caféeuropa THE VOICE OF THE SPECIALITY COFFEE ASSOCIATION OF EUROPE
WINTER 2015
THE FUTURE OF COFFEE PLANNING A SUSTAINABLE INDUSTRY
ISSUE 62 BARISTA CAMP 2015 + CHEMICAL COMPOSITIONS
+ SCAE FRANCE + IBRIK CHAMPIONSHIP
LIVE LEARN SHARE DC CAMPUS WHEN
18-19-20/03/2016 WHERE
KANSAS CITY
Info and registrations: info@dallacorte.com
Inside ISSUE 62 | WINTER 2O15
04 Welcome Paul Stack, SCAE President, explains the initiatives SCAE is taking to grow speciality coffee worldwide 06 Community The ‘Who’s Who’ of SCAE 10 Update Latest news from Europe’s coffee community 11 Competitions New rules for Cezve/Ibrik
37
16 Diary Key events for winter 18 Product News Exciting new products from SCAE members 19 Company Profile Coffee Island 20 Research How roast degree, extraction time and temperature affect coffee’s chemical composition 24 Cover Story The future of coffee 28 Origins SCAE in Rwanda 32 Events We report from Barista Camp 2015
32
34 In Conversation AST Simon James 37 At the Bar Barista Danny Calders 38 ASTs Patrick O’Malley, the ‘Passionate Educator’ 43 Chapter Report Postcard from France 44 World of Coffee Building a Legacy 46 The Innovators World of Coffee New Product of the Show Award winners
11
20
54 Q&A SCAE’s Annemarie Tiemes
s Find U
Online
Read the n ition o digital ed m scae.co
46
43 CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 3
WELCOME
Giving a Louder Voice to Speciality Coffee Worldwide
The second Barista Camp was held in Italy in September
A
s the dust settles on the wonderful SCAE World of Coffee event held in Göteborg, Sweden in June, there has been plenty of activity in our speciality coffee world worthy of mention. First, I congratulate the World Champions crowned in Göteborg and offer sincere thanks to the Swedish chapter, the Göteborg World of Coffee working group and the city of Göteborg itself for their excellent hospitality throughout. A standard has been set for World of Coffee Dublin to emulate in June 2016, when we welcome the World Barista Championship back in Europe.
in November in Paris, France. It was a great event with some of the world’s greatest speciality coffee speakers joining as BGE partner with Tamper Tantrum for the second time, after a successful inaugural CoLab, held in Prague earlier this year. SCAE’s membership strategy since 2012 has included the creation of the Barista Guild and subsequently the creation of a Roasters Guild to help better serve our members. A significant step was taken in September to move ever closer to the establishment of a SCAE Roasters Guild. A steering group of European Roasters
SCAE board and senior staff met with their SCAA counterparts to further ongoing discussions. Explorations continue around unification and we will soon be going to you, our members, for your thoughts and feedback around future alignment/unification. Since World of Coffee this June, our barista members have been busy with a host of events. The Barista Guild of Europe (BGE) ran the second Barista Camp in Italy, building on last year’s successful launch with an even better event for the barista community. Well done to all involved. BGE also staged CoLab, which was held 4 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
met in Frankfurt airport to scope a launch event for the Roasters Guild of Europe, pencilled in for late 2016. Watch this space for more on this exciting initiative. On a global scale, as speciality coffee continues to make its presence felt, leading the way on both standards and ethics, the SCAE board and senior staff met
Paul Stack
with their SCAA counterparts to further ongoing discussions around alignment to give an even louder voice and purpose to speciality coffee worldwide. With a huge amount of shared goals and activities, we continue to work closer together on many levels to help push quality coffee forward. Explorations continue around unification and we have surveyed you, our members, for your thoughts and feedback around future alignment/unification. The results are being reviewed and will be available on our website. SCAE’s board and senior staff also held a strategic review in September, where we laid the foundations for focused initiatives to lead SCAE forward for the coming two years. A key focus of our discussions was how we can continue to give members more value and more connectivity than ever before. A strategic plan will be concluded and ratified at our upcoming December 2015 board meeting. Core to our ongoing success as an association is effective management of succession throughout SCAE, from board to committee to executive. SCAE thrives on the talent of its members, its staff and its ‘Super-Volunteers’, being those of you who continue to sit on national committees, SCAE committees, and working groups. Thank you all for your continued generosity of time and spirit. SCAE’s oxygen is its members’ shared passion for speciality coffee and as you continue to share your passion and time for the betterment of speciality coffee, we applaud you. Our latest group of Super-Volunteers is our Barista Guild of Europe Working Group. The election for the incoming BGE Working Group was held this autumn and I congratulate all the excellent candidates who have put their names forward to represent the barista community as part of the BGE Working Group. While wishing the new leadership of the group both success and support as they bring the BGE to the next level, a special note of thanks to the outgoing Working Group, led ably by chair Dale Harris and BGE staff member Isa Verschraegen. Paul Stack President Speciality Coffee Association of Europe
It is that time of the year again...
...when everything around looks, sounds, smells and tastes better!
2015 Harvesting Season
www.accafe.com.br
info@accafe.com.br
SIGNPOST
SCAE BOARD OF DIRECTORS SCAE EXECUTIVE TEAM President Paul Stack (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy), Toby Estates Vice President Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece), W.S. Karoulias Executive Director David Veal (UK), SCAE
Drewry Pearson (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems
Nils Erichsen (Germany), Ube Erichsen Beteiliungs
Heinz Trachsel (Switzerland)
Luigi Morello (Italy), La Cimbali
Ludovic Maillard (France), Maison Jobin
Johan Damgaard (Sweden), Johan & Nyström
Alberto Polojac (Italy), Imperator
Christina Meinl (Austria), Julius Meinl
Frank Neuhausen (Germany), BWT water+more
Chahan Yeretzian (Switzerland), University of Zurich
Patrizia Cecchi (Italy), Rimini Fiera
James Shepherd (UK/Ireland), Beyond the Bean
Dale Harris (UK), Has Bean 6 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
David Veal, Executive Director Membership Team Jayne Richards, Membership Manager Jackie Malone, Chapter Coordinator Isa Verschraegen, BGE Coordinator Alison Wraight, Membership Advisor Leanne Celentano, Membership Coordinator Lewis Young, Data Analyst Lesley Potts, Membership Accounts Clerk Robyn Stevenson, Membership Administrator Anna Barlow, Retention Officer Education Team Susan Hollins, Education Manager Annemarie Tiemes, Education Field Manager Kim Staalman, Education Field Coordinator Owen Thom, Quality Coordinator Megan Guo, Asia Coordinator Aidan Jones, Education Administrator Kay Bennett, Education Administrator Alex Morrell, Education Administrator April Melvin, Education Administrator Events Team Garret Buckley, Events Manager Rebecca Dunwoody, Event Operations Manager Margaret Andreucetti, Exhibition Sales Manager Jens Henrik Thomsen, Sponsorship Coordinator Marketing Team James Humpoletz, Marketing Manager Andra Vlaicu, Marketing Assistant Richard Stiller, Marketing Assistant Keith Amos, Business Development Executive Operations Team David Hewitt, Operations Manager Denise Alborough, Senior Accounts Clerk Ellen Rogers, Accounts Clerk Caroline Newman, Accounts Clerk
SCAE COMMITTEES Membership Committee Yannis Apostolopoulos, Chair Heinz Trachsel, Vice Chair Luigi Morello Tomasz Obracaj Andrew Tolley Tibor Hajcsunk Dale Harris Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos Tibor Varady Isa Verschraegen David Veal Jayne Richards Jackie Malone Education Committee Ludovic Maillard, Chair Paul Stack Paul Meikle-Janney Sonja Björk Grant David Locker Edouard Thomas John Thompson Morten Münchow Panagiotis Konstantinopoulos David Veal Susan Hollins Annemarie Tiemes
SCAE COMMUNITY
Events Committee Patrizia Cecchi, Chair Willem Husiman Grace O’Shaughnessy Anke Erichsen Brita Folmer David Veal Garret Buckley Annemarie Tiemes Marketing Committee Christina Meinl, Chair Johan Damgaard Dale Harris Maurizio Giuli Jörg Krahl David Veal James Humpoletz
Max Fabian (Italy) Nils Erichsen (Germany) Marc Käppelli (Switzerland) Drewry Pearson (Ireland) Cosimo Libardo (Italy)
Storm Xaron C Lunde, e: stormy.post@hotmail.com
World Coffee Events (Jointly Owned By SCAE/SCAA)
POLAND Tom Obracaj, e: tobracaj@btinternet.com
Chair - Mike Yung SCAE Director - David Veal SCAA Director - Ric Reinhart Managing Director - Cindy Ludviksen Treasurer - Drewry Pearson
PORTUGAL Claudia Pimentel, e: claudia.pimentel@aicc.pt
ROMANIA Silvia Constantin, e: silvia@kiruna.ro
NATIONAL COORDINATORS EUROPEAN CHAPTERS
RUSSIA Alexander Tsibaev, e: tsibaev@madian.su
AUSTRIA Günter Stölner, e: office@cimbali.at
SLOVAKIA Tomas Callo, e: cafe@dublincafe.sk
BELGIUM Kathleen Serdons, e: kathleenserdons@gmail.com
SPAIN Elisabet Sereno, e: sereno.elisabet@gmail.com
BULGARIA Nikolay Litov, e: n.litov@ibeco.bg
SWEDEN Erik Rosendahl e: erik@dropcoffee.se
Alberto Polojac, Chair Mick Wheeler Max Fabian Colin Smith Angel Mario Martinez Garcia Inyoung Kim (Anna) David Veal
CZECH REPUBLIC Stepan Neubauer, e: stepanneubauer@gmail.com
SWITZERLAND Marc Käppeli, e: marc.kaeppeli@blasercafe.ch
DENMARK Lene Hyldahl, e: lenehyldahl@gmail.com
TURKEY Aysin Aydogdu, e: info@mambocino.com
Research Committee
FINLAND Viivi Ahtiainen, e: viivi.ahtiainen@gmail.com
UNITED KINGDOM Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, e: dashwoodm@hotmail.com
FRANCE Patrick Mas, e: mas-patrick33@orange.fr
INTERNATIONAL CHAPTERS
Audit Committee Nils Erichsen, Chair Mark Rose David Veal David Hewitt International Development Committee
Chahan Yeretzian, Chair Morten Munchow, Vice Chair Frank Neuhausen Lauro Fioretti Edouard Thomas David Veal
OTHER SCAE ORGANISATIONS SCAE President’s Council President Paul Stack (Ireland) Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy) Vice President Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece) Treasurer Nils Erichsen (Germany) Executive Director David Veal (UK) Drewry Pearson (Ireland) SCAE Ambassadors SCAE has named the following Past Presidents of the Association as its Ambassadors: Alf Kramer (Norway) Patrick Bewley (Ireland) Mick Wheeler (UK) Trygve Klingenberg (Norway) Tomasz Obracaj (Poland) Colin Smith (UK)
GERMANY Peter Muschiol, e: pm@muschiolconsulting.de GREECE Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos, e: info@coffeeisland.gr HUNGARY János Szongoth, e: scaehungary@gmail.com ICELAND Jan-Fredrik Winter, e: jf_winter@hotmail.com IRELAND Alan Andrews, e: alan@coffeeculture.ie ITALY Dario Ciarlantini e: dario.ciarlantini@gmail.com LITHUANIA Darius Vezelis, e: darius.vezelis@gmail.com
SINGAPORE Ross Bright, e: ross.bright@spinellicoffee.com.sg SOUTH KOREA Seongil Choi, e: sungilc@gmail.com
REGIONAL COORDINATORS Sonja Grant, e: sonjagrant@gmail.com Tibor Hajcsunk, e: tibor.hajcsunk@mac.com Heinz Trachsel, e: heinz.trachsel@gmx.net
SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE_Community SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE_Community
NETHERLANDS Peter Eijl, e: peter@doppio-espresso.nl
SCAE_Community
NORWAY
SCAE
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 7
No.62 | Winter 2015
SCAE
Café Europa is the magazine of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe, which is free to members of SCAE. Published quarterly, a digital edition is also available to view and download in the members’ lounge on the website, scae.com.
Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a company limited by guarantee registered in the United Kingdom, Co. Reg. No. 3612500. Copies of the SCAE by-laws are available by written request.
Publisher: Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) Editor: Sarah Grennan Art Director: Mark Nally Marketing Manager: James Humpoletz Advertising: Keith Amos Sub-Editor: Elizabeth MacAulay Contributors: Filip Bartelak, Line Knutsson, Morten Münchow, Inga Schäper, Paul Stack, Andra Vlaicu, Antony Watson Cover Illustration: Mark Nally © Copyright 2015, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe Café Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429 Café Europa (Digital) ISSN 1752-8437 EDITORIAL Articles and contributions by SCAE members are invited; please contact the Editor, Sarah Grennan e: cafeeuropa@scae.com t: +353 87 686 1272 ADVERTISING For information about advertising in Café Europa please contact Keith Amos, SCAE Business Development Executive e: keith@scae.com t: +44 1245 426060 The SCAE Media Pack is available for download on scae.com. SUBSCRIPTIONS The print and digital editions of Café Europa are free to members of SCAE. To join the Association please visit scae.com/members/join-scae.
