PAINT A/W19

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e r

l u C Clash

16/09/2019 10:31

ECLECTIC, RICH

IN

CITIES AND TO

OF

URBAN C U LT U R E MILAN,

BERLIN THE

EUROPEAN

–

THE

LONDON

P L AY E D

PA U L

AND

MUSE

MITCHELL

ARTISTIC

TEAM

FOR ITS NEW COLLECTION…

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16/09/2019 10:33

FROM BERLIN’S ICONIC STREET ART SCENE TO LONDON’S MANY NEIGHBOURHOODS AND MILAN’S CHIC SHOPPING D I S T R I C T, THE PA U L MITCHELL EUROPEAN ARTISTIC TEAM HAS C R E AT E D THE NEW WA N D E R L U S T C O L L E C T I O N TO INSPIRE A GLOBAL, INCLUSIVE FEEL. WITH A FREE-SPIRITED AIR OF A DV E N T U R E U N DE R P I N N I NG MODERN CLASSIC STYLING, E AC H LO OK I S I N S P I R E D BY O N E O F T H E S E C U LT U R E HUBS, WHILE PA U L M I TC H E L L’ S V E G A N C O L O U R OPTIONS, THE COLOR XG A N D T H E D E M I , G I V E C H A R AC T E R AND DEPTH

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16/09/2019 10:34

n a l i M

INSPIRED

BY

CINEMA

S TA R L E T S ,

ON

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THE

BOMBSHELL

VIBRANT

THIS

L AY E R S

IS

ROMANTICISM COR AL-ROSE

BOTH

S U LT R Y

OF

I TA L I A N B A L AYA G E

AND

CHIC

16/09/2019 10:34

“My inspiration came from pop culture’s obsession with rose tones and stylists’ desire for fashion tones and ways to upgrade balayage services. I added dimension and texture by creating a cooler, minky tone at the roots and a few pops of colour for variation when the sunlight hits her hair” V I C K Y PA N T I N G , COLOURIST

“Inspired by the ’50s and ’60s, this modern shape resembles the beauty and the sensuality of Italian icon Sophia Loren.

I combined a geometric perimeter and internal layers then framed them with pin-up fringe that was cut to curve slightly upward at the corners” M A R C O I A F R AT E , HAIRCUTTER

“I accentuated her natural texture by creating very soft waves with controlled movement in the fringe”

S É V E R I N E PA P I N , STYLIST

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19/09/2019 11:52

“I wanted to experiment with the idea of natural light hitting the hair to create a shimmering light effect, while enhancing her natural texture and bringing it to life. In a subtle reference to ’90s British supermodels, I applied foils around the hairline to enhance the places where natural light would hit” L U K E DAW S O N - B R O W N E , COLOURIST

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16/09/2019 10:35

о d Lо

ICONIC BACK

S TA N D S

LANDMARKS

CENTURIES, IN

S TA R K

AND

A

HISTORY

LONDON’S

C O N T R A S T.

T H AT

STRETCHES

FA S H I O N - F O R WA R D

THE

PA L E T T E

OF

EDGE

W A L N U T,

B R O N Z E A N D C A R A M E L O N T H E S E F R E E - F L O W I N G , N AT U R A L CURLS

GIVES

WA R M T H ,

DIMENSION

AND

TEXTURE

“I wanted the opposite of sweet curls. I curved them into a strong triangular shape, then added finger waves on the top for a very fashionable, retro touch” S É V E R I N E PA P I N , STYLIST

“I was inspired by the model’s texture and free-spiritedness.

The cut is made for curls with a lot of bounce, movement and freedom of texture. I created it with a lower forward graduation technique that is elongated at the back, while the top is elevated horizontally to contain the volume” MARCO IAFRANTE, HAIRCUTTER

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19/09/2019 11:52

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16/09/2019 10:36

n i l r Be

THIS

E DGY

TA K E

CONTE MPOR ARY CLASH

OF

PA S T

ON

‘60S

COLOUR AND

MOD

AND

FA S H I O N

TEXTURE,

PRESENT

IN

CLASHES

MIMICKING

GERMANY’S

WITH THE

C A P I TA L

“I was inspired by faded pastel tones painting the Berlin sky. From autumn to winter, daylight transitions from a soft warm light to a beige-coloured tone. I gave the model’s freshly lifted hair more dimension without removing the light for an edgy finish” E V E LY N S T R A U S S , COLOURIST

“For this look I was reminiscing about the mod subculture. I decided to revise the bowl cut or pageboy style with a modern twist. I combined a double baseline to introduce different levels of texture. We began by naturally drying the roots to contain volume, then we smoothed the midlengths to the ends by twisting the brush in different directions to build texture diversity for a modern finish” M A R C O I A F R AT E , HAIRCUTTER

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19/09/2019 11:53

“I would love to explore the splendour of Vietnam – I haven’t been there since I was a child. It would be a dream to see where my family is from, take in the sights and sounds, wander the busy streets enjoying the cuisine, and fully immerse myself in the culture... my culture”

“San Miguel de Salinas in Spain for the laid-back bohemian feel. This has to be my special go-to destination. It holds a fond place in my heart and soul” L U K E DAW S O N - B R O W N E

“Every other year I take a road trip through the United States, visiting different destinations such as caves, national parks, deserts, ghost towns and so on. One of the top trips on my wish list is to go to Alaska for a few weeks to enjoy the national parks, frozen glaciers and the amazing scenery” M A R C O I A F R AT E

NOOGIE THAI

W H E R E W O U L D YO U L I K E T O WA N D E R T H I S A / W 1 9 ?

“The Tiergarten in my hometown of Berlin is the best place for me as this inner-city park is big and full of colours in autumn. You have the chance to relax and find new inspiration”

“I’ll be wandering along London’s iconic Brick Lane. The mix of street art, vintage shops and quirky places to eat makes it one of my favourite places to get lost in for a day.”

E V E LY N S T R A U S S

V I C K Y PA N T I N G

“I’m a citizen of the world! For me, every continent and every country is full of architectural and human treasures. Wherever I am, I take height – be it a rooftop or a mountaintop – to take advantage of the calming views and to contemplate the forms of an urban or natural landscape” S É V E R I N E PA P I N

Give your team the passport to grow and develop their colour aspirations. For more information on Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color, including The Color XG and The Demi, or to request the full Wanderlust brochure with formulas and details to recreate the looks, call Salon Success on 0845 659 0011 or visit salon-success.co.uk/professional-hair-colour

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16/09/2019 10:37

AND GET SWITCHED ON TO COLOUR WITH CREATIVE HEAD TV!

ZOË IRWIN

JORDANNA COBELLA

ROBERT EATON

JAYSON GRAY AKA KARBON KYD

CLAYDE BAUMANN

Watch Creative HEAD editor,

Amanda Nottage, in conversation with a host of brilliant Wella colourists… only on Creative HEAD TV

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/TV CHTVpage_PAINT.indd 1

19/09/2019 11:34

COLOUR LIFE FEELING FORMULAIC? DON’T COME UNSPOOLED!

SELF/STYLED is our creative hub for freelance pioneers – for those who want to colour outside the lines. Whether you’re juggling time in the salon with freelance work, rent a chair or have struck out on your own, SELF/STYLED offers a community of fellow creative souls • Freelance opportunities on The Gig List • Be Scene calendar of events and education courses • Deal of the Month, in partnership with Salon Services

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17/09/2019 16:50

THIS IS

CONTENTS

OUR MISSION IS TO CELEBRATE COLOUR AND THE ARTISTS CREATING IT – AND TALK FRANKLY ABOUT WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE SALON AND ONLINE

06 PAINTERS

The gang shares some shady nightmares

14 THE FORECAST 28 #COLOURIRL 32 FASHION 36 SAY WHAT YOU SEE 40 ONE AND ONLY 42 CONQUER YOUR FEAR 44 COLOR ZOOM 50 OPINION

50

The season’s most wearable new trends

Amazing hues and formulas from real life

40

PAINTER Casey Coleman overpowers our senses

How to create a colour menu that makes sense

14

28 06

The rise of the colour-only salon

Don’t be afraid of colour corrections

PAINT goes behind the scenes with Goldwell

Thomas Hills on our obsession with Instagram

32 ON THE COVER

Hair by the Paul Mitchell European Artistic Team EDITOR Amanda Nottage ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal ART Graeme White DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann CONTRIBUTORS Kelsey Dring, Deborah Murtha, Anna Samson CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood COMMERCIAL EDITOR Eve Wagstaff PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock PAINT is a supplement of Creative HEAD. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission from the publisher. All information is correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.

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19/09/2019 13:26

? s e k a Miste’ve made a few…

W

NT PAINTERS VISIT PAINT ONLINE AND YOU’LL SEE OUR RESIDE MULAS TO CLIENT SHARING EVERYTHING FROM TECHNIQUES TO FOR ST MOMENT ADVICE. WE ASKED THEM WHAT WAS THE SCARIE Y HANDLE THE THEY’VE FACED WITH COLOUR… AND HOW DID THE SITUATION? COME ON, WE’VE ALL BEEN THERE…

S hia Hil n NOT ANOTHER SALON

2019

LAST YEAR I WAS colouring the hair of an editor from a big fashion magazine.

