£4.50 JULY/AUGUST 2019
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Editor’s letter
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JOIN US!
The judges have spoken – and We are dedicated to helping you build your businesses, and we are thrilled to have revealed a common concern we hear at Salon Smart is the march of selfCreative HEAD’s Most employment: how can we keep stylists from going freelance, or compete Wanted and The It List with salons offering chair rental? Couple that with the revelation from the finalists 2019! The Grand NHF/NBF that, for the first time, more than half of hairdressers are freelancers, Final is going to be epic – and it’s clear that the world as we know it is shifting. The pull is obvious but the see who’ll be tussling for challenges are also there – no holiday pay, managing your own taxes, finding your a trophy from page 28. own clients. And with HMRC looking closely at businesses using freelancers to see On 15 July, The Coterie: if they are following the law (Uber is a case in point), it’s only a matter of time before In Session returns – this they start casting an eye over hairdressing. It’s a new world, which is why we’re not time with Leigh Keates only taking an in-depth look at the state of employment in UK hairdressing right and Lisa Farrall taking now (page 60), but also unveiling SELF/STYLED on creativeheadmag.com. This is to the set to deliver live a new hub for indie hairdressers and salon managers with self-employed stylists, styling and conversation. to help with daily challenges and long-term concerns. SELF/STYLED will See page 32 for all the be there for anyone feeling alone, in need of help and education. Creative details. Last but not least, HEAD will always champion salons, but we know hairdressing today is tickets are shifting for Salon a complex landscape. Let’s navigate it together… Smart in Ireland, taking place in Dublin on Sunday 3 November. Don’t miss out on a day of truly transformative business Amanda Nottage networking, we have all you need Editor to know from page 36.
amanda@alfol.co.uk
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July/August
WHAT’S INSIDE
HOW WE WORK NOW FASHION
Ruffians’ Richard Tucker delivers a distinctly ’90s vibe
60
ON THE COVER Sinéad Kelly London, L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2019 winner
The rise in self-employment means old rules are changing – we investigate the landscape of hairdressing careers
84 SCENE
FREE INSID E
MISTER QUARTERLY
L’Oréal Professionnel celebrates Graduate Fashion Week and the Central Saint Martins BA show
JU LY U UG /A EMBER 2019 SEPT ST/
MISTER QUARTERLY
EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
DEPUTY EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
ART DIRECTOR
DIGITAL ASSISTANT
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
DIGITAL DESIGNER
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA NICK JABBAL EVA VESTMANN
ADAM WOOD
ANNA SAMSON KELSEY DRING
DAVID HAMMOND JENNY BROOKS
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
ALISON ROWLEY
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WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
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EXPECT
MORE EXPERIENCE THE
DIAMOND STANDARD IN HAIR EXTENSIONS
We procure and process our own hair to guarantee its origin, quality and provenance. Create without compromise with Richy. 100% DOUBLE-DRAWN RUSSIAN HAIR INVISIBLE TAPE ATTACHMENTS NO SILICONS
Call +44 (0) 203 092 3345 askrichy@richyhairuk.com
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John Vial
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
MORE THAN HALF of UK hairdressers are now self-employed, which is why Creative HEAD is unveiling a new digital hub of information for independent stylists. SELF/STYLED will feature everything from advice on setting up your own business and useful apps to keep yourself organised, through to fresh product stories and exclusive deals. You can also find Real Talk, first-hand experiences of the ups and downs of freelance life. SELF/STYLED offers an interactive community for freelancers including Be Scene, a calendar full of events and education opportunities; and The Gig List, a message board where people can advertise for stylists and assistants, models, photographers, available chairs to rent and build ties with other freelance artists. Show us how you are bossing freelance life on social media with the hashtag #CHSelfStyled for the chance to be featured on the site. SELF/STYLED launches on 4 July at creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled
Ken O’Rourke
SELF/STYLED
Lisa Oxenham and Syd Hayes
WELCOME TO
A-Listers judge Most Wanted and The It List THERE WAS A host of famous and renowned faces at this year’s judging sessions for the Most Wanted and The It List. Industry legends and former award winners including Leigh Keates, John Vial and Syd Hayes teamed up with other heavyweights, including Marie Claire’s Lisa Oxenham and Theresa Yee from trend forecaster WGSN, to whittle down the record number of entries to our finalist line-up of 105 names. For 2019, all Most Wanted categories and The It List were open to Irish competitors, while two new Most Wanted categories were introduced with Best New Boutique Salon and Independent Stylist. The Grand Final takes place on Monday 2 September at the incredible Printworks, the former home of newspapers such as the London Evening Standard. See who made the final shortlists from page 28!
To celebrate 15 years of supporting breast cancer charities, ghd has teamed up with mastectomy tattoo artist David Allen for the stunning Ink on Pink collection. £10 from each sale will go to Breast Cancer Now. ghdhair.com
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World leading ethical hair extensions To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
#CHedit MY months
AHEAD What July and August have in store for... GAVIN MILLS
BAD APPLE HAIR
Meet the #SKPcollective The #SKPcollective from Schwarzkopf Professional has revealed the 12 members to make up the group for 2019/2020, which helps stylists and salons promote their skills and business offerings via social media. They will receive bespoke training focused on how best to utilise social media and a year’s worth of content generation opportunities including editorial shoots and backstage at top hair shows. After the success of the inaugural 2018 crew, five of the original members stay on as part of the #SKPcollective and are joined by a further seven. The members are, pictured above from left: Matt Surplice from Spring is in the Hair; Sam Marais of Urban Hair; Chris Tranter from Ed & Co; Christopher Laird of Hair by Christopher Laird; Rebecca Jacques from Bad Apple Hair; Irfan Sumbul of Choppy Cuts; Justin Mackland from Ishoka; Alix Maher of Lynda Maher Hair Studios; Dan Mewies from Mewies & Co; Mimi Kobayashi of Billi Currie; Mat Watt from Mathew Watt and Austen Thompson of Austen Thompson Hair.
13 per cent
of UK consumers are interested in dry-use soap, bath and shower products, such as shampoo bars, as the world’s water crisis becomes a more critical concern, according to Mintel. The company added that as the global population is slated to reach 10.2 billion by 2050, the demand for water could outpace supply.
We’re opening a new salon in Sutton Coldfield, which takes our salon portfolio into double digits. I’m working with the Bad Apple Hair Art Team on our latest Men’s collection alongside our new blow-dry menu. I will be launching a brand-new Finishing School programme at the Bad Apple Hair Academy as well.
KIERON PRICE
RAW IMAGE BARBERSHOP
I’ll start July by celebrating the third anniversary of the barber shop. We’re now expanding and looking for a sixth staff member to join. I’m also working on MVRCK by Mitch, travelling with John Mosley and the team to Liverpool, Northampton, Sussex and Wales to spread the word!
THE A-TEAM ASSEMBLES
Saks has announced the line-up for its new A-Team, a year-long education programme led by creative director Luke Pluckrose and the Saks Art Team. The group started the year with a ‘styling through the decades’ session at Saks Academy Darlington with Sarah Clarke-Lees, the Saks Art Team colour director. Getting creative for 2019 to 2020 are, pictured from left: Sean Turnbull (Yarm); Charlotte Lewington (Yarm); Leonie Winter (Guisborough); Stacey Hallam (Doncaster); Ashleigh Mortimer (York); Lucy Coles (Lincoln); Jessica Smith (Hexham); Hanna Farquhar (Aberdeen); Sienna Coyle (Northallerton) and Skye Kelly (Sedbury Hall).
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Conscious Hair & Beauty
by Phorest Salon Software Hear from the experts on how to put sustainability & wellness at the top of your salon’s agenda.
Inspiration & Education Expert advice: Dr Denise Baden, Associate Professor at Southampton Business School,
specialises in sustainability in salons.
Mental health & salon life: Sam Pearce, Founder of The Potting Shed Spa, West Yorkshire. Sustainability success stories: Jennie Lawson Founder of Mimosa Beauty, Essex. More speakers and information to be announced.
Venue
Tickets
Date & Time
OXO2, Level Two, Oxo Tower
For tickets & information,
Wharf, Bargehouse Street
please go to http://bit.ly/Phorest
Sunday
Southbank, London
Tickets from ÂŁ100.00 +VAT
18th August 2019
SE1 9PH
per ticket
www.phorest.com #letsgrow
9:30am - 2:00pm
Beauty means business We work in an industry worth £28.4 billion, yet it’s often dismissed as trivial. Now a landmark report from the British Beauty Council is set to give our sector a serious makeover THE UK BEAUTY INDUSTRY – of which hair, with an annual turnover of £6.3bn, is by far the most valuable sector – is one of the most vibrant business communities in this country and a world-leader in skills and education. So why is it rarely promoted as a positive career choice for school leavers? As we have debated regularly at Salon Smart, it is time for the industry to be taken seriously. Much more needs to be done to nurture it, drive our business forward and influence valuable growth for the UK economy. Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock is co-founder of the British Beauty Council, a new and independent industry body that has been set up to represent all areas of the beauty industry and ensure that it is recognised and valued at all levels – by government, the wider economy, and by consumers. “It’s a question of raising our profile, improving our reputation and engaging with policy-makers and people who make decisions about education funding, so that we can attract the best people into our industry,” she says. The Council’s first step has been to establish the real value of UK beauty. “Our industry has never been adequately defined, nor its contribution to the UK economy robustly valued,” continues Catherine. “This omission has had real consequences – not least, limiting our sector’s impact.” The Council’s ‘Value of Beauty’ report, prepared by experts at Oxford Economics, quantifies the total contribution made by the beauty industry to the UK economy in 2018. Among the key findings, it shows that UK beauty made a total contribution to GDP worth £28.4 billion – equivalent to 1.3 per cent of the country’s total GDP – and directly employed 370,200 people, with a further 220,300 jobs being supported through its supply chain and wage-related consumer spending contributions. Just as importantly, the beauty industry supported £7 billion in UK tax revenues last year – more than half of which was paid directly by the beauty industry and those employed in it.
The report confirms that hairdressing is the most powerful and valuable force within beauty by far. It’s responsible for 33 per cent of all jobs in the industry and also accounts for the largest share of education and skills training. This commitment to developing talent and building the skill-sets of its employees underlines hairdressing’s importance to UK productivity – both now and into the future. ‘Value of Beauty’ also spotlights the mechanics behind UK beauty today, in every sector from creative and technical abilities in hair salons and spas to the disciplines of product manufacturing, branding, design and marketing, the science behind product retail, the skills of beauty journalism and blogging, the creative process of new product conception, and more. “Accurate communication of the size of the UK beauty industry is essential to gaining traction with policymakers,” says Catherine. “We need to transform traditional establishment perceptions of our industry, and numbers are key to this. The fact that we are bigger than the car industry, for example, is going to make some people sit up and listen.” The report will now be an important tool to assist the British Beauty Council with its advocacy. Says British Beauty Council chief executive Millie Kendall: “We hope to promote the industry to business leaders to ensure investment into our sector is fluid. We feel that by bringing together the beauty industry and its various sectors, we can look to establish that we are a creative industry that is diverse and inclusive and one that can be sustainable as automation takes over jobs in other sectors.”
DOWNLOAD THE ‘VALUE OF BEAUTY’ REPORT FREE OF CHARGE FROM 18 JULY AT BRITISHBEAUTYCOUNCIL.COM
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#CHedit There are currently
2,768
£28.4bn
UK digital influencers with a presence in beauty
£6.3bn
the total amount the beauty industry contributed to the UK economy last year
Beauty stores and salons are bolstering British high streets, opening
the amount spent on hair services in 2018. As a country, we spend more on hair services than any other beauty treatment
1,225
locations last year
THE UK BEAUTY INDUSTRY
IN NUMBERS
65,550
the number of people who achieved beautyrelated qualifications last year
The beauty industry supports
In 2018 the beauty industry contributed
£7bn
We spent
£3.2bn
on cosmetics last year
in tax – equivalent to 250,000 nurses’ and midwives’ salaries
600,000 jobs 1 in every
60 jobs in the UK is in the beauty industry
CREATIVE HEAD
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Grab these super-sized twolitre bottles of Olaplex’s No.4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo and No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner from Salon Services – they’re perfect for the backwash.
The brainchild of Australian photographer Andrew O’Toole and four-time Australian Hairdresser of the Year Joey Scandizzo, Eleven Australia is an affordable, simple, easy to understand range that will be a flagship line for new distributor Wonderful Brands.
RRP FROM £15 023 9400 3660 wonderful-brands.com
RRP FROM £17.14 020 7391 7440 revlonprofessional.com
SALON PRICE £61.81 EACH 0330 1231907 salon-services.com
For the eco-conscious client, the new RESCUE My. Hair Shampoo Bars are a green dream. They are biodegradable, vegan and free from silicones, palm oils and animal testing, while offering a deep-clean with natural oils and plant extracts.
