Issue 02/2019
Outliers THE
The innovators and salons disrupting the status quo 001 Outliers_Issue2_Cover_GW7.indd 1
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@charlihoward
All rights reserved. 2018
UP TO 8 LEVELS OF LIFT. NO BONDING ADDITIVE NEEDED. BREAKUP WITH BREAKAGE Now you can finally say yes and lift your clients to their dream blonde — even those with sensitized hair! New Flash Lift Bonder Inside is a lightening powder that also has bonder built-in, helping you protect bonds to keep fibers strong while lifting up to 8 levels. Get all of the bonding power you need during a lightening service, with none of the extra steps. #FlashLiftBonderInside
WELCOME/CONTENTS
Outliers Welcome THE HIGH STREET may be facing some tough challenges in the year ahead, but what has emerged from the retail squeeze are some dazzling examples of business brains. Old masters and young entrepreneurs are approaching consumer-facing ventures with ingenuity, originality and a genuine point of difference. We’re increasingly aware that modern audiences, particularly younger guests, are searching for standout experiences, ones they can share with their communities, and it’s shaping what kind of businesses we see succeeding. Those burning brightly once again are the Outliers. As our definition at the top of this page illustrates, these are people who stand out from the crowd, who think differently and deliver something special. They understand they need to deliver an experience unlike their local competitors, whether that’s in the salon or through today’s shop window of social media. Whether they’re just starting out or have been busy on the salon floor across a couple of decades, the salons included here are the ones that illustrate how it can be done in a meaningful, exciting and business-boosting way. As you turn these pages – stuffed with personality, wit, charm and colour – we hope you’ll find lashings of inspiration from the stylists, colourists, educators, business gurus and backstage stars that embrace life that little bit differently, and all find the perfect partner in Redken.
Contents 04 12 14 20 22
Generation game
Meet the modern salons spanninng the generation gap
Peachy keen
Redken color creative director Josh Wood talks S/S19 trends
Gloss bosses
The champions of colour causing a serious social stir
Leader of the pack
Redken global creative director Guido Palau on S/S19 style
Tomorrow’s world
We draw on wider beauty trends to predict hair’s future
24
French connection
26
Rise up
36
A fine bromance
42
From salon to session
44
Time to thrive
48
All the world’s a stage
50
On the spot
The RADIO team create simple cuts with an editorial edge The brands that have expanded their salons – and client bases The market is booming for male grooming How session stars juggle a regular column Regional salons winning the high street battle What does it take to join the elite?
We question Redken colour star Tracey Cunningham
Amanda Nottage Editor
Commissioned portrait photography by Simon Burt, (simonburtphotography.com), Alexander Caminada (caminada.co.uk), Amy Cooke (amycooke.com), Jo Hanley (johanley.com), Roger Kenny (rogerkenny.ie), Andy Lane (andylane.com) and Harvey Williams-Fairley (harvey-williams-fairley.format.com)
Definition: person(s) differing from all other members of a particular group or set
EDITOR Amanda Nottage SUPPLEMENT EDITOR Deborah Murtha WRITER Anna Samson ART Graeme White CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann DIGITAL ASSISTANT Kelsey Dring ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Alison Rowley SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER Jenny Brooks SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR Joanna Andersen PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock Supplement produced in association with Redken. On the cover: Corrado Tevere of RADIO London, Kings Cross. Photography by Amy Cooke
CONTACT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk The Outliers is a supplement of Creative HEAD, which is published by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this supplement may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. It is the responsibility of contributors submitting imagery and materials to ensure these are cleared for publication. Printing by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
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Generation game It’s not easy to span multiple generations and attract all ages of clients, but these thoroughly modern salons are doing things differently. From salon design to services, they have each developed a winning formula…
Sugar Cubed Dublin
THE TEAM AT Sugar Cubed aim to give clients their most individual cuts ever. Led by Mark O’Keeffe, the Cubed crew stays on its toes with constantly evolving styles. The retro chairs and warehousestyle space are all paired together with a dark palette and bold splashes of colour that makes it look classic yet cutting-edge. There’s yet more contrast at the backwash, with futuristic sci-fi washers facing classical stained-glass windows. This is the edgy little sister of Brown Sugar’s more traditional take on hairdressing, but Sugar Cubed’s concept centres around being able to deliver the same high standard of hairdressing. With the slogan ‘Our Culture, Our Way’, Sugar Cubed is a siren call to former punks and new romantics of the ’80s as much as it is
for the individualistic Insta-crowd. Not everyone wants a classic salon experience, and Sugar Cubed’s relaxed, urban vibe offers something with a little more edge. That’s why Redken is a good fit, says Mark: “Like us, Redken is edgy, it’s street and constantly pushing the boundaries of colour and styling.” He also argues that quality is at the heart of both Redken and Sugar Cubed’s brand offerings. You’ll see that through the cuts, colours or its esoteric gin offering at the bar area. “We try to stay ahead of the game, utilising creative partnerships and adapting ourselves to growing trends in technology,” Mark adds. “As one of the first boutique salons to launch in Ireland, we had a lot of USPs. But what really sets us apart from other salons is our client focus and our dynamic and fresh team.”
Photography by Roger Kenny
@sugarcubeddub
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GENERATIONS XYZ
“Like us, Redken is edgy, it’s street and constantly pushing the boundaries of colour and styling”
Mark O’Keeffe
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The Lion & The Fox London
COOL AND CONCEPTUAL, this laid-back salon space combines a rotating gallery of art with local touches and trend-leading cutting work. Director Tim Pateman explains how every decision counts when building a salon with a difference: “Since we opened, we have always been conscious of creating an environment that’s comfortable and inviting for all, and this is undoubtedly why we have such a diverse age range of clientele. “We wanted to use materials that got better with age, like a good pair of jeans, meaning that if you spill something it doesn’t ruin the salon environment. The salon is not over-styled but develops with natural wear and tear, to immediately make staff and customers feel comfortable.” An imposing reception desk was replaced with a workable table
and window seating. The design is sparse but colourful, and using local suppliers for everything from their coffee beans to their flowers gives a more thought-out, personal appeal. “The major part of the success of the salon is giving clients a space they feel comfortable enough in to hang out,” he adds. “To feel comfortable enough to help themselves to another drink, to feel like this is a home from home.” When choosing a brand to pair with, the message and efficacy of the products were equally important. “We chose Redken as a brand because its products work and its philosophy is something we feel works with us,” says Tim, who has converted the salon fully to the brand now. “We were previously with brands that didn’t quite hit the mark, but Redken has a product and colour to fit everyone.”
Photography by Andy Lane
@tlandtf
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GENERATIONS XYZ
“We chose Redken as a brand because its products work and its philosophy is something we feel works with us”
Tim Pateman
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GENERATIONS XYZ
Candy Nailsworth
@candy_hairart
“Redken has made our lives so much easier! The quality of the products is stunning”
Amy Bowden
creative environment to work in and that our clients enjoy the space and have something interesting to look at while their colour is cooking!” When your salon is so obviously a reflection of your specialty, it’s important to be able to back it up with the goods so that everyone, no matter their age, can have the beautiful hair they want. “Redken has made our lives so much easier! The quality of the products is stunning,” adds Amy. “The product that seems to have taken off most in our salon is Shades EQ. We market it as a gloss; most people who book for a blow-dry or cut are likely to book for a gloss, too. We love to make customised toners, mixing them together to create Candy cocktails.”
