May 29, 2014 WALKS IN HISTORY: La Capilla de la Caridad Text & photo by J.A. Pilares
edieval cities were usually built with three reference points in mind, which would articulate all the settlement’s future development. On one hand there were the defensive structures such as walls, gates, towers and castles; on the other, the religious buildings such as churches and convents. Rota’s streets fanned out from the castle in four directions, to the four gates of the town, along the roads to Chipiona, Sanlúcar, Jerez and to the harbour. Just outside of one of these gates, that of Sanlúcar, Rota’s particular jewel of the baroque was built; the Church of Saint John the Baptist, better known as “Capilla de la Caridad”. This temple was raised in the second half on the 17th Century to serve both as a place for worship as well as as a hospital. It was managed by the Brotherhood of the Holy Charity, organization that cared for the health of the poor roteños of the time, showed hospitality to travelers and cared for the burials of those that had no resources to pay for their own services. Such was the influence of the Brotherhood in Rota, that almost everyone “forgot” the “real” name of the temple, referring to it rather as the church of Charity. This “amnesia” extends to the square in front to the church. The square today is officially named “Plaza
de Andalucía”, although historically many other names have been used to refer to this place. Those known still today to historians are: “Puertas de Tierra” (Gates of Land), “CruzVerde”,“Alfonso XII”, “Alfonso XIII” (both Kings, father and son), “Fermín Galán” (with the II Republic the names of Kings were replaced with that of a general that led a failed republican coup d’ètat against the Monarchy) and “General Franco” during the Dictatorship. In 1982, with the return of democracy, the square was named “Andalucía”. Nevertheless, most roteños took little notice of this name changing and always referred to the plaza as “Caridad”. The Plaza de la Caridad was always in the centre of social life in Rota. Most festivities had their vortex in this square, markets were held here and all religious processions would parade through it to pay homage to the Capilla de la Caridad and the members of the Brotherhood. Even in the darkest hours of Rota’s history, the Plaza was the centre of everything. In February of 1936 the national elections in the Spanish Republic gave control of government to a coalition of socialists, communists and anarchists. Some of them believed the time had come for a social and political revolution and the 17th of April they went about their particular “revolution”. Rota’s churches were assaulted, many of the gold and silver pieces stolen and most of the religious works of art thrown into a pyre in Plaza de la Caridad. The police and Guardia Civil had no orders, and so they did not intervene until it was too late. Invaluable artifacts of Rota’s history were turned into ashes and lost forever. Eventually the revolt was put down with no loss of life.The 18th of July would come another attempted revolution, but this time it was harshly put down and its leaders executed by the supporters of the military coup that started the Spanish civil war. In the 1940’s the official policy of the Spanish State went from a fascist totalitarian dictatorship to a concept known as National-Catholicism. Being Spanish was the equivalent of
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being a good Catholic, hence bad Catholics were considered bad Spaniards. In this environment, undoing the actions of the revolutionaries against the Church became a must for the government and many professional artists were hired to recreate the old lost religious icons. Ramón Chaveli, one such artist, made many of these sculptures in Andalucía. In Rota his best known work is Our Lady of the Pain,“Nuestra Señora de los Dolores”, which presides the Capilla de la Caridad. The temple in itself is not much in the outside, just a simple sandstone façade, but the inside is overwhelming.The nave has a Latin-cross design and is 18 metres long by 10,40 metres at its widest.The church is painted mostly in white except for the formidable retable behind the altar.This is made in wood painted in gold, making it seem far richer than it actually is, and is adorned with images of saints.The top of the retable has an image of Our Lady of Charity breast-feeding a child, while holding a second one in her left arm.This awesome retable was made by Diego Roldán in the 17th century and has survived the British occupation of 1702, the Napoleonic of 1810-1812 and the revolts of 1936 with nothing but a few stones thrown at it. Being the only real problems it has had to endure those caused by time, humidity and termites. Five other religious images are housed in this church. Our Lady of the Pain and the Christ of Charity (cared for by its own brotherhood, la Hermandad de los Dolores,) and Our Lady of the Angst (Virgen de las Angustias), Our Father Jesus of the Holy Welfare (Jesús de la Salud) and Saint John the Baptist. The last three images cared for by the Brotherhood of the Welfare (Hermandad de la Salud). These images are taken in procession every Holy Week on Thursday (the first two) and on Wednesday (the rest). Both brotherhoods, as heirs that they consider themselves to the ancient Hernandad de la Caridad, still dedicate themselves to charitable work; with fund raisers, collecting food for the poor and bringing every summer young people from Belarus to aid them in the treatment of their cancers caused by the radiation of the Chernobyl disaster. Today la Capilla de la Caridad and its Plaza are still a neuralgic place in Rota’s daily life. The main way into the old city is through the gate that links Plaza de Andalucía and Plaza de España. It is usually the end and turnaround point of people’s leisure walks and it has several bars lining up its sidewalks. Bar la Plaza is a great place to sit with a beer and watch people pass. Next to it there is an ice cream deli, and across the street there’s also a tapas bar that specializes in Iberian pork products. However, my personal favourite is the small bar next to the city gates:“el Rinconcillo”.A classic in Rota, although under new management, el Rinconcillo has been serving its staple pork chop sandwishes, “filetitos” since 1920. A jar of beer and a “filetito” cost 2,50€, so go on, and next time you pass by the square do give it a try!
