£4.50 MAY 2019
In print•online•everywhere!
MAY 2019 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
Tell me everything Your salon, your story. How will you share it?
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COVER CREDITS HAIR Anthony Mascolo and Kieron Fowles at Regis using TIGI Copyright Styling COLOUR Christel Lundqvist using TIGI Copyright©olour STYLING Jiv D MAKE�UP Katie Moore PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Barron-Hough
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EVERY CLIENT STORY is worth telling. The TIGI Copyright range begins with bespoke colour and treatments, followed by customised aftercare and a perfect ending of revolutionary styling products, so clients’ style will live happily ever after. Whether it’s in-salon or at the TIGI Academy, partner salons receive detailed and tailored education to build on their technical and product knowledge, learn about emerging trends and discover inspirational creative cut and colour concepts. The fully intermixable copyright©olour range provides your clients with the perfect bespoke look, while TIGI Copyright Care keeps everything in top condition from root to tip. Utilise targeted treatments to protect your colour work, which includes a range of three concentrated Boosters and the SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment that repairs hair in just five minutes. All the ingredients you need to craft an enchanting story... The cohesive TIGI copyright©olour and Copyright Care system is designed to support salons in growing their colour business, increasing client loyalty with enhanced services, and offering fantastic aftercare products to help develop a stronger retail business. For Andrew Collinge and his team, it’s the customised finish that keeps his clients coming back for more. “We enjoy the individuality of working with Copyright as it’s a compact range of products but with the ability to intermix between them to create bespoke colours,” he explains. “Copyright Care has a similar philosophy. We can now analyse each client’s hair and adapt formulations to suit accordingly, resulting in a fabulous, wellconditioned hair.” With everything you need at your fingertips from TIGI, what story will you create?
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Create your own story. Tell it your way.
This year sees us celebrate a decade with TIGI and since we first took on copyright©olour we have seen great results for our clients.
Andrew Collinge Andrew Collinge, Liverpool
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Once upon
a time… Without a strong opening you lose your clients’ interest for good. Here’s how to keep them hooked
NAVIGATE THE TRICKY consultation phase like a pro and learn to tell your client’s story through colour with TIGI’s Creative Consultation Expert course. New for 2019, it’s designed to help colourists elevate their services by nailing the consultation phase every time. Learning to effectively communicate colour options and changes with every type of client is no mean feat. This course teaches stylists how to adapt their style and language to result in more positive experiences, both for them and their client. Learning how to adapt and craft a winning colour that fits their situation and their personality… that’s the dream that TIGI can make a reality. From the moment the client sits in your chair until the moment they leave the salon, they are trusting you to understand what they want to achieve with their look – or in some cases, for you to guide them. This advanced approach to consultation focuses on personalising a colour story to suit every client, allowing you to confidently meet their vision with flattering tones that are perfect for their complexion, personality and unique sense of style. No cookie-cutter options, always tailored results. Students of the course can expect to gain a host of communication ideas to implement in client consultations, as well as a strong understanding of seasonal trends and how they affect colour techniques and palettes. Students can expect to brush up on their knowledge and understanding of how to creatively intermix TIGI copyright©olour to give a totally bespoke service. With all of this prep work, participants will have the confidence to write their own story, creating flattering shades for clients that will keep them hooked until the last page. No cliff hangers here, only thrilled clients.
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Since we started carrying out the Creative Consultation in our salon we have noticed an up-tick in colour services sales. It has also enabled us to gain greater confidence to consult our clients, as we are spending more time with them.
Robbie Robertson
Forresters, Reading
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InFUSE your passion and creativity Develop your own story arc with education from TIGI FUSE at your disposal 24/7
LEARNING HOW TO create the perfect picture takes time. Imagery and education have always been at the creative heart of TIGI and the work of its founder, Anthony Mascolo. TIGI’s story is underpinned by Anthony’s creative journey and desire to share both his work and that of his team with the world. In this instant digital era, so far away from the first grainy video footage he recorded, he believes it’s as important as ever to push forward with ongoing education.
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FUSE is the next chapter. Recognising that not every salon has the opportunity, or time, to send team members to the TIGI Academies, FUSE has been created to provide an online platform to share information and inspiration. After all, you never know when an idea might strike you. An always-on hub of creative ideas, collaborations, news, informative material and inspiration, FUSE is regularly updated to balance both the heritage of TIGI and its boundary-breaking, forward-thinking creatives.
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FUSE is an ongoing story of our work that allows us to push what we do to the next level: collaborate with like-minded hairdressers, share insights and ideas, and keep hairdressers across the globe constantly informed.
This is an exciting project allowing us to bring our work to an even wider audience. I’m particularly excited to be able to show new techniques and inspiration to colourists, as well as see the past work Anthony has created.
Anthony Mascolo
Christel Lundqvist Akos Bodi
TIGI founder and international artistic director
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TIGI global technical creative director
FUSE allows us to share everything and reach more hairdressers. Whether it’s backstage, new cuts we’ve created in one of our academies, shoots we’ve done in our studio or out on the street, we’ll cover it all.
TIGI European creative director
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Story time
Every story needs heroes… and with TIGI copyright©olour and Copyright Care, these salons are able to write their own narrative HAIR Terry and Vicky Steventon MAKE-UP Katie Tighe STYLING Jiv D PHOTOGRAPHY Mauro Carraro
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We love copyrightŠolour and Copyright Care! It has been a game-changer for us, a major jump in the evolution of care products. Our clients love it, we love it and our bank account loves it! TIGI Copyright has opened up creative possibilities and helps us provide a better result and service. Colour is such a major part of our business and now we have the care range to complement that.
Terry Steventon Terry Steventon Hairdressing, Bournemouth
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HAIR Ellie Hancock and the MINT Hair London team MAKE�UP Katie Tighe STYLING Jiv D PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Barron-Hough
We’ve worked with TIGI copyright©olour since opening the salon five years ago and have seen excellent results. I had high hopes that TIGI Copyright Care would hit the same marks but it’s gone even further!
Anthony Laban
Mint Hair London, Battersea, London
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The TIGI Copyright Care system has slotted in perfectly alongside TIGI copyright©olour, providing Forresters’ clients with a range of personalised prescriptive treatments. We were super-excited with the launch of the styling range; clients can maintain their copyright©olour condition and style between salon visits. It’s so important to us that clients see our salon group’s commitment to the TIGI brand, as it reassures them of the quality and effectiveness of the range; it also builds client loyalty, which is key to our business.
Gemma Forrester Forresters, Reading
HAIR Adrian Leonard, Gemma Forrester, Stuart Forrester, Dom Rolfe MAKE�UP Min Sandhu STYLING Jiv D PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Barron-Hough
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Tales from
backstage
TIGI Copyright Care helps you to craft stories, whether you’re in the salon, on set or backstage at Fashion Week. Here’s how TIGI European session director Maria Kovacs created a character at the Mark Fast A/W19 show
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TIGI EUROPEAN SESSION director Maria Kovacs heads the TIGI Session Team across international Fashion Weeks. Her patience, creative understanding and ability to translate ideas has endeared her to many designers across the seasons in the highly-pressurised world of backstage styling. In line with TIGI’s sharing and educational philosophy, after each Fashion Week, Maria creates a detailed, seasonal TIGI Catwalk Collective trend guide, circulated to salons and beauty press with ‘get the look’ steps and trend information. “This season Mark Fast referenced ’50s pin-ups, so I wanted to create a glamorous style but with a modern twist. I loved creating the set look, this is something we haven’t seen on the runway for a number of seasons,” says Maria. “I always love to hear Mark’s inspiration for the look as it helps us create the perfect collaboration.” With the right products on hand, Maria is always ready to create the perfect character for every story.
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Rework the ending TIGI Copyright Care SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment is here to edit out the damage IF CLIENTS ARE coming to you for Rapunzelesque lengths that seem entirely out of reach, brace yourself for this plot twist. TIGI Copyright Care SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment is changing haircare – clients and stylists alike who try it are blown away by the results that this miracle treatment can produce. Containing 100-times more keratin than standard shampoo and conditioner, this treatment
has been proven to repair internal damage to return strands to virgin strength. And all in just five minutes! It couldn’t be easier to use, with no mixing required. Whether you’re using as a pre-colour base to improve damaged locks or leaving a smooth finish at the end of a visit, it’s the perfect opportunity to add a big smile on their face at the end result… and to add a little on to their final bill, too!
We’ve been using TIGI Copyright SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment and the results are remarkable! Our clients are really noticing a difference to their hair, which is fantastic.
SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment has raised our colour work delivery to the next level and is giving us results on damaged hair that were previously unattainable.
Lawrence Anthony, Banbury
Anthony Laban Home, London
Lawrence Cole Anthony Laban
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Shelfie Colour Lustre Oil
Meet some of the TIGI characters to populate your stories… Blended with coconut oil, Colour Lustre Oil is the perfect after-care product for coloured hair. It really illuminates the colour, smoothing any frizziness and adds tonnes of shine. It can also protect against UV damage, and has added conditioning properties so it’s a great product to recommend to colour clients going on holiday
Warren Boodaghians Firm Hold Curl Cream
TIGI global academy technical creative director
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This is a great product for creating longlasting curls and waves. Infused with coconut oil and keratin, Firm Hold Curl Cream fortifies and nourishes the hair to give smooth definition, lasting hold and protection from humidity
Joshua Mascolo TIGI creative director
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
time Volume Lift Styling Spray
…and take residence on your client’s bathroom shelves
This has become a go-to product for me! For perfect finishes every time, Volume Lift Styling Spray adds volume and lift straight to the roots to create body, alongside added grip for easy styling and long-lasting, buildable hold
Maria Kovacs
Multi Tasking Styling Cream
TIGI European session director
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This is a great product to use in the salon and to recommend for your client’s own hairstyle regime. It creates thicker-feeling hair due to added keratin and is the perfect base for any hairstyle, whether you’re creating an up-do for a special event or a frizz-free, loose finish. It’s an absolute multi-tasker!
Akos Bodi
TIGI European creative director
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Are you ready to write your next chapter?
With TIGI as your narrator, guiding and supporting you through your tale, you’ll be amazed at what you can achieve
Contact TIGI today to see how its education and product portfolio can help you shape a best-selling journey. Call 01525 621460 or visit tigiprofessional.com @tigiprofessionals @TIGIPro
/TIGIprofessional
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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE
EDUCATION
EVENTS
INSPIRATION
CREATIVE HEAD STORE
COMPETITIONS
EXCLUSIVE
Raspberry pink flashes through a peachy haze – check out Ginger Lemon Hair’s ‘Rhodochrosite’, inspired by the crystal colours of the rare mineral
In conversation with… Robert Eaton. Press play on our latest film, where we get tonal with the Wella Professionals technical director
creativeheadmag.com
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Blue and green should never be seen? Stuff that! Tearing up the rule book is all the rage, so we explore the trend for ugly-beautiful colour work
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The Coterie descended on Dublin for the first time! A stellar line-up headed to the Emerald Isle to share their stories – catch up now
@creativeheadmag
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BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK
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MUTED METALLICS COLLECTION
A DREAMY PLAY ON PASTELS A trio of luminous shades from Paul Mitchell® The Demi featuring Lavender, Rose Gold and Silver offer stylists enchanting hair colour options for their guests. These new diffused shades can be used individually for an all-over trending tone or applied with multiple shades side by side for seamless creative colour.
100% Vegan Offers trend-led and wearable colour for salon guests with tonality lasting up to 4-6 weeks No ammonia, demi permanent gloss that conditions and adds shine while it colours.
• AFFORDABLE LUXURY • CRUELTY FREE • PROFESSIONAL ONLY Find us on
and
at Paul Mitchell UK
Available exclusively from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011
DEFYDAMAGE Start-to-finish damage prevention. For stunning results you have to see to believe: • 80% less breakage* • 5X stronger hair* • Increased & more even lift** • Evens porosity for better color deposit
Henkel Nederland B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond The Netherlands
LEFT
• Maintains over 90% of color vibrancy***
- Spray-on bond protection & color perfection no measuring, no mixing
see it. feel it. believe it. #hairfeels
www.joico-defydamage.com
To find out more, call 0845 0712326 or visit www.joico-defydamage.com. * Against combing breakage on damaged hair during heat styling; when using Defy Damage Shampoo and ProSeries 2vs.a non-conditioning shampoo **When lightening ***After 10 shampoos; when using Defy Damage Shampoo and ProSeries 2
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Editor’s letter
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JOIN US!
LAST CHANCE TO ENTER! WE’RE ALL GUILTY of getting VERY eager about Christmas The 2019 Most Wanted and and the rush of clients into the salon, but are we thinking and The It List Awards are open planning with the same excitement for summer? Because when you for entry, including TWO think about it, there’s usually plenty of social events that will necessitate NEW CATEGORIES. fresh colour or a banging blow-dry, and all that fun in the pool or the sea on Most Wanted closes 13 holiday along with the searing sun can mean wrecked hair, in desperate need of May and The It List 20 serious treatments. So many opportunities, and over at least a three-month season, May – stake your claim too. How are you going to get bums on seats? We have some sterling suggestions on a trophy now! See from the software experts on how you can link stylists to clients. Are your team pages 29-33 for more skilled on summer-centred services? Check out our summer school for brilliant information. Next up is balayage, braiding, up-dos, cutting skills, extensions and more. Do you have those The Coterie: In Session – irresistible little minis ready for your clients’ carry-ons? Or the sun-shielding with session stylist saviours they’ll need in bulk? Well, peek at our prescription of new and iconic Jody Taylor and expert summer wonders to rack up your retail and service bills. Phew, it’s hot stuff, barber Liam Campbell – from page 86! But before you start all this, make sure you have your Most taking place in London on Wanted and The It List Award entries all sorted – it’s your last chance! 20 May, see pages 36-37. Get them finished and safely posted off and then treat yourself to Finally, SAVE THE DATE! On an ice cream... 3 November we’re bringing Salon Smart to Dublin for the day! For event news and tickets, visit Amanda Nottage creativeheadmag.com/events Editor
amanda@alfol.co.uk
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creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
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May WHAT’S INSIDE £4.50 MAY 2019
In print•online•everywhere! everywhere!
MAY 2019 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
Tell me everything Your salon, your story. How will you share it?
ON THE COVER
86
SUMMER SPECIAL
Get your salon ready for summer with our guide to the best software, education and products
FASHION
102
Anti creative director Nick Irwin shows some attitude with Rankin
96
Hair by Anthony Mascolo and Kieron Fowles at Regis using TIGI Copyright Styling. Colour by Christel Lundqvist using TIGI Copyright©olour. Styling by Jiv D. Make-up by Katie Moore. Photography by Alex Barron-Hough.