The sea doesn’t have to be bad for your hair! The EKSperience Sun Pro collection harnesses nutrient-rich algae and pure sea water for soft, beautiful hair. The Marine Protective Cream is sure to be a winner.
Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
Clients are increasingly asking questions about where products come from, and are suspicious of online influencer reviews. Authentic Beauty Concept aims to be the antithesis of all of that fake news, offering a real alternative for those who want pure formulas, a mindful experience and a natural approach. It has four ranges for coloured, fine, damaged and dry hair, and nine styling products that avoid synthetic ingredients such as mineral oil, parabens and silicones. So for anyone in the chair embracing the ‘less quantity, more quality’ approach to life, this might be the range they’ve been searching for. RRP FROM £23.15 0800 526741 authenticbeautyconcept.com
RRP £13.95 EACH 07479 029827
From drying to styling, heated tools cause havoc on natural hair and extensions. This Great Lengths Heat Protection Spray boasts Pro Keratin to repair it.
RRP £14.95 0114 2781292 greatlengthshair.co.uk
Clients want long and strong hair… AND be confident heat-styling it? Tell them about new Kérastase Résistance Extentioniste Thermique nourishing blow-dry cream.
RRP £23.80
0845 6000122
my-haircare.com
kerastase.co.uk
Ombre? Tick. Colourful? Tick. A dream to use on beach-swept snarls and pool-wet hair? TICK. The limited edition Textured Mermaid Compact Stylers might be our favourite Tangle Teezers yet.
RRP £13.50
020 7738 4458 tangleteezer.com
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Love milk_shake’s leave-in conditioning foam Whipped Cream? Then prepare for the arrival of its seven colour editions…
RRP £10.99 EACH 01392 365177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk
The BLONDME Detoxifying System is Schwarzkopf Professional’s first blonde recovery regime to revive and protect hair in three easy steps.
RRP FROM £15.20 0800 526741 schwarzkopfpro.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit
STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Prepare to shake up your colour retail in a big way! The new evo fab pro system is here to sweep away all of the uncertainty and poor colour care of the past. You can breathe fresh life into hair with an exact colour cocktail to match your hard work in the salon, bespoke to each and every client colour client who sits in your chair. Blend an almost limitless palette of colours with a deeply conditioning treatment base, and have your clients clamouring for more – more colour, more care, more personality.
RRP £30
0800 9554285 evohair.co.uk
... h c t a w o t O ne
Often, the most innovative and relevant hair products in a kitbag are the ones that have, at some point along the R&D journey, seen hairdressers getting stuck in to test if they’re up to the task. With TAOH – that’s The Art Of Hair by the way – you know the line-up has come from the mind of one of the UK’s most respected (and busiest) stylists. Bruno Marc Giamattei, creator and designer of TAOH as well as one of the founders of the Marc Antoni salon group, has devised the 10-strong range with the end consumer in mind, too. The shampoo, conditioner and masks are sulphate- and paraben-free, and the brand has taken a stance against animal testing of any kind. Throughout the whole creation process, testing and feedback came from the stylists and clients in his salons. The capsule collection has all the essentials, with sleek, clean and minimal packaging to give it a gender-neutral edge and appeal to everyone in your chair. The Hydrate and Volume care lines boast the TAOH moisture complex to help keep hair strong and to fight
CREATIVE HEAD
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TAOH
colour loss, while its simply named Oil is a standout, blending argan, macadamia and kukui oils to promote scalp health and hair growth while preventing split-ends and calming frizz and tangles. And alongside the products you can also access TAOH training via the Marc Antoni Artistic Team, bringing bespoke education to salons and teams that cover classic cutting, barbering, session styling, colour, hair up, business coaching and even awards mentoring. The Art of Hair? It’s the art of pretty much everything you need to develop a successful career, frankly, with beautiful hair too.
RRP FROM £17 01491 412270 taoh.co.uk
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#CHedit
Inside story HERSHESONS AT HARVEY NICHOLS LONDON
Hot on the heels of the game-changing flagship salon on London’s Berners Street comes a makeover for Hershesons’ iconic Harvey Nichols venue. The mission? To host clients in spaces that reflect how we live, work and play today. In this New York-style loft setting you’ll find The Hershesons Collective, with influential stylists and colourists from around the globe visiting for short residencies, meaning clients can see names including Alex Brown, Jenny Cho and Lena Ott. A new ready-to-wear and bespoke wig service features for clients, Hershesons Entourage sees VIP rooms equipped with a beauty squad and the bespoke Farm Girl cafe serves honest, healthy food inspired by the Australian cafe culture. “In continuing our mission to shake things up, we worked with designers Racheline Michaels and gpstudio to create a space that’s cool, fresh, modern and luxe – with a home-from-home feel clients will never want to leave,” explains creative director, Luke Hersheson. We’ll be moving in pronto...
HOT BUYS
now open
DIAMOND JUBILEE
Over its incredible 60 years Takara Belmont has regularly unveiled innovations – and we’re saluting what might just be the world’s most luxurious shampoo system, Yume. It cocoons clients in comfort and gives salons the chance to expand their service menu to include VIP treatments. From £7,995 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk
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DUCK & DRY MAYFAIR
Exposed brick walls, natural light, a decorative birdcage and a prosecco bar makes the latest Duck & Dry a memorable destination for clients.
CREATIVE HEAD
20/06/2019 13:30
Give time to space, master stillness. Zen Series.
THE BUSINESS EDIT
ABIGAIL BOOTLAND RICHY HAIR EXTENSIONS
WHAT MAKES RICHY HAIR EXTENSIONS DIFFERENT? We procure, process and market all our own hair, which is ethically sourced across Europe. We guarantee its provenance, quality and ethicality from the moment we source it, to the moment it graces your client’s hair. We hand-select the finest, healthiest virgin hair; this means it has never been coloured, permed or processed in any way. This natural state ensures its condition and health.
WHAT ARE THE PRODUCTS STYLISTS SHOULD KNOW? Richy Stickees are ultralight, versatile and easily attached. Using medicalgrade invisible tape, that’s non-allergenic and water- and humidity-proof, Stickees transform length, colour and colour effects in 30 minutes. There’s no heat involved, just a gentle application that delivers instant, long-lasting glamour. Richy Keratips offer a keratin-based micro-tip bond that seamlessly attaches extensions for great results.
WHAT’S YOUR TOP TIP FOR BOOSTING EXTENSIONS SERVICES IN SALON? Learn how to maximise the value of your extensions service through education and how to promote them effectively. Extensions add a new creative and commercial dimension to your salon and return a significant boost to turnover and profit.
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HOW TO WORK WITH INFLUENCERS NOW MORE THAN EVER, potential clients are looking online to find out where to go for their hair needs. And, as a result, salons are working with influencers on Instagram who can shout about their services. But what are the real business benefits, and how do you find the right blogger to partner up with? “We find that investing in fresh ways of marketing like this delivers not only a better return in terms of cost versus booking conversions, but also aligns nicely with our brand image as a forward-thinking salon group,” explains Anna Mackew, PR and marketing manager at HOB Salons. “It allows us to be more relatable to our clients, plus it’s one of the most effective ways of connecting with the younger generation.” According to Jack Howard at Paul Edmonds, who works extensively with Instagrammers, the benefits are numerous. “You can get great content for your feed and showcase your work without having to pay for models,” he says. “And you get organic reach that brings in new bookings. Some influencers have followers who really do take their recommendations, so if you work with them you can really put bums on seats.” Before you opt to work with anyone, doing research is key, says Elena Lavagni, owner of Neville Hair & Beauty. “The amount of followers isn’t always a good way of establishing if the influencer is right for your salon. We always pride ourselves in taking
quality over quantity when it comes to ambassadors,” she explains. If you don’t feel confident reaching out to influencers yourself, sometimes the brands you work with can help. “I work closely with Great Lengths on influencer activity,” says Great Lengths-certified stylist Hadley Yates at Hershesons. “It sends opportunities to me and supports me on jobs I’ve secured. It’s good for the salon’s business and for me as a stylist as it helps get my name out there.” Jack Howard believes that it’s worth considering a few smaller influencers who are more likely to take the time to talk to their followers. “It’s better to go for five or 10 local micro influencers who are engaged with their followers and relevant to your brand then it is to chase the macro influencers,” he advises. Once you’ve found an influencer that ticks all the boxes, make sure that both sides are transparent about what this exchange will involve with regards to posts, tags, and recurring services. “Manage expectations – if you don’t have some kind of agreement in place or haven’t provided the influencer with the correct information for tagging, then you can’t complain when they don’t do something,” adds Hadley. “If it’s clear from the start what is expected of the influencer and they agree, then you both know exactly what service you are providing and what you are receiving in return.”
CHANTELLE HUSSEIN
UNBEWEAVABLE HAIR, COLCHESTER “When the singer Sam Harvey got in touch, it was clear from her page and the things she promoted that she was genuine, and we’ve been working together for more than three years. I also work with Rendall Tyga Coleby and both of them have increased my following by about 7,000. We track the number of bookings made for my Remi Cachet extensions where people mention Sam or Rendall, so I know the collaboration is working for my business. You shouldn’t agree to a deal with influencers who jump around from brand to brand just to get things for free, and you should not agree to a deal without any terms and conditions. Things that need to be covered in an agreement are simple – the number of posts and mentions, exclusivity and exactly what they can say.”
CREATIVE HEAD
20/06/2019 13:31
#BusinessEdit
BUSINESS BUILDER H TEAC ME!
All prices listed are exclusive of VAT
Heat, humidity and holiday sun might do wonders for the soul, but they can wreak havoc on hair and skin. Help clients stay radiant under the rays by stocking up your retail area with SPF protected goodies that customers can grab on the way out, such as Skintruth’s SPF 15 Moisturiser (£10.59 exc. VAT).
Get clued up on the latest products and techniques needed to provide your clients with the perfect summer spray-tan with White to Brown’s Professional Spray Tanning course (£50 exc. VAT).
THE SERVICE STATION In association with
ASK ME ANYTHING THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE EVERY BRANCH OF SALON SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!
Rena Parrock
National colour specialist at Salon Services Q: How do I make sure that I choose the right toners? A: “When it comes to
Innovative launches, expert advice and business boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!
ON RIGHT NOW Salon Services is thrilled to announce that from July it will be expanding its Maria Nila range to include two new bleaches – ideal to cater for all of your vegan and vegetarian clients. Keep an eye on Salon Services’ social accounts for more info!
WELL-GROOMED BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT
Strong summer sun and rising heat can dry out facial hair, leaving it looking and feeling dull and brittle. Remember to talk to clients about the importance of conditioning beards and stubble and be sure to make product suggestions. We particularly love products such as Osmo Beard Complex Intense Conditioning Oil (£8.99 exc. VAT).
hair toners, it may sound obvious but no single colour fits everyone. Depending on the shade, the undertones of colour-treated hair may appear yellow, orange, red, blue or green. To choose the right toner to colour correct, select the shade opposite the overtone on the colour wheel – this will help neutralise the undesired tones. And remember: to elongate and maximise the effect of the toner at home, hair masks can be used to ensure the hair stays glossy and healthy between salon appointments. I particularly like the Lômé Paris Colour Mask (£8.99 exc. VAT), which is great for nourishing and protecting coloured hair.”
