May 8, 2014 WALKS IN HISTORY: The Thunnus thynnus and the almadrabas Story by José Antonio de Pilares / Graphic by Grolltech, Wikipedia
“¿Por qué aún no se ha hecho un monumento al que juntó el atún con la cebolla?” (“Why hasn’t a monument already been raised to whoever put together tunas and onions?”) -José Guerrero Roldán “el Yuyu”, satiric poet and journalist.
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he Thunnus thynnus is a magnificent animal; better known as the Bluefin Tuna in English, and Atún Rojo in Spanish. These fish can grow to weigh almost a thousand pounds, they can travel underwater at about 40 miles per hour and can dive a kilometer in search of prey. And most importantly to us, they make a great meal, having become part of the cuisine and culture of the Gulf of Cádiz since before Roman times. There are cave paintings in the cliffs near to Tarifa where Stone Age humans depicted themselves hunting down the tuna fish in the surf… and collaborating with orcas to do so. Orcas can still be seen today on occasions hunting the tuna at that beach, pushing them out into the sand. The old silver coins made in Phoenician Cádiz, or Gadir, used two bluefins to identify their mint more than 2000 years ago. Julius Caesar’s campaign against Pompey’s supporters in Hispania could have come to a standstill for lack of supplies had it not been for the great schools of tuna that arrived to Gadir just in time to feed his hungry legions. In the Middle Ages –under Muslim rule- the almadrabas (such as those of Rota, Chipiona or Zahara de los Atunes) were built to aid with the hunting. The very word “almadraba” is Arabic and means in “fighting/killing place”. I’m not saying “fishing” but rather “hunting” because “fishing a tuna” can take hours and except for sport fishermen no one does it. Tunas are hunted down with nets and underwater stone walls, organized as a maze, until they are driven into a central pool called “copo”. There the fishermen raise the nets as much as they can out of the water with the fish inside them and
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then use pike poles to drag the fish out of the water. All done by hand, all done in a manner that could be recognized by a 2000 year old fisherman. After the Muslims were expelled from the coast of Cádiz, circa 1250 BE, the control and exploitation of the almadrabas they had left behind was handed over to the Duke of Medina-Sidonia; the “other” king of Andalucía as many referred to him because of his possessions and power. The Dukedom made a fortune hunting, salting, smoking and exporting the tuna for the next 500 years. It was said in the 1600’s in Seville that whenever people went south to Sanlúcar de Barrameda (on the mouth of the Guadalquivir and the “capital” of the Dukedom) they sailed “to get tuna, and to see the Duke”. Rota’s almadraba was just one of a string of establishments that ranged from Isla Cristina (near to Portugal) to the Straits of Gibraltar. After Medina-Sidonia sold the almadrabas in the early 19th century they became private exploitations, some with better luck, some with worse. Rota’s was not very lucky. The factory near the almadraba, where the tuna was carved (“el ronqueo” in Spanish), salted (turned into “mojama”, or “jamón de atún” as some say) or canned was lost along with all the warehouses in the 1920’s. It was an economic disaster and the company could not rebuild it; ever since the grounds have been used as a concentration camp, a resettlement for displaced farmers… and today it is the Hotel Playa de la Luz. The rocks remain. Every high tide they hide under the water only to reappear six hours later, a haven for maritime wildlife where only a few licensed fishermen can work.
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However, all is not lost as a quick trip to Barbate, Conil de la Frontera or Zahara de los Atunes will demonstrate. The traditional fishing still is carried out every summer as the tuna migrate to the Mediterranean from the north Atlantic; only the large specimens are chosen while the younger ones are handpicked and allowed to escape the almadraba. As an added plus, this method of capture does not stress the animals as much as other forms, meaning that at the time of death their muscles remain fresh and tender; something that helps with the ronqueo, the processing and the cooking. Even Japanese traders come to buy tuna here for top-class sushi, paying thousands of euros for some fish. So where can you enjoy this? Well, the almadrabas’ nets are being lowered into the sea as I type, and Barbate will soon be hosting its VII Semana Gastronómica. Barbate is only about 70 kilometers south of Rota, and its Culinary Week is dedicated to all things tuna. It starts the 21st of May; you can find out more online in larutadelatun.com. For people accustomed to eating tuna sorely out of a can and in a sandwich or a salad, seeing the fish in a market or a steak of it on a plate can be intimidating. But fear not, instead be ready to try eating this great fish made in any of the local recipes: “atún encebollado”, “atún con tomate”, “mojama”, or if feeling experimental you can also try modern recipes such as: “hagashi”, “tacos de atún con salmorejo”… I even hear there is a tuna-filled chocolate cake. I assure you, the next time you open a can of tuna after having eaten your way through a real tuna steak, when you look at the can you will think “Really? Is this it?”.
