The Outliers

Issue #01 2018

Outliers THE

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WELCOME/CONTENTS

Outliers Definition: person(s) differing from all other members of a particular group or set

Welcome I

t’s not easy out there on the high street right now.

Stores are closing; big name retail brands are disappearing. But there are reasons to be cheerful.

For among the plethora of salons cross the UK and Ireland, there is an identifiable band of business brains that are bucking the trend, both new entrepreneurs and seasoned salon owners.

These are the progressive businesses that are influencing others, creating a buzz, proving themselves as industry innovators and tastemakers who want to illustrate a fresh approach to hairdressing. It’s an exciting time to be one of these salons – they’re killing it on Instagram with their technique- and trend-heavy content, they’re curating fashion-forward service menus to dazzle loyal and new clients alike, they’re challenging all those old rules of what a salon should look like, how they should behave. They are the inspiration – cool, vibrant, business-savvy brands that took the salon model and flipped it 180 degrees. And the thread that unifies them all, part of one illustrious tribe, is their partner of choice in Redken, which itself combines a strong heritage in hairdressing with a fashion-edged pioneering spirit.

Across these pages you’ll meet the individuals and the brands lighting up the industry and leading the way, beacons that illuminate just what is possible. From the urban-centric to adored regional heroes, different is what they all do, and they do it with aplomb.

I hope you find something different that speaks to you, too.

Contents 04 14 18 20 24 26 30 32 36 40 44 46 50

Anti-salons

The disruptors doing salons differently

Brush strokes of genius

We quiz the world’s leading colourists

IDEA! Rogue Blonde

The queens of colour show off their skills at Larry King

The crown jewels

Guido and Josh Wood make a statement at Marc Jacobs

IDEA! Bronde, Blonde and Beyond…

Radio London gets creative with its service menu

Social life for your hair How to make your salon Insta-worthy

Cult of personality

Lee Stafford and Craig Chapman on thinking and acting big

The young & the restless

How to win over a new generation of consumers

Learn, earn and live better

Why education is the key to your career

Local heroes

The regional stars bringing style to the people

IDEA! Ear Candy

Lockonego showcases its earring-friendly styling menu

Let’s get emotional

Rethink your high street presence with Salon Emotion

#OwnIt!

How to really stand out on social media

Amanda Nottage Editor

EDITOR Amanda Nottage DEPUTY EDITOR Beth Davie ART Graeme White ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood CONTRIBUTOR Deborah Murtha ADVERTISING Laura Tucker DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Alison Rowley SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER Jenny Brooks SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR Joanna Andersen PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock Supplement produced in association with Redken. Commissioned portrait photography by Amy Cooke (amycooke.com).

On the cover: Mitchell Wilson of Laundry, Sheffield, photography by Nick Eagle.

CONTACT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk The Outliers is a supplement of Creative HEAD, which is published by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this supplement may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

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Corrado Tevere

We do different

Meet the Anti-salons – the ones that are breaking the mould and offering ultra-modern hair services and experiences to excite today’s style-savvy client Radio Hair Salon & Gallery, King’s Cross @radiohairsalon

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isitors to King’s Cross might get something of a shock. The area’s total transformation has seen it become one of London’s hippest hangouts, home to Central Saint Martins, HQs for Google, Universal Records and design icon Tom Dixon. The first hair salon to establish itself there would need to fit into this new vibe perfectly – step in Radio London.

The concept was to create a multifunctional individual space, a little like a New York warehouse, for clients to experience AND get inspired. Radio incorporated all of its creative activities into it – education, a gallery, and a studio

“Redken has really understood our vision and helps to fulfil it without trying to change it” Corrado Tevere

for photographic work and events. “We thought it was important to create a space that would be able to deliver a different experience from a regular salon,” explains co-founder Corrado Tevere.

Having a photographic studio was vital, as the salon’s editorial work is key to its ethos. “Redken understands our vision and helps to fulfil it without trying to change it,” says Corrado.

For clients, the aim is to give them a tailor-made experience unlike any other. The surroundings at Radio King’s Cross regularly change as the artwork is updated. “The gallery is a real talking point for our clients and constantly brings new energy into the salon,” admits Corrado. The experience has been thoroughly thought out, with Haeckels on offer for beauty treatments and a dedicated barista area serving Allpress Coffee. You’ll also enjoy a rather cinematic experience in the private shampoo area, where silent movies help clients relax.

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ANTI-SALONS

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Mitchell Wilson

ANTI-SALONS

Laundry, Sheffield @wearelaundry

“Y

ou need to be a place where people want to be.” Mitchell Wilson, founder of Sheffield’s Laundry, excels at Yorkshire straight-talking. He makes it out to be simple, but look at Laundry and you know careful thought about what clients want has been applied. And it’s bringing them in… “We’ve established both a name and an ethos,” he says. “If you have great staff then great clients are easy, so it’s vital to develop that certain something special that makes people want to be part of your journey.”

It’s why Laundry recently aligned itself with a new partner. “Redken seems to look at the interesting edges of our industry. I’m not interested in the middle ground, so it’s a good fit,” says Mitchell.

“But the bit that floats my boat is that Redken believes in Laundry’s vision.”

Mitchell’s attitude to his brand’s photoshoots are perhaps the epitome of Laundry’s disruptor status.

“I’m trying to bring a sense of realism.

I’ve nothing against skinny and pretty.

But I do have something against altering the image in post-production beyond recognition, in a bizarre celebration of the photographer’s skill,” he explains. “I’m far more interested in character and trying to do things differently.

“It will set Laundry apart and achieve a level of recognition that yet another set of generic photos just won’t.”

“The bit that floats my boat is that Redken believes in Laundry’s vision” Mitchell Wilson The Outliers 07

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Josh Wood

Josh Wood Colour, Holland Park @joshwoodcolour

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nspired by the concept of the atelier – a bespoke approach to clothing – Josh Wood knew precisely how his own salon would operate. The globe’s most famous colourist explains: “We really felt that a closed-door policy was needed to give our clients privacy and a totally different feeling. I like the idea of curating a space, making it feel different when clients come in.”

That’s why he works with artists to create a variety of installations to continually refresh each room with different, sometimes surprising results.

When it opened seven years ago, Josh admits the Atelier was very much a disruptor. But to keep that edge,

“I like the idea of curating a space, making it feel different when clients come in” Josh Wood

it takes a team of people that art direct the space and keep it feeling different.

“We need to keep evolving and changing the environment. We need to keep pulling in creatives to keep it current,” he explains. “I like to speak to our clients’ interests beyond them getting amazing hair. I want them to feel like the Atelier is an evolving space.”

With such a premium offering and A-list clients in his chairs, the right product partner was a priority. “I love the creativity of Redken, the way it listens and partners with hairstylists,” Josh admits.

“Innovative products are at its core!”

Josh advises anyone keen to take an individual approach to stop thinking about these spaces as salons.

“If there is another service that you can offer, it keeps clients feeling they are in a different space.” Indeed, his team has curated a shop that sells not only hair products but also beauty in general. There are regular pop-ups for brands to launch and showcase new products and a library and in-house chef keep clients’ minds and bodies well-nourished. “I also love to do mini-shoots in our studio generally, just for content for our website or Instagram,” he adds. “Making the Atelier feel like a creative hub is crucial.”

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ANTI-SALONS

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Amanda and Toby Dicker

The Chapel, Royal Tunbridge Wells @thechapelplace

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school house, an old public house, a church building. Even before you set foot in one of The Chapel’s five sites in the South East, you’re aware its salons are unlike others.

And that was the goal from the beginning, back in 2001. “We deliberately set out to be different,” explains co-founder Toby Dicker. “We identified the three key brand values for us – Relaxation, Education and Service. One of our business colleagues at the time said: ‘If you put a T on the end you have REST.’ Then the T became the Tailored part of the experience.”

It was actually Amanda Dicker, cofounder of The Chapel and Toby’s wife, who came up with a new approach, thanks to a glass of wine. Having been travelling and then working in a wine bar, she would sit and talk with women about their hair over a chilled glass. It was sobering stuff.

