Creative HEAD January 2014 by Alfol Publishing

£4.50 January 2014

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Don’t miss it! Matrix Destination.Fame 2014 launches in March. Win a Year of Fame, at destinationfame.co.uk

Doing it for the fame… They say it’s not where you’re going, it’s how you get there. But Matrix Destination.Fame takes you on the trip of a lifetime. the final destination? global superstardom Looking to make your mark in the hairdressing world? You’ve got the skills and talent – you just need that one chance to show the world how good you really are. Matrix Destination.Fame shines a light on young, ambitious stylists looking for more than 15 minutes of fame. The winners of Destination.Fame become the next stars in the hairdressing industry. They will set the trends for seasons to come and will lead the next generation of hottest hairdressers. This annual competition sees three winners chosen from hundreds of entries who then go on to enjoy 12 months of inspiring education and exclusive mentoring from the biggest names in the hairdressing industry, including Paul Falltrick, Gary Hooker & Michael Young and X Factor’s Jamie Stevens. Throughout their Year of Fame, the winners are supported and guided by the awardwinning Matrix Artistic Team, culminating in a two-day photoshoot that pushes the winners’ creative boundaries and takes their skills to new heights. Following months of creative entries to Destination.Fame 2013, Rick Roberts, Christina Roberts and Jonathan Turner were crowned the winners, embarking on a 12-month whirlwind schedule packed with stage and session experiences, education courses and PR and marketing opportunities. The winners and their mentors then set out to showcase the latest hairstyle trends and the versatility of the Matrix Design Pulse styling range, featuring products that can help you take your clients’ styles from day to night. Turn over to discover how they got on…

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Hard day’s night From brief to shoot, the three winners and mentors worked tirelessly to create a collection for matrix that perfectly reflects the modern man and woman, and how we live today There’s no doubt about it. We’re a busy bunch of people. We rush to work, grab lunch on the go, have dinner on the run and expect the world to keep up with us. To help our hectic lifestyles, the Matrix 2013 Destination.Fame shoot set out to create a trend-inspired collection featuring wearable day looks that easily transform into statement night styles. Using Design Pulse styling products, the winners and mentors created this eclectic mix of edgy, achievable looks to inspire modern men and women. Over the next few pages, you’ll meet each of the winners, discover how they worked with their mentors to meet the brief and see how the collection, Eclectic Edge, was born.

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WINNER JONATHAN TURNER FROM HOOKER & YOUNG IN JESMOND, NEWCASTLE, EXPLAINS HOW WORKING WITH HIS MENTOR, JAMIE STEVENS, HELPED HIM TO MEET THE BRIEF ON CREATING THE LOOKS FOR THE SHOOT…

“For the first look we wanted to create

something very catwalk-inspired, but still wearable. For the second one, we wanted to create something more gla morous, so we tonged over the crimped hair to create a mazing texture.”

ON WORKING WITH HIS MENTOR…

“Working with Ja mie was a mazing as he showed me new techniques to create inspiring looks in easy steps.” ON WHAT’S NEXT…

“My goal is to qualify as a stylist, start working on the salon floor and build a client base – my award win is a great marketing tool to attract new clients.”

“Matrix not only offers opportunities for new and emerging talent to showcase their talents through initiatives such as Destination.Fame, it also allows experienced artists and educators a chance to pass on knowledge and learn from the new talent that is coming through. This exchange helps to ensure the cycle of creativity is nurtured and keeps the industry fresh.” JAMIE STEVENS, MATRIX GLOBAL DESIGN TEAM MEMBER

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WINNER RICK ROBERTS IS A SALON OWNER AND SO WANTED TO USE HIS TIME WITH HIS MENTOR, PAUL FALLTRICK, TO SEE HOW TO TAKE HIS AWARD WIN TO THE NEXT LEVEL ON WHAT’S NEXT…

“I plan to use my Matrix Destination. Fa me win to help develop the Rick Roberts brand. My salon is currently undergoing a makeover and we have a mbitions to create our own studio space. This is also the year I plan to invest in PR.” ON WORKING WITH MATRIX…

“I’ve loved working with Matrix products and it feels like a brand that’s really making its mark, developing its own identity and is associated with the industry’s best artistic talent.” ON CREATING LOOKS FOR A SHOOT…

“The looks I created with Paul were on-trend, young and fresh. We wanted to show the brand for what it is and worked with soft textures and big volu me. It’s sexy yet elegant with our day-to-night looks flipping from curls to waves.” “Matrix is always seeking to support the superstars of the future as well as the best talent around in hairdressing today to help them imagine all they can be.” PAUL FALLTRICK, MATRIX GLOBAL DESIGN TEAM MEMBER

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Hair Matrix Destination.Fame winners and mentors. Photography Robert Charbonnet. Videography Joseph Turp. Backstage Photography Karen Hatch. Styling Julia Brenard. Make-up Claudine Blythman. Nails Ange Walker.

WINNER CHRISTINA ROBERTS FROM KAM IN LOSSIEMOUTH, SCOTLAND, STEPPED OUT OF HER COMFORT ZONE AT THE SHOOT TO DELIVER STUNNING WORK UNDER THE WATCHFUL EYES OF HER MENTORS HOOKER & YOUNG ON FAME...

“When I was starting out in hairdressing, I didn’t think it was possible to be based in a little town like Lossie and win a national competition, yet here I a m !” ON WHAT’S NEXT…

‘I aspire to be more involved in platform work and would love to build my confidence in presenting on stage. Ultimately, I would love to win a Creative HEAD Most Wanted or It List award!” ON WORKING WITH MATRIX…

“After the shoot I found my approach to using Matrix products changed in many ways, especially when it ca me to finishing a look for a client. Hooker & Young taught me that less is more, so now I step back to look at the finish rather than making lots of little changes.”

“Matrix offers great platform opportunities for new talent to shine and gives a 360-degree approach when it comes to support, from education to developing their skills on photoshoots through initiatives such as Destination.Fame. We find that guiding new talent is rewarding and enriching to our own outlook. We never stop learning and there is always a positive exchange when you give something back to the industry.” GARY HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG, MATRIX GLOBAL DESIGN TEAM MEMBERS

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NEXT STOP? FAME!

LOVE THE LOOKS IN THE ECLECTIC EDGE COLLECTION FROM MATRIX? DISCOVER HOW THEY WERE CREATED AND MEET THE MENTORS AND WINNERS ON A DAY OF FAME AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

LIKE WHAT YOU’VE SEEN? YOU COULD FOLLOW IN PREVIOUS WINNERS’ FOOTSTEPS AND EXPERIENCE YOUR OWN YEAR OF FAME BY ENTERING MATRIX DESTINATION.FAME 2014. THE COMPETITION LAUNCHES 1 MARCH AND IS OPEN TO ALL HAIRDRESSERS IN THE UK AND IRELAND. FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 020 8762 4060 OR VISIT DESTINATIONFAME.CO.UK

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT MATRIX PRODUCTS OR TO FIND YOUR LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR, CALL 0800 387608 OR VISIT MATRIXHAIRCARE.CO.UK

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Discover the latest speakers and grab your place at Salon Smart 2014

LOVE IT! Stunning photographic collections, including this exclusive shoot from Francesco Group

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Editor’s letter

hello...

JOIN US! A New Year brings a new calendar of exciting Creative HEAD events, starting with a Coterie special on 3 February, where members will hear about the epic coordination of a major runway show – from the people who made it happen! The team includes session stylist Ali Pirzadeh and make-up artist Sharon Dowsett. It’s going to be a runway riot! And with the launch of Salon Smart 2014, our must-attend business networking event, we’re revealing a stellar line-up of sharp shooters, hairdressing heroes and business experts, from page 38. The all important dates are 27 and 28 April – book it now!

AS LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN turns the capital into a perfectly groomed destination this month, we felt it was the right opportunity to consider how best to serve today’s male clientele. Men are frequenting the salon more often, and their spend on grooming is up – this is a great time to be thinking about the guys in your chairs. From the freshly ground coffee to the vacuum for those pesky cut hairs, Ruffians’ founder Andrew Cannon has thought long and hard about all those elements that make a visit to the barber something to look forward to, rather than viewing it as a chore. Through his own experiences, he knows only too well how poorly served some male customers are. Turn to page 60 and you’ll see why Ruffians was crowned Most Wanted BEST NEW SALON 2013 – and find a little inspiration from such dedication to customer service strategy, something everyone can appreciate, whether your client base is predominantly male or female.

Amanda Nottage Editor

Want to know what else we’re up to? creativeheadmag.com/events

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January

WHAT’S INSIDE 72

MEN’S ROOM

We explore the rise of the male market and the new breed of barbershops

48 FASHION

Saks celebrates its 40th birthday in style, Goldwell reveals a new trend and Vatican Hairdressing goes avant-garde

ON THE COVER Eclectic Edge by Matrix Destination.Fame

Hair Matrix Destination.Fame winners and mentors Make-up Claudine Blythman Nails Ange Walker Styling Julia Brenard Photography Robert Charbonnet

THE IT GUY

Takuya Morimoto takes us on an incredible journey

EDITOR AMANDA NOTTAGE

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JOANNA ANDERSEN

DEPUTY EDITOR BETH DAVIE

ONLINE EDITOR AMY WOOD

ADVERTISING MANAGER BEN BALDOCK

ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL

CONTRIBUTOR YASMIN PLANCHON

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE DAVID HAMMOND

ART GRAEME WHITE

SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR PUBLISHER HEATHER DAY CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT:

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Creative HEAD Magazine

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk

@creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD

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Botox for hair!

Meet the innovative new treatment on everyone’s lips - BTX Hair For years, cosmetic treatments have allowed us to turn back the clock on our skin, but never on our hair. Until now… Meet hair’s newest savior – BTX Hair from Revolution Hair Concepts. Just as Botox works to transform skin, BTX Hair works to rejuvenate your clients’ tresses and restore that youthful feeling. “Botox for hair? How?” we hear you cry! Let us explain all. Harnessing a powerful blend of caviar oil, collagen and vitamins B5 and E, the innovative in-salon service uses heat infusion to nourish the cuticle, repair split ends and deliver luminous shine for up to four weeks. The results? Beautifully conditioned, envy-inducing locks! And without any nasty needles…

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The edit

WINN

ERS!