Photography by Alexander Caminda
COLOUR IS LIFE for Amy Bowden and the team at Candy in Nailsworth, Gloucestershire. The zingy, pop-art inspired salon décor shows her team are all about mixing cool with classic. “We really focus on promoting self-worth,” Amy says. “No matter what walk of life clients are from, if they want more of a natural look or a vivid colour, we will always listen, support and educate to help them achieve their hair goals.” You can’t help but be inspired by the space, with the quirky paint pots spilling colour down the walls and a 3D comb art installation hanging from the ceiling. The design was something that Amy spent plenty of time getting right. She explains: “It’s really important that we have a fun,
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@marinadnery
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All rights reserved. 2018
FRIZZ CONTROL, HUMIDITY PROTECTION & SMOOTHING FOR ALL HAIR TYPES
NEW FRIZZ DISMISS
HAIRCARE SYSTEM Redken Frizz Dismiss, with sustainably sourced babassu oil, nourishes, softens and conditions* hair providing frizz protection for all hair types. With system use of US shampoo, conditioner, mask and Rebel Tame
*
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Peachy keen Marc Jacobs. Photography by James Cochrane
S/S19 saw a riot of colour across the runways. Redken creative color director Josh Wood tells us what to expect more of
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JOSH WOOD
Outliers: What are the S/S19 hair colour trends salons need to be ready for? Josh Wood: Colour has become a huge talking point, it’s almost like colour is a trend in itself. From the pale pastels we created at Marc Jacobs to the intense reds at Miu Miu, it’s firmly on the calendar for spring. I think more tonal shades are the thing to watch out for; the new Color Gels Lacquers from Redken help to give me intense colours that are bright yet realistic and multi-dimensional.
Josh Wood
O: What got the biggest reaction of the colour looks you created for S/S19?
JW: The sophisticated pastels at Marc Jacobs were the looks everyone was talking about. The sheer scale and number of different tones were quite arresting on the catwalk – we coloured 37 models.
to the model’s hair exactly, with all the natural highs and lows and the fade towards the ends. We had 50 models to colour, most of them with different starting points of colour.
O: What were your three biggest show highlights from the season? JW: Definitely the vintage pastels at Marc Jacobs, the next-level natural at Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry and Miu Miu’s bold reds.
O: What were the main challenges backstage for you and your team? JW: Time, team and budgets. We are often called in at the last minute – sometimes just hours before the show – so working effectively and precisely is paramount to me. Trying to get the right talent in the right place can be a logistical nightmare;
“The extensive portfolio of products from Redken means I can fulfil colour briefs exactly” Josh Wood
Valentino Couture (Instagram @kaiagerber)
Images courtesy of Redken, unless otherwise stated
Marc Jacobs
O: We’re seeing more colour than ever on the runway – what’s changed?
JW: Designers are thinking more in terms of colour. I work with Redken global creative director Guido Palau and he really understands and values what hair colour can contribute to a look. He works in an inclusive way, which helps to make colour more available to Runway looks. With the extensive portfolio of products from Redken I can fulfil colour briefs exactly; from Redken City Beats all the way through to Shades EQ, there’s an array of tones and density of colours to play with.
O: What was your favourite technique from the shows?
JW: A show that was very techniqueheavy was Valentino Couture. We created larger-than-life hairstyles, where each wig needed to be matched
when we have multiple teams in different locations it can be really challenging. And I have to be everywhere, which I couldn’t do without the support of my team, especially Mads-Sune Lund Christensen, my first assistant and 2018 It List Fashionista winner. The process of finalising costs and production again are a huge challenge. My PA, Paul Smith, works relentlessly to make these creative projects run smoothly. He works very closely with my agents at Streeters to deliver the best creative looks and interpretation of a designer’s vision.
O: Which Redken colour products did you use the most this season?
JW: It was a real mix. Some days it was Redken Flash Lift, sometimes Color Gels Lacquers or Shades EQ and some days it was City Beats. The Outliers 13
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Gloss bosses Shades EQ is the gloss that was made for social media. Searches for #HealthyHair jumped up by 158 per cent on Google*, and demand for Shades EQ services has risen by 28 per cent compared with 2017** – find out how some of the UK’s greatest Gloss Bosses leverage their social savviness and Shades EQ to raise their online profile
*Netbase survey, 2019 **Redken survey, 2019 Salon photography by Jo Hanley
Instagram @ladyluxhairx
Steph Baron Lady Lux @ladyluxhairx “I HAVE MORE THAN 50,000 photos on my phone and it’s 99 per cent hair. It can be hard finding the time, but posting daily definitely plays a key factor,” says Steph Baron, owner of Lady Lux in Edinburgh. This chic salon is made for Instagram, with its cool neon signage, geometric tiling and, of course, the team’s incredible colour work. “You can be as subtle or as creative as you like when it comes to colour. Even just a few foils or babylights can change up someone’s entire look,” Steph adds, referring to the booming balayage business and extensions expertise of the salon. With such a clear-cut vision and aesthetic, the #BabesofLadyLux are in great hands. Her best piece of advice for fellow colourists would be to “take photos and videos of EVERYTHING!” Whether useful as a reference point or the next snap for social, documenting your hard work is never a bad thing.
“Shades EQ is a dream – the mixing, the application and the blend! I honestly can’t get enough of it”
Steph Baron 14 The Outliers
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Portraits by Amy Cooke
GLOSS BOSSES
Samantha Cusick Samantha Cusick London @samanthacusicklondon Her best advice for being a social star salon? “Be consistent. Don’t get hung up on followers and likes, they will come. Be genuine with what you post, with no filters, as you’ll only make life harder for yourself trying to meet impossible expectations.” For genuine growth, steer clear of buying followers or using interaction robots: “It’s such a huge no-no and can be spotted a mile away!”
Instagram @samanthacusicklondon
SAMANTHA CUSICK’S REPUTATION for beautiful brondes and effortless balayage precedes her. Between her glossy Shades EQ finishes and sleek salon touches, it’s no wonder she’s a hit with the biggest influencers. Statement wallpaper, millennial pink furniture and art deco mirrors aside, her inimitable work is the star of the show here. “Social media is such a minefield, navigating it is a full time job in itself!”
“There are so many techniques that can be applied which transform your look and your attitude. We love using Shades EQ to add depth, vibrancy and shine”
Lisa and Krystle Hughes 1501 @1501_hairsalon
Instagram @1501_hairsalon
Lisa Hughes
IT’S THE SHEER scale of possibility that excites Lisa and Krystle Hughes and their team in Dundalk, Co. Louth. “Colour work allows the stylists the best opportunity to express themselves in a creative way,” Lisa explains. “There are so many techniques that can be applied which transform your look and your attitude. We love using Shades EQ to add depth, vibrancy and shine.” Even within the blonde spectrum – the salon’s specialty – Lisa and Krystle know there’s so much that can be done:
“With blondes it is all about getting the hair into the best possible condition and to maintain that condition while lifting. There is so much versatility in blonde.” Keeping potential and existing clients in the loop via Instagram is something they take seriously. “Finding the balance of posting enough and not overloading is always the trick,” Lisa advises. “The best thing is the reposts from clients – everyone gets such a buzz when our clients love their hair.” The Outliers 15
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Megan Niccolls Voodou @meganniccollshair
“The Shades EQ pigments have loads of welly but give a sheer result. It is by far the best colour on the market”
Sophie Bullivant
Sophie Bullivant Colour Me Sophie B @colourmesophieb SOPHIE BULLIVANT has created instantly recognisable branding – sassy, unashamedly girly and full of beautiful transformations, Sophie and her Solihullbased team live and breathe colour. “We just get so excited about how much impact hair colour has on a woman,” she explains. “Enhancing her look, of course, but the best bit for us is how it lifts her mood and demeanour. Hair colour should be put on prescription!
Instagram @meganniccollshair
her intense multi-coloured designs, by honing her skills and letting others focus on specialties such as balayage or natural shades, Megan has cultivated a column filled with work she loves – win-win! “I love Shades EQ and the consistency of Redken’s colours,” she adds. “They’re easy to melt together; City Beats is so vivid it’s perfect for my signature rainbow colours.”
