caféeuropa THE VOICE OF THE SPECIALITY COFFEE ASSOCIATION OF EUROPE
AUTUMN 2015
PAUL STACK SCAE’s new President talks growth, succession and alignment with the SCAA
GOTHENBURG REPORT The Champions, The Products, The Parties
ISSUE 61 WOMEN IN COFFEE + WATER RESEARCH + ROSS KOPI + COLAB + PERNILLA OLOW-GARD
At Host 2015 we’ve got something different planned. We’ll show the latest technologies and solutions for your coffee business, plus the workshops and tasting sessions that we’re famous for. But we also have plans to make things better than ever before. Come to D16 – E23, Pav 24 and find out how.
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Inside ISSUE 61 | AUTUMN 2O15
04 Welcome David Veal details the exciting activities planned by SCAE this autumn 06 Community The ‘Who’s Who’ of SCAE 10 Update Latest news from Europe’s coffee community 16 Calendar Dates for your diary
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18 Product News Hot products from SCAE members 20 Research Does water quality matter? SCAE commissioned research to find out 24 BGE Barista Camp is Coming 26 Cover Story Paul Stack discusses alignment with SCAA and his plans for his presidency 30 World of Coffee Gothenburg report
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41 Women in Coffee Women are taking on more prominent roles in coffee and the IWCA is there to support them 46 Interview Matthew Ross talks to Andra Vlaicu about civets, Ross Kopi, and overcoming kopi luwak’s bad reputation 50 Learning Rashel Winn reports from CoLab: Prague 54 Q&A We catch up with Pernilla Olow-Gard, daMatteo Marketing Manager and Nordic World of Coffee Local Project Manager
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54 CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 3
WELCOME
A great time to be part of our speciality coffee community
The SCAE team at the Nordic World of Coffee welcome reception
W
ell, wasn’t World of Coffee in Gothenburg a great experience? All of us who were there – and there were nearly 5,000 of us – had a truly outstanding week whatever our reasons for attending, and there were more reasons than ever to visit the event this year. We were also able to report at our AGM held in Gothenburg what a successful year 2014 was for SCAE, with membership expanding by 1,600 new members and our education programme continuing to grow.
As we all know, World of Coffee moves to Dublin next year and all of the signs indicate that it too will be a success. As an example, we sold 68% of our exhibition space for Dublin while we were in Gothenburg. Moreover, after a very long bidding process we have recently selected the venues for the following three World of Coffees. In 2017 we will go to the beautiful city of Budapest and we hope to be able to support and grow our membership in the east of Europe as a result of this. The year 2018 will see us head back to
Initiatives planned for the next few months include delivering sensory training to young people in Rwanda, offering barista skills training in UK prisons, and supporting the next Barista & Farmer event at the beginning of 2016, as well as organising field trips in Brazil and Indonesia later this year. Keep an eye out also for Barista Camp, CoLab Paris and our new Roasters’ Guild. In the last issue of Café Europa I wrote that the future starts in Gothenburg so I’d like to talk about the future now. Most people know that we are talking to the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) regarding the alignment of our activities and these talks should be concluded by early next year, at which point we should have some proposals to share. 4 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
the Netherlands and Amsterdam, a tier one city, which will make an excellent host for World of Coffee, and in 2019 we will go to Berlin which, as most people know, is not only a vibrant and developing city, but also has a great speciality coffee culture. We’re looking to further develop our education programme in the coming months, both in terms of content and
David Veal
our quality assurance programme, which ensures the integrity, transparency and quality of Coffee Diploma System. We recently signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Coffee Quality Institute whereby we will work together on Q grading in Europe and Coffee Diploma System in producing countries. Allied to education our research programmes are taking off and several challenging papers will be published over the next few months. Our new partnership agreement with Grounds for Health and the International Women's Coffee Alliance are beginning to work now and we will continue to work together with our existing partners, specifically the Brazilian Specialty Coffee Association. We have many other initiatives and activities happening over the next few months including delivering sensory training to young people in Rwanda, offering barista skills training in UK prisons, and supporting the next Barista & Farmer event at the beginning of 2016, as well as organising field trips in Brazil and Indonesia later this year. Barista Guild of Europe will hold its second Camp in Riccione, Italy in September and the second CoLab in Paris in November. Look out soon also for news of our new Roasters’ Guild. Finally, for those interested in ibrik coffee we are currently in the process of planning the 2016 World Championships which will be held in Gulfood, Dubai in February 2016. At SCAE we constantly seek to add to and enhance the benefits that we offer our members and some of the above activities are just a part of that. It is a great time, therefore, to be part of our fantastic speciality coffee community and there are so many good reasons to be a member of SCAE. If you’re not a member already, please join us, and if you are – invite someone else to join. You can find out how to become a member on our website, scae.com.
David Veal Executive Director Speciality Coffee Association of Europe
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SCAE BOARD OF DIRECTORS SCAE EXECUTIVE TEAM President Paul Stack (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems
David Veal, Executive Director Penny Hayward, Personal Assistant to Executive Director Membership Team
Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy), Toby Estates Vice President Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece), W.S. Karoulias Executive Director David Veal (UK), SCAE
Drewry Pearson (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems
Nils Erichsen (Germany), Ube Erichsen Beteiliungs
Jayne Richards, Membership Manager Jackie Malone, Chapter Coordinator Isa Verschraegen, BGE Coordinator Alison Wraight, Membership Advisor Leanne Celentano, Membership Coordinator Lewis Young, Data Analyst Lesley Potts, Membership Accounts Clerk Robyn Stevenson, Membership Administrator Anna Barlow, Retention Officer Education Team Susan Hollins, Education Manager Annemarie Tiemes, Education Field Manager Kim Staalman, Education Field Coordinator Owen Thom, Quality Coordinator Megan Guo, Asia Coordinator Aidan Jones, Education Administrator Kay Bennett, Education Administrator Alex Morrell, Education Administrator Events Team
Heinz Trachsel (Switzerland)
Garret Buckley, Events Manager Jens Henrik Thomsen, Sponsorship Coordinator Marketing Team
Luigi Morello (Italy), La Cimbali
James Humpoletz, Marketing Manager Andra Vlaicu, Marketing Assistant Richard Stiller, Marketing Assistant Keith Amos, Business Development Executive
Ludovic Maillard (France), Maison Jobin
Operations Team
Johan Damgaard (Sweden), Johan & Nystrรถm
David Hewitt, Operations Manager Denise Alborough, Senior Accounts Clerk Ellen Rogers, Accounts Clerk Caroline Newman, Accounts Clerk
SCAE COMMITTEES Alberto Polojac (Italy), Imperator
Christina Meinl (Austria), Julius Meinl
Frank Neuhausen (Germany), BWT water+more
Chahan Yeretzian (Switzerland), University of Zurich
Patrizia Cecchi (Italy), Rimini Fiera
James Shepherd (UK/Ireland), Beyond the Bean
Dale Harris (UK), Has Bean 6 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFร EUROPA
Membership Committee Yannis Apostolopoulos, Chair Heinz Trachsel, Vice Chair Luigi Morello Tomasz Obracaj Andrew Tolley Tibor Hajcsunk Dale Harris Isa Verschraegen David Veal Jayne Richards Education Committee Ludovic Maillard, Chair Paul Stack Paul Meikle-Janney Sonja Bjรถrk Grant David Locker Edouard Thomas John Thompson David Veal Susan Hollins Annemarie Tiemes
SCAE COMMUNITY
Events Committee Patrizia Cecchi, Chair Willem Husiman Grace O’Shaughnessy Anke Erichsen Brita Folmer David Veal Garret Buckley Marketing Committee Christina Meinl, Chair Johan Damgaard Dale Harris Maurizio Giuli Jörg Krahl David Veal James Humpoletz Audit Committee Nils Erichsen, Chair Mark Rose David Veal David Hewitt International Development Committee Alberto Polojac, Chair Mick Wheeler Max Fabian Colin Smith Angel Mario Martinez Garcia Inyoung Kim (Anna) David Veal Penny Hayward Research Committee Chahan Yeretzian, Chair Morten Munchow, Vice Chair Frank Neuhausen Lauro Fioretti Edouard Thomas David Veal Penny Hayward
OTHER SCAE ORGANISATIONS SCAE President’s Council President Paul Stack (Ireland) Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy) Vice President Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece) Treasurer Nils Erichsen (Germany) Executive Director David Veal (UK) Drewry Pearson (Ireland) SCAE Ambassadors SCAE has named the following Past Presidents of the Association as its Ambassadors: Alf Kramer (Norway) Patrick Bewley (Ireland) Mick Wheeler (UK) Trygve Klingenberg (Norway) Tomasz Obracaj (Poland)
Colin Smith (UK) Max Fabian (Italy) Nils Erichsen (Germany) Marc Käppelli (Switzerland) Drewry Pearson (Ireland) Cosimo Libardo (Italy)
NORWAY Storm Xaron C Lunde, e: stormy.post@hotmail.com
World Coffee Events (Jointly Owned By SCAE/SCAA)
POLAND Tom Obracaj, e: tobracaj@btinternet.com
Chair - Mike Yung SCAE Director - David Veal SCAA Director - Ric Reinhart Managing Director - Cindy Ludviksen Treasurer - Drewry Pearson
PORTUGAL Claudia Pimentel, e: claudia.pimentel@aicc.pt
ROMANIA Silvia Constantin, e: silvia@kiruna.ro
NATIONAL COORDINATORS EUROPEAN CHAPTERS
RUSSIA Andrey Elson, e: andrey@kld-coffee.ru
AUSTRIA Günter Stölner, e: office@cimbali.at
SLOVAKIA Tomas Callo, e: cafe@dublincafe.sk
BELGIUM Kathleen Serdons, e: kathleenserdons@gmail.com
SPAIN Elisabet Sereno, e: sereno.elisabet@gmail.com
BULGARIA Nikolay Litov, e: n.litov@ibeco.bg
SWEDEN Erik Rosendahl e: erik@dropcoffee.se
CZECH REPUBLIC Stepan Neubauer, e: stepanneubauer@gmail.com
SWITZERLAND Marc Käppeli, e: marc.kaeppeli@blasercafe.ch
DENMARK Lene Hyldahl, e: lenehyldahl@gmail.com
TURKEY Aysin Aydogdu, e: info@mambocino.com
FINLAND Viivi Ahtiainen, e: viivi.ahtiainen@gmail.com
UNITED KINGDOM Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, e: dashwoodm@hotmail.com
FRANCE Patrick Mas, e: mas-patrick33@orange.fr
INTERNATIONAL CHAPTERS
GERMANY Peter Muschiol, e: pm@muschiolconsulting.de GREECE Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos, e: info@coffeeisland.gr HUNGARY János Szongoth, e: scaehungary@gmail.com ICELAND Jan-Fredrik Winter, e: jf_winter@hotmail.com IRELAND Alan Andrews, e: alan@coffeeculture.ie ITALY Dario Ciarlantini e: dario.ciarlantini@gmail.com LITHUANIA Darius Vezelis, e: darius.vezelis@gmail.com NETHERLANDS Peter Eijl, e: peter@doppio-espresso.nl
SINGAPORE Ross Bright, e: ross.bright@spinellicoffee.com.sg SOUTH KOREA Seongil Choi, e: sungilc@gmail.com
REGIONAL COORDINATORS Sonja Grant, e: sonjagrant@gmail.com Tibor Hajcsunk, e: tibor.hajcsunk@mac.com Heinz Trachsel, e: heinz.trachsel@gmx.net SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE_Community SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE_Community SCAE_Community SCAE
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 7
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2014 || CAFÉ CAFÉ| EUROPA EUROPA 8 | WINTER SPRING 2014 2013/2014 NO. 54 8 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
No.61 | Autumn 2015
Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bicknacre, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, UK T: + 44 1245 426060 | E: info@scae.com Contributors: Kelle Vandenberg, David Veal, Isa Verschraegen, Andra Vlaicu, Dr Marco Wellinger, Rashel Winn, Prof. Chahan Yeretzian Design: Mark Nally Printed by: Metro Commercial Printing © Copyright 2015, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe Café Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429 Café Europa (Online) ISSN 1752-8437 Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a company limited by guarantee registered in United Kingdom, Co. Reg. No. 3612500. Copies of the SCAE by-laws are available by written request. VAT Reg. No. GB 894 2009 15. Views expressed in Café Europa do not necessarily represent those of its Editor, the Communications Committee or the Publisher, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe. Articles and contributions by members are invited; please contact Sarah Grennan, Editor E: cafeeuropa@scae.com T: + 353 87 686 1272 For rates and information about advertising in Café Europa please download the SCAE Media Pack at scae.com. For further details and to book your advertisement, please contact Keith Amos, Business Development Executive E: keith@scae.com
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On the Cover SCAE President, Paul Stack, pictured at Coffeeangel SAS, Dublin. Image: Jason Clarke. Special thanks to Karl Purdy for allowing Café Europa to take over his café on a busy afternoon in Dublin.