EUGENE SOULEIMAN
The Most Wanted Hair Icon shares exclusive work with Creative HEAD
EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
DEPUTY EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
ART DIRECTOR
DIGITAL ASSISTANT
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
DIGITAL DESIGNER
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA NICK JABBAL EVA VESTMANN
ADAM WOOD
ANNA SAMSON KELSEY DRING
DAVID HAMMOND JENNY BROOKS
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
ALISON ROWLEY
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creativeheadmagofficial
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
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www.organiccoloursystems.com
To find out how to become an Organic Colour Systems stockist contact:
e healthierhair@organiccoloursystems.com | t 01590 646462
Hair: Organic Colour Systems Salon Mentors; Michel Koller, Stefanie Kaufman, Tracey Burnap Make-up: Tara Sanger Photography: Magdalena Bieth Creative Direction: Karine Jackson
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
BUSINESS RATES PILE ON PRESSURE ALMOST 42 PER CENT of salons have seen business rates increase since they were revalued – these were the findings of an NHF/ NBF survey as the organisation pushes for permanent and long-term business rate reliefs for small firms to allow them to plan. About two-thirds of hair and beauty salons and barber shops are not required to pay business rates because they qualify for small business rates relief. But with changes in valuations occurring every three years, reliefs are often short-term. This means that no salon can currently rely on remaining exempt. Common frustrations mentioned in the survey included the difficulty of using the Check, Challenge, Appeal system – 28 per cent of salons reported that they had tried to challenge their business rates and found the system so difficult to use that it put them off altogether – and being penalised for opening a second salon by immediately losing all business rate reliefs. Improving premises also led to issues, ranging from a complete refurbishment through to more minor changes such as adding air conditioning. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF/NBF, said: “We used the findings to respond to a Treasury Committee review of business rates, where we called for permanent reliefs with greater consistency between local authorities about how reliefs are implemented.”
IT’S YOUR LAST CHANCE! MOST WANTED ENTRIES CLOSE ON 13 MAY, AND THE IT LIST CLOSES ON 20 MAY. DOWNLOAD ENTRY FORMS AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED AND
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST
Tracey-Devine Smith and Colour Rebels hit the stage ASP AFFINAGE SALON Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith and the first generation of ASP Colour Rebels unveiled a colourful show at Germany’s Top Hair event in Düsseldorf. Rainbow colour featuring perfectly placed shine lines, eclectic styling and colourful floral accents were blended together for a unique and contemporary collection with echoes of Frida Kahlo. Tracey was assisted onstage by all of the ASP first generation Colour Rebels – Georgia Bell, Aimee Goodwin, Victoria Lee, Nicki Mehta, Terri Nadin, Abbie Salmon and Adam Thomas – along with UK and Ireland education manager Sara Solomon-Jones and UK ambassador Chris Munt. Tracey said: “We have spent months planning and prepping for this collection. I am so proud of what we have achieved.”
Anne Veck has teamed up with Dirty French Girl, her daughter’s jewellery business, to create eclectic hairdresser accessories including a magnetic bangle for pins and a ring to help with sectioning. dirtyfrenchgirl.com
2019
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#CHedit MY month
AHEAD What May has in store for...
JIMMY BEECH STAFFORD HAIR
Meet the L’Oréal Professionnel Innovation Team L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL HAS revealed its latest Colour Specialist Innovation Team at the Colour Specialist graduation ceremony. The new members are (above from left): Shanalise Coope (Friends Hair Company, Sutton-in-Ashfield), Elizabeth O’Brien (Toni&Guy, Stockton Heath), Amelia Hall (Frances Marshall, Sunderland, seated), Paige Hawkins (Rush Hair, Horsham), Jenn Linton (Linton & Mac, Aberdeen), Natalia Ager (Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester), Chloe Maher (Oxygen Hair Design, Beaconsfield, seated), Charlotte Roberts (Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port), Mark Sherwood (Zeba Hairdressing, Dublin) and Lizzy Ellwood (The Brooks_Hairatelier, Essex).
85%
of consumers like to shop in-store – that’s according to research from Marketingsignals.com. Yet a record net 2,481 stores disappeared from the UK’s top 500 high streets in 2018, according to a new survey by PwC, compiled by the Local Data Company. This marks the largest full-year net decline, as increasing costs of occupancy, shifts to online and subdued consumer spending take their toll.
KH HAIR APPLAUDS TALENT KH Hair has named its Arnold, Notts branch its the 2019 Salon of the Year at the KH Hair Awards at the Derby Roundhouse. More than 300 staff alongside VIP guests attended the annual event, which recognises success across the 21 East Midlands salon group. The KH Hair Creative Team kicked off the night with a presentation and won the Directors’ Award, while the Ilkeston salon won Image of the Year, presented by Wella Professionals technical director, Robert Eaton. More than £5,000 was also raised for charity partner, Childline.
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I’m staying on Irish soil as I have my first graduate stylist doing her final exams in Belfast, as well as a full column in the salon. As a member of the NEXXT Generation team I will also be delivering a range of education for ALFAPARF Milano both in ACCADEMIA and salons.
JANE ATTEW AND LIZ BAILY PRUNERS
We’re focusing on pricing and apprenticeships by working closely with Ken West, director of 3•6•5 Education, to give our team a living wage. This means we are making sure our pricing is right – are we charging enough, taking into account recent pension and wage increases?
BYRON SCOOPS PEOPLE PRIZE
MOVERS AND SHAKERS
BYRON HAIRDRESSING IN Kirkcaldy has been awarded Excellence in People Development at the Fife Business Awards. Having already won the Excellence in Customer Care award in 2017, salon director Ronnie Marshall, salon coordinator Jill Graham and salon designer Megan Paterson set their sights on this category as a way to help them detail their in-house training and development plan. The awards were created by the Fife Chamber of Commerce to showcase regional business excellence.
… while founder of Joe and Co, Joe Mills, has teamed up with Primark to launch barber shops under the brand MILLS, starting at Primark’s Birmingham flagship store.
Most Wanted 2018 Male Grooming Specialist Jody Taylor is the new creative director of The Lounge Soho and Joe and Co…
Jamie Stevens has been appointed European creative director for Hot Tools Professional.
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Meet the latest addition to American Crew’s styling family, Matte Clay, with workable medium hold and a silky matte finish.
The iconic ghd IV styler has a new look for the new season. The limited edition earth gold is resplendent in shimmering metallic – complete with matching plates!
RRP £109
If clients love a surf spray but hate crunchy residue, then take a look at the Tea Tree Wave Refresher Spray – it’s perfect for sprucing up second-day hair.
01924 423400
RRP FROM £7.90 0845 6590012
ghdhair.com
salon-success.co.uk
RRP £15.20
020 7391 7440 americancrew.com
Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
On your marks! Indola is unveiling XpressColor to speed up your shading services with a ‘three-times faster’ guarantee – 14 shades with a processing time of just 10 minutes? We like those numbers…
IN-SALON SERVICE 01442 278000 indola.co.uk
Scalp facials are officially a thing! Caring for scalps – which age and mature just like the rest of your skin – can have a dramatic impact on the quality and appearance of hair. Thank heavens for Goldwell’s new Kerasilk Revitalize range. With three collections, all containing a shampoo and a specialised serum designed to treat individual scalp issues, your clients can take healthy, swooshworthy hair home with them and continue the scalp love.
Fresh from DESIGN.ME comes the Puff.ME Light Volume Kit – brilliant for extra oomph on special occasions as the weather gets warmer.
PRICE £21.99 0330 1231907 salon-services.com
RRP FROM £17 0330 1239530 goldwell.co.uk
To celebrate Aveda’s new partnership with Charity: water, clients can buy this limited edition Shampure hand and body wash in a mega 500ml bottle – one bottle gives one person clean water.
To mark the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death, ALFAPARF Milano has unveiled six new luxuriously pigmented shades in its Evolution of the Color line. Our eye is on Blonde with a Complex Dazzle...
Festival season is coming… so get prepped with the Color Intensity LoveFest collection from JOICO, with citrus shades Limelight and Aqua Flow, as adored by Instagram favourite Larisa Love!
0800 0512979
RRP £30
IN-SALON SERVICE +353 45 856490
IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 0712326
aveda.co.uk
alfaparfmilano.com
joicoeurope.com
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OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Authenticity is a word that gets bandied around a lot at the moment, but one range looking to move beyond mere buzzwords is new tbh – true beautiful honest colour from Schwarzkopf Professional. For beautifully real, soft shades with subtle iridescent undertones across cool, warm and neutral colour palettes, this full colour collection is all about a subtle shift to reveal the real you. Create personalised tones with the Tone Softener, ideal for colour-refreshing and glossing services. With a straightforward ingredients list including grape seed oil for natural shine, as well as delicate, powdery tones that can be mixed and matched, clients can rest easy knowing that their colour will enhance their look rather than overwhelm it.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 526741 schwarzkopfpro.com
IT’S ALL ABOUT... BRILLIANT BLONDES With up to nine levels of lift in next to no time, L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 is a pre-lightener with real punch.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 0304034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Maintain lightened hair with Unite’s Blonda Fix Pro, the in-salon treatment that deeply repairs and tones, while Blonda Fix will help clients keep it cool at home, too.
IN-SALON SERVICE; BLONDA FIX RRP £24.95 0845 6590012 salon-success.co.uk
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POPPY DEVINE-SMITH AGE: 25 SALON: ZOOLOGY, LONDON
WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? It wasn’t until I had qualified as a lawyer that I realised I wanted to be a hairdresser! I found law just didn’t stimulate me – I knew I couldn’t do anything other than hair. My mother, Tracey DevineSmith, had salons so I would come home from school and go straight there. I was raised in this industry so it feels like home. WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? I’m just back from Abu Dhabi helping ASP Affinage Salon Professional launch its colour and styling ranges in the UAE. I actually got to work with my mum, who is its global ambassador, so it was amazing to share such a passion with her and prep models together. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I’d love to open a boutique salon of my own, somewhere near the Peak District. Once I do take that initial step and open my own salon, I’d like to start entering awards and win some trophies! WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? To work at Paris Fashion Week as a session stylist. I also really enjoy working with ASP, so in another couple of years I’d love to be accepted on to the brand’s Colour Rebels art team.
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#CHedit
Inside story
International inspiration
PONY STUDIOS
OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA
Over on the US West Coast, Corinna Hernandez has opened Pony Studios, which incorporates a stunning salon alongside the Pony Education centre and a creative collaboration space. In the salon, clients can book in with Corinna herself or choose from a curated roster of independent hair talent for cut, colour, styling and even wig-making services. She’s got the backing of industry legend and Bumble & bumble founder, Michael Gordon, who saw her potential when she was part of the core Bumble & bumble team in New York. Michael is one of a number of top names who will be on hand to offer education there. And she’s keen to be an active part of the community, with Pony Studios donating 10 per cent of its profits each month to non-profits such as Planned Parenthood Northern California and ACLU, as well as hosting community events.
HOT BUYS SUPER DELUXE
now open
Shampoo unit Luxury from Salon Ambience is available in two- and three-seat sofa versions, can be customised from a choice of 50 colours, and can be upgraded with the new shiatsu massage system. From £1,199 (until 31 August, usually £1,499)
07554 990965
ALICE + THE HARE, CHEPSTOW
salonambience.com
SEE MORE from Salon Ambience in your free brochure, with this issue of Creative HEAD! CREATIVE HEAD
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A new studio in the south-west stocked with TIGI, its Lewis Carroll vibe will have clients grinning like Cheshire cats.
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15/04/2019 14:51
THE BUSINESS EDIT
AMANDA BUCKINGHAM PAPER NOT FOIL
WHY PAPER AND NOT FOIL? Paper Not Foil is an ecofriendly alternative to traditional foil. It’s the first environmentally-friendly alternative to traditional meche or foil, it degrades without any toxic waste and is made using 96 per cent less energy than foil. It’s completely recyclable, can be reused and is loved by salons all over the world who want to take an ecological approach to their business. It’s made from ground-down industrial waste from the construction industry, which is recycled and turned into paper.
CAN COLOURISTS USE THIS IN THE SAME WAY? Yes! Its chalk-like texture means it grips well to the hair, and unlike foil you don’t need to fold the edges over into parcels, saving you time applying colour. Simply place onto the hair, apply colour and fold together. It can be cut to size and, just like foil, gentle heat can be used.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS TO SALONS? As Paper Not Foil can be washed (by hand or machine), dried and reused two or three times, this makes it a truly economical option both financially and environmentally. Many salons don’t realise that unless foil has been rinsed after use and is completely free from colour, it can’t be recycled. Paper Not Foil is simply placed in recycling or landfill to degrade naturally.
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HOW A SABBATICAL CAN IMPROVE YOUR STAFF LOYALTY THE LOSS OF a valued team member is a situation that every salon owner worries about, but to a degree it is unavoidable. However, some salons are reshaping their policies and allowing staff to leave for a while and then come back to their old job. These business owners and managers have found that offering sabbaticals and career breaks not only grows their staff’s loyalty, it expands their creative horizons and benefits business. At Salon Smart, owner of The Boutique Atelier, Richard Phillipart, revealed that one of the secrets to his strong team is allowing some staff time away from the salon, every year (see box below). Dawn Lawrence, managing director of Q Hair and Beauty in Chichester and Midhurst, has allowed a staff member time out from their hairdressing career. Senior stylist Amy Burgess requested a six-month sabbatical to travel around Asia and was promised her job back when she returned. “Amy is well-established and a talented stylist and I’m glad to see she is set on achieving her own personal goals without it affecting her career,” says Dawn. “I believe good salons should encourage their team members to broaden their horizons, gain a wealth of life experience and be able to come
back and pick up where they left off.” In fact, Dawn believes that the time Amy spends away from the salon may be beneficial to the whole salon. “She is devoted to forging a career in the hairdressing industry and travelling will be an invaluable experience. She will come back inspired, which in turn will benefit our business.” Sarah Black, colour expert at Linton & Mac in Aberdeen, has a monthly pop-up residency at The Social London, where she works with Ky Wilson. “We wanted to back Sarah, to keep her challenged creatively and hoped that supporting her on a partial move to London would negate the risk of her making a full time move,” explains Jenn Linton, co-owner of Linton & Mac. “We like to support our team in any way that we can when it comes to them achieving their goals and ambitions. We take it on a case-by-case basis and this hopefully gives them the creative scope to grow within our brand.” Not only that, by allowing Sarah to work in London, Linton & Mac is also increasing its profile in the capital. “We also took it as an opportunity to extend our brand – The Social gives us the perfect opportunity to have a Linton & Mac presence in London,” says Jenn.
RICHARD PHILLIPART
DIREC T FRO M
THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER
My experience is that when staff are about 25 years old, there is a high dropout rate. They might have been working since they were 16. So, in my salon we offer a career break programme. We encourage team members to take a step back and try something else for a while – this builds loyalty. The programme is for all staff whatever their age; one stylist at a time can take four to six weeks out with their job guaranteed when they come back. I would definitely recommend this as the team member develops as a person and grows their confidence and communication skills. They gain a sense of curiosity and become more committed to the salon brand, which stops them from becoming jaded.