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May 8, 2014
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What is “Feria?”
y the time you read this article, you have either experienced or missed the wonder that was “Feria,” recently celebrated in the town of Rota. Those of you who attended the Rota Feria, undoubtedly had a great time. But, those of you that did not, now wonder what you have missed. So, what is “Feria” anyway? The word “Feria” simply means “Fair.” In Andalucia, it is tradition to celebrate Feria after Easter as part of a Spring season welcome. Normally, Easter falls earlier in the year but this year it was celebrated late which has pushed back many of the Feria celebration dates. Feria celebrations, in each of the neighboring towns, are usually held on dates that do not conflict with each other in order to attract as many visitors as possible. So, it´s not too late. We are right in the middle of Feria season! This year, some of the first to hold their ferias were Vejer de la Frontera and Rota. Not every town holds a Feria, though, and it is actually a tradition that goes back many centuries. Some claim that its beginnings go back to the Spring livestock fairs of the Middle Ages. In
By A.M. Avila fact, documentation exists confirming that a livestock fair, and its accompanying festivities, were celebrated in the town of Mairena de Alcor, in the province of Sevilla, Spain, as far back as the year 1441. One of the most popular and well-known Ferias is the one that is held in Seville. Known as the Feria de Abril (the Fair of April), ironically, this year it will be held in late May. Another well-known feria is the one held in Jerez de la Frontera. Known as the Feria del Caballo (the Fair of the Horse), this year it will be held in mid-May. I recently made contact with an encyclopedia of Feria knowledge – Ms. Carolina Albrizzio-Lopez. She is a wellliked, well-respected, on-base Flamenco dancer and teacher whose Facebook page can be found under the name: Dance Sevillanas. I asked her if she could give me some advice that I could pass on to those persons who are interested in attending a Feria. She gladly gave me some tips and wisely asked me to glance at her Facebook page. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then the pictures on her webpage clearly demonstrated the fun that many of her students are having by attending the various Ferias in the immediate area. Here are Ten of Carolina´s tips that will come in handy for any Feria attendee: Since dancing at Feria is a must, then it is natural 1. that food and hydration are also a must. Although food can be expensive, if it is purchased collectively and shared it won´t break the bank. Often, groups of friends create a pool of money, called a “vaquita” (small cow) for spending on these collective purchases, which can be replenished when the fund starts to dwindle. Of course, there has to be someone who is in charge of administrating the fund so that the others don´t have to worry about it. Hydration is important. So, drink a lot water. 2. Although alcohol is plentiful, there are also other options available. A popular alternative is to drink a reduced-alcohol drink called “Rebujito” which is iced sherry wine, mixed with a lemon-flavored soda. “Tinto de verano” is a similar and reduced-alcohol mixture of red wine and lemon-flavored soda, and is a popular alternative.
5. Explore the Feria grounds. Part of the experience is tasting the different food that is offered and visiting the different ambiances created by each caseta. 6. Children can enjoy Feria as well. There is always a carnival-type area that has rides and games specifically for the entertainment of the children. 7. Public transportation (taxis or buses) is a smart idea since parking is always a challenge, and since drinking and driving is never a good idea. Of course, designated drivers are also an option. 8. Although comfortable shoes are also a good idea given the amount of walking around that you will do, Carolina says “Flip-flops, sneakers, or crocks” are Verboten! She recommends “espadrilles” as a reasonable alternative (for the ladies, of course). 9.
Don´t forget your camera.
10. For those of you who suffer from allergies: prepare for Spring-time pollen and for dusty Feria grounds. Unlike the Feria in Seville, the casetas in the Ferias of all of the neighboring towns do not require membership to enter. They are all open to the public. The following nearby towns will celebrate their respective Ferias on the following dates: Jerez de la Frontera (11 May to 18 May); El Puerto de Santa Maria (21 May to 26 May); Barbate (22 May to 25 May); Sanlucar de Barrameda (27 May to 1 June); MedinaSedonia (28 May to 1 June); Puerto Real (4 June to 9 June); Chiclana (11 June – 15 June). Enjoy the Feria, don´t forget to have fun, and drink responsibly. I´ll see you there!
3. Become familiar with your surroundings. Many ferias have maps of the grounds and the names and location of the “casetas” or tents. That way if friends ask you to meet at a specific caseta, you can locate it easily. Also, identify the location of the nearest restrooms because many of the casetas will not have one.