“They were not really talking about hair, they were talking about their experiences

in the salon. The bits they hated, the bits that made them nervous, the bits that prevented them from moving on with colour or cuts,” she recalls. “I realised I could open a salon that tackled these problems and do something different.”

And so The Chapel today consistently answers the prayers of its clients, and its staff. With clients, it’s about having a conversation rather than a consultation.

The products that creative team work with needed to match that vibe, that approach of doing things differently, which is why the group selected Redken.

“I was looking for a product with personality,” says Amanda. “Redken colour is so clever – it allows natural tones to come through with each individual hair.”

“We deliberately set out to be different” Toby Dicker

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ANTI-SALONS

“C

reate your unique hair story” is the invitation visitors receive at Cult & Bloom. Positioned on Shoreditch’s bustling Commercial Street, the salon offers a much-needed botanical oasis of calm. The team is laser-focused on giving clients a unique experience in a homely, relaxed atmosphere. Colour changes, balayage, highlights and bleaching… yup, customers get the lot, but hair health is a top priority, too.

Having worked in the area before, Max Dolat thought Shoreditch offered the perfect mix of clientele, and he was determined to follow a green mission.

The salon is also hardwired to deliver a premium experience for those looking to escape, if only for a short while. For example, each room has its own fragrance to stimulate the senses. This sense of escape is also aimed at the staff, a key factor in Max’s vision. It’s something unusual, as salon managers are often obsessed with filling columns.

Max Dolat

Cult & Bloom, Shoreditch @cultandbloomsalon “London can be very stressful, and I’ve worked in salons that are challenging environments. I believe that’s why hairdressers can lose their passion – long hours, few days off,” he explains. “I wanted to create an environment that was more chilled for them – we’re all really happy!

Max values the importance of ‘team’, and it’s one of the fundamental attractions of Redken, the line Cult & Bloom stocks.

“I love the family vibe and team spirit of Redken, the energy everyone has,” he says.

“And the clients love it – the No Blow Dry cream is one of our bestsellers… even for blow-drys! Anything that is different, like the Heat Cure treatments or the new All Soft Mega Hair Sheet Mask, it gets their attention, it starts the conversation.”

“I love the family vibe and team spirit of Redken, the energy everyone has” Max Dolat

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Perfect partners Redken Shades EQ is the It-list colour you need to create the latest A-list techniques your clients are asking for Consumer awareness of professional techniques is bigger than ever in 2018.

Techniques that can only be done in the hands of It-list colourists are the game-changer for our industry. Combine with Redken Shades EQ – a formula that can never be bought in a box – and you have the recipe for truly A-list colour results. Join the revolution as Redken gets ready to Shade the Nation!

THE SHADES TO RAVE ABOUT

Expect more from your colour and elevate your colour technique with Shades EQ. It’s a favourite among top colourists for its even results without compromise and colour flexibility, enabling colourists to personalise colour to each client. Hair is left with an incredible glossy shine that’s unlike anything in the market.

Redken brings the gleam with the hottest techniques trending right now…

BALAYAGE BLENDS

Enhance, enrich, change, match, tone down or intensify pre-lightened hair with this technique.

You can also restore colour to highlights, and correct uneven, brassy or overly vibrant tones.

GET GLOSSED

Give clients an unbeatable glossy shine to their dull or damaged hair. Enhance any colour, even virgin hair… or offer any client a quick colour refresh!

Be different. Be Redken.

Want to be part of a new generation colour house? Join the revolution – email Redken at info.redken@loreal.com for a bespoke colour demonstration REDKEN.CO.UK

@REDKEN

REDKENUK

REDKENUKI

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ADVERTORIAL

Peach Bellini featuring @ninaagdal

Cotton Candy

By @bonneyclaire Radio London Pastel placement Using Shades EQ Pastel Pink + Pastel Peach

Glacier Filter

Using Shades EQ Aqua Blue

THE TECHNIQUES Smoked Pearl

By Claire Flack @wigsandwarpaint Using new Shades EQ Natural Ashes 08NA + 06NA + Gel to Cream Solution for root smudge. 09P + 09V + Crystal Clear + Gel to Cream Solution for Zones 2 and 3

Autumn Flame

By @giellygreen Using new Shades EQ Reds Formula 1: 08C + Gloss to Cream solution. Formula 2: 07RR + 08C + Gloss to Cream.

Formula 3: 06RR + Processing Solution. Varying placement of the different formulas

Frost Gloss

Using Shades EQ 07T + 08T The Outliers 13

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Brush strokes of genius

Hair colour has never been this big – thank you Instagram!

We quiz the leading colourists – and a few up-and-comers – about why colour rocks their world

All images courtesy of colourists’ Instagram

Tracey Cunningham, Mèche Salon and Redken creative consultant for colour @traceycunningham1 There are celebrity colourists and then there’s Tracey Cunningham. Adored by the Hollywood elite, including Jennifer Lopez, Drew Barrymore, Charlize Theron and Jessica Biel, the US colourist has become synonymous with creating beautiful, natural colour for stars on the red carpet and in editorials – a far cry from when she started out as Bette Midler’s nanny! After two decades, Tracey remains at the top of her game. Her work has graced the covers of magazines such as W, Allure and Marie Claire, and she opened her own salon, Mèche, with co-owner Neil Weisberg, in 2012. Regularly jetsetting between Dubai, Europe and the Kardashian compounds in California, Tracey is the undisputed leading lady in the colourist world…

I love Redken Shades EQ because… I’ve been a fan and a faithful follower of all things Shades EQ for years.

It’s one of the top three things I can’t live without – that’s in a group with my son and Americano coffee! The formula, range of tones, and shades are just so easy to use – any other colour brand pales in comparison and I’ve tried the lot.

What does a modern client want from a professional colour? Thanks to social media, every girl knows exactly what they want when it comes to beauty nowadays, and that’s especially true of hair colour. This makes my life that much easier. When a client comes into my salon, they immediately get out their iPhone and show me images of celebrities or tastemakers with the hair colour they are going for. Most are my clients already

in those inspiration pictures, so I know exactly how to apply their colour and the results with Shades EQ is always the desired outcome.

How would you describe yourself as a colourist? I know what my strengths are and I understand the limits and I stick to it. I’m not into fads or trends – I just want my clients’ hair to be healthy, manageable, and gorgeous.

What has been the highlight of your career so far? I’ve had so many!

I love my Redken family and I enjoy travelling the globe to educate other hair colourists. The audience and I have a great time and I get to meet all these people who are so supportive of my career. I get to actually meet people I converse with on social media and that means a lot to me.

I just love people and I love this industry.

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COLOURISTS

Craig Purves, Eleven Hair @craigsworldofhair I love Shades EQ because… as a colourist I look for three things in a colour range: creativity, results and hair health – I’ve been using Shades EQ now for 15 years as it hits every one of those points.

Dependable results and incredible shine, with infinite formulation possibilities.

My advice for a young colourist is… Being a successful colourist and getting the most from your career isn’t about being ruthless or waiting for things to just happen. It’s about continually learning and putting yourself out there when you can. When you do well, people notice.

Megan Niccolls, Voodou @meganniccollshair I love Shades EQ because… a few of the reasons it appeals to me is that it doesn’t lift the natural hair colour. This along with the consistency of shades that makes it perfect for colour melting, as well as it adding unbelievable shine.

What does a modern client want from a professional colour?

I think the modern client wants seamless, shiny hair, whether that be a natural balayage to a fashion colour, I always use Redken pH-Bonder, which protects and adds shine – healthy hair is beautiful hair!

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Michelle Marshall, Michelle Marshall @michelle _marshall I love Shades EQ because… it’s so easy to use, it’s very versatile. It moves through the hair easily.

What has been the highlight of your career so far?

There’s been so many highlights, but I guess it would have to be landing a contract to travel to New York four times this year to work at the Redken Exchange on 5th Avenue. I get to work with two really talented colourists there – Lori Zabel and Veronica Ridge.

