Putni časopis CROATIA zima 2019 / Inflight Magazine CROATIA Winter 2019

Zima _ Winter 2019/20

Putni Ä?asopis _ Inflight magazine

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Hrvatsko predsjedanje Vijećem Europske unije 2020.

Croatia’s 2020 Presidency of the Council of the European Union

Hrvatska od 1. siječnja do 30. lipnja 2020. godine preuzima predsjedanje Vijećem Europske unije, a Grad Rijeka bit će Europska prijestolnica kulture. U sedmoj godini članstva i uoči 30. godišnjice hrvatske samostalnosti, prvi put imamo čast biti na čelu Europske unije i raditi za dobrobit svih njezinih građana.

Sve je više izazova na koje nijedna država ne može odgovoriti samostalno, a u takvim je okolnostima potrebno dodatno osnažiti europsko zajedništvo.

Hrvatsko predsjedanje dolazi u prijelomnu trenutku za Uniju, na početku novog institucionalnog razdoblja Unije. Hrvatska u 2020. ima važnu ulogu − biti kormilarom europskog projekta u izgradnji, što naglašava i slogan našega predsjedanja Snažna Europa u svijetu punom izazova. Prioriteti predsjedanja u skladu su s ključnim strateškim dokumentima Unije i prioritetima triju predsjedništava Vijeća Europske unije (Trio) − Rumunjske, Finske i Hrvatske.

Hrvatskoj su tijekom predsjedanja važna četiri krovna prioriteta koji odgovaraju potrebama europskih građana.

Prvo, želimo graditi Europu koja se razvija na održiv i uravnotežen način radi smanjivanja razlika u razvijenosti i izgradnje zadovoljnijeg i vitalnijeg društva. Jedan od specifičnih prioriteta u tom kontekstu jest utvrđivanje rješenja za demografske izazove kao problema koji ne pogađa samo Hrvatsku, već je svojstven i polovici država članica Europske unije.

Drugo, ostvarivanje Europe koja povezuje građane i gospodarstva razvojem prometne, digitalne i energetske infrastrukture.

Treći prioritet je izgradnja Europe koja štiti građane uz jačanje

On 1st January 2020 (ending on 30th June 2020), Croatia is taking over the Presidency of the Council of the European Union, and the City of Rijeka will be the 2020 European Capital of Culture. In the seventh year of Croatia’s membership of the EU and on the eve of the 30th anniversary of Croatia’s independence, we’ve been given the honour for the first time to be at the forefront of the European Union and to work for the benefit of all its citizens.

There is an increasing number of challenges that no country can meet on its own, and in such circumstances it is necessary to additionally strengthen the European community. Croatia’s Presidency comes at a watershed moment for the EU, at the beginning of a new institutional cycle for the EU. In 2020, Croatia has an important role to play − to be at the helm of the European project under development, which the slogan of our Presidency, A Strong Europe in a World of Challenges, highlights. The priorities of Croatia’s Presidency are in line with the key strategic documents of the EU and the priorities of the three consecutive Presidencies of the Council of the European Union or the Trio − Romania, Finland and Croatia.

For the Presidency, Croatia has set itself four important umbrella priorities that meet the needs of the citizens of Europe. First, we want to build a Europe that develops in a sustainable and balanced way with a view to reducing disparities between the levels of development, and building a more satisfied and vibrant society.

One of the specific priorities in this context is finding solutions to demographic challenges, which is an issue that affects not only Croatia, but is also characteristic of half of the EU member states.

Second, we want to create a Europe that connects citizens and eco-

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vladavine prava, sveobuhvatnog pristupa migracijama, sigurnosti i zaštitu vanjskih granica. Četvrti prioritet je Europa koja je utjecajna i koja ima predvodničku ulogu u svojem susjedstvu i svijetu, osobito u globalnim pitanjima poput klimatskih promjena, globalnog upravljanja, zaštite ljudskih prava i jačanja multilateralnog trgovinskog okvira. Najvažnija će zadaća tijekom predsjedanja biti završetak pregovora o zajedničkom europskom proračunu za razdoblje 2021. − 2027.

Predsjedanje je ujedno i prilika za predstavljanje hrvatske povijesti, kulturne baštine, umjetnosti i tradicije, ali i raznolike gastronomske, turističke i kulturne ponude. Važnu ulogu u povezivanju naših kontinentalnih i obalnih gradova te Hrvatske s više od dvadeset država svijeta imat će i zrakoplovi hrvatske kompanije Croatia Airlines.

Gostoprimstvo i topli prijem svih gostiju jedna je od glavnih odlika naših ljudi te svima koji dolaze u Hrvatsku želim iskrenu dobrodošlicu.

nomies by developing transport, digital and energy infrastructure.

The third priority is building a Europe that protects its citizens while strengthening the rule of law, a comprehensive approach to migrations, security and the protection of the EU’s external borders. The fourth priority is an influential Europe that plays a leading role in its neighbourhood and the world, particularly in regard to global issues, such as climate change, global governance, the protection of human rights, and strengthening the multilateral trading system. The most important task during Croatia’s Presidency will be the completion of negotiations on a joint EU budget for the 2021−2027 period.

Croatia’s Presidency is also an opportunity to present Croatia’s history, cultural heritage, art and tradition, and its rich gastronomic, tourist and cultural offer. Croatia Airlines will also play an important role in connecting our continental and coastal cities, and Croatia with more than twenty countries of the world. One of the main qualities of our people is their hospitality and their warm welcome of all guests, and so I too am extending a hearty welcome to everyone coming to Croatia.

Andrej Plenković predsjednik Vlade Republike Hrvatske Prime Minister of the Republic of Croatia

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A. Grubelić

Poštovani putnici!

Dear passengers,

Na kraju smo još jedne kalendarske godine, koja je za nas bila jubilarna. Iskreno vam zahvaljujem na povjerenju i raduje me što zajedno stvaramo uspomene već punih trideset godina.

Zahvaljujući stručnosti i brižnosti naših zaposlenika te naših poslovnih partnera, u protekla tri desetljeća ostvarili smo mnoge vrijedne rezultate. Osobito me raduje što nas prepoznajete po sigurnosti letenja, profesionalnom osoblju te kvaliteti usluge.

Pred nama je novo dinamično razdoblje. U prvoj polovici 2020. godine Hrvatska predsjeda Vijećem Europske unije, a Croatia Airlines imat će važnu ulogu u povezivanju naše zemlje s Europom i svijetom. Veselimo se toj odgovornoj ulozi i učinit ćemo sve kako bismo ispunili vaša očekivanja. I zimski broj našega časopisa posvetili smo upravo poveznicama Europe i Hrvatske. Predstavljamo Zagreb, grad u kojem će neko vrijeme stanovati Europa, a u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt svakako vrijedi pogledati izložbu Visovac − duhovnost i kultura na Biloj Stini, o otočiću u koji je od davnina utkan duh europske kulture. Također, o stoljetnim kulturnim vezama Austrije i Hrvatske saznat ćete više iz teksta o Bečkoj državnoj operi, koja slavi 150. rođendan, a na njezinim daskama gostovali su mnogi naši ugledni umjetnici. Vodimo vas i u Ilok, grad poznat po vinskim podrumima, ali i po tome što engleski dvor godinama iz njih naručuje posebno čuvani arhivski iločki traminac.

Dakako, to su samo neki od sadržaja koji će, vjerujem, pridonijeti tome da se u našem zrakoplovu osjećate ugodno i opušteno. Veseleći se razdoblju koje dolazi, vama i vašim najmilijima od srca čestitam Božić i novu 2020. godinu, uz želje za uspjeh na svakom području.

We’ve reached the end of another calendar year, for us an anniversary one. I thank you for your loyalty, and am happy that we’ve been making memories together for thirty years. Thanks to the professionalism, and care and attention of our employees and our business partners, we’ve achieved many impressive results over the past three decades. I’m particularly pleased that you recognise us for our flight safety, professional staff and quality of service.

We’ve a dynamic period ahead of us. In the first half of 2020, Croatia’s presiding over the Council of the European Union, and Croatia Airlines will play an important role in connecting our country with Europe and the world. We look forward to this responsible role and will do our best to fulfil your expectations.

We’ve devoted the winter issue of our magazine to the ties between Europe and Croatia. We’re introducing Zagreb, a city that Europe will live in for a while. At the Museum of Arts and Crafts, we recommend viewing the Visovac − Spirituality and Culture on Bila Stina exhibition, an island that the spirit of European culture has long since been woven into. You’ll also find out more about the centuries-old cultural ties between Austria and Croatia in a text about the Vienna State Opera celebrating its 150th anniversary, whose stage was performed on by many distinguished Croatian artists. We’re also taking you to Ilok, a town widely known for its wine cellars, but also for the fact that the UK’s Royal Court has been ordering Ilok’s archive Traminac for years.

Of course, these are just some of the texts that will, I believe, help you feel comfortable and relaxed on your flight. Looking forward to the coming period and wishing you success in all areas of your life, I wish both you and your families a heartfelt merry Christmas and a happy New Year.

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

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SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

14 Razgovor ZLATKO MATEŠA: GDJE JE SRCA, BIT ĆE I USPJEHA Među onima koji su uvelike zaslužni za to da danas imamo suvremenu nacionalnu aviokompaniju jest i Zlatko Mateša, vrsni poznavatelj prilika u zrakoplovstvu.

Interview ZLATKO MATEŠA: WHERE THERE’S HEART, THERE’S SUCCESS One of those who’re much credited with Croatia having a modern national airline today, one who knows all the ins and outs of aviation is Zlatko Mateša.

Zima/Winter 2019/20 www.croatiaairlines.com

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy

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Naše odredište EUROPA STANUJE U ZAGREBU Odat ćemo vam deset tajni zbog kojih je Zagreb neodoljiv i Zagrepčanima i svima koji su ga zavoljeli i uvijek mu se vraćaju.

Kontinentalna Hrvatska ILOK, GRAD KRALJEVSKOG TRAMINCA Ilok je grad nadaleko poznatog iločkog traminca i vrhunske gastronomije. Imate puno razloga da posjetite ovaj grad.

Our destination EUROPE LIVES IN ZAGREB We’ll let you in on ten secrets that make Zagreb irresistible to both its residents and all those who’ve fallen in love with it and who keep on returning.

Continental Croatia ILOK, THE TOWN OF THE ROYAL TRAMINAC Ilok is a town of the widely known Traminac wine and excellent food. You have plenty of reasons to visit this town.

52 Priroda RIS, DRAGOCJENI SIMBOL NAŠE PRIRODNE BAŠTINE Ris je najveća, ali i jedna od najugroženijih mačaka u Europi, a u Hrvatskoj rijetka i strogo zaštićena vrsta.

Nature THE LYNX, A PRECIOUS SYMBOL OF CROATIA’S NATURAL HERITAGE The lynx is Europe’s largest and one of the most endangered wild cats. In Croatia, it’s a rare and strictly protected species.

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Heritage VISOVAC, SPIRITUALITY AND CULTURE ON BILA STINA At this exhibition, one of the most beautiful Croatian vedutas comes to life at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts.

Zagreb _ J. Duval

Baština VISOVAC, DUHOVNOST I KULTURA NA BILOJ STINI Na ovoj izložbi jedna od najljepših hrvatskih veduta zaživjela je pod krovom zagrebačkog Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt.

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel.: +385-1-616-00-66 e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

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URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Moda SNAŽNA I OTMJENA Les Émaux jedan je od novijih brendova na hrvatskoj modnoj sceni primijećen zbog dobrih formi, skladnog dizajna, ali i odličnih vizuala za kampanje.

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Jasmin Bajić

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Fashion STRONG AND ELEGANT Les Émaux is a newer brand on the Croatian fashion scene applauded for its good cuts, balanced design and brilliant campaign visuals.

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić, Anamarija Jurinjak, Zlata Prpić

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Miranda Herceg

Prijelom/Layout

82 Kultura BEČKA DRŽAVNA OPERA I HRVATI Beč ove godine obilježava 150. godišnjicu Državne opere, u kojoj su gostovali i vrhunski hrvatski umjetnici.

Miranda Herceg

Culture THE VIENNA STATE OPERA AND CROATIANS The Vienna State Opera’s marking its 150th anniversary this year, where Croatia’s biggest names in opera have also performed.

Lektor/Proofreader

Direktor Komercijalnih poslova/ Commercial Division Director Slaven Žabo

Nevena Erak Camaj Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Ana Janković Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert

96 Meridijani MJANMAR − SKRIVENA AZIJA Osim ledenjaka i snježnih vrhova kojih u jugoistočnoj Aziji ima samo ondje, po čemu je još Mjanmar toliko poseban?

Meridians MYANMAR − HIDDEN ASIA Besides being the only place in Southeast Asia with glaciers and snowy peaks, what is it that makes Myanmar so special?

tel.: +385-1-616-00-17 e-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel.: +385-1-616-01-02 Priprema/Prepress AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb Tisak/Press AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb

ISSN 1330-6278

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CHECKPOINT BLUETAG Bluetag je novi brend proizvoda iz riznice obrta Kolar.

Beskompromisna kvaliteta, jedinstven dizajn i inovativnost proizvoda glavne su odlike Bluetaga. U procesu izrade, koji do savršenstva dovodi i najsitnije detalje, korišteni su samo najkvalitetniji materijali. Osebujnost dizajna idealno će upotpuniti vašu svakodnevnicu.

Bluetag is a new brand of products from the repertoire of the Kolar sole proprietorship. Uncompromising quality, unique design and product innovation are Bluetag’s main features. Only the highest quality materials are used in the manufacturing process, bringing to perfection even the smallest details. Bluetag’s distinctive design is the perfect complement to your everyday life. www.bluetagdesign.com

Vina BARUN Mala ali izvrsna butique vinarija obitelji Barundić iz Krašića nedaleko od Zagreba u vinogorju Plešivica proizvodi posebne pjenušce Barun od rijetkih sorti manzoni i muškat žuti te odličan pinot crni Marquis. Pjenušce proizvode najcjenjenijom, klasičnom metodom vrenja u boci, a crni pinot odležavaju u hrastovim bačvama. Vina Barundić i širok izbor najvažnijih hrvatskih vina te odabrana vina svijeta možete pronaći u vinotekama Vivat fina vina u Zagrebu u Martićevoj 12 i Ulici F. Folnegovića 1b. www.vivat-finavina.hr

BARUN wines The Barundić family’s small yet excellent boutique winery from Krašić near Zagreb in the Plešivica winegrowing region has been producing Barun, a special sparkling wine made from two rare varieties of grape (Manzoni and Yellow Muscat), and Marquis, an excellent Pinot Noir. They produce their sparkling wine by using the most esteemed, classic method of bottle-fermentation, and their Pinot Noir is aged in oak barrels. Barundić wines, a wide selection of the best Croatian wines and a selection of wines from around the world are available at the Vivat Fina Vina wine shops in Zagreb at No.12 Martićeva Street and No.1b F. Folnegovića Street. www.vivat-finavina.hr

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GARDEROBA concept store Garderoba je konceptualna trgovina specijalizirana za skandinavske modne brendove i modne dodatke, koja u svojoj ponudi ima i hrvatski brend nakita Mammii i kolekciju pletene odjeće hrvatske dizajnerice Nataše Mihaljčišin. Garderoba se nalazi u Zagrebu u Martićevoj ulici 17 te u Rovinju na šetnici Grand Park Hotela, Lungomare Plaza.

Specialising in Scandinavian fashion design and accessories, the Garderoba Concept Store also offers Mammii, a Croatian brand of jewellery, and a collection of knitwear by Croatian designer Nataša Mihaljčišin. Garderoba’s Zagreb store is located at No.17 Martićeva Street, and its Rovinj store at the Lungomare Plaza of the Grand Park Hotel. garderobastore.hr

LP design fashion store Modni brend LP design hrvatske dizajnerice Petre Lasić dobio je ekskluzivni prodajno-izlagački prostor. Odražava ga jedinstven, suvremen i moderan stil usredotočen na preciznost, kvalitetu i izbor tkanine. LP design fashion store svoja je vrata otvorio u centru Zagreba, u Petrinjskoj 31.

LP design by Croatian designer Petra Lasić moved into an exclusive retail and display store. LP design reflects a unique, contemporary and modern style focusing on precision, quality and choice of fabric. LP design fashion store opened its doors in the centre of Zagreb, at No. 31 Petrinjska Street. lpdesign-fashion.com

SLAGALICA ∑ glagoljične puzzle Glagolitic letter puzzles Gledajući glagoljične puzzle iz jednog kuta, slovo se čita na latiničnom pismu, zakretanjem i pogledom iz drugog kuta to se isto slovo čita na starohrvatskom glagoljičnom pismu, a slabovidna ili slijepa osoba opipom ga čita na Brailleovu pismu.

From one angle, these Glagolitic letter puzzles are in the Latin alphabet. But if you turn them and look at them from another angle, the same letter is read in the old Croatian Glagolitic script, while the visually impaired or the blind read it in Braille. www.3designsanell.com

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Table Dragon Keramik Chair Wanda

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SPLIT, Trg Hrvatske brat. zajednice 4 tel. +385 21 323 680

ZAGREB, Ulica grada Vukovara 284 tel. +385 1 366 44 90

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RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

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Naša je kompanija tijekom cijele 2019. godine na različite načine sa svojim putnicima, poslovnim partnerima i zaposlenicima obilježavala tridesetu obljetnicu osnutka. Među onima koji su uvelike zaslužni za to da danas imamo suvremenu nacionalnu aviokompaniju jest i Zlatko Mateša, vrsni poznavatelj prilika u zrakoplovstvu, koji i sam kao pilot uživa u letenju malim zrakoplovima.

Throughout 2019, our company has been celebrating its 30th anniversary with our passengers, business partners and employees in many different ways. One of those who’re much credited with Croatia having a modern national airline today, one who knows all the ins and outs of aviation, and who − being a pilot himself − enjoys flying small aircraft is Zlatko Mateša.

ZLATKO MATEŠA GDJE JE SRCA, BIT ĆE I USPJEHA WHERE THERE’S HEART, THERE’S SUCCESS

Piše/By _ Ksenija Žlof Fotografija/Photo _ Saša Ćetković

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ožda se 30 godina u životu neke aviokompanije i ne čini tako mnogo, ali za Croatia Airlines, hrvatsku nacionalnu aviokompaniju koja je rasla i stvarala se usporedno s nastajanjem hrvatske države, svaka je okrugla obljetnica velika jer je to uvijek prigoda da se prisjetimo početaka koji su po mnogočemu bili posebni, puni entuzijazma i prožeti vrlo emotivnim trenucima.

Među onima koji su uvelike zaslužni za to da danas imamo suvremenu nacionalnu aviokompaniju jest i današnji predsjednik Nadzornog odbora Croatia Airlinesa Zlatko Mateša, vrsni poznavatelj prilika u zrakoplovstvu, koji i sam kao pilot uživa u letenju malim zrakoplovima kad god mu to brojne obaveze dopuste. Naime, osim obveza u Croatia Airlinesu, Zlatko Mateša i dugogodišnji je predsjednik Hrvatskoga olimpijskog odbora (HOO)

Trideseta obljetnica osnutka tvrtke bila je i povod za razgovor sa Zlatkom Matešom, kojega smo na početku zamolili da se nakratko vrati u vrijeme kad je u kolovozu u 1989. godine u registar Trgovačkog suda u Zagrebu upisana nova kompanija za prijevoz putnika, prtljage, robe i pošte pod imenom Zagal (Zagreb Airlines), iz kojega je izrastao današnji Croatia Airlines, te da nam dočara te trenutke. − Bio je to velik zanos za nas koji smo u tome sudjelovali, a sve su to bili istaknuti poslovni ljudi i kompanije poput INE, Astre, Coninga, Montmontaže, Tankerkomerca... S današnjeg motrišta teško je to razumjeti, ali tada svi smo bili silno uzbuđeni, svi smo radili s velikim srcem jer je stvaranje hrvatske aviokompanije za nas bio ne samo velik poslovni nego i životni izazov. U tom se projektu stvorila velika

Užitak pilotiranja The pleasure of piloting

sinergija. Radili smo a da nitko nije pitao za radno vrijeme. Tako smo osnovali Zagal, prvo dioničko društvo u Hrvatskoj poslije 1945. godine.

Pri obilježavanju obljetnica u sjećanjima neizbježno ožive neponovljivi trenuci početaka, ali osim samog osnutka, koji su događaji u životu Croatia Airlinesa po Vašem mišljenju bili osobito značajni? − U svakom slučaju kad smo prvi put letjeli u obavljanju putničkog prometa i od Adria Airwaysa unajmili zrakoplov za naš prvi let iz Zagreba u Split. Zatim nabavka Boeinga 737−200 i novih ATR−a. Tako je nastala jezgra ozbiljne srednjoeuropske kompanije. Potom je uslijedila i kupnja Airbusa.

U vrijeme obnove flote zrakoplovima tipa Airbus bili ste hrvatski premijer.

te jedan od osnivača Zagrebačke škole za ekonomiju i menadžment (ZŠEM), respektabilne i po kvaliteti međunarodno prepoznate i priznate visokoobrazovne ustanove čiji je prodekan i predavač.

U svojoj bogatoj profesionalnoj karijeri obavljao je niz odgovornih dužnosti, pri čemu svakako treba spomenuti da je u osobito dinamičnom i zahtjevnom razdoblju za mladu hrvatsku državu od 1995. do 2000. godine bio i predsjednik Vlade, upravo u vrijeme kad je hrvatska nacionalna aviokompanija u flotu uvodila nove zrakoplove tipa Airbus, čime je zasigurno osigurala status suvremene i konkurentne europske aviokompanije s kvalitetnom flotom i uslugom.

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− Kao predsjednik Vlade podržavao sam kupnju Airbusa, to je tada za nas bilo vrlo važno. Tad sam, sjećam se, prvi put u životu dobio pismo koje su potpisala dva velika državnika, ondašnji njemački kancelar Helmut Kohl i predsjednik Francuske Jacques Chirac.

Bilo je riječi o tome kako je europski interes da europske kompanije lete europskim zrakoplovima.

Naši Airbusi uspješno su od tada do danas odradili tisuće i tisuće letova, uz iznimno visok stupanj sigurnosti bez ijednoga ozbiljnog incidenta. No dolazi vrijeme za obnovu flote. Kako sada vidite Croatia Airlines? − Kao dobru i kvalitetnu srednjoeuropsku kompaniju čiji je strateški cilj ponajprije kvaliteta i sigurnost putnika. Kao što je vlasnik rekao, Vlada Republike Hrvatske, strateški je fokus za iduće razdoblje obnova flote i širenje mreže, s čime se već počelo uvođenjem letova, primjerice za Dublin, a tako ćemo i nastaviti. Sada su u našem fokusu Sofija, Podgorica... i to ostaje kratkoročni strateški cilj. Naša kompanija oduvijek je imala i funkciju prepoznatljivosti, ima izvrsno vizualno rješenje zrakoplova i loga, što je iznimno važno za Hrvatsku kao turističku zemlju i za promicanje Hrvatske u svijetu.

Poveznica s hrvatskim identitetom jako je naglašena i očita pa svaki put kad naš zrakoplov pristane u nekoj zračnoj luci, on je ujedno promidžbena poruka Hrvatske kao turističke destinacije.

Kad je riječ o promidžbi, na tome moramo biti itekako zahvalni i našim sportašima koji također snažno pridonose prepoznatljivosti Hrvatske u svijetu... − Naši su sportaši daleko najbolji promicatelji Hrvatske, i to ne samo prema mojemu mišljenju nego i prema relevantnim studijama i pokazateljima u kojima strani turisti govore o prepoznatljivosti Hrvatske.

Koga najviše prepoznaju? − Naravno nogometaše Luku Modrića, Ivana Rakitića, Marija Mandžukića, ali isto tako tenisače, primjerice Marina Čilića, našu najbolju atletičarku Sandru Perković... Uistinu imamo čitav niz blistavih sportašica i sportaša koji su prepoznati u svijetu. Ako je riječ o japanskim turistima, oni vide Hrvatsku kad vide Cro Copa Mirka Filipovića. Doživio sam to kad sam bio u Japanu.

Uvjereni smo da smo vrlo sportska nacija jer nedvojbeno imamo strahovito mnogo izvrsnih sportaša za malu zemlju kakva je Hrvatska. Je li to samo naš osjećaj ili je objektivno tako? − To su objektivni pokazatelji. Ako primjerice razmotrite posljednje Olimpijske igre u Rio de Janeiru, s osvojenih 10 olimpijskih medalja, a od toga pet zlatnih, mi smo 17. zemlja po broju odličja od ukupno 208 zemalja. To je objektivni uspjeh.

Prednost je sporta upravo u tome što je sve mjerljivo, nema prostora za neka slobodna tumačenja. Sport je egzaktan i zato ga ljudi vole.

Bili smo neopisivo ujedinjeni kad smo dočekivali našu nogometnu reprezentaciju, naše Vatrene, koji su se sa Svjetskog nogometnog prvenstva u Rusiji vratili kao doprvaci svijeta.

Takvog dočeka kakav je bio doček Vatrenih nije bilo... Bi li se taj entuzijazam i ta ujedinjenost nacije mogla preliti na druga područja? − Da, to je bio najveći doček, ali Hrvati su slično reagirali i 1998. godine, kad je naša nogometna reprezentacija osvojila broncu na svjetskom prvenstvu u Francuskoj, a također i kad je Janica Kostelić donosila svoje skijaške medalje ili kad su to radili rukometaši i vaterpolisti, tenisači i mnogi drugi... Svi su ti dočeci po uzbuđenju, nakupljenim emocijama i ljubavi koju su ljudi iskazali prema našim sportašima bili vrlo slični. Možda su se ponešto razlikovali u broju okupljenih na dočeku, ali ne i u emocijama. Oni su dokaz koliko ljudi cijene napore naših sportaša, njihovo vrijeme i treninge da bi došli do vrhunskih rezultata. I, naravno, razumiju kako je to ogromna promocija za zemlju. No imamo mi šanse u mnogim područjima. Imamo svjetski relevantne kompanije u informatičkom sektoru, a u zadnjem istraživanju o rastu kompanija u srednjoj i istočnoj Europi spomenuto je pet hrvatskih. Svi znaju za uspjeh Mate Rimca u automobilskoj industriji, ali imamo i drugih izvrsnih kompanija i pojedinaca. Imamo također iznimno vrijedne znanstvenike koji su pojam u svijetu.

Spremamo li se punom parom za Olimpijske igre u Tokiju koje su pred nama? − Za Tokio smo spremni. Dok sada razgovaramo, u olimpijskom programu već imamo 107 sportašica i sportaša, što je opet za zemlju veličine Hrvatske ogroman

broj. Kad prođu sve kvalifikacije, vjerujemo da će ih biti oko sto, ako ne i više.

Spremno je i sve vezano uz promociju Hrvatske i tzv. hrvatsku kuću u Tokiju.

Hrvatska kuća i ovaj će put biti središte promocije hrvatskog gospodarstva i turizma, što smo riješili zahvaljujući hrvatskoj Vladi i Ministarstvu vanjskih i europskih poslova. Na prethodnim Olimpijskim igrama u Rio de Janeiru hrvatski se turizam promicao u sličnim okolnostima. Bilo je nazočno više od sto brazilskih turoperatora, i to je nedvojbeno imalo utjecaja na kasniji evidentni statistički porast turista iz Brazila.

Dugo ste na mjestu predsjednika Hrvatskoga olimpijskog odbora i to radite volonterski. Nesumnjivo, i iz Tokija će nam stići nove medalje. Prema Vašem iskustvu, čemu se možemo nadati, koliko je medalja realno očekivati?

obnavlja se svakih pet godina. Mi smo se u lipnju reakreditirali, što znači da zadovoljavamo visoke standarde Američke akreditacijske agencije, koji su isti za nas kao i za američka sveučilišta. Tu nema nikakve razlike. Taj je podatak relevantan, ali nije odveć poznat.

Uložili ste mnogo i u vlastito školovanje. Doktorirali ste u Pekingu na tamošnjem sportskom sveučilištu.

Zašto baš ondje? − Beijing Sport University najveće je takvo sveučilište u Aziji. Bio mi je izazov doktorirati baš ondje na području sporta.

Bilo je zanimljivo. Obrana doktorske disertacije odvijala se pred 500 ljudi, dvorana je bila puna, a sve je popratila i televizija. Što je potrebno za uspjeh u bilo kojem području? Što je Vas osobno motiviralo?

− Teško je nagađati koliko, ali sve između osvojenoga u Londonu i Riju bila bi potvrda uspješnosti našeg sporta. Dakle, između šest i 10 medalja. Da, u HOO-u radim volonterski. Suosnivač sam, prodekan i predavač strategije i strateškog menadžmenta na Zagrebačkoj školi ekonomije i menadžmenta, i to mi je glavna aktivnost.

ZŠEM se etablirao kao uspješna međunarodno priznata visokoobrazovna ustanova, a zanimljivo je da se ondje školuje i sve više stranih studenata. − Imamo paralelni program na hrvatskome i engleskom jeziku. Na engleskom se trenutno školuje 135 studenata, no taj se broj iz godine u godinu povećava.

Imamo američku AACSB akreditaciju i to studentima omogućuje da kroz razmjenu ili studij borave u Hrvatskoj a da nemaju nikakve troškove studija. Ta akreditacija

Pogled iz kokpita na obalu, uvale, otoke A view from the cockpit of the coast, bays, islands

− Treba puno predanosti... Osobno, meni to mora biti i izazov, mora biti zanimljivo, moram to voljeti... I onda nije nikakav problem. I temeljem toga važno je obrazovanje. Cijeli se život obrazujem i dandanas ne prestajem učiti. Mnogi misle da završetkom formalnog obrazovanja više nikad ne moraju uzeti knjigu u ruke. To je velika greška. Danas se stvari događaju takvom dinamikom da ako pola godine ne pratite područje kojim se bavite, postajete neznalica.

Sigurno jako puno putujete... − Putujem iz raznih razloga. Radio sam na dva velika projekta u europskom olimpijskom pokretu, izravno sam ih vodio, a to su Europske igre u Bakuu 2015. i u

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

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Minsku 2019. godine. Bili su to iznimno zahtjevni projekti. Također mnogo putujem i zbog obveza na fakultetu, ali i zbog privatnih afiniteta... I dobro poznajem svjetske aviokompanije i glavne zračne luke.

Imate li najdražu destinaciju? − Najdraža mi je Mongolija. Strašno volim tu zemlju i često idem onamo. Čak ste i počasni konzul Mongolije za Hrvatsku. Čime Vas je očarala ta daleka zemlja? − Prostranstvom u dijelu izvan gradova, tradicijom, iznimno dobro sačuvanom kulturom koju treba razumjeti da biste je mogli zavoljeti. Da, daleka je, ali obilježila je povijest. U vrijeme Džingis-kana bila je po veličini druga zemlja u svijetu. Jedino je Commonwealth, Britansko Carstvo, po površini bilo veće od Džingis−kanove Mongolije. A ima i puno poveznica s putovima Marca Pola... Što biste savjetovali turistima da vide u Hrvatskoj? − Svi znaju za more, obalu, otoke, o tome više gotovo da i ne treba govoriti. Po tome je Hrvatska prepoznata kao jedno od najljepših odredišta u svijetu. No ja strašno volim unutrašnjost Istre i Baranju. To su dva dijela Hrvatske u koja najčešće idem, a treći je Lika. Te hrvatske bisere turisti tek otkrivaju.

Kako vidite Hrvatsku u budućnosti? − Kao potencijalno prosperitetnu i bogatu zemlju Europske unije, ali sve bitne Zrakoplovna karta Zlatka Mateše s prvoga povijesnog leta Croatia Airlinesa Zlatko Mateša’s airline ticket from Croatia Airlines’ first historic flight

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sastavnice ovog društva, svi mi zajedno, moramo naći točku nacionalnog konsenzusa oko bitnih razvojnih pitanja. To je, uz demografiju, najbitniji dio uvjetno rečeno ostvarivanja projekta prosperitetne Hrvatske.

Koja je danas najveća vrijednost Croatia Airlinesa? − Nije demagogija i stvarno to mislim, najveća su vrijednost Croatia Airlinesa ljudi. Sve možete kupiti, unajmiti avione, motore... ali ključna su vrijednost kompanije piloti, mehaničari, kabinsko osoblje...

Ljudi čine kompaniju i dok je njih, bit će i kompanije. Njihov ogroman doprinos stabilnosti tvrtke jest ove godine potpisani kolektivni ugovor, čime su omogućili da kompanija uđe u vrijeme promišljanja o sljedećem razvojnom koraku.

Kad ste osnivali kompaniju, rekli ste da se radilo sa srcem. Opet se nameće poveznica sa sportom, ali i svime što radimo. Srce se ne smije izgubiti jer gdje ima srca, bit će i uspjeha. − Što tiče srca i sporta, srce je u sportu conditio sine qua non. Bez takvog se pristupa ne može uspjeti. Čini mi se da ste velik zaljubljenik u letenje. Svojedobno ste čak bili i prvak Hrvatske u preciznom slijetanju ultralakih letjelica. Zrakoplovnu licenciju imate više od 20 godina. Međutim, najprije ste osnovali Zagal, a onda poletjeli.

Kakav je osjećaj letjeti? − Fantastičan. To je moja najdraža aktivnost u slobodno vrijeme.

Koliko imate vremena za letenje? − Ne previše jer sam više od sto dana godišnje na putu. A onda letim jako puno, ali u velikim avionima. A kao pilot letim

malim avionima − ultralight Viper, Cessna 172, Cessna 182, Cessna 206.

Jeste li nadletjeli cijelu Hrvatsku? − Jesam, i najdraža ruta mi je od Vrsara do Dubrovnika preko Kornata. Tako čovjek zapravo postane svjestan sve te ljepote naše obale, uvala, otoka.

30 years in the life of an airline may not seem long, but for Croatia Airlines, Croatia’s flag carrier that’s been growing and that was formed in parallel with the formation of the Croatian state, every round number anniversary is a big one because such anniversaries are a great opportunity to bring back memories of the company’s beginnings that were in many respects special, full of enthusiasm and imbued with very emotional moments. One of those who’re to be much credited with Croatia having a modern national airline today is the President of the Supervisory Board of Croatia Airlines, Zlatko Mateša, who knows all the ins and outs of aviation, and who − being a pilot himself − enjoys flying small aircraft whenever his many duties and responsibilities allow. More specifically, besides his responsibilities at Croatia Airlines, Zlatko Mateša is also the long-time President of the Croatian Olympic Committee and one of the founders of the Zagreb School of Economics and Management (ZSEM), a widely respected, internationally recognised and high quality higher education institution, where he’s a Vice Dean and lecturer. During his rich professional career, he held a number of offices, one of which is to be singled out. Namely, he was Prime Minister during a particularly dynamic and challenging period for the young Croatian state − that is, from 1995 to 2000 − at a time when the Croatian national airline was introducing Airbuses into its fleet, which ensured that it be considered a modern and competitive European airline with a quality fleet and service.

