head JUNE 2013
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c r e a t i v e
C r e at i v e H e a d June 2013
The art of
perfect
hair
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Kérastase,
The art of perfect hair since
1964
For almost 50 years, Kérastase, the hair expert, has pursued a unique mission: turning hair into the most precious beauty asset of a woman. Today, inspired by women’s determination to be beautiful in their own unique way, demanding of the finest quality, Kérastase innovates with couture hairstyling.
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Kérastase unveils…
Couture Styling
A collection of products designed to reinvent styling and bring hair to new heights of beauty. A technological breakthrough that will change the way styling is perceived, with superb ease of use and innovative new textures that delight the senses.
Irresistible, sensual – the emotional appeal of a beautiful, touchable feel
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An inspired guide Master hairdresser Luigi Murenu was born in Sardinia in 1964, the same year Kérastase was born – a remarkable coincidence for a man who is constantly moving forward. Luigi’s styles evoke movement – curves, spirals, shapes – and they’re never stiff. His vibrant looks are full of life and beauty, infused with his incredible creative energy. Kérastase chose Luigi Murenu because he is a hair artisan: his hairstyles are sophisticated and dynamic, crafted with unique precision.
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Luigi
Murenu
Artistic Director for KĂŠrastase Couture Styling
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Product names inspired by the world of couture…
Forme Fatale Mousse Bouffante Boucles d’ A rt Lift Vertige Gloss Appeal Laque Couture SprayTouche à Porter Finale
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An iconic
spokeswoman:
Kate
Moss In Luigi Murenu’s skilful hands, using Kérastase Couture Styling products, whether sculpted, flowing freely or pulled back in an androgynous twist… Kate’s hair looks free and expressive, just like the supermodel herself.
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Couture styling products KĂŠrastase Couture Styling reinvents textures with a luxurious touch. Unique technology delivers subtle, flexible hold that offers complete freedom of movement and a more natural look and feel.
A technological breakthrough – long-lasting fusional hold 1 3 2
Powersoft to combine fusional hold and perfect freedom of movement. New-generation micronised polymers coat the fibre with a stretchable mesh that holds without freezing. Protective agents to preserve the fibre. Anti-oxidant Vitamin E. Colour-protective UV filters. Heat-protective Xylose.
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Pleasant textures inspired by skincare. Light and unctuous textures. Clean touch without residue. Delicate fragrance.
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Waves the seaside look in the city spray à porter
Tousled effect spray
Construction – To shape… 16pp Kerastase Insert_GW24 14
Luigi’s Touch Spread through toweldried hair and crush with the hands to create soft waves. On dry hair, spray in short bursts 15cms from the head and style with the fingertips.
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Volume
s
Blowdry
the the the the curl hair volume blow-dry designer stiletto overdose maestro boucles d’art
lift vertige
Aqua-mousse designer curls
Root uplifting gel
Luigi’s Touch
Luigi’s Touch
Apply a small amount to towel-dried hair. Untangle and let the hair dry naturally or use a hairdryer for a more airy style.
Apply to towel-dried hair in small amounts and lift roots with a brush or comb while blow-drying.
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mousse bouffante Lush volumising mousse
Luigi’s Touch Shake well before using, then spread the mousse along the entire length of the hair before blow-drying.
forme fatale
Voluptuous blow-dry gel
Luigi’s Touch Gently melt into toweldried hair and lift the roots while blow-drying.
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Finition – To finish 16pp Kerastase Insert_GW24 16
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Shine the glamour spark touche finale
Polishing serum
Luigi’s Touch Apply one or two doses to towel-dried hair and blow-dry.
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the haute couture musthave laque couture
Fusional fixing lacquer
Luigi’s Touch Spray an aura around the head from a distance of about 20cm. Use on dry hair, or before drying to construct and set the desired style.
the top coat polish spray gloss appeal
Instant shine top coat
Luigi’s Touch Spray in successive bursts on dry hair. Use the fingers to obtain the desired results.
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“Kérastase Couture Styling is
the best thing that’s happened to Kérastase for many, many years. It feels like a complete offer now – there’s haircare, treatments and styling;
you’ve got everything you want under one brand. The Kérastase Couture Styling consumer is timeless – it’s every woman who loves quality
and loves luxury,
but who also has a strong fashion sense as well.” Kérastase Ambassador – Luke Hersheson
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In front of a packed audience – with Muse for Kérastase, Kate Moss, in attendance – unique technology, light textures and desirable products come together with the team’s personalized approach beautifully to
demonstrate the art of perfect hair…
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One Mayfair, London An exclusive team of iconic
KĂŠrastase Couture Styling K Stylist Ambassadors usher in a luxury couture approach to hairstyling.
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Enter the era of
KĂŠrastase Couture Styling. To find out more, email kerastasecouturestyling@uk.loreal.com or visit www.kerastase.co.uk
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Ken Picton
Ken Picton
“I wanted to create beautiful looks with lovely movement at the roots. Lift Vertige is a completely new product that gives a real delicate, sensual feel to the hair.”
the hair stiletto lift vertige
Root uplifting gel
This ultra-soft transparent gel delivers bluffing volume support for roots. Distribute evenly at the roots, then blow-dry. stylist tip
Warm in the hands before applying to hair.
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Leo Bancroft Leo Bancroft
“Kérastase Couture Styling opens up a whole new world of hair perfection, and it’s limitless. It’s light to use, it smells fantastic, it’s very pliable and it remembers what I implement into the hair – almost unbelievably so.”
stylist tip
Smooth a drop over blow-dried hair to tame flyaways while adding control and definition.
the blow-dry maestro forme fatale Voluptuous
blow-dry gel
An innovative blow-dry gel that perfectly shapes hair with a longlasting result. Distribute evenly then style with a hairdryer, fingers or a curling iron.
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Johanna Cree Brown
Trevor Sorbie “I loved working with Gloss Appeal – I sprayed it all over the hair and used a diffuser to set it into the hair. It gave an incredible shine.”
the top coat polish spray
gloss appeal
Instant shine top coat
Ensure a couture finish to every style with this instant shine top coat for hair. Spray a small amount on lengths and ends to give a mirror-like shine. stylist tip
Spray 8-12 inches from hair. Infuse with cold air for more shine.
Paul Edmonds
Paul Edmonds “Kérastase Couture Styling is perfect for my clientele – it’s luxurious and it gives women the hair they’ve always wanted.”
the glamour spark touche finale Polishing serum
Illuminate lengths with perfect shine definition and long-lasting antifrizz control. Apply to blow-dried hair, strand by strand, and detail with the fingertips.
stylist tip
Use just a touch before blow-drying to detangle the hair.
stylist tip
Use any time to refresh or tame a style.
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Jason Miller
Stephen Low
Charlie Miller
Nevilles
“What’s really exciting about Kérastase Couture Styling is that there’s something specific in the range for every type of style, and that’s great for us as hairdressers.”
“Kérastase Couture Styling is a full range that can give you so many different textures and looks, and all with a totally modern touch and that beautiful, luxurious Kérastase finish.”
the volume overdose mousse bouffante Lush volumising mousse
A lush volumising mousse that gives bouffant hair from roots to tip, with a natural and lively effect. Apply a small amount to roots and lengths, then blow-dry. stylist tip
Can be applied before spray á porter for an abundant, wavy look.
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the curl designer boucles d’art Aqua-mousse designer curls
An airy, lightweight aquamousse that creates flexible, shiny curls that move naturally. Apply along the lengths of the hair, then blow-dry or allow to dry naturally. stylist tip
Run your hands through the hair when drying to avoid a crunchy feel.
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Dylan Bradshaw
Dylan Bradshaw
Skyler McDonald Sean Hanna
“Clients will use Kérastase Couture Styling and they will love it, because it delivers beautiful hold but with the luxury you associate with the Kérastase brand.”
“With Kérastase Couture Styling, less is more, so you simply add product as you go along to amplify the hair, whether you want to create volume, define curls or add texture.”
the seaside look in the city spray à porter Tousled effect spray
Create tousled, matte-finish, “beach-effect” waves without stickiness. Spray on damp or dry hair and dry while shaping waves with your hands. stylist tip
Apply mousse bouffante beforehand for more volume.
the haute couture musthave
laque couture
Fusional fixing lacquer
Sets the hair without stiffness, creating a touchable, sensual finish. On dry, styled hair spray from a distance of 10 to 15cms as a final touch. stylist tip
Excellent with heat tools for setting.
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50 1963/2013
50 1963/2013
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CELEBRATES 50 YEARS HAIR – FASHION – HERITAGE TONI&GUY HAS LONG BEEN RENOWNED AS AN INNOVATOR WITHIN THE HAIR INDUSTRY, BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN HIGH FASHION AND HAIRDRESSING AND 2013 MARKS THE FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY OF THIS ICONIC BRITISH HAIRDRESSING COMPANY. 18 seasons strong, the TONI&GUY Session Team now create the hair for over 80 designers/shows each year, across the schedule, and share their experiences backstage through TONI&GUY’s innovative course offering. From the high fashion focus of the Creative Cut and Colour course, to the innovative Men’s Styling, or the sheer artistry of the Avant Garde – the team take their unique experience working backstage to create inspiring hairdressing techniques to both educate and excite the hairdresser. With a heritage firmly based in education and nurturing hairdressing talent, our multi-award-winning International Artistic Team will personally guide you throughout unique course offering –
CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF EDUCATED EXCELLENCE
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CREATIVE CUTTING AND COLOURING
This course really is the ultimate example of TONI&GUY creative thinking at its best. Created to accommodate new fashion trends in hair this highly motivational course is the perfect vehicle for learning ground breaking techniques as they develop and is personally taught by the International Artistic Team.
MENS
This course is designed to strengthen your technique in Men’s Hairdressing whilst giving an insight into how the TONI&GUY International Artistic Team push boundaries with regards to men’s fashion and male cutting techniques. Incorporating growing trends in men’s hairdressing, influences from pop and rock musicians, actors and high fashion, and of course, how to translate these influences into wearable techniques.
AVANT GARDE
A course aimed at pushing the advanced hairdresser with an emphasis on creative expression and experimentation. You will be taken from the fundamentals of this art through to the complexity of creating bespoke hairpieces for session and photographic work.
For more information on TONI&GUY EDUCATION or to book a course visit www.toniandguy.com or contact the TONI&GUY London Academy T : 020 7836 0606 E : courses@toniandguy.co.uk
www.toniandguy.com
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EDITOR’S LETTER
June
CREATIVE HEAD
39
90
AN EFFECTIVE SALON knows its clients. It’s only once you get inside their heads and understand exactly what they want that you can effectively provide them with services that will thrill. This month we’ve taken the work out of second-guessing your clientele by conducting our very own survey of 500 female consumers. Turn to page 64 to find out the results and use them to wow the women in your salon. One man who makes it his mission to extract the truth from his clients is scissor king Gianni Scumaci. Softly spoken and unassuming, it only takes a few minutes in his company to realise how much passion and talent is bubbling beneath the surface. Read our profi le from page 90 and learn what it takes to rise to the top. Talking of rising stars, I’m excited to announce that the 2013 Most Wanted and It List Grand Final is to be held at London’s Natural History Museum – a party with the dinosaurs, oh yes – and tickets are now available, so get yours quick! See page 14 for more information.
Lauren
119
ON MY RADAR App TIMEHOP
What did you do one year ago today? Timehop allows you to see photos and updates from this exact day in history. It’s an instant reminder of how far you’ve come.
Book BE AWESOME: MODERN LIFE FOR MODERN LADIES
For all the ladies out there who simply want to be great, this unfalteringly hilarious account by Guardian writer Hadley Freeman tackles body image, dating and feminism head on!
Film
LAUREN MARGRAVE lauren@headmag.co.uk Visit Creativeheadmag.com, follow @creativeheadmag on Twitter Find us on Facebook, search ‘Creative HEAD magazine’
THE IMPOSSIBLE
A powerful but harrowing film, you’re going to need a box of tissues and a cushion to hide behind to watch this story of a family’s ordeal in Thailand during the tsunami of 2004.
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CONTENTS
June
What’s INSIDE 13 _ THE SOURCE
Male market booms for salons and The It List winners enjoy a day out with ghd’s Zoë Irwin The Fellowship announces a new president, Matrix hits the road and Aveda has a green gala
75 _ SUBSCRIBE NOW... And you’ll receive a free gift from Alterna, worth £58
56 SALON SMART
The best event yet; business networking weekend Salon Smart wows London
64 _ WHAT WOMEN WANT
If you want to become your client’s best friend forever, deliver the services she really wants
90 _ GIANNI SCUMACI
Hair auteur Gianni Scumaci lets us into his world of incredible style
102 _ SHOULD I STAY OR GO?
We reveal the best ways to keep your clients and your staff in the salon with our retention special
FASHION _ ALL WOMAN 120 Alison Dace leads the Saks Art Team to the top of clients’ wish lists with these versatile looks 124 _ CROSS TO BEAR Joe Causier isn’t afraid to break from convention with his collection of grunge and ethereal beauty
£4.50 JUNE 2013
Saks Art Team
The art of
perfect
hair
Editor
LAUREN MARGRAVE Alfol_Egg_stage4.indd 4
Art director
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NICK JABBAL GRAEME WHITE Chief sub editor
ADAM WOOD Feature writer
Editorial intern
AMY WOOD Online editor
RACHAEL BRIDGE Advertising manager
BEN BALDOCK Classified executive
DAVID HAMMOND
FEATURES
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BETH DAVIE
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ON THE COVER Hair Luigi Murenu for Kérastase Couture Styling Photography Sølve Sundsbø
Special projects manager
JOANNA ANDERSEN Editor in chief
AMANDA NOTTAGE Publisher
CATHERINE HANDCOCK Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
WRITE TO US AT: CREATIVE HEAD, 21 THE TIMBERYARD, DRYSDALE STREET, LONDON, N1 6ND. T: 020 7324 7540 E: enquiries@headmag.co.uk Go online to www.creativeheadmag.com find ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ on Facebook or follow us on Twitter: @creativeheadmag, @HairNewsUpdate Download the Creative HEAD App here: Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by ALFOL Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
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source THE
DYLAN BRITTAIN AND HIS RISKY BUSINESS DECISION Page 28
Elajé Homme
NEWS, PRODUCTS, BUSINESS KNOW-HOW AND INTERIORS IT ALL STARTS HERE…
▼ ▼
June 2013
MALE MARKET BOOM GIVES UK SALONS A HELPING HAND target this sector of the market and have noticed a significant increase. We’ve turned a zone of the salon into Elajé Homme and, since launching this, our male clientele has increased from 15 per cent to 25 per cent of our client base.” The survey of more than 2,600 industry professionals also highlighted that, thanks in part to the buoyancy of the male market, one in five hair and beauty salons plan to hire new staff this year. Business was reported to be strongest in London and the North East, with full-time employees in London increasing from an average of 2.5 in 2011 to 5.9 in 2012, while in the North East, full-time and part-time employee numbers each rose by 2.2, from 1.6 and 1.3 in 2011 respectively. JAN
However, the increased competition in the male market and continuing tough economic conditions has led to salons cutting prices in the past year. The average price for a men’s haircut is now £16, down from £19 in 2011. Nationally, prices for other popular male treatments, such as massage, hair removal and skin treatments, have also fallen. Acknowledging the importance of the male market in the UK hair and beauty industry, and to support this growing market, Salon Services is set to launch its first National Men’s Grooming Day campaign this summer. For the latest catwalk trends for male clients, check out the images from London Collections: Men, by visiting Creativeheadmag.com this month.
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THE GROWTH OF THE MALE MARKET is giving hair and beauty salons in the UK much-needed revenue, with 53 per cent of salons recording an increase in male customers in the past year, according to a report from Salon Services. In its second annual Beautiful Britain survey, the professional hair and beauty supplier noted that more and more men were not only getting a haircut, they were getting beauty treatments, too, with 59 per cent of salons across the UK predicting that the next big beauty trend for men will be ‘MANicures’ and many planning to expand their services accordingly. Julia Gaudio, director of Elajé Hair & Beauty in Cambridge, said: “We made an active decision to
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▼ ▼
Natural History Museum
the latest news from the industry
exclusive
Most Wanted and It List venue revealed! Creative HEAD can exclusively reveal that the venue for this year’s Most Wanted and It List Grand Final is the Natural History Museum in South Kensington, London. With its cathedral-like structure, frescoes and sculptures (not to mention a 26-metre dinosaur), the museum promises to be a fantastic backdrop to the annual awards. Joanna Andersen, special projects manager for Alfol, publisher of Creative HEAD, said: “Last year’s venue was truly amazing, but we’re never ones to rest on our laurels and as soon as we stepped
Making a difference
inside the museum we knew it was the one. This venue has held many events over the years so it’s got the experience as well as the space and the magnificence we need when it comes to creating a memorable experience for our guests!” Book your tickets now by calling 01434 610940 and be wined and dined next to the museum’s famous Diplodocus. Tickets include all food, drink and entertainment, and are priced at £210 each or £1,900 for a table of 10. Visit Creativeheadmag.com/events to find out more
The salons walking, running and pedalling to raise funds and awareness for charities
This sporting life
city break
The Wahl UK team is gearing up for this year’s 10km Race for Life, which raises money for Cancer Research UK. Taking place on 30 June, the team has been organising training sessions and is asking everyone to contribute what they can by visiting Raceforlifesponsorme.org/ wahl-uk-ltd.