SCAE, Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bicknacre, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, UK t: +44 1245 426060 | e: info@scae.com | w: scae.com Follow SCAE SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE_Community
SCAE_Community
SCAE_Community
SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE
This publication is produced for SCAE by Crimson Communications, crimsoncommunications.ie. Design by Odin Creative, odincreative.ie. Printing by Metro Commercial Printing, metroprinting.co.uk. Views expressed in Café Europa do not necessarily represent those of its Editor or the publisher, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of all information, SCAE and its agents accept no responsibility for any inaccuracies that may arise. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, including photocopying or storing by any electronic means, is prohibited without the prior permission of SCAE.
JOIN OUR COFFEE COMMUNITY Our vision is to be the authority on delivering coffee excellence. Our mission is to create and inspire excellence in the coffee community through innovation, research, education and communication. Our values are excellence, knowledge, leadership, integrity, communication, competence, education and community. Join us and help us raise coffee standards in Europe and across the world. Learn more about the benefits of membership at www.scae.com or email membership@scae.com
3,000 Members 30
National Chapters
7
World Champions
635
Authorised SCAE Trainers
350
Coffee Diplomas Awarded
35,000 Coffee Diploma System Certificates Issued
17,500
Certified Baristas
17
Years' Experience Inspiring Coffee Excellence
UPDATE
BWT water+more Returns as Headline Sponsor at World of Coffee Dublin Following its successful partnership at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg, SCAE has announced that BWT water+more has been appointed title sponsor of World of Coffee once again in 2016. ‘SCAE’s partnership with BWT water+more is a correct brand fit for World of Coffee,’ says the Association’s Executive Director, David Veal. ‘In our industry we are committed to increasing the level of excellence and standards in coffee service. BWT water+more is an innovative company that is passionate about water and coffee quality and this matches our vision to Inspire Coffee Excellence around the world. Consistency in coffee taste and delivery is also paramount to us and by using the best technologies for water optimisation possible, we can continue to lead the industry from the forefront.’ BWT water+more is looking forward to sponsoring the event in 2016, says Managing Director, Dr Frank Neuhausen. ‘We are all the more delighted to continue our sponsorship of the SCAE event in Dublin in 2016 and will again do all that we can to ensure that World of Coffee is an exciting and inspiring experience for everyone. Providing support for the international barista community remains something that is close to our hearts. And, as the exclusive water supplier for World of Coffee Dublin 2016, we will ensure that participants in the competition enjoy the very best conditions. All competitions at World of Coffee will take place using only water optimised by the filter systems of BWT water+more: the best possible basis for all those winning coffee creations.’
Dr Frank Neuhausen addresses guests at the World of Coffee Welcome Reception in Gothenburg
Additional Opportunities In addition to the headline sponsorship, there are a further promotional opportunities available at World of Coffee Dublin 2016, including sponsorship of: •
Official Country Producer
•
The Village
•
New Product of the Show Awards
•
Excellence Awards
•
Photography Awards
•
Attendee Bag
•
Event App
•
Cupping Room
•
SCAE Education Seminar Area
•
SCAE Lounge
Stands Selling Out With more than 90% of the available stands at World of Coffee Dublin now sold, Europe’s greatest coffee show is going to be bigger than ever in 2016.
Over 90% of the available stands at World of Coffee Dublin are now sold. Image: The Nordic World of Coffee Gothenburg 2015 10 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
blin
u in Du
See Yo
r World Dublin fo June. in E A C Join S 23-25 2016 on ublin.com e e ff o C of ee-d SCAE ldofcoff See wor tails and follow . de tes for more r the latest upda fo socially
Over 10,000 visitors from 100 countries are expected to attend the event at Dublin’s RDS venue on 23-25 June, which will feature the World Barista Championship, World Brewers Cup, Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium, plus a busy programme of educational workshops, seminars, awards and social events. SCAE is excited to bring World of Coffee to Dublin next year, says David Veal. ‘With a thriving coffee culture and an enviable reputation as Europe’s best party city, there is so much going on in Dublin. Dubliners love their coffee and this growing passion for coffee is why we had to come to this exciting city for the first time. In Dublin, we will continue to set trends, push boundaries and lead innovation in this vibrant industry and we look forward to this being the biggest and best event in the show’s history.’ For information about the exhibitor and sponsorship opportunities at World of Coffee Dublin 2016 please visit worldofcoffee-dublin.com or contact: Jens H Thomsen t: +45 3023 8775, e: j.thomsen@scae.com Margaret Andreucetti t: +353 1 846 0020, e: margaret@scae.com
UPDATE
World of Coffee Product Awards Launch in January The World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards, the definitive guide to the hottest new products and services to launch at World of Coffee each year, will open for entries in January. The Awards are open to exhibitors taking part in next year’s World of Coffee in Dublin, Ireland and will celebrate innovation in the categories of: • Best New Professional Coffee Equipment • Best New Consumer Product • Best New Roasters Product • Best New Packaging • Best New IT & Technology Innovation • Best New Food/Non-Coffee Beverage In order to be eligible for entry, products must be new to the market and launched at World of Coffee Dublin, or in the 12 months prior to the event, and must be available to order from exhibitors at the show. The
winning products will be displayed at World of Coffee Dublin and announced at a special awards ceremony during the event. ‘Since they were first introduced at World of Coffee Vienna in 2012, the New Product of the Show Awards have grown to become one of the most popular features at the event each year,’ notes David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE. ‘Judged independently from SCAE by a panel of industry experts, the Awards shine a spotlight on innovators in our industry, profiling the most exciting new products to launch in the last year.’ World of Coffee exhibitors will be notified when the New Product of the Show Awards open in January. For further details, stay tuned to worldofcoffee-dublin.com.
Pictured at the Nordic World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards 2015, sponsored by Wilfa, at the Swedish Exhibition & Congress Centre, Gothenburg, were judges Krister Dahl, Gothia Towers; Jonathan Morris, University of Hertfordshire; Kris Gibson, WMF Group and Steve Lovegrove, Compass Group with Justin Ahn of Cafflano (centre), winner of the Best Domestic Coffee Equipment Award
The Innovators Turn to page 46 to read about this year’s New Product of the Show Awards winners.
WITH BRITA I OFFER GREAT WATER AND THE BEST COFFEE Professional water optimisation from water experts. Experience what great water can do for your business.
Learn more about us and our products www.brita.net
BRITA is the official water filtration sponsor
bri-all-15-1005_ionox_scae_europa_185x128_rz2.indd 1
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER | 11 10.04.15 2015 14:43
UPDATE
Bahia Leads in Cup of Excellence Top two winners of the Pulped Naturals 2015 contest hail from the Highlands of Bahia. Coffee produced by Antonio Rigo de Oliveira in the Highlands of Bahia triumphed ahead of 44 other finalists in the recent Cup of Excellence – Pulped Naturals 2015 contest. A total of 22 winners were selected for honours in the competition, which is organised by the Brazilian Specialty Coffee Association (BSCA) in partnership with the Brazilian Trade & Investment Promotion Agency (Apex-Brazil) and the Alliance for Coffee Excellence (ACE), and sponsored by the Brazilian Service of Support to Micro & Small Enterprises (Sebrae). From an entry of 364 lots, Antonio Rigo de Oliveira’s coffee, which he produces in the São Judas Tadeu Chakra in Piatã, Diamantina Plateau, came out on top – impressing with 91.22 points. It was a family celebration for Antonio, who is father-in-law of second-placed Cândido Rosa and 12th-placed Zora Yonara Macedo Pina Oliveira. ‘We have a small team of 15 employees who work with us in three properties throughout the year and is responsible for much of this success. Since our first achievement in the Cup, we made sure to share the prizes: each employee has won a motorcycle. This year, depending on the result of the auction, the prizes will be even better,’ says Antonio Rigno, responsible for the family’s production process. ‘Our family has this
[success] because we love coffee above all, and this love is reflected in the quality of our product.’ A total of seven producing origins were represented by the 22 winners of the Cup of Excellence – Pulped Naturals 2015 contest: origin indication of the Mantiqueira Mountains in Minas Gerais; the Diamantina Plateau, in the Highlands of Bahia; Origin indication of the Pioneer North of Paraná; Mountains of Espírito Santo; South of Minas Gerais; the Woods of Minas Gerais; and Medium Mogiana in São Paulo. The multitude of origins featured highlights Brazilian producers' focus on quality, which has evolved with the competition, believes Vanusia Nogueira, national coordinator of the competition. ‘The Cup of Excellence was born in 1999 in Brazil and, since then, it has been writing a beautiful contribution story to the coffee chain, particularly the producers, with encouragement of best cultivation and especially the high aggregation of value to their product,’ she says. Underlining that Brazil is the largest and most sustainable coffee producer in the world, Silvio Leite, president of the Brazil Specialty Coffee Association, adds: ‘In this sense, the actions by BSCA together with Apex-Brazil, ACE and Sebrae in the Cup of Excellence is crucial for the international
buyers and tasters to get to know the sustainability of our production, with respect for the environment and society, and to acknowledge the diversity and quality of the coffees we offer – factors that, together, make Brazil the nation of coffee.’ The auction of the 22 winners of the Cup of Excellence – Pulped Naturals 2015 took place as Café Europa went to press. For results and further information please see bsca.com.
Images: Courtesy of BeanScene 12 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
UPDATE
Helsinki Coffee Festival Returns
BGE Working Group Announced
Preparations are underway to stage Finland’s biggest coffee event, the Helsinki Coffee Festival, in the capital next March. Following the success of the inaugural event in 2015, which gathered more than 3,000 coffee lovers at the former boiler hall, Kattilahalli, in Helsinki, the organisers are hoping to attract up to 5,000 visitors in 2016. ‘We want to raise awareness of quality coffee in Finland and convince people to enjoy quality more than quantity when it comes to coffee,’ explains Maija Kestilä, the event organiser. ‘We want to bring SCAE’s competitions to a bigger audience and our mission is to develop a better coffee culture in Finland, bringing all coffee professionals together under the same roof at our event. Our slogan is, “After spring’s hottest event you will know everything about coffee”.’ The 2016 event will include the National Barista Championship and Brewers Cup, organised by SCAE Finland.
Baristas from across Europe have cast their votes in the Barista Guild of Europe Working Group elections. Following a two-week election process, conducted via online survey, the following members have been voted onto the working group: Chair – Tibor Várady, Hungary Communications Coordinator – Tim Willems, Belgium Community Coordinator – Alex Passmore, UK Education Coordinator – Ben Townsend, UK Events Coordinator – Sam Sullivan, UK Finance & Partnership Coordinator – Hannah Davies, UK Membership Coordinator – Danny Calders, Belgium The BGE Working Group will be supported by Past-Chair, Dale Harris, and BGE Executive, Isa Verschraegen. For more information on BGE, visit baristaguildofeurope.com
Have Your Say The new BGE Working Group are planning activities for 2016 and are eager to receive feedback from members, including suggested locations for Barista Camp and CoLab. Please send your ideas to hello@baristaguildofeurope.com.
C
Baristas Support Paris
M
Y
CM
BGE’s second CoLab event took place in Paris the week after the tragic attacks in the French capital. The event, which focuses on connecting a local community with the international barista scene through workshops and activities that celebrate the host city’s culture and coffee scene, featured visits to Télescope and Coutume Instituutti, plus cuppings, lectures and more. ‘Despite the unfortunate recent events in Paris we felt the best thing to support the Parisian community was to keep the event and – based on the positive reactions – we're glad we did,’ said BGE Executive, Isa Verschraegen. ‘Thank you to all who celebrated Parisian coffee with us, as well as to all our partners making CoLab: Paris a great success: fellow hosts FrogFight and Tamper Tantrum, equipment partners Bunn and Conti, as well as our coffee and media partners.’ A full report on CoLab: Paris will feature in the Spring 2015 issue of Café Europa. MY
CY
CMY
K
THE SP9. EFFORTLESS EXCEPTIONAL COFFEE BY THE CUP marcobeveragesystems.com
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 13
COMPETITIONS
New Rules for Cezve/Ibrik FILIP BARTELAK of the Cezve/Ibrik Working Group reports on the changes to the rules and regulations of the World Cezve/Ibrik Championship.
C
ezve and ‘classical’ ibrik are among the best-known methods of preparing coffee and the World Championship, which will next take place at Gulfood in Dubai in February 2016, was established to promote and excel this special preparation. SCAE wishes to reward those who use this method properly and, in the process, promote high-quality coffee around the world. Recently we decided to review the existing rules and regulations of this championship and we came to the conclusion that some changes are necessary in order to properly evaluate the preparation process and the quality of beverages served. Our intention was to keep the familiar language and modus operandi of the competition in order to make this championship friendlier and more accessible. We have decided to keep the same table setup as other competitions to avoid creating problems with hardware for future organisers of the event. Simple cezve/ibrik coffee is to be served as an obligatory category and parameters of its evaluation are similar to ones used by the World Barista Championship (WBC) for espresso. We want to focus on taste balance, tactile and flavour. We will keep the same rigorous, clear explanation of flavour profile for simple cezve/ibrik, as in WBC rules, in order to focus closely on promoting highquality coffee that should be used by baristas. We will score highly the accuracy of the description given with cup profile, but only when the quality of beverage is high. Since simple cezve/ibrik coffees are usually very hot when served, we have decided to move the order of serving coffees so that simple cezve/ibrik coffee will be served as the last beverage during the presentation and judges will be allowed to evaluate it (on stage or backstage) fully after competition time elapses. This rule was inspired by the Brewers Cup competition, when most beverages served are too hot to be evaluated during the barista’s presentation time and judges take their beverages backstage with them. We have also decided to change simple cezve/ibrik coffee definition so that there is no obligatory napkin and saucer – those elements missing will affect technical evaluation.