She was the kind of woman that was lovely, but you just know the moment something wasn’t to her taste she wouldn’t be – you know that client.

She asked for big copper pieces in her curls with bits of gold. I mixed a copper on a 7 and some highlight tint and went to work. Just as I was on the top few sections I couldn’t help but notice that it looked strange as it was developing. I popped downstairs only to find where the copper is usually kept sat a tube of pure green pigment!

I literally couldn’t breathe. I looked at Carla the manager and she said: ‘Come on Sophia, you do corrections for everyone else, now you have to do your own’. You know that feeling when you can hardly swallow?

I took a bowl of bleach up and without her realising it ran it over every copper chunk. Thank god it was curly hair and chunky sections work best! Lord knows how I got away with it, but I toned it all copper and it looked banging. She said it was her best colour yet.

Mistakes happen and none of us are above that sick feeling in our stomachs. It’s why I’ve launched a course called ‘Colourists Anxiety’ – to get on the waiting list email manager@notanothersalon.com

06 | PAINT

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12/09/2019 15:56

I HAD JUST FINISHED applying colour to my client’s hair when I noticed that the ends were lifting rapidly. As I thought I was using bleach with 2%, this struck me as really odd, especially once I noticed there had been very little progress with the roots. I was perplexed enough to double check with my assistant what he had mixed. He repeated the formulas back to me but with the developers reversed, bleach +9% and the base colour with 2%. It hit me... this was going to be a massive fail.

In the moment I have to admit I was furious, but I was more concerned at finding a way to style it out. Was there a way to rectify the situation without spelling out to my client what exactly had happened? At Rainbow Room International we present ourselves as colour experts and charge accordingly. It didn’t feel conceivable that I was going to have to tell my client that I had put the wrong colour on her hair! And that we were going to rinse her colour off, dry it in front of a mirror, thus revealing it was still grey at the roots and orange at the ends – all before attempting to rectify the issue.

It was a busy Saturday and by this point I had four clients, and a fifth would be arriving soon. To be completely honest, I went and sat in the toilet for a couple of minutes. I needed a moment of peace to think. I decided honesty was the best policy. I spelled out the issue to my client and explained what would happen next. To be honest, she was not in the least bit happy, and the strength of her reaction took me by surprise.

It took some persuading but she allowed me to finish the job and thankfully it looked really good, not that it seemed to matter to her. When she left that day, I really didn’t know if she would ever be back, but I’m grateful to say that she’s still my client today. This whole incident reinforced to me the need to always take 100 per cent responsibility in every aspect of what I do. Because as this episode showed, at the end of day it’s going to me that is held accountable, not anyone else.

l l a g

D c M y d d a P RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

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PAINT | 07

19/09/2019 13:28

Casey Coleman CHAIR SALONS

HERE’S A DOOZY… about nine years ago I had a client that I used to colour for my boss. She was a base 1 on top of resistant white hair, so you can imagine the build up!

She decided that because she was naturally so light and her son’s birthday was coming up, she wanted to go light. We had about 10 weeks to try and get her to her goal (which we all know is HIGHLY unrealistic). We lightened it at week one, then again at week six. We were left with a very warm 7, which we had to tone to a 6 to eliminate the brass.

Two weeks later, she called to request that she have it redone because she wanted it a base 10 for her son’s birthday. I refused to do it several times, but my boss ended up booking it back in as she was very persistent.

So I gave in. Predictably, once we started rinsing her colour her hair started coming out with it. In chunks. It was the only time that something had gone so horribly wrong. I convinced her to cut her hair shorter to go with the colour, which she was up for. But there was no saving it. I had a ball of hair in my hand at the end of the appointment and nothing but regret, even though she was happy!

I let a client dictate what I was going to do to her hair.

That’s a mistake that I will never make again. Don’t be afraid to say no!

y a r G о

Ja AKA KARBON KYD

I WAS AWAY DOING a show back in the early days.

We were working on a big presentation in Spain and I had done all the prep work leading up to show day and coloured all the models who were to be presented minus the three demo models, who were due to be coloured onstage the next day. So off to dinner we went.

The next morning, as I prepared one particular demo model, it dawned on me that we had not had time to analyse her hair properly, and find out all the hair history… and there was no time now.

So, off I went to the stage and proceeded to demo my look. As I started my technique and began applying a lightening product to the lengths of the hair, the funniest thing started to happen. The

hair started to smoke and combust right in front of me. I felt sick instantly, but decided the show must go on! I worked quickly and started to talk and make gestures with my hands, and the translator had my back, and also joined in and made hand gestures, and remarked on how fabulous my technique was.

This was literally smoke and mirrors, as we really trying to waft the fumes and smoke away from the stage.

We managed to present the technique without ‘an incident’, and got the model off the stage and rinsed ASAP. I did save the colour and managed to make it look decent in the final presentation. No-one ever knew what happened that day, except the translator and I… until now!

08 | PAINT

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12/09/2019 15:56

… t u b e d r te in a p r e h g in k And ma

k c a l B Sarah LINTON & MAC

I CAN SAY WITH confidence I’ve had a few scary colour moments in my career, but there is one that’s fresh in my memory as it only happened a few weeks ago!

I have a bleach and tone client I’ve been working with for a few years now, we’ve experimented with silvers and greys, but for a couple of years she’s been white.

I see her every few months and we do a long regrowth bleach, her hair is super-light so it lifts like a dream.

She came in a few weeks ago and while I was dealing with other clients, I had an assistant mix her toner ready for me to apply. As the toner oxidises it always looks fearfully dark, but that’s something I’ve learned not to be scared of, ironically! Little did I know there had been a mix up with some colour boxes and tubes and a base 4 plum had been mixed into my toner by mistake instead of pure tone. *INSERT SCREAM HERE!* So the beautiful white my client loves is now purple! Of course, I explained the whole situation to her so there was no whispering or panicked energy making her feel on edge. And so began the cleanse and retoning process!

The result, without adding more bleach, was going to be warmer, so I left her with a really soft peach and planned a (free) home care routine with another appointment to get it back to white.

By the correction appointment she was actually enjoying the tone and wanted to embrace going proper peach. Human error happens so keep calm, think logically and use your knowledge.

Most of all, remember that there is a person under that head of hair, so be honest and tactful.

For more insight, advice, techniques and inspiration, check out our PAINTERS at creativeheadmag.com/paint PAINT | 09

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12/09/2019 15:57

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IGHT M H T U O Y F O IN A T N U THE FO HINE IS M U L W E N T U B , H T BE A MY ILL W O IC JO M O R F K C YOUTHLO G IN V IE L E B S T N IE L C HAVE YOUR CLES YOU CAN WORK MIRA

e f i l

R I X I L E

It’s no secret that clients are willing to spend good money on looking younger. From miracle creams to ‘tweakments’, recapturing that radiance of youth becomes more and more of a focus as we age. It’s the same with hair – greys might be the most obvious change, but the loss of keratin proteins and essential fatty acids as we age also leaves hair looking dull and past its best.

Rejuvenate clients’ hair with LumiShine YouthLock, JOICO’s first collagen-infused permanent crème colour. The innovative formula captures the miracle effects of collagen – well known for being a skin miracle-worker by keeping things plump through improved elasticity and hydration. With just one colour service you can help to revitalise strands, leaving them looking and feeling both younger and healthier. No greys, no dullness, just gleaming and gorgeous hair.

LOCK IN 100 PER CENT GREY COVERAGE LOCK IN BODY, MOVEMENT AND BOUNCE* LOCK IN MANAGEABILITY, NOTICEABLE SMOOTHNESS AND INCREASED SOFTNESS** LOCK IN RADIANCE WITH UP TO TWICE THE SHINE*** LOCK IN HYDRATION AND HELP PREVENT BREAKAGE**** 12 | PAINT

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13/09/2019 11:39

h t

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Give your clients’ colour a new lease of life with JOICO LumiShine YouthLock.

For more information, call 0845 071 2326 or visit joico-lumishine.com

@joicoeurope #lumishine #youthlock #fountainofyouthhair

*with K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner. **with K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner on damaged hair. ***versus untreated damaged hair. ****Combing breakage on damaged hair with K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner versus non-conditioning shampoo

acids that o in m a d n a il o f collagen, buriti lour its signature finish, o d n le b e iv s lu It’s an exc e YouthLock co y-looking appearance. in h iS m u L ’s O gives JOIC d with a health gy also kicks in for e h s e fr re g lin e leaving locks fe d-Building ArgiPlex Technolo finish. The new n y LumiShine’s Bo , colour longevity and a health nt crème shades e incredible shine k series comes in 13 perman over.