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

WARNING OVER CREDIT RATING IGNORANCE SALON OWNERS HAVE BEEN urged to check out their business’s credit scores after research into credit score awareness ranked hair salons bottom out of 13 small business sectors. The study, from price comparison website Makeitcheaper.com, found that just 15 per cent of salons knew their credit score, with 19 per cent of businesses aware their credit rating could affect important business costs such as their energy price. Jonathan Elliott, chief executive and founder of Makeitcheaper, said: “It is tough to pin down why this is an issue among salons more than other businesses, but it’s clear that many aren’t staying on top of their books.” He cited the example of a Greater Manchester salon, which suffered a credit downgrade after its accountant allegedly filed returns late. “Despite having had a healthy credit score, the accountant’s alleged mistake meant their rating was downgraded and, as a result, their energy supplier refused to renew their contract,” he warned. The Makeitcheaper founder urged salon owners to take a proactive approach to their credit ratings by staying in touch with credit rating agencies, paying bills on time, filing accounts promptly and keeping up with loan repayments. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, backed the advice. She said: “Salon owners have an awful lot of responsibilities to juggle, but being aware of and proactive about your credit rating is important.” Paul Simbler, director at HOB Salons, added: “If your credit rating is not good, you will either get refused for a bank loan or get accepted with a high interest rate, or for half the amount you wanted.”

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Almost famous THE FAME TEAM of 2014 has been revealed at a revamped Fellowship Christmas Luncheon at The Dorchester in London. Daffyd Rhys Thomas from Ken Picton Salon, Ellenora Dean from Michelle Griffin, Simon Tuckwell from Zullo & Holland and Leigh-Anne Regan from Kyle Beasley Hairdressing form the new team, while Tracey Devine from Angels was crowned Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year. Other winners revealed by Fellowship president Errol Douglas MBE and chancellor Karine Jackson included John Frieda, who picked up a Lifetime Achievement Award, X Factor’s Jamie Stevens scooped Media Personality for the second year, and Zullo & Holland’s Angelo Vallillo, who won the Terry Calvert Signature Stylist of the Year award. Seanhanna celebrated winning the Salon Group of the Year, while Metropolis took home the Individual Salon Award.

JAMIE STEVENS TO HEADLINE SALON SMART JAMIE STEVENS has been announced as the headliner for Salon Smart 2014 – Creative HEAD’s annual business networking event. The X Factor stylist and salon owner joins a stellar line-up of influential hairdressers and business experts, including HOB Salons’ Sean Dawson, the Daniel Galvin team and Caroline Sanderson, Most Wanted BUSINESS THINKER 2013. The event will be held at the Park Plaza Riverbank hotel in London on 27 and 28 April, and promises to deliver an action-packed programme, from hands-on workshops and Q&A sessions to a gala dinner and hair presentation. Turn to page 38 for more information.

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JU ST TH E TI CK ET

DKN HAIR WINS EMPLOYER AWARD

The cheek of it

of the TV

THE SOHO HOUSE GROUP always likes to do things differently, and this time it’s tapping into the time-strapped beauty trend with Cheeky, the kid sister to its Cowshed brand. Clients at The Cheeky Parlour in Shoreditch grab a numbered ticket, deli-counter style, and then wait for their turn for a blow-dry or manicure. However, while they wait they can enjoy a cocktail and some gourmet grub, and then hit the Cheeky Selfie Studio post-service to snap or film their new look!

SUMMER LANGTON WINS MVC COMPETITION APPRENTICE SUMMER LANGTON has scooped top spot in a styling battle organised by the Michael Van Clarke Academy. Five apprentices took part in the competition, but it was the teenager’s elegant ’30sinspired look that impressed the judges the most. Michael Van Clarke’s operations director, Russell McGrath, said: “I was left speechless by their level of skill and vision.”

ENA LOOKS TO RAISE LOYALTY ENA HAS introduced a new retail incentive to encourage clients and improve brand loyalty. The Covent Garden salon has developed a product-swapping initiative that means clients can bring their unused hair and beauty products into the salon to exchange for travel-sized Davines shampoos and conditioners. Old products are then taken to a local homeless shelter.

Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards honours Rainbow Room founders RAINBOW ROOM International’s Alan and Linda Stewart (pictured) have picked up the Lifetime Achievement Award at the third official Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. Taking place at the Crowne Plaza in Glasgow and hosted by Clyde 1 FM presenter Knoxy, the 21 Scottish Hair & Beauty awards were based on public nominations. Since establishing their business in 1979, Alan and Linda have grown Rainbow Room International to become Scotland’s largest premier hair group.

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Daniel K Neaves (pictured above left) has been named among the UK top 100 employers in the National Apprenticeship Awards 2013. Daniel, who owns DKN Hair in Devon, was named one of the top 100, alongside corporate heavyweights such as BT, Starbucks and ITV.

AVEDA ENJOYS GOOD LIFE The Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa in Covent Garden has created a verdant garden on the top of its building. The rooftop garden aims to provide a safe haven for bees in a bid to help combat the insects’ decline and inspire guests and staff alike.

❤ WE L O V E

Label.m’s Thickening collection features all sorts of great ingredients, but our favourite bit is the TimeRelease technology. This clever bit of science shuttles ingredients to the cortex layer of hair and the finer medulla layers in thinner hair types to thicken and volumise hair, building up over long-term use. Oompf!

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£80,000

The amount a person will spend over their lifetime on ‘keeping up appearances’, according to Wahanda. The health and beauty site also revealed that 20 per cent of people in the UK have 2.5 beauty treatments every four weeks, spending about £140 a month. Calculated based on lifetime spanning 18 - 65 years

My month ahead What does January have in store for…

Jamilla Paul Jamilla Paul Hair & Beauty

Read it! The power of men and grooming from page 48

Charles Worthington launches men’s grooming services The Charles Worthington City salon has launched a new men’s service menu and Male Members’ Club. The move comes in response to research carried out by Charles Worthington Salons, which revealed that more than 80 per cent of men that work in the City enjoy regular grooming treatments and almost half of men use a barber service. Owner Charles Worthington said: “Men today are more aware of their appearance than ever and want to keep their look stylish, while still sharp and well-groomed. Our new City barber services offers quick and effective grooming solutions for the busy modern man.”

This month I start a three-month tour for Wella presenting to new clients, where I’ll be on stage with my old pal, Bruno Marc Giamattei from Marc Antoni. I’ve got a photoshoot booked for my new offshoot brand, The Shave Bar, which I’ll be launching officially before the end of the month, and I’m putting the final touches to the new Jamilla Paul Academy.

Andrew Barton Andrew Barton Salons

My team and I are busy prepping for the Redken Symposium. I’ve been asked to headline the grand opening show, which is a huge buzz! Tracey Gallagher, my creative director, and I have been working on hair concepts since September. It’s important to stay true to your brand, it’s going to be awesome!

Ben Cooke Lockonego Phillipart signs up to American Dream Richard Phillipart, former It List winner and backstage regular at London and Paris Fashion Weeks, is the new ambassador for extensions brand American Dream. Owner of The Boutique Salon & Spa in Cheshire, Richard has worked fitting extensions at shows such as Chloé and Vivienne Westwood, and boasts a loyal celebrity client base. He said: “I’m excited to join the team. This brand is at the forefront of fashion and used by stylists all over the world.”

Charlie Miller styles backstage at the MTV Europe Music Awards The Charlie Miller team styled backstage at the MTV Europe Music Awards in Amsterdam. Led by Jason Miller, the six-strong team of stylists from across the Charlie Miller salons created looks for Snoop Lion, Rudimental, Icona Pop, as well as Katy Perry’s dancers. Jason said: “Amsterdam was an incredible night and I enjoyed creating some dramatic hair effects.”

We have some very exciting fashion and beauty editorial shoots lined up for the month, which will be our preparation for the summer season. I’ve also got some great celebrity clients already booked in, including the beautiful Myleene Klass, so I am really looking forward to what the rest of this year has to offer.

MORE INSIDE Find out what Richard is up to in his new column, Richard’s World, exclusively in Creative HEAD! Turn to page 15 11

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Education programmes

Income forecast

Profit, loss and cashflow forecast Effective pricing

TREASURE HUNT THE WATERS MIGHT BE CHOPPY, SO PREPARE YOURSELF AND YOU’RE SURE TO BE REWARDED KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5

HERE’S A LITTLE FUN for you this New Year. Take a look at the map above: each island you discover and chart takes you one step closer to the treasure, which is of course profit. Get lost along the way and you will never discover your salon’s full potential…

offers, local events and any other factors that may affect your income. Look at your current average bills and client numbers and create your predictions by using intelligent guesswork. You can always revise your predictions regularly during the voyage that is your financial year.

PROFIT, LOSS AND CASHFLOW FORECASTS With the wind in your sails you reach your next island, where you discover the main differences between a cashflow and a profit and loss forecast. A cashflow forecast is inclusive of VAT and all outgoings are listed as and when you pay for them. A profit and loss forecast is net of VAT and all outgoings are listed as and when used. To clarify what we mean by “when paid for” and “when used”, certain outgoings may be paid for in annual or quarterly payments. Rent is often paid quarterly and insurance is often paid annually. In a cashflow forecast rent would be listed on the date that you actually pay it but in a profit and loss forecast it would be apportioned equally to each period of the year. The same goes for insurance or accountancy fees. Complete both these forecasts before you hoist anchor again.

EDUCATION PROGRAMMES INCOME FORECAST Before you set sail, you need to try and predict what lies ahead in terms of income for your salon. To do this you need to consider all of the things that may affect your potential income. Think of team size and changes, holidays and absence, time of year, promotions or price changes, special

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You can't complete your voyage alone. Wise captains continue to invest in their crew. This enables their ship to stay ahead of their competition while continuing to motivate them, making them feel valued. Individuals need to see there is a plan for growth, and education is key to that. If they can’t see a plan for their future then they will look elsewhere.

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LIFE

Monitor and review

LESSONS

Marketing for growth

Treasure = salon profit

ANTHONY BARNES-SMITH

CO-OWNER, Q HAIR AND BEAUTY, CHICHESTER Being the best at something really doesn’t matter. Natural-born artists

EFFECTIVE PRICING You’re halfway through your voyage but troubled waters may still be ahead. These can rock your boat and lead to crew abandoning ship. A carefully planned price structure is vitally important for two reasons – to embrace all areas of your chosen market and to grow your team. There should be logic to a price list, preferably based upon a percentage difference between each level and not amounts of money. This should enable new team members to achieve some form of promotion early while continuing to stretch your senior team. There should also be clearly defined, results-focused promotion criteria to enable staff to have control over their destiny. Promotion should always be based upon fact and never emotion.

MARKETING FOR GROWTH Now that you are on course to find the treasure, how will the natives know that your ship is the finest on the ocean? Often, salons spend money on advertising or marketing without first having a clear idea of what they want to achieve. They may want

more clients, but what type of client? What demographic does the salon currently appeal to or want to appeal to? Heavy discounting can lead to attracting a budget-conscious client, which is perfect for a budget salon, but not for a high end one. Each market also requires a different strategy. What is your objective and what is your strategy?