CREATIVE HEAD
18/04/2019 12:47
#BusinessEdit
KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE?
LIFE LESSONS
LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION FROM DIRECT
What are the main Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) that every salon should be looking at with ever-growing gaps between appointment frequency?
MARK CASWELL, UMBERTO GIANNINI
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
Mark asked this question at Salon Smart and, in turn, I asked salon owners to share with me which KPIs they measure regularly in their business. These are the numbers that indicate how well your business and individual team members are performing. Below are some of the suggestions from the workshops and an average number that the delegates suggested would be a good goal to aim for. Utilisation: 80 per cent Rebooking: 70 per cent Retail sales: 15 per cent New client retention: 70 per cent Average bill: 10 per cent higher than cut and finish price As I said these were the suggestions from the delegates in the room and not mine, but what I did discover was that many salons are not looking at their numbers on a regular basis and some were not even aware of what numbers they should be looking at. All of the above are good numbers to monitor and should all be looked at from two points of view. First, the numbers of your
salon overall; and second, the numbers of each of your team individually. For example, your overall salon rebooking number could be 70 per cent but this could come from an average of three of your team achieving 90 per cent and three of your team achieving 50 per cent. Your challenge is to find out how some stylists achieve a higher rebooking rate and then coach the lower performing team to help them to grow theirs. Average income per client is a classic. Some stylists constantly upgrade and achieve an average income per client that is way higher than their cut and finish price. Others undercharge, offer discounts or spend their time offering low ticket services which eat away at their average income per client figure. When I first joined 3•6•5 as a member more than 25 years ago, I learned two things that I’ve never forgotten: ‘success leaves clues’ and ‘successful people do the things that non-successful people can’t or won’t do’. Anyone that is achieving more than someone else is always doing something differently. As a salon owner it is your responsibility to grow the results of each and every member of your team. But first you need to monitor and analyse your results to understand what you need to work on. This is why knowing and understanding the KPIs of both your salon and your team is vital.
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email KenW@365Hair.com or tweet @creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD
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KEITH HARRIS Be honest and believe yourself – but try not to fool yourself either. Professionally speaking, you need to be your own biggest critic. If you produce a piece of work and you know that it’s not good enough, that means exactly what it says; so just throw it away. It’s hard to start again but it’s the only approach and attitude that allows you to grow your ability.
Fear is a big part of the creative process. ‘Worry’ or ‘concern’ might be better words, but whenever I go into the studio, on stage or in a pressured situation I always feel a bit scared. If ever nerves don’t appear (which is rare) then I don’t feel ‘switched on’ and I don’t feel at my best. Adrenaline occurs for a reason.
Realise perfection does not exist… but the pursuit of it is the reason for waking up every day. Having worked with Vidal Sassoon, Trevor Sorbie, Robert Lobetta and Aldo Coppola, their collective senses of excellence and levels of self-expectation taught me to push myself to my limits and to expect much more from myself. 25
18/04/2019 12:46
#BusinessEdit
BE VIGILANT OF INVOICE FRAUD SALONS AND BARBER shops must be wary to avoid paying the price of invoice fraud, the NHF/NBF has warned. Invoice fraud is when criminals pretend to be a supplier that a salon normally uses. The fraudster persuades the business to change the genuine supplier’s bank account details so when invoices are paid the money goes straight into the criminal’s account. “Small businesses such as salons and barber shops are at high risk of being targeted by invoice fraudsters,” said NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “If anyone contacts you to change bank details, always be suspicious and do an independent check with the supplier. And when paying new suppliers for the first time, transfer a small amount of money first and check that it arrives.”
GDPR – ONE YEAR ON
IT HAS BEEN 12 months since GDPR legislation came into force and required salons and barber shops to comply with tough new data protection laws when handling staff and client information. A survey carried out by TrustArc found that GDPR is in fact having a positive effect on businesses. The NHF/NBF received hundreds of calls about GDPR from anxious members, who were unsure about the new rules and what they needed to do, but the survey “bears out our initial reaction to GDPR”, said NHF/NBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard. She explained: “We knew that GDPR would involve time and effort to put in place, but we also advised our members that it would be a positive way to demonstrate that they run a business that respects privacy and inspires trust.” To find out more about GDPR, visit nhf.info/gdpr
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HIGHLIGHT MENTAL HEALTH AT WORK THIS MONTH MENTAL HEALTH PROBLEMS are the leading cause of sickness absence in the UK, says the Mental Health Foundation, which is hosting Mental Health Awareness Week from Monday 13 May to Sunday 19 May. NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall, said: “This is a great reminder for employers to keep an eye on their staff and to look out for signs that they may be suffering from stress or anxiety.” The law says you have a legal duty to protect your salon employees from stress at work, explained Hilary. “Signs of stress can include performing less well, taking more sick leave, being tired or irritable, or being overly self-critical. “If you’re concerned, arrange a confidential meeting with your employee and ask if there is anything you can do to support them. Consider practical offers of help such as flexible working or some time off.” Find out more at nhf.info/stressed-employee. NHF/NBF Members have access to a free HR legal helpline which can help with stress-related risk assessments, go to nhf.info/legal-advice
Celebrating the very best in the business HAVE YOU GOT star quality? If so, make sure you enter the NHF/NBF’s Business Awards to compete against the best in the hairdressing, barbering and beauty industry. The awards are free to enter and open to both NHF/NBF Members and nonmembers. There are a total of 12 categories, with four new categories added for 2019: Best Independent Beauty Salon, Best Social Media, Best Salon Design and Outstanding Contribution to the Hair or Beauty Industry. Finalists and guests will be invited to a glittering awards evening at the prestigious St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London on 17 November. The NHF/NBF Photographic Image of the Year winner will also be announced (entries open 4 June 2019: nhf.info/photographic). The Business Awards 2019 are open for entries on 7 May 2019 and the closing date is 26 July 2019. Finalists will be announced on 15 August 2019. Find out more at nhf.info/businessawards
CREATIVE HEAD
15/04/2019 14:55
#BusinessEdit
BUSINESS BUILDER
All prices listed are exclusive of VAT
Salons looking to offer their customers the best of the best in styling and haircare need look no further than the Lômé Paris styling range – now available exclusively from Salon Services. Contact your local store or check online for availability so you don’t miss out on getting your hands on these great products!
H TEAC ME! With summer just around the corner, it’s important that salons think about those allimportant add-on services, such as waxing, as a way to boost sales. Thankfully, there are loads of great courses to help you refresh your skills for the summer, such as Sally Salon Services’ Warm Waxing (£100 exc. VAT) or Intimate Waxing (£110 exc. VAT) courses.
THE SERVICE STATION In association with
Innovative launches, expert advice and business boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!
ON RIGHT NOW This month Sally Salon Services customers – both online and in-store – will receive a free suitcase and tote bag when they spend £120, or two free suitcases and tote bags when they spend £200, just in time for summer. Terms and conditions apply; contact Salon Services for more information.
WELL-GROOMED BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT
Never underestimate the importance of a comfortable and practical styling chair. We particularly love the classic Salon Services Rachel Styling Chair (£179 exc. VAT), which has a timeless look. The top features of this great chair include hydraulic height adjustment, chrome armrests and a lockable chrome base.
ASK ME ANYTHING THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE EVERY BRANCH OF SALON SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!
Jo Martin
marketing director at Sally Europe Q: How can I prepare my business for wedding season this summer? A: Wedding hair and beauty is big business. Think about offering free initial consultations for brides-to-be where they can discuss their ideas with you and try a practise run of their dream hairstyle before their big day. Also, make sure you’re up-to-date with the latest bridal styles by investing in some training, like Training Solutions’ Essential Bride, Classical Bridal & Event Hair course (£95 exc. VAT). Finally, don’t forget to showcase your bridal hair looks on your social channels. After all, a great picture can paint a thousand words and is a brilliant way to get your salon noticed by brides to be!
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM CREATIVE HEAD
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15/04/2019 14:57
THE BIG IDEA
STYLE MY HAIR PRO FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL HAVING SEEN BREAKOUT success with the Style My Hair app for clients at home, the upgraded Style My Hair Pro app from L’Oréal Professionnel is here to update your colour services, giving you a glimpse of what the salon of the future looks like! There’s been a lot of talk about the rise in colour services, as well as clients’ search for more personalised, experiential salon experiences. Style My Hair Pro combines the two in an engaging interactive consultation that gets colourists and customers excited about the potential of a colour change. From colour moodboards and trend looks to live digital colour transformations, you can nail the colour consultation every time. Just picture it – having the power to show your client what she will look like with the colour service you’re recommending, right there and then. No surprises, no mis-matched expectations, and think how powerful that will be to clients who haven’t yet even tried professional colour. Released in partnership with leading beauty Augmented Reality company Modiface, the new 3D technology is available now on the App Store and Google Play Store.
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15/04/2019 14:59
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NEW! ALL CATEGORIES NOW OPEN TO THE UK AND IRELAND CATEGORY SPONSOR
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For the best on-trend image of the year
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Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved a success for the salon business or the industry at large
SESSION STYLIST
For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion (by nomination only)
HAIR ICON
For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2019 (by nomination only)
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16/04/2019 10:40
CREATIVE HEAD VIDEO MADE BY US… ESPECIALLY FOR YOU
PRESS PLAY> TOP HAIR ARTISTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
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Most Wanted & The It List awards… Featured Artist Live… Salon Smart… The Coterie: In Session…
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16/04/2019 16:55
Stay true to yourself Forget homogenised beauty and following the herd. Embrace subtlety and authenticity with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new colour range, tbh – true beautiful honest
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Did you know that Millennials and Generation Z now represent more than half of all salon customers? Gen Z alone will reportedly make up 40 per cent of all consumers by 2020, according to research by the Fast Company. Millennials are known to be more socially conscious, individually minded and they crave experiences, while Generation Z adds a focus on end results. What underpins both of these demographics is the search for authenticity – casting aside superficial trends that don’t speak to them, favouring brands that keep it simple or experts who are genuine. It’s a mindset, not a fad. This drive for self-expression and authenticity resonates with modern salons; they need something real they can share with their clients. That’s why Schwarzkopf Professional has created a fresh, innovative colour line – to help colourists to create true art and delight their clients with an authentically beautiful result…
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Meet tbh – true beautiful honest
True illumination of the natural highs and lows in hair, shimmering powdery tones and an honest approach to the ingredients and formulations LET’S SEE WHAT’S INSIDE…
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Warm NATURAL HAIR CONTAINS a multitude of beautiful tones, highs and lows: tbh – true beautiful honest shades respect and reflect this, giving natural highs and lows with 100 per cent multidimensional colour. Think subtle, think soft, think real. With gentle shimmering and powdery tones split into three shade groups – natural, cool and warm – you can customise and craft uniquely beautiful, authenticlooking shades by mixing and matching. Taking pride in its formulas, the tbh – true beautiful honest brand philosophy is built upon the transparency of its ingredients. Formulations combine up to 92 per cent of naturallyderived ingredients, complemented by the additional performance drivers required to guarantee reliable colour results.
Create luxurious primary reflections muted by gentle rose undertones SKP Gatefold V2.indd 4
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Natural
Mimic natural hues with a soft touch of chocolate and clean neutrals SKP Gatefold V2.indd 5
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Cool
Weave in modern, smoky hues to counteract and perfect the underlying warmth SKP Gatefold V2.indd 6
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Keep it simple *Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction. Always perform an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before each colouration. If you have ever experienced a reaction after colouring the hair, you must not colour. Strictly follow the safety instructions and consult schwarzkopfpro.com
tbh – true beautiful honest doesn’t overcomplicate its ingredients
Grape seed oil Leaves hair with a natural shine
50 per cent less ammonia Helps preserve the hair’s integrity
HEP
This special ingredient features in all of the carefully crafted colours, designed for soft and powdery nuances, as it’s known to help reduce the risk of developing allergies*
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Maximise your creative colour opportunities with the tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener. Mix with any shade and IGORA VIBRANCE Activator 1.9% /t (1:1:1) to perform a colour refreshing, glossing service
16/04/2019 10:04
Colour should always be true, beautiful, honest
“The new tbh – true beautiful honest range is so refreshing. What’s fantastic about the range is that it not only creates a natural look, it also includes key natural ingredients in its formulas – argan oil, macadamia oil and shea butter. The 26 colours allow us to offer a completely bespoke service option with its huge colour palette. I love how it works with the hair’s natural highs and lows, yet thanks to the natural oils it creates this amazing shine!” TIM SCOTT WRIGHT
Tim Scott Wright at The Hair Surgery Schwarzkopf Professional UK and tbh – true beautiful honest ambassador
Discover your authentic colour self with tbh – true beautiful colour from Schwarzkopf Professional. For more information, call +44 (0)800 526741 or visit schwarzkopfpro.com
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16/04/2019 16:59
IN SESSION
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MONDAY 20 MAY 2019 7PM UNTIL 10PM, LONDON WORKING LIVE ON SET AND IN CONVERSATION WITH LEE KYNASTON, STYLE & GROOMING JOURNALIST FOR THE TELEGRAPH & MR PORTER
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CREATIVE HEAD
15/04/2019 15:06
#SalonSmart19
A VERY IMPORTANT MEETING (AND MIXING)
Meet & Mix allows delegates to mingle over a glass of fizz with some of the most brilliant business minds, which this year included Richard Phillipart, Sarah Black, Jak Bakewell, Scott McKay, Sara Holmes, Stephen Nurse, Darren Fowler, Sophia Hilton and Ken West. The perfect way to build an appetite...
SEE LOADS MORE pictures from Salon Smart – check out our Facebook albums at facebook.com/creativeheadmag
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Luke Hersheson and his Hershesons team (Jordan Garrett, Nick Latham and Sean Nother) let loose with some fast fashion looks – literally. Creating four cuts in mere minutes, the show culminated in a selfie shoot with the models while the team tweaked and styled as they would on set. Luke then sat down with Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock for a whistle-stop tour through his career. Seeking out models’ agents and test photographers, Luke’s big session break came in the form of a Missoni shoot with Gisele in the early noughties. It might all seem super glamorous, but Luke has balanced that life with business challenges, too. When the congestion charge knocked out more than a third of the business the salon (started by his father Daniel) had almost overnight, the Hershesons had the idea of introducing a blow-dry bar into Topshop, one of the first successful examples of ‘menutising’ hair. More recently, rent rises cued a move to a new, larger venue. “The space gave us an opportunity to change, challenge and question everything,” he said. And watch out for its Harvey Nichols revamp later this year…
Daniel Hersheson, Catherine Handcock and Luke Hersheson
E K U L D N A COOL H
Nicola Clarke
CL ARKE SPARK Spanning movie sets, celebrity colour and session work, Nicola Clarke’s interview with Creative HEAD editor, Amanda Nottage, illustrated a remarkable career so far. Having pestered Sam McKnight to become his assistant, she started making some serious friends – Kate Moss remains a client after 20 years – along with a host of stars including Gwyneth Paltrow, Cate Blanchett and Kate Winslet. Now heading up her own salon, Nicola Clarke at John Frieda, she’s changed her approach to team work. “Ask for help,” she advised, adding: “Coming into this I realised you can’t do everything.” 40
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STRIKE A POSE
From left: Carolyn Sweeney, Mark Maciver, Hilary Hall, Andrew Collinge and Paul Percival
Upbeat, dance-infused, a spectrum of shades – what better way to celebrate 20 years of Paul Mitchell professional hair colour? The presentation by James Davies and Luke Dawson-Browne from the Paul Mitchell Artistic Team had us voguing from our seats!