Jamie Hill of Swansea’s Jamie Hill Hairdressing is doing the 645-mile Paris 2 Barcelona bike ride, in association with Wave 96.4FM and South Wales Evening Post, to raise funds for Maggie’s Cancer Caring Centres. “This is an incredible charity and it deserves our support,” he said.
point to point
Rajinder Sethi of Barrie Stephen Hair is doing a 10-mile run for Shaping Futures, the social initiative run by Schwarzkopf Professional. Rajinder will be running between two of Leicester’s most famous landmarks, the war memorial near the city and Old John tower in Bradgate Park.
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Matthew Sutcliffe, Zoë Irwin, Richard Phillipart and Natalia Maxwell, image courtesy of Ashley Martin
TrendVision regional heat
NEWS JUNE
Zoë Irwin gives It List winners crucial insights at mentor day
The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award judges have chosen 180 competitors to go through to the Regional Finals, taking place across the country this month. The Regional Finals will see 100 competitors in the Young Talent category and 80 in the Color category showcase their looks in catwalk evening shows, based on their interpretation of one of the four trends: Fusion, Decibel, Echo and Allegra. The judges for the Young Talent category included Darren Ambrose of D&J Ambrose, Francesca Saville of Taylor Taylor and Lacey Hawkins of Percy & Reed. Color Category judges included Leona Curran of Sassoon, Jayson Gray of Toni&Guy and Faye Turner of HOB Academy. The Regional Finals will also see Bruce Masefield and Edward Darley present the latest Sassoon collection, while a selection of industry icons will present a show using Wella Professionals’ new Color.id service. The Regional Final winners will go on to compete in the UK and Ireland Final, which takes place on 7 October at the Roundhouse in Camden, London.
Gary Gill joins Emotive Hair
hunt begins for world’s best stylist Hair and beauty brand La Biosthétique has opened its international Beauty Stylist 2013 competition in a bid to find the most talented hairdressers from around the world. This year, there is just one category to enter, incorporating last year’s cut and colour awards as well as styling and make-up, and entrants will be judged on the overall total beauty look. The UK winner will join other countries’ champions at a grand final in Paris on 29 September, where they will compete for the international Beauty Stylist award, including the prize of an exclusive workshop and professional photoshoot with La Biosthétique’s international creative director, Alex Dinter. For more information, visit Biosthetique.co.uk JAN
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Surrey-based salon Emotive Hair has appointed Gary Gill as its new artistic director. Formerly the creative director of Monroe Hairdressing, he joins forces with long-term friend and managing director of Emotive, Ray Bolton. Gary will carry on his relationship with Wella Professionals as part of its guest artist team and will continue to balance his session work schedule with directing the creative profile of Emotive Hair. In 1986 Gary founded Monroe Hairdressing with business partner Kay Knight, directing the company until 2002 when it was sold, although he stayed on to direct specialised education initiatives for the company.
Last year’s winners, Dmitry Oskin and Tamika Stavroulis, with Alex Dinter
TrendVision finalists take to the regions
The It List 2012 winners have enjoyed a mentoring day with renowned session stylist and Most Wanted HAIR ICON 2012, Zoë Irwin. The day saw IT GIRL Natalia Maxwell from George’s Hairdressing, IT GUY Matthew Sutcliffe from Westrow, and ENTREPRENEUR Richard Phillipart from The Boutique Salon & Spa, receive exclusive mentoring and tutelage from Zoë. Taking place at the VIP Grand Salon in The Mayfair House, London, the day began with the ghd creative director providing an insight into the world of editorial hairdressing, and in the afternoon, the three It Listers were given the opportunity to get creative and follow a magazine brief. Matthew, Richard and Natalia were charged with creating a look inspired by a mix of Stepford Wives and rockabilly, as seen at the Aminaka Wilmont S/S13 show at London Fashion Week and created by ghd. Zoë said: “It was such a wonderful day that I feel proud to have been part of. I’ve given them a list of books and films to get as long as my arm so that should keep them going for a while! They showed the very best of what the It List is all about.” To win a shoot with Zoë and ghd, turn to page 44
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Members of the team in action
▼ ▼
the latest news from the industry
Breakthrough Team Xtra enjoys first shoot The 2013 Breakthrough Team Xtra has completed its first editorial shoot, which was shot on the roof of the Toni&Guy Academy, in London. Photographed by David Mannah, the theme was ’90s grunge with a distinct style: current, fashionforward and ultra-cool. The team members – Roger Cho, Rachel Bartlett, Hayley Bishop, Chelsea Jenkins, Georgie Mathers, Karen Murray, Jamie Devenish, Choloe Digby, Pascale Mel Revell,
Sabrina Lefebvre, Iwona Szeruga and Naomi Ayodele – were divided into six pairs, with each duo working on a different model. Hayley Bishop said: “We’ve made it clear that we want to create a brand identity for the team that will be carried through for years to come.” Led by Toni&Guy’s Art Team, Breakthrough Team Xtra is a search to discover some of the company’s most talented hairdressers, in association with L’Oréal Professionnel.
HOB Man receives retail award
Habia launches skin cancer awareness drive
HOB Man at Brent Cross has won a retail excellence award from the British Council of Shopping Centres (BCSC) at a special breakfast ceremony. The BCSC Opal Award was launched by the retail property trade body this year and recognises excellence in commercial activity taking place in malls in UK shopping centres. HOB Man franchisee Adam Carvin, said: “It is an honour to be the only business in the whole of Brent Cross shopping mall being put forward for this when we only opened last year. With careful design and planning, it all came together. The team and I are thrilled.”
The Habia Skills Academy is asking hair and beauty professionals to remember their ABCDE this summer – the five steps to identifying skin cancer. The five steps of the ABCDE are: Asymmetry: normal moles or freckles are symmetrical; Border: a mole or spot with blurry and/or jagged edges could be the beginning of melanoma; Colour: a mole that is more than one hue is suspicious and needs to be evaluated by a doctor; Diameter: if it is larger than a quarter-inch or 6mm, it needs to be examined by a doctor, and Elevation: if the mole is raised and has an uneven surface it needs to be examined. The Academy is publishing packs for salons that will help educate staff about the signs of skin cancer and raise awareness among clients.
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15/5/13 10:18:24
DAVINES UK - 5 GREAT QUEEN STREET, LONDON, WC2B 5DG INFOUK@DAVINES.IT - TEL. 020 3301 5449 WWW.DAVINES.COM WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/DAVINESOFFICIAL
OI / ALL IN ONE MILK MULTIBENEFIT BEAUTY TREATMENT FOR ALL KINDS OF HAIR WITH ROUCOU OIL
DAVINES ESSENTIAL HAIRCARE IS A LINE WITH ZERO IMPACT PACK AGING 速
THE GOAL OF LIFE IS TO MAKE YOUR HEARTBEAT MATCH THE BEAT OF THE UNIVERSE, TO MATCH YOUR NATURE WITH NATURE. In honour of J. Campbell
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the latest news from the industry
My month ahead What does June have in store for…
Allison and Nicholas Ford
Frieda leads cycle challenge
More than 100 Lycra-clad stylists took to the roads of Ibiza for the 2013 HAIRraising bike ride, in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital. Organised by John Frieda, the 190km ride took in beaches, as well as punishing hills, and raised more than £200,000 to help build a new respiratory ward at the world-famous hospital. For more images, log on to Creativeheadmag.com
Tangle Teezer wins London innovation prize Tangle Teezer has won the HSBC London Regional Global Connections initiative, which aims to find the UK’s most innovative and forward-thinking companies. The detangling hair brand, along with Brompton Bicycle, was selected from six finalists. Held at London’s Banqueting House, the awards evening saw Tangle Teezer’s founder, Shaun Pulfrey, accept the award from ITV News presenter Katie Derham. These two London regional winners now go on to compete in the national Global Connections Final against eight other companies from around the UK, with the overall winner receiving up to £240,000.
If you only do one thing this month... Head to TIGI World Release at Old Billingsgate Market, London. Celebrating 10 years of Bed Head Studio and TIGI, this two-day event promises to inspire, educate and excite guests, with educational seminars, after parties and a finale show that’ll knock your socks off. Taking place 30 June and 1 July, call the TIGI booking hotline on 07885 629908 for details or email world.release@tigihaircare.com.
Abacus Hair We attended Salon Smart and it gave us the chance to take lots of advice from knowledgeable peers within our industry. So this month we’re trying to implement a great piece of advice from speaker Marcus Allen from Urban Retreat, about what our brand means to our team. We shall be speaking individually with all our team members to ensure they understand and have a clear vision of what is expected from them, and how important it is to maintain the standards we all strive to deliver.
Jason Miller
Charlie Miller Salon We are again supporting the Edinburgh International Film Festival (19 to 30 June) and, as a K Stylist, Kérastase Couture Styling products are first choice in the session bags for the celebs, talent and VIPs! Our hairdresser training night is focusing on the Kérastase Couture Styling range to coincide with a month-long retail sales promotion and we’ll be using social media for weekly giveaways. We also have team members preparing for a show in Shanghai in September.
Pedro Inchenko
Ena Salon There’s no respite for us this month as we focus heavily on education. Allilon – our education business – is full speed ahead. As well as welcoming students from South Africa and Poland, the team and I are travelling to Greece and Canada. Once this is done, it’s time for Go Ape – a team building day with our educators. After that, we’re filming with MyHairDressers.com and shooting two collections. Then, business partner Johnny Othona and I, are judging this year’s Most Wanted awards.
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•13-18_News 6
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Make hair sparkle NEW wonderfully light Mythic Oil Souffle d’Or by L’Oréal Professionnel The first shampoo and clear conditioner from L’Oréal Professionnel infused with golden, shimmering sparkles for beautiful-looking shine Lightweight nourishment for an airy touch, ideal for fine to normal hair. Enriched with precious argan and safflower oils and a captivating fragrance
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Creative Head
Promotion
Welcome to the family Souffle d’Or shampoo and conditioner join the hugely successful Mythic Oil collection from L’Oréal Professionnel – a complete range of indulgent, accessibly priced products. Take your clients on the complete Mythic Oil salon journey today!
1. Cleanse
2. Condition
The new, lightweight Souffle d’Or shampoo is ideal for cleansing fine to normal hair, while the original nourishing shampoo is perfect for normal to dry hair.
For a lighter touch, offer the new Souffle d’Or conditioner. Nourish normal to dry hair with Mythic Oil conditioner or use the Mythic Oil masque as an intensive nourishing treat.
3. Finish
+ Treat in-salon
Complete the Mythic Oil experience with a customised oil blend. Each blend targets specific haircare needs so your clients can find their perfect Mythic match.
Clients can experience a tailored, oil-enriched treatment exclusively in your salon, enjoying a moment of pure hair indulgence.
Contact your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager or call 0845 600 0122 for details
•Mythic Oil insert 3
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The Coterie
The members’ club where hair and fashion professionals can meet, listen, talk, connect, inspire and learn
Catch up on the latest hair and fashion gossip at www.facebook.com/thecoterieclub
The Coterie – Creative HEAD’s networking club for hair and fashion professionals Individual membership costs £160 per year • Group membership (three people) costs £320 per year 020 7739 7789 • creativeheadmag.com/events • @TheCoterie • facebook.com/thecoterieclub
•021_coterie 3
head c r e a t i v e
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New products, tools and colours
want it!
On the catwalk Making its debut this month, the Kérastase Couture Styling range features 8 styling products designed to bring catwalk style to the masses with more to follow later in the year. With Kate Moss as the face, the range is split into two groups – Construction and Finition – and features products designed to infuse the hair for a beautiful velvety effect, enabling any desired style to be achieved quickly and easily. A new generation of micronised fixative polymers create sublime hair with hold and freedom of movement, divine! RRP from £19.50 CALL 0800 316 4400
www.kerastase.co.uk
fine shine
Clients with fine hair may have sidestepped the oil revolution in recent years, but with the launch of System Professional’s Light Oil Spray, they can now get involved. The keratin protection spray instantly softens the hair surface, while the non-greasy formula transforms hair texture, protecting and smoothing with a luxurious yet weightless feel. The reconstructive formula contains a fusion of keratin, almond oil, jojoba oil and argan oil to leave locks looking nourished and radiant. RRP £18.50 CALL 01202 595700
www.systemprofessional.co.uk
Haute hemp
Hempz Couture, available at Salon Services, is a range of 19 products that doesn’t compromise on ethics. Containing pure organic hemp seed oil, which promotes keratin formation, the range includes haircare and styling to improve strength, condition and health of hair. RRP from £4.99 Call 0845 850 9974
www.salon-services.com
Tame tresses TAMEFRIZZ by KMS California instantly reduces frizz, with up to 100 per cent frizz reduction and humidity resistance for up to three days, no matter what your hair type. TAMEFRIZZ relies on a powerful fusion of technology and nature that works both internally and externally to tame frizz. And the pequi oil and acacia extracts produce smoother hair and enhance style manageability – so get in control! RRP from £12.70 Call 01323 413200
www.kmscalifornia.com
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NEWS JUNE
BUY ONLINE DAZZLING DEALS THIS MONTH AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SHOP
There’s a great range of discounted blades in the scissor sale, including the Glamtech Evo!
SUMMER SOS
Give clients’ hair a boost this summer with two amazing new treatments from Nioxin. DiaBoost works as an intensive leave-in treatment, increasing the thickness of each hair strand to strengthen and make it more resilient to breakage. Meanwhile the Deep Repair Hair Masque is the perfect post-holiday hydrator, featuring lightweight conditioning agents to protect hair against damage.
RRP FROM £19.50 CALL 020 7268 6117
www.nioxin.co.uk
SHIMMER AND SHINE Inspired by the original Mythic Oil, L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Mythic Oil Souffle d’Or Sparkling Shampoo and Conditioner are super-lightweight, providing nourishment for all hair types. The two products are infused with argan and safflower oils with golden shimmering sparkles, resulting in radiant glamour and sublime shine. RRP FROM £13 CALL 0800 072 6699
www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
SAVE! WAS £39 NOW £22.25
ROUND AND ROUND The hottest tool around – grab the BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl for wonderful waves.
HOT STOCK! £120
STEP INTO THE LIGHT Vivid highlights on deep base shades are now possible, thanks to Clynol Viton Meche. This product is formulated to lighten naturally dark or pre-coloured hair and contains a range of vibrant highlights, with five levels of lift in every shade. The preformat pigment mix and performing oil peroxide combine to boost the intensity of each colour in one effortless step. IN-SALON SERVICE CALL 01296 314000
HEAVEN HELP
*Terms and conditions apply
IN THE CUT
Detangling becomes a religious experience with Shine Angel, created by Richard Ward. TRY IT! FROM £7.30
TAX RELAX
All furniture is VAT free until the end of June* – we love the Alba Styling Chair in black. VAT FREE! £185
OIL IT UP
Alterna Haircare’s latest innovation is designed to strengthen and smooth the hair, without weighing it down. The Bamboo Smooth Kendi Oil Micromist is Alterna Haircare’s latest dry oil and contains its best-selling Kendi Oil ingredient for a sleek, frizz-free finish. On top of that, this multi-benefit hair oil provides intense hydration, boosts shine and acts as a finishing solution for all hair types. YOUR LAST VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM FOR BAMBOO KENDI DRY CHANCE TO GET A FREE ALTERNA T OIL OIL MICROMIST AND PURE TREATMEN
RRP £21.95 CALL 01925 578000
www.clynol.co.uk
www.alternahaircaire.com
PIMP YOUR CRIMP
Crimping is making a comeback, but gone are the days of the ’80s side pony – now it’s all about adding texture and interest to normally straight styles. In line with the latest fashion trends, Paul Mitchell has launched its Limited Edition Pro Tools Express Ion Crimp. Containing micro-crimping patterns for a unique texture, it’s made with negative ion technology to diffuse the hair shaft, leaving hair crimped and super-shiny. RRP £89.95 CALL 0845 659 0013
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www.paul-mitchell.co.uk
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ready to
TURN
HEADS.
Discover the new JOICO Available in leading salons across the UK For more information on JOICO products call 0845 071 2326 or visit www.joicoeurope.com
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4/26/13 11:15 AM
NEWS JUNE
BUSINESS BAROMETER
Your exclusive snapshot into UK salon performance, in association with Premier Software
to
Retail
sales accounted for an average of
salon business in
March. Is
April –
9.36
per cent of
the same figure as was reported in
there more that can be done to boost sales?
The retail display is situated:
68% • in reception 83% • at the workstation 21% • in the window
The average client purchases
1.48
retail items on each visit On average, each salon stocks
58%
of salons have more than one retail display area. All salons experiencing growth in retail have more than one retail area
Methodolog y: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
4.3 retail brands
22%
of salons do not regularly review their retail lines
APRIL – How was it for you? 1. How was business in April compared to March?
