Runway Spring/Summer14 by Alfol Publishing

r u n w a y r u n w ay S /S 2 014

Spring summer 2 014

Y o u r

free range

Alfol

PUBLISHING

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e ss e n t i a l

g u i d e

t o

t h e

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s e a s o n

c r e a t i v e h e a d m a g . c o m 22/1/14 12:56:58

Kirsten Dunst’s new “chic & messy” look, exclusively from your hairdresser

Wild Stylers THE 1ST INVISIBLE TEXTURIZING-STYLERS. A “tousled, dishevelled” hair effect No rough touch Approved by more than 100 backstage stylists

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Exclusively in salons

c o n t e n t s the

season 08

Top

Our favourite moments in hair and fashion this season 22

The

season

that

was

The people, the places, the faces: S/S14 rocked our world

the

hair 36

trends

Braids, buns and ponytails seize the imagination of the global catwalks 46

Re:Create

The stories and techniques behind S/S13’s picture-perfect creations 54

How

hair

happens

Get inspired by the hard work that goes into hair backstage

the

backstage

magic

war

paint

warriors

The lowdown on four top talents in fashion week beauty 66

M AN

F IRE

Trailblazer Eugene Souleiman just can’t stop making breathtaking hair 72

The

big

p i ct u r e

Take some time to enjoy the special moments behind the scenes 78

r ED - B L OODED

NAI L S

We talk to Sophie Harris-Greenslade – queen of the backstage and editorial talon 82

S/s14

hair

is…

All about girl gangs and getting that feeling – session maestros talk inspiration

Cover image: Roksanda Ilincic S/S14. Hair by Luke Hersheson using L’Oréal Professionnel 04

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Photography by Rasha Kahil

editor’s letter Let me welcome you to Spring/Summer ’14, trend lovers. After a long month on the road backstage at shows – my day job is beauty and health editor at Vogue – I can’t wait to get back and dissect the season in detail. Here, I am delighted to break down trends and show you the best the season has to offer. See stolen moments backstage in The Season That Was from page 22, run through my standout trends for S/S14 from page 36 (personally, I’m going to be working the new wave braid) and in Top 10 Moments from page 8, see standout stories from the shows that really had maximum impact. In what is a bit of a Runway first, we also look into the other half of the backstage equation – the make-up artists – and introduce you to the best in the business. What’s more, learn the tricks of the trade in How Hair Happens on page 54 and Re:Create on page 46, and also take a journey into the mind of Eugene Souleiman from page 66 – he is, in my opinion, one of the greatest session stylists working today. A great friend and inspiration, I had the pleasure of interviewing him for this intimate profile about hairdressing and the modern age. For the most part though, just sit, back, relax and enjoy. In what was my fifteenth season covering shows backstage, and people always ask: “Do you get bored?” The answer is simple: “no”. I continue to feel inspired by what I see, season after season, and I hope you do, too. Jessica Hogan Guest Editor, Runway

Editor in chief Amanda Nottage Art Graeme White Chief Sub Editor Adam Wood Contributors Beth Davie, Yasmin Planchon Publisher Catherine Handcock Write to us at: runway, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London N1 6ND T: 020 7324 7540 E: enquiries@headmag.co.uk Runway is published twice a year by ALFOL Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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The season Oh,

you

pretty

sun-dappled

guide

cherry- picks

seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Co n s i d e r

silks

From

tribal

Vogueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jessica

gatherings, Ho g a n

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season

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Badgley Mischka. Hair by Peter Gray and photography by David Webber for Moroccanoil

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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PRADA WANNA BE IN MY GANG?

There are few shows that can block out an entire two days of exclusivity in a model’s busy schedule, but Prada is one of them. At designer Miuccia Prada’s request, Wella Professionals’ global creative director for colour, Josh Wood, spent this time colouring models’ hair into distinct ‘gangs’: the Redheads, the Blondes and the Brunettes. Styled on the day by Redken’s creative consultant, Guido Palau, their rebellious nature was brought together with a slick and low sideparting, while the collection itself was a riotous call to arms. Sporty leg warmers sat atop vintagestyle shoes, sparkly bras on the outside of dresses, feather headdresses and even fur coats featured for summer. She might be re-writing the rule book, but who wants to conform when it means that you can be in Miuccia’s gang?

TOP 10 MOMENTS IN HAIR & FASHION So

many

so Le t

little

edit

s h o ws ,

p r esen t

that

t ime .

the

bes t

S/S14

c a t wa l k s

had

offer

Image: Wella Professionals

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Image: Toni&Guy

GILES NINETIES SUPERNOVA

Spring: surely the season to celebrate life, vivacity, bright colours, flower prints et al? Well, not if you’re Giles Deacon, whose latest collection centred around a more muted colour palette of tonal browns and nudes with the odd splash of purple and pink. As a designer constantly pushing boundaries in fashion, he instead chose to feature prints from famed ’90s photographer Glen Luchford on his silk and chiffon creations. Photographs of what? Or should that be whom? None other than supermodels Kate Moss, Amber Valletta and Guinevere Van Seenus. Backstage, Toni&Guys’s Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck worked equally subversively to toughen up proceedings with an edgy, knotted braid. The collection might not have been all flowers, but it was still most certainly coming up roses. Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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DKNY BIRTHDAY SUIT

Image: Wella Professionals

Bring out the birthday cake because DKNY is 25 years old this season. The collection comprised some of the brand’s greatest hits: denim overalls, baseball caps, T-shirts and tracksuit bottoms, often emblazoned with the brand’s now iconic logo. And in true party style, Rita Ora closed this show dancing down the runway to the Beastie Boys’ (You Gotta Fight) For Your Right (To Party). As a fashion house whose identity is entrenched in its preppy and sporty aesthetic, DKNY’s backstage hair guru, Eugene Souleiman with Wella Professionals, slicked hair into a glossy side-parted, side-fastened ponytail. She may be the younger sister to main label Donna Karan, but at turning 25, it’s pretty safe to say that the DKNY girl is growing up into a fine young woman.

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Image: Pantene

CHANEL ART ATTACK

The location: Paris’s Grand Palais. The set: a gigantic white-walled gallery, complete with Chanel art installations. The soundtrack: Jay Z’s Picasso Baby. There was no mistaking designer Karl Lagerfeld’s moodboard for S/S14 – all things art. He designed a masterpiece of a collection, which included graffiti-covered backpacks, floaty chiffon dresses splodged with primary colours, paintbrush-inspired wigs by the masterful Pantene ambassador Sam McKnight and finger-painted eye sockets by make-up maestro Peter Philips. And if that wasn’t enough, Lagerfeld also commissioned each of the 75 pieces installed in the gallery, created during his self-entitled ‘Summer of Prodigious Creativity’. The best part? While the pieces of art have been archived, the clothes needn’t go on sale to the highest bidder – they are available now. Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Image: TIGI

OSMAN EAST MEETS WEST

‘Modernism meets dusty Indian palaces’ was the reference for Osman’s S/S14 collection. But rather than take on all the usual nuances that could be used to depict India, his pieces were a refreshing combination of a mostly white palette (very ontrend this season), embroidered with the finest of spun gold, as well as intricate lacework that mirrored doors seen on a trip to Rajasthan, delicate beading and exotic tree prints, all in breezy and often asymmetric silhouettes. There were also new styling notes with skirts worn over trousers and cutaway midriffs. Hair called for something cool and nonchalant by comparison with TIGI’s global creative director, Nick Irwin, mussing up hair in a centre-parting with humidity-evoked flyaway volume. The emperor’s new clothes? They didn’t have a patch on Osman. 12

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Image: BaByliss PRO

HOUSE OF HOLLAND LOVE’S YOUNG DREAM

If the backdrop of purple and pink fluffy clouds was anything to go by, designer Henry Holland was in the mood for love. With a collection inspired by Baz Lurhmann’s blockbuster Romeo+Juliet by way of Mexico City, the theme of love-against-allodds could be seen throughout the collection. Pretty pink frocks contrasted with love-heart tattoo insignias, posy flower prints contrasted with badass sunglasses and baseball caps, girlish silhouettes juxtaposed with street-style nail talons – there was a definite tension between the sweet and the sassy for this season. Described by BaByliss PRO’s ambassador Adam Reed as ‘Henry’s Homegirls’, he slicked hair off models’ face for a bit of attitude and let the clothes do the talking. Young hearts run free, you see. Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Image: Moroccanoil

7 BADGLEY MISCHKA LA VIE EST BELLE

Say hello to palazzo pants, Breton stripes, polka dots and a predominantly white and navy wardrobe, care of Badgley Mischka, who for S/S14 was inspired by life on the French Riviera in the ’20s and ’30s. Cue hair stylist Peter Gray for Moroccanoil to sculpt these retro faux bobs to illustrate the story beautifully, alongside a wash of Côte d’Azur blue on the eyes by make-up artist Tom Pecheux. The collection even took a turn into fantasy with flowing mermaid-inspired gowns for the show’s finale, putting the designer duo firmly on the red carpet map for the ensuing awards season. As a brand that has been building up to A-list status for some time, this collection is confirmation, if ever it was needed, that it has well and truly arrived.