The 30th anniversary of the company was reason enough to interview Zlatko Mateša.

We first asked him to briefly go back to August 1989, a time when a new company for the air transport of passengers, luggage, goods and mail was registered in the Company Register at the Commercial Court in Zagreb called Zagal (Zagreb Airlines), which today’s Croatia Airlines grew out of, and to describe those moments to us. − We were all rather ecstatic about it, all of us who took part in it, and these were all

prominent business people and companies such as INA, Astra, Coning, Montmontaža, Tankerkomerc...

From today’s perspective, this is difficult to understand, but back then, we were all very excited, we worked towards it with all our hearts and souls, because setting up a Croatian airline was not only a big business challenge, but also a life challenge.

The project created great synergy. We all put in long hours without anyone inquiring about office hours. So we founded Zagal, the first joint stock company in Croatia after WWII. Anniversaries inevitably bring back memories of unrepeatable moments that happened at the very beginning.

But, besides the founding itself of the company, what other events in the life of Croatia Airlines were, in your opinion, particularly important? − When, having rented an aircraft from Adria Airways, we operated our first-ever flight flying passengers from Zagreb to Split. Then the acquisition of Boeing 737200 and new ATR aircraft. This is how the core of a serious Central European company was formed. And then the purchase of Airbuses.

When Croatia Airlines’ fleet was renewed with Airbuses, you were Prime Minister of the Republic of Croatia. − As Prime Minister, I supported the purchase of Airbuses, this was very important to us at the time. It was then that, I remember, I received, for the first time in my life, a letter signed by two great statesmen, the then German Chancellor, Helmut Kohl, and the then President of France, Jacques Chirac. The letter communicated the idea that European companies operating European aircraft is in Europe’s interest.

Our Airbuses have successfully operated thousands and thousands of flights ever since, with an extremely high level of safety and without a single serious incident. But, it’s time to renew the fleet. How do you see Croatia Airlines today? − As a good and high-quality Central European company whose strategic goals are, first and foremost, quality and passenger safety. In the words of the company’s owner, the Government of the Republic of Croatia, renewing the fleet and expanding the destination network is our strategic focus in the upcoming period. We’ve already started expanding our network by intro-

ducing flights, for instance, to Dublin, and we’ll continue to do so. The cities we’re now focusing on are Sofia and Podgorica, this is our short-term strategic goal. One of the functions that our company has always had is recognisability, the visual identity of our aircraft and logo is brilliant, which is extremely important for Croatia as a tourist country and for the promotion of Croatia in the world. The link of the design solution to Croatian identity is very pronounced and obvious, and so every time our aircraft lands at an airport, it’s also a promotional message of Croatia as a tourist destination.

When it comes to the promotion of Croatia, we must be very grateful to our sportsmen for contributing strongly to Croatia’s recognisability in the world... − Our sportsmen are by far the best promoters of Croatia, and this not only in my opinion, but also according to relevant studies and indicators where foreign tourists are asked to speak about the recognisability of Croatia.

Whom do they recognise most? − Our football players, of course, Luka Modrić, Ivan Rakitić, Mario Mandžukić, but

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Dubrovnik Card

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Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

also our tennis players, such as Marin Čilić, our best athlete Sandra Perković... We truly do have a whole range of brilliant sportswomen and sportsmen who’re recognised in the world. As far as Japanese tourists are concerned, they see Croatia when they see Cro Cop, Croatia’s multiple world champion in mixed martial arts, Mirko Filipović. I saw this with my own eyes when I was in Japan.

We’re convinced that we’re a great sporting nation because, for a small country such as Croatia, we unquestionably have a tremendously large number of top athletes. Is this just our feeling or is this objectively so? − Objective indicators say that we are.

If, for example, we take a look at the last Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro, with 10 Olympic medals won, 5 of which were gold, Croatia was ranked 17th in the world from amongst 208 competing countries.

This is considered to be objective success.

The advantage of sport is that everything in it is measurable, there’s no room for anything left open to interpretation. All

sports are exact, and that’s why people love sports.

We were indescribably united when welcoming our national football team, our Vatreni, from the World Cup in Russia as the silver medallists. There’s never been a welcome such as the welcome of Croatia’s Vatreni. Could that enthusiasm and unity of the people spill over into other areas? − Yes, that was the biggest welcome, but Croatians reacted similarly in 1998 when our national football team won the bronze medal at the World Cup in France, and also when Janica Kostelić brought home her skiing medals or when Croatia’s handball, water polo, tennis players and many other sportsmen did. All these welcomes were very similar in excitement, accumulated emotion and love for our athletes expressed by people. They may have differed somewhat in the number of people that gathered at the welcomes, but not in the emotions expressed. They’re proof of how much people value our athletes’ efforts, their time and training invested in

achieving top results. And, of course, they understand that this is huge promotion for the country. But we’ve got the chance to succeed in many fields. We have internationally relevant companies in the IT sector, and the latest research on the growth of companies in Central and Eastern Europe mentions five Croatian companies. Everyone knows about the success of Mate Rimac in the automotive industry, and we have other great companies and individuals. We also have very brilliant scientists who’re recognised in the world as pioneers in their respective fields.

Are we getting ready full steam ahead for the Tokyo Olympics? − We’re ready for Tokyo. We already have 107 athletes in the Olympic programme as we speak, and this is a huge number for a country the size of Croatia. When all the qualifications are completed, we believe there’ll be about one hundred athletes, if not more. Everything’s also ready for the promotion of Croatia and the so-called Croatian House in Tokyo. The Croatian House will again be the headquarters of

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

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all promotional activities related to Croatia’s economy and tourism, which we’ve solved thanks to the Croatian Government and the Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs. At the last Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro, Croatian tourism was promoted in similar conditions. More than one hundred Brazilian tour operators came, and this has undoubtedly had an impact on the evident subsequent statistical increase in tourists arriving to Croatia from Brazil.

You’ve been the long-time President of the Croatian Olympic Committee, and this as a volunteer. Our athletes will bring new Olympic medals home from Tokyo, there’s no question about it. In your experience, what can we hope for, how many medals can we realistically expect to win? − It’s difficult to guess how many, but any number of medals between the number won in London and Rio would be proof of the success of our sports. In other words, anything between 6 and 10 medals. Yes, I’m a volunteer at the Croatian Olympic Committee. I’m a cofounder of the Zagreb School of Economics and Management, a Vice Dean and lecturer of strategy and strategic management there, that’s my main engagement.

ZSEM has established itself as a successful, internationally recognised higher education institution, and it’s interesting that an increasing number of foreign students study at ZSEM. − We have a programme in both Croatian and English. At present, 135 students study in English, but this number has been increasing year after year. We’re an AACSB accredited school, which means that students can stay and study in Croatia through exchange programmes without needing to pay additional tuition fees.

AACSB accreditation is renewed every five years. Our programme was re-accredited in June, which means that we meet the high standards of the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business (AACSB), which are the same for us as for US universities. There’s no difference whatsoever.

This information is very relevant, but not that well known.

You’ve also invested a lot in your own education. You received your doctorate from the Beijing Sport University. Why Beijing? − The Beijing Sport University is the biggest sport university in Asia. It was a challenge

24 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

for me to get my PhD there in the field of sports. It was very interesting. I defended my doctoral dissertation in front of 500 people, the hall was packed, and there were even television reporters reporting on it.

What does it take to succeed in any field? What motivated you personally? − It takes a lot of dedication... Personally, it’s got to be a challenge for me, it’s got to be interesting, I must love it... And then there’re no problems. Education is also important. I’ve been learning and studying my entire life, and I do so even today.

Many think that they’ll never have to pick up a book once they complete their formal education. That’s a big mistake. The pace at which things develop today is such that, if you don’t follow your field of interest for as little as half a year, you know nothing.

You must be travelling a lot. − I travel for a variety of reasons. I worked on two major projects in the European Olympic movement, I ran them, the European Games in Baku in 2015 and in Minsk in 2019. Both were extremely challenging projects. I also travel a lot because of my college commitments, but also because of my affinities... And I’m well acquainted with the world’s leading airlines and major airports.

Do you have a favourite destination? − My favourite’s Mongolia. I love that country a lot and I often travel there.

You’re the Honorary Consul of Mongolia to Croatia. What was it that captivated you in that distant land? − The vastness of space outside of urban areas, its traditions, its extremely well-preserved culture that you must first understand to be able to love. Yes, it’s a far-off country, but it made history. At the time of Genghis Khan, it was the second largest country in the world. Only the Commonwealth, the British Empire, was larger in size than Genghis Khan’s Mongolia. And it’s got many links to Marco Polo’s travels.

What would you recommend tourists to visit and experience in Croatia? − Everyone knows about our sea, the coast, the islands, there’s almost no need to talk about these things anymore. Thanks to them, Croatia is considered one of the most beautiful destinations in the world.

However, I really love the inland of Istria and Baranja. These are two regions of Croatia that I travel to most often, and the third is Lika. These Croatian gems have only recently been discovered by tourists.

How do you see Croatia in the future? − As a potentially prosperous and rich country of the European Union. But, for that to happen, all the key stakeholders of this society, all of us together, must arrive at a national consensus on important development issues. This is, in addition to demographics, the most important part of what could conditionally be called completing the project of prosperous Croatia.

What’s the biggest value of Croatia Airlines today? − People are the biggest value or asset of Croatia Airlines. This isn’t demagogy and I really do mean it. You can buy everything, lease aircraft and engines, but the pilots, mechanics, cabin crew... people are the key value of the company. People make the company, and as long as they’re around, the company will be around. Their huge contribution to the stability of the company is the collective labour agreement signed this year, which enabled the company to start thinking about its next stage of development.

When setting up Croatia Airlines, you said you worked with all your heart and soul. This is a direct link to sports and everything we do. We mustn’t lose heart, because where there’s heart, there’s success. − As far as the heart and sports are concerned, the heart is the sine qua non of sports. Without this approach, there is no success.

It seems you’re a big fan of flying.

You were once the champion of Croatia in precision landing of ultra-light aircraft. You’ve had your pilot’s licence for more than 20 years. However, you first founded Zagal and only then did you start flying. What does it feel like to fly? − Fantastic! It’s my favourite leisure activity.

How much time do you have for flying? − Not too much because I spend over a hundred days a year travelling. I fly a lot then, but aboard big aircraft. As a pilot, I fly small planes − the ultra-light Viper, Cessna 172, Cessna 182 and Cessna 206.

Have you ever flown over the whole of Croatia? − Yes, I have. My favourite route is from Vrsar to Dubrovnik via Kornati. This is how you become aware of all the beauty of our coast, bays and islands.

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NAŠE ODREDIŠTE OUR DESTINATION

EUROPA STANUJE U ZAGREBU EUROPE LIVES IN ZAGREB 26 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

Zagreb je oduvijek bio pravi europski grad koji njegovi stanovnici obožavaju, a stranci mu se rado vraćaju. Od 1. siječnja 2020.

Hrvatska predsjeda Vijećem Europske unije pa će u glavnom hrvatskom gradu biti više Europe nego ikada. Zagreb nikad nije tajio koliko drži do europskih vrijednosti, ali odat ćemo vam deset tajni zbog kojih je on svima tako neodoljiv.

Adored by its residents, Zagreb’s always been a true European city that foreigners return to gladly. On 1st January 2020, Croatia’s taking over the Presidency of the Council of the European Union, so there’ll be more Europe in the Croatian capital than ever. Zagreb’s made no secret of its respect for European values, but we’ll let you in on ten secrets that make it so irresistible to all.

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u svoj grad tipičnoga srednjoeuropskog ugođaja iznenadili što je Zagreb te godine pobijedio hrvatsku obalu, 1800 kilometara prelijepog istočnog Jadrana, i postao odredište, a ne samo usputna stanica do mora. Novinarka Forbesa u svojem je tekstu ustvrdila da je Zagreb mjesto koje treba posjetiti upravo zato što u njemu niste okruženi tisućama turista. To je doista jedna od njegovih prednosti.

Odat ćemo vam deset tajni zbog kojih je Zagreb neodoljiv i Zagrepčanima i strancima, diplomatima, biznismenima, turistima... svima koji su ga zavoljeli i uvijek mu se vraćaju.

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agrepčani iznimno vole svoj grad, tepaju mu u brojnim popularnim pjesmama, priznaju da nije ni Beč ni Pariz, ali mu svejedno zaljubljeno poručuju da se nema skrivat’ kaj... I danas pjevaju Moj Zagreb, tak imam te rad, pjesmu nastalu tridesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, u doba najvećega građanskog zamaha i rasta hrvatske metropole. Zašto zapravo Zagrepčani svojem gradu pjevaju za nikaj na svetu ja menjal te ne bi, moj Zagreb tak imam te rad... I dalje... za mene najlepši si grad?

Vodič Lonely Planet 2017. godine izabrao je Zagreb kao europsko odredište koje vrijedi posjetiti. Čak su se i oni zaljubljeni

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01 Tunelom Grič, skloništem iz Drugoga svjetskog rata sa šest ulaza u središtu grada, dominiraju likovi iz baleta Orašar, baš kao i čitavim zagrebačkim Adventom 2019.

Much like all the locations of the 2020 Zagreb Advent, the Grič Tunnel − a WWII shelter with six entrances in the city centre − is also dominated by characters from The Nutcracker ballet

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02 Advent je stvoren za djecu: starinski vrtuljak na Strossmayerovu trgu The Advent is children-friendly: an old-time carousel at the Strossmayer Square

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1. Grad srednje veličine, bez gužvi, veoma miran i siguran U Zagrebu svaki gost koji ga je zavolio može lako i brzo osjetiti puls grada i upoznati njegove stanovnike. Možda i zato što je Zagreb grad koji živi na ulici, u kafićima, kavanama, barovima i restoranima, a čitavo središte za sunčanih dana postaje dnevna soba njegovih stanovnika. Grad je miran, ljudi se druže i bez

posebnih dogovora i najava, otvoreni su i ljubazni prema strancima i spremni pomoći jer su poprimili i zadržali starinski austrougarski Gemütlichkeit manjega kulturnoga grada. Zagreb je metropola u kojoj ritam života nije ubitačno ubrzan.

Talijanski dolce far niente, sposobnost opuštanja i radosti u svakodnevici, kojem se divila Elizabeth Gilbert u romanu, a kasnije i filmu Jedi, moli, voli, osjeća se i živi

03 Čarolija božićnih lampica poput zvjezdanog neba koje se spustilo na najljepši gradski trg Zrinjevac The magic of Christmas lights resembling the starry sky that descended on Zagreb’s most beautiful town square, Zrinjevac

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i u Zagrebu. To je povezano i s njegovom veličinom i organizacijom: središte grada odlično je povezano javnim prometom, nema nesnosnih gužvi i čekanja. U sve kulturne institucije, kojih je u središtu grada začuđujuće puno, više nego u velikim metropolama, ulazi se lako i brzo, bez redova i nervoze. Grad za opušteno uživanje.

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2. Odnedavno prava foodie destinacija prihvatljivih cijena Opušteno uživanje u Zagrebu izravno je povezano i s hranom, općenito kulinarskom scenom. U Zagrebu se nudi lokalno uzgojena hrana koju proizvođači prodaju na brojnim gradskim tržnicama. Glavna tržnica Dolac, koja se nalazi uz središnji Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, tajno je srce

Zagreba i njegova kulinarstva. Hrvatska je u zadnjih nekoliko godina doživjela velik procvat organskog uzgoja hrane, a Zagreb je dobio vibrantnu kulinarsku scenu. Osvojio je i svoju prvu Michelinovu zvjezdicu zahvaljujući restoranu Noel i chefu Goranu Kočišu, koji se u Hrvatsku vratio iz Njemačke i promiče internacionalnu kuhinju, ali s lokalno uz-

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01 Ledeni park na Tomislavovu trgu The ice skating rink of the Ice Park on King Tomislav Square 02 Zagrebački tramvaj u Ilici, najdužoj gradskoj ulici, pod adventskim kristalnim lusterima A Zagreb tram on Ilica, Zagreb’s longest street, under the Advent’s crystal chandeliers J. Duval

03 Koncert klasične glazbe u prelijepoj baroknoj crkvi sv. Katarine na Gornjem gradu A classical music concert in the beautiful baroque Church of St. Catharine in Zagreb’s Upper Town 03

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01 Pogled na Gornji grad, srednjovjekovni Zagreb s obrambenom kulom Lotrščak A view of the Upper Town, medieval Zagreb with the Lotrščak Tower 02 Krov crkve sv. Marka s ocakljenim crjepovima s grbom kraljevine Hrvatske, Slavonije i Dalmacije iz 19. stoljeća The glazed tiles of the roof of the Church of St. Mark with the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia from the 19th century

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03 Zagrebačka uspinjača Zagreb’s funicular

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gojenim sastojcima. Hrvatski su restorani od Michelina dobili 63 preporuke, a po popularnosti se kod Zagrepčana Noel natječe s nekoliko popularnih restorana, među njima i restoranom Nav iznimno originalnog chefa Tvrtka Šakote, koji

veoma često mijenja degustacijske menije sa sedam, 10 ili 12 sljedova, i to prema onome što je tog trenutka od sastojaka isključivo biodinamičkog uzgoja najbolje kod njegovih dobavljača. Najbolji zagrebački restorani još su uvijek prihvatljivih cijena koje nisu otišle u nebo kao u velikim zapadnim metropolama. Na tržnici Dolac možete naći popularne i jeftine restorane koji nude svježe namirnice i ribu, dnevni meni prilagođen ponudi na tržnici.

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3. Hipsterska Meka zbog kave i craft piva Zagrepčani jako vole sporo, ritualno ispijanje kave, a začuđujuće dobru ponudu kave pohvalila je i talijanska gastronomska Biblija, milanski mjesečnik La cucina italiana. Naime, za razliku od Italije, u Zagrebu se razvila manufakturna scena pržionica kave veoma pomno odabranih sorti sa svih strana svijeta. Zaljubljenici u kavu uživat će u Cogito kavi u šarmantnom Obrtničkom prolazu starog Zagreba, u središtu grada.

Sličan procvat ovdje je doživjela i scena craft piva. The Garden Brewery iz Zagreba pivski je klub Beer52 nedavno proglasio najboljom craft pivovarom među 9500 europskih pivovara. The Garden Brewery u kratkom je vremenu od otvorenja kreirao 77 vrsta piva, kao što su nagrađeni Vanilla & Chocolate Porter i drugi.

4. Gornji grad kao iznimno očuvana, mirna povijesna jezgra Zagrebački Gornji grad ili Gradec osnovan je u srednjem vijeku kao slobodni kraljevski grad smješten na brijegu nasuprot crkvenog Kaptola. Tu su na malenom prostoru, koji se gotovo uopće nije mijenjao kroz stoljeća, smještene mnoge barokne i klasicističke palače zagrebačke aristokracije, koje nas poput vremeplova vraćaju u davno vrijeme kad je u blizini naših patricija živio i Danteov unuk. Ovdje je i zgrada hrvatske Vlade, Sabor, crkva sv. Marka, iznimno važna za prošlost ovoga grada i zemlje, barokna crkva sv, Katarine, obnovljeni mali, ali šarmantni park Grič, koji se sastoji od arheološkog parka s ostacima palače Anžuvinaca iz 14. stoljeća i tipičnog zagrebačkog parka iz 19. stoljeća sa središnjom fontanom. Iskusne putnike koji žele uroniti u povijest ovoga srednjoeuropskoga grada oduševit će mir Gornjega grada bez turističkih gomila, lišen

upadljivih naznaka današnjeg vremena.

Malobrojni hrvatski plemenitaši i bogataši koji su krajem 19. stoljeća živjeli u ovoj četvrti − ovdje je živjelo svega nekoliko tisuća stanovnika, a čitav Zagreb tada je imao oko 80.000 stanovnika − izgradili su i uspinjaču do svojega Gornjega grada na brijegu, danas jednu od najpoznatijih turističkih atrakcija Zagreba.

5. Očuvana tradicija europskih grand hotela s početka stoljeća Zagrebački hotel Esplanade otvoren je 1925. i to u vrijeme najveće popularnosti Orient Expressa, otmjenog vlaka koji je popularizirala Agatha Christie, a koji je prolazio kroz Zagreb. Navodno je u ovoj zagrebačkoj hotelskoj grande dame odsjeo i jedan od najvećih američkih i svjetskih arhitekata Frank Lloyd Wright i primijetio ljepotu njezina mramora. Hotel Esplanade bio je i ostao središnje mjesto uglađenoga zagrebačkog života, s jednako dobrom poslugom kao iz vremena kad je bio otvoren. Za Zagrepčane je Esplanade mitska točka pripadanja središnjoj Europi, južna granica nakon koje počinje Balkan, kako je to kratko objasnio Miroslav Krleža, jedan od najvećih hrvatskih književnika. Ovdje se može uživati i u otmjenome engleskom 5 o’clock tea sa sendvičima i slasticama.

6. Zagreb je zeleni grad, stvoren za hodanje Zagrepčani imaju rijetku privilegiju stanovnika velikoga grada da se mogu veoma lako otputiti u planinarenje po šumovitom parku prirode tramvajem, čak i pješice. Medvednica, planina sjeverno od grada s vrhom Sljemenom, oduvijek je najpopularnije vikend odredište zahvaljujući planinarskim domovima i tipičnom ponudom jela − sir i vrhnje, bučnice i druge savijače, štrukli, grah − koja se nije promijenila desetljećima. No uz francuske parkove u središtu grada, ovdje je i veliki engleski perivoj, park Maksimir, prvi gradski perivoj jugoistočne Europe, star više od 200 godina, s najrazličitijim tajnama poput jezera, šumaraka, zoološkog vrta. Osobito ga vole rekreativci jer je šumovit, a idealan je za trčanje, bicikliranje, gradske šetnje s djecom. Odlične staze za rolanje i bicikl nudi i kompleks jezera Jarun u novom, jugozapadnom dijelu grada. Svatko bi trebao proći romantičnu turu kroz Zagreb s kraja 19. i početka 20.

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Esplanade Hotel Zagreb

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stoljeća, koja počinje na središnjem trgu, nastavlja se starom Radićevom ulicom, a potom i Jurjevskom ulicom u kojoj se nalazi vila Lubienski, jedna od najljepših ladanjskih vila u ovom dijelu Europe. Jurjevska ulica vodi do poljane Cmrok, gdje se Zagrepčani zimi sanjkaju. Sa Cmroka kreće šetnja gotovo kroz šumu, Dubravkinim putem, do popularne šminkerske destinacije, Dežmanove ulice s popularnim kavanama u kojima se okuplja beau monde.

7. Glamping u nacionalnom parku Plitvice ili kratki izlet na more Hrvatska ima jednu od najboljih europskih mreža autocesta pa Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti rado putuju jer mogu brzo i lako doći do Venecije ili Beča (četiri sata), a u samo dva sata do Graza, Ljubljane ili Trsta. Svakako se isplati posjetiti najstariji hrvatski nacionalni park Plitvice, s kompleksom čudesno lijepih jezera i slapova.

U selu Grabovac u blizini nacionalnog parka postoji glamping camp s dizajnerskim drvenim kućicama na visokim starim stablima i bungalovima uz jezero, šetnicama, restoranom. Mnogi se Zagrepčani ili njihovi gosti odlučuju i za kratki vikend posjet sjevernom Jadranu, Opatiji ili otoku Krku te Istri, koju nazivaju hrvatskom Toskanom s najboljim gastronomskom destinacijama u zemlji.

8. Muzej prekinutih veza Uz arheološki, povijesni, tehnički, školski i mnoge druge muzeje i galerije po mjeri čovjeka, iznimno ugodne za opuštene šetnje, Zagreb je prije desetak godina na Gornjem

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gradu, u jednom dijelu barokne palače Kulmer, dobio i najposjećeniji, posve originalan muzej o kojem su pisali gotovo svi najpoznatiji svjetski mediji, od The Economista, Der Spiegela, Le Mondea, The Daily Telegrapha, The Independenta, The Guardiana, BBC-a, CNN-a, New York Timesa i mnogih drugih. Jeremy Clarkson, popularni voditelj BBC-jeve emisije o automobilizmu, u svojoj je kolumni u The Sunday Timesu napisao da su mnogi poznati svjetski muzeji uz nekoliko razglašenih umjetnina prepuni stvari koje nas umaraju, ali Muzej prekinutih veza, koji je slučajno posjetio u Zagrebu, za Clarksona je dirljiv, inteligentan, očarava, na trenutke je veoma tužan, a opet i veoma, veoma duhovit. To je jedini muzej u kojem sam se zaustavio ispred baš svakog izloška i svi su bili posve nevjerojatni, fenomenalni. Ovdje svaki izložak priča jedinstvenu životnu priču, obraća se našem srcu i životnom iskustvu, svima nam je razumljiv. Motivacija za doniranje svih tih osobnih predmeta povezanih s nekom prekinutom životnom vezom može biti egzibicionizam ili bijes pa i znatiželja, no uvijek donosi terapijsko olakšanje kroz ritual priznanja tragičnoga kraja jedne veze, što može terapijski djelovati i na promatrača.

9. Zagreb i njegove kulturne atrakcije Zagrebačku građansku arhitekturu s kraja 19. stoljeća obilježio je rad austrijskog arhitekta Hermana Bolléa, koji vjerno dokazuje pripadnost Zagreba austrougarskoj kulturi. Bollé je došao u Zagreb na poziv biskupa Josipa Jurja Strossmayera i ubrzo stvorio neka od najljepših zdanja Zagreba.

Njegovo groblje Mirogoj iz 1873. na tada udaljenim obroncima Medvednice mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepših europskih groblja s historicističkim arkadama u kojima počivaju najveći hrvatski političari, umjetnici i dostojanstvenici.

Bollé je izgradio zgradu Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti, obnovio mnoge crkve i veličanstvenu zagrebačku katedralu Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i svetih Stjepana i Ladislava u neogotičkom stilu te biskupski dvor. Riznica zagrebačke katedrale skriva neprocjenjiva kulturna i crkvena blaga koja su se tu prikupljala u devet stoljeća njezine povijesti.

Neposredno ispod katedrale uređen je Europski trg s pješačkom zonom koja često, a posebno zimi, za vrijeme Adventa, postaje izložbeni prostor za kušanje omiljenih jela zagrebačkih restorana.

Bollé je izgradio i reprezentativnu historicističku palaču Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt, jednu od prvih takvih institucija u Europi, koja se oslanjala na engleski pokret Arts & Crafts i trebala poslužiti kao zbirka uzoraka i nadahnuće izvrsnim zagrebačkim majstorima i obrtnicima.

Sve su to vrijedna i zanimljiva mjesta koja svakako treba obići.

Na trgu na kojem se nalazi Muzej za umjetnost i obrt uzdiže se i Hrvatsko narodno kazalište, otvoreno 1895., kićeno remek-djelo kasnog historicizma, očuvano u izvornom obliku. Zimi Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti najviše uživaju u bijelim baletima − Giselle, Labuđem jezeru, Orašaru i drugim klasičnim djelima − za koje je ta zgrada kao stvorena. Karte svakako treba rezervirati unaprijed.

Skriveni zagrebački muzejski dragulj jest i odlično organizirani Muzej grada Zagreba na Gornjem gradu u nekadašnjem samostanu klarisa iz 1650. Muzej nas pregledno i zanimljivo vodi kroz uzbudljivih 900 godina zagrebačke povijesti.

10. Advent u Zagrebu Nekoć davno, među najbolje čuvanim tajnama o Hrvatskoj bila je ona da njezina prijestolnica Zagreb nudi jedan od najboljih adventskih programa. Prije četiri godine ta tajna je otkrivena kada je, u prosincu, Advent u Zagrebu proglašen najboljim u Europi, a zatim je tu titulu obranio još dva puta za redom, postavši jedino odredište kojem je to uspjelo. Zagrebačke ulice žive za sunčanih dana, ali još naglašenije i strasnije kad je hladno, vjetrovito ili čak sniježi.

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he people of Zagreb, Zagrebians, love their city dearly. They refer to it fondly in many popular songs, and although they know that it’s neither Vienna nor Paris, they still let it know lovingly that it’s got nothing to shy away from... Even today they serenade My Zagreb, I Love You So, a song written in the 1930s, at a time when it gained most momentum in serious

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urbanisation and when the Croatian capital grew the most. So why do Zagrebians serenade their city, singing there’s nothing in the world that I’d trade you for, my Zagreb, I love you so... for me, you’re the most beautiful town?

The Lonely Planet travel guide declared Zagreb its no. 1 Best in Europe destination in 2017. Even Zagrebians in love with their typical Central European city were surprised that in 2017 Zagreb beat the Croatian coast, 1800 kilometres of the beautiful eastern Adriatic, having become a destination in its own right, and not just a stopover on one’s way to the coast. A Forbes journalist wrote in her article that Zagreb is a place to visit because, in it, you’re not surrounded by thousands of tourists. This is indeed one of its advantages.

We’ll let you in on ten secrets that make

01 Zagrebački grand hotel Esplanade, otvoren za putnike Orient Expressa 1925., i danas je središnje mjesto uglađenoga gradskog života Opened in 1925 to cater to Orient Express passengers, Zagreb’s grand Esplanade Hotel remains the centre of refinement and elegance in the life of the city 02 Hrvatsko narodno kazališne iz 1895., očuvano u izvornom obliku, kao stvoreno je za bijele balete, za koje se zimi uvijek traži karta više Preserved in its original form, the Croatian National Theatre from 1895 is ideal for white ballets, whose tickets are always in high demand 03 Mirogoj, najljepše groblje na svijetu, kako mu tepaju Zagrepčani Mirogoj, the most beautiful cemetery in the world, according to locals

Zagreb irresistible to both its residents and foreigners, diplomats, businessmen, tourists... all those who’ve fallen in love with it and who keep on returning.

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Središte grada miriši kao bakina kuhinja po cimetu, klinčiću, kuhanom vinu i drugim adventskim specijalitetima koje inače ne jedemo, i tih dvadesetak dana prije Božića najednom se ljudi ozareno i sretno druže na ulici, nazdravljaju jedni drugima, vedro gledaju u budućnost. Na adventskim štandovima, oko kojih je uvijek živo, predstavljaju se i novi ambiciozni gradski restorani, nudi najbolje craft pivo, koje pijemo cupkajući na božićne standarde, ali i nešto ambicioznije besplatne koncerte na otvorenome. To je prilika da prošećemo i okićenim Tunelom Grič, izgrađenim kao sklonište u Drugom svjetskom ratu, koji se pretvara u Božićnu bajku i zaštićenu promenadu ispod Gornjega grada.

Na historicističkom Tomislavovu trgu nikne prekrasni Ledeni park, klizalište s razvedenom vijugavom stazom kroz francuski park, s glazbom i kućicama s kuhanom vinom i božićnim specijalitetima.

Neposredno nakon Nove godine, dok je još otvoren adventski sajam u Zagrebu (traje do 7. siječnja), u središtu grada i na Sljemenu održava se i skijaško natjecanje Snježna kraljica posvećeno našoj najpoznatijoj sportašici i skijašici, Zagrepčanki Janici Kostelić.

1. A mid-sized city, without everyday crowds or traffic jams, very quiet and safe In Zagreb, all who’ve fallen in love with it can easily and quickly get a feel for the rhythm of the city and get to know its residents. Perhaps because Zagreb is a city that lives on the streets, in cafes, pubs, bars and restaurants, and when it’s sunny the entire city centre becomes the living room of its inhabitants. The city is quiet, its people socialise and hang out without making special prior arrangements and appointments, they’re open and kind to foreigners, and always ready to help because they’ve adopted and retained that

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01 Dolac, srce zagrebačkog kulinarstva, tržnica s lokalnom ponudom malih poljoprivrednih proizvođača Dolac, the heart of Zagreb’s cuisine, an open-air market where the products of small family farms can be bought 02 Muzej prekinutih veza, najpopularniji novi muzej koji prenosi zanimljive, dirljive, istinite priče o ljubavi i prekidima s kojima se svi mogu poistovijetiti The Museum of Broken Relationships, the most popular new museum displaying and communicating fascinating, touching, true love and breakup stories that everyone can relate to

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old Austro-Hungarian Gemütlichkeit of a smaller cultured city. Zagreb is a modern city whose pace of life is not hectic. The Italian dolce far niente, the ability to relax and enjoy everyday life − which has been much admired by Elizabeth Gilbert first in her novel and later the movie, Eat, Pray, Love − is both felt and lived in Zagreb.

This is also related to its size and organisation: the city centre is well connected with public transport, the crowds are not unbearable, and there are no everyday traffic jams and no queuing. You can enter all its cultural hotspots − which there are surprisingly many of in the city centre, more than in other big metropolises − easily and quickly, without having to queue and get nervous about it. In a nutshell, a city ideal for relaxed enjoyment.

2. As of recently, Zagreb’s a real foodie destination at affordable prices Your relaxed enjoyment of Zagreb is also directly linked to food, its food scene in general. In Zagreb, the food on offer is locally grown and sold by its producers at Zagreb’s many open-air markets. Adjacent to the central Ban Josip Jelačić Square, the main open-air market, Dolac, is the secret heart of Zagreb and its cuisine. In Croatia, organic food production has bloomed greatly in recent years, and Zagreb has developed a vibrant food scene. Zagreb also boasts its first Michelin-starred restaurant − Noel Restaurant and chef Goran Kočiš, who, being a Croatian expatriate who returned to Croatia from Germany, promotes international cuisine, but prepared with

locally grown ingredients. Croatia boasts 63 Michelin-recommended restaurants altogether, and as far as Zagreb’s favourite restaurants are concerned, Noel competes with several popular restaurants, one of which is Nav and its extremely original chef Tvrtko Šakota, offering seven-, tenor twelve-course tasting menus that he changes often, and this depending on what his suppliers can supply him with in terms of biodynamically grown ingredients.

Zagreb’s best restaurants are still reasonably priced since their prices haven’t skyrocketed as in other big cities in the West.

