ISSUE 64 CoLab: Antwerp + Coffee Economics + Understanding Freshness + Cupper’s Guide to Panama
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Straight on, you can‘t miss World of Coffee Dublin 2016! 23rd - 25th June, RDS simmonscourt. We are there at E-20 booth. Come to play with Mina and discover Max, our new grinder. See you there!
Inside
r You ide to u g e cial offe offi ld of C r Wo Dublin
ISSUE 64 | SUMMER 2O16
04 Welcome David Veal on collaboration 06 Community The ‘Who’s Who’ of SCAE 10 Update Paul Stack on unification
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16 Chapter Focus SCAE UK 18 In Memory Rashel Winn 20 Baristas CoLab: Antwerp report 22 Partners 20 years of Grounds for Health 24 Research Understanding freshness 31 World of Coffee The official guide to Europe’s greatest coffee week 49 Cupper’s Guide Panama’s show stopping coffees
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54 Sustainability The Sustainable Coffee Challenge 56 Report from Origin Peru’s Café Femenino 60 Coffee Economics Mick Wheeler on the future of speciality 62 How To… Create a profitable food offering 66 Q&A Coffee Island’s Panagiotis Konstantinopoulous
s Find U
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Read the n ition o digital ed m scae.co
62 CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 3
WELCOME
Working Together to Make a Difference
By collaborating we can achieve much more than working separately
I
’m writing this introduction at Schiphol airport as I prepare to board a flight to Kigali for my first ever visit to Rwanda, where I will not only get to see at first hand what is happening in that recently ravaged country but, most importantly, I will get to meet many of the people responsible for the renaissance of the coffee industry, who also have a responsibility for ensuring its future development and welfare. As I write I am reminded of two recent experiences that have enthused me and rekindled my hope for the future of our industry. First, I had the opportunity to visit one of the new and upcoming coffee shops in London recently, a privilege that I very rarely get to enjoy despite working very close to the UK capital. There are many such coffee shops opening now and during my visit I indulged myself, sampling three great speciality coffees while chatting to the young staff there about their hopes and aspirations, their plans to open a roastery (now the most common but welcome conversation that I have with retailers), and their absolute realisation about the importance and benefits of training. I left the coffee shop with my taste buds stimulated, my spirits high and full of inspiration. It was a prime example of what is happening so much in London and so many other capitals of the world
4 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
now. Furthermore, we are witnessing the beginnings of a ripple, which will soon become a wave, spreading out to smaller provincial towns and cities in so many countries in Europe and beyond. To see and experience all the good things about our industry reminds me how privileged we are to be working and living in such a vibrant and successful community.
David Veal
Davis on a trip to Ethiopia to measure climate change, and a new initiative from SCAA about a speciality coffee pricing index. All of these are very thoughtprovoking, meaningful and inspirational. Reading this magazine reminds me that while we at SCAE are investing more and more into the areas of research and sustainability – which is why I am travelling to Rwanda now – it is an area where our American friends and colleagues are leading the way. They have strengths that we don’t and we have strengths that they don’t. We complement each other. Which is why it is such good news that our members have voted overwhelmingly for unification, each one of them recognising that together we can achieve much more than we would as two separate associations. These areas of research, sustainability and market economics are one of the key reasons and justification for us uniting to work together. Because if we don’t seriously start working to make a significant difference to our industry, it won’t exist as we know it in two generations. That is a sobering thought. That is why we need to act and act together. So thank you to all our members who voted.
If we don’t seriously start working to make a significant difference to our industry, it won’t exist as we know it in two generations. That is a sobering thought. That is why we need to act and act together.
My second experience was more sedate, cerebral and sobering, yet equally inspiring. On another flight I spent some time reading the Autumn edition of SCAA’s Chronicle magazine. It’s full of deep, insightful articles, covering and uncovering some of the challenges that our industry faces now and in the future. Among the subjects covered were a new model for sustainability; research into different coffee varietals; a brilliant piece – as ever – by Emma Sage who accompanied Aaron
Watch this space for news of how the plans for unification will develop and please visit the SCAE Stand at World of Coffee in Dublin this 23-25 June, where the SCAE team will be delighted to update you on the progress of unification and share our vision for speciality coffee worldwide. David Veal Executive Director Speciality Coffee Association of Europe
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SCAE BOARD OF DIRECTORS SCAE EXECUTIVE TEAM President Paul Stack (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems
Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy), Toby Estates
Vice President Christina Meinl (Austria), Julius Meinl
Executive Director David Veal (UK), SCAE
Drewry Pearson (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems
Nils Erichsen (Germany), Ube Erichsen Beteiliungs
Heinz Trachsel (Switzerland)
Luigi Morello (Italy), La Cimbali
Ludovic Maillard (France), Maison Jobin
Johan Damgaard (Sweden), Johan & Nyström
Alberto Polojac (Italy), Imperator
Frank Neuhausen (Germany), BWT water+more
Chahan Yeretzian (Switzerland), University of Zurich
Patrizia Cecchi (Italy), Rimini Fiera
James Shepherd (UK/Ireland), Beyond the Bean
Tibor Várady (Hungary), Barista Guild of Europe 6 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
David Veal, Executive Director Yannis Apostolopoulos, Deputy Executive Director Michelle Hawkins, PA to Executive Director Membership Team Jayne Richards, Membership Manager Jackie Malone, Chapter Coordinator Isa Verschraegen, Guild Manager Hannah Davies, Guild Coordinator Alison Wraight, Membership Advisor Leanne Celentano, Membership Coordinator Lewis Young, Data Analyst Lesley Potts, Membership Accounts Clerk Robyn Stevenson, Membership Administrator Anna Barlow, Retention Officer Min Min Wang, China Representative Education Team Susan Hollins, Education Manager Annemarie Tiemes, Education Field Manager Kim Staalman, Education Field Coordinator Owen Thom, Quality Coordinator Megan Guo, Asia Coordinator Yun Jung Jung, Asia Coordinator Alex Morrell, Education Coordinator Aidan Jones, Education Administrator Kay Bennett, Education Administrator April Melvin, Education Administrator Events Team Garret Buckley, Events Manager Rebecca Dunwoody, Event Operations Manager Margaret Andreucetti, Exhibition Sales Manager Jens Henrik Thomsen, Sponsorship Coordinator Marketing Team James Humpoletz, Marketing Manager Andra Vlaicu, Marketing Assistant Richard Stiller, Marketing Assistant Keith Amos, Business Development Executive Operations Team David Hewitt, Operations Manager Denise Alborough, Senior Accounts Clerk Caroline Newman, Accounts Clerk
SCAE COMMITTEES Membership Committee Luigi Morello, Chair Heinz Trachsel, Vice Chair Tomasz Obracaj Andrew Tolley Tibor Hajcsunk Dale Harris Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos Tibor Varady Isa Verschraegen David Veal Jayne Richards Jackie Malone Education Committee Ludovic Maillard, Chair Paul Stack Ben Townsend Paul Meikle-Janney Edouard Thomas John Thompson Morten Münchow Panagiotis Konstantinopoulos David Veal Susan Hollins Annemarie Tiemes
SCAE COMMUNITY
Events Committee Patrizia Cecchi, Chair Willem Huisman Grace O’Shaughnessy Anke Erichsen Brita Folmer David Veal Garret Buckley Annemarie Tiemes Marketing Committee Christina Meinl, Chair Johan Damgaard Dale Harris Maurizio Giuli Jörg Krahl David Veal James Humpoletz Audit Committee Nils Erichsen, Chair Mark Rose David Veal David Hewitt International Development Committee Alberto Polojac, Chair Mick Wheeler Colin Smith Angel Mario Martinez Garcia Inyoung Kim (Anna) Nick Watson David Veal Research Committee Chahan Yeretzian, Chair Morten Munchow, Vice Chair Frank Neuhausen Lauro Fioretti Edouard Thomas David Veal
OTHER SCAE ORGANISATIONS SCAE President’s Council President Paul Stack (Ireland) Past President Cosimo Libardo (Italy) Vice President Christina Meinl (Austria) Treasurer Nils Erichsen (Germany) Executive Director David Veal (UK) Drewry Pearson (Ireland) SCAE Ambassadors SCAE has named the following Past Presidents of the Association as its Ambassadors: Alf Kramer (Norway) Patrick Bewley (Ireland) Mick Wheeler (UK) Trygve Klingenberg (Norway) Tomasz Obracaj (Poland) Colin Smith (UK) Max Fabian (Italy) Nils Erichsen (Germany) Marc Käppelli (Switzerland) Drewry Pearson (Ireland) Cosimo Libardo (Italy)
World Coffee Events (Jointly Owned By SCAE/SCAA) Chair - Marcus Boni SCAE Director - David Veal SCAA Director - Ric Reinhart Managing Director - Cindy Ludviksen Treasurer - Drewry Pearson
NATIONAL COORDINATORS EUROPEAN CHAPTERS AUSTRIA Günter Stölner, e: office@cimbali.at BELARUS Maryna Voskresenskaya, e: maryna.vaskrasenskaya@gmail.com BELGIUM Kathleen Serdons, e: kathleenserdons@gmail.com BULGARIA Nikolay Litov, e: n.litov@ibeco.bg CZECH REPUBLIC Stepan Neubauer, e: stepanneubauer@gmail.com DENMARK Lene Hyldahl, e: lenehyldahl@gmail.com FINLAND Viivi Ahtiainen, e: viivi.ahtiainen@gmail.com FRANCE Patrick Mas, e: mas-patrick33@orange.fr GERMANY Peter Muschiol, e: pm@muschiolconsulting.de GREECE Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos, e: info@coffeeisland.gr HUNGARY Gergely Boross, e: gergely.boross@gmail.com ICELAND Njall Bjorgvinsson, e: cafenjall@gmail.com IRELAND Alan Andrews, e: alan@coffeeculture.ie ITALY Dario Ciarlantini, e: dario.ciarlantini@gmail.com LATVIA Martins Dzenis, e: martins@kcs.lv LITHUANIA Darius Vezelis, e: darius.vezelis@gmail.com NETHERLANDS Peter Eijl, e: peter@doppio-espresso.nl NORWAY Marit Lynes, e: info@kaffe.no
PORTUGAL Claudia Pimentel, e: claudia.pimentel@aicc.pt POLAND Anna Oleksak, e: a.oleksak@kofibrand.bl ROMANIA Silvia Constantin, e: silvia@kiruna.ro RUSSIA Alexander Tsibaev, e: tsibaev@madian.su SERBIA Milos Stupar, e: milos.stupar.kistu@gmail.com SLOVAKIA Tomas Callo, e: cafe@dublincafe.sk SLOVENIA Gasper Trpin, e: gasper.trpin@romita.si SPAIN Elisabet Sereno, e: sereno.elisabet@gmail.com SWEDEN John Dester e: john@dester.se SWITZERLAND Philip Henauer, e: Henauer@heanauer-kaffee.ch TURKEY Aysin Aydogdu, e: info@mambocino.com UNITED KINGDOM Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, e: dashwoodm@hotmail.com UKRAINE Roman Ponomarev, e: info_ponomarev@ukr.net
INTERNATIONAL CHAPTERS SINGAPORE Ross Bright, e: ross.bright@spinellicoffee.com.sg SOUTH KOREA Seongil Choi, e: sungilc@gmail.com
REGIONAL COORDINATORS Sonja Grant, e: sonjagrant@gmail.com Tibor Hajcsunk, e: tibor.hajcsunk@mac.com Heinz Trachsel, e: heinz.trachsel@gmx.net SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE_Community SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE_Community SCAE_Community SCAE CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 7
No.64 | Summer 2016
SCAE
Café Europa is the magazine of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe, which is free to members of SCAE. Published quarterly, a digital edition is also available to view and download in the members’ lounge on the website, scae.com.
Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a company limited by guarantee registered in the United Kingdom, Co. Reg. No. 3612500. Copies of the SCAE by-laws are available by written request.
Publisher: Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) Editor: Sarah Grennan Art Director: Mark Nally Marketing Manager: James Humpoletz Advertising: Keith Amos Sub-Editor: Elizabeth MacAulay Contributors: Leyda Aparicio, Henry Clifford, Hannah Davies, Niels Haak, Pam Kahl, Danilea Linares, Ger O’Donohoe, Ana Raquel Henríquez, Jayne Richards, Jordan Sanchez, Matias Sauter, Paul Stack, David Veal, Andra Vlaicu, Antony Watson Cover Illustration: Mark Nally © Copyright 2015, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe Café Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429 Café Europa (Digital) ISSN 1752-8437 EDITORIAL Articles and contributions by SCAE members are invited; please contact the Editor, Sarah Grennan e: cafeeuropa@scae.com t: +353 87 686 1272 ADVERTISING For information about advertising in Café Europa please contact Keith Amos, SCAE Business Development Executive e: keith@scae.com t: +44 1245 426060 The SCAE Media Pack is available for download on scae.com. SUBSCRIPTIONS The print and digital editions of Café Europa are free to members of SCAE. To join the Association please visit scae.com/members/join-scae.
SCAE, Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bicknacre, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, UK t: +44 1245 426060 | e: info@scae.com | w: scae.com Follow SCAE SCAEWorldofCoffee
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This publication is produced for SCAE by Crimson Communications, crimsoncommunications.ie. Design by Odin Creative, odincreative.ie. Printing by Metro Commercial Printing, metroprinting.co.uk. Views expressed in Café Europa do not necessarily represent those of its Editor or the publisher, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of all information, SCAE and its agents accept no responsibility for any inaccuracies that may arise. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, including photocopying or storing by any electronic means, is prohibited without the prior permission of SCAE.
JOIN OUR COFFEE COMMUNITY Our vision is to be the authority on delivering coffee excellence. Our mission is to create and inspire excellence in the coffee community through innovation, research, education and communication. Our values are excellence, knowledge, leadership, integrity, communication, competence, education and community. Join us and help us raise coffee standards in Europe and across the world. Learn more about the benefits of membership at www.scae.com or email membership@scae.com
8 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
4,400 Members 33
National Chapters
7
World Championships
800
Authorised SCAE Trainers
570
Coffee Diplomas Awarded
67,000 Coffee Diploma System Certificates Issued
36,000 Certified Baristas 18
Years' Experience Inspiring Coffee Excellence
SIGNPOST
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 9
UPDATE
IT'S A
FROM SCAE In the biggest development in the 18-year history of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE), members voted firmly in favour of uniting with the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) in May. The motion will now be put to the SCAA membership who will go to the polls in June. SCAE President, PAUL STACK, explains the reasoning behind unification and details the next steps in the process.
‘I
am tomorrow, or some future day, what I establish today.’ James Joyce’s quote from the early 20th century stands tall. In my Re:co Symposium speech on Bloomsday last year (16 June 2015), I took the liberty of bastardising his quote to pose the thought to our speciality coffee community: ‘We are tomorrow, or some future day, what we establish today.’ Well, with our recent membership vote, we have established by our actions as a speciality coffee community that we are in favour of a greater, stronger, unified community, without geographic barriers. The members have spoken and have voted for us to merge with the SCAA in an act of unification to deliver better value for our members and the speciality coffee value chain at large. What does this mean? How did this happen and what happens now? These questions and more are ringing in our ears. I will attempt in this article to capture the journey, the opportunity and the next steps to implement a new unified version of our associations. While the Re:co speech of 2015 was a public throwing down of the gauntlet to you, our speciality coffee community, to decide if you were in favour of a deeper collaboration with SCAA, in truth the journey started many many years before. Setting the Benchmark for Collaborative Success Since 2005, the World Barista Championships (WBC) was led by a group of volunteers split between SCAE and SCAA. The championships themselves were then run by either association at their annual event on alternating years. In 2009, a Managing Director, Cindy Luviksen, was employed by WBC, to manage the growing global pull of the Barista Championships. The following year, in 2010, SCAE and the SCAA collaborated to further professionalise the World Barista Championships. We created a company dedicated to serving SCAE and SCAA members, along with vision to grow the international speciality coffee community outside of our associations' respective geographies. World Coffee Events, or WCE, was born, owned 5050 by SCAE and SCAA. Since its inception in 2011, WCE has been a global leader in speciality coffee event management, running international competitions and symposia on all five continents. The success of WCE underlines the global nature of speciality coffee and the borderless nature of that community. Thus, SCAE and SCAA have been in successful collaboration mode for nearly a decade.
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The rise of the internet as a ubiquitous communication tool, allied with the growth of interest in speciality coffee outside of the USA and Europe, were key catalysts to initiate discussions around further collaborations outside the WCE platform. Since 2012, the Education Committees of both SCAE and SCAA have been on a trajectory to harmonise speciality coffee curricula, ensuring both associations are aligned with content and technical standards. In recent years, the explosion of interest in SCAE and SCAA education programmes on the Asian continent has been another significant catalyst in urging the two associations to act as one. With this backdrop, we, the current SCAE Board, gave ourselves a strategic objective to explore with SCAA the possibilities of a unified association and, if viable, committed to put it to our members for approval before our term ends this June, 2016. The Process We set up a working group which comprised the leadership of both the SCAE and SCAA. That working group contracted consultants, Heart & Mind, to help design an organisation structure and business model following best-practice guidelines to meet the needs of a global not-for-profit, membership-based association. At our core was a shared vision, to be an effective, dynamic, and authentic organisation that gives voice and substance to the possibilities for speciality coffee worldwide, whereby we could engage, inspire and expand a sustainable global speciality coffee community through shared values and core commitments. While huge amount of volunteer hours went in from members of both SCAE and SCAA boards, the most significant milestones were: May 2015 Leadership of SCAA and SCAE met in London to build a decisionmaking framework for unification. June 2015 Both boards met at the SCAA’s Strategic Leadership Summit in Atlanta to lay the platform for a unified association. August 2015 We appointed Heart & Mind as consultant support to follow best practice. September 2015 Both boards met at SCAE’s Strategic Review in London to tighten deliverables.
UPDATE October 2015 SCAE and SCAA members were surveyed regarding member appetite towards a merger. December 2015 Proposal for merged association presented to both boards. January 2016 Both boards ratified the proposal to advance. March 2016 Business plan, organisation design and legals were ratified by both boards to proceed to member vote. May 2016 Members voted for SCAE to merge with SCAA.