Instagram @colourmesophieb
Instagram @colourmesophieb
PAINTING THE town every shade imaginable in Liverpool is the Voodou team, headed up by Megan Nicholls. Creating her own colourful personality and speciality within the salon has helped to differentiate her from the rest of the team. She notes that carving out her own niche and expressing that across social media has been crucial. Known for
“It really does boost your confidence, and there is nothing as beautiful as a confident woman.” Without a doubt, Shades EQ is the team’s go-to product, as its magic-ina-bottle formula creates perfect Instaready looks to be snapped against the salon’s statement floral backdrop. “The pigments have loads of welly but give a sheer result,” she says. “It is by far the best colour on the market and gives a really high-end finish and polish.”
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GLOSS BOSSES
“Things change so fast that you can never get bored. The trends and formulations really keep me on my toes”
Seniz Alkan Neville Hair and Beauty @senizalkancolour DEVELOPING SIGNATURE techniques, such as the salon’s Palm Painting for a balayage-esque style, gives this salon the edge against other colour rivals. “I love the versatility of our craft. Things change so fast that you can never get bored. The trends and formulations really keep me on my toes,” Seniz explains. “My favourite products to use are Redken Shades EQ and Chromatics, for even results from root to tip. I love that all of my clients get a piece of me in my work, it makes me feel accomplished.” With a distinct talent for spinning hair into different shades of gold without sacrificing hair texture, Seniz has been
Instagram @senizalkancolour
Seniz Alkan
championing the strides made within colour thanks to the increased interest – but warns against the slide in expected skills as salons rush to offer more and more trend-led services. Taking the client into account, as much as their hair, is also something she emphasises. In the same way that you wouldn’t give a client a cut that doesn’t suit their lifestyle, you must choose your colour technique carefully to suit the woman in your chair.
WANT TO BE A GLOSS BOSS? The mighty pink bottle has a million and one uses, and is the starting point for countless client colour journeys. Learn how to produce ’grammable results with the Shades EQ Gets Social specialist course, which will have new colour clients flocking to your salon! Join A-List colourist Craig Purves (@craigsworldofhair) to learn how to get the best results with Shades EQ on social media. Craig will showcase the latest techniques, formulas and content styles to elevate your social presence. Events take place in London, Manchester, Leeds and Ireland – book now at lorealaccess.com/uk
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Liquid lovers
Talk about a match made in heaven – the unique textures and pigments of Redken’s Shades EQ and Color Gels Lacquers are a dream duo
2018 SAW CONSUMER AWARENESS of colour trends and techniques grow at an incredible pace. Social media has had a huge influence on where clients are sourcing inspiration for their looks – and become a way of being able to highlight your own talents as a colourist. Social media has become the leveller when it comes to salon success. With a busy colour conversation taking place online, it’s important to ask – how are you standing out from
the crowd? First and foremost, you need a palette to give you a point of difference. Easy to apply, blend and shade match, Redken colour is what you need to deliver instant colour results and uncompromising shine. Long hailed as the number one US colour brand, Redken colour offers a unique proposition for salons that dare to be different: the liquid colour duo of Color Gels Lacquers and Shades EQ.
FOR SHADES TH AT DES THAT FOR SHA
TONE
FOR SHADES THAT
GLOSS
REFRESH
FOR SH ADES TH AT
FOR SHADES THAT
COVER
FOR SHADES THAT
COLOUR
CORRE CT
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ADVERTORIAL
NEW
Color Gels Lacquers PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR with low ammonia, intense saturation and shine. Are you ready to turn it up? The new Redken Color Gels Lacquers pack a real pigmented punch. Offering long-lasting colour and 100 per cent grey coverage, these next-generation gel formulas are perfect for taking your colour work up a notch. Saturate hair with high precision, whether straight from the bottle or a bowl, with up to four levels of lift and more than 45 shades to choose from. With the same colour palette as your much-loved Shades EQ, you can mix and match to create beautiful, seamless results. l Coverage Advanced technology with exceptional results, offering up to 100 per cent grey coverage l Colour Up to four levels of lift and fade-resistant results with UV-stable, long-lasting dye technology l Condition Respect hair’s integrity for instant glossy results and health
The perfec pair t ICONIC
Shades EQ Gloss THE GO-TO FORMULA to create dreamy shades with an A-List finish. For every technique, every client, every colour – there is a Shades EQ. The unique, demi-permanent gloss formula is able to offer unbeatable colour without lifting hair. No matter what your client is looking for, this flexible formulation is on hand to help. Gloss, refresh, cover greys, tone, correct and even colour – this pink powerhouse bottle can do it all. l Super Results Guaranteed even results, no matter
what hair type you are working on
l Super Glossy Insta-ready shine and gloss, a colour
that was made to be social!
l Super Versatile More than just a toner, there
is nothing that one (or two!) of these pink bottles can’t do
To be part of a new-generation colour house, contact Redken for a bespoke colour demonstration. Join the colour tribe today – email info.redken@loreal.com for more information REDKEN.CO.UK
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REDKEN
REDKENUK
REDKENUKI
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Leader of the pack We hail the return of stylised looks guided by Guido Palau, global creative director for Redken, but what caused this S/S19 shake-up? We caught up with him to find out… 20 The Outliers
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Sacai
Marc Jacobs
GUIDO PALAU
Versace
summarise the S/S19 trends?
Guido Palau: “The looks were so varied, it’s hard to put them in a nutshell. We saw everything from natural hair to almost couture hair, extreme haircuts and colours. Extreme eclecticism, in a way. It’s hard to say nowadays that a season is going to be ‘about’ anything… It’s a feeling. If anything, I feel a push towards more ‘done’ hair; we’ve seen natural hair for a long time.”
Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texture Spray. Hairspray of course, for that couture finish, Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist and the new Dry Styling collection.”
O: What’s changed in the way
catwalk hair is approached?
GP: “I think I’ve changed! I want to see something else. I’ve seen so many radical haircuts I can’t see any more; no more buzzcuts, we’ve seen all that. I think it’s more extreme to see
Marc Jacobs
Outliers: How would you
of the season?
GP: “I loved the couture feel of Marc Jacobs, and working with Redken creative color director Josh Wood to get these antique colours with Redken Shades EQ. I love collaborating with Josh on both the colour and the shapes. To have the chance to do that was amazing. I also really loved doing the haircuts at Miu Miu and the microbangs at Prada.” O: Which Redken products
were your must-haves for your S/S19 kit?
GP: The No Blow Dry Hair Cream was really important, as was the
something very dressed, something very done nowadays. It seems more startling, which is a complete change to how you would have seen beauty previously. Extreme haircuts, that previously would have been quite shocking, now seem quite palatable and easy to look at. When I did the big hair at Valentino Couture, it seemed more surprising to see that than it is to see supposedly ‘edgy’ hair.”
O: Why do you think we are
seeing more ‘done’ hair now?
GP: “Done, dressed hair just looks more startling and more worked on now. But as to why this has changed, I don’t know if it’s the zeitgeist or something that art is feeling.”