There are some popular and inexpensive restaurants at the Dolac Market that offer fresh fish and other fresh foods depending on what’s available at Dolac.

3. A hipster coffee and craft beer mecca Zagrebians love their slow coffee culture and drinking ritual very much. The Italian gastronomic Bible, the Milanese monthly La Cucina Italiana, has praised Zagreb’s surprisingly good offer of coffee. More specifically, unlike in Italy, Zagreb’s developed a specialty coffee roasting scene, with roasters roasting carefully selected varieties of coffee beans from around the world.

Coffee lovers will surely enjoy the Cogito Coffee cafe in the charming Craftsmen Passage (Obrtnički prolaz) in Zagreb’s old downtown.

The local craft beer scene has enjoyed a similar boom. The Zagreb-based Garden Brewery has recently been voted best brewery in the EU at the Beer52 beer club awards from amongst 9500 European breweries. In a very short time since opening, the Garden Brewery has created as many as 77 different types of beer, such as the award-winning Vanilla & Chocolate Porter and others.

4. Zagreb’s Upper Town, an extremely well preserved and serene historic centre Zagreb’s Upper Town or Gradec was founded in the Middle Ages as a free royal town located on a hill opposite the adjacent hill of ecclesiastical Kaptol. The small space of the Upper Town, which hasn’t really changed over the centuries, is home to Zagreb’s aristocracy’s many baroque and classicistic palaces, which take you back in time, much like a time machine, to when Dante’s grandson lived amongst Zagreb’s

5. Zagreb’s upheld the tradition of European grand hotels from the beginning of the 20th century The Esplanade Hotel in Zagreb opened its doors in 1925, in the prime of the popularity of the Orient Express, a chic train popularised by Agatha Christie which also passed through Zagreb. Reportedly, one of the greatest American and world architects, Frank Lloyd Wright, stayed at this grande dame hotel and spotted the beauty of its marble. The Esplanade Hotel has been and remains the centre of refinement and elegance in the life of the city, whose service is as good as it was when it first opened. For Zagrebians, the Esplanade is a mythical point that says they belong to Central Europe, its southern border beyond which the Balkans begins, as Miroslav Krleža, one of Croatia’s greatest writers, explained in brief. Here you can also enjoy fancy English afternoon tea served alongside sandwiches and desserts.

6. Zagreb’s a green city, made for walking Zagrebians have the rare privilege of big city dwellers to be able to go hiking in a wooded nature park by tram, even on foot.

Medvednica, a mountain north of town with its peak, Sljeme, has always been a most popular weekend destination thanks to

cany boasting some of the best gourmet destinations in the country.

its mountain huts offering a typical menu − including dished such as fresh cheese and sour cream, a poor man’s squash and cheese strudel typical of the Northern regions of Croatia called bučnica, strudel, cooked or baked cheese-filled pasta-like dough also typical of the Northern regions of Croatia called štrukli, bean stew − which hasn’t changed for decades.

Besides the city centre’s French-style parks, Zagreb also boasts a large Englishstyle park, Maksimir, the first city park of Southeast Europe which is over 200 years old featuring hidden gems to be discovered, such as lakes, groves, and a zoo. It’s much loved by recreational sports enthusiasts because it’s wooded and is ideal for running and biking, and is perfect for city walks with children.

Located in Zagreb’s new, south-western part, the Jarun Lake complex features great cycling and rollerblading paths.

Taking a romantic tour through turn-of-thecentury Zagreb is an absolute must! The tour starts at the central city square, takes you along old Radićeva Street and then Jurjevska Street with Lubienski Villa, one of the most beautiful country villas in this part of Europe. Jurjevska Street leads to Cmrok, a meadow where Zagrebians go sledging in winter. From Cmrok, you can take a walk along Dubravka’s Path through wooded land, taking you to a popular hipster destination, Dežmanova Street with popular cafes where the beau monde gathers.

7. Glamping in the Plitvice Lakes National Park or a short trip to the coast Croatia boasts one of Europe’s best motorway networks, and so Zagrebians and their guests often travel because they can get to Venice or Vienna in as little as four hours, and in just two hours they’re in Graz, Ljubljana or Trieste. The oldest Croatian national park, the Plitvice Lakes National Park, featuring a complex of breath-taking lakes and waterfalls, is an absolute must-see natural attraction! In the village of Grabovac near the national park, there’s a glamping camp where you glamp in designer tree houses and bungalows by the lake, featuring facilities such as walking trails and a restaurant. Many Zagrebians and their guests also often go for short weekend breaks and trips to the northern Adriatic, Opatija or the Island of Krk and Istria, which is often called Croatia’s Tus-

8. Museum of Broken Relationships Besides an archaeology, a history, a technical, a schools and many other museums and galleries, some ten years ago, Zagreb’s Upper Town became home to Zagreb’s most visited and completely original museum. Located in one part of the baroque Kulmer Palace, it was written about or reported on by almost all the leading media from around the world, such as The Economist, Der Spiegel, Le Monde, The Daily Telegraph, The Independent, The Guardian, BBC, CNN, New York Times and many others. In a column of his in The Sunday Times, Jeremy Clarkson, a popular motoring journalist and presenter, wrote that, besides displaying only one really exciting exhibit each, most of the world’s museums are filled almost entirely with stuff that’s not very interesting. By contrast, the Museum of Broken Relationships, which he visited quite by chance whilst in Zagreb, is − Clarkson continues − moving, intelligent, charming, very sad at times and yet very, very witty. This was the only museum where he stopped in front of literally every exhibit, and they were all absolutely amazing, phenomenal. Here, each exhibit tells a unique life story, addresses your heart and life experience, and you can relate to them with ease. What motivated people to donate all the personal items related to a broken relationship of theirs on display at the museum can be exhibitionism or anger, even curiosity. However, it always brings therapeutic relief through the ritual of acknowledging that a relationship has sadly ended, and this can also have a therapeutic effect on the observer.

9. Zagreb’s cultural attractions Zagreb’s urban architecture from the end of the 19th century was stamped by the

Š. Lugarov

patricians. The Upper Town is also where the buildings of the Croatian Government and Parliament are, the Church of St. Mark, which is extremely important for the history of both Zagreb and Croatia, the baroque Church of St. Catherine, the small but charming Grič Park, which has recently been renovated and consists of an archaeological site with the remains of an Angevin palace from the 14th century and a typical 19th century Zagreb park with a fountain in the middle. Experienced travellers wishing to immerse themselves in the history of this Central European city will be delighted by the peace and quiet of the Upper Town without tourists crowding and devoid of obvious signs of the world of today. The few Croatian noble families and wealthy people who lived in this neighbourhood at the end of the 19th century − at the time, the entire city of Zagreb was home to as little as 80,000 people, and only a few thousand people lived in the Upper Town − built a funicular to their Upper Town on the hill, one of Zagreb’s most famous tourist attractions today.

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S. Katelan

work of the Austrian architect Herman Bollé, whose work is a clear sign that Zagreb unmistakably belongs to the circle of Austro-Hungarian culture. Bollé came to Zagreb at the invitation of Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer, and soon created some of Zagreb’s most beautiful buildings. His Mirogoj cemetery from 1873 on the then remote slopes of Medvednica is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful European cemeteries featuring historicist arcades, the final resting place of the greatest Croatian politicians, artists and dignitaries.

Bollé also built the building of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, renovated many churches, including the magnificent neo-gothic Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Saint Stephen and Saint Ladislaus and the Bishops’ Court. The treasury of the Zagreb Cathedral houses priceless cultural and ecclesiastical treasures which have been collected there over its nine-century-long history.

At the foot of the cathedral, the European Square has found its place. It’s a pedestrian zone, which often − particularly in winter, during the Advent season − becomes an exhibition space for Zagreb’s favourite restaurants offering their most popular dishes.

Bollé was also the author of the historicist palace of the Museum of Arts and Crafts, one of the first such institutions in Europe, which was inspired by the English Arts & Crafts movement and was to be a collection of models and an inspiration

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to Zagreb’s superb masters, artisans and craftsmen. All these are fascinating places definitely worth visiting.

The square where the Museum of Arts and Crafts is located is also where the Croatian National Theatre stands. It opened its doors in 1895, and is an ornate masterpiece of late historicism, which has been preserved in its original form. In winter, the locals and their guests find much pleasure in frequenting white ballets − Giselle, Swan Lake, The Nutcracker and other classical ballets − which this building is ideal for.

Tickets should be booked in advance.

The well-organised Zagreb City Museum in the Upper Town, set up in the once Monastery of the Poor Clares from 1650, is another hidden museum gem to be discovered in Zagreb. It guides you through Zagreb’s exciting 900 years of history in a clear and interesting way.

10. Zagreb Advent Not so long ago, one of the best kept secrets about Croatia was that its capital, Zagreb, boasts one of the best Christmas markets. Four years ago, this secret was revealed when, in December, the Advent in Zagreb was voted the best Christmas market in Europe. It then defended the title two more times in a row, with Zagreb having become the only destination to have succeeded in being the best for three years in a row.

The streets of Zagreb bubble with life on sunny days, but come alive ever more pronouncedly and passionately when it’s cold, windy or even snowy. The city centre

smells like your grandma’s kitchen, the air’s infused with the scent of cinnamon, cloves, mulled wine and other Advent specialities that you don’t normally eat. During these twenty or so days before Christmas, suddenly everyone’s radiant, people hang out on the street, everyone’s happy, toasts are drunk at every corner, and we look forward to the future. At Christmas market stalls, which are always packed with people, new ambitious city restaurants present themselves, the best craft beer is offered, which you’ll be happy to drink while jigging about to your all-time favourite Christmas songs, or while at a free open-air concert. While visiting the Christmas market, make sure you walk through the festively decorated Grič Tunnel, which was built as a shelter in World War II, and which turns into a Christmas fairy-tale setting and a sheltered promenade below the Upper Town.

At the historicist King Tomislav Square, beautiful ice rink sprouts, the Ice Park, featuring meandering ice skating trails through a French-style park, with music playing in the background, and Christmas market stalls embracing the rink with mulled wine and various Christmas specialities on offer.

Immediately after New Year’s, while the Christmas market is still open in Zagreb (it closes on 7th January), Zagreb’s also home to the Snow Queen Trophy skiing competition in the city centre and on Sljeme dedicated to Croatia’s most famous athlete and skier, Zagreb-born Janica

Kostelić.

Zagreb je domicilna zračna luka Croatia Airlinesa. Zrakoplovi nacionalnog avioprijevoznika u zimskom redu letenja iz Zagreba izravno lete u 15 europskih odredišta: Amsterdam, Barcelonu, Beč, Bruxelles, Kopenhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, London, München, Mostar, Pariz, Skoplje, Sarajevo i Zürich.

Zagreb’s airport is Croatia Airlines’ hub airport. During the winter timetable, Croatia Airlines is flying from Zagreb directly to 15 European destinations: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Vienna, Brussels, Copenhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, London, Munich, Mostar, Paris, Skopje, Sarajevo and Zurich.

croatiaairlines.com _ m.croatiaairlines.com

PULA MEDULIN BERLIN COLOGNE NUREMBERG BUDAPEST arenahotels.com arenacampsites.com

KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA CONTINENTAL CROATIA

ILOK

GRAD KRALJEVSKOG TRAMINCA

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Piše/By _ Slobodan Bukvić Fotografije/Photos _ Šime Lugarov

THE TOWN OF THE RO YAL TRAMINAC

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Stari podrum Iločkih podruma The old wine cellar of Iločki podrumi

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Arhiva ledene berbe traminca Iločkih podruma iz 2007.

The 2007 Traminac ice wine archives of Iločki podrumi

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01 Iločko pristanište za kruzere na Dunavu i most Ilok Ilok’s port for the docking of cruisers sailing the Danube and the Ilok Bridge 02 Iločke zidine u staroj jezgri grada Ilok’s old town walls 03 Građanska radna soba, Muzej grada Iloka A civic study room, Ilok Municipal Museums 04 Pogled na zidine, kuriju Brnjaković i crkvu svetog Ivana Kapistrana iz Muzeja grada Iloka A view of Ilok’s town walls, the Brnjaković Manor and the Church of St. John Capistran from the Ilok Municipal Museum 02

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Gotovo je nemoguće spomenuti grad Ilok a da ga odmah ne povežemo s njegovim nadaleko poznatim iločkim tramincem. A kada se prirodna ljepota i šarm Iloka te njegovo jedinstveno vino i gastronomija spoje s bogatstvom zanimljive povijesti, imate puno razloga da posjetite ovaj živopisan, romantičan i ponajviše ugodan grad.

It’s virtually impossible to mention the town of Ilok without immediately linking it to its prized Traminac variety of grape. And when Ilok’s natural attractions and charm, and its unique wines and foods are interlaced with a wealth of fascinating history, you have plenty of reasons to visit this picturesque, romantic and pleasant town.

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01 Iločka vina Ilok’s wines

rad Ilok, najistočniji grad Hrvatske s oko 7000 stanovnika, orijentiran je na vinogradarstvo i vinarstvo i, naravno, na turizam. Svojom bogatom poviješću, osebujnim izgledom te bogatom i raznolikom ponudom pružit će vam jedinstven i nezaboravan doživljaj uz nezaobilaznu kapljicu čuvenog iločkog traminca kao i drugih sorti visokokvalitetnih i osebujnih vina.

Zahvaljujući savršenu smještaju na prekrasnome Dunavu i brežuljkastim obroncima Fruške gore, Ilok je već odavno postao dunavsko kraljevstvo vina. Ali ne samo to! Grad Ilok je uz stari kraljevski grad Knin bio jedino hrvatsko srednjovjekovno kraljevstvo.

Ilok se prvi put spominje već 1267. godine po izvornom nazivu Vjlok ili Wjlok. Kao i svi zanimljivi gradovi koji nas često već na prvi pogled oduševe, i ovaj je grad imao burnu povijest. Duga povijesna priča ovoga grada počela je prije 4500 godina. Korijene vuče još iz kamenoga i brončanog doba, a za vrijeme Rimskog Carstva, zbog važnog vojno-strateškog i geografskog položaja, ovdje se nalazila rimska konjanička utvrda Cuccium. Brojni arheološki ostaci poput iskopina hramova, rimskog vodovoda, nadgrobnih spomenika i sarkofaga te staroga rimskog novca svjedoče o njegovoj davnoj prošlosti.

Značajniji napredak Ilok doživljava u srednjem vijeku razvojem obrta i trgovine, u koji su se uključili i trgovci iz Dubrovnika. Oni su svoj trag ostavili, između

02 Stari podrum Iločkih podruma The old wine cellar of Iločki podrumi 03 Ladanjsko imanje Principovac The Principovac Country Estate

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ostalog, i na arhitekturi i tada građenim skalinama koje povezuju gornji i donji dio grada Iloka te izgradnji zidina po uzoru na tadašnje dubrovačke zidine. Zato se za grad Ilok ponekad upotrebljava i naziv kontinentalni Dubrovnik. Osobit procvat grad je doživio za vrijeme kneza Nikole Iločkoga, koji je sagradio dvorac i ujedno započeo kovanje novca na kojem se prvi put pojavila poznata crveno-bijela šahovnica kao simbol hrvatskoga grba. Vrhunac srednjovjekovnog razvoja Ilok postiže 1525., kada dobiva status kraljevskoga grada. Grb slobodnoga grada Iloka izradio je poznati hrvatski slikar i minijaturist Julije Klović.

Za vrijeme osmanske vladavine Ilok dobiva jedno prepoznatljivo obilježje. Grad koji je pružao dugogodišnji otpor ipak su zauzeli Turci 1526. godine i ondje proveli gotovo dva stoljeća. Do danas se primjećuju mnogi tragovi i povijesna obilježja iz tog razdoblja, a ogledaju se u arhitekturi, gastronomiji kao i u ostacima mnogih turskih riječi koje se i danas upotrebljavaju u Iloku i okolici. Oslobođenjem Iloka od turske vladavine 1787. godine važna uloga u njegovoj obnovi i općem razvoju pripada talijanskoj obitelji Odescalchi, koja obnavlja ne samo stari porušeni srednjovjekovni dvorac Nikole Iločkoga nego ispod njega proširuje i izvorni vinski podrum. Obitelj uređuje i veliki park koji je postao sastavni dio šarma grada Iloka. Za vrijeme vladavine obitelji Odescalchi grad je doživio drugi značajniji skok u arhitektonskom, gospodarskom i kulturnog razvoju. Uz dvorac Odescalchi, u kojemu je danas Muzej grada Iloka, posebno je zanimljiva i poznata stara gotička crkva Svetog Ivana Kapistrana sa samostanom, koji svakako treba posjetiti. Sveti Ivan Kapistran ujedno je i zaštitnik grada Iloka.

Naravno, kad ste u Iloku, ne možete ne posjetiti čuveni Stari podrum ispod dvorca Odescalchi, koji ima višestoljetnu tradiciju i svojevrstan je sinonim grada Iloka.

Vinogradarstvo i vinarstvo u Iloku se počelo razvijati još za vrijeme rimskog cara Probusa, koji je navodno donio kvalitetne sorte vinove loze iz Grčke. Već tada se primijetilo da dobra zemlja ovoga kraja i velik broj sunčanih dana tijekom godine omogućuju dobivanje vrlo kvalitetnih vina.

Tradiciju proizvodnje vina nastavlja i knez Nikola Iločki, koji ispod svojeg dvorca gradi vinski podrum. Obitelji Odescalchi još više pridonosi poboljšanju vinogradarske

i vinarske prakse Iloka stalnim širenjem nasada vinove loze i proširenjem starog podruma kneza Nikole Iločkoga. Ovaj je podrum posebna atrakcija koja se mora posjetiti prilikom posjeta Iloku. Zadivit će vas njegova stara arhitektura iz 15. i 18. stoljeća, bačve načinjene od poznatoga slavonskog hrasta te velike količine raznovrsnoga poznatog vina iz iločkoga područja. Naravno, posebno mjesto i poštovanje među tim vinima zauzima nadaleko poznati iločki traminac − vino jedinstvenoga cvjetnog, aromatičnog i egzotičnog okusa. Dobri poznavatelji i ljubitelji vina kažu da se već nakon jednoga kušanja više ne zaboravlja raskošni, razmetljivi i specifični okus toga posebnog vina neobičnog i opojnog mirisa i okusa, koje po svemu spada u rijetka i posebna vina u svijetu. A tek kasna berba traminca − to je prava svečanost i rapsodija bogatstva vinsko-kraljevskoga doživljaja.

Da je iločki traminac posebno cijenjeno vino, govori i činjenica da se već desetljećima redovito pije u dvorcu britanske kraljice Elizabete. Štoviše, za svečanost njezine krunidbe 1953. naručeno je 11.000 boca kvalitetnoga, posebno očuvanog arhivskog iločkog traminca.

Kraljica Elizabeta navodno je prilikom proslave svojeg devedesetog rođendana izjavila da svoju dugovječnost, između ostaloga, zahvaljuje i čaši iločkog traminca poslije ručka. Engleski dvor gotovo redovito naručuje posebno čuvani arhivski iločki traminac, pa se i na vjenčanju princa Williama uživalo u finim kapljicama ovoga kraljevskog traminca. Naravno, i mnoge druge ugledne ličnosti i vinoljupci uljepšavaju ugodne i posebne trenutke neodoljivim iločkim tramincem. Ovdje su, dakako, poznate i druge vrste vina poput graševine, sivog pinota, rajnskog rizlinga, chardonnaya, sauvignona, frankovke i još nekih dobro usklađenih kombinacija raznih vina.

Uz povijesni Stari podrum nalazi se i kušaonica i lijepi prigodno uređeni restoran u kojemu ćete naći odlične srijemske specijalitete, uključujući poznati i u Europi zaštićeni slavonski kulen. Ne propustite prilikom posjeta restoranu Stari podrum Iločkih podruma d. d. kušati i platu slatkovodnih riječnih riba poput soma, šarana, štuke, smuđa i druge svježe ribe ulovljene u Dunavu i njegovim mnogobrojnim pritocima u blizini Iloka. Naravno, ne propustite ni poznati tradicionalni fiš paprikaš, koji

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je pravi užitak i za najizbirljivije gurmane.

Uživat ćete zasigurno i u tradicionalnim mesnim specijalitetima ovoga kraja, a razne vrste odličnih iločkih vina pridonijet će tomu da gastro i eno doživljaj budu potpuni i nezaboravni. Ako se poslije ručka odlučite za prekrasnu šetnju od Gornjega grada Iloka prema Donjem gradu, vaš će doživljaj biti savršen i krajnje ugodan.

Uživat ćete šetajući prekrasnom alejom platana uz izniman i veličanstven pogled na gornji dio grada, na njegove povijesne zidine, na crkvu i samostan Svetog Ivana Kapistrana te na dvorac Odescalchi.

Nastavite li ugodnu šetnju i romantičnom šetnicom uz Dunav, uživat ćete u toj predivnoj rijeci i zelenilu oko nje; sjetite se i nekog Straussova valcera jer ni on nije mogao odoliti čarima i ljepoti ove poznate europske rijeke. Dunav kroz svoju povijest i sadašnjost povezuje i zbližuje tolike narode. Osobito je impresivan i zalazak sunca na Dunavu.

Preporuča se i posjetiti obližnji Šarengrad, tradicionalno ribarsko mjesto na Dunavu, zatim Bapsku i svakako Dolinu mamuta Mohovo, s divovskim skulpturama od slame uz cestu Vukovar − Ilok, te poznati Vučedolski muzej, u kojem ćete pronaći vrijednu arheološku zbirku jedne stare civilizacije i poznatu Vučedolsku golubicu.

A kada posjetiti ovaj grad? Ilok i njegova okolica preporuka su za sva godišnja doba. Zimi ćete uživati u snježnoj idili, možda zaleđenu Dunavu, zimskim šetnjama gradom i okolicom, a možda i u ro-

mantičnoj vožnji saonicama sa zapregom poznatih slavonskih lipicanaca.

U proljeće će vas oduševiti buđenje prirode, raznovrsnog zelenila i procvalih voćnjaka koji okružuju Ilok, kao i radovi na mnogobrojnim vinogradima. Ljeto je vrijeme koje donosi raskošno njihanje zlatno-žutoga žita, prelijepa polja žutih suncokreta, cvjetne livade i slatke plodove voćnjaka te zelene vinograde koji već nagovješćuju kvalitetu grožđa i budućega vina. Dunav također donosi ljetnu radost i uživanje u ribolovu i raznim sportskim aktivnostima.

A u jesen, najveća atrakcija i radost za vinogradare, vinare i mnogobojne posjetitelje tradicionalne su iločke berbe. U vrijeme berbe zacijelo ćete uživati u svim vrstama odličnoga grožđa, ali osobito u tramincu. Nemojte propustiti jedinstvenu priliku da tada u Iloku posjetite Principovac, na kojemu se upravo i uzgaja traminac. Vrsni poznavatelji vina zato su i dali posebno zaslužen epitet tramincu nazvavši ga Princem s Principovca.

Potpuno i nezaboravno zadovoljstvo i iskustvo pružit će vam i eventualni boravak u apartmanima visoke kategorije Principovac koji nudi vrlo kvalitetan smještaj i usluge. S poznatog vidikovca na vrhu zgrade pruža predivan i jedinstven pogled na vinograde koji ga okružuju, na okolicu Iloka pa i dio Srijema.

Ilok i okolica ne mogu vas nikada iznevjeriti − samo oduševiti. Osobito neizmjerna ljubaznost, dobronamjernost i poseban

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rima iz jednog egzodusa, onim zaljubljenicima iločkih prostranstava koji nikada nisu poimali zaludnost povratka na svoja ognjišta. Jer i njima je, kao i Straussu, ta plava rijeka metafora neizbrisive povijesti i civilizacijske svijesti u današnjici.

A taj kraljevski iločki traminac opstaje i veseli kao trajna poveznica prošlosti, sadašnjosti i budućnosti.

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01 Pročelje Muzeja grada Iloka, dvorac Odescalchi − rekonstrukcija originalnih prozora iz srednjeg vijeka, najmodernija gradnja u Europi u to doba, i današnje obnovljeno pročelje The facade of the Ilok Municipal Museum, the Odescalchi Manor − today’s refurbished facade boasting original medieval windows, the most modern construction work in then Europe, now reconstructed 02 Salon obitelji Odescalchi u kojem su održavali primanja, Muzej grada Iloka u dvorcu Odescalchi The Odescalchi’s great hall where receptions used to be held, the Ilok Municipal Museum at the Odescalchi Manor 03 Šetnja planinarskom stazom Liska u Iloku A walk along the Liska hiking trail in Ilok

šarm ljudi ovoga kraja. O tome svjedoče i riječi čovjeka koji je dao značajan doprinos u razvoju vinogradarstva i vinarstva ovog kraja, dr. Nikole Miroševića: - Volim u tom okružju, pod vizurama franjevačkog samostana, tog duhovnog braništa, doživjeti dunavske zore i sutone, ispisivati intimni dnevnik doživljen s tim časnim ljudima. Onim duhovnim stože-

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he town of Ilok, Croatia’s easternmost town with a population of about 7000, is orientated towards viticulture and winemaking and, of course, tourism.

With its rich history, distinctive features, and rich and varied offer, a visit to Ilok will be a unique and unforgettable experience, particularly if coupled with a glass of Ilok’s famous Traminac and other varieties of high quality and distinctive wines.

Thanks to its ideal location on the beautiful Danube and the undulating slopes of Fruška Gora, Ilok has long since become the Danubian kingdom of wine. But there’s more! Besides the old royal town of Knin, the town of Ilok was the only other Croatian medieval kingdom.

Ilok was first mentioned as early as 1267 as Vjlok or Wjlok. Like all interesting towns that often delight you at first glance, Ilok too has had a turbulent history, whose story began 4500 years ago. It dates back to the Stone and Bronze Age, and during the Roman Empire it was − thanks to its important military and geostrategic position − the location of a Roman cavalry fort, namely Cuccium.

The many archaeological sites and remains, such as the ruins of temples, a Roman aqueduct, tombstones and sarcophagi, and

ancient Roman coins, testify to Ilok’s ancient history.

In the Middle Ages, Ilok enjoyed a remarkable boom thanks to the development of crafts and trade, which Dubrovnik-based merchants were also involved in. They left their mark on, amongst other things, Ilok’s architecture, the public stairs built at the time to connect the upper and lower parts of town, and the construction of town walls modelled on the then walls of Dubrovnik.

This is why Ilok is at times referred to as continental Dubrovnik. Ilok enjoyed another remarkable boom during the reign of Nicholas of Ilok, who erected a manor and started minting coins, which the famous red and white checkerboard, the symbol of the Croatian coat of arms, appeared on for the first time. It was in 1525 that the development of medieval Ilok peaked, when it was given the status of a royal free town. The coat of arms of the free town of Ilok was authored by the famous Croatian painter and miniaturist, Julije Klović.

During the Ottoman rule, Ilok was given its distinctive look. Although managing to resist the Ottoman army for many years, it was in the end occupied by the Turks in 1526 who spent nearly two centuries there. The Turks left their mark on Ilok’s architecture and cuisine, as well as on the many words of Turkish origin that have remained in use to date. Once Ilok was liberated from the Ottoman rule in 1787, an important role in its restoration and general development was played by the Italian Odescalchi family, who not only restored Nicholas of Ilok’s demolished medieval manor, but also extended his original wine cellar underneath it. The Odescalchis also created a large park that has become a trademark of the charm of Ilok. During the reign of the Odescalchi family, Ilok experienced strong growth architecturally, economically and culturally. Besides the Odescalchi Manor, which today houses the Ilok Municipal Museum, the particularly interesting and widely known old Gothic church dedicated to the patron saint of Ilok, St. John Capistran, with a monastery is well worth a visit. Of course, a visit to the famous old wine cellar underneath the Odescalchi Manor, which has a centuries-old tradition and is a synonym of sorts for Ilok, is an absolute must.

The origins of Ilok’s viticulture and winemaking tradition date back to the Roman emperor Probus, who, reportedly, imported quality varieties of grapes from Greece.

Already back then, wine makers realised that the region’s quality soil and the large number of sunny days during the year facilitate the production of high quality wines. The tradition of wine production was continued by Nicholas of Ilok, who built a wine cellar underneath his manor. The Odescalchi family further contributed to the upgrade of Ilok’s grape-growing and winemaking practices by continually expanding both the vineyards and Nicholas of Ilok’s old cellar, which is a special, must-see attraction. You’ll be amazed by its architecture from the 15th and 18th centuries, its barrels made of the famous Slavonian oak wood and huge amounts of various prized wines grown in and around Ilok. Of course, Ilok’s famous Traminac − a wine of a uniquely floral, aromatic and exotic flavour − holds a special place amongst the rest of the wines.

Wine connoisseurs and wine lovers say that, after as little as a single tasting, you won’t ever forget the sumptuous, indulgent and highly specific flavour of this special wine of an unusual and intoxicating aroma, which makes Traminac one of the world’s rarest and most special wines. Late harvest Traminac is even more special − it’s a true rhapsody of a richness of taste and a priceless royal experience!

The fact that Traminac has been regularly served at the residence of Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom, and this for decades, speaks volumes about how particularly prized this wine is. Moreover, for her 1953 coronation ceremony, 11,000 bottles of high quality, archive Traminac were ordered. Whilst celebrating her 90th birthday, Queen Elizabeth II reportedly said that one of the things that she owed her longevity to was, amongst other things, a glass of Traminac every day at lunch. The UK’s Royal Court has almost regularly been ordering archive Traminac, and so guests attending the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton also enjoyed this royal Traminac. Many other notables and wine lovers have also been opting for Ilok’s irresistible Traminac to mark special occasions. Of course, besides Traminac, Ilok also boasts other widely known varieties of wine, such as Graševina, Pinot Gris, Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Frankovka and other well-matched blends of different wines.

Adjacent to Ilok’s old wine cellar, there’s a tasting room and a beautifully designed and decorated restaurant that serves great local

specialities, including the famous Slavonian kulen sausage protected as an original Croatian product on the EU market. In the Stari Podrum restaurant of Iločki Podrumi, make sure you also try freshwater fish, such as catfish, carp, pike, perch and other fresh fish caught in the Danube and its many tributaries near Ilok. You should also try the famous traditional freshwater fish stew called fiš paprikaš, which is a real treat even for the most discerning of palates. You’ll also surely enjoy the region’s traditional meat specialities, with Ilok’s different types of excellent wines complementing them beautifully − a complete and unforgettable dining experience. To make your experience even more enjoyable and perfect, after lunch take a walk from Ilok’s Upper Town to its Lower Town. While strolling along a magnificent walkway lined with plane trees, you’ll surely enjoy the stunning view of the Upper Town stretching before you, its historic walls, the Church and Monastery of St. John Capistran, and the Odescalchi Manor. Should you decide to stroll along the Danube, Ilok boasts a romantic riverside promenade, where you’ll get to enjoy this beautiful river and its stunning greenery. Johann Strauss II and his waltzes may spring to mind as he too couldn’t resist the magic and beauty of Europe’s famous river. The Danube has been connecting and bringing so many peoples together throughout its history. The sunset on the Danube is particularly impressive.

We also recommend that you visit the nearby Šarengrad, a traditional fishing village on the Danube, the village of Bapska, the Mahovo Mammoth Valley with giant straw sculptures along the Vukovar-Ilok road, and the famous Vučedol Culture Museum exhibiting a valuable archaeological collection of items dating back to the time of the Vučedol Culture, including the famous Vučedol Dove.

When should you visit? Ilok and its surroundings are recommended at any season.

In the winter, you’ll be captivated by a snowy idyll and the view of the frozen Danube, you’ll surely enjoy winter walks around town and its surroundings, or you may decide to treat yourself to a romantic sleigh ride drawn by Slavonia’s famous Lipizzaner horses.

In the spring, you’ll be delighted by the awakening of nature, the greenery, the flowering of Ilok’s orchards and the sight of people working in its numerous vineyards.

Summer is a time that brings the seduc-

tive swaying of golden-yellow fields of grain, staggeringly beautiful fields of yellow sunflowers, flowering meadows and sweet fruit ripening in orchards and vineyards, already hinting at the quality of grapes and future wine. The Danube also gives you the chance to enjoy the joys of summer, fishing and various sporting activities.

In the autumn, Ilok’s traditional harvests are the biggest attraction and joy for winegrowers, winemakers and their many visitors.

During the harvest season, you’ll surely savour all the varieties of excellent quality grapes, particularly Traminac. Don’t miss out on the unique opportunity to visit Principovac, which is where Traminac is grown, thanks to which wine connoisseurs have − dubbing it the Prince of Principovac − given Traminac a title it deserves. For your experience to be unforgettable and your pleasure complete, be sure to stay at the luxury Principovac Country Estate. Offering high quality accommodation and service, this premium country estate has a famous belvedere at the top of the building offering a spectacular vista of the vineyards, the surroundings of Ilok and even parts of the region of Srijem.

Ilok and its surroundings can never let you down − they can only delight! Particularly the great kindness, benevolence and special charm of the people of this region. This is evidenced by the words of a wine lover and a man who has contributed significantly to the development of viticulture and winemaking in this region, Prof. Nikola Mirošević: − In this environment, beneath the vistas of the Franciscan monastery, this spiritual line of defence, I love experiencing Danubian dawns and dusks, writing an intimate diary of experiences lived alongside these honourable people. (...) For, to them, much like to Strauss, this blue river is a metaphor for an indelible history...

Ilok’s royal Traminac has survived and revels in being a lasting link between the past, the present and the future.

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© A. Miletić

kvarner region tourist board, 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2 t +385 (0)51 272 988, f +385 (0)51 272 909, e kvarner@kvarner.hr “kvarner info - adriatic gate”, t +385 (0)51 623 333, 628 888 f +385 (0)51 623 334, e info@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr

© F. Heuer

© A. Miletić

Visit KVARNER Croatia’s best kept secret

© F. Heuer

© B. Petrić

Diversity is beautiful

© J. Mastrović

© F. Heuer

PRIRODA NATURE

Piše/By _ Zdravko Budimir Fotografije/Photos _ Miha Krofel

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RIS, DRAGOCJENI SIMBOL NAŠE PRIRODNE BAŠTINE THE LYNX, A PRECIOUS SYMBOL OF CROATIA’S NATURAL HERITAGE

M. Krapež, projekt LIFE Lynx / LIFE Lynx Project

Ris je najveća, ali i jedna od najugroženijih europskih mačaka, a u Hrvatskoj rijetka i strogo zaštićena vrsta. S ciljem unosa svježih gena u populaciju risa pokrenut je međunarodni projekt LIFE Lynx, koji je sufinancirala Europska komisija. Karizmatični ris veliko je bogatstvo hrvatske prirodne baštine.