Declining 32%
2. How was business in April compared to the same time last year?
Declining 21% Growing 47%
Steady 6%
TOP TIP
In the current economic climate it’s vital to stay focused on all possible revenue streams. Traditionally, salons have a poor track record in selling products – but retail sales should be part of your overall strategy, not an impulse purchase that is left to the client. Salon management software allows you to quickly and easily record a client’s service history, as well as the products they have purchased. It should be part of your staff training to ensure these details are checked before the client arrives, and again at point of sale, enabling your team to talk about previous purchases and recommend new products. Some of you may provide your clients with samples or testers. If these are also added to the client’s record card, it makes it much easier for your staff to engage the customer in conversation about how they got on, and then turn this into an additional sale. If a product is out of stock, your system should be able to add the item against a client’s card, so that when stock is replenished it will automatically remind your reception team to contact the client. Cross-selling should not be limited to retail. When you introduce a new service or treatment, your system should be able to target specific groups of clients, offering the service at a discount. It’s surprising how effective this can be. Robert Miles, founder of Premier Software
Growing 63%
Steady 21%
www.premiersoftware.co.uk JAN
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Attention
Retail
Creative Head HEAD 25 14
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Here are our top three business-boosting tips for the month ahead TAKE PART
To coincide with the launch of ghd’s Soho studio, the brand has devised a new education offering for the rest of 2013. Divided into three knowledge zones – learning, fashion and inspiration – stylists can choose the right course or workshop to hone their skills. From a guide to the seasons trend workshop with session star Leigh-Anne Regan to a blow-dry masterclass with Most Wanted HAIR ICON 2012 Zoë Irwin (pictured inset), the new prospectus is a business boosting bible. Email seminars@ghdhair.com for more information or call 0845 331 133
READ
An oldie but a goodie, First, Break all the Rules explains why the best managers disregard conventional wisdom. A must-read for any business savvy salon owner, authors Marcus Buckingham and Curt Coffman distill the essence of good management into 12 simple questions that work to distinguish the strongest parts of a company from the rest. See how Marcus Allen, group head of salon at Urban Retreat at Harrods, has adapted the questions to suit his team on page 109
LOG ON
The Shout Lounge is an innovative social media application that can provide you with posts, tweets and pictures to post on your salon Facebook page, Twitter feed and other social media. Tailor-made to suit your audience, The Shout Lounge can take the hassle out of managing your social media outlets, providing you with relevant content that is ready to use on demand. Visit www.theshoutlounge.com
THINK IN NUMBERS
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The power of three
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business news, views and advice
nice and simple
When it comes to working out wages, keep things simple, recommends business expert Ken West
Throughout my years working with salon owners I have come across numerous over-complicated schemes for paying staff. Often, when I ask them ‘why do you pay your team this way?’, the answer I get is: ‘because this is the way we have always done it,’ or even: ‘because this is the way that we were paid when we worked for someone else.’ But, do their team truly understand the pay structure? And at the end of a pay period would they know exactly what to expect in their pay packet? Although many salon owners think that explaining the process to their staff during the interview process is sufficient, the reality is that when I ask the team members, they often have no idea. Now, if they don’t truly understand how they get paid then they also don’t understand what they need to do to earn more money. A truly effective pay scheme should be simple and understood by all. Only then can it be motivational to employees. ‘X per cent of this and Y per cent of that, plus A per cent here and B per cent there, and if you do this and that, then you will get this and that’ is too complicated for the team and the salon owner. And,
Guaranteed Minimum (Whichever is Greater)
if the salon owner leaves it all to a bookkeeper or accountant to figure out, then how can stylists understand how to improve their earnings? Instead, keep things simple and easy to understand. One way to do this is to pay your team a guaranteed minimum or a percentage of their net of VAT takings – whichever is greater. To borrow a meerkat phrase, “simples”. Once you have a scheme that is understood by all, then come up with clearly defined promotion criteria for career progression. The criteria – which must be based upon fact and not emotion – will allow a stylist to rise up through your price structure. They then know exactly what they need to do to earn promotion to another level. By gaining promotion to a higher price they can earn more money based upon their own achievements. A combination of a simple pay structure and clearly defined promotion criteria provides a clear path for your team to grow and have control over their destiny. Ken West is director of business coaching experts 3•6•5. Read more top advice from Ken in our Salon Smart coverage, from page 56
%
of
TAKINGS
Simple wages
(NET of VAT)
Creative Head HEAD 26 14
•26_Source Ken West 1
15/5/13 15:43:46
NEWS JUNE In association with
Backlash against minimum wage rise The National Hairdressers’ Federation has criticised the government’s decision to increase the national minimum wage (NMW) this autumn. The adult NMW will increase by 12p an hour to £6.31 from October, the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS) said in April. The rates for 18 to 20year-olds and 16 to 17-year-olds will also rise by 5p to £5.03 and 4p to £3.72 respecitvely, after being left unchanged last year. The apprentices’ NMW will go up, too, by 3p to £2.68 an hour, despite the Low Pay Commission, which recommends NMW rates, calling for this to be frozen for a year. Business secretary Vince Cable also indicated the government was looking at “a series of tough new measures to ensure we tackle non-compliance issues across the board”. Research by the BIS last year suggested nearly half of hairdressing apprentices were being paid less than the NMW, with hairdressing by far the worst industry for flouting low-pay legislation. Mark Coray, president of the NHF, said: “The government’s insistence on increasing apprentices’ wages is deeply disappointing. The clear evidence we have from our members is that the way it is structured – with over-19s only getting it for the first year of training and then moving on to the adult rate – is deterring salons from taking on apprentices, especially older trainees.”
NHF to tour country with employment law seminars The NHF is launching a series of employment law seminars around the country from July that will be open to non-member salon owners as well as Federation members. The seminars will be presented by experts from the NHF’s Legal Lifeline and will tackle key employment law challenges facing salon owners, including conduct, absence, redundancy and disciplinary procedures. The first two seminars are due to take place on 11 July in Norwich and Cambridge, with a third set for 29 July in York. Tickets are free for NHF members and £20 for non-NHF members. Salon owners interested in attending should contact events assistant Melanie Collins at Melanie.Collins@nhf.info.
Parking charges are bad for business Excessive charges and restrictive town centre parking laws are hitting salons hard, an exclusive poll of NHF members has revealed, with more than a quarter claiming to have seen 20 per cent of their business or more disappearing as a result. The online poll of nearly 150 salon owners commissioned by the NHF’s SalonFocus magazine identified widespread anger and frustration within the industry at the way parking rules and charges are being implemented and enforced by councils. The survey was prompted by the government setting up a Future High Streets Forum to look at ways to re-invigorate the high street, including the promotion of “parking solutions and good practice to help high streets attract more visitors”. While there are many factors behind the decline of our high streets, salon owners were clear that parking restrictions needed to be addressed. One salon owner commented: “Parking is the single biggest issue killing our town centres. Getting a ticket for just going five minutes over
puts negative thoughts into the mind of the shopper, who instead uses out-of-town centres with free parking all day. Town centre businesses are paying higher rates for no advantages.” A total of 83 per cent agreed parking charges or restrictions were an issue for their clients and more than three quarters conceded they had lost trade as a result. When it came to quantifying how much, nearly a third (30 per cent) estimated the damage as being between six to 10 per cent. A further 18 per cent said it could be as high as 20 per cent, while more than a quarter (27 per cent) felt it was more even than this. Solutions sought by salon owners include more free parking zones, cheaper parking and simply more parking options for shoppers. Also popular were more times when parking restrictions are lifted and encouraging towns to scrap parking charges all together. In response, the Local Government Association said councils were doing their best to strike a balance between deterring commuters while not chasing away shoppers.
Extension to payroll regime HM Revenue and Customs has given companies employing fewer than 50 people and which pay weekly or more frequently, a further six months to become compliant with its new Real Time Information (RTI) payroll regime. The new system, whereby firms report PAYE information “in real time”,
kicked off in April, but until 5 October such small firms can still send information in by the date of their regular payroll run, although no later than the end of the tax month, HMRC has said. The NHF has been working closely with salon owners since last autumn to ensure businesses are not caught out.
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To find out more about the work the NHF does and for information on how to join, visit www.nhf.info or call 0845 345 6500 or 01234 831965
Creative HEAD 27
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BUSINESS NEWS, VIEWS AND ADVICE
TASKFORCE
BUSINESS PRO Dylan Brittain Managing director, Rainbow Room International, George Square, Glasgow What is the biggest business risk you have ever taken? Becoming a salon franchisee. But the opportunity arose and, although it was scary going into the unknown, it was also really exciting and I definitely made the right decision. What do you find is the biggest challenge in business today? Exceeding customer’s expectations in today’s climate. Clients are expecting so much more for their money so it is up to us to ensure service remains consistent and that we stay ahead of the game, from communication and training to trends. How do you cope with pressure? My three steps to coping with pressure are listen, think and then react. I also try to stick to my schedule as much as possible and plan ahead. How do you de-stress after work? Going to the gym really helps, so I go five times a week and I also do Bikram yoga three times a week. What’s the most important lesson you have learnt so far? The Rainbow Room International’s managing directors, Linda and Alan Stewart, always told me to bank 20 per cent every week of what we bring in and it hasn’t failed yet.
What’s in a BRAND?
When it comes to building a successful business, branding is paramount “THERE IS ONLY ONE THING in the world worse than being talked about, and that is not being talked about,” said Lord Henry Wotton in Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray. Though the novel was written more than 120 years ago, this sentiment has never been more relevant. Getting people talking about you and your salon and creating a ‘buzz’ is key – and it all starts with branding. “Good branding is not just a logo, it represents what your company stands for – its core beliefs. It’s visual shorthand for the way you want your clients to feel when they think of you,” says Lisa Webb, managing director of branding company, Pink Frog. The first thing you must do is decide on your business’ core values, determining your company’s position in the market and how to develop this into a personality, advises Lisa. Once you have this in place, you can begin the process of how you want your values to look. Think: who do you want to attract? “A brand design can look stunning but if it does not reflect your products and services, it may work against you,” warns Terry Bunn, general manager of hair and beauty suppliers Laceys, which also provides professional branding services. “When designing your brand, consistency is vital,
click smart
FIVE BRILLIANT BRANDING TIPS
such as the colour scheme you use in your salon, which should be transferred to your website and marketing.” Terry also suggests using the same font on all your material to create a strong identity – subconsciously leaving a picture embedded within your potential and existing clients’ minds. While it’s preferable to decide on the look and feel of your brand in the beginning, you can never know 100 per cent which way your business is going to go, so don’t be afraid of a rebrand if needed. Clay Salon in Oxshott carried out a rebrand recently as it was heading in a different direction and wanted to reflect this. “We launched a new website this year, extended the salon and enhanced our customer care so it felt like the right time,” says salon manager James Overton. Working closely with its chosen design company, Clay created a branding bible that gave exact guidelines on fonts, sizes, colour palettes and so on that had to be used on everything, from business cards to social media and shop fronts. Since the rebrand, Clay has attracted a whole new client demographic, with people from Chelsea and Fulham commuting to the Surrey salon, which is exactly what it set out to achieve. But whatever you decide to do, consistency is vital.
• Create a moodboard of ideas, colours, fonts and other companiesʼ logos that appeal to you and your business • Get your marketing material designed and printed professionally • Keep it simple: short names and memorable straplines • Involve your staff as they are your brand ambassadors • Consistency, consistency, consistency! Ensure your salon shop front, logo, marketing material, website and so on all follow the same brand guidelines
Creative HEAD 28 14
•28_Taskforce 1
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business news, views and advice
The
edit
Glamoriser Auto-Curler Texture (and lots of it) is a key trend for S/S13, so make sure your client’s hair looks the part with the Auto-Curler by Glamoriser. As its name suggests, the Auto-Curler takes the guesswork out of curling with its unique motorised barrel. All you have to do is place the hair ends under the clip, and the barrel automatically rotates to wind the hair up before revealing beautifully curled hair with texture by the bucket-load! www.salon-services.com
good, Slick and straight strands are all well and ther whe So but a little bounce goes a long way. or your client loves Beyoncé’s barreled coils gamut the Jennifer Aniston’s carefree waves, with it’s time of curling products and tools available, for curls to come out and play
Aveda Be Curly Achieve coiled locks without a crunchy finish with the two new additions to the Aveda Be Curly range. First is the Be Curly Curl Controller to control, condition and lengthen curly hair. Formulated with active plant ingredients including organic Brazilian babassi oil, this is sure to become a curly client’s favourite as it’s proven to control frizz all day. Next is Aveda’s Be Curly Enhancing Hair Spray, designed to provide flexible hold with a natural finish. www.aveda.co.uk
BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl Babyliss PRO’s new Perfect Curl is brilliant at creating gorgeous curls and waves on mid-length and longer hair. It automatically draws sections of hair into a ceramic chamber, where it heats from all directions to form a long-lasting curl, with a series of helpful beeps to let you know when the hair is ready. www.babylisspro.co.uk Paul Mitchell Curls Give your curly clients the power to walk with their head held high with Paul Mitchell’s Curls range. Clients can get their curls clean and under control with Paul Mitchell Spring Loaded Frizz-Fighting Shampoo, banish frizz forever with Full Circle Leave-In Treatment, create beach-style waves with Ultimate Wave and define with Twirl Around. www.paulmitchell.co.uk
Matrix Total Results Curls Get totally out-there curls with the new Matrix Total Results Curl range. Containing antifrizz, nutri-curl technology, the three-product range – featuring shampoo, conditioner and contouring lotion – is infused with jojoba oil and wheat protein. www.matrixhaircare.co.uk
Bedhead by TIGI On the Rebound Sometimes curls need a little extra helping hand and On the Rebound by Bedhead by TIGI gives good curl. The cream revives the limpest of locks thanks to its curl recall technology, reshaping and reforming in just one scrunch. The formula also provides thermal protection, fights frizz, smoothes, moisturises and creates brilliant shine. www.tigihaircare.com
check out the edit for our pick of the month’s hottest trend! Tell us about the curls you’ll be creating this summer on twitter @creativeheadmag #curlsworld Creative HEAD 30
•30_Edit 1
15/5/13 15:56:10
REVOLUTIONISE HOW YOU CU R L
PERFECT CURL A revolutionary, new way to effortlessly create beautiful curls. The hair is simply drawn into the ceramic chamber where it is softly held and heated to release beautiful, free-flowing curls.
Scan the QR code
Available from Capital Hair & Beauty - www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk Salon Services - www.salon-services.com and Aston & Fincher - www.astonandfincher.co.uk
BAB00016 Perfect Curl 300x230 AW.indd 1
See the Perfect Curl in action
21/03/2013 10:02
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stylish salons and furniture
interiorscape
Artful Barber Tynemouth, Tyne and Wear
Housed in a converted church, clients are transported back to the Victorian era, as owner Emma Knox explains
Space: 216 sq ft. Team: Two. Styling: One. Backwashes: One. Inspirations: My dad is an artist and we wanted people to be able to view and buy his work so I came up with the name Artful Barber – also a play on the Artful Dodger character who inspired the salon interior’s late Victorian style. The design: We didn’t want to go with a typical barbershop design and have loads of styling stations, so we researched Victorian barbershops and used old photographs as inspiration. We wanted to keep it quite personal – our space is just big enough for the atmosphere we want to create. One station for a one-on-one experience between barber and client. The colour palette: Aside from keeping all the wood furniture dark we haven’t kept to a single colour scheme, but instead chosen to focus on authenticity. We picked mismatching Victorian style fabrics for the chairs that we re-upholstered and have brought colour to the room by adding glass ornaments. Favourite area: The styling station. The chair is an original Belmont red barber’s chair that we sourced online. It fits in perfectly with the style and feel of the shop along with the collection of mirrors and pictures on the wall. The brands: American Crew. Innovative features: We struggled to find a backwash unit that would suit our Victorian theme and not stand out too much. In the end we settled on a freestanding backwash and my dad turned one of the waiting area chairs into a reclined backwash chair, which we then upholstered ourselves.
Creative Head HEAD 32 14
•32-33_Interiors 2
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NEWS JUNE
Hot buys Smoothly done
Brilliant pieces for your salon
Let’s party
Bright future
Part of the recently launched Just collection by Pietranera, the Party Optima has an upholstered quilted effect that will add impact.
Eco Fun from Maletti is a new range of salon furniture that shows ethical products can be exciting, bright and fun.
Price from £4,310 +VAT
Price £1,155 +VAT
Contact 020 7515 0333
Contact 020 8903 0002
Price: £765 +VAT Contact: 020 3207 2032
www.lsehair.com
www.malettigroup.com
The robust INOVA-EX chair oozes luxury and comfort, and its motorised functionality allows you to manoeuvre clients into position.
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Mr Rizzo London
Gro london
Voodou for Him Liverpool
A mix of retro and quintessential English gentleman is the vibe you get when stepping into Mr Rizzo, the new Covent Garden male grooming destination from the owners of Sanrizz. Designed in conjunction with Takara Belmont, the 750 sq ft barber’s space features nine stations, one backwash and two front washes. A brown, gold, white and grey colour palette helps combine the modern and the traditional.
Following on the theme of its three sister salons, Fulham’s Gro has a large open styling area with island reception. The aim with this design was to create a busy, backstageat-the-shows environment, which clients can get immersed in as soon as they step through the door. The new mezzanine colour suite is more relaxed, with a large corner vanity mirror surrounded by bulb lighting and a stunning chandelier above.
Award-winning Voodou Salons has undergone some big changes, not just in its appearance but also the overall running of the salons, with art director Vicky Hay taking management of Voodou for Him on Bold Street, as well as Voodou’s ladies salon on the same road. The new classic revamp of the men’s salon includes bookcase wallpaper, Chesterfield chairs and bowler hat lighting.
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Natural growth Becoming a sustainable business isn’t optional anymore; from clothes to hair, clients are demanding eco-friendly products and businesses. It’s time to grow your salon business the green way with a little help from Aveda Now more than ever, clients care about the Earth; celebrities are turning the red carpet green with their organic dresses, high-street stores are unveiling eco-friendly evening wear, and increasingly people are turning their backs on beauty conglomerates that refuse to change. So as clients look to Mother Nature for their beauty regime, where can you start once you’ve decided to help them? Gary Ingham of Gary Ingham Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa in Hampstead, chose Aveda after undergoing a salon refurbishment as he wanted a brand that reflected the luxuriousness of the salon but was still in keeping with its eco-friendly beliefs. “We grew our business from a family salon to a salon and spa, and retail sales have more than quadrupled. We’ve managed to intertwine our own brand and values with those of Aveda, but the massive benefit has been working hand in hand with such a globally recognised luxury eco brand,” he says. Aveda is there to help you on your green journey, enabling you to raise your salon profile as well as offering a plethora of high-performance products for haircare, styling, skin and body. Also, Aveda is exclusive, which means greater retail opportunities and profit for you, helping you recruit new salon clients with broad sampling campaigns, full media support and Aveda’s Pure Privilege loyalty programme. See how Aveda can help to generate sustainable growth for you using the three steps opposite.