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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 9
UPDATE
Celebrate the World’s Best Beverage on International Coffee Day The 74 member states of the International Coffee Organisation (ICO), together with 26 coffee associations around the world – including SCAE – are joining forces to celebrate the first ever International Coffee Day this autumn. On Thursday, 1 October, coffee lovers around the world can come together to celebrate the world’s best-loved beverage. The first International Coffee Day, organised by the ICO, will champion the coffee sector’s diversity, quality and passion, and will provide coffee aficionados with an opportunity to support the millions of farmers around the world whose livelihoods depend on this popular bean. SCAE has got behind the event, creating a logo and posters for members to display in their cafés and premises, and the Association is encouraging the community to reach out to consumers on this very special day. ‘The event provides you with a great opportunity to creatively engage with your customers and encourage them to celebrate the day with you,’ explains David Veal, SCAE’s Executive Director.
Ideas include: • ‘Buy one, get one free’ or ‘buy a second cup for a cent’ promotions • Raising coffee seedlings and giving them away for free or for a nominal price on the day • Selling coffee-related jewellery or merchandise • Inviting your local radio station to broadcast from your business. SCAE’s marketing team are gearing up for the occasion, planning a busy social media campaign to celebrate the first ever International Coffee Day. ‘We would love to hear what our members have planned for the day,’ says James Humpoletz, SCAE Marketing Manager. ‘Let us know how you will celebrate and we will do our best to help publicise it.’ The Association is planning a series of events across Europe to mark the occasion. Stay tuned to scae.com for more information and email marketing@scae.com to order your free coffee poster.
To order your free International Coffee Day poster please email marketing@scae.com
EVENT GUIDE 1 OCTOBER #INTERNATIONALCOFFEEDAY
SCAE and CQI Partner on Coffee Education As part of its mission to inspire coffee excellence across the globe, SCAE has reached an agreement to partner with the Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) on a number of key educational initiatives.
SCAE President, Paul Stack, and Executive Director, David Veal, sign the Memorandum of Understanding with the Coffee Quality Institute
10 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
The Association agreed a Memorandum of Understanding in July which will see it work with the CQI in Europe, Africa and Asia. Under the terms of the Memorandum, SCAE and CQI will work together to promote and manage CQI’s Q Grader Training Programme in Europe. This includes, but is not limited to, CQI’s Pre-Q, calibrations and Q courses, including the Q Robusta programmes. SCAE will only use CQI approved Q Instructors to deliver all Q educational programmes and, in a preliminary pilot phase, SCAE will work with a group of core Q Instructors to help them become AST's as quickly as possible. When feasible, CQI and SCAE will cooperate on specific projects at origin, mainly in Africa and Asia, where the Q Instructors can also deliver SCAE modules and certification.
SCAE has agreed to utilise SCAA Certified Teaching Labs for all Q Courses when such labs exist in Europe, while CQI will endeavour to develop programmes and funding sources jointly with SCAE, particularly technical courses at origin. The two organisations will appoint an Educational Development Liaison officer to harmonise and align training activities and course programming. ‘This agreement will provide significant benefits to our members, offering greater access to Q educational programmes in Europe and allowing us to work closely with our CQI partners at origin,’ explains David Veal. ‘Our mission is to inspire coffee excellence through education, research and innovation, and this new Memorandum of Understanding is another great step to help us achieve that.’
UPDATE
Stands Selling Out at World of Coffee Dublin
Over 70% of the exhibition space available at next year’s World of Coffee event in Dublin has sold and the organisers are reporting strong demand for the remaining stands.
Dublin is getting ready to welcome the global coffee community next June. Will you be there? Image: Fáilte Ireland
Bookings for the event in the Irish capital, which will also feature the 2016 World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup, opened at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg where exhibitors quickly snapped up 68% of the available stands. ‘We were delighted with the response from our existing exhibitors in Gothenburg, many of whom have already signed up to join us in Dublin next year,’ says David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE. ‘The fact that so many coffee community suppliers return to the event year after year is a testament to its success. We are also hugely excited to see a number of new exhibitors joining us for the first time at World
of Coffee in Dublin. Plans for next year’s show are already at an advanced stage and we are confident that it is going to be the biggest event in World of Coffee’s history.’ World of Coffee is SCAE’s flagship event, bringing thousands of coffee professionals together for a three-day celebration of coffee each June. The event moves to a different European city each year and this August SCAE announced the host cities for 2017-2019. In 2017, World of Coffee goes to Budapest, in 2018 it will be held in Amsterdam and in 2019 the event moves to Berlin. ‘We are pleased and excited that after such a strong tender process, we can now
announce our host cities for the next three years,’ comments David. ‘The response from the successful cities has been overwhelming, with guarantees that the World of Coffee Europe event will be able to continue growing as one of the world’s best speciality coffee shows. ‘Having seen some excellent potential host cities throughout this process, we are very happy with our final choices. It demonstrates the true character and determination of the speciality coffee community that we are able to take World of Coffee to an Eastern European country for the first time, and we have no doubt that SCAE members over the world will be delighted with the cultural diversity our chosen cities reflect.’ World of Coffee is being hosted in Amsterdam for the first time, and in the Netherlands for only the second time. It will also be Berlin’s first opportunity to host the show. ‘We would like to express our sincere thanks and appreciation for all the cities that entered a bid to host our World of Coffee event, and hope that we can count on their support in future years when we re-open the tender process for hosting the event in 2020 and beyond,’ David Veal added. ‘The next step is to decide which competitions we will take to these three events, and this decision will be made in the next few months.’ To keep up to date with the latest news on World of Coffee and to download the brochure and floorplan, please visit worldofcoffee-dublin.com.
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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN | 11 10.04.15 2015 14:43
UPDATE
Meet, Learn, Develop and Grow as a BGE Member ISA VERSCHRAEGEN explains why Barista Guild of Europe (BGE) needs your vote this autumn. From the outset BGE has been an organisation formed of baristas within a community, hoping to extend the reach and opportunities to a wider group. From our very first conversations about what the group could be, ideas of democracy, inclusivity, and representation have been raised. At our first event (Barista Camp 2014 in Athens), the Working Group presented a vision to see us through the course of the next year, of which a key point was to create a structure for the leadership of BGE that allowed members to choose its future direction. This raised a number of challenges, starting with ‘Who are our members?' As we thought deeper and longer about where we needed to go, we saw questions about ownership, leadership, finance, elections, and structure, all of which became paramount to answer. We are pleased to say that with a great deal of help, we think we have. Our ‘bylaws’ are now publicly available on our website. We’ve crafted these intentionally to give clarity and structure for our future, but freedom for our membership to decide where and what that future is. The creation and release of these bylaws bring us to a couple of key points that we'd like to discuss with you: Elections and Membership! Working Group Elections As of this moment, the working group of BGE is made up of a small group of volunteers who got in touch because they wanted to be involved in seeing this initiative grow. We want the next working group to be made up of people who want to drive it to its next stage, chosen by the members it hopes to serve. From 23 September to 9 October we’ll be holding elections that allow members to choose who sits in the working group of BGE over 2016. Until 15 September, interested candidates can send in their nomination presenting themselves and the direction in which they would like BGE to move. Membership BGE and its activities are designed to build community regardless of location
12 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Put your hand up for BGE. Vote in the elections from 23 September to 9 October. Image: Jordan Sanchez
or membership of any organisation, but in order to make a voting system work, we need to have a system of determining what makes a member and what allows them to vote. BGE was created by SCAE to serve the needs of a core area of its membership: the barista community. SCAE realised that a vehicle that allowed baristas themselves to determine the scope and activities of this organisation would assist the growth of a stronger coffee community. While our event financing comes from sponsorship and ticket revenue, our operational costs are funded from SCAE's membership budget. As such, all SCAE members belong and are entitled to exercise a right to vote in BGE elections. However, there is a challenge in managing this membership, as individuals working for SCAE member companies don’t necessarily get communicated with directly or have access to SCAE login information. Therefore, we have set the following criteria to determine BGE membership: • If you, personally, are a SCAE member (Barista/Professional Individual categories), your BGE membership is included in your SCAE membership. • If you currently work for a SCAE company member, you can personally register to become a voting member of BGE, at an annual administration cost of €10. • If you are not yet a member of SCAE and would like to join BGE, registering for SCAE barista membership for €75 is equivalent to BGE membership. We're excited that we can give our members a true voice in our organisation! Find out more information on baristaguildofeurope.com.
Indonesia was the official country producer sponsor at the Nordic World of Coffee. SCAE is continuing its partnership with the Indonesian Embassy and the Speciality Coffee Association of Indonesia by embarking on a field trip to Banda Aceh this November
Visit Sumatra with SCAE Following successful field trips to Honduras and Brazil, SCAE is heading to Indonesia’s Banda Aceh region for its third tour of 2015. Running from 15 to 23 November, the trip will include visits to farms and coffee processing plants, plus plenty of coffee cuppings. The trip, organised with the help of the Indonesian Embassy and the Speciality Coffee Association of Indonesia, is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit the beautiful coffee plantations of Sumatra. Just 20 places are available on the trip, which costs €650 (excluding flights). To find out more and to register your interest contact SCAE’s Field Trip Coordinator, Colin Smith, at colin.smith@smithcoffee. co.uk or Jayne Richards, Membership Manager, at jayne@scae.com.
UPDATE
New Partnership with daMatteo Named Grounds for Health ‘Café of the Year’ SCAE has signed a Memorandum of Understanding with Grounds for Health, the non-governmental organisation which is dedicated to the prevention of cervical cancer in developing countries. ‘We're thrilled to be a partner of choice for SCAE,’ said Guy Stallworthy, CEO and President of Grounds for Health, at the signing of the agreement at the Nordic World of Coffee in June. ‘Foundational social issues, such as women’s healthcare, contribute to the resiliency of coffee-growing communities and, therefore, the future of the supply chain. We’re looking forward to working with the SCAE leadership and its members on projects that reinforce the important role of women at origin.’ The three-year collaboration, which commenced in July, will focus on programmes to increase visibility and financial support for Grounds for Health’s work, mutually reinforce each organisation’s mission and expand Grounds for Health’s reach and impact delivering cervical cancer screening and treatment services to women in the coffeelands. The two organisations will work together to identify projects that reflect their shared interest in supply chain sustainability and commitment to improving farmers’ quality of life.
daMatteo’s café in Magasinsgatan, Gothenburg has been named Sweden's Café of the Year by White Guide Cafés. The café , owned by Matts Johansson, topped a poll of Sweden’s 316 best cafés which are selected for providing experiences ‘beyond the ordinary’, says the Guide. daMatteo impressed judges by creating ‘a meeting place for everyone with heart, expertise and a high level of service, where both home roasted coffee and pastries from their own bakery are of an extremely high quality’.
daMatteo’s Magasinsgatan
ECONOMY ECOLOGY ECOBOILER Guy Stallworthy, CEO and President of Grounds for Health, signs the Memorandum of Understanding with David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg
In the next 15 years, it is estimated that six million women will die from cervical cancer, despite the fact that it can be easily prevented. Nearly 90% of these deaths will occur in lowand middle-income countries. ‘We know there are more than 750 million women in the developing world who would benefit from our life-saving services. Our work with the European coffee community creates a tremendous opportunity to help us reach more of those women,’ said Guy. Since the organisation was founded in 1996, Grounds for Health has screened more than 53,000 and treated more than 3,200 women living in coffee growing communities in Latin America and Africa. Currently, Grounds for Health supports programmes in Ethiopia, Nicaragua and Peru.
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In its quest to support women in coffee, SCAE also signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the International Women’s Coffee Alliance at World of Coffee. See page 40 for more information the partnership and the work of the IWCA. CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 13
UPDATE
New CoffeeMind Academy to Train ASTs
Morten Münchow has launched a new CoffeeMind Academy in Copenhagen
Morten Münchow, the trainer, consultant, researcher and Vice Chair of the SCAE Research Committee, has expanded his CoffeeMind consultancy business this autumn with the launch of his new CoffeeMind Academy. Morten, who was one of the creators behind SCAE’s hugely popular Coffee Diploma System, has noticed an increased demand for Authorised SCAE Trainers (ASTs) in Europe and has developed the Academy to help train and certify new ASTs. ‘The Coffee Diploma System has been so successful and there has been such a huge appetite for courses that there is currently a bottleneck for ASTs, especially in the Roasting, Green Coffee and Sensory Skills modules,’ he tells Café Europa. ‘We are focusing on training new trainers at the CoffeeMind Academy and hope to inspire a new generation of coffee educators.’ Located in Copenhagen, the new CoffeeMind Academy provides a training service alongside Morten’s well-established consultancy business. As well as Sensory, Roasting and Green Coffee training and certification from SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System, CoffeeMind Academy provides Sensory Performance training, where sensory scientist Ida Steen can evaluate cuppers’ performances and tailor specific training programmes to undertake ahead of SCAE or Q grader exams. Other services on offer at CoffeeMind include an online onehour consultancy, providing assistance for startups on a number of topics, including business plans, budgets, workspace, workflow, quality control, green coffee selection, roast profiling and more, plus a Lean Startup programme, where roaster startups can work with CoffeeMind at Kontra’s roaster in Copenhagen to produce and test new product ranges. Morten will also continue to hold Foundation and Intermediate Roasting courses at London School of Coffee, where he has been training since 2007. For more information on CoffeeMind Academy, visit coffee-mind.com.