The lynx is Europe’s largest and one of the most endangered wild cats. In Croatia, it’s a rare and strictly protected species. With a view to introducing fresh genes into the lynx population, the international LIFE Lynx project has been launched, which is co-funded by the European Commission. The charismatic lynx is a great treasure of Croatia’s natural heritage.

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01 Zasniježene dinarske šume, stanište risa Snow-covered forests of the Dinaric Alps, the lynx’s habitat 02 Boja krzna risa prilagođena je staništu kako bi ga se što teže opazilo Their fur colour allows lynxes to blend in with their habitat, making them more difficult to spot

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03 Jednom mužjaku risa potreban je teritorij veći od 100 km2 i zato su velika šumska područja ključna za njegov opstanak A single male lynx needs a territory bigger than 100 km2, which is why large forest areas are crucial for the survival of lynxes

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inarsko gorje najveći je krški planinski lanac u Europi i u Hrvatskoj. Zbog prirodnoga bogatstva, ponajprije šuma, na međunarodnoj razini prepoznato je kao jedno od ključnih središta biološke raznolikosti. Hrvatska je jedna od rijetkih europskih zemalja koja je dom triju velikih zvijeri − vuka, medvjeda i risa, koji kao grabežljivci imaju iznimno važnu ulogu u zdravom ekosustavu. Ris obitava na područjima šuma Gorskog kotara, Like i Velebita, a s njim su se u prirodi imali priliku susresti samo rijetki.

U svijetu postoje četiri vrste risova, a u Hrvatskoj je prisutan euroazijski ris (Lynx lynx). Euroazijski ris teritorijalna je vrsta koja živi povučeno i osamljenički, na mirnim staništima koja mu pružaju zaklon

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i hranu. Odrasli mužjaci mogu dosegnuti težinu od 28 kg, a ženke 25 kg. Vanjski je izgled risa specifičan, a ističe se jedinstvenim pjegama (točkama) na krznu i čuperkom crnih dlaka koje rastu na vrhu šiljastih ušiju. Ris najviše lovi srnu, jelena, divokozu, a hvata i manje životinje poput zeca. U prosjeku na dan pojede 1 − 2,5 kg plijena. Populacija risa koju Hrvatska dijeli sa Slovenijom te Bosnom i Hercegovinom veoma je mala i ugrožena. Vrsta je s tih prostora nestala početkom 20. stoljeća kao rezultat prekomjernog lova i gubitka staništa. Nakon više od pola stoljeća bez najveće europske mačke, sedamdesetih godina prošloga stoljeća naseljavanjem šest jedinki s prostora Slovačke u Sloveniju ris je dobio novu

01 Ris je poznat po nečujnom kretanju i šuljanju. Za to su mu ključne velike šape i mogućnost uvlačenja pandži Lynxes are known for moving silently and sneaking, and this thanks to their big paws and retractable claws 02 Mladunče risa ostaje s majkom najčešće 10 mjeseci, tj. do sljedeće sezone parenja The lynx cub stays with its mother for 10 months, i.e. until the next mating season

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šansu da iznova zagospodari dinarskim šumama! Današnja populacija, procijenjena na pedesetak životinja, nastala je razmnožavanjem šest preseljenih risova te je većina jedinki u bliskom srodstvu.

Upravo je s ciljem unosa svježih gena pokrenut međunarodni projekt LIFE Lynx, koji je sufinancirala Europska komisija i kojim se u razdoblju od sedam godina planira naseljavanje 14 jedinki iz Rumunjske i Slovačke u Dinaride. Od 14 jedinki čijim se naseljavanjem unose novi geni u Hrvatsku će biti dovedeno ukupno četiri.

Prvi ris koji je doveden u Hrvatsku zove se Doru, a svoj je dom počeo tražiti u Nacionalnom parku Risnjak, koji sasvim prikladno i nosi naziv prema ovoj veličanstvenoj životinji. Ime Doru na rumunjskom

znači potreban, što ovaj ris za hrvatsku populaciju svakako jest. Njegovo kretanje i aktivnosti istraživači prate fotozamkama i GPS ogrlicom, a prikupljat će se uzorci iz kojih će se izolirati DNK kako bi se utvrdilo je li se naseljena životinja parila te tako prenijela svoje zdrave gene na buduće generacije.

Kao grabežljivac na vrhu prehrambene piramide ris ima značajnu ulogu u održavanju zdravlja ekosustava. Osim zdrave genetike risu je za opstanak bitno osigurati i okruženje u kojem je prepoznat kao dobrodošao i poželjan. Ključ za postizanje ovog cilja jest informiranje javnosti o važnosti risa, suradnja nadležnih institucija, znanstvenika, zaštitara prirode, lovaca, lokalnih zajednica i drugih u njegovu oču-

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Skrovitost risa ključna je sposobnost za njegovo preživljavanje.

Omogućuje mu uspješan lov, ali i skrivanje od neprijatelja, ponajprije čovjeka Their elusiveness is key to the survival of lynxes, enabling them to hunt successfully, but also to hide from the enemy, most notably man

vanju i osiguravanju staništa. Karizmatični ris najskrovitija je od svih životinja planina i veliko bogatstvo hrvatske prirode. Stoga je naša odgovornost očuvati ga za buduće naraštaje.

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he Dinaric Alps are the biggest karst mountain range in Europe and Croatia. Thanks to their natural resources, primarily forests, they’re recognised internationally as one of the key regions of biodiversity. Croatia is one of the few European countries which is home to three large carnivores − the wolf, the bear and the lynx − which, as predators, play an extremely important role in the health of the ecosystem. The lynx lives in the forests of Gorski Kotar, Lika and Velebit, and only a very few have had the chance to encounter it in nature. There are four species of lynx in the world, with Croatia being home to the Eurasian lynx (Lynx lynx). The Eurasian lynx is a territorial species that lives in isolation and seclusion, in peaceful habitats that provide shelter and food. Adult males can reach up to 28 kg and adult females up to 25 kg in weight. The look of the lynx is specific, featuring unique spots on its fur and a tuft of black hair at the tip of its pointed ears. The lynx hunts and feeds on roe deer

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and stags, chamois, and smaller animals such as rabbits. On average, it eats 1-2.5 kg of prey a day. The lynx population that Croatia shares with Slovenia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina is very small and endangered. It disappeared from these regions in the early 20th century as a result of overhunting and loss of habitat. After the largest European wild cat had been extinct for more than fifty years, with the relocation of six lynxes from Slovakia to Slovenia in the 1970s, the lynx was given a new chance to reconquer the forests of the Dinaric Alps!

Today’s population, estimated at about fifty animals, are all the descendants of the six relocated lynxes, and most are closely related. Looking to introduce fresh genes into the lynx population, the international LIFE Lynx project has been launched, which is co-funded by the European Commission, aiming to relocate 14 animals from Romania and Slovakia to the Dinaric Alps over a seven-year period. Out of the 14 animals to be relocated for the purpose introducing fresh genes into the lynx population, a total of four will be relocated to Croatia.

The first lynx that was brought to Croatia is called Doru. It started searching for a home in a national park that bears the very name of this magnificent animal, the Risnjak Na-

tional Park (the lynx is ris in Croatian, which the name of the national park is derived from). The Romanian name Doru translates as the one needed, which is exactly what Doru is for the lynx population in Croatia.

Doru’s movements and activities are monitored by researchers using camera traps and a GPS collar. Also, samples will be collected from which DNA will be isolated to determine whether Doru has mated and so passed on its healthy genes to future lynx generations.

As a predator at the top of the food chain, the lynx plays an important role in maintaining the health of the ecosystem. In addition to healthy genes, the survival of the lynx is also dependent on the environment which recognises it as welcome and desirable.

The key to achieving this goal is informing the public about just how important the lynx is, and collaboration between competent institutions, scientists, nature conservationists, hunters, local communities and others with a view to conserving the species and protecting its habitat. The charismatic lynx is the most secluded of all the mountain animals and a great treasure of Croatia’s natural heritage. It is, accordingly, our responsibility to make sure it survives for future generations.

We know where to find the best real estate!

Discover Luxury properties, a new category on njuskalo.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE

Piše/By _ Anđelka Galić

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VISOVAC DUHOVNOST I KULTURA NA BILOJ STINI SPIRITUALITY AND CULTURE ON BILA STINA Oko 500 predmeta iz samostanske riznice, biblioteke i arhiva nakon mnogih stoljeća prvi će put napustiti Visovac i franjevce da bi na izložbi Visovac: duhovnost i kultura na Biloj Stini jedna od najljepših i najspokojnijih hrvatskih veduta zaživjela pod krovom zagrebačkog Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt.

P. Mofardin

J. Kliska

Some 500 items from the monastery treasury, library and archives left Visovac and the Franciscans for the first time in many centuries. One of the most beautiful and most serene Croatian vedutas came to life at the Visovac: Spirituality and Culture on Bila Stina exhibition set up at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts.

Crkva Gospe Visovačke The Church of Our Lady of Visovac

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01 Portal crkve Gospe Visovačke The portal of the Church of Our Lady of Visovac

P. Mofardin

02 Pročelje crkve Gospe Visovačke i dio samostanskog kompleksa The facade of the Church of Our Lady of Visovac and part of the monastery complex 01

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01 Svetište crkve s oltarima Gospe Visovačke i svetog Križa The sanctuary of the church with the altars of Our Lady of Visovac and of the Holy Cross 02 Raspelo s oltara sv. Križa The Crucifix of the altar of the Holy Cross 03 Anđeo s oltara sv. Križa An angel on the altar of the Holy Cross

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04-05 Orgulje u crkvi Gospe Visovačke The organ at the Church of Our Lady of Visovac

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Samostan Visovac, položen na riječni otok 6 kilometara sjeverno udaljen od prvog slapa Krke, nudi prekrasan prizor. Usred riječnog proširenja nalik jezeru, okružena brdima, rasprostire se zelena oaza, koja očarava ne samo u proljeće […] već i u druga godišnja doba…

(Reinhard E. Petermann) ojmljiv prizor otočića usidrena između obala rijeke Krke, sa samostanom kao povijesnim draguljem smještenim na idiličnu mjestu kojemu nisu naštetili ni vrijeme ni sudbina, bilježi Reinhard E. Petermann u ilustriranu putopisnom vodiču Illustrierter Führer durch Dalmatien (Beč, 1899.) U Petermannovu putopisnom izvješću, kao i drugim opisima Visovca, upečatljiva slika zelena otočića na modroj površini u proširenu koritu

osmanskim osvajanjima pripadnici reda Male braće od bribirskih knezova dobili u posjed Bilu Stinu, gdje su na ostacima napuštenog augustinskoga samostana sagradili novu crkvu i samostan, koji su u svojem posjedu sačuvali do danas. Blago i dragocjenosti prikupljali su gotovo šest stoljeća, a danas se pohranjuju u samostanskoj riznici, knjižnici i arhivu, sa svim vidljivim tragovima vremena i sudbine koju spominje Petermann, tijekom dugih i burnih stoljeća obilježenih tuđinskom vlašću, osvajačkim ratovima, na prostoru krhkih granica, na kojemu su ispisivale stranice mjesne i hrvatske povijesti − duhovne, kulturne i identitetske.

Blago riznice franjevačkog samostana Gospe od Milosti na Visovcu prvi će se put predstaviti javnosti na izložbi Visovac: duhovnost i kultura na Biloj Stini. Izložba

krške ljepotice zastrla je pogled na stoljećima prikupljanu i čuvanu baštinu koja se naselila u tom čarobnom krajoliku. Na Biloj Stini, kako se ovaj otočić povijesno nazivao, utkale su se brojne niti kojima se stoljećima prenosio duh europskoga kulturnog ozračja i ispreplele s duhom autentičnosti primjerenim samostanima u povijesnim okolnostima koje su prostorno i vremenski bile vrlo udaljene od središta europske kulture i umjetnosti. Otočke će zbirke i dugo poslije Petermannova vodiča velikim dijelom ostati zakrivene od pogleda nadahnutih putopisaca, šire javnosti, ali i stručnjaka.

Visovac se kao locus franciscanus u pisanim izvorima spominje u 15. stoljeću, nakon što su povlačeći se pred

otvorena u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt krajem studenog rezultat je trogodišnjeg rada velikog tima vrsnih stručnjaka. Jedinstven i golem pothvat obnove baštine kroz složene konzervatorsko-restauratorske radove na građi iz crkve Gospe Visovačke i samostanskih zbirki, na kojemu su bile angažirane restauratorske radionice MUO-a i Hrvatskog restauratorskog zavoda s područnim odjelima u Splitu, Zadru i Dubrovniku kao i brojni vanjski suradnici, ostvaren je uz svesrdnu financijsku potporu Gradskog ureda za kulturu grada Zagreba i Odjela za baštinu Ministarstva kulture. Ovaj interdisciplinarni izložbeni i nakladnički projekt podrazumijevao je sinergiju tima restauratora, preparatora, konzervatora i fotografa od Beča do

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01 Relikvijar s prikazom Navještenja, Betlehem, 1808.

A reliquary with the image of the Annunciation, Bethlehem, 1808 02 Antifonarij An antiphonary

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Dubrovnika s kustosima, povjesničarima umjetnosti, povjesničarima, teolozima, znanstvenicima s Filozofskih fakulteta u Zagrebu i Splitu, filolozima, arhitektima, muzikolozima s Odjela za povijest hrvatske glazbe u HAZU-u, Umjetničke akademije u Splitu i dr.

Uz značenje Visovca, viđena tradicionalno kroz duhovnu i vjersku dimenziju − kao svetišta u Šibenskoj biskupiji i mjesta hodočašća Gospi Visovačkoj, izložba i prateća monografija predstavit će Gospin otočić u njegovu specifičnom okruženju i ukupnosti njegova značenja, pozicionirajući ga u povijesnoj optici kroz raskoš obnovljenih predmeta iz samostanske riznice, posvjedočujući ulogu franjevaca kao njezinih marnih sakupljača, naručitelja, stvaralaca i čuvara. Za percepciju Visovca kao odgojnog, prosvjetnog, kulturnog i obrazovnog središta važna je činjenica odabira visovačkog samostana za kuću novicijata u 16. stoljeću, kao intelektualnog, obrazovnog i kulturnog središta na kojemu su kao profesori djelovali istaknuti predstavnici reda Male braće, koji su ondje pisali teološka, filozofska, leksikografska i povijesna djela, a njegovala se i stvarala pisana i glazbena kultura.

U prigodi velike izložbe u MUO-u većina od oko 500 predmeta iz samostanske riznice, biblioteke i arhiva nakon mnogih stoljeća prvi će put napustiti Visovac i franjevce da bi na izložbi Visovac: duhovnost i kultura na Biloj Stini jedna od najljepših i najspokojnijih hrvatskih veduta zaživjela pod krovom MUO-a kao središnje nacionalne baštinske institucije, kroz obnovljene najreprezentativnije predmete iz svojih zbirki − slika, skulptura, liturgijskog posuđa, devocionalija, liturgijskoga ruha, zavjetnih darova, knjižne, arhivske i glazbene građe. Predstavljeni su kao prepoznatljive i zaokružene cjeline, u punini svojega povijesnog značenja − vjerskog i duhovnog, kulturnog i umjetničkog, baštinskog i identitetskog. Sve se to temelji na istraživanjima kojima su obrađeni i predstavljeni kao protagonisti visovačke, ali i šire, hrvatske povijesti, i što je još važnije, na naporu uloženu u obnovu umjetnina kao i skrb vezanu za njihovu buduću sudbinu na Visovcu.

U zahtjevnim okolnostima rada u otočkom okruženju te kroz dugotrajni rad na projektu, Visovac se potvrdio kao mjesto susreta i jedno od mitskih mjesta u hrvatskoj povijesti, a fra Božo Duvnjak istaknuo se kao najzauzetiji gvardijan na obnovi Visovca u novijoj povijesti. Izložba blaga riznice franjevačkog samostana Gospe od Milosti na Visovcu prvi je veliki baštinski projekt Muzeja koji se etablirao nizom velikih kulturoloških izložbi te ujedno najveći projekt MUO-a u 2019. godini.

The Visovac Monastery, situated on a river island 6 kilometres north of the first waterfall on the Krka River, offers a stunning vista. In the midst of a lake-like widening in the river, surrounded by hills, there spreads a green oasis, which enchants you not only in spring [...] but also in the other seasons... (Reinhard E. Petermann)

T

his is an excerpt from Reinhard E. Petermann’s illustrated travel guide Illustrierter Führer durch Dalmatien (Vienna, 1899) describing the breath-taking sight of an islet anchored in the Krka River with a monastery on it, a historical gem situated in an idyllic landscape that hasn’t been harmed either by time or by destiny.

In Petermann’s travel guide and in other descriptions of Visovac, the impressive image of a green islet on the blue water in the widened riverbed of this karst beauty

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01 Petar Knežević, Epistole i Evanđelja, Venecija, 1777.

Petar Knežević, The Epistles and the Gospels, Venice, 1777 02 Relikvijar s likom Bogorodice, poslije 1589.

A reliquary with the image of the Madonna, post-1589 03 Monstranca, kraj 19./poč. 20. st.

A monstrance, the end of the 19th/beginning of the 20th c.

02

remained in their possession to this day.

They’ve been collecting treasures and valuables for almost six centuries, which are today kept in the monastery treasury, library and archives, with all the visible traces of time and destiny mentioned by Petermann, during the long and turbulent centuries marked by foreign rule, conquests and wars, in a region of fragile borders, where the pages of local and Croatian spiritual, cultural and identity history have been written.

The treasures of the Franciscan Monastery of Our Lady of Mercy in Visovac are presented to the public for the first time at the Visovac: Spirituality and Culture on Bila Stina exhibition. It opened at the Museum of Arts and Crafts at the end of November, and is the result of three years of work done by a large team of top experts. This unique and ambitious project on conserving the heritage items from the Church of Our Lady of Visovac and the monastery collections through complex conservation

and restoration works − which involved the restoration workshops of the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Croatian Conservation Institute and its regional departments in Split, Zadar and Dubrovnik, and many external associates − was financially supported by the Zagreb City Office for Culture and the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia. This interdisciplinary exhibition and publishing project implied a synergy developing between the teams of restorers, preparers, conservators and photographers from Vienna to Dubrovnik with curators, art historians, historians, theologians, scholars from the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences in both Zagreb and Split, philologists, architects, musicologists from the Division for the History of Croatian Music of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the Arts Academy in Split, etc.

Besides the importance of Visovac, seen traditionally through the spiritual and religious dimension − as a sanctuary in the Roman Catholic Diocese of Šibenik and a place of pilgrimage to Our Lady of Visovac − the exhibition and accompanying monograph presents the islet of Our Lady in its specific environment and totality of meaning, positioning it historically through the splendour of restored items from the monastery’s treasury, and testifying to the role of the Franciscans as diligent collectors, commissioners, creators and keepers of these treasures. The fact that the Visovac monastery was chosen to house novitiates in the 16th century is important for our understanding of Visovac as a centre of education, training and culture. It became an intellectual, educational and cultural centre where prominent representatives of

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P. Mofardin

01

P. Mofardin

obscured the view of a heritage that’s been collected for centuries and kept in this magical landscape. Bila Stina − or White Rock in English translation, which is what the island has been called throughout history − has been woven through by many threads carrying the spirit of the European cultural milieu for centuries, and interwoven with the spirit of authenticity appropriate to monasteries in historical circumstances that were both spatially and temporally very far from the centre of European culture and art. The island’s collections continued to be largely hidden from view to inspired travel writers, the general public and experts alike even long after Petermann’s travel guide.

Visovac was mentioned in written sources as a locus franciscanus in the 15th century.

After retreating before the Ottoman army, members of the Order of Friars Minor were given Bila Stina by the counts of Bribir, where they built a new church and monastery on the remains of an abandoned Augustinian monastery, and which has

J. Kliska

V. Benović

04 Kalež, 18. st.

A chalice, 18th c.

04

J. Kliska

Skrovita visovačka Bogorodica s Djetetom s anđelima Zidna slika Bogorodica s Djetetom s anđelima u apsidi visovačke crkve djelo je neznanoga dalmatinskoga kasnogotičkog slikara. Danas je zaklonjena mramornim oltarom iz 18. st. posvećenim Gospi Visovačkoj.

S obzirom na njezin smještaj, veličinu i figuralni sadržaj, moguće ju je povezati s prvotnom franjevačkom crkvom naslijeđenom od augustinaca prije 1469. godine. Konzervatorsko-restauratorska istraživanja provedena u okviru izložbenoga projekta pokazala su da je način izvedbe zidne slike u skladu s praksom srednjovjekovnih slikara, a iako je pripremna faza oslika bila temeljito provedena, razlozi nedovršenosti freske i njezin izvorni izgled, ali i sudbina tijekom stoljeća postojanja u najstarijem dijelu visovačke crkve, još su uvijek nepoznanica.

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exhibition of the treasures of the Franciscan Monastery of Our Lady of Mercy in Visovac is the first major heritage project of the Museum of Arts and Crafts which has already established itself with a series of major culture-related exhibitions and is at the same time the museum’s biggest project in 2019.

V. Benović

the Order of the Friars Minor − who wrote theological, philosophical, lexicographic and historical works, and who cultivated the skills and arts of writing and music − taught as professors.

For the purposes of the exhibition at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, most of the approximately 500 items from the monastery treasury, library and archives left Visovac and the Franciscans for the first time in many centuries. One of the most beautiful and most serene Croatian vedutas came to life at the Visovac: Spirituality and Culture on Bila Stina exhibition set up at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts, Croatia’s leading national heritage institution, with the most representative items from its collections restored − paintings, sculptures, liturgical vessels, devotional objects, vestments, votive offerings, books, archival materials and music. They are presented as recognisable and rounded units, in the fullness of their historical significance − religious and spiritual, cultural and artistic, as heritage and as identity. Setting up the exhibition was based on research that has treated and presented the exhibition items as protagonists in the history of not only Visovac, but also Croatia, and, more importantly, on the efforts put into restoring the

Visovac’s hidden Blessed Virgin Mary and Child with Angels The Blessed Virgin Mary and Child with Angels fresco in the apse of the Church of Our Lady of Visovac is the work of an anonymous Dalmatian late Gothic painter. Today, it’s hidden from view behind a marble altar from the 18th century dedicated to Our Lady of Visovac. Given its location, size and figurative content, it can be linked to the original Franciscan church which the Franciscans inherited from the Augustinian (pre-1469). The conservation and restoration research carried out as part of the exhibition project showed that the fresco technique used is the one practised by medieval painters.

The research also showed that, although the preparatory work for the fresco was fully completed, the reasons for the fresco’s incompleteness and original appearance − as well as its fate during the centuries of its existence in the oldest part of the church in Visovac − remain unknown.

Sv. Franjo Asiški, Bernardo Strozzi, 17. st.

St. Francis of Assisi, Bernardo Strozzi, 17th c.

works of art, and the care that their future destiny in Visovac will require.

Given the challenging circumstances of working in an island environment and the longevity of the project, Visovac has established itself as a meeting place and one of the mythical places of Croatian history, with Friar Božo Duvnjak having distinguished himself as the most dedicated abbot in the restoration of Visovac in recent history. The

Želite li posjetiti čarobni Visovac, splitska zračna luka najbliža je tom bajkovitom otočiću. U zimskom redu letenja Split je izravno povezan s europskim gradovima Frankfurtom, Münchenom i Rimom, a sa Zagrebom s nekoliko dnevnih letova (ponedjeljkom Zagreb i Split povezani su s četiri leta, utorkom s tri, srijedom s dva, četvrtkom s pet te petkom, subotom i nedjeljom s tri leta).

Should you wish to visit magical Visovac, Split’s airport is closest to this fairy-tale island. During the winter timetable, Split is connected directly with Frankfurt, Munich and Rome, and with Zagreb with several daily flights (on Mondays Zagreb and Split are connected with four flights, on Tuesdays with three, on Wednesdays with two, on Thursdays with five, and on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays with three flights). croatiaairlines.com _ m.croatiaairlines.com

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MODA FASHION

Piše/By _ Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografije/Photos _ Franjo Matković i/and Senja Vild

Njihov je dizajn smislen, nosiv, u prirodnim tonovima, no opet ima elegantne detalje poput posebnih naramenica ili plisea koji dinamizira siluetu.

Their design is meaningful, wearable, in natural hues, yet has elegant details, such as special shoulder straps or pleats that dynamise the silhouette.

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L

es Émaux jedan je od novijih brendova na hrvatskoj modnoj sceni, no ubrzo su primijećeni zbog dobrih formi, skladnog dizajna, ali i odličnih vizuala za kampanje. Autori brenda su Nino Sablić iz Ike pored Opatije i Kristijan Žakić iz Cernika pored Nove Gradiške.

Iako obojica kreativci u modnome smislu, jedan od njih ujedno je i glazbenik!

Naime, Kristijan je diplomirao glazbu na Akademiji za umjetnost i kulturu u Osijeku, a Nino je završio Modni dizajn na zagrebačkom Tekstilno-tehnološkom fakultetu.

Njihova karijera započela je prije otprilike dvije godine, kad su se dečki odvažili na zajednički pothvat, čim su shvatili da imaju slične stilske ideje i vizije: − Počevši suradnju u istoj kompaniji, uvidjeli smo kako imamo zajedničke interese i dodirne točke u pogledu stila i mode te zaključili kako bismo i sami mogli stvoriti brend u kojemu ćemo obojica aktivno i kreativno sudjelovati − ispričao nam je Nino.

Od samih početaka vodi ih specifična ideja o ženi koja bi nosila njihove kreacije: − Ona je elegantna, snažna, senzualna i otmjena − priča Kristijan. Ime Les Émaux dobili su igrom slova i tako je nastao brend koji podsjeća na nešto francusko i šik! A šik definitivno jesu jer kod njih je vizija pročišćena, nemamo dojam da su početnici ili neiskusni…

Važno je biti praktična, poručuju njihove kreacije, namijenjene ženi koja ne želi robi biti rob. Naravno, tu su i prirodne tkanine: − Koristimo potpuno čiste materijale pa nam je teže naći ono što tražimo.

Sami izrađuju sve − od crteža do finalnog proizvoda, no imaju velike planove, na primjer finalizirati internetsku prodaju te se proširiti i izvan granica Hrvatske. − Za sada lokaciju brenda dijelimo na dva stana u kojima i živimo, u jednom šijemo.

Za sada nemamo veći tim, nego kompletnu izradu obavljamo sami. Doduše, uz puno radno vrijeme i sve popratne obaveze za pojedine stvari jednostavno nemamo vremena pa nam tu uskače krojačica koja obavlja završne finese.

Bliski planovi uključuju i otvaranje showrooma, u kojemu će Kristijan i Nino nuditi sve ono što treba jednoj modernoj, elegantnoj i jednostavnoj ženi.

A

lthough Les Émaux is a newer brand on the Croatian fashion scene, it’s already applauded for its good cuts, balanced design and brilliant campaign visuals. The brand’s fashion designers are Nino Sablić from Ika near Opatija and Kristijan Žakić from Cernik near Nova Gradiška. Although they’re both creative fashion-wise, one is also a musician.

More specifically, Kristijan graduated from Osijek’s Academy of Arts and Culture, whi-

Karirano je spoj tradicije, koloristiÄ?koga sklada, ali i Ĺženstvenosti Tartan is a combination of tradition, colour harmony and femininity

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Bijela i žuta često su smjele i atraktivne, naročito na fluidnoj haljini i sakou širokih ramena White and yellow are often bold and attractive, particularly on a flowing dress and a wideshouldered jacket

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Kreativna silueta donosi stilski zanimljiv spoj dviju kontrastnih tekstura, boja i ploha The creative silhouette produces a stylistically interesting blend of two contrasting textures, colours and garment surfaces

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Ponekad je sako haljina, a hlače i minica postaju hibridni odjevni predmet Sometimes a jacket is also a dress, and trousers and a miniskirt a hybrid garment

le Nino graduated in fashion design from Zagreb’s Faculty of Textile Technology.

Their careers took off about two years ago, when the two guys formed a joint venture, having realised that they had similar ideas about style and similar visions: − Whilst collaborating in the same company, we realised that we have common interests and that we agree in terms of style and fashion, and so we decided that we could indeed create a brand which we’ll be involved in actively and creatively − Nino tells us.

Since their very beginnings, they’ve been guided by a specific idea of a woman who would wear their creations: − She’s elegant, strong, sensual and refined − says Kristijan. As far as the name of the brand is concerned, they simply played with letters and came up with Les Émaux, and so a brand was created reminiscent of something French and chic. And they’re definitely chic because their vision is refined, they’re no beginners, nor amateurs...

It’s important to be practical, which is what their creations communicate, creations intended for women who do not want to be slaves to fashion. Naturally, they use only natural fabrics: − We use only pure materials, so it’s more difficult for us to find what we’re looking for. We used to buy materials in Croatia, but now we buy materials in Italy and Slovenia − Nino reveals.

They make everything themselves, from the initial sketch to the final product, and have big plans, such as setting up an online shop and expanding their business beyond the borders of Croatia. − At present, the brand’s located at two addresses, the flats we live in, but we sew in only one. For the time being, our team comprises only the two of us, we do everything by ourselves. Admittedly, though, given that this is a full-time job, and we have to attend to many different duties and obligations, we simply don’t have time for certain things, so we have a tailor who adds the finishing touches.

Their short-term plans include the opening of a showroom, where Kristijan and Nino would be offering everything that a modern, elegant and simple woman needs.

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ZAGREB: Ilica 5 (Oktogon), Kaptol 13, Avenue Mall, Arena Centar, Westgate Ӏ RIJEKA: Korzo 3 Ӏ VARAŽDIN: Trg Kralja Tomislava 2 Ӏ OSIJEK: Trg Ante Starčevića 5 Ӏ ZADAR: Jurja Barakovića 5 (palača Cedulin) Ӏ SPLIT: Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), Mihovilova Širina 7 (Voćni trg) Ӏ DUBROVNIK: Pred dvorom 2 Ӏ shop online — croata.hr, @croatalife

Sculptor Hrvoje Dumančić is wearing CROATA shirt.

A PICTURE OF A HORSE — THE FIRST DRAWING I HAVE EVER MADE.

I find inspiration in everything around me. I observe and, in no time, I am creating my own vision of the world which I transform into sculptures. I try to turn all that is bad and negative into something good.

Pure lines, monochromatic colours, impressive texture, harmony... Purity and whiteness which are strongly reflected in the white shirt, the wordless harmony between the rider and his horse: they are all a form of artistic expression, a celebration of life...

Even today horses are a source of strength and sensibility for me. I think they represent a good balance every person should have: to be able to feel empathy, but at the same time strength and toughness. My life, love, family and heritage: they are all blended into the sculptures I create.

Izdvojili smo deset zanimljivosti u našim odredištima koje vam želimo preporučiti u zimskom razdoblju We’ve singled out ten highlights that we’re recommending in the winter period

TOP 10 gradova cities

Dublin − New ageri, povjesničari i svi zaljubljenici u pretpovijesnu mistiku zimi pohode Newgrange nedaleko od Dublina, čudesni poganski grob ili sakralni objekt nalik na leteći tanjur spušten na zeleno polje, stariji od egipatskih piramida i Stonehengea. Lutrijom se biraju oni koji će svjedočiti kako se na zimski solsticij sunce diže točno usklađeno s ulazom u Newgrange.

Dublin − In winter, new agers, historians and all who’re in love with prehistoric mysticism rush to Newgrange near Dublin, a prodigious pagan passage tomb or sacral site that looks like a flying saucer that had landed in a green field, which is older than the Egyptian pyramids and Stonehenge. It’s by lottery that you can win a place inside the chamber at Newgrange to witness the Winter Solstice sunrise.

Odabrala/Selection _ Nada Mirković Ilustracije/Illustrations _ Dinko Kumanović

London − Nekad sumnjivi, oronuli Soho na West Endu, labirint ulica u kojem se još osjeća duh dickensovskoga Londona, postao je živo središte grada koje privlači zaljubljenike u kazalište, foodieje, lokalne živopisne ekscentrike i sve one koji vole sjediti u kavani i upijati život grada.

London − The once shady and dilapidated Soho of the West End, a network of streets where the spirit of Dickens’ London is still felt, has become a vibrant city centre that has been attracting theatre lovers, foodies, local colourful eccentrics and anyone who enjoys sitting in a cafe and soaking up the local atmosphere.

Dublin 01

02 London

Bruxelles − Zima je kao stvorena za mirisnu vruću čokoladu, a advent za čokoladu općenito. Galerie Royales Saint-Hubert, zatvorene šoping arkade iz sredine 19. stoljeća, nude izvanredan izbor najboljih belgijskih čokolada na jednome mjestu.

Svakako posjetiti centar dizajnerskih čokolada Marcolini, u kojem su praline izložene poput nakita u draguljarnici.

Brussels − Winter is perfect for delicious hot chocolate, and Christmas and the holiday season for chocolate in general. The Royal Gallery of Saint Hubert, an indoor mid-19th century shopping arcade, offers a great choice of the best Belgian chocolates in one place. Make sure you visit Marcolini, a luxury chocolatier, whose pralines are displayed like jewellery in a jewellery store.

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Paris 04 Pariz − je uvijek odlična ideja, posebno u vrijeme kada izlozi velikih robnih kuća postaju galerije posvećene božićnoj čaroliji, no ove zime iznimno jer Pariz u Louvreu obilježava 500 godina od smrti Leonarda da Vincija dosad najvećom izložbom ovoga talijanskog majstora.

Paris − Paris is always a great idea, particularly when the shopwindows of big department stores turn into galleries dedicated to the magic of Christmas. But this winter is even more exceptional − Paris is marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci at the Louvre with the biggest ever exhibition of the work of this Italian master.

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Barcelona − U najelegantnijoj aveniji Passeig de Gràcia nalazi se El Nacional, restoranska robna kuća uređena u raskošnome katalonskom stilu Art Nouveau, s tapas barom u sredini, gdje se mora probati jamón ibérico, najcjenjeniji pršut na svijetu, uz lokalni pjenušac cavu.

Barcelona − Barcelona’s most elegant avenue, Passeig de Gràcia, hides El Nacional, a restaurant department store, so to speak, decorated in the lavish Catalan Art Nouveau style, with a tapas bar in the middle, where trying jamón ibérico, the most prized cured ham in the world, complemented by a glass of a local Cava champagne, is an absolute must!