14 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
World Cezve/Ibrik Champion Davide Berti (Italy) is pictured competing at the 2015 Championship in Athens
For both simple and signature beverages we have decided that all of them need to be prepared separately for each judge in order to demonstrate the barista’s skills. Competitors will not have to prepare three sets of beverages, only two. The reason for this is that we want to give competitors more time to precisely explain during their presentation the process, ingredients, technique and connection to the coffee they chose. The purpose of this is to make this championship more attractive to the audience who will be able to learn about the tradition or new recipes and techniques of brewing coffee with the use of cezve or traditional ibrik. Competitors are awarded for preparing and serving all of their ingredients during their presentation, and for making it very clear to judges and audience what their ingredients are, how they were prepared and why they use them in combination with the chosen coffee. For the signature beverage we have included a score for ‘well explained and introduced’ – just as it is in WBC rules. There
is one exception, however, the ‘preparation’ part is evaluated by technical rather than sensory judges (as is the case in WBC) as in our opinion only technical judges can have closer look at the preparation. Technical judges will focus on preparation, cleanliness, workflow, use of tools and accessories while sensory judges will evaluate sensory experiences, professionalism, hospitality skills and attention to detail. This means each category will be evaluated separately. If the beverage is not prepared properly from a technical point of view this will not affect sensory evaluation but will only be evaluated by technical judges. In doing this we wanted to empower more technical judges and at the same time allow sensory judges to give feedback on actual sensory experiences, which can be exceptional. The competitor will be able to choose if he wants to deliver the signature or the traditional beverage. Both of them will have different definitions so that creativity will be scored only in the signature beverage category. The competitor who chooses to perform traditional beverage will be evaluated on his mastery of skills. We, the working group, truly hope that new rules will make this competition more attractive and accessible for baristas who had no experience with this brewing method. By unifying evaluation standards we will make this competition easier to evaluate by judges experienced in other barista competitions.
◆
CLICK FOR MORE: Download the new rules and regulations on ibrikchampionship.org
est
d’s B e Worl See th Action in
zve/Ibrik World Ce ip 2016 nsh Champio bruary 21-25 Fe , Dubai Gulfood
SIGNPOST
REMEMBER WHEN VIDEO GAMES WERE GOOD AND BRAZILIAN COFFEE WAS NOT? Daterra farms have taken excellence to the next level.
2015 CROP COMING SOON! For information and samples contact: www.drwakefield.com | www.fincasdecafe.es
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 15
DIARY
5-6 December
Event Guide 26-30 January
12-14 February
Ukraine Brewers Cup, Coffee Roasting, Cup Tasters and Latte Art Championships Ukraine scae.com
Sweden Barista, Coffee Roasting, Cup Tasters, Latte Art, Coffee Roasting Championships and Brewers Cup scae.se
Switzerland Barista and Latte Art Championships St. Gallen, Switzerland swissscae.ch
14 January
29-31 January
12-15 February
Switzerland Coffee in Good Spirits Championship Bern, Switzerland swissscae.ch
Czech Republic Barista Championship and Brewers Cup scae.com
Greece Barista, Latte Art and Cofee in Good Spirits Championships HORECA Coffee Events, Athens, Greece scae.com
15-17 January
31 January
16-17 February
Greece Cup Tasters and Cezve/ Ibrik Championship scae.com
Belgium Coffee in Good Spirits and Latte Art Championships scae.com
Ireland Barista Championship and Brewers Cup Food & Bev Live, Dublin, Ireland scae.ie
23 January
5 February
21 February
Slovakia Brewers Cup and Latte Art Championship Banskรก Bystrica, Slovakia scae.com
Finland Cup Tasters Championship scae.fi
Belgium Brewers Cup scae.com
23-27 January
12-14 February
21-25 February
Italy Barista, Coffee Roasting, Coffee in Good Spirits, Cup Tasters, Latte Art Championships SIGEP, Rimini, Italy scaeitalia.com
Belarus Barista and Cup Tasters Championships scae.com
World Cezve/Ibrik Championship Gulfood, Dubai, UAE gulfood.com
24-26 January
12-14 February
26-28 February
France Barista, Coffee in Good Spirits, Latte Art Championships Sirah, Lyon, France scaefrance.org
Denmark Barista, Coffee in Good Spirits, Cup Tasters, Latte Art Championships and Brewers Cup scae.dk
Lithuania Barista, Latte Art and Cupping Championship scae.com
know Let us event. your about
Email ae.com c s @ g n i t marke
16 WINTER 2015 | CAFร EUROPA
E F E F ! O C F O E T S A T L A E R E H T R FO
Perfect coffee from the only ECBC approved single cup brewer!
www.technivorm.com
PRODUCT NEWS
The Little Machine with Big Ideas Dalla Corte’s new one-group espresso machine, Mina, features a number of innovations, including a new lever yoke. Baristas can customise their coffee through the manual control of each extraction stage. As the lever yoke is lowered, water flowing to the coffee cake is brought to 9 bar, allowing baristas to adjust the extraction until they achieve the desired results. Operators can then repeat the procedure accurately for each shot, or adjust and save custom settings for different coffees and blends. Mina’s DFR (Digital Flow Regulation) system, developed by Dalla Corte’s R&D department with patent pending, provides electronic water flow control during each single extraction stage. ‘In fact, pre-infusion water starts flowing at zero bar and the opening degree of the water valve can be pre-set digitally with graduations of one-hundredth of a millimetre to provide maximum precision in water flow throughout the extraction process,’ explains the company. Fully-customisable, the back and side panels can be finished in a variety of materials, colours and styles, including the standard matte black, white and yellow colours, wooden, metal and glass materials and in opaque or transparent, matte or gloss finish. The Mina will be available in early 2016. Download product sheets and learn more at dallacorte.com.
No Fuss Hopper Cleaner Equipment cleaning specialist, Puly Caff, expanded its range of ‘green’ products when it launched the new Puly Grind Hopper at Host in Milan. The Puly Grind Hopper cleans hoppers and dosing units – an essential task to maintain the quality of your espresso. Easy to use, after removing solid residues simply spray the product onto a clean cloth and wipe surfaces until they are clean and dry. Made with natural ingredients, the PulyGrind Hopper can also be used to clean and sanitise stainless steel surfaces and chromed equipment. For more, visit pulycaff.com.
18 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Social Network for Coffee Lovers The Top Café is a new social network designed to operate like a Michelin Guide for coffee. Similar to Foursquare, the app allows you to search for coffee shops in the area, check in at cafés, assess the coffee and upload a photo, and share your experience with users on the platform and via other social media. Designed by a team of Spanish baristas and marketing experts, the app went live in November and can be downloaded via the App Store and Google Play. For a demo, see thetopcafe.com.
COMPANY PROFILE
Greek Odyssey Greek coffee chain, Coffee Island, headed by CEO Konstantinos Kostantinopolous, winner of the Young Entrepreneur Award at the 2015 SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A, roasts more than 720 tonnes of speciality coffee a year which it serves in its network of 272 shops. CHRYSA SAFRA tells us more about the company. THE BEGINNING Coffee Island was founded in 1999 when its first coffee shop opened in Greece. Since then the company have developed a strong franchise network listing 272 stores in Greece and Southeast Europe. In 2009 the company started operating abroad with the first Coffee Island store in Nicosia and soon developed a strong franchise network in Cyprus, which is constantly growing. Currently the Coffee Island network in Cyprus operates 38 coffee shops. Coffee Island is an active member of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) and Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA). THE MODEL Coffee Island is a smooth compilation of the modern espresso bar and the traditional coffee-grinder’s shop. The Coffee Island coffee shop aims to offer consumers a great experience of speciality coffee on the espresso bar, a great range of coffee blends and a variety of home barista equipment. The quality of coffee, from the
bean to the cup, is based on both green coffee and proven expertise of Coffee Island baristas. The shops have a unique architecture and atmosphere. THE COFFEE Coffee Island sources its coffee directly from farmers around the world. The company invests in the green coffee that is roasted in the production unit and works directly with the farmer to ensure that the coffee beans are delivered to the production unit at SCAA Q-Graders’ level, offering the most complete coffee experience. Through this direct model, based on the respect and the relationships built up with individual producers in coffee producing countries, Coffee Island creates sustainable long-term agreements. THE PROJECT Coffee Island addresses social issues, working to improve working conditions and improve the environment. People on the other side of the world, with great effort and passion, take care of the coffee that Coffee Island uses.
Coffee Island created the MicroFarm project to provide limited amounts of speciality (SCAA 86+) coffee (limited edition) from specific farms around the world for use both in the espresso bar and for making beverages at home. THE ORIGINS Coffee Island is always committed to offer a perfectly engineered coffee to every single consumer and we keep challenging ourselves by bringing coffee from around the world. From Guatemala to Brazil, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Rwanda and Colombia, Coffee Island delivers speciality coffee to every coffee lover.
coffeeisland.gr
@CoffeeIslandCo CoffeeIsland coffee_island_official
via Caboto, 31 34147 Trieste Italy info@demus.it www.demus.it CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 19
RESEARCH
THREE VARIABLES IN ONE CUP
LINE KNUTSSON from the University of Copenhagen, Denmark and CoffeeMind’s MORTEN MÜNCHOW investigated how roast degree, extraction time and temperature affect coffee’s chemical composition.
20 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
T
he chemistry behind the creation of chemical compounds that gives coffee its complex spectra of aroma and flavour is a combination of many intricately-related factors. Grind size, extraction time and brewing temperature all have a role to play in our enjoyment of a ubiquitous beverage that, worldwide, is consumed at a rate of more than 500 billion cups a year. But although the composition of coffee varies greatly from country to country, and region to region, there is one particular process that has a profound effect on its sensory qualities. A study by Line Knutsson from University of Copenhagen, Denmark, in cooporation with Morten Münchow from CoffeeMind, into the effects of roasting degree, extraction time and temperature on coffee’s composition has revealed the extent to which the roasting process plays a vital role in the
RESEARCH were ground using a mill and a 1.5mm filter resulting in relatively fine particles that correspond to a medium grind size between espresso and filter coffee. In total, 60 samples were analysed using highly sensitive techniques including Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) and Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) to identify the known components present in coffee. In sensory terms, NMR analyses the liquid part of the coffee, representing our sense of taste while GC-MS represents the olfactory system or sense of smell. Knutsson identified a whole host of chemical compounds including caffeine, chlorogenic acid, formic acid, acrylamide, trigonelline, sucrose, quinic, and acetic acid amongst others in coffee’s soluble liquid state. Similarly, a large number of volatile aromatic compounds such as pyrazines, furans and pyrroles created from the Maillard reaction were also present in the samples analysed. The study also found a marginal difference in the coffee’s composition between 70°C, 85°C and 95°C. Similarly, different extraction times from one to 15 minutes showed that there was an impact on the concentration of aromatic substances in the samples but, overall, only a few compounds were influenced by longer extraction times. The research shows how the extent of roast degree can have a marked difference on the chemical composition of coffee, particularly the concentration of fatty lipids and carbohydrates. Under spectromic analysis, the study found that all coffee samples consisted of acrylamide, asparagine, acetic acid, chlorogenic acid, caffeine, myo-inositol, N-methylpyridine, sucrose, trigonelline, quinic acid and 5-HMF. In addition to these compounds, the samples contained various acids such as citric, malic and lactic acid. There were also peaks in concentration of various carbohydrates such as mannose, galactose and arabinose compounds, as well as phenol, vanillin and other coffee lipids; all products of methyl and methylene molecules from the fatty acid chains formed during the Maillard reaction.