Education • Consolidate SCAE Coffee Diploma System and SCAA Pathway System, establishing an equivalency model whereby students can seamlessly cross from one system to another during this consolidation. • Invest in holistic quality control systems to maintain integrity of Coffee Diploma System in line with its growth in popularity and delivery. After the first year, the groundwork will be laid for the creation of increased member value in a more tangible form. From Barista Camps to Barista CoLabs (the Barista Guild’s informal barista community get-together), along with the first events by the
At the core of unification was a shared vision, to be an effective, dynamic, and authentic organisation that gives voice and substance to the possibilities for speciality coffee worldwide, whereby we could engage, inspire and expand a sustainable global speciality coffee community through shared values and core commitments. So What Happens Now? Now that the members have given the board a directive to proceed with the unification with SCAA, we await the SCAA vote for their members to give their board the same mandate. Subject to their yes vote, expected mid-July, an implementation team will be immediately created using executives from SCAE and SCAA. Assuming the legal requirement of due diligence goes without difficulty, the aim is to create a unified 2017 strategic and operational plan with budgets, rather than the current practice of separate annual deliverables from SCAA and SCAE. In the proposal ratified by both boards, there are a number of key actions included as a framework direction for year one of the unified association, which will set strong foundations for enhancing both member value and safeguarding speciality coffee into the future. In 2017, while continuing to deliver the products and services you already enjoy as a member, we will focus on the following: Membership • Consolidate membership database from SCAE and SCAA. • Align cross benefits from each association to the full membership base. • Develop a chapter strategy for local communities. • Develop world-class member experience standards. • Develop and execute an interim member retention plan through added value. Events • Evaluate and audit the current portfolio of events delivered by SCAE, SCAA and WCE (World Coffee Events, the daughter company of SCAE and SCAA, whose current brief is predominantly the delivery of our world championships). • Assess industry and consumer facing market opportunities and develop a strategic events plan accordingly for Europe, USA and further afield. Sustainability • Evaluate and audit current sustainability efforts from SCAA and SCAE. • Define a common position and set achievable goals on sustainability. Research • Develop strategic partnerships with academic institutions in Europe and the USA. • Establish comprehensive research strategy from seed to cup. • Disseminate global research results currently in pipeline to all members.
nascent Roaster Guild, we will be taking the very best of both association’s intellectual capital and services and finding improved ways of sharing with members at a local level in a meaningful way. On a broader, global scale we will be able to flex our advocacy muscles in positioning speciality coffee on the global agenda from a sustainability, diversity and social responsibility viewpoint. This is an exciting opportunity for us to connect speciality coffee producers with SCAE and SCAA members in a real and progressive way. We will be able to focus upon and partner with best in class research partners to both unveil consumer trends and deeper examine farming practices/business models, which if economically sustainable, can have a chance of being agriculturally sustainable. It is remarkable that our scope can honestly include these issues whereby a decade ago our core deliverable was an international host of barista champions. Our members and our community should be proud of where our collective belief has brought us and where a shared vision can add up to significantly more than the sum of its parts. It is a credit to the Board, the Executive and to you, our members, to have set in motion what I confidently feel is the beginning of the most exciting chapter in the history of speciality coffee globally and the possibilities therein to ensure the sustainable future of speciality coffee from seed to cup. The unified association is committed to having strong local activities and a strong local voice, with a global strength. We will work hard to underpin the association with community involvement, welcoming the crucial involvement of volunteers and chapters, while we strive for harmonisation of technical standards and support the education of speciality coffee practices globally. Our efforts in research, from agronomy to consumption, will allow us to invest in value chain sustainability and result in growth in the speciality sector. All the while, we will be the champion of the producer, the roaster, the barista and the coffee entrepreneur. It will be challenging, but, together, we can make a positive impact on the quality of speciality coffee everywhere and the many lives it touches, from farm labourer to consumer.
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Keep up-to-date with the latest developments in the unification process on scae.com/unification.
RE:CO RECAP
SCAE President, Paul Stack, will discuss unification at Re:co Dublin this June. To book tickets, visit recosymposium.org/reco-dublin. If you missed Paul’s keynote address on collaboration at Re:co Gothenburg you can catch up now on the RecoSymposium YouTube channel.
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 11
UPDATE
Join Us
And Help Shape the Development of a Global Speciality Coffee Association There has never been a better time to join SCAE, writes JAYNE RICHARDS.
Join SCAE and be part of our speciality coffee club.
A
s you know from the cover of this Café Europa issue, SCAE members have voted in favour of unification with the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA). However, even as you read this, SCAA members are still casting their votes and are yet to make a decision on how they would like to proceed. For unification to happen, it needs to be a majority vote in favour from both associations and while we don’t know the result from the SCAA vote yet, we can view the member survey SCAA conducted last November as an indicator that the overwhelming majority of members were in favour of the move. Assuming there hasn’t been a major shift in opinion, and that as many SCAA members cast their vote as possible, we might expect a positive announcement from them in the near future. While we wait for unification to be decided, SCAE’s initiatives to inspire coffee excellence continue, and there are many great reasons why you should join the association right now. First and foremost, SCAE is a membership association, which means the important decisions that will be made over the coming months will be done so with member participation through our network of chapters, guilds, committees and working groups. If you’re not part of the association, then you won’t be part of the decision-making process.
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The stakeholders who will gain from this process are the members, and so it is imperative thawt you have your say and input into what you, your business, or the wider speciality coffee industry needs from a global association. Decisions will be taken on education curriculums, research projects, events and activities, with full updates and information made available exclusively for members. Member Benefits The benefits and advantages that SCAE members receive now are guaranteed, regardless of unification. In fact, those benefits will only be added to, not reduced, providing you with plenty of great reasons to join our association. (See scae.com/members for a full list of membership benefits.) SCAE has also guaranteed a price freeze for members who join now. This means that, assuming unification goes ahead, members will receive their existing benefits, plus new benefits at no extra cost. While the hard work begins on unifying the two associations, the rest of the speciality coffee community will carry on regardless. This will mean that events such as World of Coffee 2017 in Budapest, the 2016 and 2017 Barista Camps, and dozens of National Chapter competitions and activities will continue to happen over the next 18 months and as a member of SCAE you will be able to get up close to all the action.
Join the Club But what is the biggest reason to join today? Our research shows the most popular reason members join SCAE is to be part of the club. With the prospect of our speciality coffee club growing substantially over the coming months and years, this has never been more important. Taking your place as a pioneer in the new frontier for speciality coffee will guarantee your role in the creation of something truly special. Being a member of SCAE puts you in contact with thousands of likeminded professionals and enthusiasts across Europe and Asia, it offers the very best in coffee training and education, and unique
t the Visit us a xt to nd ne SCAE Sta ntrance e the main Coffee of at World n. Dubli
and inspiring research that is constantly being developed. All of this is available now for members with the click of a button on scae.com. Talk to one of our team at the SCAE Stand during World of Coffee and find out for yourself why this is the best time to join the club or visit scae.com/members for more details.
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JAYNE RICHARDS is Membership Manager at SCAE. To learn more about how SCAE can play an important role in your professional and business development, see scae.com/members or contact the SCAE membership team at membership@scae.com.
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www.technivorm.com CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 13
UPDATE
Apostolopoulos Appointed SCAE Deputy Executive Director Yannis Apostolopoulos, the former Business & Sales Development Director at WS Karoulias and Vice President of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe, has been appointed to the newly-created role of Deputy Executive Director at SCAE. A Q-Grader and Authorised SCAE Trainer (AST), Yannis spearheaded the foundation of the Barista Guild of Europe with Past President, Cosimo Libardo, and has been actively involved in the creation of the new Roasters Guild of Europe. A Harvard Business School alumnus, Yannis studied Chemical Engineering at the National Technical University of Athens. In a career spanning more than 20 years he has held numerous senior roles in the fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) industry including general management, marketing and sales, business development, operations, engineering,
supply chain and projects management, working with leading brands and companies, including Red Bull, Stoli, METAXA, Remy Cointreau, Jägermeister, Diageo, SAB-Miller and Campari Group. A member of the SCAE board since 2014, Yannis has also served on a number of boards in investment and FMCG companies. ‘From the moment I became involved with the speciality coffee community, I enjoyed it. It is vibrant and full of passion and, most importantly, it is a community that is full of kind and caring people,’ explains Yannis. ‘As a volunteer and member of the SCAE Board of Directors, I was dedicated to trying to help and progress the community and during my term as Vice President I was engaged with a number of projects, in particular unification. This was very important to me as I firmly believe that
Prisoners Learn Barista Skills A group of prisoners at HMP Castle Huntly Open prison in Scotland have been given an opportunity to gain qualifications and practical experience in coffee barista skills. The project is being supported and delivered by Authorised SCAE Trainers from Zest Training, St Andrews, Fife, working in partnership with Springboard and funded by the Charles Hayward Foundation. As part of the initiative prisoners have received training in both employability skills and completed fully accredited barista skills qualifications. The aim of the programme is to increase prisoners' employment opportunities on release and ultimately decrease re-offending rates. Prisoners are completing work placements within local cafés and coffee shops as part of the experience to ensure they get a chance to practise their newly-gained skills.
Kelly Johnstone, Springboard Scotland Director, stated, ‘we are delighted to be working alongside the Scottish Prison Service and Zest on this project which will enable the local team to provide excellent training and work experience for the prisoners. The project sits well in our overall objectives of helping people into work, relieving unemployment and poverty. Particularly within this group we are hoping they will break the cycle of re-offending.’ Owen Thom, Quality Coordinator at SCAE, attended the awards day and presented the certificates. ‘To support such an inspirational project and support individuals as they return to the workplace is something we very much want to continue. Sustainability covers a lot of areas and this project within the employment world is very important to SCAE.’
Lisa Cathro, AST at Zest St Andrews (left) and Owen Thom, SCAE (right) are pictured with representatives and students from HMP Castle Huntly prison
14 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Yannis Apostolopoulos
associations should not waste resources competing with each other and that we should work together to deliver locally and create a future that is borderless.’ Applying for the new role of Deputy Executive Director was a natural decision, says Yannis. ‘My vision is to make SCAE, or the future unified speciality coffee association, a transparent, membercentric, efficient organisation, providing a world-class membership experience.’ Yannis will be based at SCAE’s Head Office near Chelmsford in the United Kingdom. He is succeeded in the position of Vice President of SCAE by Christina Meinl of Julius Meinl.
World of Coffee 2017 Competitions Announced SCAE has announced that five world championships will take place at World of Coffee Budapest in June 2017. Held in in partnership with World Coffee Events (WCE), they are the World Brewers Cup, World Latte Art, World Coffee in Good Spirits, World Cup Tasters and World Cezve/Ibrik Championships. David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, remarked ‘Once again we are delighted to be hosting no fewer than five World Championships during our flagship World of Coffee event in Budapest next year. It demonstrates the true character and determination of the speciality coffee community that we are able to take World of Coffee to an Eastern European country for the first time, and we have no doubt that SCAE members the world over will be excited to learn that, alongside a fantastic show and beautiful city, these World Championships will also take place.’ Further details on World of Coffee Budapest will be made available during the 2016 event in Dublin, Ireland this June.
UPDATE
New SCAE Board Announced Following elections in April, SCAE’s new Board of Directors will be appointed at the SCAE AGM at World of Coffee Dublin.
Davide Cobelli (Italy) DC Coffee Training Academy
The new Board is:
Johan Damgaard (Sweden) Johan & Nystrom
President: Paul Stack (Ireland) Marco Beverage Systems
Nils Erichsen (Germany) Ube Erichsen Beteiliungs
Vice President: Christina Meinl (Austria) Julius Meinl
Lauro Fioretti (Italy) Nuova Simonelli
Past President: Cosimo Libardo (Italy) Toby Estates
Dale Harris (United Kingdom) Has Bean
Tibor Várady (Hungary) President of Barista Guild of Europe
Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos (Greece) Coffee Island
Luigi Morello (Italy) La Cimbali Ludovic Maillard (France) Maison Jobin Frank Neuhausen (Germany) BWT water+more Alberto Polojac (Italy) Imperator Chahan Yeretzian (Switzerland) University of Zurich SCAE would like to thank the following outgoing Board members for their hard work and commitment to the Association: Drewry Pearson, Heinz Trachsel, Patrizia Cecchi and James Shepherd.
Tour Java With SCAE SCAE’s third origin field trip of the year will take place in Java, Indonesia. Running over eight days, from 24-31 July, the trip will include farm visits, meetings with local farmers and coffee tastings. There are just 20 places available on the trip, which is subsidised by the Indonesian Ministry of Agriculture. The trip costs €900 per person, which
includes all expenses, excluding flights to and from Soekarno-Hatta Airport in Jakarta, tips, alcohol and personal requirements. To register your interest, please email SCAE’s Field Trip organiser, Colin Smith, at colin.smith@smithscoffee.co.uk or Membership Manager, Jayne Richards, at jayne@scae.com.
via Caboto, 31 34147 Trieste Italy info@demus.it www.demus.it CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 15
CHAPTER FOCUS
SCAE UK
We catch up with MAXWELL COLONNA-DASHWOOD, National Coordinator at SCAE’s UK Chapter.
Clockwise, from top: 1. 2016 UK Barista Champion, Dan Fellows of Origin Coffee 2. 2016 UK Brewers Cup Champion, Jeremy Chandler of Prufock Coffee 3. Alison Bell, BLK Coffee, at the UK Brewers Cup 4. Jana Slamova, BaxterStorey, competes in the UKBC Finals 5. Judges at UKBC Finals Day Images: Sprudge.com
What new developments are taking place at SCAE UK? We think the competitions have an ever-increasing value as a platform for the speciality coffee community. They can act as a showcase for creativity and the search for perfection, innovation and quality in coffee. They also have great community, networking and sharing potential, essentially providing content for us all to pour over. There is often debate about who the competitions should be for: the coffee community or a wider public audience. I firmly believe that the competition is an industry event – a very valuable one – and that’s the core audience. We wanted to take the competitions away from wider hospitality trade shows. Yes, they have more footfall, but they cannot foster atmosphere and community that effectively. We wanted each event to be a focused, standalone event. With the help and support of a lot of people, especially sponsors, we were able to really push the chapters in that direction this year. I think a highlight for many people was a coffee waste-inspired dinner in Brighton post-Brewers Cup heats. We also focused on improving the quantity and quality of the live streaming, which allows a much bigger audience to take part. We are keen to overhaul our website with the same goals in mind and to continue to celebrate the value of the competitions moving forward. How are you supporting speciality coffee in the UK? We believe that, by recognising and focusing on the quality of the competitions as our core value system for the wider community, we can foster and develop engagement and value there. The educational arm of our committee – Tim Sturk and Ben Townsend 16 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
– have put together an incredible series of educational talks which were hosted at the International Coffee Organisation in London. Each event was filmed and made available to all. How important is coffee education to your chapter and your members? I think this goes with out saying. Education is one of the tenants of the whole speciality community. The goal is how to best engage and foster the educational process. What are your goals for SCAE UK? We aim to take the changes we have made this year and build upon them, to be seen as integral part of the community, and to help progress quality in the UK speciality market. We feel it is the quality of the events that we put on and the content we can provide that can drive this potential. How can coffee professionals engage with SCAE UK? We hope to improve engagement with the new website. Currently people can connect to us on social media platforms and through our website, as well as by attending the events themselves.
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scaeuk.com
@scaeuk
SCAEUKChapter
Meet the Team: The SCAE UK Committee National Coordinator: Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood Education Coordinators: Tim Sturk and Ben Townsend Events Coordinator: Mat North Communication Coordinators: Helen Ostle and Chloe Callow Membership Coordinator: Jonathan Wadham
PROMOTION
MUMAC ACADEMY By Gruppo Cimbali
The Academy of Coffee Machines ‘The role of barista is changing. It is vital that a group such as ours contributes to this change by providing training for an internationally-recognised profession − a profession in its own right! Investors in the sector are focused on bar staff/operators. These emerging professionals are responsible for more than just preparing coffee, as now they look to influence the design and style of the café as well the selection of the menus to be prepared, the sourcing of new coffees and purchasing of equipment.’
Luigi Morello, Director of MUMAC Academy
M
UMAC Academy can provide young bar operators with the training they need to become professionals (coffee specialists and experts, as opposed to merely bar staff or waiters). MUMAC Academy, the coffee machine academy, or Accademia della Macchina per Caffè, provides a venue for training activities and meetings for coffee lovers and sector professionals. The Academy offers various courses, held by internationally-renowned experts, providing operators with vital know-how for improving their business prospects. The aim of the theoretical and practical activities is to provide visitors with the necessary tools for a scientific approach to enjoying espresso. It allows participants to test their ability and broaden the range of knowledge and techniques required for preparing and tasting coffee in a professional way. All who have an interest in the world of coffee will find that MUMAC is a centre of excellence and a point of reference for on-going training activities. Values: We believe in work, in turning human resources to best account, in skills and in the values of individuals who bring out their best during teamwork. We believe in training and know-how, for improvement and for generating further value. Vision: To become internationally-renowned for the quality of coffee training courses and professional facilities that serve both individuals and companies alike from across all sectors. To provide a world-class venue that represents the best of ‘made in Italy' through development of skills and knowledge for the coffee industry. Mission: To provide a HUB for/with all coffee specialists, bar operators, roasters and other sector operators, where these persons may compare notes and study questions relating to the world of coffee and the entire chain. The HUB is expected to provide ongoing training for all group employees and partners, and to pinpoint trends not only regarding consumers’ tastes, diets and needs, but also within the marketplace. The activities at the Academy take place in five specific spaces at the Training Centre and in the Cup-tasting Room. The Training Centre provides the venue for hand-on training of bar operators. It is dedicated to the world of modern bars/coffee shops. The room is made up of two areas, one for hands-on activities with two ‘master’ workstations (which can be televised) and six workstations equipped to host up to 18 bar operators, plus a dedicated multimedia area for theoretical work. The section includes an interactive touchscreen for training film material, real-time shots from the ‘master’ workstation, multimedia links, and streaming and sharing via tablet and smartphone. The mission of the Cup-tasting Room is to provide the tools for a scientific approach to the pleasure of espresso. The Cuptasting Room hosts three areas for sensory evaluation based on
a variety of methods; the sessions may be arranged for tasting panels of professionals, or for team-building purposes, or coffee lovers’ courses: • Blinding Test Station: for blind tasting sessions; • Roasting Station: providing information on the processing of coffee (from green bean to roasted coffee bean); • Tasting Station: area with professional tasting bench. Versatility, technical back-up and knowledge from professional coffee specialists provide a uniquely enriching experience for the senses! Availing itself of expert external teachers, who are professionals in this sector, the Academy can host any kind of course, conference or round table. The Academy provides modulated training on demand, ad hoc or customised for individuals. On a monthly basis, it holds the various courses of the Coffee Diploma System (SCAE, INEI and IIAC), and can issue the pertaining certification. Also included are the following courses: cafeteria, latte art (milk art), courses on water and on the history of coffee machines, plus team building for the coffee chain and meetings for coffee lovers. For each course, handbooks are provided, from the ‘Handbook Collection’. These handbooks are internally produced for the benefit of course students. At the MUMAC, where an unbreakable bond is forged between tradition and progress, the Academy’s activities do not stop at the training of professionals and coffee lovers. MUMAC Academy is a research location providing a focus for international coffee specialists, and a means for these specialists to observe, analyse and anticipate coffee culture trends.
