A/W18
A F O T I A R PORT
S S E C PRO
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A VISION OF THE FUTURE PAUL MITCHELL HAS DRAWN ON THE FULL WEIGHT OF THE BRAND’S 20-YEAR COLOUR HISTORY TO ENVISION THE TRENDS AND COLOURS OF TOMORROW. WANT AN INSIGHT INTO COLOUR’S POTENTIAL IN THE NEXT 20 YEARS? LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THE BRAND’S 20/20 COLLECTION, PUT TOGETHER BY TRUE HAIR AND COLOUR STARS
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COLIN CARUSO JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR
With colour innovation at the heart of his work, it’s no surprise that Colin grew up colouring his friends’ hair in his parents’ basement, before turning that passion into a life-long career.
HEATHER KAANOI JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
A once-in-a-lifetime scholarship opportunity from Angus Mitchell launched her career more than 10 years ago. Now she’s busy jetting across the world as a top educator.
THE FORECASTERS
HAND-SELECTED FOR THEIR INDIVIDUAL SKILL AND CREATIVITY BY PAUL MITCHELL’S ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR, COLIN CARUSO, THIS DYNAMIC COLLECTIVE OF ARTISTS WORKED TOGETHER TO DIVINE THE FUTURE What a way to celebrate a colourful legacy! The Paul Mitchell 20/20 Collection draws on some of the brand’s key turning points and the influence of its idol artists, including Robert Cromeans, Scott Cole and Linda Yodice. Seeking to create fresh results from classic techniques, the team built on the foundations of those who came before them to strive toward the future.
RYAN BELMONTE JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTIST
A passion for fashion and music led Ryan to a career in hairdressing nearly 11 years ago. His time behind the chair is just one of his creative outlets, alongside DJing and clothing design.
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IRENE TOLEDO JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTIST
Working and travelling alongside some of the best artists in the world has given Irene an extraordinary education, embracing every opportunity to share her passion with fellow stylists and educators.
JASON REYES JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL TRAINER AND ARTIST
Known for his barbering and cutting, he’s been busy developing an essential barbering curriculum and the new MVRCK line, launching in the UK in 2019.
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JULIAN PERLINGIERO GUEST ARTIST
An experienced salon owner, stylist and educator, Julian is passionate about sharing his knowledge and experience with hairdressers around the world. FERNIE ANDONG JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTIST
Perhaps best known as Fern the Barber for his incredible skills and social media presence, Fernie has been a real influence in developing the new MVRCK barbering line, launching in the UK in 2019.
NOOGIE THAI JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Noogie oversaw the styling of the cuts to create the cohesive, cutting-edge vibe that completes the looks.
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CHELSEA LITCHFIELD JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL TRAINER AND ARTIST
A love of fine art led Chelsea into the hair industry, and it continues to influence her artful approach to dimensional colour and precision cutting.
“STYLING INSPIRATION FOR THE 20/20 COLLECTION CAME FROM MY DESIRE TO BRING A TOUCH OF CELEBRITY GLAM TO DAILY STYLE. FROM JULIA ROBERTS’ PERFECT VOLUME TO JENNIFER LAWRENCE’S UNDONE BOB, YOU CAN ACHIEVE AN ELEMENT OF THAT IN EVERYDAY WEAR WEAR” NOOGIE THAI 13/09/2018 15:52
Colourist Ryan Belmonte Haircutter Chelsea Litchfield Stylist Noogie Thai Inspired by fashion and art, this look reinterprets a predictable print and twists it for an ultra-modern take on a classic. Bordeaux and forest green blend to create surprisingly harmonious shades and tones, while the undone waves show off the skill of the colour placements. There’s no hiding from how cool this looks.
HERE’S TO THE NE XT 20 YEARS
THE 20/20 COLLECTION IS THE PERFECT BLEND OF PAST AND PRESENT, CREATIVITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP. IT’S A DIFFICULT BALANCE TO TREAD, BUT THE SALON-READY RESULTS SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES
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Colourist Colin Caruso Haircutter Jason Reyes Stylist Noogie Thai Unexpected colour stays sophisticated, thanks to careful balayage techniques to infuse depth and ribbons of light in the hair. Muted tones keep things from veering into anything too ‘in your face’, while the placement perfectly mimics the looping luminescence of the Northern Lights. This look is the essence of understated yet impactful colour.
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Colourist Heather Kaanoi Haircutter Julian Perlingiero Stylist Noogie Thai This blend of jewel tones is the perfect pick to intensify a statement-making head of curls. The mixture of violettinged hues is offset by icy mint to expose the different colour intensities and create this amethyst diffusion. Channel Solange Knowles for her bold styling and shapely curls, while remaining true to the hair’s natural textures.
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Colourist Irene Toledo Haircutter Fernie Andong Stylist Noogie Thai This show-stopping flash of golden copper, offset against a blend of rich reds, is like a solar flare to re-ignite your passion for short shapes and intense colours. Inspired by Block Colouring, the use of diagonal patterns gives a seamless blend at the scalp while Paul Mitchell’s classic tape cutting technique keeps things sharp.
In detail! Find video inspiration and the full collection at salon-success.co.uk
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The future is… wide open “There’s a level of enthusiasm for hair colour from clients like never before. As a kid, I remember colouring my hair to stand out, now people are colouring their hair to fit in” Colin Caruso
The future is… in demand “Today, even 10-year-old kids have pops of colour in their hair. Imagine 20 years later, and now that 30-year-old is going to be devoted to the salon and will expect hair colour” Heather Kaanoi
The future is… personalised “Everything around us is becoming more bespoke and less cookie-cutter in style. In the future, guests will have more to say in their hair colour and be more open to doing things differently – more individualised” Ryan Belmonte
The future is… bold “More colours are being accepted, creating more styling flexibility and business opportunity. In the future, I see a shift from natural colours to bolder colours” Jason Reyes
WHAT IS THE FUTURE OF COLOUR?
The future is… bright “Every day, more and more of my guests are stepping outside of their comfort zone and requesting visually stimulating colour. There will be a greater understanding and appreciation for expressing your personality through your hair” Irene Toledo
The future is… expected “Colour is going to be expected with every single service. In the future, guests will feel odd not having colour in their hair” Fernie Andong
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR OR TO REQUEST THE FULL ANNIVERSARY BOOK WITH DETAILED METHODS OF HOW TO RECREATE EACH OF THE LOOKS, CALL SALON SUCCESS ON 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK/PROFESSIONAL-HAIR-COLOUR
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Sharing techniques, personal stories, formulas and more, meet our Guest PAINTERS, online this season
creativeheadmag.com/paint 2018
ZOE IRWIN TAYLOR TAYLOR LONDON LIBERTY WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT AND MOST WANTED CREATIVE TALENT 2018 ROBERT EATON RUSSELL EATON SALONS WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK & IRELAND TECHNICAL DIRECTOR
CLAYDE BAUMANN D&J AMBROSE WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
REAL COLOURISTS WITH REAL CHALLENGES AND REAL SOLUTIONS TO EVERYDAY LIFE IN A BUSY BRITISH SALON. ONLY ON PAINT!
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/PAINT
Joico Laboratories Europe B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond the Netherlands Hair & Color: JOICO Artists
#LIVETHEBLONDELIFE www.joico-blondelife.com
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LIVE THE BLONDE LIFE Lightening & Brightening System Full-service blonding from salon to home – gold or platinum style • JOICO Blonde Life products are specifically created to make – and keep! – your clients light & bright. • Up to five levels of even lift through 60 minutes, while protecting the health and integrity of each and every strand without using a bleach. (refers to NEW Blonde Life Hyper High Lift Permanent Crème Color) • Up to 9+ levels of fast-acting lift (refers to Blonde Life Lightening Powder) For more information call 0845 071 2326
W E N
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THIS IS
CONTENTS
OUR MISSION IS TO CELEBRATE COLOUR AND THE ARTISTS CREATING IT – AND TALK FRANKLY ABOUT WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE SALON AND ONLINE
PAINTERS
We quiz our colourist collective
08
14 COLOUR BY NUMBERS 24 MATCH GAME 08 30 WHEN SOPHIA MET LARISA 42 PAINTBOX 46 EDUCATION 48 EVENTS 49 OPINION 50 14 THE FORECAST
The season’s hottest new trends
The hair colour customer landscape
How do you choose your perfect colour partner?