MONITOR AND REVIEW With your voyage planned, your crew the finest on the ocean and the natives aware of your talents, take care to remain firmly on course. Never do anything without monitoring its effectiveness. Most salons have clever point-of-sale systems but rarely use them to their full potential. Analysis is a key use of leadership time. Too many salon owners work on emotion and, as with promotion, leaders should act on fact. How many? How much? How profitable? All of these questions have numerical answers and never expressions such as “lots” or “worked really well”; these are vague and emotional. Plan your voyage, take care of your crew, stay on course and the treasure could be yours! MAIN STAGE SPEAKER

Want to ask a question? Tweet us @creativeheadmag or visit 365hair.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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28 APRIL 2014

can have good and bad days. If you practise you will become more consistent.

Where you come from isn’t necessarily where you will end up. I started in a terraced house in the North East (of which I am very proud). I now own the Georgian town house in which Q Hair and Beauty is housed. Being prepared to travel, relocate and move out of your own environment or comfort zone can make all the difference.

Take a risk when you can. I can say this with hindsight but it can be fun when everything is on the line; it makes you work harder.

Education is my big passion. Go to every lesson and seminar you get the chance to. My old boss once said the worst that can happen is that you’re better than you thought you were.

2/12/13 11:36:44

Salons that underpay workers ‘risk losing 80% of clients’ Eight out of 10 people say they would not visit a salon if they discovered it was paying its workers less than the national minimum wage (NMW), a government survey has revealed. The research, by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS) follows a damning report last autumn suggesting hairdressing was by far the worst industry for failing to pay apprentices the NMW, with nearly seven out of 10 being paid less than the legal minimum in 2012. But it also comes against a backdrop of intense debate about what the future rate of the NMW should be as the economy starts to show signs of recovery, increased ‘naming and shaming’ of NMW offenders and NHF members in a poll over the summer strongly urging restraint and even a freeze in the wage. The latest BIS poll has argued 90 per cent of people feel employers who fail to pay the wage are “a disgrace”.

NHF TO OFFER NEW BUSINESS SERVICES TO SALONS The NHF is launching an array of new benefits and offers during 2014, including a bespoke NHF pension scheme and a programme of businessbased workshops and seminars, in a major acceleration of member activity under new president Paul Curry and chief executive Hilary Hall. A nationwide programme of seminars and workshops is running from this month, focusing on three topics: Delivering a Great Client Experience, How to Make Your Salon More Profitable, and Managing Yourself and Your Team. The events, which will be priced at an affordable level, are open to non-members and members alike and are being delivered by salon owners and business trainers Richard Wallace and Chris Amos. The new NHF pension is still at a relatively early stage, but the intention is for it to launch during 2014 and become a key tool to help salon owners cope with the arrival of auto-enrolment.

Jamie Stevens, Emma Phillips, her model and Paul Curry

Gary Pearce

FUTURE STARS CELEBRATED AT BRITAIN’S BEST

BRITAIN’S BRIGHTEST young hairdressers and barbers joined veteran competitors to celebrate all that is great about British hairdressing at November’s National Hairdressers’ Federation Britain’s Best competition. The contest, now in its second year, was sponsored by L’Oréal Professionnel and took place at the Birmingham Hilton Metropole Hotel. More than 250 people flocked to watch the intense action across 11 categories, as well as meet X Factor stylist Jamie Stevens. This was on top of the thousands of votes received from the innovative ‘text vote’ popularity poll before the event and the many who entered the mobile-phone based ‘Click ‘n’ Send Head of the Year Photographic Competition’. Key winners were Emma Phillips, of Robert John salon in Portishead, Bristol, who was named Britain’s Best Senior Ladies Hairdresser; and Gary Pearce, of Gary Pearce Hair Design in Huddersfield, who won the men’s equivalent. The text vote salon owner of the year was Sam Lorimer, of Urban Hair in Cumnock, East Ayrshire. Paul Curry, president of the NHF, said the enthusiasm and passion of so many young stylists showed the continuing strength and depth of talent within the UK.

Economic recovery filtering through to high street HAIRDRESSING IS FINALLY seeing signs of trade picking up, as the improving economic indicators evident since last summer have begun to filter through to the high street. According to exclusive research for the NHF by Phorest Salon Software, many salons gained hundreds of new clients across the country last year, with salons in London doing the best.

The figures from a total of 266 London salons and 240 outside the capital, showed London hairdressers gained on average 818 new clients each in the year to October last year compared with 640 outside of the capital. The figures also showed London salons earned 6 per cent of revenue from retail sales compared with 5 per cent outside of the capital.

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 0845 345 6500, 01234 831695 or visit nhf.info 14

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Richard’s world From fashion week inspiration to soap star styling, Boutique salon owner Richard Phillipart shares a glimpse of his busy life

I loved the look at Fendi A/W13 by Sam McKnight – here’s my version. I created the faux hawk by sewing 44 pieces of American Dream weft together

I travelled to Ireland to teach session styling techniques. Mastering the basics is key to session work. Check out my headhugging precision braid!

I flew over to Barcelona for a new launch from L’Oréal Professionnel – we met up with 150 stylists from 10 countries

Access all areas! This BBC pass was needed when I was on set to handle some red-carpet hair for stars of Eastenders

I look after the hair for a lot of northern soap stars for promotional events. Here I’m styling Coronation Street actress Catherine Tyldsley. She’s wearing custom-made American Dream clip-in extensions

I art directed the hair for Liverpool Fashion Week and couldn’t have done it without my incredible team, thanks guys x

My faux bob for the Mango show. Soft waves were tied in loose elastic at the nape and folded under

To create this texture first I added American Dream 22" original wefts. Watch out for this look, I feel a definite summer trend brewing…

RICHARD PHILLIPART IS AMBASSADOR FOR AMERICAN DREAM HAIR EXTENSIONS

To-do list the hottest happenings this month…

06 January

1. Man up Get suited and booted and pop along to London Collections: Men to see the trends likely to light up the high street this A/W14. Londoncollections.co.uk/men

2. Master your art

08 January

CREATIVE HEAD

•15_Phillipart 3 1

The Headmasters teams from across the UK converge in Battersea to celebrate the best of its 44 salons at the annual Headmasters Awards. Email marketing@ headmasters.com

20 January

3. Be a good fellow It’s Members’ Night at the Wella World Studio in London, with a plethora of salons taking to the stage to show off their work in front of Fellowship scouts. Call 01295 724579 15

6/12/13 12:29:11

#CHedit

BUSINESS

barometer

YOU GOT MALE! The men’s grooming market grew by 5 per cent in 2012. Not only are there more male-specific products on the market, but men are increasingly feeling confident with their grooming regime, shopping for products for themselves, rather than relying on female partners to do this for them. In salons, too, men are becoming more visible: “Men are becoming more comfortable visiting ‘ladies’ salons, rather than going to the barbers,” says Cyndy Hay of Haze at No 10, Larne, Co. Antrim.

ARE MALE CLIENTS MORE LOYAL THAN FEMALES?

55%

OF SALONS REPORT A GROWING NUMBER OF MALE CLIENTS

71%

YES – 40% SAME – 50% NO – 10%

OF MALE CLIENTS HAVE ASKED THEIR STYLIST FOR ADVICE ON HAIR LOSS

“We do have some good-looking girls working here, which contributes to the loyalty of our male clients!” MELANIE CLARK, WORLD OF HAIR & BEAUTY

OCTOBER 2013

HOW WAS IT FOR YOU? How was business in October compared with September?

DECLINING:

14%

17%

STEADY:

25%

•16_Barometer 2

How was business in October 2013 compared with October 2012?

GROWING:

58%

STEADY:

24%

GROWING:

62%

Top tips NEW YEAR, NEW FRIENDS... WE ALL KNOW that January and February are quieter months in the salon, but before resorting to discounts and offers, look a little closer to home for our new clients. Most salons offer a “recommenda-friend” scheme, but it’s surprising just how many clients are completely unaware of it. On the other hand, running a competition to win a year’s free hairdressing would make quite an impact on most people. So why not adapt this model for your recommend-a-friend scheme: “Recommend five friends to us during January and February and you will be entered into a prize draw to win a year’s free hairdressing”. Of course, you’ll need to set certain parameters to ensure the offer is costeffective, but many salons have had great success with this approach. If you have salon software this will be easy to monitor and track; you can also use your system to send thankyou emails to each of your clients who refers someone to you – a great opportunity for personal contact. If you publicise your competition on Facebook, always thank anyone who recommends a client, so potential friends will see how delighted people are with your salon and how much they value your services. Happy New Year. Here’s to many new friends! Jessika Carrera Maybury, Head of Premier Salon

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SALON

CREATIVE HEAD

5/12/13 12:19:33

by switching to LED lighting TODAY Energy effecient & eco-friendly DIRECT replacements for old lights LED bulbs last over 20 YEARS

Save 90% off your lighting bill with LED lights

Creative Head Magazine b.indd 1

05/09/2013 11:48

Shop The latest products, colours and services

Brazilian beauty Think you know your oils? Think again. The luxurious Dry Remedy Daily Moisturizing Oil is part of the newly reformulated Aveda Dry Remedy regimen and is so light it disappears the moment it touches the hair. But don’t let its lightness fool you. It packs a punch, instantly improving hair and ends by 41 per cent thanks to its Brazilian hero ingredient, buruti oil.

RRP £17.50 Call 0870 034 2380 aveda.co.uk

Instant boost

g client’s hair cing three new masques to brin Nanokeratin System is introdu colour and erve pres to rish, RE-PLENISH back to life. RE-VITALISE to nou oth self. smo its to back get y treated hair RE- JUVENATE to help chemicall

nanokeratinsystem.co.uk RRP £57.29 Call 020 8441 9923

Big it up! Wella Professionals lets hair speak for itself with the Body Crafter Spray Gel and Grip Cream Moulding Paste, which defines and doesn’t weigh down.

Body Crafter RRP £9.20 Grip Cream RRP £12.20 Call 01202 595700 wella.com

Bubbling over Scrummi’s new superabsorbent Bubbly Black Towel is sister to the White Waffle Towel and features a unique texture that maximises the absorbency, so towels can hold much more water than a standard flat single-use towel.

•18-19_Shop 2

Straighten up Clients can finally say farewell to damaged, frizzy or unruly curls with KS Ultimate by KeraStraight. With just one application, hair is transformed into super-smooth locks that radiate with shine and that lasts up to four months.

Take that, winter! It’s time to fight back against the effects of winter on your client’s hair with Boosta from Unite. The spray creates volume at the root in order to stamp out dull hair.

Salon price £100 for 500

In-salon service

RRP £15.75

Call 01732 617610 scrummi.com

Call 0845 459 0026 kerastraight.com

Call 0845 034 0770 uniteeurotherapy.com

Creative Head

6/12/13 12:30:07

Buy online Dazzling deals* this month at creativeheadmag.com

FROM DRAB TO FAB

GOLD STANDARD Give your clients beautiful, super-thick hair that oozes health and vitality with Hair Couture Remy Gold Triple Weft from Sleek. Hand selected virgin Remy 100 per cent human hair, all strands are fortified with a special conditioning technique to give added resiliency.