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Image: TIGI

THE BLONDS (ALIEN) BLONDE AMBITION

Think of the most iconic blondes of all time: Marilyn Monroe, Marie Antoinette, Jane Fonda and, erm, Tweety Bird. Then, throw them all into a Fashion Week blender, catapult them into space… et voila, out comes the brilliantly fun and tonguein-cheek collection from The Blonds, the fashion house that brings the fun and playful element to New York Fashion Week proceedings. The collection was just as crazy as it sounds. Think Dr. Spock ear accessories, Looney Toons feathered coats, alien-inspired embellishments, Space Age silhouettes and these futuristic blonde balls – or ‘intergalactic top knots’ – sculpted by Nick Irwin, global creative director of TIGI. Totally mad? Yes. Totally bonkers? Absolutely. Well after all, blondes do have more fun… Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Image: L’Oréal Professionnel

9 TOPSHOP UNIQUE THE GYPSET

Let us translate: ‘gypset’ – bohemian gypsy style meets the glamour of the jet set. That pretty much sums up the vibe for Topshop Unique’s smash hit offering for S/S14. Inspired by “model Daria Werbowy on the beach in Ibiza”, it was an eclectic mix of global inspiration day-to-night pieces with influences by way of fringing, Moroccan tile prints, appliques and ethnic beach cover-ups. If there was one collection this season that you could just throw the entire content of into your suitcase come holiday time, this is it. Oh, and also throw in a bottle of mousse, used by the L’Oréal Professionnel ambassador Anthony Turner, because you’re going to need the holiday hair to match. Bon voyage.

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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10 LOUIS VUITTON THE GRAND FINALE

Image: Redken

There was no greater fashion moment than this. The stepping down of Marc Jacobs from the helm of Louis Vuitton after 16 years, as was announced live to the world at its S/S14 show. A retrospective of his work, the show venue favoured sets from the past few seasons: the escalators, the elevators, the fountain, the hotel room corridors, all lacquered in black paint. This show, too, was a spectacle of drama: from the exclusively black collection, to the Stephen Jones feathered headdresses, as fastened by Redken’s creative consultant Guido Palau, to Edie Campbell in a LV-logoed nude body suit, there couldn’t be been a better send off. “To the showgirl in all of us” read his show notes.

And fade to black…

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Hear from the most inspiring people in hair and fashion

The Coterie CH

The Coterie â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Creative HEADâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s networking club for hair and fashion professionals 01434 610933 l info@the-coterie.net l creativeheadmag.com/events/the-coterie

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21/1/14 13:01:56

r u n w a y p r o m o ti o n

The

trends, co lo u rs and

products yo u n eed to k n ow f o r S / S14 , bro u g ht to yo u by

TIGI

Wa n t yo u r c l i e n t s to f e e l fa s h i o n - fa b u lo u s ? Lo o k n o f u r t h e r â&#x20AC;&#x201C; w e â&#x20AC;&#x2122; v e g o t a l l y o u n e e d r i g h t h e r e . T h e T I G I C r e a ti v e T e a m w o r k e d 14 s h o w s o v e r f o u r f a s h i o n w e e k s a n d s o h a v e h a d a h a n d i n s h a p i n g t h e h a i r t r e n d s f o r S / S14 . H e r e , t h e y g i v e u s t h e low d ow n o n t h e s e a s o n - d efi n i n g h a i r t r en ds a n d co lo u rs

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21/1/14 14:09:49

Hello... From myself and the TIGI Creative Team! As I write this, we’ve just wrapped up another whirlwind fashion week season, where we covered 14 designers across all four fashion weeks. While it’s always a busy time, I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t fun. You get up early, go to bed late and live on coffee and adrenaline during the day, with a hastily grabbed snack if there happens to be catering backstage. I travelled from London to New York and everywhere in-between overseeing the TIGI Creative Team, discussing with the designers their inspirations behind their collections and how these can be interpreted in hair. While we always start with a brief, come the hair test or even on the day that brief can change in a flash, when our European session director, Maria Kovacs, or myself will have a lightbulb moment and take the hair in a different direction. The key is communication. As long as everyone is on board and knows what they’re doing, then it will nearly always go smoothly. This season, we have worked on everything from intricate braids to dramatic balloons of hair, so we know what’s around the corner. Over the following pages you’ll discover the key hair trends by TIGI that global technical creative director Christel Lundqvist, Maria and myself have all contributed to. What’s in store for S/S14? It’s dramatic, daring and delicately handcrafted, say hello to your new season of hair… Nick Irwin TI G I g lo ba l c r e ati v e d i r e c to r @MrNickIrwin

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22/1/14 12:53:37

r u n w ay p r o m o t i o n

T e n

Th e n um b e r o f fl i g h ts ta k e n by Alex Barron-Hough, Nick Irwin, M a r i a Kovac s a n d M a r c o I a f r at e d u r i n g th e fo u r fa s h i o n w e e k s .

s i x

T h e n u m b er o f Eu r o s ta r tr ain journeys Alex, Nick, M a r i a a n d M a rco to o k during the four weeks. W h at T IGI u s e d at t h e fa s h i o n w e e k s :

â&#x20AC;&#x153;With the knowledge we gain from working with fa s h i o n d es i g n e r s bac k s tag e, w e c r e ate key trends to inspire yo u r ow n sa lo n a n d photographic work. We consider emerging textures and shapes, as well as the feeling and mood of the season and adapt these ideas to real lifeâ&#x20AC;? M a r i a kovac s, european session d i r e c t o r , T IGI

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T w o Hundred cans of h a i r s p r ay

Sixty tubs o f gel

Sixty salt s p r ays

prep

cases

Eighteen The average number of b ac k s tag e t e a m members per s h o w

T w o Hundred d r y shamp o o s Sixty tubs of wax

v per

show

Twenty The average number of m o d el s that walked at each s h o w 22/1/14 12:54:14

A lt e r e g o This trend is all about being whoever you want to be. Whether it’s a rebellious gothic warrior, as seen at Mark Fast, an intergalactic Marilyn Monroe at The Blonds, the key to this look is your imagination. The colour? “It’s clever, sharp and expressive with a high fashion edge. The palette is simple but effective ranging from deep raven black and magenta red to porcelain white and iridescent sand,” says Christel.

Mark Fast

▼

John Richmond ▼

The Blonds

▼ ▼

Iris Van Herpen

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Mark Fast

The Blonds

▼

From th e c at wa l k to th e s i d e wa l k ...

21/1/14 14:11:26

r u n w ay p r o m o t i o n

Zana Bayne ▼

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– Soft Ho

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Superstar Queen for a Day by Bed Head by TIGI is so popular among session stylists that even though some stylists at fashion shows are paid to use certain haircare brands, they tape over the name on the bottle so they can use it anonymously!

s k’

SoundCl

Our hero

Frankie Morello

Music

▼

Frankie Morello

Think fresh-faced and relaxed with a luxurious overtone running throughout – this trend exudes laidback elegance, tied in with exotic travel. Hair is lightly tousled, as seen at Frankie Morello and Zana Bayne. The colour has also been inspired by the sea and shore. “Natural, sun-kissed looks with multi-tones of sand, oyster blonde and buttermilk, the playful colour palette is inspired by escapism, featuring intense pastels for a sea-punk look,” reveals Christel.

22/1/14 12:54:51

Uptown girl This uptown girl is carefree, sophisticated and groomed to perfection, but she has a rebellious edge. The key nuances? Osman, Ruffian, Antipodium, Jonathan Simkhai and alice + olivia shows all featured clean and pretty partings, mussed-up texture and lengths tucked away for the finishing touch. This colour trend is delicate and elegant with emphasis on maximum tone and shine. “The colour palette is pretty and sophisticated, with colours ranging from jasmine white, barley white and elderflower to cocoa powder and deep leather browns,” explains Christel.

▼

Jonathan Simkhai

▼

Ruffian

alice + olivia

▼

Antipodium

▼

alice + olivia

▼

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▼

Antipodium

Ruffian

From th e c at wa l k to th e s i d e wa l k …

21/1/14 14:12:59

r u n w ay p r o m o t i o n

Alon Livine ▼

Artisan The nomads hit the catwalks this season! Think waist-length Technicolor braids or detailed Mohawk corn rows, playfully twisted around the head in true tribal fashion. “The trend is about taking inspiration from nature and ethnic fashion, and combining this with modern design,” says Christel. Translating this idea to the salon, Christel suggests using strong block colours such as blacks with accents of poppy, through to orange, fuchsia, plum, violet and deep-denim.

Mara Hoffman

▼

Photography by Alex Barron-Hough

No session kitbag is complete without these two must-haves. Protect and prep hair with Haute Iron Spray and give limp locks a little life with Root Boost, both from Catwalk by TIGI.