42
Do great colourists think alike?
Make your colour kit the best it can be
Get to class and boost your knowledge
Bask in competition glory
40
Sarah Black on an Instagram dilemma
EDITOR Amanda Nottage ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal ART Graeme White DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann CONTRIBUTORS Beth Davie, Deborah Murtha, Alison Rowley, Anna Samson CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood ADVERTISING Laura Tucker PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock PAINT is a supplement of Creative HEAD. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission from the publisher. All information is correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.
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COLOUR IT. STYLE IT. OWN IT.
“With Rusk colour mousse you can quickly and easily achieve an on-trend look with no commitment. It lets you have fun by adding bold, bright statement shades, leaving your client with a daring new look lasting up to three washes.” Katie Mulcahy, Rusk UK Colour Ambassador – Most Wanted Colour Expert 2015
Stay inspired!
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Đž s e u Q me
AINTERS! P T N E ID S E R RAINS OF OUR B E H T K IC P G.COM/PAINT A M D A E H E IT’S TIME TO IV ON CREAT FOLLOW THEM
Q: Thanks to Instagram, there’s a real demand for balayage biscuit blondes that are cool but with a little warmth. Clients love them, but many colourists struggle to get the tones and the blend just right. What techniques do you suggest? A: The most important part of creating a biscuit blonde is to not overdo it with too many colours in the hair, and not to go too light, either. Work with the natural hair and add lighter pieces to create movement. A nice idea for a good blend is to add babylights on the top layer. Micro-ďŹ ne weaves will help blend the top section to look more sunkissed. Think about where the sun hits the hair most at summer, the top layer and around the hairline, so adding babylights there will give you that perfect blend and natural glow.
h s i F y m A
LARRY KING SALON
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n a m e l o C Casey CHAIR SALONS
Q: You started #PatchTestParty on social media. How do you encourage current clients and new ones who walk in and want colour instantly to have a patch test? A: The #PatchTestParty is a way for you to make skin testing both fun and appealing for your clients. It’s a requirement from colour companies to skin test all clients, so the initiative is basically a template for you to be creative with a task you’re required to carry out. I offered all clients 10 per cent or £10 off of their next colour bill if they came into the salon and got skin tested within one set month, and I saw nearly 100 people come in just to get skin tested, and almost a third of them were new clients! However, this doesn’t mean you can’t just throw one big party/client evening in the salon. Send out invitations, advertise it on social media as well as in your salon window to boost numbers. Offer free gift bags, hand out glasses of bubbly and make it appealing for everyone attending! The initiative has boosted our sales and retail figures,
so it definitely helps business! Walk-ins who want colour on the spot? I only ever offer skin tests and explain to them why it’s so important. What’s worth more, a new client and their potential repeat business, or risking safety by colouring without precaution? We are professionals after all, so our opinion should be valued more than an urgent appointment.
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Ja о Gray KARBON KYD
n l i H a i S h NOT ANOTHER SALON
Q: With 2019 around the corner, education will be on everyone’s minds. How can a salon manager or an individual colourist ensure they’re attaining the right skills if they’re on a tight budget? A: I always think, first educate the educator. Let it start from you and get yourself prepped and ready. Prior preparation shows leadership and gains respect. When you are on a tight budget, most people think they can’t educate themselves and bring the team up to speed! As an educator for more than 25 years, I’ve learned to stay ahead by constant research and pushing myself. Try researching online trend reports and techniques. What are the colours of the season, and how do they translate into your salon? Then set a task to your team, get them to create a moodboard and divide the content between commercial and fashion. The next step would be to set up a workshop and set the task of creating a look. This would be based on technique and colour choice. If the majority are cutters or stylists; the same task can be set around shape and styling that would complement every colour service. It’s easy to educate on a shoestring once you really put your mind to it.
A: As much as many of us want to invest in our education, the low income of our trade often makes it difficult to make the right choices. I honestly believe you can always find the money to improve yourself and no matter what you spend, you WILL get it back. But when two stylists sit next to each other in a class, one on £40k a year and the other on £20k, the investment of the £20k stylist is double that of the other student. Because of that, I’ve launched Not Another Academy’s first ‘equal opportunity’ pricing courses. This means we will price according to the student’s earnings. Dramatic reductions are made if you are on a low income or minimum wage. At night, when I’m supposed to be falling asleep, I think about these things: how long it used to take me to save up for a course I wanted to go on so desperately. And so I came up with a way that gives those that need it an extra leg up. Education is life-changing; we’re just trying to help everyone see how life-changing it can be. 2018
2018
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After Before
Q: So many colour clients use box colour root touchup kits because they’re worried about the cost of coming into the salon in-between their main colour appointments. How can we help without them using box colours? A: This really comes down to a couple of factors: Plan – map out their future appointments including cost. I like to work in blocks of three, a complete colour overhaul, which involves a bigger financial outlay, then two more economical, appointments to refresh/ retouch. This allows clients to budget and also the chance to review and change the colour every few months. It shows the client that every time they visit it isn’t going to break the bank, making it more appealing to come in. It also gives them an option, when money’s tight. Tailor – try to create a tailor-made look for everybody. It generates loyalty, increased revenue and makes my day a lot more enjoyable. To achieve this, consultation
is so important and a key way to manage this problem. Don’t just find out what the client is going to let you do, find out how often they can come, how long does their hair last for before they need it done again and so on. The answers to these questions are what will help you to help them. The perfect colour is about creating something that is sustainable and works for the client’s lifestyle. Prescribe – give your clients the tools they need to make their colour look better for longer. Shampoo, conditioner and the latest innovation, temporary root touch-up sprays. Get your clients investing in these rather than box dyes and you’re winning the battle.
l l a g D c Paddy M RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
See tonnes more from our PAINTERS online at creativeheadmag.com/paint PAINT | 11
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Gilty pleasure WHETHER IT’S ROSE GOLD, SILVER, BRONZE OR SOMETHING MORE PLAYFUL, YOU CAN SATISFY YOUR COLOUR CLIENT’S LUST FOR INSTA-WORTHY MOLTEN TONES WITH REVLON PROFESSIONAL’S GLAMSQUAD COLLECTION AND NEW REVLONISSIMO SATINESCENT
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IT’s a metaLLic makeoVEr!