AGE T I R E H R U O F PART O
Bree Davie, Bex Ohta and Tom Connell
Trevor Sorbie led the Team Talk session this year, as general manager Bree Davie, communications manager Bex Ohta and art director Tom Connell shared how they approached running a heritage brand and keeping it fresh. “We avoid a hierarchy in the art team,” Tom said. “It gives younger team members possibility and spreads the attitude of ‘I’m only one idea away from being onstage!’” Bree underlined the importance of assessment and Bex urged delegates to really know your client.
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From left: Darren Fowler, Sophia Hilton, Sara Holmes, Stephen Nurse and Ken West
IT’S GOOD TO TALK A big part of the Salon Smart experience is the opportunity to hear big debates. 3•6•5 Education’s Ken West, Stuart Holmes Salon’s Sara Holmes, Fowler35’s Darren Fowler and Daniel Galvin’s Stephen Nurse took on time, alongside Sophia Hilton of Not Another Salon. On the subject of apprentices, the NHF/NBF’s Hilary Hall and Andrew Collinge got stuck into the issues of funding, while Percy & Reed’s Paul Percival, Creations’ Carolyn Sweeney and SliderCuts’ Mark Maciver shared the approaches they take. 41
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IT’S GOOD TO
BE GREEN COMMIT TO A GREENER FUTURE WITH THE TEA TREE RANGE FROM JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS
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NOTHING GIVES A JOLT to your senses like invigorating tea tree extract. Aside from its fresh and energising scent, tea tree essential oil has potent antiseptic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Turning every cleansing experience into a spa-like treat, the Tea Tree range has been turning heads since 2001. There’s a lot more to being green than just the colour of the bottles, something that John Paul Mitchell Systems has been proudly championing for decades.
From being the first professional beauty company to be against animal testing from the beginning to its ongoing involvement in animal rights, environmental, humanitarian and health organisations, the brand is serious about its commitments to the environment and its inhabitants. Alongside Reforest’Action, Tea Tree has committed to planting 750,000 trees by the end of 2019 and helping to green the globe through reforestation. For Tea Tree, it’s all about doing more.
MEET THE TEA TREE HEROES TEA TREE SPECIAL COLOR
The latest collection within the Tea Tree family, Special Color combines scalp-refreshing tea tree oil and peppermint with a touch of rooibos tea botanicals, to help prevent colour fading and leave hair beautifully soft and vibrant.
TEA TREE SPECIAL
The brand’s best-selling Shampoo is joined by an equally fresh Conditioner and stylers such as Firm Hold Gel and Shaping Cream for a refreshing styling experience. Tea tree and peppermint leave mind and scalp renewed.
TEA TREE SCALP CARE
This preventative regime to promote thicker-looking hair contains a hard-working blend of clover flower, turmeric, ginseng, pea peptides and kakadu plum for a healthy scalp and fuller, lusciouslooking hair.
NEW!
TEA TREE LEMON SAGE
A sniff of this zesty, citrus fragrance will put your clients in a great mood. Natural extracts of uplifting lemon, soothing sage and tingly tea tree will kick-start their day and leave their hair feeling full of body.
TEA TREE LAVENDER MINT
Lavender essential oil takes the wheel for this moisturising collection. Naturally effective at soothing frazzled nerves, the range features calming lavender, mint and tea tree to soothe mind and spirit.
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SUBLIME
SERENITY BREATHE LIFE BACK INTO HAIR WITH TEA TREE WAVE REFRESHER SPRAY, THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE TEA TREE COLLECTION
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THE TEA TREE brand has grown from one humble idea to create a spa-like shower experience. With natural botanical extracts and essential oils replacing unwanted chemicals and ‘filler’ ingredients, Tea Tree continues to show there is another way. Fast forward to 2019 and meet the newest addition to the award-winning range: Tea Tree Wave Refresher Spray. Revive limp strands with a few spritzes of this lightweight styling spray for beachy, windswept texture without any crunch or grittiness. Ingredients include tea tree and peppermint oil to quickly refresh hair’s
natural texture and bring second-day waves back to life. Thanks to moisture-giving coconut extract you can enjoy a tropical twist on the tea tree fragrance while giving hair a hydrating spritz. As with all John Paul Mitchell System products, the Wave Refresher Spray has never been tested on animals, as well as being vegan, gluten-free and colour safe – making it the perfect styling partner for new Tea Tree Special Color Shampoo and Conditioner. From shampooing to styling, Tea Tree is dedicated to offering a spa-like feel with zero fuss. Get ready to tingle…
SOAK UP THE SENSORY EXPERIENCE OF TEA TREE COLLECTION. FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK #PMTINGLE
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F O S R STA E G A T S E H T ED
MINDS SHAR S S E IN S U B NT G ACT – BRILLIA O N S A W IS OSE WATCHIN TH H T L L A H IT TORIES W FABULOUS S
“We asked ourselves three questions: When do clients want appointments? Do we offer them? And are staff available when clients want them?” RICHARD PHILLIPART
Salon-to-session star and owner of The Boutique Atelier, Richard Phillipart is target driven and takes pride in maximising the potential of his space. Looking at what clients needed, he decided to keep the salon open until 8pm five days a week, and to open Sundays. And to tackle high dropout rates among younger staff, he offers a career break of four to six weeks a year for staff to take time to pursue other goals. 46
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“Once I saw social media wasn’t just for selfies and food I decided I was going to use it as a way to start afresh”
“We felt we had a lot to offer and wanted to be somewhere where we were excited to go to work, not excited to leave”
Award-winning colour expert Sarah was feeling jaded: “At my old salon the worst thing possible happened – I got bored.” She took time out to travel and came back with a new sense of purpose. Moving to Linton & Mac reignited her passion, led her to winning the 2017 L’Oréal Colour Trophy and introduced her to Ky Wilson, with whom she now collaborates. “Working together can save you from creative stagnation and give you confidence,” she said.
Despite a successful career, Angelo Vallillo was feeling uninspired. “I looked at my salon and thought: ‘Does it scream about how amazing our industry is?’ Dale Herne was feeling similarly restless, and so the friends came together to launch DNA Artspace in Nottingham. “It doesn’t feel like a salon,” says Angelo, “We’re getting people interested in hair just by walking past.” Dale added: “If it’s not done with love, it’s not done the DNA way.”
SARAH BLACK
DALE HERNE AND ANGELO VALLILLO
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ARE YOU EXPERIENCED?
Using the popular egg meme from Instagram, Monica Teodoro, general manager of L’Oréal Professionnel UK and Ireland, proved being a disruptor and creating a point of difference doesn’t have to cost the earth. “People want to be surprised, delighted, entertained,” she insisted. A focus on experience was reiterated by Salon Success managing director Simon Tickler, who pointed at how the one-onone human connection hairdressers have with consumers is incredibly special (and increasingly rare) and encouraged salons to create in-depth content that illustrates their point of difference.
“Branding is everything. It’s the logo that communicates who we are” BRUCE MASEFIELD
After 29 years at Vidal Sassoon, you’d think Bruce Masefield would have been in the perfect position to open his own salon. As it turned out, Bruce admitted that the leap had been genuinely frightening: “I can cut and style hair, but I’m not a great businessman.” His salon, Bruce Masefield Hair, is a little slice of Mayfair in Edinburgh, a “Parisian apartment but with a touch of Scandi”. Bruce found himself focusing on the branding: “I’m owning the B,” he joked about the simple yet effective brands he’s created, including B:Spoke, B:Rand and B:Connected. “It’s our little hook.” CREATIVE HEAD
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“There are always going to be difficulties, but you have to use them to bounce back” DYLAN AND CHARLOTTE BRADSHAW
The couple’s Dublin salon is a shining example of great hairdressing in Ireland, but after being diagnosed with heart disease, Dylan decided to cut back his hours and had to manage client expectations. “It felt like a break-up,” he admitted. Holding onto staff, especially in an era of increasing chair rentals, has proven difficult, too. “When one person decided to go down that route, it started a pattern of staff members demanding more,” said Charlotte. However, there are benefits: “When someone poisonous leaves, quieter people can excel.”
ON THE SOAPBOX
In a new Soapbox session, brand artist Jo Robertson raged against discounting websites and cut-price, underwhelming experiences that can turn you off a brand for life. “When did we decide that doing things cheaper, with worse quality, was what we wanted?” she asked.
“The response has been beyond belief, and all our reviews point to our one-onone experience” JAK BAKEWELL AND SCOTT MCKAY
In the market town of Louth you’ll find Re-Invention House, where clients need to be invited to be seen by owner Jak and co-style director, Scott, each receiving a bespoke price list and instructions on how to find them. This format lives up to its ‘reinvention’ title – Jak closed his previous salon because he wanted a better work/life balance, and to eliminate the stresses and red tape of managing a team. Now they work with clients when they want to be seen and offer an exclusive experience in luxe surroundings. 47
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LET’S P O H S K R WO THAT! THE RE VIEW
Hosted by Simon Shaw and Ken Picton, this session questioned the habits we learn in the salon. “Everybody’s behaviour is governed by two things – personality and environment. So if you want to modify the behaviour of your team in the salon, which is easier to change?” asked Simon. Time and staffing issues were key to many attendees, and Ken revealed how he had solved these problems. “I asked my clients if they would like more of my time, so I increased my prices by 25 per cent and gave it to them,” he revealed. “It worked so well I made it the same for all of my staff.”
KEN’S CLINIC Need high res
It was go-time in Ken West’s Clinic, with delegates quickly challenged on their knowledge and perception of KPIs and business standard expectations. He took the example of setting expectations, both minimum and aspirational, from a staff member’s first day, which gradually scale up. “Act on fact,” he insisted. “If you can’t see growth, stop kidding yourself. People need to understand that there are consequences, but equally you shouldn’t hold people back when they’ve done everything you’ve asked of them.” 48
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MAKE A MEAL OF IT
Brains sated with wisdom but bellies in need of a top-up meant it was time for the Working Lunch, 90 minutes of networking with leading brands and a side order of tasty food. L’Oréal Professionnel introduced its revamped TECNI.ART range and unveiled its innovative Style My Hair Pro app. Drawing a crowd was Salon Success’ GIF booth alongside its showcase of professional brands including Unite, Kenra, #MYDENTITY, Celeb Luxury, Paul Mitchell and Olaplex, while 3•6•5 Education was also on hand with some business coaching advice. There was a prize draw to win front-of-house training and an iPad, worth more than £1,000 at Mutu’s stand – which went to Liz Bailey from Pruners in Haywards Heath! The brand demonstrated Salon Call Manager, which ensures you never miss a client call again. INNOluxe V2 and Platinum was introduced to delegates alongside a sneak-peek at a new in-salon treatment, while Mindbody discussed salon management and how its software handles day-to-day tasks to free-up the team. At Kent Salon’s stand, delegates dabbled with 19 brush designs crafted especially for professionals, while Prostyles demonstrated how to blend colours and perfect nearly invisible bonds with its extensions. Building reputation with verified reviews was the order of the day on the Treatwell stand, and Salon-iQ showcased features including multi-site and group technology, mobile and online booking and automated marketing. The NHF/NBF provided priceless advice covering employment, tax support, VAT and payroll – identifying why joining their organisation can help your business. CREATIVE HEAD
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MAKE YOUR MARK
WANT TO THRIVE, NOT JUST SURVIVE? THEN FIND YOUR USP AND SHOUT ABOUT IT – WITH HELP FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL 50
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SEEING IS BELIEVING
Engaging with clients seamlessly across multiple channels is essential, with different age groups and interests gravitating towards different platforms. You have your client in your chair – a perfect opportunity to use technology to bring you closer together to get a fantastic result. After the success of its consumer-oriented app Style My Hair, L’Oréal Professionnel revealed its new Style My Hair Pro technology at Salon Smart.
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
LONG LIVE THE HIGH STREET! When Monica Teodoro, general manager of L’Oréal Professionnel in the UK and Ireland, took to the stage at Salon Smart, she did so with one topic on her mind: disruptors. Between shifting consumer behaviour, changes in working patterns and technological leaps, the way we live and shop now can’t be compared with that of a decade ago, so how do salons and brands find any footing? Everything seems extreme; either everyone is busy, busy, busy, searching for services and brands that can fit into their jam-packed schedules, or they are revelling in JOMO – Joy Of Missing Out. A lifestyle of staying home, ordering in and relying on technology to communicate rather than face-to-face, has been one of the biggest changes to the high street. Tech has only revved up consumers’ desire to have things how they want, when they want. Yet until computers can start reaching through a screen to cut hair, salons are safe… in theory. And the way salons stay safe is by choosing to swim against the tide that’s washing outdated retailers away. It’s about finding your niche, your edge, your personal appeal. It’s about creating a seamless process which can shift and flex to fit around your customers’ new lives. More than anything, it’s about reminding clients of that human connection and community.
The original Style My Hair was named by Sunday Times Style as one of 2019’s must-have apps. Building on the original makeover concept, the Pro version is designed to deliver a three-in-one colour consultation to completely transform your salon consultation experience. Clients can experience a live colour transformation before their very eyes – the clever AR technology allows them to swipe and experiment with different looks during the consultation. Featuring everything from ombré and balayage to the latest trending colours, you can decide together on the best look before any colour is even applied. Whether your client is colour-shy or a regular experimenter, make sure every visit to your salon is experiential and personalised and see clients flocking back to try new looks over and over again. Salon Smart guests got a sneak-peek at the various tools that Style My Hair Pro offers – from colour mood boards to build with your client to live colour 3D makeovers and digital swatches, the app helps to create a seamless flow of creative ideas for every client. Say hello to the future of consultations, and better colour business.