formation of a coffee's complex chemical composition. Commonly known as the Maillard reaction – the chemical process by which reactions occur between the amino acids (proteins) and small sugars at elevated temperatures, the study found that brewing at different temperatures (70°C, 85°C and 95°C) and extraction time (one, three, five, seven and 15 minutes) doesn’t necessarily precipitate further chemical change, rather, it is about the degree of concentration by which compounds are extracted from the freshly roasted coffee beans. Using a washed geisha varietal grown on Las Margaritas farm, Colombia, that offers a lively acidity, creamy body, and notes of orange, mandarin, chocolate and caramel, Knutsson roasted three 1kg batches of differing roast degrees – from light, medium to dark. The three sample roasts followed the same profile with only time and final temperature varying. All samples
Flavour Analysis Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) is a spectroscopic analytic method to find the chemical structure, spatial form and electronic structure of specific molecules in its liquid or solid state. Using this form of analysis, several of the compounds that play a major role in coffee’s flavour were identified. For example, chlorogenic acid (CGA) is a polyphenol antioxidant that occurs mostly in green beans and gives a sharp, undesirable vegetal flavour. The analysis showed that concentrations of CGA are smoothed out during the roasting process, becoming less concentrated in darker roasts. As chlorogenic acid is degraded during the Maillard reaction, it converts into quinic and nicotinic acid among others which are predominant in roasted coffee. The study also confirmed that different roasting degrees have a profound effect on the coffee’s composition with the exception of caffeine and trigonelline – both relatively stable compounds that can contribute to the bitter taste in coffee. Coffee Composition: Raw Data from NMR Analysis The study underscores the significant difference in the chemical composition of green and roasted beans as well as the impact of roasting degree on the concentration of sucrose compounds. This is consistent with the understanding that sucrose degrades into a wide range of Maillard products during the roasting process, leading to the creation of volatile aromatic compounds. As sucrose compounds are broken down, they give rise to the formation of 5-HMF, formic and acetic acids which were observed to be of higher concentration in light roasted beans, and are then degraded further by roasting. It was also observed that green beans do not contain concentrated amounts of trigonelline which is formed during »
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 21
RESEARCH
lighter roasts. The chemical analysis shows that degradation of trigonelline leads to the formation of N-methylpyridine. In terms of brew time and temperature, it was observed that trigonelline is formed over longer extraction times and at higher temperatures. As caffeine is one of the most representative molecules in coffee – because it is found in relatively high concentration, is thermo-stable and thus not degraded – it can be expected that the longer extraction time, the more caffeine is present due to its solubility. According to a review of literature, the concentration of caffeine does not significantly change during roasting, but depends more on coffee species. However, the study illustrates that there is a tendency for clustering of the caffeine compound relative to the roasting degree. It appears that there is more caffeine in light roasted beans, after which the amount of caffeine decreases with a darker roast. Although there is a difference in the caffeine content relative to roasting,
it was difficult to see a pattern in concentration levels over prolonged extraction times. Aroma Analysis Samples from light, medium and dark roasted coffee were extracted for one, three, five and 15 minutes respectively for aroma analysis. Knutsson used a highly sensitive technique of Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) to identify and quantify the volatile and semi-volatile organic components. Overall, 73 different substances were identified. These substances were aldehydes, alcohols, esters, furans, pyrroles and pyrazines amongst others. In particular, it is the presence of pyrazines that play an important role in the aromatic qualities of coffee. Knutsson found that there are observable differences in the concentration of substances according to each variable change in roast degree, extraction time and brew temperature. For
90000000 80000000 70000000 60000000 50000000 40000000 30000000 20000000 10000000 0
MØRK
22 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
LYS
RESEARCH most substances, higher concentrations of pyridines, furans and pyrazines in darker roasted than lighter roasted beans were identified. In shorter extraction times, greater concentrations of 2-furfuryl formate were present while longer extraction times yielded higher concentrations of 3-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-methyl-1-pentanol, benzaldehyde, isoprenol and N-hexanal. In sensory terms, formate and furfuryl acetate gives a fruity aroma when perceived by the olfactory system while benzaldehyde suggests an almond-like aroma that is more consistent with darker roasted coffee. Aromatic Analysis Both spectroscopic methods reveal a clear correlation between roasting degree and the concentration of chemical and volatile aromatic compounds in coffee. However, there were no changes observed in the majority of compounds identified when the extraction time was varied with the exception of eight specific compounds. These were higher levels of 2-furfuryl formate, 3,4-dihydropyran and furfuryl acetate in shorter brew times while greater concentrations of N-hexanal, isoprenol, benzaldehyde and 3-methyl-benzaldehyde were identified when the extraction time was extended. Conclusion The research highlights the role of the Maillard reaction as the prime factor in the formation of hundreds of chemical and volatile compounds present in coffee. Knutsson concludes that the research into both the aroma and liquid phase of coffee using GC-MS and NRM techniques shows that roasting degree is vital to accelerating the formation of the chemical ingredients that characterises the complexity of an individual coffee’s character.
By comparing the different concentrations of substances influenced by three variables, the study reveals that roast degree has the most significant impact in the chemical composition of the overall cup profile. Although extraction time and temperature were assessed, the significance of these variables was too small and vague to be able to make a definitive conclusion. However, there is a tendency that a longer extraction time and higher temperatures do yield a higher concentration of soluble chemical compounds present in coffee. As far as volatile aromatic compounds are concerned, only a small number of compounds were affected by extraction time. Although it cannot be concluded if shorter brewing times and lower temperatures can be modulated for optimum commercial use – thereby achieving energy savings and a reduction in environmental impact – choosing the correct roasting degree to enhance the desired concentration of amino acids and chemical compounds during the Maillard reaction is complex process that we are only truly beginning to fully understand.
◆
CLICK FOR MORE: This report and other research documents commissioned by SCAE are available for members to download on scae.com. MEET MAILLARD More than a century ago, the French physician and chemist Louis Camille Maillard studied the complex reactions that take place between amino acids and carbohydrate sugar compounds. In 1912, he published a paper that first described this important phenomenon that takes place in the cooking of foodstuffs – and indeed our own bodies. In doing so, he prepared the way for our understanding of the browning process that gives culinary products – including coffee – its desirable colour, flavour and complexity of aroma.
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 23
THE FUTURE OF COFFEE PLANNING A SUSTAINABLE INDUSTRY
COVER STORY
Price volatility, stock shortages, currency fluctuations, societal issues and the omniscient threat of climate change leave the world’s best-loved beverage and second most traded commodity in a challenging position. As we face into a new year, Café Europa looks at the future of coffee and asks how we can plan for a more sustainable industry. SARAH GRENNAN reports. Illustration by MARK NALLY.
T
he taxi driver whisking me from Stansted Airport to SCAE HQ in the UK is grumbling about the price of his morning cup of Joe, which has increased by 30 pence in his local café. ‘The papers say it’s going to go higher,’ he fumes, nodding to the tabloid on the passenger seat beside him. ‘It’s the drought in Brazil that’s caused all the trouble,’ he asserts, as he launches into a tirade on climate change. The reality, as readers will know, is more complex, with social and economic issues also influencing price. However, there is no doubt that Brazil’s drought – the worst since records began – has had an impact on the fortunes of the world’s second most traded commodity, and it is an all too powerful reminder of the damage climate change can wreak on every aspect of the chain, from farmers to consumers. With up to 30% of the Brazilian crop damaged by last year’s drought, the planet’s largest coffee producer was forced to raid the storeroom to meet demand and surpluses accumulated in previous years of bountiful crops have now been obliterated. As Mauricio Galindo, the former Head of Operations at the International Coffee Organization (ICO), noted in his Re:co Symposium presentation in Gothenburg this June, ‘this means that we are in a much more vulnerable spot today if we are to have a climatic event like we did last year.’ The damage to the 2014 crop, while severe, did not have a huge impact on the market, he added. ‘Yes, prices went up, no doubt, but we never felt that the supply chain was being profoundly disrupted and that was thanks to those stocks. Well those stocks are gone and we no longer have that cushion. That means that if we have any of » CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 25
COVER STORY ‘We started the project in November 2013 and finished in November 2015 so we had to pack a five-year study into two years. It is the most indepth study of its kind and we’re currently in the process of finalising the outputs,’ explains Aaron. A summary report, due to publish in January, will feature six major outcomes of climate change in Ethiopia and a list of recommendations on how to counteract them. The strategy will provide the understanding and awareness required to sustain the Ethiopian coffee industry in relation to climate change, land-use, and the coffee value-chain, to identify what is needed to ensure climate resilience. those shocks now in any of the top five producers then we will have a very different scenario. We would most likely have a price hike that would be extreme and very, very fast.’ Despite the grumblings of the taxi driver, and reports in the media, prices have, however, remained keen in recent years. As one market analyst, who spoke to Café Europa off the record, noted: ‘Prices have generally been very low and they are in the lower 10% of the five-year range. This is due to the strength of the dollar and the weakness of the Brazil economy, where the Real has gone through the floor. While climate change is something that could potentially have an impact in the future, it is not affecting prices at the moment. But in five, 10, 20 years down the road there is no doubt that it could have a significant impact.’ Dr Aaron Davis, Senior Research Leader in Plant Resources at the UK’s Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, believes that prices are only going to go one way however – up – and droughts like the recent one in Brazil will be a major culprit. ‘I remember the coffee crisis in the 1970s when coffee prices were astronomical because of frost. No one talks about frost anymore – drought is the new frost.’ Aaron and fellow researchers at Kew Gardens, you may recall, caused a veritable storm in an espresso cup in 2012 when they asserted that wild coffee could potentially become extinct in Ethiopia by the close of the century. ‘When we published that paper it went a bit crazy, partly because the media got the story wrong,’ says the botanist and coffee biologist. ‘While we said coffee could become extinct we didn’t say it would be. We did note, however, that coffee production would be badly impacted by climate change.’ What surprised Aaron most, aside from the acres of sensational headlines garnered in media across the globe, was the response. ‘We kept getting asked what we could do about it. That surprised us, we weren’t expecting that question, we just published the results of the research project.’ It was a salient question and in the aftermath of the report the researchers were handed a grant to study production in coffee’s native origin. The project – Building a Climate Resilient Coffee Economy for Ethiopia – is a Climate Institutions Programme (SCIP) programme funded by the SCIP Fund, a DFID/Norway/ Denmark-backed fund designed to build Ethiopia’s capacity to cope with climate change across the public, private and civil society sectors and to respond to the challenges of transitioning to a climate resilient green economy. Following two years of intensive study, the researchers are on the cusp of publishing their results and recommendations. Future-Proofing Coffee Building a Climate Resilient Coffee Economy for Ethiopia aims to provide a climate resilient coffee economy strategy for the country, based on a rigorous assessment of climate change’s influence on coffee producing areas and wild coffee forests. Spanning two years, the climate change assessment included high-resolution mapping, climate change modelling, extensive ground-truthing, farmer interviews, and climate monitoring, conducted during 14 expeditions to Ethiopia where researchers travelled over 30,000 kilometers to find solutions to coffee’s greatest threat – the changing climate.
26 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
‘As well as setting out a strategy, we are producing a coffee atlas of Ethiopia, detailing where the forest is, where the suitable coffee growing areas are and so on. It will be a logistics tool for people in the industry and the NGO community and will pinpoint vulnerable areas. This is important, particularly in Ethiopia, where there are very few maps available,’ says Aaron. Although climate change is a very real threat to the coffee industry, he believes that much can be done to address the problem. ‘It’s about making the right investment. You need to know what you need to do, when you need to do it and where. We see investments that are being made in Ethiopia which are not good investments. You need good science, you need good analysis, to know where to spend the money. ‘There is no doubt about it, coffee will be negatively impacted by climate change, but where there will be threats there will also be some opportunities. For some, the future will be better. This is a very, very important strategy. It aims to help policymakers and investors in Ethiopia make the right decision. If you do that, it won’t take you long to recoup your investment. You only need to make a few good decisions to adapt to climate change. There have been bad decisions made in the past, particularly in tea, and if you don’t make the right decisions then you won’t adapt to what is coming down the line.’ Can the Ethiopia report be the genesis for similar strategies in other countries? ‘The trouble if you do a global analysis is that it really doesn’t tell you very much. Each of the top producing countries needs analysis and they need a plan. There is a potential to adapt to climate change, but it depends on how far production countries will go. Adaption costs money.’ The Speciality Coffee Community’s Role Dr Aaron Davis believes that the speciality coffee community can be a leader at the frontline of the battle on climate change. ‘There are great opportunities for the speciality sector to really get engaged with this. If you make good interventions you can make great coffee. Speciality coffee can be a champion. Speciality roasters are prepared to pay more, they want direct links to farmers and they are committed to helping farmers improve their product,’ he says. ‘The most important thing to realise about climate change is that you can’t just get upset about it. You have to do something about it.’ Roaster and SCAE board member, Johan Damgaard, believes that climate change is the biggest issue facing the industry now and in the future. ‘If we can all agree that the climate is the major challenge, we will probably see a lot of opportunities as a result of our efforts to come up with more resistant species, hybrids and
COVER STORY ideas. People will keep on drinking coffee as long as we can farm. And we will always find new ways to produce coffee,’ he explains. ‘We will see more sustainable actions, from origin to machines and brewing methods.’ It’s not too late to tackle climate change, Johan advises. ‘It’s not only a coffee matter, but we can lead the way. Let’s be honest, how many of the speciality roasters in the world have
to move coffee away from the commodity segment and keep prices for the coffee producers high enough to ensure proper maintenance of the coffee trees and we need to keep creating awareness for quality, speciality coffees.’ Growing awareness and standards of speciality coffee while supporting a more sustainable industry is a top item on the SCAE agenda, reports Executive Director, David Veal. ‘We are
‘There is no doubt about it, coffee will be negatively impacted by climate change, but where there will be threats there will also be some opportunities. You only need to make a few good decisions to adapt to climate change. There have been bad decisions made in the past, particularly in tea, and if you don’t make the right decisions then you won’t adapt to what is coming down the line.’
a sustainable policy? We are small companies trying to spread some quality and we have a hard time trying to survive. But that is something that perhaps we can do at SCAE – help members to become more sustainable. Create tools to follow. Certify us.’ Ludovic Maillard, Chair of the SCAE Education Committee, believes that education can be an effective weapon in the fight against climate change. ‘Educating at origin is part of the solution,’ says Ludovic, who recently took part in SCAE’s pilot project to educate members of the coffee community in Rwanda (see page 28). ‘We need to educate farmers, teach them how changing their processing practices and using water can make a difference. We are working closely with SCAA and the Coffee Quality Institute, ensuring that we have a common voice, and we are also working hand-in-hand with the ICO. SCAE has a part to play on the ground, and on the political side.’ While one part of SCAE’s remit is to encourage consumers to drink better coffee, Ludovic notes that the more successful the speciality coffee sector becomes, the more pressure it will put on supply. ‘The more consumers you get, the more coffee you need and with the impact that climate change has on coffee – particularly arabica – we have to face the fact that we will have more robusta in the future. If you only want to drink 86+ coffee, then you will have a problem. We have to adapt. There are big factories, in Germany for instance, that are trying new processing methods for robusta where they are treating them to become less bitter.’ But while the increasing popularity of speciality coffee will put pressure on supply, it will also incentivise farmers to invest in their coffee, argues SCAE board member Christina Meinl. ‘We need
all privileged to work in an industry which is vibrant, growing, innovative and exciting, and we often celebrate the positive side of speciality coffee through great events, competitions, new brewing methods and discovering that fantastic new coffee with exciting flavour notes. But of course there is the other side of our industry, and some of the concerns and challenges that we all face are well documented here. I visited Aaron Davies at Kew a couple of years ago, and the work he is doing is at the same time exciting, impressive, and scary.’ Like Aaron, David believes that the speciality coffee community can play an important role in the fight for a sustainable coffee world. ‘At SCAE we are committed to being at the forefront of the work to try to alleviate and eradicate some of the issues, either through our own initiatives or in partnership with others. We are just about to publish our sustainability plan, are already working in several producing countries, most recently Rwanda, we are supporting partner initiatives around the world, and we are investing more and more resources into research, as well as, of course, education. So there is much to celebrate, but there are many challenges that as a community we must not hide from or ignore.’