Valentino Couture (Instagram @guidopalau)
Miu Miu (Instagram @guidopalau)
Images courtesy of Redken, unless otherwise stated
Prada
O: What were your highlights
Burberry
“I love collaborating with Josh Wood both on the colour and the shapes. To have the chance to do that was amazing” Guido Palau
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Natural Sciences
Tomorrow’s world Hair trends don’t exist in a vacuum. Drawing on wider beauty movements and influences, Outliers shares with you an insight into where the future of haircare is heading…
LAST YEAR SAW MACRO TRENDS from the wider beauty space really make their presence known in hair. Now more than ever, consumers are super-savvy about beauty, with better understanding of techniques, formulations and ingredients, thanks to the likes of beauty bloggers such as skincare guru Caroline Hirons, Reddit subthreads on the minutiae of formulas, and community-led beauty sites such as Into The Gloss. Salons need to keep up or run the risk of such clients opting to visit nimble online retailers and digital brands. The pressure is on for brands to ensure that the products and services they’re supplying to salons also hit the mark for the beauty-literate consumer. Redken is leading the pack thanks to a hard-working R&D department headed by Shane Wolf. As worldwide general manager of Redken, he’s overseen all of the
biggest launches in recent years, including the Color Extend Blondage and Graydiant haircare ranges – developed in response to hairdressers’ requests – and the Clean Maniac range that utilises skincare staple micellar water. From the rise of South Korean beauty we’ve seen the All Soft Mega Sheet Mask for hair; and in response to the next generation-natural looks on the catwalk, we saw No Blow Dry Creams emerge, guided by Guido. But joining the dots to predict what will be on trend in months, if not years, is a tricky business. Outliers consulted Sarirah Hamid, creator of independent beauty trend insight and creative forecasting service Pretty Analytics, which has built a system that monitors quantitative data across the web and social media to see what is being – or will be – talked about. Here are four main growth areas identified for hair…
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Celebrating individuality
Personalisation and individuality is predicted to weigh heavily in haircare over the next five years, according to data from Pretty Analytics. There has already been great growth in this sector, with new products emerging that address more specific and niche hair concerns, rather then simply offering clients a catch-all solution. Redken’s best-selling Color Extend range has helped pave the way, offering a much more tailored approach to different hair colours and types. Color Extend range
Dry Shampoo Powder 02
MACRO TRENDS
Skincare-inspired ingredients
‘Skincare for hair’ is set to grow even more. Formulations and ingredients usually found in our skincare routines are working their way into shampoos, treatments and serums. This includes transformative textures, such as gel to oil, ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, superfoods and plant waters, as well as food-based proteins such as egg and quinoa. We’ve already seen evidence of these new and unusual textures beginning to take hold of the market. The new Redken Dry Texturising collection features on-trend, mattifying charcoal in lightweight hold formulas for a barely-there, lived-in feel.
New naturals
Weather-proof beauty
Personalisation also looks at consumer needs based on their lifestyle choices and living environments. The concept of ‘weather-proof beauty’ is a newly emerging trend and looks at how factors such as high humidity, strong dry winds, hard water or even pollution can affect us on a daily basis. Redken is on the ball with this, primed to launch its revamped Frizz Dismiss range. Landing in March, the range is designed to target issues faced in wet weather, humidity and hot/dry climates. It provides frizz control and smoothing for all hair types and is formulated with sustainably sourced babassu oil. And speaking of heat, look out for new Redken Playsafe for Extreme heat protection, launching later this year!
Frizz Dismiss
All Soft Mega Sheet Mask
Consumers are increasingly researching more sustainable or natural versions of their favourite products. Arriving later this year, the Natural Sciences range will join the ongoing conversation about the need for more eco-friendly formulas by offering a more natural and gentle alternative to Redken’s range of hero haircare products.
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French connection
The RADIO Hair Artistic Team has created a collection of individual cuts and colours that are salon-friendly yet inspiring for the stylist – simplicity with an editorial twist
At the industrial-chic space of RADIO Hair Salon in Kings Cross, you never know what you might find. Yes, it’s a hair and beauty salon, but move the beauty table and you have a studio space to shoot, while the walls serve as a gallery space for art (and that’s a barista we spot!). When inspiration strikes, it’s pretty quick for the RADIO Hair Artistic Team to get their vision in
front of a photographer… So here is French Touch, which takes inspiration from the effortless style of Parisian women. Using the RADIO Hair Mapping Guide developed for the salon’s four brand new education courses, these techniques are concise and executed with ease. The haircuts mix strong shapes with texturising techniques, using channel cutting and deep point
cutting. The colours present bold placement with freehand detail to create a vivid impact with an effortless approach. “Redken Chromatics multidimensional hair colour allows us to produce a natural finish with incredible depth,” explains Corrado Tevere, RADIO Hair Salons’ cofounder, “and Shades EQ Gloss allows us to enhance the tone and definition for high shine.”
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BRIGHT IDEA
GET THE LOOK
Hair RADIO Artistic Team. Photography Holly Whittaker.
Zone 1 root 3/4 5rr, 1/4 4m 10vol Chromatics Smudged into Zone 2 5rr 20vol Smudged into 1/2 6cc, 1/4 5cr, 1/4 7cr 20vol For the detail: Flash 20vol, coloured with City Beats Magenta To book education with RADIO, visit radiohairsalon.com/courses
“Redken Chromatics multi-dimensional hair colour allows us to produce a natural finish with incredible depth” Corrado Tevere The Outliers 25
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Rise up
Photography by Harvey Williams-Fairley
YOUR SALON IS bustling, your stylists are busy with happy clients loving their work. Could now be the right time to expand your business? And what’s the secret to doing it all again at a new site or a revamped location? More than ever, salons can’t just rely on clients returning faithfully; they need to focus on growing their customer base all the time. It makes sense then to plot out that experience carefully. Salon Emotion, L’Oréal Professional Product Division’s business programme, breaks down the customer’s journey into key areas, helping salons to better understand their clients, enable them to embrace the digital change and to benefit their businesses. That digital footprint today is key – the new sample sachet initiative from Redken is designed to help drive consumers online after their salon visits. Exchange glowing
reviews and social snaps for personalised discounts and get a digital boost for your salon. Online reviews, social media optimisation and digital window displays will certainly go some way to keeping your social-savvy customers’ attention. Inside the salon it’s worth thinking about perfecting every client touchpoint to ensure the best possible experience. From a super-friendly welcome and dedicated service menus to fun and quirky shelf-talkers in an easy-tonavigate retail area with lots of opportunities to smell, touch and try the products. These salon brands have helped their clients feel welcomed, relaxed and empowered, immersed in a totally enjoyable experience, every time they visit – which is why they’ve all grown to meet demand! Discover exactly how they’ve supercharged their brilliant businesses…
The Chapel in Marlow, Buckinghamshire
Think you’re ready to grow your business further and expand? These blossoming salon brands share how they’ve opened new sites and curated a brilliant experience for clients
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Toby and Amanda Dicker, The Chapel @thechapelplace
“The aim was for the customer to feel the familiarity of the brand without needing the same decoration or space”
Toby Dicker
GROWING FROM ONE salon to six throughout the South East has kept The Chapel founders Toby and Amanda Dicker on their toes. “Going from one to two was the biggest challenge because you need a whole new mentality when it comes to delegation and management responsibility,” Toby admits. “You need to put in place systems and get the team following them as it’s simply impossible to be in two places at once. You can no longer have a control freak, hero mentality – that it’s only you that can make a difference.” Taking on properties as diverse they have – an old school house, a public house and church buildings for starters – the last thing Toby wanted to create was a set of carbon-copy salons: “Each property has its own unique feel, decoration and space. The aim was for the customer to feel the familiarity of the brand without needing the same decoration or space.” When it came to choosing a brand to pair with, Redken was the obvious choice. “We were looking for a product that had personality. Redken colour is so clever - it doesn’t make the hair look like one block colour, it allows the natural tones to come through,” explains Amanda. It’s important to remember that scaling up doesn’t mean expanding out. “Don’t do it unless you’re absolutely sure that the one you have running is maxed out,” Toby advises. “Originally we moved to be in the biggest property we could imagine needing – that allowed us to grow from five team members to 30. If you’re looking to expand, this is what I would always advise doing first.”