Alon Livine

S e ss i o n e ss e n t i a l s

Discover the latest hair trends and products from TIGI. For details, call 0844 844 0944 or visit catwalkbytigi.com. Keep up-to-date with TIGI and all things catwalk at facebook.com/CatwalkByTIGI 8pp_TIGI Promo Insert _GW8.indd 7

21/1/14 14:13:33

Session stylists at fashion shows are paid to use certain hair care brands. But they all know that Superstar Queen for a day creates amazing volume and body so they use it anonymously. So come on stylists take the tape off . And get the Queen out of hiding. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Find your nearest Bed Head salon at www.bedhead.com â&#x20AC;&#x201D; bedheadbytigi bedheadbytigi

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@tigicreatives bedheadbytigi

16/01/2014 11:50 21/1/14 14:13:51

The Coteri e CH Sarah Curran MBE Phillip Dupée Luke Hersheson Henry Holland Leigh Keates Millie Kendall MBE Joanna McGarry Sam McKnight Neil Moodie Lauren Murdoch-Smith Guido Palau Adam Reed Claire Rothstein Johnnie Sapong Jan Sewell Anna-Marie Solowij Josh Wood

They’ve talked. Have you heard them? Individual membership £160 per year Group membership £320 per year

The Coterie – Creative HEAD’s networking club for hair and fashion professionals 01434 610933 l info@the-coterie.net l creativeheadmag.com/events/the-coterie

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21/1/14 13:02:08

M . L E LAB

Y L N O E H T IS

label.m Professional Haircare joined forces with London Fashion Week from September 2013! The exclusive collaboration means that the range originally launched in 2005 will feature the official London Fashion Week logo on all its packaging and is the first time that London Fashion Week has allowed its name to be used to endorse a haircare line in this way. The global initiative provides an innovative platform that showcases the international reach of both TONI&GUY and label.m to new audiences across 41 countries and with British fashion worth ÂŁ21 billion to the UK economy, a percentage of retail profit from the sale of each label.m branded product will go back to the British Fashion Council who run London Fashion Week, to help support future growth that enables the nurturing of British design talent.

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14/01/2014 10:41

S R E N G I S E D H S I T I BR

G N I T R SUPPO

The London Fashion Week label.m professional haircare range launched with selected products from September 2013 at London Fashion Week and will be available at all specially appointed label.m, TONI&GUY and essensuals salons with a global roll out during 2014.

/labelmUK

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@ labelmUK

/labelmUK

/labelm

14/01/2014 10:44

T H AT W A S T H E S EA S O n … It’s

the

little

m at ter,

join

vogue’s

Jessica

discovery

Lov e ly

things

that

Ru nway Hogan of

and on

s/s14

rita

BFFs with Cara Delevingne? Check. Achingly hip DJ onagain-off-again boyfriend? Check. Oodles of body art and a fresh take on street wear? Yup, Rita Ora checks all the boxes, so who better to strut their stuff down the runway at DKNY? And she makes it all look so much fun!

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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r u n w ay t h at wa s t h e s e a s o n

T H E AW K WAR D MOMENT WHEN… …you can’t fit through the door because your dress is too big, as seen here backstage at Kilian Kerner.

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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A BS - O LUTE LY FABULOUS

Peter Som

Osman

Jean-Pierre Braganza

alice + olivia

Ladies, it’s time to suck it all in because this season’s hottest – or should that be coolest – trend involves revealing a bit of stomach. Top of the crops included Dior, Osman, Prada, Peter Som, Alexander Wang, Jean-Pierre Braganza and alice + olivia where models were showing off enviable washboard abs. It’s crunch time.

ORANGE IS THE NEW RED There is something decidedly youthful about orange lipstick. Seen on pouts at DKNY (pictured) and rag & bone this season, it was the zesty alternative to the classic summer staples of red and pink. “This is the first time we have ever done a ‘lip’ at this show so I wanted to make it count,” said makeup artist Gucci Westman backstage at rag & bone. The future is bright… the future is orange. 24

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Antipodium

r u n w ay t h at wa s t h e s e a s o n

MIND GAMES

Mark Fast

What really goes on inside designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; minds? Moodboards are often the closest you can get into the references, inspirations and general mood for the collection, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a real treat when they are shared for all to see on the walls of backstage. Spot Miss Piggy!

the calm

Make-up mistress Pat McGrath is known for her ability to push boundaries and this season was no exception, when she created these bejewelled tribal masks for a select 17 models walking the runway for Givenchy. Each mask needed two people to create it, took four hours to apply and required a colossal 1,500 Swarovski crystals. Did someone say major?

Backstage at a show is hectic. There is shouting, shoving, rushing and mayhem especially in the moments right before showtime. The only moment of solace? The few seconds before a model steps out onto the catwalk. Enjoy the silence.

David Koma

THE W O MAN B EH I N D THE MA S K

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Jean-Paul Lespagnard

SELF(IE) RECOGNITION 2013: the year that the word ‘selfie’ made it into the Oxford English Dictionary. A term that now defines a generation, there is no greater forum for the selfie than backstage, where models share pictures of themselves at every stage of the getting ready process. Strike a pose.

FAR,

It wasn’t just the usual four fashion cities that were having fashion week frenzies. In the Far East, Singapore was showcasing its very own fashion week. With Knightsbridge salon Neville’s as official hair partner for the extravaganza, creating looks for couture houses Guo Pei and Alexis Mabille, it was a no-holds-barred approach to styling. Flowers fingerpainted onto slick chignons, jewels dripping off towering beehives and even the odd ram’s horns.

Frederick Lee

Guo Pei

IN A LAND FA R AWAY

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Mara Hoffman

r u n w ay t h at wa s t h e s e a s o n

Missoni

STOP PRESS! There is a new accessory on the block – the hairdresser’s belt. Loaded up with Kirby grips, sectioning clips, pins, elastics and goodness knows what else, there is something rather fabulous about wearing your career as a trophy item. Consider this the new age fanny pack.

Karen K

BELT

Sunglasses have long been a transitional season staple – come summer or winter designers are offering opticals all year around, but for the summer season there is something perhaps a bit more playful in terms of what’s on offer. Consider the visors at Assembly, the metallic reflective bug-eyed options at Giles, the retro cat-eyes style at PPQ and Frankie Morello, beaded at Mara Hoffman and larger than life at Missoni. So let the sun shine, the choice is yours…

PPQ

Frankie Morello

House of Holland

Giles

SHADY LADIES

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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YORK

Pearce Fionda

Emilio de la Morena

Diane von Furstenberg

Narciso Rodriguez

Rachel Zoe

Antonio Berardi

3 NEW

LONDON

Number of shows this season: 198 Number of shows last season: 167

Number of shows this season: 95 Number of shows last season: 81

T h e b i g h i tter s Alexander Wang, Carolina Herrera, Diane von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Rachel Zoe, Victoria Beckham

T h e b i g h i tter s Antonio Berardi, Burberry, Christopher Kane, Emilio de la Morena, Erdem, Giles, Mary Katrantzou, Pearce Fionda, Peter Pilotto

MILAN

Number of shows this season: 72 Number of shows last season: 6 4

T h e b i g h i tter s Armani, Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Fendi, Frankie Morello, Gucci, Jil Sander, John Richmond, Prada, Versace

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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P A R IS

Number of shows this season: 101 Number of shows last season: 94 T h e b i g h i tter s Balenciaga, Celine, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Iris van Herpen, McQueen, Stella McCartney, Saint Lauren, Valentino

3 28

Iris van Herpen

John Richmond

Frankie Morello

Gucci

Dior

SEASON BY NUMBERS

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r u n w ay t h at wa s t h e s e a s o n

# BACKSTAGE A T B UR B E RRY

ANATOMY OF A LOOK

Images courtesy of BaByliss PRO, ghd, Image Net, L’Oréal Professionnel, MAC, Moroccanoil, Nars, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

Osman

They don’t call it make-up artistry for nothing. MAC’s face chart notepads have become a backstage staple for make-up teams to write detailed instructions on how to create the look, seen here at John Richmond.

When it comes to cutting edge technology, we all follow in the wake of Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, whose visionary direction sees the British fashion house continuously taking the brand – and more specifically its catwalk shows – to the next level. They were the first to live stream a show online and now for this season, their live feed was filmed on the then unreleased iPhone 5s with its cutting-edge iSight camera lens. As part of the iPhone collaboration, backstage there was a Burberry Instagram Beauty Booth where Edie Campbell, Jourdan Dunn, Cara Delevingne got snap-happy.

AND CUT! Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Call

Share connect the and

and with

cit y- bred

nature-led

S/S14 Urban for

trend

Native, Wella

Professionals TrendVision

the

ci t y

n our hyper-real, cosmopolitan world, making a connection is everything. Whether it’s in our personal relationships, being the first to tweet a shot of Edie Campbell on the catwalk, or discovering the latest beauty trends on Tanya Burr’s blog, the connections we make are a part of who we are. But this new breed of tech-savvy fashion pack is equally at ease with switching off. No longer connected 24/7, the TMI (too much information) generation have moved on to become a group that have gone urban native – they’ve de-cluttered, slowed down and reconnected with life. In this urban jungle, technology might still be their religion, but adherents of this tribe always spot each other and naturally connect: be it through their relaxed energy, their openness or the respect they have for others. It’s more than a lifestyle – it’s a movement. Wella Professionals’ S/S14 TrendVision collection, Urban Native, perfectly encapsulates this. “S/S14 hair has a very deconstructed, natural feeling to it,” says Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals global creative director for care and styling. “Hair isn’t ironed flat or over-styled – it’s natural, pretty but a bit edgy.” For more inspiration, stylists can also look to Wella Professionals’ Undone collection, which aims to provide stylists with the right tools to maximise their business potential, while showcasing their expertise – look out for the full collection in Colour Forecast!