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PAINT | 13

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13/09/2019 11:39

Grace Wales Bonner

ZL BY ZLISM

Preen

Anna Sui

A/W19

Kalissi

Shoptye

Colin Horgan

Bethany Williams

IENTS THANKS TO INSTAGRAM AND PINTEREST CLEV ER ARE MORE SWITCHED ON TO TRENDS THAN AHEAD. BEFORE – SO YOU NEED TO STAY ONE STEP T WE’VE SCOURED THE CATWALKS FOR THESLAABTES OUT LOOKS AND CHAT TED TO TOP COLOURISTBE SAFE IN THE HOTTEST TECHNIQUES, SO YOU CAN THE BEST THE KNOWLEDGE THAT YOU’RE OFFERING COLOUR SERVICES AROUND

VIN + OMI

Erdem Simon Mo

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14 | PAINT

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19/09/2019 13:29

KAM Hair and Body Spa

THE TREND VINTAGE VIBE

Vas Mikellides, Sinead Kelly London Edward & Co

PRODUCTS JOICO Color Intensity Pearl Pastels, Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe, Staino by evo fab pro, Paul Mitchell Blonde SynchroLift, Goldwell Elumen Play, Organic Colour Systems No Limits, Pulp Riot toners, #mydentity Super Power direct dye

Mark Fast

Goldwell Elumen Play Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal

An ques roadsh

In an increasingly uncertain world it’s no wonder that clients are taking the opportunity to inject some optimism into their lives. They’re embracing feelgood nostalgia and sepiastyle blondes or faded pastels – it’s the hair equivalent of rosetinted glasses.

“Think pared-back hues reminiscent of dusty vintage gems, the muted hint of metallic in antique metals such as copper and brushed gold, and the faded pastel shades of washed-out polaroids,” says Thomas Hills, director at TH1 Hair. “I put the rise of this trend down to Instagram and the use of filters that add a retro effect.”

Gary Taylor, owner of Edward & Co in Brighouse in Yorkshire, attributes this trend to an upbeat attitude despite the seasons changing. “The colder months are coming but hair is not following suit with cooler tones. Warm hues, reminiscent of radiant golden hour sunshine in summer are becoming more popular,” a flawless base is essential to this Polaroid-perfect look,” says Gary. “I always use BlondMe by Schwarzkopf Professional for lifting locks to this golden-gleam finish.”

Once you’ve achieved the right foundation, you can layer on shimmering shades in delicate colours, says Karen Thomson, owner of KAM Hair and Body Spa. “Mauve, a very subtle petal-like hue, is great for blondes or clients with grey hair who want to a touch of colour and create a bit of dimension.”

And it’s not just a trend for light hair, as Thomas explains.

“Brunettes look stunning when given a shade inspired by antique metals. Dusty copper is a great example as it’s toneddown and less vibrant than standard copper.”

PAINT | 15

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19/09/2019 13:29

L’OrÊal Professionnel Majirel GLOW

Bad Apple Hair

ALFAPARF Milano ASP Kitoko Botanical Colour

Go with the fl Redken

It’s undeniable that interest in all things natural is at an alltime high, and that extends to hair. Clients who want subtle yet expensive-looking hair are requesting ribbons of natural tones, which is an evolution of a classic trend, says Tracey Devine-Smith, global ambassador for ASP Affinage Salon Professional. “It’s an update on a ‘80s technique, but now it’s more subtle.�

It’s a highly personalised look that works in tandem with the cut. “This trend pushes the boundaries of traditional balayage, featuring clever colour placement around the hairline to suit the unique layers of a cut,� explains global head of technical training at Fudge Professional, Tracy Hayes. “Bleach isn’t a necessity, but highlift blondes, gold blondes, and caramels will keep this technique looking super-effortless.�

Steph Peckmore, colour manager at Bad Apple Hair Group, explains the subtleties of making coloured hair look so natural. “It’s similar to contouring in the sense that you are using the colour to create an effect, rather than for colour change. Follow the lines as they will dictate where to place colour for maximum effect.�

Krysia Eddery, owner and director of Perfectly Posh Hair, warns against lifting the hair too much – it’s important to keep it fluid and understated. “With this technique it’s all about giving the hair a very natural, sun-kissed like finish, so never go too light.�

And it’s important to send your clients away with the right tools to keep their hair gleaming. “The look may appear lowmaintenance, but treatments and the right aftercare are essential,� adds Tracey Devine-Smith.

Ernesto Naranjo

THE TREND CHASING WATERFALLS

PRODUCTS L’OrÊal Professionnel Majirel GLOW, ASP Kitoko Botanical Colour, evo fabuloso pro, ALFAPARF Milano Precious Nature, Redken Shades EQ Gloss, IdHAIR Gloss, Schwarzkopf Professional True Beautiful Honest Colour Creme

16 | PAINT

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19/09/2019 13:30

PRODUCTS milk_shake colour Whipped Cream, Wella Koleston Perfect ME+, Fudge Professional Head Paint, Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Colour Sublime, Aveda Full Spectrum Vibrants , Goldwell @Pure Pigments

Paul Costelloe

Zoë Irwin for Wella Professionals Rainbow Room International

Revlon Professional

Fashion images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel, My Hair.Care, R&Co, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

Goldwell

Fudge Professional

r

v a l f Full

THE TREND SPICE RACK

Exotic bazaars are the source of inspiration for spicing things up this season – add a sprinkle of these rich, luxurious shades to liven up natural hair or create an all-over colour for a fuller flavour.

Zoë Irwin, Wella Professionals colour trend expert and Most Wanted Creative Talent 2019, has identified a rising interest in terracotta, mustard and sage green. “Yellow as a tone has had a 50 per cent year on year rise, and terracotta is coming through as being a strong colour forecast for 2020,” she explains.

Vas Mikellides, executive stylist at Sinead Kelly London and winner of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2019, agrees that this trend is heating up. “For maximum impact adventurous clients can go for an all-over gloss, and for clients who only want a touch of spice, you can use freehand techniques.”

Suzie McGill, Schwarzkopf Professional UK ambassador and international artistic director at Rainbow Room International, advises blondes opt for a turmeric yellow. “This hair colour is great for blondes who want to update their look and opt for something more vibrant and for those who do not want the colour all over the hair, they can incorporate this into flashes or panels for a cool update.”

Meanwhile, Kevin Paul Finnell, director at F&M, recommends dark peppercorn tones for a deep and mysterious look, and a dusting of paprika is equally alluring to red-headed clients.

“Shades of cinnamon and paprika are particularly favoured,” says Neil Barton, Goldwell ambassador and owner of Neil Barton Hairdressing. “I love to mix highlights with Goldwell @Pure Pigments for gloss and to warm up the skin tone”.

PAINT | 17

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19/09/2019 13:30

COLOUR DIFFERENT PRESS PLAY ON GOLDWELL’S REVOLUTIONARY HAIR SYSTEM ELUMEN, REINVENTED FOR A NEW GENERATION OF CREATIVE COLOURISTS

18 | PAINT

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12/09/2019 16:03

The year was 2001. With a unique technology, a pioneering hair colour was unveiled, with long-lasting direct dyes that were nonoxidative, ammonia-free and delivered brilliant colour results with amazing shine. We see you Elumen! Now the story continues‌

PAINT | 19

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20 | PAINT

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*Up to 100 per cent. **NN@6 and NN@8 offer up to 100 per cent natural grey coverage. ***Up to 100 per cent, depending on hair structure and intensity of colour. ****Prolongs the durability of Elumen colour by up to 12 washes compared with conventional care products.

WANNA PLAY WITH US?

A NEW GENERATION OF ELUMEN FROM GOLDWELL FOR A NEW GENERATION OF CREATIVE COLOURISTS. IT’S PLAY TIME!

Sweet Lavender

Cool Mint

Jet Black

Ocean Blue

Mysterious Violet

Hot Pink

refresher or a confidence boost?

Check out the Goldwell Education Plus YouTube channel!

ELUMEN CARE The next generation of colour care. Made to perfectly match colour and look after it beautifully, including two in-salon exclusive treatments and four take home heroes to boost your retail, clients can keep the brilliance, nourish their hair and help improve their hair structure.**** Perfect for Elumen, to maintain that long-lasting colour… yet also a match for Elumen Play, to support that true tone fade. Group hug!

Tropical Green

ELUMEN PLAY The new kid on the block. Semi-permanent and oh so versatile. Made to fade (but fabulously so) with 13 shades, you can mix and match. Let them fade on tone, then repeat. Or not – with new Eraser, you can remove the colour up to 100 per cent then Play again.*** From sunny yellow to bashful rose; just colour, rinse, fade, repeat… colour, rinse, Need some inspiration, a fade, repeat…

Fiery Red

Juicy Orange

Sunny Yellow

Blush Coral

ELUMEN The original. Long lasting. Made to stay.

With 32 shades from natural to bold you can mix and match, while also covering grey.* Don’t forget the five hard-working support products in the range to prep hair, thicken texture, lock in tones, clean stains and reduce colour. There are new pastel shades and, for the first time, there are two natural shades to allow you to cover grey hair with direct dyes.**

Bashful Rose

*Up to 100 per cent. **NN@6 and NN@8 offer up to 100 per cent natural grey coverage. ***Up to 100 per cent, depending on hair structure and intensity of colour. ****Prolongs the durability of Elumen colour by up to 12 washes compared with conventional care products.

