we change coffee rituals again
Mina gives you the total control over your extraction. Profile your flow: the exclusive patented Dalla Corte technology will allow you to express yourself at your best by playing with the infusion and creating different curves for each taste you want to highlight. Flow profiling: the new parameter of the coffee extraction.
dallacorte.com #makeitbetter
Inside ISSUE 65 | AUTUMN 2O16
04 Welcome David Veal on changing the coffee world 06 Community The ‘who’s who’ of SCAE 10 Update News from the coffee community
38
12 Baristas Tibor Várady gets ready for Barista Camp 14 Cover Story The next steps in unification 18 Cup of Excellence Reports from Honduras, Costa Rica and Guatemala 20 Coffee Economics Big Challenges for Smallholders 22 Partners Return of Coffee Kids 24 Chapter Focus SCAE Switzerland 27 Research Does quality sell itself? 30 Roasters Meet the new RGE
12
34 Sustainability WCR tackles the key threats to coffee 38 Events World of Coffee Dublin review 47 Innovation New Product of the Show Awards winners 52 Equality Women in coffee 55 How To… Become an AST 56 Field Trip SCAE in Sumatra
58
22
58 Q&A Urbun’s Katie Gilroy
s Find U
Online
Read the n ition o digital ed m scae.co
52 CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 3
WELCOME
Changing the coffee world as we know it
Yannis Apostolopoulos, Executive Director, SCAE; Susie Spindler, Executive Director, Alliance for Coffee Excellence; Ric Rhinehart, Executive Director, SCAA; Christina Meinl, Vice President, SCAE and James Humpoletz, Marketing Manager, SCAE, pictured at the World of Coffee Dublin Welcome Reception
S
o we have finally done it. After months and years of talks, endless meetings, bi-conference calls, Skype, telephone, text, email and face-to-face, plenty of negotiating and compromising, due diligence and an intense campaign of communication and encouragement for members to vote, the decision has been taken. Members of both the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe and Specialty Coffee Association of America have voted to unify and thus become one association. A large proportion of the members of the worldwide speciality coffee community have considered carefully and decided that they want to be together to strengthen the foundations and bonds of this community even further. Is this a historic decision? Many would say so, given the history and groundbreaking influence that SCAA has enjoyed over the decades and the recent amazing growth of SCAE, which has allowed us to catch up with our American colleagues in many areas, plus the fierce independence that both have enjoyed over the years. So have we just seen a revolutionary decision that will shatter the tectonic plates of the coffee industry? Well perhaps not. When we examine the historic relationship between SCAA and SCAE we see a long journey of close cooperation 4 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
and collaboration. The very existence of SCAA was a major catalyst and inspiration in the inception of SCAE back in 1998. Irma Knutsen, the godmother of speciality coffee who is widely attributed with coining the phrase ‘speciality coffee’, said early on ‘once you have discovered speciality coffee there is no going back’.
David Veal
collaborations and friendships were formed so that by the time that we started talking about unification we knew each other pretty well, had worked together and more importantly, shared very similar values and aspiration, and we lived, worked and played in the same vibrant worldwide coffee community. In a historical context, therefore, what is about to happen is no great surprise or gamechanging move. It is the result of many years of evolution. But looking to the future, is it seismic shift in the speciality coffee world? You bet it is. Together we are going to change the coffee world as we know it. Not just the speciality coffee community forever, this really is a new chapter. When we do unify, together we will have nearly 10,000 members. That is a massive constituency to allow a new, nascent association to change things. And we will have a much stronger voice to advocate what we believe in, both in terms of what we say and what we do – be it promoting speciality coffee, encouraging new members to join us, or encouraging new countries and markets to embrace speciality coffee. And most importantly we will be in a position to have a real
When we do unify, together we will have nearly 10,000 members. That is a massive constituency to allow a new, nascent association to change things.
Her words had a deep resonance on this side of the Atlantic. A letter of intent between the two associations was quickly drawn up and many of the words and phrases embodied in that letter are similar or identical to the words or phrases in the new agreement. We soon joined forces with the inauguration of the World Barista Championship in 2000 and in 2010 formerly came together as joint owners of World Coffee Events, the organising company of seven world coffee championships. Over the years many
influence, in word and deed, on some of the serious issues that at the moment are presenting a barrier to a secure, healthy future for speciality coffee. As we move into the operational stage of unification all 10,000 of us should be motivated and encouraged by the changes that are about to take place. So be ready to play your part and hold on for a really exciting ride. David Veal Executive Director Speciality Coffee Association of Europe
SIGNPOST
SCAE BOARD OF DIRECTORS SCAE EXECUTIVE TEAM President Paul Stack (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy), Toby Estates Vice President Christina Meinl (Austria), Julius Meinl Executive Director David Veal (UK), SCAE Deputy Executive Director Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece), SCAE
Nils Erichsen (Germany), Ube Erichsen Beteiliungs
Tibor Várady (Hungary), Barista Guild of Europe
Luigi Morello (Italy), La Cimbali
Ludovic Maillard (France), Maison Jobin
Johan Damgaard (Sweden), Johan & Nyström
Alberto Polojac (Italy), Imperator
David Veal, Executive Director Yannis Apostolopoulos, Deputy Executive Director Michelle Hawkins, PA to Executive Director Membership Team Jackie Malone, Chapter Coordinator Isa Verschraegen, Guild Manager Hannah Davies, Guild Coordinator Alison Wraight, Membership Advisor Lewis Young, Data Analyst Lesley Potts, Membership Accounts Clerk Robyn Stevenson, Membership Administrator Anna Barlow, Retention Officer Min Min Wang, China Representative Education Team Susan Hollins, Education Manager Annemarie Tiemes, Education Field Manager Kim Staalman, Education Field Coordinator Owen Thom, Quality Coordinator Megan Guo, Asia Coordinator Yun Jung Jung, Asia Coordinator Alex Morrell, Education Coordinator Aidan Jones, Education Administrator Kay Bennett, Education Administrator Hayley May, Education Administrator Events Team Garret Buckley, Events Manager Rebecca Dunwoody, Event Operations Manager Margaret Andreucetti, Exhibition Sales Manager Jens Henrik Thomsen, Sponsorship Coordinator Marketing Team James Humpoletz, Marketing Manager Andra Vlaicu, Marketing Assistant Richard Stiller, Marketing Assistant Keith Amos, Business Development Executive Sharon Humpoletz, Merchandiser Jessica Bennett, Marketing Assistant Operations Team David Hewitt, Operations Manager Denise Alborough, Senior Accounts Clerk Caroline Newman, Accounts Clerk Karen Ross, Accounts Clerk
SCAE COMMITTEES Frank Neuhausen (Germany), BWT water+more
Chahan Yeretzian (Switzerland), University of Zurich
Dale Harris (UK), HasBean
Lauro Fioretti (Italy), Nuova Simonelli
Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos (Greece), Coffee Island
Davide Cobelli (Italy), Coffee Training Academy 6 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Membership Committee Luigi Morello, Chair Yannis Apostolopoulos Andrew Tolley Dale Harris Tibor Varady David Veal Jackie Malone Education Committee Ludovic Maillard, Chair Yannis Apostolopoulos Paul Stack Ben Townsend Paul Meikle-Janney Edouard Thomas John Thompson Morten Münchow Panagiotis Konstantinopoulos Davide Cobelli David Veal Susan Hollins Annemarie Tiemes
SCAE COMMUNITY
Events Committee
SCAE Ambassadors
Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos, Chair Yannis Apostolopoulos Willem Huisman Grace O’Shaughnessy Anke Erichsen Brita Folmer Tibor Hajcsunk David Veal Garret Buckley Annemarie Tiemes
SCAE has named the following Past Presidents of the Association as its Ambassadors:
Marketing Committee Christina Meinl, Chair Yannis Apostolopoulos Johan Damgaard Dale Harris Maurizio Giuli Jörg Krahl David Veal James Humpoletz Audit Committee Nils Erichsen, Chair Yannis Apostolopoulos Mark Rose David Veal David Hewitt International Development Committee Alberto Polojac, Chair Yannis Apostolopoulos Mick Wheeler Colin Smith Angel Mario Martinez Garcia Inyoung Kim (Anna) Nick Watson Antony Watson David Veal Research Committee Chahan Yeretzian, Chair Morten Munchow, Vice Chair Yannis Apostolopoulos Frank Neuhausen Lauro Fioretti Edouard Thomas Antony Watson David Veal
OTHER SCAE ORGANISATIONS SCAE President’s Council President Paul Stack (Ireland) Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy) Vice President Christina Meinl (Austria) Treasurer Nils Erichsen (Germany) Executive Director David Veal (UK) Deputy Executive Director Yannis Apostolopoulos Drewry Pearson (Ireland)
Alf Kramer (Norway) Patrick Bewley (Ireland) Mick Wheeler (UK) Trygve Klingenberg (Norway) Tomasz Obracaj (Poland) Colin Smith (UK) Max Fabian (Italy) Nils Erichsen (Germany) Marc Käppelli (Switzerland) Drewry Pearson (Ireland) Cosimo Libardo (Italy) World Coffee Events (Jointly Owned By SCAE/SCAA) Chair - Marcus Boni SCAE Director - David Veal SCAA Director - Ric Reinhart Managing Director - Cindy Ludviksen Treasurer - Drewry Pearson
NATIONAL COORDINATORS EUROPEAN CHAPTERS AUSTRIA Günter Stölner, e: office@cimbali.at BELARUS Maryna Voskresenskaya, e: maryna.vaskrasenskaya@gmail.com BELGIUM Kathleen Serdons, e: kathleenserdons@gmail.com BULGARIA TBC CZECH REPUBLIC Stepan Neubauer, e: stepanneubauer@gmail.com DENMARK Lene Hyldahl, e: lenehyldahl@gmail.com FINLAND Viivi Ahtiainen, e: viivi.ahtiainen@gmail.com FRANCE Patrick Mas, e: mas-patrick33@orange.fr GERMANY Peter Muschiol, e: pm@muschiolconsulting.de GREECE Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos, e: info@coffeeisland.gr HUNGARY Gergely Boross, e: gergely.boross@gmail.com
ITALY Dario Ciarlantini, e: dario.ciarlantini@gmail.com LATVIA Martins Dzenis, e: martins@kcs.lv LITHUANIA Darius Vezelis, e: darius.vezelis@gmail.com NETHERLANDS Peter Eijl, e: peter@doppio-espresso.nl NORWAY Marit Lynes, e: info@kaffe.no PORTUGAL Claudia Pimentel, e: claudia.pimentel@aicc.pt POLAND Anna Oleksak, e: a.oleksak@kofibrand.bl ROMANIA Silvia Constantin, e: silvia@kiruna.ro RUSSIA Alexander Tsibaev, e: tsibaev@madian.su SERBIA Milos Stupar, e: milos.stupar.kistu@gmail.com SLOVAKIA Tomas Callo, e: cafe@dublincafe.sk SLOVENIA Gasper Trpin, e: gasper.trpin@romita.si SPAIN Miguel Lamora Bárcena, e: lamora.miguel@gmail.com SWEDEN John Dester e: john@dester.se SWITZERLAND Philip Henauer, e: Henauer@heanauer-kaffee.ch TURKEY Okan Turfanda, e: Okanturfanda@ravouna1906.com UNITED KINGDOM Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, e: dashwoodm@hotmail.com UKRAINE Roman Ponomarev, e: info_ponomarev@ukr.net
INTERNATIONAL CHAPTERS
ICELAND Njall Bjorgvinsson, e: cafenjall@gmail.com
SINGAPORE Ross Bright, e: ross.bright@spinellicoffee.com.sg
IRELAND Alan Andrews, e: alan@coffeeculture.ie
SOUTH KOREA Seongil Choi, e: sungilc@gmail.com CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 7
No.65 | Autumn 2016
SCAE
Café Europa is the magazine of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe, which is free to members of SCAE. Published quarterly, a digital edition is also available to view and download in the members’ lounge on the website, scae.com.
Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a company limited by guarantee registered in the United Kingdom, Co. Reg. No. 3612500. Copies of the SCAE by-laws are available by written request.
Publisher: Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) Editor: Sarah Grennan Art Director: Mark Nally Marketing Manager: James Humpoletz Advertising: Keith Amos Sub-Editor: Elizabeth MacAulay Contributors: Sonja Björk Grant, Hannah Davies, Chris Dobbs, Chisara Ehiemere, Hannah Giles, Susan Hollins, Danilea Linares, Hanna Neuschwander, Marc O’Sullivan, Matias Sauter, Colin Smith, Susie Spindler, David Veal, Antony Watson, Mick Wheeler Cover Illustration: Mark Nally © Copyright 2015, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe Café Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429 Café Europa (Digital) ISSN 1752-8437 EDITORIAL Articles and contributions by SCAE members are invited; please contact the Editor, Sarah Grennan e: cafeeuropa@scae.com t: +353 87 686 1272 ADVERTISING For information about advertising in Café Europa please contact Keith Amos, SCAE Business Development Executive e: keith@scae.com t: +44 1245 426060 The SCAE Media Pack is available for download on scae.com. SUBSCRIPTIONS The print and digital editions of Café Europa are free to members of SCAE. To join the Association please visit scae.com/members/join-scae.
SCAE, Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bicknacre, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, UK t: +44 1245 426060 | e: info@scae.com | w: scae.com Follow SCAE SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE_Community
SCAE_Community
SCAE_Community
SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE
This publication is produced for SCAE by Crimson Communications, crimsoncommunications.ie. Design by Odin Creative, odincreative.ie. Printing by Metro Commercial Printing, metroprinting.co.uk. Views expressed in Café Europa do not necessarily represent those of its Editor or the publisher, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of all information, SCAE and its agents accept no responsibility for any inaccuracies that may arise. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, including photocopying or storing by any electronic means, is prohibited without the prior permission of SCAE.
JOIN OUR COFFEE COMMUNITY Our vision is to be the authority on delivering coffee excellence. Our mission is to create and inspire excellence in the coffee community through innovation, research, education and communication. Our values are excellence, knowledge, leadership, integrity, communication, competence, education and community. Join us and help us raise coffee standards in Europe and across the world. Learn more about the benefits of membership at www.scae.com or email membership@scae.com
8 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
4,400 Members 33
National Chapters
7
World Championships
800
Authorised SCAE Trainers
570
Coffee Diplomas Awarded
67,000 Coffee Diploma System Certificates Issued
36,000 Certified Baristas 18
Years' Experience Inspiring Coffee Excellence
SIGNPOST
E F E F ! O C F O E T S A T L A E R E H T R FO
Perfect coffee from the only ECBC approved single cup brewer!
www.technivorm.com CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 9
UPDATE
Unified Speciality Coffee Association to Launch in 2017 The new, unified speciality coffee association – to be formed from the merger of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) with the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) – is set to launch in 2017. The unification of both organisations was given the official seal of approval by SCAA members in August when they voted in favour of merging with SCAE, after a month-long polling process. The vote follows the overwhelming endorsement of unification by the SCAE membership in May. ‘With such a strong mandate from SCAE members earlier this year, and now with this mandate from SCAA
members, we’re delighted to move forwards together to create a global future for speciality coffee on a local level,’ commented SCAE President, Paul Stack. ‘We would like to thank the SCAA members for their contribution to this process, and for making their voices heard over the future of their association and the wider speciality coffee community.’ The Boards and Executives of both associations are now working on the creation of the merged organisation, scheduled to launch in January 2017. Paul Stack explained: ‘Over the remainder of 2016 a great deal of planning and preparation work will
continue with both Boards of Directors, other volunteer leadership and executive staff to drive us forward to reach the stated vision to be an effective, dynamic, and authentic organisation that gives voice and substance to the possibilities for speciality coffee worldwide. We will continue to run as two separate organisations through the remainder of this year, as much focus is put on infrastructure and planning for a shared future.’ For updates on the SCAE/SCAA unification, please visit www.scae.com/unification. Queries relating to the unification process can be emailed to unfication@scae.com.
Book Your Stand at World of Coffee Budapest SCAE is bringing its flagship event to Eastern Europe for the first time next year, when World of Coffee takes place at Hungexpo, Budapest on 13-15 June. Following a successful launch at World of Coffee Dublin, where 71% of allocated exhibition space was quickly snapped up, less than a third of stand space is now available to book for the 2017 show. ‘We are looking forward to a fantastic event in Budapest next June when we will bring a 3,500sq.ft exhibition showcasing the very best of speciality coffee, no less than five exciting world
championships, Re:co Symposium and plenty more to the Hungarian capital,’ said SCAE Executive Director, David Veal. ‘World of Coffee is a celebration of speciality coffee, offering you a prime opportunity to engage with leaders and influencers in our community. It is an essential date for your diary in 2017.’ To book your stand at the 2017 show, please contact Margaret Andreucetti on +353 1 846 0020/margaret@ scae.com or Jens Thomsen +45 302 38775/j.thomsen@scae.com. For more information on exhibiting, please visit worldofcoffee-budapest.com.
Visit Coffee Origins with SCAE SCAE has announced plans to visit Mexico, Indonesia, Brazil and Ethiopia next year as part of its 2017 Field Trip programme. The trips, which are subject to change, include: January 2017 – Veracruz Region, Mexico July 2017 – East Java (Flores) and Bali, Indonesia
September 2017 – Brazil October 2017 – Sidamo Region, Ethiopia
‘Joining an origin trip will enable you to visit the coffee plantations and to see the cherries picked, then to follow the process through pulping, washing and drying, or to see the
10 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
natural drying process, resting, milling, grading and sorting, finally bagging and preparing for export. There will be lots of tasting, educational discussion and social integration,’ said SCAE Field Trip Coordinator, Colin Smith. To register your interest in the 2017 programme and to join the SCAE Field Trip mailing list, please email colin.smith@smithcoffee.co.uk.