Key areas for growth
Aveda knows it has untapped potential in key areas, so if you have a salon in the areas below and are interested in developing business in a more sustainable way, visit Aveda.co.uk/grow.
Edinburgh
Carlisle
Penrith
Leeds
Manchester Liverpool
Birmingham
Kingston upon Thames
Southampton
Portsmouth
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Gary Ingham Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa
Promotion
Grow your salon business, naturally
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Benchmark for success Based on top-performing salons, the Aveda benchmarks are the goals for success. The Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa in Covent Garden is the only company-owned salon in which it is constantly measuring these benchmarks and working with the teams to reach them. From the results, Aveda shares what has and hasn’t worked within its salon network.
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Supporting causes Living the Aveda mission helps to grow your salon’s business – that’s a fact! One of the most effective ways to attract new clients is to practise cause marketing; if you support your community, your community will support you. Aveda runs yearly charitable initiatives, encouraging its salons to take part and raise money for different causes.
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Using eco-friendly products Aveda is a company of firsts: it is the first beauty company to manufacture with 100 per cent certified wind power. Its wind energy purchases offset all of the energy used in the brand’s three US facilities. It is also the first beauty company with 100 per cent post-consumer recycled PET plastics for skincare and hair styling ranges.
Want to learn more about how to grow your business in a green way? call 0870 034 2380 for details
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Fellowship president Errol Douglas MBE and Jamie Stevens
head t i v e c r e a
e the Want to se the hottest m action fro ents? Visit industry evadmag.com Creativehe
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The brief read: “Demonstrate your own interpretation of digital design combined with Matrix Color Insider Colour Shock techniques, to give a futuristic view of beauty.” What followed was the incredible 13-date Matrix Revolution Tour 2013. Packed with inspiration, tips and advice, each show was divided into four sections – Digital Edge Women, Colour Shock by Color Insider, Digital Edge Men and Style It Up on long hair – and each of the show audiences were treated to live demonstrations from two members of the Matrix Art Team. Strong, geometric cuts and bold colour formed the foundation of the shows, but it was the unique adaptation of the Digital Design concept from each pair of artists that gave audiences a true insight into how to recreate these ideas for salon clients. For example, in Peterborough, Paul Falltrick and Ross Taylor from Falltricks presented dual texture and luxe colour looks inspired by designers such as Issey Miyake, while in Chelmsford, Jamie Stevens worked with Nathan J from Silhouette du Barry to demonstrate how to bring more daring styles into the salon.
Paul Falltrick
Jo Jordan and Christian Wiles
New
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Jessica-Jane and Lee Stafford and Sean Dawson
Pat and Anthony Mascolo and David Drew
From left to right: Mark Creed, Errol Douglas MBE, Sean Dawson, Ann Herman and Steven Goldsworthy
Martyn Holmes
scene
Hello, Mr
HOB Salons team
Fellowship president Errol Douglas MBE and chairman David Drew
President
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Hairdressing royalty descended on London’s Dorchester Hotel for the annual Fellowship for British Hairdressing President’s Night. On arrival guests mingled under the chandeliers as they caught up with friends, before being ushered into the main ballroom and welcomed by outgoing president Mark Creed. They then enjoyed a delicious meal before HABB co-president Linda Evans spoke briefly about the achievements of the charity so far this year and urged the audience to dig deep for the annual raffle. Next up was the presentation of the HABB Awards, with Anthony and Pat Mascolo accepting the HABB Humanitarian Award, the Sassoon Creative Team were presented with the President’s Award and Alan D won the Fundraising Award. In anticipation of the main event – Errol Douglas MBE’s official inauguration – mindreader Graham Jolley took to the stage and wowed the crowd with his ability to draw out the most intimate information, without his chosen individual uttering a word. Finally, it was time for Mark Creed to step down from his position as president after two years and hand the reins to Errol Douglas MBE. Accepting his new role to a standing ovation, Errol said: “This is really exciting for me. To stand here as your elected president is amazing.” Congratulations Errol!
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Aveda was a brand with a cause at its annual Earth Month Auction and Gala Dinner, where the eco-friendly company raised funds and awareness for the WaterAid charity. Taking place among the lush greenery and pink flamingoes at Kensington Roof Gardens, guests enjoyed a glass of bubbly and the chance to meet TV presenter and WaterAid ambassador, Laura Whitmore, before sitting down for a sumptuous three-course dinner. Aveda’s Darren Potter encouraged guests to get out of their seats to give their neighbours a back rub, before Laura Whitmore spoke about the importance of WaterAid’s plight to bring clean and safe water to underprivileged communities across the globe. She said: “I’m delighted to be supporting the fantastic work of WaterAid through Aveda’s Earth Month. Initiatives like Earth Month are so important as they help WaterAid bring clean water to more people.” The night came to a head with a charity auction, with a variety of lots available for bidding. Hosted by Christie’s auctioneer Kate McKenzie, guests clamoured to outbid each other for a Mulberry bag and a party table at the alpinethemed Bodo’s Schloss, among others – raising more than £11,700 for WaterAid! The glittering gala dinner was the climax of an eventful Earth Day for Aveda, which earlier in the day took part in the first ever global Cut-A-Thon and a Guinness World Record attempt. At time of press, the eco brand was still waiting to hear if it succeeded, so fingers crossed!
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Shoot to the top! Win the chance to create stunning editorial looks on a photoshoot with ghd creative director Zoë Irwin Enter the unique online talentspotting competition ghd Spotlight and you could win a place working alongside session supremo Zoë Irwin on a photoshoot. Zoë’s on the speed dial of fashion editors across the land, and her recent work includes videos for Little Mix and Missy Elliott, shoots with Jameela Jamil, Lisa Snowdon, i-D and 125 magazine. Incredible!
what you’ll win! • Learn editorial styling tips • See what happens on a major shoot • Get one-to-one time with Zoë to help you start your session stylist career
About Zoë Zoë Irwin is one of the most inspiring hairdressers in the industry today. As ghd’s creative director, coolhunter and session stylist she has worked with many of the world’s top brands, magazines and hairdressing groups as well as an enviable celebrity client list. Her work is a unique blend of traditional technique learnt and honed throughout her 30-year career, combined with new and exciting concepts developed from emerging trends in hair and fashion. It’s no wonder she was crowned Most Wanted HAIR ICON 2012!
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Creative Head
Promotion
How to enter
1 2 3
Sign up to Showcase Visit Creativeheadmag.com/ghdshowcase to register your details if you haven’t already done so – it only takes a minute. Or go direct to www.ghdhair.com/register-showcase
Follow the brief Through images or video show the styles that represent the great British summer, from festivals and garden parties to blustery summer days at the beach.
Get creative
Think summertime and get creative with the brief! Style a model and take a pic, create a step-by-step video or do something completely different! The most important thing is that your creativity shines through! Remember your entry must be your own work and created specifically for the ghd Spotlight competition!
4
Share your vision Upload your images and/or video and make sure they’re tagged
#ghdspotlight2 The closing date for entries is Wednesday 26 June After this date, ghd will invite three finalists to attend a photoshoot in London where they’ll each be asked to create a look. More than one million Facebook fans and a ghd panel will judge the final three shots to find a winner.
NEED-TOKNOW STUFF! Anyone can enter – your salon doesn’t need to be a ghd stockist You can create your personal ghd Showcase profile at ghdhair.com, or through the special ghd Showcase area at Creativeheadmag.com/ ghdshowcase You can download the free iPhone app, ghd Showcase, from the App Store so you can upload on the move
For more details, visit www.ghdhair.com/spotlight or call 0845 3301133
•44-45_ghd 3
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Bright young things The next crop of colourists on L’Oréal Professionnel’s COLOUR ID ARTISTS programme reveal how INOA is creating endless colour possibilities It’s more important than ever to invest in a brand that is passionate about colour and all its limitless possibilities. L’Oréal Professionnel has always kept colour close to its heart, since founder Eugène Schueller developed a new formula for hair colourants in Paris in 1909. To this day, the company remains first and foremost a house of hair colour, which is why it launched the COLOUR ID ARTISTS in 2010. Following the success of the L’Oréal Professionnel ID ARTISTS programme, L’Oréal Professionnel created COLOUR ID ARTISTS with the aim of nurturing a handpicked group of talented colourists on an intensive two-year development programme. To ensure its high
standards, all candidates must be Colour Specialist graduates. If a colourist makes the cut, they can expect a year of inspiring and educational workshops, mentoring by top industry professionals (in 2012, the COLOUR ID ARTISTS were mentored by award-winning colourist Kate Wilson of Trevor Sorbie) and a chance to work on L’Oréal Professionnel’s seasonal collections. L’Oréal Professionnel continues to come up with innovation after innovation, including its most recent hair colour revolutions: ammonia-free INOA. Here, six second-year COLOUR ID ARTISTS reveal what they love about INOA and why it’s their brand of choice to take them to the next level of their colour careers.
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Promotion “INOA is my permanent colour choice in the salon. I love the versatility and the lack of fading makes my work look great for longer. I love to be able to offer INOA as I am always confident clients will get the results they’re looking for”
“It’s a colour that’s suitable for everyone, especially clients who want luxurious, natural-looking colour with condition and shine. I use INOA for many techniques, from global application to balayage”
JILL HAMILTON, KELLY COWAN, COUNTY DOWN
KIRSTY MARTIN, ELECTRIC, BRIGHTON
“I use INOA to create commercial and avant-garde looks – whether its global or partial techniques, INOA really lets me go wild and express my creativity” SOPHIE KEARNEY, GEORGE’S HAIRDRESSING, LEICESTER
“Clients have very high expectations and INOA meets them every time. My clients love the colour results and that it’s odourless”
“I am totally in love with INOA! The feedback from clients is incredible, particularly after the second or third visit when clients say the colour is holding on better than it ever has before”
BETH MOWER, THE GALLERY HAIRCUTTERS, NORWICH
KERRIE O’REILLY, BROOKS+BROOKS, LONDON
“INOA lets me transform my client’s look with fashionable, natural-looking colour that leaves the hair incredibly glossy and shiny” BEN GARRY, BEN GARRY HAIR, NAVAN, REPUBLIC OF IRELAND
TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL AND THE COLOUR ID ARTISTS PROGRAMME, CALL 0800 030 4034 OR VISIT WWW.LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK
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Curl perfection Always one step ahead, BaByliss PRO is known for its innovation and technology in the professional hairdressing industry, so when it announces that the Perfect Curl is the most technologically advanced product it has ever worked on; the industry sits up and takes notice. With this ground-breaking product, which took five years of research and development, BaByliss PRO has achieved what was once thought to be impossible – creating a tool that makes curling as easy as straightening. It is ideal for use on mid-length and longer hair and is great for salon use, as well as for retailing. It’s so quick at creating curls that stylists can spend more time dressing the hair and making the style. And when it comes to retail, clients will be so impressed with the results they’ll be practically grabbing the tool out of your hands. BaByliss PRO’s Perfect Curl is truly revolutionary. From a technology point of view, the hair is carefully drawn into the ceramic curl chamber and gently heated from all sides to form a curl. It has three different heat settings (190°C, 210°C and 230°C) and three different
timer settings (8, 10 and 12 seconds), so it can be adapted for a client’s hair type and the style you’re trying to achieve. With less direct heat, Perfect Curl is kinder to hair and also has built-in anti-tangle software. It really is that simple. And the brand has thought of everything – right down to the fact that if you take too large a section of hair, Perfect Curl simply beeps to alert the user. And with the curl direction switch you have complete control over the look you want to achieve. So whether you want the curls coming towards the face or going away or if you want a more random, natural look, there is a setting for it. Adam Reed, co-owner of Percy & Reed salons, believes Perfect Curl is exactly what your salon needs. He says: “Whether reducing client time in the salon or prepping backstage, the ease and speed with which you can create beautiful curls, will change styling forever.” So for long lasting perfectly replicated curls that work from root to end, the only choice is Perfect Curl.
Hair by Adam Reed and Paul Percival at Percy & Reed for BaByliss PRO. Make-up by Jaimee Thomas. Photography by Paul Scala
Create flawless curls quicker and easier than ever before with the revolutionary BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl styler and have clients begging to take one home
l ld Cur .com or ct ag w rfe m k ls Pe head wee ! ur RO tive r a tion #c liss P Crea ay fo spira By er M in Ba ov 28 url c s ke on of ta
Perfect Curl is available from Capital Hair & Beauty, Aston and Fincher and Sally Salon Services. For more information, call 0870 513 3191 or visit www.babylisspro.co.uk
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Promotion
“It’s rare that a truly industrychanging innovation is launched, but the Perfect Curl is going to be the product of the decade” Adam Reed, co-owner of Percy & Reed salons
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FREE YOUR MIND •50-51_P&G + Insert 1
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No foils
•50-51_P&G + Insert 3
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NO BLEED ING* *SHADES OF UP TO THREE LEVELS OF DEPTH APART. NOT RECOMMENDED WHEN USING EXTREME TONAL DIFFERENCES SUCH AS VIBRANT REDS AND BLONDES
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Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion
NO LIMITS COLOUR WILL BE SET FREE THIS SUMMER WITH COLOR.ID BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS
WANT TO BE AMONG THE FIRST COLOURISTS TRAINED ON COLOR.ID? CONTACT YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS ACCOUNT MANAGER OR EMAIL WELLAEVENTS.IM@PG.COM WITH ‘COLOR.ID’ IN THE SUBJECT LINE FOR INFORMATION ON YOUR NEAREST TRAINING SESSION
•50-51_P&G + Insert 2
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Want to know what success tastes like?
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It’s the adrenaline rush… The first sip of champagne... The thrill of an evening ahead full of
excitement
and possibility…
It’s the support of your team-mates… The hugs, the good lucks… The of a room filled with friends old and new…
s
buzz
boom
It’s the of the music… The flare from the lights… It’s the roar of the crowd as your name is read out…
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THE MOST WANTED AND IT LIST GRAND FINAL
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Monday 2 September
Natural History Museum London SW7 5BD
Tickets ÂŁ210 Tables of ten ÂŁ1,900 All food, drinks and entertainment included
BOOK NOW! Call 01434 610940
Creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted Creativeheadmag.com/theitlist
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Only Salon Smart has the answer
Guests and speakers came, saw and conquered their business needs at Creative HEAD’s seventh annual Salon Smart event. Bursting with inspirational seminars, informative Q&A sessions and a high-octane evening of mixing, mingling and live shows, the business networking event – sponsored by Goldwell and KMS California – was the best yet!
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stars
Written in the Top of the bill
No Salon Smart event would be complete without a breath-taking creative presentation. After a three-course meal, this year Trevor Sorbie MBE – complete with broken ankle – and his ridiculously talented Art Team treated the audience to an unforgettable hour of creative power. Wowing guests with the highlights of his illustrious 30-year career, the hairdressing legend then proudly introduced his team to the stage. Led by artistic director Johanna Cree Brown, the Trevor Sorbie Art Team recreated two showstopping looks from last year’s Alternative Hair Show, inspired by a levitating street performer Trevor noticed performing in Covent Garden. The team then unveiled four stunning editorial finishes, sharing insider tips and tricks for the audience to soak up as they watched in awe as the creations developed before their eyes – Adam Szabo’s candy floss-style fishtail braid was amazing! To close, delegates were treated to an exclusive first look at a mesmerising video created by Johanna exclusively for Salon Smart and directed and produced by film maker Roger Spy. See it online at Creativeheadmag.com
Trevor Sorbie MBE
There was plenty of business and tonnes of networking, but Salon Smart was also teeming with glamour, as some the biggest hairdressing stars descended on London’s Park Plaza Riverbank hotel
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Ken West
Salon Smart
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Dylan Bradshaw Carolyn Newman
Andrew Barton with salon owner Caroline Sanderson
The champagne was flowing, delegates were dressed to impress and five hairdressing heroes were firedup and ready to divulge their career secrets and answer burning questions. It could only mean one thing, the raved-about Meet & Mix reception! Hosted in the glorious Thames Room, with floor to ceiling windows – affording views of the Thames and Houses of Parliament – this year’s soiree gave guests the chance to quiz the likes of Errol Douglas MBE, Carolyn Newman, Andrew Barton, Dylan Bradshaw and Ken West. Tackling a wide spectrum of issues that challenge salon owners, Andrew Barton was on hand to advise on team trust and delegation, while Dylan shared insights surrounding growing a brand. At Errol’s table, delegates were chatting about the power of creativity, while Carolyn talked through the business of colour and Ken tackled financial health.
Gary Hooker and Michael Young talking to Catherine Handcock
Errol Douglas MBE
Meet the experts
Hook, line and sinker
All good things have to come to an end, but this year Salon Smart went out with a bang, with an amazing Q&A session with Hooker & Young. From the first time they met in a Newcastle nightclub to their decision to do everything together – “You’ll never see one of us without the other,” said Gary Hooker – Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock talked frankly with the boys about the trials and tribulations of their careers. It was an unforgettable end to an amazing Salon Smart and left the audience full of ideas about how to make their business better. Check out the July/August issue for an exclusive look at Hooker & Young’s shoot in Australia!
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“The team is the most important thing – without them you don’t have a brand” Tommy and Esther van der veken Most Wanted 2012 Business Thinkers, Tommy (pictured) and Esther, opened Salon Smart with the story of how they went from a small salon to an award-winning group now based in Chester and North Wales. Covering everything from developing an identity to how to achieve your goals, Tommy and Esther mapped out a clear and concise plan on how to build a successful brand. Consistency and staying true to your core beliefs were key. See page 111 for more top tips from Tommy’s.