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CONTACT US MUMAC Academy Via Neruda, 2 Binasco (MI) – Italy w: academy.mumac.it e: mumacacademy@gruppocimbali.com
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 17
IN MEMORY
Remembering Rashel When World of Coffee and the World Brewers Cup comes to Dublin in June, it will tragically be missing one of its stars. RASHEL WINN, the 2016 Irish Brewers Cup Champion, sadly passed away two months after triumphing in the national finals. Her partner, GER O’DONOHOE, remembers one of the Irish coffee community’s best-loved baristas and trainers.
I
first met Rashel at a SCAE Brewing Intermediate course I was helping out at. I was immediately struck by her smile, enthusiasm and, like many others, wondered how such a tiny woman gave such bonecrushing hugs! As she continued to improve her skills, I helped her to find some more stimulating positions around Dublin (Coffeeangel, Roasted Brown, Woollen Mills and The Fumbally). During the summer of 2014 we started training for that year’s Irish Barista Championship. During those sessions we fell deeply and intensely in love with each other and were inseparable ever since. Rashel adored our community more than anyone I’ve ever met, and she quickly became a regular face at shops, events and competitions – either volunteering, cheering everyone on (she took no sides!), competing with her trademark ease and grace, or simply talking coffee with all and anyone. Always looking to gain knowledge, she would listen intently and take endless notes. An information sponge, she put us all to shame with her extraordinary thirst for learning. Not just in coffee, she was an incredibly talented writer, illustrator and, not many knew this, but she could sing beautifully too. She was always stretching herself to do better. In March 2015 we started First Draft Coffee (FDC), the independent barista trainers. She built our website and started a blog (firstdraftcoffee.com/blog) where she interviewed many of her local and international heroes, which gained her a lot of kudos and love from the wider coffee community. Tragically, she was diagnosed with cervical cancer on 14 April 2015 which she refused to let slow her down. At first, it was treatable and during her recovery we were engaged in secret (long story). We fought through it together and I’m thankful for everyone who made us so busy this last year as it was a necessary distraction. Rashel took part in BGE’s Barista Camps and CoLabs, even taking over BGE’s Instagram for CoLab: Paris, as well as all FDC social media and our event planning, her blog, trainings, her own competition practice as well as stints writing for Café Europa and Perfect Daily Grind. She did all of this while working her ass off in her beloved Fumbally and becoming an AST – always with the world’s biggest smile and those life-affirming hugs. The cancer came back quite aggressively a few months later and since Christmas 2015, it was all getting too much. It feels as though she had to get the Brewers Cup over with before she dealt with herself. And her winning meant the absolute world to her, it marked her arrival in many ways. To me, especially knowing just how much pain she was in at the time, even turning up to that event took more guts than I can fathom. Not that you would realise, not ONCE did she complain or whine about her situation. Her only focus in life was on making other people happy and comfortable. Directly after her triumph, 18 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
she went to hospital where complication after complication got the better of her and she died on her 29th birthday, 15 April 2016, surrounded by those who loved her most. I have lost my heart and my best friend, I loved her beyond measure and have never been loved as much in return. The world has lost a unique, talented and beautiful woman whose love of life, coffee and community is something we here in Dublin feel every, single minute, of every single day… But please know, she loved you too.
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THE BARISTA WITH THE BEST BONE-CRUSHING HUGS Friends Remember Rashel
‘Rashel was an amazingly kind and generous person, one of those rare breeds who are genuinely open-minded and interested in other human beings. She gave the best bone-crushing hugs, she had a positivity, energy and smile that's refreshing to see in this hard world. She was a fighter and an incredibly passionate person. A true coffee professional, with great skills, love for coffee, and eagerness to share. She was a real advocate for BGE and the coffee community.’ Isa Verschraegen, Barista Guild of Europe ‘Rashel was an incredibly vibrant and friendly person who was widely loved and respected in the coffee community. She had an insatiable passion for coffee and the community that went with it, and was a very talented barista with a growing reputation. I'll miss Rashel most whenever there’s a coffee event in Dublin, because she was ever present and always greeted you with one of those bone-crushing hugs. She was a friend to a lot of people at 3fe, both past and present, and she'll be missed dearly but always remembered.’ Colin Harmon, 3fe Coffee
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 19
BARISTAS
CoLab Does Antwerp
Over 80 baristas from across Europe arrived in Belgium in April for CoLab: Antwerp. HANNAH DAVIES reflects on a successful event of learning, socialising and networking. Images: JORDAN SANCHEZ
Clockwise, from top: The Barista League winners; Mangoo and Ellen from Cuperus; all the CoLab’ers; the six Tamper Tantrum speakers; attendees enjoy the SCAA Coffee Tasters Flavor Wheel tasting
A
s we look back over CoLab: Antwerp, we feel incredibly proud of the community that BGE has engaged with during this event where we welcomed over 80 attendees to Antwerp for one full day of compelling education and engaging speakers, sandwiched between two half-days of fantastic opportunities to learn, socialise and network with the local and wider European coffee community. Day one launched at Cuperus with coffee and chats. Cuperus is one of Antwerp’s speciality coffee bars and the home of current Belgium Barista Champion, Mangoo Yoosakda. Mangoo introduced CoLab attendees to their brand new concept for choosing and buying coffee at their shop: ‘Every coffee is allocated to a flavour 20 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
theme with an accompanying colour, irrespective of — but with a lot of respect for — the farmer, origin, cultivar, process. We don't want to be led by preconceptions about origin, cultivar or process. So every coffee is requested, evaluated and chosen by flavour and assigned to a flavour theme. It's only then that we dig further in the coffee to know the rest of its characteristics.’ Heading off to the Port of Antwerp with Belgian national TV news crew in tow, attendees were astounded to see the volume of green coffee being stored at Molenbergnatie. ‘It’s amazing to see the scale of how much coffee is here. You never really think about that in small roasters, do you?’ asked Phoebe Saunders of Small Batch Coffee Roasters.
BARISTAS Closing day one, Steven Moloney of The Barista League entertained excited CoLab’ers with an evening of challenges set to test baristas’ skills on identifying tastes, time restrained dialling-in, and combining flavours to make a champion coffee cocktail. Teams made up of colleagues and new friends went head-tohead in three raucous rounds before the first prize was presented to Belle Montanus of Bocca and Cerianne Bury of Trabocca. ‘I feel CoLab is a great way to meet your peers and at the same time get access to live talks from highly revered coffee professionals. It really makes knowledge accessible for people on a barista salary. It's both fun and educational,’ reflected Cerianne.
‘Amazing people. Amazing coffee. Amazing city. That's what CoLab is about.’ On Tuesday, 26 April – the main event day – BGE presented six inspiring speakers in collaboration with host partners, Tamper Tantrum. BGE chair, Tibor Várady, began proceedings with a heartfelt welcome to Antwerp and nod to the community developing through CoLab and BGE, before we welcomed French Barista Champion, Charlotte Malaval, up to broach the subject of independent barista-ing. Local café owner, Rob Berghmans, guided the group on fitting an EK43 grinder into the workflow of a busy coffee bar, while Talor Browne brought the morning activities to a close with her emotive presentation on the mental impact of working as a barista. After a plentiful and tasty lunch from host partner, Coffeelabs,
the audience piled back in to De Studio for the latter half of the Tamper Tantrum programme with SCAA Coffee Science Manager, Emma Sage; Chemist, Dr. Marco Wellinger, and industry expert, Stephen Morrissey. Introducing the new SCAA Coffee Flavor Wheel and WCR Coffee Lexicon, Emma prepared the audience for the flavour wheel tasting on day three. Continuing with the science theme, Dr. Wellinger expunged some myths on water and created new questions for many of the listeners. Finally, Stephen closed the day with an insight into the café business through the eyes of the consumer. Steve Leighton and Colin Harmon’s merry chat was interspersed between the speakers, creating an open environment where we were all encouraged to share and ask questions. This conversation was carried on into the evening as groups head into Antwerp to sample local delights. On day three, with our heads brimming with new ideas and questions, we prepared for the much-anticipated coffee flavour wheel tasting with Emma Sage. After a successful morning of calibrating as a taste panel, Julia McKenna left Antwerp on more than a caffeine high: ‘This is the first time I attended the CoLab event and I am so glad that I made the trip. I had such an amazing time and have left feeling so much more inspired and passionate about the work that I do as a barista trainer for speciality coffee in Northern Ireland. It is easy to get caught up in your own bubble, and by attending such an excellent event, making new connections and friendships, it really brings to life the richness and value of the wider global community that we have created in the coffee industry. Amazing people. Amazing coffee. Amazing city. That's what CoLab is about.’ We’d like to extend a big thank you to all who supported BGE in bringing CoLab to Antwerp. We hope to see you at future events as we look to CoLab: Barcelona in November 2016.
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HANNAH DAVIES is Guild Coordinator with SCAE. Visit baristaguildofeurope.com for information on upcoming CoLab events or drop by the Barista Guild of Europe Hub at World of Coffee Dublin to meet the BGE team.
WITH BRITA PROFESSIONAL. Better water for your business – the ideal basis for great coffee and tea. Discover the difference now: www.brita.net
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 21
PARTNERS
Grounds for Health
TURNS 20
Grounds for Health, a key partner charity for SCAE, celebrates 20 years this year. PAM KAHL reflects on two decades of delivering lifesaving healthcare to women at origin.
W
hat were you doing in 1996? SCAE did not yet exist. It was the year of Mad Cow Disease in the UK, the summer Olympics in Atlanta, and Spice Girls’ first number one hit. Germany beat the Czech Republic in the final of Euro ’96. No doubt it was the year that many baristas were born. It was also the year that Dan Cox, then working for Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, and his good friend Dr Francis Fote, a practising obstetrician/gynaecologist, travelled together to Oaxaca, Mexico. Dan was there to source coffee. Dr Fote was there to enjoy the travel. While Dan was meeting with farmers, Dr Fote visited the local health clinics. He was shocked to learn of large numbers of women dying needlessly and in great pain as a result of cervical cancer, knowing that simple screening and preventive treatment had made this a rare disease in the US and Europe. This was the impetus for Grounds for Health. For the first few years Grounds for Health was a volunteer-based endeavour focused on treating women in Oaxaca. Within four years, the team began reaching more than 1,000 women annually. Within 10 years, Grounds for Health programming spanned two continents and three countries – Mexico, Nicaragua and Tanzania. A key tenet of the Grounds for Health model has been to work in close partnership with coffee cooperatives and local 22 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
health authorities. Co-op leaders play a critical role in demand generation by educating local women on their health risks and the importance of screening. They also facilitate logistics to ensure women reach the screening sites and often provide financial support for the women and their families when more extensive treatment and convalescence are required. And the partnership with local health leaders helps ensure our programme teams are working effectively within the existing infrastructure in order to train local medical staff and community health promoters, and to coordinate screening and same-day treatment services. Fast forward to 2016… While Germany may well win the European Championship again, much else has changed. Today, Grounds for Health is an internationally recognised NGO with multiple programmes on two continents. In addition to more than 250 donors from across the coffee supply chain, key partners include US-based organisations such as PEPFAR (the President’s Emergency Program for AIDS Relief) and Pink Ribbon Red Ribbon, and UK-based global health leaders such as Marie Stopes International and GlaxoSmithKline. Grounds for Health is a founding member of Cervical Cancer Action, a global coalition comprising of organisations such as the World Health Organization (WHO), Cancer Research UK and the International Federation of Gynaecology and Obstetrics, among others.
CE53 Direct Trade v_02FIN 13-05-13_Cafe Europa 15/05/2013 07:29 Page 23
PARTNERS To date programmes have resulted in more than 62,000 women screened, more than 4,000 women treated and clinical training for more than 400 healthcare providers. By 2020, the Grounds for Health team aims to reach 50,000 women annually. What’s next? Most immediately, Kenya. At SCAA Expo in April, Grounds for Health formally announced the launch of its new Kenya programme. East Africa has the highest incidence of cervical cancer in the world and it’s the number one form of cancer among women living in Kenya. Currently there are 3.1 million women in the country who are at risk of the disease. Initially, the Grounds for Health programme will focus on Nyeri County, where approximately 53% of the labour force works on coffee farms and tea plantations or in other agricultural industries. The region produces the largest volume of high quality Kenyan coffee.
mortality has fallen by 53% and maternal deaths by 44%. Yet the death toll from cervical cancer is increasing: globally, nearly 528,000 women develop the disease each year, and more than 300,000 die from it. It already causes more deaths than pregnancyrelated complications. The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates that by 2030 the number of annual cervical
e See Mor ideo ut the v Check o 20 years g celebratin or Health at ds f of Groun rhealth.org fo grounds
To date programmes have resulted in more than 62,000 women screened, more than 4,000 women treated and clinical training for more than 400 healthcare providers. By 2020, the Grounds for Health team aims to reach 50,000 women annually. In the near term, as the coffee industry continues to embrace the notion that women play a critical role in the future of the supply chain, Grounds for Health seeks to ensure that women’s health is a key consideration in gender equity initiatives. The rationale is simple: good health is a foundation of a woman’s ability to thrive and benefit from education, financial and leadership opportunities. Women’s health programmes have been shown to increase productivity and generate a compelling return-on-investment. ‘Because cervical cancer affects women in the prime of their lives and height of their productivity, the disease is devastating to families and communities as a whole,’ notes Guy Stallworthy, CEO at Grounds for Health. So many other health conditions are improving thanks to massive national and international investments. Since 1990, child
cancer deaths will increase by more than 67%. Simple screening and preventive treatment procedures can avert nearly all of these family tragedies. ‘In the last 20 years, the compassion and generosity of our partners in the coffee industry has been amazing,’ adds Guy Stallworthy. ‘Women’s health offers an opportunity to truly influence the future of coffee-growing communities. We look forward to increasing the depth and breadth of our relationships throughout the supply chain.’
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PAM KAHL is the Vice President, Communications and Development, at Grounds for Health. For more information on how to support Grounds for Health please visit groundsforhealth.org/get-involved or email Pam at pam@groundsforhealth.org
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 23
RESEARCH
PRESERVING FLAVOUR:
UNDERSTANDING FRESHNESS AS A KEY TO UNLOCKING QUALITY
In new research funded by SCAE, scientists at the Zurich University of Applied Sciences (ZHAW) examined how to measure freshness. ANTONY WATSON delves into the findings. 24 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
RESEARCH
E
ven before the term speciality coffee was first coined in the late ’70s, freshness has been regarded as one of the central pillars when it comes to defining quality. It is widely accepted that freshness can be best described by a level of proximity to the original product; in terms of distance, time and treatment. In speciality coffee, the importance of freshness is highlighted by the relationship between the duration of time since the product was harvested, processed, stored, roasted, ground, brewed and finally consumed. But, in spite of the pivotal role that freshness plays in speciality coffee, the objective and scientific measurement of freshness has often been illusive and difficult to quantify. In response to the speciality coffee community’s uncompromising quest for the highest quality in the cup, a team of scientists at the Zurich University of Applied Sciences (ZHAW), funded by SCAE, have been researching various techniques into determining how to objectively measure the level of freshness. What do we mean by freshness? The first step to measuring freshness is to clarify what we mean by the term ‘freshness’. In the context of speciality coffee, we define freshness by the degree to which its original qualities are unimpaired. However, the concept of freshness studied in this research refers specifically to the freshness of roasted coffee. This is in contrast to the freshness of green beans where the timescale, chemical and physical processes underlying the loss of freshness in green beans are different to those which occur in roasted beans. While it is generally accepted that green coffee beans can last for up to three years if properly stored, speciality coffee roasters increasingly acknowledge that roasting fresher green beans is beneficial to cup quality. As an agricultural product, the coffee’s initial condition depends on a large number of factors such as varietal and terroir, including altitude, climate, soil composition, agronomic and harvest practices, post-harvest treatment and green coffee storage. All these factors collectively lead to vastly different levels of quality as the green beans enter the roaster – affecting the chemical and physical properties of freshly roasted coffee. During the process of roasting, a range of complex chemical and physical processes occur within the coffee bean, leading to the formation of volatile aroma compounds and inorganic gases comprising mainly carbon dioxide (CO2). Once roasting is completed, a number of dynamic physical and chemical processes begin which change the coffee’s molecular state over time. There are two significant changes that relate to the quality attributes of roasted coffee. The first is the evolution of the aroma profile, and the second is the degassing of the beans. Once roasting is completed, the clock starts ticking on both of these processes – which are accelerated further once beans are ground. (See Figure 1)
During Roasting
Chemical Marker: Aroma is generated and starts to degrade
Physical marker: CO2 is generated and starts to be lost
After roasting
Aroma starts degrading through evaporation and oxidation
Loss of CO2
Measuring freshness
Changes in aroma compounds during storage
Degassing during storage
How do we measure freshness? While the evolution of both processes can be measured using a variety of methods, the aim of the study was to find the most appropriate method to monitor changes in the aroma composition. These changes include the loss of certain volatiles, but also the formation of others, which lead to a modified balance of aroma molecules that can be perceived as lacking in freshness or having off-flavour notes. The change in aroma composition may be due to various reasons, including: • Volatile aroma compounds (VOCs) dissipate resulting in the fading of the overall coffee aroma. This process can be reduced by protecting the coffee with impermeable packaging. • VOCs may react with compounds naturally present in coffee, resulting in a fading of the coffee aroma. This cannot be avoided, even with the best packaging, but can be slowed down by storage at lower temperature. • Aroma compounds oxidize resulting in a fading of coffee aroma and creation of new volatiles which may lead to sensory off-notes. This can be prevented by protecting the coffee from oxygen. As soon as roasting is completed the aroma balance starts to evolve quickly. Depending on the ambient conditions, including levels of oxygen, moisture, and temperature, these compounds will evolve and therefore change the perceived aroma profile of the coffee extract after brewing. It is here that we can look for clues of freshness – or loss of freshness – as the coffee aroma profile changes over a period of time. Working towards a freshness index Several VOCs were considered as chemical markers for determining the freshness of coffee or evidence of aging or staling. For example, the highly volatile compound methanethiol (MeSH) has a strong impact on aroma freshness and decreases in concentration after 24 hours of roasting. Alternatively, some compounds are hardly present in freshly roasted coffee and appear only when coffee ages indicating that their presence may serve »
See you at The Village Stand: VL5 & VL6
Figure 1: Once roasted, coffee starts to evolve and degrade. The research focuses on two changes such as the evolution of freshness indices and the loss of inorganic gases. While changes of the aroma balance can be assessed by measuring the individual aroma compounds through gas chromatography, the loss of CO2 and CO is determined by weight loss during storage over time.