AN YOU C OAD L DOWN Y HAIR M STYLEOR APPLE PRO FANDROID AND OW N
“Consumer behaviour, working patterns and technology are disrupting the salon model. We need to speak above the noise of the internet” MONICA TEODORO
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CHANGE IS GOOD
REVAMPED AND READY FOR ACTION, TECNI.ART FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL BRINGS A LITTLE BACKSTAGE BRILLIANCE TO HELP YOU GROW YOUR STYLING AND RETAIL BUSINESS
TECNI.ART, an adored staple at fashion week shows across the globe, is back and better than ever. The iconic styling range has had a makeover and the inspiration for the new packaging has been taken from the covers of fashion editorial magazines. The range has been carefully curated by a host of top session stylists, including L’Oréal Professionnel editorial ambassador Adam Reed, and is now a core selection of 27 products. Old favourites including Pli have had an upgrade, and sit alongside future styling heroes such as Ring Light – ideal for the selfie-snappers! Stylists can be sure they have the perfect toolkit to create their vision. At Salon Smart guests experimented with the new collection as well as discussing the business ER AT REGIST CCESS. potential such a brand can bring to a salon. Not only that, they also heard LA LOREA K FROM about the latest services and techniques available on L’Oréal Professionnel’s � M CO U TOP OR dedicated education site, Access. There you can find a host of educational and A DESK NCE YOUR inspirational videos, featuring top stylists such as Adam Reed, to inspire you P. O LAPTO TRATION IS with ideas and tips to try in the salon. IS CAN EG
R OU LETE Y COMP SS THE SITE ACCE NYWHERE! A FROM
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IT’S A BACKSTAGE LEGEND… BUT EVEN LEGENDS NEED A LITTLE MAKEOVER “If I could only have one product, it would be TECNI.ART Pli. I can pretty much get everything I need from it and I use it for absolutely everything! It’s the fundamental prepping product – without Pli it’s like having a house with no floor!” ADAM REED, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDITORIAL AMBASSADOR
To find out more, speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager, call 0800 0304034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk @lorealpro #lorealprouk #TECNIARTIST #stylemyhairpro
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READ the full session reports, view the galleries and watch the video, all at creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
THE ( ) SMARTEST PEOPLE IN THE ROOM THE TOP SELFIE
EDUCATION, INSPIRATION, FUN AND FABULOUS PEOPLE � SALON SMART IS ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT FOR BOOSTING YOUR SELF�IE��CONFIDENCE! THANKS FOR SHARING…
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Congratulations to Tracey Parry and Amy Thompson of Mamouchi in Truro, 2019 Salon Smart Selfie winners! Enjoy spending your Liberty coins…
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T I T A E W S T ’ N O D LEAVE ENTITLEMENT MAKE YOU AL NU AN S’ YEE PLO EM UR YO T OU ING DOES WORK AX WITH THE HELP OF THE NHF/NBF… REL ? ALL IT M FRO AY AW GET TO TE DESPERA
HOLIDAYS. The word might conjure images of sandy beaches and tropical locales, or it might make numbers and dates start swirling in your head. It’s just one of many legal requirements you have to juggle on top of everything else – made all the more difficult once you start trying to calculate allocations of annual leave for various staff members.
DO THE MATHS
Knowing the basic formula for calculating staff annual leave is essential for salon owners and managers. “The law says all of your employees must have paid annual leave,” says NHF/NBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “Most employees are entitled to a minimum of 5.6 weeks’ holiday.” To work out how many days this is, simply multiply five days by 5.6 weeks (5 x 5.6), which works out as 28 days’ annual leave. These 28 days can include bank holidays, but this does not mean your employees are entitled to take paid leave on bank holidays. Even new starters are entitled to annual leave from their very first day at work, although you can opt to allow new employees to accrue their leave entitlement one month at a time. And remember, NHF/NBF members benefit from a free 24/7 HR helpline
for in-depth information and advice about their employees’ annual leave rights. Find out more at nhf.info/legal-advice.
HOW THE NHF/NBF CAN HELP YOU
WHAT ABOUT PART-TIME STAFF?
Not yet a member? “When working out annual leave entitlement For less than 75p a day, for your part-time staff, simply use the same benefits include: type of calculation as the one used for full• Valuable discounts time employees,” advises Tina. “For example, on industry-specific for someone who works three days a week, insurance: nhf.info/ multiply three days by 5.6 weeks, which insurance works out as 16.8 days paid leave. You must round this up to the nearest half day, which • Free health & safety would make 17 days. You cannot round down advice annual leave entitlement.” • Free 24/7 legal and It’s also important to remember that staff commercial helpline – members earn annual leave while they’re including chair renting: on maternity leave – but they cannot take nhf.info/legal-advice annual leave while also on maternity leave as they are two separate entitlements. • Membership Similarly, you cannot label staff JOIN helpline for sick days as annual leave, THE NHF/NBF everyday nor can you ask employees to BEFORE THE END business advice take annual leave on days OF MAY 2019 AND • Free they are not contracted to QUOTE CHM25 TO employment work, or on days your salon is GET £25 OFF YOUR and chair normally closed. Keep on top MEMBERSHIP renting contracts of everything and your horror of holidays will soon disappear…
FEE!
For more information, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info CREATIVE HEAD
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model behaviour To celebrate talent across the Aveda Salon Network, the brand is running a series of #AvedaArtist competitions, where stylists enter creative images on social media for the chance to win a shoot mentored by one of the Aveda Artistic Team. Winners Hayley Lewis from Fresh Lifestyle Aveda Islington and Fitzrovia; Zach Spivey from Amanda Marsden Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa in Exeter and Jeppe Gregersen from Gary Ingham Salons in Hampstead were invited to travel back to the ’90s and channel their inner Cindy/Naomi/Linda under the creative direction of Luke Castillo on a Super Model-inspired shoot. Here’s what they created… PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL SIMS
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL GO ONLINE to see all competition entries – search #avedaartist on Instagram, or visit @AvedaUK
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“I did a lot of research to get a feel for the shapes and the hair from the decade. Straight, volume, double texture – I had ideas across them all so I was prepared for whichever model I was assigned when I got here” JEPPE GREGERSEN, GARY INGHAM SALONS (@JP_GREGERSEN, @GARYINGHAMSALONS) 58
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HAYLEY LEWIS, FRESH LIFESTYLE AVEDA ISLINGTON AND FITZROVIA (@HAYSLEWIS, @FRESHLIFESTYLEAVEDA)
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HAIR Hayley Lewis, Fresh Lifestyle Aveda Islington and Fitzrovia; Zach Spivey, Amanda Marsden Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa; and Jeppe Gregersen, Gary Ingham Salons. AVEDA CREATIVE DIRECTION Luke Castillo, Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa (@lukeccastillo, @avedacoventgarden). PHOTOGRAPHY Daniel Sims (@simsnotebook). MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio (@lucy.broggio_mua). MODELS Katarina Nemcova (@katarinanemcova), Hebe Witte (@hebe_witte) and Barbara Majder (@barbara_majder)
“I was inspired by the Chanel catwalk from S/S95 – big, bouncy hair. I’ve really, really enjoyed the #AvedaArtist competition, especially as the ’90s theme is definitely me!”
“I was drawn to grungier, shorter hair looks from British Super Models like Kate Moss. I wanted to do something edgy. I used Aveda Pure Abundance Style prep on dry hair and Damage Remedy Daily Hair Repair so that we started with some shine” ZACH SPIVEY, AMANDA MARSDEN AVEDA LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA (@ZACHSPIVEYHAIR, @AVEDAEXETER) CREATIVE HEAD
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SHAPE OF YOU GET CREATIVE WITH HAIRDREAMS’ ROOT SHADOWS STYLES TO FLATTER EVERY FACE
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WE’VE ALL MARVELLED at those make-up transformations that turn drab into fab. Emulate the make-up wizardry of contouring for an always on-trend and flattering colour effect with Hairdreams’ Root Shadows collection. Subtly enhance your client’s features by taking the face-framing concept of contouring and applying it to these real hair extensions with refined shade blends. From root stretches and smudging to balayage and ombré, keeping natural colour at the roots is now seen as anything but lazy. Forget root touch-ups and those awkward growingout stages, natural multi-tonal hair colour is not only in, it’s flattering. As any good balayage artist knows, the placement of light and shadow can have a huge effect on the face. This colour technique has been seen on countless celebrities, including the Kardashians, Jennifer Lopez and Chrissy Teigen, creating shadows and highlight dimensions that can help to slim the face, draw attention to the jawline and accentuate their best features. The Hairdreams Root Shadows collection does exactly this and is ideal for clients who love the balayage or ombré look but can’t (or won’t) make the commitment to permanent colour. With four different lengths between 30 and 60 cm and a multitude of two-tone colour combinations with varying root lengths to choose from, you can create a bespoke and flattering style for every client. Even your fitting techniques can be fine-tuned to your clients’ needs: the range is available in Laserbeamer NANO extensions, which last up to six months; semi-permanent Quikkies tape-ins; and the MicroLines Hair system for thinning hair. Style, colour, placement – everything can be customised. Create a personalised look for your client every time, in next to no time. You can demonstrate and work with them to choose a style that is flattering and fashion-forward before you even fit the extensions. If balayage applications are holding up your staff for hours on end, this quick and easy colour option could see your staff freed up, and your revenue shooting up.
• Four lengths available (30 to 60 cm) ose from • A wide variety of two-tone styles to cho s and • Available as Laserbeamer NANO, Quikkie MicroLines fittings
Experience a complimentary Hairdreams workshop to see the change for yourself. Call 07566 294857, +43 316 6057644, email crm@hairdreams.com or visit hairdreams.com hairdreams_uk CREATIVE HEAD
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deep Roots run
Scalp care is the fastest growing segment of the hair market. Encourage new growth in hair and business with Kerasilk Revitalize from Goldwell CLIENTS WORRY ABOUT the damage to the ends of their hair, but rarely stop to think about tackling the (literal) root of the problem. Did you know that the scalp ages six timesfaster than facial skin? Clients have no problem preserving their skin with complex facial treatments, multi-masking and double cleansing, shouldn’t the same attention be paid to the scalp? Kerasilk is set to expand its luxurious, treatment-focused haircare range with the launch of Kerasilk Revitalize. The rejuvenating scalpcare collection is inspired by skincare ingredients and formulations, designed to counteract and protect against the key signs of scalp ageing. So what causes it? The main culprits are factors such as UV radiation,
pollution, chemical stress, as well as extreme heat and cold. Checking the weather forecast simply isn’t doing the trick – nor is continuing to ignore the effects it’s having on the scalp and roots. Because the skin of the scalp is different to facial skin, it shows its damage and ageing in different ways. Scalp ageing becomes visible through weak and thinning hair, dehydration and imbalance. Clients treat their skin with facials to roll back the clock; they exfoliate, cleanse and prime – and now with Kerasilk from Goldwell they can apply that approach to their hair. Just as with facials, the journey begins with professional treatment services before continuing with personalised homecare recommendations.
The journey to a healthier scalp and happier hair Consultation
Cleansing
Exfoliation
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Rebalancing
Treatment and massage
At-home aftercare
Meet the perfect line-up of scalp soothing solutions… 63
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Back to life
With a tailored routine inspired by luxury skincare, clients can enjoy more youthful-looking hair – all thanks to Kerasilk Revitalize from Goldwell FROM 10-STEP Korean beauty routines to the classic cleanse-tone-moisturise trio, the obsession that consumers have with skincare illustrates a huge interest in protecting and rejuvenating our appearance. How we look is a reflection of how we feel. All of your clients want wonderfully healthylooking hair, too, but are they dedicating the same time to their hair routines? What if you could give them the perfect foundation for glossy, healthy-looking hair to boost their look and confidence? Well, one special ingredient can do a lot of the hard work for you.
All of Kerasilk’s Revitalize products are enriched with Ectoin, a powerful protector that shields the scalp from oxidative stress. It’s 100 per cent natural, and derived from micro-organisms that exist in some of the most extreme environments on the planet, functioning as a sort of cocoon to protect cells against the impact of environmental conditions and support the scalp’s self-regeneration process. If you have clients with concerns, you can get to the root of every issue with three specialised formulas for each of the main signs of scalp ageing:
Weak & thinning hair
Dehydration
Imbalance
Nourishing Collection
Detoxifying Collection
Redensifying Collection
For dry, sensitive scalps, using hydrating grape seed extract
For unbalanced scalps, with purifying red algae
Strengthens roots with ginseng extract
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lize experience Four steps for a spa-like Revitausin g jojoba-derived exfoliants ting Pre-Wash,
1) EXFOLIATE: opt for the Exfolia
g shampoo for effective cleansin micro foam lp Foundation with activating 3) REBALANCE: Rebalancing Sca scalp moisturises and rebalances the inst future damage serum to treat and protect aga eted targ a ose cho T: EN ATM 4) TRE
2) CLEANSE: choose a targeted
Revitalise your salon experience with scalp care facials from Kerasilk Revitalize. For more information call 0330 123 9530 or visit goldwell.co.uk 65
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Give me
more
EXTENSIONS CAN NOT ONLY BOOST LACKLUSTRE HAIR, THEY CAN ALSO BUILD UP YOUR BUSINESS, CAUSE A STORM ON SOCIAL MEDIA AND RAISE YOUR PROFILE. ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF THEM? HAIR EXTENSIONS HAVE exploded in popularity in recent years. Thanks to new innovations in design, better training and a better understanding of what they can achieve, they have shaken off their WAGs-only reputation and cemented themselves as an important service in any modern salon. According to research by Arizton, this trend is set to continue, with the worldwide wig and hair extension market on track to exceed $10 billion (£764 million) by 2023. If ever there was a time to get on board, it’s now. However, an increase in demand for extensions has led to more salons than ever trying to entice both new and existing customers into enhancing their hair – so how can you ensure your salon stands out for all the right reasons? In Yorkshire, Russell Eaton Salons has upped its investment in extensions to keep up with their popularity, enabling the team to expand what’s on offer to clients. “We use Great Lengths to create a thicker, fuller look as
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frequently as we use them to increase the length of our clients’ hair,” explains creative director Robert Eaton. “We use them in partial techniques a lot as well, especially for clients who become frustrated with areas of their hair that do not grow in the same density as others.” Make a conscious effort to market your extensions services as a specialist service rather than just an add-on to help position your salon as the best place around. Malcolm Murphy Hair in Leicester, winner of Most Wanted Best Local Salon 2018 and a Great Lengths Platinum salon, has become known in the East Midlands as a premium destination for hair extensions, which in turn has helped to increase the salon’s revenue. “It has given us a niche that sets us apart from other salons,” explain co-owners Malcolm Murphy and Joe Causier. “We’ve won many awards for extensions expertise over the years, and we can reflect that expertise in the prices we charge, so hair extensions are very lucrative
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Great Lengths
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
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Prostyles
for us.” In fact, Malcolm is the current holder of the Great Lengths Trophy for Extension Excellence, while Martha Garry from the salon was crowned the Best Newcomer at the 2018 Great Lengths Awards. Extensions can be a highly-priced service, so communication is key to helping your clients understand the benefits of the investment. “Converting your clients into devoted extensions lovers is done by finding out which type will suit them best,” says Jay Birmingham, celebrity stylist and owner of Jay Birmingham Hairdressing. “The consultation process can make or break an appointment. As stylists we need to educate the client on what will work for them and be as realistic as possible in order to manage expectations and ensure they will be happy.” Ensure that your clients are aware that extensions are now more realistic than ever, and they won’t look fake, feel heavy or limit the styles they can wear. “We love Prostyles ProHair because the individual extensions move and flow so well with natural hair,” says Megan Hall of Vanity Rocks in Liverpool. “ProHair fibre hair is light so clients don’t feel their hair is weighed down but they still get the desired length and thickness. The result lasts for a long time and it’s
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Lox of Love
brilliant for hair-up styles as the bonds are easily hidden.” There’s also a valuable marketing opportunity in applying the service in the main salon area, says Robert Eaton. “It creates a lot of interest in the service as it’s very visual – the transformations are amazing,” he explains. It’s important to invest in the right training and tools – although this outset can be expensive, it will set a high standard that will encourage more clients to spend money on their extensions. Joe Causier explains: “Initially just Malcolm and I went on a Great Lengths course, but since then we have sent six more team members to be trained. The demand for our hair extensions has become so high that we had to train more staff so we can keep up!” Clients love to feel they’re being looked after by the very best person for the job, so once you’ve trained up a stylist as an extensions expert, make sure that you shout about their expertise. “I find that extensions are often very thoroughly researched by the client before they take the dive and make a booking,” says Ricky Waters of SALON64. “Clients feel it can be costly, so many believe it should be performed by a specialist. From a business point of view, introducing clients to the extensions specialist creates a level of excitement. In addition, it allows clients to build a bond with certain individuals – sometimes a limited choice is better than too much.” Robert Eaton suggests letting your clients see what’s on offer before they take the plunge. “We use books where we present the transformations we have created, and we often use moodboards and mannequin heads that show how extensions are applied within hair,” he says. “We’ve also worked with Great Lengths to create short videos where influencers share their experiences and what they love about their extensions.” Joe Causier suggests making contact with the press in your local area to drum up interest. “In the past we have run competitions with local magazines to win a free set of hair extensions, and the winner’s transformation was then documented in the next issue,” he explains. And nothing beats seeing the real deal in person, he adds: “Many of our team wear extensions every day so clients always ask how they get their hair looking so good. This opens the conversation on hair extensions and shows clients how they could look on their hair.” Communication is key in helping your clients understand how extensions could change their hair and their self-confidence. “Extensions open up so many possibilities to clients – a lot of people are unhappy with their hair, if it’s too fine, they can’t grow it, or they’re struggling with hair loss,” says Josh Smith, hair extensions specialist at Rush Moorgate. “They aren’t aware of how much extensions have moved on. The Hairdreams
Extensions… BUILT MY BUSINESS!