“Once you’ve wooed, you need to wow”
“Twitter is great for growing your profile”
Sharleen Hunter Sharleen, founder of PR and marketing agency Unleashed Potential, unveiled her insider tips for attracting new clients and charming existing ones. This ranged from how to represent your salon and make sure it’s seen in the right places, to keeping things consistent – clients are busy, so whatever you do, do it consistently. She explained that 68 per cent of clients leave a business because of indifference to it, so you have got to keep wowing clients every time. She also advised owners to always look ahead – in-salon iPads were a treat and now they’re the norm, so what’s next?
Richard Phillipart Richard was only 22 when he opened The Boutique Salon and Spa in Cheshire. Now, six years later, The It List ENTREPRENEUR 2012 revealed what he’s learnt so far. He provided an insight into how he looks at retail, education and pricing, but it was how he utilised social media that really grabbed the audience’s attention. A key point was that social media will pay out only as much as you put into it, so find the time to work hard at it, but above all do not sell on social networking sites, get clients interested instead.
We.mean
“The next generation expect everything in all things” Nicholas Wood Nicholas, president of Goldwell and KMS California, UK and Ireland, presented a checklist of priorities and actions to help maximise profitability and spoke about the value of money and taking a more targeted approach when it comes to marketing and building your business. He also advised caution when it comes to social media and to properly understand what you want to do before diving in. The second part of his seminar focused on predictive analytics and anticipating consumer needs.
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Salon Smart
“It’s far easier to look after the clients you already have than to poach them from elsewhere” Ken West The current market seems to be swamped with discounting, but do you understand its true effects? This was the question Ken, director of education at 3•6•5, put to the audience on day two of Salon Smart, before laying out the real costs of discounting and emphasising to never discount just because everyone else is. Of all the initiatives to try, looking after existing clients, which Ken called ‘game keeping’, was his favourite.
“A haircut isn’t enough anymore. Good and consistent service is key” John Carne Salon owner John (pictured), brand manager Emma Chadwick, and art director Andy Smith shared with the audience how they revolutionised the company last year following a thorough business examination, which looked at understanding the client, planning marketing for the entire year and reviewing its social media platforms and website. One example of how they changed tactics was to introduce added value promotions, which dramatically increased the salon’s male and junior clientele.
“The only way to increase business is to focus on your staff, who can then focus on your clients” Marcus Allen Group head of salons at Urban Retreat, Marcus provided a riveting account of how Urban Retreat has recently overhauled its appraisal system using 12 key questions and based on a 25-year study with Gallup. This, Marcus said, was a real eye-opener for the company as it was finally able to measure exactly how people felt about the brand. For more on Urban Retreat and the 12 questions, see pages 109 and 114.
“Registration is a good idea if everyone does it, but clients neither know nor care” Think Tank. Marcus Allen, Dylan Bradshaw, Lisa Whiteman, Sharleen Hunter and Nicholas Wood Delegates put their business questions to our panel of experts, with the question of a hairdressing register the hot topic of the hour. Lisa Whiteman, who is registered with the Hair Council, believed it was a good idea and that it has helped raise her profile. Other topics included salon wages and costs and when to start using a PR team. By the end, the audience was buzzing with advice.
Hairdressing’s finest gathered in the ballroom of the Park Plaza Riverbank hotel to hear what top industry players had to say on everything from building a brand and attracting new clients to maximising profitability and the real cost of price-cutting Creative Head 61
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lon Smart action from Sa Watch all the is now! V it 2013 online, art ag.com/salonsm Creativeheadm
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&
Out
On the shoot
Before the shoot
PR guru Sharleen Hunter and salon owner Lisa Whiteman provided in-depth detail of what goes into the preparation of a photoshoot, covering everything from planning your budget to sourcing the models. When considering the objective of the shoot, Lisa and Sharleen advised not to make it too seasonal – as this dates quickly – and to work out who and what the shoot is for. If the shoot is for an award entry, Lisa advised to always consider what the judges are looking for, study past winners and read and re-read the brief. When planning your budget, you’ve got to consider: a photographer, models, make-up artists, clothes stylists, retouching, studio hire and lunch. Always err on the side of caution, advised Lisa, and consider the time taken out of the salon – is the investment worth the rewards? For the shoot team, get your concept first, then your photographer, then your models. “It’s all about building contacts,” said Lisa, who also suggested holding a casting day with the photographer and negotiating image rights.
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The second workshop of the day gave guests the chance to interact and watch a live photoshoot with photographer John Rawson, salon owner Darren Webster and Creative HEAD editor, Lauren Margrave. Talking the audience through the shoot, John, Darren and Lauren discussed the importance of the brief – always keep in mind when the images will be appearing – prep time and practising as much as possible beforehand. The brief for this shoot was for the model to appear doll-like, and the audience saw how John coached her, telling her how to stand as he snapped away. Darren explained the importance of doing as much of the hair beforehand as possible and, if it’s for an award entry, to make sure it’s a look you can recreate in a live setting. John also advised attending the retouch to finalise your shots and to spend as much as you can on this part as it definitely pays off. Finally, be brutal when selecting for award entries – it’s about which images sit together best.
15/5/13 09:57:17
&
Salon Smart
about
In between the business seminars, guests were able to get interactive with new photoshoot workshops, Salon Smart Creates, get social at the Working Lunch and get excited at the chance to win nine top prizes
A networking lunch and the chance to win top prizes? It doesn’t get much better than this…
Lunch and prizes – two of our favourite things – went hand in hand at Salon Smart, where guests enjoyed 90 minutes of networking opportunities with leading hairdressers, as well as watching live product demonstrations and purchasing. Once guests had their fill of lunch, coffee and browsing the brands, the room fell quiet as Salon Smart held its prize draw...
The prize draw winners Prize Goldwell and KMS California education vouchers and more than a dozen Goldwell and KMS California care and styling products. Winner Jane Crane of Tc2, Essex Prize Two free places on 3•6•5 Insight event, including overnight accommodation, dinner, breakfast and lunch. Winner Emma Hellier of Emma Hellier Natural Hair And Body Retreat, East Sussex Prize Jenoris starter pack from American Dream. Winner Susie Stockwin of One 4 Hairdressing & Beauty, Kent Prize 900 Easydry mixed black and white towels and 150 black capes. Winner Paul Cook of Hair Concept, Oxfordshire Prize Free membership to The Hair or Beauty Group. Winner Jeff Goodwin of Jeff Goodwin Hair, Devon Prize One year’s subscription to MyHairDressers.com, and one in-salon training session by MHD contributor Steve Turner. Winner Zoe Stapp of La Vida Hairdressing, East Sussex Prize A masterclass with a Richard Ward stylist on the Diva Professional Styling Session range and Glamoriser Auto-Curler followed by a blow-dry. Winner Trevor Jones of Strands Hair Design, Cornwall Prize Free Millennium Software system, including software and support for one year. Winner Samuel Jones of Harringtons, North Humberside
Creative Head 63
p56-63_SalonSmart Feature_GW7.indd 9
and book for Get the buzz e 14, taking plac Salon Smart 20 il. pr A 28 27 and in London on art ag.com/salonsm dm ea eh iv at Visit Cre
15/5/13 09:57:46
6ce3nt of
*Survey conducted by Creative HEAD magazine between January and February 2013
per yal o l e r a n e wom n to one salo
t a h W n e m o w t n a w
Women are desperate to love their hair and Creative HEAD knows exactly how you can help. Aside from bouncy blow-drys and cute crops, our survey of 500 female consumers* reveals the extras you need to be offering to become a client's best friend forever
•64-74_What women Want 2
10/5/13 11:53:11
WHAT WOMEN WANT
64
per cent of women want to try new products
8 1 per cen
t of women they tr say ust the ir hairdr ess
er’s advice
•64-74_What women Want 3
13/5/13 11:14:02
WHAT WOMEN WANT
85 per
cent of female clients have never used Groupon or Wowcher
Oppo rtu nity: There you have it in black and white - more than four-fifths of fema le clients are not interested in flitting from one barga in basem ent deal to the next. What clients want is value for their hard-earned mone y…
BEST PRACTICE
“The economic downturn has given clients increased spending power,” says Andrew Barton of Andrew Barton Salons (pictured left). “We term it that way as it’s given clients the opportunity to be more discerning in how they spend, especially when visiting a salon. It’s not that they necessarily have more money, it’s just that price isn’t an issue if they feel they have received value for money.” During the past three years, Andrew’s Covent Garden salon has seen an increase in profit in all aspects of the business. According to Andrew, this has been achieved through his team
understanding the importance of added value. “There are certain things clients expect that are relatively simple, but in reality they don’t always get what is promised,” explains Andrew, who has come up with the Three Rs: RETAIL… When a product is explained and advised to help manage their hair at home, clients judge this as good value for money. RECOMMEND… When stylists recommend other services such as treatments and colour, clients judge this as good value for money. They know the stylist is interested in them, they feel special. We introduced longer appointment times to ensure stylists could offer a high level of service and care. REBOOK… Clients know it’s good value for money when their stylist plans ahead for them, ensuring their hair is right for key events in their life as well as from day to day.
NO FRILLS
At the height of the recession in 2010, Abby and Karly Whittaker, owners of the Sarah Hodge Group, opened a diffusion line of salons simply called The Salon (pictured left). The idea was to create a ‘no frills’ salon that delivers on quality but offers just 12 essential hairdressing services to target clients on a strict budget. “We wanted to target all the people who didn’t want to come to our luxury boutique salon,” says Abby. Cloud Nine Gift vouchers_Layout
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HAPPY DAYS
The Pow Wow is a consultation service offered by the team at George’s Hairdressing. As well as providing clients with a host of introductory offers, they can also take advantage of the Cleanse and Finish – a complimentary service where the stylist can check the client is happy!
WHAT A TREAT
Every client who buys a Cloud Nine product online will receive a £15 Kindness gift voucher for a treatment of their choice at a Cloud Nine salon. Not only is the brand helping you to get clients in the salon, it will also foot the bill for all redeemed treatments. KINDNESS GIFT VOUCHER
•64-74_What women Want 4
13/5/13 11:15:07
The Culture of Total Beauty
www.biosthetique.co.uk
HAIR & SCALP CARE, COLOUR, SKIN & BODY CARE, MAKE-UP, STYLING, NATURAL RANGE
La Biosthétique’s unique premium prescriptive brand delivers total concept formulas for professional colour, hair and skin care. Superior quality, innovative products, international hair & beauty trends and products developed dermatologically without animal testing. The La Biosthétique brand creates a unique point of difference for your salon. To find out how La Biosthétique can help you create success for your salon call 01296 611731. We would be delighted to hear from you.
WHAT WOMEN WANT
42 per cent of
clients only change their style for a special occasion
Oppo rtu nity:
Change can be scary for clients, which is why most fema les stick to the same look. It's your job to empower them with the confidence to try some thing new and arm them with the tools and tips to recreate the style at home
TAILOR-MADE
The Saks Art Team, led by creative director Alison Dace, recently undertook a survey of more than 100 Saks clients to find out what inspiration they want for their hair. The results were used as the basis for the brand’s latest collection, Desire, featuring six soughtafter styles including Fully Fit, which focuses on achieving shine and vitality. Check out fashion from page 117 for the full collection
POWER TO THE PEOPLE
One brand that recognises the importance of empowering clients to recreate styles for themselves at home is Headmasters. Twice a year the salon chain launches a new class, inviting clients into the salon for a 45minute tutorial based on the latest trends from the catwalk, priced at £45. “Initially we looked at this service as a way to give existing customers something new and interesting,” says Laura Hinton, head of PR and creative communication for the salon chain. “However, due to its unprecedented popularity with consumer glossy magazines, it’s led to many new client gains and increased brand awareness for Headmasters. It’s a really successful service as the client leaves with knowledge they didn’t have before, which increases loyalty and builds relationships, giving them the option to try other services with us, such as colour.”
•64-74_What women Want 6
AFTER HOURS
Recognising the value in showing clients how to recreate their style at home, Errol Douglas MBE (pictured above) has introduced the After Hours Tea Party at his Mayfair salon. “We do a lot of red carpet hair and take this back to our salon clients,” says Errol. With no more than six people in each session, Errol is able to match that with the same number of senior members. This means that not only are clients getting tuition, it’s at a premium price.
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WHAT WOMEN WANT
56
per cent of people choose a salon based on a friend’s recommendation
Oppo rtu nity:
Give clients some th ing to ta lk ab ou t with th eir friends by crea ting th e ultim ate sa lon expe rie nce. From lu xu rious features and qu irky inte rio rs to mouth-wa te ring re fre sh me nts, ma ke it your miss io n to crea te a re la xing re treat tha t wome n ca n't re sis t sharing with th eir friends “Above all, the look of a salon’s interior manifests
TALKING POINTS
These salons have all got something to shout about
the experience the client can expect, so it’s hugely important that it reflects your work and creative
ethos. If it’s overly pretentious, clients will feel intimidated and if it’s too laid-back you’ll look
unprofessional, neither of which will be good for
business. Look at your target client and think about what will appeal to them. And don’t forget the three Cs: Cleanliness, Comfort and Climate”
KEVIN NEWMAN-KNOTT, UK OPERATIONS MANAGER FOR MALETTI EVERY ITEM tells a story at the Boilerhouse in Newcastle upon Tyne, from the red folding chairs in reception sourced from the city’s Theatre Royal to the original Bank of America tin ceiling and Boeing 737 side panels.
THE SIGNATURE style at Rossano Ferretti Hairspa is simple and chic. With classic black furniture from Maletti, the spacious salon features a limited amount of styling stations, leaving clients with a feeling of exclusivity.
What’s on the menu? Sweet treats
At Sergio Giannasso Hair and Beauty in Covent Garden, owner Sergio makes fresh Tiramisu everyday from a secret family recipe.
Clients with a sweet tooth will be heading to Brooks+Brooks where they will be offered complimentary sweets and invited to help themselves to the cup cake jar.
Banana daiquiri
Coffee
Tiramisu
THE BACKWASH at Dune in Edinburgh is what clients are going to remember most. The Takara Belmont chairs take relaxation to a whole new level, stretching all the way out so that the client can lie down.
•64-74_What women Want 8
CREATING A HOME from home atmosphere, Nicky Clarke’s Mayfair salon is made cosy with some of the hair star’s personal items, including lamps and pictures that originally sat in Nicky’s house.
In homage to the building’s roots as a former tomato and banana merchants, clients can enjoy fruity cocktails at Percy and Reed East.
Good coffee is a must so the Nescafé Algeria A510 tabletop machine is a salon essential, with five coffee styles available.
13/5/13 11:16:38
Creative Head
Promotion
Fantastic four
Of all the things a client would like to experience in the salon, professional, luxurious and comfortable furniture is right at the top. Furniture expert Maletti has four essential salon items topping everyone’s wish list
▲ ▲
Jelly Fish Utility Trolley Quirky but oh-so practical, the Jelly Fish is one of UKi’s (part of the Maletti brand) bestselling products. This versatile trolley holds four bowls, has compartments for tools and brushes, and even has a foil dispenser. The clever design makes it stable and durable.
Madre Backwash You won’t be able to get your clients out of the backwash area with this chair. The fully reclining motorised seat positions the client perfectly at the basin, while the cleverly designed stool pivots with the technician’s movements, ensuring a relaxing shampoo service.
Green Hug Styling Chair Part of the Presence Paris Green First collection, the Green Hug Styling Chair is a fusion of ergonomics and ethics as it is sublimely comfortable but comes with the added bonus of being made from 100 per cent recycled and renewable materials, using ‘Zero Carbon’ production methods.
▲
For a salon to be successful and stay in a client’s mind for all the right reasons, it must not only act the part, but look the part too. Acclaimed salon furniture and equipment manufacturer Maletti has been producing furniture for some of the world’s leading salons for more than 75 years, so it knows a thing or two about making good-looking interiors. Of the many products in demand, here are four must-haves:
All-In-One Beauty Treatment Couch As its name suggests, the All-In-One is a comprehensive and luxurious, multi-functioning beauty treatment bed from the Nilo range. This high-tech motorised couch adjusts from a flat position to enable pedicure treatments without the need for the client to move.
For more information about Maletti products or to visit the London showroom, call 020 3207 2032, email info@maletti.co.uk or visit www.maletti.co.uk
Creative HEAD 71
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15/5/13 16:05:58
WHAT WOMEN WANT
46 per cent of
women are concerned with thinning hair, but only 25 per cent of them act on it*
Oppo rtu nity:
With ha irloss and ha ir th inning af fe ct ing four ou t of 10 wome n globally, th ere is se rious mone y to be made by offe ring products and se rvices tha t he lp clients ke ep th eir locks fo r longer. It's a se ns itive su bject bu t on e tha t you ne ed to be ta lki ng abou t
The facts
Creative HEAD can exclusively reveal how women in the UK feel about hair loss and thinning hair, courtesy of Aveda’s Invati Hero Campaign* • 29 per cent of women in the UK have suffered from hair loss or thinning, while 53 per cent are concerned about thinning hair. • 21 per cent of women rank hair loss and thinning as the subject they find most sensitive to talk about. • When suffering from hair thinning or loss, 68 per cent of women would go to their doctor for advice and one in five would seek help from a hairdresser. • To hide the appearance of hair loss or thinning, 20 per cent would wear a wig, 30 per cent would wear a hat and 70 per cent would find a hairstyle to disguise it. Only 4 per cent would have a hair transplant. *Aveda Invati survey, carried out on 2,000 UK women aged 20-50
Proof in the profit
Following the introduction of Nioxin
to Rainbow Room International (RRI) in May 2012, RRI Buchanan Street has made £2,108 profit from hairloss and
thinning services and the Stirling salon has made £1,930.