Pictured at SCAE’s recent trip to Sumatra
UPDATE
Celebrate International Coffee Day
Big Crowds at First Athens Coffee Festival
The International Coffee Organization (ICO) is gearing up to host the second International Coffee Day on 1 October. A global celebration of coffee’s journey from bean to cup, International Coffee Day offers coffee businesses and professionals the opportunity ‘to honour the men and women who grow and harvest the coffee we love’, says the organisation. Over 70 events in 35 countries around the world were held to mark the inaugural International Coffee Day on 1 October 2015, and the ICO is calling on coffee lovers to grow the campaign further this year. To participate, visit internationalcoffeeday.org where you can download official logos, subscribe for updates and submit event details.
Over 25,000 coffee enthusiasts and professionals gathered at the inaugural Athens Coffee Festival in May, where they consumed more than 200,000 cups of coffee while attending 49 hours of seminars. The event, which was held at the city’s Technopolis venue and supported by the SCAE Hellas Chapter, attracted big name international speakers such as Graciano Cruz, Joseph Brodsky, Joerg Krahl and Enrico Meschini, with masterclasses and talks from a number of SCAE representatives, including Deputy Executive Director, Yannis Apostolopoulos; Education Field Manager, Annemarie Tiemes and SCAE Hellas Board Members, Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos, Kostas Kalafatas and Stavros Lambrinidi. Next year’s event has been booked for 30 September to 2 October. Visit athenscoffeefestival.gr to find out more.
Clarification Café Europa wishes to clarify that the ‘Cupper’s Guide to Panama’, which featured in the Summer 2016 issue of the magazine, was written by Willem Boot, Founder of Boot Coffee Campus and owner of Finca Sophia and Finca La Mula in Panama.
WITH BRITA PROFESSIONAL. Better water for your business – the ideal basis for great coffee and tea. Discover the difference now: www.brita.net
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 11
BARISTAS
Barista Camp is Back! Barista Camp returns this 10-13 October, when Barista Guild of Europe brings its flagship event to Pärnu, Estonia. BGE Chair, TIBOR VÁRADY, tells Café Europa about what’s in store.
Clockwise, from top: Tibor Várady, BGE Chair, participants at Barista Camp 2015, Estonia Resort where Barista Camp 2016 takes place
What is planned for Camp this year? Barista Camp is returning with all of the same amazing programme activities – such as engaging classes with inspirational ASTs (Authorised SCAE Trainers), group tastings and discussions to spark new ideas and learn from your peers – and not forgetting some crazy fun social activities to wind down after an intense day of learning. Who should attend? Baristas of all abilities. Camp is made a success by the tapestry of different people who attend from across Europe. Everyone who comes to camp leaves with some new knowledge or inspired idea about how to change their approach to work. Who will you meet? You will meet friendly and eager baristas from a wide range of backgrounds. You will also get the chance to chat with ASTs, speakers and the BGE Working Group. Why should you go? Many people say that attending camp is an experience that has a hugely positive impact on their career as a barista. You will meet so many cool people who you are likely to keep in touch with. Widening your network and increasing your coffee education helps baristas to progress with their career. 12 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
What can you learn? You can attend two foundation modules or one intermediate module from the SCAE Coffee Diploma System at camp and this year you can pick from Barista, Brewing, Green, Sensory and Roasting courses. You’ll also learn lots from the afternoon presentations on current topical issues within coffee. How can you convince your boss to give you the time off and/ or pay for the trip? You’ll have the opportunity to learn new and alternative methods and practices from other baristas, which you can bring back to the café where you work. Baristas who attend camp tend to represent the company that they work for, so you’re like an advert for their business! How much does it cost? There are a variety of different prices depending on SCAE membership, room preferences and your time of purchase. Ticket prices start at €595. Where can you book? Tickets are available at the Barista Guild of Europe website, baristaguildofeurope.com.
◆
@baristaguild_eu
baristaguildeurope
baristaguild_eu
SIGNPOST
*
1
DaVinci Gourmet French Vanilla outshone like-for-like competitor products to be hailed as the consumer preferred vanilla flavoured syrup. Using all natural flavours and ingredients, it’s a real french fancy.
# d e t vo preferred
consum
er
*Cambridge Direction research 2016
Introducing
DR:NK A NEW DIGITAL BEVERAGE PUBLICATION APP BY DAVINCI GOURMET
DaVinci GourmetEMEA
@DaVinci_Gourmet
davincigourmet_emea
www.davincigourmet.com
BROUGHT TO YOU BY Leading to Better
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 13
Unification:
What Happens Now?
It was a long wait over the summer months but this August, when members of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) voted yes like their peers in the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) before them, it paved the way for the unification of the two organisations. Now, following the conclusion of lengthy campaigns on both sides of the Atlantic and around the world, Café Europa asks ‘where do we go from here?’
14 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
COVER STORY
A
s this issue of Café Europa leaps off the press and into the post to members, SCAE’s leaders are gathering in London for a crucial board meeting. Top of the agenda will be the unification with SCAA, ratified by the memberships of both organisations this summer following lengthy – and at times contentious – debate. Played out on the airwaves of social media, the journey to amalgamating the world’s two largest and most powerful speciality coffee organisations hit a bump in the road with Brexit, and while SCAE members voted overwhelmingly in favour of unification in May, the SCAA vote was a nail-biter to the end, with even the most informed spectators hesitating to call the result in the lead up to the 5 August deadline. The referendum, as we now know, was carried when a majority of SCAA members took to the polls. ‘We are very pleased at the large turnout, over 56%, of the SCAA voting membership. It is critical for us to have the mandate that we received to move forward on addressing the key issues facing our industry and our
process,’ explains Yannis Apostolopoulos. ‘Over the remainder of 2016 a great deal of planning and preparation work will continue with both Boards of Directors, other volunteer leadership and executive staff to drive us forward to reach our stated vision. The first of the planning meetings takes place in September and you can follow updates on our progress via the SCAE and SCAA websites and both organisations’ social media channels.’ The completion of the unification process is separated into several parts, the first of which is the ‘closing’ – the signing of the Definitive Agreement and the formal transfer to the new association. ‘This part of the process we hope to have complete by 1 January 2017,’ says Yannis. ‘The remainder of the unification process will likely take a year or two to complete, as we work through the intricate detail of our current operational structure and realign our processes to best serve our global membership base. Details of these milestones will be revealed over the coming months as we move further through our planning meetings.’
‘There are myriad opportunities for the new association to deliver new content, new programmes, and new activities to a broader audience of engaged speciality coffee professionals. Look for us to continue with the best of each association, and to move quickly to innovate, improve and expand on the united base.’ members in a rapidly changing world,’ explains SCAA Executive Director, Ric Rhinehart. On the opposite side of the Atlantic, SCAE was equally enthused with the result. ‘Now with such a strong mandate from both SCAE and SCAA members we’re delighted to move forward together to create a global future for speciality coffee on a local level,’ notes Yannis Apostolopoulos, Deputy Executive Director of SCAE. What will unification mean for members? ‘We have already agreed on a joint vision which is to be an effective, dynamic, and authentic organisation that gives voice and substance to the possibilities for speciality coffee worldwide. In short, this means that we will increase value for members through more content, more benefits and more community activities while also promoting speciality coffee to the wider consumer audience in an effort to ensure a long and successful future for our industry,’ says Yannis. Ric concurs. ‘In the very near term most members will probably not notice any significant change in how they interact with the association. In the longer term, we will be able to deliver more value to our members through increased networking opportunities, a global education system, a more focused approach to research and an increased level of advocacy around critical issues that impact the sustainability of speciality coffee.’ While the merger will have a direct impact on SCAE and SCAA in their heartlands of Europe and the US and new frontiers in Asia, how will it affect the industry internationally? Christina Meinl, Vice President of SCAE, believes the global community can only benefit from the ‘joint positive energy’ that will be harnessed by the merger. ‘We will be able to improve education in the coffee world, conduct top-class research and investigate coffee knowhow and trends together.’ The unification is, says SCAA’s Ric Rhinehart, ‘the first concrete step in developing a voice for the international speciality coffee community. We will focus on creating the best possible environment for the speciality sector wherever we interact with coffee issues.’ The Next Steps With the motion carried, what happens now? ‘Now we will get to work on the next steps in this exciting
The process will not be rushed, advises Christina Meinl. ‘We will focus on bringing the two organisations together, making sure that our members and their interests are at the centre of all activities. We will diligently build the new organisation in a structured way, making sure to keep the best parts and further improve our offering. We know that some processes will take some time, but we would like to focus on quality rather than speed. We will take the time needed to complete unification in the best way possible.’ The new organisation will be built around six strategic pillars, she adds. ‘These will consist of Events, Research, Sustainability, Education, Advocacy and Membership, and they will be supported by the unified executive team which will remain housed in Chelmsford, UK and Santa Ana, California.’ While the name for the newly merged organisation is yet to be announced, what we do know is that the Global Operations Centre will be located in Europe. ‘This will enable us to continue communications and service with members in two major time zones and maintain our current high standard of delivering an excellent member experience,’ reveals Yannis. The structure of the Board will follow a similar format to the existing SCAE and SCAA Boards. While, for the first term, the Board of Directors will represent equal balance of both of the current associations, in the future the membership will once again elect the board members. A New Dawn The coming months will be pivotal for the new organisation. ‘There are myriad opportunities for the new association to deliver new content, new programmes, and new activities to a broader audience of engaged speciality coffee professionals,’ says Ric Rhinehart. 'Look for us to continue with the best of each association, and to move quickly to innovate, improve and expand on the united base. We recognise that a rapidly changing climate (both physical and economic) means that real threats to our industry must be confronted and we will be leaders in meeting these threats.’ A new world order is emerging in speciality coffee. Stay tuned to scae.com/unification and scaaunification.org for latest news and updates as the story unfolds over the remainder of the year. »
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 15
COVER STORY
Unification – The FAQs SCAE answers your frequently asked questions. For more, email unification@scae.com. 1. What are the next steps? SCAE and SCAA will continue to operate as two separate organisations for the time being. Meanwhile, both associations will be working with our independent consultants, Heart and Mind Strategies, to develop the Definitive Agreement which we will aim to have complete by the end of September. Following the completion of the Definitive Agreement, the two Boards of Directors will each review and ratify the document which will formally end the ‘Negotiation Phase’ and will move us into the ‘Transitional Phase’. We will also both be engaging in a collaborative strategic planning session that will take place in London, UK in September and will aim to set out the beginnings of an Operational Plan. 2. When will the two associations become one? Pending completion of the due diligence and a final ratification from both Boards of Directors, the two associations will officially become one on 1 January 2017. 3. Who are the people working on the next steps? The SCAE Board of Directors and the SCAA Board of Directors, led by a smaller Working Group that has equal representation from both Boards, along with representation from the consultants, Heart and Mind Strategies, as well as senior staff from both Executive Teams, will lead the discussions and planning for the newly formed unified association. 4. What changes to my current membership will I see over the coming months? In the short term, there will be no changes to your membership, or any of the other products or services offered by SCAE or SCAA. We will continue to offer our full range of member benefits for the remainder of 2016, and most likely into the beginning of 2017 as well, while we continue to work on making improvements and enhancements as we move forward with the newly formed unified association. 5. I’m a member of both SCAA and SCAE and my membership for either or both expires before January 2017, should I pay my renewal fees? If this is the case, please notify us by emailing membership@scae. com or membership@scaa.org. In order to remain a SCAE or SCAA member and to continue your current benefits, we strongly suggest that you renew your membership(s). 6. Are World of Coffee and Expo still planned for 2017? What about other events? All SCAE and SCAA events that are scheduled to take place during 2017 will still take place, including Expo, World of Coffee, Roasters Guild and Barista Guild events, and WCE Competitions such as World Barista Championship. In addition, major US 2018-2020 and European 2018-2019 conferences have signed contracts and remain unaffected. 7. What will happen to SCAE and SCAA educational programmes? The SCAE and SCAA leadership are committed to streamlining the two education programmes into one mutually beneficial system. Our aim is to either improve or maintain value at every step, for every participant. Exact details are being worked on by collaborative teams of SCAA and SCAE leaders including volunteer leaders and staff. If you are an AST (SCAE) or a Specialised Instructor (SCAA) and would like to contribute your thoughts and ideas to this process, please contact education@ scae.com or feedback@scaa.org accordingly. 16 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
8. What happens to the National Chapters? The National Chapters remain a major part of our plans for the future. We will continue to support our National Chapters with their events and other activities, while working on expanding our chapter network into new countries in the coming years. 9. I’m an AST. What happens to me? In the short term, your business will not be affected by unification, nor will the level of support you currently receive from SCAE Head Office. 10. How will this decision affect the World Championships and World Coffee Events? World Coffee Events was originally a joint venture of the two associations SCAA and SCAE to deliver feature events to the members and global coffee communities. For now, WCE will continue to manage their portfolio of events, including the World Barista Championship, World Latte Art Championship, World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship, World Brewers Cup, World Cup Tasters Championship and World Coffee Roasting Championship, while integrating into the events centre of the new organisation. The entire portfolio of all events between the organisations will be reviewed so that we can continue to deliver events that are meaningful to multiple member categories and also add value to new audiences 11. I voted ‘No’ to unification and opted to cancel my membership if it went ahead. What happens to my membership now? As a SCAE member, you will continue to receive your member benefits for the remainder of 2016. Despite your choice during the vote, we would hope to persuade you back to the newly formed unified association. If you have changed your mind about cancelling your membership, please notify us immediately so that we can ensure your membership will carry forward into the newly formed unified association. Similarly, if you are still not sure and would like more information before confirming that you are cancelling your membership, please contact us immediately so we can arrange for you to speak with a member of the Board of Directors. 12. I’m not a member yet. Should I wait until the two associations are unified before joining? We are still working on the membership offering for the newly formed unified association. We can confirm, however, that becoming a member now will guarantee that you will receive your benefits immediately and your membership fee will carry forward into the newly formed unified association for the first year. 13. How can I keep up to date with the progress? SCAE will be posting updates to www.scae.com/unification while SCAA will continue to post updates to www.scaaunification. org. Both associations will continue to communicate through email, Café Europa and the Chronicle, and you can also follow both associations across Facebook, Twitter and Instagram for live updates. 14. I have more questions. How can I find out more information? If the above web pages, social media channels and magazines do not provide the answers you’re looking for, SCAE members can email their questions to unification@scae.com, while SCAA members can email their questions to feedback@scaa.org.
◆
Ahlstrom compostable filter solutions combine the best results in cup with a great processability of the media. Whether capsule, pods or pouches, Ahlstrom has the solution.
GREAT TASTE with LESS WASTE CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 17
CUP OF EXCELLENCE
$120.00lb… The Rest of the Story SUSIE SPINDLER reports from auctions in Honduras, Costa Rica and Guatemala.
T
he specialty coffee sector gasped in disbelief when the first place Honduras Cup of Excellence winning coffee exceeded $120.00lb at the auction in June. Marysabel Caballero, with her exquisite first place coffee, was beside herself with delight. After a hard fought battle on the keyboard, Kasai Coffee, Maruyama Coffee and Toa Coffee of Japan came away victorious as the proud owners of the winner from La Puente farm. Japanese roasters have developed a demanding clientele for Cup of Excellence winners. This stunning price broke a long-standing Cup of Excellence auction record held by El Injerto and is in stark contrast to 15 years ago when Honduras coffees were primarily used as a base for flavouring and rarely got above C price. In addition, the average price for all of the winning coffees was well above any other Honduras auction at $15.56lb. Both second and third place coffees received over $30.00lb – a record as well. Amidst raucous excitement, and multicoloured confetti, the winning farmers watched the auction together in La Fe. Blaring horns greeted each higher bid. A surprised but ecstatic Miroslav Cuculiza was quoted as saying, ‘I came here to see $10.00lb and I am taking home $22.00lb.’ Since the volume of coffee sold at any Cup of Excellence auction is always miniscule in comparison to country production one might think that, while wonderful for a few farmers, these prices and the Cup of Excellence competition have little impact on the overall country. Think again. Cup of Excellence has literally put Honduras on the speciality coffee map. This year’s auction results will have a spillover effect in ways that make the auction premium seem small in comparison. Technoserve’s research has corroborated that the secondary benefits to a country holding a Cup of Excellence programme are huge. For Honduras, these benefits have come in the form of quality improvements, micro-regional recognition, new varietals (number one was a geisha), better husbandry and increased premiums for all speciality coffees. The farmers and the supporting Honduras coffee organisation (IHCAFE) have worked very hard at developing hand-crafted coffee. As Marysabel, who has built multiple roaster relationships from past COE programmes, indicated, ‘This has been an effort of many people, our farm workers, my husband and family, COE organisers, IHCAFE and all our buyers who trusted us since day one.’ Without Cup of Excellence in Honduras to jump start advances in proper harvesting and processing, identifying unknown quality and 18 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
rewarding farmers that really got it right, it is doubtful the leap into exemplary coffee would have been so fast and furious. Just like a smashed Olympic record inspires all athletes to push to the next level, these prices will inspire farmers. When what was formerly impossible becomes possible the excitement is palpable. Even the president of Honduras is planning a personal farm tour.