WITH THE NEXT generation of colourists comes a new era of Elumen. A different direct dye system for stunningly different results. A different creative inspiration that encourages you to trust in your own genius. Follow your instinct; you decide what works. This is a new way to create colour…

Want to be an Elumenator? To discover new Elumen Play, call 0330 1239530, visit goldwell.co.uk and follow @goldwelluk on #ELUMEN #ELUMENPLAY #COLORDIFFERENT PAINT | 21

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Loca о, loca о, loca о WHERE YOU ARE IN THE COUNTRY CAN HAVE A DRASTIC EFFECT ON THE OUTCOME OF YOUR COLOUR WORK THANKS TO THE NEGATIVE EFFECTS OF HARD WATER AND AIR POLLUTION. LEVEL THE PLAYING FIELD WITH REVLON PROFESSIONAL’S MAGNET RANGE FROM EXTINCTION REBELLION to climate change reports, recycling concerns to water contamination, the state of our planet is hitting the news on a daily basis.

You should be clued up on the latest issues that could impact your clients’ hair, including the effect on their hair colour.

If you think London is the only city in the UK which is choking under the effects of too much air pollution, you’d be wrong – more than 40 towns and cities in the UK have reached, or exceeded, air pollution limits set by the World Health Organization.

Thirty UK towns and cities, including seemingly idyllic areas of the country such as York and Royal Leamington Spa, have all exceeded the limit of 10 micrograms per cubic metre. The likes of Oxford and Brighton are already pushing at that limit too, with more cities likely to follow.

Your postcode can also affect your colour work in another big way due to water quality. In areas of hard water there is a high concentration of mineral salts that cause lime. This lime then deposits on the hair while you’re rinsing and washing, leaving hair dull and rough to the touch. Hard water areas cover huge amounts of the UK, stretching from the south coast of England up to Edinburgh.

Lead the fight for cleaner hair and protected colour with the MAGNET collection from Revlon Professional.

MAGNET is designed to enhance and clarify your colour results, while also improving the overall quality of hair.

The innovative Polluplex System technology fights back against pollution’s daily damage, both in the salon-exclusive products and through at-home care.

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A radical idea YOU DON’T HAVE TO SIT BACK AND SIMPLY ACCEPT THE NEGATIVE EFFECTS OF POLLUTION ON YOUR WORK. TAKE A STANCE WITH REVLON PROFESSIONAL MAGNET AIR POLLUTION CAN directly affect the outcome of your daily colour work by depositing on the hair surface and damaging the cuticle. During the colouring process, deposits from air pollution react with the hydrogen peroxide and other ingredients to create free radicals.

Global warming is something else to be wary of, and in more than just the way it’s damaging the planet. Excessive sun radiation degrades hair colour and damages the hair protein structure, inducing premature hair aging.

We hear about free radicals all the time but underestimate the damage they can cause – these highly reactive molecules damage hair’s inner structure, breaking essential hair keratin bonds and leaving hair weaker and much more fragile.

And, to add insult to injury, they also interfere with colour performance. Free radicals give imprecise, unreliable colour results that appear less vibrant and shiny.

Shields up

● MAGNET’s clever technology works on five levels, combining to create a shield to protect hair from the negative effects of air pollution, UV and water damage ● Chelating agents neutralise and remove metallic and mineral particles from hair

● Keratin reinforcers protect and repair hair’s molecular structure ● Polluplex System is a natural DiO derivative complex that forms a protective layer over the hair and blocks pollution ● Moringa seed extract helps to naturally inhibit free-radical formation, strengthen hair fibre and avoid particle deposits ● Arginine, a natural amino acid, contains antioxidative properties to protect and repair hair structure Air pollution and hard water are issues no matter where you are in the country.

By introducing a line of products to create a stable base for hair, you can ensure your colour work is as effective as possible.

The revolutionary Pollution Neutralizer kicks things off at the backwash, negating the effects of metallic deposits and fighting free radical formation. The Color Lock Repairing Shampoo provides back-up, reducing the effects of poor water build up and helping hair structure to recover.

Equip your clients with the ammunition they need to continue the fight at home, with the Micellar Cleanser, Restoring Mask and Daily Shield to remove daily pollutants and shield from environmental aggressors.

Stand up to pollution and you’ll see the difference in the colour and quality of your clients’ hair.

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STEP 2: SHAMPOO HAIR WITH REVLON PROFESSIONAL MAG NET AN COLOUR LOCK REPAIR TI-POLLUTION ING SHAMPOO

STEP 1: DEVELOPER L OUR AND N PROFESSIONA L O C R U MIX YO EN ADD REVLO EUTRALISER L TH ION N AS USUA ET ANTI-POLLUT TURE IX MAGN TO THE M STEP 4: COMPLETE THE SERVICE WITH REVLO N PROFESSIONAL MAGNET ANTI-POLLUT ION DAILY SHIELD

STEP 3: OFESSIONAL LON PR RING MASK V E R Y L TO APP ION RES T U L L O ANTI-P VE ON MAGNET RIED HAIR, LEA TES INU EL-D ON TOW FOR UP TO 10 M

Discover how MAGNET can help to protect your colour business. Call 020 7391 7440 or visit revlonprofessional.com @revlonprofessionaluk #RevlonProfessional #MagnetRP #CreateBoldly #LiveBoldly PAINT | 25

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Maria Aleksandrova

rova Maria Aleksand

Tracey Burnap

Be limi e Tracey Burnap

Sarah Whitesell

Alyssa Housch

GET BOLD AND AIM HIGH WITHOUT COMPROMISING YOUR ETHICS OR YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR QUALITY, WITH NO LIMITS FROM ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS

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● OCS believes animals should not suffer for beauty ● OCS believes in maintaining the highest quality and safety standards ● OCS believes in using the most natural and organic ingredients in products to make them healthier for stylists and their clients ● OCS believes in making its products responsibly so as to limit the impact on the environment

‘‘

I love No Limits because they give you the freedom as an artist to create any colour, shade or tint desired be it natural, vibrant or pastel. And it leaves the hair in great condition!

Tracey Burnap

‘‘

Bright colourful hair is a fantastic way for individuals to express themselves. I love using No Limits to achieve these looks. The line gives us the freedom to mix any tone we desire, whether bright and bold or soft and pastel. The colours are true to tone, they don’t bleed when washing and I know I am keeping the hair at optimum health along the way Sarah Whitesell

Organic Hair Lab, Arizona

ll Sarah Whitese

The Organic Colour Systems way

‘‘

*You must still perform a patch test

wheat protein to protect the hair, comfrey extract to detangle and add shine, and chamomile to condition and hydrate!

And with No Limits colour arriving at your backwash in a 140ml bottle, you get two to three full head applications – wave bye-bye to single-use packaging! It’s no wonder colourists adore it…

‘‘

BOLD BRIGHTS AND PRETTY pastels have boomed over recent years (thank you Instagram!), with a new hair colour trend emerging on the regular. From gemlights to stained glass hair, there’s always a new take on a hot hue technique. But when choosing a semi-permanent hair colour brand for your salon and your clientele, it’s vital to look not just at the end results but also the ingredients and the ethical values of the brand itself. Never has the modern day consumer been more eco-conscious…

Organic Colour Systems (OCS) is passionate about why it does what it does.

It cares about the integrity of hair, because truly healthy hair will always give the very best results and long-lasting colour. This is why with its system a wet stretch test is performed to see what the hair is lacking.

You can then prescribe a treatment before any colour is applied.

Used by stylists in more than 40 countries worldwide, the 12-strong No Limits Semi-Permanent colour range lives up to its name, from Black to Hot Pink to Silver Grey, and all the shades it can be pastelised down to inbetween.

And for colourists, it’s great to know that the colour in the bowl is the result on the hair, a result that will last between three and 30 washes. And they’re all completely free from PPD and PTD, perfect for those with sensitivities.* Formulated using a conditioning base, hair is actually being treated while No Limits colour develops, with key natural and organic ingredients include gluten-free

Ahavah Organic SpALON, Illinois

Free your colour creativity – discover more about No Limits from Organic Colour Systems. Call 01590 646462 or visit organiccoloursystems.com PAINT | 27

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#Col rIRL @basicbleech

@danielle_at_sorella, @sorella_salon_knaphill

WHEN PAINT LAUNCHED, WE PROMISED TO SHARE YOUR TRANSFORMATIONS ACROSS PRINT AND DIGITAL IF YOU TAGGED YOUR WORK #COLOURIRL AND HIT UP @CREATIVEHEADMAG. SO HERE WE ARE – AWESOME COLOUR FRESH FROM OUR FEED, WITH A FEW FORMULAS TO BOOT. GET SOCIAL, AND SEE WHAT YOU CAN SHARE‌

THE COLOURIST GRACE LEE THE LOOK PASTEL METALLIC

“I used Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Absolute Grey Lilac to blend the natural roots and midlengths together, then IGORA Royal Pearlescence 1189 for the ends. I blended using a swiping motion for a smooth melt.�

THE COLOURIST DANIELLE MONTAY THE LOOK PINK BALAYAGE+

“This client wanted to spice it up a little.

I used Redken Shades EQ 50:50 pink and clear to give it a little pink base.

Then I went over it with JOICO Colour Intensity 50:50 soft pink and orange, then a second mixture of soft pink on its own, alternating sections for different tones.�

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THE LOOK PASTEL SILK BATH

THE COLOURIST LEIGHANNE REGAN THE LOOK RE: FRESH

“This is for clients who are already blonde but need a little top-up to feel bright and blended. Hair health is imperative for healthy-looking blondes.

RE: FRESH allows blondes to maintain lift without compromise.