Touchy subject
Gary Taylor of Edward and Co hairdressers and a Clynol ambassador (pictured left), gives his advice for broaching the subject If hair is coming away from the scalp while brushing or combing then ask the client if they have noticed it. Try to establish how often the client cleans their hair and what brushes they use. See if there has been a change in the amount of hair left on their hairbrush when they have finished brushing.
Female hair loss is very common and can be temporarily caused by pregnancy, medication and stress, so if you see any signs then talk to your client about their hair before discussing hair loss. If this topic is approached in a professional manner there is always a good chance you can take care of the client and help solve the problem, without sending them out of the salon more stressed.
•64-74_What women Want 10
15/5/13 16:08:02
barbicide_CreativeHeadAd_Jar_01-03_final2----.indd 1
21/12/2012 14:53
Women aged 45 and over make up the largest group of clients getting their hair coloured in-salon*
Oppo rtu nity:
Wh en it come s to ha ir colou r, gr ey co ve rage is a majo r concern fo r most wome n aged 45 and over. So instead of let ting th em st ru gg le with at-hom e dye kits - home co lou r still accounts fo r 42 pe r ce nt of all blond es give clients a reason to come into th e sa lon
*According to research carried out by L’Oréal Professionnel
WHAT WOMEN WANT
“The 45-plus woman is our heartland,” explained Lesley Szpiro, senior manager of consumer market insights for L’Oréal Professionnel at a launch event for INOA UltraBlond. Colouring grey “This is the biggest group of clients visiting hair takes on w h a o le different sp the salon – 7 million out of the 15.8 million ectrum of grey Brooks+Broo who visit a salon in the UK each year fall at ks in Holborn , thanks to into this age bracket.” the 50 Shades of Grey Colo And with over fifties accounting for ur Experts. These specia li st s don’t just le 80 per cent of the UK’s financial wealth t a client pick a colour from the sha – making these clients big business. d e in chart, st ea d they analyse Long-lasting colour that retains its the individua hair texture, l’s vibrancy is a pre-requisite for professional skin tone, fa ce salon colour but the big brands are shape and lif estyle to find well aware of the profitable opportunities the perfect co afforded by greying hair, with 100 per cent lour. grey coverage guaranteed now being the norm.
Little helpers
Kristen McMenamy for Calvin Klein A/W10, image courtesy Redken
SHADE SATISFACTION
•64-74_What women Want 12
Of women visiting salons, one in four want to go blonde, so dazzle your greying hair clients with luminous colour from some of the biggest brands. Wella Professionals Illumina Color protects the cuticles so that they maintain their clarity, while INOA UltraBlond from L’Oréal Professionnel offers up to five levels of lift in one application. With the older lady in mind, the brand also offers INOA Suprême, the first age-defying, ammonia-free hair colour that works to increase hair density to leave it looking and feeling fuller. Other brands, such as the recently relaunched Igora Royal from Schwarzkopf Professional that now offers up to 50 per cent longer colour retention, and Top Chic from Goldwell with its Dye Penetration System, also offer optimum care throughout the colouring process. And for the more adventurous client, take the lead from Helen Mirren’s pastel pink hue at the 2013 BAFTAs and introduce them to Fudge Paintbox, an extensive range of semi-permanent and daring shades.
Top tip For greying clients reluctant to colour their hair, encourage them to embrace their natural shade with help from a silver shampoo and conditioner. Davines Alchemic range offers colour maintenance hair care products that use pure pigments to enhance both natural and coloured hair.
QUICK FIX
Having signed as Redken’s new UK and Ireland colour consultant, Lisa Shepherd (pictured right) is launching a series of express colour bars across all of her salons as a response to the rising client need for quick, affordable colour. “We’ll be able to offer greying clients a 10 to 15-minute toning service in between their regular colour appointments,” she explains.
16/5/13 14:42:10
Creative HEAD
Promotion
KEEP CALM AND
FIGHT FRIZZ
FIX YOUR CLIENTS’ FRIZZ PROBLEMS FOR GOOD WITH TAMEFRIZZ FROM KMS CALIFORNIA
•KMS 1
14/5/13 10:47:58
•KMS 2
14/5/13 10:48:23
Creative HEAD
Promotion
The frizz fixer It’s time to stiffen that upper lip and take back control, with KMS CALIFORNIA TAMEFRIZZ
TAMEFRIZZ SHAMPOO
TAMEFRIZZ CONDITIONER
PREPARES FOR FRIZZ REDUCTION
SMOOTHES AND REDUCES FRIZZ
TAMEFRIZZ TAMING CREME
TAMEFRIZZ’S MAGIC INGREDIENT IS PEQUI OIL – AN ANTIOXIDANTRICH BRAZILIAN FRUIT FOUND IN THE AMAZON THAT IS HIGH IN VITAMIN A AND E – BOTH KNOWN FOR TAMING FRIZZ
CONTROLS FRIZZ WITH LIGHT HOLD
•KMS 3
100 per cent frizz reduction and humidity resistance for up to three days!* How? It’s really simple (but very clever) – TAMEFRIZZ is a powerful fusion of technology and nature formulated using a De-frizz System (glycylglycine, silicone quaternium-22, phenyl trimethicone and pequi acacia oil), which works internally to increase pliability and externally to smooth the cuticle, improving how hair lies. So the next time you’ve got a client that’s stressed about their frizz, keep calm and give them TAMEFRIZZ by KMS California. A stress-free, frizz-free life is just a few steps away…
“I HAVE NEVER USED A PRODUCT THAT HAS MADE THAT MUCH OF A DIFFERENCE IN SMOOTHING THE HAIR – UNTIL NOW!” SONNA BRADO, US KMS CALIFORNIA ARTISTIC TEAM MEMBER
TAMEFRIZZ SMOOTHING LOTION
TAMEFRIZZ DE-FRIZZ OIL
“I CAN SEE A HUGE DIFFERENCE INSTANTLY IN THE WAY MY HAIR BEHAVES, LOOKS AND FEELS – I’M VERY IMPRESSED”
LIGHTWEIGHT OIL CONTROLS HUMIDITY AND FRIZZ FOR DAYS
DETANGLES AND MANAGES FRIZZ
MISS MAKE-UP MAGPIE, BEAUTY BLOGGER
*With use of the TAMEFRIZZ system: shampoo, conditioner, smoothing lotion or taming creme, and de-frizz oil
WHILE THE BRITISH might be famous for their reserve, a frizzy ’fro is enough to make even the best of us lose our composure. From the drizzle outside to the humidity of the trains and buses on our daily commutes, frizz has got to be one of our biggest hair fears. But what if we told you that smooth and manageable hair for your clients is just one range away? The sunny, happy people from KMS California wanted to make this dream come true for clients everywhere, which is why the brand has come up with a new line of products that promise to provide instant frizz control and manageability, with up to
15/5/13 16:21:11
Get in control
Now clients can fight frizz at home with TAMEFRIZZ Frizz Fighter kits, featuring shampoo, conditioner and de-frizz oil, as well as wide-toothed comb and sachets of TAMEFRIZZ smoothing lotion and taming creme Limited edition!
TAME YOUR CLIENTS’ FRIZZY AND UNRULY HAIR NOW. CALL 01323 413200 OR VISIT WWW.KMSCALIFORNIA.COM FOR MORE DETAILS
•KMS 4
14/5/13 10:49:03
SUBSCRIBE
SUBSCRIBE
and you shall receive…
FREE! a gift worth £58
for every subscriber GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE Creative HEAD and all supplements for 12 months for £25* Three Alterna Bamboo Smooth products, worth £58.** The Alterna products include: BAMBOO SMOOTH ANTIFRIZZ SHAMPOO, BAMBOO SMOOTH ANTI-FRIZZ CONDITIONER and BAMBOO SMOOTH KENDI INTENSE MOISTURE MASQUE Ten lucky subscribers will receive the complete ALTERNA BAMBOO SMOOTH ANTI-FRIZZ COLLECTION, worth £163.50**. The collection includes Anti-Frizz Shampoo, Anti-Frizz Conditioner, Kendi Intense Moisture Masque, Kendi Pure Treatment Oil, Kendi Dry Oil Mist, Frizz-Correcting Styling Lotion, Anti-Breakage Thermal Protectant Spray and Anti-Humidity Hair Spray
A year of CREATIVE HEAD for £25* AVAILABLE NOW AT www.creativeheadmag.com/subscribetochuk SUBSCRIPTIONS HOTLINE 01434 610935 *SUBSCRIPTION TERMS AND CONDITIONS The £25 subscription offer is valid for UK subscriptions only. Free gift changes monthly (see latest issue of Creative HEAD or visit www.creativeheadmag.com/ subscribetochuk for details of current offer) and is available while stocks last. Image shown is for illustration purposes only, actual gift may vary from that shown. Prize draw changes monthly. Free gift and prize draw will relate to the month in which the subscription is received. To enter the prize draw with an equal chance of winning without subscribing, send your name, address and telephone number either by email to: prizedraw@ headmag.co.uk or on a postcard to: Creative HEAD Subscriptions, Mallan House, Bridge End, Hexham, Northumberland NE46 4DQ. Entries to arrive no later than the 7th day of the following month. The prize draw is open to residents of the UK aged 16 and over. No purchase is necessary for entry into the prize draw. Winners will be drawn at random and notified by post. A list of winners will be available upon request. Subscriber and prize draw winners’ details will be shared with the gift provider in order for the offer to be fulfi lled, and subscribers and prize draw winners may be contacted by the provider to confirm receipt. Online subscriptions will be automatically renewed after 12 months, unless otherwise instructed by the subscriber. Subscribers will be notified of any increase to the subscription fee before payment is taken. For overseas rates (free gift and prize draw not applicable) please visit www.creativeheadmag.com/subscribetochuk or call 0044 1434 610935. **Based on RRP at time of going to press.
Creative HEAD 75
•75_Subsaw.indd 1
15/5/13 16:10:21
UNLEASH YOUR CREATIVITY WITH FUDGE PROFESSIONAL COLOUR NEW HEADPAINT BLONDES Long-lasting Permanent Hair Colour with Mallow and Rice Oil for superb brilliance and condition Created using NEW Headpaint Blonde shades 10.0, 10.1, 9.03 and 9.23
A PIGMENT OF YOUR IMAGINATION NEW PAINTBOX SHADES Created using NEW Turquoise Blue and Yellow Fever For more information visit www.fudge.com/professionals Or call on 020 7845 6333 facebook.com/fudgehair @FudgeHair
AD0973 Creative Head Curls DPS.indd 1
01/05/2013 12:12
THE TRUTH ABOUT
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AD0973 Creative Head Curls DPS.indd 2
01/05/2013 12:13
Want to add an extensions service to your salon menu but not sure where to start? We asked three salon managers why they went with Balmain Hair and how the service has not only brought them new clients, but also increased client loyalty and grown revenue
Hair by Vicky Turner, Goldsworthy’s Hairdressing
Grow your own way
Vicky Turner, director of Goldsworthy's Hairdressing, Cirencester “Our client profile for extensions varies between mostly adding volume to full lengthening services. DoubleHair is our most popular service and it has helped grow our retail business as most clients go on to buy pieces from its ready-to-wear range and aftercare products. It’s also great for repeat business as clients are constantly coming back for maintenance. Now 10 per cent of our business comes from extensions and every member of our team wears them.” Making Balmain Hair DoubleHair work for you…
What is it? A 9cm-wide strip of 40cm-long human hair. One piece has as
much hair as 18 standard extensions and creates a full head in 35 minutes. What does it do? Adds volume, colour and length.
Creative Head 82
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Hair by Salv Mule, Academy Salons
Hair by Christopher Appleton, George’s Hairdressing
Creative Head Promotion Promotion
Katie Katon, director of George's Hairdressing, Leicester
Salv Mule, director of Academy Salons, Surrey
“Our main focus in growing our extensions business has been to make sure our clients are getting the best possible service. Offering great consultations with a service plan in place has helped us to install confidence in the client so they know exactly how to maintain their look. Supplying quality hair is an absolute necessity, along with the right products to use at home. For this reason, we love Balmain Hair Fill-ins – the hair quality is fabulous.”
“Balmain Hair is ideal and we promote our extensions service through regular client evenings, local fashion shows and using the fantastic merchandising visuals from the brand. Our favourite product is Système Volume and we can’t stress enough that extensions are not just about length but are also great for providing texture, volume and colour. We also offer care consultations to our clients, which is one of the most important aspects of the service.” Making Balmain Hair Système Volume work for you…
Making Balmain Hair Fill-ins work for you…
What is it? One hundred per cent human hair, available in six
lengths and more than 80 colours. What does it do? Creates any colour effect and is completely risk-free.
What is it? A revolution for fine hair, using FluX technology and small, almost
invisible, silk tips, it’s 500 per cent quicker than standard fill-ins. What does it do? Creates long-lasting volume.
For more information on Balmain Hair extensions, call 0800 781 0936 or visit www.balmainhair.com
Creative Head 83
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10/5/13 12:31:18
Andrew Dale
Full e posure
The lights are on full beam, the stage is set, the audience is buzzing with excitement – it’s time to get Exposed! As a fashion-based brand, you’ll find UNITE Haircare behind the scenes at some of the hottest New York Fashion Week shows. Just take a look at UNITE backstage at the Hernan Lander A/W13 show at the Lincoln Center, and you’ll see the creativity in action. The hair styling fused dual textures, inspired by plastic and suede and perfectly complementing the mixture of textures on the runway such as leather and lace. It’s this fashion focus, as well as a desire to support professionals with technical and editorial education around the world, that drives UNITE Exposed. This is a series
of creative hair events that sees the brand’s senior artistic directors reveal the latest seasonal influences created from the fashion inspirations showcased on the runway. This is haute couture hair delivered in a ready-to-wear way – clean, motivational, imaginative presentations that showcase styling that’s perfect for the salon hairdresser with an imagination. And now, London is in on the act! At an intimate show at Shoreditch House’s exclusive Biscuit Tin venue, founder and president of UNITE, Andrew Dale, brought powerful editorial styling to an eager UK audience. Alongside UNITE head stylist David Fletcher from Harrod’s Urban Retreat, Dale presented key looks that demonstrated their creative approaches to cutting and
Creative Head 84
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Creative Head Promotion Promotion
David Fletcher
Fashion flair and editorial know-how that’s uniting the industry – be part of the action with UNITE Haircare
styling techniques, from the hottest editorial finish to the everyday look that you can create from behind the chair. The ‘unplugged’ and accesible nature of UNITE’s style evenings really lets you, the stylist, interact and question creative names like Dale and Fletch. “The most important part of any hair-up or session work is the preparation,” said Fletch, who created stunning editorial looks using a number of wigs and braiding. “By creating a good platform to work from with the right products you can achieve any look with minimal effort.” The night was a fantastic opportunity for UK creatives to get up close and personal with UNITE, a haircare brand that’s inspired by backstage and honed in the
salon to deliver products, education and opportunities that hairdressers crave. It’s fast becoming one of the most sought-after ranges in the UK, too, being raved about by editors at Elle, Stylist and Grazia. Savvy clients are now searching out these new hair heroes, and are seeking the salons that can provide them with UNITE Haircare and the expertise to help them look and feel brilliant. These are products are premium, professional and free from sulphates, parabens, gluten, sodium chloride, DEA and MEA – and are non-animal tested and PETA certified. UNITE is cool, creative, and has a conscience, too. And there’s a clear mission behind it – uniting the industry together to make it a better place. Isn’t that something you want to be part of?
For more information on how to be part of the UNITE family, call 0845 034 0770 or visit www.unitehair.co.uk
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The entlemen’s club A sophisticated range using fine ingredients that focus on what a man wants. This is GO24•7, created by the founders of UNITE
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Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion
A CLOSE SHAVE, A SHARP CUT... more and more men are taking pride in their appearance and the most distinguished man about town will always want excellence and integrity. It’s why GO24•7, the men’s grooming range created by the founders of professional haircare line UNITE, is found in the regime of the most discerning gentlemen. Fusing luxury and science, GO24•7 speaks their language, with solutions for fuss-free grooming. Available only from professional salons, GO24•7’s premium look and feel, partnered with the integrity of the ingredients, speaks volumes. It provides a complete grooming system that’s dedicated to men. While it offers hair, skin and body care, GO24•7 is simple to understand and simple to use. From the paraben and sulphatefree shampoo that’s trusted by the stars of sports and screen for a clean finish and flawless performance, to the vitamin-rich SPF 15 moisturiser for healthy, youngerlooking skin, GO24•7 is essential to the man
who wants to look his best. And while it’s helping men look great, the products look pretty great themselves, designed with a masculine, sexy look that appeals to guys and will please the ladies in their lives, too. GO24•7 has something for every step of the grooming routine – cleanser, face scrub, shaving cream, deodorant… it has all the basics covered in style, and the finishing tools to give him a groomed edge. All he needs are the clothes! And for salons, GO24•7 can help you make the most of the boom in grooming seen across the UK, with support to boost your business that includes merchandising materials such as golf towels, toiletry bags and totes, along with men’s grooming education to teach seasonal trends and classic shapes with a twist. With London Collections: Men creating a stir this summer, this is a prime time to be mad about the boys!