The Chapel in Marlow, Buckinghamshire
HOW TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS
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“We wanted a more relaxed environment, where clients could touch and try products”
This page: photography by Jo Hanley
Paul Bertram and Natalie Hamilton Chapter One Hair Spa @chapteronehair
Chapter One, Eskbank
Paul Bertram
WHEN THEIR FIRST salon was at maximum capacity after just one year, Chapter One Hair Spa’s co-founders Paul Bertram and Natalie Hamilton wanted to avoid putting together a group of completely new people before opening a second site in Edinburgh – keeping the brand’s culture consistent across both sites was key. It was also an opportunity to assess that areas of the salon were working hard. After taking part in a Salon Emotion workshop, Paul left with plenty of ideas on how to further finesse the client experience and maximise retail. The salons now sport digital screens in the window: “This means clients see Redken products before they’ve even walked in,” says Paul, and the reception and retail areas have been overhauled. “We wanted a more relaxed experience, where clients could touch and try products,” he says. And the impact has been “massive” – Paul cites an incredible 28 per cent rise in retail compared with the same point in 2018. His biggest piece of advice before branching out? “Before anything, I would say it’s essential to know your figures. Make sure that the fixed costs of the second site can be covered for a minimum of 12 months from the profit of the first salon.”
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HOW TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS
Rossanos Sligo
Rossanos Donegal
AS THE ROSSANOS group continues to expand throughout Ireland, keeping that connection with its branding has been a key factor in its success. “The Salon Emotion programme was updated last year and we sent two of our key members of staff on a course about it so that they could deliver the new updates back to our team. It’s important to have a system that works for all team members throughout our three salons, guaranteeing and delivering the elite standards that represents our brand,” explains Rosemary Danagher, group director. Rosemary has focused on keeping her staff passionate and educated with all of the most up-to-date techniques. “If your team doesn’t understand the importance of brands and the differences between them, all salons would be the same,” she insists. “As a brand we have to stand out in a crowd of fantastic salons – which is why we use Redken and recommend it to our clients. It’s extremely important that our clients trust our judgements on a day-to-day basis. Having that education, that knowledge and experience is crucial.”
Rossanos Ballyshannon
Rosemary Danagher Rossanos @rossanosgroup
“We have to stand out in a crowd of fantastic salons – which is why we use Redken”
Rosemary Danagher
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This page and opposite: photography by Andy Lane
Richard Wallace Richard Wallace Hair @richardwallacehair “EVERY SALON experience is broadly similar,” muses Richard Wallace, founder of Richard Wallace Hair in Solihull. “Creating the right emotions for our customers is the challenge. Building loyalty to the salon – not just the stylist – and ultimately making you the first choice for your clients is the goal.” Richard is a big believer in building brand loyalty – especially given he’s been with Redken ever since his first job at one of the first UK Redken salons. He believes it’s crucial to work with a brand that resonates with your own philosophy. For fledgling salons, he recommends ensuring that they establish the fundamentals from the get-go. “Create a price structure that allows you to reward your team for their efforts, but ensures you stay profitable,” he says. “Build a wage system that is simple, transparent and allows the team to grow. And finally, understand that the skills required to be a great stylist are not the same skills and knowledge you need to be a successful salon owner.” It’s this differentiation between salon owner and stylist which sees many salons struggle. Being the best stylist in the business is no guarantee that you’ll make a great salon or business owner. Learning these skills was a key turning point for Richard’s career: “The best piece of advice I ever received was to ‘get educated in business.’ I knew how to build a column and look after clients, but I didn’t have a clue about accounting, marketing, managing people and so on. “So I started to learn that side of the business and never looked back.”
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Caption here
HOW TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS
WANT TO BE A BUSINESS GENIUS? Get inspired with Redken’s Creative Business Consulting course, led by the inimitable Carolyn Sweeney. Twenty years ago she took that leap of faith to open her own salon – and steadily grew it into the team of 40 at Creations, Chichester, today. With her help, this four day programme for salon owners and managers is designed to help you lead, motivate and educate your team. Choose individual course dates, or book all four for 25 per cent discount – genius! Book at lorealaccess.com/uk. 5 June, 3 July, 31 July, 11 September
“Building loyalty to the salon – not just the stylist – and ultimately making you the first choice for your clients is the goal”
Want to learn how to refocus your customer experience and grow your business to future proof your salon? L’Oréal is hosting a 2019 Salon Emotion Roadshow across five UK cities. Contact your Redken sales consultant or email info.redken@loreal.com
Richard Wallace
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It’s a match
What makes a salon choose a brand partner? These businesses share why they switched and joined the loyal Redken tribe…
“PEOPLE ARE SHOWING ME a lot of American social media images as references, the majority of which were coloured with Redken so it seemed like the right time to transition over to the brand. The cost of products is also significantly less than our previous colour partner, which has boosted our cashflow dramatically. The support we get with Redken has been second to none – Redken is the first brand I have worked with in my many years of hairdressing that has made me feel appreciated. And Shades EQ has helped get my team motivated with colour again! It’s also brought down my colour spend due to how well the gel solution spreads through the hair – it’s amazing stuff.”
Rob Czlapka
Instagram @rcnq
Rob Czlapka RCNQ @rcnq
“Redken is the first brand I have worked with in my many years of hairdressing that has made me feel appreciated”
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ADVERTORIAL
Ricky Walters SALON 64 @salon64london
“The courses really help us to run our business and move forward”
Jason Taylor
KINKI BOUTIQUE Pixellated collection
“REDKEN IS A BRAND with a difference. Staying true to the vision of SALON64, I wanted to partner with like-minded individuals who are the experts in their field. Redken is constantly pushing boundaries in every way it can. There was also a huge demand from the SALON64 colour team to stock Shades EQ; I believe in listening to the experts I surround myself with. We select the best of what every brand has to offer and where other suppliers find this hard to understand, Redken loves our open-minded approach with an extremely understanding sales team.”
“Redken is constantly pushing boundaries in every way it can”
Ricky Walters
Jason Taylor KINKI BOUTIQUE @kinki_boutique_norwich_hair “WE CHOSE REDKEN because it is a premium brand that is well priced. It has a long history, good ethos and excellent ongoing training for staff as well as salon owners. Our last colour house wasn’t delivering on its training promises, and had a lack of customer care as its area reps kept changing. Redken helps us care for our clients’ hair through all aspects of the client journey – from backwash and treatments, to colour bonding, styling and finishing. The courses really help us to run our business and move forward, with new ideas and formulas that you would expect to come from a company that is in touch with its salons and clients – not just in the UK but globally, too.”
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Corrado Tevere RADIO London @radiobulletin “BEING A REDKEN flagship salon we have a close relationship with the brand’s team. We have regular meetings to give them feedback. The development of Redken’s colour products is constantly evolving, allowing us to be more inventive with our colour techniques and this is what interests our clients. The development of the product range and Redken’s modern approach to hair colour is in line with our craft and ethos – services such as the new Flash Lift Express Blonde in-salon service mean we can cater to our clients’ time restraints – and in turn we have more services to offer.”
“Our loyalty is all down to the science and technology behind the brand”
Leigharne Phillips
“The development of Redken’s colour products is constantly evolving, allowing us to be more inventive”
RADIO London Aura collection
RADIO London photography by Amy Cooke
Corrado Tevere
Leigharne Phillips The Hair Business Of Cowbridge @thehairbusiness.cowbridge “We have recommended Redken for many years, as an outstanding professional brand that never leaves the natural state of the hair compromised. Our loyalty is all down to the science and technology behind the brand – it has always stood out as a professional hairdressers’ product to go to and trust. I have always found that Redken has been on-hand when needed, and it provides excellent online and academy-based education. Every other year it holds the Redken Symposium in Las Vegas which is incredible. I would highly recommend any salon managers, team members or salon owners to go; it’s jammed with exciting education and it’s great to spend time with other like-minded and enthusiastic hairdressers from all over the world.”