◆
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 27
ORIGINS
EDUCATING RWANDA A new pilot project introduced by SCAE’s International Development Committee (IDC) saw two of the Association’s top educators travel to Rwanda to educate coffee professionals in the East African nation. IDC Chair, ALBERTO POLOJAC, talked to Café Europa about the Committee’s endeavours to support coffee communities at origin and build a sustainable coffee industry.
G
ender equality and age balance were top of the agenda when SCAE’s International Development Committee began planning the Association’s first project in origins this year. ‘Our main focus is sustainability,’ says Alberto Polojac, the Authorised SCAE Trainer (AST) and IDC Chair, who travelled to Rwanda with fellow AST and Chair of SCAE’s Education Committee, Ludovic Maillard, in August to provide sensory and green coffee training. ‘For our pilot programme we wanted to train people working in coffee’s origins. The initial project was designed to focus on women and young people, addressing inequality issues in both demographics, but we broadened the parameters in Rwanda to open the training to everyone. In total, 26 people took part in the programme and 14 of those were women, so it was a good result.’ The project was a success, with 20 of the 26 passing the foundation and intermediate sensory and green coffee modules of SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System. Participants hailed from the coffee industry, many working in the National Agricultural Export Development Board (NAEB) and exporting companies within the country. NAEB and Letsequoia, the coffee exporter led by IDC member Inyoung Kim, were partners of the programme, with both organisations proving eager to support the country’s crucial coffee industry. Coffee is a huge contributor to the Rwandan economy, accounting for 75% of foreign exchange earnings and the IDC is keen to continue its work in the country in the future. ‘Rwanda was a great place for us to base our pilot programme,’ explains Alberto. ‘The government is supportive, it has good infrastructure and logistics, and the industry needs our help. The participants had not undertaken training before but they were very enthusiastic. They also had not experienced coffees from other origins, only their own, so it was great to be able to show them other coffees and compare them.’ With sustainability and equality – both in terms of gender and age – at the top of the IDC’s agenda, Alberto is keen to continue the project. ‘We are focusing on the social pillar of sustainability, 28 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
working together with the Education Committee and NGOs to support those working at origin. We are giving them knowledge and helping them improve their skills. The long-term plan is to train trainers so that they can provide education themselves.’
‘Rwanda was a great place for us to base our pilot programme. The government is supportive, it has good infrastructure and logistics, and the industry needs our help.’ The IDC plans to return to Rwanda in 2016, staging the second round of training in the summer. ‘We are working with the International Women’s Coffee Alliance, Grounds for Health and the International Trade Centre to expand the programme in 2016. As a pilot project our first trip to Rwanda was a success, particularly as it was planned quite quickly, so we are keen to build on this,’ says Alberto. ‘We want to work with other associations and NGOs as we firmly believe that if we work together rather than running separate projects it will have a bigger impact. At the moment the Coffee Quality Institute, SCAA, Grounds for Health and ITC are all working there so we’re trying to align the different associations.’ While Rwanda remains the focus in the short term, Alberto believes that the project can be rolled out to other origins in the future. ‘The plan is to work on the programme in one location first, then once we have clear ideas on what to do and how to do it we can introduce it to other countries. We believe education is crucial in helping build a sustainable coffee industry and SCAE has an important role to play in this.’ »
ORIGINS EVENTS
Images: Alberto Polojac
29 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 29
ORIGINS
SNAPSHOT OF RWANDA Area: 26,339 km2 Population: 12 million – the highest population density in Africa Water: 5.3%, 100mm average rainfall per annum Climate: Tropical GDP: US$698 per capita
Coffee was introduced to Rwanda in colonial times and today accounts for three-quarters of exports in the country. The coffee is predominantly Arabica (Bourbon), grown by 400,000 smallholders on plantations that average in size of 200 trees. The total coffee growing area in the country is 35,000 hectares at an altitude of between 900m to 2,400m. The average yield per hectare is 700kg of green coffee, spanning five varieties (BM 139, BM 71, Jackson 2/1257, Harrar, Pop 3303/21). ‘The industry in Rwanda has many advantages,’ reports Alberto Polojac, Chair of SCAE’s International Development Committee. ‘The sector has been radically transformed to grow quality coffee. Coffee is grown on fertile volcanic soil with plentiful rainfall, and the industry is supported by government, cooperatives
30 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
with skilled labour, and private businesses which have been encouraged to build processing plants and laboratories. ‘Challenges, however, include lack of transportation to carry cherries to the nearest buying centre, potato defects, insufficient research and resources, and the fact that Rwanda is a landlocked country. Buyers do not want to pay the additional price for land transportation. Constraints include poor application of mineral fertiliser, lack of knowledge in good agronomic practices, old coffee trees – close to a quarter of which are not productive – and yield losses due to pest and disease damage, the most serious of which are antestiabug and coffee leaf rust. By providing training and education in the country, SCAE aims to help the industry address some of these challenges.’
◆
SIGNPOST
The only foodservice solution provider in the industry Industry leaders in espresso for 27 years….we supply world class equipment with first class service Coffee Equipment Auto Hand Wash
•
•
Catering Equipment
Service & Support
•
•
Concept & Design
Maintenance
• Training
For more information visit the Mulmar website or contact us on +44 (0)1707 286 955 / sales@mulmar.com
WWW.MULMAR.COM CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 31 MULMAR_WP.indd 2
29/09/2015 14:49
EVENTS
And So to Camp... For its second annual outing, Barista Camp headed to Riccione on Italy’s Adriatic Coast for four coffee-fuelled days of learning, discussion, tastings and fun. Café Europa reports.
T
he first Barista Camp, organised by the newly-formed Barista Guild of Europe (BGE), was always going to be a tough act to follow. Staged at a sunny beach resort on the outskirts of Athens, Barista Camp 2014 was an instant hit with Europe’s barista community, providing a much-needed home where baristas could meet, share ideas, test new equipment and hone their skills while earning some highly-prized Coffee Diploma System accreditation. So popular was the 2014 event, that it is little wonder that BGE opted to repeat this winning formula in 2015, bringing baristas from across Europe to another coastal location in September. Over 150 coffee pros gathered at Hotel Corallo, Riccione, a four star resort on the shores of the Adriatic, from 23-26 September, where they took part in cutting-edge lectures, fun team challenges, tastings, and of course plenty of parties and social events. The crew at BGE, ably led by Isa Verschraegen, the Guild’s Coordinator, assembled a high-level team of in-demand Authorised SCAE Trainers (ASTs) and coffee leaders to address
Magda Grzelka (UK), Alberto Polojac (Italy), Ellen Goormans (Belgium), Alessandro Bonuzzi (UK), Davide Cobelli (Italy), Panos Konstantinopoulos (Greece) and Eddy Righi (Italy). Their participation ensured baristas could learn from some of the best minds in the business.
baristas over the four days of Camp, and talks ranged from the science of water to coffee economics, plus great stories from origin. Speakers at Camp included Andrew Tolley of Taylor St Baristas and Harris + Hoole; Rina Paguaga of Café Vidita; Sang Ho Park from Square Mile Coffee Roasters; Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood from Colonna and Small’s; Massachusetts Institute of Technology scholar and author, Christopher Hendon; author Scott Rao and Christian Klatt of HEMRO Group. Built on a solid foundation of learning, Barista Camp offered attendees a choice of five crucial educational tracks from the Coffee Diploma System to study. These were Raphael (Barista Foundation and Sensory Foundation); Michelangelo (Green Foundation and Sensory Foundation), Leonardo (Barista Intermediate), Donatello (Brewing Intermediate) and Splinter (Sensory Intermediate). Two days of classes were followed by written and practical exams where baristas could earn newlyminted coffee qualifications. The ASTs delivering the courses were Tim Sturk (UK), Patrick O’Malley (USA), Lauro Fioretti (Italy), Simon James (Australia), Ben Townsend (UK), Vini Arruda (Ireland), Sandra Azevedo (Portugal),
support we would not be able to stage such a great event. One of the greatest benefits for baristas at Camp is the opportunity to test and play with such a wide variety of state-of-the-art equipment and products. Baristas at Camp were able to train on machines from our five espresso machine partners – Dalla Corte, Sanremo, Nuova Simonelli, Wega and La Marzocco – as well as test equipment from our grinder partner, HEMRO Group, brewing partners, Bunn and Marco, and water filtration partner, BWT water+more. We’re very proud of the success of Barista Camp and we can’t wait for our next Barista Camp in 2016 where we promise to deliver the same great mix of education and entertainment.’
32 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Barista Camp 2015 was another successful step in BGE’s ongoing campaign to support the thriving barista community in Europe. Barista Camp 2015 was another successful step in BGE’s ongoing campaign to support the thriving barista community in Europe, and BGE Coordinator, Isa Verschraegen, is thankful to the many sponsors who made the event happen. ‘Without their
◆
DON’T MISS OUT: Along with the annual Barista Camp, BGE stages a series of influential tours, lectures and discussions, including CoLab (which took place in Paris in November) and Dialogue. Visit baristaguildofeurope.com to find out more. baristaguild_eu baristaguild_eu baristaguildeurope
EVENTS
Images: Jordan Sanchez
33 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 33
Simon Says
IN CONVERSATION
SIMON JAMES, Barista Trainer at Genovese Coffee in Melbourne, Australia, was one of a number of influential Authorised SCAE Trainers who shared their knowledge with attendees at the second annual Barista Camp in Riccione, Italy, in September. Here, he discusses education and trends in speciality coffee with ANDRA VLAICU.
I grew up drinking instant coffee. Around 1996, I began to drink Mokka Pot coffee and then in 1998 I had my defining coffee moment… I was at Zucca in Galleria, Milan, and I was spellbound as I watched the barista pour a magnificent rosetta in my cappuccino. I decided then that I wanted to do that! Two years later, I had sold my taxi business and I was teaching myself how to operate an espresso machine in a café in Melbourne. I moved through a few cafés, progressing from barista to café manager in quiet and very busy cafés (up to 130kg per week). I also began instructing latte art at a hospitality college in Melbourne in 2006. I enjoyed training staff in my café and at the college, so when the opportunity of being a barista trainer for a national franchise came along, I took it. I worked for that company for fourand-a-half years, developing my training, process writing, and people management skills. I also competed in barista competitions and was runner-up at the Australian Barista Championship in 2010. I now work for Genovese Coffee in Melbourne. It is a family-owned coffee roastery, specialising in traditional Italian style espresso, but with a growing speciality division. I became interested in education, and communication in particular, in the late 1990s, before I was in coffee. When I was training café staff, as a manager, I found it challenging to teach people who had different ways of learning. I was constantly looking for the “key” to each person’s way of learning. Many people will learn in similar ways, but some people have unconventional comprehension. There is nothing more satisfying than making
Simon James, pictured above and right, at Barista Camp
expanding speciality café scene. For instance, it appears that the number of cafés in the Melbourne CBD exceeds the number of retail shops. The majority of Melbourne cafes are commodity cafés, but 10-15% are speciality, and customers are significantly more discerning than they were 10 to 15 years ago. Although I understand the SCAA/SCAE definition of speciality, and
Some people in the industry in Australia think that five years of being a barista, attending cuppings, watching people roast and doing a little bit of internet research gives them the skills they need to roast coffee… Unfortunately, I think there’s a risk that some of the public will be put off coffee by some of the new coffee professionals. Marketing hype will only get you so far, for so long. a difference with someone who is struggling with a concept, and finding the way to help them understand it. Education in coffee is paramount. Not everyone will want to have the same depth of knowledge or understanding, but I think it is important that everyone has access to as much information as possible. At a basic level, I believe that if baristas understand more about coffee, they will understand why the critical aspects are critical, and be able to appropriately apply quality and/or efficiency-focused processes. At a more sophisticated level, I believe a broader understanding leads to a desire for more information, the sharing of ideas, and the exploration of new ideas. I think it’s fair to say that the Australian coffee market is amongst the most sophisticated in the world. Currently, we are the home of the present World Barista Champion and the World Latte Art Champion. Most major cities have a thriving and 34 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
I appreciate the need to define it from commodity, I can understand why some veterans of the espresso industry find it alienating. I think speciality is really important when it comes to brewed coffee. It makes sense to serve a well-produced, processed, roasted, and brewed coffee. I think we should encourage the ability to select a coffee variety, cultivate and process it in a way to enhance its particular characteristics, then roast it to bring those characteristics to life, and finally brew it in a way that does justice to all the work that has gone into the bean. However, I think the art of blending for espresso appears to have been stepped over when it comes to speciality. The ability to produce a consistent cup from day to day, year to year, is an art, and I see some customers returning to quality bar espresso, because they like the consistency.