“I started in 2012 as a freelance extensions expert to build my technique and reputation, before opening my salon doors in 2014 and reaching £80,000 turnover in my first year. Now in my fifth year I have a team of six staff and am on target to achieve £400,000. “Extensions have been stigmatised due to poorquality training on the part of the stylist and a lack of client knowledge, to name a few reasons. But I’m seeing them become more mainstream and there are many good technicians out there. “Becoming a Remi Cachet Super Stylist has definitely boosted demand for my services – it’s like a guarantee for my clients to be able to recommend me to their friends!” VICTORIA CARTWRIGHT, LOX OF LOVE, NEWTON AYCLIFFE, DURHAM 69
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EXTENSIONS. ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR HAIR...
? s s e n i s bu INSTANT VOLUME QUICK FITMENT USED BY PROFESSIONALS LOVED BY CLIENTS
EXPERT INSIGHT In the time it takes to cut and blow dry you can earn 200% more using ready to fit hair extensions Lara Regan Prostyles Academy Training Manager
PROHAIR FIBRE LOOSE FUSION PRE-BONDED I-TIPS TAPE WEFTS WEFTS
Visit prostyles.com or call on freephone 0800 389 7105 to speak to a hair extension specialist
THE PROCHOICE FOR PROFESSIONALS
Richy Richy 72
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Microline system has changed the game and using it to give someone their confidence back is so rewarding.” Indeed, seeing extensions first-hand can convince even the most sceptical clients. “Consider holding an ‘introduction to extensions’ party where you invite clients to witness a live fitting so they can see for themselves the effect that extensions can have,” suggest Hayley Jennings and Jessica Patrick, co-directors of Unlimited Hairloss Solutions in Huddersfield. “Invite them to try out clip-in extensions so that they can see how true-to-life it is. You could even include a ‘how-to’ lesson and a style service menu that includes styles solely created with clip-in extensions, so clients can see how versatile they are.” At Mayfair’s Four London, lots of its clients talk about what they don’t like about their hair and, according to stylist Carly Smith, nine times out of 10 it’s to do with their volume. “Everyone in the salon, from colourists to assistants, knows about extensions and can have a conversation about them,” she explains. Four London markets extensions as a bespoke service, mixing Richy extensions for a perfect colour match. “Richy tapes are great for clients who are worried about the condition of their hair, as there’s no breakage, damage or movement,” she adds. “And for clients who have finer hair, there are the Diamond Lite extensions, which are smaller and more subtle. From a business perspective, extensions can be a quick and easy service – by 10.30am I have often done three heads of extensions!”
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A TOUCH OF
Class 65 WALTON STREET, LONDON SW3 2HT Tel: 020 3092 3345 askrichy@richyhairuk.com
65 WALTON STREET, LONDON SW3 2HT
Extensions… ARE CHOSEN BY 80 PER CENT OF MY CLIENTS “We added hair extensions to our services back in 2013 and in the first year alone they became very popular – 80 per cent of our clients now have hair extensions. “In this industry you have to move with the times and engage with your clients to provide them with what they want. As my Great Lengths hair extensions work is now my most popular service, it was definitely the right decision for us. “We have found Great Lengths Tapes are brilliant for clients who lead a busy lifestyle, as they take very little time to apply; while pre-bonded hair extensions are popular with clients that like them to last that little bit longer.” JOANNE HALLAS, GLAM@HALLAS HAIR, BELPER, DERBY
Extensions… “Extensions are particularly impressive when adding body and thickness to hair and our social media posts showing before and after pictures have helped to create a buzz, gaining a great deal of interaction and encouraging bookings. We chose Prostyles as our extensions supplier as we were impressed with the quality of the hair itself, and also the high-quality training it provides. “Social media, in particular Instagram, enables us to connect with our clients daily. We regularly use social media to share the transformations that we create as it’s a great way of marketing new products, new looks and the latest hair extension trends. Time and time again we have clients ask for a particular look that they have seen us create.”
@handcohairsalon
GIVE US A BUZZ ON SOCIAL MEDIA
HANNAH HARRY, H&CO, TORQUAY
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All the added extras
OUR SELECTION OF SOME OF THE BEST EXTENSIONS AND THE AFTERCARE THAT WILL KEEP THEM LOOKING FANTASTIC…
Perfect for time-poor clients who still want to look great, Great Lengths Tapes last six to eight weeks and can be re-applied up to three times without using a machine.
The Tape Weft Academy Training Kit by Prostyles contains manuals, tools for extensions application and removal and a voucher for further study.
greatlengthshair.co.uk
prostyles.com
IN-SALON SERVICE
Long-lasting Richy Keratips are designed to blend in seamlessly, with gentle keratin micro tips protecting hair against potential damage during application or removal.
IN-SALON SERVICE
richyhairuk.com
SALON PRICE FROM £300 +VAT
Hairdreams Original Root Shadow extensions enable you to create balayage and ombré styles without damaging clients’ existing hair, and they have supersubtle bonds.
IN-SALON SERVICE
hairdreams.com
Great Lengths Individual Bonds last for about five months and are available in the full Great Lengths shade range to add colour, length and volume.
IN-SALON SERVICE
greatlengthshair.co.uk
Richy Stickees are perfect for adding volume and length in under 30 minutes. Ultralight and selfadhesive, they’re re-usable and last up to six months.
IN-SALON SERVICE richyhairuk.com
Anti Tap Water by Great Lengths adds moisture and contains biotin to rebalance for healthy hair during and after wearing extensions.
ProHair Daily Conditioning Spray by Prostyles is a lightweight formula that smooths cuticles and prevents split ends, and gently detangles hair.
The Stop & Grow Volume-Up Spray by Hairdreams is an amazing way to bulk up both extensions and real hair, for a super-sized look.
greatlengthshair.co.uk
prostyles.com
hairdreams.com
RRP £15.95
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RRP £14.99
RRP £22
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To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
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THE NEXT GENERATION
OF BLONDE FORGET WHAT YOU KNOW ABOUT TRANSITIONING CLIENTS TO BLONDE. LIFT COLOUR BY AN ASTONISHING NINE LEVELS WITH SPEED AND EASE, THANKS TO NEW BLOND STUDIO 9 LEVELS BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL CREATIVE HEAD
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THE HIGH LIFE
BLOND STUDIO 9 LEVELS FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL OFFERS UP TO NINE LEVELS OF LIFT WHILE CARING FOR YOUR BLONDE BY IMPROVING COSMETIC FEEL ON THE HAIR ARE YOU READY to live the high life? There’s no need to schedule multiple appointments over multiple days to help a brunette realise her blonde ambition anymore – free yourself and your client and create incredible blondes with an accelerated lift. The innovative powder formula of
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Blond Studio 9 Levels means clients who used to fear going blonder can rest easy. The secret to the increase in improved hair cosmetic qualities lies in the formula’s special oil-based developers that push the lightening power to the maximum, while maintaining optimal hair integrity.
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LET THERE BE LIGHT WITH SUCH VERSATILITY, THE BLOND STUDIO 9 LEVELS RANGE FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL IS HERE TO BRING A RAY OF LIGHT INTO YOUR COLOUR WORK DISCOVER JUST HOW FLEXIBLE L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 Levels is for yourself. With a versatile formula to suit every technique you can think of, Blond Studio 9 Levels is ready to do the heavy lifting for you.
Before
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It’s quick, effective and protects the integrity of the strands and has been designed to stay precisely where you place it. No drips, no mess, no fuss. Just quick saturation for a neutral, clean blonde result.
After
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FINISHING
TOUCH *Can be up to 20 minutes depending on the desired result
THE FRENCH GLOSS SERVICE USING DIA LIGHT IS THE PERFECT NEXT STEP FOR A BESPOKE BLONDE
WITH LIGHTENING UNDER control, turn your attention to toning for the most fashionforward results. The perfect partner to your new pre-lightened base, L’Oréal Professionnel has designed a new French Gloss service for that multi-dimensional, effortlessly chic finish. Powered by Dia Light, its unique acidic gel-cream formula creates optimal glossing. Neutralise, personalise and boost shine – clients can enjoy glass-like reflections from just a 10-minute application.*
ACIDIC TONING TECHNOLOGY
Dia Light’s unique pH formulation balances hair colour after pre-lightening services, encouraging optimal closing of the cuticle for beautiful shine and condition.
PERSONALISED FINISH
Neutralise the result and personalise the blonde, bring shine and take care of the hair with Dia Light. The acidic gel-cream formula gives the optimal glossy finish.
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“One of the best products in colour; really glossy, easy to use, true to tone” SIOBHAN JONES ROSE & WILD, LONDON
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r e m m su
e m i t r e summ ENSURE YOUR SALON IS BOOKED UP ALL SUMMER LONG CONNECTING CLIENTS. HOW? WITH HELP FROM A FEW DIGITAL FRIENDS…
RIGHT HERE, RIGHT NOW
NEVER MISS OUT ON SECURING AN APPOINTMENT WITH SALON-IQ’S NEW BOOKING APP No salon can be open 24/7, it’s simply not possible. But with SaloniQ’s new Booking app designs, you can stop worrying about those calls and enquiries that come out of hours, whether that’s in the evenings or on the days when you are closed. Let Salon-iQ create a quick and simple interface for you, where clients can see which appointment slots are available and book right there and then... even if they’re looking at your salon at 2am! Gift card purchases can also be set up with a simple click, so clients can share the love. Not only that, clients can receive directions to your door, access your contact information and call your salon direct at the touch of a button. The power to supercharge your salon is in your hands. TALK TO SALON-IQ ABOUT CREATING A CUSTOM BOOKING APP TODAY, CONTACT INFO@SALONINTELLIGENCE.COM 86
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FOUR IN ONE
WHATSALON LAUNCHES IN THE UK TO SIMPLIFY AND AMPLIFY SALON BOOKING
WhatSalon uses cutting-edge tech wizardry to help generate more business for hair and beauty professionals and salons. This clever new app allows users to find and book a salon appointment in seconds. The whole process of booking in with their favourite stylist is made quick and easy, encouraging clients to keep coming back for more. There are four different features available: WhatSalon Connect, which integrates with your current salon software to drive new business; WhatSalon Grow, a free booking software system for salons that are still using pen and paper; WhatSalon Go for freelance beauty professionals; and finally WhatSalon Marketplace, to bring in new business to your salon. DISCOVER HOW WHATSALON COULD WORK FOR YOU, VISIT WHATSALON.COM OR CALL 01216 678004 CREATIVE HEAD
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CAN YOU FEEL IT? It’s coming… days are getting longer, the lashing rain is starting to subside, blonde bookings are on the rise. Yup, here comes summer! But do you put as much planning and effort into the summer season as you do for the Christmas push? Because when you think about all those potential events – proms! Weddings! Festivals! Holidays! – and all the extra care and attention hair needs for such occasions, the opportunities for those salons that are savvy enough to plan ahead are huge. At Linton & Mac, co-owners Jenn Linton and Jaye MacDonald fully utilise the Aberdeen salon’s client database by sending out weekly blogs to subscribers and emails. They explain: “We also outline availability for the coming week to ensure that any spaces are filled in plenty of time – we also do a daily availability post on our Instagram!” There’s an emphasis on team training days, where they close the salon floor and the whole team is involved, from assistants, front of house and senior stylists. Jenn also leads a bridal styling in-house training day. At Hair & Co in Newtownards, Co. Down, Lynsey Cleland is a big believer in soft braids for moveable texture when it comes
to upstyling for proms and weddings. She attends education from ALFAPARF Milano and ghd to ensure the salon is seen as a specialist. “We love the new trends we create, and train our salon staff weekly. Our clients come from miles around,” she says. So, our summer cocktail recommendation is this – get your system sorted so that you can fill up those appointment slots, communicating what services and expertise you have to both existing and potential guests. Ensure your team is upskilled to the max with education that prioritises those services that will be asked for time and again. From blonding boosts to perfect plaiting, bridal brilliance and extensions excellence, there’ll be a course (or a few) to hit your summer spot! And finally, those all-important consultations and customer experiences can lead to a red-hot retail season, as well as pushing backwash treatments and services off the charts as clients prepare or recover from whatever is in their summer diary. Make sure you have an irresistible array of treatments, suncare and travel-sized minis clearly visible (in the salon, in the window and on social media!) and prescribed to clients to help them have the best hair summer ever. Now, where’s my Aperol Spritz?