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 25
RESEARCH
250'000
9'000
0.6
8'000
6'000 150'000 5'000
4'000 100'000 3'000 2'000
50'000
Ratio (DMDS/MeSH)
7'000
Intensity of Dimethyl disulfide
0.5
200'000
Intensity of Methanthiol
as a sign of loss of freshness. A typical example of such a VOC is dimethyl disulfide (DMDS), as it only forms during storage from the oxidation of methanethiol. In an effort to work towards an accurate and simple approach to measuring freshness, the research team looked for specific ratios of concentrations in selected VOCs that are suited to high quality speciality coffee. Among the many potential ratios of coffee aroma compounds to choose from, they decided to concentrate on the changing ratio in concentrations of DMDS and MeSH that evolve over time.
0.4
0.3
0.2
0.1 1'000
Compound
Odour
Volatility / Reactivity
Dimethyl disulfide (DMDS)
Sulphur, onion, garlic, burnt rubber
Medium/medium
Methanethiol (MeSH)
Sulphur, rotten egg, fish, cabbage, garlic, cheesy
High/very high
Figure 2: Properties of the two compounds used for the freshness index Putting freshness to the test Using a highly sensitive method of gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC-MS), the team monitored the concentrations of both compounds using a washed Ethiopian Limu (grade two) Arabica coffee that was roasted on a 1kg Probatino to a medium roast degree. Five 65g samples of roasted whole beans were packed and sealed immediately after cooling in plastic composite film with a thick aluminium layer. The bags did not contain a degassing valve and were stored at room temperature (22°C) for three weeks. At the start of each week, the ratio of DMDS/ MeSH concentration was measured from each of the five bags to plot the results over time, highlighted in the graph in Figure 3. The results show a fast decrease in concentrations of MeSH. After only one week the intensity has dropped to 25% of its initial value, and to 10% after just three weeks. At the same time, an increase of DMDS is observed by more than a factor of three. The graph on the right shows the corresponding freshness index of DMDS/MeSH over the same storage period, which illustrates a significant increase during three weeks of storage. A further test using the same coffee and experimental conditions was conducted using a packaging with a CO2 degassing valve, this time at 22°C and 50°C. As expected, an increase of the ratio is found with storage over time, irrespective of the temperature, but at elevated temperatures an accelerated loss of freshness is observed. 26 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
0
0
0
1
2
Storage time / weeks
3
0
0
1
2
3
Storage time / weeks
Figure 3: Illustration of the freshness index DMDS/MeSH for whole roasted beans stored at room temperature (22 °C) in a tight packaging with an aluminium barrier (not equipped with a CO2 degasing valve). Protecting coffee freshness with the right packaging In addition to a loss of freshness over time at elevated temperatures, the study shows how the freshness of a roast is significantly altered by oxidation – particularly in the last two weeks of storage. For example, the different O2 concentrations in both the closed and valve bags does not have much of an impact in the first week. However, by the second week and third week a higher concentration of O2 is correlated with increasingly higher concentrations of DMDS resulting in a further loss of freshness. The study shows that limiting the access of oxygen guarantees freshness for longer and preserves the quality of speciality coffee. For this reason, it is clear that packaging has a key role to play where the use of a protective aluminium barrier is used in both sealed or degassing valve bags, and in the design of single serve capsules. In order to test the rate of oxidation and loss of freshness for commercial single serve capsule systems, four different leading commercial brands available on the Swiss market were analysed. The capsules were stored at room temperature for up to 46 weeks and the evolution of the freshness index DMDS/ MeSH was monitored. The research shows that the two capsules (e.g. C1, C2) which do not have any aluminium layer, display the strongest increase of the freshness index, indicative of a reduction of methanethiol and loss of freshness over time. Meanwhile, the capsule with a polypropylene body and covered with a thin aluminium layer (e.g. C3, secondary aluminium packaging of each individual capsule) takes an intermediate position where the evolution of the freshness indices are concerned. In contrast, »
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JUNE 21-22, 2016 DUBLIN, IRELAND
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RESEARCH HANNA NEUSCHWANDER DIR. COMMS WORLD COFFEE RESEARCH
Re:coffee Re:co celebrates new thinking in coffee – innovative ways to address our challenges, concepts that build our businesses, and fuel to push the coffee industry forward. Re:inspiration We invite thought leaders from a variety of disciplines to share their work at Re:co, providing a dynamic force for progress in specialty coffee. We seek to inspire leadership, collaboration, and innovation. Re:research & understanding Re:co is the place where we share new scientific, agricultural, and economic research, providing essential understanding of the rapidly changing coffee world.
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RESEARCH the capsule that has a 100% aluminium body and aluminium cover (e.g. C4) shows hardly any evolution of the freshness indices over the 46-week period of storage. The study concludes that a fully protective layer of aluminium preserves the freshness of coffee much more efficiently. 1.6
C1 1.4
C2 C3
Ratio / (DMDS/MeSH)
1.2
C4
1.0 0.8
0.6 0.4 0.2 0.0 0
10
20
30
40
time / weeks
Figure 4: The evolution of the DMDS/MeSH freshness index is plotted as a function of storage time for four different commercial single serve coffee capsules, stored over a period of up to 46 weeks. Outlook on preserving freshness and flavour In studying the evolution of the aroma profile using a DMDS/ MeSH freshness index, the research team at the Zurich University of Applied Sciences has shown that the speed at which freshness indices increases depends greatly on the type of packaging and storage temperature. Professor of Analytical Chemistry, Bioanalytical Chemistry and Diagnostics at ZHAW, Chahan
Yeretzian, who is Chair of the SCAE Research Committee and headed up the research, says: ‘The research has opened up the possibility to use this index to compare the quality of different packaging materials and packaging atmospheres to preserve freshness. Also, differences in treatments and processing prior to packaging may have their impact on the starting value as well as the evolution of the freshness index during storage. For example, the different starting values of DMDS/MeSH in Figure 4 are believed to reflect loss of freshness already before packaging the ground coffees into single serve capsules. ‘Once we know how to assess and measure freshness we can also start thinking beyond freshness as a sensory attribute by complementing it with a robust qualitative dimension. Through these findings, we want to facilitate and promote a more rational and fact-based discussion on the concept of freshness. At the same time, we can now better assess new and creative concepts of coffee preparation as one of the most aromatic of culinary products to discover novel sensory experiences.’ Although there is much more scope for further research in this area, the research shows that a better understanding of freshness at the molecular level as soon as the coffee bean has been roasted can shed even further light on pioneering areas of experimentation, such as cold brew or nitro coffee amongst other exciting new trends. Indeed, if flavour is a primary product of freshness, then a deeper understanding about this illusive concept can help to unlock even more potential that quality speciality coffee has to offer.
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Contributors: Marco Wellinger, Samo Smrke, Alexia Glöss and Barbara Edelmann. The research was funded by the SCAE and led by the SCAE Research Committee, which is committed to bringing the latest essential scientific data and statistical analysis from a wide-ranging number of topics on speciality coffee. SCAE Research papers are available to download in the scae.com Members Lounge.
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TO LIN, E B D U I U D G E YOUR OF COFFE FEE WEEK F D WORL E’S NO.1 CO EUROP
ONS I T I T E OMP C TIES R E A H P T E TH ON • • I T N I B O I I H CAT U D E THE EX THE • S T EVEN E H T • CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 31
WORLD OF COFFEE
Welcome to Dublin! I t is with great personal and professional pleasure that I look forward to the SCAE World of Coffee extravaganza landing in Ireland and the city of Dublin this June. For those coming to Dublin and Ireland for the first time, I’m confident you will receive a Céad Míle Fáilte (pronounced ‘Kayd Meela Fallcha’), meaning a hundred thousand welcomes, each warmer than the last. Ireland is well known for its literary culture, culinary excellence, friendly welcome and beauty. While a fleeting visit to our capital city may not enable you to properly enjoy all Dublin has to offer, hopefully you will get a sufficient taste to entice a future visit. I heartily recommend you join the SCAE Party at Europe’s most popular tourist attraction, the Guinness Storehouse, on 23 June, which will be the SCAE Party to end all SCAE parties! World of Coffee Dublin also proudly hosts the World Barista Championship and the World Brewers Cup, the pinnacle of the global barista craft on show, with representations from up to 60 different countries. All are welcome and I hope the competitors’
Paul Stack
experience will both be hugely positive and remain as a significant landmark in their coffee careers. I would like to make special reference to our Irish Brewers Cup Champion and AST, Rashel Winn. Rashel sadly passed away after a battle with cancer earlier this year, having triumphed in the Irish national finals in February. Our deepest condolences to her family and friends. She is, and will be, greatly missed in the Irish and international coffee community. Alongside the championships, please enjoy the biggest and best speciality coffee exhibition on the planet! Featuring trade exhibitors, world-class seminars, The Village, a new Sustainability Forum and many other attractions to make your visit worthwhile, World of Coffee Dublin is poised to beat all records, building on our previous successes. The best way to start your World of Coffee week is undoubtedly to attend Re:co Symposium, on 21 and 22 June, which promises to challenge and inform you, as you network with speciality coffee’s thought leaders. If you and your company aim to be at the cutting edge of speciality coffee, this is not to be missed. While an in-depth article within these pages details our pending unification with SCAA, I applaud you, our members, for turning out in such force and with such overwhelming positivity to support the transition of our association to the next exciting chapter in our amazing history. World of Coffee in June also sees the election of our new board. I sincerely thank those board members who have served with me over the last two years or more, and heartily welcome our new board members and look forward to serving our members with you into the future. Paul Stack President Speciality Coffee Association of Europe
WORLD OF COFFEE Essential Info
Hours: The exhibition runs from 10am-5pm each day. Schedule: To view the complete event schedule and start planning your visit, download the Official World of Coffee App via the QR code below or visit worldofcoffee-dublin.com.
Spanning over 10,000sq.m., World of Coffee Dublin is the biggest event in its history. Here’s what you need to know when planning your visit:
Accommodation: See worldofcoffee-dublin.com/ accommodation to book accommodation.
Dates: World of Coffee Week kicks off on Tuesday, 21 June, with Re:co. The first round of the World Barista Championship starts on Wednesday 22, and the World of Coffee exhibition runs from Thursday 23 to Saturday, 25 June.
Local Info: Got a query about Dublin? Ask the DublinTown team at #AskDublinTown
Tickets: A three-day pass costs €35 and a one-day ticket is €25. World of Coffee is a trade event and online registration is for coffee professionals only, but interested members of the public can buy tickets at the venue. 32 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Connect: Join the conversation at #DublinWOC2016 and search for ‘SCAE Community’ to follow the World of Coffee team on social media.
DOWNLOAD THE OFFICIAL WORLD OF COFFEE APP
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 33
WORLD OF COFFEE
Get ready For the Greatest Speciality Coffee Show in Europe World of Coffee is more than an exhibition, it’s a melting pot of inspiration, education, networking and entertainment. Here’s what’s in store at this year’s show. Images: DANILEA LINARES and MATIAS SAUTER
Be Inspired Exhibition With over 200 of the coffee industry’s top suppliers and service providers gathering at World of Coffee Dublin, the exhibition in the RDS Simmonscourt is a buyers’ paradise, bringing you thousands of coffee solutions under one roof. Download the World of Coffee App for the latest list of exhibitors and see where to find them on the floorplan, which is printed on page 42 of this issue and also available on the mobile app. Features at this year’s exhibition include The Village, where you can meet over 35 micro-roasters and artisan coffee producers from around the world, and the Taste of Ireland Pavilion, a top spot to taste some of Ireland’s best produce. Don’t forget to drop by the SCAE Shop during your visit where you can pick up all your essential reading materials for the Coffee Diploma System, plus lots of other cool coffee merchandise too. Re:co Re:co lived up to the hype when it launched at the Nordic World of Coffee last year, and the speciality coffee symposium returns to Europe this June when it is held in tandem with World of Coffee Dublin. Taking place at the RDS Concert Hall on 21 and 22 June, the high-level think-in will include a unification update from SCAE and SCAA presidents, Paul Stack and Ben Pitts, plus business and communication talks from Bryan Meehan (Blue Bottle Coffee), Nick Tolley (Taylor St Baristas), Cristina Talens (Source Sustainable), Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos (Coffee Island), Ben Bickell (Five Senses) and Cory Andreen (Café CK). Hanna Neuschwander (World Coffee Research), Solomon Edossa (ECX), Anetrice Strobles-Brown (Mars Drinks), Prof. Chahan Yeretzian (Zurich University of Applied Sciences),
Peter Giuliano (SCAA) and Andy Benedikter (Cropster) will also present on technology and research at the two-day symposium. Visit recosymposium.org to learn more and book tickets on eventhaussecure.com. Awards The most inspiring leaders in coffee will be honoured at the SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Oikocredit International, at World of Coffee. Find out who has been selected as speciality coffee’s top educator, innovator, sustainability campaigner, young entrepreneur and lifetime achiever of the year at the awards presentation on Friday, 24 June at 4pm at the Sustainability Forum. Also in line for honours at this year’s event are the winners of the World of Coffee New Product of the Show Awards. This year’s judges – Jonathan Morris (University of Hertfordshire), Katie Gilroy (Urbun Café and Buckle Up restaurant, Dublin), Steve Lovegrove (Compass Group UK & Ireland), Ruth Hegarty (Chef Network and egg&chicken food projects) and Kristofer Gibson (WMF Group) – will be putting entrants through their paces in a Dragons’ Den-style interview process on 22 June. Head to the Sustainabilty Forum stage on Thursday, 23 June at 4pm to learn which exciting new products are awarded best Professional Coffee Equipment, Consumer Product, Roasters Product, Packaging, IT & Technology Innovation and Food/Non-Coffee Beverage. You can also view a display of this year’s entries at the entrance to World of Coffee. Finally, SCAE needs your help to pick the best photos in our annual Photography Competition. Drop by the Photography display area next to the World Barista Championship zone to see this year’s entrants and vote for your favourite via the World of Coffee App. »
EDULE R SCH U O Y PLAN cial the offi lin d a o l Down Coffee Dub the d of World in iTunes an aily p e p h A t d Mobile lay store for le. eP Googl vent schedu e
34 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 35
WORLD OF COFFEE
Guinness Storehouse
See a new champion crowned at the WBC
Be Entertained Championships Champions will be crowned and legends made over a busy week at World of Coffee, which will see World Coffee Events (WCE) host the prestigious World Barista Championship (WBC) and the World Brewers Cup (WBrC). Don’t miss all the action as close to 100 national champions from across the globe vie to win coffee’s ultimate accolade, the title of World Champion. A total of 78 judges will be on-hand to score competitors in the WBC, with a further 16 monitoring the WBrC, and nerves are sure to be running high as the competitions reach their climax on finals day, 25 June. Hit the Brewers Cup stage at 1.30 and the Barista Championship stage at 3.30 for the winners' announcement. And if you can’t make it to Dublin, fear not. WCE will be streaming the competitions live on worldcoffeeevents.org/dublin. Parties So you’ve come for the exhibition and the education, but you’re staying for the parties, right? Yet again, World of Coffee promises to be the hottest ticket in the global coffee calendar with a social programme guaranteed to bring out the party animal in you. The festivities kick-off with the SCAE Welcome Reception on Wednesday, 22 June, at the Round Room in the Mansion House (home of Dublin’s Lord Mayor). Tickets are €25 each and can be purchased on worldofcoffee-dublin.com. While we want you to have plenty of ‘craic’ (Irish for ‘fun’) at the Welcome Reception, make sure you keep plenty of gas in the tank for the annual SCAE Party, which will rock the Guinness Storehouse on Thursday, 23 June. SCAE is booking out five floors 36 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Brew Bar
of Ireland’s biggest visitor attraction for the event, ensuring that it will be a night to remember! Tickets range from €50 per person for standard entry, which includes a buffet dinner, two drinks and entertainment, to €75 per person for corporate hospitality (three course sit-down meal with entertainment). You can book your seat at the hallowed home of Ireland’s most famous brewery now on worldofcoffee-dublin.com. Networking While night owls burn the midnight oil, early birds will also get a chance to network with peers. The International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA) Women’s Breakfast will be held in the Intercontinental Hotel Dublin, opposite the RDS Simmonscourt Pavilion, on Friday, 24 June.
WORLD OF COFFEE
Be Educated Seminars Always a popular feature at World of Coffee, the SCAE education platform returns in 2016 with a dual focus – the Business of Coffee and the Science of Coffee. The seminars will run simultaneously over three days, with a wide variety of sessions to choose from. See the World of Coffee App and worldofcoffee-dublin.com for the education schedule and email education@scae.com to book your place as spaces are limited. Cuppings Located to the left of the main entrance in Simmonscourt, the Cupping Room will offer a host of exclusive cuppings from around the world over the three days of the show, including some very special cuppings from the World of Coffee Official Producing Country sponsor, Panama. Sustainability Forum Sustainability is the most pressing concern on the speciality coffee agenda, and SCAE is putting the issue up for debate at World of Coffee, creating the new Sustainability Forum for this year’s show. Along with key talks on the economic, environmental and social challenges that coffee faces, the Sustainability Forum will be a hub for innovation and knowledge-sharing. Leading sustainability associations and charities will also be present, offering a wealth of advice on creating a sustainable future for coffee. Coffee & Cocktails At the Barista & Bartender Alliance stage, pros from both crafts will illustrate how they can work together to create magic. The feature, another first for World of Coffee, will include a host of competitions and not-to-be-missed demos.
SCAE Seminars will focus on the business and science of coffee
Plus Lots More… Stay tuned to the World of Coffee App and worldofcoffee-dublin. com for event updates, schedules, and more information about Europe’s greatest coffee show.