N
ot to be outdone by Honduras, the first place winning farmer in Costa Rica, Francisco Mena, was delighted at the almost $60.00lb and just shy of $90,000 paid for his 93+ scoring lot. In a Costa Rica magazine article, Francisco explains that he is a first-time farmer managing a large farm. He may not have personally won before, but his company, Exclusive Coffees, has represented multiple winners over the years and has pushed the limits of the relationship-building concept in Costa Rica through the Cup of Excellence programme. Experiencing another side of the competition and entering as a farmer, this coffee scored at least 90 points by every juror during the top 10 cupping – a rare feat. Costa Rica winners enjoyed an even greater average price of $17.35lb and added almost $600,000 to their coffers. Cup of Excellence has definitely shone a spotlight on the very creative micro-mills and the multiple types of honey coffees that are being produced. The competition may have also kindled a pulped natural and natural processing revolution in other Central American countries as younger buyers and cuppers realise they love their fruity sweetness and have requested farmers produce them. Costa Rica is certainly the experimental icon of Central America competitions and gets the award for the most unusual coffee on the cupping table. With huge cinnamon notes – even a slight cinnamon aroma in the green – this winning coffee was processed anaerobically and by adding extra pulp the mill has catapulted the possible flavours in coffee to an entirely new place. A press writer visiting during the top 10 cupping remarked that the coffee tasted like cinnamon apple pie. Controversy may surround this type of processing in the future for the competition; however, there is no denying the impact that taking third place with a 90+ score, followed by selling for $40lb, will have on others thinking about experimenting with unusual processing methods. Keep your eye on Costa Rica, this is just the beginning. At the Guatemala competition seven different varietals were awarded. Varietals such as Geisha, Bourbon, Mundo Novo, Caturra, Pacamara, Catuai and Pache gave the cuppers the opportunity to
CUP OF EXCELLENCE stretch their palates and judge the quality in the cup even if it was unexpected from this well-known speciality producer. The Guatemala auction garnered over $659,000 in gross auction proceeds bringing the three Central American programme results to over US$2m. The new ACE national winner platform successfully sold all of the coffees listed that did not quite make the 86 scoring cut off. Most of the national winning farmers that chose to list their coffees on this new platform sold the coffees at a price higher than they would have achieved if the platform had not been available. While prices for the national winners were well below the Cup of Excellence prices, it is expected that as this ACE programme becomes permanent many more speciality roasters will recognise the value of these coffees and the convenience of buying quality coffees that have already been scored, vetted and milled to top speciality coffee standards and will add them to their exemplary Cup of Excellence line up.
W
hen Cup of Excellence began in 2001, the expectation was that winners would come mostly from well-known Antigua; however, thanks to Cup of Excellence, other regions such as Acatenango, Huehuetenango, El Progresso, Chimaltenango, Jalapa and San Marcos are now being recognised, along with dozens of new varietals. How the marketplace will react to this year’s winners is still unknown, but if the number of last minute bidders registering for the auction is any indication, this auction should also prove to be highly successful.
Some newer, younger roasters question the relevancy of this programme that has been around for over 15 years. While the industry has certainly changed in the ensuing decade, nothing compares to the scrutiny the competition puts on winning coffees. The jury experience is still completely unmatched in its education and enlightenment, where international cuppers and farmers start the week out as strangers and come together as a unique coffee family. There is still no better way to discover the thousands of incredible coffees blended away or sold at a price well below their worth and there is no easier map for buyers to find the undiscovered gems so valuable to their businesses. Sons and daughters of Cup of Excellence long-time national cuppers, buyers and even winning farmers are now cupping with unimaginable skill, producing experimental and unique coffees; and some are now experiencing the jury and the auction for the first time. These are truly the next generation – the ones that will command the future of speciality coffee and Cup of Excellence. The passion and energy coming in to the industry will ensure that what now seems impossible will be both possible and real.
◆
SUSIE SPINDLER is Founder and Executive Director of the Alliance for Coffee Excellence. allianceforcoffeeexcellence.org @cupofecxellence CupOfExcellence cupofexcellence
DISCOVERING & ENHANCING EXCELLENCE The Alliance for Coffee Excellence (ACE) is a membership organisation. Its mission to ‘Discover Excellence, Enhance Excellence and Reward Farmers That Produce Excellence’ is made possible by the support of the global speciality coffee industry. ACE works in partnership with many coffee organisations, including a long-time formal partnership with SCAE. For more information about ACE, its programme, the winning farmers and the upcoming programmes log on to allianceforcoffeeexcellence.org, email support@cupofexcellence.org or tel: +1 503 208 2872.
via Caboto, 31 34147 Trieste Italy info@demus.it www.demus.it CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 19
COFFEE ECONOMICS
Big Challenges for Smallholders
Mick Wheeler
Is smallholder coffee growing in jeopardy? MICK WHEELER examines the trend towards more capital-intensive farming and the impact it will have on the speciality coffee industry.
I
n most producing countries coffee is a relatively easy crop to grow. It is not agronomically demanding; nor does it require a high level of skill in its processing and handling, although the increasing demand for coffee of a consistently high quality, including speciality, does require a higher level of sophistication in the processing, grading and general post-harvest handling of the crop. Nevertheless, the durability of the dried parchment or cherry coffee and of the further processed green bean makes it a relatively easy crop to store and to transport. As a result, coffee is ideally suited to smallholder cultivation. Although there is no universally recognised definition of a smallholder, it is generally accepted that more than half the world’s coffee is produced on farms of less than five hectares. However, it is debateable whether most smallholders grow coffee out of
Furthermore as a general rule – but there are a number of notable exceptions – smallholder coffee farming practices tend to be sub-optimal, because smallholders lack access to the most upto-date technical expertise, as well as other improved inputs such as high yielding varieties, fertilisers, pesticides and, where necessary, irrigation. Many smallholder coffee growers farm in remote locations creating serious problems of lack of access to markets and most rely on unpaid family labour. They generally lack clear title to land, or other forms of collateral, or indeed have any sort of credit history, as well as lacking the necessary financial literacy. Consequently access to credit is virtually impossible, especially for longer-term commercial loans. As a result most smallholder coffee growers who farm small plots are tied into a low input/low output mode of production and thus are more vulnerable to risk than larger
Make no mistake, the proportion of world coffee output produced by smallholders will continue to decline. The rise of capital-intensive coffee production brings implicit danger for the speciality coffee industry. Evidence suggests that there is a very real risk that this may be accompanied by a significant loss of diversity. choice, for in most cases smallholder farmers end up planting coffee because there is no other viable alternative available to them. And coffee growing, like many other agricultural enterprises in developing countries, is a very risky business, which frequently ties many small growers into poverty. The situation is made even worse by the fact that smallholder coffee growers are at the bottom end of the value chain and as such only receive the residual price – that is, what is left after all other sectors and middlemen have taken their cut. Smallholder coffee growers are, therefore, price takers, in that their power to negotiate prices is limited, primarily because the volume that they individually have to sell is small and, worse still, its availability is irregular. But the disadvantages they endure do not end there, as they also suffer what is often termed ‘information asymmetries’, i.e. they lack the knowledge of up-to-date market conditions, especially current prices, and thus they are usually totally reliant on what the buyers tell them. Smallholders can overcome some of these impediments by banding together in producer organisations, but, while many such organisations are shining examples of what can be achieved, unfortunately some are inefficient and worse still, a few are corrupt. In addition, smallholders tend to be widely dispersed geographically, making aggregation of any kind problematic. 20 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
farmers, who generally have better access to higher productive inputs and technical expertise, as well as the necessary credit to finance such improvements. It has to be said, however, that this has not gone unnoticed and much of the development aid directed towards the coffee industry has been targeted at alleviating and improving the conditions of small growers. But, while this is welcome, the fact is that smallholder coffee growing in many countries is in decline. Smallholder coffee growers are getting old and young people are not attracted into an industry which they can clearly see is suffering from a serious lack of investment, exemplified by small plots, an aging senile tree stock and inefficient farming practices, which continue to be labourintensive. Whether we want to hear it or not, the reality is that the future of coffee farming is capital-intensive on larger plots, for there is no doubt that there is a minimum farm size below which coffee farming will never be profitable. The sooner we recognise this and start to ease the transition, the better. Such a transition has been the hallmark of all modern agriculture and coffee – although somewhat of a laggard in this respect – will not be able to resist the inevitable march towards its high-tech future. This is already well advanced in Brazil and in a few other countries.
COFFEE ECONOMICS
O
ne of the problems in achieving this is that our industry continues to romanticise small coffee growers, seeing this as a noble way of life, rather than one that condemns the grower to a life of poverty. This promotion of the small growers’ way of life is often reinforced by using images of the farmers and their families on the packets of many coffee brands, including many speciality coffee brands, which is, quite frankly, patronising. Ostensibly this is said to show the link back to the farm, but the reality is that, together with the various certification schemes, this is a way of making the consumer feel that his act of purchase is an act of charity. Growers, big or small, deserve better. They should be rewarded for producing good quality coffee and not be seen as a subject for charity. So the big question is: ‘Does the trend towards more capitalintensive farming mean that smallholders are a thing of the past?’ No, the truth is that their demise is far from imminent, for as stated at the beginning of this column, coffee is the perfect smallholder crop and nothing is going to change that. But make no mistake, the proportion of world coffee output produced by smallholders will continue to decline. And although I believe we should not mourn this decline, I am conscious of the implicit danger for the speciality coffee industry that the rise of capital-intensive coffee production brings. The evidence suggests that there is a very real risk that this may be accompanied by a significant loss of diversity. Indeed, we are already seeing this. Over the last 20 years we have witnessed a noticeable increase in the production of naturals or dry processed coffees – a process which readily lends itself to capital intensive farming practices – while production of washed coffees has remained stagnant in volume terms and thus in decline as a proportion of world output. Production of washed coffees in 199596 amounted to 40.32 million bags or 41.4% of total production that year, while in 2015-16 production of washed coffees totalled 41.3 million bags, or just 28.8% of world production. Although the decline in smallholder production is inevitable, the loss of production diversity need not be. We in the industry must do all we can to make sure that all forms of production remain profitable and attractive, and this means helping small growers see their coffee plots as profitable business ventures rather than an adjunct to their subsistence way of life. Therein lies the problem, however, for in order to be profitable, growers must devote more of their land to coffee. Small plots are never going to be economically viable or, for that matter, sustainable. History shows that the transition from a smallholder agricultural system to a capital-intensive farming system is always accompanied by the aggregation of small plots into larger tracks of land. This is what has happened with practically every single agricultural crop grown in industrialised countries. However, the downside of this transition was the creation of a landless poor who ultimately found work in the newly emerging factories of the early industrial
age. Today with the advance of labour-saving technology, such opportunities (if you can call them that) are not so readily available, so the challenge is how to encourage aggregation without creating a new class of landless and, worse still, jobless poor. There have been some initiatives that give cause for limited encouragement. For example in Papua New Guinea in the 1980s there was a major project aimed at encouraging small growers to aggregate their land into larger, 20 hectare blocks. Once these blocks were formed, part-time outside managers were employed to oversee and supervise the development of these mini-plantations. Around 100 such blocks were developed, but only approximately 40 survive to the present day. So yes, it was a movement in the right direction, but it was hardly an overwhelming success. A more recent initiative encourages both donor agencies and smallholder farmers to see their smallholding as a diversified agricultural business, rather than just a coffee plot. The hope is that by concentrating on improving management and business skills, as well as on financial literacy, subsistence farmers will be able to manage their resources and risk by growing a variety of crops, including coffee, more efficiently, so that the unit, taken as a whole, is viable. Nevertheless, this still demands that the farmer has access to a plot of land big enough to provide him and his family with a reasonable living. Unfortunately this is not the case everywhere and thus the almost constant migration of the rural poor into towns and cities will, alas, continue. It looks, therefore, as though most smallholder coffee growers face a bleak future and the inevitable march of progress means that many will be forced to leave the land and migrate to the cities. But the development of cooperatives and other forms of aggregation means that this is not the future for every smallholder coffee grower. Those who are able to collaborate with their neighbours and others to farm bigger farms and employ more capital intensive techniques will have a viable future in coffee farming. There is also a small and – and I mean small – glimmer of hope for those that leave, in that some may be able to find work in a service industry which is beginning to expand in many producing countries. Governments and industry are slowing waking up to the potential that domestic coffee consumption offers to the economy of many origins. It is a labour-intensive industry and one that we in the industry can play a big part in developing. SCAE already runs various barista and brewing skills training courses in different origins – a small acorn, perhaps! But it is at least something positive in the face of a significant challenge.
◆
MICK WHEELER is an agricultural economist, specialising in tropical commodities, particularly coffee and cocoa. A SCAE Ambassador and former SCAE Executive Director, he is the Overseas Representative of the Papua New Guinea Coffee Industry Corporation and serves as Papua New Guinea's Permanent Representative to the International Coffee Organization (ICO). CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 21
PARTNERS
Supporting The Next Generation of Coffee Farmers Building on its strong legacy of community-based development, Coffee Kids is focusing on youth entrepreneurship in its first year of renewed activities, writes CHISARA EHIEMERE.
C
offee Kids relaunched in November 2015 with a new focus on giving young men and women attractive opportunities to stay in coffee. Since then we have had many conversations with companies and organisations in the coffee sector and found there is widespread concern about who will grow coffee in the future. There is also a lot of interest in figuring out what can be done and how to get involved. It can be hard to process that the sector we are all so proud to belong to is not seen as an attractive option for many young people who have grown up on coffee farms. They have grown up seeing the realities of being a smallholder farmer firsthand, the high prices and the lows, the lean months that come after harvest and they know how sharing their parents’ land with their siblings impacts the amount of land that they stand to inherit.
While we have talked about the issues of coffee farming, and why many young people may want to leave, we must not forget that there are also young people who see a future for themselves in agriculture too. This is the case for many of the participants in the programme in Tanzania. They are excited about agriculture – they have grown up with it and they understand it. What they are looking for is training to help them both approach agriculture as a business, and to also understand how to extend that newly acquired business knowledge into other business endeavours that allow them to earn year-round income. An example is that if you are already a coffee farmer (using family land), you can extend your agricultural knowledge to also growing other crops with faster turnover on rented land, or finding ways to become a service provider for farmers in your
Even with these realities, we know that there are ways to stay in coffee while diversifying, increasing and stabilising income. We are helping young people do this by assisting them to create rural businesses. We support them through a combination of entrepreneurial training, business mentoring and the provision of seed capital to start their rural businesses. Coffee Kids just launched our rural business workshops in the Leguruki Ward of Arusha in Tanzania, working with three groups of young men and women from the area. Tanzania, and the rest of Sub-Saharan Africa, is experiencing a youth bulge with more young people entering the workforce than can be supported through wage-earning jobs. Many young people have the desire to leave rural areas to go to the city, believing that they will be able to find a job that pays a steady wage. Some will be able to do that, while many others will fall into the unfortunate situation of being in a city, piecing together a living, or forced to return to rural areas. Unemployment is higher in many cities than it is in many rural areas in coffee-growing countries of East Africa. If the coffee sector can make coffee growing financially attractive, we can help young people avoid these situations.
area for transport or selling inputs. Thinking through the numbers, the marketing, and customer service aspects of providing these services takes training. The two other aspects of our programme – seed capital to start the business and matching with mentors to give feedback and support – are supports that the participants are interested in. While there are definitely role models in the community for coffee, the participants may have not had a relationship with these role models, or they may have a business idea that is distinct from coffee production that will require expertise from someone outside of the immediate surroundings. We are excited to be able to work with these creative and industrious minds, and look forward to sharing more with the coffee community about what we are learning from our work with young men and women.
22 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
◆
CHISARA EHIEMERE is Programme Director of Coffee Kids. To find out more about the programme and how you can support it, please visit coffeekids.org. @coffeekids
coffeekids1988
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 23
SCAE Switzerland
CHAPTER FOCUS
Café Europa sat down for a chat with PHILIPP HENAUER and DANIEL HOFSTETTER of the Swiss Chapter at World of Coffee Dublin.
Swiss Barista Champion, Mathieu Theis, competes in the national final. Image: Adrian Huber
Philipp Henauer and Daniel Hofstetter, pictured at World of Coffee Dublin
So what’s going on with the Swiss Chapter? Philipp: A lot! We have a new board and a lot of new members involved. There is a younger generation coming into the Chapter. Daniel: Long-standing members, like Heinz Trachsel, have done a great job bringing us this far. Everyone along the line came from Heinz – he is a great recruiter!
and they are helping us engage with potential members in this area. We’re redesigning the website with French content, and our news section will run in French and German. We hope this will help us grow our membership in the French-speaking areas of the country. Philipp: We plan to run more events in the region too and we’re looking at hosting the next Brewers Cup there. Our competitions are run in different locations across the country – the Cup Tasters Championship will be held in Basel, the Coffee in Good Spirits Championship in Bern, the Barista Championship and Latte Art Championships will be held in Zurich and the Brewers Cup will hopefully be held in Basel also. This offers us a great opportunity to reach out to new people in the speciality coffee industry.