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM CREATIVE HEAD
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#BusinessEdit
KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
“Our biggest challenge is recruiting or keeping team members due to self-employment. As a company, we offer a competitive commission scheme, lots of training, shoots, a pension scheme and fun events. We’ve only ever been or wanted to be an employed salon, but do we now have to give in to the pressure?” TERRY BOLDERO AND CAROLINE FILBY, BOLDERO & FILBY
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
A massive question, Terry! I’m a firm believer in the employment model – what follows is my personal opinion and I appreciate that many may disagree with me. First, there is a moral issue that cannot be overlooked. If salons and stylists are taking the self-employed option to reduce the amount of taxes being paid, in any of the various forms, then sooner or later the HMRC spotlight is bound to fall on the revenue received from our industry. I would welcome this as maybe then an equal playing field could be created for all. At the moment that is far from the case. The issue here is the lack of policing of the HMRC guidelines that exist for the self-employed model. Currently, for a stylist to be seen as self-employed, the salon they operate in cannot control the hours they work, the prices they charge, the products they use, the clients they serve, the holidays they take, their education and skill levels, nor their culture. Clients also need to be made aware of the fact that they are being served by a self-employed stylist and that any complaints
TO READ MORE FROM TERRY AND CAROLINE TURN TO PAGE 62
or other issues relating to the service they receive are the responsibility of the stylist and not the salon. I believe that in most of the salons operating a self-employed model this is far from the reality! You only need to read the conversations on social media sites to realise this. I regularly see salon owners with self-employed stylists using the words, “team” and “staff” and yet to be self-employed means you are on nobody’s team nor are you anyone’s staff. I see owners asking advice on what to do about issues they have with self-employed stylists and yet the fact is they have little or no control over those stylists at all. Doing so contravenes the very concept of self-employment. Technically you can’t even provide any education to a selfemployed stylist unless they pay you to do so. There could also be, as yet unchallenged, issues relating to GDPR and who actually owns the client data, who controls that data and what happens to it if a self-employed stylist moves on. So, why do I believe in the employed model? Because I believe in creating brands that can grow, cultures to be proud of, careers and continuous education for professional teams of people that benefit from the security of being employed by a solid and profitable business. Salon owners need to rethink the employment packages they offer. The underlying challenge we have in our industry is pricing. To employ the right people you need to offer the right rewards. To offer the right rewards you need to charge the right prices. To charge the right prices you need to offer an amazing guest experience. To offer an amazing guest experience you need to employ the right people. And so it goes, round and round…
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag 24
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/06/2019 13:32
3·6·5 Successful Business Coaching for Salons
Are you a
Salon Owner?
Finding it harder and harder to pull in new clients and recruit the right team? In times of change it is important to plan ahead. With many uncertainties facing the industry and economy in 2019, 3·6·5 can help to point you in the right direction. 3·6·5 can provide your salon with successful business coaching to help promote a long-term, sustainable future for your business.
Call us on: 0845 659 0015 www.365SalonEducation.com Find us: @365SalonEducation
AD1406 3.6.5 Creative Head Nov/Dec Issue SP.indd 1
08/10/2018 16:54
#BusinessEdit
MORE WAGE RISES ‘UNAFFORDABLE’ BRITS SHARE SECRETS WITH STYLISTS HAIRDRESSERS AND BEAUTY therapists are trusted with the most intimate details of their clients’ lives, a new survey has found, with up to 10 million Brits sharing secrets they wouldn’t tell anyone else. The survey, carried out by the finance company Liberis, revealed that more than 40 per cent said they have an especially good relationship with their hairdresser or beauty therapist and over a quarter have been loyal to them for more than five years – which may explain why they’re happy to open up in the salon. These findings were confirmed in a poll of 2,000 women carried out by Regis. One in 20 of the women said they had discussed cheating on a husband or partner with their hairdresser, and 15 per cent said they had made a big life decision following a conversation with their hairdresser.
CASH IS KING FOR TIPS LEAVE TIPS IN cash and not by card is the message from a recent survey of NHF/NBF members. “Most salons are reluctant to accept tips by card as it makes sorting out the payroll more complicated,” explained NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “This is because tax has to be paid on tips paid via card. The solution for many salons is to ask clients to leave cash tips, which can be directly passed to staff. Sorting out the tax is then the employee’s responsibility rather than the salon’s.” A new law is planned that will require all tips to be passed onto staff in full. “We already know our members support this move,” said Hilary. “However, it’s important for the new rules to be user-friendly for small businesses.” Go to nhf.info/tipping for a detailed fact sheet
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NEARLY HALF (45 per cent) of NHF/NBF members have said they could not afford further rises to the National Living Wage (NLW). The NHF/NBF survey also found that more than a quarter (27 per cent) of members believe that future increases should be slowed down, and 19 per cent felt that increases should be in line with inflation. NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “The NLW, which must be paid to over-25s, is expected to increase from £8.21 to £8.67 in April 2020. Up to 60 per cent of business costs are wage-related, yet the government is considering further large rises beyond 2020 up to £9.61 an hour, and also reducing the age when people qualify for the NLW, though the timescales are not yet clear. In addition, the Labour Party is proposing a wage of £10 per hour for everyone, including 16 to 17 year olds, should it come into government. We believe it’s time to slow down minimum wage rises while we assess the impact of Brexit and give salons the chance to recover from a series of steep wage rises.” Discover more at nhf.info/wage-survey
Ian Egerton is new NHF/NBF president IAN EGERTON (PICTURED) IS the new president of the NHF/NBF, replacing outgoing president Agnes Leonard. Ian has been running The Stress Exchange hair, beauty and wellness business for 17 years so brings a wealth of knowledge and experience to the presidency. He will work closely with the new vice-president Steven Scarr and NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall to help NHF/NBF members build successful and profitable businesses. “A huge thank you to our outgoing president Agnes Leonard who contributed so much during her time in the role,” said Ian. “I have championed the NHF/NBF ever since I became a member in 2002 so I couldn’t be prouder that I’m now leading the way in supporting other business owners. I can’t wait to see what the future has in store.” Find out more about the new president at nhf.info/president
CREATIVE HEAD
19/06/2019 16:48
#BusinessEdit
MISSION CONTROL
PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON
Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
in association with Phorest and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel AFTER EVERY ISSUE of Creative HEAD we speak to our Reader Panel to ask what business is like for them right now. In the first of a new series, in partnership with Phorest Salon Software, we combine the results from our Reader Panel with research compiled by Phorest using its client base of salons from across the UK, to gauge the landscape and discuss best practice when it comes to everyday issues and headaches. Let’s start with the bane of many a salon owner – clients who don’t show up.
HOW DO YOU COMPARE?
PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES
10.3%
How was business in May compared with April?
WORSE 15%
THE SAME 31%
BETTER 54%
How was business in May compared with May last year
THE SAME 7%
£58.60
BETTER 70%
THE MISSION: BEATING NO SHOWS
46%
of salons charge for no-shows
Salons experience an average of
2.3
no-shows a week
62%
of salons offer a loyalty scheme
“We don’t charge for the first no-show because we understand life can get in the way, but if it happens a second time then there is a deposit to pay before they can get another appointment, which will be lost if they fail to show again” EMMA SIMMONS AT SALON 54
50% OF CLIENTS CHARGED FOR A NO-SHOW COME BACK TO THE SALON, WHILE ONLY 37% OF NOT CHARGED CLIENTS DO
WORSE 23%
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN MAY (EXC. VAT)
DID YOU KNOW…
YOUR CLIENTS ARE MORE LIKELY TO REBOOK WITH YOU IF YOU CHARGE FOR A NO-SHOW?
WE’VE ALL BEEN there: a mis-managed week, a slip of the mind, perhaps even a family emergency. No-shows are an unfortunate but real part of life for your clients, and as a salon owner, knowing how to deal with an unexpected gap in your calendar – and day’s takings – can be a conundrum. For many, charging the client for a no-show can pose two problems: could it damage the relationship and impact their decisions in the future? And how will you get them to pay, even if you want them to? Here’s where you might be surprised: our most recent research showed that clients who were charged by their salon for a no-show were 13 per cent more likely to rebook in the future. Why? Because by charging for a service, salons show they know their value, that they’re worth turning up for. It also clears the customer’s conscience – no need to slink away to a competitor for fear of being reprimanded next time! As for problem number two… when you adopt an online booking system with Phorest Salon Software customers give their card details on booking, which are then held until the time of the appointment, and it also lets them know that there is a no-show charge policy in place. So you can automatically take anything from 0 per cent to 100 per cent of the cost at your own discretion. Take control of your no-shows and make them work for your business, rather than against it. Shauna O’Halloran is content & marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software. Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware 27
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20/06/2019 16:50
TEAM 2019 FINALISTS BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON
For a new small salon with a unique sense of style
2019
douce, Cambridge/London Luis & Cos, London Mayfive, London Re-Invention House, Louth Rose & Wild, London
BEST SALON TEAM For salon teamwork at its best
Hare & Bone, London (Great Titchfield Street) Lloyds Hair, Waterford Review, Petersfield Salon 54, Thirsk The Box, London
BEST LOCAL SALON
For a salon that best serves its local community
APPLAUSE, APPLAUSE! CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 75 HAIR PROS OPERATING AT THE TOP OF THEIR GAME – MEET CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED FINALISTS 2019!
WANTED CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOST 9 @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT1
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Linton & Mac, Aberdeen Millie Jones Hair, Haslemere RAW, Dartford Sarai Hair and Beauty, Crowthorne SliderCuts, London
BEST NEW SALON
For a new or revamped salon that turns heads
Bad Apple Hair, Stratford-upon-Avon Gatsby & Miller, Amersham Gina Conway Aveda, London (Wimbledon) Kennaland, London Sally Montague Hair Group, Ashbourne
BEST SALON EXPERIENCE For a salon that delivers top customer service
Edward James London, London (Clapham) Michael Van Clarke, London Sally Montague Hair Group, Ashbourne STIL, London The Box, London
19/06/2019 16:43
INDIVIDUAL 2019 FINALISTS INDEPENDENT STYLIST
HAIR TREND
For a stylist looking after clients while busy building ‘Brand Me’
For the best on-trend image of the year
Louis Byrne Ashleigh Hodges Paula McCash Cinta Miller Kim Rance
Errol Douglas MBE, Errol Douglas Philipp Haug, Toni&Guy Rory Mason, Ashley Gamble Desmond Murray, Atherton Cox James Earnshaw, Bad Apple Hair
MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST
AWARD FOR INNOVATION
For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating stand-out work in men’s hair
Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved a success for the salon business or the industry at large
Charlie Cullen, The Lounge Soho Darren Fowler, Fowler35 James Beaumont, Allure Hair Kevin Luchmun, Kevin Luchmun Mikey Pearson, Manifesto
Phil Benton for douce Tom Chapman for The Lions Barber Collective Simon Harris for My Salon Manager Sophia Hilton for Not Another Academy KT Williams and CODE for Cut Out The Stigma
CREATIVE TALENT
For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise
SESSION STYLIST
For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion Jack Howard, Paul Edmonds Zoë Irwin, John Frieda Salons Desmond Murray, Atherton Cox Indira Schauwecker, Toni&Guy Angelo Vallillo, DNA Artspace
BUSINESS THINKER
For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business Paul Fitzgerald, PR Hair Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon Jennifer Linton and Joanna MacDonald, Linton & Mac Gavin Mills, Bad Apple Hair Mark Woolley, Electric Hairdressing
COLOUR EXPERT
For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise
Sarah Black, Linton & Mac Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon Jack Howard, Paul Edmonds Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson Chris Williams, Rush Hair
026-029_MW_v2JA.indd 2
MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST THE GRAND FINAL
02/09/19
PRINTWORKS, LONDON
HOSTED BY AISLING BEA Syd Hayes Larry King Adam Reed Eugene Souleiman Anthony Turner
HAIR ICON
SWAOITILNGDLISOT ONULYT CALL 01434 610940
For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2019
HIT PLAY >
Sally Brooks Nicola Clarke Errol Douglas MBE Sophia Hilton Zoë Irwin Sam McKnight Adam Reed Eugene Souleiman Anthony Turner Josh Wood
2019
event
19/06/2019 16:43
2019 THE RISING STAR
FOR A YOUNG SALON ASSISTANT WHO IS ENTHUSIASTIC, HARDWORKING AND FAST IMPROVING – A NEW TEAM STAR!
