTONE® COLOUR STANDARD)
DATE:
01
Cyan
Magenta
Yellow
ARTWORK VERSION:
230mm x 300mm DIMENSION:
NOTES:
Artwork at a scale of 1:1
Twelve Interior & Graphic Design The Old School House, 41 Woodbridge Street , London, EC1R 0ND +44 (0)20 7251 7878 www.twelve-studio.co.uk
Black
CLIENT:
editor’s letter
February CREATIVE HEAD Ireland
17
40 44
It was recently reported that for every E100 spent in a locally owned store, E45 stays in the economy, compared with E14 if spent with a multi-national. As a local business owner or employee, you can appreciate how important it is to support Irish enterprise, so in this issue we look at how salon wholesalers can meet the demand for much of your salon needs. Traditionally it might not have been viewed as the most exciting place to do business, but the past few years have seen a transformation in this sector, with salon wholesalers now scouring the globe to bring the latest products to our market in record-breaking time. They take orders around the clock, often deliver supplies within 24 hours and they can be called upon for interior design advice and to inspire your team from on-site academies. We take a closer look at the modern meaning of a salon cash and carry from page 32. We also turn our attention to Spring/Summer trends in this issue, and notably the shows that stormed New York, London, Milan and Paris. The magnetism of the East, the call of iconic ’60s fashion and a new design purity, were a few key drivers that inspired designers and session stylists alike. Turn to page 42 for the lowdown and then get to work on devising a new season consultation plan for your clients and a plethora of inspirational S/S13 style services. Finally, at the time of going to press, we were putting the finishing touches to Creativeheadmag.com, our innovative new website. Now with a super-slick functionality, what you see is automatically resized to fit any screen, from PC to smartphone. Among new additions are a dedicated Runway section brimming with session news, profiles and step-by-steps straight from backstage, Creative HEAD TV and a burgeoning archive of shoots on Hair Looks. So get your Creative HEAD fix whenever you want it!
Sarah Manley sarah@headmag.ie
Follow @CreativeHEADIrl on Twitter Find us on Facebook, search ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ Creative Head Ireland 06
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Supercharged curls in just one touch To become a stockist: call 0844 844 0944 or 01890 812 022 (from Ireland) www.bedhead.com @TIGIcreatives
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contents
February
free range
Alfol
What’s inside
Ltd
PUBLISHING 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London N1 6ND
Editor
Sarah Manley Contributor 16/9/10 12:37:12
REGULars _ 17 the source House of Colour announces a new creative team, Wella offers the chance to go to Brazil and Dylan Bradshaw talks business
Art director
Nick Jabbal Art
Graeme White Chief sub editor
Adam Wood Special projects manager
58 _ the last word
Up your game to capitalise on retail, says business coaching expert Antony Whitaker
Joanna Andersen Advertising managers
Sarah Manley ben baldock Editor in chief
Amanda nottage
features
32 _ Supply and demand
Salon wholesale has evolved to become a gateway to a smooth-running salon, helping you build local links and maximise profits
Publisher
catherine handcock
WRITE TO US AT: CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND 6-9 Trinity STreet DUBLIN 2 T: 01 617 7947 Email: sarah@headmag.ie Go online to www.creativeheadmag.com, find ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ on Facebook or follow us on Twitter: @CreativeHEADIrl Download the Creative HEAD App here: Creative HEAD Ireland is published 10 times a year by ALFOL Ltd. Creative HEAD Ireland is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
fashion
42 _ Summer loving
We reveal the most incredible looks from the global catwalks of S/S13, from the mod squad at Marc Jacobs in New York to grunge at Preen in London
52 _ Edge of darkness
Johanna Cree Brown reveals beauty, colour and texture on a high-fashion canvas
54 _ Tough Love
A dramatic interpretation of the season’s gothic punk trend, from the Rush Session Team
head c r e a t i v e
February 2013 e7.50
Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetablebased inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
Ireland
ON the COVER Hair Matrix Destination.Fame 2012 team Make-up and nails Tricia Woolston Fashion Lucy Long Photography Jon Baker SUBSCRIBE NOW And you’ll receive Affinage Infiniti Intelligent Colour System kit, worth more than E60 Turn to page 50 for more information
Gianfranco Ferré, courtesy of TIGI
Aoibhinn Mcbride
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Supercharged straight with 98% humidity resistance To become a stockist: call 0844 844 0944 or 01890 812 022 (from Ireland) www.bedhead.com @TIGIcreatives
Gomez Styling Ad 230x300mm.indd 2
/TIGIprofessional
19/12/2012 15:50
More beautiful. More innovative. More to love!
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Desktop. Mobile. Tablet.
NEW!
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Touch it. Tap it. Click it!
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Fashion. Videos. Trends.
NEW!
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Parties. Gossip. News.
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Matthew Luke M A D E I N I TA LY
Don't miss the Salon Concept 2013 magazine, available now!
Chairs: Square, Leonardo Mirrors: Titanium, Unique, Barcelona Black Washunits: Lux Desk: Millennium Crystal
DUBLIN - Unit 3, Red Cow Retail Centre, Robin Hood Road, Ballymount Tel. 01 464 2771 LIMERICK - Building 6 Delta Retail Park, Ballysimon Road Tel. 061 212028 Fax 061 212030 info@essentialsalon.ie www.essentialsalon.ie
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source
Take a trip down aviary lane, dublin’s hot new salon
the
Page 23
House of Colour announces new creative team Dublin salon group House of Colour has revealed the stylists who have made it onto its 2013 Creative Team. Olive Tucker-Lee, Darren Lacken, Stephanie Byrne and Shauna McGrath are the lucky hairdressers that will form the crew, which was first launched in 2000 by the seven-strong salon group. The quartet will provide in-house education and media work for the group, and will participate in a wide range of competitions. “The Creative
Team has become the pinnacle for any hairdresser to be a part of. They understand that hairdressing is constantly evolving and work to break boundaries,” said House of Colour co-owner David Campbell. “It’s also about selecting a group of people who are going to put Irish hairdressing on the international stage – where it belongs.” Two team members are already established stylists; Darren is a member of the Sebastian Professional CULT Team and Olive JAN
is a member of the KMS California Art Team, while Stephanie and Shauna are emerging artists. “Shauna has a fantastic flair for hairdressing and incredible imagination,” added David. “Stephanie has talent, guts, determination and a fantastic eye for precision hairdressing.” The team is already embarking on a series of projects. First and foremost, explained Darren, is “a totally new way of cutting hair that we will introduce to all the House of Colour teams”.