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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r u n w ay p r o m o t i o n

“This trend is very much about a life e d i t; a b o u t m a k i n g the right choices th at a r e g o i n g to m a k e yo u h a ppy a n d f u l f i l l e d . 2 014 i s a bo u t co lo u r th at has a soft and u n d e r s ta n da b l e p e r s o n a l i t y; f a d e d , a l m os t ac h rom ati c, bu t d e l i c ate a n d p r e tt y ” J o s h W o o d, W el l a Pro fes si o n a ls g lo ba l c r e at i v e d i r e c to r fo r co lo u r

Don’t miss it!

See W e l l a Pro fess i o n a l s’ U n d o n e C o l l e c t i o n, i n s p i r e d by U r ba n N at i v e, i n C o lo u r Fo r e c a s t S/S14

out in March For more information on the trendvision award event, call 0845 601 8128. Keep up-to-date on all the Wella Professionals TrendVision news. Become a fan of ‘Wella UK’ on Facebook or visit wella.com

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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YEARS AS OFFICIAL SPONSOR TO LONDON FASHION WEEK TONI&GUY continues with it’s support of key British fashion talent, celebrating 10 years as the ‘Official Sponsor to London Fashion Week.’ Creating the hair for more shows across the schedule than any other hairdressing company takes a seriously talented team. The TONI&GUY session team share their experiences backstage through TONI&GUY’s innovative course offering. From the high-fashion focus of the Creative Cut and Colour to the Session and Editorial course, to the innovative Men’s course the team take the unique experience they gain backstage to creating innovative, inspiring hairdressing techniques that can then be translated to both the hairdressers and clients’.

MASHA MA

BASSO & BROOKE

DANIELLE SCUTT

GILES

BORA AKSU

FELDER FELDER

TODD LYNN

GILES

TODD LYNN

DANIELLE SCUTT

GILES

BELLE SAUVAGE

ASHLEY ISHAM

GILES

JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA

AIMEE MC WILLIAMS

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CREATIVE CUTTING AND COLOURING This course really is the ultimate example of TONI&GUY creative thinking at its best. Created to accommodate new fashion trends in hair, this highly motivational course is the perfect vehicle for learning ground breaking techniques as they develop and is personally taught by the International Artistic Team.

MEN’S Personally taught by the current Men’s British Hairdressing Award winner, this course is designed to strengthen your technique in men’s hairdressing whilst giving an insight into how the TONI&GUY International Artistic Team push boundaries with regards to men’s fashion and male cutting techniques. Incorporating growing trends in men’s hairdressing, influences from popular culture and high fashion, and of course, how to translate these influences into wearable techniques.

SESSION AND EDITORIAL Are you excited by fashion and the world of editorial hair? If so, this course is perfect for you. Who better to learn the art of editorial hair from, than the ‘Official Sponsor to London Fashion Week’. This flexible course is designed for anyone who not only wants to further their long hair know-how, but perfect their editorial and session skills and is designed to take you from the absolute fundamentals through to creative freedom.

BOOK BEFORE MARCH 31st AND RECEIVE A 50/50 TONI&GUY LOOK BOOK WORTH £45.00. SIMPLY QUOTE ‘RUNWAY’ WHEN BOOKING YOUR COURSE. For more information and details on TONI&GUY Education visit www.toniandguy.com or contact the TONI&GUY London Academy 020 7836 0606 COURSES@TONI&GUY.CO.UK /toniandguyUK

@ toniandguyUK

2014

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The hair What for!

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Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Corrie Nielsen. Image courtesy of Bumble and bumble

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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LUXE

alice + olivia

SPORTS Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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LUXE

alice + olivia

SPORTS Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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work

Haider Ackermann

Masters Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Haider Ackermann Haider Ackermann Haider Ackermann Haider Ackermann

Temperley London

There is runway hair and then there is Runway hair – that’s hair that we’re hailing as the best in show for talent and creativity. It’s exactly the kind of locks you only expect to see in glossy editorial shoots when hair stylists have had ample time to prep and prepare. But that’s what makes these styles all the more incredible – the fact that they have been whipped up backstage in a matter of precious moments, often just as models arrive late from the previous show. This is hair created by the professionals, showcasing the best that runway hair has to offer and the devil lies in the details. Take Issey Miyake’s rolled side pleats or Haider Ackermann’s take on a teddy boy quiff, both by the masterful Wella Professionals’ global creative director for care and style, Eugene Souleiman, or the elegantly decadent side twists at Temperley London by L’Oréal Professionnel’s Malcolm Edwards. Or consider Vivienne Westwood Gold Label’s sky high cotton-candy bouffants by Sam McKnight for ghd. When creating the knotted ‘faux-hawks’ backstage at Simone Rocha, master of hair ceremonies James Pecis, who was working with L’Oréal Paris, says his inspiration was “being able to take things to the next level – I just thought it would be cool to knot hair into a series of nine twists down the centre of the head. It has an anarchy to it that was exactly what we were looking for”. These are the looks that allow hair stylists’ imagination to run wild and have no bounds where creativity is concerned, offering a delightful refreshing alternative take on the up-do.

Bernard Chandran

Issey Miyake

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label

Issey Miyake

Temperley London

Issey Miyake

Bernard Chandran

r u n w ay t r e n d s

GET THE LOOK

Issey Miyake

Hair: Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals The Look: A minimal mohawk made up of two French pleats How: To start, coat hair in a mist of Wella Professionals Care Perfect Setting Blow Dry Spray and dry back up and off the face for a clean silhouette. Taking a section from

each side of the head, spray with Stay Styled, before back combing each panel of hair. One-by-one, roll each section to the side of the head into a French pleat and secure with pins. Smooth the rest of the hair down before treating ends to a spritz of Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray for a lived-in feel.

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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warriors

Giles

Braided Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Giles

Karen Walker

Antonio Berardi Alberta Ferretti Alon Livne

Ask any hair stylist which look is most reminiscent of the summer season and there will be unequivocally one answer that stands head and shoulders above the rest: the braid. And as summer’s staple storms the catwalk for the new season, it has been given a nomadic and tribal twist in line with the trend for the more exotic on the catwalks. In fact, these are no ordinary braids. Backstage at Giles, Toni&Guy’s global creative director, Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, dreamt up a Braveheart-inspired look, which required two stylists per model for the four-stranded, double-knotted weave. “It’s about taking a classic style and making it more intricate,” says Sacha. At Rachel Zoe, Moroccanoil stylist Antonio Calero opted for a more boho take on the trend, in keeping with the designer’s signature style for a hippie chic vibe that was inspired by windswept safari days and subtle tribal details. What could be more of an ode to the braid than TIGI global creative director Nick Irwin’s ethnic, bohemian cool offering for Mara Hoffman? It’s waist-length, it’s accented with Aztec print fabric, and it’s so ornate it’s a fashion accessory in and of itself. Mr Irwin was clearly in the mood to weave for S/S14 as he also created more street style-inspired braids for Alon Levin in a tougher take on the tribal look. To ease into the trend however, start with a ‘girl gang’ cool single braid nestled amongst ever-soslightly touselled waves as seen at Antonio Berardi and created by Wella Professionals’ Eugene Souleiman, Redken’s Guido Palau’s pretty takes at Alberta Ferretti and Dolce & Gabbana, or at Karen Walker by Bumble and bumble’s legendary Laurent Philippon. Plaits the way to do it.