It’s a mixture of foiled highlights with basin balayage to add an extra pop without affecting condition. It’s gentle lifting technique and is the perfect way to keep control over lift. I used Redken Flash Lift 10 vol, Redken Shades EQ 9n 9v for the root tone and Shades EQ 9n and clear for the ends.”

“This was on a seven-week scalp bleach regrowth. I used 20g L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio Platinium + 60g 30 vol with L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond Step One, developing for 50 minutes. The root shadow toner was 10g 9.11 L’Oréal Professionnel DIA Light 15g 6 vol, while the lengths and ends was 20g L’Oréal Professionnel DIA Richesse .20 with 30g 9vol with L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond Step One, developing for 12 minutes then I rinsed. I then used L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond Step Two for 10 minutes of developing, then shampooed and towel dried. For the silk bath, I used 20g Crazy Color Pinkissimo, 20g Crazy Color Hot Purple and 20g Crazy Color Lavender.

I let them develop, then cold rinsed and conditioned.”

@ghairby_daisymckane, @rcnq

@chloeannham

@leighanneregan, @renuhairstudio

THE COLOURIST CHLOE HAMILTON

Fo

THE COLOURIST DAISY MCKANE

THE LOOK TANGERINE DREAM

“I started with freehand balayage using Redken Flash Lift 20 vol.

I then pre-toned with Shades EQ Pastel Peach 30g and one cap of Orange Kicker, and developed for 20 minutes. After drying the hair, I applied Redken City Beats Chelsea Coral and West Village Sunset in equal parts, and developed for 30 minutes.”

your wor k e r a h s o t et Don’t forg with PAINT! colourIRL # g a m d a he @creative

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T R U H T ’ N S E O D IT

T R I L F O T

0 MINUTES TO 1 T S JU S E K TA R, IT S N EXPERIMENTE A R O R PROFESSIONAL E A IM L -T L T E S W IR M F O A R F IS R OLOU CLIENT GS ATTACHED C IN WHETHER YOUR R T S O N W E N EM, WITH TRANSFORM TH

THERE’S A REASON why highlights and balayage still rule the roost when it comes to colour services – clients know what to expect. They might dream of being a fiery redhead or a popping pastel shade, but at the end of the day the majority stick to what they know. But what if they didn’t? What if you could offer a simple yet stunning service that was fast, affordable and – most importantly – low on commitment? No Strings Attached Colour by Wella Professionals is a super-speedy service with just 10 minutes’ development time that conditions hair and infuses hair with colour. And with a recommended price of £49, it’s a tempting transformation that won’t break the bank… Thanks to the extensive Koleston Perfect ME+ shade range, you have an incredible colour palette of 131 shades to play with and you don’t need any new tubes to start offering the service. The colour is mixed with a conditioning product to give clients maximum condition and shine for a gorgeous finish. This is the perfect cost-effective, profitable service to draw extra business out of your existing colour clients with the lastest trending shades, and encourage the colour-shy to try a fresh new look.

THE NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR MENU FIRST TIMER

Upgrade your colour-shy clients to a quick, lowcommitment colour service

TEST THE TREND

Flirt with a brand-new look and the latest trending shades

COOL BLONDE

Neutralise unwanted tones without exposing natural warmth

CHOOSE from 131 shades of Koleston Perfect ME+. You and your clients have a rainbow of shades to play with.

MIX one-part Koleston Perfect ME+ with one-

part Welloxon Perfect 1.9% and one-part INVIGO Post Color Treatment, Elements Conditioner or System Professional Color Save Conditioner.

APPLY the mixed shade to pre-shampooed, towel-dried hair and develop for 10 minutes. You can apply at the backwash or styling station, with no need to shampoo or condition – just rinse out.

REFRESH

Add shine and fresh colour to faded lengths and ends after a regrowth application

To learn more about this business boosting service, contact your Wella Professionals sales representative or call your local Wella Studio, London: 020 3650 4700 or Manchester: 0161 8342645. wella.com /WellaUK @wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt 30 | PAINT

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ROBERT EATON, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK AND IRELAND TECHNICAL DIRECTOR, EXPLAINS HOW THE NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR SERVICE CAN HELP TO UPLIFT YOUR INCOME… I love the speed and the simplicity of No Strings Attached colour. It can fit into anyone’s column and complements the existing salon services easily. I love the way this is bringing permanent colour to life for clients who previously weren’t using colour

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OVERPOWERED BE BOWLED OVER BY A MIX OF CREATIVE COLOURING AND POWERFUL SHAPES FROM CASEY COLEMAN, PAINTER AND OWNER OF CHAIR SALONS. WITH REFERENCES FROM ’70S AND ’80S WITH A MODERN TWIST, THIS COLLECTION TAKES COMMERCIAL TECHNIQUES SUCH AS COLOUR BLEEDING AND BLOCKING AND GIVES THEM A FRESH EDITORIAL FLAVOUR PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEL BURNETT PAINT | 33

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HAIR Casey Coleman. MAKE-UP Chris Howells. STYLING Jamie Russell

! g n i r u

о

C

Re esh!

SAY WHAT YOU SEE

FOR YEARS COLOUR MENUS HAVE TALKED TECHNICAL JARGON TO A CLIENT AUDIENCE WHO DON’T ALWAYS UNDERSTAND WHAT A T-SECTION IS. THESE SALONS HAVE TAKEN A LESSON IN LANGUAGE AND MODERNISED THEIR COLOUR MENUS TO ENCOURAGE MORE CLIENTS TO PLAY WITH SHADES. ARE YOU SPEAKING THE RIGHT LANGUAGE?

Sun - ki ed!

Col r p !

GINA CONWAY

Gina Conway Aveda Salons & Spas

2019

We didn’t revamp our menu so much as extend our offering. We wanted to offer guests who were interested in having colour the option to ‘have a try’ at a lower price point before taking the plunge, so we introduced our Express Menu. We felt there was a whole generation of people who just needed a little nudge towards using our services and discovering Aveda.

Our main colour requests are tints and highlights which can be an investment both in time and money, so we felt that a ‘taster’ menu would be a great addition to our colour offering. We also have guests who visit us just for haircuts and were keen to introduce them gently to Aveda colour.

The express services are both affordable and speedy. The Colour Pop allows guests to have a bit of fun with their colour in either a prominent or a conservative location. Feature Foils and Root Refresh offer a great introduction to classic colour options adding interest and dimension.

This menu introduces a new element to our colour business to a younger clientele, looking for a quick colour fix that won’t break the bank. Our guests have embraced the new colour options, adding on a Colour Pop or Feature Foils to their highlights or tints. The lower price point is attracting new guests to the salon, many of whom are converted after they visit!

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AKIN KONIZI HOB Salons

COLIN MCANDREW Medusa, Edinburgh

As 46 per cent of our clients are having a technical service of some kind, getting colour right is vital for our business.

But recently, with so many new products launching and a new approach to training within the team, what we offered had grown so varied and sophisticated, we were concerned about communicating it to clients. We had to find a way for our team to express clearly and succinctly the depth of our technical services. Clients were overwhelmed by choice and many had no idea what each entailed or how long it took.

Our team is highly skilled, but we recognise it was being left to them to try to summarise everything while the client

WATCH COLIN ONLINE AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/TV

was in the chair. There was just too much to communicate. So, in partnership with Wella Professionals, we invested in a new menu that is more of a consultation brochure.

This menu is picture-led but more than just showing images of colour it lays out specifics about techniques, estimating the time so clients can plan for the service and recognise the level of input required by the colourist and therefore, vitally, appreciate the cost. It’s crucial to client satisfaction that they understand as much about their transformation as possible ahead of the actual service. Since the brochure was introduced last year, colour services have increased by an average of six per cent.

The team created a new colour menu this year as a solution to what we felt was needed to support both colourists and clients in achieving the perfect colour consultation. We often find that clients struggle to understand the different types of colour service on offer, and to accurately explain the shade and result they’re looking for, they can be confused about what colours need what maintenance, and why, for example, some services will cost more to upkeep than others!

Our menu clearly sets out the costs and upkeep requirements of each service in plain English, as well as a completely transparent honest account of the pros and cons of each one. We’re not suggesting that the menu could ever replace a colourist’s knowledge and expert advice, it’s simply a tool to help the colourist guide the client through the decisionmaking process with the aid of some visual steers. Each service description includes unretouched pictures of real salon clients – what it really looks like.

Clients have given us great feedback on the menu and have come out of their consultations feeling more informed about the different options. Colourists have found it easier to start conversations about aftercare and treatments as the menu acts as a prompt and they now have relevant images within easy reach to show the different results from different services.

We’re looking forward to updating it next year and making it even better.

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JODY BROOKS

Charles Worthington Salons

Social media has led to guests having more inspiration at their fingertips than ever before and their hair desires are imagebased, not technique-based.

Old-style price lists did not allow for creativity and were often confusing. Clients have a picture in their mind or on their phone of what they wanted but no knowledge of the technique required to achieve it.

Frequently this would lead to them booking a service based on price, not results.

Services are all-inclusive and fixed price, avoiding surprises at the desk. The key is to make it about a look provided by a highlyskilled professional, not a set of highlights or roots. We created a new service menu reducing our colour services to just four – Colour Renew, Bespoke Colour, Advanced Bespoke and Freehand Bespoke.