In-salon service

POP TO IT Wanna be in our band? You can with Popband, a selection of soft, stretchy ‘no dent’ hair and head bands that hold the hair tight and leave it kinkfree when it’s taken down. Available in more than 50 colours and designs.

RRP from £4 Call 0782 796 5210 thepopband.com

Call 020 8502 7448 haircouturebysleek.com

MANE ATTRACTION Colour Extend Magnetics is the new collection from Redken that includes a shampoo, conditioner and masque that are built to strengthen, prolong and maintain the vibrancy of your client’s colour.

RRP from £12.50 Call 0845 600 0815 redken.co.uk

MIGHTY MOISTURE The relaunched Essensity collection from Schwarzkopf Professional features a Colour and Repair range that includes an intense treatment mask to strengthen all kinds of damaged hair.

Get 20 per cent off Fabuloso, a range of hair colour-enhancing conditioners that provide instant colour. NOW ONLY £8.12 EACH

*Online deals listed at salon price. Powered by Aston & Fincher

creativeheadmag.com/shop

LIFE’S A BEACH Because clients will never tire of the just-off-the-beach look! LOVE IT Buy one Evo salty dog cocktail beach spray (220ml) and get one Evo haze styling powder (10g) half price!

HAIR HERO Whether you need a clay, putty or shaper, Hairbond is here to save the day. GET IT £4.99

RRP from £11.24 Call 01202 595700 schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

Hold on

CREATIVE HEAD

•18-19_Shop 3

PLUMP IT UP

New gas-free montibel.lo FinalFine Ultimate Shine Professional Hairspray comes in a choice of Strong and Extra Strong to suit your client’s needs.

In winter hair needs a little extra TLC, which is why Davines has introduced its Naturaltech Replumping range. It uses phytoceuticals to act as an antioxidant for hair.

RRP £8.75

RRP from £14.50

Call 01264 334466 montibello.com

Call 020 3301 5449 davines.com

RESTORE AND REVIVE Moroccanoil treatment will restore, revive and nourish damaged hair – it’s magic in a bottle! THE DEAL Get Moroccanoil treatment 125ml for the same price as 100 ml.

6/12/13 12:30:37

#CHedit

At the Fellows hip lun che on with pres ide nt Erro l Dou gla s afte r win nin g Media Person ality Presenting for Matrix at Salon Supplies Business Club

Ce le brat in g X Fa ct or’s 10 th bi rt hd ay with m y tea m

lous With L au re n fro m Fa bu m ag azin e at th e sa lo n

In the frame

A che eky cut for Nichola s McDon ald

Salon owner and X Factor stylist Jamie Stevens snaps away SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadmag

A bit of volu me for Sa m Ba ile y Pe rfe ct in g Ta m era Fo st er’s fi shta il pl ait

Ba ck sta ge wit h Joe y fro m Roug h Copy

F inishin g touche s for Rough Copy’s Kazee m

fo r Sty li n g a sh oot S M a g a zin e

To discover what else Jamie has been up to, visit creativeheadmag.com

RISING STAR NAME: ISABELLA HYDE AGE: 27 SALON: THE HOUSE OF RUSH

Why did you want to be a hairdresser? I applied to a salon when I was younger and didn’t hear back. When I walked past the salon a few weeks later the owner ran out and asked me to join them. Now here I am!

What have been your highlights so far? It’s got to be travelling with the FAME Team and working with ghd and Unite. Of course, none of this would have been possible without Rush Hair, which really supports my career.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years? If I can carry on travelling with work and if I can continue to share my knowledge and skills with hairdressers all over the world then I’ll be very happy.

What would be your dream hairdressing gig? There are so many people I know I would be inspired by, but I would love to work with Robert Lobetta. He’s not afraid to do something different. I think I could learn a lot from him creatively.

•20_In The Frame 1

4/12/13 11:16:05

Inside story

Taylor Taylor, Notting Hill First there was Shoreditch. Then there was the Maldives. Now, Taylor Taylor has unveiled a West London hangout in Notting Hill, with a space inspired by the extravagant baroque tendencies of prerevolutionary France fused with the formality of 18th century England – with a smattering of modern industrial materials to bring it bang upto-date. Hand painted golden peacocks, oversized chandeliers and vintage bronzed mirrors sit beside a gorgeous cocktail bar and lounge area to help clients relax in splendour with something smooth to sip. We think the locals will love it!

Hot buys

now open

Curved lines

For something chic and unique, take advantage of the 47 per cent discount on the stunning Olivia chair from Salon Ambience. RRP FROM £393.22 kris.dade@salonambience.com salonambience.com To see more from Salon Ambience, check out the insert with this issue!

Creative Head

•21_Interiors 1

Guild Hairdressing King’s road For for a taste of the French way of life, Guild Hairdressing has unveiled its first London salon. Established in Paris in 2011, it has brought Philippe Hostalery and Philippe Gentner to ensure there’s a certain je ne sais quoi clients will find irresistible.

4/12/13 11:22:46

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2/12/13 12:05:54

Welcome to

This exciting new consumer hair website fuses the best in consumer beauty writing with Creative HEAD’s passion for salons and stylists Launching early 2014, Layered is the new go-to website offering everyday hair help for real women – a trusted source of style inspiration, product recommendation and professional hair expertise. Layered encourages and empowers women to achieve the hairstyle they really want. It does this by: Giving women fresh new ideas on how to wear their hair. ● Showing them how it’s done with specially ﬁlmed tutorials. ● Telling them about the products they need, and how to use them. ● Passing on expert tips and advice from professional hairstylists nationwide. ●

Even more importantly, wherever they are on the site, users can see related content at a glance, allowing them to travel through the different zones and link trends to products to stylists to salons, and to action whatever they’ve read – whether that’s ﬁnding out how to use the new product she’s about to buy, or booking in to her local salon for the new colour she’s just seen on in a Layered makeover video. It’s closing that loop that makes Layered so unique and exciting – not just for women, but for your salon too!

The Layered Salon Directory The Layered Salon Directory is the most comprehensive and easy-to-use salon directory in the UK, containing listings for more than 12,000 salons. Visit layeredonline.com/mysalon to check yours is included, and gain stand-out by adding details like your opening hours, the brands you stock, the services you offer, and images of your salon and your work. Your salon can now be found by thousands of consumers, helping you gain new clients.

Turn the page to ﬁnd out more…

layeredonline.com 022-025_layered_dps_promo_nov.indd 3

2/12/13 12:06:15

Introducing the

salon directory Enhance your listing now It’s easy and it’s completely FREE!

Visit layeredonline.com/mysalon and create your account.

Update your basic salon listing with details of the services you offer, the brands you stock, your opening hours, examples of your work – and more!

Your salon can now be linked to fresh, exciting editorial on the Layered website – and is ready to be searched by thousands of consumers!

Enhance your listing now, ready for our launch!

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2/12/13 12:06:48

free

salon directory

free

to register

free

to update

The UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest searchable salon directory

Got a question?

Call the Layered team on 020 7183 5866 or email enquiries@layeredonline.com

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2/12/13 12:07:11

MEN’S STYLE

TALKING HEADS

Whatever type of guy he is, your male client expects good hair. And as official hair partner for London Collections: Men, Fudge knows how to give him what he wants with these four S/S14 trends

THE SHOWSTOPPER

EAST MEETS WEST

“We took inspiration from the designer’s love of glitter and covered the models’ heads in the stuff,” says John Vial, creative director of Fudge, who created these looks at the Christopher Shannon S/S14 show.

Fudge session stylist Syd Hayes combined New York with the East End at Sibling, creating ’50s, slicked-back hair with a hint of West Side Story. STEP BY STEP

STEP BY STEP

1. Apply Fudge Big Hair Push-It-Up

1. Brush hair forward and sweep it to

Blow Dry Spray (3) and blow-dry hair up, away from the face. 2. Scrape back the sides of the hair with Fudge Hair Gum (4) and comb hair from either side so that it meets at the back of the head. 3. Keep the sides and back shiny and wet, set with Fudge Skyscraper (5). 4. Tease out a quiff at the front and apply Fudge Matte Hed Gas (6).

the side. 2. Prep hair by painting Fudge Hair Varnish Shine Wax (1) on with a tint brush to create a sticky base. 3. Apply one solid colour of glitter to the hair, graduating towards the ends. For a salon finish add a Fudge Paintbox shade. 4. Spray Fudge Membrane Gas (2) all over the head to seal in the glitter.

•026-027_Fudge 2

CREATIVE HEAD

6/12/13 12:36:31

DON’T MISS IT! #LCM A/W14 kicks off on 6 January. For all the backstage action follow @fudgehair

TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL

FINE AND DANDY

At James Long, John Vial made models’ hair slick and shiny, taking inspiration from ‘helmet hair’.

A fusion of sportswear and the dandy look, session stylist Shon made manly quiffs with side-partings at Richard Nicoll.

STEP BY STEP

1. Apply Fudge Hair Gum (4) and brush

1. Tidy up the hairline and apply Fudge

through hair. 2. Smooth hair with the back of a comb to remove brush lines. 3. Spray Fudge Skyscraper (5) all over the head. 4. Dry with a diffuser and seal with Fudge Hair Cement (7).

Gloss (8) to smooth and protect from heat.

2. Apply a small amount of Fudge Big Hair Body Builder (9).

3. Blow-dry hair back, tight on the sides and with slight height in the front.

4. Apply Fudge Hair Gum (4) all over and create a slight quiff using a wide-tooth comb.

JAMES LONG T-SHIRTFudge is WIN THIS EXCLUSIVET-sh irt! To celebrate the A/W14 season,

You’ve seen the trends, now get the ired by this exclusive James Long T-shirt, insp offering one reader the chance to win £100 win range. Not only that, you’ll also and created using the Fudge Paintbox ary. Janu 19 re befo creativeheadmag.com worth of Fudge products! To enter, visit

3. 2.

5. 6.

8. 9.

Stay one step ahead with Fudge. Call 020 7845 6333 or visit fudge.com/professionals CREATIVE HEAD

•026-027_Fudge 3

2/12/13 11:49:11

Scene Hair by Hester Wernert

THe hottest events every month – get yourself scene!

Open invitation East London’s Truman Brewery was converted into Wella’s Open House to reveal the company’s plans for 2014, in a morning filled with surprises. To an audience of international press, Wella revealed not only exciting new launches for its brands but a totally new approach to its muchloved TrendVision competition. With creative directors Josh Wood and Eugene Souleiman on hand to reference the work they created for the Fashion Week catwalks, this dynamic duo revealed the breathtaking editorial looks for TrendVision’s two seasonal collections – Urban Native and Borderline Beauty. Guests then moved next door to an incredibly evocative set to see the haute couture looks on the catwalk from global artists Hester Wernert from the Netherlands and Russia’s Dimitry Vinokurov in a spellbinding show. Truly a new dawn for TrendVision, and for Wella.