THEY’VE GOT IT! LADIES AND GENTS, WE’RE THRILLED TO INTRODUCE HAIRDRESSING’S MOST EXCITING YOUNG TALENTS - ALL AGED 30 OR UNDER. MEET CREATIVE HEAD’S THE IT LIST FINALISTS 2019!
event
Fiona Hand, Davey Davey Callum McDonald, Ruffians Luke Daniel Roberts, Errol Douglas Roman Sys, Trevor Sorbie Elizabeth Williams, KH Hair
THE FASHIONISTA FOR A YOUNG STYLIST MAKING A MARK IN SESSION CIRCLES
Lauren Bell, Haringtons Soho Jordan Garrett, Hershesons Tom Gilling, Taylor Taylor London Chad Maxwell Shelley Sumner
THE ENTREPRENEUR FOR A YOUNG SALON OWNER WHO HAS CREATED AN EXCITING AND SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS
Katie Allan, Mayfive Jak Bakewell, Re-Invention House Jennifer Linton, Linton & Mac Kyle Ross, Sovereign Grooming Ricky Walters, Salon64
LIST CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�THEIT 9 �CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT1
026-029_MW_v2JA.indd 3
19/06/2019 09:45
FINALISTS THE VISIONARY
FOR A YOUNG STYLIST OR TECHNICIAN WHO IS PUSHING CREATIVE BOUNDARIES
Jamie Benny, Hare & Bone Amelia Evans, Hare & Bone Ashleigh Hodges Shelley Sumner Dylan McConnachie, Live True London
MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST THE GRAND FINAL
THE IT GUY
PRINTWORKS, LONDON
02/09/19
FOR A YOUNG MALE HAIRDRESSING PROFESSIONAL EXCELLING IN MULTIPLE AREAS OF THEIR WORK AND DESTINED FOR GREATNESS
HOSTED BY AISLING BEA
Jamie Benny, Hare & Bone James Earnshaw, Bad Apple Hair Elliot Forbes Jordan Massarella, Nashwhite The Hair Bros (Nick Latham & Seรกn Paul Nother), Hershesons
SWAOITILNGDLISOT ONULYT
AISLING BEA
CALL 01434 610940
THE IT GIRL
FOR A YOUNG FEMALE HAIRDRESSING PROFESSIONAL EXCELLING IN MULTIPLE AREAS OF THEIR WORK AND DESTINED FOR GREATNESS
Sarah Black, Linton & Mac Jordanna Cobella, Cobella Katy Grimshaw, Spectrum One Charlotte Roberts, The Boutique Atelier Harriet Rose Stokes, Not Another Salon 2019
event
026-029_MW_v2JA.indd 4
19/06/2019 09:45
IN SESSION
LEIGH KEATES CONVERSATION & LIVE ON-SET STYLING
HOST: SOPHIE QURESHI 032-033_CoterieJuly.indd 1
MONDAY 15 JULY 2019 7PM UNTIL 10PM, LONDON
19/06/2019 09:47
& LISA FARRALL CLUB g.com/club
creativeheadma
JOIN NOW! TURN THE PAGE
032-033_CoterieJuly.indd 2
SINGLE TICKET £30
ONLY £20 FOR CLUB MEMBERS!
BUY ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie OR CALL 01434 610416 Includes canapés on arrival, drinks all evening and a gift from BaByliss PRO
19/06/2019 09:48
CLUB club
.com/ g a m d a e h e iv t a cre SPRING/2019
cH CREATIVE HEAD
FOR BUSINESS
NEW RULES: Have fun
Make lots of
Money Be number one TH I
SP
AS T
W
EE
EE T
the
JUS TM
K
L ET ’ S
SPRING SUMMER
1979
ESTD
Sa
06/12/2018 15:19
am
2 019 C RE ATIVEHE ADM AG.COM
001_Runway_SS19_Covers_GW3.indd 1
lon
Succes
001-002_BH_Cover_Salon Success_16pp_GW11.indd 2
FOR JUST
sT
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18/02/2019 10:18
SIGN UP NOW AND RECEIVE A BUNDLE OF EVO
PRODUCTS, WORTH MORE THAN
£175*
£10 YOU’LL GET:
• 10 issues of Creative HEAD magazine – and supplements including Runway, PAINT and HEAD for Business – delivered to your door • Exclusive ticket prices for Creative HEAD events** • Exclusive competitions and prizes • Free product samples from leading professional brands
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Win a ticket to the evo stylist diaries creative photography workshop! Already a Creative HEAD Club member? Then we’ve got something special for you, too! One lucky member has the opportunity to win a ticket to the evo stylist diaries creative photography workshop, worth £160. Taking place on 14 October in London, this inspirational day will help you deconstruct editorial trends and learn how to work as part of a team to achieve incredible imagery. Simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD Club members will FOR E receive an email on 1 July! CREATIV
UB HEAD CLRS MEMBE ONLY
*For the first 25 new members to sign up between 1 July and 31 July 2019. Subject to availability and no cash equivalent will be offered. **Selected events only. For more details contact events@alfol.co.uk
FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS
YO U R E SS E N TI A L GU I D E TO T H E N E W S E A SO N
RU N WAY
19/06/2019 16:53
JU LY
U UG /A EMBER 2019 SEPT ST/
MISTER QUARTERLY 01_MrQ cover2.indd 1
19/06/2019 10:34
01_MrQ cover2.indd 2
19/06/2019 10:34
ANYTHING BUT
ď ƒ ORD NARY Made by barbers for barbers, MVRCK by Mitch is bringing a wave of West Coast cool to the UK
MVRCK is a mindset, an intention. To be true and authentic to every client with products that embody the skills and craftsmanship of barbering. From full beard to clean-shaved via artful stubble, the new range from Mitch is here to suit any grooming experience. Every product is 100 per cent vegan and has won its place in the line-up thanks to its versatility, functionality and effectiveness. Are you ready to become a maverick?
01_MrQ cover2.indd 3
19/06/2019 10:35
SHAPE UP, LOOK SHARP
From classic cool to street style, the MVRCK by Mitch styling heroes give the perfect professional finish. These 100 per cent vegan products are ready to style up a storm with sleek, simplified packaging, featuring two-in-one flip-top or spin-off lids and a vibrant, energising agave citrus scent
GROOMING CREAM
ORIGINAL POMADE
Create the ideal laid-back, done/undone look with this quick-styling product, infused with shea butter for conditioning. It gives natural shine, soft definition and light hold to air-dried or dry hair
This versatile pomade is perfect for classic, slicked-back styles or the latest street style finishes. Pliable and with a medium hold, it adds the right balance of texture, control and natural shine
DRY PASTE
GROOMING SPRAY
A matte finish with a lightweight texture, this versatile paste has the perfect amount of grit and grip without flaking. A blend of clays, safflower oil and body-building ingredients enhance texture
Add texture and volume without any stickiness with this lightweight styling spray. With a trigger spray for no-fuss dispensing, it helps to add height and buildable hold
01_MrQ cover2.indd 4
19/06/2019 10:35
TRIM, SHAVE, SHAPE, REPEAT Upgrade your shaving experience with this core quad of products. Barley seed extract helps to reduce shaving inflammation, while the energising and masculine scent gives senses a boost
BEARD OIL
SHAVE CREAM
Soften coarse hair with a blend of shea butter, sunflower seed oil and other lightweight yet hydrating ingredients. Use to tame all beard styles and lengths and keep it looking soft, shiny and healthy
A rich shaving cream that lathers up for a smooth, close shave while minimising irritation and inflammation. Skin is left moisturised and soothed thanks to hydrating extracts including coconut and barley seed
COOLING AFTERSHAVE
SKIN TONIC
Refresh the skin with a cool finish and energising agave citrus scent with this soothing aftershave. Antioxidant-rich ingredients nourish the skin for a perfect finish
The finishing touch to any shave experience. This light mist can be used pre- or post-shave for light hydration. A blend of cooling menthol and other skin-soothing ingredients calms and refreshes dry skin
01_MrQ cover2.indd 5
19/06/2019 10:35
OWN IT
Flex your creative muscles with MVRCK’s inclusive, streamlined collection, designed by your fellow craftsmen. Whether your client is looking for a new look or a daily routine, you have the tools at your disposal to fulďŹ l any vision Become a styling maverick. For more information on the new MVRCK by Mitch collection
call 0845 6590012 or visit salon-success.co.uk #MVRCK @mvrckbarbering @salonsuccessuk
01_MrQ cover2.indd 6
19/06/2019 10:36
E V I S U EXCL T N E T CON IN SESSION: MEN WITH
JODY TAYLOR & LIAM CAMPBELL • VIDEOS • STYLE NOTES • TIPS AND INSPIRATION
GET IT ALL AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EDUCATION
07_MrQ Coterie Men.indd 1
19/06/2019 10:38
THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS
Mr. Q
don Fashion Week Men We still get a buzz every time Lon colour at Iceberg to ’60s ant rolls around and, from the vibr ety of finishes was a vari splendour at Oliver Spencer, the ’s grooming today. men of welcome reminder of the vitality d and moustache bear that Indeed, it’s in this environment s and salons, shop for er services have become a key earn beard your e mak to how so turn to page 11 to find out otSorry rryN #So … sker whi business go with a bang, not a
GET SMART
1. 2. 3.
WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER Party… at the Most Wanted Awards Grand Final on 2 September with host Aisling Bea at Printworks in London. You’ll even get to meet the new Male Grooming Specialist winner! creativeheadmag.com/ mostwanted
Watch... American Crew founder David Raccuglia answer our questions and discover where he goes to find inspiration! creativeheadmag.com
Be inspired… by the stylings of Jody Taylor (pictured) and Liam Campbell from our Coterie: In Session men’s night. Think retro footballers and ’90s curtains! creativeheadmag.com
YO TO U NE ME ED ET…
welcomes you…
CHARLIE CULLEN The Lounge, Soho
Describe yourself in five words Grounded, driven, respectful, joker, chilled. What’s exciting you about British barbering right now? The link with fashion and hair being the biggest accessory. I’m not a fan of hair looking too ‘hairdressery’, if that makes sense. So now hairdressers and barbers wanting to learn to style hair in a editorial, undone and effortless way, excites me. If I could change one thing… I would make sure people are getting into the industry for the right reasons. This is a service industry and the reward should be making every client feel great! Of course we have amazing education opportunities and get to be creative with shoots and to travel, too. But it’s important that anyone with any influence highlights the importance of the craft; it’s not about becoming Insta-famous.
Everything changed for me when… When I first held my baby girl in my arms. All of a sudden you can feel pressure and a sense of responsibility to provide. The groomer that inspired me is… I was privileged enough to be taught by Jody Taylor when I was an apprentice at Toni&Guy and he was someone that inspired me to pursue a career as an artistic director for the company. Also Cos Sakkas – he’s responsible for making me the educator I am today and always inspiring me to do better. Who else should we get to know… Joe Mills (@joemillshair) – he’s a legend, in session and as a businessman. I’m buzzing about my new role as artistic director for his salon The Lounge and his barbers Joe & Co. Say hello to me… @CharlieCullenEducation
ON THE COVER MVRCK by Mitch
08 Mister Quarterly
08-09_MrQ Measure.indd 1
20/06/2019 09:46 Barbicide_
JOINT HONOURS
Emma Jankowski
Blade Pullman
MVRCK LANDS IN THE UK
In a first for the competition, it was a tie at the top of the American Crew All Star Challenge! Emma Jankowski from the US and Australia’s Blade Pullman scooped top honours at the New York final, which also celebrated the brand’s 25th anniversary.
08-09_MrQ Measure.indd 2 Barbicide_MadMen_AD_March2019_01-02.indd 1
Soho’s Cut & Grind was the host as John Paul Mitchell Systems unveiled its new barbering brand MVRCK by Mitch, with guest artist John Mosley. Around the UK, barber shops including Horsham’s Grizzly’s, Glasgow’s Frequency Barbers and Gloucestershire’s Jarreds, welcomed John and men’s grooming artist Kieran Price to try the new line and watch demos over a few cheeky drinks. John Mosley, (@popular_nobody), was one of a select few US barbers involved in helping Mitch develop the new MVRCK line.
NEW GROOM ROOM MILLS x Primark
Known for his session styling, editorials with the likes of GQ and Esquire and a celebrity clientele to envy, Joe Mills rather surprised many when it was announced that the founder of Joe & Co was opening a barbering concession in Primark. Starting with the huge new flagship store in Birmingham, MILLS is focused on taking classic cuts and doing them well, keeping it all rather uncomplicated and the prices competitive. Anyone is welcome, and the MILLS Coffee Bar is an extra touch to ensure a superlative service all round. Oh, and there are more than 9,000 songs on the MILLS playlist, too.
20/06/2019 05/03/201909:46 11:33
ON THE SHELF
BOYS’ TOYS
THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP Slick, Cali-cool MVRCK by Mitch is created by your fellow barbers – it’s a compact range rooted in functionality and authenticity that covers all hair and grooming needs.
Want to add a bit of lift and texture to your styling? Manwave’s Protein Kit delivers.
PRICE £7.60 +VAT
RRP FROM £13.95
hairproducts.co.uk
salon-success.co.uk
For workable medium hold and a silky, matte finish, American Crew’s new Matte Clay is spot on. Reuzel 3-in-1 Tea Tree Shampoo, Conditioner and all over Body Wash is perfect for cleaning from head to toe.
RRP £10.83 reuzel.co.uk
With a patent-pending compound, Hairdreams’ revolutionary Stop&Grow anti-hair loss therapy can ‘wake up’ dormant hair roots.
RRP FROM £25 hairdreams.com
RRP £15.20
Baxter of California’s Thickening Style Gel contains birch juice to smooth and soften the hair while calming the scalp.
americancrew.com
RRP £13
baxterofcalifornia.com
The word ‘legend’ gets bandied about a lot, but this motorised marvel from Takara Belmont lives up to its name. With the company celebrating its 60th anniversary, it’s a good time to revisit why it’s simply perfect for modern grooming establishments.