Gain Insight into World Competition Judging Do you have ambitions to become a coffee championship judge? Would you like to know what judges look for when adjudicating at competitions? World Coffee Events is staging a series of education modules in Europe and Asia to provide competition training for aspiring judges, national judges, competitors, or anyone interested in understanding how a competition is judged. The World Competition Education Programme (WCEP) modules provide insight into rules and regulations, score sheets, judges’ stage behaviour and detail the competencies that are tested in WCE’s Judging Certification. Upcoming WCEPs modules include: 9-13 October, St Petersburg, Russia 17-21 October, Milan, Italy 17-20 November, Jakarta, Indonesia 25-29 November, Copenhagen, Denmark 7-11 December, Athens, Greece To find out more email Annemarie Tiemes, annemarie@scae.com.
Share Your News
Have you a story to tell? Share your news with SCAE. Email cafeeuropa@scae.com Judges score Caleb Cha at the World Latte Art Championship in Gothenburg
14 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 15
DIARY
Autumn Event Guide SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER
11-13 September
1 October
14-16 October
Dublin Coffee & Tea Festival Dublin, Ireland dublincoffeefestival.com
International Coffee Day Global ico.org
Hosfair Shenzhen Shenzen, China szhosfair.com
20-27 September
30 September01 October
15-18 October
SCAE Field Trip Brazil scae.com
ICO Global Coffee Forum Milan, Italy ico.org
Biannual IWCA International Convention Bogotá, Colombia womenincoffee.org
23-26 September
30 September02 October
15-18 October
Barista Camp Riccione, Italy baristaguildofeurope.com/bc15/
SCAJ Conference & Expo Tokyo, Japan scajconference.jp
Expospeciales Café de Colombia Bogotá, Colombia expoespeciales.com
24 September Allegra World Coffee Portal CEO Forum New York, USA worldcoffeeportal.com
01-03 October
22-25 October
World Tea & Coffee Expo Mumbai, India worldteacoffeeexpo.com
Istanbul Coffee Festival Istanbul, Turkey istanbulcoffeefestival.com
24-26 September
05-08 October
25-27 October
Coffeena Cologne, Germany euvend-coffeena.com
PIR Expo Moscow, Russia pirexpo.com
Host Milano Milan, Italy host.fieramilano.it
06-09 October
27-29 October
4th International Coffee & Cocoa Festival & Exhibition Tehran, Iran coffeexiran.com
Speciality Fine Food Fair & UAE National Ibrik Championships Dubai, UAE speciality.ae
25-27 September New York Coffee Festival New York, USA newyorkcoffeefestival.com
16 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
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PRODUCT NEWS
Java Republic Flies High Irish roaster, Java Republic, celebrated two big wins with customers and critics recently. The company landed a contract to supply speciality coffee and tea on board Aer Lingus’ short haul routes in June. Passengers can now enjoy freshly ground coffee from Java Republic which is sealed at the bottom of individual cups for freshness. ‘I’m proud that this partnership is allowing us to put our fresh, hand-roasted, coffee within reach of more people and thus giving them the opportunity to taste the quality coffee experience that we have carefully hand-crafted in our very own roastery in Dublin,’ said Grace O’Shaughnessy, Managing Director, Java Republic. While the coffee took to the sky during the summer, the Java Republic team also celebrated winning 10 stars at the UK’s Great Taste Awards. Accolades include three stars for its single origin, light roast Rwandan Nyungwe Coffee, plus two stars for the Organic Wild Berry Infusion Tea, and one star awards for the company’s Pedra Redonda Coffee, Ponto Alegre Coffee, Organic Jasmine Green Tea, Organic Peppermint Tea and Organic Irish Breakfast Tea. Grace commented: ‘To win the only three stars in Ireland this year was wonderful news, but we are over the moon to win seven awards and a total of 10 stars and it’s a testament to the quality and variety of our product range of which we are immensely proud. The win this year brings our total company awards to over 130 and we’re not finished yet!’
Mike Rutter, Chief Commercial Officer, Aer Lingus and Grace O’Shaughnessy, Managing Director, Java Republic, are pictured with Aoife, a member of the Aer Lingus cabin crew, at the announcement that Java Republic will supply coffee on-board the Irish air carrier
Share Your News
Email your brand stories to cafeeuropa@scae.com
See more from Java Republic at javarepublic.com
Move Over Splurty, Say Hello to SP9 The SP9 was a big hit on the Marco Beverage Systems stand at the Nordic World of Coffee, but what’s with the name? Initially introduced as FAZE9, the single serve brewer which launched in February now goes by the streamlined title, SP9, in homage to its predecessor, the popular Splurty prototype. Marco’s Commercial Director, James Healy, explains: ‘As you know Marco introduced a new single cup brewer at CATEX Dublin and Internorga, Hamburg. The coffee community that had been familiar with project “Splurty” have since been pleading with us to retain the name. As Commercial Director for Marco it is my privilege to travel the world and to interact with a wide crosssection of interesting people within the coffee industry.
18 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
‘Since the launch of FAZE9 we have seen a huge amount of excitement and goodwill from many people in anticipation of what we were doing. However it has come as a surprise how many people were attached to the prototype name “Splurty”, which was the forerunner of FAZE9. As such I feel that a nod to the hard work and dedication that went into moulding “Splurty” into such an amazing product is in order. We have listened to suggestions and agreed on a compromise whereby FAZE9 will be called SP9 from now on.’ So there you have it. You can find out more at marcobeveragesystems.com.
CE53 Direct Trade v_02FIN 13-05-13_Cafe Europa 15/05/2013 07:29 Page 23
PRODUCT NEWS
New Cropster Platform for COE Alliance for Coffee Excellence (ACE) has announced that it will use Cropster Hub as the auction platform for Cup of Excellence, beginning with the 2016 competitions. As well as supporting the auction of award-winning Cup of Excellence coffees, the platform will also provide a new sales channel for coffees that reach the final week of the competitions but do not make it to auction. The new platform, scheduled to launch later this year, will support a cupping form app for jurors at all COE competitions, and will also provide data for farmers and buyers, including moisture and water activity measurements, warehouse storage information, jury scoring data and COE suggested roasting profiles.
‘Making the valuable physical and sensory data collected during the competition available to farmers is a huge priority for ACE, and we are committed to developing a feedback system that will allow producers to receive tremendous added benefit from participation in the programme,’ said Geoff Watts of Intelligentsia, Chair of the ACE Board of Directors. ‘We are equally excited about our improved ability to deliver more detailed farm information and coffee quality data to COE members and auction participants.’ Read more about Cropster Hub at cropster.com/hub.
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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 19
RESEARCH
WHY DOES WATER QUALITY WHY QUALITY MATTERS MATTER?
WATER: S
peciality coffee depends on a combination of factors that influences overall flavour profile. Variables such as But there is onemethod, factor that is degree, becoming an size, increasingly processing roast grind temperature, important consideration fortime the industry a whole and pressure, and extraction all play a as vital role in –the that isresult water. Or to beBut more exact, water quality. sensory in the cup. there is one factor that isGiven becoming an that increasingly important consideration the industry as a the main constituent of brewedfor coffee is somewhere whole – and that is water. Or to be more exact, water quality. between 98 to 99% water, the rest being the mass of soluble Given that main constituent brewed somewhere brewedthe solids extracted, theofquality ofcoffee H2O inisthe brew between 98 to 99% water, the rest being the mass of soluble can truly mean the difference between a ‘good’ and brewed solids extracted, the quality of H2O in the brew can truly ‘great’ coffee. between a ‘good’ and ‘great’ coffee. mean the difference While there is overwhelming anecdotal evidence that supports is little overwhelming anecdotal evidence thatarea so thisWhile view, there there is published scientific research in the thiswe view, there is little published research far.supports So, how do begin to quantify the impactscientific of water quality from a sensory perspective? in the area so far. So, how do we begin to quantify the In a bid to this question, Speciality Coffee Association impact of address water quality from athe sensory perspective? of Europe (SCAE) brought together a team of experts at the Centre for Analytical & Physical Chemistry in Zurich, Switzerland, to provide In a bid to address this question, the Speciality Coffee some scientific clarity on how differing water compositions had an Association of Europe (SCAE)quality brought together a team of impact on the coffee’s perceived on the cupping table. The experts atwere the designed, Centre forconducted Analyticaland andthe Physical Chemistry experiments results analysed by in Zurich,Wellinger Switzerland, provide someof scientific clarity on how Dr Marco from to Zurich University Applied Sciences.
differing water compositions had an impact on the coffee’s
Which Coffee? perceived quality on the cupping table. The experiments Two freshly roastedconducted coffees were for the researchby Dr. were designed, andchosen the results analysed experiment: Marco Wellinger from Zurich University of Applied Sciences. 1) Colombian washed-process caturra and castillo from La Argelia farm, grown at an altitude of 1580-1900 m. 2) Brazilian natural-process yellow bourbon, tupi, icatu, and yellow catuai from Lagoa Formosa grown in the Minas Gerais region at an altitude of 1000-1200 m. Which Water? Three types of water were chosen for the analysis. Based on the SCAE/SCAA target standard water recommendation range, a low (soft), medium and high (hard) mineral content water type were used. 20 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
WHICH COFFEE? Two freshly roasted coffees were chosen for the research experiment: 1) Colombian washed-process caturra and castillo from La Argelia farm, grown at an altitude 1580-1900 m. 2) Brazilian natural-process yellow bourbon, tupi, icatu, and yellow catuai from Lagoa Formosa grown in the Minas Gerais region at an altitude of 1000-1200 m.
WHICH WATER? Three types of water were chosen for the analysis. Based on the SCAE/SCAA target standard water recommendation range, a low (soft), medium and high (hard) mineral content water type were used. 160 Zurich tap water
140 120 100 Calcium hardness / mg CaCO3 eq * L-1
As part of a number of research projects commissioned by SCAE, researchers at the Centre for Analytical & Physical Chemistry in Zurich University investigated INTRODUCTION how the quality of water can impact coffee’s flavour profile. SPECIALITY COFFEE DEPENDS The research was led by ON A COMBINATION OF FACTORS THAT DR MARCO WELLINGER and PROFILE. INFLUENCES OVERALL FLAVOUR PROF. CHAHAN YERETZIAN VARIABLES SUCH AS PROCESSING METHOD, DEGREE, GRIND SIZE, TEMPERATURE, ofROAST the Zurich University PRESSURE, AND EXTRACTION TIME ALL of Applied Sciences A VITAL ROLE IN THE SENSORY RESULT inPLAY Wädenswil, Switzerland. IN THE CUP.
High 80
Medium
60 Low Filter at zero bypass
40 20 0 20
40
60
80
100
120
140
Alkalinity / mg CaCO3 eq * L-1 All three waters used were within the SCAE/SCAA recommended range.
160
RESEARCH What is the Water Standard? The coffee industry uses guidelines on the ideal extraction for coffee. SCAE/SCAA’s water standard outlines the acceptable range of mineral content, alkalinity, total dissolved solids (TDS), pH value, calcium/sodium content and odour/colour qualities that are recommended for brewing speciality coffee. The different water compositions were obtained using an ion exchange filter which reduces the total hardness and alkalinity in equal amounts. Since alkalinity is considered to be critical to the perception of acidity in coffee, it was decided to limit the variation of it to +/- 50% of the recommended SCAE/SCAA target. Who Was Involved? An expert panel of four coffee professionals evaluated two coffees and three different water types. The coffees were prepared in a blind cupping session according to an amended SCAA cupping protocol. Fragrance, uniformity and clean cup scores were not evaluated but sweetness was added and evaluated on a scale of 1-10. The cuppers each evaluated the coffee extracted with the three different waters, and repeated three times. Significance differences were based on 95% confidence intervals. In order to ensure that the cup profile was interpreted consistently, only cuppers with a relative standard deviation of less than 5% for three blind repetitions of the same sample would be included in the analysis. This led to the elimination of one cupper. The coffee was evaluated against the following attributes: • Aroma: Orthonasal odour of the coffee during the break and, to a minor extent, after removing the foam • Flavour: Combined perception of taste and retronasal odour of a coffee, making up its principal character • Aftertaste: Duration, intensity and quality of the flavour from the back of the palate after swallowing • Acidity: Combination of quality and intensity of the sensory perception of acids – one of the quickest sensory impressions during tasting • Body: Sensory perception of mouthfeel determined by viscosity and texture of the brew (e.g. fats/oils and very fine particles) • Balance: Degree of harmony between flavour, aftertaste, acidity and body – especially at high attribute intensities, small differences result in strong imbalance • Sweetness: Sensory perception of a sweet taste or the degree roundness and compositions fullness Theofdifferent water were obtained using an • verall: Integrated score reflecting the sensory ionOexchange filter which reduces thehow totalpleasant hardness and impression was, and in respect of origin, varietal alkalinity in equal amounts. Since alkalinity is considered and processing method. »
WHAT IS THE WATER STANDARD? The water with the lowest values
Thefor coffee industry uses guidelinesconsistently on the ideal extraction hardness, alkalinity, gave for coffee. SCAE/SCAA’s water standard outlines the acceptable theofhighest scoresalkalinity, – suggesting thatsolids this range mineral content, total dissolved (TDS), pH value, content odour/colour typecalcium/sodium of water leads to aand better qualities that are recommended for brewing speciality coffee.
cup quality overall.