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Instagram @kalonhairstudio, @mary_kalon_hair
ADVERTORIAL
Hannah Thomas Marzipan @marzipanhair “I’M YET TO FIND a brand better than Redken. In the 17 years I’ve worked with it, it’s constantly evolved to suit the market. I’m always excited to see what it is offering next – it consistently innovates with its product line and its support structure is second to none. Being a successful salon is not about volume of clients; it’s about creating a unique and positive experience, consistently. With every step I take in my business, Redken is there to support me, helping me to keep the team motivated and focused on the bigger picture.”
“With every step I take in my business, Redken is there to support me”
Hannah Thomas
“Redken has changed the way I see hairdressing”
Sarah James
Sarah James Kalon Salon @kalonhairstudio “REDKEN HAS CHANGED the way I see hairdressing, and after all the education I have had, including the Redken certified hair colourist qualification, I can safely say I feel in control and have complete faith in the brand. I strongly believe I could not achieve a lot of the desired custom tones that are the latest trends without Shades EQ Gloss. The ability to customise and make your own colours with this product means you have a full palette to work with. The formulas are endless and with the kind of condition and longevity I haven’t seen in any other brand.”
REDKEN.CO.UK
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REDKEN
REDKENUK
REDKENUKI
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A fine bromance Men are finally buying more products for themselves rather than simply swiping their partners’, and the grooming market is booming. Ensure your business is better set for the boys…
BEARDS AND BUZZCUTS are big business. According to the Local Data Company there has been a big jump in the number of new barber shops in the past five years. Leading up to October 2018, the number of shops rose by 25 per cent. From luxury wet shave establishments to buzzy local joints, to ignore the retail potential in men’s grooming could be your downfall. And men are doing it for themselves – buying products, that is. Salons up and down the country are noticing a growth in men interested in staying sharp. Here’s how to win at the grooming business…
Global revenues in male grooming are expected to reach $78 billion (£60bn) by 2023. According to research firm IMARC.
A Local Data Company survey shows a dramatic increase in barber shops in the five years leading up to October 2018, with the number of outlets jumping by 25 per cent.
Barbers are the largest growing retail category in the UK.
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MENS’ GROOMING
The Unisex Salon Johanne Herald Charles Worthington, Percy Street @charlesworthingtonsalons
“The range is uncomplicated but caters for all” Johanne Herald
FOR UNISEX SALONS like Charles Worthington, the surge in interest for men’s services and grooming ranges has definitely caused a stir. With a high percentage of male clients attending regularly, the brand has worked hard to make sure its pricing system and salon services are male inclusive. “When they receive a great cut or colour and see products work, they naturally want to use them at home,” explains Johanne Herald, senior master stylist at the Percy Street salon. “We encourage them in making their own choices, as opposed to just using what has been bought for them.” An in-depth, bespoke consultation makes all the difference when it comes to seeing an uptick in sales. Whether they have a buzzcut or shoulder-brushing locks, each client has a different level of care and attention that they dedicate to their routine – but that they’re in the salon at all tells you that they care about what they look like. Talking up Redken Brews has had a real impact: “It brings a smile to their face when they see it. The packaging is spot-on in terms of being simple and masculine with a fun twist on the link between the ingredients and the packaging. It realises perfectly that not one product suits all looks and requirements, so the range is uncomplicated but caters for all.” The Outliers 37
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ART - Craig headshot and Rush Academy
The High Street Hero Craig Teeder Rush Hair @officialrushhairbeauty
“A LOT OF COMPANIES are now taking the men’s demographic more seriously,” says Craig Teeder, Rush salon consultant and workshop team member. Working with salons up and down the country, Craig and his team believe the days of men just grabbing any old shampoo are over. “There is a lot more interest in how products will help their specific needs and keep their hair looking sharp all day,” he explains. With such a positive slant and interest from clients, the best thing that stylists can do is to know their products inside out. Male clients deal with all of the same problems as your female ones, from taming frizzy fringes to volumising lank quiffs. “It’s important to show men how to apply different products and how they’re going to help them create their desired style,” suggests Craig. “The consultation is the best time to find out any problems the clients are having with their hair, you’re able to see how they style their hair themselves. Talk about how a specific cut will work and which products it will need.” The look, scent and feel of a product can go a long way to winning over an already image-conscious client. There’s a fine line to tread between overly masculine, aggressive branding and too unisex to render the definition useless. Craig has seen a huge buzz around the malt-infused scent and new look of Redken Brews, particularly the trend-led yet problem-solving products such as the silver shampoo. “It’s a deeper, more steely silver, so is much more suited towards guys with naturally white/grey hair to remove unwanted yellow tones. It’s something men have never thought they needed to use but now can’t get enough of!”
“It’s important to show men how to apply different products and how they’re going to help them create their desired style”
Craig Teeder
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MENS’ GROOMING
John Keegan The Academy Barber @theacademybarber_ “TRADITIONALLY, WOMEN WOULD be the influencer or purchaser of their partner’s grooming products, but this has changed dramatically in the past few years,” says John Keegan, owner of The Academy Barber in Co. Kildare, Ireland. “Men ask for more recommendations now and are always open to professional advice on what’s best for them to use.” Getting the idea of introducing products to their at-home routine starts from the very beginning. “We incorporate products in our services, starting from backwash area discussing what shampoo we are using for them. Then during the consultation we’ll discuss styling products and their benefits. By including products in this way the client gets to hear your expert advice, see the product on display and then see the product doing as you described. This is the best way to assist product sales within the barber shop without being pushy or overly sales-y.”
“Men ask for more recommendations now and are always open to professional advice on what’s best for them to use”
WANT TO BECOME A BREWS MASTER? Ky Wilson leads the way @kycutwilson
John Keegan
The Barber
Products are becoming more accessible to the consumer, so finding a global men’s range with reliability like Redken Brews is essential to my day-to-day life. I’m very lucky to have the support from the guys at Brews, and can’t wait to see what this year has in store for all of us. The best thing about barbering and men’s hairdressing is that it’s always growing. I’ve met some of the raddest humans through this job and it pushes myself to progress in the right direction. I love the connection that our job brings between people, it’s pretty special. As we evolve, so too does men’s style. My go-to product from the Redken Brews range has to be the Stand Tough Gel. It’s a clear winner, it’s so versatile. Applying a small amount of Stand Tough Gel into damp hair and blow-drying it in gives you this incredible pliable base texture without flaking.
Interested in Ky Wilson’s new Redken Brews Masterclass? Read on…
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Learn from the masters
Redken is proud to present exclusive masterclass sessions hosted by some of the most inspiring names in hairdressing. Push yourself further to be the best you can be in 2019
Ky Wilson Wild Boyz
@kycutwilson Ky Wilson, owner of The Social and winner of Most Wanted Best New Salon, is on-hand to demonstrate male grooming as you’ve never seen it before! Ky combines his wealth of experience in barbering and men’s hairdressing with the latest innovations in Redken male grooming products. In his Look-and-Learn Masterclass you’ll cover the latest trends and techniques in men’s grooming, bespoke beard shapes and styles, as well as progressive ideas for cutting and finishing. You’ll leave feeling clued-up on what’s trending in men’s and inspired with new ways to attract and keep male clients in your salon.