Nasir Mazhar

Rachel Zoe

Antonio Berardi

Carven

Karen Walker

Giles

Dolce & Gabbana

Mara Hoffman

r u n w ay t r e n d s

GET THE LOOK

Mara Hoffman

Hair: Nick Irwin for TIGI The Look: Ethnic and bohemian waist-length plaits wrapped in fabric How: Treat hair to a generous amount of Curlesque Strong Mousse to act as the ‘grip’ for the braid. Sweeping hair into a clean side-parting, weave two plaits on either side of the head, securing

the ends with an elastic and smooth any flyaways with Session Series True Wax. If hair is short, twist both braids up into a chignon, or for longer lengths, bind the base of the plaits with some printed fabric and join the ends of the two plaits together. Seal with Session Series Work It Hairspray. Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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straight

DKNY

P l ay i n g Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Johnathan Simkhai

Chris Raeburn

Monique Lhuillier

Frankie Morello

DKNY

Say goodbye to volume and classic curls as the much loved and very much traditional bouncy blow-dry has been reinvented into a sleeker version of its former self: it’s straight, glossy, crisply parted (side or centre – take your pick) and slightly rounded at the ends for a groomed finish. Seen at shows from New York all the way through to Paris, this was the style of choice at shows such as Monique Lhuillier, Helmut Lang, DKNY, Matthew Williamson and Balmain. Coming into its own backstage at Burberry Prorsum, the ‘new-age blow-dry’ was created by Neil Moodie, who worked with Moroccanoil’s now-iconic smoothing products to cast models’ hair into these straight, centre-parted styles. Why? “To give the classic English rose a little injection of some London girl cool by keeping volume to an absolute minimum,” says Neil. Another purveyor of ‘London girl cool’ is the mighty Christopher Kane, who worked with Redken creative consultant Guido Palau to continue the aesthetic of the Kane girl being the girl that every other girl wants to be. “The hair is good quality, but it isn’t blow-dried to within an inch of its life,” explains Guido, “which gives a ‘real’ quality to hair.” But don’t think that because this look is slightly more pared-down that it is any less high-maintenance. It involves high-octane shine, which calls for a full blow-dry, followed by smoothing over with some hair irons and generous applications of serums and shine sprays to bring a luxurious order to proceedings. Pantene’s Sam McKnight took things one step further – as he is known for doing – at Dries Van Noten by ironing out models’ hair into dead-straight locks, before painting the low side-partings with 24-carat gold leaf. The most expensive style on the catwalk? Damn straight.

Balmain

Prada

Jen Kao

Monique Lhuillier

DKNY

Narciso Rodriguez

Dries Van Noten

Burberry Prorsum

r u n w ay t r e n d s

GET THE LOOK

Marc by Marc Jacobs Hair: Guido Palau for Redken The Look: Undone, unrefined straighter looks provided perfect contrast to highly stylised finishes How: At Marc by Marc Jacobs, Guido gave every model a style that enhanced her own natural cut and hair color. “I wanted the hair to have a natural look,” he says. “It’s meant to seem like you

haven’t tried at all.” Prep the hair with satinwear 02 heat spray to the roots and lengths to protect hair from the heat, then blow-dry smooth, creating a centre-parting. For a little body, apply powder refresh 01 to the roots, and then smooth the lengths and ends with a drop of diamond oil shatterproof shine. Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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fo l ly

Alexis Barrell

Sea

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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3.1 Phillip Lim

Paul Smith

Felder Felder

Alexander Wang

Felder Felder

A collective sigh of relief. Hair has moved away from last season’s obsession with the not-so-wearable-albeit-beautiful ‘wet-look’ into something more attainable, alluring and coastal-inspired. It’s sun-baked, sea-salt sprayed and tousled in texture, as hair stylists looked to the sunnier side of life for beach-inspired style. Let the catwalks be an example of the sheer variety of these seaside waves: from the ‘shipwrecked’ slick fringe across the forehead created by Paul Hanlon, using Schwarzkopf Professional, for 3.1 Phillip Lim; to the ‘luxe surfer hair’ by Sam McKnight at both Mulberry and Paul Smith, to the ‘mermaid’ hair at Felder Felder by Jonny Engstrom for L’Oréal Professionnel; and the ‘Daria Werbowy after a beach party in Ibiza’ hair by Anthony Turner for L’Oréal Professionnel backstage at Topshop Unique. “These styles have an ease to them, but the look is still sexy and strong. It’s every girl’s dream holiday hair – created on home turf,” affirms Anthony. For variations on a theme, see the beachy knot backstage at Palmer Harding by Stephen Lowe for L’Oréal Professionnel, as well as the piled-up chignon at Alexis Barrell by Adam Reed for Wella Professionals. Adam also slicked it back at House of Holland for BaByliss PRO, where he described the look as “just the right side of Mexican street”. For something a little stronger, see colourist Alex Brownsell’s show of colour at Fyodor Golan, where she worked with KMS California to fashion bright pink temporary dye into models’ hairlines for the ultimate beach babe effect. Naturally, this look relies on product and tonnes of it to evoke a watery mood – texturisers, salt sprays, mousse, hairsprays – you name it, it was piled in there, and as if not to defer too much from last season’s slick hair offering, the more visible the product the better. Oh, we do like to be beside the seaside.

Fyodor Golan

House of Holland

Images courtesy of Aveda, BaByliss PRO, Bumble and bumble, ghd, KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Pantene, Redken, Sam McKnight, Schwarzkopf Professional, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

Palmer Harding

Alexis Barrell

Hervé Léger

Topshop Unique

r u n w ay t r e n d s

GET THE LOOK

Felder Felder

Hair: Jonny Engstrom for L’Oréal Professionnel The Look: Mermaid-inspired wet-look with a touch of exotic colour How: Dampen hair down using L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.ART Full Volume Extra Mousse, working in with fingers from root

to tip. Using tecni.ART Liss Control, scrunch hair with further product for a really saturated finish. Colour in the ends using Colour Chalks: Ocean Blue for brunettes and Coral Pink for blondes and then finish with lashings of tecni.ART Gloss Spray.

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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R E:C R E ATE What’s to

really the

happening

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backstage?

styles take

under

closer

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this

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look…

Mara Hoffman

Let’s

from

Consider

HEROGRAM A special shout-out to the Mason Pearson brush – the backstage stylist’s most loyal and trustworthy tool. It’s known for its ability to smooth curls, gently tease volume and brush out even the most lacquered of styles – all without damaging the hair. Seen everywhere from the back pocket to the dressing table this season, we are paying homage to the little gem that has provided special services to hairdressing seasons past, present and beyond.

NEW STYLIST ALERT! What is this we see? Actress Katie Holmes mussing up hair backstage with Alterna at her Holmes & Yang presentation in New York? To good effect, we might add. Perhaps this is a new career in the making… 46

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Ohne Titel

r u n w ay r e - c r e at e

SEEING C O L O UR

Fyodor Golan

Ashish

Meadham Kirchhoff

With the wealth of new hair colour and chalks being launched by brands such as Bleach, Fudge, Bumble and bumble and L’Oréal Professionnel, it’s no surprise that this wash-in/wash-out trend is staying firmly in place. Seen as racing stripes down the head at Ohne Titel by Bumble and bumble’s Jimmy Paul and painted into the hairline by Alex Brownsell for Goldwell/KMS California at Fyodor Golan, this is summer’s rebellious answer to party hair.

Missoni

You can thank Sam McKnight for the storming trend of wigs on the summer catwalk. In a continuation of last season’s love affair with them, they were seen at Fendi, Chanel and L’Wren Scott, all tenderly prepared by Sam and his team to create unique styles. But don’t worry, you don’t have to reach for the full-on wig just yet. Ease clients in with a clip-on ponytail, as seen at Missoni by Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals, or a faux-fringe seen on models at Acne, also by Eugene. This look is more covetable than you may think…

Chanel

Fendi

WIG WHAM

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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THE HIGHER THE HAIr… …the closer to heaven; in which case, the models at Vivienne Westwood Gold Label must have felt positively saintly, thanks to their whipped-up, vertiginous up-dos by Sam McKnight for ghd. Created in homage to times gone by and infused with the essence of Vivienne’s signature style, the only way is up!

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Badgley Mischka

r u n w ay r e - c r e at e

Pearce Fionda

DO THE TWIST

IT’S A BUG’S

It’s the malleable quality of hair that allows hairdressers’ creativity to have no bounds when it comes to up-dos. ‘Doing the twist’ allows stylists to wrap hair up into elaborate and feminine styles that might not be the easiest to recreate, but sure do make an impact when sauntering down the runway. Look to Moroccanoil stylist Peter Gray’s loosely turned false bob at Badgley Mischka, Darren Fowler for L’Oréal Professionnel’s red carpet-esque, feminine and loose chignon at Bernard Chandran, or even Toni&Guy’s Richard Mannah’s shell-inspired creation for Pearce Fionda for inspiration. We’re going round the twist.

LIFE

At first sight of the models’ ‘antennae hair’, you could be forgiven for thinking that you had mistakenly walked onto the set of fashion-inspired sci-fi movie. But Bumble and bumble’s Bianca Tuovi, backstage at Sophia Webster, was following the brief of “an insect at a slumber party” when these creations came into being. Props needed for the look? Strong fishing wire, nimble fingers and a devil-may-care attitude.

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Anna Sui Ashley Isham Ashley Isham

Jean-Pierre Braganza

FEELING KINKY As the saying goes: once is a one-off, twice is a coincidence, three is a trend. So consider kinky hair officially a trend, as seen at Anna Sui, Ashley Isham and Jean-Pierre Braganza. Toni&Guy’s Indira Schauwecker, backstage at JeanPierre Braganza, describes this as ‘new age bedhead’ and it most certainly takes the pressure off feeling the need to have perfect hair. Created backstage using tongs or straighteners to deliberately dent the hair, there is always that age-old formula of sleeping with your hair tied up in an elastic. Supremely coollooking and a cinch to recreate.