CE53 Direct Trade v_02FIN 13-05-13_Cafe Europa 15/05/2013 07:29 Page 23
IN CONVERSATION
SIMON’S FAVOURITES Origin and brew method: My favourite brew method is espresso, so I prefer blends. However, a V60 of Kenya Nyeri is hard to beat. Equipment: My favourite espresso machine is the Wega Nova, and my favourite grinder is the Mazzer Major, with traditional doser. They’re both really reliable and consistent. I love the E61 brewing group, and the genius of its design. It’s been around for nearly 60 years, and I don’t think any other machine makes a better espresso. Different espresso? Yes. Better espresso? That’s subjective. Although I agree that we should be striving to improve quality from bean to cup, and we should reward producers of fine coffee, I also value the art of a master roaster and blender (for espresso), and I would like to see this skill somehow being incorporated in the definition of speciality. Our company is applying more of a speciality approach to our traditional blend and the quality and consistency have improved. I see value in creating a definition of “Speciality Espresso” that rewards the ability to produce a balanced, complex, versatile, and clean cup with the same characteristics year round. In Australia, filter coffee, cold drip, and nitrogen cold brew are increasing in popularity, but so are capsule machines. Public cuppings are also becoming more popular. I have had some students tell me that they’re turning back to more traditional espresso blends, because they find the cup more consistent from day to day. They also say that because there are so many people roasting speciality coffee now, and most of them don’t know how to develop a roast effectively, many of the coffees are under-developed. This goes back to the need for education. Unfortunately, some people in the industry in Australia think that five years of being a barista, attending cuppings, watching
people roast, and doing a little bit of internet research gives them the skills they need to roast coffee. Marketing has become critical in promoting these newcomers, and they’re competing in a small market against a proportionately large number of speciality roasters and cafés. I think there’s a risk that some of the public will be put off coffee by some of the new coffee professionals. Marketing hype will only get you so far, for so long. What advice would I give someone starting in coffee? Be open-minded. Always listen to everything that everyone tells you about coffee, whether it’s popular or not, and whether you agree with it or not. Try different approaches or methods, and review the results. If you like the results, use the method or approach. Always ask why. Get as much information about why a particular method or approach works the way it does. Knowledge is power, and you will never stop learning. Invest in quality training for yourself. The moment you think you’re a great barista/roaster/ trainer etc. is probably the moment you’ve stopped learning at some level. There’s always improvement to be made.
◆
@sdotjames
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Coffee
Analysis, consulting, courses and R&D on coffee
COMPANY WITH QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM CERTIFIED BY DNV
= ISO 9001:2008 =
…we can tell you Our experienced technicians and researchers, working in our up-to-the-minute physical and chemical analysis laboratory, can provide a quality reference point for the world of coffee. Demus Lab’s knowhow doesn’t only give you the means to perfect your roasting, grinding and packing. In fact, Demus Lab can help you improve all the stages of your production cycle, and our research into the most fragrant and aromatic new blends can boost the quality of your product, too. Thanks to our wide network of coffee experts, we can offer complete training, from selecting the best green coffee and achieving the ideal coffee tastes, to custom-designed courses on espresso tailored to specific client needs. In short, Demus Lab has the best answers to all your questions about coffee.
Area Science park - ed.E3 Padriciano 99 - 34012 Trieste tel. +39 0403755466 fax +39 0403755467 info@demuslab.it www.demuslab.it
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 35
T ANK OU!
Barista Guild of Europe Barista Camp 2
ESPRESSO MACHINE PARTNERS
EXCLUSIVE GRINDER PARTNER
BREWING EQUIPMENT PARTNERS
PRODUCT PARTNERS
COFFEE PARTNERS
MEDIA PARTNERS
36 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
WATER FILTRATION PARTNER
AT THE BAR
TAKE 5
With Danny Calders // BGE Membership Coordinator Words: Andra Vlaicu Images: European Coffee Trip
1. Why coffee? I guess coffee has always been in my life, even if I didn’t pay much attention to it. I had my first cup of home brewed coffee at age seven, a pour-over made by my granny on the stove, half dark roasted supermarket beans, half chicory root (an old Belgian tradition to make the coffee even more bitter). I drank my coffee with milk and have always liked that combination ever since. My real interest in coffee came quite late in my life. When I moved to Antwerp nine years ago I walked into Caffènation, a great coffee bar and back then the pioneer in speciality coffee in the city. I started hanging out there, moving from double shot lattes to espresso and filter coffee over the years. Caffènation also had an intro class, Bean to Cup, where I learned about green beans, origin, roast and everything from pulling my first shot of espresso, to pouring my first latte art. It wasn’t until early last year when I was offered a vacant spot in Tim Sturk’s brewing classes that my professional interest in coffee sparked. I loved these classes, all things brewing and the whole atmosphere. (Tim’s a great teacher and overall very nice guy.) Not much later I started my career in coffee for Antwerp-based Cuperus, first as a barista in a market truck (pulling about 150 shots in a couple of hours to get the hang of it), later moving to their bar/shop and I ended up opening a second coffee bar with them in early 2015. Right now, I am currently on a one-month coffee trip in Colombia. I've learned so much about coffee and service here so far. It really has opened my eyes and mind about the specialty coffee world!
make a great cup! I can definitely see the importance of SCAE's role in education and BGE's role in promoting the various educational offerings for baristas. 3. How was Barista Camp? Barista Camp 2015 was great! I’ve learned a lot about myself this year. I was on the Sensory Intermediate track, because sensory is an area where I thought I could improve most. I learned how to use my own sense of taste and smell to find so many aspects of coffee, both good and bad (defects).
The job of barista is hot right now and a lot of people want to work in the industry but lack the knowledge and training. You need an understanding of the product, the brewing, the workflow and a lot more to make a great cup!
The presentations at Camp were very interesting, ranging from café economics to coffee extraction, to life on a farm, to water chemistry. I'm sure a lot of people went home with knowledge they didn't expect to find at Camp. It was also great to see so many people from last year’s Camp. It felt as if I saw them just recently and we picked up where we had left off. I made some truly good friends this year. The only bad thing about Barista Camp was that it went so fast! Everything felt so smooth and before I knew it I was on the bus to the airport back home. I wouldn’t have minded staying an extra few days. 4. What is your favourite origin and brew method? My favourite origin is definitively Yirgacheffe, Ethiopia. I love the floral notes and the clean cup of a nice Yirga on filter. I do like all kinds of brew methods – one day it will be the espresso machine, the other day a V60 or aeropress. 5. What goes well with coffee? Company! @dannycalders dannycalders
2. How important is education in coffee? Very important! I often walk into a new coffee bar or breakfast place where they seem to have decent equipment, and sometimes even great coffee, but when I get served, the drink tastes horrible. The job of barista is hot right now and a lot of people want to work in the industry but lack the knowledge and training. You need an understanding of the product, the brewing, the workflow and a lot more to CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 37
THE
PASSIONATE EDUCATOR PATRICK O’MALLEY, winner of the ‘Passionate Educator’ award in the SCAE Excellence Awards at this year’s World of Coffee in Gothenburg, didn't always have his heart set on a career in the coffee industry. He tells SARAH GRENNAN about how he ‘tripped and fell into coffee’, and offers sage advice for newcomers starting out in coffee today.
Patrick has been a keen supporter of BGE’s Barista Camp, providing training at both the 2014 and 2015 events
ASTs
A
uthorised SCAE Trainer and coffee entrepreneur, Patrick O’Malley’s prime ambition as a young man wasn’t the ‘black gold’ that he speaks so passionately of today, it was the fruit of the vine that first caught his attention in the hospitality industry. ‘I was fascinated with wine and I wanted to go to college to be a winemaker,’ explains the US-based master roaster, tea blender, international barista competition judge and equipment supplier who travelled to Gothenburg in June to be honoured at the prestigious SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A. There he collected the ‘Passionate Educator’ title in tribute to his ongoing campaign to raise coffee knowledge worldwide. While wine was his first love, Patrick’s initial flirtation with coffee came while waiting tables in a French restaurant in his native Arizona – ‘they had an Illy pot’ he recalls. It was some time after that, when running a café in Hawaii, that he and coffee started seriously dating. If they were going to do coffee, then they should do it right, he thought, and talked the owner into buying an espresso machine. At that stage there was little training in coffee, Patrick reflects. ‘When we look at what we have today, there was nothing like that back then. No one knew about the importance of cleaning and maintaining machines so I became a self-taught technician.’ His newly acquired technician skills led to a job fixing and selling machines and Patrick went on to start his own distribution company in California. ‘Three or four years later I bought a roaster and started selling coffee,’ he remembers. It was his first step in what was to become one of his life’s great passions. Patrick parted ways with the coffee industry for a short while in the late ’90s – ‘I sold the business in 1997 to follow wine and raise a daughter for a year’ – but he soon fell back into the sector when he began selling imported Italian coffee and Cimbali machines. The Espresso Italia distribution company was founded in 1998 and Infusion Coffee+Tea – the coffee roaster and tea blender – followed suit. ‘I bought a roaster and started roasting again,’ he explains. ‘That’s my zen. I love roasting – it’s my quiet time. I start at 4am when no one is around and I’m done by 11.’ LiquidTech joined the portfolio when Patrick spotted a need for reliable service technicians. ‘It was formed out of the demand from other distributors to provide back up and support. At Espresso Italia, we service our own customers, but in LiquidTech we provide support services for other companies.’ The idea to provide coffee support also encouraged Patrick to establish his fourth business in his burgeoning coffee empire, the International Barista and Coffee Academy (IBCA) in Tempe, Arizona, where Patrick trains baristas and coffee professionals from across the globe. ‘When I did SCAE’s barista training I quickly got hooked on education,’ he reveals. ‘I was one of the first 12 students on SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System. I got my diploma in 2012 – I was the 43rd person to achieve it. I was completely inspired when I started the programme so I went home and opened a coffee school, starting with the barista and brewing modules. We have four espresso stations, a double-mirrored brew bar and a classroom for 16 people. We later added a little café out the front, which we branded as Infusion.’ Out of all his coffee offspring, it is IBCA, the youngest child, which gives Patrick the most joy. ‘I enjoy it more than anything. » CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 39
ASTs
interest
‘Pick modules that you most and take your time to do the diploma. We see people coming into us all the time who want to go straight through the
Coffee Diploma System and earn their diploma as quickly as possible but that is not always the best way.
patient
education
You should be , get in each module and then apply it in
industry before you move on to the next module.’
Patrick O’Malley was presented with the Passionate Educator Award at the SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A. at the Nordic World of Coffee 2015
40 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
As soon as I began the Coffee Diploma System I had the vision of opening this training centre. When we opened in 2010 we began by training our wholesale customers, then I received a lot of requests to train internationally so we started travelling to provide education. As a result, we now attract a lot of people who travel to Tempe from around the world to attend the Academy. We definitely train more internationally than locally, but since we opened the café we’ve noticed that we’re getting a lot more local business.’ Assisted by trainers Nicolas Rozental and Matt Malinka, Patrick offers the full portfolio of SCAE education at IBCA, from the entry-level Introduction to Coffee module, to Barista Skills, Roasting, Sensory, Green Coffee and Brewing modules at Foundation, Intermediate and Professional levels. What attracted the American to the European educational programme? ‘It was really the people in SCAE that brought me on this path. I really liked them and we all grew up in coffee together. I remember all those years ago, Alf Kramer and Heinz Trachsel asked me how SCAE could become more relevant to baristas and I said, “training”. I was involved with the Coffee Diploma System through its development and I loved seeing how it came to fruition.’ He is envious of the educational options available to newcomers today. ‘If I had received the type of training available now when I first started out in coffee, who knows where I would be? The kids now are so lucky. There are a lot of great training courses available and great educators providing them. Young people can advance their careers so much faster than when I started. The coffee industry is so competitive now that you have to educate yourself in order to progress in the business.’ What advice does Patrick, who has been nicknamed ‘The Professor of Coffee’, give young people starting out in the business? ‘If you’re just getting started in coffee, find a job in a café where the owners are open-minded and where they will provide training in-house. Then seek out a good educator to help you grow. SCAE has a number of great trainers who can help you. Figure out what area of the industry you want to go into and
ASTs focus on that one first. Pick modules that interest you most and take your time to do the diploma. We see people coming into us all the time who want to go straight through the Coffee Diploma System and earn their diploma as quickly as possible but that is not always the best way. You should be patient, get education in each module and then apply it in industry before you move on to the next module. If you are coming into the programme with zero experience it should take you a minimum of a year-and-a-half to do all the training. But that’s an absolute minimum, it takes many people a lot longer and it is good to put what you learn into practise as you go along.’ Patrick’s commitment to, and enthusiasm for, education encouraged SCAE’s International Development Committee to award him the prestigious Passionate Educator Award at the SCAE Excellence Awards, presented at the Nordic World of Coffee in June. ‘Patrick has been a keen supporter of the Coffee Diploma System since the very beginning,’ noted Colin Smith, chair of the SCAE Excellence Awards Jury, ‘and he regularly flies around the world to assist SCAE, providing training wherever required’. ‘I’m happy to do it,’ Patrick responds. ‘I love this industry and it’s great to be able to give back. Taking part in events like Barista Camp [where he provided training in 2014 and 2015] is very rewarding and I really enjoy it.’ How did it feel to be recognised on a global stage at World of Coffee in Gothenburg? ‘It means a lot to win the award. It’s nice to be recognised, especially coming from across the pond. Sometimes you can feel like an outsider, but the European educational system has always been our focus so it’s great to know that our work is appreciated.’