•028-034_Scene 3 2

Creative Head

5/12/13 12:54:13

Hair by Dimitry Vinokurov

Eugene Souleiman and Josh Wood

SEE IT Watch the catwalk show from the Wella Open House at creativeheadmag.com

The three winners celebrate in style

CREATIVE HEAD

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6/12/13 14:55:49

Out of this

world It was all very hush-hush. Salon group The Chapel’s secret show – Episode One – was full of intrigue. Invitations were sent out with Chapel wristbands and strict instructions to bring mobile phones with torch apps. Meeting in a pub close to the venue near Exmouth Market, attendees were guided to a quirky theatre venue five minutes before the start and asked to enter with an open mind! Sci-fi was the theme, with the venue set in complete darkness with only a UV black light as a guide. Twenty six models were presented by The Chapel team, wearing LED glasses to showcase styling, colouring and hair extension techniques. Guests used those all-important torch apps to get up close and personal. And with the £20 ticket price proceeds going to Cancer Research, it also shone a light on a great cause. Thoroughly illuminating!

•028-034_Scene 3 4

Creative Head

5/12/13 12:56:23

Creative Head - December 2013 Issue:Layout 1 29/11/2013 13:56 Page 1

REM S A L O N S Order your 2014 Salon Catalogue at www.rem.co.uk 3 YEAR WARRANTY

The REM Salon 2014 Collection is available to order throughout the UK from REM distributors backed by the REM 3 year warranty

Sensation_quick_220x285_printReady.pdf

28/11/2013

15:43

Joanna McGarry Kelly Bowerbank

A change

of pace

The fast and frantic reality of the digital world was the topic du jour when The Coterie gathered in London for its final meeting of 2013. Taking the hot seats were two of the forces behind luxury online fashion and beauty portal Neverunderdressed. com – assistant editor Kelly Bowerbank, and beauty director Joanna McGarry. Following enlightening revelations of how the site burst into being, Joanna – who previously led the beauty team at Stylist – spoke of the web’s insatiable need for speed: “You learn to write fast. Something happens, you write about it and upload it. Pressure is deep within our blood as the pace is immediate but I revel on the adrenaline.” Pivotal to the technological decisions made behind the site’s slick content, straight-talking Kelly added: “Digital is ever-evolving. Basically, you have to adapt or die.” The crowd at the mesmerising meeting included reigning It Guy and It Girl, Takuya Morimoto and Angel MontagueSayers; salon owner Karine Jackson; session stylist Liam Curran; and general manager at Daniel Galvin, Stephen Nurse. Ending the evening on a superstylish note, everybody attending left with the Touch straightener, courtesy of sponsor, Cloud Nine. What a way to go!

Creative Head

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6/12/13 12:39:15

TWEET IT Follow the Creative HEAD team at all the hottest events @creativeheadirl

Gro your

OWN

When the London-based GRO group (so-called because they see themselves as nurturers of talent, rather than employers of hairstylists) invited us to help judge its inaugural art team auditions, we jumped at the chance – these guys do street style like nobody else in the business. Sure enough, the looks were fresh, exciting and original, and presented with passion by stylists and juniors who cited everything from Picasso to Mickey Mouse as their inspirations.

•028-034_Scene 3 8

And the results are… Artistic team: Laura Nyeca, Alexis Hood, Carla Rinaldi, Rebecca Bee Cottington, Roberto Guerra, Tatiana Di Lecce, Younes Khassal. Salon Creative Team: Santiago Agüero Rodriguez, Eduardo Schuetze, Maddison Eaton, Stephen Tabram, Vanessa Arujo.

Creative Head

6/12/13 12:39:35

Introducing Hairaisers C r e at i v e Pa rt n e r

Adam Reed For more information visit www.hairaisers.com facebook.com/hairaisers.london @hairaisers

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28/11/2013 10:24

Get noticed ONLINE

(for all the right reasons)

It’s hard work getting noticed in the hairdressing industry. You not only need the skills, but the right contacts and a platform that lets you shine. Cue ghd Showcase, a free online portal for hairstylists. Here, ghd stars reveal how versatile the online-sharing platform can be

JO ROBERTSON ghd head of education, UK and Ireland Creative HEAD: Why are you on ghd Showcase? Jo Robertson: It lets me share my work and the ghd teams’ work on a professional platform, rather than sharing it on Facebook with my non-hairdresser friends. CH: How do you use your profile? JR: I upload everything and anything that is related to hair. It’s a great way at looking back over previous work. CH: What’s your favourite thing about ghd Showcase? JR: I love that images can be stored in collections and it looks really professional. CH: Are you inspired by others people’s ghd Showcase work? JR: Yes. I have to create moodboards for my job and there are so many different images on ghd Showcase from stylists worldwide that it’s a great source of inspiration.

•036-037_GHD 2 2

CREATIVE HEAD

2/12/13 11:56:36

Lorna Moore ghd lead educator and style squad member Creative HEAD: Why do you have a ghd Showcase profile? Lorna Moore: I think it’s a great way of interacting with other stylists in an informal way. It’s also fantastic for sharing tips and ideas for working creatively with ghd products and tools. CH: How do you use your profile? LM: I upload a lot of ‘how-to’ videos and step-by-steps. I also use it to share work from the ghd Academy courses I’m involved in, as well as share behind-the-scenes snippets from London Fashion Week.

Leigh-Anne Regan ghd art team member Creative HEAD: Why do you have a ghd Showcase profile? Leigh-Anne Regan: It’s my go-to place to upload my session work and it’s perfect for me to upload my work to share with industry contacts. I also love the fact that it’s so quick and easy to use. It’s something that I can update from my iPad in a matter of seconds! CH: Are you inspired by other work on ghd Showcase? LR: Definitely! As part of the ghd art team I have a close relationship with the team. I regularly check their profiles to see what they’re getting up to!

How to create a profile

Sign up to ghd Showcase Creativeheadmag.com/ ghdshowcase is the place to register your details. It only takes a minute, we promise!

Creative Head

•036-037_GHD 2 3

You’ve got mail!

Check your inbox for a verification email. You are now ready to create your very own ghd Showcase profile!

Build and grow

Fill your profile and watch it grow. You can update your profile on the move on an iPhone and iPad, just log on to ghdhair.com/login.

2/12/13 11:59:19

fresh thinking on business

Want to grow your business?

Get to Salon Smart! 27-28 April 2014 Park Plaza Riverbank, London BOOK NOW 01434 610944 038-043_ss_promo.indd 2

3/12/13 14:23:37

Tickets cost

£189 per person

Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £75 single room supplement applies.

Includes: l Full two-day business programme l Three-course dinner with wine l Four-star overnight accommodation l Breakfast, lunch and all refreshments l Bumper goodie bag

Motivational speakers Practical workshops Live Q&A sessions Non-stop networking

Come and be inspired at Creative HEAD’s two-day business networking event! creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

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Look who’s talking

@creativeheadmag #salonsmart14

facebook.com/creativeheadmagazine

3/12/13 14:24:11

fresh thinking on business

ONE ticket. TWO Sunday 27 April

18.00 Meet & Mix

09.40 Andrew Cannon

Enjoy a glass of fizz and the chance to talk shop one-on-one with your hairdressing heroes.

14.00 Check-in opens

19.30 Three-course dinner with wine

15.30 Nancy Cruickshank and Kate Shapland

21.00 Westrow Artistic Team

Awarded the Most Wanted BEST NEW SALON 2013 Award for his beautifully crafted barbershop, Ruffians, Andrew can wax lyrical about style. But the cool design ethic is a smart business strategy – find out from the man himself why the details really do matter.

Hear how the digital guru behind Handbag.com and the Telegraph Magazine’s beauty editor launched MyShowcase – the beauty-retailing concept that’s got everybody talking.

16.20 Caroline Sanderson Turning around an ailing salon business, launching an online academy, implementing a brand-transforming marketing campaign… All this and more earned Caroline the BUSINESS THINKER title at the 2013 Most Wanted Awards. Hear her inspiring story.

17.00 Free time

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Live onstage – an exclusive hair presentation and intimate after-dinner conversation with Westrow’s Steve Rowbottom and Matthew Sutcliffe.

22.00 The bar is open

Monday 28 April 09.20 Nicholas Wood The president of Goldwell and KMS California in the UK and Ireland shares his latest business insight.

10.00 Sean Dawson The general manager at HOB Salons oversees the smooth running of the group’s 24 salons – developing teams and nurturing talent and implementing structures and work practices that ensure tip-top standards are always met. And he’ll be revealing how he does it…

10.20 Salon Smart Creates Learn how to perfect the client experience in a specially devised masterclass, delivering expert advice on the serious business of customer services.

11.20 Ken West Whether you’re concerned about underperforming stylists or the implications of the minimum wage, the director of 3.6.5 Education is back to discuss money matters.

3/12/13 14:24:51

DAYS. all this! 11.45 Daniel Galvin Team Legendary hairdresser Daniel Galvin OBE, his stylist son, James, and operations director, Stephen Nurse, will come together on stage for the first time at Salon Smart. Come and listen as the trio reveals all about building a brand, family dynamics, big decision-making, and how even one of the UK’s most famous salons is still working hard to keep evolving.

12.30 Working Lunch Enjoy 90 minutes of networking with leading hairdressing and business brands. Learn about new products and services, discuss your own business needs, enjoy exclusive offers – and tuck into a delicious lunch!

14.00 Think Tank Have your real-life business dilemmas solved live on stage by an expert panel in this riveting Q&A session.

15.00 Salon Smart Creates Enjoy the second part of your customer service masterclass.

creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

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16.00 Jamie Stevens He is the go-to hair guru for mega TV shows including X Factor and Gok’s Fashion Fix, owns two thriving salons, is a global ambassador for Matrix, and travels the world educating and inspiring others. No doubt about it, Jamie Stevens has achieved more than your average 30-something – and this is your chance to hear all about his sensational journey.

Tickets cost

£189 per person

Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £75 single room supplement applies.

BOOK NOW 01434 610944 LAP IT UP IN LUXURY @creativeheadmag #salonsmart14

facebook.com/creativeheadmagazine

5/12/13 14:35:03

fresh thinking on business

Your whole business package 27-28 April 2014 BOOK NOW 01434 610944 Sponsored by

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3/12/13 14:25:30

Tickets cost

£189

DO BUSINESS IN STYLE

per person

Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £75 single room supplement applies.