Encourage your clients to book in for a Revlonissimo Satinescent metallic colour appointment, and they’ll receive a Revlon Ultra HD Matte Metallic Lipcolor in a complementary shade, completely free! There are six shades to choose from for a marvellous metallic match. We love Rose Peach, #justsaying
FROM SEDUCTIVE, SHIMMERING silvers to pretty pastels dancing in the light of a pearlescent finish, hair colour magpies are succumbing to their obsession for all things metallic. It’s a colour trend that racks up the likes on Instagram, and clients in salons are determined to make such tools their own. You can satisfy their chromatic cravings by sharing A/W18’s coolest trends with the Revlon Professional Glamsquad Collection, using a new colour that delivers molten metallics that mirror no other! The Glamsquad Collection is more than a group of gorgeous, client-covetable images; it illustrates a commitment to a new culture that is teeming with possibilities, a world in which every woman – guided expertly by her hair stylist – discovers the power to design the image she wants to project. This is delivering beautiful hair, yes; but it’s also delivering empowerment and self-confidence, and you’re putting your client in their own driving seat. Three key looks depict a new, more technological interpretation of feminine beauty: functional, urbane, innovative and with a hint of the avant-garde, they form a flawless, dynamic image of a woman who shines in her creative freedom like never before. Metal-influenced tones and high sheen metallic finishes cause a sensation during the day and add a fresh, sophisticated finish at night. These luxurious metallic tones combine to blur the boundaries of perception and create stunning light effects… and while offering an infinite variety of tone options to ensure her look is modern and on trend. The key ingredient is new Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Satinescent, the latest in reactive hair colour technology and a launch that delivers sophisticated, metallic results with a soft satin finish. Six new shades – Midnight Blue, Khaki Bronze, Deep Pearl, Antique Rose, Mauve Glacé and Smoky Silver – create a three-dimensional result that tones cold and warm reflects, and can be used to capture translucent or intense effects. And, of course, these fabulous finishes are captured all while ensuring high-quality colour that lasts and beautiful care for her hair, thanks to the Colorsmetique Care System from Revlon Professional. Gleaming, gorgeous and glittering. These are true metallic shades that deliver the gilty goods. Perfect for your client’s own Glamsquad, right? No filter necessary; not when you’ve got shimmering shades from Revlonissimo Satinescent by Revlon Professional. Luxe hair has never looked so lustrous…
Capture the magic of Revlonissimo Satinescent and the Glamsquad Collection in your salon. Call 020 7391 7440 or visit revlonprofessional.co.uk PAINT | 13
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Simone Rocha
Preen
Katie Eary
Marc Jacobs
t s a c e f e Th G FUTURE THE CATWALKS ARE INSTRUMENTAL IN SHAPIN TO THE COLOUR TRENDS – FROM THE CLOTHES WORN HAIR. MAKE-UP SHADES CHOSEN AND, OF COURSE, THE SLY EOU AND NOW CLIENTS SEE THESE HUES INSTANTAN READY ON SOCIAL MEDIA, MEANING YOU NEED TO BE TO USE TO DELIVER. WE ASKED TOP HAIR COLOURISTS THE THREE THEIR FORECASTING KNOW-HOW TO PICK OUT E THIS TOP TRENDS THAT ARE GOING TO BE EVERYWHER WELCOME SEASON. GET YOUR MIXING BOWL READY, AND IN THE NEW SEASON…
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palmer//harding Longshaw Ward at On|Off Jeremy Scott Marc Jacobs
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Jeremy Scott
Jack Irving at On|Off
Eudon Choi
Mark Fast
A/W18
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Anne Veck
Affinage
THE TREND GEMSTONES
SEE more from this shoot at creativeheadmag.com/paint
Bad Apple Hair
Anne Veck
Bejewelled
Mark Fast
PRODUCTS (from left) RUSK Colour Mousse, TIGI copyright©olour activators, JOICO Color Intensity Pearl Pastel Collection, Manic Panic Pastelliser and Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal Dusted Rouge
As the weather cools, it’s time to raid your jewellery box and pull out glittering tones and crystallised colours for inspiration. “This season’s gem hues are a treasure trove for colourists,” explains Anne Veck, whose latest collection, Precious, is inspired by semiprecious stones. “It means we have a huge, dynamic palette of colours to play with.” There’s a great spectrum of shades, starting with rich jewel tones and moving through to light, iridescent colours. “This season we will see multiple crystal tones worked into blonde hair for a subtly colourful finish,” says Jenny Pelter, technical director at Westrow Artistic Team. “With baby blonde, silver or white roots, blending effortlessly into subtle and gentle frosted pastel tones – think rose quartz crystal and amethyst purple – this look is an easy way to delicately dip into the pink trend with minimal commitment.” Importantly, gemstone colours need to be reflective. “This is a shimmering, understated option rather than the full-on global colours that we’ve seen of late, it’s a pretty gemstone effect that can work with any depth of colouring,” says Katie Mulcahy, RUSK UK brand ambassador. “Blondes can opt for opal tones, pinks, mints, and lilac hues, while jade and emerald hues work best with darker skin tones.” Tom O’Brien, co-director of Baroque Hair agrees that more lavish tones are the future. “Expect more amethyst, rose gold and buttery blonde and let your clients get ready to shine. For extra effect add crystal hairgrips to finish,” he says. PAINT | 15
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Paul Mitchell The Demi
THE TREND METALLICS
Affinage
Revlon Professional
Great Lengths
TIGI
Heavy metals
PRODUCTS (from left) Affinage Infiniti Metallics, Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Satinescent, L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Metals, Guy Tang’s #mydentity
Temperley London
Bronze, silver and gold are picking up medals for a second season running, as more clients are choosing polished tones. “Metallic colours which make a strong fashion statement have become a big trend recently, and this can be seen across make-up, catwalk trends and, of course, hair,” says Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional. “While placing small accents of grey and silver in hair has been a popular approach, the look now is about going big and bold, with a full head of metallic colour.” “For this trend we would use our fusion technique,” explain Dylan Brittain and Suzie McGill of Rainbow Room International. “We create a fusion of block colour, by choosing hues which are close together in depth and tone. The colour transitions are seamless but powerful and can essentially make any regular cut stand out from the crowd. It’s all about layering and cooling – perfect for the metallic trend.” But, as with precious metals, it’s important to keep the hair polished and well looked after, so they can shine bright. “Getting the best out of this trend all depends what the client does at home,” says John Spanton, director of colour at Trevor Sorbie. “Metallic colours in particular will dull after just one week without the right homecare. Colour shampoo and conditioners are a must but it’s also important to keep the hair really healthy. Bond-building products such as Olaplex and L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond should be introduced. Then using oils and shine sprays will help keep the hair and colour looking its best shiny self!” 16 | PAINT
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Paul Mitchell
Goldwell
Linton & Mac Andrew Jose
Warm embers Westrow
PRODUCTS (from left) L’Oréal Professionnel Botanēa, Goldwell Pure Pigments, Redken Color Gels Lacquers, Wella Profesisonals Koleston Perfect
Malan Breton
Fashion images courtesy of BaByliss PRO, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Redken, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals
THE TREND FLAME SHADES
With autumn shades returning such as sumptuous reds and rich browns, colour palettes are becoming warmer and burning bright. “Copper hair always comes back to us every year during the autumn months, especially for brunettes,” says Steph Peckmore, group colour director of Bad Apple Hair. “Mahogany and violet-based coppers will give our favourite trend an interesting twist.” And for those with lighter hair, Jason Hogan, associate colourist at Josh Wood Colour, predicts the popularity of soft, radiant amber. “This not-quite blonde, not-quite copper shades works wonderfully with fair skin, softening the facial features and adding a spark to the eyes.” It’s for those who want a change, but not a complete overhaul. “This trend was made for those who want to step out of their colour comfort zone but aren’t quite ready to go bold,” says Krysia Eddery, owner and director at Perfectly Posh Aveda Concept salon. “The key to this is to remain elusive with your use of red tones and be selective with which strands you colour.” And where blondes were once keen to banish warmth and brassiness, it’s now becoming a sought-after trait. “Tobacco Yellow is my version of the Generation Z yellow colour trend we saw so much of, and it is smoking-hot in more ways than one,” says Sarah Back, colour expert at Linton & Mac. “Those looking to shake things up can take their colour into this darker version of blonde. This incarnation is made more wearable by creating a duskier, almost dirty finish.” PAINT | 17
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TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation is a unique concept designed to give clients the ‘wow factor’ during their colour service. Importantly, it enables TIGI copyright©olour experts to create endless ‘bespoke’ colours to enliven clients’ overall image with recommendations for a personalised care regime
Christel Lundqvist
TIGI global creative technical director & founder of STIL salon
TIGI COPYRIGHT CREATIVE CONSULTATION – THE PATH TO A UNIQUE HAIR SERVICE
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NOT YOUR AVERAGE
CONSULTATION CHOOSING THE RIGHT SHADE FOR YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTORS IN THE CONSULTATION. NAIL IT EVERY TIME WITH TIGI COPYRIGHT CREATIVE CONSULTATION
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HAIR COLOUR HAS the power to transform someone’s life, to give them a whole new outlook. As a colourist, you know that the right hue is more than just choosing a shade the client likes; it needs to work in harmony with a haircut and that person’s style. Attending the TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation course can help you achieve this for every client, whether they’re looking for a dramatic transformation or just a refresh. It’s inspired by an approach used in make-up that analyses a person’s natural hair level, skin tone, complexion and eye level to recommend the best colour palette. It also draws from the latest trends, as colour is one of the most stimulating and vital aspects of fashion. The TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation includes detailed moodboards so colourists can
effectively communicate the overall vision for the colour palette to help clients visualise what the colourist recommends to them. “TIGI believes the best service is tailor-made to suit the individual client’s needs. Each of us is unique, just like our hair. This is why every colour service should be complemented by a personalised care recommendation to maintain colour brilliance and provide styling options,” explains Warren Boodaghian, TIGI global technical academy director. “That’s why we developed the TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation.” Salons using TIGI copyright©olour and care also receive in-salon educational support, as well as the opportunity to attend colour courses at the TIGI Academy.