Amsterdam − A'DAM Toren izvanredan je primjer suvremene prenamjene arhitektonskog simbola sedamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća: lučka poslovna zgrada proslavljenoga lokalnog arhitekta Arthura Staala postala je središte društvenog života grada (A'DAM je skraćenica za Amsterdam Dance and Music), a terasa na vrhu nudi najbolji pogled na grad i divovske ljuljačke za adrenalinske ovisnike.

Amsterdam − A’DAM Tower is a brilliant example of a contemporary conversion of an architectural gem from the 1970s: the port office building designed by the celebrated local architect Arthur Staal has been converted into Amsterdam’s centre of social life (A’DAM is short for Amsterdam Dance and Music), with the terrace at the top offering the best view of the city and featuring giant swings for adrenaline junkies.

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Kopenhagen − Skijanje u gradu u nizini, na nadmorskoj visini u razini mora? Samo u ovome gradu, koji je krov spalionice smeća pretvorio u travnatu padinu dugu gotovo 500 metara, CopenHill. Spalionica je istodobno i elektrana koja proizvodi struju za 160.000 domova, a odnedavno i skijalište u zemlji u kojoj nema prirodnih skijaških terena.

Copenhagen − Skiing in an urban lowland landscape at sea level? This you can do only in Copenhagen, which turned the rooftop of a waste incinerator into a grassy slope nearly 500 metres long called CopenHill. The incinerator is a waste-to-energy power plant that produces electricity for 160,000 homes and, at the same time, a ski slope, and this in a country with no natural ski slopes.

Frankfurt − Prošle godine uz veliku je pompu obnovljen Novi Stari grad, staro središte Frankfurta srušeno u Drugome svjetskom ratu. Uz rekonstrukcije trgova, fontana i povijesnih zgrada, čak i onih s vanjskim drvenim gredama, između trga Römerberg i katedrale podignute su i savršeno uklopljene manje interpolacije, izvanredan primjer kako se grad oživljava, a ne narušava novim.

Frankfurt − Last year saw, with much fanfare, the completion of the reconstruction of the New Frankfurt Old Town, which had been demolished in World War II. Besides reconstructing its squares, fountains and historic buildings, including all timber-framed structures, between the Römerberg Square and the Frankfurt Cathedral new architectural solutions were erected and blended in perfectly ∑ a brilliant example of how something modern doesn’t distort a city, but rather revives it.

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Beč − Judenplatz je ljupki mali trg u Innere Stadtu, središnjoj gradskoj jezgri, savršen uvod za upoznavanje drevnog Beča. Ovdje se nalazi središnji spomenik žrtvama holokausta, zanimljivi rad britanske umjetnice Rachel Whiteread, a ispod staklenog poda mogu se vidjeti pronađeni ostaci sinagoge iz srednjeg vijeka, jedne od najvećih u Europi.

Vienna − Judenplatz is a lovely little square in Vienna’s Innere Stadt, the city centre, a perfect starting point for the exploration of old Vienna. This is where the Judenplatz Holocaust Memorial is, an interesting work by British artist Rachel Whiteread. Beneath the glass floor, there are the remains of a synagogue from the Middle Ages, one of the biggest in Europe.

Rim − Betlehemska štalica, odnosno božićne jaslice, treba vidjeti u Rimu, gdje tradicija izrade prizora rođenja Isusova traje, po vjerovanju, još od vremena sv. Franje Asiškoga. Sve zaljubljenike u čaroliju Božića oduševit će jaslice na Trgu svetog Petra ili u jednoj od najstarijih bazilika u Rimu Santa Maria u četvrti Trastevere.

Rome − Seeing the Nativity Scene in Rome is a must, where the tradition of producing nativity scenes is believed to have been upheld since the time of St. Francis of Assisi. All those in love with the magic of Christmas will be delighted by the Nativity Scene at St. Peter’s Square or at the Basilica of Santa Maria in the Trastevere district, one of Rome’s oldest basilicas.

KULTURA CULTURE

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THE VIENNA STATE OPERA AND CROATIANS

Piše/By _ Domagoj Marić Fotografije/Photos _ Eduard Hanna

Wiener Staatoper/Mihael Pöhn

Povod za ovo kratko putovanje u Beč neka bude 150. obljetnica Bečke državne opere, jedne od najvećih svjetskih opernih kuća, na čijoj su pozornici nastupali i brojni Hrvati. U ovaj prekrasni grad na Dunavu, osobito čaroban zimi kada zablista u adventskome, božićnome i novogodišnjem ugođaju, vodi nas diplomat i publicist Domagoj Marić, bivši kulturni ataše u Veleposlanstvu Republike Hrvatske u Austriji.

The reason why we’re taking you on a short trip to Vienna is the 150th anniversary of the Vienna State Opera, one of the world’s greatest opera houses, where many Croatian opera singers have performed as well. We’re taken to this stunning city on the Danube − which is particularly magical in winter when it exudes the atmosphere of Advent, Christmas and New Year’s − by diplomat, writer and former cultural attaché at the Embassy of the Republic of Croatia in Austria, Domagoj Marić.

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01 Fontana ispred bečke opere The fountain outside the Vienna State Opera 02 Raskošna unutrašnjost bečke opere s jednim od stubišta The magnificent interior of the Vienna State Opera with one of its staircasese

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03 Impozantno zdanje Bečke državne opere stare 150 godina The impressive 150-year-old edifice of the Vienna State Opera

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01 Strop opere čija je renovacija završena 1955., nakon što su originalni strop i veći dio gledališta stradali u bombardiranju 1945.

The ceiling of the Vienna State Opera, whose renovation was completed in 1955, after the original ceiling and much of the auditorium had been destroyed in the 1945 bombing of Vienna

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02 Impresivno glavno stubiĹĄte The impressive grand staircase of the Vienna State Opera 03 Carski salon u kojem je Franjo Josip I. provodio stanke za vrijeme predstava povezan s carskom loĹžom The tea salon, where Franz Josef I of Austria would relax in the intervals, connected to the imperial loge

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01-02 Scenski radnici pripremaju kulise za predstavu Stage workers preparing the scenery for a performance

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03 Granica dvaju svjetova opere (onoga ispred i onoga iza pozornice) The interface between the two worlds of opera (the one in front and the one behind the stage)

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Kamena propovjedaonica na katedrali s koje je narodu propovijedao franjevac sveti Ivan Kapistran A stone pulpit at the cathedral from which the Franciscan Saint John Capistrano preached to the people

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ebrojene su i intenzivne povijesne i kulturne veze Hrvatske i Austrije, ali i Zagreba i Beča − gradova u kojima prema mišljenju mnogih na najbolji mogući način možemo doživjeti adventski ugođaj. Hrvatske tragove u Beču naći ćemo gotovo na svakom koraku − od hrvatskoga i dalmatinskog grba na zavjetnom spomeniku kugi na Grabenu, preko nekadašnje zgrade mornarice s grbovima jadranskih gradova do spomen-ploča Boškoviću, Vitezoviću, Strossmayeru, Račkom, Preradoviću, Zajcu, Bersi i mnogim drugima. Hrvatska imena susrest ćemo i u svim važnijim bečkim institucijama: jedan od glavnih savjetnika Marije Terezije bio je Antun Grašalković, bogati

01 Spomenik Presvetog Trojstva (ili Stup kuge) podignut u spomen na umrle u epidemiji kuge koja je poharala Beč 1679. godine. Na spomeniku su i povijesni grbovi Hrvatske, Dalmacije i Bosne The Holy Trinity Column (or the Plague Column) erected in memory of those who died during the Great Plague epidemic in Vienna in 1679. The historic coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Bosnia are also on the monument 02 Spomenik Eugenu Savojskom na Heldenplatzu, pripadniku savojske dinastije i jednom od najuspješnijih vojnih zapovjednika u službi Habsburgovaca A Monument to Prince Eugene of Savoy at the Heroes’ Square (Heldenplatz in German), a member of the Savoy dynasty and one of the most successful military commanders in the service of the Habsburgs 03 Spomen ploče hrvatskom piscu, teologu i političaru Juraju Križaniću i Pavlu Ritteru Vitezoviću, hrvatskom književniku, povjesničaru, jezikoslovcu i nakladniku Commemorative plaques dedicated to Juraj Križanić, a Croatian writer, theologian and politician, and to Pavao Ritter Vitezović, a Croatian writer, historian, linguist and publisher 01

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19. i prve polovice 20. stoljeća bila su itekako poznata. Velika Zinka Kunc u Bečkoj je operi nastupila dva puta 1937. godine, u naslovnim ulogama Aide i Tosce.

Kroz prikaz hrvatskih glazbenika moguće je predstaviti i cijelu povijest opere. Srebrenka Sena Jurinac nastupila je u izvedbi Mozartova Figarovog pira 1. svibnja 1945., kada je ruska vojna uprava netom nakon zauzimanja Beča krajem Drugog svjetskog rata silom htjela pokazati da će grad i u novim uvjetima zadržati svoju opernu tradiciju. Kako je zgrada Državne opere bila razrušena uslijed savezničkih bombardiranja, Figarov pir upriličen je u zgradi Narodne opere, koja ipak nije postala dom središnjega bečkog opernog ansambla do obnove zgrade 1955. Deset godina nakon Drugog svjetskog rata, dok je zgrada Državne opere bila u ruševinama, operna je kuća bila smještena u obližnjem kazalištu Theater an der Wien.

Ni to razdoblje u povijesti bečke opere nije prošlo bez hrvatskih predstavnika.

Od ranih četrdesetih do kasnih pedesetih na bečkim se programima nalazilo ime Tomislava Neralića, velikog vagnerijanca koji je u Beču odigrao cijelu paletu opernih uloga. Neralić je nastupao i za vrijeme bombardiranja Beča pred kraj Drugog svjetskog rata, a u sjećanju su mu ostali bečki odlasci u sklonište. Sopranisticu Dragicu Martinis put je vodio po brojnim svjetskim pozornicama, no s ansamblom Državne opere nastupala je od prosinca 1950. do rujna 1953. Varaždinka Nada Puttar Gold utjelovila je 19. travnja 1952. ulogu Amneris u Verdijevoj Aidi, a uz nju se te večeri na daskama kazališta Theater an der Wien nalazio još jedan Hrvat − osječki baletan Zvonimir Pintar, koji je kao solist bečke opere debitirao 1942. godine. Sena Jurinac i Nada Puttar Gold očarale su bečku publiku izvedbom Verdijeva Don Carla 6. veljače 1963. Nevjerojatan je podatak da je u spomenutoj izvedbi Verdijeve opere sudjelovao i još jedan Hrvat, Zagrepčanin Tugomir Franc, koji je u Bečkoj operi nastupio više od 700 puta. Troje Hrvata u jednoj opernoj izvedbi Bečke državne opere postignuće je koje hrvatska kultura nakon 1963. nije ponovila.

Među našim velikim imenima koja su nastupila u bečkoj operi treba istaknuti i Ružu Pospiš Baldani. Arhiv Državne opere svjedoči da je velika primadona između 1973. i 1987. u Beču gostovala 18 puta.

U razdoblju od 15 godina Pospiš Baldani ostvarila je tri zahtjevne uloge: naslovnu ulogu Bizetove Carmen, ulogu Azucene u Verdijevu Trubaduru i konačno Brangäne u Wagnerovu Tristanu i Izoldi, koju je Pospiš Baldani utjelovila devet puta. Ruža Pospiš Baldani bečku je publiku osvojila i na Gala koncertu održanome u rujnu 1979. povodom otvorenja bečkog UNOCityja. Zavidnu karijeru u Državnoj operi izgradila je i rođena Dalmatinka Biserka Cvejić, koja je šezdesetih i sedamdesetih godina ostvarila više od tristo nastupa.

Sedamdesetih je godina bečka publika pljeskala i Ljiljani Molnar-Talajić, i to najviše nakon izvedbi Verdijevih Aide i Trubadura. I Dunja Vejzović gostovala je u Državnoj operi, a osim Wagnerovih uloga proslavila se i kao Marie u Bergovom Wozzecku. Bečki student Tomislav Mužek ostvario je u sezoni 1999./2000. čak 14 uloga na daskama Bečke državne opere, među kojima se ističu nastupi u Hoffmannovim pričama, Trubaduru, Tosci, Kavaliru s ružom i mnogim drugim operama.

U Bečkoj operi nisu nastupali samo pjevači nego i brojni hrvatski dirigenti.

Zagrebački dirigent Berislav Klobučar, brat skladatelja Anđelka Klobučara, u Državnoj je operi djelovao punih četrdeset godina, ostvarivši više od tisuću nastupa. Arhiv opere svjedoči da je Klobučar ostao zabilježen ponajprije po izvedbama Puccinijevih opera: izvedbom Turandot ravnao je 42 puta, La Boheme 48 puta, Madame Butterfly 51 put, a Toscom čak 84 puta. U povijest Državne opere upisan je i Klobučarev učitelj Lovro Matačić. Čuveni se hrvatski dirigent publici Bečke opere predstavio 86 puta, od predratnog ožujka 1939., kada je dirigirao izvedbom Madame Butterfly, do Wagnerova Letećeg Holandeza u lipnju 1963. Brojnim se izvedbama bečkoj publici predstavio i Nikša Bareza, i to najviše Donizettijevim Ljubavnim napitkom. Vjekoslav Šutej u Državnoj operi dirigirao je 129 puta, posljednji put u travnju 2007., samo dvije godine prije svoje smrti.

No nastupi hrvatskih umjetnika u Bečkoj državnoj operi nisu samo tema koja pripada povijesti. Posljednji angažman nekog hrvatskog pjevača u Državnoj operi bio je debitantski nastup mlade sopranistice Evelin Novak u ulozi Ännchen u Weberovu Strijelcu vilenjaku 28. lipnja 2018.

Vjerujemo da će Evelin uskoro ponovno

Fotografije/Photos (92, 93) _ Cropix

Hrvat podrijetlom iz Bačke, u čijoj se bratislavskoj palači danas nalazi ured slovačkoga predsjednika. U nizu hrvatskih znanstvenika, umjetnika i političara koji su svoje karijere izgradili u Beču posebno mjesto zauzimaju glazbenici koji su nastupali u Bečkoj državnoj operi, središnjoj austrijskoj opernoj kući i jednoj od najvećih u svijetu. Beč ove godine obilježava 150. godišnjicu Državne opere, što je prilika da se podsjetimo naših najvećih imena koja u svojim biografijama s ponosom ističu i bečke nastupe.

U posljednjih 150 godina pozornicom Bečke državne opere prošla je cijela plejada naših glazbenika, od kojih ćemo u članku spomenuti samo najvažnije.

Imena kao što su Ema Pukšec tj. Ilma de Murska, Anka Horvat-Gottlieb, Nikola Zec i Vera Schwarz danas su pomalo zaboravljena, no bečkoj publici druge polovice

01 Evelin Novak 02 Dunja Vejzović 03 Tomislav Mužek 04 Vjekoslav Šutej 05 Ruža Pospiš Baldani 06 Nada Putar Gold 07 Dragica Martinis i/and Berislav Klobučar 08 Biserka Cvejić i/and Ivo Josipović

očarati austrijsku publiku, kao i da će Bečani i njihovi gosti i dalje upoznavati nove generacije hrvatskih umjetnika.

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here are innumerable and intense historical and cultural ties between Croatia and Austria, as well as between Zagreb and Vienna, cities that the atmosphere of Advent can best be experienced in, and this in the opinion of many.

There are Croatian traces in Vienna at almost every corner − from the Croatian and Dalmatian coat of arms on the Plague Column on Graben Street, through the former navy building with the coat of arms of Croatian cities along the Adriatic coast, to commemorative plaques to Bošković, Vitezović, Strossmayer, Rački, Preradović, Zajc, Bersa and many others. You’ll also come across Croatian names in all major Viennese institutions: one of the main advisers to Maria Theresa was Antun Grašalković, a wealthy Croatian born in Bačka, whose palace in Bratislava today houses the office of the President of Slovakia. Amongst great many Croatian scientists, artists and politicians who built their careers in Vienna, musicians who performed at the Vienna State Opera,

Austria’s central and one of the world’s greatest opera houses, are given a special place. The Vienna State Opera is marking its 150th anniversary this year, which is a great opportunity to remind ourselves of Croatia’s biggest names in opera, whose biographies boast performances in Vienna as well.

In the last 150 years, the Vienna State Opera has hosted a multitude of Croatian musicians, of whom we’ll single out only the most important. Today’s opera lovers are unfamiliar with such names as Ema Pukšec (also known as Ilma de Murska), Anka Horvat-Gottlieb, Nikola Zec and Vera Schwarz, unlike Viennese audiences of the second half of the 19th and the first half of the 20th century who knew them rather well. The great Zinka Kunc performed twice at the Vienna State Opera in 1937, and this in the lead roles of Aida and Tosca.

A presentation of Croatian opera singers who performed in Vienna could indeed double as a presentation of the entire

history of Vienna’s opera scene. Srebrenka Sena Jurinac performed Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro on 1st May 1945, when the Russian military administration wanted to demonstrate by force − shortly after having occupied Vienna at the end of World War II − that the city would maintain its operatic tradition even under such new circumstances. Given that the building of the State Opera was destroyed

by Allied bombing, The Marriage of Figaro was staged at the People’s Opera House, which didn’t become the home of Vienna’s central opera ensemble until the building was restored in 1955. Ten years after World War II, while the State Opera building was in ruins, the opera ensemble was housed in the nearby Theater an der Wien. Not even this period in the history of Vienna’s opera could pass by without Croatian opera singers. Between the early 1940s and the late 1950s, Vienna’s opera repertoires featured the name of Tomislav Neralić, a great Wagnerian who played a whole array of opera

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Izlog trgovine božićnim ukrasima A shop window with Christmas decorations

roles in Vienna. Neralić also performed during the bombing of Vienna near the end of World War II, and he remembers needing to hide in Vienna’s bomb shelters. The life path of Dragica Martinis, a soprano, took her to many world stages, and so between December 1950 and September 1953 she performed with the Vienna State Opera ensemble. The Varaždin-born Nada Puttar Gold played the role of Amneris in Verdi’s Aida on 19th April 1952, alongside whom another Croatian performed on the same night at the Theater an der Wien − the Osijek-born ballet dancer Zvonimir Pintar, who debuted as a soloist at the Vienna State Opera in 1942. Sena Jurinac and Nada Puttar Gold captivated the Viennese audience with their performances in Verdi’s Don Carlos on 6th February 1963. It’s rather fascinating to note that Verdi’s said opera was participated in by yet another Croatian, namely the Zagreb-born Tugomir Franc, who gave over 700 performances at the Vienna State Opera. Three Croats in one opera performance at the Vienna State Opera is an achievement that Croatian culture hasn’t repeated since 1963.

From amongst Croatia’s big names in opera who performed at the Vienna State Opera, Ruža Pospiš Baldani is also to be singled out. The archives of the Vienna State Opera reveal that, between 1973 and 1987, the great prima donna visited Vienna 18 times. In the span of 15 years, Pospiš Baldani played three demanding roles: the lead role in Bizet’s Carmen, the

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role of Azucena in Verdi’s Il trovatore, and the role of Brangäne in Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde, whom Pospiš Baldani embodied nine times. Ruža Pospiš Baldani also won the hearts of Viennese audiences at a Gala Concert held in September 1979 at the opening of Vienna’s UNO-City. Having given more than three hundred performances in the 1960s and the 1970s, the Dalmatian born Biserka Cvejić built an enviable career at the Vienna State Opera.

In the 1970s, the Viennese audience also applauded Ljiljana Molnar-Talajić, and this mostly after the performances she gave in Verdi’s Aida and Il trovatore. Dunja Vejzović also performed at the Vienna State Opera, having played roles in Wagner’s operas, although it was as Marie in Berg’s Wozzeck that she made a name for herself. After having studied in Vienna, Tomislav Mužek played as many as 14 roles at the Vienna State Opera in 1999/2000, amongst which his performances in The Tales of Hoffman, Il trovatore, Tosca, Der Rosenkavalier and many others stand out.

Besides Croatian opera singers, many Croatian conductors also performed at the Vienna State Opera. The Zagreb-born conductor Berislav Klobučar, brother of composer Anđelko Klobučar, was active at the Vienna State Opera for forty years, having conducted over a thousand opera performances. The archives also reveal that Klobučar was noted primarily for his conducting of Puccini’s operas: he conducted Turandot 42 times, La bohème 48 times,

Madama Butterfly 51 times, and Tosca 84 times. Klobučar’s teacher, Lovro Matačić, is also inscribed in the history of the Vienna State Opera. The renowned Croatian conductor presented himself to the audience of the Vienna State Opera as many as 86 times, and this in the period from the pre-war March of 1939 when he conducted a performance of Madama Butterfly, to Wagner’s The Flying Dutchman in June 1963. Conductor Nikša Bareza also presented himself to the Viennese audience by conducting numerous performances, most notably Donizetti’s The Elixir of Love. Vjekoslav Šutej conducted opera performances at the Vienna State Opera 129 times, the last time of which was in April 2007, just two years before he passed away.

However, performances by Croatian artists at the Vienna State Opera are not just history-related. The last engagement of a Croatian opera singer at the Vienna State Opera was the debut performance of young soprano Evelin Novak in the role of Ännchen in Weber’s Der Freischütz on 28th June 2018. We believe that Evelin will continue to captivate Austrian audiences, and that the Viennese and their guests will continue to get to know future generations of Croatian opera artists.

Glavni hrvatski grad Zagreb i austrijska prijestolnica povezani su letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva puta na dan u zimskom redu letenja. Ako želite osjetiti neodoljivi šarm zimskog Beča, iz Zagreba možete letjeti u Beč svaki dan u 8.15 i 17.50 sati, a iz Beča u Zagreb u 10.10 i 19.35 sati.

During the winter timetable, the Croatian capital, Zagreb, and the Austrian capital, Vienna, are connected with Croatia Airlines’ flights twice a day.

Should you wish to experience the irresistible charm of Vienna’s winter, you can fly from Zagreb to Vienna every day at 8:15 and 17:50, and from Vienna to Zagreb at 10:10 and 19:35.

croatiaairlines.com _ m.croatiaairlines.com

WE’RE INVESTING IN TECHNOLOGY TO MAKE TRAVEL MORE REWARDING. At Star Alliance, we are working with our member airlines to make earning and spending miles/points more exciting. You may not see it but you will feel it. Watch the full story here:

staralliance.com/tech

MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

SKRIVENA AZIJA

Baganska dolina Bagan Valley

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ Saša Pjanić

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Pagoda Shwe Indein, mjesto budističkog hodočašća, nedaleko od jezera Inle u državi Shan Shwe Indein Pagoda, a Buddhist pilgrimage site, not far from Inle Lake in Shan State

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Zlatna oplata na golemoj srediĹĄnjoj stupi Shwedagona u Yangonu, najsvetije burmanske pagode The gold plating on the giant central stupa of Shwedagon in Yangon, the most sacred Burmese pagoda

Razni predmeti kojima se trguje pod arkadama na prilazu pagodi Shwe Indein Different merchandise sold under the arcades leading to Shwe Indein Pagoda

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Pagoda Sule, poznato budističko svetište u središtu Yangona Sule Pagoda, a famous Buddhist shrine in downtown Yangon

Unutar kompleksa pagode Shwedagon u Yangonu Inside the Shwedagon Pagoda complex in Yangon

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Uvijek zakrčena Sule Pagoda Road, žila kucavica središta Yangona The always heavily congested Sule Pagoda Road, the main road of downtown Yangon

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Osim ledenjaka i snježnih vrhova kojih u Jugoistočnoj Aziji ima samo ondje, po čemu je još Mjanmar toliko poseban? Možda je bolje pitanje zašto se oni koji ga vide odande vraćaju oduševljeni i nadahnuti? Reportaža našeg suradnika nudi nam odgovore.

Besides being the only place in Southeast Asia with glaciers and snowy peaks, what is it that makes Myanmar so special? It’s perhaps better to ask why visitors return from it so delighted and inspired. Our associate’s report offers the answers.

01 Za burmanske budiste važno je znati na koji su dan rođeni.

Svaki dan u tjednu astrološki odgovara jednom planetu.

Pagoda Shwedagon, Yangon Knowing the day they were born on is important to Burmese Buddhists. Each day of the week corresponds astrologically to one planet. Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon 02 Mirna svakodnevica u selima oko Doline hramova u Baganu Peaceful everyday life in the villages surrounding the Valley of the Temples of Bagan 03 Oko 88% stanovništva Mjanmara čine budisti About 88% of Myanmar’s population is Buddhist 02

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01 Ribolov vršama na jezeru Inle u državi Shan Fishing on Inle Lake in Shan State using giant coneshaped fish traps 02 Uz Burmance u Mjanmaru žive brojne druge etničke skupine Alongside the Burmese, many other ethnic groups live in Myanmar 03 Park Maha Bandula, Yangon.

Britanski stil na burmanski način. Pankeri na fotografiji bivši su redovnici Maha Bandula Park, Yangon.

British style the Burmese way. The punks in the photo are former monks

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tisnuta između Indijskog potkontinenta i Kine, Republika Unija Mjanmar površinom je najveća zemlja jugoistočne Azije. Još je impresivnija njezina izduženost: na sjeveru se proteže do Tibeta, a na jugu, uz Andamansko more, sve do Malajske prevlake.

Premda je prijestolnica 2006. godine preseljena u novoizgrađeni Naypyidaw, posjetitelji koji u Mjanmar stižu zrakoplovom najčešće odabiru dvije zračne luke, Yangon i Mandalay. Zbog dugogodišnje izoliranosti prilike u Mjanmaru vezane uz vizni sustav i dostupni itinerar mijenjaju se i usklađuju vrlo često. Jednomjesečna turistička viza dostupna je i u elektroničkom obliku. Od svih zemalja jugoistočne Azije za Mjanmar najviše ima smisla upotrijebiti pojam Indokina, tu nemilu riječ s odjekom kolonijalizma koja u ovom slučaju opisuje mnogo. To je jedina zemlja regije koja svojim kopnom dodiruje oba azijska diva, crpeći utjecaj Indije i Kine. Budizam i kineski štapići. Garam masala i rižini rezanci. Longyi i mandarinski ovratnici. Žvakanje betela i čaj.

Yangon me očarao odmah po dolasku.

Jutro se izlilo po gradu, zavirilo pod drvene trijemove i obojilo blijedu izmaglicu. Medenom budnicom oglasila su se i dva zvonika katedrale svete Marije.

Gotovo u svakom trenutku Yangon pulsira jednakom snagom svjetovne uzavrelosti i unutarnjeg mira. Po ravnim avenijama Donjega grada gužva kao i drugdje na istoku, iako, začudo, bez motocikala i rikši. Žamor i galama prodavača voća i povrća koji čekaju na ukrcaj u šarene riječne čamce privezane uz dokove u luci.

U središtu grada nalazi se Sule Pagoda, svetište koje je, prema lokalnoj legendi, postojalo još u vrijeme Bude. Može se posjetiti svakoga dana te iz meteža gradske vreve uskočiti ravno u carstvo mira i kontemplativnosti. Mjanmar je zemlja u kojoj prevladava Theravada budizam s velikom zajednicom redovnika. Kada ste u hramu, uputno je slijediti pradakshinu, obredno kruženje oko svetog predmeta u smjeru kazaljke na satu. Slično se kreće i gust promet na kružnom toku oko pagode. Kada bismo ovaj grad htjeli opisati bojom, bila bi to zlatna. Na pola sata hoda od centra, na brežuljku Singuttara iznad grada zlatom i srebrom presijava se simbol Mjanmara, veličanstvena pagoda Shwedagon. Golema stupa u njezinu središtu presvučena je zlatom i optočena tisućama dragulja. Kada prođete kroz njezine dveri, kao da ste kročili na neki drugi planet u cijelosti sazdan od zlata. Hramom odjekuju gongovi i zvona i kloparaju molitveni kotači dok po dvoranama poklonici romore mantre. Na kraju sve nestane u tišini. Ovdje bih mogao provoditi sate.

Yangon je izrastao iz maloga ribarskog naselja koje se u 11. stoljeću prostiralo između vode i hrama. Moderno središte izgradili su Britanci nakon što su sredinom 19. stoljeća zaposjeli grad. Od tada pa sve do 1989. nosio je naziv Rangun.

Po brojnosti građevina iz kolonijalnog razdoblja Yangon je azijski broj jedan.

Kad se danas prolazi gradom, opažaju se znamenja njegove etničke raznolikosti. Šećući od Gradske vijećnice prema Kineskoj četvrti, nailazim na pagode, crkve, džamije, tamilske mandire, sikhij-

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01 Tržnica u gradu Nyaungshweu, u okolici jezera Inle. Država Shan poznata je i po izvrsnu crnom čaju The market in the townlet of Nyaungshwe near Inle Lake. Shan State is also famous for its excellent black tea 02 Yangon vrvi street food ponudom.

Noćna tržnica uz park Maha Bandula omiljeno je okupljalište ljubitelja dobrog zalogaja na otvorenome Yangon is jam-packed with street food stalls. The night market near Maha Bandula Park is a popular street food hotspot

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ske gurdware, konfucijanske hramove.

Tadašnja Burma stekla je neovisnost 1948., nakon završetka rata i japanske okupacije. Danas je Yangon šarmantan azijski velegrad s pet milijuna stanovnika i sve poželjnija destinacija mnogih posjetitelja i poslovnih ljudi. Svakodnevica donjogradskog središta Kyauktade dinamična je i intenzivna i traje do kasno u noć. Rano predvečerje najljepši je dio dana. Mnoštvo se okuplja u parku Maha Bandula, stvarajući opušteni ugođaj, sličan onome na travnjacima St. James ili Green Parka. Ubrzo dođe i vrijeme street food čarobnjaka. Ima ih već uz rub parka, duž ceste koja je i prije mraka zakrčena pečenjarama, štandovima i gomilom gladnih ljudi. No prava estrada za ljubitelje uličnog zalogaja tek je malo dalje, na noćnoj tržnici uz rijeku, nedaleko od znamenitog i luksuznog hotela Strand. Yangon je neopravdano zapostavljen među gastro vodičima jugoistočne Azije. Dobrih restorana ne manjka, hrana je božanstvena, a ljudi su srdačni i brižni. Za upoznavanje s gastronomijom Mjanmara preporučio bih lanac restorana Feel kojih u Yangonu ima nekoliko. I ne treba smetnuti s uma da je Mjanmar, kao i Yangon, melting pot pa je tako i njezina zanimljiva i ukusna kuhinja iznimno raznolika.

Eric Arthur Blair, poznatiji kao George Orwell, službovao je u carskoj policiji kada su Indija i Mjanmar, tada Burma, još bili dijelovi istoga carstva. Roman Burmanski dani zorno oslikava život daleko od velikoga grada do kojega se jedino moglo doploviti rijekom. Iravadi, žila kucavica Mjanmara, danas je plovna nešto dalje od Kathe, grada u kojemu je dvadesetih godina prošloga stoljeća Orwell proveo kraće vrijeme i ondje smjestio radnju svoje prve priče promijenivši mu ime u Kyauktada. Iravadi je engleska verzija burmanskoga naziva Ayeyarwady Myit, a znači rijeka koja ljudima donosi blagoslov. Silazi s tibetanskih ledenjaka i preko džungli Gornje Burme teče prema Bengalskom zaljevu. Jedan od ne baš jeftinih načina upoznavanja Mjanmara jest krstarenje riječnim kruzerima. Riječ je o živopisnoj floti starih parobroda preuređenih u luksuzna plovila. Koja god riječna ruta bila, nezaobilazno sidrište je Bagan, srce stare Burme.

Možda i više od pagode Shwedagon, Bagan je za Mjanmar isto što i Angkor Wat za Kambodžu. U 12. i 13. stoljeću Kraljevstvo Pagan, smješteno u središnjem Mjanmaru, na rijeci Iravadi, doživjelo je vrhunac. Bila je to prva zemlja u kojoj je burmanska elita ujedinila susjedna

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područja i time postavila temelj suverenosti. Mjesto je još poznato i kao Dolina hramova i najznačajniji je arheološki lokalitet u zemlji. Za petnaestak eura ili 25.000 kyata tri dana možete razgledavati većinu znamenitosti. Zbog visokih planina i uvučenosti u kopno, noći ovdje mogu biti svježe pa se dobro spava i bez uključene klime. Dan započinje rano jer mnogi u Mjanmar dolaze samo zbog svitanja nad dolinom. Da bi se uživalo u pozlaćenom spektaklu prve jutarnje svjetlosti, još za mraka treba naći prikladno uzvišenje. Tomu služe veliki hramovi. Nije problem penjati se u mraku po uskom, strmom stepeništu, nego utrkivati se s gomilom ljudi za što bolje mjesto na vrhu.

No nagrada vrijedi muke. U zlatno doba kraljevstva u Bagan su sa svih strana pristizali trgovci, učenjaci, redovnici, graditelji, zanatlije i umjetnici. Kako bi ostavili svoj pečat, a usput možda i popravili karmu, hramove je podizao tko god je mogao. Goleme, stožaste piramide ispunjene dvoranama s divovskim kipovima Budi ili tek omanje stupe. Od 10.000 hramova danas ih je tek 2200, ali i od tog pogleda zastaje dah, posebno onima koji ih nadlijeću u balonu. Vožnja u njima nad Baganom danas je općepoznata slika.

Za mali iznos može se unajmiti električni

motocikl i čitav dan švrljati po okolici. Lutanja po selima i druženje s ljudima moji su najdraži mjanmarski trenuci. Tek malo dalje od ruševina, pastoralna idila. Prizori koji prizivaju neko zaboravljeno vrijeme.

Volovske zaprege, pastiri i krda goveda u prašini. Djevojka s obramnicama upućuje mi osmijeh. Obrazi i čelo natrljani su joj thanakom, žućkastim prahom od kore drveta pomiješanim s vodom i glinom, tradicionalnom burmanskom kozmetikom koja štiti lice od jakoga sunca. Ako me u selu netko i pozove u svoju kuću kako bi mi prodao rukotvorinu, poslasticu ili suvenir, čini to nenametljivo. Iako su težaci, seljani su uglađeni, jednostavni ljudi. Vrlo brzo uz čaj vade slike i govore mi o svojoj obitelji.

No najviše me se dojmila igra Chinlone.