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24.02.162016 08:47 CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER | 37
WORLD OF COFFEE
Join the Club
Looking for a great cup of coffee in Dublin? Then drop into one of the members of the new World of Coffee Ambassadors’ Club. With 30 members across the city, there are plenty of great places to grab a cup of Joe.
W
orld of Coffee, the annual SCAE coffee event which travels to a different European city each year, is more than just an exhibition – it’s a weeklong coffee extravaganza, showcasing the best talent, innovation and thinking in coffee worldwide. Attracting thousands of discerning coffee pros from around the world, it’s also a valuable opportunity to put host cities on the international coffee map and create a lasting legacy for speciality coffee in each country. In a pilot programme for World of Coffee Dublin, SCAE Ireland, supported by Dublin Town, launched the World of Coffee Ambassadors’ Club, an innovative new initiative which aims to inspire coffee excellence in host cities through a range of training and marketing activities. Beginning in May 2015, hospitality operators across Dublin were invited to apply to become a World of Coffee Ambassador. They were supported with off-site training days and on-site oneto-one training sessions and put through their paces in three onsite audits completed by independent barista trainer, Jon Skinner. From an initial entry of 60, 29 businesses were appointed World of Coffee Ambassadors. They are: Cafés & Coffee Shops Bewley’s @ Arnotts, Abbey Street, Dublin 1 Joe’s, Arnotts
Blu Apple, O’Connell Street, Dublin 1 Bu tlers Chocolate Café, Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 Café Tri Via, Lincoln Place, Dublin 2 Coffeeangel, South Anne Street, Dublin 2
Hotels The Fitzwilliam Hotel, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2
Grove Road, Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin 6
O'C allaghan Stephen’s Green Hotel, Harcourt Street, Dublin 2
Joe's Coffee, Arnotts, Liffey Street, Dublin 1
Morrison Hotel, Ormond Quay Lower, Dublin 1
Kaph, Drury St, Dublin 2 KC Peaches, Nassau Street, Dublin 2 Keogh’s Café, Trinity Street, Dublin 2 Metro Café, South William Street, Dublin 2 Oxmantown, Mary’s Abbey, Dublin 7 River Café, Lucan Village, Co Dublin Sil verskin Coffee Roasters, The Coffee Kiosk, Ballsbridge Sc ience Gallery Café, Pearse Street, Dublin 2 Tamp & Stitch, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tw obeans Speciality Coffee Bar, George’s Street, Dun Laoghaire Vic e Coffee Inc, Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 Bewleys, South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 Restaurants Chapter One, Parnell Square, Dublin 1 Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 Fresca Restaurant, Chatham Street, Dublin 2 Harvest Market, Dublin Airport Kay ’s Kitchen, Jervis Street Shopping Centre, Jervis Street, Dubin 1 O'C onnell’s Restaurant, Donnybrook, Dublin 4
38 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Pubs Brannigans, Cathedral Street, Dublin 1 Irish Whiskey Museum, Grafton Street, Dublin 2 SCAE President, Paul Stack, reveals the impetus behind the intiative: ‘We wanted to create a programme which could take energy from SCAE’s World of Coffee and leave a positive legacy behind when the event rolls out of town, on to the next European city. The Ambassadors’ Club ensures speciality coffee standards of coffee preparation and service are embedded in the businesses involved, enjoyed by the thousands of visitors and lead the way as a benchmark for excellent coffee service in Dublin. We are really delighted with our final Ambassadors' Club and we wish them future good luck in their businesses.’
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SHINING A SPOTLIGHT ON THE AMBASSADORS
The 30 members of the World of Coffee Ambassadors’ Club are promoted on worldofcoffee-dublin.com, the official World of Coffee app and through a range of promotional material at the show. Pick up a brochure at the SCAE stand.
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Investing in coffee
Oikocredit supports the coffee value chain As a worldwide cooperative and social investor Oikocredit finances producer organizations that build local economies and stronger communities. Through Oikocredit’s investment in the coffee value chain, farmers are given the opportunity to participate in both domestic and international markets under competitive conditions. In addition to financial services, Oikocredit provides advice and practical training which enables organizations to build capacity. Our financial advisors are located in 33 countries. If you are interested in our financial services, please contact a local Oikocredit representative who will draw up a customized, competitive offer aimed at establishing a long-term business relationship.
Contacts Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean: office.rdcr@oikocredit.org
South America: office.pe@oikocredit.org and rdc.sasr.office.sasr@oikocredit.org
Oikocredit AgriUnit (rest of the world): oi.agriunit@oikocredit.org
For more information, please visit: www.oikocredit.coop CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 39
WORLD OF COFFEE
Meet the Sponsors BWT water+more, the international water optimisation specialist, returns as the Event Host Sponsor at this year's World of Coffee. With water accounting for up to 98% of the contents of a cup of coffee, BWT water+more will demonstrate how water optimisation systems can impact the sensory experience of coffee at the event. ‘Water can differ widely, depending on where it comes out of the tap. The quality of water can be subject to fluctuation even when it comes from the same place. And you can taste the difference,’ explains Dr Frank Neuhausen, Managing Director of BWT water+more Deutschland GmbH. While the fluctuations are normal, they can impact the quality of coffee, and water optimisation systems can address this, he advises. At Stand F20, BWT water+more will showcase its range of water solutions including: • BWT bestmax: The established all-round solution for versatile applications in the food service sector and for coffee. • BWT bestmax BALANCE: An innovative filter cartridge with the unique zero formula. It produces silver-free pure natural balanced water without any additives. • BWT bestprotect: The ‘machine protector’ offers extremely efficient protection against limescale and gypsum residues even with difficult untreated water while also ensuring an optimum pH value.
Visit BWT water+more at Stand F20
• B WT bestmax PREMIUM: Uniquely with BWT magnesium technology – for reliable protection against limescale and mineralisation of the water with magnesium improving extraction and stability of crema. • BWT bestaqua COFFEE: Based on reverse osmosis with subsequent remineralisation – powerful, compact and lowmaintenance – ideal wherever absolutely consistent coffee water quality is required, particularly in large quantities. Visitors to World of Coffee can take part in the unique BWT water+more cupping test where they can taste the influence of various waters on taste and flavour of coffee, pick up free bottles and refill at the BWT water dispenser and enter a prize draw for a World Birdy comfort folding bike from Riese & Müller.
Oikocredit sponsors the SCAE Excellence Awards at World of Coffee. Oikocredit International, the worldwide cooperative and social investor, supports small-scale coffee producers. Among its benefactors is Panchito, an award-winning coffee producer, who almost went out of business recently. Coffee leaf rust attacked and destroyed 70% of the production on his small acreage in the Capucas region in the west of Honduras. He looked to his local co-operative, Cooperativa Cafetalera Capucas Ltda (COCAFCAL), for help when his livelihood was threatened. COCAFCAL, which was founded nearly 20 years ago and now boasts 800 members, operates milling and marketing services, a medical clinic, a computer library and job training. In its nursery the co-operative grows 18 different Arabica varieties to resist disease. COCAFCAL gives the seedlings to producers as a form of long-term credit. A significant amount of COCAFCAL’s financing is from loans made by Oikocredit, one of the world’s oldest, largest social impact investors. José Omar Rodriguez, general manager of COCAFCAL, explains ‘Oikocredit helps us with technical and marketing advice and assistance. It supported us during our most difficult period.’ Oikocredit is a cooperative itself, headquartered in the Netherlands but operating across the world with a focus on social impact investing in low-income countries. It provides loans and equity to mid-stage, revenue-generating cooperatives, fair trade organisations and small-to-mediumsized enterprises operating in financial inclusion, agriculture 40 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
José Francisco Villeda Torres, also known as Panchito, examining yellow spotting on the leaves of his plants. Image: Opmeer Reports
and renewable energy sectors in Africa, Asia, Latin America and Central and Eastern Europe. It is one of the world’s largest sources of private financing for the microfinance sector, with €1bn in total consolidated assets and €900m in development finance. Over its 40-year history, Oikocredit has channelled more than €2bn worth of development finance to disadvantaged communities via partners such as COCAFCAL. It now has more than 800 partners in almost 70 countries. Frank Rubio, Oikocredit’s Global Head of Agriculture, sees these activities as vital. ‘Climate change is affecting the survival of millions of small farmers in Latin America, Africa and Asia. Oikocredit is dedicated to offering specialised financial solutions to organisations which support sustainable farming, helping to mitigate the negative effects of climate change on income and food security.’
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 41
WORLD OF COFFEE
GETTING AROUND Leading coffee producers and hospitality industry suppliers from across the globe are gathering at World of Coffee Dublin. Here’s where to find them. Exhibitor.................................................................Stand
Exhibitor.................................................................Stand
Exhibitor.................................................................Stand
3M Purification UK & Ireland......................................................................D12 Academia Do Café..........................................................................The Village ACODIHUE.......................................................................................................D24 African Fine Coffees Association (AFCA).............................................. H2a Agiboo BV............................................................................................................A1 AgroAtitlan.......................................................................................................D24 Ahlstrom..............................................................................................................C2 Algrano.............................................................................................................. C3a Allanasons Private Limited..........................................................................A16 Allpress Espresso...............................................................................................J3 Ally Coffee Trading..........................................................................The Village Alpha Dominche Ltd. .........................................................................H16/H18 Alpro......................................................................................................................C4
Anacafe.................................................................................................... E16/G15 ANCAP SPA........................................................................................................F12 Antis Coffee.......................................................................................The Village Asociación PAC..............................................................................................D24 Asso Coffee (O.M. LAMERA srl).................................................................G23 Astoria.....................................................................................................F22 - G21 Atkinsons Coffee Roasters...........................................................The Village Avonmore.........................................................................................................E26 Bailies Coffee Company..........................................................................VL-07 Baratza............................................................................................................... H14 Behmor Ltd.......................................................................................................C11 Belco.....................................................................................................................C8 Beneficio Santa Rosa S.A............................................................................ G15
BEO..................................................................................................................... G15 Bewley's.................................................................................................. C22/D21 Beyond the Bean..................................................................................G12/H11 Blaser Trading..................................................................................................D15 Blue Mountain Coffee (Europe) Ltd..........................................The Village Brambati S.p.A ................................................................................................B15 Bravilor Bonamat ..........................................................................................C20 Brazil Specialty Coffee Association.......................................................... D4 Brew Global............................................................................................. E22/F21 Brewed by Hand.............................................................................................B14 Buhler AG............................................................................................................A6 BUNN..................................................................................................................D13 BWT Water + More Deutschland GmbH................................................F20
D28
WORLD BREWERS CUP D25
C25
C21
C19
A19
A16
A9 A7
A3 A1
VL9 VL8
B15
B13
A15
A11
VL5
C15
C18
B16
E25
D24
D22
E21
D18
F26
E24
F24
E22
F21
F22
G27 G23
SCAE PHOTO COMPETITION G21
WORLD BARISTA CHAMPIONSHIP
H21
F20
E20
D20 D17
E26
G18
E17
H17
B14
C16 C13
D15
D13
D16
E15
F13
D14
G16
G15
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WORLD OF COFFEE Exhibitor.................................................................Stand
Exhibitor.................................................................Stand
Exhibitor.................................................................Stand
Café de Colombia........................................................................................... D9 Café de Honduras......................................................................................... G15 Café Imports Europe................................................................................ VL-03 Café Marquense............................................................................................. G15 Cafetto....................................................................................................... E22/F21 Cafetto................................................................................................................E24 Caffe Izzo......................................................................................................... D10 CAFFLANO..........................................................................................................H1 Caravan Coffee Roasters - Acme & Co..................................................B16 CBI - Central America......................................................................... E16/G15 CEROFFEE (CMTECH).....................................................................................D2 CIA Packing Machines Italy...........................................................................C3 CIME ITALIA......................................................................................................C19 Climpson & Sons ............................................................................The Village Cloud Picker Coffee ......................................................................The Village Cocaerol........................................................................................................... G15 Coffee & Tea International Magazine..................................................K7/K8 Coffee Bird Ltd..................................................................................The Village Coffee Board of India...........................................................................D16/E15 Coffee House Lane.....................................................................................VL04 Coffee Kids.......................................................................................................... J8 CoffeeTrend............................................................................................. K14/K17 CoffeeMind Aps...............................................................................The Village Coffee-Tech Engineering..............................................................................D7 Comandante Grinder Technology............................................The Village COMICAOL...................................................................................................... G15 Compak Coffee Grinders....................................................................... B7/B9 Consejo Salvadoreno del Café.................................................................. E16 Cooperativa Capucas.................................................................................. G15 Cooperativa Cocamol................................................................................. G15 Cooperativa RAOS........................................................................................ G15 Cores...................................................................................................................A23 Cropster ........................................................................................................... H12 Curtis..........................................................................................................A18/B17 D.R. Wakefield & Company Ltd....................................................................D1 da Matteo Kafferosteri AB.............................................................The Village Dalla Corte SRL................................................................................................E20 DaVinci Gourmet......................................................................................C6/D5 De Vecchi Giuseppe SRL DVG.................................................................... H6 Delpac..............................................................................................................B12a Dethlefsen & Balk GmbH..............................................................................C9 Diedrich Roasters LLC.................................................................................D22 Double B Coffee & Tea..................................................................The Village Douqué Group................................................................................................C17 Dr. Mahn Coffee Inc.......................................................................................S17 Dutch Coffee Pack...........................................................................................A3 Earl E. Burt's.........................................................................................................J2 ECM Manufacture GmbH............................................................................E27 Elektra SRL........................................................................................................... E9 Empresa Aruco............................................................................................... G15 Equatorial Traders Ltd.............................................................................. VL-02 Espresso Supply..............................................................................................E28 Eureka Conti Valerio SRL............................................................................. D18 EWC Ireland..........................................................................................A11 & A13 FA Coffee Ltd...................................................................................................... A7 Fairtrade Ireland....................................................................................F28-G31 Falcon Coffees...................................................................................................A8 Fracino..................................................................................................................H2
Fuso International............................................................................................G1 Futurete ............................................................................................................. S31 Garanti Roasters..............................................................................................F24 Gelpo Coffee..................................................................................................D24 Giesen Coffee Roasters..............................................................................D20 Gollucke & Rothfos GmbH/Volcafe........................................................A10 Gruppo Cimbali SPA..............................................................................E12/F13 GTBeans corp.................................................................................................. S16 Hainan Fuwang Industrial Co., Ltd........................................................... J14 Host Milano........................................................................................................ C1 I.M.S Industria Materiali Stampati SPA.....................................................A21 ICAFE................................................................................................................... E16 IHCafé................................................................................................................ G15 IKAWA..................................................................................................................J11 InConexus..........................................................................................The Village Indonesian Speciality Coffee – Indonesian Embassy..........................F8 InterAmerican Coffee GmbH.................................................................... C25 Java Republic.................................................................................................. G18 JJ Darboven.....................................................................................................C16 Joper.....................................................................................................................C7 Julius Meinl.......................................................................................................C13 Kaffefabrik..........................................................................................The Village KeepCup...........................................................................................................D25 Keurig UK...........................................................................................................C15 K-Fee System GmbH......................................................................................F14 Kimbo UK.......................................................................................................... E21 KLD Coffee Importers...............................................................................VL-01 La Marzocco..........................................................................................C24/D23 LF SPA................................................................................................................... J9 Lighttells Co., Ltd...........................................................................................H20 Lilla.......................................................................................................................S30 Lily's Tea Shop.................................................................................................S46 Lincoln & York.................................................................................................G29 List & Beisler GmbH.........................................................................................A2 Loring Smart Roast....................................................................................... G16 Mahers Coffee & Co Ltd................................................................The Village Mahlkonig GmbH & Co. ............................................................................... G8 Marco Beverage Systems............................................................................G11 MareTerra .......................................................................................VL-05/ VL-06 Matthew Algie.....................................................................................................F2 Mazzer Luigi SRL.............................................................................................C18 Mercanta, The Coffee Hunters.................................................................D24 Metropolitan Tea Company...........................................................................S1 Ministerio de Comercio e Industria de Panamá........................ S10/S21 Monin.................................................................................................................. F27 Nestle Nespresso.............................................................................................. E8 Niks Tea..............................................................................................................S40 Nordic Approach....................................................................................... VL-09 notNeutral ........................................................................................................S33 Nuova Ricambi Srl.........................................................................................D28 Nuova Simonelli..................................................................................G20/H21 Olam Coffee..................................................................................................... H4 OpenCup........................................................................................................... K12 Origin Coffee....................................................................................The Village Orphan Espresso ..........................................................................................G27 Pacific Bag, Inc..................................................................................................B8 Panama Varietals.............................................................................The Village Paolt Organic Producers............................................................................ G15
Pentair Foodservice.......................................................................................H17 Petroncini Impianti........................................................................................A15 PROBAT-Werke von Gimborn Maschinenfabrik GmbH ................ C10 Procafé................................................................................................................. J8 Pronicaragua...................................................................................................D24 Pullman Espresso Accessories...................................................................J17 Pulycaff/Jaguar Espresso Systems ..................................................K4/K11 Rancilio Group SPA...........................................................................................F1 Rehm & Co. Hamburg.................................................................................. A17 Rijksdient voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO) .................... E16/G15 Rimini Fiera....................................................................................................... J10 Roast Magazine............................................................................................... J16 Robert Roberts................................................................................................C21 Rocket Bean Roastery....................................................................The Village Sage Appliances................................................................................................ J4 Salvadorean Coffee Council (CSC)................................................ E16/G15 Sandalj Trading Company Spa...................................................................A19 Sanremo Coffee Machines SRL..................................................................E11 SCAA .....................................................................................................................J5 Schaerer Ltd.................................................................................................... C5a Siemex International Ltd (Coffee & Cocoa International)...............B12 Sinar Technology...............................................................................................B1 Slayer Espresso ..............................................................................................F26 Small Batch Coffee Roasters.......................................................The Village Solaris Tea.........................................................................................................S35 Square Mile Coffee Roasters.......................................................................J13 STA Impianti SRL................................................................................................J1 STiR Tea & Coffee.............................................................................................A9 Ströbel GmbH....................................................................................................C5 Supracafe...........................................................................................................J15 Swiss Pack Europe........................................................................................... B5 Swiss Water Decaffeinated Coffee Company, Inc............................. J18 TATA Coffee......................................................................................................C12 The Bag Broker...............................................................................................H22 The Barn Berlin................................................................................The Village The Chalo Company.....................................................................................H15 The Coffee Collective....................................................................The Village The Collabortive Coffee Source................................................The Village The Golden Bean Coffee Roastery...........................................The Village Third Wave Coffee Source..................................................................... VL-08 TightPac Europe............................................................................................ H10 Toper Roasters..................................................................................................E17 True Systems Co., Ltd.................................................................................... H8 UCC Coffee Ireland.............................................................................. A12/B11 Uganda Coffee Development Authority..................................................B2 UNIC....................................................................................................................D17 Urnex Brands, LLC......................................................................................... D14 Urrutia's Estate Coffee ................................................................................. E16 Weber Packaging............................................................................................B10 WEGA MACCHINE PER CAFFE' S.r.l. ........................................................ G2 WhoStyle..........................................................................................................J11a Yirgacheffe Coffee FCU Ltd........................................................................S32
SUSTAINABILITY FORUM
COFFEE & COCKTAILS BGE
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ENTRANCE
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 43
SIGNPOST
AN INSIDER GUIDE TO
Dublin’s Fair City
Dublin is renowned across the world for its ‘craic agus ceol’ (Irish for ‘fun and music’) and for a week this June it will be the international capital of coffee too. While there’s plenty to keep you occupied in and around the RDS complex – where World of Coffee and Re:co are being held – there’s lots more to see and do in Dublin’s Fair City. Café Europa’s Editor and Dublin native, SARAH GRENNAN, shares her tips on where to go and what to do during your visit. Images: Fáilte Ireland and Tourism Ireland
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WORLD OF COFFEE
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lthough you’ll often hear us grumble about politics, traffic, property prices and the weather (the nation’s favourite topic of conversation), we Dubs are mighty proud of our city. With over 1.5 million inhabitants, the Irish capital is large enough to ensure that not everyone knows your business, but compact enough in size to provide a relaxed, easy vibe. Along with a pulsing city, with a rich cultural heritage, proud history and buzzing nightlife, we are blessed with beautiful beaches, mountains and national parks on our doorstep, ensuring that there is something for everyone in Dublin – whether you are a history buff, party animal, nature lover… Or all three! As we get ready to welcome thousands of international visitors to the city for World of Coffee, we’ve prepared a quick, insider’s guide to Dublin. For more information on what to see and do during your visit, check out dublintown.ie.