Includes: ● Full two-day business programme ● Three-course dinner with wine ● Four-star overnight accommodation ● Breakfast, lunch and all refreshments ● Bumper goodie bag

The four-star Park Plaza Riverbank provides a luxurious setting for Salon Smart guests. With stunning views over the River Thames, hotel amenities include a ﬁtness centre, an award-winning restaurant and free Wi-Fi, while the city’s key attractions, such as the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament, are within easy walking distance.

Smart is my “Salon business Mecca

“

LAUREN TURNER, SPIRIT HAIR COMPANY, HIGH WYCOMBE

In association with

ECO-FRIENDLY SINGLE USE SALON TOWELS

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3/12/13 14:26:07

INSPIRED

BE ALL YOU CAN BE Education is vital to a hairdresser’s career, which is why Wella’s new education programme is the perfect starting point for all your business needs

Mastering colour

Scan to find out more about the Master Colour Programme

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WE ALL WANT to be as successful as we possibly can, and, like most things, this begins with education. For something so vital to a hairdresser’s career, doesn’t it make sense to partner with the best educators around? Wella has more than 130 years of experience in providing industry-leading education and wants to be the best partner you can have to help realise your ambitions and achieve success. How does it do this? By providing a portfolio of education that covers everything you need to succeed: Colour and Movement, Inspiration and Trends, Care, Cut and Style, Business and Personal Development, as well

as giving you unprecedented access to more than 85 guest artists and art teams. Wella has refreshed its offering to give you the most upto-date education possible. The brand has implemented a new approach to the Wella Master Colour Programme (MCP), including new features aimed at the salon owner. The four-stage MCP is one of the best-recognised colour accreditations in the industry and the new features provide a great business-building opportunity to grow colour in the salon. New elements include a Salon Owner Preview Evening, which will help you to ensure you’re selecting the right person from the salon to go on the course and become a Master Colour Expert. Salon owners can then attend a Business Day to find out how to utilise their new expert to drive turnover.

CREATIVE HEAD

2/12/13 12:15:37

Back to business A fresh approach to business education has also been implemented this year. Courses are divided into three levels – Essential, Exceed and Expert – to meet salon training needs. Courses to support the running of a successful business are split into three categories: Team and Individual Development, Fundamentals of a Successful Business, and Salon Image and Equity.

Scan the QR code to get more information about Wella Business Education

Finally, the Wella Business Gurus are on hand to ensure that you can truly achieve your goals. The team includes Gilli Bruce, who looks after behaviour change and management; Coni Masciave, who will make sure you reach your full potential; Winning Ways, who will share their knowhow to help salons become successful; and Michael Van Clarke, who will show you how to run and operate your salon in the best way possible.

To find out more about Wella Education and to download the new Wella Education 2014 app (available on iPhone, iPad and Android), email wellaevents.im@pg.com

Creative Head

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2/12/13 12:16:04

INSPIRED

AIM FOR THE TOP Meet all your goals and grow your business with Wella Education’s new courses, while Wella Professionals TrendVision Award is the perfect place to launch your career into the stratosphere!

The new courses

COURSE Bleach it! WHO’S IT FOR? It’s perfect for hairdressers who have completed Foundation/ Essential Colour and Corrective Colour in the past two years and are looking to perfect their skills. WHAT YOU’LL LEARN You’ll gain a better understanding in how to get the best from a scalp bleach, and how to tailor the results for clients. DURATION One day. PRICE £168 (inc VAT). WHEN AND WHERE? London: 17 March, 5 June, 17 September and 10 November. Manchester: 29 January, 15 May, 17 September and 11 November.

COURSE The Perfect Colour Choice WHO’S IT FOR? This is ideal for hairdressers with one to three years’ experience as a colourist and who want more confidence in making the right choices for their clients. WHAT YOU’LL LEARN You’ll discover how to choose the right colour every time with simple step-by-step guidance from the Wella Education team. DURATION One day. PRICE £168 (inc VAT). WHEN AND WHERE? London: 24 April, 19 June, 16 September and 28 October. Manchester: 5 February, 6 May, 6 August and 29 October.

COURSE Get the Look WHO’S IT FOR? This course is perfect for hairdressers who have a minimum of two years of experience. WHAT YOU’LL LEARN You will leave with the ability to transform your client’s tresses with a step-by-step consultation. You will also be able to achieve celebrity-inspired looks. DURATION One day. PRICE £168 (inc VAT). WHEN AND WHERE? London: 12 May, 8 July, 29 September and 11 November. Manchester: 11 March, 11 June, 1 September and 28 October.

COURSE NIOXIN Evolve WHO’S IT FOR? Featuring Kay McIntyre, NIOXIN UK creative ambassador, this is aimed at experienced stylists and is ideal for new and existing users of NIOXIN. WHAT YOU’LL LEARN You will develop the best techniques for cutting and colouring fine or problematic hair as well as cutting sectioning patterns and tools to enhance body and volume. DURATION One day. PRICE £300 (inc VAT). WHEN AND WHERE? London: 29 April and 21 October. Manchester: 17 March and 2 September.

To find out more about Wella Education 2014 speak to your Wella account manager or contact your nearest Wella World Studio: 020 7637 7172 (London), 0161 834 2645 (Manchester).

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CREATIVE HEAD

2/12/13 12:16:30

Ahead of the trends Show Wella Professionals your vision and go beyond the expected. The prestigious annual TrendVision Award recognises up-and-coming stylists and the most masterful colour work within the industry, providing a spectacular platform to encourage creativity and showcase talent. Feel the thrill of competing, for either the Young Talent or Color crown. To be in with a chance of winning, all you have to do is enter your interpretation of one of this year’s Wella Professionals’ trends from TrendVision – S/S is Urban Native and A/W is Borderline Beauty. The winners will be

able to continue their journey on a global platform at the International TrendVision Award Final. All Gold winners of the TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final also win tailor-made mentoring with Wella Professionals, preparing them for the challenges of the International TrendVision Award. Last year’s gold winners are being mentored by Darren Ambrose of D&J Ambrose; Akin Konizi of HOB Salons; Adam Reed of Percy&Reed; and Jayson Gray of Toni&Guy. On top of this, the 2013 silver and bronze winners will take part in a mentoring day with Adam Reed.

Get the inside scoop

The TrendVision Award 2014 Insight events are your chance to get up close and personal with top industry icons and get top tips on how to get the best from your entry. See below for a date and place near you: Tues 4 February, Newcastle w/HOB Academy Wed 5 February, Glasgow w/HOB Academy Tues 11 February, Manchester w/HOB Academy Wed 12 February, Manchester w/HOB Academy

Mon 17 February, Bournemouth w/Cheynes Tues 18 February, London w/Cheynes Wed 19 February, London w/Cheynes PRICE £20 (inc VAT) TIME 7pm to 8:30pm

Scan to see highlights from the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2013 UK and Ireland Final!

Buy Now Places are limited for the TrendVision Insight events, so book now to avoid disappointment. Contact your Wella account manager or call 0845 601 8128

To request a TrendVision Award entry pack, call 0845 601 8128 (UK) or email wellaevents.im@pg.com

Creative Head

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2/12/13 12:16:59

The evolution Top-knots, back wax, extensions – welcome to the world of the modern male

dge, , D&J Ambrose, Fu Charles Worthington ite Un d an y Images courtesy of Gu co, Toni& kuya Morimoto, Sa Great Lengths, Ta

D HEADS of Ancient Egypt, THERE WERE THE SHAVE an Empire and it was all the the long lengths of the Rom in 17th century Europe. In the rage to wear a powdered wig Bob tles sporting mop tops and 20th century it was The Bea ess, usn scio con lic pub into the Marley bringing dreadlocks and Harry Styles drive tweens ber Bie tin Jus ys, and nowada ept bangs. wild with their long, side-sw nd a long time, but it’s only arou n bee e hav Stylish men to on the high street has started recently that the regular Joe per 53 with g, min groo of s busines take a genuine interest in the ease in male clients last year.* incr an g rdin reco ns cent of salo more care of themselves “We have noticed gents taking of of their clothes to the quality in general, from the quality Lee ky Ric s say it,” e ts to styl their haircut and the produc es & Payne. Jon of ctor dire tive Jones, crea s, company educator for But why now? Michael Franco rest partly down to the rising inte D&J Ambrose, believes it’s own ir the got y ps finall in men’s fashion – indeed, cha lections: Men, in the summer Col don Lon with k Fashion Wee and of Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane of 2012. “Through the likes no It’s ng. ishi our fl are igners Riccardo Tisci, menswear des l. followed suit,” adds Michae has hair ’s men t tha coincidence ds hea ir the of top the on However, it’s not just the hair

•048-049_Evolution 2 2

l, with demand for hair remova that men are worried about, . UK the ss hing record levels acro manicures and tanning reac k bac are for men after haircuts “Our most popular services massages,” says Julia Gaudio, and waxing, intimate waxing uty in Cambridge, which owner of Elajé Hair and Bea 2 in response to a growth in unveiled Elajé Homme in 201 the number of male clients. e customer? “He is a But who is the modern mal ble income who is influenced professional man with disposa a. his appearance,” reveals Juli by fashion and takes pride in in Six le. e than likely to be sing And nowadays he is also mor with ed, 25 and 34 are unmarri 10 British men aged between unattached.** This ensures ely plet 40 per cent of them com ish earance – 50 per cent of Brit they work harder at their app a to good hair, according men feel more confident with

survey by Fudge. ure has been key as we “Music, film and celebrity cult n for a David Beckham, a Rya get more and more requests rix Mat s, rth,” says Jamie Steven Gosling or a Chris Hemswo tive crea l, Via ist. However, John ambassador and X Factor styl to ket mar the rise in the male director for Fudge, attributes

CREATIVE HEAD

6/12/13 14:21:06

of man Keegan influenced men with sportsmen. “In the ’70s Kevin Rodman in the ’90s and now his perm, then it was Dennis impact,” he says. David Beckham has a huge ming the way modern day men “Beckham has been transfor es OSMO ambassador Paolo think about themselves,” agre football icon as single-handedly Andreuccetti, who cites the . “He gave men something to transforming a nation of men was for one person to come believe in,” he says. “All it took Now men have a much more out and say, ‘Guys, it’s okay.’ that of females, and are much frequent salon return rate to more loyal to their one stylist.” ing for hair extensions A few of years ago, a man ask indeed, but Simon Daniel, would’ve been a rare species Belle Toujours, saw fivedirector of Cardiff hair salon clients in 2013 compared with times more male extensions e er had any requests for mal 2012. “Before last year we nev who nts clie ular reg of number extensions. Now we have a s extensions to mirror the look gth Len at Gre for come to us ” says Simon. of their favourite celebrities,

CREATIVE HEAD

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grooming is becoming There’s no doubt that male ? money are we really talking mainstream, but how much 4 £57 th ng industry was wor Well, in 2012 the male groomi ducts, men can’t get enough pro to es million.*** When it com s for men soaring by 21 per of them, with hairsprays sale mpoos experiencing a 16 per cent and men-orientated sha , sales in the men’s grooming cent rise in sales.**** Overall billion by 2017. market are set to exceed £1.1 British Barbers’ Association the from In fact, new research e shaving brand shows that and The Bluebeards Reveng aissance in the UK, with the wet shaving is enjoying a ren ves ing traditional cut-throat sha number of barbers perform t 12 months. jumping 50 per cent in the pas e year, but a new dawn in mal new a We’ve only just begun in step Welcome to the next grooming is definitely here. man’s evolution...