Book ’em up!
SUMMER WITH SOFTWARE FROM VERSUM
Is tech complicating your life when it should be making it easier? Between baffling booking systems and trying to track staff progress, it can all get a bit complicated. Versum’s easy-to-use salon software is designed to not only save you time (and headaches) but to also help increase revenue, attract new clients and ultimately grow your business. Versum’s integrated system allows you to curate detailed customer records and delivers an intuitive appointment book and communications. Calculate precise real-time statistics and reports alongside real-time online booking and efficient employee management trackers. Prune away the extra steps and procedures when tackling your daily tasks, and marvel at the growth it produces. PLANT THE SEEDS IN YOUR SALON, VISIT VERSUM.COM OR CALL 020 3393 7709 CREATIVE HEAD
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GO YOUR OWN WAY MAKE WAY FOR NEW GROWTH THIS
WHAT DID I MISS?
NEVER MISS A CLIENT CALL AGAIN WITH SALON CALL MANAGER FROM MUTU
Did you know that 68 per cent of new clients don’t call back if their first call isn’t answered? When you’re running a busy salon, it’s inevitable calls will slip through the net – make sure nothing gets past you again with Salon Call Manager from Mutu. Improve your customer service to win new clients and boost profits by ensuring you have a professional, friendly greeting available 24/7. You can even give the personal touch of an instant SMS letting them know you’ll call them back. With a full reporting service and centralised booking service available, Mutu helps you to stay in control of calls. Trusted by some of the biggest names in the industry including The Chapel, Nicky Clarke, Trevor Sorbie, Skyler London and Charlie Miller, your salon is in safe hands with Mutu. FOR YOUR FREE DEMO EMAIL INFO@MUTUUK.COM, VISIT MUTUUK.COM OR CALL 0333 3323999 87
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T R A T S P M U business Jyour AFTER ITS BEST-EVER SPRING, TREATWELL HAS HIT TWO MILLION MONTHLY BOOKINGS. A WHOPPING 67 PER CENT OF THOSE BOOKINGS ARE REPEAT VISITS – WHICH DON’T COST YOU A PENNY. IN SUCH A CROWDED MARKETPLACE, FIND OUT HOW TREATWELL AND ITS PARTNERS ARE GROWING AT SUCH A RATE...
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“We are thrilled to partner with Treatwell. It brings a wealth of expertise and experience in the digital arena, enabling us to attract a new audience to Sassoon. We are always looking at ways to introduce a new clientele and Treatwell is the perfect choice”
67t of
SUSIE MUTCH, CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER OF SASSOON
per cen Treatwell bookings Getting new clients in is one thing, but convincing are repeat them to return regularly is an altogether different bookings beast. Treatwell puts its partners front-and-centre on
WE ALL KNOW that being an incredible stylist doesn’t magically make you a business ace. It’s tricky, and there are so many factors that need keeping an eye on that it can be easy to get caught up in admin. As well as bringing salons new customers through its marketplace, Treatwell’s salon software Connect helps shoulder the administrative burden of running a business. It provides all partners with a free app and cloud-based software to manage everything in one place, on the go. The whole team can download the app and managers can customise app permissions. Salons can easily track how the business is MADELEINE RAYNEL, doing, too – with daily, weekly DIRECTOR OF TREATWELL and monthly reporting tools to make sure you’re on the up. The customer experience can be managed entirely through the app as well, from online booking and appointment reminders to personalised client notes and integrated payment processing, as well as those all-important rebooking reminders to help keep clients coming back. Treatwell spends more than anyone on getting new clients – and it pays off. Last year it reached more than 12 million people with outdoor advertising; 60 per cent of UK adults aged 16 to 34 saw its TV commercials, and the digital ads were seen a staggering 270 million times! With its Spring/Summer campaign already underway, Treatwell is there to drive clients through the salon doors.
social media, offers automated invitations to book and rebook, and even has a ready-made loyalty scheme called Beauty Pass, so that you can retain and reward your best clients. “We’re committed to doing everything we can to push that client to rebook with you because we know that’s going to help your business thrive,” explains Madeleine Raynel, director of Treatwell UK and Ireland. Clearly Treatwell is doing something right – 67 per cent of its bookings are repeat bookings, and what’s more, repeat bookings are commission-free for the salon. Reviews are something that are indisputably crucial to any UK AND IRELAND successful salon. Treatwell helps salons build and manage a world-class online reputation. It’s the biggest source of reviews in the industry because it incentivises each and every customer to leave a review after their appointment. Treatwell exists to help its partners grow online (which they do, by 44 per cent on average). It is the leading hair and beauty booking marketplace, and Treatwell’s salon software Connect makes the day-to-day a lot easier.
“It’s 2019 and your clients are online – in fact, in the UK we’re seeing that 75 per cent of salon bookings are made that way”
Partner with Treatwell and see your salon bookings grow 4 4
per cent on average
IF YOU WANT TO HEAR MORE ABOUT THIS WINNING COMBINATION, VISIT TREATWELL.CO.UK/WELCOME
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Allilon Academy
Summer school THE SUN IS SHINING ON OUR ROUND-UP OF COURSES SET TO UPSKILL STAFF READY FOR ALL THOSE MONEY-MAKING SUMMER SERVICES
ASP Affinage Salon Professional Colour Correction
Goldwell Balayage Ombre Fusion
24 June, Romsey Whatever your client wants to do to their shade this summer, this course will help to make colour correction simple. 01794 527111
13 June, London Want to perfect the art of balayage? This one-day seminar shows you quick and easy techniques to help you gain confidence in colouring. 020 3540 1200
ALFAPARF Milano Creative Upstyling
Great Lengths Foundation Training
Organic Colour Systems Blonde
Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Up Expert
Allilon Primary Shape Course
L’Oréal Professionnel Balayage & Freehand Colour Techniques
Redken Balayage and Beyond with Samantha Cusick
TIGI Essential Highlighting
milk_shake World of Updos
Revlon Professional Beyond Balayage with Mark Leeson
Wella Professionals Insta Waves & Braid
3 June, Belfast This course covers more in-depth techniques such as braids, soft bridal looks and structured red carpet up-styles. Perfect for the summer season! academy@xperthair.ie
1 to 4 July, London An introduction to the Allilon principles of haircutting, you’ll gain the confidence to understand when, why and how to make decisions. 020 3301 5451
ghd The Bridal Edit
23 May, Birmingham Forget stiff chignons – this is all about modern bridal hair, with three looks bringing your skills up-to-date. You’ll also learn photogenic finishes. seminars@ghdhair.com 90
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20-21 May, London This two-day certification explores pre-bonded and tape applications with practical sessions; removal, re-bonding and re-taping are all covered. 0113 216 3064
4 June, Leeds The freehand approach is more popular than ever, so master these techniques and deliver sun-kissed looks every time. lorealaccess.com/uk
Date on application Create the perfect foundation for hair-up and styling and get to know your kit and products in this hands-on workshop with educator Shelley Pengilly. 01392 365177
Paul Mitchell California Dreaming
3 June, Aylesbury Soak up the vibes from Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color’s home state with looks that pay homage to the diverse natural beauty of California. 0845 6590011
20 May, Lymington Help clients who prioritise sustainable and ecoalternatives to find the lighter side of life in this workshop. healthierhair@ organiccoloursystems.com
20 May, London Samantha shows how that Cali-kissed, biscuit blonde brilliance can be yours as she shares her tips and techniques. lorealaccess.com/uk
8 July, Leeds Learn easy sectioning patterns for the best results while mastering the best of colouring, with ambassador Mark Leeson. 020 7391 7440
Salon Services Sally Micro-Loop and Micro-Ring Hair Extensions 22 May, Wembley Create instant length, volume and fashion effects for proms, parties and weddings in this practical workshop. 0330 1231907
13 to 14 May, London From braid bars and festival hair menus to proms, weddings and parties, #DRESSITUP with Sara Barlow and make up-dos a staple in your salon. 01442 278000
Date on application Available regionally and as in-salon education, this course will help develop your understanding of lightening and highlighting techniques. 020 7228 5999
11 June, London Led by a guest artist, this day-long course will turn your styling skills up to the max, perfect for prom, party and wedding hair. 0845 601 8128 CREATIVE HEAD
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ALLILON UK: 4 DAY CUTTING COURSES Primary Shape Course 1st July & 4th November
Disconnection Course 20th May & 5th August
Primary Mechanics Course 10th June & 9th September Mention Creative HEAD when booking to receive a gift from us on the first day of the course.
Did you know, here at Allilon we offer a complete range of four day cut and colour courses in our London academy to suit all needs. To learn more SEARCH: ALLILON
Express Brightening by Nathan Walker for Trevor Sorbie
Travel agents WHETHER YOUR CLIENTS ARE FLYING FIRST CLASS TO TURKS AND CAICOS, JOINING A BRIDAL PARTY IN BARCELONA OR GLAMPING AT GLASTONBURY, WE HAVE A ROUNDUP OF THE SUMMER ESSENTIALS THAT YOU CAN RETAIL TO KEEP THEIR LOCKS LOOKING LUXE. DESTINATION: PERFECTION. NOW BOARDING...
The secret of Wella Professionals Invigo Sun range is its invigorating sunblend of pro-vitamin B5, orange blossom fragrance and vitamin E. The UV Hair Color Protection Spray is a must. RRP from £11.90 wella.com
With the milk_shake Sun & More collection, you’ll find the hair and body All Over Shampoo that’s perfect for post-pool/sea cleansing, intensive conditioner Beauty Mask to soothe and Incredible Milk Sun, a spray mask with 12 benefits. RRP from £14.19 milkshakehaircare.co.uk
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The relaunched BC Sun Protect range with UV filter protects the hair from sun damage, prevents discolouration and cleanses away sea salt. Perfect for globetrotters… RRP £18 schwarzkopfpro.com Sun can have a disastrous effect on hair colour unless shielded, so refresh with Revlon Professional Nutri Colour Crème, in travel friendly in 100ml sizes! RRP £11.95 revlonprofessional.com
The Serie Expert Solar Sublime range from L’Oréal Professionnel has had a fancy new makeover and is now packed with soothing aloe vera. The line-up includes a shampoo, masque and UV protection spray. RRP from £12.40 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk Revive Volumising Dry Shampoo by Organic Colour Systems will instantly freshen and lift, pair it with the 70ml bottles of Power Build Shampoo and Conditioner for an ideal capsule collection. RRP from £10.95 organiccoloursystems.com
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Express Brightening by Nathan Walker for Trevor Sorbie
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KeraStraight
Become your client’s hair hero this summer with the KeraStraight Ultimate treatment, ideal for preparation and repair. Help strengthen strands before they hit the beach or repair the post-holiday hair blues with this game-changing semi-permanent treatment. A unique combination of low pH proteins reinforces dry, damaged or weakened hair so clients can enjoy shiny, straighter and healthier hair no matter what their summer hair sins. Customise the treatment to suit every need – add Ultimate Booster for particularly curly, kinky or coily locks – then send happy guests on their way with homecare goodies to continue your heroic work. In-salon service/homecare RRP from £19 0330 0881174; kerastraight.com CREATIVE HEAD
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Say hello to Paul Mitchell’s Platinum Blonde Conditioner and Toning Spray, which join the existing Platinum Blonde Shampoo, packed with ultra-violet pigment to banish the brass. RRP from £16.50 salon-success.co.uk
“With clients looking for the perfect summer products, take full advantage of every opportunity to try and upsell products, treatments and packages. Social media is great for this”
KAREN THOMSON, OWNER OF KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA Joining Goldwell’s Curly Twist range this season is Salty Oil Surf Spray, perfect for big bouncy curls or soft and natural waves. It adds beautiful texture and body, but also defines and protects from frizz. RRP £15 goldwell.com
Kick-off your client’s summer with the Design.ME Travel The World kit with three travel-sized essentials that help reduce blow-drying time by 50 per cent, boost hair volume and strengthen locks. PRICE £9.99 (exc. VAT) salon-services.com
Encourage clients to get their kit together with the ASP Affinage Salon Professional Kitoko Holiday Hair set. It contains ASP Kitoko Oil Treatment Cleanser, frequent-use nourishing Balm and Sun-Defence UV Protect Spray, all with colour-safe formulas. Price £17.20 (exc. VAT) asphair.com Bed Head by TIGI takes summer very seriously. The Totally Beachin’ Cleansing Jelly Shampoo, Mellow After Sun Conditioner and Queen Beach Salt Infused Texture Spray are modern-day classics. RRP from £12.50 tigiprofessional.com
Thanks to a makeover of the Kérastase Soleil range, clients can choose from Bain Après Soleil: Hydrating After Sun Care Shampoo and Masque Après Soleil After Sun Recovery Mask, Huile Sirene: Bi-Phase Oil Mist and UV Sublime: Leave In Moisturizing Cream. RRP from £20.20 kerastase.co.uk
Get clients to weather-proof their hair with Redken’s updated Frizz Dismiss. The AntiStatic Oil Mist works brilliantly to tame flyaways while the Instant Deflate Oil-in-Serum helps to smooth puffiness and unwanted volume. RRP from £17.50 redken.co.uk
It’s mini-madness ahoy with JOICO – its ge is new Defy Damage ran es, siz vel tra in now available t for fec per is Life e nd and its Blo p to hel e som of d nee in guests when keep the brass at bay sun. the in e spending tim 35 £3. m fro P RR joicoeurope.com
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Suitable for all hair types and the ideal aftercare kit to fit into your client’s hand luggage when going away, this Great Lengths kit includes a Daily Moisture Shampoo, 60 Second Conditioner and an Instant Care Protector Spray – all in nifty 50ml bottles! RRP £14.95 greatlengthshair.co.uk
Aveda helps to deliver up to 16 hours of sun protection. The Hair and Body Cleanser is a multitasking marvel, while the After Sun Masque nourishes. Finish with the Protective Hair Veil for a water-resistant UV shield. RRP from £20 aveda.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
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INNOluxe
Let clients focus on living their best life without having to worry about their hair… with INNOluxe V2! This ground-breaking protein treatment rebuilds weak or over-processed strands. Depositing multiple layers of low-weight proteins helps to keep hair looking fabulous no matter what clients put it through. It’s the unique Aminobond Complex that gives INNOluxe V2 its nearmagical properties, and the brilliant thing is that it can be added on to almost any service you can think of! Bleaching? Defend from damage and leave hair looking better than it did before. Adding bright colour? A super-healthy base means hair holds colour for longer and, best of all, clients can instantly tell the difference. So they can now get on with enjoying summer, whether that’s at a festival or splashing in the sea. The smoothing Elixir, strengthening Balance Plus and other aftercare products will keep their tresses trouble-free. In-salon service/RRP from £21 0330 0882226; innoluxe.com CREATIVE HEAD
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E L P O E P R O F K “I DON T WOR ” L I A T Y N O P A T WHO WAN ii
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PHOTOGR APHY BY ADAM MARK
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YOU DON’T GET THE PERFECT BLOW-DRY OR HAIR-UP FROM EUGENE SOULEIMAN. YOU GET A WHOLE NEW WAY OF LOOKING AT BEAUTY, WITH HAIR THAT’S RAW, ORGANIC AND SUBVERSIVELY SENSUAL. CREATIVE HEAD SITS BACK AND ENJOYS THE RIDE SEVEN STYLES. Six hours. But who cares about the clock? When you’re watching Eugene Souleiman at work, trust me – you want every moment to last a lifetime. This exclusive masterclass was held in a central London studio in front of a starstudded audience – guests included Angelo Seminara, Tim Hartley, Anthony and Pat Mascolo and Eugene’s former boss, Trevor Sorbie. It was the current Most Wanted Hair Icon’s chance to share his creative process and a rare opportunity for us to watch him work live, recreating some of the mindblowing looks he’s delivered over the years for designers like Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto and, more recently, John Galliano. We learned that he loves contrast in hair, likes his styles to look imperfect (he says “weather-beaten” a lot), works instinctively, and likes it when accidents happen. “I work with designers who throw curveballs at you, so you have to re-think everything you’ve been taught about hairdressing,” he explained. “It pushes you to think in a different way about hair and that takes you to interesting places – places you’d never have thought of otherwise. I love that challenge.” For Eugene, creating the hair for a show starts with the designer and he loves it when he’s asked to do outlandish things. “I’m all about turning it up. I’m not quiet, I’m engaged. I’m in it to be creative because for me it’s a release and I love that exchange of working with creative people,” he says. “I want to work with visionaries and artists, people who don’t just make clothes to sell but who have a dream and a vision. I feed off their energy.” Eugene’s training shines through in every aspect of his work and he fully acknowledges that it’s been his strength over the years. “I’m no stranger to getting the block out and practising,” he says. “I do that a lot. As a session hairdresser you’re doing lots of different things all of the time, so you don’t get to focus on one specific skill. When I feel that
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Look 1 my braiding or my cutting isn’t up to scratch, I go away and practice. You can’t be a one-trick pony in this game. You’ve got to have as much ammunition as possible.” It’s this absolute creative focus, mixed with his easy-going, down-to-earth nature, that inspires utter devotion in people – and a long line of names queuing up to be on his team. Selection for those top spots tends to be organic, and Instagram has become a useful recruitment tool. “People contact you and you create some dialogue and every season someone comes along who I think is interesting and I think would fit in,” he says. “I do like everyone to have their ‘thing’, to be who they are. I don’t like everyone to be the same person. I like a mix, I like the variety, and it means they all help each other out. “I’ve always worked as part of a team, and for me it’s all about the collaboration. I’m very lucky. I work with people like Pat [McGrath] and Val [Garland] who share my sensibility, but you also have to have some not-great experiences or failures because these lead you to a whole new place creatively. You’ve got to think of the big picture, not just what happens on the shoot that day.” Even after a career spanning three decades, you can tell Eugene is going through something of a creative renaissance. He is fired up, working with people he can spark with, and – tellingly – wanting to challenge himself. “My anxiety about not being good enough is what motivates me,” he says. “Journalists often ask me where I go to for inspiration – but they’re completely missing the point! I don’t need to go anywhere for inspiration because it’s everywhere around me. The mistake people make is to get too far ahead of themselves and try and predict where they’ll find an idea – like in a gallery. It’s so much more important to feel what you’re doing. To believe in what you’re doing and enjoy it.” And with that, the final look is done. The audience is on their feet, rising as one in response to the magic they’ve just witnessed – hair like they’ve never seen before, from the futuristic and whimsical to the stripped-back and simple, and all created by the trailblazing, risk-taking genius that is Eugene Souleiman. EUGENE SOULEIMAN’S MASTERCLASS WAS ORGANISED BY HAIRDRESSING LIVE
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THIS LOOK COMBINES techniques from two Alexander McQueen shows – The Birds and The Widows of Culloden. Hair was rick-rack pinset at the back and brushed out to create as much static as possible. On the top, the hair was blow-dried completely flat (“squashed”) to the head, while at the sides, hair was sectioned, backcombed and rolled around a pair of chopsticks to create abstract-shaped buns. A final bun, rolled at the back, was placed jauntily on the top of the head.