Sandymount Strand, a 20-minute walk from World of Coffee
D4 – The World of Coffee Hotspot Many visiting coffee aficionados will be camped in the Dublin 4 coffee shops, pubs, newsagents, pharmacies, hairdressers and district of the Irish capital during World of Coffee. Just a short bus, supermarkets nearby. taxi or DART (light rail) journey from the city centre – or 20-minute walk if you fancy a stroll – the leafy embassy belt includes bustling A Night on the Town Ballsbridge where the event venue, the Royal Dublin Society (RDS), Like many Dublin denizens, World of Coffee visitors will surely is located; the sleepy Sandymount village (where you will find Katie gravitate to the city centre at night, where a string of official Gilroy’s new Buckle Up restaurant, profiled on page 64), bracing parties will be held over the course of the week, including the Sandymount strand where you can take in some sea air, and the SCAE Party at the world-famous Guinness Storehouse – a mustAviva Stadium, where the Irish rugby and soccer teams ply their see tourism attraction and cracking venue for a celebration – and trade. Indeed, the RDS itself is an important sporting venue, home the World of Coffee Welcome Reception, which will be held at to Leinster Rugby and the Dublin Horse Show, and there are some the Mansion House – the home of Dublin’s Lord Mayor, no less. great sporting hostelries in the area, including The Bridge 1859 Dawson Street, where the Mansion House has pride of which is owned by a number of the Leinster players. place, is famed for its buzzing style bars, so expect the party to Easily accessed from Dublin Airport (approximately 30 minutes continue after the Welcome Reception wraps, and if you really by taxi or Aircoach through the Port Tunnel – but please allow want to burn the midnight oil, Harcourt Street and Leeson Street extra travel time for traffic), you will find everything you need on the opposite corners of St Stephen’s Green, are garlanded 9510 Cafe Europa Ada(125x185) AW.qxp_125x185mm 30/11/2015 14:44 with Pagea 1string of nightclubs and late night wine bars. » in the vicinity, with wide selection of hotels, restaurants,
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 45
WORLD OF COFFEE
Howth Head
Sir John Rogerson's Quay
You mightn’t meet many natives in Temple Bar, Dublin’s tourism epicentre, but you will get to rub shoulders with plenty of visiting partygoers. Nestled on the south bank of the River Liffey, the Cultural Quarter is a melting-pot of bars, nightclubs, cafés, restaurants, art galleries and craft shops. If you’re after a traditional Irish music session, this is the place to go. For a more chilled out vibe, head to Dublin’s Creative Quarter, which stretches from South William Street to George’s Street and from Lower Stephen’s Street to Exchequer Street. Here you’ll find a great mix of boutiques, studios, speciality cafés and restaurants. (See more at creativequarter.ie.) Dublin is home to a thriving LGBT community, and Ireland was proud to become the first country in the world to vote for marriage equality last year. You’ll find the party is still going along the Rainbow Mile. To mingle with the locals, head to George’s Street in Dublin 2 and Capel Street in Dublin 1 for some of the city’s best gay bars. You’ll find more great places to visit on rainbowmile.ie. Shop ’Til You Drop If shopping is your biggest thrill, then Grafton Street in Dublin 2, which runs from St Stephen’s Green to Nassau Street, and Henry and Jervis Streets across the river in Dublin 1, are your best ports of call. We recommend taking a break from retail therapy in Arnotts Department Store, a Dublin institution, which also houses two World of Coffee Dublin Ambassadors, Bewleys and Joe’s. If you’re lusting for more, then hop the Luas tram at St Stephen’s Green and head out to Dundrum Towncentre where retailers in Ireland’s largest shopping centre will be delighted to help you part with your well-earned cash. Culture Vultures Of course you can’t – or at least, you really shouldn’t – come to the birthplace of James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, Bram Stoker and Brendan Behan, without experiencing some culture. Try one of Dublin’s Literary Walking Tours (more info on visitdublin.com); see the ‘most beautiful book in the world’, the 9th century Book of Kells at the jaw-dropping Trinity College Library (said to have inspired George Lucas’s Jedi Library in Star Wars); and check out the National Gallery of Ireland, the Hugh Lane Gallery, and the Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA) for some art inspiration. 46 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Temple Bar
History buffs can rejoice, there’s plenty for you too. This year is an important year in Ireland as we mark the centenary of the 1916 Easter Rising, which was a major turning point in the fight for independence (subsequently gained in 1922). You can learn more at the National Museum of Ireland in Collins Barracks, while other museums and visitor attractions worth a visit include Dublinia Viking exhibition; the Little Museum of Dublin; St Patrick’s Cathedral where Strongbow and Jonathan Swift were laid to rest; and the Dublin Writers’ Museum. You can find a full listing of all Dublin’s attractions on visitdublin.com. Daytripping When most people think of Dublin, they think of pints, pubs and parties, but our capital city and its surrounding county offers so much more than a buzzing nightlife. Take a DART out to the charming fishing village of Howth on the north of the city and enjoy a bowl of Dublin Bay prawns before hopping on a cruise to Dun Laoghaire (I’ll help you out with that one, it’s pronounced ‘Dun Leery’) where you can walk the pier – two piers in fact if you’re feeling energetic. Follow up with a stroll along the promenade to Sandycove and its famous James Joyce Tower museum and Forty Foot bathing area which, until recent times, was a gentlemen’s nude bathing spot. If you go early enough in the morning you might still catch some local gents free-styling it. We’d advise you take your swimsuit though! The DART journey from the city centre south to Bray offers breathtaking views of Dublin Bay and the stretch along Killiney which bears an uncanny likeness to Italy’s Sorrento (in geographical terms, not climate sadly). A stop off in the quaint heritage town of Dalkey, home to Ireland’s rich and famous – yes, this includes Bono – is well worth it. This is the town which shunned Starbucks when it opened in 2008. After 13 months of steadfastly being ignored by locals, the coffee giant was forced to close its doors in 2009. For more history of locals avoiding advances from foreign visitors, take a trip to Dublin’s neighbouring county of Wicklow, named ‘the Garden of Ireland’ for its natural beauty, where you can see the monastic site of Glendalough – a prime target for Viking raiders. Stop off in the pristinely manicured gardens of Powerscourt Estate on your way, and on your return take a winding tour through the Wicklow and Dublin Mountains. On a sunny day, there’s nowhere like it. There’s a reason why they say Dublin is a "breath of fresh air".
◆
SIGNPOST
COME AND SEE US AT WORLD OF COFFEE DUBLIN 2016. 23–25 June 2016, Booth C10 www.worldofcoffee-dublin.com
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 47
SIGNPOST
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48 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
CUPPER’S GUIDE
Show Stopping Coffees
from the ‘Valley of Flowers & Eternal Spring’ Panama has been appointed Official Country Producer at World of Coffee Dublin. In this issue of Café Europa, WILLEM BOOT provides a Cupper’s Guide to the country’s coffees.
T
he Panamanian coffee industry is centred in Panama’s northern highlands, in the Chiriquí province, in and around the areas of Boquete, Volcán and Renacimiento. Also called the ‘Valley of Flowers and Eternal Spring’, the country’s prime coffee-growing areas are perched on the slopes of the Baru Volcano, and near the Caldera River. The region is blessed with volcanic enriched soil, abundant and regular precipitation and a dense, lush vegetation with consistent cloud cover to nourish and protect the coffee trees, which in turn produce high-grade coffee beans with complex flavour profiles. The different micro-climates are also instrumental in producing coffee beans with a great variety of taste characteristics. Geography The elongated shape of the country and its position, wedged between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, contributes greatly to Panama’s unique geographic features. Panama is slightly larger than Ireland and it forms the isthmus between North and South America. The capital, Panama City, has grown into Latin America’s most modern metropolis with a sprawling population of more than 1.5 million inhabitants. Panama’s terrain is mountainous and forested; the highest mountain is the dormant Baru Volcano, which measures 3,475 metres (11,468 ft). Panama has more than 2,400km of coastline with an excellent climate for growing coffee. The sub-tropical highland climate of Panama’s coffee regions contributes to a high level of rainfall – more than 3,000mm annually – which surpasses the precipitation levels of almost all coffee-producing countries in the world. Climate Panama’s unparalleled climate contributes greatly to the unique quality of Panamanian coffee. By comparing the different climate conditions between areas, we can see striking differences. For example in the region of Boquete, the registered rainfall between neighbouring areas can differ substantially. Throughout the coffee province of Chiriquí we can see daily repeated hours of cloudiness and sun exposure, which – together with the wind exposure – influence the temperature differences between specific times of the day.
Last but not least, Panama has the unique phenomenon of a subtle, drizzle-like rainfall which is called ‘Bajareque’, usually starting sometime in the afternoon, acting like a natural coolant to the coffee trees and the ripening coffee cherries. Culture Panama has an intriguing mix of indigenous cultures, which were connected to the country long before the first colonisers arrived. The indigenous Ngöbe-Buglé people are intrinsically linked to the heritage and traditions of Panama’s speciality coffee industry. Beside the indigenous population, the culture of mainstream Panama is derived from European folklore, music, art and traditions that were brought over by the Spanish and the Colombians to Panama. It has also been strongly influenced by African and Native American cultures. Ngöbe-Buglé People Since the late 1970s the country has depended on the skilled hands of these indigenous people who have migrated from their homeland in the mountains of Comarca province to work in the coffee farms located around the Baru volcano. The participation by the Ngöbe-Buglé workers in the complete cherry-to-green-bean process has been invaluable; their dedicated focus on facilitating quality has been one of the cornerstones of Panama’s success as a speciality coffee-producing origin. The members of Panama’s coffee-growing community respect the culture of the Ngöbe-Buglé people and their way of life. Many coffee producers support programmes with a focus on medical care, nutrition, education and childcare aiming to establish a better quality of life for the indigenous workers and their families. Linguistics The culture, customs and language of the Panamanians are predominantly Caribbean and Spanish. Spanish is the official and dominant language. At least 90% of the population speak Spanish as their first language, though there are many citizens who speak both English and Spanish or native languages, such as Ngäbere, the language spoken by the Ngöbe-Buglé indigenous people. »
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 49
Coffee Growing Regions of Panama
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he speciality coffee regions of Panama can all be found around the slopes of the Volcan Baru (3,475 m / 11,400 ft) and south of the central mountain ridge of the Cordillera Central. The region of Renacimiento comprises the coffee growing areas of Cotito, Piedra Candela, Santa Clara and Rio Sereno. Volcan comprises the plantations of Volcan itself and the areas of Paso Ancho, Bambito and Nueva Suiza. Around the valley of Boquete we can find a number of different areas that all have unique growing and climate conditions: Alto Quiel, Horqueta, Jaramillo, Palmira, Volcancito, Bajo Mono and Palo Alto. Renacimiento The region of Renacimiento has the highest potential for producing speciality coffee in larger volumes. Unfortunately, this area was hit hard by the onset of the coffee rust crisis and as a result the production in this region has stalled. In Renacimiento we find the lower-situated area of Rio Sereno (average elevation 900 to 1100 metres), the medium-high area of Cotito and the highest areas of Santa Clara (1300 metres) and Piedra Candela (1400 to 1500 metres). The Renacimiento region is less developed than Volcan and Boquete because of its more remote location. Driving from Volcan towards Renacimiento, you will pass the Cerro Pando lookout point with a beautiful view towards Cotito and Rio Sereno.
50 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Volcan The Volcan region is situated on a higher-level plateau along the western and south-western slopes of Volcan Baru. In this area, most coffee production can be found between 1300 metres and 1600 metres. Some experimental farms (for example in Nueva Suiza) have been developed at elevations exceeding 1700 metres. The volcanic soil of the Volcan area is sublime for the production of speciality coffee. The Volcan area harbours a myriad of farms and estates, which have caught the attention of speciality buyers around the world. Boquete Boquete is the revered and most famous speciality coffee producing region of Panama. From the lookout point entering the valley, various elements can be observed which create a unique ‘taste of place’: elevation, clouds, different sun exposure, fresh water and mini-valleys in the mountainous area that have their own specific climate conditions. The rain pattern in Boquete features rainfall entering from the Pacific side between May and December and rainfall from the Atlantic direction between December and March. In Boquete, the ‘Bajareque’ can be felt most uniquely. For example, while walking the farms of the Palo Alto area, this drizzling rain feels like a continual blanket of tiny water drops. Close to the Boquete Valley, above the town of Portrerillas Arriba, a relatively undiscovered area is being used for the cultivation of forest-grown, high-quality coffee types which have already proven their quality in the annual ‘Best of Panama’ coffee competition.
CUPPER’S GUIDE
Varietals in Panama
S
ince 2004, Panama coffee farmers have been pioneering the cultivation and production of the exciting Geisha coffee variety, which was first planted in Panama in the early 1960s. As speciality coffee cuppers have become thrilled by the flavour profile of Geisha, many farmers in Panama have become mesmerised by its economic potential. In less than 10 years, Panama Geisha has developed the legendary status of the ‘caviar of coffee’ while the scale of commercial cultivation and production is still growing. Panama has proven to possess the ideal set of growing conditions to highlight the unique sensory features of the Geisha variety. Cupping experts believe that the flavour of Panama Geisha is truly unparalleled; the distinctive aromatic attributes of jasmine, tea rose and honeysuckle, combined with the delicate flavours of tropical fruit like peach, kiwi and passion fruit, refined by an utterly soft mouthfeel of silk and velvet, create an overwhelming flavour sensation which was once described as ‘God in a Cup’. Although many countries in Latin America have been trying to explore the cultivation of Geisha, most quality experts agree that there is simply no equal to the taste of Geisha grown in Panama. Despite the fact that Panama Geisha has been drawing the attention of buyers around the world, it should be emphasised that other high-quality heirloom varieties are successfully cultivated in Panama. More than a handful of varieties have been noted for their ability to produce excellent quality with efficient volumes of production. A number of areas in the Chiriquí province of Panama — Boquete, Volcan, Santa Clara and Piedra Candela — offer optimal conditions for the production of the finest quality coffee beans: a multitude of unique microclimates, excellent precipitation, optimal variations between day and night temperatures and, last but not least, well-established know-how about the cultivation and processing of different coffee varieties.
Pacamara Pacamara was created by crossing the Pacas variety with the Maragogype bean; this variety has been cultivated in Panama for approximately 10 years and has produced wonderful, exotic tasting flavour profiles, especially when processed with the natural sundried or the honey processing style. The flavour generally features an unusual combination of a refreshing citrus acidity with a refined alliaceous aftertaste. San Ramon Another offspring from Typica, the tree is quite small but productive. This variety can be highly drought-resistant and it also has proven to be quite wind tolerant, which is an important aspect of the Panamanian weather conditions. »
Typica Typica generally produces exemplary quality with a low production volume, and almost always produces a clean and resonant acidity which will increase in intensity at higher elevations. The cup profile can be citric-lemony with floral notes and sweet lingering aftertaste. Historically, many of the higher elevated coffee farms in Panama were planted with Typica. Bourbon Bourbon, first discovered in the island of Reunion (an island near Madagascar, originally named Bourbon), features a bright acidity with a winey, sweet aftertaste.
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Caturra Caturra is a mutation of Bourbon and has the ability to produce excellent quality with higher production volumes. The cup characteristics of Caturra include well-pronounced acidity with often citric or lemony flavour notes, especially at higher elevations. Y
CM
MY
Catuai Catuai is a hybrid of the Mundo Novo and Caturra varieties. One benefit of Catuai is its resistance against the strong wind and rain which can be so prolific in Panama; the cherries do not easily fall off under those conditions. Specifically the prevalence of natural, organic matter in the Panamanian soils has proven to accentuate its sweetness. CY
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Maragogype Named after a place called ‘Maragogype’ in Bahia, Brazil. The Maragogype bean is a large, lower density bean with a subtle, almost tea-like flavour profile. A select group of farmers in Panama has been growing this interesting variety. It is not easy to roast—the beans must be roasted slowly and light enough to develop the unique flavour profile, which is then best extracted with a traditional pour-over filter brew method.