PRICE £5,995
takarahairdressing.co.uk
10 Mister Quarterly
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20/06/2019 10:48
Johnnie BaBa, Barber Barber
#IN THE KNOW HOW TO… BOOST YOUR BEARD BUSINESS
GET STAFF SKILLED UP Your grooming specialists need to be just that, specialist, as the beard can be difficult to master. “Know how to comb through and understand the beard shaping process,” says Joe & Co’s Joe Mills. Barber Tony Haresign recommends covering all aspects of health and safety, beard styles and specialist techniques in education.
HELP GUYS AT HOME “If you are doing it yourself it’s a lot harder to see it from all angles and knowing how to line out and remove weight in the beard is tricky,” says Joe. Barber Barber’s Johnny BaBa admits: “Most guys go too high up in the neck underneath and then too low on the cheek area,” so show them how to avoid common mistakes.
PRICE IT RIGHT At Barber Barber, the beard services are priced around £1 a minute. At Ruffians, its services are billed in 15-minute increments. “Charge the right price for the service, don’t sell yourself short, adds Tony Haresign. “This could add 20 to 45 per cent onto the bill, along with added retail opportunities, too.”
OFFER TOP PRODUCTS Hardgrind’s Colin Petrie, an American Crew Elite member, recommends Beard Foaming Cleanser by American Crew for all beard types to help remove daily residue build-up. Danny Baggs at Fine Fettle points to the value of educating about skincare beneath the beard. “Many are already aware of beard oils, while products like our leave-in conditioners are effective as they’re packed with nutrients.”
GET THE MESSAGE OUT The front-of-house staff at Ruffians are trained to enquire about beard work, as many clients are unaware they can have a quick beard tidy up. Tony Haresign suggests offering a free beard shape up or ’tache trim to selected clients and posting on social media to create a buzz. Mister Quarterly 11
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REFUEL YOUR HAIR The new Stop&Grow system from Hairdreams gives thinning hair the boost it needs
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Hair loss can be a bit of a taboo topic, which is strange given how widely it affects the population. According to recent studies, every second salon client – both male and female – have concerns about hair loss. Imagine how much better your clients would feel if you could open up the conversation and offer some tangible results. Hairdreams’ Stop&Grow is an innovative anti-hair loss therapy, which has been rigorously tested by the Clinic of Dermatology at the University of Lübeck in Germany. The new system has been shown to generate growth of an incredible 14,000 new hairs in just three months. This all down to the revolutionary plant-based, patent-pending PHT compound, which effectively ‘wakes up’
sleeping hair roots that have entered resting phase following hair loss. The PHT compound stimulates cell division, reactivating it so that the root can resume production of new, healthy hairs. So how much fuel does this give to thinning hair? Dr Tobias Fischer at the University of Lübeck conducted studies using Stop&Grow and measured an average hair growth increase of 30 per cent, a 10 per cent increase in hair growth speed, and an increase in active hair roots by an incredible 23 per cent! Just picture sharing those stats with your clients, and the hope you can share that their hair will wake up once more with your help. Want to grow your Sandra Schmidbauer, business? Then Stop&Grow might just be the Hairdreams salon manager fuel your clients have been looking for…
“It’s a great feeling when you can help a client who has been suffering from hair loss. The results are astonishing and have far exceeded our clients’ expectations, especially those who have tried other hair growth solutions in the past”
For more information on Hairdreams Stop&Grow, call 07566 294857, +43 316 6057644, email crm@hairdreams.com, visit stopandgrow.com and follow @hairdreams_uk Mister Quarterly 13
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SLICKER
THAN YOUR AVERAGE VIBRANT, COLOURFUL, CREATIVE – THE GROOMING AT LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN S/S20 SHOWCASES THE EXCITEMENT AROUND GUYS’ STYLING RIGHT NOW. MR.Q REFLECTS ON A FEW OF HIS FAVOURITE SHOWS
ST-HENRI
HAIR BY BRENDAN O’SULLIVAN
The two looks here reflected the organic feel of the fibres in the collection. The first was ‘desert dry’, using Go24•7 gel to damp hair and diffuse. The second, a take on a ‘hillbilly rat tail’, saw Brendan cutting up several wigs, blending different lengths and secured with hair tape by Gold Class Hair.
ICEBERG
JOHN VIAL FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL
Slicked back, ultra-reflective hair made the perfect surface for vibrant streaks of colour for both the male and female models. John Vial used a generous handful of mousse and Revlon Professional Style Masters Modular Hairspray 2 for longer hair, pulled back into tight ponytails, while many of the men sported close buzzcuts.
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OLIVER SPENCER
JOHNNIE SAPONG FOR ELECTRIC LONDON
CHARLES JEFFREY
JOHN VIAL FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL
Each look was anarchy personified, from tiny kiss curls fringing a buzzcut to artfully punky styles. The tall, witchy female hairpieces were inspired by artist Arnulf Rainer’s sketched-over portraits. John Vial created the scribbled effects by laying out spiderweb hairpieces on a flat surface and blasting them with Revlon Professional Style Masters Photo Finisher 3 hairspray for hold.
Inspired by Wong Kar-wai’s In The Mood For Love, the hair look centred around ’60s elegance mixed with the vibrant atmosphere of Hong Kong’s famous markets. To create the glossy, slicked back finish, a cocktail mix of Electric °C-4 Shaping Paste and Electric °C-1 English Rose Serum was liberally applied to the hair using a colour brush.
BIANCA SAUNDERS
ANNA COFONE FOR FUDGE PROFESSIONAL
Taking inspiration from the ‘perfectly imperfect’ theme of Bianca Saunders’ latest collection, hair mimicked the tailoring with a graphic shape, as well as the deconstructed knitwear pieces with dishevelled hairlines. To create the tousled, matte finish, Fudge Professional Salt Spray was applied to baby hairs.
VELSVOIR
LOUIS MAHARAJ FOR LABEL.M
Drawing inspiration from the jet-set age of the ’50s, the Velsvoir collection saw a departure from the classic black tuxedo with the introduction of dandy decadence to offer a fresh perspective. The hair referenced strong pompadour shapes to capture the essence of the ‘golden era’, using label.m Advanced Pro Wand to create a defined shape.
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TUCKER’S IN TUCKER CUTS, RUFFIANS’ RICHARD TUCKER TAKES TO THE STREET TO DELIVER A DISTINCTLY ’90S VIBE WITH CURLED CURTAINS ALONGSIDE IMPECCABLE FADING
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RON TIMEHIN 16 Mister Quarterly
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LUCK
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Hair by Richard Tucker, Ruffians (@tuckercuts). Clothes are models’ own. Photography by Ron t (@rontimehin)
SHOP TALK
POLE POSITION BARBEROLOGY
Adam Gore
MORE SHOREDITCH STYLE THAN PEAKY BLINDERS, FOUNDER ADAM GORE IS LOOKING TO OFFER A FRESH TWIST ON A CLASSIC “The best way that I can explain the concept behind the shop is that it’s like going into your favourite pub with your friends – but getting a really high-quality beer,” Adam Gore muses about the atmosphere he’s cultivated at Barberology, his duo of barber shops. “It has an evolved vintage feel; we’re not stuck in the past or all wearing waistcoats, but we do have a classic element.” After cutting his teeth at Toni&Guy, Adam traded in the exhausting lifestyle of a session hairstylist to find himself working in a non-surgical hair replacement clinic. But his true passion – men’s hairdressing – kept gnawing at him, pushing him to search for the perfect location for his first shop. “We hit the sweet spot just when the industry was blowing up,” Adam admits. “It took me about a year to find the perfect place for our first location, which is in the Jewellery Quarter of Birmingham. It goes with our branding and the whole area’s booming. It’s like an old-school Shoreditch. It was the perfect opportunity to do something, and to do it in my style.” So what can clients expect from a Barberology cut? “We’re the guaranteed good hair place – the place where clients can go and don’t have to be paranoid. We cut to the head shape; it makes the cut fit, rather than just sit.” While having the cast of Peaky Blinders pop in for cuts during filming was a huge boon for business, Adam jokes as he lamented the stream of clients asking for a Peaky Blinders style: “It’s a terrible haircut!” Barberology is just the tip of the iceberg for Adam and his business focus. And we’re eagerly awaiting his first foray into women’s styling with the launch of a new salon this summer.
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Apollo 2 Icon, the diamond-quilted Apollo with contrast piping.
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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE
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Inspired by Generation Z, #MyTreasure sees Hairkrone reflecting the images different urban characters portray through their profiles on social networks
We’re ‘In conversation with…’ Edward Darley. Press play on our latest film, where we chat colour with the Wella Professionals Colour Creative
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The Coterie: In Session returns this month, session star Leigh Keates and styling supremo Lisa Farrall step into the spotlight on 15 July
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American Crew founder David Raccuglia answers our quickfire questions about men’s grooming over the past 25 years
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TONY HEFFERNAN AND DANIELLE KENNEDY LLOYDS HAIR
RICHARD PHILLIPART
THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER
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PAUL PERCIVAL AND ADAM REED PERCY & REED
GREAT NAMES SHARED EXPERIENCES CREATIVE HEAD’S SELL-OUT BUSINESS NETWORKING CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENTFOR FORSALON SALON OWNERS OWNERS AND EVENT ANDMANAGERS MANAGERS
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DAVID CAMPBELL
HOUSE OF COLOUR
SABRINA HILL
KOPPER HAIR SALON
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DYLAN BRADSHAW
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STUART HOLMES SALON
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MARBLES HAIR & BEAUTY
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SUNDAY 3 NOVEMBER 2019, DUBLIN
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fu re perfect L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY
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The artistry… the mastery… the talent… the L’Oréal Colour Trophy, now in its 64th year, illustrates beautifully this seminal moment in British hairdressing. Colour has never before been so firmly in the driving seat, and it’s in sixth gear, racing away with a breathless bounty of creativity and superlative skill. At the 2019 Grand Final, the competition closed with a kaleidoscopic celebration, with colourists from across the UK sharing their heart-stopping visions, finely-honed techniques and fashion-flavoured final looks. This is a show that sees finalists entering looks that deliver in their entirety – perfectly matched pastels in their hair and co-ords stand beside coppers contrasting with emerald-hued tailoring. Yet every finish was commercial, modern, relevant to the hundreds of hairdressers congregated at Battersea Evolution. This is colour in 2019 – and it’s never looked better. 39
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L ’OrÊal Col r Tr hy and LОdО RegiО winner
SINEAD KELLY, LONDON
winning LOOKS LIKE‌
L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY
THIS IS WHAT
Exceptional colour, consumer-covetable looks, skilled colourists – this mix is the heartbeat of the L’OrÊal Colour Trophy. L’OrÊal Professionnel shines a spotlight on the creative brilliance of UK colourists, whose trends we’ll see buzzing on the nation’s high streets. Stars of #LCT19, you smashed it! 40
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L ’Oréal STAR Award – Judges’ Fav rite
L ’Oréal A o Award Winner
CHRISTOPHER MAIN, ANDREW MULVENNA
ERROL DOUGLAS SALON
L ’Oréal Col r Tr hy
L ’Oréal Men’s Image Award Winner
TREVOR SORBIE COVENT GARDEN
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY SECOND PLACE AND SCOTTISH REGION WINNER LINTON & MAC
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY THIRD PLACE AND NORTH WESTERN REGION WINNER THE COLOUR ROOM STOCKPORT
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Kaleid c ic
L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY
COLOUR
A triple threat show team delivered an interchanging and evolving look at the kaleidoscope
Mul -col red Infinity
SEE MORE from backstage at the L’Oréal Colour trophy shows, visit creativeheadmag.com
TIM HARTLEY
To a pulsing soundtrack of late ’80s techno, an attitude-laden army of club kids in fetish gear prowled the catwalk in neon yellow and teal crops, flame red and magenta bobs and softer lavender breaths. One model stalked along with the bounciest Afro kissed with coral, drawing gasps as she ripped it off to reveal a fluro-orange flat top. Bold, breath-taking and evocative of a dance scene that has always been a celebration and expression of individualism and eccentricity. Delicious.
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Ge e ic Reflec Đžs SAKS
Photography by eventconcept
Here, the kaleidoscope had been deconstructed by Luke Pluckrose. Chrome, glass and geometric elements were used to form iconic feminine silhouettes – metallic coils revisiting the biggest of perms, while more than 2,000 hair grips formed molten waves to deliver a titanium ’40s film siren. It was playful (a glitter-high pony and a bum-length crystal chandelier-style wig) and it was supremely technical (sculptural prism pieces constructed using triangles, with each formed of thousands of strands of hair). The climax saw the work illuminated like stained glass – truly heavenly.