My advice for a young colourist is…

Say yes to every opportunity. Expect to do a lot of work for free if you want to get into the artistic side of things. Never give up on your dreams, never cut corners with colour, take pride in your work and maintain your integrity.

Harriet Muldoon and Amy Fish, Larry King Salon @amyfishcolour @harrietmuldoon

I love Shades EQ because…

AF: I love the variety of soft shades and the incredible shine and condition.

HM: of the gloss! And with Redken it’s all about bringing back the pH. And there’s a shade for every client.

What does a modern client want from a professional colour?

AF: An effortless colour look that feels fresh and exciting.

HM: It’s not about covering greys – thanks to social media and hashtags, people are getting bolder and braver.

I have to deliver Instagrammable colour.

What’s been the highlight of your career so far?

AF: Winning The It List It Girl award in 2016; going to Paris to colour models’ hair for a Saint Laurent show and building a new colour department at Larry King!

My advice for a young colourist is…

AF: Don’t be afraid to try something new and working hard does really pay off.

HM: Be open and keep working on trends and techniques.

The Artistic Team, Live True @livetruelondon We love Shades EQ because… it completely changed our world in terms of colour. The intensity of the hue and the multitude of possibilities to create the perfect tailor-made colour is our absolute favourite part. We can obtain tones that are incredibly shiny and keep the integrity of the hair at the highest level of strength and quality at the same time. Lately, silver tones are on-trend more than ever and Shade EQ offers a fantastic range of icy toners that are perfect for our clientele.

What is your dream when it comes to your colour career?

The dream is to be able to express to the world how fantastic we are.

When we think about it, colour is more than a passion, it’s a way of being, living and breathing!

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COLOURISTS

Paul Bingham, Lockonego @Pbingham75 I love Shades EQ because… of its incredible shine! It’s a great product that’s got many tones that can be personalised, depending on a client’s need.

Describe yourself as a colourist…

Enthusiastic and approachable. I like to make sure my clients have the best colour experience and service. I do take my job very seriously; I have a lot responsibility as I’m in control of someone’s appearance!

What’s been the highlight of your career so far? Becoming an art director for Toni&Guy was big as it allowed me to teach colour in an academy and to work on hair shows and share my colour work with big audiences. I’d love to become a Redken Artist now – I’m working on it!

Claire Bonney, Radio Hair Salon @bonneyclaire

I love Shades EQ because… it’s a wonder product, its versatility is its most appealing quality.

What does a modern client want from a professional colour?

A ‘look’ unique to them. We use a carefully designed menu based on our continual search for the current and modern, paired with the Radio aesthetic.

We aim to deliver a bespoke experience.

What’s your dream when it comes to your colour career? To work on campaigns and diverse creative projects, hopefully increasing my travel, too… and years from now maybe work on producing a colour product range!

Samantha Cusick, Samantha Cusick London @samanthacusicklondon I love Shades EQ because… it is the colour that everyone is using on Instagram. They were creating these blondes and I wanted to do that, too!

Those biscuit blondes that are bright but they’re ash? They’re everything! I found the techniques and then it was about getting the right toner. One of the biggest trends is no warmth.

What does a modern client want from a professional colour… and how are you delivering? Everybody wants that bespoke, tailored approach.

Clients are really good at knowing what they want now.

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Rogue Blonde

South Kensington’s Larry King Salon gets fierce with its blondes with a colour menu that’s up front and a little bit punk

SAY HELLO TO THE Class of 2018, graduating from the fingeron-the-pulse Larry King Salon.

The question is, how rogue will you go? That’s Rogue Blonde, the unifying theme from Larry and his queens of colour, Harriet Muldoon and Amy Fish. This colour-rich collection is all about taking a little bit of an anarchic approach to blonde this season, it’s the art class muse, playing with pastel shades and more

Misty

Clarisse

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vibrant streaks and finished with a laissez-faire attitude that’s a little bit raw, very real and relatable, and naturally covetable. “Women want to feel like they’re being taken seriously,” explain Amy and Harriet. “The long, loose waves we’ve seen in the past few years can cover so much of the face and feel a bit staged in the world of New Feminism. It’s about being individual and bold – it’s like power dressing for hair.”

This first collection from Larry King Salon, with all looks using Redken colour and styling products, is steeped in late ’80s rock and early ‘90s grunge references, with a smattering of Supers and a smidge of punk, too. Think Courtney Love, Drew Barrymore, Winona Ryder. And for the boys, Larry’s team is crushing hard on Leonardo Di Caprio circa Romeo+Juliet.

You had us at Winona – we’re ready to go full rogue...

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“Women want to feel like they’re being taken seriously… it’s about being individual and bold – it’s like power dressing for hair” AMY FISH AND HARRIET MULDOON

Styling by The Styling Team at Larry King using Redken. Colour by Queens of Colour at Larry King using Redken. Make-up by Jade Farmiloe. Photography by Phoebe Fox.

Courtney

Nancy

BRIGHT IDEA

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The crown jewels

This page: photography by James Cochrane

From fuchsia to chartreuse, wedge cuts to side points, the Marc Jacobs A/W18 show was a masterclass in statement hair. Josh Wood and Guido, the backstage leads creating the hair looks with Redken, lift the lid on how the story came together

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MARC JACOBS A/W18

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Josh Wood (left) and Guido backstage at Marc Jacobs

n a show that saw 80 per cent of the models donning hats, you know it must have been pretty spectacular hair on the remainder to have ended up on the cover of The New York Times. That was down to the talent of session stars Josh Wood and Guido.

An illustration of the power of collaboration, the duo worked with the designer to deliver a darker take on ’80s nostalgia, referencing classic Sassoon techniques with the cuts, and neon from an ’80s nightclub for the colour. It was a fusion that excited the world of fashion, something that isn’t so easy to do in 2018.

Marc had a clear view about what he wanted to create, looking at a very specific time in the ’80s using extreme silhouettes. “It felt night time, colourful but in a dark way,” says Guido, global creative director for Redken. “I went back to what had an impact

on me at the beginning of my career. I started at Sassoon, those haircuts were my blueprint for hairdressing.” After each model was cut, colour took over.

The designer set Josh the task of colour-matching every single piece of fabric the models would be wearing. The Redken global color creative director found it all reassuring. “With designers, colour is so subjective. We had 20 samples of fabric that we were trying to match to the hair. It’s much easier than Marc saying ‘I want a fuschia pink’, because his fuschia is very different to Guido’s fuschia… there were goals we were trying to achieve,” he explains.

“The more clear the brief, the easier it is to deliver.”

It was an intensive project.

Three days of conversations before anyone arrived at the test, and then three 20-hour days with Josh’s team working in shifts.

And some shades were more of a challenge, namely chartreuse.

“We had to bleach the hair to a very specific shade of mustard to avoid a banana yellow. It still needed a lot of underlying pigment to get that green-gold. That was done five times,” Josh admits.

In fact, three formulas were fused together. Formula one (Redken City Beats in High Line Green) was blurred into formula two (Redken City Beats in Yellow Cab plus a drop of Redken City Beats in Times Square Teal) and blurred into formula three (Redken City Beats in High Line Green + Redken City Beats in Yellow Cab plus a drop of Redken City Beats in Brooklyn Blue).

“We were up and down those stairs in the Marc Jacobs studio.

Precision colour, where placement is everything, is not easy to do over a kitchen sink.”

The end result was one that thrilled both designer and the wider fashion world alike. The models in question have since been used in the Marc Jacobs seasonal campaign and used

by Guido in a magazine shoot.

And it was a first for Josh Wood, seeing himself name-checked in the show notes. “It was a career highlight for me,” says Josh. “Marc said that what I’d done exceeded expectations, he’d never seen colour like that. It’s a pretty proud moment when you’re allowed to do something for a genius and you’re introducing them to something rather than just meeting their expectations.”

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All rights reserved. 2018

Teddy Quinlivan (right), Teddy Quinlivan (right), Leomie Anderson and Leigh Lezark Leomie Anderson and Leigh Lezark (left) (left) for Redken 5th Avenue for Redken 5th Avenue

LACQUER YOUR HAIR WITH LIQUID COLOR

NEW COLOR GELS LACQUERS

LOW AMMONIA. LOCKED-IN SATURATION. LACQUER SHINE.