TUCK IT UP Dubbed by TIGI’s Nick Irwin as “sweater hair” behind-the-scenes at Antipodium, there was nothing more chic than his simple and uncontrived tucking away of models’ lengths. As much of a deliberate fashion styling note as it was a hairstyle, the nonchalance adds a little je ne sais quoi to the look. “Full of static and flyaways like you have just pulled a jumper over your hair and left your hair like that, it’s like a clean version of grunge,” he explains. Tuck us up!

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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WITH THE B AN D Oh hairband, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways… from sporty at Vera Wang and regal at Valentino to prim and proper at Moschino and slightly tribal at Prada, there was a hairband for every taste this season. A true extension of the collections they feature as part of, these hair accessories are the perfect accent to any outfit.

Valentino Images courtesy of Alterna, Bumble and bumble, ghd, KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Pantene, Sassoon, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

Moschino

Vera Wang

r u n w ay r e - c r e at e

PARTING WAYS

Edeline Lee

Dries Van Noten

How to spice up a style? Why not try painting the parting, as seen at Dries Van Noten by Sam McKnight, as well as at Edeline Lee by the Sassoon team. Whether you choose from opulent 24ct gold leaf or graphic white paint, this is the grown up way of colouring inside the lines…

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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TITAN I U M E XP R E S SIO N WAVI N G WAN D A straight barrel wand to create soft curls and waves. The barrel has a premium titanium finish for added shine and is extra long for easy use and consistent results even on longer hair.

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Premium titanium with ultraadvanced ceramic heaters giving instant heat transfer into the hair for fast, flawless results.

TITAN I U M E XP R E S SIO N CO N IC AL WAN D Our new conical wands with a longer length barrel and a true titanium finish are perfect for creating curls and texture even on longer hair.

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how

hair

happens

W a n t to k n ow how a loo k c o m es to g ethe r b a c k sta g e ? T a k e a p ee k b eh i n d the s c e n es at L o n do n F ash i o n W ee k

A quiet moment for Chrysostomos (pictured below with hairdryer) to brief his team. They are shown the step-by-step before going back to their own stations. That’s a lot of concentration for a 6am call time…

THE SHOW BORA AKSU THE LEAD Chrysostomos Chamalidis for KMS California

“I wanted to evoke the style of a beautiful Turkish peasant girl, who has been outside working in the fields all day. It’s youthful and fresh with a windswept texture”

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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how

hair

happens

W a n t to k n ow how a loo k c o m es to g ethe r b a c k sta g e ? T a k e a p ee k b eh i n d the s c e n es at L o n do n F ash i o n W ee k

THE SHOW BORA AKSU THE LEAD Chrysostomos Chamalidis for KMS California

“I wanted to evoke the style of a beautiful Turkish peasant girl, who has been outside working in the fields all day. It’s youthful and fresh with a windswept texture”

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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THE SHOW EKATERINA THE LEAD Pinar Necati for Toni&Guy Session Team Hair was pulled up in to two tight ear-like buns high up on the head. Think Minnie Mouse, only more sophisticated

“This hair has a Geisha feel to it, but with the ‘ears’ effect it is also quite child-like and playful”

An ornate shade umbrella, combined with the headpieces, allowed for a traditional Geisha effect

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r u n w ay H o w h a i r h a p p e n s

Taking its cue from Japanese cherry blossoms, make-up was a fusion of fuchsia and crimson, swirled around the eyes and up into the temples for a diffused, blown-out effect

To invisibly secure the ‘ears’ without any of the elastic bands being on show, hair was looped over and sewn in place using long reams of black elastic. Seamless

The team of models, set designers and designer Ekaterina (in the pink jeans) stood together post-show for a celebratory family portrait

For a high-shine finish models’ hair was doused in label.m Shine Spray and Hairspray

The headpieces by milliner Lara Jensen were created especially for the show and had flowers sewn into the net

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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THE SHOW MARK FAST THE LEAD Nick Irwin for TIGI The epitome of morning-after-the-night-before hair, these wigs (the cheaper the better, according to Nick), were treated with irons to melt down the synthetic strands to create a matte lived-in texture

“The collection was a celebration of the spirit of youth, so I wanted to pay homage to the true gothic raver: she’s been up partying all night and everything about her shouts anti-structure”

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r u n w ay H o w h a i r h a p p e n s

Made in advance of show time, and individually razored to suit each model’s face, it means that a hairstylists’ job is made ever-so-slightly easier on the day

For extra anarchy, models’ lips were painted glossy vinyl black and nails painted a vampirish oxblood

Inspirations for the beauty look included Wednesday Addams, Marilyn Manson and Camden goths, set against a soundtrack of Primal Scream, Acid Trance and The Soft Moon

These show-cards have all the details so that they can get the look just right for the designer

TIGI, ever the innovator, showcased its ‘SprayCam’ this season, a tiny video camera below the nozzle. The result? A bird’s eye view backstage, the videos and pictures were loaded onto its Instagram feed

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ING! L R A D E. L R I Y A T H S E S F T LI E S T FABULOU E J AS A T S A F S IR A A H S S. E U G O L U B CHAN S FA E N I H S O. IR R A P H . E H U S R RU EAT K I L S WASH. B E USH R B K C ND BA A S KE. E O S R I T M S U H L S VO BRU F O D N I NT K E R E TH. F O F I O D M A S S Y ABL GIVE N O I H S A NG F I K O O L HAIR S E V A E L

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Jean-Pierre Braganza. Image courtesy of Toni&Guy

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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B e a u t y c o n tract : Global cosmetics creative design director for Procter & Gamble, she is behind some of the world’s most influential make-up brands – MaxFactor in the UK and CoverGirl in the US. She was also the make-up artist behind the launch of Dolce & Gabbana cosmetics and continues to be involved with the line.

Images courtesy of Estée Lauder Cosmetics, MaxFactor, Moroccanoil, Nars and Redken 64

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Considered one of, if not the, most influential make-up artist in the world. You name a big show and she’s most probably the make-up artist behind the look. Best known for her daring, theatrical finishes, her imagination knows no bounds and was most opulently displayed in the days when John Galliano was head designer at the house of Dior.

S i g n at u r e st y l e :

Anna Sui, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Gucci, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Prada, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Versace, Victoria Beckham. B ac k stag e C V :

M o st pr o l i f i c sh o w m o m e n t f o r S / S14 :

At Givenchy, she embellished faces with thousands of Swarovski crystals to create a 3D tribal mask.

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B e a u t y c o n tract : Creative make-up director for Estée Lauder Cosmetics, Parisian native Tom sets the bar for the artistic direction that the colour collections take, including everything from lipsticks and eyeshadows to nails.

Best known for his playful use of colour, he’s an artist in the true sense of the word, creating looks that resemble watercolour paintings.

S i g n at u r e st y l e :

B ac k stag e C V : Altuzarra, Badgley Mischka, Balmain, Blumarine, Derek Lam, Isabel Marant, Marni, Max Mara, Ralph Lauren. M o st pr o l i f i c sh o w m o m e n t f o r S / S14 :

The rivets of cubist black eyeliner at Derek Lam, which turned the classic notion of the old eyeliner adage of ‘the feline flick’ on its head. D i d y o u k n o w ? One of Tom’s best friends is ex-editor-in-chief of French Vogue and current editor-in-chief of CR Fashion Book, Carine Roitfeld – he makes an appearance in her documentary, Mademoiselle C. Oh, and he used to be a pastry chef!

D i d y o u k n o w ? Adding to her long list of accolades, she was recently awarded an MBE for services to the fashion and beauty industry in the New Year Honours list of 2014.

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r u n w ay m a k e - u p

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B e a u t y c o n t r a ct : Global artistic director for Revlon, she is at the front line of new product development, citing Just Bitten Kissable Lipstains and Baby Stick Lip and Cheek Tints as some of her most popular projects with the brand.

Creamy, highlighted skin and full-on red lips are two of her hallmarks backstage. Known to be a master at playing with light and shade, her contouring skills are second to none.

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B e a u t y c o n t r a ct : Although closely affiliated with Nars, MAC and Sunday Riley backstage at the shows, Diane isn’t tied down by one particular make-up brand, making her a free agent in the world of make-up. She was heavily involved in the creation of the Calvin Klein cosmetics brand, too.

S ig n a t u r e st y l e :

B a c k st a ge C V : Antonio Berardi, J. Mendel, Marchesa, Oscar de la Renta, rag & bone. M o st p r o l i f ic s h o w m o me n t f o r S / S14 :

The bright red lips at Antonio Berardi. Created by layering no less than five layers of lipstick. D id y o u k n o w ? Originally Chelsea Westman, she chose the name Gucci —short for ‘Gurucharan’, which is Hindi for ‘she who sits at the feet of the guru’ – after a two-year stint in an ashram. She is married to David Neville, one half of the design duo behind rag & bone and she also played a small cameo in the Sex and The City movie.

Diane creates the ‘no make-up make-up’ looks. Best known for creating that ‘raw’ skin effect, she almost never works with make-up brushes, preferring to use her fingers to fuse make-up with skin for a supremely natural finish. Boyish, bushy brows are also one of her trademarks.