Services are time-based with an allocation of stock to each service and colourists attend to only one guest at a time. The menu was designed to communicate to guests in a way that was more about their hair wants, needs and desires. The descriptions are more personality rather that technique-based, and show the time it will take.

We work with evo and evo fabuloso pro, which allows us to make every guest their own personalised colour conditioner that matches their colour. The business has benefited in many ways; the team is not rushed and we’ve seen an increase in retail and guest satisfaction.

w e n e r r

Col

036-039_Modern Menus_GW4.indd 3

After

Before

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Llumi Lights

Foilayage

Blonde Blonde

We wanted to keep the colour menu up-to-date so new techniques such as Foilayage and Llumi Lights were added, as it’s important to stay ahead on all the latest trends. Transparency and simplicity are key to this menu to avoid clients being overwhelmed by all the different names given to techniques, and to give the client a better understanding what each look entails.

The blonde menu shows six main colour looks, making it easier for clients to decide which result they want. Each look is given a realistic brief on the maintenance required of their chosen technique. Clients are intrigued by this new menu and it’s a great tool for any colourist to bring out during a consultation. They find it easy to understand and the visuals give a better idea of the results each technique gives.

Blonde Bronde

KATIE HALE

Bebe Lights

Keeping it Blonde

Haus Of Brooks

19/09/2019 13:35

Amplify Me

Amplify Me

Cobella Contour

JORDANNA COBELLA Cobella Hair

Ensuring services are appealing, current and client-friendly is a priority. For decades, the same techniques such as highlights, balayage and regrowth have been the only services offered, this is no longer enough.

Hair colour services must be tailored to each individual client’s desires and needs.

There are endless methods for tailoring a colour service but it’s time to educate our clients on what’s available. Rather than opting for a ‘technique’ such as balayage, clients should be given the choice to select the end result. Researching this made me wonder if our colour menu reflected our craftmanship and its bespoke nature.

After a year of research, I launched our first ever Cobella Colour Menu, with three bespoke colouring services designed to sell the client the end result rather than the method. Each service is presented as a moodboard featuring colour palettes and lifestyle images to help the client connect and visualise their end result. We are selling a seasonal colour service that is influenced by the latest trends, colour and design.

This service appeals to both regular and new clients who are anxious to book colour services and have little idea on where to start, what to ask for or what they want.

Alongside a full colour consultation, these services provide clients with advice on how to best wear their new hair colour, featured around complementary fashion and make-up ideas. For our S/S19 season, we introduced the following:

Cobella Contour

3D Blonde

3D Blonde

The seasоal col r menu Amplify Me – a thickening service ideal for bob to lob-length hair. It creates a multitonal effect giving the illusion of thicker, fuller hair. The technique creates soft hues with dark tones on the top layers of hair with lighter tones underneath for a natural take on reverse-balayage.

Cobella Contour – this service is for the colour virgin. It’s a flattering, face-framing technique that illuminates the hair. Rather than committing to a full balayage, clients can opt for sun-kissed hues deliberately placed to enhance the client’s features.

3D Blonde – Existing blonde clients can explore colour with a playful palette, using the law of ‘opposites attract’. The palette is a juxtaposition of cool and warm tones creating a personalised hint of drama that is the perfect complement to skin tones.

It can be adapted to create either a loud contrast or a subtle finish.

Having the moodboards displayed on the salon floor with swatches of colours is our way of marrying fashion, design, make-up and colour worlds into everyday hair. It also creates a talking point in-salon for colour, fashion and style advice and contributes to the unique salon experience. Clients feel it’s an easier way of visualising colour and allows for a more tailored service.

Home colouring is now less of a threat and giving colour advice using the menu and moodboards elevates the artistry involved in colouring. I’m now hard at work devising our next menu!

SEE JORDANNA TALK COLOUR AND MORE ON CREATIVE HEAD VIDEO! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/TV PAINT | 39

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It’s Science

Skyler London

It’s Science

It’s Science

Skyler London

eill Joanne O’N

Joan ne O ’Neil l

Skyler London

ONE AND ONLY WOULD YOU RISK THE REST OF YOUR SERVICES, AND YOUR CLIENTELE, TO CONCENTRATE ONLY ON COLOUR? PAINT SPEAKS TO SALONS WHERE COLOUR COMES FIRST… AND SECOND… AND THIRD…

but already has made colour her forte with more than 80 per cent of guests visiting for colour. Having invested in a 10ft-long colour bar, she ensures that her guests feel safe in the hands of an specialist. “As soon as you open the door, you are met by our colour bar,” she explains. “We have no closed-off area for mixing – everything is formulated in front of the client. There’s also a huge blackboard at the side of the bar where we write down every client’s formulation. These are backed up in our database, but because the client can see the numbers, they feel part of the equation.”

It’s a bold move to make colour the centrepiece of your salon, but these leaps of faith have paid off immensely. “I was told Skyler London

WE OFTEN THINK THAT clients want choice, but can that lead to too much of a good thing? While some salons are trying to offer everything in a one-stop shop, others are carefully selecting their services and positioning themselves as specialists in the ever-growing field of colour.

Skyler London was the first colour-only salon to open in the UK and the team’s mission was to create expert colour work that would inspire both the visitors and the staff. “Our sole focus is on colour. This means our team can simplify the way our guests see colour and how we consult with them on their needs,” explains Lloyd Court, colour director at Skyler London.

Colouring services and consultations underpin everything the salon offers; clients can examine their new hues under different lights in the 360-degree reveal zone, relax in the luxury backwash area complete with fully reclining beds during lengthy processes, and even opt to dry their own hair to keep costs down.

Joanne O’Neill, owner of Joanne O’Neill Hairdressing in Belfast, was advised to stop doing blow-drys and found a bespoke colour focus would suit both her health and her business. “I decided to change the service menu because I had repetitive strain injury in my shoulder and elbow,” she reveals. “The doctor advised me to stop work for a while, but I could not contemplate that idea as I love working! Luckily Wella Professionals had introduced Couture Colour and I loved the concept of personalised colour and consultation. I wanted my services to be ever-changing and more fashion led.”

Gemma Amura only opened her salon, It’s Science, in Swansea in February this year,

I would lose my bread and butter clients, and that it would be bad for business. But it was the right thing to do,” says Joanne.

“I have a bit less stress on my shoulder and arms. My regular clients are colour clients who are more open to change, and we get to concentrate on an expert service. The salon is reinvigorated!”

Gemma Amura agrees, saying the unique approach to colouring has had a positive response: “Our salon is both a hair experience and a colour education experience – I often talk through ideas such as dominant pigments and use images to demonstrate. When we opened our doors I wasn’t sure how it would be received, but it’s a gamble that has totally paid off.”

And Skyler London has successfully carved out a niche. “Our guests absolutely love having a place solely dedicated to colour,” says Lloyd. “They know we are a dedicated team and create an open dialogue, offering them the knowledge to help maintain their colour at home. From the pricing to booking an online appointment or consultation, they know at all times what they’re coming in and paying for prior to coming in, so there are no surprise charges.”

With one common goal, the Skyler London team is streamlined, meaning business is booming. “By only specialising in colour, our team is more time-efficient and focused on giving our guests gorgeous hair colour every time,” says Lloyd. “Our systems have been tested and we’ve found that a number of guests could be in and out of the salon in about an hour. This is far quicker than traditional salons – it maximises appointment times, minimises waiting times and increases our booking rate.”

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Col c rо c re

CONQUER YOUR FEAR

Images: Instagram

@andpinks

IT’S THE REQUEST THAT MAKES EVERY TECHNICIAN ANXIOUS – COLOUR CORRECTIONS. FACING UNKNOWN LAYERS OF COLOUR, UNABLE TO TRUST ANYTHING BUT YOUR OWN KNOWLEDGE TO SAVE YOU FROM DISASTER… PAINT INVESTIGATES HOW TO OVERCOME YOUR FEARS

BEFORE

AFTER

Whether it’s shocking transformation attempts from pitch black to icy blonde or more subtle adjustments of mismatched tones, colour correction can be a complete minefield. Often you’re working on hair long-past its ideal quality, navigating multiple brands (and box dyes) – and that’s if your client is being totally frank with you…

“The problem is challenging clients who expect the same result they see on social media in just one visit to the salon,” says Gary Taylor, owner of Edward & Co in Brighouse. “They often try to create a look at home, but when it doesn’t work out they come to the salon and expect us to correct it with one visit.”

Jason Hogan, based at Josh Wood Colour in London, also places blame on distorted home-colour adverts. “With the production that goes into the advertising and marketing of athome colours, it’s easy for consumers to be misled, leading to major mishaps,” he says.

For James Taylor at Moose House of Hair in Market Harborough, it’s the social media side-by-side comparisons that give him

BEFORE headaches. “A lot of images are edited or are not transparent enough at explaining the process, time and cost of these transformations,” he explains. “They only show the beginning and the end without any explanation of the journey.”

So, how should you break the news to clients and best equip yourself for any tears and tantrums that follow? By being scientific about it and utilising the data you have. Dylan Brittain, international artistic director at Rainbow Room International and Schwarzkopf Professional UK ambassador, insists on running strand tests, as much for your client as for you to be the most confident.