Prisms Light TREVOR SORBIE
Myriad exhibitions formed the inspiration for this ray of light from Johanna Cree Brown – fusing classic art references with fashion and video games. An eclectic mix gave birth to a focus on light, reflection, colour graduation and warping. Holographic 3D hair received the full wind machine treatment, the long lengths following the model like a bridal train. Under ultraviolet lights, rainbow bright threads fizzed with electric energy in architectural, avant-garde headpieces. Exceptional.
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n Network, the To celebrate the talent across the Aveda Salo re stylists up and brand runs the #AvedaArtist competition, whe media for the down the UK submit creative images on social Aveda Artistic chance to win a shoot mentored by one of the Hair & Beauty; Team. Winners Hannah Chorlton from Elements h Leah from Hayley Downes from Brothers Thame and Bet summer Mayfair & Grace were invited to embrace a little the creative loving and get colourful for the season, under . direction of Bea Carmichael and Luke Castillo Let the sunshine in‌ PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL SIMS 44
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL GO ONLINE to see all competition entries – search #avedaartist on Instagram, or visit @AvedaUK
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“I enter the #Ave ed daArtist competit io n just to da creativity bble . It’s bee n eye-op in and learn en in has been g different techn ing ique brilli hair with ant. This is relata s an ble gorgeou atural wave and s little ba bylights” HANNAH CHORLTO N, E LEMENTS HAIR & BE @HANNA AUTY H JCHORLTO @ELEMEN N, TS_HAIR_ AND_BEA UTY
“I wanted to create something fun and stylish. It’s quite a sleek, smooth style. I’ve never done anything like this before but I thought it would be a good experience. Editorial shoots are a completely different way of working” BETH LEAH, MAYFAIR & GRACE @BETHLEAH16, @MAYFAIRANDGRACE
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“I have da for been with Ave pleting er com years, and aft rogramme I p r o d a s s a b the am knowledge y m t u p ld u o ly thought I w been absolute e ’s It t! s te e th n to ething everyo m o s ’s it – le incredib n exciting new a ’s it , in t s e v should in uickly, a crazy q o s t n e w It . experience o much fun!” s d a h I y, a d y bus
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AMBASSADOR, AVEDA COLOUR S, NE W DO EY HAYL E BROTHERS THAM HERSTHAME OT BR @ 5, NES3 @HAYLEY_DOW
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HAIR Hannah Chorlton, Elements Hair & Beauty; Hayley Downes, Brothers Thame; Beth Leah, Mayfair & Grace. COLOUR Bruno Elorrioroz and Sergio Pizarro, Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa Covent Garden (@brunoelorrioroz, @sergio_pizarro_flores_colours), Hayley Downes, Brothers Thame. AVEDA CREATIVE DIRECTION Bea Carmichael (@beacarmichael13) and Luke Castillo (@lukeccastillo). MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio (@lucy.broggio_mua) PHOTOGRAPHY Daniel Sims (@simsnotebook).
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INSPIRATION,
BOTTLED A SIMPLE BOTTLE HOLDS A LIFETIME OF STORIES. JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS BEGAN AS TWO FRIENDS WANTING TO PROVIDE AFFORDABLE LUXURY HAIRCARE WHILE SUPPORTING THEIR FELLOW HAIRDRESSERS AND IT BECAME A GAME CHANGING COMPANY. AND THERE ARE SO MANY STORIES STILL TO BE WRITTEN…
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“SUCCESS UNSHARED IS FAILURE” JOHN PAUL DEJORIA
JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS HAS A LONG LEGACY OF GIVING BACK; SETTING THE STANDARD FOR PHILANTHROPY IN THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY John Paul DeJoria and Paul Mitchell started John Paul Mitchell Systems with just $700 and grew the brand into a boundary-breaking company. Long before sustainability and environmental issues became marketing buzzwords, the duo were creating a set of brand guidelines that were unheard of at the time. John Paul Mitchell Systems was the first brand to publicly announce that it does not conduct or endorse animal testing. It has partnered with numerous charities dedicated to sustainability, animal rights, the environment and much more. Giving back to the industry as much as the world is a key pillar to the brand. Pairing with John Paul Mitchell Systems is much more than a choice of product: you know you’re supporting a brand that supports you back.
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TAKE A STAND PAUL MITCHELL REMAINS A FAMILYOWNED BRAND WITH A STRONG COMMITMENT TO GIVING BACK, STICKING TO ITS CORE PRINCIPLES UNFAILINGLY
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No animal testing. Never have, never will Performance-driven products without the eye-watering price tag It has made efforts to make as many products as possible 100 per cent vegan More than $20 million (£15.8 million) has been raised by Paul Mitchell Schools in the past 15 years for charity Its collaboration with the Baby2Baby network has provided nearly 12 million basic necessities to more than 200,000 US children in need so far Working with Reforest’Action to plant 750,000 trees by the end of 2019
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A BIGGER DISCOVER WHAT PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR CAN REALLY DO
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If you think ‘vegan colour’ is a contradiction in terms, think again. All Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color products are 100 per cent vegan and offer incredible shades, depth and shine. In fact, many of the John Paul Mitchell Systems products are 100 per cent vegan, including all but one of the lighteners. But the efforts don’t stop there – the aluminium colour tubes are also made with up to 35 per cent recycled aluminium, continuing the core principles of the brand. From semipermanent flashes of colour to depth of tone and grey coverage, the quality and intention of all the colour products are uncompromised. In a world where more and more people are concerned about the ingredients in everyday products, you can feel secure in offering a quality product that delivers and caters for every client.
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A bottle of the iconic Tea Tree Special Shampoo is sold every four seconds – and we’re not surprised. For a long time tea tree has been used for its anti-bacterial properties and invigorating scent. It’s extremely fast growing and during harvest no trees are harmed or destroyed, making it an environmentally friendly and renewable natural resource. The entire Tea Tree range offers an incredible sensory experience to the consumer, and its eco-credentials are only the beginning. Tea Tree has paired with Reforest’Action, an environmental organisation that plants trees worldwide in the areas they’re needed most. Between the two of them, Tea Tree and Reforest’Action have pledged to plant a total of 750,000 by the end of 2019. Over the course of their lifespans, these trees will remove 85,000 tonnes of CO2 from the atmosphere. Offer your clients healthier hair, while creating a healthier business for yourself and contributing to a healthier planet.
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SOLAR FLAIR
BORN IN THE LUSH, SOLARPOWERED FARM IN STUNNING HAWAII, AWAPUHI WILD GINGER OFFERS A BLEND OF HAWAIIAN HERITAGE AND TRANSFORMATIVE TECHNOLOGY For centuries Hawaiian natives have used the fragrant sap of the awapuhi ginger plant to deeply moisturise their skin and hair – but it was a happy accident which saw the Awapuhi Wild Ginger brand come to life. Paul Mitchell often visited the tropical isles, and it was on one of these trips that he came upon the bright red flowers that would become a truly game-changing ingredient. Inspired by the island’s heritage (and their hippy
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roots), John Paul DeJoria and Paul Mitchell created an organic, sustainable, solar-powered farm in 1983, which is still the main source for every awapuhi plant the brand uses to this day. No chemical process is involved in transforming the plant into the range’s vital ingredient: the finely ground root is blended with pure water and added straight into the formulas to help cleanse, condition and revitalise hair.
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SWITCH ON TO INTELLIGENT STYLING WITH NEURO TOOLS AND NEURO LIQUID PRODUCTS Cutting-edge technology doesn’t just belong in your smartphone. Neuro tools contain SmartSense ultra-sensitive microchips to monitor the temperature they are outputting, ensuring perfectly even heat for exceptional results. The clever chips regulate temperature 50 times a second and respond in a quarter of a second! The SmartSense technology also features a world first – a ‘clean filter’ indicator light that alerts the user after 100 hours of use to clean the filter to boost tool performance. HeatCTRL products make the perfect partner to heat-intensive styling, designed to provide relief to stressed-out strands. From Neuro Prime, which prevents up to 86 per cent of heatcaused damage; to the restorative Neuro Repair Treatment; you can help to protect strands and ensure a smooth, glossy finish.
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NOT ALL OILS ARE CREATED EQUAL  MEET MARULAOIL Lauded as one of the hottest ingredients currently in skincare, John Paul Mitchell Systems was promoting the benefits of marula oil long before it was a beauty buzzword. This hydrating hair line has transformative properties as protective antioxidants effortlessly repair damaged hair to give it incredible lustre and a luxurious feel. The MarulaOil range comes from fruit harvested by women’s collectives who are paid fair trade wages and are educated on safe practices and traceability. Being able to combine a sustainable, long-term economy for these women and their families by ethically sourcing ingredients and providing a professional, quality product is the epitome of John Paul Mitchell Systems and its brands.
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BEYOND THE BOTTLE JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS IS ROOTED IN THE PHILOSOPHY OF ITS CREATORS. AND THE DEDICATION TO THE PLANET DOESN’T FALTER ONCE THE PRODUCTS ARE BOTTLED. •Its global distribution centre is solar powered and smart energy-efficient •Shipping cartons are made from recycled fibres •It uses biodegradable shipping bubbles, with 95 per cent pre-consumer recycled material •All plastic and cardboard is recycled and excess cardboard is donated •All product packaging is fully recyclable And that’s just for starters… the rest is up to you! TO ELEVATE YOUR BUSINESS WITH BRANDS THAT GIVE BACK TO THE PLANET AND SUPPORT THE SALON PROFESSIONAL, CONTACT SALON SUCCESS, EXCLUSIVE UK DISTRIBUTOR OF JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS BRANDS. CALL 0845 6590011 OR VISIT SALONSUCCESS.CO.UK
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All Paul MitchellÂŽ colour and many other products, are
100% VEGAN
The first professional beauty company to stand up
AGAINST ANIMAL TESTING
SUSTAINABLE, SOLAR-POWERED Awapuhi Farm founded in 1983
Nearly 40 years ago, two friends were inspired to start a company that would support the success of hairdressers and provide luxury hair care at an affordable price. With just $700, John Paul DeJoria and Paul Mitchell launched a revolutionary hair care system featuring three products. The rest is history.
Find us on
and
at Paul Mitchell UK
Available from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011
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MIX IT, MATCH IT, TAKE IT AWAY FROM DRAB TO FAB – THE NEW-LOOK EVO FAB PRO SYSTEM IS HERE TO SHOW YOU WHAT TRUE CUSTOMISED COLOUR MAINTENANCE LOOKS LIKE
You’ve done the hard work and created your client’s dream colour – but is your aftercare up to scratch? ‘Close enough’ is a missed opportunity. ‘This’ll do’ is your client topping up your hard work at home with a box dye. Imagine a customised colour maintenance system that allows you to grow and protect your salon retail business. What you’re imagining is evo fab pro: customised colour maintenance conditioners that perfectly match and maintain your client’s colour in-between salon visits. It’s a simple formula that’ll have them flocking back to your salon. Why would they go anywhere else? HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS The evo fab pro system couldn’t be simpler. Once you’ve whipped up a bespoke colour for your client, you can offer that exact shade to them as a take-home maintenance colour conditioner. Simply match the colour, select your formula, add to the conditioner base and shake. Fab pro complements any permanent, demi and semi-permanent colour so it can be implemented in any salon. Show your clients that you can perfectly maintain that colour you’ve just spent hours creating in-salon at home and you’ll have a client for life.