◆
ibca-usa.org EAGER TO LEARN? For more information on SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System, visit scae.com. 8537 Pentair Cafe Europa (128x185) AW_128x185mm 06/02/2015
16:43 Page 1
Pictured at the SCAE Welcome Reception at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg
EVERPURE
IF IT NEEDS TO GO IT NEEDS TO BE GOOD PENTAIR Foodservice is the largest water filtration, water treatment and beverage dispense equipment manufacturer to the global foodservice industry. Our dedication to providing you with effective, smart solutions is evident in all our products. Visit our website to discover more.
FOODSERVICE
www.pentairfoodservice.eu
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 41
CHAPTER FOCUS
POSTCARD FROM
FRANCE
SCAE France celebrates a milestone in 2016. We caught up with Communication Coordinator, THIERRY LAYEC, to find out what’s happening with speciality coffee in the country. When was SCAE France formed? SCAE France was formed in 2006 so we are celebrating our 10th anniversary in 2016 and we will host our ninth National Championship in January. All of us on the committee, and among the membership, are excited to enter a new year of challenges and to grow speciality coffee in the home of gastronomy. How many members do you have? Our membership has more than doubled over the last two years. In October 2014 we had just 80 members, now we have over 200. The newly-elected committee set a strategy to grow the membership and we did this by recruiting in the regions where we met coffee lovers at local expos. How are you supporting speciality coffee in France? We support speciality coffee in the country through a number of initiatives. The National Championship is a huge event which runs over three or five days depending on the year and where it
SCAE France has taken part in a number of events and expos in the regions in an effort to promote speciality coffee and grow membership
42 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
is organised. In 2017 we have decided to hold the competitions in Sirha, which is the most important gastronomic expo in Europe. We are also trying to promote our activity on social media as much as possible and we are partnering at events and cuppings, helping people to discover speciality coffee. For instance, in June we partnered with Indonesian Specialty Coffee at an event in Paris. SCAE France also provides training courses for people who wish to become baristas and we try to reach out to consumers all year through different activities, such as providing content for conferences. This is a new approach and there is a lot to do. Is there much of a speciality coffee scene in France? Speciality coffee is becoming more and more important in France. If you analysed the number of speciality coffee shops that have opened in France compared to other countries you
CHAPTER FOCUS in our country, so some coffee shops also have their own coffee. We are delighted to see that good coffee is available almost everywhere now. Pop up cafés are opening here and there, some in a museum, a shop or during events, and now, the wider gastronomy is more open to our way of producing and serving coffee. Is SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System a success in France? As far as we can see it is, or is becoming a hit, because we are receiving more and more requests for education, and not just to become a barista. SCAE France is very happy to welcome more authorised training centres. What can SCAE do to help grow speciality coffee worldwide? Education is the key. Education for professionals and for consumers. We don’t have any TV shows on coffee. That’s a pity. So, until this happens, we, as volunteers at SCAE France, keep on talking about and demonstrating what speciality coffee means around the country.
◆
MEET THE TEAM: SCAE FRANCE SCAE France elected a new committee in October 2014 which is enthusiastically promoting speciality coffee in the country. The committee comprises:
French consumers followed Charlotte Malaval’s achievements at the World Barista Championship in Seattle this year, where she took sixth-place
could argue that there aren’t that many, but that is because it is so difficult to run a business in our country. Philosophically-speaking however, there is a huge speciality coffee scene in France and it is growing rapidly. The number of competitors in our championships increases each year.
National Coordinator: Patrick Mas Education Coordinator: Ludovic Maillard Event Coordinator: Michael McCauley Treasurer: Nicolas Siino Secretary: Valerie Lancrenon Communications Coordinator: Thierry Layec Membership Coordinator: Lionel Galut
scaefrance.org
Are French people interested and knowledgeable about speciality coffee? Of course they are! They love good things, good food… Art de vivre. Speciality coffee is a real lifestyle, not just the concern of hipsters. Above all, when choosing speciality coffee, French people are interested in the background to the cup, what kind of story it has to tell. They want to know about the farmer who produced it and the barista who served it. Speciality coffee is ideal for French people who love hearing, watching, smelling and tasting … Their interest has also been piqued by the success of our baristas and many followed Charlotte Malaval’s achievements at the World Barista Championship where she came sixth. What challenges do speciality cafés, roasters and baristas face in France? They all have to face the capsules’ revolution. France is a leading market for Nespresso, and the domestic espresso – easy to use, luxurious, elegant and good – is now a way of life. Many competitors want to share the French market and we are very glad that some speciality coffee roasters have adapted their offering to target this segment of the market. Baristas and cafés have opportunities also. They are at the end of the chain, facing the consumer, and they can invite them into this world through education and conversation. Is there opportunity to grow the sector? Very much so. The sector is undergoing a revolution and we are all lucky to be part of it. From the bean to the cup, we at SCAE France are pushing ahead – helping people become more educated and realise their dream of opening a café. What new trends are emerging in the French coffee industry? We have noticed something interesting… Some collaborative roasters are beginning to become famous in France. This is due to the difficulty of running a new business (too risky)
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 43
WORLD OF COFFEE
Creating a Legacy When SCAE brings World of Coffee to Budapest in 2017 it will be the first time the Association’s flagship event is held in Eastern Europe, and a significant step in SCAE’s mission to support the speciality coffee industry in the region. As SCAE works to create a lasting legacy in host cities post-World of Coffee, Café Europa looks at the support it offers local coffee communities.
World of Coffee heads to Budapest in 2017, the first time the event will be held in Eastern Europe
M
ake no mistake, World of Coffee is big business. The right to host SCAE’s defining event, held in a different European city each June, is a significant win for any venue, tourist board or city council, all of whom are eager to reap the rewards that an event like World of Coffee can bring. With thousands of visitors from up to 100 countries around the world travelling to the show in any given year, many of whom choose to bookend their visits with a holiday in the host city or country, it is little wonder that World of Coffee is such an enticing draw. Just ask the tourism authority in Ireland which is working hand-in-hand with SCAE to ensure that World of Coffee Dublin is a triumphant event next summer. While hoteliers, restaurateurs and publicans may lick their lips when World of Coffee rolls into a city, and local café owners and baristas feel a mix of pride and absolute terror that thousands of discerning coffee lovers from across the globe are about to descend on their hometown, for SCAE the decision to bring the event to any city is about more than economics. The Association, and its event management providers, have a stringent list of criteria that cities must adhere to before their tender to host the event is considered by the board. From proximity to an international airport to an adequate supply of hotel rooms and, of course, quality venues, the event organisers must be certain that any chosen metropolis can adequately cater to the numbers that World of Coffee draws each year. But room rates, flight plans and smart venues aren’t the only criteria that SCAE take into consideration. With a mission to ‘Inspire Coffee Excellence’ and spread the message of speciality coffee around the globe, SCAE understands the power that an event like 44 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
World of Coffee brings. ‘For us now, World of Coffee is all about legacy. We are confident that each event will be a success – they are growing in size and stature every year – and we want to make sure we can maximise on this by using the event to support the coffee community in host cities, thereby creating a lasting legacy for the coffee industry in each country,’ explains David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE. Dublin, which will host World of Coffee next 23-25 June, is a pilot for this legacy programme, and the local steering group has created a new World of Coffee Ambassadors’ Club which is supporting the local industry in the build up to, and during, the event through training and marketing initiatives. Up to 100 local cafés, hotels, restaurants and bars applied to join the Ambassadors’ Club in spring 2015 and in the 12 months running up to the show they are taking part in a series of training initiatives, led by SCAE Ireland, to ensure that they are ready to serve the world’s most authoritative coffee drinkers in June. All participants will be rigorously audited and those who pass will be promoted to World of Coffee visitors and Dublin denizens through an app and guide. If this pilot programme is successful – and the progress to date is positive – SCAE intends to replicate it in other host cities in the future. ‘The World of Coffee Ambassadors’ Club can become the genesis of something that can be rolled out around the world as a precursor to World of Coffee,’ notes SCAE President, Paul Stack. ‘Our key vision is to leave a legacy post-Dublin 2016. We want to establish Dublin as one of the world’s top destinations for quality coffee.’ In a further bid to support the industry on the ground in Ireland, SCAE partnered with the Irish Foodservice Suppliers Alliance to create Dublin Coffee Festival, a trade and consumer event which
WORLD OF COFFEE was held for the second time in September. Attracting close to 5,000 coffee aficionados, the three-day show was designed specifically to raise awareness of speciality coffee among consumers and the hospitality industry in Dublin ahead of World of Coffee 2016. James Humpoletz, SCAE’s Marketing Manager, underlines why it is important that the Association lays this groundwork in advance of the event: ‘When the members of the global coffee community arrive in host cities for World of Coffee each year, we know that they don’t just visit the show, they also take time to check out the city and the local coffee scene. Armed with Twitter and Instagram, these visitors are hugely influential and have the power to stamp a city on the international coffee map. It is imperative that the local coffee community is ready to welcome these visitors, and that we support them with the tools required to raise coffee standards across the city in preparation for the event. This means that we need to bring hotels, restaurants and bars on the speciality coffee journey also. We don’t just want to roll World of Coffee in and out of a city, soon to be forgotten. We want to make sure that World of Coffee is the seed that helps speciality coffee not just grow, but bloom in each location.’
SUBLIME
Spring SERVES
Refresh your menu by creating a selection of speciality drinks recipes with DaVinci Gourmet syrups, sauces, smoothies and frappé mixes.
‘We don’t just want to roll
World of Coffee in and out of a city, soon to be forgotten. We want to make
seed that helps speciality coffee not just grow, but bloom in each location.’
sure that World of Coffee is the
Eastern Promise SCAE’s decision to bring World of Coffee to Budapest in 2017 is an important step in fuelling the growth of speciality coffee. It will be the first time that the event is held in Eastern Europe and the Association is keen to build on the pilot initiative in Dublin and create a real and tangible difference to the coffee community in the region. ‘It demonstrates the true character and determination of the speciality coffee community that we are able to take World of Coffee to an Eastern European country for the first time,’ said David Veal, when announcing the host cities for 2017-2019. ‘Budapest is a beautiful city with a thriving coffee scene and we are excited to be able to support this community by bringing one of the best speciality coffee events in the world to their doorstep. SCAE Hungary was actively involved in the bid to bring World of Coffee to Budapest and we know that the local steering group will work very hard to galvanise the industry in the city ahead of the event, and capitalise on this windfall for Hungary.’ As Dublin puts the finishing touches to plans for 2016 and Budapest begins to lay foundations for 2017, SCAE teams in Amsterdam and Berlin are also celebrating the news that they will host World of Coffee in 2018 and 2019. The Association’s campaign to Inspire Coffee Excellence across Europe continues.
◆
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY • • • •
Handcrafting soft drinks adds value and can appeal to all ages
CUBAN FIZZ INGREDIENTS
12oz/360ml
DaVinci Gourmet Peppermint Syrup DaVinci Gourmet Fruit Innovations Lemon and Lime Syrup Ice Lemonade
2 pumps 1 pumps fill cup fill cup
DIRECTIONS FILL cup with ice ADD syrups to cup TOP with lemonade and mix
For inspiration, check out our online recipe videos www.davinci-gourmet.com
World of Coffee 2016: 23-25 June, RDS, Dublin World of Coffee 2017: 13-17 June, Hungexpo, Budapest World of Coffee 2018: 19-21 June, RAI, Amsterdam World of Coffee 2019: 8-10 June, Messe Berlin
To keep up to date with the latest news on World of Coffee please visit worldofcoffee-dublin.com.
at www.davinci-gourmet.com
@DaVinci_Gourmet
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 45
THE INNOVATORS At this year’s World of Coffee in Gothenburg, Sweden, seven companies were honoured for their innovations in the New Product of the Show Awards, sponsored by Wilfa. In the first of a two-part series, we look at four of the award-winning products and services.
E E F F O C T S
E T A E R H G T E H R T A E N O ! N W I L O B U D SH TO G N I M O C IS
EE F F O FC O D LIN L B R U O D W OM S, S C ’ . D E N R A I BL SC 16 U 0 2 D E N I DUBL OFCOFFE LD WOR
23-25 June 2016
INNOVATORS
ALGRANO GETTING STRAIGHT TO THE POINT
Inspired by the Spanish phrase ‘Vamos directo al grano’ – meaning ‘let’s get straight to the point’ – the Swiss start up, Algrano, aims to do just that, providing an online marketplace for growers and roasters to meet and do business. The platform won the award for Best IT & Technology Innovation at the Nordic World of Coffee.