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Stephanie Byrne, Shauna McGrath, Darren Lacken and Olive Ticker-Lee
news, products and business know-how It all starts here…
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February 2013
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Denis Robinson
the latest news from the industry
Toni&Guy Ireland appoints hair business guru Artistic and business development expert Denis Robinson has joined Toni&Guy Ireland as business manager for all eight of the brand’s salons. Commenting on his new role, he said: “The idea is that I go in with a fresh set of eyes, see how the salons are operating, work with each of the salon managers to give them fresh ideas and reinvigorate the Toni&Guy Ireland brand.” In particular, Denis will be putting his artistic experience to full use in this role. “A big job will be to re-establish
the Toni&Guy Ireland Art Team,” he says. “There will be increasing opportunities for people who want to stretch themselves creatively and who will go forward to establish Toni&Guy Ireland as an artistic force available for press, shows and shoots.” However, he admits: “Without the business you can’t afford to do the creativity, so one will feed off the other.” Denis started out working at Partners in Belfast before moving to London to work with Charles Worthington in 1990, where he went on to manage
the salon group’s art team and become group salon manager. He led product development for the brand, helping launch Charles Worthington Haircare and playing a vital role building the brand in the US. On departing Charles Worthington in 2001, Denis went on to spearhead art teams at Brooks+Brooks and boost business at Cobella AC in Selfridges. During his time in London, Denis was signed to Models 1 Creative, where he styled a client base of global musicians and worked on shoots for leading publications (pictured above).
Dylan Bradshaw joins elite at Salon Smart 2013
win a chance to make waves in Brazil
Salon owner Dylan Bradshaw (right) is one of the latest names to be confirmed for Salon Smart 2013 in April. He joins other successful salon owners, including Andrew Barton and Errol Douglas MBE, at the Creative HEAD business networking event’s ‘meet and mix’ session, where they will offer advice to delegates on business ideas and dilemmas. Salon Smart is headlined by Gary Hooker and Michael Young, owners of luxury salon group Hooker & Young, and includes further speakers; photographer John Rawson, PR guru Sharleen Hunter and business expert Ken West of 3·6·5. Salon Smart takes place on 28 and 29 April in London. Visit Creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart for more
Irish hairdressers now have the chance to join Wella Professionals Making Waves charity, created in conjunction with Unicef. The fundraising programme has been opened up to stylists from Ireland and the UK, to help vulnerable young people in Brazil through hairdressing education and life skills. As part of the initiative, two hairdressers will be selected to join a mentoring trip to Brazil in September. To date, the programme has raised more than E815,000 for people living in Recife and Belém. To apply, speak to your Wella account manager. Application entries close on 15 March.
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NEWS February
Tara Smartt
My month ahead
What does February have in store for… Sean Bryan
Cut & Sew, Dublin We are shooting our first lookbook with amazing photographer Joshua Gordon. We have already cast two great models that will capture the look of Cut & Sew. We have also set up private one-to-one barbering and classic cut courses which will be carried out this month.
L’Oréal Professionnel reveals new ID ARTISTS Tara Smartt and Jennifer Lil Buckley have been announced as the newest members of the L’Oréal Professionnel ID ARTIST team. Tara, from Hession Hairdressing in Clontarf, and Jennifer Lil, from Brown Sugar in South William Street, have joined the two-year development programme alongside Mark Byrne from Brown Sugar and Stephen Doyle from Davey Davey in Dublin, who have made it onto sister programme COLOUR ID ARTIST. The four will learn signature cut and colour looks, session styling, presentation and communication skills; they will be the first to preview L’Oréal Professionnel’s seasonal collections and gain valuable platform opportunities at the brand’s Catwalk Showcase Tours.
Melitta Saunders
Scene, Clare
Alexander Wang S/S13, courtesy of Redken
With business as it is at the moment, staff education and personal development are a must. I am a member of Synergy in Limerick – it’s a group of salon owners who have gotten together to help small salons in our area through training, and is just starting. We will also be finalising our entry for Wella Professionals TrendVision Award.
Paul Hession
HEssion HairdressinG
If you only do one thing this month... Prepare for some serious trend watching and backstage hair analysis this February. Fashion month kicks off in New York on 7 February, London on 15 February, Milan on 19 February and Paris on 26 February. See live screenings from Style.com, Liverunway.com and the British Fashion Council’s YouTube channel. Also keep an eye on Creativeheadmag.com for backstage reports and interviews, and download the Creative HEAD App for an extra fashion fix! JAN
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We’ve just launched our new BUFF Make Up range and a Make Up Suite, which will be a big focus for us. We have added Great Lengths extensions to our salons and we are planning to re-launch Hessionhairdressing.ie and introduce online shopping to Buffmakeup.com. Finally, we are hosting a Voices evening for L’Oréal Professionnel on 4 February in Dublin.
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hotograph for ghd, p a n en K y Hair b
Mitchell y by Jem
New products, tools and colours
want it!
Total eclipse
Transforming the lives of millions the globe over, it’s hard to fathom a time when a ghd wasn’t within easy reach. Now the brand is revolutionising the hair world once more with the ghd eclipse. Advanced tri-zone technology keeps the styler at a consistent 185°C across the entire ceramic plate, so it performs and perfects a section of hair in a single stroke, even on the frizziest of manes. For stylists working a fast column or backstage, the hi-tech aerogel insulation ensures a cool outer body even after 45 minutes of use. Needless to say, it will be hard to put down. RRP e245 Call 0044 1924 423400
www.ghdhair.com
The brush brigade The Bristle Brush Company’s capsule collection of all-natural, hand-crafted boar bristle brushes is the result of two decades of research by founder Sophie Wiltshire.
Philip Kingsley’s Handbag Brush & Case is not only brilliant for reducing static and flyaways, it’s also gentle on the scalp and comes complete with a leather-look case.
Tangle Teezer’s latest compact styler, Gold Rush, will make magpies out of all of us. Keep up appearances and stock up fast. RRP e12 Call 0044 20 7237 7100
RRP e16.95 Call 061 212 028
RRP from e27 Call 0044 1932 706881
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www.thebristlebrushcompany.com
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NEWS February
Decadently delicious Can haircare get anymore decadent than Alterna’s Caviar Repairx? Made with caviar extract – a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin C to fight damage before it starts, this range is clinically proven to reduce breakage by 95 per cent. It works to fill in gaps in the cuticle through four products: Instant Recovery Shampoo and Conditioner, Micro-Bead Fill & Fix Treatment Masque and Re-Texturizing Protein Cream. RRP from e40 Call 0044 1925 578000
Straight up Super-powered Straighten Out from Bed Head by TIGI provides seriously straight hair for 48 hours. Thermo-setting polymers work with the heat from hot irons to provide humidityproof, smooth and straight hair.