S ig n a t u r e st y l e :

B a c k st a ge C V : Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Carolina Herrera, Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, Tory Burch.

M o st p r o l i f ic s h o w m o me n t f o r S / S14 :

Flexing her make-up muscles, Diane went beyond the natural she is celebrated for to create subversive, deep wine-stained lips at Helmut Lang. D id y o u k n o w ? She counts hairdresser Guido Palau as one of her nearest and dearest. Friends for more than three decades, they moved from England to New York at the same time in the mid ’80s, living just one block from each other.

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Acne S/S14. Photography by Matt Lever 66

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Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Ports 1961 S/S14 Georgia May Jagger for H&M

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“Good morning matey!” comes a chipper voice down the phone. It’s 6.30am. On a Monday morning. Perhaps, you might think, not the best time to be interviewing one of the most prolific session hairdressers of his generation? But Eugene Souleiman’s enthusiasm, humour and boundless energy, even at this forsaken hour, is all part of the charm he’s known for. With a career spanning more than 25 years, it’s amazing to think how many different hairstyles he has created (it’s impossible to count!). So how does Eugene keep it fresh? How is he constantly inspired season after season, show after show, shoot after shoot? “To be quite honest, I don’t really know, but I guess there are two things that really save me, and the first one is fear! Fear of not doing a good job can totally motivate you”. Okay, so if fear is the first, then what is the second? “I get bored quite easily. It’s an ideal characteristic for this trade. It’s precisely because of this that I am constantly thinking about what I do. In my head I am always working, even if I am just walking down the street I am seeing people and thinking ‘this will work for that designer for that show’. I never really turn off.”

The hallmark of a workaholic, his passion drives him and explains why he is so widely know as one of the hardest-working stylists in the business. “I really love what I do. I know it’s a cliché but it’s true,” he explains. “To achieve any kind of success there has to be a certain love for what you do and a willingness to go the extra mile. It’s when you’re too comfortable that it’s easy to slip into a formula”. To that end, he has created some of the most avant-garde styles to appear in editorial, in campaigns and on catwalks in recent years. Lady Gaga’s bob in her Alejandro video? That was Eugene. Remember Georgia May Jagger as a ’60s bombshell in the H&M campaign? Eugene. How about the pastel ombré hair at Peter Som two seasons ago, before anyone was doing pastels or ombré? Yup, Eugene. No single finish looks like the other; the only Souleiman signature is that they are completely different and perfectly executed. He works regularly with fashion photographer greats such as Craig McDean and Steven Klein and he is fiercely loyal to his close-knit set. “I try not to jump around too much and work with too many different people because I like the creative security and support we give each other,” he reveals. “It gives me the confidence to do things that I wouldn’t normally do. I might have an idea for make-up and vice-versa – that’s the great thing about a really good team, you kind of swap roles.” Eugene as a make-up artist might be a somewhat interesting concept, but this affiliation comes alongside another close relationship with

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Felder Felder A/W13

Winning Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted Hair Icon 2013

Haider Ackermann A/W13

McQueen S/S94, photography Catwalking.com

Vanessa Bruno S/S14

Haider Ackermann S/S14

Peter Som S/S14

r u n w ay p r o f i l e

on his agenda, and he, more often than not, just goes another fashion great, which is make-up artist Pat McGrath. “We worked with his gut instinct when creating styles. “I don’t alongside each other at the same time in London and when things started think about being a trendsetter because that’s not happening for us in the US, we were already a team. At the time we were what I’m into,” he explains. “When you start to think really only just working for i-D.” The turning point was when McDean of things in that way you lose something in terms of and Klein started to shoot with French and Italian Vogue, bringing Pat creativity and personality. You constantly have to and Eugene along with them for the ride. “That’s when things really break a formula. Fashion started to kick off. The grunge thing we is about movement and were into really did us well because there “Fashion is about change, so it’s important wasn’t anything like that around. There to not be stuck in a was no real direction in fashion at that movement and change, specific mind-set.” point in time where hair was concerned. so it’s important to Signed to agency It was all glamorous salon supermodel not be stuck in a Streeters, he works with hair. It’s interesting actually because some of the big-name now it’s almost gone full circle. Now we specific mind-set” hitters in the industry are the ones doing ‘glamour’ and it looks Eugene Souleiman such as Missoni, Tommy cool. Some days I think: ‘Oh… I’m doing Hilfiger and Stella what I started out to destroy’. You know, McCartney, as well as some of the more offbeat it’s like that moment when you suddenly have the realisation that you are brands that still have major fashion kudos, including turning into your parents,” he laughs. Comme des Garçons, Ann Demeulemeester and Yohji An innovative spirit, it’s this mild sense of anarchy that has allowed Yamamoto. For him, it’s this mixed bag that has him to be characterised as a key influencer in terms of trends, and why allowed him to add different strings to his bow. He Wella Professionals snapped him up as a global creative director. By his says: “I love doing Donna Karan as much as I do own admission, conforming and appeasing is not something that’s high Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Italian Vogue. Photography by Craig McDean

which is really hard to do. It was a complete look,” he muses. Yohji Yamamoto. The bigger shows are amazing When asked about his first show experience, he says, rather because we are able to do something beautiful nonchalantly: “It was Alexander McQueen. I wasn’t even aware of the through minimalism. Whereas at the smaller shows big thing I was being part of – it was his second collection at Bluebird we try do something with a twist. I like to try to Garage for a collection called ‘Nihilism’. I remember thinking he was just reinvent the wheel and come up with something that a really nice bloke. I was really naïve about it – he reminded me of people hasn’t been done before”. I grew up with, which is so rare in the fashion industry. He wanted hard Case in point: the blonde wigs that defied gravity and unusual hair and I loved it. He then did at Haider Ackermann “I just did a job with a show called ‘The Birds’ and that was the last season, or his show that put him on the map. I didn’t French pleated Scarlett Johansson realise at the time how major it was’. The mohawks for Issey and it was shot on an hair he created for that show is still Miyake the season just iPhone. I love how we referenced today – a slick side-parting with gone. Simply Eugmasses of volume and dyed black ends. enius. But what did he a r e c h a n g i n g t h e way As a man whose work is constantly love in terms of what we digest information” evolving and, like any artist, is always he created for S/S14? eugene souleiman looking for new means of inspiration, he is “I loved the Donna embracing the modern era – and one Karan show for its element of social media specifically. “I am not into any of that Facebook simplicity. Her collection was tribal-inspired, but I or Twitter stuff, but I am really into Instagram,” Eugene enthuses. “It’s a didn’t want to do the whole ‘ethnic’ thing. It was quite moodboard of my life. I like putting up stupid things like my face on nice to have a severe and graphic hairstyle. Sylvester Stallone’s body, or other things that interest me, like Dr Spock “It was hair that was well done, very well getting his hair cut on set.” His profile is a real insight into the workings executed and precise and every girl looked the same, 70

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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Interview. Photography by Mikael Jansson

r u n w ay p r o f i l e

of his mind. Click on it and you will stumble upon his latest editorial work, pictures on the walls of Mexican restaurants, illustrations of Victorian hairstyles, snaps of Andy Warhol’s wigs, or pictures of Melbourne beach, where he is currently residing with his family. Appealing to his democratic senses, he likes how the social media platform gives people – anyone – a voice. “I prefer how it gives people the chance to do stuff and put stuff out there no matter who they are. I like it when people have really thought about the pictures they are sharing and want to show and there is thought that has gone into them”. Remarkably, he has even taken on assistants after they got in touch with him on social media, explaining: “at the end of the day it’s a good thing because it breaks down barriers – I might never have access to people this way otherwise.” The more he talks about it, the more animated he gets, describing how he wants to use it as a new way in which to showcase his work. “I really want to do slow-motion videos. I just did a job for Dazed and Confused with Scarlett Johansson and it was shot on an iPhone for the website. I love how we are changing the way we digest information. It was like an old ‘70s Avedon perfume ad. It was epic.” Excited about being on the cusp of these new mediums to feed his creative energy, it perhaps was a fitting time for him to be nominated for – and win – Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted HAIR ICON 2013 Award. An accolade so well deserved, but still managed to take him by surprise.