Igrala se još prije 1500 godina i nadživjela mnoga kraljevstva. Smisao igre jest da ratanska lopta ne padne na zemlju dok kolo igrača kruži. Kada nogama dočekuju ili dobacuju loptu, izvode nevjerojatne pokrete. Estetika, tjelovježba, okretnost i ples. Nekada je bila zabava na dvorovima, a danas je u dokolici igraju svi.

Mjanmar ima složen upravni sustav država, regija i teritorija. Država Shan, brdovito područje na istoku, najveća je administrativna jedinica. Uz jezero Inle provodim svoje zadnje burmanske dane.

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03 Noćna tržnica, park Maha Bandula The night market, Maha Bandula Park 04 Štandovi i tezge s pregrštom proizvoda na živopisnoj tržnici u Nyaungshweu Market stalls and stands with a feast of products at the lively market in Nyaungshwe

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Ovdje sve živi na vodi. Ribari na plitkim čunjevima love ogromnim stožastim vršama dok se jednom nogom upiru o vesla zapiknuta u plitki mulj. Ako riba ne grize, dostajat će napojnica za fotografiranje. Ljudi žive u sošnicama, a jezero je veliki hidroponski povrtnjak. Namirnice u Mjanmaru uzgojene su u vodi ili u tlu i iznimne su kakvoće. Ovdje nikada ne dosadi obilaženje nasada, bilo čamcem, balonom ili pješice. Dio jezera rezervat je za životinje i veliko močvarno stanište brojnih životinjskih vrsta. U gradiću Nyaungshwe, nakon obilaska živopisne tržnice kušam lokalne specijalitete.

Htamin jin ukusno je jelo od fermentirane riže, začinjenih povrtnih umaka i prženog tofua. Nakon objeda, čaj. Mjanmar je poznat po vrhunskom čaju koji se uzgaja u državi Shan. No osim što se pije, ovdje se još i jede. Lahpet je, naime, ukusna salata od fermentiranih ili kiseljenih listova čaja.

Prije odlaska sjedim u lobiju hotela Sule Shangri-La u Yangonu dok me ljupka Thiri iz ureda za odnose s javnošću podučava osnovama burmanskoga. Zahvaljujem joj na susretljivosti i uputama koje sam od nje dobio. Ovo je predivna zemlja u kojoj vrijeme sporo teče, zrak je vedar i čist, a voda pitka i iz velikih rijeka. Volio bih da

tako i ostane.

W

edged between the Indian subcontinent and China, the Republic of the Union of Myanmar is the largest country of Southeast Asia. What’s even more impressive is how stretched out it is − its north stretches to Tibet, and its south, along the Andaman Sea, all the way to the Isthmus of Kra. Although in 2006 the capital was moved to the newly-built Naypyidaw, those coming to Myanmar by plane usually choose one of these two airports − Yangon or Mandalay. Thanks to Myanmar’s many years of isolation, the country’s visa policy and the itineraries available have very often been changed and adjusted. One-month tourist visas are also available in e-form.

Of all the countries of Southeast Asia, the term Indochina − a dreadful term reverberating with the idea of colonialism, which, in this particular case, says a lot − makes most sense when applied to Myanmar. It’s the only country in the region that borders both Asian giants, thus coming under the influence of both India and China. Buddhism and chopsticks. Garam masala and

rice noodles. Longyis and Mandarin collars. Betel nut chewing and tea.

As soon as I arrived, I was instantly captivated by Yangon. The morning poured out over the city, peeking under wooden porches and colouring the pale haze. The two bell towers of St. Mary’s Cathedral chimed a sweet reveille. Almost uninterruptedly, Yangon pulsates equally with the power of worldly exuberance and inner peace. The straight avenues of downtown Yangon are just as crowded as any other place in the East, although, surprisingly, there’re no motorcycles or rickshaws. Fruit and vegetable vendors waiting to board colourful river boats tied to the docks in the harbour clamour and clangour. The city centre boasts Sule Pagoda, a shrine which had, according to local legend, existed at the time of Buddha himself. It can be visited every day, and is a place of refuge from the hustle and bustle of city life, a true realm of peace and contemplation.

The most prevalent religion in Myanmar is Theravada Buddhism with a large community of monks. When inside a pagoda, you’re advised to follow Pradakshina, that is, to circumambulate the pagoda’s sacred object in a clockwise direction. The heavy traffic around the pagoda moves in a similar direction. If this city had to be described with a colour, it would have to be − the colour of gold. A half an hour’s walk from the city centre, on Singuttara Hill above town, the symbol of Myanmar gleams with gold and silver − the magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda. Its giant central stupa is completely covered with gold plating and decorated with thousands of jewels and

precious stones. Stepping into its court is like stepping onto a different planet, one made entirely of gold. The pagoda echoes with the chime of bells and gongs, and the rattle of prayer wheels while its halls are teeming with worshipers reciting their mantras. In the end, it all sinks into silence.

I really could spend hours here.

Yangon grew out of a small fishing village which, in the 11th century, stretched between Yangon River creeks and the temple. Its modern city centre was built by the British after they took control of the city in the mid-19th century. From then until 1989, its name was Rangoon. Yangon outstrips any other Asian city in the number of buildings from the colonial period.

While passing through the city today, you’ll notice signs of the city’s multi-ethnicity.

Strolling from the City Hall to Chinatown, you’ll come across pagodas, churches, mosques, Tamil mandirs, Sikh gurdwaras and Confucian temples. The former state of Burma gained its independence in 1948, once the war and the Japanese occupation ended. Today’s Yangon is a charming Asian metropolis of five million inhabitants and an increasingly desirable destination for many visitors and business people. The daily life of Kyauktada, the centre of downtown Yangon, is dynamic and intense, and goes on well into the night. Early evening is the most beautiful part of the day. The crowds start gathering in Maha Bandula Park, creating a relaxed atmosphere similar to the ones experienced on the lawns of St. James’s or Green Park. Soon, it’s time for street food wizards. There are a few already along the edge of the park,

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01 Budistički redovnik A Buddhist monk 02 Tradicionalno ukrašavanje lica thanakom, kremastom pastom načinjenom od kore istoimenog drveta Traditional Burmese face painting with thanaka cream, a creamy paste made from the bark of the thanaka tree 03 Što od potresa, što od zuba vremena, u Baganu je do danas sačuvano tek oko 2200 hramova i pagoda s kipovima Budhe od gotovo 10000 koliko ih je bilo u 13. stoljeću Due to earthquakes and the passage of time, as little as some 2200 temples and pagodas with Buddha statues have been preserved to date in Bagan of the approximately 10000 temples that filled the valley in the 13th century

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alongside the road which is overflowing with barbecue and street food stalls, and crowds of hungry people even before the dark falls. But the real attraction for street food lovers lies just a bit further away, at the night market by the river, not far from the famous and luxurious Strand Hotel.

Yangon is unjustifiably ignored by the food guides of Southeast Asia. The city isn’t lacking in good restaurants, the food is divine, and its people are friendly and caring.

The Feel Restaurant chain − with Yangon boasting a few − is the best place to start discovering Myanmar’s culinary scene. You should also keep in mind that Myanmar, as well as Yangon, is a melting pot, making its fascinating and delicious cuisine extremely diverse.

Eric Arthur Blair, better known as George Orwell, served in the Imperial Police when India and Myanmar, known as Burma at the time, were still part of the same empire.

His novel Burmese Days vividly portrays life far from the big city which could be reached only by a riverboat. Irrawaddy, Myanmar’s longest river, is today navigable a bit downstream from Katha, a town where Orwell spent some time during the 1920s and where he set his first story in, although he changed its name into Kyauktada. The name Irrawaddy is an English corruption of

Ayeyarwady Myit, and it means a river that brings blessings to the people. It descends from Tibet’s glaciers and flows, through the jungles of Upper Myanmar, towards the Bay of Bengal. Taking a river cruise aboard one of the many picturesque old steamboats redecorated into luxury riverboats is one of the best yet more expensive ways of discovering Myanmar. Whichever river cruise route you take, you’ll inevitably stop in Bagan, the heart of old Burma.

Bagan is for Myanmar − perhaps even

more so than Shwedagon Pagoda − what Angkor Wat is for Cambodia. The 12th and 13th centuries were the golden age of the Kingdom of Pagan, located in central Myanmar along the Irrawaddy River. This was the first kingdom in which the Burmese elite united neighbouring regions, having thus laid the foundations for sovereignty.

The place is also known as the Valley of the Temples of Bagan, and is the greatest archaeological site in the country. You can see most of the sights in three days

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for some € 15.00 or 25,000 Kyat. Thanks to the mountains being high and the fact that Bagan is embedded in the mainland, the nights here can be cool, which means that you’ll sleep well even without any air conditioning. The day begins early because many people come to Myanmar only to see the daybreak over the valley.

To enjoy the golden spectacle of the break of day, you’re advised to find a suitably elevated point while it’s still dark. This is what the temples are for. Climbing narrow, steep stairs in the dark is not a problem, but trying to overtake a crowd of people to find the best possible spot on the top is. But the reward is worth your trouble.

During the golden age of the Kingdom of Pagan, merchants, scholars, monks, builders, craftsmen and artists would flock in from everywhere. With a view to leaving their mark, and in the hope of improving their karma, whoever had the means would raise a temple − giant, cone-shaped pyramids filled with halls housing giant statues of Buddha or smaller stupas. Of the approximately 10000 temples that once filled the valley, only some 2200 temples have remained to date. The view is breath-taking regardless, particularly to those who take a hot air balloon ride over the valley, which is a familiar sight.

You can rent an electric motorcycle for a small price and roam the surroundings. Wandering around the villages and making contact with the locals are my favourite moments in Myanmar. Just a bit further away from the ruins − a pastoral idyll. Scenes that invoke a forgotten time.

Oxcarts, shepherds and herds of cat-

tle in the dust. A girl carrying a shoulder pole is giving me a smile. Her cheeks and forehead are covered with thanaka cream, a traditional Burmese yellowish-white cosmetic paste made from ground bark mixed with water and clay, nature’s sunscreen applied to the face. You may get invited very unobtrusively into someone’s house to buy their handicraft, a sweet or souvenir.

Although they’re labourers, the villagers are polite, simple people. If you drink tea with them, they very quickly start talking about their family while taking out pictures of them. But what has impressed me most was the game of Chinlone. It’s been played for 1500 years and has survived many kingdoms. The objective of the game is to keep the hand-woven rattan caneball from falling to the ground as the players pass it amongst each other while in a circle formation. While passing the ball back and forth using their legs alone, their movements are incredibly impressive. It’s an aesthetics, exercise, agility and dance − all in one. It

once used to be played as court entertainment; today, it’s the nation’s pastime.

Myanmar’s administrative structure of states, regions and territories is very complex. Shan State, a mountainous region in the east, is Myanmar’s largest administrative unit. I spent my last Burmese days at Inle Lake. Life is lived on the water here.

Fishermen in shallow boats fish using giant cone-shaped fish traps while balancing with one foot in the boat and the other on their oar stuck in shallow mud. If the fish don’t bite, they’ll be tipped by tourists for taking pictures of them. People live in stilt houses here, and the lake is a giant hydroponic garden. Burmese fruits and vegetables, regardless of whether they’re grown in water or soil, are of exceptional quality. Here, you can never grow bored of visiting plantations, whether by boat, hot air balloon or on foot. Part of the lake is a wildlife sanctuary and a large wetland habitat for numerous animal species.

After having visited the lively market of the townlet of Nyaungshwe, I tried some local specialities. Htamin Jin is a delicious dish of fermented rice, seasoned vegetable sauces and fried tofu. After lunch, it was time to have tea. Myanmar is widely known for top-quality tea grown in Shan State.

Interestingly, tea is not only drunk here, but also eaten. Lahpet is a delicious salad of fermented or pickled tea leaves. Before I left, I sat in the lobby of the Sule ShangriLa Hotel in Yangon, while Thiri from the Public Relations Office was trying to teach me the basics of Burmese. I thanked her for her assistance and the instructions she gave me. This is a truly beautiful country where time passes slowly, where the air is clear and clean, and the water potable even from its big rivers. I truly hope it stays

that way.

01 Kao i u većini jugoistočne Azije, veći dio života odvija se na vodi ili oko vode As in most of Southeast Asia, much of life unfolds on or around water 02 Ruralna idila u selima oko Bagana Pastoral idyll in the villages surrounding Bagan 02

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U

zapadnom dijelu Zagreba nalazi se prostor nalik na posve običnu garažu. No zapravo je to vrlo neobičan prostor jer se ondje na samo 80 m2 smjestila destilerija Duh u boci, u kojoj se proizvodi najbolji craft džin na svijetu.

Za to su zaslužna dva dobra prijatelja, Tomislav Anadolac i Hrvoje Bušić, bivši vojni piloti koji su se upoznali kao kadeti na vojnoj akademiji prije dvadesetak godina i svoj sadašnji hobi doveli do savršenstva. A počeli su se njime baviti prije samo godinu i pol proizvodeći Old Pilot’s Gin. Hrvoje je danas zaposlen u Croatia Airlinesu kao pilot-instruktor na Dashu 8-Q400, a Tomislav je, nakon okončanja karijere vojnog pilota, postao uspješan poslovni čovjek.

Sve je počelo opuštenim čavrljanjima u društvu petorice prijatelja o tome čime bi se u slobodno vrijeme voljeli baviti. − Netko trči maratone, netko se bavi jogom, netko kuha... − pričaju Hrvoje

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i Tomislav koji su u jednom trenutku odlučili prelomiti i investirati u posao koji ih veseli. Tako je nastao najbolji craft džin na svijetu.

Da sve ide dobro, pokazalo je već njihovo prvo priznanje − srebrna medalja u Dallasu. Poslali su svoj džin na tamošnje natjecanje samo da bi dobili povratnu informaciju o tome jesu li na pravome putu te vidjeli kako njihov proizvod stoji među onima koji se, za razliku od njihova, mogu pohvaliti dugom tradicijom postojanja. A onda je uslijedilo ono što je šokiralo i njih.

Nadmašili su svoje uzore. Na najvažnijem svjetskom godišnjem ocjenjivanju destilata San Francisco Spirits Competition 2019 Old Pilot’s Gin osvojio je zlatnu medalju među više od 3000 proizvoda, a zatim je u srpnju i na svjetskom natjecanju u vinima i destilatima IWSC u Londonu proglašen najboljim na svijetu u kategoriji London Dry. I ne samo to. U San Franciscu je brončanom medaljom

nagrađen i dizajn boce na čijoj je prednjoj plohi crtež aviona, ali originalna je i po tome što se, gledate li je sa stražnje strane, kroz tekućinu u boci naziru crteži biljaka koji sugeriraju u čemu je tajna najboljeg džina na svijetu.

A tajna je, odaju Hrvoje i Tomislav, osim u ljubavi, entuzijazmu i ozbiljnosti kojom pristupaju ovom poslu, u vrhunskim domaćim sastojcima, aromatičnom bilju, odnosno ekstraktima njihovih aroma: borovicama iz Otočca, kadulji s Velebita, anđeliki iz Like, narančama iz Opuzena, lavandi s Hvara i maslinovom listu s Biokova, dakle u kombinaciji kontinentalnih i mediteranskih biljaka. Ali i u Hrvojevoj i Tomislavovoj analitičnosti, pedantnosti i temeljitosti. Da bi dobio i formalno obrazovanje, Hrvoje se odlučio dodatno školovati. Proveo je neko vrijeme u Nizozemskoj, gdje je stekao certifikat koji potvrđuje njegovu kompetenciju za ovaj posao. − Zajedničko nam je to što svemu pristupamo tako da razmislimo zašto nešto radimo − kaže Tomislav i dodaje: − Beskompromisni smo kad je riječ o kvaliteti. Sve loše sastojke odvajamo. Od našeg džina sigurno nikoga neće boljeti glava.

No prisjećaju se kako nije baš sve uvijek išlo glatko. Kvaliteta i sezonalnost bilja stalni su izazovi. Nakon prvih šest mjeseci bili su prisiljeni krenuti takoreći ispočetka jer nisu dobili dovoljno kvalitetnu sirovinu pa su morali promijeniti dobavljača.

Pobjeda na dva prestižna i ugledna natjecanja donijela im je slatke muke; potražnja je porasla do neslućenih razmjera.

Pitamo ih kako se nose s time.

- Od nagrade u Londonu razvoj se vinuo u visine, tražimo način da zadovoljimo tu silnu potražnju, a morat ćemo odlučiti i što i kako dalje − kažu.

Hoće li njihovo malo poduzeće Duh u boci iz garaže prerasti u džina, veliku kor-

n the western part of Zagreb, there’s a building that looks like an ordinary garage. But, in reality, this is anything but an ordinary garage spreading across 80m2 − this is where The Spirit in the Bottle (Duh u boci in Croatian) dwells, a distillery producing the best gin in the world. Credit for this goes to two good friends, Tomislav Anado-

competition in Dallas just to get some feedback on whether they were on the right track and to see whether their product could compete with those that, unlike theirs, have a long tradition. The response they got came as a bit of a shock to them too. They outclassed their role models! At the leading annual 2019 San Francisco World Spirits Competition, their Old Pilot’s Gin won a gold medal competing against 3000 competitors. Then came July and the International Wine and Spirit Competition

lac and Hrvoje Bušić, former military pilots who met as cadets at a military academy some twenty years ago and who − having brought their hobby to perfection − turned it into a business. They took up the hobby of making gin as little as a year and half ago, and created − Old Pilot’s Gin. Hrvoje today works for Croatia Airlines as a Dash 8-Q400 flight instructor, while Tomislav has, once he ended his military pilot career, become a successful businessman.

It all started with five friends chit-chatting about what they’d like to do in their spare time. − Some people run marathons, others do yoga, some cook... − say Hrvoje and Tomislav, who at one point decided to just go for it and invest in a business that made them happy. And this is how the best craft gin in the world was created.

Their first accolade − a silver medal won in Dallas − was proof that they were doing things right. They sent their gin to a

(IWSC) in London, where their Old Pilot’s Gin won the 2019 Gold and the 2019 London Dry Gin Trophy. And there’s more.

It also won a bronze medal at the 2019 Packaging Design Competition in San Francisco for its bottle design. What makes it original is that, if you look at it from the back, behind the drawing of an airplane at its front, through the bottle you can see drawings of plants, which seem to suggest that the secret of the best gin in the world lies exactly with them.

And the secret is, Hrvoje and Tomislav reveal − besides their love of what they do − their enthusiasm and seriousness with which they approach their business, topquality local ingredients, aromatic herbs and their aroma extracts: juniper berries from Otočac, sage from Velebit, angelica from Lika, oranges from Opuzen, lavender from Hvar, and olive leaf from Biokovo. In other words, a combination of continental and Mediterranean plants. But also Hrvoje

toga je dio njihove priče i u emociji − ne prodaju samo proizvod nego i doživljaj zapakiran u njega.

M. Grgić

I

T. Valent

poraciju koja će imati mnogo zaposlenih i franšize po svijetu, hoće li lansirati i nove proizvode... Sve su to pitanja na koja će se s vremenom iskristalizirati odgovori sami po sebi, uvjereni su Hrvoje i Tomislav jer, kažu, uče radeći. Slažu se u tome da im je najvažnija stabilnost njihova poduzeća, da će raditi dokle god u tome vide smisao i da od vrhunske kvalitete ne namjeravaju odstupiti ni milimetra.

A već najavljuju i nove proizvode. Žele proizvesti i prvi hrvatski viski, ali i rakiju.

Za viski već imaju formulu koja se temelji na onoj provjerenoj za džin. − Malo je promijenjena receptura da bi se dobila nova kompleksnost proizvoda i postigla veća slatkoća, uvode se i novi sastojci − vanilija, suho voće... Radi se u bačvama američkog i hrvatskog hrasta − kažu.

Nedvojbeno, proizvodnja će se širiti...

Osim njih dvojice u destileriji već preko student-servisa radi i jedna studentica, a na pola radnog vremena zaposlili su i voditelja proizvodnje. No svjesni su da ni to uskoro neće biti dovoljno. Osobito stoga što se sve radi ručno. Morat će proizvodnju pojačati i kupnjom novih strojeva, preseliti u novi prostor...

Na kraju našeg razgovora pitamo ih što je, po njihovu mišljenju, potrebno za uspjeh. I u tome se slažu. − Uspjeh je stvar stava. Put do uspjeha satkan je od niza neuspjeha. Između onih uspješnih i onih neuspješnih razlika je samo u tome što uspješni nikad nisu odustali − kažu Hrvoje i Tomislav, dodajući kako su očito piloti specifični ljudi s kojima se mnogi vole poistovjećivati. Zbog

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won’t be enough, particularly because everything’s done by hand. They’ll have to buy new machinery to increase production output, find and move to a new location...

At the end, we’ve ask them what it takes to become successful. This too they agree on. − Success is a matter of attitude. The road to success is made up of a series of failures. The only difference between successful and unsuccessful people is that the successful have never given up − say Hrvoje and Tomislav, adding that pilots are obviously special people that many like to identify with. This must be why emotions are also a part of their story − what they sell is not just a product, but also an expe rience packaged into it.

B. Prezelj

T. Valent

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T. Marić

and Tomislav’s analytic mind, meticulousness and thoroughness. Wanting to receive a formal education, Hrvoje decided to study in the Netherlands, where he obtained a certificate confirming his competence in the business. − What we have in common is our approach, which is we first think about why we’re doing what we’re doing − says Tomislav and adds − We are uncompromising about quality. We separate all the bad quality ingredients. Our gin won’t give anyone a headache, that’s for sure.

But they remember that not everything went smoothly all the time. The quality and seasonality of plant ingredients are a constant challenge. After their first six months in the business, they were forced to start from scratch because the quality of the ingredients they first bought wasn’t good enough, and so they had to change suppliers.

Winning medals at two prestigious and highly respected competitions has brought them sweet pains − demand has skyrocketed. We’ve ask them how they deal with it all. − Since the London award, our research and development has soared to new heights, we’ve been looking for ways to

meet this growing demand, and we’ll soon have to decide what to do and how to proceed − they say.

Will their tiny garage-based company, The Spirit in the Bottle, turn into a genie, a large corporation with many employees and franchises around the world, will they also launch new products... Answers to all these questions will crystallise with time, Hrvoje and Tomislav are convinced because they learn best through work, they say. They agree that the most important thing to them is the stability of their company, that they’ll continue doing what they do as long as they see the point of it all, and that they do not intend to allow any reductions in quality.

And they’ve already announced new products. They want to produce Croatia’s first whiskey, but also rakija brandy. They already have a formula for whiskey, and it’s based on their tried-and-tested recipe for gin. − We’ve changed the recipe slightly to get a new product complexity and greater sweetness. We’ll also introduce new ingredients, such as vanilla and dried fruit.

It’ll be made in American and Croatian oak barrels − they say.

Production will expand, there’s no question about it... Apart from the two, the distillery also employs a student and a production manager, both working on a part-time basis. But, they’re aware that, soon, this

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Prof. Krešimir Rotim

Orthopaedic Hospital u Londonu čije metode poput liječenja matičnim stanicama i oxfordske parcijalne endoproteze koljena primjenjuje u svakodnevnom radu. − U poliklinici Rotim − Specijalnoj bolnici Neurospine razvijamo personaliziranu terapiju te primjenom minimalno invazivnih zahvata omogućujemo pacijentima poboljšanje kvalitete života, a bez potrebe za opsežnim kirurškim intervencijama − naglasio je dr. Čengić dodavši kako se takvim individualnim pristupom pacijentu omogućuje brz povratak u svakodnevne životne, sportske i radne aktivnosti.

Profesionalne usluge u poliklinici odgovaraju najvišim medicinskim standardima, a iskustva pacijenata pokazuju da je riječ o ustanovi u kojoj se liječenju pristupa multidisciplinarno i holistički s ciljem postizanja vrhunskog rezultata te poboljšanja kvalitete života. Minimalno invazivne spinalne intervencije, laserske perkutane dekompresije diska, operacije stabilizacije i dekompresije kralješnice te radiofrekventni zahvati na kralješnici, zatim tehnike liječenja matičnim stanicama, regeneracija hrskavice, ugradnje najmodernijih umjetnih zglobova te fizikalna rehabilitacija poput DNS-a (dynamic neuromuscular stabilization) pozicioniraju Polikliniku Rotim − Specijalnu bolnicu Neurospine kao adresu na kojoj pacijent može dobiti najbolje personalizirano liječenje.

na regiju i ishodište. S tim ciljem kreiran je interdisciplinarni tim vrhunskih stručnjaka − rekao je profesor Rotim, koji je zbog svojeg rada ove godine, kao prvi Hrvat u povijesti, primljen u prestižnu Svjetsku neurokiruršku akademiju (WANS), u kojoj je članstvo doživotno i u kojoj članom iz svake zemlje može biti samo jedan liječnik. Rotim je ujedno i počasni predsjednik Udruženja neurokirurga jugoistočne Europe (SeENS), Hrvatskog društva za spinalnu kirurgiju, a izabran je nedavno na zavidnu poziciju dopredsjednika Svjetske neurokirurške federacije (WFNS).

Liječnički tim čini i dr. Tomislav Čengić, specijalist ortopedije i traumatologije, jedan od najcjenjenijih hrvatskih ortopeda mlađe generacije, koji iza sebe ima niz inovacijskih pothvata u području ortopedije i regenerativne medicine. Ovaj mladi doktor usavršavao se u najpoznatijim ortopedskim klinikama kao što su Universitätsspital u Baselu te Royal National

he Neurospine Specialist Hospital in Zagreb is a state-of-the-art healthcare facility offering specialist medical services in neurosurgery, orthopaedics, pain management, physical medicine and rehabilitation, ultrasound diagnostics and aesthetic medicine. It is intended for patients with spinal, joint and muscle conditions and injuries, whose pain is relieved by a top team of expert medical specialists using advanced technologies in one place in the shortest time possible.

Neurospine’s team of top medical specialists is led by Professor Krešimir Rotim, a prominent and one of the most respected neurosurgeons in Croatia and the world.

He has set up the specialist hospital with a clear vision − by building a team of carefully selected medical doctors and physiotherapists for whom medicine is their calling in life, and by applying cutting-edge technology and the latest advances in personalised medicine.

ZDRAVLJE JE NAJVAŽNIJE HEALTH IS PARAMOUNT Poliklinika Rotim − Specijalna bolnica Neurospine adresa na kojoj pacijent može dobiti najbolje personalizirano liječenje.

Rotim Boutique Clinic − Neurospine Specialist Hospital, a healthcare facility offering the best comprehensive treatment to patients.

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eurospine u Zagrebu vrhunski je opremljena zdravstvena ustanova posvećena neurokirurgiji, ortopediji, liječenju boli, fizikalnoj medicini i rehabilitaciji, ultrazvučnoj dijagnostici te estetskoj medicini. Namijenjena je pacijentima s tegobama u području kralješnice, zglobova i mišića, kojima zahvaljujući naprednim tehnologijama vrhunski tim stručnjaka iz različitih područja medicine otklanja bol na jednoj adresi u najkraćem razdoblju.

Na čelu tima stručnjaka jest čuveni hrvatski neurokirurg, profesor Krešimir Rotim, jedan od najcjenjenijih neurokirurga današnjice, koji je specijalnu bolnicu osmislio s jasnom vizijom koja ujedinjuje tim pomno izabranih liječnika i fizioterapeuta kojima je medicina životni poziv te primjenu najsuvremenijih stručnih i znanstvenih dostignuća u personaliziranoj medicini. − Ideja nam je bila stvoriti sustav koji će pacijentu riješiti problem i bol bez obzira

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Piše/By _ Tea Malevutić; Fotografije/Photos _ Saša Zinaja

REPORT

− The idea was to create a system that would solve the patient’s problem and relieve their pain regardless of the region and source of pain. To this end, an interdisciplinary team of top experts has been put together − said Professor Rotim, the first Croatian in history to have succeeded in being accepted this year into the prestigious World Academy of Neurological Surgery (WANS) thanks to his work and achievements. Membership of WANS is an honour and privilege given that it is lifetime membership, and given that WANS accepts into its membership only one

developing personalised therapy and, by performing minimally invasive procedures, we’ve been enabling patients to improve the quality of their lives without the need for extensive surgical interventions − emphasised Doctor Čengić, adding that such an individualised approach enables patients to return to their everyday lives, sports and work activities as quickly as possible.

The professional services offered at the clinic meet the highest medical standards, with patients’ experiences testifying to Rotim Boutique Clinic being a medical

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Tomislav Čengić, specijalist ortopedije i traumatologije/an orthopaedic and trauma consultant i/and prof. Krešimir Rotim, specijalist neurokirurg/a neurosurgery consultant

medical doctor from any country. Professor Rotim is also the Honorary President of the Southeast Europe Neurosurgical Society (SeENS), the Croatian Society for Spine Surgery, and was recently elected as a Vice President of the World Federation of Neurosurgical Societies (WFNS).

Tomislav Čengić, MD, an orthopaedic and trauma consultant, one of the most respected young orthopaedists in Croatia with a series of innovative achievements in orthopaedics and regenerative medicine already behind him, is also part of Neurospine’s medical team. This young doctor trained at the most famous orthopaedic clinics, such as the University Hospital of Basel and the Royal National Orthopaedic Hospital in London, whose methods, such as stem cell treatment and Oxford partial knee replacement, he uses in his everyday work. − At the Rotim Boutique Clinic − Neurospine Specialist Hospital, we’ve been

centre where treatment is multidisciplinary and holistic aiming to achieve top results and improve quality of life. Minimally invasive spinal interventions, percutaneous laser disc decompression, lumbar stabilisation and decompression surgeries, and radiofrequency spine surgery, stem cell treatment procedures, cartilage regeneration, state-of-the-art artificial joint implantations, and physical rehabilitation, such as dynamic neuromuscular stabilisation (DNS), make the Rotim Boutique Clinic − Neurospine Specialist Hospital the healthcare facility offering the best comprehensive treatment to patients.

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Zagreb

Od imaginacije do animacije: šest desetljeća Zagreb filma From Imagination to Animation: The Six Decades of Zagreb Film Piše/By _ Vesna Meštrić 03

Muzej suvremene umjetnosti 30. siječnja − 14. lipnja 2020.

02 Zlatko Grgić, Profesor Baltazar / Professor Balthazar, serijal 1967. − 1978. / animated television series 1967-1978

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s poviješću Muzeja suvremene umjetnosti, nekadašnje Galerije suvremene umjetnosti, koja je okupljala umjetnike koji su ostvarili velike uspjehe u području animacije, poput Vladimira Kristla i Zlatka Boureka, ili pak intenzivno surađivali u procesu nastanka animiranih filmova, poput Ive Dulčića, Aleksandra Srneca, Kamila Tompe i mnogih drugih.

Izložba Od imaginacije do animacije: šest desetljeća Zagreb filma posvećena je slavnoj povijesti Zagreb filma, institucije osnovane davne 1953. godine, koja je u šest desetljeća proizvela više od 700 animiranih, 14 igranih, 600 dokumentarnih filmova, 800 reklamnih spotova i 600 edukativnih filmova. Zaista, nema mnogo institucija čija je povijest ispunjena s više od 500 nagrada, među kojima posebno mjesto zauzima prestižna nagrada Američke filmske akademije Oscar dodijeljena za najbolji animirani film 1961. godine za Surogat Dušana Vukotića. K tomu dodajemo i tri nominacije za Oscara − 1964. za film Igra Dušana Vukotića, zatim 1973. za Tup-tup Nedeljka Dragića i 1980. za film Lutka snova u režiji Boba Godfreya i

Ilustracije _ Arhiv Zagreb film / Ilustrations _ Zagreb Film archives

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01 Plakat izložbe, Vladimir Končar, autor vizualnog identiteta Exhibition poster, Vladimir Končar, author of visual identity

Kada govorimo o Zagreb filmu, najširoj je publici prva asocijacija slavni profesor Baltazar, simpatični znanstvenik koji je u 59 epizoda od 1967. do 1978. godine s mnogo mašte i pozitivne energije rješavao probleme svojih sugrađana u Baltazar-gradu. Zlatko Grgić bio je autor lika Baltazara, dok mu je Pavao Štalter dao ime, a čitav tim suradnika u studiju Zagreb filma radio je na projektu. Među njima su bili vrsni animatori poput Ante Zaninovića, Borisa Kolara, Milana Blažekovića i Zlatka Boureka. Svi ovi autori uz Borivoja Dovnikovića, Nedeljka Dragića, Zdenka Gašparovića, Aleksandra Marksa i Vladimira Jutrišu pripadaju drugoj generaciji vrhunskih animatora okupljenih u Studiju crtanog filma, osnovanome 1956. u Zagreb filmu. U formativnim su godinama Dušan Vukotić, Vatroslav Mimica, Nikola Kostelac i Vladimir Kristl pripadali prvoj generaciji autora koja je razvila prepoznatljiv izričaj umjetničke animacije različit od tada dominantne diznijevske animacije. Već prvom pojavom na filmskome festivalu u Cannesu 1958., zbog originalnog pristupa u animaciji, izbora tema i visoke likovne kvalitete filmova, francuski kritičari Georges Sadoul i André Martin uvode termin Zagrebačka škola crtanog filma, a autorska ostvarenja koja su nastajala u Studiju Zagreb filma u potpunosti su promijenila povijest svjetske animacije. Povijest Zagrebačke škole crtanog filma blisko je povezana

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Zlatka Grgića. Izložba u Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti predstavit će više od 200 animiranih filmova te sjajnu dokumentarnu i filmsku produkciju koja će u vrijeme trajanja izložbe biti prikazana u Dvorani Gorgona MSU-a. Pored toga, prvi put bit će prikazana vrijedna arhivska građa Zagreb filma − crteži, skice, celovi, autentični predmeti te umjetnički radovi iz zbirki Muzeja suvremene umjetnosti i drugih hrvatskih muzeja te iz privatnog vlasništva, kojima će, upravo u vrijeme kada Hrvatska predsjeda Vijećem Europske unije, biti ispričana priča o fantastičnim svjetskim uspjesima naših animatora od sredine pedesetih godina prošlog stoljeća do danas.