Hair by Laurent Philippon for Bumble and bumble, photography by David Oldham
www.alternahaircare.com
Big hitter A decade after the creation of Sumowax, session stylist Laurent Philippon dreamt of bringing a softer side to the Sumo family. He created a concept that was strong on shine but soft on hold, and Semisumo is the result. Part wax, part oil, it delivers definition and detail without weighing hair down. RRP e25 Call 0044 800 014 7424 www.bumbleandbumble.co.uk
RRP e15.50 Call 0044 844 844 0944
www.tigihaircare.com
Cheers to that It turns out a popular beverage contains the perfect ingredients to eliminate extra dirt and oil. Introducing Redken For Men’s new clean brew extra cleansing shampoo, featuring a blend of three common ingredients found in beer: malt to nourish and condition hair; yeast to strengthen and build body; and orange zest to purify. RRP e12 Call 1800 818 680 www.redken.com
the Power of six Those clever people at Fudge have made clay work for hair by adding French green clay into six matte mineral texture products. The new Fudge Textures range of six products includes clay, styling milk, clay wax, styling dust, rocket spray and deconstruction spray – and all create fabulous texture and movement in hair, without having to set, tong or curl locks.
RRP from e14.60 Call 01 872 4700 www.fudge.com
Feeling weak? Find some extra muscle in série expert Pro-Keratin Refill from L’Oréal Professionnel. The range is enriched with amino acids to strengthen hair, and wheat protein to improve and maintain hydration. Together they work to protect the hair from external tormentors and rebuild damage from inside, out with four products – Correcting Care Shampoo, Conditioner, Masque and Protective Cream.
JAN
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RRP From e13.60 Call 1800 535 616 www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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business advice and stylish interiors
TASKFORCE
Business Pro Dylan Bradshaw
Owner, Dylan Bradshaw Salon and Academy, Dublin I start my working day… rounding up my kids for breakfast before heading off to work. Once I arrive at the salon and academy, I catch up with one of the four receptionists who gives me an update, and then I meet my first client of the day. My column is normally really busy, so we have a team meeting at the end, rather than the start of the day. I cope with pressure by… going to the gym. As you get older, the pressure gets easier. I was ready to go into business… when I was 27, although I was always ready to start my own business – I was just waiting for the finances to catch up. When I opened my salon in Dublin, I looked at what was on offer and thought I could do better, so I went for it. The biggest risk I have taken… I don’t look at anything as a risk. Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose, but when you believe in what you do it’s all for a reason. I never take for granted… the team I have around me and the clients that come through the door.
Dylan Bradshaw Academy
Dylan Bradshaw salon
The biggest challenge in business today… is keeping the team motivated and excited, and creating energy – it’s not just about money.
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There’s an app for that
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See your work on the App
An app can offer a host of business opportunities, so isn’t it time your salon joined the mobile revolution? Not so long ago, a website was considered the essential tool for business, but as smartphones take over and app downloading soars, it’s evident that a mobile presence is what matters most. But just how can an app benefit your salon? “Mobile apps are a cost-effective way to reach existing and potential customers,” explains Mariyam Azher, director of Salon Booking App. “They allow salon owners to provide clients with the latest offers and promotions, helping them to grow their business and to retain existing clients.” The benefits don’t end there – apps enhance accessibility to your business as they can work offline and are an inexpensive branding and marketing tool. “It’s important for us to be with our clients constantly and technology allows us to do that with updates and information on our app,” says David Campbell, co-owner of House of Colour, which launched a salon app a year ago. “It allows us to reach our clients more directly than ever before and the results are there.” The app has had more than 2,500 downloads and was in the top 10 free downloadable apps in Ireland. Besides keeping your brand contemporary, an app also provides great publicity,
click smart Salon Booking App’s Mariyam Azher shares her top App tips
and when integrated with social media platforms, will vastly increase business exposure and sales. Even brands such as L’Oréal Professionnel INOA are using apps to reach new customers, while Wella Professionals is aiming at the industry by making the Wella Education Book 2013 available for iPad. And not forgetting creative inspiration on the go. Creative HEAD App, launched in December, contains exclusive imagery and video footage, interviews with hair greats, celebrity style, backstage reports from Fashion Week and more. If you’re keen to get the most from an app, consider the needs of your business and research your clients thoroughly before deciding on the functions to offer. “Apps should provide clients with the information they need most when they are on the go,” says Mariyam. “For example, contact details, an appointment scheduler, a gallery to view the latest styles, products and services, access to special offers and directions to the salon, all with just the tap of a finger.” House of Colour’s app includes The Hair Doctor function, where clients can take a picture and ask the salon to solve their hair problems, and a Hairspy section where clients can rate their visit – promoting stronger customer service standards within the seven-strong salon group.
• An app offers true convenience – clients can book online 24/7. • Make your app simple and user-friendly. Allow customers to quickly book their appointment, see new offers and products on the go. • Ensure your app is easy to download. For example, allow customers to download by simply scanning a QR code. • Engage your customers with updated content and offers. Engaging more customers results in getting more business. • An app should be easy to update. Choose a service that provides an admin control panel.
Creative Creative Head HEAD Ireland 14 22
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NEWS February
interiorscape
Aviary Lane
South Anne Street, Dublin 2 It’s one of the hottest new salons to hit Ireland and we’ve got the lowdown, courtesy of owners and sisters Elaine and Pamela Sullivan
Space 1,700sq ft Team Six, including hair, make-up, reception and apprentices. Styling 13 styling sections in total, one of which is in a private room. Backwash Four backwash basins with scope for two more. The design Comfort and functionality were at the forefront of the design decisions we made. Everything had to have a home and a function. We love to mix old with new and we did that with strong, clean lines complemented by the comfort of interiors that have withstood time. Colour palette We stayed primarily on the grey scale, with the bold railings making the biggest impression. We softened this with bleached wood panelling and then jumped across the
colour circle with yellow glass tops to make the grey pop. We needed something that wasn’t going to date; a dynasty needs to be timeless. Investment piece Our location. We put everything either of us had into Aviary Lane and splurged on being 100 yards from Grafton Street. Favourite area Two Georgian windows upstairs that frame busy South Anne Street. Salon soundtrack It ranges from Ella Fitzgerald and The Kinks to Grimes and Lenka. Future plans Our short-term goal is to build on our clientele and to up our staff levels to a team of about 10. Our long-term goal is to have a happy team, working in a strong educationfocused environment.
hot buys Stylish new chairs with lasting quality White noise Want super-sleek style without compromising on comfort? Try the Bow styling chair from Olymp in pure white.
Impulse buys Acid green, turquoise and coral red will combine to help your salon have an energetic impact, with Salon Ambience’s Impulse range.
Numbers game Durable and delightfully designed, the G-90 collection from TakaraBelmont is all about attention to detail.
Price e725 Contact 053 912 3681
Price e425 Contact 061 212 028
Price e800 Contact 0044 20 7515 0333
www.gainfort.com
www.essentialsalon.ie
www.takara.co.uk/hairdressing
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Creative Head Ireland 23
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a new styler for a new era Bring order to the chaos of hard-to-tame textures with a new kind of heat technology – unique patented tri-zone™ technology. Unveiling a new ghd styler that will empower you to rule over every hair texture, from the first pass to the final flourish. All textures will obey; from the rebellious and unruly to full-on headstrong Afro hair.