Permanent liquid color reinvented. Get rich, saturated results with high impact shine. Now with Color Gels Lacquers and Shades EQ you have the perfect liquid color pair for up to 100% coverage and an easy refresh on Zones 2-3. #ColorGelsLacquers

Bronde, Blonde and Beyond

Beyond Silver

Bronde

Beyond Pink

Beyond Silver

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Let’s get creative and colourful with this savvy service menu from Radio Hair Salon & Gallery in London’s King’s Cross, all created in collaboration with Redken for a plethora of pastel possibilities… and beyond!

HT IDE

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“She shows confidence and control, all while looking relaxed and cool” CORRADO TEVERE

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Hair and concept by Radio Artistic Team. Make-up by Liz Marsden. Photography by JC Verona.

Blonde

Beyond Pink

BRIGHT IDEA

IN RADIO HAIR Salon & Gallery’s new Kings Cross location, there’s a space that’s primed for the team to shoot their work on a regular basis.

And the windows in the newlygenerated and achingly-cool Kings Cross neighbourhood showcase just what this rather brilliantly talented team can do. Currently being showcased is its Bronde, Blonde and Beyond service menu, created in collaboration with Redken and cleverly tapping into consumer lust for Instagramworthy colour. It’s a simple yet impactful collection of images for clients to engage with. “Emulating a ‘Parisian chic’, the Bronde is elegant yet cool,” explains Radio’s founder Corrado Tevere. Here, the team showcase looks for clients wanting low-commitment colour, and a more natural and blended finish. Blondes? Well, they’ll always be a big colour business driver, and the line-up here includes high impact tones.

“She shows confidence and control, all while looking relaxed and cool,” explains Corrado, while another look that’s a brighter, vivid finish makes regrowth a feature, gives this baby blonde an edge, and makes visits to the salon less frequent. Beyond Pink offers the most playful look, alongside Beyond Silver, which has a fierce personality. “The colour hue is soft yet very bold,” he smiles, “it’s sophisticated with lots of edge.” We think Radio’s clients will be spoiled for choice. What to go for first?

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Social life It’s not just about the hair at these salons, it’s also about ‘the hang’.

See how Larry King and Samantha Cusick have crafted their salons and their swagger, to ensure clients are sharing to the max

Larry King, Larry King, South Kensington @LarryKingHair

Larry King at Larry King Salon

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earch #LarrysWorld on Instagram and you’ll soon see why Larry King has all the beauty press a-flutter and a long list of celebrity clients and editorial credits. This canny use of social media has really helped drive the success of the Larry King salon in South Kensington beyond that of just another cool London hairdressers. “It’s not just about getting your hair done,” he explains, “it’s about hanging out, having a coffee outside, meeting your mates while they’re getting a blow-dry. I want this to be a community…” No wonder the #sociallifeforyourhair hashtag he’s created is gaining such traction.

Alongside his wife and business partner, Laura, Larry has crafted a salon that is the epitome of social FOR social (media, that is). It’s a mix of stunning decor that makes various angles and scenes utterly Instagrammable. A fusion of East End cool with West End luxury, Larry describes the design as “industrial elegance”, all grey shades, high gloss tiles, wooden floors and bespoke granite work stations. And it’s a continual evolution: as he and Laura find more interesting pieces to pepper the place, the salon’s look will evolve further.

A key element is Larry’s partnership with Redken.

“It’s such an influential brand, especially in the US. Here, it’s

been more of a sleeping giant. You know it has Guido, but it’s making great strides and Josh Wood has come on board, too. The products tick every box – it’s an abundance of innovation.”

From the pavement seating outside to the library of fashion books and the Copper Dog-stocked drinks trolley in reception, the hang element of the salon is clear. It’s not stuffy; it’s fun, friendly and you’ll want to stay a while.

“This is also a place where you want to take pictures, which is all for social media but it also feels like home,” Larry adds. “There are different areas of the salon where you can capture those moments.”

Examples include the ‘Loo with a View’ and the all-pink bathroom in the basement. There’s even a selfie seat, and it leads to organic advertising for his salon and team, while creating “Instagram envy” for his potential clients.

No wonder Pixie Lott and David Gandy include their snip visits on their own Instagram pages…

“This is also a place where you want to take pictures, which is all for social media but it also feels like home” Larry King The Outliers 27

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rom the palm fronds to the millennial pink and the flamingo icons, the Samantha Cusick London salon is an Instagrammer’s dream.

Samantha herself has curated the concept with care and detail to make sure that the client experience appeals to… well, her!

“I’m the target market,” she says. “I’m 30; our aim is 25 to late 30s and I was thinking: ‘There’s nowhere I would want to go and get my hair done. What would I want?’ Good music, a nice place to sit, stuff to do like paint your nails, nice drinks. It’s somewhere to hang out and have fun… and you’re going to leave with good hair!”

This Nottingham-born stylist knows the start of the client’s journey begins when they find your salon online. So visit the salon’s site or Instagram and you’ll know precisely what this brand is about. “When they walk through the door it’s consistent with that,” she agrees. “Everything is pretty and organised, the staff are friendly and engaging, and you get to know them on social media, which is important. It takes away that ‘front’; that old experience of walking into a hairdressers and everyone looking you up and down. As soon as someone comes

in they feel like they know us already, it puts them at ease and they have a better experience.”

When you have bloggers with huge followings sat in your chair think Zoella and Tanya Burr – it’s understandable that you’re going to think about your business through that filter, and Samantha admits that she draws inspiration from them whenever they visit.

So, what’s the secret? “It’s always about being yourself; as soon as you’re not, then what’s the point?” she questions. “Don’t do anything you don’t feel comfortable with, because then you lose credibility.”

And think about your lighting, too. “My friend, the blogger Em Ford, sent me a ring light two years ago, and all the package said was ‘#instagramupgrade!’” she laughs. “It gave our shots a whole new life. It makes a big difference.

You can’t rely on natural light.”

Again, it’s about that client experience – everyone feels more comfortable with the light because “you look more glowy,” she smiles.

“It’s somewhere to hang out and have fun… and you’re going to leave with good hair!”

Samantha Cusick

Samantha Cusick at Samantha Cusick London

Samantha Cusick Samantha Cusick London, Notting Hill @SamanthaCusickLondon

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The cult of personality You might think big, but do you act big? We ask Lee Stafford and Craig Chapman how their personas have impacted their careers

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Craig Chapman Hair Design

CULT OF PERSONALITY

Lee Stafford

@leestaffordhair

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erhaps the very definition of ‘personality’, the charming, funny and straight-talking Lee Stafford was a breath of fresh air when he hit big in the ’90s. He was real, and his neon pink and Staffie dog branding was unlike anything seen elsewhere in hair. And what still comes across, is his warmth and his passion for the industry.

Having spent the first six years of his career in his mum’s living room in Essex, he admits “I didn’t learn in the conventional sense, so I had to go on lots of training courses”. This gave him a unique perspective on the variety of hair education out there.

He points to one example: “when I used to sit in that training room, you could hear a pin drop.

Everyone was scared to ask a question – well I wasn’t! – and the people up there would talk, talk, talk. That’s not very empowering for anybody,” he bristles.

It’s one of the reasons why today he is laser-focused on Lee Stafford Education, currently running in 13 UK colleges. He’s determined to raise the standard of young stylists leaving college and ensure they’re work-ready.

“Redken empowers people through the way it coaches” Lee Stafford

Craig Chapman

@craigchapmanhair

M This passion for education is also why his love affair with Redken still burns bright – he admits that even after 30 years he’s never used any other industry brand. “Lots of product houses do great products, but for me it’s always about the way Redken empowers people through the way it coaches. It will encourage you to ask a question early on and they will make you feel special,” he explains. “It knocked me sideways back then, and it still knocks me sideways today.”

Lee is a prime example of success coming from a drive within – he has powered his own success. “One of Redken’s mantras is to encourage individuality – there’s no-one like you, there’s no-one like me,” he explains.