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Always stand back and look at what you Are doing - you may need a change of plan. I like it when accidents happen. Instead of trying to rectify the situation, I use ii it as a springboard for a new direction. CREATIVE HEAD
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THIS IS PURE EUGENE: a nod to his youth with the Chelsea Girl skinhead combined with a reference to an 18th century French Revolutionary look sported by ‘Les Incroyables’ – and all created on a wig that looked so realistic, even the expert audience was fooled. Having shaved the top of the head with clippers and sprayed the blunt fringe with beer (Kronenbourg 1664, in case you ask) before smoothing it onto the forehead, Eugene then created and sectioned a ponytail at the back, backcombing each section and wrapping it around the ponytail to create a dreadlock effect. The final flourish? “As we’re dealing with the French Revolution, we need a bow, don’t we!”
I love the chaos of this. I love i i the ‘mistake ’ at the back, where it looks like the hair has fallen down. It is romantic, organised confusion. i i WHEN EUGENE was booked over Julien d’Ys for his first show with Yohji Yamamoto in Paris (“Those were big boots to fill!”) he rose to the challenge with a fishtail braid, pulled wide and open so that it looked organic and weatherbeaten and beautiful, rather than neat and shiny. Here, working without combs or sectioning, and simply moving the model’s hair around to determine placement, he combines that fishtail with a box braid, accentuated with brightly coloured embroidery thread, and ensures the detailing of the Yohji dress is visible at the nape by pinning hair artfully to one side. Loose hairs are gently teased out to create a beautiful cloud of romantic softness.
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I have a love/hate relationship with the mullet, and I want to overcome any reservations I may have about it. I mean, what is bad taste? Is it just the unfamiliar that we doni t like? Is it because wei re conditioned to think it i s not beautiful?”ii 99
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Look 5 Look 4
ANOTHER WIG, but this time Eugene wanted to accentuate the fakeness. He placed a short, brown wig on the model’s head and used clippers to remove the hair around the crown, leaving the wefts exposed. He then removed the wig, turned it inside out and replaced it on the model’s head, directing hairspray into the airstream of the dryer to lift the exposed strands of hair. And by the way, the dress is made out of Eugene’s old hip-hop socks – he’s on a mission to re-purpose all his old stuff!
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The new beauty is all i in the mind. It’s not the i physicality, it’s the attitude. i As hairdressers, we’ve got to look further afield to help people find their own ii versions of beauty.
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“MARIE ANTOINETTE meets Dr Zhivago, with a nod to early Vivienne Westwood,” says Eugene of this look – actually, inspired by a scene in Fellini’s Casanova. He wanted it to be as big and as fake as possible, a culture clash of period style and modern texture. And check out those colours! Yellowy, golden, nicotiney… Nothing with Eugene is ever safe or predictable. He assembled the looks as if he were working with a kit, affixing the different bits of hair to a cage placed on the model’s head, and working intuitively to create the shape he wanted. Grips were randomly on display to create a feeling of surprise, and he straightened all of the loose hair with irons to give an air of modernity.
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I like this because it feels sporadic and off and a little bit wrong!”ii CREATIVE HEAD
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Look 7 Look 6
EUGENE’S GOOD friend, the make-up artist Pat McGrath, spotted this holographic fabric at a Chanel fitting and instantly knew Eugene would work his magic with it. Here, he applied the fabric in delicate layers, then moulded it to the model’s head using the heat from a hairdryer through a hair net. The finishing touch? A precision fringe, angled ‘just so’. Masterful.
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When I get Scared, I know Ii m doing something new. Fear can be an amazing motivator. I am quite addicted to it. it fires me up and brings ii out the best in me.”
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THIS MANNEQUIN-LIKE look is another example of Eugene’s love of contrast in hair – the sci-fi mood of the red glitter skullcap offset by the use of gothic, romantic black lace. “I love that it’s hard and soft at the same time,” he said. To create the look, Eugene mixed red glitter into gel and painted it directly onto the model’s slickedback hair, using masking tape over the forehead to help create a defined line for the fringe (a tip he picked up from his make-up artist friends). After drying off the gel he gently applied short lengths of lace, the delicate detailing providing a beautiful contrast to the vivid red colour and texture beneath.
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My advice for any young hairdresser just starting out? Try not to think of getting to your destination as quickly as possible. The journey is the ii most important part. 101
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FREEDOM ’19
THE ANTIFY COLLECTION FROM ANTI AND ITS GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, NICK IRWIN, EXPRESSES THE FREEDOM OF WHAT HAIR WANTS TO DO. IT’S ABOUT EMPOWERMENT AND ACCESSIBILITY WITH AN ATTITUDE. THIS IS HOW PEOPLE REALLY THINK ABOUT HAIR... PHOTOGR APHY BY R ANKIN CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Nick Irwin, assisted by Ellie Bond and Charles Stanley. MAKE-UP Marco Antonio. STYLING Lola Chatterton. NAILS Jessica Thompson.
Southern
Scene
SPRINGTIME MEANS SHOWTIME across the UK, as the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Regional Semi-Finals stop off in cities across the land to find the most fashion-forward salon colourists. Starting in Belfast, the colour creatives have been competing across three categories to win a place in the Grand Final on 3 June at Battersea Evolution. As well as winners announced on the night, each Semi-Final also offers additional places to salons deemed Best in Region, who are added to the pool for the Shortlisted Judging Stage. From this pool, 16 then make it through to the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final, and eight to the Men’s Image Award, regardless of region. With expert eyes on the judging panel – think Skyler Hanna, Tina Farey and It List It Girl Grace Dalgleish, to name a few – finalists had only 30 minutes to prep and impress. Among the Grand Finalists are plenty of peachy-tones and almost neon yellows… who’s your money on?
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North East
and tell
Eastern
SHOW
The Southern judges
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
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London
Northern Irish
North West Western Scottish London CREATIVE HEAD
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John Vial and Catherine Handcock
Catherine and Sam Burnett
NEXT UP Coterie: In Session! Book
tickets at creativeheadmag.com/events
Pleased to THE COTERIE, Creative HEAD’s networking club, brought together stars of the session and music worlds to discuss their journeys in front of its very first Dublin audience. Hosted by Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock, a 90-strong crowd congregated in the Irish capital as Sam Burnett, owner and creative director of Hare & Bone; Cinta Miller, celebrity hair and make-up artist; Faye Purcell, creative manager at record label BMG; and John Vial, session stylist and co-owner of London’s Salon Sloane; delved deep into their career history. Sam talked honestly about opening his salons, working backstage at Fashion Week and styling the hair of musicians Charli XCX and Dua Lipa. Next up taking their places in the Coterie hot seats were Cinta Miller and Faye Purcell. The pair – interviewing each other – discussed developing an artist’s style and taking risks on music videos. The evening’s final speaker, John Vial, shared tales from two and a half decades on the hair scene at London and New York Fashion Weeks, and discussed building and nurturing relationships with celebrities. It was a night of laughs, drinks and real insight – with special thanks to the night’s sponsors BaByliss PRO, which provided every guest with one of its latest styling tools.
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Cinta Miller and Faye Purcell
MEET YOU
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FOREVER
Sheri Doss
Tracey Cunningham
Hollywood
It was a taste of Beverley Hills as colourist to the stars and Instagram icon, Tracey Cunningham, held her first ever masterclasses on UK soil to packed audiences in London and Manchester. We caught up with one of the ‘lookand-learn’ sessions held at Redken’s London academy, where Tracey shared her favourite foiling techniques. She also shared a handful of hilariously honest anecdotes with Sheri Doss, vice-president worldwide of Redken Education, and demonstrated her highly-coveted formulas used on A-listers including Jennifer Lopez, Emma Stone and colour chameleon Khloé Kardashian. Throughout the session Tracey weaved practical advice for salon life, confessing that although she processes an astonishing 40 clients a day, her primary focus is always to keep her staple grey-haired customers content. “Don’t forget them,” she told the captive audience, who clamoured to take selfies with her as soon as she left the stage. “They pay your bills! It’s all about making clients happy, making them feel like they have a home away from home and having them come back. And remember your mistakes, they are so useful. I have all these formulas and fun things in my pocket simply because of the mistakes I’ve made along the way.”
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Could there have been any destination but Paris to celebrate the 110th anniversary of L’Oréal Professionnel? A three-day birthday bash united more than 2,000 hair stylists, partners and celebrity friends, with an opening night at the Carrousel du Louvre, one of the city’s most iconic venues. On stage, guests were treated to a show titled “La French, Art of Hair Coloring” by leading names such as Odile Gilbert. Among the A-list audience were international spokesperson, Alexa Chung, French acting legend Catherine Deneuve and fashion photographer Ellen Von Unwerth. After the party, a series of workshops and masterclasses led by a range of hosts and speakers followed at the Palais de Tokyo, before the international grand final and winners’ celebration of the Style & Colour Trophy at the Salle Pleyel, this included a spectacular show by an international team including the UK’s Adam Reed. First prize went to Wendy Gunn from Ink for Hair in Australia, while Mai Ha and Emma Beveridge from Trevor Sorbie scooped the International L’Oréal Professionnel Cut & Style Award.
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Alexa Chung
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L’Oréal’s Nicolas Hieronimus and Jean-Paul Agon with Catherine Deneuve
Ellen Von Unwerth
Equipm ent safe and sound with my @ba1–bags Salon Bag
Th e process can be just as coo l as the end res ult #tb to the #avedaartistsh oot with @avedauk, @creative head mag, @jp–grege rsen and @hay slewi s
In the
So much Parisia n inspirat ion at the moment, thanks to @taylo rlashae
frame Zach Spivey (@zachspiveyhair), senior stylist and educator at Amanda Marsden Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa and recent winner of the #AvedaArtist contest, snaps away
#Ice #Aved aArtist Competition make- up and photog raphy by @ninaj anephotograph y–
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
Keeping a straight line with @hb–p–h–o–t–o–g–r–a–p–h–y
Had a great time takin g @ken nedy–w–hair throu gh this creat ive unde rcut 114
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A peek from the @avedauk shoot for @creativehead mag with @lukeccastillo
The look I created for the salon’s fifth birthday celebration event, image by @ninajanephotography–
I had so much fun creatin g this look for my guest, so many shapes and texture s CREATIVE HEAD
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THE LEONARDO DA VINCI NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, MILAN, ITALY
Celebrating the Italian genius of Leonardo da Vinci.
#ALFAPARFPEOPLE DREAM LIKE LEONARDO WHERE TECHNOLOGY MEETS ART NEW CONCEPTS OF RED, BLONDE AND BROWN. 6 ORIGINAL EVOLUTION OF THE COLOR3 SHADES DISCOVER THE STORY ON ALFAPARFMILANO.COM
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