The ghd eclipse is ready. Are you?
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the ghd eclipse what you’ll love – The freedom to unleash your creativity – A professional tool that rises to every challenge – The confidence to tackle every hair texture – A consistently perfect finish – Intelligent, instant heat from finely finished plates – An easy-to-use and super-efficient kit bag must-have – A styler that respects hair condition – A styler that will have your clients begging to buy
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what you’ll get – New and unique patented tri-zone™ technology with six quick-thinking sensors for precise thermal control – First pass texture taming for all hair types, from the rebellious and unruly to full on headstrong Afro hair – A kind and constant heat at an optimal 185°C to minimise hair damage – Super-fine precision-finished plates that glide through even thick, frizzy hair – Ready to tame the toughest textures in under 20 seconds, while ultra-fast plate cooling sets styles perfectly – Aerogel insulation for a cool-to-the-touch outer shell, even after 45 minutes of use – Premium feel and design to create a truly professional impression
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the ghd eclipse
what you say
Under the exacting eye of top stylists, the ghd eclipse has been challenged, put through its paces and perfected. You’re the experts, and this is what you said: “This tool will change a lot of lives... save a lot of time... and turn a lot of heads! ghd eclipse is a modern and precise tool that allows me to style all types of hair with confidence. It’s helped me transform some of the toughest hair textures into the most beautiful styles.” Kenna
ghd creative director
“You wouldn’t have thought there could be much improvement on ghd straighteners but the new eclipse looks amazing, feels great and even sounds great! It glides through the hair effortlessly and is unquestionably the most beautiful styler I’ve ever seen.” Akin Konizi
hob salons
“ghd has once again re-defined hair styling with the new eclipse. Easier to use, with its new ergonomic design and with many great new features, I found this styler gave great results on the toughest of textures, resulting in smoother more luxurious hair.” Mark Hayes
Sassoon
“The new eclipse styler from ghd is streets ahead in the technology stakes, making styling backstage and in the salon a breeze. It screams luxury and is slicker, smoother and more intelligent than ever before – especially with its revolutionary cooling down process. No kit bag will be complete without one.” Steve Rowbottom
Westrow
“The eclipse is the biggest thing to happen to heat stylers since the original ghd. Turbo-charge that by 100 and you have the ghd eclipse – an absolute must-have for professionals and consumers alike.” Ken Picton
Ken Picton Salon
“I haven’t been this excited since I got hold of my very first ghd’s more than a decade ago! This styler is AMAZING and the results are extraordinary. The cool outer-body makes it really easy to style and curl with, and it looks and sounds beautiful, too – a really professional addition to my kit bag and definitely a wow moment in hairdressing.” ZoË Irwin
ghd creative director
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Breakthrough tri-zone™ technology, extraordinary results and a brand new ultra-professional look and feel. COMING SOON… Learn how you can experience ghd eclipse for yourself by contacting your local ghd account manager or phone +44 (0)1924 423400
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stylemaker rulebreaker gamechanger
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Creative Head Ireland 32
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Wholesale
Supply & demand
Clockwise from bottom left: Hennessy Hair & Beauty, ESS Dublin, ESS Limerick and Hennessy Hair & Beauty
Accessibility, technology and exclusivity – the three key words propelling salon wholesale business today. With the option to purchase at any time of day or night, delivery in a matter of hours and products sourced from across the globe, your local salon supply store is not what it used to be… In an increasingly globalised economy, consumers are steadily turning away from homogenous multi-nationals and returning to doing business locally, where homegrown and family-run businesses contribute to the surrounding economy, provide employment and are often more customer-oriented and in tune with the needs of local salon owners. But don’t feel bad for the big guys, salons still need them to create the best products. However at your local salon wholesalers you will find the right prices and the right connections – they are becoming champions of the professional hair world. The old-fashioned business model known as your ‘salon cash and carry’ has gone and a new breed of wholesaler is ready to help drive your business to new heights. One such firm is Essential Salon Supplies (ESS). Founded by Alan Gleeson in 1989, the company has been the first to distribute many of your clients’ favourite products in Ireland, such as Moroccanoil, Tangle Teezer and Keune, thanks to its extensive global network of product scouts and agents. It was even the first to bring Matrix to Ireland, acquiring distribution rights before the brand was purchased by L’Oréal Professional Products Division (LPPD). Today, it still distributes Matrix for LPPD, and next month will begin to distribute another LPPD brand, Essie Nails. ESS was also the first to bring a keratin smoothing brand to Ireland in 2009, providing a much needed new revenue stream for salons. ESS founder Alan spent four years as a hairdresser
and even worked in the US, but claims that his column was “never hectic”. He says: “I was always more interested in the salon business and how to make it a success.” Cue the launch of ESS, which today has a purpose-built 20,000sq ft space in Limerick that houses an academy, expansive retail and interior showroom, as well as a second location in Dublin. Operations manager Paul Moloney explains that alongside sourcing exclusive products, customer service is one of the biggest areas where wholesalers have improved. He explains: “Interaction with clients is a large part of daily business and the past few years have shown that you need to be on the ground to help and manage client expectations. We also offer a business service to our clients; we support salons with marketing and promotional goods, education on our products and provide business seminars with industry experts. We understand the market – we need to in order to be leaders.” The use of technology is another key improvement at your local wholesaler, with the ability to shop online allowing you to order stock at any time of the day. The boom in online retail is providing salons with convenience previously only dreamt of. John Donnellan, of Irish-owned Flair Hair & Beauty, is wise to this. He has seen first-hand how technological development is propelling business. As well as providing next day delivery from its five stores, Flair Hair & Beauty was the first Irish wholesaler to develop an app. “Our salon and spa customers already see it as an indispensable
Creative Head Ireland 33
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Clockwise from top: Salon Ambience furniture available at ESS, Hennessy Hair & Beauty, Gainfort Hair & Beauty Supplies and the Flair Hair & Beauty app
Wholesale
resource. We have 13,000 products on our system, with more than 4,500 online, and a lot of salons can now opt for next day delivery, which in most cases is free,” he says. “If we receive an order before 12pm, customers will receive their order within 24 hours, nationwide. Ordering online means there are no monthly bills, invoices and no having to go to a third party.” Andy Pearl at Salon Select also appreciates that in order to compete in the market, an online presence is a must. “We’ve been in business 16 years and have seven stores. In the last couple of years the move to online shopping has been really noticeable. We’re launching a new website this month and an app is the next step; e-commerce is the way to move forward,” he says. A further area where wholesalers are now excelling is beauty. The demand for beauty services in hair salons has grown rapidly, and the majority of wholesalers have upped their game to be a bridge for salons into the beauty world. Pamela Crossan of Crossan Hair Cosmetics, says that salons are aiming to be a one-stop-shop for all hair and beauty products. “The demand came from the salons, as it’s a great way to attract new business. When in for a colour service, a client may like to get an lash tint or manicure, or when having a blow-dry, they might wish to get their make-up done, too. We recognise that and have adapted to support salons by offering professional products in both fields, no matter how large or small their commitment to beauty is.” Des Maguire of Maguire Hair Supplies agrees, saying that wholesalers have listened to salon owners and are adapting. “You can combine hair and beauty wholesale services and products under one roof with ease – most salons now have hair and beauty or nails together.” Indeed, at Flair Hair & Beauty’s Finglas, Dublin store, nail technician training, threading, spray-tanning and make-up application courses are all now available and are recognised by Associated Irish Therapists insurers. Ultimately, it has never been easier to work with your local wholesaler as they continue to up their game in the local hairdressing community, providing an immense range of products and services to salons.