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B May 29, 2014 Magellan and Elcano circumnavigation
Juan Sebastián Elcano 20/09/1519 06/09/1522 Samar
March 16, 1521
Homonhon MactanMarch 17, 1521
April 27, 1521
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Cebu
September 20, 1519 September 6, 1522
ATLANTIC OCEAN
April 7, 1521
Canary Islands September 26, 1519
PACIFIC OCEAN
January 21, 1521
Passing by Magellan's death
December 29, 1521 Ambon
Island
January 25, 1522 Timor
November 29, 1519 December 13, 1519
Santa Lucia Bay (Rio de Janeiro Bay)
Río de Solis (Río de la Plata)
Elcano Stopover
November 8, 1521 Tidore
INDIAN OCEAN
January 12, 1520
Magellan
March 6, 1521
Brunei
San Pablo Island (Vostok Island or Flint Island) Sharks' Islands (Puka-Puka)
Ladrones Islands (Mariana Islands)
Palawan
Cape Verde Islands July 9, 1522
February 4, 1521
PACIFIC OCEAN
Limasawa
March 28, 1521
Cabo Deseado November 28, 1520
March 31, 1520Puerto
May 19, 1522
Cape of Good Hope San Julián
October 21, 1520 Cabo
All Saints Strait (Strait of Magellan)
Virgenes (Cape Virgenes)
September 26, 1519
Arrival or passing thru date
Cabo Deseado
Former named
(Mariana Islands) Modern name
Map above: Magellan Elcano Circumnavigation map by Sémhur, Wikipedia Far left's graphic: Spanisht all ship Elcano by Simon Koppes, Wikipedia Portrait: Ferdinand Magellan, Wikipedia Opposite page: detail from a map of Ortelius Magellan's by Ortelius Photo below: Juan Sebastian de Elcano at Pensacola byScott Hallford (USN employee)
May 29, 2014 C
Spanish Navy Ship: Juan Sebastián de Elcano by A.M. Ávila
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ast week, I read that a Spanish Navy ship, the Juan Sebastian de Elcano, was docked at a port in the New York City harbor. I had heard of the ship but I really didn´t know much about it. I looked it up on the internet and, generally, this is what I found: “The Juan Sebastián de Elcano is a training ship for the Royal Spanish Navy. She is a four-masted topsail, steel-hulled schooner. At 113 meters (370 feet) long, she is the third-largest Tall Ship in the world. Launched in 1927, she has sailed, throughout 87 years, more than 1.6 million nautical miles across all the seas of the world and has anchored in more than 70 countries. Although the Juan Sebastian de Elcano is considered a `floating embassy,` representing Spain in ports throughout the world, her chief purpose is to prepare future naval officers by getting them used to spending six months of every year at sea. The ship is now on its 85th training voyage.” In addition to this basic information, I do know that this ship has a very special connection to this area, not only because it was built in Cadiz but also because it is named after a significant person that is part of local, Spanish, and World history. On September 20th, in the year 1519, Ferdinand Magellan (“Fernando Magallanes” in Spanish) set sail, with several ships, from the neighboring city of Sanlucar de Barrameda. Although he was Portuguese he was acting on behalf of the Spanish crown and he was on a mission to find a new shipping route by circumnavigating the globe. Less than two years later, on September 6, 1522, only part of Magellan´s expedition returned to Sanlucar. Of his original five-ship fleet, carrying 237 men, only 18 sailors returned on the ship Nao Victoria. It was the only surviving vessel and was under the command of Captain Juan Sebastian Elcano who assumed command after Magellan’s death in the Philippines. The training schooner, described above, is named in honor of Captain Juan Sebastian Elcano. The ship’s coat of arms is the one granted by the Spanish Crown to the ship: A gold castle in a field of gold with cinnamon sticks, nutmeg and clove, crowned