“It’s important to test the strength, porosity, metallic salts and elasticity, and be happy with the results to all of these tests prior to conducting any colour correction,” Dylan says. “You should also share these results with your client before starting.”

PAINTER Jayson Gray, aka Karbon Kyd, likes to play detective as well: “I always make it my mission to find out who produced the box dye in question and go from there,” he explains. “That makes it easier to link it the professional brands and work out its

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love going on courses. Second, if you work in a salon, don’t be shy to ask your team if you are unsure about something; it’s good to be vocal about what scares you about colour correction because then you can start to learn from others.”

Colour corrections aren’t anything to be fearful of, urges Michelle Marshall, owner of Michelle Marshall Salon in Cardiff. “The best way to build up confidence is to practice, practice, practice,” she insists. “We do far more colour corrections than we think every day – neutralising or adding warmth, adding depth or lightening up… and that’s just when we are topping up a root retouch!”

When it comes down to it, facing a colour correction boils down to five key points, as explained by Steph Peckmore, colour manager at Bad Apple Hair Group: “Make the condition of their hair as big a priority as the results they are looking to achieve; go back to basics; remember the science; be confident in your technical expertise and true to what you believe; and the results will speak for themselves.”

Amen to that!

AF TER

@lloydcourthair

@chairsalons

composition... et voilà, it takes out some of the guess work.”

Anne Veck, founder of her eponymous salon chain and a Revlon Professional ambassador, insists on a full written consultation that the client has to sign, stating that they understand the implication of the work that’s about to be undertaken. “You need to be aware of any previous services, what their homecare regime is, any medications they are on, their use of heated appliances, everything,” she adds.

You also need to stress the importance of honesty. “If you feel like clients do not understand certain aspects of the colour correction then be honest and tell them,” says Lloyd Court, colour director at Skyler London. “You want to make sure both you and your guest are comfortable.”

You’ll need to set aside an ample amount of time, from consultation and testing through to the time you give for the appointments. “But don’t make any promises you can’t keep,” adds Tom Smith, colour director at Billi Currie and evo international creative team member. “I never take other bookings while working

BEFORE

on a colour correction appointment. It’s important to charge appropriately and for it to be 100 per cent of your focus.”

However, he never turns away a correction case as he believes there is always something that can be done. “In the worse cases this might only be a series of Olaplex treatments to prepare the hair before future colouring, but this can be an opportunity for you to gain the trust of the client and begin educating them on what will be required to help them reach their hair goals,” he adds.

Educating your client and getting them involved also helps to buy you that all-important breathing room, without worrying about what they might write about you online afterwards. “Even if you’re telling them something they don’t want to hear, their expectations become more realistic, allowing you to play it safe!” says PAINTER Casey Coleman, owner of CHAIR Salons.

Andria Kaisharis, colour director at Fowler35, suggests finding help from other sources, too: “If you’re not confident, book yourself on a colour correction course immediately. These are designed to give confidence. Even though I’ve got 15 years of experience I still

AF TER

HELP! COLOUR CORRECTION EDUCATION COLOR ER

atic makeovers to fixing This Redken course covers dram ’ll be equipped to deal you box dyes gone rogue. After this g. thin any ut abo with just

18 to 19 October, London lorealaccess.com/uk

CORRECTIVE COLOUR

ed approach to salon corrective This TIGI course brings a simplifi to perform a corrective hair how colour work. You’ll learn and achieve great results. assessment, client consultation

18 November, London tigiprofessional.com

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d n a p u t i Rip n i a g a t r a st AT THE ANNUAL COLOR ZOOM UK FINAL, A GOLDWELL AMBASSADOR TAKES TO THE STAGE TO PRESENT A HUE-PACKED SHOW. THIS YEAR, SEVERAL ARTISTS COLLABORATED ON A COLOUR EXTRAVAGANZA, USING THE COLOR ZOOM ’19 TREND REMIX AS A JUMPING-OFF POINT. THAT THEME IS A BLEND OF BOLD COLOURS, SHARP CONTOURS AND STRONG CONTRASTS, INSPIRED BY POP ART AND GRAPHIC MINIMALISM TO CREATE AN OPTICAL POP EFFECT… AND USING THE NEW ELUMEN PLAY RANGE. PAINT SPOKE TO A FEW OF THEM TO FIND OUT MORE

Beverly C MBE sitive “It was a blast! It’s such a po us of vibe and so much fun. All on t ge Goldwell ambassadors so well and help each other are backstage. It shows that we g rkin all in the same boat – wo ere Th al. towards the Goldwell go ct for is a real professional respe such it each other which makes da an easy and enjoyable y.”

Jamie Benny

“We were asked to cre ate own looks using new Elu our men PLAY. We prepped our models together but hadn’t sp oken to each other before that day so our ideas were very diff erent, which really showed th e colour’s versatility. Learn ing how different teams ap proach styling was brilliant to see.”

44 | PAINT

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Lisa Whiteman

“Backstage prep can be a strange environment for stylists working in close proximity with each other, but we got on very well.

Just before the models went on stage all of us were buzzing as we’d all worked hard, and when all the models were lined up, the expertise shone through.�

Neil Bar n

“The colours were very vivid and really made an impact. The styling was spectacular too, everything just pulled together and fitted well – it was such a smooth show.

We have all worked together many times and I love watching how others work and always take inspiration from my peers.

I especially love watching Beverly C working on her creations!�

It’s very much ab out team spirit, it was love ly to catch up backstage. Th is year’s UK final had a real se nse of fun, with contrasting hair colour and clashing fash io chose different sh n. We all ad placements for co es and lo chatted about ho ur and w much we love Elumen PL AY!�

Shane Benne PAINT | 45

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b t n i a P cts to u d o r p d n a s e ch The latest launents of your colour kit boost the cont

The Majirel GLOW collection from L’Oréal Professionnel is its first translucent permanent hair colour, perfect for both a colour refresh or for colour cautious clients looking to try a new hue.

In-salon service lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Clients are demanding a beautiful bespoke blonde; try TIGI’s Copyright Colour True Light Freestyle Blonder to let the light in.

In-salon service tigiprofessional.com

Full Spectrum Vibrants Semi-Permanent Treatment Hair Colour from Aveda is 95 per cent naturally derived. Use it alone for intense vibrant results or blend together to create customised shades.

In-salon service aveda.co.uk

“Elumen PLAY is just what we needed. True to tone, they fade fab and they’re lovely to work into the hair!”

Casey Coleman CHAIR Salons and PAINTER

A colour palette of 10 super-bright and intense direct dyes and a clear, staino by evo fab pro is fully intermixable for customised, long-lasting bold colour and shine.

In-salon service evohair.com

The iconic colour has been updated, joined by bright semi-permanent Elumen PLAY and the new care line-up. Everything is Elumenated!

In-salon service; Care RRP from £13 goldwell.co.uk

Regular use of the ColorMotion+ line-up from Wella Professionals improves the quality of coloured hair by providing protection for up to eight weeks, giving vibrant shine and strengthening the hair structure.

RRP from £14.90 wella.com

LumiShine YouthLock is JOICO’s first collageninfused permanent colour, delivering plumping hydration to revitalise hair with bounce, body, and softness while offering 100 per cent grey coverage.

In-salon service joicoeurope.com

46 | PAINT

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BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener is a soft-to-solid formula that cleverly creates an outer shell, keeping the lightener moist on the inside, while the outer shell protects uncoloured hair from product transfer.

Perfect for balayage…

In-salon service schwarzkopfpro.com

Say hello to the New Naturals, the new 10-strong shade range from the color XG by Paul Mitchell.

It keeps clients looking fresh without stepping out of their colour comfort zone.

In-salon service salon-success.co.uk

Defend your client’s colour with MAGNET, the pollution shield for vibrant hair colour from Revlon Professional. MAGNET Anti-Pollution Neutralizer stops the negative effects of metals during colour services, and works with any brand.

In-salon service; RRP from £17 revlonprofessional.com

Taking its colour shade offering to more than 80 hues, the three new colours Dusty Pink, Coral and Autumn Foilage are now available from Great Lengths in GL Tapes and classic bonds.

In-salon service greatlengthshair.co.uk

Mindful clients looking for vegan, gluten-free natural colour?

New ASP Kitoko Botanical Colour is 87 to 100 per cent organic depending on the shade, with natural dyes including henna, cassia and turmeric.

There’s a Primer Shampoo too to prep a blank canvas.

In-salon service asphair.com

Keep high level blondes as cool as ice this Autumn as Redken Shades EQ unveils new Level 10 toners – 010VV Lavender Ice and 010N Delicate Natural.

In-salon service redken.co.uk

IdHAIR Gloss semi-permanent colour system can be used for toning, colour correction, postbleach, gloss effects, correcting base colour and as a colour refresher – and all are vegan and free from ammonia, parabens and PPD. In-salon service idhairuk.com

Keep colour popping and your client’s conscience clear with infuse My. Colour shampoos, rich with glossing pigment. There are also versions you can tailor in-salon for your clients!

