May 15, 2014 WALKS IN HISTORY: Casas que trascalan Story by J.A. Pilares / Photos by Zenner
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Awards in the patio contests
Prim 22 entrance
Prim 22 patio
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oday we are going to Rota’s downtown, but we are not visiting any of the well-known monuments such as the castle or a church; neither are we going to enjoy local cuisine nor wines.We are simply going to visit some houses:“las casas que trascalan”. The term “trascalar” does not even exist in Spanish; it is a purely Andalusian word that describes houses that are built around a long winding path, sometimes linking up two different streets through as many gates. This type of house is almost only found in Rota; in other Andalusian towns one can find “patios” or “cármenes”… but “casas que trascalan” only here. Consider a long winding alley that links two larger streets.Then consider that a large family builds its house on either side of it, using the alley as the house’s corridor. Consider that small squares exist in the alley where a well or a fig tree can be found.Then consider that over generations the same family keeps expanding around the alley, building new rooms on several levels as needed.Then, finally, consider that the general public “forgets” that there was ever an alley, and that a gate with an iron fence is built at the entrance to the alley.A common bathroom would be built down water from the well; later modern bathrooms would take its place with running water. With time, the alley –now a corridor- is beautified with hanging flower pots, glazed pottery, paintings and furniture.The inhabitants would actually compete with other houses to have then as well-decorated as possible and with the most variety of flowers blooming in the spring.An actual contest used to be held (until only two years ago) for the best patio, and the awards are proudly hung up on the entrances to these houses for all to see.That is how “las casas que trascalan” have come to exist over the years. To prepare this article I visited four of these houses. Of course I didn’t call in advance, I just went there and rang the bell; and so can you! Most of these houses can be found in the area between the old city walls (Plaza España) and the line that goes from Plaza la Costilla, to Plaza de San Roque to Plaza de Pio XII; but the biggest concentration of them is around Calle Mina. Calle Mina has several houses that link up with Calle Charco, Prim and Blas Infante. Sadly not all are still inhabited, but a handful of them are MUST visits for anyone living in Rota. Calle Prim, 22, is a narrow house with a strong-looking sandstone façade inhabited by Carmen. Carmen led me in, and asked me to forgive the mess as they were repainting the whitewashed walls for the summer. Still, I saw no mess to forgive but a shady and green corridor. A bit further up the street is a real surprise at Calle Prim 8.There Luisa cares for an amazing cloister; full of plants and shade.Then a small opening in the back of the patio leads away to a long corridor full flower pots, with the odd well in the alley’s “square” and stairs leading to the upper levels. The big surprise comes when one finds himself back in the street, but in Calle Mina, 19, not Prim.Take a left, quickly, and walk over to Mina 25 and another long house opens up. This one is not as decorated, hardly has any plants and seems overwhelmingly white-washed and full of sunlight. I didn’t encounter anyone there… but I did climb the stairs to the rooftop for an intimate view of the old town. However, my personal favourite of those houses I ran into was in Argüelles, 3.There Juan (Juanmita as everybody knows him) a young roteño full of life and goodwill, welcomed me into the house that he and his life-long friend Jesús (a.k.a. Barcala) have restored from decay into an indie “casa que trascala” and a haven for Carnaval life.The house had been run down for years after most of its inhabitants moved out to more modern housing, so Juanmita and Bacala decided first to make their house a home, and then to turn it into a museum of carnaval. The floor has received golden stars (like in Hollywood) with the names of the most important people of Rota’s Carnaval, such as Guti, Mercedes de los Grifos… an idea that has given the alley the name “Bule-bar de los famosos del Carnaval roteño”. Decoration goes from the absurd (a bird cage with toy sharks in it) to the artistic (a mural of the old harbour). The extra space left behind by the old tenants has given the remaining ones room to expand their own housing, and to put away other rooms as places where Carnaval troupes can rehearse. Argüelles, 3, is the demonstration that a typical “casa que trascala” does not need
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to be kept in the ”old ways” to it still be a beautiful and intimate place. It just needs people that make it a home. As I said earlier, these are just but a few examples of Rota’s popular housing, many more can be found. Save a morning to visit them! It will not take more than a couple of hours and you will be amazed by these maze-like houses covered with plants and stories. Just ring the bell if you see a house that awakes your curiosity and ask to be let in… or smile and show your camera if you don’t speak any Spanish. I would maybe offer some tip to my hosts as I leave… but remember to make it clear that the money is not for the service, but just for a new plant or pot. Or even better, visit them later with a new flower pot and a smile just for them.
Corridor and cloister in Prim 8
Stairs in Prim 8
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