“I’ve learned that if you copy you’ll get nowhere. You have to be innovative, and the only way to be innovative as a person is to be yourself. You’ll be original, and you’ll stand out for that.”

any might think of Cornwall as a rather sleepy place; but Launceston-based Craig Chapman is anything but sleepy. The 2017 Most Wanted Creative Talent winner is a fizzing ball of energy who runs a brilliantly successful salon in Cornwall and also balances that with a busy session and TV career (he’s on his third season of The Voice). Oh, and he’s launched a talent agency. “Well, if you want to make it big, there’s no time to be a shrinking violet!” he laughs.

But raising a profile outside your salon area when you’re from a small Cornish town isn’t the easiest thing to achieve. And that’s where his agency HAIRDOTCOM found its roots, explains Craig.

“This was designed not only to expand my career, but also to provide opportunities for stylists

to work in London without having to make the move there.”

On one show alone, Craig and his cohorts looked after 60 people, including dancers, bands and choirs, all with the help of a kit bag stuffed with Redken products.

“The very first day I started was a Redken training day!” he grins.

“Its education ethos always has been so strong.”

So, what’s the secret to such a successful career outside of a big city? “Being happy is so important as it makes people want to work with you,” he says. “Of course there are moments to be serious, but I try and be the best version of me at all times.”

“If you want to make it big, there’s no time to be a shrinking violet!”

Craig Chapman

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The young and the restless VOODOU, Liverpool @voodouliverpool

General manager Victoria Buckley and founder Rob Webb

Young consumers are used to doing it themselves – but these salons are winning them over and into their chairs…

“We’re passionate about being individual and we encourage that in our stylists” Victoria Buckley 32 The Outliers

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YOUNG AND RESTLESS

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ever stand still and constantly reinvent yourself, that’s the drive that underpins the brilliantly buzzy Voodou in Liverpool. From unicorn colours to super-long extensions, Voodou is a firm favourite among the beautyobsessed from Bootle and beyond. “We’re not afraid to experiment and one of our greatest strengths as a salon is that we have an large team with differing skills,” says general manager, Victoria Buckley.

“We collaborate to make sure those skills and experiences are drawn upon to achieve the best results for each client.”

For customers who want hair that inspires Instagram envy, Voodou has it covered. “Our social media and online presence has been strong for sometime, and at the heart of that is our Instagram account, which shows off the amazing talent in Voodou,” says Victoria. “It’s a massively important reference point for younger clients seeking inspiration and reassurance about a hairdressing brand.”

She admits that the social side has been “a massive learning curve”. “The key is to keep on top of new platforms and new techniques,” she explains.

“The biggest challenge for any salon is getting the stylist to understand how important social media is to building their own columns. Generally, the 18-30 age group no longer Google for salons; they search out salons on Instagram, so you need images and videos and the stylists need to be up for providing that. We have been lucky that stylists have got on board and have amazing work to show off.”

It’s that obsession with creative work and reinvention that Victoria believes puts them ahead of their rivals. “We’re passionate about being individual and we encourage that in our stylists and our clients,” she says. “Where others may see ‘challenge’ we see ‘opportunity’. We are fearless – people seek us out for that ultimate transformation because they trust us to get it right.” And that’s where Redken is the perfect partner – Victoria loves the cool New York vibe and its sense of ‘can-do’. “It’s a great brand fit for us.”

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Adam Reed (left) and Paul Percival

PERCY AND REED EAST, Spitalfields @percyandreedsalons

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salon experience that seamlessly fuses some serious cut and colour know-how with a laid-back, effortlessly cool vibe befitting of an East London postcode – welcome to Percy & Reed East, the second salon in Paul Percival and Adam Reed’s hair empire.

East, in the bustling Spitalfields area, followed five years after the launch of West, in Great Portland Street. “We wanted to head to East London because that’s where I did most of my original creative work – there are so many photographic studios around here,” says Adam. With bags of character, the decor is retro yet slick, with many of the trademark characteristics remaining from its time spent as a base for tomato and banana merchants (like the colour accents and the air-holes still in the walls, which used to circulate air to keep the fruit fresh).

It’s eminently Instagrammable, which has no doubt won the attention of local young hipsters when making their choice of salon to visit. Yet individual touches dotted around the salon remove all traces of pretentiousness, such as the selection of Adam’s personal book collection on the

“Why Redken? They’re bloody great products, that’s why! We love the connection with Guido and how he’s genuinely involved in product development” Paul Percival and Adam Reed shelves, the entertaining graffiti quotes on various parts of the furnishings and various childhood mementos (though it’s the bathroom that steals the limelight,

with its eclectic selection of framed, vintage, kooky pictures that are certainly worth a look at). And it’s deeply personal: look around and you’ll spot the wigs Percy & Reed created for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final show, and there’s a huge chair presented as a gift from the singer Will Young.

Why did Paul and Adam chose to partner with Redken at Percy & Reed East? “They’re bloody great products, that’s why!” they chorus. “We love the connection with Guido and how he’s genuinely involved in product development,” continues Adam. “Redken is a brand that’s packed with integrity and authenticity.”

“There’s real innovation,” adds Paul.

“Redken understands the consumer and intuitively knows what product they’re going to want next.”

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YOUNG AND RESTLESS

WIGS AND WARPAINT, Sheffield @wigsandwarpaint

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ou can tell from the decidedly retro logo of Yorkshire salon Wigs and Warpaint that this isn’t your average hairdressers. In the bustling city of Sheffield, it has firmly established itself over the past decade as a fun, creative destination for all things hair, and that’s all been designed with the client in mind. “It can be quite intimidating, coming into a big salon,” admits Claire Flack, the salon’s creative and managing director. “You know from our styling that we’re fun and vibrant – and it all works for the client.”

And while that customer base covers all ages, there is a wealth of younger

“You know from our styling that we’re fun, we’re vibrant – and it all works for the client” Claire Flack clients; Sheffield is a thriving student hub, home to two large universities. The salon celebrated its 10th anniversary by collaborating on a fashion show with students from Sheffield Hallam – Wigs

and Warpaint looked after the hair as models hit the catwalk, sporting garments from fashion students as well as a local designer. It’s this kind of activity that helps the salon stand out. “With our system we can tailor deals as we need to, such as when a stylist is quiet, we can really target them.”

If those younger clients are working to a budget, there are plenty of bespoke services to suit them. “The new Flash Lift Express Blonde from Redken is a quicker highlighting service for which we can charge a little bit less,” explains Claire.

“Technique and toners play their part too – all services you can’t get in a box at home. “We’re always trying to think up cute little names for the tones we use, and make that service as personal as we can for that customer,” Claire adds.

And naturally, all these tones and techniques are shared on its social media.

“We want people to get a feel for the salon, rather than just seeing beautiful, professional pictures. We show the salon inside, the team, what we’re all doing, real customers…” Like plenty of the local students, we like what we see.

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Redken Symposium

Learn, earn and live better

Your school days might be behind you, but to keep growing and improving, education is key.

The right course or mentor can make all the difference in your career trajectory, so when you pick an education partner, make sure you pick a brand that’s as unique as you

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ichael Jackson once said that “the greatest education in the world is watching the masters at work” – a perfect maxim for stylists and colourists. And in the world of hair, education can mean so much more than a teacher and a classroom. It can offer you opportunities to not just broaden your mind, but potentially travel the world, too.

Salon owner, Michelle Marshall found this when she attended the International Redken Artist Connection. The threeday education event brings together 800 Redken artists from around the world and focuses on everything from the business of colouring to lifestyle and wellbeing.

This year’s event took place in Austin, Texas and left Michelle feeling “really fired up and refreshed”. Opportunities to travel and experience new ways of learning are just a small part of what is on offer

to salons. Forward-thinking brands are those on a mission to work with industry innovators and businesses that bring a fresh approach to hairdressing to then filter this down to the salons and stylists.

But what makes Redken education so different? Primarily it’s principles-based.