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BESPOKE SOLUTIONS COPYRIGHT EVERY CLIENT’S HAIR WITH A CUSTOMISED CARE REGIME OF TAILORED TREATMENTS FROM NEW TIGI COPYRIGHT CARE
WHEN YOU COMBINE TIGI Copyright Care with TIGI copyright©olour, you have the power to create a truly customised care regime for every client. You can offer personalised treatments to use in the salon and an aftercare programme clients can follow between salon visits. Today’s client is far more knowledgeable and up-to-date on the latest products than before, and they’re becoming increasingly used to personalised services. TIGI Copyright Care enables the hairdresser to show-off their own expertise and create a tailored regime. The colour client is often the most loyal (especially if they feel their colour can only be achieved by you) and will come back to the salon most often. But continual colour services can also lead to complications, such as hair damage. TIGI’s new service provides a luxurious salon experience with products of the highest level that also return hair to optimal condition and maintain condition from one visit to the next. BOOST YOUR BACKBAR EXPERIENCES Customer loyalty and aftercare sales often begin at the back bar. Focused on the treatment phase of the cut and colour service, TIGI Copyright Care Boosters have
been created to empower the hairdresser to deliver results clients can see and feel. So provide the Unique Client Service using nourishing TIGI Copyright Care Treatment Base infused with keratin, shea butter and TIGI’s Vitamin Complex. Then select the ideal boosters from a choice of three that can be used alone or mixed together with the TIGI Copyright Care Treatment Base: SHINE BOOSTER A specially formulated treatment to boost cuticle reflection with an exclusive oil blend of coconut oil and cassia leaf oil known for high-shine properties, this treats the dulling effects of colouring and styling. SMOOTH BOOSTER Designed to replenish the lipids lost from the cuticle during heat styling, this treatment seals in moisture and fights frizz. REPAIR BOOSTER This treatment, containing concentrated Keratin Bond Complex, boosts the repair of chemically damaged hair. Each application contains seven days’ worth of lost keratin and hair feels dramatically softer and stronger after just one use.
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IN NEED OF A HERO The hero the TIGI Copyright Care range is SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment. Created for use in the salon, it contains 100 times more keratin than regular shampoo and conditioner and is clinically proven to repair internal damage in just ďŹ ve minutes! Infused with intense Marine Protein Complex to penetrate the hair ďŹ bre at its core, this extreme recovery expert treatment system helps repair and reconstruct the most severely damaged, overprocessed hair, leaving it smooth, healthy and strong.
With TIGI Copyright Care, we can leverage our expertise as professionals to diagnose hair needs and provide recommendations for both colour and care services. TIGI Copyright Care allows me to customise our salon service, ensuring clients receive a tailored service designed exclusively for them
Christel Lundqvist
TIGI global creative technical director & founder of STIL salon To find out how TIGI Copyright Care can help grow your clientele and to arrange for an account manager to visit your salon, email: eu.customerservice@tigi.com, call 0344 844 0944 or visit tigicopyright.com. Keep up-to-date with the brand on Instagram @tigicopyright PAINT | 23
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40%
OF WOMEN ADMIT THE FIRST THING THEY NOTICE ABOUT SOMEONE ELSE IS THEIR HAIR ONLY A QUARTER OF WOMEN CLASS THEIR HAIR AS HEALTHY 25%
WHERE DO CONSUMERS COLOUR THEIR HAIR? SALON
57%
ONE-THIRD OF WOMEN VIEW INSTAGRAM BEFORE THEIR APPOINTMENT
HOME
43%
33%
BASED ON RUSH CLIENT RESEARCH, 2015
COLOUR BY NUMBERS HOW DO THE WOMEN IN THE UK AND IRELAND FEEL ABOUT HAIR COLOUR, AND WHAT’S INSPIRING THEM TO TACKLE THE LATEST TRENDS?
HOW MUCH DO WOMEN SPEND COLOURING THEIR HAIR PER YEAR?
WOMEN WHO COLOUR THEIR HAIR AT HOME SPEND
WHAT COLOUR IS YOUR HAIR* BLONDE
BRUNETTE
21%
43%
£138 PER YEAR
AUBURN
8%
WOMEN WHO COLOUR THEIR HAIR IN THE SALON SPEND
BLACK
7% STRAWBERRY BLONDE
£156 PER YEAR
SURVEY OF 1,000 UK WOMEN CONDUCTED BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS IN CONJUNCTION WITH CENSUSWIDE, 2017.
GREY
3% 4% RED
7%
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47% OF WOMEN THINK BRIGHT HAIR COLOURS ARE FOR PEOPLE OF ALL AGES*
DOES YOUR HAIR COLOUR MAKE YOU FEEL MORE CONFIDENT? NO
12%
YES
88% DO YOU SEE YOUR HAIR COLOURIST AS A FRIEND?
NO
36% YES
64% SURVEY OF LAYERED FOLLOWERS ON INSTAGRAM, FEBRUARY 2018
COLOURCAPE LANDS
THE TOP 10 FAMOUS FACES WHO HAVE INSPIRED WOMEN TO EXPERIMENT WITH HAIR COLOUR
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
KATY PERRY RIHANNA
BEYONCÉ
HELEN MIRREN HRH DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE KIM KARDASHIAN RITA ORA ELLIE GOULDING KATE HUDSON KYLIE JENNER
*SURVEY OF 3,000 WOMEN IN THE UK AND IRELAND COMMISSIONED BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL AND CONDUCTED BY ONEPOLL.COM, JULY 2017
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Crea vity
UNBOUND
TIRED OF COLOUR RESULTS NOT LIVING UP TO EXPECTATIONS? CHOOSE GOLDWELL SYSTEM AND THERE’S NO LIMIT TO WHAT YOU CAN ACHIEVE
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YOU’VE DREAMED OF limitless colour options for clients – now make it a reality with Goldwell SYSTEM, a group of salonexclusive products that allow for boundless creativity and unprecedented colour results. @Pure Pigments was the breakthrough colour innovation from Goldwell earlier in the year, following a collaboration with the experts at FujiFilm. Now it’s time to get even better colour results from @Pure Pigments with Goldwell SYSTEM. Divided into the following three categories – Creativity, Solutions and Balance – Goldwell SYSTEM is your gateway to creating colour that knows no limits. Dedicated to colour creativity, these products now offer you everything you need to customise, enrich and perfect each colour service in one toolbox.
Creativity Enjoy unlimited customisation of your colour services without limits and without foils with the new Goldwell Thickener. This high-performing thickening fluid works with oxidative colour and bleach, allowing for colouring with highly contrasting tones of up to four levels of difference directly next to each other, without any colour bleeding. Solutions Perfect your colour services with the dermatologically tested Goldwell Color Remover, which gently but effectively cleans colour residue from the skin after any service. Balance Use these high-performance products to optimise the hair structure and prevent hair damage. Goldwell BondPro+ prevents breakage by penetrating deep into the hair and protecting the fibre from within during the bleaching and colouring process. Meanwhile, the Goldwell Structure Equalizer helps to even out colour results by optimising the colour deposit on the hair that instantly equalises any structural differences.