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A LOT OF BOTTLE
CALL THE SHOTS WITH EVO FAB PRO AND PERSONALISE UNIQUE FORMULAS THAT CLIENTS CAN’T GET ANYWHERE ELSE
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“My favourite thing about evo fab pro is that you are able to customise a maintenance conditioner to suit every client. This enables them to properly look after their colour at home. Tone, vibrancy or even helping to counteract brassiness – the possibilities are truly unique and endless” JAY KOWNACKI, HEAD OF EDUCATION FOR EVO
“Offering a personalised solution to colour fade increases client loyalty as you have delivered something special and tailored to them – something they can’t buy online or from a high street shop. Most of all, you have happier clients all round as their hair colour has never looked as fresh or shiny for so long!” TOM SMITH, COLOUR DIRECTOR, BILLI CURRIE For more information on how to shake up your salon services with evo fab pro custom colour maintenance, call 0800 9554285 or visit evohair.co.uk
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f o h t a e r B
Baffled about pollution solutions? Revlon Professional’s new MAGN±T Pollution Neutralizer is here to clear the air POLLUTION AWARENESS HAS become commonplace everywhere from skincare to apps. The next obvious step was haircare – everything from poor water quality to microscopic air particles can interfere with hair health and condition. And now we’ve hit the summer months it’s impossible to ignore the effects of the sun and high UV levels. UV rays penetrate and damage the hair protein structure to induce premature hair ageing from the inside, while degrading any colour work on the exterior. Our skin cells regenerate constantly, but our hair shafts don’t – so it’s important to prevent this damage from occurring in the first place. Equip your clients with the necessary defence to keep their hair colour and condition in an optimal state with the new Revlon Professional MAGN±T collection. The five-strong line-up helps to add a layer of protection to every step of the salon experience and homecare, so your clients can breathe a little easier. The star of the show is the MAGN±T Pollution Neutralizer. This patent-pending formula is a hardworking additive to be blended in with your colour or lightening mix. It shields against the heavy metals which settle on the hair shaft from both water and the air. These metals interfere with the hydrogen peroxide in your colour development, generating free radicals, breaking keratin bonds and producing inconsistent colour results. Adding MAGN±T Pollution Neutralizer eliminates up to 90 per cent of these metals and inhibits the creation of damaging free radicals. With an in-built keratin reinforcer, arginine and chelating agents, you can create the optimal canvas for your colour work. Revlon Professionals’ MAGN±T range works with any colour range to create a support structure at every step of the haircare process, from backwash to their own bathroom.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
r i a ) h ( h s e r f “We’ve had lots of positive feedback, clients love how their hair looks and feels after use. For us, as professionals, we’ve seen some great results – colour lasts for longer and appears more vibrant. We can predict the outcome of a colour even more, because removing pollutants from the hair makes for more precise results and the quality of the hair is improved” ROBERT MASCIAVE, METROPOLIS HAIRDRESSING, KINGSTON
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The halo effect Discover Revlon Professional MAGNÂąT and how salon owners have integrated the range into their salon
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
FROM SHAMPOO TO a daily shield spray, the MAGN±T collection is designed to make pollution protection as effortless as possible. The compact collection contains everything you need to lock in colour and condition, while working to remove harmful impurities
IN THE SALON
MAGN±T Pollution Neutralizer Neutralise the effects of metals on hair and fight free radical formation MAGN±T Color Lock Repairing Shampoo Reduce metallic deposits, build-up and the effects of poor water quality to help hair structure recover
HOMECARE
MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Micellar Cleanser Remove daily pollutants and neutralise the effects of poor water quality MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Restoring Mask Reduce particle deposits and free radical formation by strengthening keratin bonds MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Daily Shield A lightweight daily spray shield against environmental aggressors and UV damage
“The new MAGN±T range is so easy to use by both stylists and consumers! The results in both colour vibrancy and retention of colour is simply amazing. Anti-pollution products are currently very much at the forefront of people’s minds and I’m finding that my team are easily linking MAGN±T in relation to skin and haircare” MARK LEESON, REVLON PROFESSIONAL GLOBAL ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR Neutralise the threat of pollution effortlessly with MAGN±T by Revlon Professional. Call 020 7391 7440 or visit revlonprofessional.com @revlonprofessionaluk
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#RevlonProfessional
#MagnetRP
#CreateBoldly
#LiveBoldly
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DIVE IN
EXPERIENCE THE DELIGHTS OF THE DEEP AND DELIVER A SOOTHING, SPA-LIKE THERAPY WITH REVLON PROFESSIONAL EKSPERIENCE TALASSOTHERAPY SERVICES THERE’S A WHOLE WORLD under the ocean that we barely understand, but we do know that it’s home to some of the most nutrient-rich ingredients on our planet. The Revlon Professional EKSperience range has been inspired by the ocean featuring scalp and hair in-salon treatments of incredible quality that marry pure marine ingredients with cutting-edge scientific research. The range is a revitalising combination of beauty ritual and massage that leaves the client feeling serene and uplifted. The treatment components are formulated using marine spring water, nutrient-rich algae and essential elements, which are freshly mixed before treatments to achieve optimal performance. With 20 years of research behind it, EKSperience provides a synergy between unique sensory experiences and outstanding results. This exclusive range of in-salon treatments can be used to calm and treat issues such as a sensitive scalp, excess sebum, hair loss and dandruff. Each formulation can be mixed for a bespoke finish, made more effective by their
freshness. Ingredients include an extremely fine seaweed extract powder, utilising the powerful antioxidant-filled spirulina, which contains every essential amino acid and is packed with protein. The Marine Algae Scalp treatment is mixed with bespoke blends of essential oil extracts, depending on the required effect. Choose from Dermo Calm for sensitive scalps, Sebum Balancing for oily scalps, Revitalizing to tackle hair loss concerns and Purifying for dandruff issues. Add a few drops of the Hair Multivitamin Cocktail and you have a fresh, purifying mask treatment to restore and soothe the scalp. For added care, the Remineralizing Mud Pack can be worked into the mid-lengths and ends for hydration that dives deep into the hair shaft. Channel your client’s inner mermaid.
For more information, call 020 7391 7440 or visit revlonprofessional.com @revlonprofessionaluk CREATIVE HEAD
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THE INDUSTRY IS CHANGING AND THE OLD RULES OF HOW WE WORK DO NOT ALWAYS APPLY. SO HOW ARE HAIRDRESSING CAREERS LOOKING IN 2019? FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER, more than half of UK hair professionals are self-employed, whether they operate a mobile round, are dedicated to session or rent a chair in a salon. New salon spaces opening in large UK cities are increasingly experimenting with different co-working concepts, mirroring wider change across the country as the gig economy becomes more prevalent and spaces such as WeWork offer serviced locations for freelancers for a flat fee. For some, this change is an exciting new landscape that offers freedom and greater earning power. For others, it’s a frustrating and ultimately frightening world. Stylists going solo may find the prospect of working alone, with no support network to turn to, both daunting and isolating. Salon owners keen to employ staff and train apprentices are finding it’s a struggle to get the team members they need… all while facing mounting costs and red tape. With ever increasing minimum wages, pension contributions, VAT payments, it’s no wonder the rent-a-chair model is so 60
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enticing. For salons worried about losing their employed staff, the NHF/NBF’s Hilary Hall believes now is the perfect time to “ram home the benefits of being an employee – a guaranteed wage, predictable hours, paid holidays, maternity leave, pension contributions, sick leave. The value of these benefits all add up and give employees the certainty of knowing exactly how much they’ll have in their pockets each week to pay the bills”. But for many stylists, the freedom of freelancing is too tempting to resist. As Creative HEAD unveils a new digital hub, SELF/STYLED, on 4 July (US Independence Day seemed a natural fit) to help independent stylists navigate their careers, we wanted to hear from you just how you work today. How have working lives changed and just what impact has the growth of self-employment had on salon businesses? We don’t know what the future holds, and that’s unsettling. But we can’t stick our heads in the sand and ignore what’s happening. This is how we work now… CREATIVE HEAD
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MATTHEW SUTCLIFFE, TINT
“There’s a different buzz in a self-employed salon. Everyone seems to work twice as hard to maintain a good clientele and the financial benefits can be amazing. I loved it but missed employee benefits and felt I was losing everything I’d worked hard for. I felt on my own but my income quadrupled. I invested in PR, set aside cash for shoots and competitions then saved for TINT. “Our business plan is simple: the stylists are our clients and they pay us. They receive salon benefits like receptionists, assistants, education, competition training and industry opportunities, photoshoots, clients, PR and everything else you would expect from a fully-employed salon. It’s our responsibility to keep standards high and maintain our promise to our client, the stylist. We only employ a receptionist and assistants. All self-employed staff pay TINT for our services, and this is to comply with IR35 anti-avoidance tax legislation. “We can’t enforce anything on the stylists as they are not employees, but we do have ‘house rules’ that we all agree to stick to. If we have ever seen something we don’t like we just sort it out like adults. “The stylists all have their own card machines, and must have an accountant as well as their own insurance. “Our trainees are in safe hands with our own NVQqualified assessor, Leanne Brown. We feel we’ve highlighted a problem – so many young people don’t want to go in hairdressing because of the low wages. After their training they can apply for a job at TINT, and potentially be earning more than £50k within eight years. Not every ‘rent-a-chair’ salon operates like this.” CREATIVE HEAD
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TERRY BOLDERO AND CAROLINE FILBY, BOLDERO & FILBY
SEE KEN WEST’S RESPONSE ON PAGE 22
“We’ve had our salon for 20 years and have loved every minute. Our biggest challenge is self-employment. Newer stylists are used to being self-employed and like the freedom, money and independence this gives them, and nothing we have offered so far has convinced them to become our employees. “Then there’s the big problem of losing long-standing team members to other self-employed salons. We know that once they have their mind set on something, there’s no point in trying to convince them otherwise as they’ve already left you, mentally. We now wonder if we have to give in to the pressure and accept that we’re fighting a losing battle. It’s so hard when we’re not on a level playing field with most independent operators, who are not paying a single penny of VAT while we pay in excess of £45,000 a year. How can we compete? “We’re all about teamwork. We offer a competitive commission scheme, training, photoshoots, a pension scheme and fun events, but it still feels like it’s not enough.”
LACEY HUNTER-FELTON, HUNTER COLLECTIVE “As I turned 30 I looked to address my work/life balance. I created Hunter Collective to bring a lifestyle-focused way of working to me and the talent of the freelance hair industry. “We call all stylists that join our collective ‘members’. All new members start with a trial day and a simple induction process to experience our space and give us feedback. “They sign a member agreement, which outlines the responsibilities we have to each other and the professionalism we promote. Each member has their own insurance and kit, while dryers, gowns and towels are provided. This is a coworking space, all members are independent businesses. “We’re run by the hour, and this means members pay for the hours their clients are sat in our chairs. This is an important element of how we work, with our members in mind. The community, which is growing around us, is a strong focus.” 62
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VISIT OUR BLOG FOR MORE INSPIRATION SALON-SERVICES.COM/BLOGS
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in store
14/06/2019 16:13
ANGELO VALLILLO, DNA ARTSPACE “We opened the salon with a team that included four self-employed stylists, and for the first 18 months it was a massive battle between those stylists and me and Dale [Hearne, salon co-founder]. “They were friends of ours, we gave them a good percentage but they wanted us to pay the VAT on it and put it all through the system, and that wasn’t going to work. “So they got their own card machines. But they were wasting colour, they were coming and going. We were trying to control and grow something as a brand, and it just wasn’t going to work. We found out they were planning to go to another salon, and we had to pull the plug. We took a massive hit – we felt like we had no control, no loyalty. In staff meetings we would try to talk about wellbeing, our philosophy, the craft, and it was like they were not in the room, you could feel it in the air. “If I was to do it all again, I would go one way or the other. You look at the US right now and salon suites… we have 3,000 square feet so I could have done that if I’d chosen the self-employed route. But that’s just being a businessman. If you want to create a brand, everyone has to be employed. You need to choose, you can’t mix the two.”
JOANNE ETHERSON, SALON SERVICES “Our main customer at Salon Services is the freelance and mobile stylist – we have a name for her, she’s called Hayley, and we’ve done a lot of work figuring out exactly who she is and everything she needs. “She’s aged 25 to 35, she has children, and was creative in the industry but is now on her own and wanting to get back into hairdressing. She lacks the support of the salon team that she used to lean on. She’s very frustrated and quite scared, worried about costs, and she’s in the situation where customers might say ‘this is what I want’ and she doesn’t have someone to turn to for help. “Finding education that’s as cheap as possible is very important, and it’s mainly online because with kids travel can be difficult, so she feels distant and alone and doesn’t know who or what to trust online. She wants to lean on big companies, which is why she’s shopping with us, and she can come in and ask advice from our hairdressers in store. They often lean on them like they did their salon crew. “Education is so key – there’s tax and accounting, these are things she’s never done before. What products should she buy, how can she transport them? You can feel very isolated as a freelancer, and so it’s important that Hayley feels part of a community. We don’t want her to feel alone. “I think we’re going to see more people going freelance, and more people working in salon co-operatives renting chairs. With social media, hairstylists can build up their base of customers and can take them from a salon they’ve worked at. But I think you’ll also see more people going mobile and working from home to keep costs down.”
Are you self employed or managing a salon with self-employed stylists? Then check out creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled from 4 July 64
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KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL “I decided to leave a sought-after role in a salon because I wanted my own thing to build and develop. I lived in a warehouse and started doing my weekly pop-up salon and it quickly became my main source of income. One client was living in an old warehouse and as I was cutting his hair he offered me a space. I built a three-seater salon and a mezzanine where I slept. At first this concept was built just for my needs, but if I was thinking it then others must be, too. “There aren’t any ‘rules’ as such at The Social. Freelancers can work whatever hours, use whatever brands, wear whatever clothes, charge whatever they would like. You book your day/chair, then you’re ready to roll once you’ve given me your public liability certificate. More and more hairdressers have been gravitating to the freelance lifestyle. “It’s not like I’ve invented a new business model, I’m just adapting with the industry as it’s evolving. The real aim for me is to focus on promoting a healthy lifestyle for the next generation of stylists, making sure the work I’m delivering will be inspiring, not exhausting.”