This means that its principles guide how the brand approaches training. The brand wants to help you Learn Better, Earn Better and Live Better, and its range of courses reflects this.

“I’ve been supported every step of the way…

It’s thanks to Redken’s commitment that I’m the hairdresser I am today” Kelly Scott

The strong heritage of Redken means that it understands how transforming education can be, and its tribe of regional heroes running courses up and down the country drive home this message.

“In a Redken classroom they will encourage you to ask a question early on, and they will make you feel very special.

They throw it back to the whole room and that brings the room alive,” says Lee Stafford, educator and Redken global artist. “It’s really about coaching and facilitation, Redken believes the answer is in the room.”

Global artists

AJ Blackadder is a Redken Tribe member and has spent the past 18 months being mentored by Redken in New York and London’s Redken Exchanges, as part of the brand’s Global Mentoring

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Kelly Scott

EDUCATION

Programme. “It’s been an amazing and, at times, challenging course, but I’ve learnt so much to help me educate, present and facilitate to an international standard that Redken artists use worldwide,” says AJ. “It’s been great to be the student and embrace a new way of doing something I’ve had the privilege of doing for decades.”

AJ attends as many educational opportunities as possible. “You’re exposed to a variety of education and events that Redken offers. Whether it’s design or colouring, new product launches and updates, guest artist events, such as when Guido and Josh Wood did Creative HEAD’s The Coterie last year, European and Las Vegas Symposiums right through to fundamental and advanced specialist programmes; there’s courses, events and coaching for everyone,” he adds.

Symposium

But learning doesn’t stop there, as Michelle Marshall discovered when she attended the Redken Symposium in Las Vegas. The Symposium is a chance for Redken stylists from all over the world to get together and learn, network and be inspired by some of the most sought-after educators in the world.

“I had the opportunity to meet with the ambassadors for the brand, while attending a variety of educational seminars,” explains Michelle. “It completely opened my eyes to what you can do and how you can work as a team. I came back stronger and better.”

Personalisation

Learning happens everywhere – in the classroom, at events, but also in your salon. Bespoke in-salon training is perfect for those that don’t want to sing from the same hymn sheet as everyone else. Redken offers you the opportunity to tailor your education to exactly what you and your team need, on a rolling monthly basis.

In-salon education can offer you and your salon the chance to receive targeted knowledge, helping to fill in any gaps in your team’s skills repertoire.

Keith Owen from Owen Hair Design teaches Redken courses more than he attends them now, but he still tries to ensure the salon team receives in-salon training from Redken whenever possible. “We prefer to get the whole team involved with training, and it’s easier and more cost effective to do it in-salon,” he says.

Cost is a key consideration. For salons with already stretched budgets, education is often the first thing to go. Not only is it time out of the salon, but not all courses turn out to be as relevant as initially hoped.

With in-salon training, you have the opportunity to hand-pick the courses you want your team to get clued up on, while bringing the costs more in-line with your budget. No matter what, never stop learning. Start your training today, for a better, brighter future.

DIARY DATES

Kelly Scott, artistic director at Strands Hairdressing and Redken global artist, reveals how far Redken can take you “I HAD MY FIRST experience of Redken education when I was just 16 years old. It was a product knowledge class and I had no idea how far I would come or the opportunities that awaited me back then. As my career developed, Redken has always been present.

I attended my first Redken Symposium when I was 21 and that is what changed everything for me. I was a senior stylist confident in my craft and I wanted to get on that stage and be an international Redken artist.

Since then, I’ve been supported every step of the way by Redken. I teach at Redken’s London and Manchester Exchanges, as well as at New York’s Exchange on 5th Avenue. I also provide personalised in-salon training, I’ve travelled across the world for the brand and met and worked with some truly great and inspiring people. I’ve also presented on stage for many of Redken’s big events. We are now planning 2019’s Symposium – it’s going to be amazing and I can’t wait.

“The thing I love most about Redken education is that it’s learningfocused. It’s all about the people that come to your classes. Helping them achieve their outcomes, giving them new methods that will help them be better at what they do every day.

It’s all in the motto ‘Learn Better, Earn Better so you can Live your Best Life.’

Redken also has a great programme to support its artists.

“We all support each other, we are responsible for each other and just as I want to do my best work, so do others.

It’s thanks to Redken’s commitment that I’m the hairdresser I am today.”

THE THREE KEY REDKEN COURSES TO INCLUDE IN YOUR EDUCATION CALENDAR Creative Business Coaching Journey with Carolyn Sweeney On this four-day course, salon owners and managers will learn how to motivate stylists to increase clients bills, additional services and retail.

4You can also attend individual dates as standalone sessions.

When and where: 5 September, 26 September, 23 October, 14 November, London Your Future Color – with international Redken artist AJ Blackadder Discover how to plan, progress and evolve your client’s colour journey, while reigniting your passion for colour and growing your clientele.

When and where: 15 October, London Game of Blondes with Kelly Scott and adam browne This two-day course comes straight from NYC and will give you all the tips and tricks you need. Learn how to identify the products and techniques to make your blondes the very best.

When and where: 22 and 23 October, London

TO BOOK, VISIT LOREALACCESS.COM/UK

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RECRUITMENT

WANT TO BE DIFFERENT? DO YOU WANT TO BE PART OF A DYNAMIC BRAND COMMITTED TO INDUSTRY INNOVATION? DO YOU WANT TO BE PART OF AN EXCITING NEW MOVEMENT IN HAIR? WANT TO LEARN, EARN AND LIVE BETTER?

IF THIS IS YOU, REDKEN WANTS YOU Redken is exploding. We are looking for talented, modern industry enthusiasts to join our Tribe in Commercial and Education roles nationwide.

WANT TO BE A PART OF IT? Get in touch today. Email us at info.redken@loreal.com to find out more.

HERE COME THE GELS..

THE REDKEN COLOR REVOLUTION STARTS HERE!

DISCOVER THE NEW LIQUID LACQUERS THAT ARE REINVENTING PERMANENT HAIR COLOR! WITH ADAM BROWNE, INTERNATIONAL REDKEN ARTIST

Join Adam and other leading industry influencers for inspirational nights of color, with live model transformations and techniques.

EVENT DATES: 10TH SEPTEMBER – LONDON 17TH SEPTEMBER – MANCHESTER 24TH SEPTEMBER – BRISTOL WANT TO BE A PART OF IT? Contact your Sales Consultant to book an event.

Not Redken? Want to find out more? Contact info.redken@loreal.com

EVENT

Local heroes

Beyond London and the UK’s biggest cities there are booming salon businesses that have blossomed over decades. What’s the secret to their continuing success? Let’s find out…

David Anthony, Portsmouth

“We’ve had some clients bring in children for their first haircuts… and now they’re bringing in their own children!”

David Hyde

“THE SECRET IS the team, admits David Hyde, founder of 37-year-old David Anthony salon in Portsmouth. That’s what he puts his success down to – with five colleagues who have been with him for more than 25 years, it’s a consistency that clients love, a continuity. “They know our faces, so our clients do feel like they’re coming into a family,” he smiles. “There’s a lovely closeness.

We’ve had some clients bring in children for their first haircuts… and now they’re bringing in their own children! It’s lovely.”

Having been laser-focused to own his own salon by the age of 21, David worked hard and saved even harder to achieve that goal, with two months to spare. “I’m very driven, and you’ve got to move

with the times,” he admits. “I still train, attend launches, and that is part of it – I enjoy that. It’s very easy in hairdressing to fall behind.”

Education is a priority, and it’s here that his product partner of 25 years, Redken, has excelled.

“The support we get from Redken is immense; we’re not a London salon and through Redken we get to work with names I don’t think we’d see otherwise, like Lee Stafford and AJ Blackadder. And they come to us, spending a whole day with the team. It’s brilliant.”

And the family vibe isn’t confined to the salon. “Redken feels like part of the team, we’re part of a tribe,” he says fondly.

“We go to events and we know the other salons there, and there’s no rivalry. We’re all in it together.”