How are you opening SCAE Switzerland to a new audience? Daniel: We’re finally bridging the gap to the French-speaking part of Switzerland, which is very important. We have four languages in Switzerland – German, French, Italian and Romansh – which presents its challenges. Up until now the French community was quite an isolated coffee scene, but we have two French ASTs (Authorised SCAE Trainers) and a couple of corporate members
24 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
CHAPTER FOCUS Are you hoping to grow your membership in the future? Philipp: Yes, as we interact more with the French part of the country, we’re hoping for double-digit growth. Daniel: We think there is potential to attract 30 to 50 new members. We have a lot of corporate members and our strategy now is to grow the membership in colleges and speciality coffee shops. What new initiatives have you launched? Philipp: We’re interacting with hospitality schools and colleges to try and engage apprentices. In February we ran a junior barista competition exclusively for apprentices in collaboration with a local school in the eastern part of the country. Daniel: It’s a great opportunity to get noticed and we’re focused on education. It makes us more relevant. Historically, Swiss baristas have performed strongly at the World Championships. What makes you so competitive? Daniel: Compared to other markets our size we do not have a very highly developed speciality café environment. What we do have, however, is a strong chapter with a high level of education. Our knowledge is quite high and as a result, our baristas do quite well internationally. How would you describe the Swiss coffee industry? Philipp: The scene is more mainstream with a big influence from Italy. Daniel: I would consider us a fully-automatic country. We are famous for our superior fully-automatic machines. Philipp: More or less all of the big green bean buyers are located in Switzerland too.
business with all the rules and regulations. It is almost impossible to have a roaster in coffee shops with the laws on emissions. Why should coffee professionals in Switzerland join SCAE? Philipp: It’s a good place to exchange ideas and knowledge and interact with people in coffee. Daniel: When you join SCAE you can automatically get in touch with the right people. It’s like one big family where you can network with others. What is your mission for 2017? Daniel: Our goal is to grow the competitions. We would really like to get new competitors to enter. With all the international coffee events, there is a high awareness of the competitions now. Philipp: We’re very excited about the next year. The Barista and Latte Art Championships are being held downtown in Zurich in a really nice club. It’s going to be really cool. The third wave has been talked about a lot in the media and there is a lot of interest in speciality coffee right now.
◆
swissscae.ch
@scaeschweiz
swissscae
MEET THE TEAM: SCAE SWITZERLAND COMMITTEE National Coordinator: Philipp Henauer Membership & Marketing: Barbara Held Communications: Daniel Hofstetter Education: Benjamin Hohlmann Science & Research: Chahan Yeretzian Championships: André Kissling
What challenges do coffee businesses face in Switzerland? Philipp: Zurich has some of the most expensive rents in the world – the cost per square metre kills you. Daniel: And thereAd is very tight regulation. It’s tough to30/11/2015 open a new 9510 Cafe Europa (125x185) AW.qxp_125x185mm 14:44 Page 1
EVERPURE
COFFEE THE WAY IT’S SUPPOSED TO BE PENTAIR Foodservice is the largest water filtration, water treatment and beverage dispense equipment manufacturer to the global foodservice industry. Our dedication to providing you with effective, smart solutions is evident in all our products. Visit our website to discover more.
FOODSERVICE
www.pentairfoodservice.eu
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 25
RESEARCH
DOES QUALITY SELL ITSELF? Research undertaken by Copenhagen University shows that consumer preference for quality and the ability to detect quality are far from clear-cut. ANTONY WATSON reports.
O
ur unquenchable thirst for speciality coffee means that the range of exceptional or premium quality coffees now on offer has never been as diverse. And so is the bewildering pace at which new products and developments in the coffee industry are eagerly brought to market – all in pursuit of our quest for the highest quality in the cup. Meanwhile consumers are becoming much more demanding in their buying preferences as awareness around coffee as a culinary product continues to grow, coupled with rising expectations around quality and consistency. Although it is well documented that brand and price are motivating factors in our buying decisions, how does our perception of quality actually play a role – and can the average consumer genuinely tell the difference between high and lowquality coffee? This is not only a question for coffee drinkers but for the wider coffee profession as a whole where quality is regarded as a multidimensional concept comprising both objective and subjective considerations. Research has shown that consumers generally ascribe food quality to four basic characteristics, namely; • Sensory quality (e.g. taste, flavour and other sensory attributes) • Healthiness
26 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
• Convenience • Processing or commercial aspects (e.g. organic certification or specific models of trade). Whereas most discussions by coffee professionals around quality will also adhere to physical and chemical properties or common standards. Objectively assessing quality is not a trivial matter and even major bodies such as the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) and America (SCAA) or the International Coffee Association (ICO) still lack an exact definition of what we mean by quality. This is why the science of sensory evaluation, usually conducted by trained experts – or ‘cuppers’ – is a very important part of determining a coffee’s quality. Most grading systems in the industry are based on their sought-after opinion, which is called upon for pricing, quality control and product development. In a bid to develop some further clarity around this, Copenhagen-based coffee consultancy, CoffeeMind, has proposed a framework of quality indicators to give a pragmatic characterisation of speciality coffee. Here, quality is practically assessed at the green bean, roasting, brewing and tasting stage to determine whether the coffee falls into ‘speciality’ or ‘commodity’ categories: »
Pioneers in the speciality coffee industry, offering Nationwide service and solutions
Mulmar is a market leader in the supply, installation, maintenance and service of espresso coffee machines and bean grinders. Our years of accumulated knowledge and expertise can also be drawn upon to consult, specify, deliver and install bespoke design solutions. Our in house designers can create turnkey design solutions for bars, restaurants, kitchens, cafés, delis and specialist commercial catering facilities. We have a national sales and service team that covers the UK and Ireland We are proud to be the UK importer for some of the largest & most innovative espresso coffee machine and food services manufacturers in the world
www.mulmar.com +44 (0) 845 688 5282 Mulmar Foodservice Solutions Inspiration House, 152 Great North Road,
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 27
RESEARCH STAGE Green coffee
QUALITY INDICATOR Absence of defects (broken beans, fungal infection, insect damage, foreign matter, size variation etc.)
Roasting
Evenly developed roasted coffee, absence of roasting defects, slow roast rather than quick ‘flash’ roast
Brewing
Brewing at 20% extraction of 60g/litre rather than 30% extraction of 30g/litre
Tasting
Sensory (analytical and/or hedonic) evaluation can be performed to evaluate quality. SCAA’s hedonic cupping scoring form is the most widely used tool in the coffee industry.
Retail
Price can be used as an indicator of quality
Table 1: CoffeeMind framework of quality indicators Field Experiment In order to better understand the gap between the speciality coffee community’s consensus around quality and subjective consumer preference, a team of behavioural economic researchers at Copenhagen University carried out a simple study which has revealed some surprising results. Their aim was to investigate whether quality, as defined from an ‘objective’ coffee industry perspective, actually aligns with consumers’ ‘subjective’ perceptions and overall preference. The researchers’ chosen benchmark was a blind taste test involving more than 200 consumers who were asked to evaluate two coffees based primarily on their sensory perception. Consumers were asked to correctly differentiate between the quality of two coffees and indicate their preference for either low or high-quality. Although extrinsic factors such as pricing were not part of the test, the researchers decided to introduce an incentive to increase the validity of the results. Using a stand with a ‘free coffee’ sign placed in a busy walking area to attract passers-by, consumers were offered a free cup of their preferred sample if they could correctly identify which one was the more expensive of the two.
no information about the coffee samples was disclosed to the participants. After consumers tasted both samples and indicated which one they preferred, it was revealed to them that one of the coffees they had just tasted was substantially more expensive than the other. They were then asked to identify which one they thought was the more expensive and, if they answered correctly, they received a full cup of the coffee that they had just indicated as their first preference. Results It was expected that the majority of consumers would be able to tell which coffee was of the highest quality, and, those that could, would prefer the coffee to the low-quality sample. Surprisingly, the results showed a very different picture. Only half of the participants (52.7%) were able to correctly identify the high-quality sample as being the more expensive of the two (see table 2). Interestingly, half of those who correctly detected the high-quality coffee still chose the low-quality sample as their preferred choice. Of those who could differentiate quality, however, there was a tendency towards preferring the higher quality coffee. QUALITY DETECTION
PREFERENCE High-quality sample
Low-quality sample
Total
Correct
27.8% (57)
24.9% (51)
52.7% (108)
Not correct
18.5% (38)
28.8% (59)
47.3% (97)
Total
46.3% (95)
53.7% (110)
100% (205)
Table 2: Results of the blind taste test Overall, the results show that consumer preference for quality and the ability to detect quality are far from clear-cut. The participants were generally not able to reliably assess coffee quality, or even the quality difference between the two coffee samples despite there being a large difference in intrinsic quality from an ‘expert’ or industry perspective.
The research findings suggest that consumers may experience coffee as ‘just coffee’ – a mere commodity with little room for differentiation. Moreover, if consumers do not experience any sensory benefits from drinking high-quality coffee, they may be reluctant to pay a premium price for such products. The low-quality sample was a pre-ground coffee rated at 65 points in the SCAA scoring system. From a coffee professional perspective, this coffee was under-dosed and over-extracted which is typical for low-quality coffee. By contrast, the high-quality sample had a rating of 83 points on the SCAA scale and ground just before the brewing process for maximum preservation of the volatile aromas. The brew was also calibrated to comply with the Golden Cup Standard, which is designed to uphold the highest standard for coffee excellence. Blind Taste Test ‘To Go’ The experiment was carried out at one of Copenhagen’s major train stations, Nørreport, over a full day. As participants approached, a researcher introduced them to the broad topic of the experiment, and noted their age and gender. Participants received two small 20ml samples of black coffee – one high and one low-quality – and were asked to taste and indicate which of the samples they preferred. In order to gain an unbiased measurement of their coffee preferences solely based on the flavour of the coffee alone,
28 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Conclusion Contrary to the research team’s expectations, the field experiment showed that participants performed no better than a 50/50 chance of guessing the correct differentiation between two samples that were widely different in quality. Since price considerations were also absent in the blind taste test, the team concluded that perceived quality in isolation is not a strong driver in consumer preferences. In other words, quality does not necessarily sell itself from a broad consumer perspective. However, the research does acknowledge that preference might be more related to familiarity, rather than to quality. For example, the low-quality sample might actually be closer, in terms of flavour, to the coffee that consumers are used to. Since sensory preferences are mostly learned from repeated exposure, the low-quality sample might have been preferred because its sensory profile was closer to expectations than the high-quality sample offering more complex, and potentially unfamiliar flavours. This implies that, although a consumer might be able to recognise the higher quality from a perceptual point of view, they might nonetheless prefer the more familiar of the two.
CE53 Direct Trade v_02FIN 13-05-13_Cafe Europa 15/05/2013 07:29 Page 23
RESEARCH Finally, the research team also suggests that the results may have been influenced by the experimental conditions of the study – especially as participants were incentivised with a free cup to-go of their preferred coffee at the end of the blind taste test. As the drinking of a beverage ‘on the go’ is a form of consumption that does not encourage an appreciation of the sensory attributes of the coffee but rather its functional properties, they conceded that a low-quality coffee may be more ‘situationally appropriate’ for consumption on the move than the more flavourful high-quality coffee. Bridging the Quality Gap The findings of the research offer up some very interesting insights for consumers and coffee professionals alike. It shows that consumers may not have the learned sensory skills to make fully informed decisions on quality alone – but are more likely to rely on external cues such as price, packaging and brand associations – which may, or may not, reflect the intrinsic quality of the product. The findings also demonstrate that current sensory grading systems such as the SCAA hedonic grading scale are poor predictors of the way that the product is experienced by a large number of consumers. In fact, the study interprets the discrepancy between the consumer preferences and industry scoring systems as a potential hedonic disagreement between both groups. To a large extent, the research findings suggest that consumers may experience coffee as ‘just coffee’ – a mere commodity with little room for differentiation. Moreover, if consumers do not experience any sensory benefits from drinking high-quality coffee, they may be reluctant to pay a premium price for such products. Nevertheless, the study does highlight the fact that consumers who are better at identifying quality differences are also more likely to prefer high-quality coffee, suggesting that better sensory skills do increase appreciation of quality. In many ways, the speciality coffee industry has already made great efforts to help improve the level of sensory literacy amongst consumers. For example,
the Taster’s Flavor Wheel (Counter Culture Coffee 2013) and the new SCAA Flavor Wheel, accompanied by the World Sensory Lexicon (World Coffee Research, 2016), aim at establishing a common vocabulary for communicating coffee flavour and sensory attributes that is applicable to coffee professionals within the industry, as well as enhancing the sensory understanding of consumers. Coffee scientist and founder of CoffeeMind, Morten Münchow, who was part of the research group, says that the study highlights the existing gap between industry standards around quality and consumer preference. He recommends that future research should look into developing grading systems that are truly correlated with the way consumers can actually appreciate such quality standards. He concludes: ‘In order for high-quality coffee to be fully appreciated, we need to look to other product categories, such as wine, who use tools that have been widely instrumental in enhancing public understanding on food tasting and terminology. There is an opportunity here for the speciality coffee community to introduce consumers to the next stage in their sensory literacy in an accessible way rather than exposing them to something that is completely different from their own understanding. Quality should and can sell itself, but only as long as we continue to engage with our customers in a way that encourages a shared language that narrows the divide between expert sensory evaluation and broader consumer preference.’
◆
This research was submitted for publication in the British Food Journal. Authors: Davide Giacalone, The Department of Technology and Innovation, University of Southern Denmark; Toke Reinholt Fosgaard of the Department of Food and Resource Economic, University of Copenhagen; Coffee scientist and founder of CoffeeMind, Morten Münchow; Industrial Ph.D. student Ida Steen, University of Copenhagen and CoffeeMind. To view the original article online at the British Food Journal, please visit dx.doi.org/10.1108/BFJ-03-2016-0127
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Coffee
Analysis, consulting, courses and R&D on coffee
COMPANY WITH QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM CERTIFIED BY DNV
= ISO 9001:2008 =
…we can tell you Our experienced technicians and researchers, working in our up-to-the-minute physical and chemical analysis laboratory, can provide a quality reference point for the world of coffee. Demus Lab’s knowhow doesn’t only give you the means to perfect your roasting, grinding and packing. In fact, Demus Lab can help you improve all the stages of your production cycle, and our research into the most fragrant and aromatic new blends can boost the quality of your product, too. Thanks to our wide network of coffee experts, we can offer complete training, from selecting the best green coffee and achieving the ideal coffee tastes, to custom-designed courses on espresso tailored to specific client needs. In short, Demus Lab has the best answers to all your questions about coffee.
Area Science park - ed.E3 Padriciano 99 - 34012 Trieste tel. +39 0403755466 fax +39 0403755467 info@demuslab.it www.demuslab.it
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 29
SIGNPOST
ROASTERS UNITE SCAE LAUNCHES ROASTER GUILD OF EUROPE A new network dedicated to supporting Europe’s roasting community launched at World of Coffee Dublin. SONJA BJÖRK GRANT introduces the new Roaster Guild of Europe.
30 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
ROASTERS
C
offee has slowly changed over the years, from an industry once focused on selling a mainstream product to one which now prides itself on the story of coffee’s journey, from seed
to cup. But while there is much support for baristas, until now there has been less education and networking available to roasters. Although there are many theories about roasting, very few have been based on studies that roasters can learn from. Most roastmasters have come to their own conclusions about what is best for their coffee and their customers – sometimes by asking, other times by just assuming. The third wave of coffee shops and the coffee championships have highlighted the importance of a strong professional network. Being inspired, transparent and open to sharing knowledge prompts more questions regarding roast profiles, quality control and the art of making the character of the bean shine.
And so enters the Roaster Guild of Europe. Launched by SCAE this year, we want to look to the future and learn what we can do better. The changes over recent years have delivered more transparency and cooperation with producers at origin and more communication from the roastery, through to the barista and on to the consumer. Machinery and equipment for quality control have developed so consistency has improved. Micro-roasteries have been established worldwide, and the outcome is that we now have a new generation of roastmasters. In addition, over the last 10 to 15 years, many baristas have embarked on a roasting path – either roasting in their coffee shop or working closely with local roasters. This has encouraged more questions and debates about roasting and profiles and, as brewing methods have changed, these questions have grown in volume. Unfortunately, it is common for roastmasters to closely guard their secrets. They have learned the hard way, so many have been unwilling to share. We believe that this will change with Roaster Guild of Europe. It will provide a platform and an open space where roasters can come together and learn from one another. The Guild will have an important role in networking and sharing knowledge in our industry, which, in turn, will help to improve the quality and output of this new generation of roastmasters. It will support roastmasters in Europe to grow, to be inspired, and to network. And in the end everybody will win – the roastmaster will have more fun and self-confidence in their daily roasting, the consumer will be drinking better coffee, and the farmer will be happy that his coffee was not ruined in the roasting process.
Creating a New Learning Platform When Yannis Apostolopoulos, now SCAE Deputy Executive Director, and Cosimo Libardo, Past President of SCAE, first approached me and asked for my thoughts on creating an educational event specifially for roasters I was thrilled. Barista Guild of Europe had just been launched and it was abundantly clear that we also needed to create a platform for roastmasters to grow and share knowledge. I was excited that this could bring change and lead to more transparency in the chain, from seed to cup. Inspired by the successs of other platforms for education within the community, we decided to create Roaster Camp – a place where speciality roasters can congregate and progress. To gather the working group which has led the development of Roaster Guild of Europe was easy. The personal network I had developed through events such as the championships, Nordic Barista Cup, Nordic Roasters Forum, and through the network of Authorised SCAE Trainers, enabled me to bring professionals from different parts of Europe to work together. Members were recruited
on the basis of both their professional skills and their openness to share and learn. They had to be fun to work with as well! When you serve as a volunteer, it is important to have fun while working on projects and events outside of your day job. Members of the Roaster Guild of Europe Working Group are roastery owners, managers, ASTs, roasting championship competitors, roasting researchers or professionals otherwise connected to roasting. They are Filip Åkerblom, Sweden; Lisa Lawson, Scotland; Kostas Kalafatis, Greece; Konrad Oleksak, Poland; Michael de Renouard, Denmark; Joanna Alm, Sweden; Andreas Idl, Austria; Morten Münchow, Denmark; Filip Bartelak, Poland; Edoardo Quarta, Italy; Grace O'Shaughnessy, Ireland and of course, me, Sonja Björk Grant, Iceland. Our first meeting was held at World of Coffee Gothenburg in June 2015 where many of the group knew of each other, but until then had never met. Our second meeting was held in Frankfurt in September where we brainstormed about the format and the future schedule. After these two meetings, it got real! SCAE staff came on board to help and Isabelle Verschraegen and Hannah Davies are the amazing heroes that help the Working Group with organisation and administration. Our first Roaster Camp is planned for October and this is just the beginning. All of us want to be better professionals and challenge ourselves and I believe that Roaster Camp and Roaster Guild of Europe will offer priceless support to roastmasters and pave the way for transparency, knowledge-sharing and passion. » SONJA BJÖRK GRANT is Chair of the Roaster Guild of Europe Working Group and a Regional Coordinator for SCAE.