with the motto in Latin, around a globe, “Primus circumdedisti me,” or “The First Who Went Around Me.” I wanted to find out more about this training ship and its voyages so I continued on my internet search. I found a website, in Spanish, called “Los Amigos de Elcano” (The Friends of the Elcano). On the website, there were some very interesting information which I have generally translated as follows: “ WHO WE ARE – Training Ship JUAN SEBASTIÁN DE ELCANO (A-71) The crew of the Juan Sebastián de Elcano is comprised of 197 men and women. (24 officers, 22 chief petty officers, 39 1st class petty officers, 107 - 2nd & 3rd class petty officers and sailors, and 5 civilians). The crew has previously trained at various schools such as the Spanish Naval Academy, the Chief Petty Officers School, and other specialized training schools. Some have joined the crew after recently finishing their training at these schools,
and others hold the honor of having made several voyages with us. Together they form a great team which allows the ship to fulfill its mission both at sea and while in port. In addition to the regular crew, we must also add the Midshipmen (normally about 78) that accompany the ship on every training voyage.” “OUR DAILY ROUTINE – Training Ship JUAN SEBASTIÁN DE ELCANO (A-71) As every year, our training ship welcomes aboard a new class of Midshipmen so that they can continue their studies while they are out at sea. Given their busy daily schedules, they do their best to coordinate their observations of the night sky, their study of different subjects, and various lectures of a professional and cultural character, with their daily on-board activities which include many of the common duties required of the regular crew. All members of the crew participate in what is required in order to sail this Tall Ship, navigating from port to port reaching some of the most hidden corners of the world, and always doing so while proudly representing our country. The ship has two on-board, classrooms where the Midshipmen receive an average of 5 hours of instruction on such subjects as Celestial Navigation, Meteorology, Geography, Naval Operations, and English; all are subjects which are very important and very useful for a sailor, and which, undoubtedly, will be of great professional benefit for these future officers. Apart from their scholastic duties, the students share the duties of the crew, including the standing of daily watches. This close interaction with the rest of the crew allows the Midshipmen to better understand the difficult tasks of command and leadership, skills that they will have to consistently exercise and improve throughout their professional careers. It is important to emphasize the critical mission of this ship in the exercise of its duties as a “floating ambassador” for Spain. Not only does it welcome aboard the various authorities of the countries which it visits, but it also maintains a strict schedule of activities while in port which includes the participation of the entire crew and the Midshipmen in coordination with the different organizations and institutions that have a specific interest in its visits. In this manner, the Midshipmen expand their understanding of different cultures which, in turn, provides them with the knowledge, confidence, and ability to understand similar situations which they may likely encounter in the future, as members of Spanish Navy.” As part of it yearly voyages, the Juan Sebastian de Elcano usually makes a port call to the City of Cadiz, the home of its birth. Since public tours are often part of their agenda, I highly recommend that you schedule a visit to this truly amazing and spectacular ambassador of Spain and of the Royal Spanish Navy.