“I was so flattered – and actually very surprised to have won it. It was a really big honour and it was voted for by peers, which means a lot to me”. In a night hosted by comedian Russell Kane, Eugene also found it an opportunity to chat with his mentor, Trevor Sorbie, the first salon owner to give him a job. “It was so nice to catch up with Trevor. I owe so much to him I wouldn’t have amounted to anything if it wasn’t for him”, he says humbly. “I was crap at everything apart from drawing. I was not academic in any way and Trevor gave me a chance. He is a cool person. He taught me so much about everything not just about hair, about life, a whole philosophy”. A modest man who never forgets his roots or who has helped him along the way, he has a quirky side that plays to his advantage. “Nuts hair doesn’t come from an accountant does it? It comes from someone who is nuts themselves,” he explains. “Something new comes from alternative thinking. If you want something unusual it has to come from a mind that is quirky and eccentric – and that’s exactly me. It drives my wife crazy, but variety is the spice of life, right?” So it is, Eugene, so it is. Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Up in the air with Sassoonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bruce Masefield at Edeline Lee

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Blinging it at Hood by Air

Back of the net! Toni&Guy’s Richard Mannah at Pearce Fionda

Pucker up! It’s Osman Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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Young lady, if the wind changesâ&#x20AC;Ś lip service at The Blonds

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Off the grid at Edeline Lee

Nailed at Ruffian

SPF? WTF? At Jean-Paul Lespagnard Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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The beauty press close in at Mark Fast

Love hearts at Nasir Mazhar

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Images courtesy of Bumble and Bumble, Sassoon, TIGI and Toni&Guy

A star is born at Pearce Fionda

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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I studied for a degree in Illustration and Animation at Kingston University with the hope of becoming an illustrator. After I graduated I found it hard to find any type of job as a recession had just hit. My mum encouraged me to go on some courses at her college so that I would always have a skill behind me to make money (she had been in the beauty industry for 20 years and taught at a East Kent College). I studied short courses in make-up and nail technology and found that I had a real passion for nail art. I had always been around nail art as my mum had always loved it (in the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;90s she used to teach courses and painted my nails with Union flags when I went to see the Spice Girls in concert) but I never thought I could actually have a career in it.

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R : W h at w e r e yo u r f i r s t s t e p s i n e s ta b l i s h i n g yo u r s e l f i n th e i n dustry? SH - G : After I had qualified as a nail technician I

applied for a job in a salon in London. Nail art was just starting to get more noticed and was becoming a real trend, so I went and worked at a salon that was doing a lot of cool nail art. I spent a year there and honed my skills, but I got bored of doing the same old designs, day-in day-out. So I decided to go freelance in the hope of being more creative and started my blog, The Illustrated Nail (theillustratednail.tumblr.com). There were not a lot of nail blogs out there at the time so it quickly gained quite a large following. R : W h at h a p p e n e d n e x t ? SH - G : As my blog grew in popularity I started

getting bookings for shoots, shows and celebrity clients. Eventually I signed with my agent Emma Davies and have become more of a session nail stylist, working on magazines and fashion campaigns, such as for Dior, Nails Inc and OPI, and with and celebrities such as Boy George, Rihanna and Rita Ora.

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Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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R : W h a t h av e b e e n t h e g r e a t e s t i n f l u e n c e s o n yo u r wo r k? SH - G : I can be inspired by anything and everything;

Nasir, Mark Fast, PPQ, Hannah Marshall, Matthew Williamson and Antipodium.

art, tattoos, architecture and so on. When I’m out I take lots of pictures of things I see that I think would make amazing nail designs. I’m heavily influenced by fashion and really enjoy creating nails inspired from prints, patterns and textures from the catwalk.

R : W h a t a r e t h e k e y n a i l t r e n d s f o r S / S14 ? SH - G : The S/S14 shows saw a lot of matte nude nails and floating nail

R : W h a t h av e b e e n s o m e o f t h e f av o u r i t e l o o k s y o u ’ v e c r e a t e d ? SH - G : My first ever fashion shoot was working with

musician MIA for W magazine with Donatella Versace. I created a floral, Versace-inspired design for MIA, and Donetella said she loved the nails, so that definitely makes it a firm favourite of mine. I’ve also been working a lot with Dior and the nail looks I created for them I really enjoyed and love.

designs, which is nail art detailing on top of a natural or clear base. There is still a real emphasis on texture, so matte and glossy finishes are combined, as well as metallics and embellishments. The white nail trend will continue on in to next summer with added accents and details in metallics. Nail art has become much more grown up and sophisticated, so think minimal nail art, geometric patterns, grids and stripe detailing. The classic half moon is also set to be a big trend for S/S14. R : I s t h e r e a l o t o f p r e s s u r e t o t o p w h at’s b e e n c r e at e d t h e p r e v i o u s s e a s o n ? SH - G : Actually, I think it’s all just about creating something that works

well and feels right for each collection.

R : W h i c h s h o w s h av e y o u b e e n pa r t o f at L o n d o n Fa s h i o n W e e k? SH - G : Last season I headed Daks, Teatum Jones

R: Nail products overtook sales of lipstick for the first time l ast year – why are they so popular? SH - G : It’s such a great form of expression for women and its something

and Jasper Conran. I’ve also worked on shows for

that everyone can have a go at. I feel that a lot people find it therapeutic,

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r u n w ay p r o f i l e

almost a release. It’s an affordable luxury that everyone can achieve. If you can’t afford the latest Dior look or Prada print you certainly will be able to afford to have it painted on your nails, or recreate the look on your nails yourself. It’s definitely recession-proof. There are so many more options than just a plain colour like a lipstick and it allows you to be more daring. For example a green lipstick might look a bit ‘in your face’ but wearing it on your nails just works – anything goes! The possibilities are endless. There are so many options with DIY kits and effects as people are becoming more and more creative with their manicures. I think women are willing to try more new things when it comes to nails. It’s so much easier to go crazy on your nails than it is to have a drastic haircut and we usually stay with the same make-up look as we know what suits us. But with nails you don’t have that worry, you don’t have to be completely dedicated. You can remove it and try something new over and over again. R: Has social media made a big difference to yo u r c a r e e r ? S H - G : The internet has a lot to do with the rise in popularity of lacquer

and nail art. The nail blogging phenomenon has been incredible. It’s made people much more aware of what’s out there – new colours, new textures, new trends and a host of incredible artists. I think you’ll find the most liked pictures on the whole of Instagram are of nails and cats!

Without my blog I wouldn’t be in the position I am today. It’s made the public and industry aware of my work and through my blog I have been asked to work on some of the best jobs. There’s definitely been a big focus on the celebrity and red carpet manicure and I think this has also played a big part in increasing people’s interest in nail art. R : W h at’s b e e n t h e b i g g e s t b ac k s tag e c h a l l e n g e yo u ’ v e fac e d ? S H - G : The biggest challenge on a show is the amount of

time you have to get all of the models’ nails ready. Models arrive late from other shows and it is a race against time to remove the look they have on from the previous show and get the nails painted perfectly for this one especially when the make up and hair team have to work their magic at the same time. It can be pretty close to call and very stressful! R: W h os e n a i l s wo u ld yo u lov e to d o? S H - G : I’d love to do Katy Perry and Beyoncé’s

nails as I love their styles; they obviously love nail art as they are seen wearing it quite often when performing. I feel I could have a lot of fun with these two artists!

Spring/Summer 2014 Runway

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r u n w ay S/ S14 H a i r i s …

3 “Bringing the street to the cat walk. Real, ac h i e va b l e h a i r are its hallmarks”

“Glamorous with a l i tt l e b i t o f a n edge. Hair is simple in style but effective in statement”

Nick Irwin, global creative director, TIGI

Eugene Souleiman, global director for styling, Wella Professionals

Guido Palau, creative consultant, Redken

“ T o ta l ly effortless. Even u p- d os h av e a certain ease to them – they are light and fluffy and flow down t h e r u n way”

“Weird and wonderful, with something for everyone”

Anthony Turner, styling ambassador, L’Oréal Professionnel

Peter Gray, session stylist

A summ ary of the season, in the words of the professionals

“ S/S14 h a i r i s . . .”

“less about trends and more about creating st y les th at h av e a n a tt i t u d e a n d uniqueness to them. Anything goes!”

James Pecis, session stylist

Runway Spring/Summer 2014

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“Natur al, cool and unadorned. There is a tougher and g r i tt i e r t a k e o n hair for the summer season”

Paul Hanlon, session stylist

Sam McKnight, global creative director, ghd

“Luxurious! Being sleek and polished is the way t o m o d e r n i s e hair for a new season update”

Neil Moodie, session stylist

“a b o u t T e x t u r e . i t p l ays a k e y r o l e this season – e s p e c i a l ly contrasting textures for a t wo-tone effect”

Adam Reed, style ambassador, Wella; UK ambassador, BaByliss PRO

3 82

“not as contrived and more about a f e e l i n g . It ’ s n o t about references, but more about the idea of c r e at i n g a ‘ g i r l’”

Images courtesy of Bumble and bumble, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Redken, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

“The season for t h e ‘ g a n g s ’, w i t h the idea of hair uniting women into collectives and giving them a character, identity and u lt i m at e ly a s e n s e of belonging”

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Delivered fresh from th e c at walk F o l low @ C r e at i v eh e a d m ag f o r lo o ks i n a fl as h fro m

b a c k s ta g e g o s s i p a n d h o t t e s t h a i r l o o k s w i t h R u n way o n l i n e , o n ly at c r e at i v e h e a d m a g . c o m

‘Creative

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H EA D

magazine’

Pearce Fionda courtesy of Toni&Guy

t h e Fa s h i o n W e e k r u n way s , a n d c h e c k o u t t h e f u l l t r e n d r e p o r t s ,

@creativeheadm ag

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YOUR CONNECTION TO THE LATEST FASHION TRENDS DIRECT FROM BACKSTAGE