W
hen the team at Algrano timed their European launch to coincide with the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg, the platform quickly caught the attention of the judges of the New Product of the Show Awards. The founders – Swiss natives Christian Burri, Gilles Brunner and Raphael Studer – had embarked on a two-week tour through Europe prior to the event, introducing their new online marketplace that links green coffee buyers directly with growers at origin, and the site continued to draw the crowds at the show, proving to be one of the big hits of the week in Gothenburg. It sounds like a simple idea, building a virtual community between growers and buyers, yet it is a first in the coffee world, according to the founders. The site’s slick interface and clever concept impressed the New Product of the Awards Jury, prompting judges to describe it as ‘revolutionary’ and a ‘game-changer’ in the coffee industry. Co-founder Raphael Studer explains the inspiration behind the platform: ‘We believe that roasters and growers should know each other. Roasters are the artisans who reveal the beauties of the growers’ terroirs. Today some roasters know who produced their coffees, but usually growers don’t know who is buying their beans. The more two-way bridges we build between roasters and growers, the clearer the incentives to produce high quality coffee for growers.’ How Does It Work? Developed over 18 months with funding from Startup Chile and Startup Brasil, the site allows roasters to browse and follow producers, order samples, cup and review coffees, buy directly from farmers and provide price incentives to encourage farmers to improve quality. By grouping roasters’ orders online, Algrano allows buyers to source coffee straight at the farm, no matter what quantity required, and roasters and growers have full access to the price breakdown, ensuring that there is full transparency on all sides. For producers, not only can they trade directly with roasters, they can also build their profile and increase brand awareness by promoting their coffees through the community. To date, there are 135 growers and nearly 200 roasters using the platform and the first lots of Nicaraguan coffee went on sale in June. Next on offer are coffees from Brazil and Algrano is working with APAS, a cooperative of 60 growers in Minas Gerais. ‘The feedback that we have received so far has been phenomenal and we’re very pleased with the way the community has been received,’ explains Gilles Brunner. ‘Our objective this year is to demonstrate that the model created really works. We don’t want to grow too fast, we want to get it right.’
algrano.com
David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE and Tony Andersson, Director, Wilfa, sponsor of the Nordic World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards, present the award for Best IT & Technology Innovation to Raphael Studer, Director, Algrano
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 49
INNOVATORS
CAFFLANO KLASSIC SPECIALITY COFFEE ON THE GO The world’s first portable pour-over coffee maker, which aims to make speciality coffee accessible for all, has been embraced by baristas and roasters. It won the award for Best Domestic Coffee Equipment at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg.
C
afflano Klassic was developed by a team of coffee enthusiasts at Beanscorp, Korea, who wanted top quality speciality coffee that they could create anytime, anywhere. Justin Ahn, Sales & Marketing Director – EMEA, explains: ‘We love coffee, but really good speciality coffee is not cheap. For example, I drink four or five cups of coffee a day – it is too expensive for me to buy all of these in a coffee shop. Also, many cafés close at 18.00 so it can be hard to get really good speciality coffee in the evenings. That’s why we created the Cafflano Klassic. It enables consumers to create their own speciality coffee at home or away, at any time, for a fraction of the cost.’ The all-in-one, pour-over coffee maker, which includes a drip kettle, foldaway handmill grinder, stainless filter dripper and tumbler, topped the competitive consumer category in the New Product of the Show Awards at the Nordic World of Coffee 2015, impressing judges with its innovation, versatility and ability to create a great tasting cup of speciality coffee on the go. ‘We have been thrilled with the response to the Cafflano Klassic,’ says Justin. ‘We have won awards at SCAE’s World of Coffee in Gothenburg, the Autumn Fair in Birmingham and Host in Milan, and the coffee industry has embraced the product. While it was initially designed for consumers to use in the home and office, we are delighted to see that it is being used by baristas, roasters and green coffee buyers, who are using it to test beans at farms.’ How Does It Work? Billed as the world’s first portable pour-over coffee maker, the environmentally friendly Cafflano Klassic allows you to make speciality-grade coffee anywhere. Pour 20g of beans in the grinder, grind fresh, add water and hey presto! Your coffee is ready to go. ‘Costing approximately half the price of existing brew kits, it’s efficient, convenient and, with no disposable cups or filters, it’s eco-friendly,’ explains Justin. ‘Crucially, it’s also very easy to use, which helps when engaging consumers. They don’t need 2015 COMPETITION to buy different equipment, such as a chemex, V60 or siphon, which some can find confusing to use.’ 2015 Winner The Cafflano Klassic is available Best New Domestic Coffee to purchase on scae.com, and SCAE Equipment members can avail of a 10% discount.
cafflano.com David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE and Tony Andersson, Director, Wilfa, sponsor of the Nordic World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards, present the award for Best New Domestic Coffee Equipment to Justin Ahn, Sales & Marketing Director – EMEA, Beanscorp (centre)
50 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
INNOVATORS
ZUMA NON-DAIRY VANILLA BEAN THE NON-DAIRY SOLUTION FOR EVERYONE
As demand for ‘free-from’ food and drinks grow, Beyond the Bean has created the Zuma Non-Dairy Vanilla Bean Frappé to help cafés cater to a wide variety of dietary requirements. The frappé won the Best New Non-Coffee Beverage Award at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards.
T
he team at Beyond the Bean understands what it takes to run a successful coffee shop and the challenges that café owners face on a daily basis. For instance, how do you cater for a variety of dietary requirements in a small outlet with limited storage space? Enter Zuma’s Non-Dairy Vanilla Bean Frappé that will suit those on dairy and non-dairy diets. ‘We listened to customer feedback and noticed a need for a product that could be served to all customers, including those following a non-dairy diet. We recognised free-from diets were on the rise, so we decided it would suit businesses better to redevelop our existing frappé powder to be identical to the original Zuma Vanilla Frappé in taste and appearance,’ says Jess Davies, Marketing Manager, Beyond the Bean. The feedback from the industry has been positive, notes Jess. ‘The main point is how well the flavour has matched the original product, which means that cafés no longer have to stock two frappés, saving counter space and making operations smoother.’ This neat and practical solution to a growing challenge is what appealed to judges of the New Product of the Show Awards who gave Beyond the Bean the nod in the Non-Coffee Beverage category. How Does It Work? Free from hydrogenated fats, GMOs, artificial colours and flavours, Zuma’s Non-Dairy Vanilla Bean Frappé can be used with other vegan-approved products like smoothies or syrups. Just blend with ice and milk, or a milk alternative. ‘It encourages consumer confidence when it’s stocked on the menu as there’s no chance of cross-contamination. We recommend customers use a different colour jug for milk alternatives,’ says Jess. The frappé also caters to a hugely popular and profitable trend, she adds. 'Iced beverage sales have doubled in size over the past three years across the coffee shop industry. With the number of people following free-from diets increasing, Zuma’s Non Dairy frappé ensures that cafés don’t miss out on that business, working well as a fantastic base for house frappés.' Winning the Award for Best New NonCoffee Beverage at the Nordic World of Coffee was a great boost for Beyond the Bean, concludes Jess. ‘We pride ourselves on being the market leader when it comes to innovation in the drinks industry. This 2015 COMPETITION product was developed by listening to our customers and made to suit their needs, so it’s great that Zuma Non Dairy Vanilla Bean 2015 Winner is getting the recognition that it deserves.’ Best
beyondthebean.com
Non-Coffee Beverage
David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE and Tony Andersson, Director, Wilfa, sponsor of the Nordic World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards, present the award for Best New Non-Coffee Beverage to Gary McGann and Joanne Fairweather, Beyond the Bean
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 51
INNOVATORS
PAULIG MUKI
COFFEE’S NEW SOCIAL PLATFORM Powered by hot coffee, the Paulig Muki takeaway cup with e-paper display is designed to capture the imagination of the ‘Instagram generation’ and provide a new marketing platform for brands. It was named Best New Coffee Convenience Product at the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards.
P
aulig Muki, the clever new cup which allows users to share photos with friends and customers, aims to maximise the sociability of coffee. ‘Coffee has always been social for us at Paulig,’ explains International Business Development Manager, Juha Ruohonen. ‘We have noticed the “Instagram generation” does not consume as much coffee as the older generations. On the other hand, being social for youngsters means being online and communicating with someone physically not present.’ Enter the Muki which pairs social media with coffee. ‘We decided to combine the coffee moment and this new type of sociality. Paulig Muki was born to make coffee social in a new, different way,’ says Juha. How Does It Work? Available for iOS, Android and Windows users, coffee lovers can send photos to their friends’ Muki – a 12oz cup with e-paper display – via the mobile app. Powered by coffee’s thermal energy, the photo will appear as soon as hot coffee is poured into the cup and each coffee has enough energy to share up to 10 photos. The product enables real-time communication over the internet, notes Juha. ‘The content can be anything – marketing messages, coupons or simply just pics. Muki also has an option for Near Field Communication (NFC), enabling various new functionalities like payment or preferred customer identification. But the most important thing is the fun factor.’ The ‘fun factor’ appealed to judges of the New Product of the Show Awards at World of Coffee, who noted that the product was an ‘innovative new platform which connects customers with each other and your brand in a fun way’. Paulig believes that the product can be a powerful new tool for cafés. ‘Muki can significantly increase footfall for coffee shops by providing relevant, location-based promotions to customers. While the energy of hot coffee lasts for roughly 10 refreshes of the screen, it will also drive refills of the coffee. It can be part of preferred customer programmes or subscription-based business models,’ adds Juha. Described by Paulig as ‘the first real smart coffee cup in the world’, Muki has caught the attention of Mashable, Buzfeed, Business Insider and more. It’s triumph in the Nordic World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards was ssue: Next I ‘important recognition’ of says Juha. ‘It proves that Part two ing we have been able to rs’ featur o t a v create an interesting, o n ‘The In kaging unique product.’ new pac
◆
pauligmuki.com
52 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
ct the best od produ o f , n io t ee solu ional coff s s e f o r p and nt. equipme
David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE and Tony Andersson, Director, Wilfa, sponsor of the Nordic World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards, present the award for Best New Coffee Convenience Product to Juha Ruohonen, International Business Development Manager, Paulig Muki
INNOVATORS
CAFÉ EUROPA | WINTER 2015 | 53
QjA
ANNEMARIE TIEMES
SCAE’s Education Field Manager and World Competitions Judge, ANNEMARIE TIEMES, talks to ANDRA VLAICU about World Coffee Events new World Competitions Education Programme (WCEP) which provides training for prospective judges, as well as competing baristas and coaches.
What is the WCEP and how did it come about? The idea for the World Competitions Education Programme came up three years ago during a WCE Summit in Dublin. We felt that we should start training our judges and there was a need for more education in this area. To be a World Competition judge you need to have two years of national judging experience but, in some countries, the level of judging is not that high. The pass rate for judges’ certification is quite low – 40% – and as the World Barista Championship (WBC) and the national championships get bigger and bigger we need more judges. We need to train them so that the pass rate is higher. Is the programme just for judges or can others take part? It is for anybody interested in following the competitions. Baristas have long been asking about what the judges know and what they look for. You see baristas competing year after year, finishing in second or third place and never quite winning, then they go out and judge for a year and when they come back they win the competition because they have learned what judges want. We want everyone to have access to this information so whether you’re a barista competing in competitions, a coach, or if you would like to become a world competition judge, then this is a good programme for you. The programme runs for five days. What does it involve? There are a number of different modules. Participants will see presentations from baristas and there will also be a lot of tastings, for example espressos and cappuccinos. You will learn about working as a technical judge – how to do it and what to look for. We work with very experienced judges so that people learn from the best. You also get a chance to practise and ask questions without the stress of worrying about an exam at the end.
Judges at the 2015 World Brewers Cup held at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg
54 WINTER 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
The WBC training spans two-and-a-half days and includes three modules – stage behaviour, score sheets and sensory skills. We also have four universal modules: deliberation, when judges go off stage to talk behind closed doors, and debriefing, how to tell a barista how they won and, more importantly, why they didn’t win, plus two modules on technical skills, looking at score sheets and stage behaviour. Here we cover how you work as a technical judge on stage, where you should pay attention, and how to stay out of the away of the barista and still see everything. Do you just cover the World Barista Championships? No, we also have two modules on the Brewers Cup, which are quite extensive and have a lot of tastings. We also have oneand-a-half modules on Coffee in Good Spirits. It’s a competition that people don’t know a lot about and they’re kind of scared of it – it’s a balance between alcohol, coffee, bartending… But when you do these modules, you can see how much fun it is. Finally, there are two modules about Latte Art where you look at a lot of pictures and discuss what is good, what’s not good and what you want to see. These also include practical coffee performances. Why is the programme worth doing? This is the only programme that is equivelant to one year of national judge’s experience. If you want to be a WCE certified judge you either need two years of national body experience or one year of national body experience, and that is important as that’s real competition experience, and the WCEP. Why is it so difficult to pass the WCE judges’ exams? It is hard because we are training judges to pick out the World Champion and the level of the baristas these days is so high. If you look at technical score sheets of the top six in WBC, they might miss about two points and that’s about it. As a technical judge you need to be so sharp. Judging is hard. The barista that’s standing in front of you may have trained for six-months for 40 hours a week and you owe it to him to be focused. Will it be harder to win competitions now that judges are receiving more training? No, I think they will be more open, more transparent. You will have score sheets that are easier to read. Judges are learning to be less opinionated and more objective. I think in the end it will create better judges.
◆
WE STOCK ALL ESSENTIAL MATERIALS FOR THE COFFEE DIPLOMA SYSTEM
SHOP NOW OPEN www.scae.com
DID YOU KNOW? The SCAE Shop supplies all your essential reading materials for the Coffee Diploma System. Buy your books, specialist equipment and resources from the SCAE Shop today.
BOOKS
CLOTHING & APPAREL
ACCESSORIES & STATIONERY
EQUIPMENT & TOOLS
JEWELLERY
DON’T FORGET, SCAE MEMBERS RECEIVE AN EXTRA * AND 10% DISCOUNT ON ALL PURCHASES AT THE SCAE SHOP!
Speciality African Coffees from Schluter - Since 1858 -
For all your African coffee needs We stock a full range of speciality coffee from the continent of Africa in store in the UK. We can deliver quantities from single pallets upwards to any destination in the UK, Europe or across the world.
Malawi
Ethiopia
Tanzania
Rwanda
Burundi
Kenya
T: +44 (0)151 498 6500 | E: liverpool@schluter.ch | www.schlutercoffee.co.uk
Cameroon
DRC
Uganda