*Salon Services **General Ligestyles Survey 2013 ***Ungerer Limited ****Kantar Worldpanel

MEN’S ROOM

6/12/13 14:22:57

This charming man With clean lines and linear cuts, the first menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection from GRO London is decidedly urban yet quintessentially British Photography by Rhian Cox

â&#x20AC;˘50-53_Men GRO 2

2/12/13 12:33:10

•50-53_Men GRO 3

2/12/13 12:34:20

•50-53_Men GRO 4

2/12/13 12:34:57

WATCH IT See the rest of the

collection creativeheadmag.com

â&#x20AC;˘50-53_Men GRO 5

6/12/13 14:24:45

Hair Santiago AgĂźero Rodriguez and Roberto Guerra of GRO London using Bumble and bumble. Make-up Marco Bollini. Styling Holly Barber.

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21/11/2013 15:02

WANT TO WORK WITH ONE OF THE UK’S COOLEST BRANDS? Paul Mitchell® is proud to announce that the brand has officially been given CoolBrands® status, in an influential annual initiative to identify 78 of the UK’s coolest brands for 2013/14. Founded on the principles of cruelty-free and professional only, a panel of 37 influencers and 3,000 members of the British public scored our brand based on style, innovation, originality, authenticity, desirability and uniqueness. Award-Winning and New Our multi award-winning products now boast a Curls system dedicated to the needs of curly haired guests, and a Blonde system for chemically-addicted clients. Two of our most successful launches to date, these are backed up with inspirational education and marketing support systems.

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A room of one’s own

MEN’S ROOM

Scruffy barbers are out. Unisex salons can sometimes be too girly. Where can a guy go to get groomed? We ask the experts how to get the modern man through the door…

WE’VE ALL SEEN THEM. The grumpylooking staff ignoring you as you walk in. The dog-eared copies of The Sun from a fortnight ago to entertain you while you wait. The basic short, back and sides that’s always just too short. And the blanket of itchy, cut hairs glued to your face, neck and shirt… it’s clear today’s male customer isn’t enamoured with the old-fashioned high street barber. But what’s the alternative? A ‘unisex’ salon that has flowers at reception, copies of Look and Grazia to thumb through, with a soundtrack consisting of The Saturdays and Ed Sheeran, where you’re left sitting next to women in foils? The time has come for purveyors of hairdressing services to ensure their business appeals to the male as well as the female client, especially considering the value of the male market is on the up, while women are stretching times between appointments. It makes good monetary sense to ensure the modern man is catered for once through your door. Think about it – today’s barber needs to

Aveda's pop-up barbershop

At Aveda’s High Holborn Institute in London, a pop-up barbershop was unveiled to coincide with London Collections: Men in June 2013 and returned last November to support Movember, offering gents a dedicated barbering space with services to match. “The male grooming market is changing. Men are now looking for a more traditional service that was once only available in dedicated barbershops,” explains Aveda’s Darren Potter. Initiatives such as the pop-up barbershop are communicated across the Aveda network of salons to inspire from not only from a creative perspective, but also from a business point of view. “Our salon owners can come and see how events such as this can pilot new salon offerings,” adds Darren. In June, appointments for the pop-up barbershop were booked up to 92 per cent, and 60 per cent of these guests went on to buy an Aveda product.

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CREATIVE HEAD

4/12/13 11:36:43

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#Men’sRoom HOB Man

Pascha in Cheshire with REM furniture

Mitchell Barbers

The Chester range from Salon Ambience

be a professional dedicated to male hairstyles, while also create a meeting point for their target customers, creating a confident in handling problems related to shaving, skincare fun mix of barbershop and sports bar.” and beard and moustache grooming. “The male hairdressing “Retro-style barber chairs never go out of fashion, with the salon has become an oasis chrome trim on the chairs of wellbeing, relaxation and often reflected throughout professionalism,” argues the salon,” agrees REM’s Kris Dade from furniture Julie Braithwaite. “The supplier Salon Ambience. private members’ club “Therefore the furniture in look is popular, with Wendy Droznika from furniture provider LSE offers five tips to making a men’s room magnificent this oasis is essential.” lots of dark wood and “When a male client walks rich leather.” A younger ● From both a design and practical point of view, give the in, their initial impression generation of men is far stylist adequate room to work by allowing a minimum of should be that this is more adventurous than 5ft from the centre of one chair to the next. definitely not a ‘femaletheir fathers, she adds, ● Having a comfortable, good-looking barber chair is only’ salon,” adds Aston so consider separate essential: it’s important that it’s hydraulic, has a headrest & Fincher salon designer, areas for beauty that are and has the option of a reclining back for wet shaves, Stephen Ewings. “Men “discreetly hidden to treatments and so on. are generally looking for a spare the blushes of men ● Consider a VIP/treatment area, as men require privacy sleeker, more streamlined who want the treatments with treatments such as colour, waxing, pedicures, interior with a relaxing barbut don’t want to shout manicures, facials and eyebrow grooming. style ambience and strong about it”. ● To coincide with the growth in men’s grooming products, masculine details.” Today’s And while you’re a well-placed, well-lit and well-displayed retail area is vital. salons may feature strong thinking about what to ● As appointments are not always made in men’s salons, a colours and stylish furniture offer guys in the chair, very comfortable and welcoming waiting area is vital, with that, while still offering a think also about what somewhere to put drinks as well as up-to-date magazines. masculine surrounding, to provide while they’re are also fresh, modern and waiting to be seen. welcoming. Kris points to “A selection of quality a comeback of sorts to the magazines, a flat screen ‘classic’ barbershop, with retro styles and colour schemes TV and coffee machine all help to create the atmosphere that that add a more masculine feel to the surroundings. “This is men want,” she argues; “nothing like the scruffy barbers of proving increasingly popular, with salon owners looking to old, or the overly-girly unisex salon.”

The groom room

Tatu from LSE 58

•56-58_Men… Into you 4

William from Salon Ambience

Apollo from Takara Belmont

Tarifa from Aston & Fincher

Emperor from REM Creative Head

6/12/13 14:26:17

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18/11/2013 10:42

Ruffians, Edinburgh

MEN’S ROOM

A BOY’S OWN ADVENTURE FROM HEATED JACKETS TO PERSONAL HAIR VACUUMS, MOST WANTED BEST NEW SALON 2013 RUFFIANS IS ALL ABOUT DOING THINGS A LITTLE DIFFERENTLY…

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CREATIVE HEAD

5/12/13 11:53:34

DEEP IN COVENT GARDEN is a five storey, Victorian townhouse that’s home to the genteel environs of The Lady magazine, first published in 1885. However, the inhabitants may soon be reaching for the smelling salts now their new neighbour has moved in. Simply turn the corner and you’ll find the first London outpost of barbering brand Ruffians, winner of Most Wanted BEST NEW SALON 2013. And it means business. Brainchild of founder Andrew Cannon, the time is right for Ruffians to make its mark on the capital. Its first location, in Edinburgh, has in 18 months firmly established itself as a barber that does things a little differently. Just look at the vacuum system for sucking away cut hair at each station, or the heaters that gently warm your jacket ready for when you leave your appointment. There are floor suction ‘vacpans’ that collect hair and send it to a central hub in the basement, and the salon also uses its own fragrance – Ruffians One – to ensure the place always smells just so. Edinburgh has served as a testing ground ahead of taking the concept to London to launch a flagship, allowing Ruffians to unveil its shop in the capital armed with plenty more knowledge. Andrew is clearly passionate about his brand, and it might be surprising to learn that he’s not a barber. Growing up on a fish farm on the west Scottish coast, he studied biological sciences at university before working in marketing and advertising agencies in London. On a nine-month honeymoon that saw his wife and him travel up through the Americas, the germ of an idea was nurtured – to offer men a service-led alternative to outdated barbershops found on provincial high streets, and the feminine environs of the unisex salon. CREATIVE HEAD

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6/12/13 14:27:29

David Gourlay

the fact that everything is done in one place, including the wash. The basins are front-facing, harking back to 18th century barbering traditions. These sit within chunky old desks, in two communal blocks of four. Exposed brickwork, industrial metal and upholstered Apollo II chairs from Takara Belmont in the Ruffians’ shade of petroleum blue form the decor. “Now we’re in London, eyes will be on us. This is our flagship – we want to succeed, we don’t want to be a trend. We want people to come back again and again.” Andrew refers repeatedly to ‘charm’ as a key ingredient often missing from other offerings. “I think about the man walking down the street and deciding where to go,” he explains. “What are you judging? What’s it going to cost? Does it fit my image? You need to see the charm from the outside, and inside it’s all about service.” Much of it, he feels, is down to training; and ingraining into staff that barbering is actually a hospitality trade, not just a service. While barbering skills are key, of course, he rates the art of banter as equally important. “Each of our team needs to adapt to each of our clients coming through the door.

Ian Fallon

“We felt there was no dedicated quality men’s hairdresser or barber brand in the UK,” explains Andrew. “We wanted to shake up the industry, re-establish the reputation of the barbershop as a service and experience that men can look forward to, rather than view it as a chore.” He looked at the areas where men feel relaxed, comfortable and enjoy spending time, such as pubs, coffee shops and sports clubs, and decided to build the interior around these influences. “It’s all about girls in the hair industry – boys are left behind,” he sighs. “I don’t want to be ‘groomed’, I don’t want champagne. I want something I’d drink in the pub, I want people to realise men’s hair is exciting and shouldn’t be overlooked.” The London location includes the chance to relax in front of an open fire with specially roasted, freshly made coffee and an iPad. Because of where it’s situated, this branch has a larger retail area at the front to take advantage of the huge number of tourists in the area. Ruffians currently sells its own branded line, which includes fragrance, shampoos, shaving and styling products. Clients at the new branch, once sat in their seat, will enjoy

Ruffians, Covent Garden

Andrew Cannon

#Men’sRoom

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6/12/13 15:09:19

Earned it?