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 31
ROASTERS
Fact Check:
WHAT IS ROASTER GUILD OF EUROPE? Roaster Guild of Europe (RGE) is a new trade guild of SCAE, dedicated to developing the speciality roasting profession through education, connectivity, and leadership, explains HANNAH DAVIES.
RGE
will aim to bring roasters of all abilities from across Europe together though events and engaging online platforms. This network will contribute to the development of roasters within Europe. But what is the Guild about and what benefits will roasters gain? Here’s a quick rundown: • Members of SCAE will receive the benefits of the SCAE Guilds. • Roaster Guild of Europe should attract roasters from all backgrounds – our events will be aimed at educating roasters of all abilities. • Educating attendees on the values of speciality roasting will be a key focus at our events. • There is no commitment to being a member of Roaster Guild of Europe – our members can take advantage of the benefits we offer, which includes discounted pricing for RGE events. • The Working Group consists of an experienced professional group of speciality roasters from across Europe. It exists to provide SCAE executives with the ideas and plans needed to provide benefits to roaster members. If you are interested in
32 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
joining the Group, or feel you have something to offer the Guild, please email us at hello@roasterguildofeurope.com. • The Working Group has formed a comprehensive educational programme for the inaugural Roaster Camp, where members will be actively involved in the teaching and successful delivery of the programme. • Opportunities for members to be more involved in the activities and future of RGE will be made possible at Roaster Camp in October 2016. Input on what you want the future of RGE to look like is most welcome. Ideas and feedback can be sent via hello@roasterguildofeurope.com. • Roaster Guild of Europe relies upon relationships made with key partners in order to run events, in particular the inaugural Roaster Camp in October 2016. Interested parties should contact RGE through guildpartnership@scae.com. To learn more about Roaster Guild of Europe and Roaster Camp 2016 please visit roasterguildofeurope.com and keep an eye on the RGE blog for updates from the European roasting community. roasterguildofeurope.com HANNAH DAVIES is Guild Coordinator with SCAE.
ROASTERS
JOIN RGE AT ROASTER CAMP The Roaster Guild of Europe Working Group is getting ready to host the first ever European Roaster Camp this autumn. Book your place at roasterguildofeurope.com. Why should I attend? As well as being able to avail of a diverse and high-quality educational programme of hands-on workshops you will:
Where? Estonia Resort Hotel & Spa, Pärnu, Estonia When? 6-8 October 2016
• have a chance to meet and network with peers from all over Europe
What’s on the programme? There will be a range of workshops on offer to camp attendees including roasting, green coffee, and sensory, all taking inspiration from the SCAE Coffee Diploma System. Afternoon seminars and round-table discussions on a broad range of topics related to roasting will give delegates the opportunity to debate and share their practices, encouraging development and strengthening the network at camp. You can check out the preliminary programme on the RGE website for a clearer idea of the educational content available. What else is planned? We will also have lots of opportunities to cup and evaluate coffees, with sessions by our green bean partners, as well as trainers. Adding to the fun and the chance to demonstrate your skills will be the team roasting and sensory challenges. The final assessment and winners presentation to close day three will send delegates home on a high.
• be given an opportunity to try and test leading equipment • be inspired by experienced speakers and trainers • be able to improve your skills with the support of experienced roasters • cup fresh coffees on offer from coffee importers Where can I get tickets? Registration is now available through the Roaster Guild of Europe website. How much are the tickets? • Double room - €870/SCAE members €780 • Single room - €950/SCAE members €860 • No accommodation - €750/SCAE members €660
◆
Move your roastery from ‘we should’ to ‘we do’. Cropster delivers the data so you can focus on what matters.
Offices Innsbruck, Austria | Sacramento, CA, USA
Partner Offices Tokyo | Seoul | Sydney | São Paulo
www.cropster.com office@cropster.com
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 33
COFFEE UNDER PRESSURE
SUSTAINABILITY
World Coffee Research tackles some of the key threats facing coffee. By HANNA NEUSCHWANDER
Hanna Neuschwander
Y
ou know the banana: About 6-8 inches long, primary yellow, pleasantly bland, perfectly ubiquitous on supermarket shelves throughout Europe. It’s called the Cavendish, and though it is seemingly everywhere, accounting for 47% of all global banana production, and a large majority of exported bananas, it is also on the brink of commercial extinction. Fusarium wilt, also called the Panama disease, is a fungus that already once wiped out global banana production in the 1950s. The disease is back, in deadlier form, and now again threatens an industry built on a perilous lack of genetic diversity. Practically every banana eaten in the Western world descends from a single Cavendish banana planted on an English estate nearly 180 years ago. Does this story sound familiar? It should. It is remarkably similar to the story of coffee. The vast majority of Arabica coffee grown around the world today is descendent from just a handful of plants taken to Europe, and then sent out along colonial trade routes in the 1800s — West to the ‘new world’ and east to India, Indonesia and Asia. Descendants of the Bourbon and Typica varieties, the majority of coffee grown on farms around the world 34 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
today, are dangerously genetically similar. Just ask the hundreds of thousands of coffee producers across Central America who had to contend with the 2011 coffee leaf rust epidemic. The outbreak wiped out millions of trees descended from these varieties, which are not resistant to the disease. The result? Over 1.7 million coffee farm labourers out of work, 18.2 million bags of coffee lost, and $8.2 billion dollars worth of damage. Coffee’s lack of genetic diversity is even more troubling than many realise. In fact, a study by World Coffee Research in 2015 found that of nearly 1,000 strains of Arabica, of which Bourbon and Typica were just two, the coffees had 98.8% genetic similarity to one another (measured as differences among single nucleotide polymorphisms). This included many wild-type Ethiopian Arabicas, which should be the most genetically diverse coffees in the world, since they are from coffee’s evolutionary ‘centre of origin’. What does this mean for the future of coffee? It likely means that the coffee plant as we know it — at least the widely grown commercial varieties — are not suited to the challenges of the 21st century, which already include rising temperatures, higher incidence of diseases and pests, and more frequent and severe droughts, like the one ravaging Ethiopia right now. »
SIGNPOST
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 35
SUSTAINABILITY Throw into the mix the fact that the industry is at risk from chronically low yields that prevent farming coffee from being profitable, from barriers to quality that prevent farmers from realising potential price premiums, all occurring simultaneously with rising demand. Coffee farmers are not alone in facing these challenges (just ask banana farmers), but for most of the world’s other most important good crops, like maize, rice, soybeans, or potatoes major, investments in agricultural research have provided farmers with workable solutions. But coffee — which billions of people around the world drink daily — receives less investment in research than minor seasonal fruit crops like watermelon. Despite the fact that coffee production worldwide is (conservatively) estimated to be worth $74bn in the US alone, compared with watermelon’s $521m, watermelon breeders have created 2,690 varieties of watermelon registered with the International Union for the Protection of Plant Varieties. Coffee breeders have created just 36 such varieties of coffee. But before looking to solutions to some of these vexing problems — and there are solutions — it’s useful to understand more about the nature of the challenges. Climate Change Rising temperatures affect the coffee plant in various ways. Impacts to quality are felt first, as warmer weather speeds maturation of the fruit and its ability to produce the chemicals that create complex acidity and volatile organic compounds — the sources of coffee’s unique flavour complexity. But when temperatures climb even higher, the plant has trouble ‘breathing’, losing some of its ability to photosynthesise effectively, causing lower yields and increased susceptibility to diseases and pests. When temperatures are high enough, the plant dies. Coffee farmers at lower altitudes are especially vulnerable to rising temperatures, and as a consequence appear to be switching to other crops. In the last year alone, global headlines have
You are experts in Coffee… 36 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
declared, ‘Coffee catastrophe beckons as climate change threatens Arabica plant’ (The Guardian), ‘Farmers ditch coffee for macadamia nuts’ (The Star, Kenya), and ‘As climate change threatens CentAm coffee, a cocoa boom is born’ (Reuters, Nicaragua). In India, coffee farmers have been gradually replacing higher quality Arabica plants with Robusta. In the 1950s, 73% of the country’s coffeelands were planted in Arabica. Today, it’s less than 50%. In Mexico and many other places, farmers are making a similar choice. Furthermore, as struggling coffee farms abandon coffee, which is one of the few cash crops in the world that can be grown in biologically diverse agroforestry settings, their land is often converted to other uses, leading to fragmentation and loss of forest habitats. Still, rising temperatures happen relatively slowly over time, giving farmers some leeway to adapt. But droughts, extreme rainfall, and frosts — the increasing frequency and intensity of which have been convincingly linked to climate change — can destroy a coffee farm in a matter of days. When a coffee plant, or all a farmer’s plants, die there is a major disincentive to replant in coffee because in addition to the upfront cost of new trees, it takes three years for those tree to produce fruit — and therefore, profits. Climate change is of course complex. But in the last five years, a clear consensus has emerged that it poses the single biggest threat to the future of coffee. And the existing supports we have for coffee producers are not enough to keep many of them in the game.
o a’s Re:c n n a H n See entatio s e r p n i Dubl Re:co on the annel, e ch YouTub posium. m RecoSy
Rising Demand Globally, coffee consumption has been rising about 2% per year since 2011, according to the International Coffee Organization (ICO). If that growth rate continues, coffee farmers will have to produce 10% more coffee by 2020 to meet market needs. That’s 15 million bags of coffee, or roughly the production of all of Central America and Mexico. By 2050, we will have to produce an additional 105 million bags of coffee — as much coffee as Africa, Central and South America currently produce. That’s a lot of coffee. The world will need to produce this coffee on half the suitable land currently available, according to predictions about the effects of climate change. Where will it come from? Some of that coffee, especially in the near term, will come from better agricultural practices. Coffee companies like Starbucks, Nespresso, and ECOM, and organisations like Technoserve, the Colombian Coffee Federation, Catholic Relief Services, and many more, are teaching farmers better approaches to pruning, mulching, composting, soil nutrition, and financial literacy that can increase yields today by 25-40%. This is fantastic work. But things begin looking grimmer when we zoom out and look at the expected impacts of climate change, paired with the low genetic diversity of coffee. It’s so obvious that it’s easy to forget: coffee is a plant. And the plant is up against some hard limits. Good agricultural practices can certainly make a farm more resilient, but it can’t save you from the effects of a severe, prolonged drought. Many coffee farmers in El Salvador or Guatemala whose farms were ravaged by coffee leaf rust followed good agricultural practices and still lost everything. And what about new, virulent diseases that have yet to emerge, and which existing varieties have no defenses against? Good agricultural practices are limited by the limitations of the plant.
SUSTAINABILITY
Coffee receives less investment in research than minor seasonal fruit crops like watermelon. Despite the fact that coffee production worldwide is (conservatively) estimated to be worth $74bn in the US alone, compared with watermelon’s $521m, watermelon breeders have created 2,690 varieties of watermelon registered with the International Union for the Protection of Plant Varieties. Coffee breeders have created just 36 such varieties of coffee. The Role of Research Research focused on adapting the coffee plant to its environment — this means research into diseases and pests, breeding efforts to develop new varieties, and the hard work of getting this research out of the lab and into farmer fields — is one of the most effective tools we have for addressing the challenges faced by coffee farmers. Focused, strategic, and sustained R&D for coffee can provide amazing results. And those benefits accrue across communities and the entire value chain. The World Bank estimates that investments in agricultural R&D worldwide offer a rate of return on investment of 30-50%. To understand the potential for research to address coffee’s key problems, we can look to other crops like maize. Over the last 60 years, through a combination of better agricultural practices and significant investment in breeding, maize yields have increased six-fold. Other cereal crop yields have more than doubled over the same period. So it’s especially problematic that coffee faces one of the worst gaps in research funding of any major food crop in the world. We already talked about watermelons and how they receive more investment in breeding than coffee, despite being massively less important economically and socially. So let’s take a crop that is more similar to coffee in terms of its global agricultural importance. Let’s talk about maize, or corn. Between 1990 and 2000, there were over 500 maize breeders in the US alone, working with budgets of over $137m dollars. The US maize industry reinvests about 0.4% of its total market value back into research and development. Meanwhile, World Coffee Research estimates that there are fewer than 50 coffee breeders in the entire world, working with research budgets of less than $20m. We estimate the global coffee industry invests less than 0.0001% of its $170bn global market value in agricultural R&D. Tim Schilling, CEO of World Coffee Research, says ‘Looking at these numbers, it’s not hard to understand why coffee yields and farmer profits are alarmingly poor and stagnant.’ Obviously, research is not the only answer to the challenges facing the coffee industry, and to coffee producers in particular. Agricultural research can produce varieties and other technologies that help farmers achieve profitability and that meet the needs of industry — that are higher yielding, disease resistant, climate resilient, and higher quality — but it can’t, for example, solve the problem of chronically low commodity prices. What Can You Do About It? The challenges outlined here are bigger than any one individual, any one coffee company, or even any entire coffee-producing nation can solve alone. That makes finding solutions complex, and necessitates collaboration. When I began learning about coffee research, I was surprised to learn that nearly all of the advanced agricultural research and breeding done in the coffee so far has been conducted by public governments in the coffee belt, many of them with struggling or inconsistent budgets that hinder steady progress. Historically, there has been no mechanism for the coffee industry to engage collaboratively with the governments and institutions working to advance scientific solutions to the challenges facing the industry. World Coffee Research was created so that companies whose business success relies on the success of coffee producers and the plants they grow — coffee roasters, coffee equipment
manufacturers, coffee importers and exporters, and more—could participate in fixes to the problems facing coffee farmers. It’s a small step, but an important one.
◆
HANNA NEUSCHWANDER is Director of Communications for World Coffee Research. She has been communicating about coffee and science since 2004. Her writing has appeared in publications including Travel + Leisure, The Art of Eating, Portland Monthly, and Modern Farmer. Based in Portland, Oregon, she is the author of Left Coast Roast, a guidebook to artisan and influential coffee roasters on the West Coast. To learn more about World Coffee Research and its work, please visit worldcoffeeresearch.org @WCoffeeResearch
wcoffeeresearch
WorldCoffeeResearch
ADD YOUR SUPPORT David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, believes the coffee community should support the work carried out by WCR. ‘SCAE believes that the work of World Coffee Research is essential to the future of speciality coffee. SCAE member companies are invited to consider becoming members of World Coffee Research and to participate in ensuring the future of coffee. Learn more at worldcoffeeresearch.org.'
…we are experts in Coffee Machines
Let’s team up for a perfect cup of coffee
beveragesystems@escatec.com www.escatec.com
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 37
WORLD OF COFFEE
DUBLIN
For one week in June Dublin was the epicentre of the coffee world, when over 6,500 visitors flocked into the Irish capital for SCAE’s annual World of Coffee extravaganza, sponsored by BWT water+more. Images: Chris Dobbs, Danilea Linares, Matias Sauter and Marc O’Sullivan
38 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
DELIGHTS H
ow did these visitors rate the show? A whopping 99% (yes – 99%!) of show attendees polled by independent researchers gave World of Coffee the thumbs up, reporting that they were satisfied or very satisfied with their visit to SCAE’s flagship event. Dublin proved to be a popular backdrop to the show, with close to two-thirds of visitors surveyed claiming that World of Coffee’s location in Ireland’s ‘Fair City’ influenced their decision to attend. The local coffee community, for its part, was delighted to welcome so many coffee professionals to the city, as SCAE President and Dublin denizen, Paul Stack, noted: ‘It was very special for Dublin to host World of Coffee this year, which coincided with the city’s annual Pride Festival. There is a vibrancy and energy in the speciality coffee market globally, and here in Dublin, and that was evident at what was a hugely successful
World of Coffee event. The market is growing exponentially, and will continue to do so, and on Pride Weekend in Dublin we were very proud to have brought this event to a great city.’ Expanded in 2016 to a week-long festival, featuring a 10,000sq.m. exhibition, Re:co Symposium, the not-to-be missed World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup, plus a host of lively debates, education, networking and parties, World of Coffee is now quite rightly billed as ‘Europe’s Greatest Coffee Week’. What makes it so great? At its heart is the community engagement, with thousands of coffee professionals from within the SCAE family, and the wider global coffee fraternity, coming together to share ideas, showcase innovations, and have fun. Here is Café Europa’s pick of the Top Five features at this year’s event. But don’t just take our word for it – join SCAE in Budapest next year to judge for yourself! >> CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 39
1
WORLD OF COFFEE
THE EXHIBITION The backbone of World of Coffee is the international coffee industry’s most colourful exhibition, this year spanning over 10,000sq.m. and featuring 250 stands which were manned by more than 1,500 exhibitors from around the world. Close to two-thirds (61%) of visitors spent more than one day at the show, eager to meet with new and existing suppliers. A total of 67% of attendees explained this was their top reason for attending World of Coffee, while 55% were visiting to source new products. Always a lively affair, the World of Coffee exhibition boasted an exciting line-up of features, including The Village, where microroasters from around the world showcased the best of third-wave coffee; the Cupping Room where a range of exclusive cuppings were held over the three days of the exhibition; the Barista Guild of Europe and Roaster Guild of Europe Hub where members could chill out over a game of table tennis and learn about the upcoming Barista and Roaster Camps and, of course, an ever-growing and always exciting line-up of the coffee industry’s biggest and best suppliers. Did we mention the silent disco? Yes, there was one, and yes, it was as much fun as you would expect. The success of the World of Coffee exhibition is borne out by the repeat business, with many exhibitors rushing to rebook their space for next year at the 2016 show. A total of 71% of stand space for 2017 was snapped up when bookings opened in Dublin, highlighting that if you want to exhibit in Budapest, you better be quick. (Head on over to worldofcoffee-budapest.com to find out how to secure your organisation’s spot.)