When? 13 May, 7 October (London)
Samantha Cusick Balayage & Beyond
@samanthacusicklondon Talk about #HairGoals – Samantha Cusick has built a killer reputation (not to mention a thriving business) from creating gorgeous, glamorous hair that’s infinitely ’grammable. Samantha’s balayage has a touch of California summer, a hint of effortless Australian beach... all undeniably beautiful. In this specialist course she will share her best tips, tricks and techniques. Ideal for balayage newbies or those looking to perfect their freehand painting skills, the one-day session lays out everything clearly for you to create subtle, sun-kissed colour through to bolder, brighter balayage looks. Your commercial skills will rocket!
When? 20 May (London)
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ADVERTORIAL
Larry King
Jonathan Long
The Style Session
Trends. Techniques. Tools.
@larrykinghair
@jonnylockonego
When it comes to modern, effortless styling, does anyone do it better than Larry King? His clients are some of the most enviously stylish women in the world – Cara, Gigi, Karlie, we see you – and he regularly works with huge fashion brands and bibles such as GQ, Elle and Tatler. Larry is the go-to-guy for learning the best editorial and session techniques to transfer to the salon. So if you’re looking to take that leap backstage or behind the camera, then this is the class for you. Learn some of his favourite products, tips and tricks to bring back to the salon. Where you go next is up to you!
When? 29 April (London)
Lockonego co-founder Jonathan Long has spent the past 13 years helping his A-list clients achieve wearable, trend-led looks straight from his own work on shoots, shows and sets around the world. Taking your work from salon floor to sensational isn’t an easy leap to make but, luckily, Jonathan is an expert in combining classic techniques with a modern finish. From learning how to blow-dry like a master to upping your up-dos and transforming your tonging skills, this masterclass will help you to create showstopping finishes for clients that ensures they will keep coming back for more.
When? 18 March, 23 September (London)
Book your place and ensure you Learn Better, Earn Better, Live Best in 2019. Visit lorealaccess.com/uk REDKEN.CO.UK
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From salon to session Instagram @larrykinghair
Maintaining a set of regular clients is difficult when you’re jetting around the world for photoshoots. Meet some of the top artists who manage to balance life between backstage and backwash…
Rory McPhee Rory James Salon @rorymcphee How do you balance session and salon life?
It’s hard as session work can be very last minute, but I made the decision to spend Sunday to Thursday in London concentrating on session. That leaves me Fridays and Saturdays at my salon in Leeds, allowing me the freedom to do both. I have a great salon team that can cover my clients when needed if I do have jobs on my salon days. Having the ability to do this is a major benefit – sometimes certain jobs don’t come around more than once so you need to take them.
Larry King Larry King Salon @larrykinghair What are your top tips for balancing salon and session work?
I always try to build a great relationship with my clients and it’s fundamental to me that they feel they’re as important as any session work that comes in. Generally I’ll open up space so that everyone still gets seen as quickly as possible and they don’t feel inconvenienced. This does, of course, mean that I work really, really long hours sometimes – but the bonus is I get to enjoy both session and a loyal client base.
Do you find that they overlap at all?
Session can be very helpful to salon life, particularly with styling. A lot of session work requires quick turnarounds, so you learn all the tricks and techniques to do this. These are great for the salon as then you can more easily give your client the option to have a different look at the end of a regular service.
What products do you always have backstage?
Redken Fashion Waves 07 Sea Salt Spray, Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam, Outshine 01 Anti-Frizz Polishing Milk, Fashion Work 12 Versatile Hairspray and the new Redken Brews Hairspray.
It’s about taking the small aspects you learn on shoots and on the catwalk; taking creativity and applying it to clients so they feel like their style is ever-changing. It’s also important for my salon team to see trend aspects taken from session and brought back into the salon. I take assistants from the salon with me to all my session work on rotation so they gain experience at that level.
What are your favourite session products?
Redken Full Effect 04 All-Over Nourishing Mousse, because it provides a great base without tacky residue, and Wind Blown 05 Dry Finishing Spray for texture.
Instagram @rorymcphee
Headshot by Amy Cooke
How do you make session work relevant to everyday salon life?
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Kazumi collection
SALON TO SESSION
Paul Percival Percy & Reed @paulpercivalhair What are your top tips for balancing the salon with session work?
I am passionate about my session work, and for most of my career that has taken priority. However, since I started the salons with Adam Reed, the one thing I have really learned is that if there are clients booked in, it needs to be something really important to make you move them. Salon clients have made time in their worlds to come in and get their hair done, so it can really put them out if you cancel at the last minute.
Mark McCauley Kazumi @kazumi_hair_salon What are the challenges of having a salon and a session life?
The only work I do outside of the salon is Redken education and session work for a number of bands. This means some weeks you could be working seven days, and of course you also have to factor in travel times. Time management is a challenge, so knowing your dates months in advance helps. Working as a Redken educator makes it easy to integrate all of the systems and innovative new techniques into the salon.
How do you make session work relevant to everyday salon life?
There is always a more wearable version of any style or colour. It’s just about translating that look for the client.
Which products are always in your kit bag?
Redken Dry Shampoo Powder 02. It quickly cleans a model’s hair, but gives enough hold that I can get a great undone texture without leaving hair feeling dull. My other must-have is the fantastic Wind Blown 05 Dry Finishing Spray. It’s amazing for creating waves but also if you mist through it makes hair-up so much easier. It’s a brilliant all-rounder.
What are your top tips for artists looking to transition into session work from the salon?
Learn your craft to the highest standard you can, and always be prepared to keep learning. Don’t believe the hype, thinking “I AM A GOLDEN GOD!” You are not. Don’t take yourself too seriously, let your work do the talking – but above all, love what you do.
Which Redken products can’t you live without? There are too many to mention, but Rough Paste 12 Working Material and the Redken Extreme range are must-haves.
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Time to thrive This page: photography by Simon Burt. Opposite page: photography by Andy Lane
Many high street businesses are facing challenging times, but these local hero salons are stronger than ever
“We’ve had a solid relationship with Redken for years, with endless training options”
Craig Chapman Hair Design, Launceston @craigchapmansalon FOR CRAIG AND his team down in Launceston in Cornwall, social media is both a blessing and a burden when it comes to clients. “On the positive side, we get exposure we wouldn’t otherwise get, but on the challenging end of the scale, people’s expectations have soared and some believe we can give them a ‘filtered’ look in real life,” he muses. “Makeovers take skill, time, knowledge and experience; they can’t be done in an hour’s walk-in appointment. And a lot of
Craig Chapman
celebrity looks are actually wigs!” His team is constantly working hard to educate their customers and offer a clearer understanding of cost, time and techniques needed to give them #Instaready looks. “We have had a solid relationship with Redken for years, with endless in-salon training options and product support for all our out of salon work.” These training and support capabilities have helped the team’s
potential to flourish and diversify: “We’re now probably known for the work we do outside of the salon as much as in!” Craig says, referring to his Hairdotcom agency that offers hairdressers outside of London the chance to work on big name projects. “We’ve looked after the hair for The Voice UK for the past three years, and parts of other shows such Britain’s Got Talent, The X Factor, Guess the Star and so on. Working in other sectors of the hair world is a driving force for our team.”
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LOCAL HEROES
Ministry of Hair, Eastbourne @ministryofhairsalon AT MINISTRY OF HAIR, owner Toby Meyer has made sure his salon is hitting back against the home hair experience by offering consistently excellent customer service. And Redken has been there since the beginning. “When I first opened, in 1997, I was looking for a brand that motivated my vision,” explains Toby. “Redken was it – leading the way in professional colour, backwash treatments, styling and homecare retail ranges.” Now in its 22nd year of business, five team members have been there for more than 20 years. There’s a family feel to the salon that helps it stand apart. “It’s no longer enough to just bring your hair A-game,” Toby insists. “You have got to bring it to customer service. Excite your clients and get them thinking about their next appointment before they leave. “Go back to basics and remember the little things, all the parts of their visit: from the meet and greet, their refreshments, the backwash experience and so on. From a quick fringe trim to a colour restyle, make all of the parts of their visit special – and all about service.” His team embraces the digital age to keep clients satisfied: “Ask to use your client’s phone to film while you’re styling their hair, offering tips that they can take home like their own personal YouTube video, so they don’t need to search any further than their own amazing stylist.”