Characteristic
Target
to be critical to the perception of acidity in coffee, it was decided to limit the variation of it to +/- 50% of the recommended SCAE/SCAA target. Acceptable range
Odour1
Clean/Fresh, odour free
Colour2
Clear colour
Total chlorine
0 mg/L
TDS3
150 mg/L
75 - 250 mg/L
Calcium hardness
4 grains or 68 mg/L
1 - 5 grains or 17 mg/L - 85 mg/L
Total alkalinity
40 mg/L
At or near 40 mg/L
pH
7.0
6.5 to 7.5
Sodium
10 mg/L
At or near 10 mg/L
1. Odour is based on sensory olfactory determination 2. Colour is based on sensory visual determination 3. TDS measure based on a 4-4-2 conversion: 1 µS *cm-1 EC = 0.7 mg*L-1 TDS CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 21
RESEARCH How did the Coffees and Different Water Types Compare? In all cases where a significant difference in scores was observed, the highest was attributed to the coffee samples brewed using low mineral content water, with the lowest hardness. Beside significant differences, there was also a trend for low mineral content water scoring highest for the majority of sensory attributes. Across the spectrum, the Colombian scored higher than the Brazilian coffee.
Prof. Chahan Yeretzian, Chairman of the SCAE Research Committee and Head of the Centre for Analytical & Physical Chemistry, says that the research underlines how important water type is for the coffee industry and its role in ensuring that speciality coffee can achieve its full potential when complemented by a range of other factors. The research findings add further weight to the discussion in the speciality coffee community about why water quality matters. ‘The results indicate how differences in water type alone can move a coffee’s cupping scores into, or out of, the “speciality” bracket. From a scientific perspective, these findings strengthen our understanding of the important role that water quality can Low play in influencing a particular coffee’s flavour profile,’ concludes Medium Prof. Chahan Yeretzian.
HOW DID THE COFFEES AND DIFFERENT WATER TYPES COMPARE? HOW DID THE COFFEES AND DIFFERENT WATER
TYPES COMPARE? HOW DID THE COFFEES AND DIFFERENT WATER TYPES COMPARE?
Conclusion In all cases where a significant difference in scores was The results show the impact water quality on samples a coffee’s observed, the highest was that attributed to the has coffee flavour profile. all mineral the attributes evaluated; flavour, brewed usingOf low content water, with the acidity, lowest balance andBeside overall scoring were the most significantly affected. In all cases wheresignificant a significant difference in scores hardness. differences, there was was also The waterthe with the lowest values for hardness, alkalinity, observed, highest was attributed to the coffee samples a trend for low mineral content water scoring highest for consistently gave themineral highestcontent scores –water, suggesting the thatlowest this type brewed using majority oflow attributes. Across with the High ofthe water leads to asensory better cup quality overall. Thespectrum, Colombian hardness. Beside significant differences, there was also Low the Colombian scored higher than the Brazilian coffee. coffeeInthat scored higher across all attributes also all cases where a significant difference in shows scores that was the CLICK FOR MORE: The full research report is available for download on a trend for low mineral content water scoring highest for Medium higherobserved, the score,the thehighest more significant the difference theresamples is. This scae.com. was attributed to the coffee the majority of sensory attributes. Across the spectrum, High highlights howusing the type of water content used in speciality coffee is even brewed low mineral water, with the lowest SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT the Colombian scored higher than the Brazilian coffee. morehardness. important Beside in sensory evaluations. significant differences, there was also Low
◆
9.00 a trend for low mineral content water scoring highest for
Medium High
the majority of sensory attributes.SIGNIFICANT Across the spectrum, SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT 8.50 the Colombian scored higher than the Brazilian coffee. 9.00
8.00 8.50
SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT
7.50 8.00 9.00 7.00 7.50 8.50 6.50 7.00 8.00 6.00 6.50 7.50 5.50 6.00 7.00 5.00 5.50 6.50
Aroma
Flavour
Aftertaste
Acidity
Brazilian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. 5.00 6.00 The three attributes of flavour, aftertaste and acidity show a significant difference. Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity 5.50 Brazilian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. The three attributes of flavour, aftertaste and acidity show a significant difference. 5.00 Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity
9.00
Body
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
Body
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
Body
SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT Brazilian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. The three attributes of flavour, aftertaste and acidity show a significant difference. SIGNIFICANT
8.50 9.00 8.00 8.50
SIGNIFICANT
SIGNIFICANT
SIGNIFICANT
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
SIGNIFICANT
SIGNIFICANT
SIGNIFICANT
SIGNIFICANT
SIGNIFICANT
SIGNIFICANT
7.50 8.00 9.00 7.00 7.50 8.50 6.50 7.00 8.00 6.00 6.50 7.50 5.50 6.00 7.00 5.00 5.50 6.50
Aroma
Flavour
Aftertaste
Acidity
Body
6.00 coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. Colombian 5.00 The four attributes balance andAftertaste overall show a significant Aromaof flavour, acidity, Flavour Aciditydifference. Body 5.50 Colombian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. 22 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA The four 5.00attributes of flavour, acidity, balance and overall show a significant difference. Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity Body
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
SIGNPOST
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 23
BGE
Get Ready for
Barista Camp
Would you like to learn, share ideas, make new friends and catch up with old ones, all while relaxing in the sunny idyll of the Italian Riviera? Then make sure you don’t miss the second annual Barista Camp, organised by Barista Guild of Europe, which takes place in Riccione, Italy, this 23-26 September.
L
aunched at World of Coffee Rimini 2014, the first European Barista Camp was one of the biggest hits of the coffee calendar last year when it attracted baristas from across the coffee community to the sunny climes of Greece. This year, Barista Guild of Europe (BGE) is returning to the Adriatic coast, bringing the second annual Barista Camp to Riccione, 15km south of Rimini, where baristas can enjoy professional education, cutting-edge lectures, tastings and lots of fun, over four busy days. Taking place at Hotel Corallo, this year’s Camp includes an expanded educational programme with no less than five educational tracks. Based on industry standards provided by SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System, participants can choose from: • Raphael — Barista Foundation and Sensory Foundation • Michelangelo — Green Foundation and Sensory Foundation • Leonardo — Barista Intermediate • Donatello — Brewing Intermediate • Splinter — Sensory Intermediate The tracks cater for baristas with diverse skill levels and interests and include optional certification. Choosing the Right Track We realise there might be strong emotional bonds to any of these track names, but please consider carefully which track is right for you. We urge you to read through the curricula (visit baristaguildofeurope. com for details) for the modules you're interested in, so you can make an informed decision. You – and everyone else in your group – will benefit the most from the course if you possess the skills and knowledge required for that level. Barista Foundation is designed for people new to the coffee industry and focuses on the key skills required to set your grinder, make espresso and foam and texture milk for cappuccinos. No previous barista experience is required for this course. Barista Intermediate is designed to test key core and more advanced skills and understanding, expected from a competent 24 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Enjoy professional education, cutting-edge lectures, tastings and lots of fun, over four busy days.
Attendees at Barista Camp 2014, photographed by Hung Nguyen Canh and Jordan Sanchez
BGE barista (for example, from someone working as a barista for six months or more). Successful candidates should be able to dial in a brew recipe, make a full range of drinks with quality and speed, as well as understand the basic requirements for customer service and maintenance. Barista Foundation is a recommended (but not mandatory) pre-requisite module. Brewing Intermediate is a hands-on workshop where you will learn to analyse your grind profile, match your grind to your brewing method and to scientifically measure coffee strength and chart a coffee’s extraction. Sensory Foundation covers the essentials of sensory evaluation in a practical and interactive manner. It investigates the way we perceive, what we taste and how to apply this knowledge when evaluating coffee’s natural characteristics. It also offers an introduction to identifying speciality coffee qualities, as well as a basic overview of how to implement this in business. Sensory Intermediate is ideal for someone with cupping experience who wants to develop their knowledge of sensory skills. It is broken down into three areas: 'how we taste, perceive and interpret', 'running a cupping session and tasting the diversity of coffee' and 'how to set up sensory skills in your business'. Sensory Foundation is a recommended (but not mandatory) pre-requisite module.
Green Coffee Foundation covers the key concepts surrounding green coffee, from growing the plant, through processing, shipping, storage and arrival at a roaster. It includes an introduction to cupping and coffee grading. Book Now Following on from the success of the inaugural Camp last year, tickets for this year’s event are in hot demand. Tickets are priced at €575 (€525 for SCAE members) and include your preferred track of CDS modules, including certification, as well as all other social and educational activities at camp, three nights of accommodation at the four star Hotel Corallo, and all of your meals. You can book online at baristaguildofeurope.com/bc/registration.
8537 Pentair Cafe Europa (128x185) AW_128x185mm 06/02/2015 16:43 Page 1
23-26 September Barista Camp Riccione, Italy baristaguildofeurope.com
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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 25
PAUL STACK, the new President of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe, has identified three key priorities for his presidency: alignment, strategy and succession. He talks to SARAH GRENNAN about leading SCAE into the future following the phenomenal growth of recent years. 26 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Y
ou will have heard the mutterings, we’re sure. The whispers, the Twitter speculation, the juicy gossip… ‘Collaboration’ is the word du jour, and its big brother, ‘alignment’ is rumoured to be causing tremors on both sides of the Atlantic. If you have been buried under a brew bar for the last year and you haven’t caught the chatter, let us explain: the powers that be in the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) and the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) are investigating the possibility of forming one global organisation dedicated to promoting and supporting speciality coffee around the world. While it is not a covert operation, there has been no official comment on the process, fuelling the gossip at ground level in the coffee community. Paul Stack’s TED-esque style talk at the inaugural Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium in Gothenburg during World of
COVER STORY
Paul Stack, President of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe and Operations Director of Marco Beverage Systems, pictured at Coffeeangel SAS, Dublin. Image: Jason Clarke
Coffee week was the Associations’ first step in taking ownership of the conversation. His sit-down with Café Europa in August is the second step. The message is clear: There is no conflict, no tremors, no fear. But there may be if the burning issue of alignment is not tackled. ‘The Re:co presentation was about trying to take control of the message of alignment,’ reflects Paul, the Marco Beverage Systems’ Operations Director who took up the mantle as SCAE President at the Nordic World of Coffee event in June. ‘There has been a lot of talk in the industry about SCAE and SCAA collaborating. There has been a lot of chatter on social media. Are we friends? Are we enemies? But the fact is that the industry today, and the current connectivity we all enjoy today, means that geographic borders are nonsense. The idea of not having the European and American associations aligned is nonsense. If we were to start an organisation now, it would be global.’
Paul’s talk at the first Re:co think tank, now available to view on the RecoSymposium YouTube channel, gives a succinct insight into why the European and US organisations are dating, with a view to future marriage. When the SCAA was founded in 1982 and its European peer was established in 1998 the world was a very different place. The web was still in its infancy, the connectivity we all know and enjoy today was a pipedream. Looking back over the period since the associations were formed ‘the connectivity in our lives has obviously transformed, and it has been transformational for our businesses,’ mused Paul in his presentation to industry leaders and stakeholders. ‘That connectivity has enabled farmer to barista and it’s going to further enable farmer to consumer. This is the landscape we live in and that enables us all.’ While they may have operated in different jurisdictions, both associations share a belief in ‘something that tastes better and » CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 27
COVER STORY
Pictured at the Marco Beverage Systems stand at the Nordic World of Coffee, image: Chris Dobbs
something better for the global coffee community. This child of two parents – SCAE and SCAA – has been driving, very successfully, global community events such as the world coffee championships, and now Re:co. WCE has been a great test bed for alignment.’ With roughly 3,500 members in each association, a marriage of the two organisations makes sense for the coffee community in Europe and the US, and the industry at large across the globe, he maintains. ‘What empowers alignment is that there is no reason not to do it. If we don’t collaborate, the nemesis of competition is that we will start to eat ourselves.’ Indeed there are early signs that this is already starting to happen. The rapid growth of speciality coffee in new and emerging markets, especially Asia, has seen SCAE and SCAA compete for new members. ‘There is a huge pull on our membership as we are asked to enter new markets. We are embarrassingly clashing.’ So the vision is alignment, but how will this manifest itself? ‘That is the big question,’ notes the SCAE President. ‘We have been talking at board level for some time. There is already a lot of cross-pollination in our associations. The Barista Guild of America is linked with Barista Guild of Europe, members of the SCAE board have sat on the SCAA strategic review for the last couple of years. Going back a few years the connectivity between the staff and the boards of both associations was practically non-existent, but now we meet twice a year to discuss the major issues impacting the industry. For instance we met on the Ethiopia Exchange two years ago and we were able to lobby together for a change through the ICO (International Coffee Organization).’ In dating parlance, therefore, the associations are dancing. When do they expect to post an engagement announcement? ‘We’re certainly not in a rush and nothing is agreed as yet. I would love to have a plan established by the time I sign off my presidency in June 2016. The boards of the SCAA and SCAE are knowledgeable industry executives and operators but we are a group of volunteers. Do we know how a global association should be set up? No, we don’t. We need to bring in some expertise to establish what such an organisation would look like and we have to benchmark the correct way of doing things before we make any decisions. We don’t want to end up
‘The connectivity we all enjoy today means
that geographic borders are nonsense.