2017
See Europe with World of Coffee
2017
Budapest
Hungexpo Budapest 13-15 June 40 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
2018
Amsterdam
RAI Amsterdam 19-21 June
2019 Berlin
Messe Berlin 8-10 June
2
WORLD OF COFFEE Over 90,000 viewers around the world streamed the event live – a new WBC record – and were treated to commentary from 2015 and 2014 Champions, Sasa Sestic and Hidenori Izaki, among others. The pinnacle of the five days was, of course, the crowning of Taiwan’s Berg Wu, who claimed the 2016 World Barista Champion title after an impressive performance using a washed geisha coffee from Finca Debora in Panama. A third-time WBC contender, Berg became the first Taiwanese barista to make it to the final round, and subsequently the first to rise to the dizzy heights of World Champion, when he emerged triumphant from a field of 61 competitors – another WBC record. World Coffee Events marked the 17th year of the World Barista Championship by introducing a number of innovations to this year’s event. Chief among them was the WBC Teams Competition, where the individual performance rankings of the competitors in the first round were combined for a team score. Team Tamper, featuring Charlotte Malaval (France), Lyndon Recera (UAE), Yoshua Tanu (Indonesia), Steve Moloney (Sweden), Dan Fellows (UK) and David Coelho (Portugal), came up trumps, earning the super prize of a trip to the WBC All Stars Event at Seoul’s 2016 Café Show in November. Out on the exhibition floor, the World Brewers Cup – a World of Coffee stalwart, hosted for the sixth year in a row at the Dublin event – also drew the crowds. Japan’s Tetsu Kasuya was the last man standing on finals day, winning the sixth annual World Brewers Cup, which was contested by 26 competitors from around the globe. Like Berg, Tetsu looked to Panama for his competition coffee, choosing a naturally processed geisha coffee from the Ninety Plus Geisha Estate in Panama. Both champions’ decision to opt for Panamanian coffees was no doubt a boon to the Central American country, which was named World of Coffee’s Official Country Producer Sponsor for this year’s event. »
THE COMPETITIONS
Truly gladiatorial, both in terms of action and stage set-up, the World Barista Championship arena was where dreams were made at World of Coffee, with the stands packed to the rafters at each stage of the competition.
2016 WORLD BARISTA CHAMPIONSHIP RANKING Champion 2 3 4 5 6
NAME Berg Wu Yoshikazu Iwase Ben Put Lem Butler Charlotte Malaval Lex Wenneker
COUNTRY Taiwan Japan Canada USA France The Netherlands
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
2016 WORLD BREWERS CUP RANKING Champion 2 3 4 5 6
NAME Tetsu Kasuya Mikaela Wallgren Chad Wang Benny Wong Todd Goldsworthy Odd-Steinar Tøllefsen
COUNTRY Japan Finland Taiwan Hong Kong USA Norway
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 41
3
WORLD OF COFFEE
THE DEBATES
Taking place for the second time at World of Coffee following its debut in Gothenburg last year, Re:co once again attracted the brightest stars and deepest thinkers in coffee as the Speciality Coffee Symposium took place on the two days prior to the exhibition. Over 23 speakers graced the stage at the RDS Concert Hall to debate the big issues – from the ‘elephant in the room’ (big businesses making big money from speciality coffee) to how gender equality impacts all aspects of the coffee chain. The hot topics of research, communications, technology and SCAE and SCAA unification, were also up for debate, providing a jampacked agenda for the duration of the symposium and leaving delegates with much to think about. Also providing plenty of pause for thought was SCAE’s new Sustainability Forum, which ran over the three days of the World of Coffee exhibition and featured a broad line-up of speakers debating a wide range of sustainable questions. ‘Unless we do something on sustainability, we will have no coffee industry in the future,’ warned SCAE Executive Director, David Veal, who urged the coffee community to support SCAE partners such as World Coffee Research, Coffee Kids, Grounds for Health and the International Women’s Coffee Alliance, all of whom are striving to improve the fortunes of coffee and its producers. The importance of working together to make coffee more sustainable was underlined by World Coffee Research CEO, Dr Tim Schilling, who explained that in order to meet the annual coffee consumption growth rate of 2.5%-3% the industry will have to double production by 2050. By then, however, only half the coffeelands will be suitable to grow Arabica coffee. ‘The coffee industry is going to need a veritable miracle to meet its needs by 2050,’ he warned. (See Hanna Neuschwanter’s article
4
elsewhere in this issue for more on World Coffee Research’s work in this area.) The information exchange didn’t stop at the Sustainability Forum stage. Upstairs at the RDS Simmonscourt, SCAE once again delivered its popular seminar programme, with booked-out sessions running concurrently on the Business of Coffee and Science of Coffee. Business presenters included SCAE Vice President, Christina Meinl of Julius Meinl, who discussed how to establish a family brand on a global level; Julian Dixon of INTL FCStone, who offered advice for managing coffee market volitility and Edwin Harrison of Artisan Coffee, who shared key learnings from his experience setting up a cluster of coffee shops. Over in the Science seminars, a number of SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System creators shared their knowledge, including John Thompson, who discussed incorporating FlavorActiv into the new Green Coffee curriculum and Paul Meikle-Janney, who examined how to maximise the potential of the bean through coffee recipes. SCAA’s Emma Sage revealed the science behind the new SCAA Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel, while Dr Marco Wellinger of the University of Zurich introduced the new SCAE Water Chart.
THE AWARDS
With thousands of coffee professionals from around the globe gathered together, what better platform is there to celebrate the best of our community? While World Coffee Events held competitions to find the most talented baristas and brewers on the planet, elsewhere at the show SCAE took time out to honour the greatest coffee leaders and hottest new coffee innovations. SCAE’s annual Excellence Awards, nominated by members and chosen by the International Development Committee, are presented each year to members who contribute to the success of the industry through education, innovation, sustainability and entrepreneurship. ‘Our community is all about coffee and people and one of the things that we at SCAE like to celebrate is success,’ explained SCAE Executive Director, David Veal. ‘At the SCAE Excellence Awards we gather to celebrate the success of some of our brightest people, all of whom have been strongly nominated by their peers in the community. They have all inspired coffee excellence within their fields.’ The winners of the 2016 SCAE Excellence Awards, proudly sponsored by Oikocredit International, are:
42 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Winners of the SCAE Excellence Awards pictured with David Veal and Colin Smith of SCAE
Young Entrepreneur Award: Henry Wilson, Founder and CEO of perfectdailygrind.com Passionate Educator Award: Chiara Bergonzi, Authorised SCAE Trainer Innovation Award: Pete Southern, Founder of Clockwork Espresso and Creator of the PUSH Tamper Working Towards Sustainability Award: Benjamin Weiner, Gold Mountain Coffee Growers Lifetime Achievement Award: Edy Bieker, Head of Quality & Training at Sandalj Trading
WORLD OF COFFEE
Reflection of a Cup by Raul Perez
Last Part of the Process – Modern Brewing by Marcin Rzonca
A View From The Outside – Coffee Picker by Gavin Smart
T
he hottest new products on show at World of Coffee were also singled out for praise at the event, with the winners of the New Product of the Show Awards announced on day one of the exhibition. This year’s Awards were judged in two rounds by an independent jury comprising Steve Lovegrove, Head of Business Excellence – Central Marketing, Compass Group UK & Ireland; Jonathan Morris, Professor of Modern History, University of Hertfordshire and author of coffee-related publications; Kris Gibson, National Service Manager Operations, WMF Group; Ruth Hegarty, Head of Community, Chef Network and owner of egg&chicken food projects in Ireland, and Katie Gilroy, food writer and proprietor of Urbun café and Buckle Up restaurant in Dublin. Successful entrants who made it through the first round of judging prior to the show – where they submitted written and video presentations of their new products – were invited to present to the jury on the eve of World of Coffee in a Dragon’s Den-style format. The winners, who receive a profile in Café Europa as part of their prize (see page 46), are: Best New Professional Espresso Machine: Slayer Steam Best New Professional Small Equipment: Milk Mate by La Cultura del Caffé Best New Food/Non-Coffee Beverage: Hazel Mountain Cacao Tea Best New Roasters’ Product: Silon ZR-7 by Coffee-tech Engineering Best New Consumer Product: Cafflano Kompact by Beanscorp
BEEcom by Victor Beis
Best New IT & Technology Innovation: Open Cup by Artisan Coffee Group Best New Packaging: Green Capsule Top Lid by Ahlstrom Day three of the World of Coffee exhibition saw the presentation of the annual SCAE Photography Awards. Always a popular feature of the show, this year’s Photography Awards were judged by Johan Damgaard, Johan & Nystrom; Chris Dobbs, Chris Dobbs Photography; Sarah Grennan, Café Europa and Ludovic Maillard, Maison Jobin. The winners are: From Bean to Cup Title: Last Part of the Process – Modern Brewing Photographer: Marcin Rzonca Location: Park of Science & Technology, Lublin, Poland The People and the Bean Title: A View From The Outside – Coffee Picker at Rest Photographer: Gavin Smart Location: Finca Samaria, Nicaragua The Artist's Way Title: Reflection of a Cup Photographer: Raul Perez Location: Finca La Soledad, Acatenango, Guatemala The Bean and the Farm Title: BEEcom Photographer: Victor Beis Location: Finca La Cumplida, Matagalpa, Nicaragua »
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 43
5
WORLD OF COFFEE
THE PARTIES
OF 7 T R A P BE 201 N I N O TI THE AC rld
Coffee lovers come in their thousands for the innovation and education each year, but stay for the parties. Networking is always a huge part of World of Coffee, whether it’s at working breakfasts, such as the Annual International Women’s Coffee Alliance Breakfast, sponsored by Julius Meinl (see the IWCA article on page 52 for more) or at meetings throughout the day at the packed-out SCAE Lounge (this year with the added bonus of Guinness on tap!). It’s the after-hours events that really draw the crowds together, however, with a garland of parties taking place throughout the week. The highlight of this year’s World of Coffee social programme was undoubtedly the SCAE Party at Ireland’s most popular visitor attraction, Guinness Storehouse. With all five floors booked by SCAE, the party included options for a sit-down dinner or buffet service, plus entertainment from a U2 tribute band. Elsewhere during the week, SCAE hosted the opening reception in Dublin’s Mansion House on the eve of the exhibition, while WCE gathered Re:co delegates for dinner in the landmark Shelbourne Hotel on day one of the symposium. WCE also wrapped the celebrations with the annual Barista Party at The Village on the last night of the show. How will the SCAE events team top the celebrations next year? The pressure is now on as all eyes turn to Budapest. We’re looking forward to it already! Stay tuned to worldofcoffee-budapest.com for updates on 2017’s Greatest Coffee Week.
◆
o ce at W 17. a l p r u 0 o Book y udapest in 2 t.com B ee pes of Coff offee-buda om c c orldof garet@scae. w t i s i V il mar or ema for details.
STRONG INTEREST IN WATER TECHNOLOGY World of Coffee’s Official Host, BWT water+more, received positive feedback at the show. ‘Our idea of sensory water optimisation has been very well received worldwide and is creating ever wider ripples in the coffee industry. And we've seen it again at World of Coffee 2016,’ said Dr Frank Neuhausen, Managing Director of BWT water+more. ‘There were plenty of visitors to our stand the whole time and a great deal of interest was shown in our technologies. It was also nice to get so much positive feedback from users of our water optimisation systems. Baristas are really glad to see a company pursuing the issue of the sensory experience for coffee water and developing the appropriate filter technologies', said Frank. As well as showcasing its sensory water optimisation technology to visitors, BWT water+more also dispensed filtered water on the stand for fellow exhibitors. ‘The water in Dublin isn't soft. It's not bad, but chlorine has been added to it. We used a suitable filter and produced the best water around in sensory terms. The other companies, such as machine manufacturers, were really happy with the service, as they always had the ideal
44 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
coffee water for their own coffee on their stands.’ BWT water+more’s decision to sponsor World of Coffee is in gratitude to the community, explained Frank. ‘By supporting World of Coffee, we're saying to the international barista community: thank you for the many times you have provided a key stimulus for us and for your constructive contribution. Our intention is to continue to establish a superior coffee culture which takes account of the influence water quality has on the taste of the coffee and in this respect we are pulling in the same direction as the baristas. This and the fact that our technologies work and are very well received make us strong partners.’ For more, visit bwt-wam.com.
WORLD OF COFFEE
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 45
WE STOCK ALL ESSENTIAL MATERIALS FOR THE COFFEE DIPLOMA SYSTEM
SHOP NOW OPEN www.scae.com
DID YOU KNOW? The SCAE Shop supplies all your essential reading materials for the Coffee Diploma System. Buy your books, specialist equipment and resources from the SCAE Shop today.
BOOKS
CLOTHING & APPAREL
ACCESSORIES & STATIONERY
EQUIPMENT & TOOLS
JEWELLERY
DON’T FORGET, SCAE MEMBERS RECEIVE AN EXTRA * AND 10% DISCOUNT ON ALL PURCHASES AT THE SCAE SHOP! 46 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
INNOVATION
Best on Show
World of Coffee’s Hottest New Products World of Coffee is a hotbed for innovation with cutting-edge suppliers choosing SCAE’s annual event as a springboard to launch their most exciting new products. Following a rigorous assessment process where products were put through their paces by an independent jury, seven companies were selected for honours in the 2016 World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards. Here, the winning companies explain what makes their products so special.
Best New Professional Espresso Machine Slayer Steam by Slayer
‘Slayer Steam demonstrates the ability to enhance consumer experience of the final product in the cup.’ – New Product of the Show Awards Jury What inspired the development of the product? Primarily, it was the sheer volume of milk-based beverages that are consumed in our industry. We asked, ‘What are the limitations of current steaming systems? Can we make them better?’ We also considered the machine user and details like workflow and repetitive motion. Efficient and elegant beverage building aids bar flow and produces an excellent end game, to make coffee better. What is the benefit of the product? There is room for a new standard in milk. With technology that produces drier vapour, steam creates a less diluted beverage. Higher steam temperatures also result in deeper flavour development. It’s exciting, to say the very least, and we have much more to add! How can it serve the speciality café sector? If the coffee experience weighs heavily on the idea of customer experience and that experience is put in the hands of the professional barista, success will only occur if the proper tools and training have been put in place. Conservatively, we estimate that 80% of coffee beverages consumed each day around the world contain milk. We developed this machine to elevate the experience for those consumers.
– there is no need to duck down low or lift the hood when it all should be right at your fingertips. The adjustable drain tray accommodates scales, ceramics, and paper carryout cups. Dualflow steam actuators with two settings per wand allow for the finetuning of steam flow rate for various milk volumes: macchiatos, cortados, and lattes. What feedback have you had from customers? Our customers have only inspired us more with our findings! One of our favourite responses was one of almost rage. A guest taster stated something like, ‘You know, this makes me angry… Why hasn’t this happened sooner?’ People have come to love and expect an elegant aesthetic from Slayer. What did it mean to win the award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards? After so many years of research and tireless development – combined with many ‘back to the drawing board’ moments – it's incredibly gratifying to have our efforts recognised by a prestigious judging panel. It was a welcomed triumph! » slayerespresso.com
Who uses the product/what market does it cater to? The consideration of who the user is was critical in development of this machine. In addition to the features already explained, creating a high-capacity machine with high quality in output, consistency, and repeatability were near the top of the list. This machine puts tuning capability for both coffee and milk in the hands of the barista. All digital controls are ‘heads up’ in the Barista Dashboard CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 47
INNOVATION What did it mean to win the award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards? This award represents an important recognition of the work Ahlstrom is doing in coffee to provide sustainable and compostable solutions that don’t pollute our world but feed it. This is a first step in a direction that involves the whole coffee value chain, from farmers to coffee roasters to end users. We must all be involved if we want to make the coffee sector an environmentally sustainable market. ahlstrom.com
Best New Packaging:
Green Capsule Top Lid by Ahlstrom ‘This green capsule has the potential to deliver significant environmental benefits in the growth area of single-serve capsule coffee.’ – New Product of the Show Awards Jury What inspired the development of the product? As for many innovations, this compostable solution for espresso capsules came from a crossover of ideas from the different sectors Ahlstrom is involved in. We put together different technologies and products used in other applications to create something unique for the coffee world. What is the benefit of the product? This lidding solution for espresso coffee capsules has two great advantages: it’s compostable and it guarantees a perfect coffee extraction. In other words you can have a great coffee with less waste. Our lid is entirely made from natural fibres in order to biodegrade once used. To obtain a correct coffee extraction we developed a patented multilayer structure that enhances the pressure needed to have a great espresso with a thick, dense crema on the top. How can it serve the speciality coffee sector? The market for single serve coffee systems is growing year-on-year. In western European countries an average of 30% of households already have a single serve coffee machine. These systems are simple, allow high quality results in cup and use fresh coffee with all elements supporting a growing demand from consumers. The negative aspect is that these systems require the coffee to be packed in a different format, typically capsules and pods, that have to be thrown out once utilised. The amount of waste that these capsules generate has reached levels that cannot be ignored anymore. Our solution reduces the environmental impact of these systems as it biodegrades after use, becoming compost that feeds our plants. Who uses the product/what market does it cater to? This solution is dedicated to espresso preparation. We wanted to deliver the same barista experience to coffee lovers without generating the typical waste of the standard plastic capsules. Right now this solution has been adopted by several coffee roasters in France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy. These European markets are showing a high level of commitment to reducing the pollution generated by the billions of capsules used every year. What feedback have you had from customers? No one believed that a paper filter lid could work as well as the common aluminium ones until we showed them our solution. The feedback is extremely positive, not only for the environmental benefits our solution provides but also for the quality of the coffee extraction. The filter does not release the coffee unless the capsules reach the correct pressure required by the espresso extraction.