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LOCAL HEROES

Aesthetics, Solihull

THE EXCITEMENT with which Sarah Bowron, co-founder of Aesthetics with partner Adrian Bowron, approaches her brand and her team is palpable. “We’re always looking ahead – what’s done is done,” she says bluntly.

Recognising how time-poor people are now, Aesthetics wants to ensure “clients are enjoying their time with us, and that they’ll leave buzzing with new ideas – not just hair, but how we’ve done the flowers or the coffee”. Sarah puts the brand’s longevity down to being authentic and doing really, really good hair. Training has also been vital. “We invest massively in our team, have regular meetings and ‘play dates’. Every salon owner knows you are only as good as the people you’re working with.”

Retail has also been a huge success (a change in pricing strategy has seen sales rise £6,000 in its first two months), and Sarah stresses the importance of value.

“When you get to front of house, the bill can look expensive. A complimentary bottle of Redken shampoo and conditioner softens it,” she explains. “The client’s perceived value is way higher than the actual value to the salon, and that’s a £150 or more colour or extensions service for the salon, so it’s a win-win.”

“Every salon owner knows you are only as good as the people you’re working with” Sarah Bowron

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Creations, Chichester

“IF YOU cut me, CAT comes out of my veins! I’m Redken for life!” Carolyn Sweeney’s laugh is infectious; a warmth and intelligence radiate from her as she discusses her 20-year-old salon, and her adored team, 80 per cent of whom have been with her for more than 10 years. And it’s the team she cites as the secret of Creations’ success. “If you don’t keep educating and get the team right, you won’t have client longevity,” she says simply.

But it’s also about cash flow, she adds, and being in control of your own finances. “We all have good and bad times, but cash is king. You’ve got to make sure that the money is in the bank before you invest in anything. And the team needs to know that – if they

want education or new basins, the money has to come from somewhere,” she says. As soon as someone graduates from the Creations Academy, they’re expected to attend three Redken colour courses – Highlights, Color ER and Principals of Color, to ensure everyone is fully immersed in the world of Redken colour.

It’s this level of skill and craft that Carolyn believes should be pushing salon owners to increase their prices. “Our industry still desperately under-charges for what we do. Deliver beautiful hairdressing and charge for what you deliver… and stop being scared. Aren’t you better off with one haircut at £50 than two cuts at £25? There is no other industry holding prices down like ours!”

“If you don’t keep educating and get the team right, you won’t have client longevity” Carolyn Sweeney

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LOCAL HEROES

Strands Hairdressing, Fareham “THERE’S NO SECRET – it’s just doing it!” exclaims Pauline Howe, the brains behind Hampshire’s Strands Hairdressing salons, when asked about her success. Strands is now 31 years old and a prime example of a regional salon that thinks big (just ask Kelly Scott, a global Redken artist who works here). “Sometimes people think you’ll open the doors and it’ll be a success overnight, but business isn’t like that,” she laughs. “If you do something that you really like, and you do it for long enough, you’ll be successful. ” It’s that work ethic that hums along in Strands. “You and your staff need to keep up-to-date with the industry and trends, because things are always moving. As I get older, I have to ensure my salon

stays top in the area, that people want to talk about and visit.”

How does she do it? “You need to read magazines like Creative HEAD and attend events.

It is difficult to stay interested and motivated. Sometimes I’m guilty of thinking ‘I’ve done that before’, but the young stylists in the salon haven’t. You need to feed from their enthusiasm.”

The choice of brand partner has also been instrumental.

“Choose one that fits your salon, develop a really good relationship.

For us, this is Redken,” she adds.

“You and your staff need to keep up-to-date with the industry and trends, because things are always moving” Pauline Howe

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BRI

HT IDE A

G

The Ear Candy Styling Menu Chelsea favourites Lockonego London collaborate with Redken on a styling menu that’s bang on trend with the piercing craze, and perfect for any party those chic Sloanes will be attending‌

Side Sweep

The Slick

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BRIGHT IDEA

WANNA BE ADORNED? Any glance across Instagram will illustrate the worth of a statement earring – US jeweller Maria Tash launched her piercing palace in

London’s iconic Liberty and Milan Fashion Week catwalks were heaving with earrings (we’re looking at you, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana). So, if your clients have spent their pounds piercing up a storm, they’ll want to show off that bling. Enter statement hair from Chelsea favourites Lockonego London and its Ear Candy menu, by salon co-founder Jonathan Long (pictured inset).

Perfect for those with exhibitionistic ears and look-at-

Braided Bun

me lobes, the menu uses iconic backstage styling products from Redken to create inspirational styles that are adaptable to a client’s hair texture and length.

It’s a great example of a business bringing a wider trend into a salon, and spot-on for party looks (plenty of those in Chelsea).

There are four styles that will give any ear the exposure it deserves, with prices starting from £35. But what to choose?

Side Sweep is inspired by the ’90s

Super, a deep side-parting with undone luxe waves exposing your one-sided ear candy, while The Slick is a contrasting collaboration – wet up front, dry and textured at the back, with hair tucked behind both ears to display adorned lobes. The Braided Bun is a ‘3-in-1’ up-do pinned into place with jewels on show, while Sideshow Bob celebrates a classic blunt bob cut with personality. Time to get your rocks on…

Sideshow Bob

“Perfect for those with exhibitionistic ears and look-at-me lobes, the menu uses iconic backstage styling products from Redken to create inspirational styles” The Outliers 45

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“We have opened up our retail area so clients feel free to look, touch and feel the products, and this has worked wonderfully” Jonathan Long, Lockonego

Let’s get emotional

T

he UK high street is an increasingly tough place to operate. Today, 200,000 fewer women are walking into hair salons compared with a year ago.* With a saturated market, rising online players and declining visits, the in-person experience has never been more valuable. Consider the journey of your client through her appointment with you, and it might just make all the difference.

Creating a space that people want to visit – to linger and relax in – makes a big difference to loyalty, to trust and to spend. Novelty and service challenge that loyalty; it means that the pressure is on salons to stay relevant for their clients. L’Oréal Professional Product Division’s transformative Salon Emotion

programme has targeted a similar agenda.

It’s about offering training and raising awareness of services, personalised advice and guidance on modernising salons; providing more services and more personalisation throughout a client’s journey through the salon at every possible touchpoint.

When Chelsea’s Lockonego suffered a flood, co-founder Jonathan Long used it as an opportunity to revamp the salon’s concept from scratch. “We worked with Salon Emotion and the designer to plan out the retail, backwash and mask bar concepts,” explains Jonathan. “We came up with a concept: a private members club/gastro pub vibe. It has bare brick, parquet floor, wood panels, splashes of

colour... but, most of all, a salon that didn’t look like a traditional salon, a really light and open environment.”

At Blend in Derby, Jo Pilbeam’s experience with the programme has helped her future-proof her salon against online retail. “Salon Emotion was great at helping us to create a proper client journey. We like to get the clients involved by touching and smelling products on our Try Me Table, where you can have a play.

Creating a retail area has been great for customer experience, and makes it feel like a retail shop.”

But how to get people through the salon door in the first place? It’s a challenge. The average attention span has dropped from 12 seconds to just eight.*

Lockonego

The high street needs to rethink how it engages consumers if it wants them to keep spending.

We investigate how to get people through the salon doors… and wow them while they’re there!

46 The Outliers

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reaching for Pinterest boards for his insalon consultations.

Consultations are also brilliant at helping sell products – in fact, 90 per cent of the sale is made during the consultation.* How? Because this is where a hairdresser can illustrate their knowledge and expertise, and genuinely recommend the perfect matches to each guest sat chatting to them.

A vital element of this is the notion of ‘retailment’, showcasing your skills in front of your customer, use tools to diagnose the ideal treatment and prescribe a homecare regime. It’s also about creating moments of theatre to thrill and excite.

The colour bar is a chance to showcase what makes you different. And with 86 per cent of women citing this as their favourite moment in salon, it’s an element to get everything spot on.