May 29, 2014
The view from CView Ajedrez Beach Club Glamour on the “Costa de la Luz” is what comes to mind when trying to describe Ajedrez Beach Club. It is beautiful, welcoming and has fabulous food at reasonable prices. I and three others finally went there this past weekend to try some of the new chef’s specialties. Some of the things we tried were: shrimp Carpaccio – tangy with some crunchy accents; summer
Photos are: Left Pad Thai and right Summer Rolls
ROTA
Flamenco Tertulia “Viejo Agujetas” 22:00, Friday, 30 May Singing Jesús Castilla, dance group “Pasión Flamenca”, guitar Ismael Heredia c/Argüelles, 2 Tour the bay by sail boat This two hour trip leaves at midday and sunset Price is 15€ per person with a minimum of 4 persons and a maximum of 5 Information and reservations, Tourism Office, tel 956 846345 organized by Diverta Sail Botanical Garden “Celestino Mutis” from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 14:00 and again from 16:30 to 18:30 Guided tours of the Luna castle Saturdays and Sundays at 13:00 and 19:00, prior reservation needed (call 956 84 63 45 or email turismo@aytorota.es) Flea Market Saturdays 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. in the Central Market. To get a table,
rolls – delightfully refreshing; Tuna Tartar – excellent with a delicious sauce and Pad Thai – definitely one of the best I have eaten. All of the dishes were beautifully presented as you can see from the photos on this page. It’s a feast for the eyes as well as for the palate. As the new Chef, Kittirat says he is always cooking with love and it shows. In addition to Asian specialties, Ajedrez serves Mediterranean cuisine so you have a good variety of choices.The garden is luscious although there is indoor seating as well. The upstairs bar is a great place to enjoy a coffee or a drink while taking in the viewl Lunch is served from 12:30 and dinner is served from 19:00 hrs daily. There is free car parking for guests. Reservations are recommended; call 956 235071. If you really like good food and appreciate a beautiful setting, Ajedrez is a must for you to try. Molly Malone Friday May 30th is Molly´s International burger night! The following are the times for Molly’s Friday night shuttles, there are two trips from base and two trips back. The first bus leaves the Rota Gate at 18:30, the Puerto Gate at 18:45 and arrives at Molly’s at 19:00.
you must sign up in the bar in the Central Market. Flea Market Sundays 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Calle Sargento Céspedes, Chorillo Beach
PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA
Jazz Fusion Concert PATAX in Sala Milwaukee 23:30, Saturday, 31 May Sala Milwaukee - Avda. Bajamar, 10 Price is 6€ Festival ARROCK PROGRESIVO 2014 in Sala Milwaukee 13:30, Sunday, 1 June Playing: Baraka (Japón)- Erytheia - Glazz - Cró! with Paella and a record flea market, music starts at 15:30 Price is 10€ Live Music at Shamrock's starting at 23:00h Saturday the 31st. with The Jaguars International Burger Night at Molly's Friday May 30th Jam Session Night Every Saturday at Molly's Bring your instrument and
The first return to base is at 21:00; this bus arrives at the Rota Gate for pick up or drop off at 21:30 and the Puerto Gate at 21:45. It arrives at Molly’s a 22:00. The return bus to base leaves Molly’s at 00:30. Mena Car Mena Car is not a new operation; it has been in business for many years and has an excellent reputation. The facility is ultra modern and clean. They do mechanical repairs and paint jobs at very competitive prices. Mena Car is located in the industrial area, Polígono Industrial Las Salinas de Levante, Doctor Pariente, 4; phones 956 547 568/956 547 865. Shamrock's Bar & Eatery Live music with Jaguars de la Bahía starting at 11:00p.m. Saturday the 31st. Great plans for Saturday night!z Anything you want us to pass along? Let us hear from you about your favorite places or coming events. We do like hearing from you! Send an e-mail to Karen@ coastline.e.telefonica.net or give a call to 607-564132. Support your paper by supporting the advertisers.
join in! Guided Tour, Path of the Senses This 4 and ½ hour tour explores the origins of the Sherry wines of El Puerto and it´s progress from the vine to the barrel. Oenologists meet you, after a short bus trip, at a vineyard in the countryside and explain how the vineyard operates, later at the bodega a wine tasting accompanied by tapas and an explanation of the elaboration process, this last taking place in the famous Caballero bodega. Run by Bahiamedia Comunicación y Eventos - Reservations: 649 882 288 - 956 853 960, www.rutadelossentidos.com - eventos@ bahiamedia.net
JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA
Flea Market on Sundays at Alameda Vieja s/n from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Archaeological Museum Plaza del Mercado,W s/n. C.P. 11.408 956 14 95 60 museoarq@aytojerez.es