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COLOR BOOSTING It’s perfect for creating spectacular intensity and show-stopping shades with vivid brilliance and colour saturation. Hair colour: Goldwell SilkLift, Topchic and Colorance System: Goldwell Structure Equalizer, BondPro+, @Pure Pigments and Thickener
Col r,
REIMAGINED
REDISCOVER WHY YOU GOT INTO COLOUR IN THE FIRST PLACE AND GET CLIENTS EXCITED ABOUT THEIR HAIR AGAIN WITH @ELUMENATED HAIR COLOR SERVICES BY GOLDWELL
COLOR MORPHING It creates iridescent and holographic colour effects in the hair that change and move with light. Hair colour: Goldwell Topchic System: Goldwell Structure Equalizer, @Pure Pigments and Thickener
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COLOR WASHING Create beautiful pastel washes, ranging from subtle to intense. Lighter tones can be illuminated with veils of soft colour. The combination of @Pure Pigments and the new Goldwell Thickener enables highcontrast colouring of several shades without the need of foils. Colour bleeding is also prevented. Hair colour: Goldwell SilkLift and Colorance System: Goldwell Structure Equalizer, BondPro+, @Pure Pigments and Thickener
COLOR COOLING Create beautiful, cool shimmering tones suitable for blondes and brunettes. Hair colour: Goldwell Topchic System: Goldwell Structure Equalizer and @Pure Pigments
Enjoy colour without limits with Goldwell SYSTEM, call 0330 1239530 or visit goldwell.co.uk for more information PAINT | 29
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Terry Steventon Hairdressing
Rossano Ferretti
WIGG
Rossano Ferretti Dubai
MATCH GAME
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Neil Barton for Goldwell Robert Eaton
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Russell Eaton Leeds
Neil Barton for Goldwell
WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR IN A COLOUR BRAND? AND WHAT CAN TEMPT YOU TO SWITCH? HERE’S HOW THESE SALONS FOUND THEIR PERFECT MATCH
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Colour Addicted to
Addicted to Colour
Paul Watts Ha ir
Paul Watts Hair
Rossano Ferretti, owner of 23 luxury hair spas worldwide, became a global ambassador for Coty Professional when he switched to Wella Professionals earlier this year What mattered most when you switched? To educate consumers about real beauty, respecting diversity. To upgrade the image of our industry. And that we shared the same vision and mission. What keeps clients coming in for their salon colour? A beautiful result, and the experience they have with us. Innovative new products also mean we can use marketing to drive new business – we drive the message around the world. And what are their main concerns over salon colour? Today, clients want to colour their hair without damaging their hair, which is why new Koleston Perfect with ME+ is so important. Our philosophy is to treat our clients’ hair with respect and having a product range that helps us achieve the ultimate colour result is a vital part of that philosophy. Luke Halford’s salon, Addicted to Colour, switched to Goldwell when the brand launched @Pure Pigments What mattered most when you switched? The Goldwell culture was in
line with our own, its products are innovative and we had a strong agreement in terms of education and so on. Did you involve your team in the decision process? Every step of the way. We got our managers on board by taking them to the Goldwell Color Zoom event in Barcelona; and we were invited as a team to the Goldwell London Academy to view a colour demo.
When Goldwell comes up with a new colour innovation, is it something your team talks to their clients about? Yes – the training provided by the brand is excellent and gives our team the confidence to use the products and talk about them to clients. Do colour innovations help bring in new business? We regularly stream pictures of our work on social media, including information such as the time taken, the colour products used, and the cost of the service. We get lots of new enquiries from this. Terry Steventon Hairdressing in Bournemouth recently switched to TIGI What mattered most when you switched? Vibrancy, shade choice – in particular the range of blondes and reds – and mixability.
Did you involve your team in your decision-making? Yes – colour is a major part of our business and our choice of colour partner impacts us all.
How do you react to new innovations from TIGI? Does it reassure you you’ve made the right choice? It’s important for a colour manufacturer to innovate – it helps us grow creatively and as a business. We all get excited with anything new, and Copyright Care, TIGI’s new personalised care range, has caused a real buzz. We will test it to its limits! What keeps clients coming in for their colour? The service they receive, our attention to detail, the cleanliness of our salon – and our passion for what we do. Paul Watts Hair in Kettering recently moved over to JOICO colour What made you switch? Education, the relationship and the quality of the product.
And is it something you discuss with your clients? The ‘plex’ hype is something that has invigorated the industry and having a colour brand build it into its systems is incredible. Clients know their hair is being looked after 100 per cent of the time, and it helps our bottom line as a business. What keeps your colour clients loyal to your salon? The relationship we have with them, and trust. The end result is so important and boy, do we have some incredible work walking out of our door! Do you still keep an eye on other colour brands? Always! Would I be growing and learning if I didn’t?
Colour Addicted to
Neil Barton for Goldwell
I’VE SWITCHED!
When JOICO introduces new products and ranges, does it reassure you you’ve made the right choice? Absolutely, it instils confidence. Having new products and colour systems encourages education and also excites us as hairdressers. We all love shiny new things!
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WIGG
Inizio
Inizio’s Les Jones
I’VE STAYED!
Robert Eaton, creative director of Russell Eaton and Wella Professionals’ UK and Ireland technical director What do you love about Wella Professionals? The innovation. It is constantly one step ahead, and the latest Koleston Perfect with ME+ is incredible. I have complete faith that Wella Professionals is breaking ground and pushing boundaries.
How does it bring in clients? New innovations in colour can attract new clients, if you promote them in the right way. We use social media to share the end results of a new colour. Explaining to the average client what colour does is one thing, but they really need to be shown the results to truly get it. How do you keep hold of new clients? Professional application and bespoke techniques with products that don’t damage the hair are what keep our colour clients returning. You must get every element of the service spot-on for strong repeat business. The product needs to be exceptional, the application and technique need to be completely bespoke, and the service needs to be five-star. Les Jones is salon director of Inizio in Newark, Nottingham, and has been with TIGI for years What makes you so loyal to TIGI? As a busy salon we would
always want to be associated with a leading colour brand – one that excites the team, understands what the salon needs and offers fantastic education on a regular basis.
What’s the main thing that keeps clients coming in? Commitment to colour upkeep, generally. However, we offer some great ‘in-between’ services, like Tonal Root Smudge or a Clear Gloss Shine – great for boosting colour longevity and condition. Even though you’re committed to TIGI, do you still keep an eye on what other colour brands are doing? Yes! If we didn’t, we wouldn’t understand what our competitors are offering. So far, we’ve always found TIGI to be ahead of the game. Alastair Jubb owns VAE in Diss, Norfolk, and is a fan of L’Oréal Professionnel’s Botanēa colour range What do you love about L’Oréal Professionnel? Colour brands need to be continually innovating to ensure we can offer the latest services to our clients. For example, we were looking for a natural-based colour solution, and like magic, two weeks later L’Oréal Professionnel presented us Botanēa and the education to support us. Now we can offer the service with 100 per cent passion and confidence.
What about the brand appeals to clients? New innovations help to develop a loyal clientele by keeping us one step ahead of our competitors. We always have a team talk prior to launch, so we can gauge our feelings and direction. We tell our clients about our new services via social media and consultations. Ryan Nicoletti-Dowd is the owner of WIGG and a JOICO European Design Team member What made you choose JOICO colour? First, the products deliver on every level. Second, the freedom of pure pigment colour, which allows me and the team to be truly creative with our salon colours and deliver something truly tailored for each client. And third, that our clients saw a positive change in their hair. How do you react to updates from JOICO colour such as Blonde Life? It’s always great when a brand creates what the market wants, and that they drop them at the right time. As an industry we never sit still, so brands need to be on their game. What are the main things that keep clients coming in for their salon colour? The colour market is supercompetitive and clients on social media are not so loyal as they’re always looking for
something new, so you have to keep them keen. I build up my younger team members to take care of the kind of looks that are driven by social media, while my clients aged 40 or more come to my more experienced colourists, who can take those trends and give them a more commercial twist. Neil Barton is the owner of Neil Barton Hairdressing in Edinburgh and a Goldwell Ambassador What do you love about Goldwell? It’s is always updating its range. I was lucky enough to work with Research and Development to test @Pure Pigments for a year before it was released, and it is a game-changer. Being able to mix a direct dye into any oxidative Goldwell colour is amazing, and the results are stunning. What about the brand appeals to clients? Clients are always looking for the next new thing, so they’re happy to hear about new products and services. We use social media and we try out new innovations on the team, so clients can see the results. We also do client evenings focused around new products, so they’re very much in the loop.
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HIGHLIGHTS IN HALF THE TIME
PERFECT FOR CLIENTS with little time to spare, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Instant Highlights gives up to six levels in fewer than 30 minutes, thanks to a threepart system that includes PRO HEAT technology.