The idea of not having the European and American associations aligned is nonsense. If we were to start an organisation now, it would be global.’
can be explored’, explained Paul. The Europeans and Americans have common goals and similar activities. ‘You have education programmes, exhibitions, competitions on either side of the Atlantic and more recently, both associations working on research and sustainability progammes,’ he noted. The first step in partnership was the birth of SCAE and SCAA’s baby, World Coffee Events (WCE), which has done Trojan work in turning the World Barista Championship into a speciality coffee showcase viewed by thousands live at the event and online across the globe each year. Back in Marco’s head office in Dublin, Ireland in August, Paul explains that, although both boards didn’t realise it at the time, the formation of WCE was a crucial first step on the road to alignment. ‘Unknown to the current board, when the World Barista Championship was professionalised in 2010 by the creation of World Coffee Events, it was a test bed to do 28 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
like FIFA.’ While the boards recruit external experts to help plot the transition, they have also met internally with members of the executives to discuss the possible integration and allay any concerns among staff. Paul’s meeting with the SCAE executive team was brimming with positivity, he reveals. ‘Both associations are growing faster than they can cope so if alignment is there, there is no reason to believe that there might be cuts. By working together to enter new markets our growth is going to be even more explosive and the critical issue is how to manage that.’ What about the fears among the membership? ‘Because we haven’t had any substantial engagement with members on alignment yet, any fears are anecdotal,’ notes Paul. ‘The SCAA is a single country association whereas SCAE is multinational, so maybe there are a few more fears on the US side. As SCAE is a multicultural, multinational, multi-currency association,
COVER STORY
Paul’s presentation at the inaugural Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium in Gothenburg was SCAE and SCAA’s first public comment on alignment. You can view the talk on the RecoSymposium YouTube channel. Image: Eileen Kenny
we’re more used to collaborating in Europe.’ He is conscious of the need to engage with members on the issue, however. ‘The recent story regarding the US regional barista competitions shows that if you take away a regional identity, the membership won’t be happy. The fear of losing a national identity may be even greater and those fears need to be acknowledged. We need to establish and communicate the best possibilities for both associations to enable a future road map. We owe it to the community to clarify what might happen.’
The challenge for SCAE as it moves into new frontiers, is how to cope with the demand for membership and services, including the hugely popular Coffee Diploma System which has already awarded an impressive 15,000 certificates this year. To do this effectively, the Association needs investment, Paul acknowledges. ‘The association has grown on average more than 40% annually in the last four years. That highlights how relevant SCAE is and the value it delivers. How will we meet that demand in the future? We will need more senior managers, we will need to invest in an automated membership system hile charting a course for future alignment and we will need to professionally develop our key staff will surely provide plenty to keep him and grow our own people.’ occupied through his presidency, For Paul, one of the key architects of the Paul Stack is eager to point out Coffee Diploma System, the growth in the Re:co Rewind that it is just one task on his to-do list in the Association and in particular, its educational run-up to World of Coffee Dublin 2016. offering, is hugely rewarding. ‘I didn’t do it Watch Paul Stack’s ‘For me, three is the magic number,’ he on my own, there were a lot of volunteers presentation at Re:co says, pointing to the three pillars he has who invested a huge amount of time and identified for his one-year term of office. expertise in developing the Coffee Diploma Gothenburg on the ‘The first is alignment and collaboration, the System, but I am very proud of how RecoSymposium YouTube second is developing a new SCAE strategy successful it has been. The fact that we give and ensuring that we know what that is for the €1 for every certificate issued back to origin, channel. next few years. That strategy for SCAE in no in the past through Coffee Kids and now way conflicts with what happens with alignment. via Grounds for Health and the International The third pillar is about succession. Our board is Women’s Coffee Alliance, is wonderful. It further elected every two years and we need to encourage enables us to support the community.’ the right people in the community to put themselves Another source of pride must be the arrival of World of forward. We also need to ensure we have good succession Coffee, SCAE’s flagship event, in Paul’s hometown of Dublin next at committee level. The board sets the strategy but it is the June. Is he feeling the pressure? ‘To be the President bringing World committees that drive the activity and ensure that the executive are of Coffee to Dublin is a wonderful thing, but it is also professionally able to roll this out. SCAE was run by volunteers for so long that we and personally terrifying,’ he chuckles. ‘I do believe it’s going to be needed doers on the committees. Now that we have an effective the biggest and best event in the show’s history though. Over 70% executive team in place, we need thinkers as well as doers.’ of the stands have already sold and I think there is a big interest in While the board is well represented in terms of age, visiting Dublin. The fact that we are just one flight away from many company size and geography, it still has an imbalanced gender destinations, including the Eastern Seaboard of the US, is a big mix – just two of the 16-strong board are women. ‘We need attraction and we hope many of our colleagues in the community to encourage more women to get involved,’ urges Paul. ‘It is will come to visit us next June. Am I confident? Yes. Am I nervous? hugely important that the board is represented with a good mix Not too nervous, but I need to ensure I am fully involved in order from origin, roasting, machines and retail, as well as in terms to calm those nerves.’ of geography, gender and age. We will clarify this December With alignment, strategy, succession and World of Coffee which board members will run for re-election next June and Dublin to juggle along with the day job at Marco Beverage will be encouraging members of the community to nominate Systems, it doesn’t sound like Paul will have much time for nerves. themselves and others for election, particularly where there is a ‘I’m lucky, the team here are very supportive. Plus I enjoy being board imbalance.’ busy, which is a good thing, as it’s going to be a busy year!’
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WORLD OF COFFEE
THE WORLD’S A STAGE Thousands of coffee lovers from around the world landed in Gothenburg during Midsummer Week where SCAE staged Europe’s greatest coffee celebration, the Nordic World of Coffee.
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his year’s event, sponsored by BWT water+more, attracted 4,073 unique visitors from 81 countries, more than half of whom returned on days two and three of the show. The visitors flocked to the Swedish Exhibition & Congress Centre to do business with over 1,000 exhibitors who showcased their products and services on 155 stands in a 3,000sq.m. exhibition. Of course, SCAE’s flagship event is more than just an exhibition, it’s a carnival of coffee. This year’s World of Coffee featured no less than five enthralling World Competitions: the SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A; the New Product of the Show Awards, sponsored by Wilfa; the SCAE Photography Awards; three busy days of cuppings, seminars and talks, the inspirational Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium. which was held for the first time on the eve of the show, and of course, plenty of exciting parties, including the SCAE Party at Liseberg Amusement Park, the Gothenburg Street Food Festival and the WCE and Astoria’s Official Barista After Party. David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, paid tribute to the supporters who made World of Coffee happen. ‘I would like to sincerely thank the working group here in Gothenburg who have worked so hard to make the Nordic World of Coffee the best ever, and the hundreds of wonderful volunteers who freely gave their time to help stage this event. I am particularly thankful also to our sponsors BWT water+more, our Official Event Host; Indonesia Specialty Coffee and the Indonesian Embassy, Official Coffee Producing Country Sponsor; Demus S.p.A., sponsor of the SCAE Excellence Awards; Wilfa, sponsor of the New Product of the Show Awards; and KeepCup, Volunteers’ sponsor, whose support has enabled us to stage such a great event.’ »
Above: David Veal, Executive Director, Paul Stack, President, Cosimo Libardo, Past President and Yannis Apostolopoulos, Vice President, SCAE, pictured with Frank Neuhausen, CEO, BWT water+more (centre) at the Nordic World of Coffee Welcome Reception. BWT water+more was appointed Official Event Host of the Nordic World of Coffee. Image: Chris Dobbs Top and opposite page: There was plenty to excite visitors at the Nordic World of Coffee. Images: Danilea Linares and Matias Sauter CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 31
WORLD OF COFFEE
INSPIRING EXCELLENCE SCAE’s core mission is to ‘Inspire Coffee Excellence’ around the world, an objective that it would not be able to achieve without the support of members and volunteers at ground level. At the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg the Association honoured those who strive to make a difference in the global coffee community.
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roudly sponsored by Demus S.p.A., the annual SCAE Excellence Awards are judged by the SCAE International Development Committee and honour members who have contributed to the success of the industry through education, innovation, sustainability and entrepreneurship. David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE, explains: ‘The SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A., recognise the achievement of members within the coffee community, rewarding the passion and commitment of those who work tirelessly to grow and improve our industry. Through these Awards each year we honour those who have the courage, the imagination, and the drive to make a difference in the global coffee community regardless of rank or place.’ The Awards were presented on Wednesday, 17 June at the Nordic World of Coffee. The 2015 winners are:
Pictured at the presentation of the SCAE Excellence Awards were Colin Smith, Yves Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, Konstantinos Kostantinopoulos, Patrick O’Malley, Mathias Nabutele, Max Fabian and Heinz Trachsel
Young Entrepreneur Award This award is presented to a young and enthusiastic member of the coffee industry who has shown drive, determination and perseverance in their field to be successful in the coffee trade. Winner: Konstantinos Kostantinopoulos, Chief Executive of Coffee Island Since joining Coffee Island as Production Manager in 2010, Konstantinos Kostantinopoulos has risen to the top of the company, doubling Coffee Island in size, introducing it to new markets and becoming Europe’s seventh biggest coffee chain in the process. Konstantinos, who has a background in mechanical engineering and aeronautics, has embraced the coffee industry with vigour over the last six years. Today he holds the SCAE Coffee Diploma, he is an Authorised SCAE Trainer of Barista, Brewing, Green Coffee, Sensory and Roasting modules, he is certified as a National Judge and he serves as National Coordinator of SCAE Hellas. He regularly travels to farms around the world, rolling out Coffee Island’s Microfarm Project, a direct trade programme. Under his stewardship Coffee Island roasts more than 720 tonnes of premium and speciality coffee per year, and has a network of 256 coffee shops.
Max Fabian of Demus S.p.A, SCAE Excellence Awards sponsor
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Passionate Educator Award This award is presented to an individual who has made a concerted effort to communicate to others the wonderful pleasure that coffee can bring us. Winner: Patrick O’Malley, International Barista & Coffee Academy (IBCA), Espresso Italia, Infusion Coffee + Tea, and LiquidTech Coffee Services Patrick O’Malley is as close to a ‘Professor of Coffee’ as one can get. A native of Arizona, USA, he fell in love with coffee in the early years of his career in the hospitality industry and went on to found Espresso Italia in 1999, an importer of fine Italian coffee, espresso machines and grinders. He later expanded the empire with Infusion Fine Tea, a supplier of artisan teas, and LiquidTech, the service arm of the business. Patrick became just the 43rd person in the world to achieve SCAE’s Coffee Diploma in 2012 and his passion for coffee education led him to establish the International Barista & Coffee Academy (IBCA) in Tempe, Arizona, where he provides training in SCAE’s Introduction to Coffee, Barista Skills, Green Coffee, Sensory Skills, Roasting and Brewing modules. He is an Authorised SCAE Trainer, Master Roaster, Tea Sommelier and International Judge and a key supporter of SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System, regularly flying around the world to provide training.
WORLD OF COFFEE Innovation Award This award is presented to an individual or organisation that has successfully produced a new and innovative means of promoting the quality of coffee. Winner: Yves Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, Demus S.p.A. Demus S.p.A.’s R&D Manager, Yves Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, holds a Ph.D in Chemical Engineering. He has worked with the faculty of Chemical Engineering at the University of Trieste, researching the extraction of substances using carbon dioxide (CO2) at supercritical state. He is a coffee innovator and has recently conducted exciting research into, and the execution of, an alternative water decaffeination process using activated charcoal at Demus S.p.A. and Demus Lab.
of areas around Mount Elgon. The organisation also encourages collective conservation of the environment through the different farmer groups. Farmers are encouraged to plant shade trees on their farms that improve soil fertility and provide an additional source of income when they mature. Coffee A Cup is also embarking on a new project to provide 13,000 cooking stoves which will reduce wood consumption and help reduce respiratory diseases by making kitchens healthier. Lifetime Achievement Award The Lifetime Achievement Award is a special award presented by SCAE each year to an individual from the coffee industry that has furthered the interests of the coffee community by promoting the concept of quality coffee in a statesmanlike manner.
Working Towards Sustainability The Working Towards Sustainability award is presented to a smallholder, estate, cooperative, mill or farm in an origin country that has worked to adapt traditional farming or coffee preparation methods in an effort to improve the environment and help sustain the industry. Winner: Mathias Nabutele, Coffee A Cup Coffee A Cup has worked diligently to try and prevent landslides in Uganda that have killed hundreds through the reforestation
Winner: Heinz Trachsel Heinz Trachsel has dedicated much of his career to inspiring excellence in coffee. He spent 40 years working in the industry, spearheading domestic and international marketing and sales of fully automatic professional Swiss espresso coffee machines. A SCAE member for over a decade, Heinz served as Swiss National Coordinator from 2006-2012, leading the local organisation team for World of Coffee Berne in 2006. He was voted ‘National Coordinator of the Year’ in 2010, became a member of the Education Committee in 2009 and he is a co-creator of the Coffee Diploma System. Heinz has been a constant ally of the Association since he joined in 2004, serving as a board member since 2012, vice chair of the Membership Committee, and the Regional Coordinator for Switzerland, Germany and Austria from 2012-2014. ‘Heinz has been a passionate supporter of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe, contributing significantly to the development of our education programme, among other initiatives. We are hugely grateful for the time and expertise he has offered the Association over the past decade,’ said David Veal. »
Heinz Trachsel, winner of the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award
via Caboto, 31 34147 Trieste Italy info@demus.it www.demus.it CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 33
WORLD OF COFFEE
INNOVATION AWARDED The New Product of the Show Awards, sponsored by Wilfa, are the definitive guide to the hottest new products and services at World of Coffee each year and shine a spotlight on the most exciting new innovations to enter the market over the last 12 months.