Going local Your local salon wholesaler now boasts more benefits than ever… g Many wholesalers are Irish-owned, family-run and provide local employment. h They do all the hard work for you, bringing top international brands to Ireland, sourcing products from international trade shows as far away as Japan. w Many provide accredited part-time courses for students of all levels. h With an abundant beauty offering, wholesalers can help you add salon-friendly beauty services to your menu. g Most wholesalers can boast as many as 15,000 different products all under one roof, from scissors and backwash basins to the latest haircare brands. w When money is tight, many firms allow customers to buy in smaller amounts with no price penalties.
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top brands low prices FREE DELIVERY on orders over m50* locall 1890 564040 email sales@flair.ie www.flair.ie Tralee 066 7117070 Galway 091 771535 Naas 045 898501 Finglas 01 8641086 Kilmainham 01 6713239 *T&C’s Apply
An education Clockwise from bottom: celebrity stylist Lee Stafford at ESS Academy in Dublin, a course at the academy, and a lecture room at the ESS Academy in Limerick
Learning more means earning more, and your wholesaler is here to help
A trip to your local wholesaler can be an education. Salon supply stores are fast gaining the credibility they need to lure some of the biggest names in hairdressing to their premises, with the growth of large, purpose-built academies. Jamie Stevens is one, and when the Matrix ambassador is not plying his trade on Gok’s Fashion Fix, How to Look Good Naked and the X Factor, he can be found teaching at the ESS academies in Dublin and Limerick. “Essential Salon Supplies delivers its courses in great locations and is always wellorganised. It’s an amazing partner for Matrix and I to promote education around Ireland,” says Jamie, who can be seen twice this year for ESS, as can top colourist Terry Longden, retail expert Christian Hefti and business coach Julie Eldrett. Academies are vital to your business success – they are integral for keeping abreast of the latest trends, colouring techniques or to be inspired by some of the top names in the business. Gainfort Hair & Beauty Supplies has been providing education for more than 20 years and, in 2007, opened a purpose-built academy in Wexford. Last year it won Training Provider of the Year at the Zurich Business Awards, which, says proprietor Fiona Gainfort, has helped build “a reputation that we are proud to say offers us the opportunity to attract many high profile names in education, such as Gary Baker, Dylan Bradshaw, David Cashman and Gary Sunderland”. With innovations in hairdressing come new skills to be learnt, and your local wholesaler can provide up-tothe-minute training. One thing is for sure, wholesalers are really upping their game.
Creative Head Ireland 36
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Education snapshot A quick teaser of the courses to look forward to in 2013 Spellbound – Patrick Cameron Where Hennessy Hair & Beauty, Pembroke Street, Cork When 11 February Price E60 This one-day course is perfect for stylists who want to keep up-to-date with the demand for Marcel waves and up-dos. Focusing on classic techniques, Patrick will cover styles from the ’30s to the ’60s and give eight step-by-step demonstrations that will include reverse pin-curling, finger waves, sculpted hair and backcombing. Cutting With Chris Munt Where Gainfort Hair & Beauty Supplies When 8 April (Wexford), 17 June (Waterford) Price E150 During this one-day session for hairdressers who are at NVQ Level 2 and upwards, Chris, who has worked with the likes of Vogue and Keira Knightley, will show two precision cutting techniques and give information on complementary colouring. Students will also be able to try out the techniques on the day. It’s not what you do, it’s the way you do it – Julie Eldrett Where Essential Salon Supplies, Limerick When 15 April Price E140 Julie’s one-day seminar will teach you everything you need to know about customer care, drawing on expertise gained working with international clients such Matrix, Toni&Guy, Charles Worthington and L’Oréal Professionnel.
Men’s Barbering with Simon Shaw Where Flair Hair & Beauty, Dublin When April Price E125 Male grooming continues to be the fastest growing segment of our industry, so it makes sense to try and capture the market. Artistic director of Wahl, Simon Shaw, is giving an advanced one-day barbering course that will help you get men back in your salon, and spending on products, too. Hair with Joanne O’Neill Where Capital Hair & Beauty, Dublin When 17 June and 16 September Price E110 Learn how to create the right foundation to establish a reputable styling arm of your business for weddings and formal events. During this one-day course, Joanne will cover catwalk, red carpet and avant-garde looks.