THE COLOUR ADDICT
The most loyal of the lot! So how about introducing an Instant Highlights package to include a Smartbond treatment and toner as well? Pitch it as an express service they can have in-between balayage.
You need to ensure you’re talking about the right Instant Highlights service with each colour client in your chair. Are you ready to have the quick chat? The clock is ticking…
CH-UP THE REGULAR ROOT TOU
While you are waiting for the roots to develop, have you considered offering a few #instalights to refresh the midlengths and ends? This is a really easy and simple way to build in Instant Highlights. Instant glow? Give it a go…
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T N IE L C ’ T U O P O P … IN P O THE ‘P
Do you have clients that have only one hour to spare? Why not give them an #instantcontouring service and throw in a Smartbond treatment as well? No clock-watching necessary…
THE NIGHT OWL
It’s Date Night for one of your regulars… she has big plans that warrant a little more than her regular cut and blow-dry. Why not upgrade her to an Instant Highlights service by offering a few face-framing lights in a flash?
To find out more about Instant Highlights, call 0800 0304034, visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk or visit online education platform Access at lorealaccess.com/uk PAINT | 35
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ALTERED IMAGES PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEE MITCHELL
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WITH ALTERNATE LIVES, PAUL STAFFORD FOR ALFAPARF MILANO DELIVERS ATTITUDE AND LASHINGS OF BOLD COLOUR FUSED WITH STRONG LINES AND INTRICATE, FACE-FRAMING DETAIL PAINT | 37
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HAIR Paul Stafford, ALFAPARF Milano global ambassador; and Zara Colhoun, exclusively for ALFAPARF Milano Ireland. COLOUR Aidan Bradley. MAKE-UP DJ Griffin. STYLING Sara O’Neill.
! t s P
? O N R O P G N I S S E C O R P A T O O H WANNA S G? YOU’RE NOT ALONE. IN OW FL ES IC JU VE TI UR CREA ISP FORMATION GET YO E-REVEAL COLOUR WORK INTO AN ART FORM CR IN S IL FO US LO BU PR DO FA INGPORN HAS TURNED SO-CALLED #PROCESS
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Images courtesy of Instagram @peachiehair and @processperfect
PSSTC!ESSING PORN PRO
ROW UPON ROW OF perfectly aligned foils, folded with origami precision and neatness. The effect is so pleasing it’s practically orgasmic. ‘Processing porn’ – this celebration of the colour processing stage – has become the latest trend to sweep Instagram and we are here for it! Whether it’s capturing the careful placement of freehand bleach or the subtle spiral of foils, processing porn is all about highlighting the amount of effort that goes into radical colour transformations – the wait before the big reveal, the calm before the storm. “Hairdressing isn’t just a job, it’s science in an art form,” insists Amelia Fugitt, a colourist whose @processperfect Instagram page has helped to bring the trend into the spotlight. “Anyone can buy box colour at the supermarket, but can your average person take black hair with yellow stripes to an even silver in one session? Hair colour is all about chemistry.” A healthy dose of science and creativity goes into each of Amelia’s clients’ looks, all documented on her account for fellow colourists to drool over, but also to illustrate the artistry and precision of professional colour to potential clients. “I’ve always wanted the cleanest-looking foils since the beginning of my career,” she says. “Every step of the transformational experience should be calculated and aesthetically pleasing. I want to capture this necessary step and highlight – no pun intended – the artists that are perfecting their process.” Jenna Pitocco @peachiehair, a colourist at Paul Fox Salon in New York, is similarly enthusiastic. She finds the processing stage to be the most fascinating and satisfying aspect of colouring: “I really enjoy capturing the raw moments that lead up to something beautiful. The process alone of applying colour or putting foils into the hair is so therapeutic.” Documenting her work has helped to showcase her talents, but it’s also an aid to put her clients at ease. “The client will be sitting there for some time with all this activity on their head, so I’m going to make sure it looks clean and neat.” “I take pride in being honest and real with clients,” adds Jenna. “Capturing these raw moments that are so pleasing to look at are
just as important to me as the final product – they can see I adore what I do.” It’s an approach that’s seen the popularity of these artists soar, keeping their books full thanks to their intricate methodology and attention to detail. “Instagram has become my leading source of client growth because of my attention to detail,” Amelia says. “When the average client sees a perfectly smooth head of foils with a gorgeous ‘after’ picture, they are more likely to book with that stylist rather than another. Once I even had a client come to me because she saw my foils and said she wanted a stylist that cared enough to take the time to have crisp foils, and didn’t even mention the finished looks on my page.” The processing porn movement celebrates the time and the effort often ignored by the usual ‘before and after’ images. It’s something Jenna in particular has embraced, having witnessed the negativity and pressures of social media. “This beautiful balayage that we show a ‘before and after’ for, what about what it took to get there? People like seeing the story – you have to go through the ‘ugly’ to get to the ‘pretty.’ The pictures I capture are, in every sense, the pride of my craft.” There have always been those looking to set themselves apart with their artistry to drive the industry forward. For Amelia, she’s hoping that a focus on the technical aspects of the job, rather than the end results, will create a more informed and respected industry. “A platinum could easily take more than nine hours and it takes a toll on a stylist, mentally and physically. I want everyone to be able to recognise that.”
HOW TO CAPTURE PROCESSING JENNA PITOCCO @PEACHIEHAIR
HAVE FUN WITH PHOTOS AND DON’T BE TOO CRITICAL With ‘after’ shots of hair, everyone is so conscious of the placement, how it’s styled, lighting, dimension, angles and so on. With process photos you want it to be raw and organically beautiful, so don’t overthink it.
LOG A VARIETY OF WORK
These shots are meant to help you fall even more in love with something that’s already your passion. “It keeps me appreciating every step of an appointment instead of just the ‘before and after’,” Jenna adds.
“EVERY STEP OF THE EXPERIENCE SHOULD BE CALCULATED ANYD AESTHETICALL PLEASING” AMELIA FUGITT T @PROCESSPERFEC PAINT | 41
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Mee ng
MINDS
WHEN TWO TOP COLOURISTS GET TOGETHER FOR AN OH-SO ENGLISH AFTERNOON TEA, WE GET THE GOSSIP ON SOME OF THE BIGGEST ISSUES THEY FACE EVERY DAY. NOT ANOTHER SALON’S SOPHIA HILTON – WINNER OF MOST WANTED COLOUR EXPERT 2018 – AND US INSTAGRAM SMASH AND JOICO AMBASSADOR, LARISA LOVE, GET DEBATING…
2018
2018
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ON INSPIRATION...
Larisa Love: I find my inspiration from nature – especially when I travel and experience different cultures. The sunrise, the sunset, all the different colours, all the different melts. I don’t really find inspiration from people. I mean I look at their work and think ‘oh wow, that’s beautiful.’ But I want to create my own type of art on my clients, so travelling, culture and nature really are my top sources of inspiration. Sophia Hilton: I’m really interested in the practicalities of hairdressing. I’m inspired by ‘well, this is super-creative, but how practical is it?’ ‘How could I make money out of this?’ Because what I think is happening in the UK is that creative hairdressing isn’t being pushed as hard as it could be, simply because you can’t afford the product. People are wondering how to make it work for them, within their means. I guess I’ve been less inspired by hair recently and more inspired by the whole picture.
client list coming in for transformations... I’m glad I experienced that because now I can give better advice when I teach on social media, because I learned how to do all that stuff. Marketing is really important – if you have a great product but you don’t know how to sell it, then it will only stay a great product on the shelf. You are a product and you have to learn how to package yourself.
PHIA WHEN ASROIS A MET L
ON TRENDS...
SH: I don’t really care for the trends moving as fast. I actually like the consistency of offering a certain product that people buy that has guaranteed, tried-and-tested results. Our work is quite simple – I like to deliver consistency and be known for something. Different things work for different people; you’ve got to find what works for you that’s niche. LL: What I’m starting to see way more frequently is dip-dye. It’s coming back, and as blocking dip-dye, like a line. I actually really love it. I did it in my hair – I had a yellow dip-dye going through, just on the ends, and it looked so cool. I’ve started seeing that everywhere, especially with blunt bobs.