2018
MICHELLE ROONEY, HOOKER & YOUNG WYNYARD “I’d worked at Hooker & Young for years and had always been tempted to go it alone but didn’t necessarily want my own salon, so I made a big decision and went freelance. After a couple of years I just missed the team I was in before and the stability of salon life. “The bit I found most difficult about being freelance was that you just can’t ever switch off. Holidays become an issue as you’re losing money and also you get clients calling and texting while you’re away so you never feel like you get any downtime. Because of this it ends up becoming just about the money as opposed to the job. “I’ve always loved hairdressing and being creative, but it soon becomes a numbers game and all you’re thinking about is getting in as many people as possible, so you can’t turn anyone anyway and end up working all hours. Not to mention having to do taxes on your own! “Being back in the salon feels so much more secure. Even silly things like the fact that you feel you can compliment those working around you and get compliments back – if you’re chair renting you don’t have that rapport with the others. It’s lovely having that ‘team bubble’ around you and feeling like you have support on difficult days.” CREATIVE HEAD
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For the ďŹ rst time ever, more than half of UK hair professionals are
SELF-EMPLOYED
*
SELF/STYLED is here to help From business management advice to marketing help, new opportunities to essential education, SELF/STYLED is packed with the help independent stylists need
creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled Launches 4 July 2019 *Source: NHF/NBF
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Resources, ideas, advice and inspiration for self-employed hair pros
*Source: National Hairdressers Federation
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Roz Colthart
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THE US HAS witnessed the growth of the salon suite movement – a ready-made, white label small salon to rent alongside others, where stylists pay a set fee to run their own business. With the increase in UK selfemployment, could this format take hold? Yes, argues Roz Colthart, who this month unveils Salon Studios in Edinburgh – six salon spaces under one roof. This caters to people looking to be independent salon owners but who are put off by high upfront and ongoing costs. Under Roz’s model, there are two options: if you commit to a year, you pay £250 a week, which covers the studio and all of the utilities. Stylists bring their clients, their products, their insurance and their payment provider. If you’d rather test it out first, it’s £275 a week to have the space for three months. Where’s all the buzz and vibrancy that clients and staff feed from? It’s a subject Roz covered researching in the US, and argues that this model offers a more personalised service. “Those who had reservations about missing out on the social side discovered they built stronger connections with other salon owners through sharing stories and support,” she says, adding that she may offer larger units to rent in the future. CREATIVE HEAD
19/06/2019 16:59
AS AN INDEPENDENT STYLIST, you’re in charge of precisely what tools you use, stocking your kitbag with essentials for whatever you’re called on to deliver, whether you’re hitting the road on your mobile round or styling up a storm in a salon co-op. Yes, there’s freedom, but there are also costs to consider, and a veritable merry-go-round of new launches that can make a serious dent in your coffers. Do you have everything you need? If it’s time to reboot your bag, let us offer a helping hand – we’ve pulled together a mix of affordable and investment pieces, covering the kitbag essentials that you’ll need on hand to tackle any challenge you encounter. From dryers and stylers, to clippers and brushes, this should help you revamp a tired kit, or help new indie stylists assemble a solid foundation on which to build. This kit is lit… CREATIVE HEAD
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Diva Pro
ENSURE YOUR KITBAG IS READY TO DELIVER WHEREVER YOU’RE WORKING, BE IT YOUR CHAIR IN A BUSY SALON, YOUR CLIENT’S HOUSE OR BACKSTAGE ON A SHOOT
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DRYERS
The affordable Diva Pro Styling Prima 3000 Pro has everything you need for a brilliant blow-dry. £49.99, divapro.co.uk
It’s an investment piece, but fans of the Dyson Supersonic Professional love the results. £275, 0800 3457788
An updated classic – the Parlux Alyon boasts a Hair-Free System to clean the back of the dryer quickly. £129.95, parlux.co.uk
The keratin-infused ceramic plates in the Diva Pro Precious Metals Touch Straightener give hair a sleek finish. £129.99, divapro.co.uk
Pricier but versatile and a firm client favourite, the ghd platinum + can smooth, wave, curl, the lot. £115, ghdhair.com
If texture and definition is what you want, ultra-fine, tapered The Micro Wand from Cloud Nine is ideal. £109, professional.cloudninehair.com
The BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Waving Wand has an extra-long barrel, heats up to 210°C. £65, babylisspro.co.uk
STYLERS
The Electric Head Jog Vibe Titanium Straightener has vibrating plates and a high ionic output for softer hair. £39.99, salonsdirect.com
WANDS
The Diva Pro Styling Digital Tong 32mm tong is perfect for creating both loose waves and tighter curls. £49.99, divapro.co.uk
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POWER UP IT CAN SOMETIMES FEEL like an impossible task when you set out on a new freelancing career. Starting from scratch comes with a milelong list of things to do, including building up your own kit. From scissors to styling products, the costs can quickly mount up. The Diva Pro Prima 3000 Pro Collection gives a professional, sleek finish to hair without a hefty price tag. The 2,000w AC long-life motor will see you through 1,000+ hours of bouncy blow-drys and keeps you powered up from one client to the next. The in-built ionic system helps to SAVE reduce frizz and flyaways and features a true 20 PER CENT* cold shot to set your styles in place. Create WITH THE CODE glossy, smooth and bespoke blow-drys thanks
PRIMA20
to three heat settings and two speed settings. You can weave your way effortlessly around your space with a three-metre salon length cable, and you don’t need to worry about any jobs abroad thanks to a UK/EU adaptor. The sound softener or standard rear grille are also removable for cleaning, so you can keep your tool in tip-top condition at all times. Lightweight and affordable while remaining sleek and stylish, the Diva Pro Prima 3000 Pro Collection also comes in four colour options to make sure you show up to any job looking on top of the game.
Turn up the heat with the Diva Pro Prima 3000 Pro Collection. For more information, call 020 3393 9072 or visit divapro.co.uk
*Offer applicable on all colours across the Diva Pro Styling Prima 3000 Pro Collection, while stocks last. Valid until end of September 2019 exclusively at divapro.co.uk.
BLOW YOUR CLIENTS AWAY WITH THE DIVA PRO STYLING PRIMA 3000 PRO COLLECTION
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BRAIDS HAVE HAD a backseat for the past few seasons, but we’re glad to see them making a comeback – heaps of celebs are embracing everything from box braids to romantic tumbling French plaits, and they’re the perfect style for hot weather that needs to hold all day, whether that’s at a wedding or frolicking in a festival field! This fishtail braid from Tangle Teezer combines a classic technique with a modern, textured finish and bang up-to-date accessories. The Tangle Teezer Blow-Styling Smoothing Tool lays the foundation, before you introduce the texture and height with the Tangle Teezer Back-Combing Tool. Let’s untangle the process…
e r a s it a Pl t a s ’ it e wher
FROM WEDDING GUESTS TO FESTIVAL DEVOTEES, LET TANGLE TEEZER BE YOUR AID TO BRILLIANT BRAIDS AND HELP STEPUP YOUR DRYSTYLING SKILLS THIS SUMMER
r e m m Su Fresh
From combing out beach-swept snarls to smoothing through pooln wet hair, the Limited Editio act Textured Mermaid Comp their e on ery ev e Stylers can giv sun the in mermaid moment
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
STEP ONE
Prep hair with the Blow-Styling Smoothing Tool to achieve the smooth texture you need to be able to manipulate the hair. Pick up locks at the root as you dry – the tool won’t pull or stretch hair.
STEP THREE
Start to backcomb the hair from the bottom of the middle panel. Take horizontal sections and backcomb each one with the BackCombing Tool until you reach just above the crown.
STEP FIVE
Create a second fishtail braid with the remaining section of hair underneath to overlap with the first fishtail braid until you reach the ends. Secure again with a small, transparent band.
STEP TWO
Section the hair, starting with a horizontal section from ear to ear. Divide that into two and isolate the lower part to prevent tangling. Divide the top section by three to create a panel.
STEP FOUR
Begin to fishtail braid the hair from just below the crown to the nape area. Secure with a small, transparent hair band.
STEP SIX
Loosen and texturise the braid, and detail the hairline for a relaxed, wearable summer look. Add an accessory for a modern finish.
For more information on stocking and styling options contact sales@tangleteezer.com, or call 020 7738 4458 to find your nearest distributor CREATIVE HEAD
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BRUSHES
Be ready for any hair type with these Tangle Teezers – the Fine & Fragile, the Thick & Curly and The Original. £11 each, sales@tangleteezer.com
The ceramic-coated head of the Kent Salon KS11 brush heats up quickly and holds heat evenly. £12.50, 01442 232623
The Tangle Teezer Blow-Styling Smoothing Tool has innovative teeth to stop hair being pulled. £20, sales@tangleteezer.com
The Wahl Chrome Super Taper combo pack includes a mains clipper and a cordless trimmer. £49.99, salon-services.com
Get more bang for your buck with the all in one CTC clipper/trimer from Andis – it’s light and comfy. £95.99, 01635 279824
Sibel’s multi-storage Hairdressing Holdall has space for all of your tools – ideal for racing between jobs. £18, salon-services.com
Ammonia- and bleach-free, keep Zalon Colour Remover on hand for a healthy way to remove colour. From £10, salonsdirect.com
CLIPPERS
The cordless BaByliss PRO V-Blade Lithium Clipper has Japanese steel blades with a sharp V cutting angle. £100; babylisspro.co.uk
ESSENTIALS
For a precise cut on wet hair, these Jaguar White Line Charm Thinner scissors feature a serrated blade. £79.79, salon-services.com
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A PRISM LIGHT DANCES ACROSS IRIDESCENCE IN THE LATEST COLLECTION FROM STIL SALON, CELEBRATING AND ILLUMINATING THE INTERPLAY OF COLOUR AND MOVEMENT PHOTOGR APHY BY ALEX BARRON-HOUGH CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Christel Lundqvist, Tomokai and the STIL team. MAKE-UP Katie Moore. STYLING Clare Frith
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Remake remodel
In Deconstruction, shot for Creative HEAD and supported by BaByliss PRO, Sam Burnett and the HARE & BONE Art Team explore editorial hair in its stages of preparation and finish PHOTOGR APHY BY RIO ROMAINE CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR The HARE & BONE Art Team. CREATIVE DIRECTION Sam Burnett. STYLING Masha Mombelli. MAKE-UP Bea Sweet. SUPPORT BaByliss PRO
Scene Nicole Iroh
Paul Davey
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
TAP Talent on
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK 2019 shone the spotlight on the freshest designers as the fashion industry gathered together to celebrate emerging design talent. Spread across five days of showcases, catwalks and everything in between, East London’s Truman Brewery was buzzing with inspiration and ideas as 40 universities from around the world presented the latest collections from their graduates. On hand backstage was the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Team, led by Paul Davey of Davey Davey and Nicole Iroh from Headmasters. Together they created ballerina buns and super-slick ponytails, tied with gold ribbon for the GFW Gala Award Show.
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Fredrik Tjærandsen
Jack Merrick-Thirlway
PUMP
THE CENTRAL SAINT Martins BA show is one of the most important events in the fashion calendar – it’s the place to discover fashion’s next big thing and alumni include Molly Goddard and Grace Wales Bonner. As titans of the fashion industry gathered together, all eyes were on the 43 collections that had been designed by final-year students who brought a fresh, creative energy to the catwalk. Highlights included Fredrik Tjærandsen’s wearable balloon collection, which was chosen as the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award... and got all the fashion editors and bloggers gasping. Working with the students backstage was the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Team led by Jack Merrick-Thirlway from Neville Hair & Beauty, who took inspiration from each collection to create unique final looks, which included wigs and hairpieces.
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Fredrik Tjærandsen with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Monica Teodoro
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Miss Made liene Murph y workin g behind the scenes for our latest collection
Show preparation in Cyprus
Pedro in action‌
In the
Vibrant lime green hair by @evieskaros-enasalon working her magic!
frame Johnny Othona and Pedro Inchenko from @alliloneducation and @enasalon, snap away
Th e lovely Ha rriet showin g us exa ctly how it’s don e, on sta ge in Ro ma nia
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@yoha n-nicolas on stage for the World Wide Hair tour in Icelan d
Our brilliant models on stage at World Wide Hair in Iceland 86
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From our recent trip to Norway
d. Joh nny an d Ped ro on sta ge in Ice lan Wh at an #a ma zin g show
This is the bea utif ul face behind our hom em ad e treats! Th an k you Fra nce ssca CREATIVE HEAD
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