Museum of Contemporary Art 30th January−14th June 2020 When discussing Zagreb Film, everyone’s first association is the famous Professor Balthazar, a likeable scientist who, in 59 episodes produced between 1967 and 1978, solves the problems of his fellow citizens in Balthazar Town with much imagination and positive energy. The character of Balthazar was authored by Zlatko Grgić, Pavao Štalter gave Professor Balthazar his name, and the project was worked on by a whole team of collaborators at the Zagreb Film Studio, such brilliant animators as Ante Zaninović, Boris Kolar, Milan Blažeković and Zlatko Bourek. All of these authors − along with Borivoj Dovniković, Nedeljko Dragić, Zdenko Gašparović, Aleksandar Marks and Vladimir Jutriša − belong to

the second generation of top animators working at Zagreb Film’s Animation Studio founded in 1956. In the formative years, Dušan Vukotić, Vatroslav Mimica, Nikola Kostelac and Vladimir Kristl were the first generation of authors who developed a distinctive expression in the art of animation, which differed from the then dominant Disney Animated Canon. At their very first appearance at the Cannes Film Festival in 1958, French critics Georges Sadoul and André Martin introduced the term the Zagreb School of Animated Film, and this thanks to their original approach to animation, their choice of themes and the high visual and artistic quality of their films.

The animated films that were authored and produced at Zagreb Film’s Animation Studio have completely changed the history of world animation. The history of the Zagreb School of Animated Film is closely related to the history of the Museum of Contemporary Art, formerly the Gallery of Contemporary Art, which brought together artists who achieved great successes in the field of animation (such as Vladimir Kristl and Zlatko Bourek) or who collaborated intensively in the process of making animated films (such as Ivo Dulčić, Aleksandar Srnec, Kamilo Tompa and many others).

The From Imagination to Animation: The Six Decades of Zagreb Film exhibition is dedicated to the glorious history of Zagreb Film, an institution founded back in 1953, which produced − during the course of six decades − over 700 animated films, 14 feature films, 600 documentaries, 800 commercials, and 600 educational films.

Indeed, there aren’t many institutions whose history boasts over 500 awards, one of which occupies a special place − a prestigious Academy Award for Best Animated Short Film awarded in 1961 to Dušan Vukotić for his Surogat (Surrogate).

To this, three Oscar nominations are to be added − in 1964 for Dušan Vukotić’s film Igra (The Play), in 1973 for Nedeljko Dragić’s animated short film Tup-tup, and in 1980 for Bob Godfrey and Zlatko Grgić’s Lutka snova (Dream Doll). The exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art is showing over 200 animated films, and Zagreb Film’s great documentary and feature film production, all screened during the exhibition at the Gorgona Hall of the Museum of Contemporary Art. The exhibition is also showcasing Zagreb Film’s valuable archive material for the first time − drawings, sketches, celluloids, authentic objects from the time, works of art from the collections of the Museum of Contemporary Art and other Croatian museums, and privately owned artworks. They are − and this during Croatia’s Presidency of the Council of the European Union − a story of the fantastic international successes of Croatia’s animators from the mid-1950s to date.

03 Borivoj Dovniković − Bordo, Ljubitelji cvijeća / Flower Lovers, 1971.

04 Boris Kolar, Vau − Vau / Woof − Woof, 1964.

05 Vatroslav Mimica, Jaje / Egg, 1959.

06 Dušan Vukotić, Surogat / Surrogate, 1961.

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Zagreb

VIZIJE GRADA − Ikonografija grada II. (1950. − 2000. +) City Visions − City Iconography II (1950-2000+) Piše/By _ Lana Šetka 01

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razgledati do 23. veljače 2020. zasigurno će ostati u pamćenju mnogih, a kroz bogato ilustriran katalog sačuvana i za buduće generacije. Vizualni identitet izložbe potpisuju Rašić+Vrabec.

In December, Zagreb’s Modern Gallery opened the City Visions − City Iconography II (1950-2000+) exhibition. This attractive multimedia and interdisciplinary exhibition, authored by curator and museum advisor at the Modern Gallery Željko Marciuš together with associates as co-authors, is a sequel to the 2010 City Iconography in Croatian Painting of the First Half of the 20th Century hit exhibition, which was viewed by 30,000 visitors and declared Exhibition of the Year by the Croatian Museum Association. Through more than 500 works (paintings, drawings, comic book drawings, posters, graphics, cartoons, objects, installations, art photography, video art, feature and animated films, etc.) organised into fifteen thematic units, the exhibition sheds light on the motif of the City in the visual arts and communications. It also highlights the importance of the City as a motif, a poetic generator, a sociological and cultural-historical setting, as a space and place where the artists themselves live and work. In this exhibition, the City is thought of as a metropolis and/ or a city with elements of a metropolis where the idea of modernity and contemporaneity has historically been felt, and this from Zagreb to New York − that is, any city in Croatia or the world interpreted by the artists. The exhibition was set up and designed by Ante Rašić, Marko Rašić and

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01 Edo Murtić, Highway, 1952.

02 Nenad Vorih, Point of no return, 2013.

03 Luka Mjeda, New York Twins, 1988.

Vedrana Vrabec as a multimedia exhibition, featuring a rich learning programme that includes thematic workshops for children and adults, professional and targeted guided tours, and film screenings. This city story, which closes on 23rd February 2020, will surely remain in the memory of many, and preserved for future generations thanks to a richly illustrated exhibition catalogue. The visual identity of the exhibition was authored by Rašić+Vrabec.

Fotografije/Photos: Arhiva Moderne galerije / Modern Gallery archives, Zagreb

Zagrebačka Moderna galerija u prosincu kulturnoj javnosti predstavlja multimedijalnu i interdisciplinarnu izložbu VIZIJE GRADA - Ikonografija grada II. (1950.

- 2000.+). Ova atraktivna multimedijalna i interdisciplinarna izložba u autorskoj koncepciji Željka Marciuša, muzejskog savjetnika Moderne galerije, i stručnih suradnika − koautora nastavak je likovne uspješnice iz 2010., Ikonografija grada u hrvatskom slikarstvu prve polovice 20. stoljeća, koju je razgledalo 30.000 posjetitelja, a Hrvatsko muzejsko društvo proglasilo izložbom godine. Uz više od 500 radova (slika, crteža, stripova, plakata, grafika, karikatura, objekata, instalacija, umjetničke fotografije, video-arta, igranog i animiranog filma i dr.), izložba će kroz petnaest tematsko-oblikovnih cjelina kod publike osvijestiti motiv Grada u vizualnim umjetnostima i komunikacijama, ali i uputiti na njegovu važnost kao motiva, poetskoga generatora, sociološke i kulturno-povijesne odrednice, prostora te mjesta unutar kojega i umjetnici žive i djeluju. Grad se na ovoj izložbi promišlja kao velegrad i/ili grad s elementima velegrada u kojem se povijesno osjeća ideja modernosti i suvremenosti od Zagreba do New Yorka, odnosno bilo kojega grada u zemlji ili svijetu koji su naši umjetnici interpretirali. U multimedijalnom postavu, koji su osmislili Ante Rašić, Marko Rašić i Vedrana Vrabec, uz bogat pedagoško-edukativni program koji uključuje tematske radionice za djecu i odrasle, stručna i ciljana vodstva, održat će se i filmske projekcije. Ova gradska priča koja se u Modernoj galeriji može

Advantages of Zagreb Card: — Unlimited access to public transportation —Free admission to city attractions

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Free admission to the Museum of the City of Zagreb, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb 360° – Zagreb Eye observation deck, and the Zagreb ZOO. For more information, visit our website at www.zagrebcard.com CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Rijeka

Rijeka u 2020. godini postaje središte europske kulture Rijeka is the 2020 hotspot of European culture Fotografije/Photos _ Borko Vukosav, Bojan Mrđenović, Tanja Kanazir 01

U 2020. godini, kada Hrvatska bude predsjedala Vijećem Europske unije, Rijeka će, kao najveća hrvatska luka, pod sloganom Luka različitosti biti središte kulturno-umjetničkog programa, domaćin najboljim i najzanimljivijim umjetnicima svjetske, europske i hrvatske kulturne scene. Naime, u toj je istoj godini Rijeka europska prijestolnica kulture. Smještena između mediteranskoga, srednjoeuropskog i istočnoeuropskog utjecaja, u posljednjih sto godina Rijeka se razvijala u čak sedam različitih država. Nalikujući po tome Europi u malome, postala je mjesto dinamičnog života, simbol slobodarskog duha i progresivnih ideja, grad u koji su oduvijek svi dobrodošli. U 2020. godini, u sklopu projekta Europske prijestolnice kulture, Rijeka gradi i otvara nove zgrade i objekte kulture sufinancirane sredstvima fondova EU-a te donosi više od 600

kulturno-umjetničkih i ostalih događanja, u čijem stvaranju sudjeluje više od 250 kulturnih ustanova i organizacija iz Hrvatske i 40 drugih zemalja Europe i svijeta.

In 2020 − during Croatia’s Presidency of the Council of the European Union − Croatia’s largest port, Rijeka, will be a cultural and art hotspot, hosting the best and most interesting artists of the world, Europe and Croatia’s culture and art scene, and this under the slogan Port of Diversity. More specifically, Rijeka is the 2020 European Capital of Culture. Situated at the crossroads where the Mediterranean, Central European and Eastern European influences meet, over the last hundred years Rijeka has been developing in seven different countries. Being a small-scale semblance of Europe thanks to this, it has become a place where life is dynamic, a symbol of

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the spirit of libertarianism and progressive ideas, a city that has always welcomed all.

In 2020, as part of the European Capital of Culture project, Rijeka’s erecting and opening new buildings and cultural facilities co-financed by EU funds, and bringing over 600 arts, cultural and other events, in whose creation and production over 250 cultural institutions and organisations from Croatia and 40 other countries from Europe and the world have been involved.

01 Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca u Rijeci Ivan pl. Zajc Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka 02 Svjetlosni kolaž na budućoj Dječjoj kući A light collage on the future Children’s House 03 Otvorenje dječjeg festivala Tobogan The opening of the Tobogan Children’s Festival 03

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Dubrovnik

Črobna zima u Dubrovniku Dubrovnik’s magical winter

Piše/By Turistička zajednica grada Dubrovnika Dubrovnik Tourist Board

Arhiva Dubrovačkog zimskog festivala / Dubrovnik Winter Festival archives

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Turistička zajednica grada Dubrovnika već šestu godinu organizira Subotnje zimsko jutro u Gradu. Svake subote od 9. studenoga 2019. do 28. ožujka 2020. u 10 sati organizira se besplatan razgled stare gradske jezgre s vodičem na engleskom jeziku. Nakon razgleda stare gradske jezgre sa stručnim vodičem Turistička zajednica grada Dubrovnika poklanja nastup Folklornog ansambla Linđo s početkom u 11.30 ispred crkve sv. Vlaha.

Jedinstvenu blagdansku atmosferu Dubrovnika možete sjajno doživjeti tijekom mjeseca prosinca i šestog izdanja Dubrovačkog zimskog festivala, uz zvuke tradicionalne kolende i uživanje u gastro ponudi blagdanskih kućica postavljenih na dubrovačkim trgovima i ulicama.

Doživjeti blage dubrovačke zime ima poseban čar. Mirno zimsko vrijeme idealno je za istraživanje svih ljepota koje

nudi Dubrovnik. Bogat i raznolik izbor događanja, s naglaskom na Dubrovački zimski festival, ali i događanja kao što su Festa sv. Vlaha, Valentinovo, Dubrovački karnevo te Festa od kamenica, obuhvaćaju tradiciju i običaje cijeloga dubrovačkog kraja.

For six years, the Dubrovnik Tourist Board has been organising Saturday Winter Mornings in Dubrovnik. Every Saturday until 28th March 2020, you can take a free guided tour of the old town in English starting at 10 am, which is followed by a performance of the Linđo Folklore Ensemble starting at 11:30 am outside the Church of St. Blaise. During the month of December and the sixth edition of the Dubrovnik Winter Festival, make sure you take in some of Dubrovnik’s special festive season atmosphere, including the sounds of Dubrovnik’s traditional carolling called kolenda, and the tastes and smells of festive food offered at Christmas market stalls along the streets and squares of Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik’s mild winter is a special and charming experience. Its calm winter weather is ideal for exploring all the attractions Dubrovnik has to offer, including many different facilities for all visitors during any season, winter included. There’s a rich and varied selection of events to choose from, with an emphasis on the Dubrovnik Winter Festival, and other events, such as the Feast Day of St. Blaise, Saint Valentine’s Day, Dubrovnik’s Karnevo carnival and the Oyster Festival, all embracing the traditions and customs of the entire region of Dubrovnik.

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01 Doček nove godine na Stradunu A New Year’s Eve party on Stradun 02 Čarobni blagdanski ugođaj A magical holiday atmosphere 03 Zabavni dječji program A children’s entertainment programme

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Prosinac December

and in Zagreb’s city centre. snowqueentrophy.com

Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings

Noć muzeja 2020.

Ivana Franke, Tommy Grönlund

31. 1. 2020., diljem Hrvatske / across Croatia Ovu Noć muzeja povezujemo s dvije velike obljetnice − 200 godina postojanja i rada Arheološkog muzeja Split i 140 godina Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu, a u njoj sudjeluju mnogi hrvatski gradovi.

This year’s Museum Night is marking two major anniversaries − the 200th anniversary of Split’s Archaeological Museum and the 140th anniversary of Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts − with many Croatian cities participating in the event. nocmuzeja.hr

2020 Museum Night

& Petteri Nisunen: Umjetničke intervencije u javnom prostoru Ivana Franke, Tommy Grönlund & Petteri Nisunen: Artistic inter-

do / until 1. 3. 2020., Rijeka Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti u sklopu programa Europske prijestolnice kulture priprema niz intervencija posvećenih temi javnog prostora koje će pridonijeti fizičkim i simboličkim modifikacijama urbanoga krajolika Rijeke. Svjetlosna instalacija Time Slip projekt je hrvatske umjetnice Ivane Franke i finskih umjetnika Tommyja Grönlunda i Petterija Nisunena.

As part of the European Capital of Culture project, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is preparing a series of interventions in public space that will contribute to the physical and symbolic modifications of Rijeka’s urban landscape. The Time Slip light installation is a project by Croatian artist Ivana Franke, and Finnish artists Tommy Grönlund and Petteri Nisunen. www.visitrijeka.hr Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Advent u Zagrebu Advent in Zagreb

do / until 7. 1. 2020., Zagreb Posjetite različite lokacije u gradu i uživajte u Adventu na Strossu i Caffeu de Matoš, Adventu

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MUO arhiva/archives

ventions in public space

u tunelu Grič, u Božićnoj bajci u srcu Zagreba i Ledenom parku...

Ove zime glazbenim će carstvom zaFULirati više od 80 izvođača, a održat će se i glazbeni program u zatvorenoj i toploj kupoli.

Make sure you visit the many locations in the city and enjoy Advent at Stross and Caffe de Matoš, Advent in the Grič Tunnel, the Christmas fairy-tale in the heart of Zagreb, the Ice Park, etc.

This winter, over 80 artists are performing at Fuliranje Gourmingle, with music performances given in an enclosed and heated dome as well. www.adventzagreb.com Advent u MUO Advent at the Museum of Arts and Craft

do / until 12. 1. 2020., Zagreb Ovogodišnji Advent u MUO želi približiti popularni balet Orašar djeci i odraslima. Posjetitelji će moći uživati u raskošnoj scenografiji i baletnim kostimima s predstave.

This year’s Advent at the museum aims to bring the popular Nutcracker ballet closer to both children and adults. You’ll feast your eyes

on The Nutcracker’s luxurious stage designs and ballet costumes. www.muo.hr

Siječanj January Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Snow Queen Trophy 2020 2020 Snow Queen Trophy

5. i/and 6. 1. 2020., Zagreb Na atraktivnim utrkama na zagrebačkome Sljemenu sudjeluju najbolji slalomaši iz cijeloga svijeta. Vrhunska organizacija i sjajna atmosfera svrstala je Zagreb uz bok najuglednijim svjetskim skijalištima. Očekuje vas dobra zabava i gastronomska ponuda na Sljemenu i u središtu grada.

These attractive ski races on Zagreb’s Sljeme are participated in by the best slalom skiers from around the world. The brilliant organisation and an even more brilliant atmosphere have ranked Zagreb amongst the grandest ski resorts in the world. The races are rounded off by a brilliant entertainment programme, and an offer of foods and drinks on both Sljeme

Karlovac i okolica Karlovac and surroundings 47. ZILIK 47th Winter Art Colony

27. − 31. 1. 2020., Karlovac ZILIK je zimska likovna kolonija koja se održava od 1974. godine.

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PODUZETNICI, PRONAĐITE NOVE KUPCE UZ POMOĆ OGLAŠAVANJA NA INTERNETU! Hrvatski Telekom vam nudi potpunu uslugu uz najbolje alate za oglašavanje: Google i Facebook oglase, savjetovanja i analize te digitalne edukacije i seminare kako biste pronašli nove kupce i ostvarili prilike za rast!

Više informacija na hrvatskitelekom.hr/poslovni/svijetboljihmogucnosti.

Posjetite najbliže T prodajno mjesto ili nazovite 0800 9100.

#SvijetBoljihMogucnosti

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Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings Riječki karneval

Ožujak March

Come and join a myriad of masks, and be part of the good mood on the streets of Rijeka. www.rijecki-karneval.hr

Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings ZagrebDox

Veljača February Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Koncert Luke Šulića u Lisinskom Luka Šulić performing at the Lisinski Concert Hall

5. 2. 2020., Zagreb Violončelist Luka Šulić u Zagrebu će nam se predstaviti sa svojim novim glazbenim projektom Četiri godišnja doba i prvi je glazbenik koji će izvesti ovo Vivaldijevo djelo aranžirano za violončelo i orkestar.

Cellist Luka Šulić is presenting himself to Zagreb’s audience with his new Four Seasons music project, and is the first musician to perform Vivaldi’s piece arranged for the cello and orchestra. www.lisinski.hr

TZ Dubrovnik

Ova humanitarna kolonija otvara se 27. 1. u Gradskom kazalištu Zorin dom izložbom doajena hrvatske likovne umjetnosti, a ta je čast ove godine pripala akademskom slikaru Damiru FacanuGrdiši. Na izložbi Konfrontacija prostora možete razgledati izbor impresivnih recentnih radova Damira Facana-Grdiše izvedenih u tehnici akvarela.

ZILIK is a winter art colony that has been organised since 1974. This charity art colony opens on 27th January at the Zorin Dom City Theatre with an exhibition of the work of a doyenne of Croatian art − this year this honour was conferred on academic painter Damir Facan-Grdiša. The Confrontation of Space exhibition is displaying a selection of his impressive recent works in watercolour. www.facebook.com/ZILIK.Zimska.likovna.kolonija/

This is one of the oldest carnival festivities in Croatia, with which the residents of Samobor and their guests bid the winter farewell, and welcome the season of spring and the forthcoming year. During the ten days or so of the carnival, the streets of this picturesque town are overflowing with fancy carnival masks and joy. www.fasnik.com

15. − 22. 3. 2020., Zagreb Ovaj međunarodni festival dokumentarnog filma poseban naglasak stavlja na regionalni program, zbog čega je posebno zanimljiv za one koji se na jednome mjestu žele upoznati s recentnom regionalnom produkcijom. Osim natjecateljskih ZagrebDox nudi i nenatjecateljske programe.

This is an international documentary film festival that places special emphasis on the regional programme, which makes it particularly interesting to all who’re looking to find out about the latest regional production in one place. Besides a competition programme, ZagrebDox is also bringing non-competition programmes. zagrebdox.net

Rijeka Carnival

E. Tuzlak

17. 1. − 26. 2. 2020., Rijeka Međunarodna karnevalska povorka kruna je karnevalskih svečanosti na Kvarneru i šire. Stoga, pridružite se mnoštvu maski i prepustite izvrsnom raspoloženju na ulicama Rijeke.

The International Carnival Parade is the jewel in the crown of carnival festivities in Kvarner and beyond.

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Samobor Carnival

14. − 25. 2. 2020., Samobor Ovaj je fašnik jedna od najstarijih pokladnih svečanosti u Hrvatskoj, kojom se Samoborci opraštaju od zime i otvaraju proljeću i predstojećoj godini. Desetak dana ulicama toga lijepoga grada vladaju maštovite maske i veselje.

Dubrovnik i okolica Dubrovnik and surroundings Festa sv. Vlaha The Feast of St. Blaise

2. − 9. 2. 2020., Dubrovnik Sv. Vlaho zaštitnik je grada Dubrovnika, a Festa svetoga Vlaha nematerijalna je svjetska baština UNESCO-a. Jedinstvena je to proslava koja se više od tisuću godina obilježuje katoličkim obredima i procesijom ulicama stare gradske jezgre i nizom zanimljivih događanja.

St. Blaise is the patron saint of Dubrovnik, with the Feast of St. Blaise having made it to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

This is a one-of-a-kind festivity that has been celebrated for over a thousand years with Roman Catholic ceremonies, a procession through the streets of the old town and a whole host of interesting events. www.tzdubrovnik.hr

J. Duval

Samoborski fašnik

Pula i okolica Pula and surroundings Istarska zimska liga u trčanju Istrian Winter Running League

do / until 1. 3. 2020., Vodnjan Petnaesto izdanje ove utrke svjedoči o popularnosti trčanja na Istarskom poluotoku. Kao i prethodnih godina trči se devet kola, od studenoga do ožujka, u različitim istarskim mjestima.

The 15th edition of this race testifies to the popularity of running on the Istrian peninsula. As in previous years, nine rounds are run from November to March in various towns in Istria. www.istra.hr

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka.

Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna.

Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje.

Hrvatska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland.

It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs.

There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited.

The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna.

The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center.

The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013.

Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine,

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treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova.

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka.

Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku.

Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is cha-

racterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era.

Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.

The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju.

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata.

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism.

Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its

national carrier, as well as other airliners.

Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever. If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland.

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna je na ziv novËane je dinice Republike Hrvatske. U optje caju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp), (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje

kre ditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euro Ëekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth. Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Expre ss, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

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OBLJETNICA ANNIVERSARIE

Croatia Airlines obilježio 30. obljetnicu osnutka Croatia Airlines celebrated its 30th anniversary

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roatia Airlines je 17. rujna u svojemu tehničkom središtu u zagrebačkoj zračnoj luci svečano obilježio 30. obljetnicu osnutka.

Na prigodnoj svečanosti sudjelovali su predsjednik Vlade Republike Hrvatske Andrej Plenković, izaslanik predsjednice Republike Hrvatske Kolinde Grabar-Kitarović i ministar pomorstva, prometa i infrastrukture Oleg Butković, visoki predstavnici hrvatskoga političkog života, izvršni direktor Star Alliancea Jeffrey Goh,

U 30 godina postojanja nacionalni avioprijevoznik izrastao je, u europskim okvirima, u zrakoplovnu tvrtku srednje veličine, koja daje važan doprinos razvoju hrvatskoga gospodarstva. Croatia Airlines je peti hrvatski izvoznik po veličini, a zrakoplovima naše aviokompanije u Hrvatsku dolazi gotovo jedna trećina svih avioturista na godišnjoj razini. U ovoj slavljeničkoj godini zabilježili smo i našega četrdesetmilijuntog putnika.

S. Dolenec

Piše/By _ Davor Janušić i/and Dubravka Prpić Znaor

In the 30 years of its existence, Croatia’s flag carrier airline has grown into a medium-sized European airline, which has been contributing significantly to the development of Croatia’s economy. Croatia Airlines is Croatia’s fifth largest exporter and, on an annual level, almost one-third of all tourists travelling to Croatia by air travel aboard our aircraft. In our anniversary year, we’ve also recorded our forty millionth passenger.

predstavnici međunarodnih zrakoplovnih udruga i organizacija, mnogi poslovni partneri tvrtke iz zemlje i inozemstva te zaposlenici kompanije na čelu s predsjednikom Uprave Jasminom Bajićem. Čelni čovjek Croatia Airlinesa u svojem obraćanju prisutnima podsjetio je da se povijest hrvatske zrakoplovne tvrtke počela pisati 7. kolovoza 1989. godine, kada je u registar Trgovačkog suda u Zagrebu upisan Zagreb Airlines d.d. (Zagal), poduzeće za zračni prijevoz. Zagal je s radom počeo u prosincu iste godine pružajući uslugu prijevoza poštanskih pošiljaka, a 23. srpnja 1990. godine promijenio je ime u Croatia Airlines d.d. te postao nacionalna aviokompanija za prijevoz putnika, robe i pošte. S putničkim prijevozom počelo se 5. svibnja 1991. godine, kada je unajmljenim zrakoplovom MD-82 obavljen prvi let u domaćem prometu i to na liniji Zagreb − Split. Godinu poslije, 5. travnja 1992., tvrtka je obavila i prvi međunarodni let Zagreb − Frankfurt, čime je počelo povezivanje Hrvatske s Europom i svijetom. U 30 godina postojanja Croatia Airlines izrastao je, u europskim okvirima, u zrakoplovnu kompaniju srednje veličine, a u tom je razdoblju postao članom naj-

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obavili su više od 600.000 letova i prevezli gotovo 40.000.000 putnika. Izravno lete u 38 odredišta, od čega 30 međunarodnih i 8 domaćih hrvatskih, pritom povezujući Hrvatsku s 24 europske države.

Vodeća hrvatska modna i tekstilna kompanija, Varteks d.d. za rođendansko slavlje te uz podršku Croatia Airlinesa osmislila je poseban poklon. Ta stogodišnja modna kuća u posljednjih nekoliko mjeseci ima vidljiviji i aktivniji položaj na našemu modnom nebu, a suradnja ovih dvaju hrvatskih megabrendova događaj je za pamćenje!

Martina Vrdoljak Ranilović, koja je nedavno sjela na mjesto kreativne direktorice Varteksa, predstavila je na proslavi 30. rođendana Croatia Airlinesa vlastitu viziju moderne stjuardese te letačkog i zemaljskog osoblja. Umjesto modela pistom je u Varteksovim predivnim uniformama šetalo osoblje Croatia Airlinesa, što je dodatno začinilo ionako slavljeničku atmosferu. − Kad smo planirali kolekciju za Croatia Airlines − istaknula je Martina − shvatili smo da je najbolje da napravimo kreacije koje će sublimirati sve naše slike iz podsvijesti, a koje ocrtavaju romantičnu viziju

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S. Dolenec

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01 Jasmin Bajić, predsjednik Uprave Croatia Airlinesa, zahvalio je zaposlenicima na stručnosti i brižnosti, a poslovnim partnerima i putnicima na vjernosti Jasmin Bajić, CEO of Croatia Airlines, thanked the employees for their professionalism, and care and attention, and business partners and passengers for their loyalty 02 Čestitajući Croatia Airlinesu, predsjednik Vlade Andrej Plenković istaknuo je koliko Hrvatskoj treba nacionalna aviokompanija Congratulating Croatia Airlines, Prime Minister Andrej Plenković emphasised that Croatia can’t do without a national airline 03 Jeffrey Goh, izvršni direktor Star Alliancea, zahvalio je Croatia Airlinesu na 15 godina vjernosti u tom najvećem zrakoplovnom savezu Jeffrey Goh, CEO of Star Alliance, thanked Croatia Airlines for 15 years of loyalty to the world’s biggest airline alliance

važnijih zrakoplovnih udruženja kao što su Međunarodna udruga za zračni promet (IATA) i Star Alliance, najveći zrakoplovni savez aviokompanija. Nacionalni avioprijevoznik daje važan doprinos razvoju hrvatskog turizma jer omogućuje cjelogodišnju povezanost hrvatskih odredišta i Hrvatske sa svijetom. U zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa u Hrvatsku dolazi gotovo jedna trećina svih avioturista na godišnjoj razini, a kompanija je peti najveći izvoznik u Republici Hrvatskoj.

Flota Croatia Airlinesa sastoji se od dvanaest zrakoplova: četiri Airbusa A319, dva Airbusa 320 i šest turboprop zrakoplova Dash 8-Q400. Od prvoga komercijalnog leta do danas, zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa

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pilota i stjuardesa, elegantnih i nostalgičnih slika našeg djetinjstva. Pokušali smo te slike transponirati u današnje, moderno vrijeme, i kolekcija je zapravo fuzija nečega što je bilo i nečega što

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će biti. Ljudi koji nose uniforme ujedno prezentiraju ugled kompanije i iznimno je važno da cijelo vrijeme izgledaju uredno, dotjerano i elegantno.

Materijali su vrhunski te na tome Varteksov tim nije štedio. Naime, riječ je o najfinijoj vuni, laganoj i udobnoj te idealnoj za svakodnevno korištenje. Na pisti je predstavljena proširena kolekcija, puno veća nego što kompaniji uistinu treba.

Varteksovu je timu važno je da je finalni rezultat ugodna, funkcionalna i praktična odjeća, dostojna osoblja jedne od naših najjačih kompanija.

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port services, and on 23rd July 1990 Zagal changed its name to Croatia Airlines joint stock company, having thus become Croatia’s national airline for the transportation of passengers, goods and mail. Passenger transport started on 5th May 1991, when the first domestic flight was operated flying passengers from Zagreb to Split aboard a rented MD-82 aircraft. A year later, on 5th April 1992, Croatia Airlines operated its first international flight from Zagreb to Frankfurt, which marked the beginning of Croatia’s connection with Europe and the world.

In the 30 years of its existence, Croatia Airlines has grown into a medium-sized European airline, during which it became a member of major aviation associations, such as the International Air Transport Association (IATA) and Star Alliance, the big-

T. Valent

n 17th September, Croatia Airlines celebrated its 30th anniversary at its technical centre at the Zagreb Airport. The Prime Minister of the Republic

of Croatia Andrej Plenković, the emissary of the President of the Republic of Croatia Kolinda Grabar-Kitarović and Minister of Maritime Affairs, Transport and Infrastructure Oleg Butković, high representatives of Croatian politics, the CEO of Star Alliance Jeffrey Goh, representatives of international aviation associations and organisations, many business partners from Croatia and abroad, and company employees led by the CEO of Croatia Airlines Jasmin Bajić attended the ceremony. In his address, Mr Bajić recalled that the history of Croatia Airlines started on 7th August 1989, when an airline company under the name of Zagreb Airlines (Zagal) was registered in the Company Register at the Commercial Court in Zagreb. Zagal started operating in December of the same year providing mail trans-

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gest airline alliance. Croatia’s national airline has been contributing significantly to the development of Croatian tourism because it connects Croatian destinations and Croatia with the world throughout the year.

On an annual level, almost one-third of all tourists travelling to Croatia by air travel aboard the aircraft of Croatia Airlines, and the company is the fifth largest exporter in the Republic of Croatia.

The fleet of Croatia Airlines consists of twelve aircraft: four A319 Airbuses, two A320 Airbuses and six Dash 8-Q400 turboprop aircraft. Since the company’s first commercial flight, Croatia Airlines has operated more than 600,000 flights, and has flown over 40,000,000 passengers. We fly directly to 38 destinations, of which 30 are international and 8 are domestic, connecting Croatia with 24 European countries.

Croatia’s leading fashion and textile com-

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pany, Varteks, designed a special gift for Croatia Airlines’ birthday celebration, and this with the support of Croatia Airlines.

This one-hundred-year-old fashion house has been making a comeback of sorts in recent months, and the collaboration of these two Croatian megabrands resulted in an event to be long remembered!

Martina Vrdoljak Ranilović, who recently became the Creative Director of Varteks, presented her own vision of a modern flight attendant, and flight and ground crew at the celebration of Croatia Airlines’ 30th anniversary. The beautiful uniforms designed and produced by Varteks were worn by Croatia Airlines’ employees instead of models, which further spiced up the already celebratory atmosphere. − When we were planning the Croatia Airlines collection − Martina emphasised − we realised that it was best to design creations which would sublimate all our images from the subconscious mind, and which would delineate a romantic vision of pilots and flight attendants, elegant and nostalgic images from our childhood. We’ve tried to transpose these images into the present,

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finest wool − lightweight, comfortable and ideal for everyday use − has been used.

Varteks’ expanded collection was presented on the catwalk, a collection much larger than the one the company needs. It’s important to the Varteks team that the final result is comfortable, functional and practical clothing, worthy of the crew of one of

Croatia’s strongest companies.

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modern time, and the collection is, in fact, a fusion of something that was and something that will be. People wearing uniforms also represent the company and its reputation, and it’s extremely important that they look neat, polished and elegant at all times.

The materials used are of excellent quality and the Varteks team spared no expense in selecting them. More specifically, only the

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VISA Gold Croatia Airlines kartica

Zvijezde posložene za nezaboravno putovanje

Uz Visa Gold Croatia Airlines karticu svakom kupnjom ste bliže putovanju iz snova!

Svakodnevnom kupnjom sakupljajte nagradne Miles & More milje te uživajte u brojnim pogodnostima: • 2.000 Miles & More nagradnih milja dobrodošlice • putno osiguranje • milje ne zastarijevaju* • kupnja na 24 rate bez kamata i naknada • dvostruke milje za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card putničkoj agenciji

*Vrijedi ako dobijete barem jednu milju mjesečno za kupnju karticom

PODRŽALI SMO LENDING OUR SUPPORT

Jedinstvena u Hrvatskoj: noćna utrka 00:24 RUN Croatia’s one-of-a-kind 00:24 RUN night race Piše/By _ Ksenija Žlof

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erodromske utrke imaju dugu tradiciju u svijetu, a zagrebačku je organizirala Međunarodna zračna luka Franjo Tuđman zajedno s 24sata. To je ujedno prva takva utrka organizirana u Hrvatskoj. Sudjelovalo je više od 1200 amaterskih i profesionalnih trkača koji su u 45 minuta morali istrčati jedan krug na stazi dugoj pet kilometara. Sredstva od kotizacija i dobrovoljne donacije organizatori su donirali Zakladi − dječja onkologija Rebro za izgradnju novog odjela dječje onkologije. Tijekom akcije prikupljeno je više od 150.000 kuna.

Natjecatelji su imali jedinstvenu priliku trčati okruženi civilnim i vojnim zrakoplovima − A320 Croatia Airlinesa, borbenim zrakoplovom MiG-21, Pilatusom PC-9M i OH-58D Kiowa Warrior Hrvatskoga

Pedesetak zaposlenika Croatia Airlinesa sudjelovalo je u noći s 28. na 29. rujna u humanitarnoj utrci na manevarskim površinama i dijelu uzletno-sletne staze zagrebačke zračne luke Franjo Tuđman.