48 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Best New Professional Small Equipment Barista MilkMate by La Cultura del Caffé
‘Barista MilkMate provides a compact, practical solution that will improve productivity, speed of service and reduce waste.’ – New Product of the Show Awards Jury What inspired the development of the product? Milk portioning takes the longest time in coffee preparation and it is responsible for most of the waste. More than that, it’s not that hygienic because milk is not always in the cooler. With Barista MilkMate there is no need to take milk out of the cooler. The drip tray with the integrated flush system ensures that milk jugs are always cold-rinsed. What is the benefit of the product? Barista MilkMate becomes a perfect part of the barista’s workflow. It’s easy, fast and hygienic. How can it serve the speciality café sector? Milk-based coffees and latte art are an important part of the speciality café sector. They all need perfectly portioned milk, used as hygienically as possible. Who uses the product/what market does it cater to? Baristas all over the world use our product, the LCDC Barista MilkMate. It belongs in every coffee or barista bar. What feedback have you had from customers? The feedback we have had is beyond words. Our clients were a bit sceptical at the beginning but now they support this innovation from the bottom of their hearts. Roasting and latte art champions and baristas feel the same way about it. Once you try working with the MilkMate you won’t work without it ever again. What did it mean to win the award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards? To win this award was a great honour for us! We worked very hard on our innovation and it was a long and hard journey to come this far. Now, we are on the world stage and our focus is to become even better. milkmate.at
INNOVATION
Best New Food/Non-Coffee Beverage:
Best New Consumer Product
‘This tea, a by-product of the cocoa process, provides a beverage that is not only sustainable but has a distinctive flavour and aroma in the cup.’ – New Product of the Show Awards Jury
‘The Cafflano Kompact is a great, compact coffee brewer displaying high levels of innovation to enable consumers to drink great coffee on-the-move.’ – New Product of the Show Awards Jury
Hazel Mountain Cacao Tea
Cafflano Kompact by Beanscorp
What inspired the development of the product? As beanto-bar chocolate makers one of our waste products from the chocolate-making process was always the shell from the bean, and we were forever looking for ways to utilise it. Eventually, following much research and development, we figured that a cacao tea or infusion was not only a great way of utilising waste, but actually produced a great product in its own right. What is the benefit of the product? The shell of the cacao bean is naturally caffeine-free, and cacao is rich in antioxidants, but of course the major benefit is the taste. Our cacao tea is bright, fresh and fruity but has a depth of flavour from the earthiness of the shell, with unmistakable chocolatey tones.
How can it serve the speciality café sector? There is increased awareness on part of the consumer with regard to the difference between chocolatiers using industrial couverture chocolate and real chocolate makers, so speciality cafés can now tap in to that distinction and the increased demand for real chocolate products by stocking and using our cacao tea. Also we perceive a niche in the market as speciality coffee shops would not tend to stock a cacao-based tea. Who uses the product/what market does it cater to? In Ireland at least, we are a nation of tea drinkers, and our products cater to all who enjoy teas and infusions, our product would be perfect as refreshing morning beverage, a warming afternoon drink, or even an evening tipple. What feedback have you had from customers? Feedback has been outstanding, our tea has been winning blind taste tests against other teas and infusions, we have been doing excellent trade out of our shop and feedback from our stockists has been very positive. People have praised the mouthfeel of our tea and enjoyed it for its layers of lingering and expansive flavour. What did it mean to win the award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards? We were absolutely thrilled to have won our prize at the world of coffee event. To be recognised by your peers and industry heads is just beyond what we would have imagined possible. To stand on the same stage as other winners such as Slayer coffee machines was a really special moment for us and all our team in Hazel Mountain Chocolate. hazelmountainchocolate.com
What inspired the development of the product? As soon as we launched the Cafflano Klassic, the all-in-one pour-over coffee maker, last year we began working on press-type gear. As one can guess from its name, ‘Kompact’, we tried to make this gear as compact as possible for maximum portability. It is much easier to use than existing gear. What is the benefit of the product? There are so many noticeable benefits of Cafflano Kompact. It perfectly matches the needs of high-quality portable coffee gear. Its height is only 61mm (when folded) with the weight of 242g. It used food-grade silicon bellows (melting point: 220°C) as its core component, which is dishwashersafe. The bellows-typed chamber ensures zero-friction while pressing so anyone can press to brew without sweating. Another big advantage of Cafflano Kompact is cold brew on-the-go and the leak-free Airlock is a key to making this possible. Just like Cafflano Klassic, Kompact also adopted an etched stainless filter, removing needs of paper filters for healthier environment. The filter can be cleaned instantly thanks to Kompact’s pumping action. Last but not least, all parts can be disassembled easily for simple cleaning. How can it serve the speciality coffee sector? Speciality cafés cannot survive by selling cups of coffee at stores alone, which is why more and more cafés are also selling their roasted beans. Most of customers who buy beans from cafés or online stores consume the beans either in their offices or homes. As Cafflano Kompact can be used anytime, anywhere, it stimulates bean consumption and thus helps those cafes upsell their beans. It also works as the bridge between the speciality coffee industry and the mass public, exposing speciality coffee to a greater audience. Who uses the product/what market does it cater to? It is for any coffee lover. Cafflano Kompact can satisfy four different business sectors – coffee, outdoor, gift, and kitchenware. What feedback have you had from customers? We have had more compliments than we could imagine. Many told us that Cafflano Klassic changed their lifestyles as it is comfortable and easy to carry around, but I think Cafflano Kompact really won the hearts of backpackers and campers who love coffee. What did it mean to win the award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards? It is Beanscorp’s second best new product award from SCAE, which we received for the second year in a row. We believe there are not too many companies that won the best new product awards two years running from one of the most prestigious organisations in the world! » mycafflano.com
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 49
INNOVATION
Best New IT & Technology Innovation Open Cup by Artisan Coffee Group
‘Open Cup is an easy-to-use, labour saving software package that enables multiple users to aggregate sensory data in a simple-to-use format.’ – New Product of the Show Awards Jury What inspired the development of the product? For the last eight years, a volunteer team has been assisting Rainforest Alliance Cupping For Quality events. There were many challenges faced as paper, spreadsheets, an electronic cupping app, and a windows app were being used on site and data passed through several disconnected systems. We set out to document the processes involved, the relational data flows from start to finish, knowing that we could make this experience what it needed to be and collect data for future analysis to help Rainforest Alliance farmers better understand the quality of their coffees. What is the benefit of the product? OpenCup enables cuppers to save time and money, be more productive, collaborate easily with other OpenCup users around the world, quantify decisions and eliminate outside dependencies. How can it serve the speciality coffee sector? Speciality roasters who supply the café sector will have a more efficient way to QC their offerings, ensure the quality expected is consistent for each delivery and provide cupping reports that the café sector can use for marketing, all combined to better serve their customers. It can also be used to engage café customers with an easy to implement consumer cupping, designed to evaluate coffees in their own language, giving café owners new perspectives from their consumers. What may not be obvious are the trickle-up effects of producers, cooperatives, exporters, importers and brokers who use OpenCup to improve their offering before it gets to the speciality roaster. Who uses the product/what market does it cater to? Since we built in several cupping protocols and the ability to design your own cupping protocol, all audiences in the coffee chain benefit using OpenCup. As an example, a roaster who deals with both sample and production roasting will be able to make
Best New Roasters’ Product:
Silon ZR-7 by Coffee-tech Engineering ‘The Silon ZR-7 is a well-designed mini-roaster that would complement a shop environment and enable a baristaapproach to roasting.’ – New Product of the Show Awards Jury What inspired the development of the product? The development of the Silon ZR-7 was inspired by the golden era of artisanal coffee professional stores –before any mega production in the food industry – to create a state-of-the-art tool that can help produce a different quality from commercial abilities. What is the benefit of the product? The Silon ZR-7 features a completely new perception of structure, featuring a closed ceramic combustion chamber with new configuration of a burner with much higher efficiency. The versatility of the machine and its broad control is the right tool to craft every single batch individually according to customers’ desire or any rare, small quantity of microlots that need to be manufactured manually with extra care. 50 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Marty Curtis, Danny Hall and Bob Sanders of Open Cup
comparisons between the two and gain insights and validation of their roasting techniques. A cupping instructor will be able to look at students’ combined cuppings, identify insights, enrich the post cupping discussions and suggest changes that lead to better quality cupping instructors. Even those who run coffee competitions like Cup of Excellence, or Roasters Guild will find that OpenCup adapts to their needs. What feedback have you had from customers? The most interesting feedback happened at the first Rainforest Alliance Cupping For Quality event where we used OpenCup. At these events there is always a post-cupping discussion at the end of each session. Previous to OpenCup, there was not real time data available, so the Lead Judge would ask each cupper to discuss what they found. The depth of discussion could only go so far. With OpenCup, we assimilate all session results real time, then project to a flat screen TV for the entire group to see and interact with. It took a couple of sessions for the Lead Judge and cuppers to understand what was in front of them and once they did the depth of discussion really took off. Since almost all these cuppers are involved in sourcing speciality coffee, they came away with new insights that supported their sourcing these quality coffees. What did it mean to win the award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards? In addition to enjoying participating in a professionally run event, winning was another validation of the design principles we used in developing OpenCup. opencup.coffee
How can it serve the speciality coffee sector? It is a machine that can range from zero to 10 in every control parameter, offering excellent flexibility in batch size, with no limitations. It is the most suitable machine to roast microlots and speciality coffee. Designed to function in shop, it is safe, compact and quiet, with superb thermal insulation. Who uses the product/what market does it cater to? Speciality coffee shops and coffee artisans. What feedback have you had from customers? That it is a stunning looking design with superb roasts results that is very user-friendly. What did it mean to win the award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards? It means a lot. After years of hard work, late nights and weekends, it’s nice to get some acknowledgment and encouragement. We dedicate our work to passionate coffee artisans that strive to serve the best product and we wanted to create the best tool for them. After many years we can see the results. Many of our customers have won awards and they never forget to thank us as part of their success.
◆
coffee-tech.com
From the mountains of Mexico, your one, simple and reliable source of sustainable certified organic and speciality coffee.
Tel: +1 619 947 5809 www.kenoocoffee.com
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 51
EQUALITY
Women in Coffee SCAE’s Leading Role in Promoting Gender Equity Gender equity was a major issue for discussion at World of Coffee Dublin. HANNAH GILES reports on the initiatives being undertaken by the International Women’s Coffee Alliance, with support from SCAE, to empower women in coffee.
1
3
2
4
At the IWCA/SCAE Breakfast, sponsored by Julius Meinl, during World of Coffee Dublin were 1. Robert Skidmore, Chief of Sector Competitiveness at the International Trade Centre and David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE, who signed an agreement to partner on a project in Rwanda; 2. Christina Meinl, Global Marketing Manager, Julius Meinl and Vice President, SCAE and Angelique Karekezi, President of IWCA’s Rwanda chapter and Managing Director of Rwashoscco; 3. Angelique, Maria Cleaveland, IWCA Marketing Chair, and Marie Laetitia Kayitesire, Managing Director of Sake Farm; 4. IWCA members with David Veal
A
year on from the signing of a three-year Memorandum of Understanding between the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) and the International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA), the annual World of Coffee event in Dublin provided the perfect opportunity to reflect on the considerable achievements of the past 12 months and on the significant challenges that lie ahead. SCAE’s commitment to promoting gender equity at all levels in the coffee value chain, as well as addressing wider issues relating to sustainability, was clearly in evidence during this year’s World of Coffee, which featured an impressive programme of sessions dedicated to these important industry-wide concerns. The IWCA was honoured and excited to play such a significant part in proceedings. Prior to the start of the event, we participated in a stimulating Re:co Symposium, where we were able to engage in meaningful discourse with innovative business leaders in our sector and emphasise the importance of promoting and supporting gender equity. Throughout the three days of World of Coffee, IWCA was involved in a number of thought-provoking sessions focused on women in coffee. 52 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
IWCA/SCAE Breakfast In conjunction with SCAE, on Friday morning, we hosted a joint breakfast. In addition to a range of speeches on topics relating to gender and coffee, the breakfast offered the chance for attendees to network with their peers and to meet women active in coffee at origin. Julius Meinl graciously co-hosted the breakfast and made it possible for all attending to taste coffees produced by our Rwandan Chapter members. Christina Meinl, Global Marketing Manager at Julius Meinl and Vice President of SCAE, commented on how delighted their roastmaster was at the quality level of the coffee produced by the Koakaka Cooperative and exported by farmerowned marketing, exporting and roasting company, Rwashoscco. That the speciality coffee provided for the breakfast came from our Rwandan chapter was especially gratifying because it provided an opportunity to showcase our new venture, Women in Coffee World. This new digital platform offers for sale coffee grown by women located in our 20 IWCA chapters worldwide. In addition to sampling the coffee, we were treated to a presentation by Marie Laetitia Kayitesire, IWCA member and Managing Director at Sake Farm Ltd, located in the Ngoma District Eastern Province of Rwanda. Sake was responsible for the coffee
EQUALITY served at the breakfast, and Marie Laetitia’s presentation served as an inspiring example of the work of our Rwandan Chapter. Sake has been growing coffee since 1999 and has been undertaking processing and exporting functions since 2003. The farm employs up to 100 people during the season, 80% of whom are women. Up to 30 people are employed in the Sake coffee plantation, 90% of whom are women. The women employed at Marie Laetitia’s farm benefit from technical training in agriculture and quality control. Sake is also involved in wider community engagement and a sustainability programme. The 1,560 local farmers are organised in groups and trained in agricultural techniques. Sake buys its coffee cherries and trains the farmers how to use them to make natural fertiliser. During her presentation at the breakfast, Marie Laetitia emphasised how she is benefiting from the support of the IWCA and also the International Trade Center, in the areas of capacity building and attendance at international conference exhibitions to promote Sake’s work, as well as its fine Arabica Bourbon coffee, which everyone at the IWCA/SCAE breakfast was lucky enough to sample. In many ways, the breakfast was a fitting culmination of a year of activity by both the SCAE and ICWA aimed at empowering, encouraging and supporting women throughout the coffee value chain. Indeed, in May 2016, SCAE sent a delegation to Rwanda for eight days, which included a visit to IWCA’s Rwandan Chapter, as well as meetings with local farmers and coffee tastings. Rwandan coffee producers very much benefit from the involvement of SCAE and this includes the country’s women farmers and coffee workers. As such, the World of Coffee breakfast and our popular Saturday cupping session both highlighted the great strides forward – not to mention the wonderful coffee – that can result when women enjoy the full support and involvement of organisations that recognise their true potential. Women’s Role in a Sustainable Industry On Friday afternoon we participated in a lively panel discussion on gender equity, which formed part of the World of Coffee’s Sustainability Forum. The panel included Angelique Karekezi, IWCA Rwanda Chapter President and Managing Director at Rwashoscco, a farmerowned marketing, exporting and roasting company. The session addressed such issues of how we, as a community, can raise the profile of women in coffee among stakeholders and consumers. The discussion also highlighted how gender equity fits into wider issues surrounding sustainability. The overriding message we hope everyone took away from the discussion was that empowering and supporting women in the coffee supply chain benefits the sector as a whole. Indeed, Angelique commented during the panel: ‘We have to empower women to be active in the coffee business for it to be sustainable.’ During the forum, Angelique delivered an inspiring presentation on creating the IWCA’s Rwandan Chapter and also on her work to empower the chapter’s women. She began by discussing the enduring issue of gender stereotyping that persists in some parts of the world. However, she moved on to talk about how Rwanda has evolved, using her own experience as an example. She noted: ‘I’ve been managing Rwashoscco since 2014, and under my leadership the company is prospering!’ Angelique’s leadership skills have moved beyond Rwashoscco, extending to the establishment of IWCA’s Rwandan chapter. Of the chapter's goals, she said ‘We always call upon women in coffee to make quality their motto.’ Angelique aims to generate further cohesion by encouraging members to engage in other small income generating activities, such as crafts, and to move into leadership positions in their associations and cooperatives. She noted that women now have the opportunity to be heard – and they need to take advantage of this opportunity. She further cautioned that, for gender equity to be achieved, change has to occur on three levels: home, co-operative and community. However, the overall picture painted was one of optimism,
with political and economic shifts opening the door for women to step through. Indeed, as Angelique commented, ‘What has been achieved and what is taking place gives hope!’
W
ith World of Coffee now over for another year, everyone involved with the IWCA would like to extend their gratitude to SCAE for putting on such an interesting, enlightening and, of course, fun-packed few days. We left Dublin feeling as though real progress had been made and more eyes had been opened to the current challenges and future opportunities for women in coffee. We also left feeling energised about what can be achieved when a concerted effort is made to make things better. Of course, there is a long road to travel until we reach true gender equality in coffee. However, the word is certainly spreading that gender equity is good for everybody. With organisations like SCAE embracing this concept, there is no doubt that meaningful, lasting and sustainable change will be the outcome. When we all reconvene in Budapest for the 2017 World of Coffee, we very much look forward to celebrating another year of achievement, for both our organisations – in addition to enjoying some more wonderful coffee, of course!