Creative Head Ireland 37
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Wholesale
Shopping spree The purest
Alongside top international brands, wholesalers are attracting niche lines and burgeoning cult brands to enable you to offer exclusive products and services to your clients. Here are some of the latest star buys…
Funnel Vision
Smooth operator
With ammonia-free colour the talk of the town, Keune feels it can do even better. Enter So Pure Color, an ammonia and paraben-free coconut-based hair colour, enriched with certified organic plant extracts of argan oil, jasmine and sandalwood. The result is strong, healthy and shiny hair with up to 100 per cent coverage. Tempted? You should be. Available at Essential Salon Supplies Price E12.95 Call 061 212 028 Visit www.essentialsalon.ie
Using thermal funnelling technology, Colour Placement System is the new cost-effective and time-efficient colour tool that abolishes the need for mesh or foils. Heat is evenly distributed throughout the ends of the hair and at the scalp, resulting in a uniform finish in record time. Available at Crossan Hair & Beauty Price E135 (kit only) Call 071 916 7773 Visit www.colourplacement.com
hot pot
clean & neat Nailing it
Pop a roller in Diva’s revolutionary Hot Pod and eight seconds later out pops a heated one! From big bouncy curls and retro waves to mega volume at the root, simply select your temperature inside the Hot Pod, insert the rollers and get set to create super styles in a matter of seconds. Available at Gainfort Hair & Beauty Supplies Price E59.99 Call 053 912 3681 Visit www.gainfort.com
After 60 years in business, Barbicide knows a thing or two about killing germs. Indeed, it might not be one of the most glamorous sides to the hair industry, but it is an essential for your combs and scissors, destroying germs in 30 seconds. Available at AJ Salon Supplies Price E21 (for a 1.89 litre bottle) Call 059 9133 444 Visit www.ajsalonsupplies.com
Since argan oil treatments burst onto the market, a breed of new brands have cashed in on the beauty boom by supplementing argan oil with silicone. Marrakesh Oil hair elixir is not one of them. Instead, this luxurious oil blends natural argan oil with hemp oil, renowned for moisturising properties. Available at Niall O’Reilly Hair & Beauty Supplies Price E9.99 Call 051 304766 Visit www.nialloreilly.ie
With a selection of more than 100 colours and the recently released GelColor range, OPI has once again proved it’s on top of the game, and this season you can look forward to its S/S13 Euro Centrale Collection of 12 shades. Our top pick is You’re Such A BudaPest – a pastel lilac for summer. Available at Hennessy Hair & Beauty Price E5.75 Call 021 434 3436 Visit www.hennessyhb.ie
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Wholesale
Chocolate Fringe Dunshaughlin, Meath It goes without saying that interiors play the greatest role in making an impression with your client. As a salon owner, finding a supplier who can fit out your salon with the latest furniture is a daunting task, and for many, an interior designer or furniture house is the first port of call. Today, local wholesalers are taking away the need to travel to a string of interior showrooms by bringing carefully sourced products directly to their new state-ofthe-art premises. Not only can you see all the new season launches and catalogues of products from an array of furniture stockists, many wholesalers now have an inhouse interior design team that will create 3D mock-ups of how your salon could look, advise on lighting, colour and the psychology behind retail positioning. Fiona Gainfort, of Gainfort Hair & Beauty Supplies, believes that the personal touch a local wholesaler can offer a salon owner is paramount. “Good wholesalers offer the complete service and will have a range of interiors to offer their clients. The salon owner also has the comfort of knowing this is someone they do business with regularly, someone who will be there to look after them and their products in the years to come.” Getting the right kind of products will also guarantee a wholesalers’ popularity in the market, and Gainfort Hair & Beauty Supplies has secured an exclusive contract with Olymp, a top furniture line from Germany. Although it is initially more expensive, Fiona says that going for top quality products in your salon over cheaper ones will save you money in the end, as the quality pieces will have a lifespan of as much as 20 years. Your local salon wholesaler will have a vast selection of products on show at their premises, but may not have every product on site. However, they will have brochures, 3D visuals and interior swatches for you to peruse. If you’re really keen to take a closer look at what you see in a brochure, then most wholesalers will fly you to a furniture supplier’s international headquarters, free of charge. For example, Essential Salon Supplies (ESS) took a group of salon owners to the Salon Ambience showroom in Italy to preview a new, luxury shiatsu massage backwash, which also delivers a face and neck spray tan in just 10 seconds. Another example of a real game-changer from your trusty local wholesaler.
When it came to designing a new salon, the team at Chocolate Fringe went with someone they had a long-standing relationship with – Gainfort Hair & Beauty Supplies. “When you’re starting a new business it’s great to work with a wholesaler who can advise you on all the little things that you just don’t think about,” says owner Lyndsey McCabe. “Gainfort gave us so much advice and really acted as a project manager for us. We’d go to the company with all our ideas and it would help source some of the more unusual pieces. It’s really about service. As hairdressers we are constantly giving great service to our clients, so we want to get the same back.”
Dylan Bradshaw Dublin
When Dylan Bradshaw opened its Academy in 2012, business director Charlotte Bradshaw said having a relationship with ESS convinced her and Dylan to work with them on this project. “When we were designing the academy we knew we had a big task ahead of us because it was a blank canvas. We’ve used ESS to buy products and tools in the past and we knew we could go to owner Alan Gleeson with anything,” says Charlotte. “Alan will find you whatever you need and he’s really professional and provides an amazing service – anything is possible. He listened to our ideas and came back with options and even if he didn’t stock what we wanted, he went out of his way to get it.”
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Summer of love
Daks
From 6 September to 3 October 2012, we embarked on a four-week S/S13 showdown. Venturing backstage, we spotted a number of you – Darren Lacken, Danielle O’Neill and Stephen Kelly – at London Fashion Week. In total, more than 200 shows were digested, 15,000 images sifted through and five mega hair trends distilled. Prepare to rewrite the rulebook for S/S13 as the hair looks and techniques are as fresh as they get...
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Louise Gray
Marc Jacobs
Rue du Mail
Ekaterina Kukhareva
Moschino
Marc Jacobs
Trends S/S13
get the look
Behnaz Sarafpour
Moschino
Dolce & Gabbana
Louis Vuitton
the mod squad TAKE A STEP BACK IN TIME but keep an eye on the future – that’s how to master S/S13’s ’60s-inspired trend. It started in New York, where Redken creative consultant Guido Palau sent out models at Marc Jacobs with severe side partings and mussed-up matte hair swept into a low-slung pony inspired by Edie Sedgwick – the undone finish thanks to lashings of Redken refresh 01. “When it comes to the season’s ’60s-inspired shapes, the difference is in the details. It’s the ’60s like you’ve never seen them before,” said Guido. Elements of ’60s-inspired hair continued at Behnaz Sarafpour, where Aveda global creative director Antoinette Beenders styled a roughed-up, voluminous ponytail with an organic matte texture, backcombing the hair and using Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion at the roots for expansion. At Moschino it was texture that brought a modern finesse to beehives, which mimicked the height and volume of the ’60s but were soft and touchable in a contemporary way. “The hair moves, that’s the difference between now and then,” said creator Sam McKnight. At Ekaterina Kukhareva, the designer looked to Brigitte Bardot and her French insouciance, with hair by Emma Hodgkins and the Toni&Guy Session Team. With most models sporting headscarves, Emma created volume on top, but enhanced the silhouette by pulling some hair from the temple at either side of the head into a halo section secured under the upper layer. If you weren’t involved in creating one of these ’60s looks this season, then rest assured, you will be soon. “Almost every editorial I have done since the S/S13 shows has ’60s influences in the hair,” said stylist Anthony Turner. “It’s important not to be so literal with the trend. I like the idea of something quick, sweeping the parting over and the hair up in a bobby pin or lifting the crown.” Indeed, it’s the unconsidered, quick-fix responses, such as those seen at Rue du Mail by Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals, that make the ’60s look so cool. Don’t think too much or try too hard.
Hair Guido Palau, Redken creative consultant. The look Voluminous ’60s-inspired beehives with Stephen Jones headbands. Creating a silhouette that is similar to a Sassoongraduated bob. How Apply Redken wool shake 08 texturiser to damp hair and then blow-dry using fingers. Create a side parting. Use quick tease 15 backcombing lift spray to create a heavy fringe area. Sweep the fringe section to one side of the head, over part of the ear and just over the eyebrow. Put the headband on and push up to create a bouffant shape. Gather the hair into a low ponytail, then push the ponytail up and tuck it under a headband. Use the end of a tail comb to lift the hair up and accentuate the bouffant shape. Finally, finish with fashion works 12.