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his year’s winners, who were announced on day one of the show in Gothenburg, included a new online community where coffee growers and roasters can interact, an espresso cupping cup, a cup with e-paper display powered by hot coffee, an all-in-one, portable pour-over coffee maker, an eco-friendly bag, natural syrup range and nondairy frappe. The winners were selected by an independent panel of coffee and hospitality experts following an intensive judging process, combining written submissions, Dragons’ Den-style presentations to the jury on the eve of the event, and product demonstrations on the opening day of World of Coffee. The jury selected seven products for honours at the event. They were: Best New Packaging Solution The Eco-Friendly Box Pouch with Front Zipper from Dutch Pack International What is it? An airtight recyclable bag with high barrier foil that keeps beans fresh for long periods. It is available in a variety of sizes and finishes, with different options for reclosability and degassing valves. What did the jury say? ‘This package is innovative and recyclable, offering an ecofriendly solution at a competitive price point. The front zip provides flexibility and the flat bottom offers ease of use.’ More info dutchpack.eu
Best New Non-Coffee Beverage Zuma Non-Dairy Vanilla Bean Frappe from Beyond the Bean What is it? A vanilla frappe powder suitable for use with milk or as a non-dairy milk alternative. What did the jury say? ‘This nondairy product offers a neat solution that is highly practical, caters to special dietary requirements and meets very different consumer needs.’ More info beyondthebean.com Best New Technology & IT Innovation Algrano What is it? The first online community where coffee growers and roasters can meet, interact and eventually become business partners. Algrano makes direct sourcing of micro lots hassle-free for roasters, producers and logistic partners while providing end to end transparency on prices. What did the jury say? ‘Algrano triumphed in this highly competitive category, impressing judges with its innovative new online platform which provides greater transparency in the coffee process – from crop to cup – and facilitates conversations between farmers, baristas and consumers.’ More info algrano.com
Best New Food Product Espresso Syrup from AB Borowiec What is it? A range of all-natural flavoured syrups created by coffee lovers, free from artificial colourings, flavours or preservatives. What did the jury say? ‘Made from natural ingredients and competitively priced for an all-natural product, the range includes a wide selection of flavours.’ More info cafeborowka.pl
Best Coffee Convenience Product Paulig Muki from Oy Gustav Paulig AB What is it? A takeaway cup with an e-paper display that is powered by hot coffee and can be used to download images or send messages. What did the jury say? ‘This exciting new cup with e-paper display powered by hot coffee provides an innovative platform to connect customers with each other and your brand in a fun way.’ More info pauligmuki.com
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WORLD OF COFFEE Best Domestic Coffee Equipment Cafflano Klassic from Beanscorp What is it? A portable, all-in-one, pourover coffee maker combining a hand-mill grinder, pourover kettle, stainless etching filter dripper and tumbler with lid. What did the jury say? ‘This all-in-one, portable, pour-over coffee maker is an ingenious consumer product that will appeal to speciality coffee enthusiasts around the world.’ More info cafflano.com
David Veal, SCAE, and Tony Andersson, Wilfa, present Raphael Studer, Algrano, with the award for Best New Technology & IT Innovation. Image: Chris Dobbs
Meet the Jury Best Professional Coffee Equipment The Revelation Cup by L’Arbre a Café What is it? The Revelation Cup is the first cupping cup for espresso, designed to appeal to the different senses – sight through its shape, smell through its aromatic opening, touch through the thick stoneware and taste with the organoleptic clarity it enables. What did the jury say? ‘This was another hugely competitive category. The Revelation Cup ultimately took first place, impressing with its concept and delivery. The espresso cupping cup changes your sensory experience of coffee – from smell to taste and touch, transforming your cupping experience.’ More info larbreacafe.com
As part of their prize, the winners will each receive publicity with SCAE to the value of €3,000. Keep an eye out for future issues of Café Europa to learn more about these great products. »
The New Product of the Show Awards are judged independently from SCAE by a panel of experts from the café, catering, hotel and academic sectors. The 2015 judges were: • Kristofer Gibson, Technical Development – Product Manager, Costa Express • Jonathan Morris, Author and Editor of coffee-related publications and Professor of Modern History at the University of Hertfordshire • Steve Lovegrove, Head of Business Excellence – Hot Beverages, Compass Group UK & Ireland • Krister Dahl, Executive Chef, Gothia Towers
(l-r) Krister Dahl, Jonathan Morris, Kris Gibson and Steve Lovegrove
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WORLD OF COFFEE
TAKE FIVE
World Brewers Cup finalists
Five new World Champions were crowned and one marriage proposed at the Nordic World of Coffee.
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urope scored highly at this year’s Coffee Championships in Gothenburg with three of the five new World Champions hailing from the region, including two from neighbouring Norway. But while it was a great performance for the host continent, the event was arguably even better for Australia’s Caleb Cha who celebrated winning the World Latte Art Championship by dropping to one knee and proposing to his – very surprised – girlfriend on stage. (She said yes!)
A total of 36 National Latte Art Champions, 28 National Brewer Champions, 36 National Cup Tasters Champions, 10 National Coffee Roasting Champions, and 14 National Coffee in Good Spirits Champions took part in the championships over the three days. Along with thousands of spectators at the event, a massive 43,850 viewers around the world watched the competitions live online.
Minkeun Choi, Joanna Alm and Audun Sørbotten triumphed in World Coffee Roasting Championship 36 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
WORLD OF COFFEE
THE RESULTS World Latte Art Championship Champion: Caleb Cha, Cafenatics, Australia 2nd: Xuechao Wang, Jiangbeileran Coffee, China 3rd: Kyeong-woo Jung, Corea Coffee Belt, South Korea 4th: Mao Nagura, Fonz, Japan 5th: Arnon Thitiprasert, RISTR8TO, Thailand 6th: Hong-Sheng Liao, Café Moment, Taiwan World Brewers Cup Champion: Odd-steinar Tøllefsen, Supreme Roastworks, Norway 2nd: Konstantinos Iatridis, Taf, Greece 3rd: Benjamin Prager, Bear Brothers & Cow, Switzerland 4th: Sarah Jean Anderson, Intelligentsia Coffee, USA 5th: Rob Kerkhoff, Babo Coffee, The Netherlands 6th: Ruslan Shulga, Omni Coffee, Russia World Cup Tasters Championship Champion: Juan Gabriel Cespedes, Ecomtrading Costa Rica, Costa Rica 2nd: Mateusz Petlinski, Woyton Roast Inc., Germany 3rd: Yoeri Joosten, Boot Koffie, The Netherlands 4th: Krisse McGregor, Coffee Lab, New Zealand World Coffee Roasting Championship Champion: Audun Sørbotten, Audun Coffee, Norway 2nd: Joanna Alm, Drop Coffee, Sweden 3rd: Minkeun Choi, Coffee HOW’S Company, South Korea World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship Champion: George Koustoumpardis, The Underdog, Greece 2nd: Ondrej Hurtík, doubleshot, Czech Republic 3rd: Paul Ungureanu, Paul Ungureanu Consulting, Romania 4th: Eduardo Affonso Scorsin, Lucca Cafés Especiais, Brazil 5th: Sang Moo Hyun, Maris Coffees, South Korea 6th: Sang Ho Park, Square Mile Coffee, United Kingdom » World Latte Art Champion, Caleb Cha
World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion, George Koustoumpardis Images: WCE CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 37
WORLD OF COFFEE
1.
PHOTO FINISH 2.
4.
3.
Winning pics 1. From Bean To Cup – ‘The Process’ by Seivijus Matiejunas 2. The Artist's Way – ‘Ethiopian Coffee Break, Jimma, Ethiopia’ by Jonatan Låstbom 3. The Bean And The Farm – ‘The Origin of How it all Starts, Los Soldaditos’ by Ximena Rubio 4. The People And The Bean – ‘It Takes Thousands to Make Coffee Happen, I'm Proud’, Kateřina Husičková 38 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
WORLD OF COFFEE
SCAE’s ever-popular annual Photography Awards proved to be another great crowd-pleaser at World of Coffee 2015.
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his year’s competition drew record entries from across the coffee community in Europe and around the world. The Awards were judged by a panel of experts, all of whom have a creative eye and a keen interest in great photography. The members of the jury were Johan Damgaard, Johan & Nyström; Ludovic Maillard, Maison P. Jobin & Cie S.A.S.; Alessandro Bonuzzi, Artisan Coffee; and Sarah Grennan, Café Europa magazine. Open to amateur photographers who work in the coffee industry, this year’s categories celebrated coffee’s process, people, artists and farms. The winners were: From Bean to Cup – Seivijius Matiejunas The People and the Bean – Katerina Husickova The Artist's Way – Jonathan Låstbom The Bean and the Farm – Ximena Rubio
Winter W O N D E R S
The colder weather can bring profitable opportunities for hot drinks. DaVinci Gourmet syrups and sauces will inspire you to create a seasonal menu to warm your customers’ hearts.
World of Coffee visitors were also given an opportunity to vote for their favourite photograph through the official World of Coffee app and the People’s Choice Award was presented to Katerina Husickova.
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29%
of consumers are motivated by a theme or occasion when purchasing
BERRY
Christmas
MACCHIATO Jonathan Låstbom pictured with the SCAE Photography Award for ‘The Artist's Way’
INGREDIENTS
12oz/360ml
DaVinci Gourmet Gingerbread Syrup 2 pumps DaVinci Gourmet Raspberry Syrup 1 pumps Espresso 2 shots Milk 250ml DIRECTIONS ADD syrups to base of cup ADD Espresso TOP with steamed milk
For inspiration, check out our online recipe videos www.davinci-gourmet.com
at www.davinci-gourmet.com
@DaVinci_Gourmet
*Independent research, commissioned by DaVinci Gourmet and conducted by Cambridge Direction
Seivijius Matiejunas with the SCAE Photography Award for ‘From Bean to Cup’ CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 39
WOMEN IN COFFEE
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WOMEN IN COFFEE
The IWCA
Connecting Women to Lead Their Own Revolution As SCAE signs a three-year Memorandum of Understanding with the International Women’s Coffee Alliance, KELLE VANDENBERG reflects on the crucial work undertaken by the organisation and its members to empower women in the coffee community.
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ithin the world of coffee, women are taking more predominant roles in all aspects of the industry. In consuming countries and in producing countries, women hold key positions of power, are leaders within their communities, and lend their voices to policies that affect their world. I have heard the term ‘quiet revolution’ used to describe the changing role women play within the coffee industry. The gender gap remains a real and true divide, and when you listen to the voices of the women in coffee, you begin to understand the challenges that women must overcome. To quote my friend Lucia Ortiz of El Salvador, ‘I think there are a lot of amazing women… the coffee business always used to be handled by men, but because of destiny or times, now more women are in charge of farms, as producers, and are getting involved in all facets of the coffee chain.’ The coffee industry has challenges ahead. With the rust outbreak affecting roughly 53% of all coffee grown in the world, compounded by rising global temperatures affecting coffee yield worldwide, we are seeing a reduction in overall coffee production.
It will take innovation and diversification to stabilise the coffee crisis. I believe that women are assuming larger roles in coffee due to the changing times, allowing diversification of ideas, practices, and policy. The expanding role of women in coffee impacts directly on the livelihood of their immediate community. Women, statistically, keep the money local, share their knowledge, and give back to their community. We see this happening all over the world, in every level of economic situations. When People Stand Together, They Stand Stronger This is the underlying thread that weaves the story of the International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA). Over 10 years ago, a group of women came together and travelled to origin. On that journey, they met women coffee growers who, in turn, shared their journey, their experience, and their challenges. As it often happens when people of different cultures come together and speak of their experiences, the similarities bound them together in a shared humanity and ideas of how to help began to grow. »
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#internationalcoffeeday
WOMEN IN COFFEE
Princess Lalah with women of the Philippines
Understanding the new role of development helps you understand what the International Women’s Coffee Alliance does. It is a group of dedicated women and men who understand that, in order to maintain a sustainable coffee industry, they must strengthen the heart of the coffee community: the women and children. The International Women’s Coffee Alliance is simply about making connections to help people help themselves. The IWCA offers a hand up rather than a hand out. We teach, we mentor, we introduce, and we recommend. We make connections, knowing that, working together, we grow a strong global coffee community. We believe strongly in localisation and building a community outreach through our chapters, knowing that those living in a community know the needs of that community best. Local chapters become a local resource at the source. When we started, it was at best a good intention that has since grown in the last 10 years to become an incredible 19 chapters globally. These are chapters that have benefited from the IWCA in leadership training, strategic planning, business development, technical training, health and medical programmes. The programmes have impacted policy, community, personal and professional growth and strengthened women’s role within the supply chain.