RRP £15.95 my-haircare.com

No Limits Semi-Permanent Colours from Organic Colour Systems last between three and 30 washes, are completely free from PPD and PTD and bottles give you two to three applications.

Brilliant all round…

In-salon service organiccoloursystems.com PAINT | 47

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l

h c Art s

ALFAPARF Milano

Seamless Colour This is a full-day course designed to create beautiful blends and colour combinations incorporated into a seamless result for colourists who have at least one year’s experience. The focus is on balayage, seamless root blending and shine bands.

4 November, Bangor, NI academy@xperthair.ie xpertpro.ie

ASP Affinage Salon Professional

Freehand Colour & Contouring Want to find out the secrets of the perfect personalised colour?

This course looks at face shape, hair fall and client’s lifestyle, taking you through the correct product selection and placement to suit your client’s needs.

28 October, Romsey 01794 527111 asphair.com

Aveda

Kinetic Colour: Vivids Inspired by Ian Michael Black, Aveda global artistic director for hair colour, this course reveals his creative process for creating kinetic colour with Pure Pigments and shares his insider tips for pushing tones to the extremes.

4 November, Aveda London Academy

d apron ready! an h us br ur yo et g – on ti the na Colour education across

0370 4286382 avedapurepro.co.uk

evo

Creative Placement – Fundamental Staino Techniques Creative genius is a lifestyle... are you ready to take your creativity with evo staino to the next level?

This colour technique class will take you on a journey and awaken your inner genius from its slumber, so you can slay commercial techniques on the salon floor.

6 to 7 October, King’s Canary Salon, London education@evohair.com evohair.com

Goldwell

Balayage Ombre Fusion Looking for new techniques, ideas and inspiration? Want to perfect your balayage? This one-day seminar shares quick and easy techniques to help grow your colour confidence.

13 November, London 020 3540 1200 goldwell.co.uk/education

IdHAIR

Id Advanced Theory Delve deeper into the world of IdHAIR, covering ‘6 To Go’ and how to use it in your formulation process to achieve the perfect result every time, as well as deal with remaining pigments

in the lightening and colour correction process.

11 November, Trade Hair Supplies, Gateshead 0191 482 6340 idhairuk.com

JOICO

Lumishine Colour Essentials This morning session will provide a thorough understanding of the new JOICO Lumishine Color range. This includes hair structure, the colour wheel, peroxide choice, achieving the correct target shade, formulating and advanced colour correction.

30 October, Alan Howard Leeds 01253 628008 alanhoward.co.uk

L’Oréal Professionnel

Colour Keys 1 Learn the principles of how colour works on the hair, taking into consideration the levels of lightness and how L’Oréal Professionnel products and their reflect families achieve beautiful results at a foundation level.

18 November, Charlie Miller Academy, Edinburgh coursesuk@loreal.com lorealaccess.com/uk

milk_shake

Rescue Remedies This is for any qualified stylist with at least two years of experience

on the salon floor and is designed to resolve a range of colour correction problems that are regularly seen in the salon.

11 November, PHAB, Exeter 01392 365177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk

Organic Colour Systems

Blondes Workshop A workshop that teaches you how to use the High Lift Series, Naturlite Lightening powder and toners to achieve gorgeous clean blondes. Start the day learning the theory behind blonde biology and then create your own beautiful blonde looks.

21 October, London 01590 646462 organiccoloursystems.com

Paul Mitchell

Colour Edit This course helps you to deliver Insta-worthy hair! Following the colour, the on-hand consultants will help you achieve the perfect image to post…

21 October, Aylesbury 0845 6590011 salon-success.co.uk/education

Redken

Game of Blondes Blonde remains the most popular colour in the country, which is why it’s so vital for salons to create

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L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final 2019

Goldwell

bespoke, on-trend results to keep both their clients and colourists excited. Get the techniques, formulas and insights to up your blonde game.

12 to 13 October, London coursesuk@loreal.com lorealaccess.com/uk

Revlon Professional

Prism Part 2 with Shaun Hall – Mark Leeson Team Upgrade, strengthen and perfect creative colouring and cutting on fashion-inspired progressive looks that can then be diluted and filtered to everyday salon work.

9 October, Westrow House Academy, Leeds 020 7391 7440 revlonprofessional.com

Salon Services

Sally Express Colour Correct & Restore This interactive workshop will show you how to maximise your earning potential by understanding and building confidence in resolving colour problems in a hassle-free way.

17 October, Andover 0330 1231907 salon-services.com

palette and learn new mixes.

4 November, Peter Marcus, Manchester 020 7724 7931 skpevents.co.uk/ASKeducation

TIGI

Corrective colour Gain the confidence to tackle any corrective colour service and understand how to simplify the approach to dealing with corrective situations with simple and effective lightening and prepigmented techniques using TIGI’s hair colours versatile portfolio.

18 November, London 020 7228 5999 tigiprofessional.com/education

Wella Professionals

Colour Genius New for 2019, this advanced course is an opportunity to push your creativity and expand your skillset, exploring the latest salon trends, effective placement and the art of the consultation.

25 to 26 November, Manchester 0161 8342645 wella.co.uk/ education

Schwarzkopf Professional

Colour Decoded Want to go beyond your usual colour techniques and learn how to create individual, personalised blends for your clients? This course with Dylan Brittain will help you to deepen your colour

Let PAINTER Sophia Hilton help you deal with clients’ Unrealistic Expectations!

25 November. Book at notanotheracademy.com

STAGE STARS This is the platform to change your career – ready for the challenge?

The Coterie Pop-Up

WHEN 14 October WHERE Liverpool Our exclusive networking club offers a unique chance to mix with peers and hear from the biggest names in hairdressing and fashion – at this Merseyside event you’ll hear from A-list colourist, Nicola Clarke. creativeheadmag.com/eventnews/the-coterie

Goldwell Color Zoom

OPENS January Fashion meets stunning hair artistry at Color Zoom, with looks based on the new Color Zoom Collection designed by the global winners of the Color Zoom Challenge and two of Goldwell’s international artists. goldwell.co.uk

L’Oréal Colour Trophy

OPENS January Share your colour addiction with this iconic colour competition, which celebrates its 65th birthday in 2020! The Regional Semi-Finals cross the UK before the party ends in style in London! lorealcolourtrophy.com

Aveda MASTERJAM WHEN 25 to 26 February WHERE Tokyo, Japan

Aveda heads to Japan for Masterjam Toyko, a two-day celebration that showcases the latest international trends and techniques and pulls in artists from around the world. And with Tokyo the home of the 2020 Olympics, we’re expecting some gold-level inspiration at the shows from names such as Antoinette Beenders and Ian Michael Black. avedapurepro.co.uk

Wella TrendVision Award, Creative Retreat Experience

WHEN 14 to 15 March WHERE Seville, Spain This event brings together the global winners of Trend Vision, and we’ll have an eye on the Color Artist of the Year victors as they work to earn more trophies. The 2020 competition opens in February. wella.co.uk/trendvision

Most Wanted and The It List Awards

OPENS March The very best hairdressers will be competing for the hottest trophies in town. Keep an eye on the Colour Expert category! creativeheadmag.com/ mostwanted

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GOT TO BE REAL

OPINION

INSTAGRAM HELPS FUEL SALON COLOUR TRANSFORMATIONS – BUT THOMAS HILLS, DIRECTOR OF TH1 HAIR, BELIEVES SOCIAL MEDIA IS CONSUMING OUR INDUSTRY AND IT’S TIME TO GO BACK TO BEING OUR AUTHENTIC SELVES

Instagram – love it or loathe it, it’s literally changed the way we see the world and, in my opinion, not always for the better. We have to be careful that social media doesn’t fully consume us.

Authenticity is a word (or hashtag) you see so much these days, but are we all being our true, authentic business selves online? And are our clients seeing a reflection of your business in its authentic form?

I say this as someone who loves our industry inside out. I’m obsessed about hair and mad about colour; creating and innovating is in my blood. But what’s hard for us as an industry is to be true to ourselves, striking a balance between inspiring people while remaining transparent about what can and can’t be achieved, what’s real and what’s Insta-real, so that our clients continue to trust in our ability as technicians – rather than magicians!

While filters can make the ordinary appear to be extraordinary online, it’s our job to reflect an authentic online world where the salon floor reaches directly to your clients’ phone screens. It’s great for your clients to see what you’re capable of in your collections, or on shoots and shows. But it’s so important that they also know what you can create in real life – in real time.

There’s no industry standard in terms of what is being portrayed as achievable or realistic on Instagram, which means we’re having to manage our clients’ expectations to avoid the disappointment of what can and can’t be achieved in the chair. Choose the right filter and, hey presto, your client might look better than your competitor online… but did they really, in real life?

While it’s important to acknowledge all that social media has done for our industry, I long for the day that an even playing field lies before us with #nofilter. I’ll be fully focusing on the perception of my business from the inside out, rather than from the outside in.

Have you got an opinion to share? Let us know @creativeheadmag and we’ll start a conversation 50 | PAINT

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LIVERPOOL 7-10PM, MONDAY 14 OCTOBER

LIVERPOOL, WE’RE COMING FOR YOU… IN A COTERIE FIRST, WE’RE BRINGING THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM SET, SESSION AND SALON RIGHT TO YOUR DOORSTEP!

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