*TNS study on ‘women and hairstylists’ in four countries 2012, data client wave panel UK 2012

“Digital windows are so attention grabbing. They really stop passers-by in their tracks and show off the latest hair trends and new products”

Standing out on the high street is vital to salon survival. A key innovation that’s making a real impact is motion windows, a powerful way to modernise your salon window display (Lockonego now has one in its Kings Road location).

“Our digital windows are so attention grabbing. They really stop passers-by in their tracks and show off the latest hair trends and new products,” says Andrew Rodgers, founder of Funky Divas salons in Sheffield. On a practical front, it also makes it easier to change your visuals regularly and keep your messages and images fresh, and the movement helps attract more attention.

In retail research, digital posters have proved to be six-times more visible and attract up to 33 per cent more new customers.* More than three-quarters of customers are influenced by videos at the point of sale, too.

Some of it is about hitting your basic points – can your salon be found easily online, and does it look incredible? Is offering clear to potential customers? Are key products on display, with star goodies shown ? Are you encouraging clients to share their finished looks and leave gushingly good reviews of your team ?

An incredible 68 per cent of women feel anxious entering the salon for the first time,* so you want to be as encouraging and inviting as possible.

And make any kind of wait as enjoyable as possible – our obsession with coffee is a great place to start. Radio Hair in King’s Cross and Sheffield’s Laundry include barista-hosted coffee areas in their salons, elevating the customer experience in a sensorial, modern way.

One of the main steps in Salon Emotion is the consultation. While some salons will carry this out at the styling station, it’s worth considering a dedicated area with two chairs to allow a true ‘face to face’ consultation – no mirror-based conversations.

Here, you can bring the discussion alive with diagnosis tools, service menus, colour charts and even iPads loaded up with Pinterest boards or even an app that help clients visualise key looks on a selfie.

Redken even updates a Pinterest page (@RedkenUKI) for a brilliant array of looks, and Josh Wood is well-known for

Laundry

RETAIL

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navigation for self-service are important too. Redken has created shelf talkers, designed in the language that people search in – think ‘for coloured hair’ and ‘for flat hair’, alongside clipper card stands that call out ‘#trending’, ‘best sellers’, and ‘new arrivals’. This helps close the loop on all the buzz clients will have seen about Redken products across social media, particularly from influencers.

Salon events where clients can try out services and products can also have a feel good boost on retail sales and client engagement. A great example is the Big Hair Do, where 100 salons open their doors for one night in September.

Finally, once that client is finished and looking fabulous in your chair, get them to share.

“The power of the selfie today on social media is huge – and it’s a fantastic advertisement for your staff ’s skills.

So think about getting those selfies on point,” advises Melissa Fernandez, UK and Ireland general manager for Redken.

Eleven Hair has designed a 3D flower wall for clients to capture their selfie looks, while Liverpool’s Voodou has a neon ‘Fit Hair’ light, as well as selfie backdrop. No wonder an increasingly standard piece of kit in the salon is a ring light, for the most flattering light possible.

*TNS study on ‘women and hairstylists’ in four countries 2012, data client wave panel UK 2012

Live True communal colour consultation tables Lockonego

If it’s not right, 70 per cent of women say they won’t return.* The back bar needs to be located in a quieter area, separate from the buzzy salon atmosphere. Think dimmable lights, a partition wall or even a separate room for more relaxation. It’s a great place to add some branding, with products on clear display alongside treatment menus.

Of course, clients don’t want to invest in salon appointments and products if they can’t reproduce the look they love at home. Recent studies have shown that consumers really trust their hairdresser and will buy into a recommendation, regardless of price.

Indeed, this recommendation approach seems to be what clients are missing – 54 per cent of customers don’t buy because ‘nothing was recommended’.* Only 8 per cent said that price was the issue.* With merchandising tools and a fresh strategy, your staff won’t need to apply the hard sell. Perhaps a communal table without a mirror where customers can relax, read, use iPads or test products, is worth considering.

At Lockonego, Jonathan knew he wanted to expand and adapt his retail offering to create a more involved experience. “We have opened up our retail area so clients feel free to touch and feel the products, and this has worked wonderfully for us. Sales are up 15 per cent,” he explains. “The mask bar has been successful as it gets the conversation started, and we can create bespoke treatments for each individual client. We introduced a new way of taking bills that has also improved our sales.”

Retail areas at George Northwood and The Chapel are stand-out examples – visible and accessible. Clear pricing and

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RETAIL

Innovation

Voodou

hairdresser demand for a purplepigmented shampoo within the Redken portfolio. It ticks a big box in terms of customer demand, addressing a huge search trend for how to solve brassiness and breakage in super blonde hair. Meanwhile the recent launch of the Redken Brews range for men similarly invokes familiarity and ease, with its beer-bottle shapes and malt-infused formulas, underpinned by the range’s scientific credentials. Redken Brews’ new Cut & Camo service offers

Staying on top of current trends – especially wider beauty trends rather than just the latest in hair – can also serve as a distinct way to stand out among peers.

Lockonego’s new Ear Candy styles (see page 44) have been designed to show off the statement earring trend seen across the catwalks. Other key trends to pick up on include blow-dry bars for the athleisure trend and the always-switchedon city types, the rise of vegan or natural ingredients and environmentally-friendly packaging, or even skincare-inspired ingredients and formulations such as scalp scrubs. Successful salon retail, like the best ideas, cannot flourish in a vacuum.

the perfect blend of quick colour, in just five minutes, and a fresh cut – more services and less time required means smarter sales. With more and more designers wanting an artfully undone look, Redken global creative director, Guido Palau, was frustrated that nothing he had in his kit seemed to create the desired effect. The Redken No Blow Dry Air Stylers are the result of his work with the brand’s innovation team to create products for the perfect air dry look, no matter the hair texture.

While created with a fashion angle, the rising popularity of natural hair texture creates that link to your client, bringing the creative ideas of the catwalk to the salon.

Eleven Hair

BRINGING IN NEW PRODUCTS that can catch the customer’s eye is still the easiest way to ramp up retail within salons. Redken has won more awards for its products than any other professional brand, and for good reason. Forward-thinking and progressive, Redken’s strong scientific heritage means that it is always pushing the boundaries and expectations of what can be created. Its Korean-inspired All Soft Mega Sheet Mask has that element of play and fun which is so crucial when introducing clients to something new.

It’s the perfect little packet to keep at the reception desk, curious clients will find it a little bit intriguing and it offers the impulse purchasing that so many high street fashion retailers do so well! Also concerned with the health of hair in an age of bleaching and processing (thanks Instagram!) is the new Color Extend Blondage care line, developed in response to

WANT TO LEARN HOW TO REFOCUS YOUR CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AND GROW YOUR BUSINESS? Redken will be hosting complimentary Salon Emotion events this October.

To book, email info.redken@loreal.com

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#OWNIT!

GONE ARE THE times when you would send out a PR and marketing message and sit tight and wait for it to take off. With social media being an integral communication channel for modern day, thriving businesses, it’s possible to strike up lively, thought-provoking conversation in real-time. Mitchell Wilson, owner of Laundry in Sheffield, decided to promote his business by styling four looks in one day on the same client. “We wanted to illustrate that we are creative, using social media to share our work and push our brand to our clients, who actively follow and engage with us online,” he says. “These types of ideas naturally require a lot of careful planning and coordination, but the real-time aspect of showing the transformation of one client across cutting, colouring and styling, proved really popular with our followers.” Social media allows you to constantly reinvent yourself as a business and create a unique brand identity in part shaped by the community you create – and Redken is the perfect brand partner for it.

STANDING OUT ON SOCIAL MEDIA MEANS BUILDING A TRUSTED COMMUNITY THAT: ● KNOWS WHO YOU ARE ● LIKES WHO YOU ARE ● LOVES WHAT YOUR BUSINESS IS ABOUT You need to own the story, think about the message and make it a true reflection of your business and you. Mitchell Wilson is keen to get disruptive and do more – how about you? #BEDIFFERENTBEREDKEN

Hair by Mitchell Wilson for Laundry, assisted by Jake Richmond-Brough and Gareth McAughley. Photography by Nick Eagle

ONLINE BRANDING

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Emma Delury for Redken 5th Avenue

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