SEE THE SP9 AT WORLD OF COFFEE IN JUNE
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 51
CUPPER’S GUIDE
An Origin of Champions
P
anama coffee has been heralded as an ‘origin of champions’ competing around the world in barista and coffee brewing championships. Between 2010 and 2016, Panama coffees have won hundreds of awards and prizes in international competitions and championships. For example, the 2015 World Brewers Cup Champion, OddSteinar Tollefsen (Norway), and the 2016 US Barista Champion, Lem Butler, both won with delicate coffees from Panama. Panama’s quality positioning comes with various unique features: • The country’s ideal coffee producing environment with high elevation, rich volcanic soil and the right balance between moisture and sun in a tropical highland climate. • The multitude of microclimates resulting in unique flavour profiles. • The coffee producers in Panama value biodiversity at their farms; basically all coffee is shade grown; the native rainforests provide living habitats for birds and other wildlife, natural water resources feed plants and animals are being protected. • Traditional seed stocks, traditional farming know-how and milling methods that have been transferred from one generation to the next, are combined with very advanced technical skills.
52 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
• Innovative mindsets – the farming methods are quality focused, the farmers know they have to compete on a quality level and are willing to learn, to experiment, they are very receptive to implementing new ideas to get the best out of the beans, and some of them are taking coffee cultivation to new levels. • Most farmers are very knowledgeable and very well educated. Many of Panama's first coffee growers were European engineers and managers who immigrated to Panama to work on the canal. Their descendants mostly received US university education, spoke English and had an abundance of agriculture know how. Combined with hard work, this knowledge was applied to Panama’s coffee industry. • The farmers know about their quality, they cup and grade their coffees and they recommend distinct roast profiles to the buyers.
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WILLEM BOOT is founder of Boot Coffee Campus, a speciality coffee training and research facility based near San Francisco, USA. Willem owns two award-winning geisha coffee farms in Panama: Finca Sophia and Finca La Mula.
A Taste of Panama The Ministry of Trade & Industry of Panama (MICI) is supporting the country’s coffee industry at World of Coffee Dublin. Learn more about Panamanian coffee at the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama stand (S10/S21) or visit scap-panama.com.
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GREAT TASTE with LESS WASTE CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 53
SUSTAINABILITY
Portal to Sustainability Can coffee become the world’s first sustainable agricultural product? NIELS HAAK reports on the Sustainable Coffee Challenge which, through a new data portal due to launch at World of Coffee Dublin, aims to assist the industry in its quest for sustainability. Images: Conservation International
T
he global coffee sector is being threatened from all sides. Climate change is affecting coffee growing conditions, market volatility has significantly lowered prices and aging coffee trees are declining in productivity. This is prompting the next generation of coffee farmers to seek economic alternatives — and the industry searching for solutions. Addressing these threats requires active collaboration among a wide variety of actors — NGOs, governments, growers, traders, roasters, retailers and others. Under the leadership of Conservation International (CI), a diverse coalition of stakeholders from across the sector formed the Sustainable Coffee Challenge, an initiative united in the belief that it is possible to grow coffee while ensuring the prosperity and wellbeing of farmers and conserving forests, water and soil. The Challenge will track sustainability commitments made across the coffee sector, analyse these commitments and their results, build a shared understanding of sustainability, and push for ambitious future commitments from industry players, governments and other stakeholders. Ultimately, the goal of the Challenge is to make coffee the world’s first sustainable agricultural product. Creating a Data-Driven Portal to Sustainability The Sustainable Coffee Challenge is dedicated to transparency and to finding system-wide solutions, recognising that there are many different paths to sustainability depending on where one sits in the supply chain — from farmer to consumer. To support this transparency, participants will be publicly stating and reporting on their sustainability commitments in an online, open-source Commitments Portal. The beta version of the portal will be available to the entire coffee industry and unveiled at SCAE’s inaugural Sustainability Forum, which takes place at World of Coffee Dublin this June.
When the centralised data of participant commitments is in place we can better understand the actions taken by the sector towards sustainability. The Challenge is also working on defining a common sustainability framework that will enable us to understand how stakeholder commitments and contributions influence outcomes across the sector. The long-term goal is to develop a set
Coffee producers will have to triple their production by 2050 to meet demand. A critical point is likely to hit around 2030, when effects of climate change intensify and demand peaks. That means the next decade and a half are critical. of common metrics that the coffee industry can agree on to track the collective progress towards these outcomes. The Crisis Point With coffee consumption growing rapidly in China and India, nearly every major coffee-producing region of the world is under stress. A recent study commissioned by CI found that rising demand will require the coffee industry to increase its production by as much as three times by 2050. To meet projected demand, the industry will need to produce between four million and 14 million additional tonnes of coffee per year. Unless growers can significantly increase the efficiency of production methods, the industry will need to double the area under coffee cultivation — increasing the current area of land under coffee production to one about four times the size of Costa Rica.
Hasbulah Lubis harvests arabica coffee fruit from coffee trees on recently deforested land in Pagar Gunung village, near Batang Gadis National Park in Mandailing Natal, North Sumatra
54 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
SUSTAINABILITY With a potential coffee sector crisis on the horizon, CI coffee expert Bambi Semroc emphasises, ‘Sustainability will be essential for meeting the future demand for coffee — not just for the benefit of farmers and their families, but also for forest and water resources and the long-term supply of coffee itself.’ A critical point is likely to hit around 2030, when effects of climate change intensify and demand peaks. That means the next decade and a half are critical if we are to protect the global industry that supports millions of people, including the 25 million smallholder farmers who also serve as important stewards for the world’s tropical forests. Steps Towards Sustainability Despite these critical issues, coffee is the furthest along, of all agricultural commodities, in the journey to sustainability. The sector has made significant progress over the past decades, including forest restoration and the implementation of programmes that empower female farmers — proving that all stakeholders in the sector can make commitments and investments that drive progress global towards sustainability. Every individual, business and organisation involved in the coffee sector has a role to play and can contribute to transitioning coffee to sustainable production. Take the Challenge Since its launch in December, the Sustainable Coffee Challenge has grown to include more than 45 organisations, including industry players — ranging from mainstream to speciality — as well as NGOs, universities, donor agencies and certification bodies. As an inclusive coalition, the Challenge partners with all players in the sector and offers the group’s collective outputs for use and uptake. All organisations working in the coffee sector are welcome to join the Challenge. Participants can contribute by: • Committing to publicly stating and reporting their commitments • Joining a working group to help shape the Challenge. Each group is made up of volunteers from the participating organisations • Participating in commitment networks (learning communities) with others in the Challenge to share experience and spark additional action. Learn more about the Sustainable Coffee Challenge during the ‘Making Coffee the First Sustainable Agricultural Product’ session at SCAE’s Sustainability Forum at World of Coffee Dublin. During the session, the Challenge will launch a beta version of its sector-wide Commitments Portal. To experience the portal firsthand, visit the Sustainable Coffee Challenge stand at World of Coffee. For more information, please visit conservation.org/coffeechallenge or contact the Challenge at SCC@conservation.org.
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NIELS HAAK is Manager, Sustainable Coffee Policy, at Conservation International Europe. CI works on the ground with coffee farmers, traders, roasters and retailers to promote environmentally and socially sound growing practices, create new income streams from conservation and carbon markets, and manage the Sustainable Coffee Challenge. conservation.org
@conservationorg
Learn More at World of Coffee Conservation International will present the Sustainable Coffee Challenge and launch the new Commitments Portal at the SCAE Sustainability Forum at World of Coffee Dublin on 25 June. Find out more at worldofcoffee-dublin.com.
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CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 55
REPORT FROM ORIGIN
Empowering Women in Coffee During a recent trip to the CECANOR Co-operative in Northern Peru, HENRY CLIFFORD met VICTOR ROJAS DIAZ, the co-founder of Café Femenino, a project that empowers women all over the world.
C
offee may unite the women involved with Café Femenino, but this is not all they have in common. They have overcome adversity and the programme has helped them deal with barriers they face, change the way women are viewed, and the role they play in their society. The programme has been such a success that the World Bank recently asked the Café Femenino team to give a presentation on development at grassroots level. This movement started in Peru where the idea was conceived by Isabel Uriarte Latorre. She launched the initiative, together with her husband, Victor Rojas Diaz, in 2003, working with the Organic Products Trading Company (OPTCO), a green coffee importer in the United States. The partnership began as a means to create a market for Café Femenino coffee and to highlight and promote the values of the programme. Lessons were learned from the experience in Peru and the model was soon adapted across the coffee-growing belt, expanding to countries such as Bolivia, Mexico and Rwanda. At the end of my visit to Peru, I caught up with Victor to learn more about Café Femenino and the support it offers women in coffee-producing regions. HC: So how did it all begin? VRD: My wife and I are children of small producers from the Andean part of the Cajamarca region so interest in small producers was natural. We met studying sociology at university in Chiclayo. Our case studies led us to examine all parts of society and we chose to study small producers of various different products to further understand the challenges they face and to see where we could provide assistance. We founded an NGO called CICAP (Centro de investigación, capacitación, asesoria y promovia) in 1979 to gain funding for projects to provide training and assistance to small producers. We found a common theme, which was that they were often divided, lacked infrastructure, and lacked access to credit and expertise. Often, the middleman took advantage of these realities. We gained experience in the field, first working with small producers of a variety of foods, then sugar refineries, and then producers of corn, cotton and mango. It wasn’t until 1992 – 13 years after CICAP was founded – that we started working with our first coffee producers in La Florida, Cajamarca. The idea was to help the producers better market their coffee and provide training and assistance to the producers in this region. 56 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
Isabel Uriarte Latorre and Victor Rojas Diaz
Back then what was the situation like for coffee in Peru? In 1969, there was a big push to reform agriculture and the government promoted the formation of cooperatives to replace the estates that existed in Peru up until then. Producers didn’t have the technical assistance to look after and improve their land and they didn’t receive this from the cooperatives. Cooperatives were poorly skilled at marketing their coffee and often did not pay producers on time, which led to many falling by the wayside. In 1992 there was a massive price collapse and the NYC fell to US$45/qq and middlemen manipulated prices so that producers only received US$25/qq, which didn’t even cover the cost of production. As a response to this awful reality and producers’ suspicion of cooperatives, we promoted and founded ASPRO, the Association of Organic Producers of La Florida region (Associacion de productores
REPORT FROM ORIGIN
Sheyla de la Cruz, daughter of a producer partner at ASPROAGRO
organicos de la Florida), which was, for all intents and purposes, a cooperative in all but name. CICAP’s reputation helped convince producers of the value of forming ASPRO. ASPRO’s aim was to pool resources and share technical assistance, providing its members with access to finance and better marketing of their coffee. This was not enough, however, as we very quickly realised that we needed to take control of more of the supply chain to ensure a fair deal for the producers. We found that people were not getting rewarded financially for producing better coffee. Was exporting the answer? It was. In 1992 and 1993 CICAP successfully bought and exported ASPRO’s coffee. So how did it go? We realised that there was much more work to be done and more scope for us to improve. It was our first experience in buying and exporting coffee and this was evident with what happened next. Lack of experience with the NYC caused us to suffer a loss of $80,000 in 1994, as we bought coffee at US$ 250/qq which fell to US$150/qq two weeks later. We were then left with very expensive coffee, which we didn’t have a buyer for. The price collapse put everything we had been striving to achieve at risk.
Children at school in Corral de Piedra village funded by Café Femenino farmers
producers under one umbrella. In 1999, CECANOR Cooperative (la Central de Cafetaleros del Nororiente) was founded. The following year we obtained our Fairtrade certification. Offering coffee that was both organic and Fairtrade-certified was important for us as it helped us achieve our goals of producing coffee in a sustainable way and also one that offered some protection against the volatility of the NYC. Obtaining the Fairtrade certification consolidated the strategic alliance of CICAP, PROASSA, CECANOR and OPTCO. We had been working closely with OPTCO since 1994 and they were a key partner in promoting and creating a market for coffee. Each facet of the alliance had very different roles that complemented each other according to their capacity and area of speciality. This network of institutions helped build an image of quality and prestige. The volume of coffee sold grew and grew and the long-term relationship with OPTCO is testament to the success of this alliance. »
How did you cope with this major setback? The structure and experience of CICAP was not sufficient to buy and sell coffee so we had to decide whether to stick to technical assistance, or find a way to market and sell the producers’ coffee more effectively. We went for the latter. CICAP and the producers formed PROASSA, to take control of the marketing and exporting of the coffee at a more professional level. PROASSA and CICAP shared the responsibility of providing support to farmers, compliance with organic certs etc. Were you still just working with producers in La Florida? No. We had expanded into other regions and were working with producers in Lambayeque, Cajamarca and Amazonas. How does the CECANOR co-operative fit in? In 1999 we began thinking about Fairtrade and the benefits it could bring to the producers we work with. We talked to the Fairtrade organisation and they wanted one organisation to communicate with. At the time we were quite fragmented as we had our regional associations (ASPRO among various others), CICAP and PROASSA. PROASSA promoted the organisation abroad, coordinating certifications, monitoring quality at all stages of production, providing stability (at management level and financially), and covering all the needs of the members. CICAP depended on external funding so it helped out where it could, but was not able to provide support all the time. We thought it was time to establish a cooperative that would fill the missing piece in the institutional puzzle and would unite all the CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 57
REPORT FROM ORIGIN
‘We realised that women in coffee communities were often helping out at the farm and also running the house. However, in spite of all this, it was always the man who sold the coffee and received the money. Often, the money was not shared with the rest of the family.’ The Andes
So when was Café Femenino born? Café Femenino has its roots in CICAP, where gender equality was always very important for us and was something that we strived to promote. We realised that women in coffee communities were often helping out at the farm and also running the house. However, in spite of all this, it was always the man who sold the coffee and received the money. Often, the money was not shared with the rest of the family. An idea surfaced – how do we incorporate women into the management and sales aspect of the coffee? How do we improve the lives of women and empower them to lead their communities? We wanted to continue to offer a quality coffee, made by women, and to create and cement a space for women to lead the community and contribute to protecting the environment. My wife, Isabel, proposed the idea of a women-only coffee to Garth & Gay Smith (co-founders of OPTCO) in 2003. In conjunction with them, the name and logo of Café Femenino was launched and in 2004 we sold our first container of Café Femenino coffee to OPTCO. We also gave a presentation about the programme at the SCAA Event that year. Additionally, there is also the foundation. Garth & Gay Smith established the Café Femenino Foundation in 2004 in the US. It’s a licensed, non-profit foundation which has continued to raise funds for grant requests from women in coffee-producing regions around the world. The roasters who buy Café Femenino coffee are required to contribute donations to the Café Femenino Foundation to fund these projects. Café Femenino has highlighted the hard work of women that was often not visible. This recognition has given women respect and self-esteem, and has enabled them to participate in and make decisions that they were previously denied. In communities where the programme is present, abuse and marginalisation have been greatly reduced. How do you take part and how is the premium raised? Women coffee producers have the opportunity to be part of the Café Femenino programme if they have a plot of coffee and are willing to comply with the norms of the Café Femenino programme, Fairtrade, and organic coffee production standards and requirements. They must also play an active role in the development of their community. The premium of Café Femenino Fairtrade Organic coffee is split by US$30c/lb for organic
58 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
production, US$20c/lb for Fairtrade, and US$3c/lb for the Café Femenino. As you can see, the Fairtrade and organic premiums are essential to Café Femenino. Additionally, organic production contributes to the health and wellbeing of the family and the environment where coffee is grown. When did Café Femenino go global? To promote Café Femenino, with the support of CORDAID (Dutch development organisation) and in conjunction with OPTCO, we held in 2009 a summit in Chiclayo which all the international partners attended. Since then, OPTCO has expanded the Café Femenino programme to many more countries. This has benefited many women around the world, providing them with the social standards that have been established and the training and assistance that have been proven to improve coffee quality. What does the future hold for Café Femenino? We hope to expand on the number of women in the programme and continue to promote greater gender equality in families, cooperatives, and communities the world over.
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HENRY CLIFFORD is a Coffee Trader with D.R. Wakefield.
CAFÉ FEMENINO & D.R. WAKEFIELD In 2009, D.R. Wakefield & Co Ltd partnered with OPTCO to supply Café Femenino green coffee into the UK and Europe, focusing on coffee from Peru and Bolivia. We are proud to be a part of this magnificent supply chain, and our strategic alliance with OPTCO has allowed us to promote the fantastic quality and provenance of Café Femenino coffees to a wider audience. Long may its growth and development continue! Please contact trade@dwakefield.com for any inquiries. For more about Café Femenino, visit optco.com/cafe_femenino.
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Coffee Community Champions CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 59 MULMAR_WP.indd 2
29/09/2015 14:49
COFFEE ECONOMICS
The Future of Speciality
Mick Wheeler
Coffee economist, MICK WHEELER, joins the Café Europa team as a columnist in this issue. In his first article, he examines the differences between the US and European speciality markets and examines the impact the speciality sector has had on the coffee industry.
W
hen looking to the future of speciality coffee, it would be very easy to argue that it has lost its way, with speciality coffee rapidly becoming an integral part of the mainstream range. Indeed ‘speciality’ and ‘mainstream’ have always been bedfellows in the same industry and I have often argued that, where speciality goes today, mainstream goes tomorrow. This is actually a good thing, for the speciality movement has been the dynamic element that has saved the mainstream industry from itself. Many working in coffee today will not recall the turmoil the industry faced during the 1980s, when consumption was stagnant and coffee was regarded as an old person’s drink. The 1975 price hike lost us many existing consumers and, worse still, we were not attracting new consumers who preferred soft drinks to coffee. The industry was floundering and we had no idea how to attract young customers. The speciality movement, however you wish to define it, emerged. Based on American-style coffee shops and Italian espresso, but also on better quality coffee and more exotic presentation, it proved to be the game changer. Our movement started off in America where coffee quality, despite being the nation’s best-loved beverage, was not good. Part of the problem was that most restaurants provide additional fillups for free so there was little incentive to give the customer a good coffee as this would erode profit margins. Nevertheless, despite the initial resistance, serving better quality coffee and charging for each cup proved to be a winner. Television programmes, such as Friends, which centred on a coffee shop, played an important role in making coffee trendy and attractive to new consumers. Europe, for its part was, at first, fairly dismissive of this new American trend, believing that it had always concentrated on quality. However, the force proved too strong, especially the lure of new consumers and opportunity this presented to new entrepreneurs. Despite the resistance of the traditional industry, the phenomenon rapidly moved across the Atlantic and became a firm component of the European industry. Now there are some small, but nevertheless important, differences between the American and European speciality industries. Surprisingly, Europe is more fragmented with a greater number of independent participants than in the US. According to the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA), 45% of the speciality coffee retailers in the US are chains or franchises, while in Europe the number varies between 15% and 25% depending on the definition of what constitutes a chain and what constitutes a speciality coffee retailer. 60 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
In addition, the European speciality coffee sector encompasses a much broader range of regional brewing preferences than is evident in America. Northern Europe shows a greater preference for stronger, filter-brewed coffee, generally served black, and Southern Europe favours straight espresso, while the traditional cezve/ibrik method of preparation remains popular in Greece, Turkey and Eastern Europe, and predominantly milkbased espresso beverages dominate the UK and Irish speciality coffee scene.