ON THE BEST ADVICE EVER RECEIVED...
ON INSTAGRAM...
LL: I utilised Instagram very early because I saw the potential in it. As Instagram is a visual platform it’s amazing for us hairdressers – or any artist out there – to really put yourself out there. Slowly but surely, I built up the type of clientele that I wanted from social media. I want people like me – young and fun and edgy with their hair. It’s where 99 per cent of my clientele is from and it’s where brands found me. I don’t think I would be anywhere near where I am without social media. I am not the best hairdresser out there, but I am great at marketing myself on social media. SH: It’s really hard to get Instagram going when you’re in a really classic salon that might have a lot of middle-aged ladies. It’s tough when you don’t have that impressive
LL: Don’t compare yourself with someone else. I think a lot of people do it with others at a higher level than them, but forget that everyone started out exactly where they were. They just want to jump the gun and skip all the steps where they’re growing and learning, but you’ve got to start at the bottom. Go your own pace, at your own growth and be yourself, be authentic to be the best that you can be. SH: There’s a northern expression: ‘you don’t get owt for nowt’, so you get nothing for nothing. I love it. I’ve always worked hard – I’m from a family of hard workers, we graft. You get out what you put in so I’ve always put a lot in so… bye-bye, social life!
See what else our PAINTER and Most Wanted Colour Expert Sophia has to say online! creativeheadmag.com/paint PAINT | 43
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L’Oréal Professionnel
THE RAINBOW DEMOCRACY TECHNOLOGY IS CATCHING UP WITH CLIENT DEMAND – SAY HELLO TO PLAYFUL SHADES FOR ALL HAIR BASES, SO YOU CAN MAKE YOUR BRUNETTE’S UNICORN DREAM A REALITY THE DEMAND FOR rainbow shades and vivid hues is still going strong. However, it’s meant darker-haired clients wanting to try these tones face disappointment unless they’re happy to hit the bleach. “Many darker-haired clients are keen to try the temporary colour trend, but don’t know they need to pre-lighten their hair first,” says Gill Berry, JOICO European Colour Design Team member. “It’s definitely put them off.” When PAINT asked colourists if they think their darker-haired clients would try more fashion shades if pre-lightening wasn’t required, the answer was an emphatic ‘yes’. Cue a plethora of colour houses now launching temporary colours that work on all hair bases. While most of these new products still can’t offer permanent or even semi-permanent shades, it does offer an option previously unknown to darker-haired clients and taps a whole new market. Improved technology has opened up the possibilities when it comes to temporary colours for clients with darker hair tones, explains Alan Cane, associate director of
education at Kao Salon Division UK. He points to KMS STYLECOLOR, which has an innovative matte-metallic hue. “The polymer complex technology with a blend of pigments is also beneficial for those with dark hair as the product evenly adheres to the hair’s surface and builds a flexible, ultrathin film to guarantee even results.” “Temporary colours allow clients to really accessorise their hair, whether it’s for a night out, festival or just to try a new look,” says Joe Hemmings, owner of Bloggs Salons in Bristol. He points to L’Oréal Professionnel’s new #COLORFULHAIR Flash Pro Hair MakeUp as a quick and easy route. Schwarzkopf Professional has just launched Bold Color Washes for in-salon use only. They have highly pigmented formulas that can deposit vibrant colours for bold, semi-permanent results. Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional, adds: “I’m sure it’s the dream of all manufacturers to come up with permanent ‘fantasy colours’ without bleaching, so who knows what technology the future will bring.”
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L’Oréal Professionnel
TEMPOURRASRY COLO
WELCOME TO THE HOUSE OF FUN
▲ L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL #COLORFULHAIR FLASH PRO HAIR MAKE-UP Change up your client’s look for every occasion with L’Oréal Professionnel’s new fun-filled palette, including two holographic shades. For in-salon use only, #COLORFULHAIR Flash Pro Hair Make-Up coats the hair in pigmented colour that washes out in just one shampoo and works on all hair bases. KMS STYLECOLOR Meet the first on/off spray-on colour by KMS. Available in nine style tones, including fashionable matt metallic shades, STYLECOLOR washes out after one shampoo but is still pillow-friendly.
▲ SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BOLD COLOR WASH Available in four shades, these washes deliver bold, vibrant colour with minimal effort and long-lasting results. Thanks to the semi-permanent performance in a sulphate-free shampoo base, the highly pigmented formulas provide one-step colouration fast.
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Casey Coleman CHAIR Salons, PAINTER
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“I love new KMS STYLECOLOR! My clients are already requesting it and want to experiment. They have the bottle to reapply, so they are in control of when they have the colour and how it’s applied, which sometimes inspires clients to be a little more creative. That could then lead onto them suggesting they want colour for real, so it’s a win-win!”
RUSK COLOUR MOUSSE Impressive for its ability to style and colour hair in one go, the RUSK Colour Mousse adds body, hold, volume – and colour! It’s perfect for clients that want to try the more fashionable shades, but don’t want to change permanently. It’s also great for those with darker hair as the colour shows up brilliantly, no matter which of the four shades your clients choose. PAINT | 45
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b t n i a P oducts to r p d n a s e h c n The latest lau ents of your colour kit boost the cont
Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora Royal Lucid Nocturnes marks part three of its Igora #RoyalTakeOver. Seductively deep, the punky midnight tones of the range have been chosen by trend-setters Rossa Jurenas and Linh Phan. 0800 526741 schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
“I love Koleston Perfect ME+. It’s exactly what I’ve been waiting for. The upgrade in dye loads and the modern interpretation of the shades are really on point” Jayson Gray Karbon Kyd, PAINTER
Stripping away colour without leaving clients’ hair in a state is a tricky business. Zalon’s three-step Colour Remover system with argan oil keeps hair looking and feeling great. 01924 466999 hairtools.co.uk
Eluminate hair with Goldwell’s new @Elumenated Hair Color Services, using Goldwell SYSTEM. With three categories – Creativity, Solutions and Balance – this colourist’s toolbox is your creativity’s BFF. 01323 432100 goldwell.co.uk
Wella Professionals has unveiled a revolutionary colour innovation – Koleston Perfect with ME+ features breakthrough technologies, Pure Balance Technology and ME+, proven to deliver rich results with less damage. 01256 320202 wella.co.uk
Power up your colour skills with the new Superpower Direct Dyes from Guy Tang’s #mydentity line. Save hair from insipid colour for up to 50 washes, with no developer needed. 0845 6590011, 0330 1231907 salon-success.co.uk, salon-services.com
Celebrate 20 years of Paul Mitchell colour with the new intensely Cool Collection from The Demi. Ideally suited for high-level blondes, these four delicate shades can be used individually for single-tone refinement or intermixed with The Demi shades for added dimension. 0845 6590011 salon-success.co.uk
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Limited edition Mother of Pearl is a new silver-over-liquorice shade in the Great Lengths line-up, available in both pre-bonded and GL Tapes system. 0113 2781292 greatlengthshair.co.uk
Want soft, iridescent on-trend shades? Reach for JOICO Color Intensity Pearl Pastel collection, with rose gold, violet pearl, blush and silver ice hues. 0845 0712326 joico.com
There can be no messing about with sub-par applicators when you’re working with vibrant colours. Manic Panic Tint Brushes give you professional precision, every time. 01579 341913 manic-panic.co.uk
Dive deep into the RUSK Deepshine Colour aftercare range for protection from UV damage, thermal styling and the effects of daily washing to help preserve your careful colour work. 0330 1231907 salon-services.com
This season is all about creating cool colour reflects, so search out the three new shades in the DIA Light Milkshake palette from L’Oréal Professionnel. 0845 6000122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Create molten-metal colours with new Revlonissimo Satinescent from Revlon Professional. Ultra-reflective with a metallic sheen, there’s the new Glamsquad collection to show off in salons, too! 020 7391 7440 revlonprofessional.co.uk
“Clients love the quick application Redken Color Gels Lacquers allows us to achieve, and it’s the last word in shine!” Amy Fish PAINTER and colourist, Larry King
The perfect partner in crime for TIGI’s copyright©olor, the new Copyright Care range extends your consultation process to span diagnosis, personalised colour and customised care for between visits. Copy that! 0844 8440944 tigiprofessional.com