WANT TO JOIN THE BOYS’ BRIGADE? CALL UNITE ON 0845 034 0770 OR VISIT WWW.UNITEHAIR.CO.UK
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What goes on tour…
...normally stays on tour. But it was a different story when the Schwarzkopf Professional 2013 Colour Buzz collection from Essential Looks and the new and improved IGORA ROYAL range hit the road. Here’s what happened IT’S BEEN A BUSY couple of months for Schwarzkopf Professional as it took to the road to build excitement about its 2013 Colour Buzz collection and new Igora Royal range with four sensational shows. Taking in London, Glasgow, Manchester and Dublin, the events provided the perfect opportunity for the audiences to discover more about Schwarzkopf Professional’s Colour Buzz from Essential Looks, and the colours behind the collection using Igora Royal. The high definition Igora Royal range was launched and presented by head of colour for Mahogany Hairdressing Tai Walker and international and UK creative directors of Mahogany Hairdressing, Colin Greaney and Antony Licata.
The shows also provided the Mahogany team with the perfect excuse to showcase the depth and breadth of the Igora Royal shades with its own Rock Sensual collection. The excitement was palpable as Essentials Looks’ Colour Buzz came to life with its inspirational yet very achievable trends. Charlie Taylor of Charlie Taylor Hairdressing and John Carne’s Andy Smith gave their take on the fabulous four Essential Looks: elegant Glam Chic; rebellious Electric Youth, swinging Mono Mods and fierce White Angles. All in all, four great evenings, five fabulous hairdressing presenters and 1,400 hairdressers in attendance made for limitless inspirational opportunities and a whole lot of fun.
REALISE YOUR LOVE OF COLOUR WITH IGORA ROYAL FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, VISIT WWW.SCHWARZKOPF-PROFESSIONAL.COM, CALL 01296 31400 OR SEARCH ‘SCHWARZKOPFPROFESSIONALUNITEDKINGDOM’ ON FACEBOOK
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Creative HEAD
Andy Smith
Charlie Taylor
Promotion
WHERE? London, Manchester, Glasgow and Dublin WHEN? March and April AUDIENCE: More than 1,400 hairdressers attended the four events
WHO? Tai Walker, Colin Greaney and Antony Licata of Mahogany Hairdressing; Charlie Taylor of Charlie Taylor Hairdressing; and Andy Smith of John Carne WHY? UK and Ireland launch of Schwarzkopf
Tai Walker
Professional Igora Royal and the 2013 Colour Buzz collection from Essential Looks
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10/5/13 12:43:55
g Gianni Scumaci
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GIANNI SCUMACI
“The subject of hair is very much like the keyboard of a piano with each octave representing a different genre, for example theatre, film, salon and fashion. When the black and white keys are played they produce a colour”
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These are earley images of m e working onst-ag aged 14 my first show was to 250s hairdresser e in Lincolnshir
If you had overheard my phone conversation with Gianni Scumaci before our interview, you may have been a little concerned for my safety. “Meet me at 67 Dean Street. There is no number on the door so I will wait for you outside and then I’ll take you down to the basement,” says Gianni. Hysterical laughter ensued from both ends of the line and I, perhaps a little too hastily, agreed – I know how hard it is to pin down this scissor king! Yet despite his hectic schedule of high-profile campaign shoots, salon and session work, personal projects and mentoring the Joico Design Team as vision director – when we meet he tells his story like it’s never been told before… Words Lauren Margrave
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Behind the scenes on a Kate Spade campaign
Gianni scumaci
'The Fanni' on Sunset Boulevard I'd never seen my work that close up before
Vidal defied the notion of 'never get too close to your idol', he was always there for me The inception “I wanted a Rubik’s Cube and it cost £7, so my dad told me I had to work for it,” begins Gianni, who aged nine arrived at his father’s two-chair barbershop in Lincoln for his first day at work. For Gianni, hairdressing was definitely a family affair; his grandparents on both sides were hairdressers – one of whom opened the family barbershop more than 50 years ago in a converted council house – and at 21 his mother already owned a salon. By the age of 11 Gianni was cutting his woodwork teacher’s hair at school and charging his chums for a lunch break spruce up, before going home to work in his father’s shop. “I was inspired by Bruce Lee and adamant that practise makes perfect – to the point that my parents were worried I was too enthusiastic,” says Gianni. “I even gave up football. Hairdressing sustained our family and I wanted to be a part of it.” My hero It’s impossible to talk about Gianni’s career without reference to the late Vidal Sassoon. Fighting back the tears, Gianni, who shares a birthday with the hairdressing legend, cannot even begin to express his love and gratitude for the man. “He is in my soul,” says Gianni, who arrived in London aged 18 to be interviewed for the position of a Sassoon Varderer. “My mother was the first one to tell me about Vidal when I was a young boy. He had stopped her in the
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street once and after learning about him from such an impressionable age, I immediately had a strong sense that was where I wanted to work,” explains Gianni. “Either that or give up.” “Even though I was four years too young for the role, I was very honest and they gave me a chance. I lived in a hostel in Lancaster Gate and had no money, but I was living the dream – by the time I was 21 I was looking after 30 staff in the Sloane Street salon, the youngest was 16 and the oldest was 94! It was here that I became the brand’s youngest creative director.” Gianni adds: “In 1995 I had only been in London three weeks and I heard on the radio that Vidal was in town for London Fashion Week. I was determined to meet him, so I took my ‘Vidal Sassoon’ kit-bag to help me get through backstage security. I eventually got as far as the PR who wouldn’t let me through. She went and talked to Vidal in his private suite and he agreed to see me – the next thing I knew I was sitting with him watching the Alexander McQueen show. Vidal was always there for his staff, I wrote to him when I qualified and he wrote back an extraordinary letter, it was the beginning of a special connection.” Models and muses Hair aside, Gianni has also been responsible for numerous street castings for advertising campaigns and is constantly called upon by international modelling agencies to scout new faces and shape their look for new fashion trends. “Finding models just comes naturally to me,” he
10/5/13 13:11:37
Hanalore Knoutgues for Italian V ss - the dre p wouldn't kee I its shape so e had to hid ! underneath it explains. “I have an intuition, I sense something about them. It’s like hunting, you learn quickly how to survive and it’s become a big part of what I do.” His most famous catch was Swedish model Fanni Bostrom, who arrived in the salon with a bob and left with an eccentric but versatile take on a mullet that catapulted her to stardom. “Fanni wore skater chic and had a real brashness about her. I thought, ‘let’s test her attitude’ and I cut her hair. When she left I was expecting a call from her modelling agency to complain but they didn’t call because she never went back.” Instead, Bostrom went to a bar and was spotted by a photographer who wanted to use her for a campaign. Word of the look spread like wildfire through the trendsetting community on both sides of the Atlantic and Fanni went on to appear in editorials for The Face and Harper’s Bazaar, as well as walking for a number of American
and British designers. Gianni, too, was thrust into the spotlight, with a global tour of Europe, the US and the Far East, before being invited to Hollywood to advise Academy Award nominees on their visual presentation, which is where his next encounter with Vidal took place. “I was at the Academy Awards doing the hair in a hotel and the phone rang. It was Vidal, and he wanted to meet me the next day,” recalls Gianni. “He picked me up to take me for breakfast and insisted on driving me in his Jaguar to his home. I will never forget what he gave me on that visit, his advice, insight and guidance was overwhelming but it has shaped me as a hairdresser and a person ever since.” Back in the salon Today, Gianni continues to work with the best in the business, such as photographer David Bailey. “He is oldschool and only ever shoots on film,” explains Gianni.
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Gianni scumaci
Stella Tennant is my favourite model. This shot for Italian Vogue was taken on my 30th birthday on a beach in India 2.
A selection OF GIANNI’S INCREDIBLE EDITORIAL WORK FOR GQ AND BRITISH, ITALIAN AND JAPANESE VOGUE. ALSO PICTURED (1.) GIANNI WORKING ON A KEDS CAMPAIGN WITH PHOTOGRAPHER TIM WALKER AND (2.) ON SET WITH PATRICK DEMARCHELIER
1.
“He doesn’t suffer fools gladly but is one of the most sensitive people I have ever met, it’s a privilege to be around him. We share the same process, he seeks the truth within someone, finds it quickly and captures it.” It’s this process that Gianni uses with his clients at Stannard & Slingsby in Kensington, where he has worked in-between commitments for the past five years. “Ultimately, making someone feel good is what it’s always been about for me,” says Gianni. “Someone once said to me you have two ears and one mouth and you should use them in that ratio. The consultation is key to the most important element of it all – suitability.” About a brand When asked to sum up his career, Gianni replied: “What luck. I was exposed to a lot at a young age and have always been championed by great people. Now I want to give
something back.” It was this desire to give back that led Gianni to join haircare brand Joico as its vision director. Brought in to create a culture for the brand and develop a creative team, much of Gianni’s work is behind the scenes, which he believes puts him in a privileged position. “When I was first approached I saw a real opportunity for me to build a hairdressing family and help it to grow,” he says. Gianni acts as a mentor for the Joico Design Team and has a distinctively strong approach when working with it. “In today’s society it’s ingrained that everything should be instant, including career success,” he explains. “But it’s only in the dictionary that success comes before work.” As I listen to Gianni talk about the need to trust yourself, I can’t help thinking that his astounding success has as much to do with sheer determination and hunger for creativity as it does to do with luck.
Creative Head 95
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Roots of success
ONCE UPON A TIME “Doing the book is an idea I’ve had for a while, so when I was walking along Brick Lane one day and spotted my muse Jazmine coming out of a cafe, I went straight up to her and gave her my card and she called me that afternoon”
▲
When he’s not shooting with David Bailey for Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair, tending to clients’ tresses in the salon or devising programmes for Joico, Gianni spends his time directing personal projects that express his creativity. Most recently he has published his book, Hair. But don’t be fooled by the title, this visual feast is about so much more. See for yourself…
Photography by Colin Roy
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heads in the clouds “This shot was about combining art with science. The location was Mill Hill and each wig has a name and a character – the orange one was the cheeky one. On the day of shooting there were tonnes of kids out with their parents. At 5.30pm they left and we had about 15 minutes to shoot before the sun went down”
▲
▲
Gianni scumaci
shades of Grey “To create this look I stuck in hair wefts upside down to experiment with different shapes in the hair. I was inspired by Paul Arden, former art director at Saatchi & Saatchi, who said: ‘Whatever you think, think the opposite’”
▲ Edge of the rainbow “I see a many people dress hair really well but not many who cut hair well. Cutting has taken a back seat so I used paint to highlight the cut in this image”
▲ ▲
d a e h e t i v e a c r
more to see k and some? t n a W boo jects ianni’smazing pro m now! G m o fro other a mag.c of his reativehead C Go to
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16/5/13 15:06:35
•98-99_Nioxin 2
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Creative Head Promotion Promotion
The thick of it If we could, we’d blame it on our parents, or our diet, or even overuse of heated hair tools. However, the fact is there is no single cause of thinning hair, there are many. Clients with thinning hair need a little TLC and a whole lot of reassurance that their needs can be met. Addressing the look of thinning hair begins with understanding what causes and contributes to it. The reassurance comes with the right products to back up your knowledge. NIOXIN is here to help. Although its products and services do not cure hair loss and do not grow hair, they will make the most of what your clients have, delivering thicker, fullerlooking hair within 30 days.** DiaBoost by NIOXIN is an innovative leave-on treatment used to increase the thickness of each existing hair strand, for a fuller-looking head of hair. “The difference between DiaBoost and other thinning hair products is that this is a wearable treatment that thickens the hair, so you are treating your scalp and thickening your hair instantly, without weighing down fine hair,” says Paul Fensome, NIOXIN education manager.
DiaBoost’s revolutionary HTX complex includes caffeine (known to improve skin hydration for a thicker, healthier stratum corneum), panthenol (a derivative of vitamin B5, known for its strengthening and moisturisation benefits) and niacinamide (known for improving skin’s texture). Paul adds: “The combination of DiaBoost’s ingredients weightlessly thickens the hair strand, while maintaining the natural feel of the hair – it simply feels that no product has been added, yet the result is thicker-looking hair!” DiaBoost can be used alone or in conjunction with any of NIOXIN’s range of six tailored systems that comprise a cleanser shampoo, revitaliser conditioner and a scalp treatment, as well as its two intensive treatments and two scalp renew services. It can be used morning or evening, on wet or dry, natural or coloured hair, and works with all styling products. Clients simply spray DiaBoost onto the scalp and massage. It’s that easy. And the results? “The response has been amazing,” says Paul. “One client named it the little bottle of hope!”
The NIOXIN Guarantees
To build client’s confidence in NIOXIN, the brand is offering consumers a product guarantee when they buy new DiaBoost or any of the System Kits. DiaBoost guarantees to increase the thickness of each existing hair strand for a fuller-looking head of hair.*** See thicker, fuller-looking hair in 30 days, guaranteed with NIOXIN System Kits.***
*Global Hair Consumer Segmentation Study #WW06D630, 11,349 respondents. **Independent market research conducted in 2009 among 11,349 consumers concerned about thinning hair in the US. ***Proof of purchase required. Applies to System Kits and DiaBoost only. Open to UK and Ireland residents aged 18 and above. Offer valid on purchases up to 31/12/2013. Guarantee must be redeemed within three months of purchase. Full terms and conditions available at Nioxin.co.uk. This does not affect your statutory rights.
More than half of all male and female clients have thinning hair.* Find out how you can help your clients achieve thicker, fuller-looking hair with NIOXIN DiaBoost
Boost your clients’ locks now with NIOXIN. Contact your Wella account manager, call 01202 595700 or visit www.nioxin.co.uk for more information
Creative HEAD 99
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the finest Italian salon range exclusive to Salon Services Vezzosi offers a range of beautifully designed and stylish salon equipment. With more than 35 years of experience, Vezzosi has catered for leading salons all over the world. Through their collaborations with influential designers, high quality craftsmanship and attention to trends, Vezzosi captures the beauty of contemporary design, creating a perfect fusion between functionality and cutting edge style.
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win!
a Supersonik Colour Backwash Unit** worth ÂŁ5,999 Ex. VAT
simply go to... www.salon-services.com/winsupersonik or scan the QR code to your smartphone‌
Ask in store for details and pick up a catalogue or view the collection online www.salon-services.com A collection of Vezzosi equipment is available to view in our Islington store showroom. For all enquiries, please call 0845 600 1580. Please note calls will be charged at a local rate. Mobile and other network costs may vary.
save
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Simply take this voucher into your nearest Salon Services or Sally store or enter the code VEZZOSI online, to receive your 25% discount... *This offer is valid for only one transaction per customer, on surrender of this voucher until and including 31st August 2013 and is only available to Trade Card holders in UK Sally, Salon Services and Sally Salon Services stores only. This offer is also available online at www.salon-services.com by entering the code VEZZOSI at the online checkout. This offer is only available on the Vezzosi salon equipment range and excludes clearance items and ex-display items that have already been discounted. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion. This offer cannot be used on a VAT free day. The discount is available on Vezzosi salon equipment orders paid in full on the day ordered. Certain equipment items are direct from the supplier only and are subject to a longer lead-time, delivery charges may apply. Salon Services reserve the right to correct any printing or illustrator errors.
4 4 4 9 2 6
**Competition terms and conditions apply, for full details go to www.salon-services.com/winsupersonik
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10/04/2013 14:53
Should I stay or should I
go?
ients happy can l c d an ff a st ur yo Keeping works for one t ha w – t ac g in nc la ba a be a bit of he for another. Ensure salon could be a catastrop e, with our review av both sides never want to le got it spot on! of the salons that have s – Dolce Like all great partnership ’s, Posh & Gabbana, Ben & Jerry one & Becks – you can’t have e same without the other, and th and goes for your salon’s staff amentals clients. They’re the fund d need of a productive salon an n. constant care and attentio e th best Here, we review some of mes and salon initiatives, program ents. incentives for staff and cli
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Hair: Headmasters Pro Artistic Team. Make-up: Andriani Vasilou. Creative director and styling: Sophie Beresiner. Photography: Paul Farrell.
gaining loyalty
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gaining loyalty
Ahead of the game When it comes to keeping staff and clients happy, it’s all about education, communication and innovation at Headmasters On staff retention
It’s good to talk When Raju Raymond, chief executive of Headmasters, joined the salon group, he saw what needed to change straight away. “Communication across the group needed to be improved to give staff access to knowledge immediately,” he says. Headmasters now has an intranet, enabling teams to access vital information quickly and easily. “There is also a staff Facebook page, which again opens up communication between salons and senior management in a less formal forum,” adds Raju. Give staff incentives – and they’ll love you forever, reveals Raju. These don’t have to be expensive; the odd treat can make a world of difference. Headmasters has a Staff Benefits Programme, which is a brand partnership scheme to give staff discounts for the likes of Nails Inc, The Sanctuary and Thomas Cook. Let’s get educated “We have designed the Headmasters Revealed course for all new starters, which includes two weeks of tailored technical education to perfect their skills before they hit the salon floor,” says Raju. While the cost of the Revealed course is £1,150 per person, it has been the group’s most effective initiative in retaining staff to date. “At Headmasters, we believe in investing in the team,” says Fran Shears, head of technical education for the salon group. Review, review, review Staff at the salons have an appraisal every six weeks. While some might consider this a little much, Headmasters uses it to track stylists’ progress and if they are doing well they will be promoted according to the group’s promotion criteria, says John Sanders, chairman of Headmasters.
On client retention
Do you know who I am? The Headmasters VIP Club initiative has proved to be a very effective retention strategy. “This is a members-only club that not only gives huge savings on essential hair maintenance, but members also get to hear first about sales, special events and promotions,” says Emma Freeman, head of marketing for the salon group. Staying in touch “We have found it’s really important to provide clients with avenues to contact us,” says Emma, who references the chain’s website as one of the most important tools for keeping clients engaged. Clients can also contact the group via Facebook and Twitter, as well as customer feedback forms. “A quick and concise response is imperative when offering this type of service. Complaints will always happen, but if they are dealt with professionally these clients can often become your most loyal,” explains Emma. When will we see you again? It’s 10-times more expensive to gain new clients, than retain the ones you’ve got explains Raju, who adds that the group offers all clients a 10 per cent discount if they rebook on the day of their appointment in the salon.