“When I first opened, in 1997, I was looking for a brand that motivated my vision. Redken was it – leading the way in professional colour, backwash treatments, styling and homecare retail ranges”
Toby Meyer
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This page and opposite: photography by Andy Lane
Neo Hairdressing, London @neohairdressing AT NEO HAIRDRESSING, monitoring client feedback online is a key focus to keep them top of the game. “As hairdressers we can go round and round in circles about why we don’t get more clients, but we’re more interested in getting on with attracting new clients,” says owner Nico Neo. “We’ve found it’s a combination of the online presence and reviews – and you can’t have one without the other. People might be able to find you, but don’t know if you’re any good, or they hear you’re good but can’t find any information about you online. That’s where the majority of our new business comes from. Bad reviews can seriously damage business and I still can’t believe
there are so many top salons that don’t try and correct it, or at least respond to reviews. It’s shocking.” Neo has stepped up its appeal locally and the team regularly sharpens its skills with Redken’s varied training options. “Redken’s training is second-to-none. Our stylists always come back inspired and motivated.” Keeping a competitive edge is key, and Nico’s attention is wholly focused on making sure his team are competing with salons across the capital, not just his local area: “We really try to keep abreast of all the service quirks you would find in a top West End salon. From online booking to branded crockery and refreshments – we try to keep up.”
“Redken’s training is second-to-none. Our stylists always come back inspired and motivated”
Nico Neo
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LOCAL HEROES
“Our collaboration with Redken has always been on the basis of using the best products to deliver the best hair service”
John Hession
John Nicholas, Chesterfield @johnnicholashair ADAPTING QUICKLY to trends and shifting retail patterns has been a key factor in the success of John Hession’s Chesterfield salon. “The industry changes and we always have to adapt to remain competitive,” he insists. “We constantly invest in the latest technology, new products and techniques to ensure that we always offer the highest quality of service and care to all our customers.” By focusing on staff training and investment, John feels secure in the knowledge that he is offering a top-notch service that sees customers return in droves. “Our collaboration with Redken has always been on the basis of using the best products to deliver the best hair service on the market. In two decades we have built on customer trust,” he explains. “We make every effort necessary to understand our customers’ needs and develop a great relationship. “This relationship is built on trust, which allows us to be creative and offer a personalised service tailored to every client’s needs.” The Outliers 47
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2019 Redken Symposium
All the world’s a stage What does it take to become a Redken Artist?
Rory McPhee Rory James Salon @rorymcphee
Kelly Scott Strands Hairdressing @kel_scott
Toby Meyer Ministry of Hair @tobymeyereducation
What sets Redken Artists apart?
What defines a Redken artist?
What are Redken Artists all about?
Is there a typical day for you?
What does it mean to you to be a Redken Artist?
“The brand has a wealth of amazingly talented Redken Artists all consistently trained to the highest standards by experts in this field. This means their audiences will always get the most out of every Redken presentation.” “My days can be very different – but that’s what I love. I can start the week working on a music video and by Friday I can be back working in my salon in Leeds with my clientele. This variety makes every day exciting and fresh.”
“We’re professional hair stylists that have a passion and dedication for education. We help others learn better! As a brand, Redken attracts like-minded people and we really believe in our motto: ‘Learn Better, Earn Better, Live Best!’”
“Working for Redken has been something I’ve always wanted to do. In my first week as a trainee I did a product knowledge class and loved it. From then on my mission was to become a global Redken Artist.”
“To become a Redken Artist you have to go through a huge amount of training. We are a big family with the same philosophy: it’s all about the learner, the attending delegate, it’s not about us.”
What’ve been your highlights?
“I have met so many amazing people, gone to incredible countries and venues, taught in New York, as well as enjoyed a wealth of personal development. But if I were to choose one it would be being picked to be part of Redken’s Symposium in Las Vegas.”
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HOW TO BE A REDKEN ARTIST
Reliving the Las Vegas Redken Symposium 2019 with Chris Moody @chrismoodyhair
Thursday 16 January – Redken Artist briefing
The briefing is the first time we all get to meet up together – more than 100 artists from all over the world and some of us may not have seen each other since the last event two years ago. This is where the real excitement begins.
Friday 17 January – prep day and pep rally
An early start as teams meet their models and rehearse their stages. Friday evening is the pep rally where we celebrate the success of the previous year. 2018 saw all of Redken grow, so lots to live up to this year.
Sunday 19 January – Grand Opening in the Main Arena
Monday 20 January – education in class and onstage
We had 600 tickets available for our first class, The SuperStar Educator, and it completely sold out. The recognition for in-salon education is well established and although people have some amazing content to share they are looking for guidance on how best to share it. Monday afternoon I was back on stage again for The Exchange Experience, where we try to bring our New York academy experience to the attendees at the Symposium. This stage had much more of an educational flavour, with cut, colour and styling demonstrations along with hands-on workshops.
Tracey Cunningham
Redken Symposium is always launched with our Grand Opening, a two-hour hair
extravaganza combining trends, avantgarde hair and theatre. This year it was off the scale. The theme was to represent NYC after dark, in all its guises. 10,000 salon professionals watched as more than 100 models performed across several scenes, including aerial acrobatics, fire dancing, jazz, lounge and burlesque.
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Shades EQ
Los Angeles, California
– Tracey’s home
Q&A
On the spot with Tracey Cunningham Quick-fire questions with Redken’s queen of celebrity colour
@Traceycunningham1
Instagram @traceycunni ngham1
Home is… Los Angeles, California What’s one thing people might be surprised to learn about you? I love a great showtune to sing along to – loudly!
Your favourite hair decade? There’s no time like the present! We’re so lucky with all we have at our disposal right now – so much product innovation for us colourists to push the limits.
My favourite colour is… Black. The hair colourist’s uniform.
What’s your biggest extravagance? Spoiling my cats and the people I love.
If you could travel anywhere, where would you go? I love the heat, so somewhere tropical with a beach, like the Maldives.
What do you collect? Cats and handbags.
If you hadn’t got into hair, what would you have done? There was no alternative for me.
The Maldives
Staying out or staying in? I travel so much for work that a night in with Netflix is my favourite. It all changed for me when… My thenemployer, Bette Midler, made me go to beauty school after I was a nanny for her daughter, Sophie. We’re lifelong friends!
Weirdest phobia? I’m a germaphobe. I recently bought two birthday cakes for a colleague so that she could blow out the candles on one, and eat the other.
Favourite colour technique? Babylights and using Redken Shades EQ on all of my clients – the best for condition and shine. When are you visiting the UK? Soon! Keep an eye on Redken’s Instagram page. Best piece of advice you’ve ever received? Never stop learning! Always educate yourself to better your work. Trust me, don’t ever… Say it can’t be done. The Queen of colour is coming to the UK to share her Shades EQ secrets – stay tuned to @redken to find out more
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All rights reserved. 2019
@biancabernat, @djeduarte, @chihartley, @brizzy_chen, @vargaloredanam, @emmadelury, @ajol_llama
30USEDYEARS OF A REDKEN ICON. BY IT LIST COLORISTS FOR A-LIST RESULTS Shades EQ Gloss offers demi-permanent color without lifting hair. Perfect to gloss, refresh, cover grays, tone, correct and color - all with a sheer result. Our unique acidic gel formula respects the integrity of the hair adding intense shine and condition. #GlossLikeaBoss #ShadesEQ #Redken
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