Vicky Miller
4. Get a poster of the Feria as a nice momento of your experience. Many of the sponsoring towns will provide them free at their information booths. The only inconvenience is that you will have to carry it around with you.
Vicky Miller
May 8, 2014 The View from CView
Happy Mother’s Day!
Ibis hotels Are you thinking about getting out and exploring a bit of Andalucía now that the weather is nice and it is not yet high tourist season? Perhaps over Memorial Day Weekend? It is a great time to travel in this part of Spain. If you are one who doesn’t want to spend a fortune on lodging, but wants quality and cleanliness, think Ibis Hotels . You’ll find them in Jerez, Sevilla, Málaga and Granada and those Ibis Hotels have more to offer than a good price. For example, enjoy free wifi, restaurants, snacks 24 hours and breakfasts starting at 4 a.m. From 4 a.m. to 6:30 a.m. It’s a continental breakfast which consists of hot beverages, juices and pastries. From 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. there is a grand buffet that on weekends and Spanish holidays is available until noon. Another thing that sets Ibis hotels apart from others is their 15 minute contract. Their commitment is to make sure their clients are satisfied so if a problem comes up, the hotel team has 15 minutes to solve the problem or they invite you. This applies to the rooms,
24 hour snacks, breakfast and the bar. Jerez ibis hotel is located 2 minutes from the city center, with easy access to the airport and near a golf course. In Granada there are two ibis hotels; both are located near the bypass highway, close to the Parque de las Ciencias. In Málaga there are three hotels; two are next to the historical centre of town and one is near the airport. Sevilla also has two ibis hotels; both situated between the airport and the train station. Get out and explore Andalucía and get to know ibis hotels. www.ibis.com Hospital Veterinario La Arboleda The Importance of the Prevention of Vectors - By María del Mar Anaya With the arrival of good weather, protecting our pets from mosquito bites and tics can avoid many problems. Mosquitoes transmit two serious and frequent parasite illnesses: Leishmaniosis and Filariosis or Heart Worm. Mosquito season starts with warm weather, normally
ROTA
En Ruta Association 07:30, Saturday, 10 May Visit to El Simancon- El Reloj, Sierra de Grazalema We go to Sierra del Endrinal in Grazalema, mountains to be visited include El Simancón (1569 m) and El Reloj (1535 m). Price. 12.00 € members and 17.00 € non members. Flamenco & Dinner at Bar La Feria, Calle Mina, 42, every Friday 19:30 – 21:30. 30€ per person. For reservations, call 664 026525.
PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA
Classic Scene - Natalia Kuchaeva in Theatre Pedro Muñoz Seca 21:00, Friday, 9 May Plaza del Polvorista, 4 World Mig ratory Bird Day in
Parque de los Torunos10:00, Saturday, 10 MayParque Metropolitano de Los Toruños - Avda. del Mar, 7 Dedicated to reminding people about the conservation of migratory birds, helping to develope local populations and the tourism of bird watching world wide. Conference and child activities are free Jam Session Night Every Saturday at Molly's Bring your instrument and join in! V Popular Run Los Toruños Sunday 11th. www.fedatletismoandaluz.co
ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA
Latin Lounge DJ Night with Latin Tapas in Al Lago Restaurant & Hotel Saturday the 10th of May. See info@al-lago.es or call Mona for more info and details.
in April or May and continues through September or October. All winter mosquitoes stay in larvae form. In the warmer parts of Spain, specifically in the province of Cádiz, mosquitoes can be found all year. Canine Heart Worm is a disease caused by parasites that can cause inflammation and obstruction of blood vessels, weakness, cough and an intolerance to exercise in our pets. Leishmaniosis is a disease that can cause hair loos, fever, weight loss, skin ulcers, etc.Tics transmit diseases such as Erlichiosis, Borreliosis, Babesiosis, etc. The best way to protect our pets is through preventive treatments. This is possible nowadays thanks to vaccinations that prevent the development of these diseases and the use of antiparasitics that keep mosquitoes, tics and fleas away from our pets. Good prevention controls these diseases.Visit your veterinarian and make sure your pet’s protection is up to date. Molly Malone Starting on May 16th, Molly Malone’s Irish Pub will be running a free Friday night shuttle.The buses will run to the Rota and Puerto Base Gates. No more worries about having a drink and driving. Relax and enjoy your dinner in Molly’s friendly atmosphere. Restaurante Shanghai Restaurante Shanghai is closed until the 30th of May for their annual vacation. Anything you want us to pass along? Let us hear from you about your favorite places or coming events. We do like hearing from you! Send an e-mail to Karen@coastline.e.telefonica.net or give a call to 607-564132. Support your paper by supporting the advertisers.