◆
HANNAH GILES is a freelance writer specialising in coffee and a member of the IWCA marketing committee.
IWCA: Working to Empower Women in Coffee Founded in 2003, the International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA) works to empower women throughout the international coffee community, particularly the millions of women coffee farmers who face significant challenges and barriers due to long-standing gender inequities. The organisation is focused on encouraging and recognising the participation of women in all aspects of the coffee industry, and to ensure they lead meaningful lives. As such, the IWCA is founded on the core principles of: • Respect • Sustainability • Abundance • Integrity • Collaboration • Making a difference The IWCA comprises a board of directors and several committees, which set the strategic plan and structure. However, the organisation is built around its – to date – 20 chapters, which operate in coffee-producing and consuming countries around the world, including Brazil, India and Rwanda. Representatives from each chapter work within their communities to promote IWCA’s mission. To further its goals, the IWCA works with like-minded organisations, such as SCAE, to develop gender equity principles. The organisation is represented at major coffee events worldwide and recently launched a new digital platform to connect women coffee farmers directly with consumers. While the IWCA is a non-profit organisation, its focus is not on charity, but on giving women the tools they need to better their lives, including training, business financing, and market access. The IWCA is also focused on educating people in the coffee community and beyond about gender equity in coffee and how this fits into the wider issue of sustainable development. As a non-profit organisation, the IWCA relies on donations from individuals and industry partners, as well as the time of its international volunteers. Find out how you can get involved at womenincoffee.org.
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 53
54 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
ADVICE
How To… Become an AST
Are you looking for the next stage in your career? Would you like to share your coffee knowledge and passion with a new generation of coffee lovers? SUSAN HOLLINS details the support available to become an Authorised SCAE Trainer (AST). AST Live! Budapest 2016
A
round the world, hundreds of coffee professionals are spreading SCAE’s mission to inspire coffee excellence through their roles as Authorised SCAE Trainers (ASTs). They come from many different backgrounds and with very different experiences, from barista to roaster, from sensory analyst to coffee trader. Most of our ASTs were already involved in training before they joined SCAE, while for some, it is a more recent skill which they wish to develop in the speciality coffee industry. So what does it take to become an Authorised SCAE Trainer and what are the benefits for ASTs? We all love speciality coffee, but that’s not enough. ‘What I think makes a good trainer is realising that it is difficult to teach, but is even more difficult to learn,’ says Pablo Caballero Agudo, an AST from Spain. ‘A good AST has to be patient, empathetic and, above all, motivating in order to increase student curiosity and give them all the tools they need to continue learning by themselves.’ The most passionate coffee professional may not be the world’s best trainer: Years of experience as a roaster, barista, scientist or engineer do not guarantee you will become an excellent trainer. The best trainers are those who can inspire their students through a combination of passion, knowledge, communication skills and, often, sheer determination. They want their students to reach the highest standard of skills and knowledge in their chosen subject; they also want to ensure every student has the best opportunity to succeed. ‘I became an AST because of my passion for teaching, learning and for coffee,’ says London AST, Tim Sturk. ‘I get a buzz from the “lightbulb moments” when a student suddenly “gets it” and says, “Aha!”.’ Authorised SCAE Trainers go through an extensive training process, which includes completion of relevant Coffee Diploma System modules at all levels and attendance at a two-day AST course. There are opportunities for Continuing Professional Development, through attendance at SCAE’s two annual events for trainers, AST Live! and AST Asia, through feedback on lesson observations, and through local events – talks, presentations, workshops – across Europe and the rest of the world. The benefits for trainers are huge: not only are they carving out a career within a highly successful global industry, they are also part of a close, collaborative community which helps to promote the wonderful product which is speciality coffee. ‘I became a SCAE Trainer because I love coffee, people and education… not always in this order!” says Panagiotis Konstantinopoulos, an AST from Greece.
How do I become an Authorised SCAE Trainer? All of SCAE trainers should already be familiar with SCAE and with the Coffee Diploma System. From 1 January, 2017, all applicants to the Authorised SCAE Trainer course should meet the following requirements: • Be a member of SCAE for at least six months before becoming an AST; • Complete the Intermediate level and Professional level of the module they wish to teach – Barista Skills, Brewing, Sensory Skills, Green Coffee or Roasting. SCAE requires a minimum of three months between taking and passing the Intermediate level and then taking the Professional level of a specific module. This is to allow the student to put their learning into practice and gain experience which will be useful when attempting the higher level. AST courses are held regularly across Europe and occasionally in SE Asia. Locations in 2016 include France, UK, Hungary, Greece, Ireland, Japan and Australia. This two-day programme covers teaching and learning theory, SCAE processes and procedures, practical activities and an assessed micro-teach. It’s also a great opportunity for new trainers – often from different parts of the world – to meet and share experiences. An AST licence is valid for three years from the moment the AST passes the AST course and costs (at August 2016 prices) €1,200. All Authorised SCAE Trainers can teach the entry level Introduction to Coffee module. ASTs can also teach any of the specialist modules – Barista Skills, Brewing, Sensory Skills, Green Coffee and Roasting – as long as they have passed the Intermediate and Professional levels of those modules. A licence to teach and certify a specialist module of the Coffee Diploma System (Barista Skills, Brewing, Sensory Skills, Green Coffee or Roasting) costs €200 and is also valid for three years. There is no additional cost to attend the AST course and, as long as you pass the course, you will become a member of a thriving and committed community of coffee educators. If you think you’ve got what it takes to become an Authorised SCAE Trainer, you can contact staff at SCAE headquarters on education@ scae.com or check out the Training and Education pages of the SCAE website on scae.com.
◆
SUSAN HOLLINS is Education Manager at SCAE. For more, visit scae.com/training-and-education CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 55
FIELD TRIP
Coffee Friends Across the Seas COLIN SMITH reports from Sumatra.
F
or many of the 19 intrepid travellers on SCAE’s recent field trip to Sumatra, it was a long, but very worthwhile journey to Banda Aceh. The welcome and care provided by our hosts soon eased any jetlag. Our first hotel in province’s capital – The Pade Hotel, meaning ‘rice’ – backed onto large rice fields on the outskirts of the city. Here we could see farmers preparing the water-filled fields for their sowing during the next month. Views of the flatland did not last long, however, for the next day, in three buses, we undertook the eight-hour drive to the Gayo Mountains, to Takengon and Lake Laut Tawar. Takengon sits at the head of the lake surrounded by the coffee-growing mountains. On our arrival we were met by the regent of Aceh Tengah and were given an enthusiastic reception at his residence. Here we were entertained with dancing and speeches alongside a meal of Sumatran delicacies. The next morning we attended the official reception of the regents and farmers, where we were welcomed by the regents of Aceh Tengah (Mr H. Nasaruddin), of Bener Meriah (Mr Ruslan Abdul Gani) and the Ambassador to Brussels and the EU (Mr Lanang Seputro). All underlined the need to meet the economic challenges presented by the coffee industry. Fiaz Achmad of the Ministry of Industry assured us that the quality of Gayo coffee accedes all coffees, and is a symbol in the world. Achmad Iskandar of the Investment Coordinating Board, who organised our trip, sees Aceh as link to Europe for investment in infrastructure. 56 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Following the reception a group of local farmers presented their coffees to the group. After lunch we left, together with our entourage of police cars and dignitaries, to visit a small farm. Much of the coffee is produced organically on smallholdings, where the family grow and pulp the coffees, laying the parchment to dry in front of the house. The Pantan Terong farm produces 1.5 tonnes per year of parchment and the coffee is all shade grown. Before the parchment is fully dry (35-40% moisture), it is taken to a milling station where it is removed to expose the damp coffee beans. The beans are then returned to complete the drying process (to 13% moisture). This is called wet hulling or giling basah. The result is that Gayo coffee has a significant blue/green colour, differentiating it from other coffees in the world. The next morning, in true government style, the Regent and entourage escorted us to a coffee nursery and then after lunch to the KBQ Babburrayan Cooperative. Started in 2002, the copperative has 7,000 members each producing 700-1000kg of coffee. There farmers bring in their coffee and the defects are measured against the good beans. They are then offered a price, which is paid after cupping. The processing after drying involves hand-sorting by ladies who pick out the defaults from a conveyor belt, grading and bagging for export. Our trip round the production plant ended with a tasting session where we enjoyed identification of citric and floral notes alongside very winey coffee from natural process.
FIELD TRIP
The government lays down strict rules on how the coffee is grown and processed. They give the farms the trees (up to 1,800 trees per hectare) and the trees are changed every 25 years. Each tree is expected to produce 1kg of cherry, equal to 20gms of green bean. The tree is pruned down to two metres and weeds are cleared with a mattock, while pulp is laid between the rows as compost. The red cherry is collected by selective picking. During the lunch break we saw the research laboratories where scientific studies of the coffee is made. Here we saw jars of Kopi Luwak parchment. I asked if we could see the animals, and was very pleased with the reply: ‘I doubt it, as we will have to catch one first’. This indicated to me that the animals were not reared in cages. Next morning was another civic reception, this time at the palace of the Regent of Bener Meriah. Speeches of welcome and thanks were given and gifts were exchanged. Stopping on the way to the coffee plantations we visited a nursery where we saw various varieties growing to produce the Gayo 1 and Gayo 2 qualities. For lunch we moved on into the coffee plantations of Kebun Percobaan Gayo. Music was played on flutes and commentators gave a description of the farm. We all met up again in the plantation, escorted by the Regent, the police and many farmers and officials. Here we donned the pickers’ traditional clothing and had a competition between us to see who could pick the most quality cherries in 10 minutes. The nimble hands of Astrid from Hong Kong won, with Sergiiy from Kiev not far behind. Our next task was to plant a tree – a tradition for visitors like ourselves. Each was named and the crop was to go to the local community. Stopping on the way back to Takengon we saw the wide range of crops that are grown, including maize, banana, sweet potato and peanuts, while in a small garden that grew a few coffee trees they also produced chilli, ginger, cassava and oranges. Here Ossy decided to get really into the pulping process and fell into the wet pit of rotting pulp. Pulled out before he was completely covered, he had to shower and was given traditional clothing to make him respectful. A lovely evening was spent at the Regent’s Place where we enjoyed dinner, music and dance. On Friday morning we headed off to Maisir Aman Al’s farm, Kebun Percontohan, which produces 3,500kg/year of Gayo 2 coffee on half a hectare. Lamptora trees with orange, cinnamon
and avocado are used for shade. We then moved onto the Coop, Koperasi Serba Usaha – Gayo Mandiri. Here we received a warm welcome from officials and farmers. The Co-op has 1,300 farmers who bring their coffee for processing and certification. After cupping tests it is sent to Medan for final grading, sorting and bagging before export. We saw all the processing and enjoyed a tasting session before lunch. During the afternoon farewell speeches were made then many goodbyes to the friends that we made in Aceh Tengah and Bener Meriah. The Regent of Bener Meriah accepted his SCAE cap and gave me his turban of office… This enabled me to live up to the title of ‘His Excellency, Sir Colin Smith’ which was given as an introduction at one of the receptions! The next morning the Regent of Aceh Tengah came to the hotel to say goodbye before we undertook the day-long drive back to Banda Aceh through the mountains and the paddy fields. Sunday was our ‘tourist day’, when we visited the Tsunami Museum and sites where ships were driven many kilometres inland. All of us were greatly moved by the devastation and death which had occurred a decade years earlier. With foreign aid much of band Aceh has been rebuilt. Lunch was served at Joels Bungalow on Lampuuk Beach where our hosts, who overheard a passing comment about drinking from coconuts during the trip, arranged for them to be served as we arrived. It illustrates the level of care that we received during our entire visit to Sumatra. Catur Iskandar of the Aceh Investment Coordinating Board gave a farewell speech thanking us for coming to learn about their coffee and forging links between the growers and the consumers. We look forward to meeting again at World of Coffee in Dublin this summer and in Java next year. The evening was spent in a restaurant in Banda Aceh where we gave flowers, gifts and thanks to our wonderful hosts. We left the next day with rich memories the endless rice fields, the rejuvenated Banda Aceh, of Gayo coffee being drip-processed through a sock at arm’s reach and of the friendliness of the Sumatran people – especially Elitta, Beby, Ita, Una and Catur, who made our trip such an enjoyable one.
◆
COLIN SMITH is Organiser of the SCAE Field Trips. Learn more about upcoming tours on scae.com.
JOIN SCAE ON TOUR SCAE is planning field trips to Mexico, East Java and Bali, Brazil and Ethiopia in 2017. To join SCAE on tour, please email our Field Trip Coordinator, Colin Smith, at colin.smyth@smithscoffee.co.uk and stay tuned to scae.com for further details.
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2016 57
QjA
KATIE GILROY
Café owner and World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards judge, KATIE GILROY, began her career as a restaurant reviewer with Totally Dublin magazine before a passion for food lured her into the hospitality business.
What attracted you to coffee? I always loved food and enjoyed eating out, but it wasn’t until I started baking professionally that I got into coffee. Together with my former business partner, I started selling baked goods at the Point Village Market in Dublin in 2010, while I was still writing for Totally Dublin. Our stall was positioned next to Badger & Dodo, the Irish artisan roasters, and it was through them that I started to learn more about coffee and appreciate what good coffee is. When did you get started in the industry? We opened our first café, Urbun, in Cabinteely (a suburb of South Dublin) a year later in 2011. Because I was young – I was 26 – it really didn’t seem as scary as it would now. When I opened my second restaurant, Buckle Up, this year it was a lot more daunting. You’re a lot more nervous when you know what’s involved. The recession was in full swing in Ireland in 2011. Was it tough launching a new business at that time? It was pretty bleak back then. Everyone told us how brave we were to open a new café, but it didn’t really register with us. In one sense, the recession worked in our favour as there were a lot of premises available. I knew the area as I grew up nearby and I knew that there wasn’t much competition around. We were lucky as, from the start, it was so busy. A lot of locals drifted in and on our first day we sold out of everything on the menu. What role did coffee play in Urbun? We started Urbun as a food business which paid a lot of attention to coffee. A lot of restaurants call themselves cafés but they don’t have a good focus on coffee – they don’t invest in training or the right machines. We developed a great relationship with Brock in Badger & Dodo and he has been very supportive. Then we met Vini Arruda and he turned our coffee offering around completely. He brought us to another level. How did Buckle Up come about and what inspired the name? We took over the premises late last year and launched in the spring. The name Buckle Up just popped into my head. It sounded exciting to me. I knew opening another outlet would have its challenges, so it was a way of saying ‘brace yourself, it’s not going to be easy’! Buckle Up is a restaurant rather than a café, but it has the same ethos as Urbun. We care about quality, whether it’s a simple sandwich made with free range chicken in Urbun to Buckle Up where the recipes are a little more complicated. What advice would you offer someone opening a new outlet? You learn each time. I wouldn’t say we do everything perfectly, but we’re learning as we go. You have to make sure you bring the best possible team on board. Don’t be afraid to ask for 58 AUTUMN 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
advice when you’re starting a new business. Look for different perspectives from different people. It’s a learning process. What was it like judging the New Product of the Show Awards at World of Coffee? It was intense and we were on an extremely tight time schedule but it was a brilliant experience. We had the opportunity to get exposure to some very exciting and innovative products that had not yet reached the mass market so I felt very lucky to be in that position. There are a few items that I immediately saw a home for on the shelves at Urbun! What was the standard like this year? The standard was very high. While it was my first time judging the competition, there were three other more experienced judges there who seemed to think the standard rivalled if not exceeded last year's. There is a huge emphasis on technology now so that was a common thread running through most of the categories and then there were just some really simple, well-executed ideas built with the consumer or barista in mind that will potentially make life easier for them without over-complicating things. Overall, I was quite impressed! What did you think of the show? The RDS was absolutely buzzing over the few days and, as an Irish spectator, it was lovely to see such excitement and enthusiasm for the event from my fellow countrymen as well as the overseas visitors. SCAE played a blinder coordinating the whole thing, from the competitions to the schedules and marketing and social events. What was it like to see thousands of coffee pros from around the world arrive in Dublin that week? There was such a diverse group of people all with one thing in common: a love and appreciation for the coffee industry, essentially packed into one room, feeding off each other's energy and adrenalin. It was a special sight and experience for anyone with an interest in coffee, but especially for the Irish, to witness the RDS turn into a world stage and play host to the top talent in the industry. It couldn't have come at a better time either, with so much happening around coffee here in Dublin at present. The event was a huge success and I think the fact that our lovely capital city was the venue, had quite a bit to do with that.
◆
OCTOBER
20-22
THE MOST IMPORTANT BIENNIAL B2B EVENT COVERING ALL SECTORS OF THE ESPRESSO COFFEE INDUSTRY
#triestespresso #triestecapitaledelcaffe
2016
Trieste, Italy www.triestespresso.it
Coffee Industry on show
Eventi Aries Trieste Capitale del CaffèTM Aries Special agency of the Chamber of commerce of Trieste Tel. +39 0406701240 - info@triestespresso.it
Speciality African Coffees from Schluter - Since 1858 -
For all your African coffee needs We stock a full range of speciality coffee from the continent of Africa in store in the UK. We can deliver quantities from single pallets upwards to any destination in the UK, Europe or across the world.
Malawi
Ethiopia
Tanzania
Rwanda
Burundi
Kenya
T: +44 (0)151 498 6500 | E: liverpool@schluter.ch | www.schlutercoffee.co.uk
Cameroon
DRC
Uganda