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excitement THE MOST WANTED AND IT LIST GRAND FINAL Monday 2 September
Natural History Museum London SW7 5BD Tickets £210 Tables of ten £1,900 All food, drinks and entertainment included
BOOK NOW! Call 01434 610940 Creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted Creativeheadmag.com/theitlist
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GAINING LOYALTY
Life-long loyalty Samurai training and extensive in-house education – oh my! London’s MICHAEL VAN CLARKE likes think outside the box ON STAFF RETENTION
Keep them keen “We are constantly looking to do things differently,” says Russell McGrath, operations director for Michael Van Clarke (MVC). From samurai training to management life mastery, the salon aims to help its staff in all aspects of life. “The team activities are a quarterly event and it’s a great opportunity for everyone to get together and get to know one another a bit better.” Nurture talent, grow skills “I believe the new MVC Academy will make the biggest difference to retaining staff,” says Russell. While it’s still in its infancy, the MVC Academy has put a lot of focus onto apprentices. “When I started last September we had two apprentices; we are about to see that number grow to 10,” reveals Russell. “The system of NVQ and MVC education running parallel is key in keeping younger members focused and making them productive very quickly.” Take it one day at a time The salon carries out daily meetings for stylists as a way of keeping them focused on the day at hand. Since the meetings started in mid-February, it has seen in-salon treatments and retail sales triple. ‘The more you take the more you make’ MVC believes that every stylist can achieve whatever they desire. Tracking a team member’s performance every day helps them be aware of what they can earn. “A happy environment is fundamental; making sure everyone is going in the right direction, meeting and coaching every member of the team is of the highest importance,” says Russell.
ON CLIENT RETENTION
Go with the blow When it comes to retention, the salon does not do loyalty cards. “If you start a loyalty card, it is not easy to remove it,” explains Russell. Instead, it has found its blow-dry packages the most effective: “They have been well received – we have a lot of clients who visit the salon daily and others who come in a few times a week. Offering a package of 25 or 50 blowdrys paid upfront enables clients to get a better rate,” he adds. Are staff on the same page? “Retaining clients is simply a question of every team member being educated in all aspects of the salon,” says Russell. “Offering the highest levels of customer service, along with great hairdressing, and an ability to listen to what each client desires time and time again means they will return.” Consultation is everything MVC puts the client consultation at the top of its client retaining agenda, often carrying out roleplay sessions in team meetings and in appraisals. “I speak about the power of the consultation all the time,” says Russell. “Gaining rapport and bonding goes a long way to becoming your client’s hairdresser for life.”
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Manage your hair salon with the NEW Casio EPoS Solution Android is a technology we are all used to when it comes to smartphones, the platform controls roughly half of the UK market. But what if we take this reliance on smart technology to organise our business, as well as our personal lives?
Enter the Casio VR-100 business support terminal – a device that manages your reservations, stock data, bank card payments, customer loyalty schemes, all at the point of sale. The range of applications available through the Android platform make the VR-100 a great tool to help grow your business. And through a new partnership with CardSave, it’s available from just £2.50 per day. For more information
T 0800 0773 231 E epos@cardsave.net
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Cloud Nine Advert Creative Head_Layout 1 20/04/2013 17:23 Page 1
Altogether kinder styling
www.cloudninehair.com
Know Your Hair Love your Hair
We have one mission in life - to create the very best, professionally approved, hairstyling tools and products to help women all over the world achieve the styles they love: sexy straight, gorgeous volume and wonderful waves and curls, all styled at the optimum temperature without causing unnecessary heat damage. We call it ‘Altogether kinder styling’. Find out more at: www.cloudninehair.com
GAINING LOYALTY
Adding value From 12 must-ask questions to competitions and extra holiday days, URBAN RETREAT has some top retention tips ON STAFF RETENTION
Just ask When it comes to figuring out how happy your staff are, just get them to answer 12 simple questions [see page 114], advises Marcus Allen, group salon head at Urban Retreat at Harrods. “We are focusing on 12 questions derived from a worldwide study on staff retention and happiness,” says Marcus. The questions range from understanding their job role and receiving recognition to having the right materials and tools to carry out their job well. “It has become increasingly obvious that the way to ensure better performance in the workplace is to find out how we can make staff feel valued, happy and, above all, that they are the key to the success of our business,” adds Marcus. The answers supplied help Urban Retreat to determine staff needs and create a bespoke action plan suited to that employee. This clearly works, as the average staff member stays between seven and 10 years. Going anywhere nice? Urban Retreat provides an additional day’s holiday for every full year worked (up to five years) – an initiative that has proven to be a great success and a real driving force to end every working year on a high. The Harrods staff discount is also a great incentive. “We feel it is important that staff can be part of our luxury brand without having to pay high prices,” says Marcus. Transparency is key Urban Retreat always makes sure any potential employee is aware of the procedures and protocols at the interview stage – any later and you’ve lost the moment to be upfront and honest with them. Marcus explains: “The most important thing is to be transparent and ensure that every staff member is fully aware of all procedures and protocols affecting pay, holiday and job satisfaction.”
ON CLIENT RETENTION A little competition is good Urban Retreat runs monthly ‘data drive’ competitions that involve customers providing their details, which in turn offers them the chance to win gifts worth as much as £500. “We try to alternate prizes between hair, beauty and skincare so clients have a chance to win something they really want,” says Marcus. Every little helps While Urban Retreat doesn’t run its own loyalty scheme, the Harrods Reward card has proven to be a huge success with both staff and clients; it offers 10 per cent off and a chance to build points every time they buy a product or service at Urban Retreat – one of the salon’s key ways of ensuring a client’s return. Make-or-break consultation “The consultation is the number one reason why a client doesn’t return to a business,” says Marcus. Urban Retreat is now in phase two of a new consultation programme for both hair and colour – its beauty department has already redesigned its whole process. “We see it as the ‘first impression’ and we need this to be the very best, each and every time,” he adds.
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GAINING LOYALTY
The extra mile
TOMMY’S HAIR COMPANY leaves no stone unturned, covering everything from awards to guest experience managers
ON STAFF RETENTION
We want you! When it comes to retaining staff, Tommy’s believes it starts with recruiting the right people. “We’re passionate about our recruitment, continually training and motivating, and ultimately retaining our team by providing them with ongoing opportunities that excite,” says salon co-founder Esther van der Veken. To do this, Tommy’s has a continuous recruitment programme so prospective employees can contact the salon group all-year round. Utilising the web and social media, regional educational providers, local events and its own team, Tommy’s is constantly increasing awareness of its career opportunities. Good education To ensure consistency across all of its salons, Tommy’s has developed a central training facility. “Tommy’s Academy provides a high level of continuous education and training to every member of the team, with an exciting programme that is designed to encourage teamwork, inspire creativity, support salon systems and keep teams stimulated and focused on career goals,” she says. It clearly pays off, as Tommy’s enjoys a 91 per cent team retention rate with 90 per cent of the current team having successfully progressed from the academy. Recognise and reward greatness Tommy’s holds an annual Team Achievement Awards, which recognises and celebrates individuals and team excellence. The awards are held on the evening of Tommy’s annual ‘New Year New You’ session where the entire team gathers in its Ruthin salon for a day of review, planning and team building. “Our Team Achievement Awards are a fun and motivating way for us to bring the entire team together to say thank you and reward the dedication and hard work of team members,” explains Esther.
ON CLIENT RETENTION
Review customer care “The current global recession has changed the way clients think,” says co-founder Tommy van der Veken. “They want real value for money and to experience genuine care.” To keep up with the changing times, Tommy’s has reassessed clients’ journeys through the salons and initiated added extras. First impressions count After several years of working with receptionists, Tommy felt that the role could be expanded and improved upon, which is why each Tommy’s salon now has a fully trained ‘guest experience manager’, whose role is to drive customer service within salons and ensure guests get the Tommy’s Experience. Make the most of technology To further strengthen its client retention, Tommy’s employs the Shortcuts Enterprise system within its business. “Enterprise provides detailed, centralised reporting and has removed several admin tasks from the team, allowing them to spend more time on guest management and care,” he says. Tommy’s client rebooking rate of 88 per cent is proof that when done right, technology, education and customer care make all the difference.
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gaining loyalty
Look, listen and learn
The Stuart Holmes Hair and Beauty Spa likes to listen, creating opportunities for staff and incentives for clients On staff retention
‘Create, educate and motivate’: This is The Stuart Holmes Hair and Beauty Spa motto, applying it to everything the salon does. “From a staff point of view, we encourage creativity and provide a wide range of artistic opportunities,” says co-owner Sara Holmes. Stylists can become a part of the salon’s Art Team as well as take part in its Set The Trend competition – an in-salon scheme that allows all team members to show off their creative talents. “Nurturing your stylists’ creativity is an essential component of a successful salon team,” says Sara. Hello, can you hear me? “One area we pride ourselves most on is that we listen to our staff. It is important who all staff – no matter what level they are at in their career – feel valued,” reveals Sara. The Cheltenham-based salon does this by giving public recognition to staff members that provide valuable business or creative input. She adds: “If staff members are asking for particular opportunities or support, we go out of our way to explore their feasibility.” Professional opportunities Stuart Holmes makes a point of supporting staff and facilitating a range of professional opportunities. “From taking part in competitions to having the opportunity to attend industry events, we ensure staff are achieving everything they want to in their careers,” says Sara. Everyone counts Never underestimate how good it feels to be valued. “We hold an annual forum to give staff a chance to discuss how they would like the company to develop,” explains Sara. The salon also holds staff meetings every eight weeks to let everyone discuss their likes and dislikes. “The idea is to give them a voice,” she says. “We like to feel we are very open about the business, which I think helps.”
On client retention
Monitor data The Stuart Holmes salon is hot on data and can see customer purchasing patterns, enabling them to see where customer loyalty programmes have worked and where they haven’t. Make them feel special Loyalty programmes, when they are targeted at specific people, are a good way to inspire clients to return to your salon. Stuart Holmes recently launched Indulgence, a programme that’s been designed especially to reward clients. “The aim is to provide customers with a solid benefit of being a Stuart Holmes client, inspiring brand loyalty,” says Sara. But the salon has taken this one step further: stylists know that they can put someone forward for a spot of birthday indulgence and that the salon will ensure the necessary action is taken. Let’s get social A big advocate of social media, the salon uses Facebook to run promotions, advertise last-minute cancellation appointments and recruit staff. “We also use it for salon news. We can see how many people have been exposed to our message,” explains Sara.
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gaining loyalty
Action You’ve read all about it so now it’s time to take action! Get life-long loyalty from staff and clients with our handy must-do steps Five simple steps to ensure staff stay put:
• Get staff to answer the 12 questions The following questions will help to almost guarantee a successful business: Do I know what’s expected of me at work? Do I have the tools to do my work well? Do I have the opportunity to do what I do best every day? In the past week, have I received recognition for good work? Does my supervisor care about me? Is there someone at work who encourages my development? At work, do my opinions count? Does the mission of my company make me feel that my job is important? Are my co-workers committed to doing quality work? Do I have a best friend at work? In the past six months, has someone at work talked to me about my progress? This past year, have I had opportunities at work to learn and grow? • Plan ahead Based on your staff answers to the above 12 questions, you can figure out what your team members enjoy most and what you need to improve on. The next step is to draw up a plan of what you can do to make them happier. • Recognise a job well done In-salon annual award ceremonies are a good way of showing your team that you not only value them, but that you’ve recognised they’ve done a good job. • Incentivise There’s nothing wrong with competition, so introduce incentives for retail sales or offer discounts in high street stores: show your team hard work pays off. • Educate A good and committed team will always want to keep learning, so make sure you know where each of your staff members want to be in five and 10 years’ time with reviews.
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plan FIVE READY-TO-GO CLIENT RETENTION STEPS:
• Exceed expectations La Biosthétique’s latest Beauty Ritual initiative is a 10-step ritual, covering everything from the moment the client is given a welcome drink and check-in card to providing hand and arm massages and make-up touch-ups. “By touching all of the client’s senses during their visit, the salon has exceeded their expectations and introduced them to additional treatments that they can book on their next visit,” says Joy Kellaway, operations and marketing manager at La Biosthétique. • Know your products From being able to advise on the right shampoo and conditioner to the hairbrushes that make a difference, your staff need to know their products; one of the main advantages a salon has over a supermarket is hands-on advice. Kent Brushes does a salon-exclusive KentSalon range that has already caught the eye of top hairdressing professionals such as George Northwood, whose recommendations are a great selling point for clients. • Gain loyalty through interaction Most salons lose clients through indifference – the best way to stop clients feeling this is by interacting with them. Facebook, Twitter and your own website are brilliant ways to encourage interaction – as long as you make sure you respond to all queries quickly and update your sites. Exclusive in-salon events are also a good way of promoting loyalty as clients love to feel that little bit extra special, so indulge them! • Target your promotions One size doesn’t fit all, so if you do want to offer promotions or discounts, make sure you’ve thought it all through as once you introduce an offer, it can be hard to end it. Loyalty cards are a good way of encouraging clients to return as are VIP members’ cards, and birthday discounts or offering a discount on the anniversary of a client’s first visit. • Embrace technology Augmented reality is the future, so whether it’s through implementing new technological applications to improve the customer experience or integrating it into your own salon software system, embracing technology needs to start now. Letting clients make video calls by Skype is a good and easy place to start and you can also use it as a consultation tool when clients are too short on time to come into the salon but wish to get some advice from a stylist.
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fashion
“We did tonnes of research for this collec tio n on what women wa nt from their hair. We met with tho usa nds of con sum ers and put a collec tio n tog ether tha t contains the top loo ks women tru ly desire”
“IT’S REALLY EASY TO RECREATE THIS LOOK, THE KEY IS TO BUILD TEXTURE INTO THE HAIR W ITH PRODUCTS AND THEN WHEN THE HAIR IS IN THE HIGH PONYTA IL, LOOSEN THE TEXT URE TO KEEP IT LOO KING SOFTER AND MO RE CASUAL. CLIENTS LOVE IT”
“W ith the styling w e w anted it to be ultra-feminine, w ith a da ytim e vib e. The aim w as to crea te a timeless look , so w e w ent w ith w ardrob e ba sics like the w hite T- sh irt”
“THE MAKE-UP IS LINKED TO THE SEXIEST AND MOST FEMININE ERA, THE ’60S, BUT WE ADDED A BIT OF COLOUR AND A FEW SUBTLE TOUCHES TO BRING THE EYES UP-TO-DATE”
STORYBOARD HONING IN ON THE NEEDS OF THEIR FEMALE CLIENTS, THE SAKS ART TEAM LAUNCHES ITS EASY-TO-STYLE DESIRE COLLECTION, LED BY ART DIRECTOR ALISON DACE Creative HEAD 119
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Fashion
All woman
Versatile and timeless. Here are the styles at the top of clients’ wish lists, courtesy of the Saks Art Team Photography Catherine Harbour
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Hair Alison Dace and the Saks Art Team Make-up Lan Nguyen Styling Emma Saville
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Cross to bear Inspired by dual texture on the S/S13 runways, Joe Causier isn’t scared to break with convention, creating a collection that sits somewhere between ’90s grunge and ethereal beauty
Photography Lee Page
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Fashion
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Hair Joe Causier of Malcolm Murphy Hair Make-up Molly Turrel Model Charlotte Hanna
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The look of love
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Having our work featured on the Creative HEAD App was superb! This is exactly what our industry needs right now – we can see our own imagery, be inspired on the go and our salon guests can enjoy it too! Angela Lowery, Y Salon
14/5/13 10:46:23
THE LAST WORD
Act with integrity Everything within your salon must reflect the values that are true to your brand – it’s how you build trust, explains UNITE’s Andrew Dale
Trust is a value that is integral to success, both personally and professionally. They say ‘trust is not given, it must be earned’, and I believe that your integrity is key to building a lasting impression. Throughout my career – starting as an assistant, moving to a senior platform artist, owning salons and now creating and running haircare brands UNITE, GO24•7 and U LUXURY – I have gained a further understanding of how essential integrity is and the importance of transparency for others to see it. Since beginning at the age of 16 with Sassoon, I have always found that the salon is a brand, whether there are two or 30 stylists. Every aspect of the salon must fit together to provide the same vision. By definition, integrity is the concept of consistency and honesty of your actions, values, expectations and outcomes. In order for the salon to have integrity, every facet within the salon must reflect those concepts. This means that each individual, every product and every interaction must reflect the values that are true to the brand that your salon is to represent. Clients depend on their stylist for knowledge; they trust that the stylist knows which haircut will look best,
which colour placement will accentuate their cut and their features, and which products to rely on to maintain the health and style. While the cut and colour are within the control of the stylist, they must have trust in the products that they are recommending, as they are an extension of how the client views and trusts their stylist, and therefore the salon, too. While owning my five salons throughout southern California, I felt as though we were missing that final key. I wanted to find a brand that would align with my salon values and help to support the stylists. That’s why I created UNITE and that mission is true to this day. Providing products that you can have confidence in the performance and integrity of is essential as a reflection of a salon brand. As a stylist and salon owner, I feel that finding a professional product line that has been created by a stylist purely to support stylists is essential to the understanding and confidence of the products that a salon represents.
H
Andrew Dale is founder of UNITE. Want to have your say? Email Lauren@headmag.co.uk
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