Women of El Salvador By Lucia Ortiz Sonia Castaneda, director of Alianza de Mujeres en Café de El Salvador (AMCES), the El Salvador chapter of the IWCA, was married to a coffee producer and was widowed very young. With three children and a big coffee farm to handle, she learned quickly and on the job. She took control of her situation, her farm and, now, her coffees are Cup of Excellence winners. With amazing high quality, she now exports to Europe and is always active in the coffee community. She has a strong will and is not afraid to say what she thinks, and doesn’t shy away from the truth. Sonia is one of El Salvador’s top producers and is highly respected in the coffee community. Carmen de Silva, secretary of AMCES, is an amazing woman. She is a top producer and a ‘heart giver’. Carmen gives a lot to her community, hosting lunch every Thursday for all the elderly in her coffee town who do not have anything to eat or can’t afford a good meal. She also owns a coffee mill that she created. Carmen provides faith and love to others and has passed on her strong will to her family of admiring women. Lya de Castaneda is a member of AMCES and an example of what a woman can do. She is the daughter of a coffee producer and married a coffee producer; she has literally grown up in coffee. She started a bakery at her house when she was young with other little kids in the area. Being a woman with impressive
IWCA members at the AFCA Conference & Exhibition
The expanding role of women in coffee impacts directly on the livelihood of their immediate community. Women, statistically, keep the money local, share their knowledge, and give back to their community. The International Women’s Coffee Alliance brings people together for training, helps source funding, and builds a vast network of resources that women can utilise at their local chapter level. We are helping to give women the tools necessary to build their own dreams. I share with you a glimpse of some of the many women of coffee and the incredible example of successful innovation, teaching, and giving back to their community that strengthens the world of coffee, one farm at a time. The following are individual journeys as told by the women themselves, through their voices.
entrepreneurship, Lya learned how to diversify. She exports her coffee and kept the bakery, which has become very well-known. Now she has her own coffee brand (Bosque de Lya), creates coffee seeds covered with chocolate, and her latest project is coffee liqueur. Lya is a great example of what women can do! Women of the Philippines: Princess KumalahSug-Elardo By Pacita Juan, IWCA Philippine Chapter She thought she would retire soon as her children were almost finished college. But one fateful visit to her birthplace, Panamao, Sulu, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo, now 62 years old, changed her life and the life of so many others. » CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 43
WOMEN IN COFFEE
A Burundi farmer with a bag of Coffee By Design’s Burundi Kayanza Bourbon coffee
Four years ago, Princess Lalah, as she is known to many, saw how coffee was being dried and processed in her small town. They would spread the drying coffee berries on the road and hope that some vehicles come and run them over – to crack the shells and expose the coffee beans. That is how they processed coffee. In one coffee summit organised by the non-profit Philippine Coffee Board, Inc. (PCBI), she learned that coffee is better off being harvested ripe and then washed it to get the best flavour. She went to work and first put a water line from the hills to her town. She did this ‘bayanihan’ style (where villagers work together with no pay) and asked the members to chip in a few thousand peso savings so they could finally have water flowing in their taps. And so water came to Panamao.
In just a year, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo raised the incomes of the families from zero to P10,000 (USD $250) a year. Soon, many more villages went into coffee harvesting with the motto ‘Pick Red’. Her coop would only buy red ripe cherries and would also buy civet droppings at a special price. Civet droppings come from wild civets who roam the Sulu forests. It is a prized coffee selection that commands a premium price due to its exotic nature. In 2012, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo started to sell more coffee to Manila markets and also joined the International Women’s Coffee Alliance-Philippines chapter as a founding trustee. This opened her doors to more markets, retail and wholesale. She also joined the Management Association of the Philippines Agri Business and Countryside Development (MAPABCDF) as a regular member and got to know businessmen who would be her benefactors and friends, buying her coffee and raising funds through projects such as purchasing generators and cable TV for her community. Already, her town mates are busy harvesting and processing coffee and the men have put down their arms because Princess has shown them another way to live – peacefully and economically-vibrant – through a most important product called coffee. One Woman from Burundi: My Story By Isabelle Sinamenye As a woman in the coffee sector, I was designated to participate in the workshop of IWCA/ITC/AFCA, ‘Promoting Possibilities’, which was held in Kampala in 2009. I was the only one in my country to participate. When I came back home, I translated the ‘Country Chapter Development Manual’ into French (our official language) to facilitate the socialisation and teach what I had learned. After the
IWCA members in El Salvador 44 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
WOMEN IN COFFEE
SCAE & IWCA – SUPPORTING WOMEN IN COFFEE At the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg this June, the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe and the International Women’s Coffee Alliance signed a three-year Memorandum of Understanding recognising their common purpose to empower women in the international coffee community to achieve meaningful, sustainable lives and encourage and recognise women's participation in all segments of the coffee industry. The International Women's Coffee Alliance (IWCA) and Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) are committed to working together to provide relevant educational programmes, promote and create women's opportunities and common codes of conduct, and women's empowerment within a sustainable supply chain for the speciality coffee industry.
A worker at the washing station in the Democratic Republic of Congo
establishment of our IWCA Burundi chapter, I was inspired by my work to find a viable project that would enhance the living standards of women members of the IWCA Burundi and help in producing coffee for their families. Our goal was to produce and sell top quality coffee. Through the IWCA connection, we found BD Imports, which bought twice the coffee from our members and it allowed us to distribute twice the bonus to members who have put together their coffees. We also partnered with Burundi Friends International and 110 IWCA members received two goats to fertilise their farms, provide milk, and, additional income for our families. A profit-splitting plan was developed between IWCA Burundi, the local washing station owner, and BD Imports that provided a bonus payment to the IWCA Burundi members based on the coffee selling price. This year, Mawazo, one of the IWCA Burundi members, rode her bicycle to visit me and share her story. ‘I was at my home when I heard about IWCA. I became an IWCA member in March 2013. I received 60,000 Fr Bu (approx. USD $40.00) as a bonus for the coffee I sold to the Karehe washing station and I bought this bicycle. Now if my child is ill, I can take him to see the doctor on my bicycle.’ A Shared Voice I am grateful to the women of coffee who have shared their stories, either directly or through the voices of others. It has been my honour to share a few examples of the way that women change lives every day by coming together leading their quiet revolution from the seat of their bicycle. To learn more about the International Women’s Coffee Alliance go to www.womenincoffee.org
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KELLE VANDENBERG is a former vice-president of IWCA and the VP of Marketing at PBi.
Mery Santos, Vice President, IWCA, receives a cheque for €5,000 from David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE
Desiree Logsdon, president of the IWCA, believes that the spirit of the MOU is directly related to the mission of the IWCA. ‘Our mission, to empower women in the international coffee community to achieve meaningful and sustainable lives; and to encourage and recognise the participation of women in all aspects of the coffee industry is directly aligned with the purpose of this collaboration.’ Together, SCAE and the IWCA will be able to: • Provide market access and/or marketplace • Recognise women's achievement • Create a global approach • Foster networking • Create a platform for leadership training and professional development. David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, could not agree more. ‘Entering into this agreement helps to leverage both organisation's efforts to make a real difference to the lives of women in coffee.’ With a mission of inspiring coffee excellence through innovation, education, research and most importantly, communication, SCAE, in alliance with the IWCA, can raise awareness of the needs of women throughout the coffee supply chain.
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INTERVIEW
SAVING THE CIVET Sourcing Ethical Kopi Luwak
Civet coffee, or kopi luwak, has caused controversy due to the unscrupulous farming practices of some producers, which were highlighted in a BBC documentary in 2013. But not all kopi luwak should be tarred with the same brush, argues Matthew Ross, who has worked hard to create a sustainable and ethically sourced kopi luwak, collected from wild civets that are free to roam the Indonesian jungle. SCAE’s ANDRA VLAICU met the man behind the Ross Kopi brand at the Nordic World of Coffee this summer to find out more about this unusual coffee.
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How did you get started in coffee? I’ve always loved coffee. When I was a kid, I would drink my mother’s Nescafé when she wasn’t looking. When special people visited, we would have a cafetiere and we would leave the ground coffee in the fridge for months, but it still tasted great to me. I got serious about coffee in 2009. I was having a meal in Japan, at an amazing restaurant where the meal comprised delicacies and the coffee was terrible! I asked where it was from and they said ‘it’s from Italy’. I was amazed that these restaurants could pay such attention to detail when it came to food, but then it didn’t carry through into the coffee. I thought to myself, in my wisdom of not knowing anything about coffee, ‘I’m going to make that delicacy coffee’. That year I took a trip to Banda Aceh, Indonesia, and I realised that kopi luwak, on paper, could be the delicacy coffee I was after. I set up a company with a couple of partners and after a couple of years, what began as an interest became just… everything. I left Hong Kong and banking and moved to Sumatra, living on and off, for two years, in Banda Aceh and Tanjung. I started living my coffee and it was fantastic! I lived in a very small house, renting it for $6 a month, and I learned ‘bahasa’ [Indonesian language] and about the wonderful people of Sumatra.
INTERVIEW
Matthew Ross pictured in London’s famous Harrods department store where Ross Kopi was promoted
uneaten because they only eat the exact amount of what they want. When I was living in Banda Aceh there was a papaya that a luwak kept for over five days, so they choose just the best coffee to start with. When it gets through their stomach, there are enzymes in there that change the peptone. This takes the bitterness out of coffee because the actual biological mechanics of the civet cat changes the chemistry of the bean, which is part of the cat’s fermentation process. I think there’s a lab in Korea trying to replicate this fermentation process, to obtain the same coffee. There is a real reason why there is no animal like it.
Lake Laut Tawar in the Gayo Highlands of Northern Sumatra, where Matthew sources kopi luwak
Making a real Luwak is extremely hard and difficult. There are challenges everywhere – not just challenges with the beans, but also challenges socially and geographically. It’s flooded with challenges and I only realised this when I was way too heavily submerged in it. At a certain point, with Kopi, you can only lose what nature’s given you. Safeguarding that bean is really hard with Luwak, but ultimately, very enjoyable. What made you choose luwak? You can have excellent speciality coffee much easier than luwak and some might say it tastes just as well or even better. You can, of course, but for me it was the perfect delicacy I was looking for. I remember Dan Barber doing a speech about a guy in Spain who was making a natural version of foie gras without the gavage. I thought this was amazing. I think for a delicacy to have rarity it has to be artisan. There has to be a mysterious element of how it’s made which conjures up a bit of magic and I thought that luwak had that. What do civets do to coffee that it makes it so special? First, the cat has an amazing sense of smell and you can see through the jungle that there are coffee trees and guava fruits
What about its bad reputation? Animal activists argue that the civets are cruelly farmed. Kopi luwak's popularity fell off a cliff in about one week. Tony Galindo did an expose for the BBC on luwak production in Northern Sumatra and that didn’t help. The challenge was there. The camera doesn’t lie. What they exposed was happening, but it was a very small size, in my opinion. You can find this in a couple of places, but you cannot say the whole industry is like that. It wasn’t nice what they saw – I think it was quite rough. Luwak was mis-sold in places, but that’s not where I’m coming from in this line of business. I was I tarred with the same brush and I didn’t think that was very fair on me – they put me back for months. I met Neal D’Cruze and Tony at WSPA and we started working on certification with the government. It’s something that needs to be done. This coffee needs to be registered and certificated – the burden of proof is on the producer. If these farms can prove it’s real, then they should do it. What’s the perception of kopi luwak in the countries you trade in? Since I’ve been selling it, the perception has been that it’s cruel, especially given the fact that I launched my business two months before the BBC documentary aired. Talk about timing! And then, of course, the actual process of getting it isn’t exactly inviting you to drink it… I’d like to think that we’re changing that by educating the client with our traceability and our story. How can consumers know that they are drinking the real deal? It comes down to traceability and being able to track your products source. If it’s just a bag of coffee with a sticker on it, who knows where the coffee came from? Food production is so mass market now that everyone is slapping a sticker on packaging and sending it out. I think we need to go back and start rewarding our farmers for a product that’s well made, that’s traceable and that tastes good. »
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INTERVIEW How many farms do you have? I have 52 farmers over a 300 miles radius in 12 different villages. I’m constantly working with 20 or 30, because the season changes and there are times where farmers don’t have any coffee. You know, you only really get luwak when it’s raining and cold, so you don’t get it all the time. How do you treat your animals? I’ve never seen one in my life, they live in the jungle. They are nocturnal jungle cats. I don’t live in a jungle and I do my operations during the day, so we don’t cross paths. I’ve seen them in cages, but I’ve never been in the jungle to track one down. How do you select your coffee? We find it in the morning and we rely entirely on luck to find it. They are very territorial animals and they use their moss gland to mark out territory and they normally are active within that territory. They like to deposit their ‘golds’ in parcels for us to find, mostly on fallen trees, but it can be anywhere, so it takes luck to find it. I walked many, many farms, without finding anything and sometimes you’ll find half a kilo in one spot. If it doesn’t rain for a few days you don’t find anything. And if you do, it’s probably too old and we can’t use old luwak, because it doesn’t taste good. What coffee do you use? It can be any variety, but this cat eats only the right beans. There are wild coffees and a lot of varietals in the Gayo Islands, so a cat could eat from any of those. The challenge for us is in insuring the right water percentage when roasting. You can have one variety of coffee with a dense bean and one variety with a less dense bean. When you do your coffee sample, it says it’s 12%, but in that you might have a couple of beans at 6%, because of density. When you roast it, you have one bean that tastes like charcoal and one bean that tastes accurate, like a grapefruit. Then we just stick the beans together in a bag for a couple of months and they sort of water one another – that’s why the process takes four months. That’s not exactly fresh coffee! I don’t know if there is any fresher coffee that’s been more looked after or cared for than ours. It’s not exactly fresh, no, but it wouldn’t be any good if it was.