If consumers become disillusioned by coffee products that purport to be speciality but aren’t, then everyone in the industry, including speciality, will suffer. However, and this is the interesting point, the American speciality movement appears to have been more successful in raising the overall quality profile of coffee consumption in general than the European speciality coffee movement. Graph 1., shows that, if quality is determined by the premiums paid for the coffee, then the standard of imports of coffee in America has improved significantly, while the quality of imports into the major markets of Europe, especially Germany, appears to have declined. I accept that the situation is not as clear-cut. It could well be, for example, that the European industry started off from a much higher base. What I believe has happened, however, is that in Europe there has been a greater polarisation with the supermarket discounters leading the charge to the bottom on quality in order to sell coffee at the lowest price possible, while the more independent outlets have trended toward better quality. This has left a huge gap in the usage of more average quality coffees. Other statistics on imports tend to support this analysis.
COFFEE ECONOMICS Difference Between the Unit Value of Coffee Imports and The ICO Composite Indicator Price 1990-2015 (Eive year moving average)
40.00 30.00 cents/lb
20.00
0.00
1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
10.00
-10.00 -20.00
USA
France
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Italy
Regardless of these differences, the speciality coffee sector’s concentration on innovation, Graph 1 quality and excellence has transformed our industry, making it very much a young person’s Regardless of these differences, the speciality coffee sector’s beverage. In doing so doing it has it provided all participants with a better future and a much bigger pie? concentration on innovation, quality and excellence has transformed our industry, making it very much a young person’s It has certainly been the saviour on the consuming side with the explosion of both small and beverage. In doing so, has it provided all participants with a better larger chain coffee shops suggesting that this is a profitable business to be in. And indeed, future and a much bigger pie? although the evidence is mixed, it appears that in some countries roasters’ gross margins have increased substantially, especially in Italy and the USA, although in Germany and It has certainly been the saviour on the consuming side with the France they appear to have remained somewhat static. (See Graph 2.) explosion of both small and larger chain coffee shops suggesting that this is a profitable business to be in. And, indeed although Graph 2:
the evidence is mixed, it appears that in some countries roasters’ gross margins have increased substantially, especially in Italy and the USA, although in Germany and France they appear to have remained somewhat static. (See Graph 2.)
Gross Value Added 1990-2015
(Five year moving average of the difference between the price of roasted coffee and the unit value of green coffee imports x 1.19 )
differentials tend to get firmer the weaker the futures market, but the relationship is far from linear. Unfortunately there are very few coffee producers, even those who produce high quality, who can realistically expect to make a profit this year, given the C contract at around 120 cents/lb. The widespread adoption of speciality coffee credentials and characteristics by mainstream has been good for the coffee industry as a whole, and while this has encouraged some mainstream roasters to improve the quality of the coffee they use, the practice is not widespread, and herein lies the threat. If consumers become disillusioned by coffee products that purport to be speciality but aren’t, then everyone in the industry, including speciality, will suffer. The challenge for speciality is not only to maintain its distinction from mainstream but also to consistently deliver a far superior product. Of course, to do so, it must continue to source the highquality coffees it requires and this is something it may well struggle to do, especially if it continues to rely on the pricing methodology used by mainstream for buying the bulk of its requirements. It is a recipe for disaster and one the sector must address. I know that the speciality sector has tried to find a new pricing methodology, with a small number of importers using contracts that both set minimum prices but also allow for the producer to participate in any price increase, however it still locks both parties into a price discovery mechanism linked to the C contract. Other initiatives include the original impetus for the Q grading system, which was the desire to create an alternative market for quality coffees, based around the scores, but this proved impossible to realise. Failure to come up with something more meaningful is obviously a barrier, but it should not be an excuse – we must all try harder!
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MICK WHEELER is an agricultural economist, specialising in tropical commodities, particularly coffee and cocoa. A former Executive Director of SCAE, he is the Overseas Representative of the Papua New Guinea Coffee Industry Corporation and serves as Papua New Guinea's Permanent Representative to the International Coffee Organisation (ICO).
800.00
cents/lb
700.00 600.00 500.00 400.00 300.00 100.00 0.00
1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
200.00
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France
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Graph 2 The question is, have all producers benefitted equally in this bonanza? Unfortunately not. Producers who are able to sell their coffee on an outright basis – the Jamaica Blue The question is, have all producers benefited equally in this bonanza? Mountains, the Panamanian Geishas, the Hawaiian Konas and so on have clearly all Unfortunately not. Producers who are able to sell their coffee on an benefitted. The Cup of Excellence has done wonders for those who produce the winning quality lots despite their small size. But what about the rest? Well, while some caution is outright basis – the Jamaica Blue Mountains, the Panamanian Geishas, required in as much as differentials fluctuate as a matter of course, there has been a the Hawaiian Konas and so on have clearly all benefited. The Cup of discernible steady upward trend in the premiums for quality over the last 30 years. Excellence has done wonders for those who produce the winning quality lots despite their small size. But what about the rest? Well, while However, producing better quality coffee costs more and there is increasing evidence of growers abandoning some of the top tasting varieties, such as pacamara and maragogype, some caution is required in as much as differentials fluctuate as a in favour of higher-yielding, more commercial varieties as these are more profitable than matter of course, there has been a discernible steady upward trend in the boutique varieties which excite many a barista and coffee aficionado. Of course, such a the premiums for quality over the last 30 years. generalisation does not apply to all. However, producing better quality coffee costs more and there is increasing evidence of growers abandoning some of the top tasting Nevertheless the bulk of global production, including most speciality coffees, is still priced against the C contract or London. Consequently most producers remain price-takers rather varieties, such as pacamara and maragogype, in favour of higherthan price-setters and as a result suffer huge volatility in their returns. I do not deny that yielding, more commercial varieties as these are more profitable there are some compensating factors in that differentials tend to get firmer the weaker the than the boutique varieties which excite many a barista and coffee futures market, but the relationship is far from linear. Unfortunately there are very few aficionado. Of course, such a generalisation does not apply to all. coffee producers, even those who produce high quality, who can realistically expect to make Nevertheless the bulk of global production, including most a profit this year, given the C contract at around 120 cents/lb. speciality coffees, is still priced against the C contract or London. The widespread adoption of speciality coffee credentials and characteristics by mainstream Consequently most producers remain price-takers rather than has been good for the coffee industry as a whole, and while this has encouraged some price-setters and as a result suffer huge volatility in their returns. mainstream roasters to improve the quality of the coffee they use, the practice is not Iwidespread, and herein lies the threat. If consumers become disillusioned by coffee do not deny that there are some compensating factors in that products that purport to be speciality but aren’t, then everyone in the industry, including speciality, will suffer.
CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 61
ADVICE
How To…
Run a Profitable Food Operation
Foodservice can be a tricky and expensive operation – get it wrong and it can be a costly drain on your business. Coffeeangel’s KARL PURDY offers some advice on creating a sustainable food offering.
‘I
’ve been been lucky to be successful, but I’ve also been lucky to be a failure. Without that, I wouldn’t be as clearly focused on what I need to do.’ Karl Purdy, the man behind Dublin’s award-winning Coffeeangel group, has learned the hard way about what it takes to run a successful business. His restaurant, Bond – a popular eatery with a garland of great reviews – closed in 2001, mired in debt and leaving him ‘completely wiped out’. Down, but not out, Karl bounced back, first with a coffee cart on the pier of Howth, the picturesque fishing village in North Dublin which is popular with daytrippers and holidaymakers. ‘I bought myself a little three-wheeler Piaggio van from Germany and rang up the local council to get a permit. They thought I was crazy. My first day was St Patrick’s Day – 17 March – in 2004. It was the most beautiful day in Dublin and there was an instant queue. Always look for the prams when choosing a location. Wherever you find prams, you’ll find exhausted parents needing a coffee!’
62 SUMMER 2016 | CAFÉ EUROPA
When supplementing his weekend trade on the coast with midweek business, Karl began trading in the Wednesday market at the Irish Financial Services Centre (IFSC), Dublin’s financial district. The market waned, but Coffeeangel’s trade remained strong and he was offered a permanent spot on the bank of the River Liffey, serving the city’s bankers and stockbrokers with their morning caffeine fix. The 4.30am starts in the howling winters on Dublin’s quays were a far cry from his first sunny day in Howth. ‘It was tough. In fact, it was absolutely brutal, but I was a one-man show and I could do it all,’ recalls Karl. His skills in multitasking helped him to triumph in the Irish Barista Championship of 2006 – his first year entering – and to the 15th spot in the World Barista Championship in Bern that year. Today, Coffeeangel has grown from its roots on the coast and waterways of Dublin to three shops in the city centre – with a fourth in development and scheduled to open in time for World »
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# UnchainCoffeeSupply CAFÉ EUROPA | SUMMER 2016 | 63
ADVICE
of Coffee. But in the intervening years, Karl has never lost sight of the lessons he learned in Bond and has kept a sharp eye on the bottom line. In the second article in Café Europa’s new ‘How To’ series, he shares some tips for creating a sustainable food offering. Wait for the Right Premises Property, to quote the old auctioneer’s adage, is all about ‘location, location, location’ but when it comes to hospitality – it’s as much about the functionality of the premises as the site it occupies. It was eight years before Karl Purdy found the right spot for his first Coffeeangel shop. ‘I stuck it out on the cart until 2012 and when the economy changed I started to look around. During the Celtic Tiger years – when the Irish economy was booming – I could never have afforded the rents. Plus, I was scarred from the restaurant and deeply gun shy. I made a promise to myself never to go back into bricks and mortar unless the premises suited the business.’ Opening two outlets – in Dublin’s Pembroke and South Anne Streets – within a few months at a time when the Irish economy
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was floundering was a scary endeavour, admits Karl. ‘I went from zero to retail hero in seven months. It was terrifying, but in the preceding years I had stuck by my goals and hit my targets. I knew that I had the right locations and the right premises, and that if I kept the coffee tasting good and the service friendly and efficient that it would work.’ When the opportunity to take over Cup, a popular coffee shop opposite Trinity College, came up it offered Karl a chance not just to add a third outlet, but also to improve Coffeeangel’s food offering. ‘It had a kitchen in the basement that was big enough to service all three shops, and more. It could be run 24 hours a day if the demand was there so there was good opportunity to grow. It’s great to have ownership of your food, particularly when you have a different customer base in each shop.’ Define What You Are And so, once you have the right premises and location secured, the most important decision is to define what kind of business you are, advises Karl.
ADVICE ‘Are you a café or are you a coffee shop?’ he asks. ‘The profits for me are in the coffee. We are 100% a coffee shop, not a café, and the food operation has to reflect this. I like to have a food offering that complements what we are. There are other places which are much better equipped to be cafés or bistros. If you want to cross the Rubicon into a food business, that is a different thing and you must be properly set up for that. Ask yourself, do you have a kitchen that can handle your output? Do you have the storage space, the ovens required, the extraction, the waste disposal systems?’ Get Expert Advice Kitchens are expensive, warns Karl. You don’t just have to factor in the cost of labour, equipment and energy, you also need to calculate the cost of compliance. ‘Once you start slicing and dicing things that is considered high risk by environmental health officers.’ As the business owner, the onus is on you to keep upto-date with the rules and regulations surrounding foodservice. If you do not have prior experience running a food operation and you are unsure of the requirements it is worth investing in a consultant or supplier who can help you set up an efficient and HACCP compliant kitchen.
sandwiches, wraps and salads, are more challenging. The margin in a scone is much higher than in a chicken wrap, for instance. Staff have to buy into the produce that we make. They need to sell more of the high margin products.’ Know Your Market The reports will help you get to know your market and refine your menu offering. Paying attention to your customer base is crucial to profitability. ‘Each of our shops cater to a different customer base. For instance, we have a totally different demographic in Pembroke Street where our customers are more health conscious. When you’re devising your menu ask yourself who are your customers, what do they want to eat, how much will they pay and how much do you need to make?' Keep an Eye on Trends, but Don’t be Ruled by Them ‘I keep an eye on what’s happening but I don’t spend a huge amount of time looking at trends. I think I’d get too distracted,’ divulges Karl. ‘I like to take a longer term view of changes in the market. It’s not trendy to say that, but I’m trying to build a business that is sustainable, with a culture of service, quality and efficiency. It’s not based on catering to the latest fad. A ham and cheese toasty isn’t trendy, but it’s popular, and you’ll find that most people are happy with a scone.’
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Set Targets and Create Systems ‘I ringfenced my kitchen. It has its own operating costs and it runs like its own business. It works to very strict targets and gross profit margins and the shops treat the kitchen like a thirdparty supplier. The kitchen sells to the shops and the shops all get an invoice,’ says Karl. The goal of the kitchen is not to be profitable, but to be self-sustaining, he adds. ‘Every month we get a report to see if it’s profitable.’ It pays to invest in a good reporting system, Karl notes. ‘Spreadsheets are a necessity in our business and we have a fairly good reporting system. It shows you, for instance, if you sell 79 baked goods on average then you shouldn’t make 90 – that’s where your profit goes. Systems are boring. They’re not meant to be fun but they do offer good direction so you need to allocate the time to do the reports.’
Concentrate on High Margin Items ‘We make all our own muffins, scones, financiers and brownies. Baked goods we can manage but we outsource the croissants and the pain au chocolat. They require more input and so it is more cost-effective for us to source these from a trusted supplier.’ The benefit of in-house baked goods is that they offer the highest margins, explains Karl. ‘Lunch items, like soups,
Be Efficient ‘I love the geek thing and sitting, savouring the coffee, but 90% of people don’t have jobs that allow them the time to do that, and the same goes for food. I love it when I see a lot of people come into the shop and the queue moves efficiently. No one is ever going to complain that you are too efficient or too clean – the granny values don’t go out of fashion.’
Strive to Improve The customer never gets less intelligent, Karl argues. ‘They move on, they never look back. They’re always looking for more and better. Are we where we were five years ago? No. Are we where we will be in five years’ time? No. You must challenge yourself, challenge and promote your staff, and always strive to do better. Our ambition is to be a coffee shop focused on speciality – to be industry leaders and innovators and to be the best that we can be.’ ◆ KARL PURDY is Managing Director of Coffeeangel. coffeeangel.com @coffeeangel
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PANAGIOTIS KONSTANTINOPOULOUS
The Authorised SCAE Trainer, SCAE Education Committee member and Coffee Specialist with Coffee Island talks to ANDRA VLAICU.
How did you get into coffee? I began my career in engineering. I was running my own design and construction company when one day my brother, who had his own coffee company, asked me to forget about engineering and join his business. He explained that there is a lot of engineering and science in coffee and so I followed my heart and moved into the coffee industry. I’ve never regretted it. I’m working in the industry four years now and I love it every day. What’s the coffee market like in Greece? The coffee market in Greece is changing slowly. There are a lot of steps still to be taken but we have some amazing coffee professionals, and there is a good market here for us. Gradually Greece is learning how to prepare a better cup of coffee and, as a result, drink a better cup of coffee. We’re still babies but we will learn how to walk soon. Why did you choose to become a coffee educator? When I was in engineering I taught two subjects at university. I always liked education and training. I liked educating myself and passing this knowledge on to others. What attracted you to SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System? When I entered the coffee world, I tried to educate myself first and I looked at aIl the available courses. I found the old SCAE programme was good enough to get you started but I thought that some things could be better. What I didn’t realise was that SCAE had already started changing the course. I met David Locker (one of the Coffee Diploma System creators) who explained how SCAE planned to develop the programme. When the final Coffee Diploma System was launched, it was the most complete educational programme I had ever seen. There is science, there are practicals, there is advice on how to work, there is a little bit of everything and you can go as far as you like. As a member of the Education Committee now I can understand why the SCAE programme is that good, because the people who developed and deliver the courses are passionate about what they do. They educate themselves and they like the people that are being trained – it’s all about the baristas. What is speciality coffee to you? Speciality coffee for me is a coffee that tastes nice and is affordable. A speciality coffee is when someone can come to our shop and buy something that has the added value of the farmer, the roaster, the guy that brewed it in front of you… It is an experience which leads you to believe that what you drink is not just a black juice, that there is something more to it. Personally I don’t believe in speciality coffee grades, like 90plus or 90-minus or 95. This is a way for us to communicate but it means nothing to the consumer. For consumers, it’s all about
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having a nice coffee, a tasty coffee, a coffee that they can say ‘wow, I want to have that again’. What’s your favourite brew method? I love all brewing methods. The one I used the most is Aeropress, because I can bring it with me everywhere, the plastic doesn’t break. I know my brewing time and my contact time. I can change the taste profile very easily. But I think my favourite brewing method is the v60 because there are more parameters that I can play with. And your favourite origin? That changes from time to time. Right now, my favourite is Ethiopian naturals. I like them very much. Although I can understand that sometimes there are some fermented flavours there, I love them. People usually say there is no flavour or taste but for me that’s amazing. If you weren’t in coffee would you go back to engineering? For me engineering is what I am. My five years in university and three years doing masters course has made me the way I am. This has changed the way I think, work and live so I’m always an engineer. But I prefer working as a coffee person! Is it hard working with your brother? It is always hard working with family. With my brother we have a special relationship. We love each other very much so we can fight and then in a few minutes love each other again. At the end of the day, we both know we will do everything for each other and we believe in each other. But we fight more than usual! What advice would you give someone interested in coffee? Decide if you want to be a home barista or a professional one – you will probably learn the same things but from different perspectives. If you want to be a home barista, go for it. Take some of the SCAE courses, buy some cheap equipment, stay at home and practise and you will make some amazing coffees. If someone wants to work in the coffee industry the first thing I would recommend is go to an espresso bar, have a look at someone working there and see how many hours he stands still brewing coffees. If you think that this is for you then go ahead, everyone can learn about coffee. If you think that this is too hard for you then walk away.
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