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Palmer Harding
Tsumori Chisato
Haus Alkire
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Yee
Trends S/S13
Nicole Farhi
Chris Benz
Fyodor Golan
Iceberg
get the look
Eastern Purity The world is turning eastwards for financial salvation, for advances in technology and inspiration. As a result, strong Japanese trends were prevalent across the runways, from kimono silhouettes to naïf Japanese floral prints. For hair, it was all about intelligent styling and balancing inyodo, the way of yin and yang. One illustration is the traditional sumo wrestler finish seen at Haider Ackermann, given a modern twist by Wella Professionals global creative director for style, Eugene Souleiman. “What I loved were all the inherent contradictions,” he said. “It was beautiful from the front and back, glamorous as well as being handsome, like some kind of gentlewoman.” Similar styling followed at Iceberg, where Sam McKnight rolled a pony tied at the nape of the neck back into itself. Meanwhile, at Ann Yee, TIGI global creative director Nick Irwin created a wet-look, graphic knot, smoothed with TIGI Session Series True Wax. “There’s admiration among stylists for Japanese hairdressing,” said Nick. “It’s the intricacy – detailed and technical looks that are still minimal.” At Fyodor Golan, ancient tribes and early civilisation provided inspiration for a slick “double-ponytail-hybrid” by ghd creative director Kenna. “The power ponies suggested toughness and a penchant for perfection,” he mused. Further points of interest came at Ann Demeulemeester, where long hairpieces had Manga appeal. Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals created three partings forming a triangular shape on the crown and a wet shiny panel at the back of the head for added drama, while being loose and free at the front.
Mary Katrantzou
Hair Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals. The look Graphic and conceptual, a Westernised version of an Eastern look. How Spritz Wella Professionals Create Character into roots and blow-dry, pulling the hair off the face. Section hair from ear to ear across the centre of crown and clip front hair out of the way. Tie back section into a ponytail and backcomb small sections of the ponytail to create volume. Then roll into a bun and pin in place. Section the remaining hair into three: two side panels and one in the centre. Take one side section and make it sleek and tight. Add Shimmer Delight for sheen, then spray with Dynamic Fix close to roots and brush hair back at the same time. Repeat on other side. Tie both into place over the bun. Take the top section and working from crown towards the front of the head, use the same technique.
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Balmain
Jeremy Scott
Maria Grachvogel
Mathieu Mirano
Dans La Vie
Kimberly Ovitz
Jean-Pierre Braganza
DAS Collection
David Koma
Todd Lynn
Todd Lynn
get the look
Braided Society
French, reverse, fishtail, internal, external – the plait is a perennial. This season there was a plethora of techniques and inspirations, and the results saw some pretty fly outcomes. Backstage at Balmain, Sam McKnight was calling out ’80s singing sensation Sade’s name. As well as her hoop earrings, the singer’s hallmark pulled-back mane was noteworthy. Models wore plaits with a DIY feel, fastened off with black elastic at top and bottom. “We wanted to make a feature out of the bands,” said Sam. At David Koma, ghd’s creative director Kenna aced a style rich in dual textures for the designer’s tennis-inspired collection. “I looked at pictures from the American Open in the ’70s. The female players would pull their hair into a pony and braid the ends,” said Kenna, who added a horizontal sweatband of sleekness around the head using ghd Style Final Fix Hairspray. This multi-textured look was seen again at Kimberly Ovitz, where Aveda global creative director Antoinette Beenders created interlacing fishtail braids with contrasting shine. At Maria Grachvogel, Federico Ghezzi for L’Oréal Professionnel used tecni art a.head glue around the hairline, where two diagonal plaits converged into one at the nape. Plaits with added length were also seen. At Jeremy Scott, Wella Professionals creative director for style Eugene Souleiman poured over African, Arabic, Egyptian and Asian braiding styles, creating a look with a touch of ghetto-fabulousness, with wefts and a bun. At Mathieu Mirano, Rolando Beauchamp for Bumble and bumble created two rope braids, one within a top section, moving to the back of the crown, where it was twined with another and descended down the back. At Todd Lynn, Cos Sakkas and the Toni&Guy Session Team imagined a wealthy woman on safari. The resulting low braid, extended by long wefts one shade lighter than the model’s own, included backcombed ends. “I wanted it to mimic a raw, animal tail,” said Cos. Raw or sleek this season, if you want to earn your session stars, then perfect every braiding technique out there!
Hair Indira Schauwecker and the Toni&Guy Session Team. The look Alienated beauty, an internal plait with an external plait over it, inspired by Swiss sci-fi artist HR Giger. How Prep hair using label.m Extra Strong Mousse, before smoothing the central surface of the hair with Wax Stick. Taking a dead-centre parting, a small section is then braided using a scalp technique from root to tip, creating a spine-like shape – apply a liberal coating of Hold & Gloss Spray after fastening. The remaining hair is then French-plaited over the top of the existing braid from the mid-lengths to ends, leaving out small sections of hair at the front for a dishevelled finish. The exterior plait is loosened with fingers. Use label.m Hairspray to finish.
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Céline Thomas Tait
DSquared²
get the look
Richard Chai
Gianfranco Ferré
Graphic Design
House of Evolution
Sacai
Acne
Diesel
Givenchy
Felder Felder
Yifang Wan
Marios Schwab
Jil Sander
Trends S/S13
Excess seems so passé these days. With conspicuous consumption and fast fashion out the window, minimalism has once again come to the fore. Unadorned it might be, but plain it is not. Minimalism delivered maximum results, with the power lying in the blow-dry, unyielding partings and the rigid positioning of hair. At super-minimalist design house Jil Sander, Redken creative consultant Guido Palau worked with these modern sensibilities by merging a super-clean centre parting into a sleek blow-dry with a helping hand from Redken satinwear 02. The hair was positioned over the ears and pulled back into a ponytail, while the elastic was released an inch or so down for a contemporary touch. At Sacai, Guido for Redken created what is becoming known as the “half-tucked look”, placing hair behind the ears with a small front section left out. A similar finish prevailed at Yifang Wan, where the monochrome utility of the collection saw this half-tucked look precisely honed. Bill Watson and the Toni&Guy Session Team pinned a top layer of hair at the nape of the neck and added label.m Protein Spray to create a super-hydrated sheen. At DSquared², designers Dean and Dan Caten perused supermodel shoots of the ’90s for inspiration, and who better to have backstage than an originator of many of those styles, Sam McKnight. “In the past there has been a lot of texture and almost dead-looking hair,” said Sam, who spun glossy, straight styles. “This season there’s a return to simpler, straighter, healthy hair.” Austere-utility continued at Thomas Tait, where locks resembled styles in a science fiction comic book, with real looking hair, only more intense – the gloss by way of Bumble and bumble Shine Spray. James Pecis, who was backstage for the brand, sectioned the hair into a side-parting, tied an elastic around the hair and neck to emphasise the head shape, and released a graphic piece of hair, placing it over one side of the face.