Win it. Ultimate respect

Creative HEADâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2014 Most Wanted Awards launch in March creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted

MW_promo RIGHT SIZE 1

6/12/13 14:37:06

Many of our staff have left school early, and might be lacking in some confidence,” explains Andrew. “Every Friday morning we sit and talk as a team about current affairs – everyone has to bring in something that interests them. Edinburgh salon manager, Ian Fallon, loves art and theatre and I love sport, so between us all we’re building up a chest of knowledge. It’s all brought together and you can then share that knowledge with the client and the banter begins.” While the team enjoys success now, it wasn’t an easy start – Andrew didn’t have a single hairdresser on board until the night before the Edinburgh launch. “I thought that it would be easy to recruit. I was wrong,” he admits. “Six weeks before we launched I started approaching people, and they thought I was crazy. I didn’t yet have a shop, I had no experience and they didn’t want to risk leaving their job.” It’s clear that the first team member he got on board – manager Ian – is a trusted right-hand man. “I wore Ian down, basically. He took a leap of faith!” laughs Andrew. But why did he? “When I originally received an email from Andrew it was so wordy I thought it was spam, so I just deleted it,” chuckles Ian. “I was on contract elsewhere, there was nothing to see and so I said no, but the seed was planted.

When we met a fortnight later he showed me the plans and it drew me in. I could now see what the client would see.” Still, even now getting the right staff has been tough: “From 200 applicants we took on two people,” says Andrew, shaking his head. But as word of mouth grew, so did the shop – the Edinburgh space now has a nine-strong team, including its first trainee, David Gourlay. “The whole look of the shop and brand is so appealing. I feel so lucky to have got this job,” he says. “Ruffians is so much more than a barber, and people are interested in what we’re doing. I’m off to a cocktail evening tonight to style hair and talk about Ruffians – it’s great getting up and coming to work!” Obviously there are other barber salon brands that have launched in recent years, but Andrew is adamant that Ruffians is the whole package: “Service, atmosphere, brand experience. It’s all about the client.” That includes the myriad events it hosts, which get people talking and have included pop-up bars, art exhibitions and charity fundraisers. Andrew bristles with pride when he considers all that the young brand has achieved so far. “When I walk into Ruffians, I still feel that ‘wow!’ I can’t believe it actually exists,” he smiles. “I’ve managed to create what I wanted.”

The team celebrating winning the Most Wanted BEST NEW SALON 2013

Interiors photography courtesy of Ian Fallon

#Men’sRoom

MAIN STAGE SPEAKER

28 APRIL 2014

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6/12/13 15:09:43

â&#x20AC;˘066-071_TakuyaProfile 2

Creative Head

2/12/13 12:47:23

PROFILE

In 2007 Takuya Morimoto saw a brooks+Brooks seminar and decided to follow them to london. now he’s one of the UK’s hottest stylists and was named IT Guy on the 2013 it list When hairdresser Takuya Morimoto was 23 years old, he had an epiphany. He wanted to move to London and work for Brooks+Brooks. He didn’t wish for fame and fortune, just a chance to cut hair at a place that inspired him. “The salon I was working for in Japan received information about a Brooks+Brooks seminar and my senior recommended that I go. The techniques were amazing and made complete sense to me,” remembers Takuya. Perhaps that would’ve been all there was to it, one seminar among many that he attended; but the ideas had taken hold in his mind. So, in May 2007 he packed up and headed for the UK capital. “I didn’t know anyone in London,” he admits. “All I knew was that Brooks+Brooks was there.” He made it, but it wasn’t all plain sailing. Like many good stories, Takuya’s is one of determination, sorrow and, ultimately, success. “Takuya’s journey to fulfil his dream is one of inspiration. We are honoured he decided to come and work alongside us,” enthuses Sally Brooks, co-owner of Brooks+Brooks. “This is his story, from one corner of the Earth to another…”

How the adventure began... Creative Head

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6/12/13 14:34:41

BROOKS+BROOKS

“I left my CV at Brooks+Brooks twice, but never heard anything. Then, one day, I found Sally standing outside the salon. I saw my chance and went to speak to her. I’m not sure what she saw in me, but she said I could come in the next day”

“I did an internship at Brooks+Brooks for a year and worked every day of it. When I was working in a hair salon in Japan, I worked very hard and could not have any days off. This meant I didn’t need any time off work in London and it gave me a strong mindset”

“First of all, I worked in a Japanese hair salon in London while studying English, but Brooks+Brooks was always my goal”

“About six months after I’d moved to London, my Father called me. He was usually in good spirits, but that day, he said in a weak voice: ‘I may not live much longer, Takuya, but seeing how you are managing on your own in London has put me at ease.’ I decided to head back to Japan. He died the night I returned but his belief in me spurred me to succeed”

•066-071_TakuyaProfile 4

CREATIVE HEAD

2/12/13 12:48:37

“During my internship, I started participating in session work as I wanted to build my portfolio. I used all my spare time to go on shoots and attend fashion shows. my very first catwalk show was for the fashion designer Satoshi Date”

“In May 2009, I had to get my visa, but it was a long process and so I decided to go to Shanghai for six months to work. I taught local hairdressers various styling techniques, as well as styling hair for TV shows and photoshoots”

“When I started at Brooks+Brooks, I had been hairdressing for seven years in Japan, but I had to start all over again, sweeping the floor and observing how everyone worked. I didn’t mind, I was just happy to be working there”

“I officially became a member of the Brooks+Brooks team in January 2010. Three years after coming to London, my dream had come true”

What came next…

CREATIVE HEAD

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2/12/13 12:49:15

“I am now in charge of the hair at Satoshi Date during London Fashion Week”

HUNGER

“Winning the It List’s IT GUY of 2013 is the highlight of my career so far. I couldn’t believe it. It showed me that if you are determined, you will succeed”

“I also work on numerous editorial collections for magazines including Hunger and Surface, as well as for advertisers such as Converse and Kenzo Paris”

•066-071_TakuyaProfile 6

CREATIVE HEAD

6/12/13 15:11:34

SURFACE

“I am happy at the moment, but I want to keep improving my hairdressing and session skills as they are both important to me. Right now, I plan just to keep working hard”

“I take two very different approaches to my salon work and my session work. I study and consider separate designs before I create any styles”

THIS PAGE, LEFT: HAIR BY TAKUYA MORIMOTO, BROOKS+BROOKS. MAKE-UP BY JENNIFER MIKA AVINS. STYLING BY NICOL FREEMAN. PHOTOGRAPHY BY TAKAHITO SASAKI.

“In March last year, I decided to set up my own studio with photographer Takahito Sasaki. it is so expensive to hire a studio every time you want to do a shoot; I don’t want any limitations on my creativity”

“No matter how much session and editorial work I do, my clients come first; In Japan, we say the Client is God. I also believe you should never treat work as work. It is part of my living and therefore my life”

READ ON Diaries at the ready! The It List 2014 launches in the March issue of Creative HEAD CREATIVE HEAD

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2/12/13 12:50:47

Classified

COSHH

For help with

Risk Assessment

in Salons

kind

on your hair

cute

on your wrist

The booklet “A Guide to the Health and Safety of Salon Products” is available at Alan Howard, Aston & Fincher, Capital Hair & Beauty, Sally Hair & Beauty and other good wholesalers. Or send your address and 4 unused first class stamps to:

The HBSA, Greenleaf House, 128 Darkes Lane, Potters Bar, Hertfordshire EN6 1AE

To advertise on these pages call

DAVID HAMMOND

on 020 8467 8884 or email

To become a Popband™ stockist please contact us at love@thepopband.com

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david@headmag.co.uk

04/12/2013 11:01

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4/12/13 13:46:49

Double take â&#x20AC;˘74-81_Goldwell Fashion 2

3/12/13 14:31:28

First spread Blonde girl with

Reality or illusion? Real or fake? Natural or artificial? Goldwell’s new Reallusion trend for 2014 plays with perception, creating optical illusions that only reveal their secrets at a second glance…

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Upside down

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Face to â&#x20AC;˘74-81_Goldwell Fashion 6

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face â&#x20AC;˘74-81_Goldwell Fashion 7

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Left is right â&#x20AC;˘74-81_Goldwell Fashion 8

is left

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The Goldwell Color Zoom Master Team 14, including Lisa Whiteman of Webster Whiteman, London, assisted by the winners of the Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge ’12

pirited away

Tribal tropes are twisted with an avant-garde eye to create a softly structural collection from Vatican Hairdressing

Photography by Christian Hough

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WATCH IT See the shoot in

action creativeheadmag.com

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3/12/13 14:38:08

Hair Jack Kilpatrick and Lisa Candy for Vatican Hairdressing. styling Kristina Ritchie. Make-up Inga Pivena. Models Kamila Nowak and Emelie Stenman. Assistant Irven Lewis.

A woman for all seasons

Tomboy, fashionista, girl next door, socialite â&#x20AC;&#x201C; meet the many moods of the empowered modern woman, as interpreted by Alison Dace and the Saks art Team as the brand celebrates its 40th birthday Photography by Zac Frackelton

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3/12/13 14:39:00

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3/12/13 14:39:20

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3/12/13 14:40:15

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5/12/13 17:14:10

Hair Alison Dace and the Saks Art Team. Make-up Lan Nguyen-Grealis. Styling Jane Taylor-Hayhurst. Love IT See more of the Woman collection from Saks creativeheadmag.com

â&#x20AC;˘082-089_Fashionv3 9

3/12/13 14:40:38

ENOUGH IS ENOUGH THANKS TO STATUS-DRIVEN STYLISTS AND GREEDY LANDLORDS, WE’RE AT SATURATION POINT WITH SALONS, ARGUES ERROL DOUGLAS MBE, MOST WANTED CREATIVE TALENT 2013

WHEN I STARTED MY BUSINESS 15 years ago, there was a demand for salons in London. With a limited number of high-end salons for customers to choose from, I wanted to create a brand that allowed for all hair types to be cared for at all levels. But as a business owner in 2014, I have some concerns. A large number of hairdressers only see themselves as ‘successful’ if they start their own salon – so with this attitude has naturally come a flood of salons, and many don’t have the best structures in place to be successful. Our high streets are overwhelmed with salons, sometimes even next door to each other. I have other business interests and so am not solely reliant on the business of my salon; others are not as strategic. If I was a landlord I would be concerned with over-populating an area with the same types of business. Landlords and local authorities really need to get their acts together. Landlords put pressure on themselves to rent out the space without taking into consideration how it may affect neighbouring businesses. An example would be a high street that for 10 years hosted just one salon, but now has six or even eight. It makes it difficult for these businesses to pay rent and employ the right individuals, not to mention offer a quality service to clients. I believe strongly in the entrepreneurial spirit but I also believe you can be an entrepreneur without flooding the market with new salons. Taking your knowledge of the hair world and focusing it on teaching, consulting or developing education allows a hairdresser to be able to run their own business without putting pressure on the industry or lowering standards. I would like to see more people teaching others about their success, so the industry in the UK can continue to elevate its status. Errol Douglas MBE is president of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and owner of Errol Douglas

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CREATIVE HEAD

3/12/13 14:42:38

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03/12/2013 17:06