Welcome to a new gel-eration of colour! With intense saturation and mirror-like shine, the new Redken Color Gels Lacquers are set to be a game-changer in colour formulations. 08000 854956 redken.co.uk
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Wella Professionals
l h c s t r A
ur career lo co r u yo st o o b to m o ro Get back in the class
Affinage
JOICO
Principles of Colouring: The Cut Creative Perfect for colourists desperate to let their creativity loose! The Education team will be on hand to show you on-trend cut and colour before a hands-on afternoon. 12 November Affinage Academy, Romsey 01794 527111; asphair.com
JOICO LumiShine Color Essentials This course provides a thorough understanding of the JOICO LumiShine Color range, taking in the colour wheel, achieving the target shade and correction. 23 October Alan Howard, Preston 0845 3458535
ALFAPARF Milano
L’Oréal Professionnel
Seamless Colouring Designed to create beautiful blends and colour combinations incorporated for a seamless result for colourists. 29 October Benjamin Close Hairdressing, Bangor +353 45856487; xpertpro.ie
Advanced Colour Inspirations – Skyler McDonald Founder of colour-only salon Skyler London, Skyler will share her insight into colours that work, how to apply a silk bath and how to personalise after-care. 26 November London lorealaccess.com/uk
Fudge Professional Headpaint Colour Essentials This covers hair structure, the colour wheel, catalyst choice, achieving the correct target shade, formulating and correction. 27 November Stoke-on-Trent 01782 202080
Goldwell Color Lab For senior colourists, this course is all about learning to express your vision in personalised colour and formula concepts. 17 October London 020 3540 1200; goldwell.co.uk
Manic Panic Achieving Neons Get technical with the theory behind neon and UV colours and learn how best to create and maintain intense, bold colours. January 2019 Location TBC 01579 341913
Not Another Salon Unrealistic expectations This colour change course was developed over a year with a psychologist to help give you the tools to deal with nightmare clients! 27,29 October; 5 November Not Another Academy, London
notanotheracademy.com; education@notanothersalon.com
Redken
Game of Blondes Learn tips, tricks and salon proven formulas for lightening and glossing at every level. Ready to up your blonde game? Discover gorgeous looks to help every client lighten up! 22 to 23 October London lorealaccess.com/uk
Revlon Professional Bespoke Colour Discover how to maximise colour business with this Thomas Hills-led course. Whether you’re a great colourist, stylist or salon owner, this will uncover the elements needed to evolve your operation. 30 October Leeds 020 7391 7440; revlonprofessional.com
Salon Services Sally Freehand Hair Painting Create ultimate colour results and master freehand colouring during this practical, hands-on technique-focused training session. You’ll also learn how to revive colour services in the salon with trend-led colour application. 27 November Aberdeen 0330 1231907; salon-services.com
Schwarzkopf Professional Freehand Specialist Freehand colouring is a technique that is here to stay – but are you clued up on all of the skills needed to nail this creative trend? This course is dedicated to colour trends, teaching you all you need to know about the salonfriendly techniques. 22 October Glasgow 01442 278000, askacademy@henkel.com
TIGI Colour Consultation A bespoke form of consultation for your clients, this will give you greater understanding of the principles of assessing skin tone, eye colour and complexion and help grow your confidence in using a trend-focused approach to customise your client palette. 22 to 23 October London 020 7228599, tigiprofessional.com/education
Wella Professionals The Perfect Colour Choice Discover how to choose the right colour every time with step by step guidance – then use your new skills to help you grow your column, as well as gain confidence. 21 November Wella Studio, Manchester 0161 8342645, wella.co.uk
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L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final 2018, Hair by Percy & Reed Art Team
STARMAKERS
Push yourself and your skills with events that can see your career rocket… milk_shake presents Colour Nation
WHEN 8 October WHERE London Salons from across the UK and Ireland duke it out for the Creative Vision and Color Vision titles, alongside the Runway and Male Grooming contests. There’ll also be an onstage show from Guest PAINTER Robert Eaton, and UK and Irish winners will compete in November in Lisbon at the International Final. wella.co.uk/trendvision
WHEN 25 November WHERE London Taking place at the Clapham Grand, this show will see the milk_shake Artistic Team put on an awesome evening of creative entertainment… and there’s one heck of an afterparty, too! milkshakehaircare.co.uk
The Alternative Hair Show When 14 October Where London Held at the iconic Freemasons Hall, this year’s theme is Mystique and will include the winners of the International Visionary Awards. There are still tickets for the afternoon show if you’re quick! info@alternativehair.org
Goldwell Color Zoom 19 WHEN opens January; deadline is 31 May WHERE UK final in July; international final 29 September A new trend, a new challenge. All will be revealed soon but the categories will remain the same – New Talent, Creative Colorist and Partner Colorist. There’s also the chance to grab a day’s mentorship and shoot with Beverly C to capture your entry! colorzoom.com
L’Oréal Colour Trophy
The Coterie
WHEN The competition opens 2 January 2019 WHERE Regional Semi Finals nationwide; the Grand Final in London in summer 2019 Unleash the star in you with this iconic colour competition – the deadline is 18 February. Semifinalists are revealed on 6 March 2019 – could it be your year? lorealcolourtrophy.com
WHEN Throughout the year WHERE London This exclusive, members-only networking club offers a unique opportunity to mix with your peers over a glass of win and hear from the biggest names in hairdressing and fashion. Previous star speakers have included session legends such as Guido and colour heroes like Josh Wood. creativeheadmag.com/ the-coterie
Most Wanted and The It List WHEN Entries open 1 March 2019 WHERE London The crème de la crème of hairdressing will be competing for the most coveted trophies around. Keep an eye on the hotly contested Colour Expert category – who will be wearing the colour crown next? creativeheadmag.com/ mostwanted
L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final 2018
Wella International TrendVision Award
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OPINION
INSTA HITS
YOU VERSUS THE LIKES
LINTON & MAC COLOUR EXPERT SARAH BLACK IS FEELING SOME SOCIAL (MEDIA) ANXIETY – SHOULD SHE POST WHAT GETS HER THE LIKES, OR WHAT’S TRUE TO HER OWN STYLE?
MY STYLE
THERE IS NO DENYING the positive power of social media – especially Instagram – when it comes to the hair industry. However, I do feel that we frequently get caught up in what’s expected of us. As a result, a pressure has built that I call ‘Instagram demand’ – to give your audience what they want to see, rather than what you want to post, leading us to post images that are more likely to be liked, securing a heart that’s (hopefully) from the heart. The inherent problem with this, of course, is that it creates a discrepancy between the images you post – between those that a true reflection of your work and the images you feel will gain the most ‘likes’. I’m experiencing this more and more. Although I would never consider myself a perfectionist, I do struggle to allow myself to post some images that others might not consider ‘perfect’. Naturally I want to make sure my industry peers and the muses that inspire me see my best work, and in my head that means every hair should be in its correct place and every image should be perfectly finished. As a result, I often find myself looking at styles I’ve created that may not be super-polished, and hesitating to post them. What makes this so ridiculous is that a super-polished aesthetic is actually not my style at all: I much prefer looks that are a little rough around the edges, with an unfinished, undone, more ‘real’ quality to them. It means I find myself torn between posting the slightly less glam images that are far more representational of my style, and posting the glossier versions that I know will go down so well on my Instagram page (@WhatSarahDoes). In this fast-paced, social media-driven world, we’re trying to keep on top of our colour game, while at the same time ensuring we’re producing new content and fresh visuals. That’s tough enough, without the added pressure to ensure we take the best possible images to post on social media. I worry that this professional expectation has resulted in a lot of what we do looking the same, leading to there being a lack of variety and diversity in the work we post.
Want to make a splash with a colour-centric opinion? Let us know @creativeheadmag and we’ll start a conversation 54 | PAINT
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N EW MOT H E R OF P EA R L COLOUR Available for limited time only
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