Hair Marco Lafrate, TIGI Italian creative director. The look Near clones, with glossy ponytails and V partings. How Spray hair with water across the top of the head and apply Catwalk by TIGI Session Series Wet Look Gel at the hairline. Section into a V-shape from the hairline to the crown, creating a triangular panel. Spray Sleek Mystique Look-Lock Hairspray close to the roots and keep it flat to the head, then collect the bottom section low at the nape, securing it with a clear elastic band. Comb the top panel back flat to the head, using more Wet Look Gel. Secure both top and bottom sections with elastic into same ponytail. Take a small section from the bottom of the ponytail, add Wet Look Gel and wrap around the elastic to conceal it. Blast with a hairdryer to set.
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Burberry Prorsum p42-49_Trends_Feature_GW7.indd 8
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Peter Pilotto
Images courtesy of: Aveda, Balmain Hair, Bumble and bumble, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, Max Factor, Pantene, Redken, Sebastian Professional, TIGI, Toni&Guy, Wella Professionals
DKNY
Versace
Preen
Missoni
Mugler
Kenzo
Haizhen Wang
J.JS Lee
Trends S/S13
get the look Topshop Unique
Sleepless in Seattle ‘Keep it real, keep it desirable’ – that was one of the key mottos of the season and it couldn’t have gotten any more real than natural, undone waves, the kind that had partied all night, been slept on and walked straight out the door the following day. “It’s ’90s grunge”, “think Courtney Love, Kurt Cobain and the Seattle grunge movement”, “it’s the morning after the night before”, were constants backstage. With roots in the past, the look for today heralded a new kind of body. At Preen, Paul Hanlon for L’Oréal Professionnel decreed: “I was looking at imagery of Kate Moss in the ’90s – really effortless and easy hair. What’s different this season is that every girl has been given individual tweaks to their style. There’s no A, B and C to the rules. It’s almost as if each model’s hair has been dressed for an editorial with such personalisation.” Natural ease followed at Burberry Prorsum, where healthy hair had a glossy, yet lived-in feel and a DIY finger parting. Neil Moodie for Bumble and bumble mussedup the look, using the brand’s Brilliantine to break up the texture. At Kenzo, it was a cool gang of girls who had a “fumble in the jungle” that inspired Anthony Turner for the show’s safari theme. Backstage for TIGI, Anthony said, “The Kenzo girl is sexy and cool. She’s travelled from downtown New York to Paris. The hair is easy, effortless and natural.” She also brought some Catwalk by TIGI Session Series Dry Shampoo with her, hence the matte texture. Even Donatella Versace, purveyor of molto glammed-up looks, toned down the aesthetic. After the hair was blow-dried, Versace backstage constant Guido Palau for Redken, twisted the hair into a bun, misted it with Redken powder refresh 01 and let it sit for a few minutes, which gave way to natural waves. Finally at Missoni, it was about disconnection, with a smooth and sleek top section contrasting with free and flowing mid lengths by Wella Professionals global creative director for style Eugene Souleiman.
Hair Anthony Turner for L’Oréal Professionnel. The look Keeping it real. A girl who is confident enough to wake up with bed hair and leave it just like that. How Drench the hair in L’Oréal Professionnel play ball beach fizz mixed with water and allow it to dry naturally. The key is a matte, dry and natural wave finish, just like the texture of beach hair. No combs or brushes are necessary – use your fingers at every stage and simply create a side parting with your hands. For extra dishevelment, pull and tease individual strands.
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I developed this look from a hairstyle I originally created for a Jacob Kimmie show. His brief was to create a hyper-feminine Terminator woman
fashion
Get the look - Split the hair down the middle and use a rope technique for the coils, twisting hair back off the face following the shape of the head and extend it up through the crown area to create a raised feature - Style both sides of hair forward using hairspray at the roots and a net to set the shape - Bring the remaining hair around the face back to the nape and add extensions for length. Secure with a ponytail
The hair colour is a light ash blonde base with fine mixed strands of beige blonde and golden blonde
The model is wearing a fur and e leather cap n Ye by Shao
I was six months pregnan t at time of this shoot, so I did a lo t of waddlin g on the day !
Storyboard Johanna Cree Brown creates beauty on a high-fashion canvas
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ha us Jo e R m th fro om MORE a fr tr ex uxe , l tra de Ex unk P
29/1/13 11:35:23
Edge of darkness Colour, texture and pure hair architecture creates structure like no other, in the latest shoot from Johanna Cree Brown Photography Grant Thomas
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Fashion Promotion
Hair Johanna Cree Brown at Trevor Sorbie Salons Colour Fanoulla at Trevor Sorbie Salons, directed by Johanna Cree Brown Make-up Alex Byrne Styling Kieran Partise at The Conceptionist
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Tough love
The Rush Session Team presents its interpretation of the season’s most dramatic trend – Gothic Punk Photography Arron Dunworth
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Fashion
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Hair The Rush Session Team – Tina Farey, Sam Burnett, Isabella Hyde and Jamie Benny Art direction Sam Burnett and Tina Farey Hair assistants Serafina Woodward and Alex Desousa Make-up Rocio Cordero Styling Lucy Ansa-Addo Nails Sophie Harris-Greenslade at The Illustrated Nail
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THE LAST WORD
Prevail and retail
If you want to capitalise on retail, then up your game before your market share goes elsewhere, says business coach Antony Whitaker
I’ve been in the hairdressing industry for more than 30 years, and during that time there has been an explosion of new brands entering the professional market and acquisitions of smaller brands by multi-nationals. That’s business, and the realisation of people’s dreams. In many cases, the original developers have taken the brand as far as they can and in order for it to grow they need not only an injection of funds, but bigger and better distribution channels, increased expertise and the advantages of access to greater research and technology. Finally, for the original brand developers (frequently hairdressers), there comes the opportunity of an exit strategy and a significant payday. So it’s a win-win. Although it varies from country to country, stylists are rarely great retailers. So, in order to capitalise on sales opportunities, it’s inevitable that some multi-national owners of professional brands will look for other channels to retail their products, and in the process blur the definition of ‘professional only’. Recently we learnt that Bumble and bumble will
now be sold through Boots, and Aveda has long had distribution through department stores along with many other professional haircare suppliers with excellent products. The companies that own these brands look to increase their distribution by making them available outside of the salon, while still trying to maintain professional credibility and the price that goes with it. Whatever their reason to do so, the important aspect is that the hairdressing industry and your business will continue to change – whether you like it or not. Just because retail has traditionally been approached in a certain way, it doesn’t mean it will continue to be approached in that fashion. Retailing will evolve and as new technologies arrive and consumers’ buying habits change, so must we take advantage of the profit potential that retailing products can generate. Antony Whitaker is a mutli award-winning hairdresser, business motivator and author of the Grow series of books. Want to have your say? Email Sarah@headmag.ie
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INFINITI_AD[Creative_Head_Ireland][RHP].pdf
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