A. Grubelić

Some fifty or so employees of Croatia Airlines partook in a charity night race on the manoeuvring area and part of the runway of Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman International Airport on the night of 28th September.

ratnog zrakoplovstva, a svaki njihov korak iz zraka je pratio helikopter MUP-a Mi-171Sh. Noćni ugođaj bio je spektakularan. Prije početka utrke organiziran je vatromet, a 300 metara prije prolaska kroz cilj trkači su simbolično pozdravljeni vodenim pozdravom aerodromskih vatrogasaca.

U muškoj konkurenciji pobijedio je Dino Bošnjak, a u ženskoj Mirjana Šimek Bilić.

Osvojili su nagradu u iznosu od 1500 kuna te povratne karte Croatia Airlinesa za odabranu međunarodnu destinaciju iz naše mreže odredišta. Svi na pobjedničkom postolju dobili su i unikatni pehar te posebno dizajnirane medalje. Najbrži u timu Croatia Airlinesa bili su Mara Pušec Debeljak i Miljenko Hršak.

Osim naših zaposlenika iz svih dijelova kompanije − administrativnog osoblja, operativaca, pilota, stjuardesa i mehaničara − među trkačima su, dakako, bili i zaposlenici Međunarodne zračne luke Franjo Tuđman, piloti i zrakoplovni tehničari iz sastava 91. i 93. zrakoplovne baze HRZ-a te kadeti iz Zrakoplovnog voda i Kadetske bojne Hrvatskog vojnog učilišta Dr. Franjo Tuđman. Najstariji natjecatelj bio je sedamdesetpetogodišnji

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irport runway races have a long tradition in the world. The one in Zagreb, co-organised by Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman International Airport and the 24sata (24hours in English translation) daily, was the first such race organised in Croatia. More than 1,200 amateur and professional runners participated, and they all had 45 minutes to run a five-kilometre lap. All race entry fees and voluntary contributions were donated by the organisers to the Rebro Children’s Oncology Foundation to help build a new children’s cancer unit. During the campaign, more than HRK 150,000 was raised.

Š. Lugarov

Š. Lugarov

Danijel Cessare, a najstarija natjecateljica sedamdesetogodišnja Jadranka Santini.

Neki od natjecatelja s nama su podijelili svoje dojmove. − Plemeniti i humanitarni cilj, izazovan ambijent i vrijeme, izvrsna organizacija i duljina od pet kilometara optimalna za masovnost utrke… sve je to unaprijed jamčilo uspješnost utrke 00:24 RUN. A to su potvrdila i sretna lica natjecatelja pri ulasku u cilj. Nadam se da će utrka postati tradicionalna − ističe sudionik utrke iz Croatia Airlinesa Domagoj Stjepan Dorotić, komercijalist za off line. − Divno je bilo trčati po pisti gdje polijeću i slijeću avioni u kojima sam ja svakodnevno. Taj osjećaj dao mi je poticaj da trčim još brže, još dalje... nisam htjela da prestane. Dok sam trčala, u mislima su mi bila dječica u bolnici za koju smo trčali i to da baš sada, u ovom trenutku ushićenja i uzbuđenja, njima dajem svoju malu pomoć i nadu u ozdravljenje. Sjajan osjećaj pun uzbuđenja, radosti i suosjećanja − rekla nam je voditeljica kabine zrakoplova Marina Pavičić.

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01 Sudjelovalo je više od 1200 amaterskih i profesionalnih trkača koji su u 45 minuta morali istrčati jedan krug na stazi dugoj pet kilometara More than 1,200 amateur and professional runners participated, and they all had 45 minutes to run a fivekilometre lap 02 U muškoj konkurenciji pobijedio je Dino Bošnjak, a u ženskoj Mirjana Šimek Bilić.

Osvojili su nagradu u iznosu od 1500 kuna te povratne karte Croatia Airlinesa Dino Bošnjak won the men’s race, and Mirjana Šimek Bilić the women’s race. Each won a prize worth HRK 1,500 and Croatia Airlines’ return air tickets

imagined in those moments of elation and excitement was that I was helping them by giving them cause for hope that they may recover. It was a fantastic feeling full of excitement, joy and compassion − said

Marina Pavičić, a purser.

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− Running for a noble cause and charity, a challenging environment and a challenging time limit, excellent organisation, running the distance of five kilometres, these are optimum conditions for such a mass race...

All of this guaranteed that the 00:24 RUN race would be a success. The runners’ happy faces as they crossed the finishing line were only proof of the success of the run. I hope the race becomes a tradition − says one of Croatia Airlines’ runners, Domagoj Stjepan Dorotić, an offline sales representative. − It was wonderful to run on the runway where the planes that I’m in every day land and take off. That feeling gave me the strength to run even faster, further...

I didn’t want it to stop. As I was running, my thoughts were with the children at the hospital that we were running for. What I

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The racers had the unique opportunity to run surrounded by both civil and military aircraft − a Croatia Airlines A320 Airbus, a MiG-21 fighter aircraft, a Pilatus PC-9M and an OH-58D Kiowa Warrior of the Croatian Air Force, with their steps monitored by a Mi-171Sh helicopter of the Ministry of the Interior of the Republic of Croatia.

The night atmosphere was spectacular!

A fireworks display was organised before the start of the race, and 300 metres before the finishing line, the runners were symbolically greeted with a water salute by airport fire-fighters.

Dino Bošnjak won the men’s race, and Mirjana Šimek Bilić the women’s race.

Each won a prize worth HRK 1,500 and a return air ticket to one of Croatia Airlines’ international destinations of their choice.

All on the podium also received an original cup and specially designed medals. The fastest runners in Croatia Airlines’ team were Mara Pušec Debeljak and Miljenko Hršak.

Besides our employees from all sectors of the company − administrative staff, operatives, pilots, flight attendants and mechanics − employees of the Franjo Tuđman International Airport, pilots and aircraft technicians from the 91st and 93rd Air Base of the Croatian Air Force, and cadets from the Air Force Squadron and the Cadet Battalion of the Franjo Tuđman Croatian Military Academy also partook in the race. The oldest male runner was the seventy-five-year-old Danijel Cessare, and the oldest female runner was the seventyyear-old Jadranka Santini. Some of the runners shared their impressions with us.

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ZAVRŠEN PROJEKT UGRADNJE OPREME EGNOS NA NAŠE ZRAKOPLOVE DASH Q400

Š. Lugarov

Krajem 2017. godine započet je projekt modernizacije flote zrakoplova Dash Q400 s ciljem korištenja satelitskog signala europskoga geostacionarnog satelitskog navigacijskog sustava EGNOS te slijetanja putem LPV prilaza. LPV prilazi (Localizer performance with vertical guidance) satelitski su vođeni precizni prilazi u cijelosti identični konvencionalnim ILS preciznim prilazima te zahtijevaju najmoderniju opremu zrakoplova koja može istodobno koristiti GPS i satelitski signal EGNOS. Projekt modernizacije osmišljen je u kompaniji te je proveden u suradnji svih odjela, uz poseban naglasak na sektoru tehničkih poslova, koji je samostalno proveo ovu zahtjevnu modifikaciju. Kvalitetu projekta vrijednosti od oko 5 milijuna kuna prepoznala je i Europska komisija te je proveden i sufinanciran putem programa CEF i uz pomoć agencije INEA, koja je odobrila sufinanciranje od 85% planiranih sredstava.

U prosincu 2019. godine projekt je uspješno okončan. Nova oprema pokazala je izniman stupanj navigacijske točnosti te će buduće pilotske procedure i njezino korištenje donijeti dodatno povećanje sigurnosti letačkih operacija.

Svakodnevna operacija flote Dash odvija se u zračnim lukama koje su većinom implementirale nove satelitski vođene procedure poput LPV-a. Croatia Airlines jedna je od prvih kompanija koje su uvele nove

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procedure te ovime prati najmodernije trendove. Osim povećane navigacijske preciznosti i sigurnosti operacija, kompanija očekuje napredak u manjoj potrošnji goriva te manjoj emisiji štetnih plinova.

Davor Mišić, šef pilota DASH-8 Q400: - S pilotskog stajališta, LPV prilazi pokazali su se kao vrlo pouzdan i siguran novi oblik prilaza koji će koristeći naprednu tehnologiju vrlo vjerojatno u skoroj budućnosti i zamijeniti dosadašnje konvencionalne prilaze. Prednosti korištenja LPV prilaza u trenutnoj operaciji vidljive su ponajprije u zračnim lukama koje do sada nisu imale mogućnost preciznog navođenja zrakoplova za slijetanje, a posebno kad je riječ o letovima u složenim meteorološkim uvjetima.

THE PROJECT OF INSTALLING EGNOS EQUIPMENT ON OUR DASH Q400 AIRCRAFT COMPLETED The end of 2017 saw the beginning of a project − modernising Croatia Airlines’ Dash Q400 fleet, aiming to enable its aircraft to use the satellite signal of the European Geostationary Navigation Overlay Service (EGNOS) and to facilitate landing using the Localiser Performance with Vertical Guidance (LPV) approach procedure. The LPV approach is a satellite-guided precision landing approach which is completely identical to the conventional Instrument Landing System (ILS) approach, but requires state-of-the-art aircraft equipment capable of simultaneously using the GPS and the EGNOS satellite signal.

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NOVOSTI NEWS

This modernisation project was planned and developed by Croatia Airlines, and its execution involved collaboration between all company sectors, with particular emphasis on the technical sector, which executed this demanding modification independently. The quality of the project, valued at approximately HRK 5 million, was also recognised by the European Commission, and was completed with the help of and co-financed through the Connecting Europe Facility (CEF) programme, and with the assistance of the Innovation and Networks Executive Agency (INEA), which approved co-financing the project with 85% of the funds planned for the project.

In December 2019, the project was successfully completed. The new equipment facilitates an exceedingly high degree of navigation precision, and so its use during pilot operations will further increase the safety of flight operations.

Croatia Airlines’ Dash fleet flies daily to and from airports most of which have already implemented new satellite-guided approach procedures, such as the LPV. Croatia Airlines is one of the first companies to have introduced such a new approach procedure, proving that, with this project, the company’s been following the latest trends. In addition to improving navigation precision and increasing operation safety, the company’s also expecting to reduce fuel consumption and greenhouse gas emissions.

Davor Mišić, DASH-8 Q400 Chief Pilot: − From a pilot’s point of view, the LPV approach has proven to be a very reliable and safe new approach procedure that’s very likely to, by using advanced technology, replace conventional landing approaches in the near future. The advantages of using the LPV approach in current operations are evident primarily at airports that have been unable to guide aircraft to precision land, particularly when needing to deal with complex meteorological conditions.

SUDJELOVALI SMO NA SKUPU EHTI Hrvatska turistička zajednica bila je glavni partner 9. European Health Tourism Industry Summita (EHTI), održanoga 20. i 21. studenoga u Bruxellesu. Riječ je o vodećem europskom skupu o zdravstvenom turizmu, koji je okupio stotinjak nacionalnih i međunarodnih stručnjaka te vrhunske predavače i paneliste. Na svečanom otvorenju skupa održanome u Europskom parlamentu sudjelovao je direktor Hrvatske turističke zajednice Kristjan Staničić koji je, uz europarlamentarce Istvána Ujhelyija i Karimu Delli, održao pozdravni govor. − Kroz stručna međunarodna okupljanja poput ovoga pridonosimo daljnjem pozicioniranju Hrvatske kao renomirane destinacije zdravstvenog turizma, što u konačnici doprinosi i održivom razvoju hrvatskog turizma u cjelini − istaknuo je, između ostalog, direktor Staničić.

Naša kompanija imala je status Silver&Networking Partnera s obzirom na to da aktivno pridonosi turističkoj ponudi Hrvatske. − Cjelokupna mreža letova Croatia Airlinesa tijekom turističke sezone, kao i u razdoblju izvan sezone u kojem postoji značajan potencijal za daljnji rast, izvrsna su podloga za razvoj zdravstvenog turizma te će nacionalni avioprijevoznik i dalje pružati snažnu podršku na tom području − istaknuo je na skupu Slaven Žabo, naš direktor komercijalnih poslova.

The Croatian National Tourist Board was the HTI Gold & Country Partner of the 9th European Health Tourism Industry (EHTI) Summit, held on 20th and 21st November in Brussels. EHTI is Europe’s leading health tourism convention, which brought together around one hundred national and international experts, and highly trained speakers and panellists. The opening ceremony of the summit held at the European Parliament was attended by the Director of the Croatian National Tourist Board, Mr Kristjan Staničić, who − together with MEPs István Ujhelyi and Karima Delli − delivered one of the three welcome speeches. − By participating in international conventions such as this one, we’re contributing to the positioning of Croatia as a reputable health tourism destination, which ultimately contributes to the sustainable development of Croatia’s tourism as a whole − said Director Staničić.

Actively contributing to Croatia’s tourism offer, our company was the summit’s HTI Silver & Networking Partner. − Croatia Airlines’ flight network as a whole during both the tourist season and the offseason, when there is significant potential for further growth, is an excellent basis for the development of health tourism.

Croatia’s flag carrier will continue to provide strong support in this − pointed out Slaven Žabo, our Commercial Division Director.

PREVEZLI SMO 40 MILIJUNTOG PUTNIKA Na letu iz Frankfurta u Zagreb (OU417) 12. studenoga 2019. zabilježili smo

svojeg četrdesetmilijuntog putnika. Naša je jubilarna putnica gospođa Ivanka Čandrlić iz Zaboka.

Na prigodnoj svečanosti u zagrebačkoj zračnoj luci nagradili smo sretnu putnicu s dvije povratne karte u poslovnom razredu za europsko odredište po izboru.

Našu jubilarnu putnicu nagradila je i Međunarodna zračna luka Franjo Tuđman.

Iznimno nam je drago što smo četrdesetmilijuntog putnika zabilježili u 2019. godini, u kojoj slavimo 30. obljetnicu osnutka kompanije, i što smo jubilarnog putnika zabilježili na liniji na kojoj smo 1992. godine obavili svoj prvi međunarodni let i tako počeli povezivati Hrvatsku sa svijetom.

WE FLEW OUR 40 MILLIONTH PASSENGER On 12th November, we recorded our 40 millionth passenger on our flight from Frankfurt to Zagreb (OU417). Our 40 millionth passenger is Mrs Ivanka Čandrlić from Zabok.

At a ceremony at Zagreb’s airport, the lucky passenger was awarded with two return business class tickets to one of Croatia Airlines’ international destinations of the passenger’s choice.

Our 40 millionth passenger was also awarded by Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman International Airport. We’re delighted to have recorded our 40 millionth passenger in 2019, the year in which we’re celebrating our 30th anniversary, and this on the same route that we operated our first ever international flight in 1992, with which we started connecting Croatia with the world.

Š. Lugarov

Ž. Šitum

Ž. Šitum

WE ATTENDED THE EHTI SUMMIT

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UGOSTILI SMO SUDIONIKE MEGADO PUTOVANJA U sklopu tradicionalnog VIP putovanja pod nazivom MegaDo u organizaciji Star Alliancea, u Hrvatsku je sredinom listopada stigla grupa od gotovo stotinu zrakoplovnih entuzijasta i ljubitelja putovanja iz cijeloga svijeta.

MegaDo je programsko putovanje za ljubitelje putovanja, a uglavnom za česte putnike (frequent flyer) s prosječno 300.000 skupljenih milja, koji na ovakvim događajima imaju prigodu pobliže upoznati sudionike civilnoga zračnog prometa (avioprijevoznike, zračne luke itd.), saznati poslovne zanimljivosti te doživjeti posebnosti koje su nedostupne putnicima na komercijalnim letovima.

Naša je kompanija bila domaćin središnjeg dijela jubilarnoga desetog MegaDo putovanja te je ugostila sve sudionike na čarter letovima Hamburg − Dubrovnik i Dubrovnik − Zagreb, koji su obavljeni našim zrakoplovom Airbus 320.

Sudionici ovogodišnjeg putovanja susreli su se s menadžmentom naše tvrtke u zagrebačkoj zračnoj luci gdje su obišli naše tehničko središte i saznali mnoge zanimljivosti u vezi s poslovnim procesima. Također je organiziran i obilazak novoga putničkog terminala Zračne luke Franjo Tuđman.

WE HOSTED THIS YEAR’S MEGADO JOURNEY

A. Grubelić

As part of MegaDo, a traditional VIP journey organised

by Star Alliance, a group of almost one hundred aviation enthusiasts and travel junkies from around the world arrived in Croatia in mid-October. MegaDo is an annual behind-the-scenes event with a private charter flight for aviation enthusiasts, mostly frequent flyers with an average of 300,000 frequent flyer miles collected, who, at events such as MegaDo, have the opportunity to get to know those who partake in civil aviation (airlines, airports, etc.), to find out interesting business related facts, and to have a special experience of civil aviation related things which passengers on commercial flights cannot. Our company hosted the central part of the 10th MegaDo journey, having played host to all MegaDo passengers on the Hamburg-Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik-Zagreb charter flights operated by our Airbus 320 aircraft. The attendees of this year’s MegaDo journey met with the management of our company at Zagreb’s airport, where they visited our technical centre and learned many interesting facts about business processes. A tour of the new passenger terminal of Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman International Airport was also organised.

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PIKni pravu stvar za sebe!

Pick the right thing for yourself!

PIK proizvodi se proizvode bez pojaÄ?ivaÄ?a okusa, bez umjetnih bojila, bez glutena i bez soje, a imaju i smanjeni udio soli od 25%.

PIK products are produced without flavor enhancers, artificial colors, gluten or soy, and have a reduced salt content of 25%.

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PODRŽALI SMO LENDING OUR SUPPORT

Osmijeh iznad oblaka

Piše/By _ Davor Janušić; Fotografije/Photos _ Šime Lugarov

Smile above the clouds Croatia Airlines na svoju se 30. obljetnicu poslovanja uključio u obilježavanje tridesete obljetnice donošenja Konvencije o pravima djece te se u povodu Svjetskog dana djeteta pridružio globalnoj inicijativi UNICEF-a kojom se promiču dječja prava i koja djeci širom svijeta omogućuje da se čuje njihov glas. UNICEF Hrvatska pozvao je hrvatska poduzeća da otvore svoja vrata djeci, a nacionalni avioprijevoznik priključio se navedenoj inicijativi prigodnom akcijom Osmijeh iznad oblaka u sklopu koje je, na prijepodnevnom letu Zagreb − Dubrovnik, u svojem zrakoplovu ugostio pedesetero djece iz udomiteljskih obitelji i njihove udomitelje okupljene oko udruge Forum za kvalitetno udomiteljstvo djece. Bila je to jedinstvena prigoda za djecu i udomitelje da dožive iskustvo letenja, a istodobno i mogućnost da bolje upoznaju poslovni svijet i kažu što misle o temama koje su im važne. Nakon slijetanja u Dubrovnik za drage goste organiziran je obilazak Zračne luke Dubrovnik, tijekom kojeg su predstavljeni poslovni procesi najjužnije hrvatske zračne luke, a cjelodnevni program završio je povratnim letom Dubrovnik − Zagreb. Veliku podršku Croatia Airlinesu u realizaciji ovog projekta pružili su ZL Dubrovnik, MZL Zagreb, Newrest Dubrovnik d.o.o. i Swissport International AG. On its 30th anniversary, Croatia Airlines decided to get involved in marking the 30th anniversary of the adoption of the Convention on the Rights of the Child. Accordingly, to mark the World Children’s Day, Croatia Airlines joined UNICEF’s global initiative for the promotion of children’s rights, enabling children worldwide to be heard. UNICEF Croatia called on Croatian companies to open their doors to children, and so Croatia’s flag carrier joined the initiative with our Smile above the clouds campaign,

by having hosted fifty children from foster families and their foster parents gathered around the Forum for Quality Foster Care on a morning flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik. This was a unique opportunity for the children and their foster parents to have a flying experience, to get to know the business world better and to say what they think about topics that are important to them. Once they landed in Dubrovnik, a tour of the Dubrovnik Airport was organised for our dear guests, during which the business processes of the southernmost Croatian airport were presented. The day trip ended with a return flight from Dubrovnik to Zagreb. The Dubrovnik Airport, Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman International Airport, Newrest Dubrovnik Ltd. and Swissport International Ltd. gave Croatia Airlines their whole-hearted support in implementing this project.

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Visa Gold Croatia Airlines kartica - 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potrošene preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja - 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike - 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana - Putno osiguranje - Milje ne zastarijevaju - Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela

PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS

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EN >

i Croatia Airlines card - 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users - Travel insurance - Miles do not expire - Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croatia Airlines and PBZ Card Travel

Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica - 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja.

- Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaćajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.

- 2 kartice − 1 račun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na istom računu Miles & More.

Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card - 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile

VISA Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potrošnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potrošenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna Miles & More milja.

VISA Croatia Airlines credit card Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines standalone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 HRK spent via standalone credit card whereas for every 7 HRK spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Više informacija možete pronaći na:

Please find detailed info at:

www.milesandmore.com

www.milesandmore.com

- Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad - 2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account

k i n v o r b u D FLY TO

... because it is beautiful even in winter

T +385 20 773 100 F +385 20 773 322 E headoffice@airport-dubrovnik.hr www.airport-dubrovnik.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

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SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

8kg RUČNA PRTLJAGA

HAND BAGGAGE

Dopuštena ručna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda je 1 komad, a za putnike poslovnog razreda 2 komada (težine do 8 kg i zbroja dimenzija do 115 cm) Veće komade ručne prtljage spremite u pretince, a manje torbe označene privjeskom Prtljaga za avion stavite ispod sjedala ispred vas, osim u redovima kod izlaza za slučaj opasnosti.

Dodatno, svaki putnik može ponijeti u kabinu: - 1 komad osobne prtljage najveće dopuštene veličine 40x30x10 cm - putuje li s djetetom do 2 g. - 1 dječja kolica ili autosjedalicu ili nosiljku te hranu za bebe - bolesne i invalidne osobe mogu ponijeti ortopedska pomagala ili protetske naprave

The hand baggage allowance for economy class passengers is 1 piece and for business class passengers 2 pieces (weighing up to 8 kg, whose total sum of dimensions does not exceed 115 cm).

Your hand baggage must be stowed in overhead compartments. All smaller bags with a Carry-on Baggage tag must be placed under the seat in front of you, except in emergency exit rows.

Each passenger may additionally take into the passenger cabin the following: - 1 personal item whose maximum size does not exceed 40x30x10 cm (16x12x4 in); - each passenger travelling with a child under 2 years of age is also allowed to take aboard 1 infant's carrying basket or a fully collapsible stroller/pushchair or a car seat and baby food; - disabled passengers may also take 1 pair of crutches and/or braces or any other prosthetic device.

20 cm 100ml

30 cm

100ml

20 cm TEKUĆINE U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI U zrakoplov se smiju unositi: - tekućine kupljene u duty free prodavaonicama ili u zrakoplovu, pod uvjetom da su spremljene u prozirne plastične vrećice, zapečaćene prilikom kupnje (STEB) i ne smiju se otvarati do krajnjeg odredišta - tekućine pakirane u pojedinačnim pakiranjima do 100 ml ili 100 g u prozirnoj plastičnoj vrećici sa zatvaračem do 1 litre - tekućine koje se tijekom leta koriste u medicinske svrhe ili zbog posebnih prehrambenih potreba (dječja hrana).

Ostale tekućine mogu se prevoziti u predanoj prtljazi.

LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

Carry-on baggage

10 cm

Please place this bag under the seat in front of you.

The following can be taken aboard our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

40 cm

55 cm

20 cm

40 cm

154 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

- liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food).

Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage.

Cruise

o ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI U kabini se istodobno mogu prevoziti samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje mogu putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog veličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplova. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća u poslovnicama.

ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN On the same flight, only two animals can be transported at the same time either two dogs or two cats. The transportation of dogs and cats on the same flight is not permitted. A passenger can carry only one pet bag to be held under the seat in front of the passenger throughout the entire flight.

Animals that cannot be transported in the passenger cabin due to their size are transported in the aircraft hold if they meet certain conditions. Passengers are required to obtain all the necessary documentation. Animal transportation must be booked in advance at an additional charge to be paid in any branch office.

ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja.

Dopuštene elektroničke naprave: - mobilni / pametni telefoni - tablet računala - slušalice za suzbijanje buke - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji - elektroničke igre - e-čitači - prijenosna / notebook računala - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji - Bluetooth uređaji - kamere - medicinski uređaji - električni brijaći aparati Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja - samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

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The use of electronic devices is allowed only in airplane mode. Heavy and large devices must be stored away while the seat belt sign is on.

Electronic devices allowed aboard our aircraft: - mobile/smart telephones - tablet computers - noise-cancelling headphones - digital audio/MP3 players - electronic games - e-book readers - laptop/notebook computers - portable DVD/CD players - Bluetooth devices - cameras - medical devices - electric shavers Electronic devices not allowed aboard our aircraft: - electric smoking simulation devices - self-balancing devices that run on lithium batteries are not allowed in either your hand baggage or checked baggage

Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi.

To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd.

ITEMS NOT ALLOWED The carrying of hazardous items and materials in either your hand baggage or checked baggage is prohibited by law.

These are explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials, infectious substances and poisons, weapons, compressed gases, corrosive and oxidising agents, etc.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA Svi su obroci i pića u našim zrakoplovima besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem Sky shopu. Za posebne prigode postoji mogućnost kupnje torte i pjenušca koje poslužujemo na letu. Dopuštena je konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih pića koja su poslužena u zrakoplovu.

SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS All meals and drinks aboard our aircraft are free of charge, and the service offered depends on the travel class, the length of flight and the part of day of the flight.

During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Shop. For special occasions, a cake and sparkling wine can be purchased to be served during the flight. The consumption of only those alcoholic beverages that are served aboard our aircraft is allowed.

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Helsinki Oslo

Stockholm

St. Petersburg

Dublin Copenhagen

Amsterdam

London

Berlin Dusseldorf

Brussels Frankfurt

Paris

Prague

Munich

Vienna

ZĂźrich Lyon

Milan Venice

Zagreb

Pula

Lisbon

Osijek Belgrade Sarajevo

Zadar Split Bol Mostar Dubrovnik

Barcelona

Bucharest

Rijeka

Rome

Skopje

Athens

Tel Aviv

Code Share Partners

Star Aliance Members

Air Canada

Aegean

Eva Air

Air France

Air Canada

LOT Polish Airlines

Air India

Air China

Lufthansa

Alitalia

Air India

Scandinavian Airlines

Asiana

Air New Zealand

Shenzhen Airlines

Austrian Airlines

ANA - All Nippon Airways

Singapore Airlines

Brussels Airlines

Asiana Airlines

South African Airways

KLM

Austrian Airlines

Swiss

LOT Polish Airlines

Avianca

TAP Air Portugal

Lufthansa

Brussels Airlines

Thai Airways International

SAS

Copa Airlines

Turkish Airlines

Singapore Airlines

Croatia Airlines

United Airlines

Swiss International Air Lines

EgyptAir

read more at

TAP Portugal

Ethiopian Airlines

croatiaairlines.com/plan-book

Turkish Airlines

Ljetni red letenja / Summer timetable Zimski red letenja / Winter timetable

United Airlines

156 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

35,8 / 117

35,8 / 117

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg) 73 500

64 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

2

4

6

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

76

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

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Choose your path.

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3

Poletite iz Zagreba u Split, Pulu, Dubrovnik i Zadar, iz Pule u Zadar, kao i obratno, po cijeni karte u jednom smjeru veÄ&#x2021; od 254 kn!

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V. Ĺ olin

Fly one way between Zagreb and Split, Pula, Dubrovnik or Zadar, and between Pula and Zadar at prices starting from 254 kn!

AIRPORTS

Mobilna aplikacija Croatia Airlinesa vaš najbolji suputnik!

S. Jungić

Croatia Airlines mobile app your best travel companion!

Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals

Preuzmite našu mobilnu aplikaciju i imat ćete sve što vam je potrebno prije i za vrijeme leta nadohvat ruke: kupnja aviokarata, red letenja, status leta, check-in, ponude i još mnogo toga...

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Download it and have everything you need before and during your flight with us in the palm of your hand: flight booking, timetable, flight status, check-in, offers and more...

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ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION

ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT

TERMINAL

AMSTERDAM (AMS) ATHENS (ATH) BARCELONA (BCN) BELGRADE (BEG) BRUSSELS (BRU) PARIS (CDG) COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUSSELDORF (DUS) ROME (FCO) FRANKFURT (FRA) SAINT PETERSBURG (LED) LONDON GATWICK (LGW) LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) LISBON (LIS) LYON (LYS) MILAN (MXP) MUNICH (MUC) NICE (NCE) PRAGUE (PRG) SARAJEVO (SJJ) SKOPJE (SKP) TEL AVIV (TLV) BERLIN (TXL) VENICE (VCE) VIENNA (VIE) ZURICH (ZRH)

Schiphol Amsterdam Airport Athens International Airport Barcelona El Prat Airport Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport Brussels Airport Zaventem Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Copenhagen Airport Düsseldorf Airport Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport Frankfurt Airport St Petersburg Pulkovo Airport Gatwick Airport Heathrow Airport Lisbon International Airport Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport Malpensa Airport Munich Airport Nice Côte d'Azur International Airport Vaclav Havel Airport Prague Sarajevo International Airport Skopje Alexander the Great Airport Ben Gurion International Airport Berlin Tegel Airport Venice Marco Polo Airport Vienna Airport Zurich Airport

terminal 3 main terminal terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal B terminal 2D terminal 2 terminal A terminal 3 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal S terminal 2 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal 2 terminal 1 terminal B main terminal terminal 3 terminal A, C main terminal terminal 3 terminal 2

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information

plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr

www.plesoprijevoz.hr

ZAGREB

Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094

RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

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TRAVELLING?

Sabina Barbiš

Dragi putnici!

Na putovanjima svi moji snovi postaju stvarnost − sve što sam vidjela u knjigama i o čemu sam godinama maštala toliko je ljepše u zbilji da su putovanja moj apsolutni prioritet!

When travelling, all my dreams come true − everything I’ve ever seen in books and all I’ve dreamt about for years is so much more beautiful in reality that travelling is my absolute priority!

Zahvaljujemo svima koji su se potrudili i poslali nam fotografije s putovanja. Blagdansko zimsko doba također može biti privlačno za putovanja pa vas pozivamo da zabilježite posebne trenutke i podijelite ih s nama.

Uz jednu rečenicu u kojoj objašnjavate zašto volite putovati, pošaljite nam kvalitetnu fotografiju i sudjelujte. Autora najkreativnije fotografije nagradit ćemo s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odredišta Croatia Airlinesa, a druga dva dobitnika primit će naše promotivne pakete.

U ovom broju putnoga časopisa dvjema povratnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa za najbolju fotografiju nagrađujemo Sabinu Barbiš. Promotivnim paketom nagradit ćemo Mariju Barović i Moniku Alberti.

Posjetite našu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natječaji), pogledajte uvjete i sudjelujte.

Sretno!

Dear passengers!

We thank all of you who’ve put effort into sending us your travel photographs. Winter and the holiday season can also be very travel attractive, so we invite you to capture special moments and share them with us.

Explain to us why you like travelling in a single sentence and send us a quality photograph. The first prize winner and author of the most creative photograph will be awarded two return air tickets to one of Croatia Airlines’ destinations of her/his choice, and two consolation prize winners will each receive a gift package.

In this issue of our inflight magazine, Sabina Barbiš has been awarded two Croatia Airlines return air tickets for best photograph.

Marija Barović and Monika Alberti have each won a promotional gift package.

For the details of the competition and how to enter, please visit our website at www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Prize contest).

Good luck!

Putovanjem ne upoznajemo novo mjesto već nove nas kroz iskustva s novim mjestom.

When travelling, what we get to know is not a new place, but our new selves through experiences with a new place.

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Monika Alberti

Mislav Kuzmanić

Uživaj u svakom trenutku putovanja i nemoj zaboraviti ono dječje u sebi!

Enjoy every moment of your travels and don’t forget the child in you!

Postanite korisnik Premium Visa Gold kartice bez upisnine i članarine* • najveći paket osiguranja • najnaprednije beskontaktno plaćanje • najveći program nagrađivanja za vašu vjernost

www.pbz.hr

www.pbzcard-premium.hr

* Pogodnost vrijedi za prvu godinu korištenja Premium Visa Gold kartice, za sve pristupnice primljene od 3.7. do 31.12.2019.

Ovaj oglas je informativnog karaktera i ne predstavlja obvezujuću ponudu za PBZ i PBZ Card.

Bank o f CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2019

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Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Odnosi s korisnicima / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 http://www.croatiaairlines.com/hr/Zahtjev http://www.croatiaairlines.com/Claim Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia

Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 61-60-215 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr

Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 616 02 46 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012

Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Letzigraben 154, 8047 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Kaiserstrasse 7 60311 Frankfurt Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 frato@croatiaairlines.hr Paris 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka 51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Rome 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 romto@croatiaairlines.hr

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Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka / the Czech Republic CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 greece@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal APG - Portugal Rua Tenente Espanca, nº3 − 3º A, 1050 - 220 Lisboa Tel. +351 219 100 054 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr info@apg-portugal.com Rumunjska/Romania Specialised Aviation Services srl.

17d Emil Garleanu Str, Voluntari, Ilfov County Tel. +40 21 599 0108 romania@croatiaairlines.hr Rusija/Russia GRM (Global Russia Marketing) Bolshaya Sadovaya street 10, office 20, 123001 Moscow, Russia Tel. +7 495 981 14 00 ou.mow@grm-russia.com SlovaËka / Slovakia CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr

Srbija / Serbia Travel Centar d.o.o.

Topličin Venac 19-21 11000 Beograd Tel. +381 11 202 80 46 gsa.srbija@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT Rambla de Catalunya, 61 5º 3ª, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok / Middle East Izrael / Israel Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Indija / India STIC Travel Group 2nd Floor, Tower C, Cyber Greens, DLF Phase - III Gurgaon - 122002, New Delhi Ph: +91 (124) 4595300 croatia@sticgroup.com Contact person: Gurpreet Sangar Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Shimbashi Frontier Building, 7F 3-4-5 Shimbashi Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0004 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 croatiaairlines@bohramair.co.kr Tajvan / Taiwan Pacific Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 sales-service@pacificexpress.com.tw Kina / China Pacific Aviation Marketing 12H, Zaofong Universe Building 1800 West Zhong Shan Road Xuhui District, Shanghai Tel. +862164400032 Jenniferhuo@pam.com.hk Hong Kong Pacific Aviation Marketing Ltd. Unit 2503, Island Place Tower, 510 Kingís Road, North Point, Hong Kong.

Tel. +852 2926 2030 pamoperation@pam.com.hk

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