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What criteria do you base your cuppings on? Does the kopi luwak from your area taste different from a kopi luwak from another area? How do you profile this coffee in order to know the differences and how do you create its main characteristics? We know what fruits are in season on the farm from the month we collect the coffee so that’s going to have an impact. We do manage and keep statistics on all our farmers so we can see what’s going on with flavours. And if one doesn’t taste right, then it’s a defect and we can trace it back. This isn’t some random roulette game, it needs to be professionalised and traceable. What we aim to do is create a system where we can ensure quality – where it’s going to be clean, completely defect free and taste sweet, but where we let the characteristics speak for themselves. We are going to create their own arena to shine and impress, by making them really well. When we have a cupping we know they’re all going to be 80 or 85, because that’s the quality that they need to be at. We don’t know the flavours – some might be really cinnamon, some might taste like spices or tobacco, some might be really sweet, and taste like guava fruit. What I will tell you is they’re going to be clean and sweet and balanced. How do you process your coffees, given the unusual way of getting your hands on it? Lots of people check if it’s real and then we wash it in spring water until it is completely clean. When it’s run clear, we dry it on reed trays, and we make sure each farm has its own tray so it doesn’t get blended with others. Then it dries nicely, sitting in a drying house where we measure the humidity and make sure everything is kept under strict parametric over a period of six to eight weeks.
INTERVIEW
Where do you think this trend with kopi luwak is heading? What is its stand on the Indonesian coffee market versus the rest of the world? With Ross Kopi, I set out that most obviously the cat is the main differentiator but it’s not what I’m selling it on. There are 18 stages in making this coffee, and the cat is only one of them. They’re all done inside Indonesia by Indonesian people, Indonesian farmers. For me to produce a product of that quality, it is through absolute professionalism, commitment, heart, love and all of the farmers whom I work with. I want this kopi luwak to showcase the crafts these guys can produce. They’re producing their own coffees on the side of this luwak, but through it they get a really good profile and a global name – because if you drink their luwak, you should consider drinking their other coffees as well. What’s the consumption of luwak in Indonesia? Funny enough, I’ve never sold any in Indonesia – it’s all based on export. In the Indonesian supermarket you can get something called ‘white caffe’, which is instant coffee you can pick up for 10 cents a sachet – so I’m up against a bit of a hurdle over there. It’s a fact that many coffee farmers don’t know what their coffee tastes like. Is this the case for your farmers too? It’s beautiful to see a farmer cup his coffee, then cup other farmers’ coffees and then to see the glow on his face when he realises his coffee is better, he has pride in what he does. As soon as you start educating, you cannot go back, you just progress and evolve. What about competition? I think the luwak industry is recovering and will recover as where there is a demand there has to be a supply. As with everything else, as you have your favourite whisky or favourite food, you must have your favourite coffee. The price will keep high if you keep the quality – the competition will only boost demand for high-level coffee. So, bring on more luwak producers, it’s going to be fantastic!
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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 49
CoLab = compelling education + discovering a coffee community + meeting new friends Barista Guild of Europe’s first CoLab event, held in collaboration with host partner Coffee Embassy, educational partner Tamper Tantrum and gold partner and espresso bar sponsor, Nuova Simonelli, took place in Prague earlier this year. RASHEL WINN recalls a weekend of education, discovery and friendship. Images: European Coffee Trip. 50 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
LEARNING
First attendees gathering for coffee at Cafe Jedna
‘What's Prague like?’ ‘You'll love it. It's beautiful and weird and dark, and sexy,’ he replied. I tried to picture it sometime later, waiting at the gate to leave the crisp grey skies of Dublin for BGE's first CoLab event, nestled in the heart of Bohemia. Thoughts of the city, however, were secondary – my purpose was people-specific, and for them I'd have gone anywhere. Barista Guild of Europe is a group I'd become familiar with seven months prior, when they hosted Europe's first Barista Camp. ‘Work hard, play hard,’ described it perfectly, and by the end of it my body was exhausted from the activities, my heart swollen with new friendships, and my mind tightly jammed with new information and ideas to carry back from Greece. CoLab aimed to be similarly within the ideal trifecta of knowledge-activity-connections, minus the rigorous exams (for which I was grateful): just a full day of talks given by people on the frontiers of coffee development in various fields, sandwiched between half-days of culture and cafés. A flying visit. Thursday found me at Cafe Jedna, as attendees and event crew alike trickled in for registration, greetings old-and-new, and our first coffees together. As our cluster of groups chatted,
certain themes were overheard: ‘Where are you from? What do you do in coffee? What do you think of THIS coffee?’ ‘Have you had the sausages here? They're, like, everywhere!’ ‘Were you at camp? Are you going to the next one?’ ...‘So, boat tour?’ The latter referred to the next event on our itinerary. After the last person had been checked in, the last lanyard handed out, and the last cup downed, we were off to the docks. The river was laced with boats, and as ours pulled out onto the water I was briefly dazed by Prague's dark, stunning beauty. This abated as we fell into animated talks over our new drinks (beers, this time around), before Kalle Freese took the mic to act as our tour guide. I use ‘act’ in that he wasn't our tour guide. Feeling game, we went along with it, laughing, and by the time we had returned to land we were feeling giddy and ravenous. Most of us went on to dinner together, in a tavern off a winding, cobblestoned street. I had no idea where we were, or what the place was called. I still don't. But we were fed in the straightforward, no-frills fashion I'd quickly come to associate with Czech food before we then ambled into the cool night, down more labyrinthine alleyways until our (smaller) group found a cocktail bar. The drinks were »
BGE Co-ordinator Isa Verschraegen at the registration desk
Coffee Sponsor doubleshot's Jaroslav Tuček engaging in the discussion CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 51
LEARNING
The afternoon panel discussion with Chris Hendon, Joanna Alm and Adam Neubauer and hosts Steve Leighton and Kalle Freese
elegant. My companions funny and insightful. My bed (much) later – incredibly welcome. The Meat of the Event Navigating Prague, via lost taxi, in the hurried morning that followed was none of the aforementioned descriptors. Regardless, just in time, the NTK came into view. This was where all the talks were happening, six in total, paired with Tamper Tantrum for coverage and panel discussion. The meat of the event. I felt the tension from the taxi journey give way to giddiness as I greeted my new friends, grabbed a goodie-stuffed tote bag and cup of much-needed filter coffee, and took a seat in the airy lecture hall. Steve Leighton and Kalle greeted all of us. ‘This will most definitely be the geekiest Tamper Tantrum we've had so far,’ Steve opened, and moments after we were fully immersed in the first presentation. At a glance, the six speakers seemed disparate, but they were united in their shared passion for their work in coffee, and the depths to which they explained their processes (read: ‘geekiness’). Chahan Yeretzian brought the nascent findings of his trials with water, packaging, and how we can better preserve our coffee. ‘In a statistical sense, “a” number [for measuring sensory quality] is nothing. You need a significant range [ex. 86 +/4, done by 3+ Q Graders]… There is no single molecule that specifically smells like coffee.’ Erna Tosberg, familiar to competing baristas and an experienced one herself, posed the question of whether baristas really needed competitions at all. (We do.) ’I grew so much as a barista… For me, it was very important that I found the [competition] coffee before I built my presentation… If I could make a new rule, I wouldn't allow people who've judged competitions to go back to competing!’ Tibor Varady, speaking more to newcomers to coffee listening to the Tamper Tantrum podcast later, spoke as a café owner about what he looks for when hiring. ‘If you know that it is more difficult to get a consistent espresso than to pour latte art [you're on the right track]… Preparing for the world [Brewers Cup] championship was one of my best developments [in coffee].’ When asked about employer/employee boundaries he said: ‘Don't think that because you're friends that you don't owe each other that respect as workers.’ A panel discussion followed, then a lunch break to let the talks soak in. We filed out of the hall, into the corridor outside where a cupping of local coffees gave us a better sense of how much speciality coffee had developed in this region of Europe. I cupped. I shoved a sandwich and fistfuls of grapes and pastries into my mouth while I listened to my friends and speakers during this brief break. Another cup of filter. A refreshed return to the lecture hall for Round Two. 52 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Adam Neubauer, a Prague local, spoke about psychology in coffee, social intelligence, and how we all benefit from making ourselves better, not just our coffee. ‘Most people will get what we're trying to do, and will wait [for that quality]. Communication of possible wait times, especially with filter, is still important though.’ Joanna Alm spoke about roasting, and her work at Drop Coffee. ‘We have so much science around brewing – I want us to be more brave with espresso too.’ She added: ‘All the feedback we receive from our baristas is super welcome, and it helps us a lot! Otherwise we're just in our own little bubble.’ Christopher Hendon, our last speaker, discussed grind size, the Brazil Nut effect, and 'intruders'. On staying in coffee when he goes for his post-grad at MIT: ‘I get a lot of emails about signature drinks. That's not going to change.’ On government funding for coffee research: ‘There's a lot of pushback, but [there shouldn't be] – it's a problem that's more relatable, and affects most people every day.’ Steve and Kalle closed the session with a last panel discussion, and we were released for a few hours before the muchwelcomed after-party was to happen back at Cafe Jedna. My mind felt it'd reached full capacity as it scrambled to hold on to everything all at once. I scribbled down notes, my writing shaky with the excitement brimming from my body. I was inspired! It felt as if we were sharing in a preview of concepts that were about to move speciality coffee into its next stage. (I dare not say wave.) The party after was a bubbly, energetic buzz as we feasted, drank (beers and liquors that night), danced, and dove into more detailed discussions about what we thought about what we'd heard earlier. I'll admit to being an unreliable narrator for this part – I remember laughing, loudly and often. I remember the feeling of wanting to work with all of these people, or to see them work, and I remember finding my bed with the feeling of being fully satiated, as I had been at Barista Camp not long before. The Last Morning I was still rubbing sleep from my eyes, but packed and prepared. I strayed off the given itinerary of a walking tour in favour of meeting my (soon to be faraway) friends at EMA Espresso Bar and later at Doubleshot. The early summer sun refreshed me as I went to interview a couple of lovely coffee friends for the First Draft Coffee blog, bolstered by the last coffees I could manage before I was again, too soon, waiting at the gate to return home. ‘What'd you think – was it like I said? Did you love it?’ he asked. I just grinned, my heart fuller than when it left, and nodded.
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TAKE PART: The next CoLab will be held in Paris from 17-19 November. Tickets are available now at baristaguildofeurope.com
QjA
PERNILLA OLOW-GARD
da Matteo’s PERNILLA OLOW-GARD was heavily involved in bringing World of Coffee to Gothenburg, managing the project at a local level for SCAE. She gives an insight into the organisation of Europe’s greatest coffee event.
How did the job as Local Project Manager come about? I had been involved for a couple of years locally on the project to bring the show to Gothenburg. When we won the tender to host World of Coffee, SCAE reached out to me to see if I would be available to project manage it locally. I managed to free up some time in my normal job as Marketing Manager at da Matteo in Gothenburg and do this part time. When did you start working on the project? I had been involved since early 2012, but started working on the project properly in April 2014, 14 months prior to the show. What did it involve? As Local Project Manager I oversaw the promotion in all Nordic countries, including establishing relationships with trade associations, working with the convention bureau on the city´s involvement, social events, identifying exhibitors and sponsors and many more little details along the way.
It was special to be able to show off our city and country to colleagues from all over the world.
What lessons did you learn in the role? Staying on your project schedule is important for such a big event that involves so many different aspects, so having that to look back at now and then was valuable. Also creating good relationships and communication with the different stakeholders is obviously key as well.
The SCAE Party, sponsored by BWT water+more, took place at Liseberg Amusement Park on a sunny night in Gothenburg
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Were you nervous before the show? I would say I was more excited than nervous. Maybe a bit nervous about the weather forecast, as you can´t really trust the weather in Sweden. Sun just makes everything so much more fun. We got a bit of a mix in the end, which was OK! How did it feel seeing all your plans come together when the show opened? I love that phase of a project when everything comes together – plans turn into action and reality. It was great.
What advice would you offer the team in Dublin and other World of Coffee hosts in the future? Establish good relationships with the convention bureau of the city, hotel and restaurant associations, and other organisations that take an interest in the show and can contribute. If the city comes together, it creates a much better event. What did staging the Nordic World of Coffee mean for Gothenburg, Sweden and the Nordic region? World of Coffee was quite a big event for Gothenburg and the city was very proud to host it. The city is used to hosting big events but I heard so many people say World of Coffee was special. It was well organised and the crowd is a very passionate one. For the coffee community in Gothenburg and Sweden, but also the other Nordic countries, I believe it was very special to be able to show off your city and country to colleagues from all over the world. It also kept people on their toes having so many coffee professionals visit their cafés and roasteries. We established a great relationship with the Gothenburg Restaurant Association, and many of their restaurants offered special coffee experiences for the guests during the week. This was something that not only made the restaurants look at the coffee they are serving but also highlighted their coffee for other diners.
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