Finnish Lapland - Including Kuusamo | www.crossbillguides.org

CROSSBILL GUIDES

Finnish Lapland including kuusamo

CROSSBILL GUIDES

Finnish Lapland INCLUDING KUUSAMO

Crossbill Guides: Finnish Lapland including Kuusamo First print: 2010 Second, revised reprint: 2017 Initiative, text and research: Dirk Hilbers Additional text: Kim Lotterman, Albert Vliegenthart Editing: John Cantelo, Brian Clews, Cees Hilbers, Riet Hilbers, Maarit Kyöstilä, Kari Lahti, Olli Lamminsalo, Kim Lotterman, Matti Määttä, Päivi Paalamo, Manuela Seifert, Pekka Sulkava, Tarja Tuovinen Illustrations: Horst Wolter Maps: Dirk Hilbers, Hienke Sminia, Horst Wolter Type and image setting: Gert Jan Bosgra Print: Drukkerij Tienkamp, Groningen ISBN 978 94 916 48 12 0 © 2017 Crossbill Guides Foundation, Arnhem, The Netherlands This book is produced with best practice methods ensuring lowest possible environmental impact, using waterless offset, vegetable based inks and FSC-certified paper.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by print, photocopy, microfilm or any other means without the written permission of the Crossbill Guides Foundation.

The Crossbill Guides Foundation and its authors have done their utmost to provide accurate and current information and describe only routes, trails and tracks that are safe to explore. However, things do change and readers are strongly urged to check locally for current conditions and for any changes in circumstances. Neither the Crossbill Guides Foundation nor its authors or publishers can accept responsibillity for any loss, injury or inconveniences sustained by readers as a result of the information provided in this guide. www.crossbillguides.org www.nationalparks.fi www.wildguides.co.uk www.knnvpublishing.nl www.saxifraga.nl SAXIFRAGA foundation

CROSSBILL GUIDES FOUNDATION This guidebook is a product of the non-profit foundation Crossbill Guides. By publishing these books we want to introduce more people to the joys of Europe’s beautiful natural heritage and to increase the understanding of the ecological values that underlie conservation efforts. Most of this heritage is protected for ecological reasons and we want to provide insight into these reasons to the public at large. By doing so we hope that more people support the ideas behind nature conservation.

For more information about us and our guides you can visit our website at: WWW.CROSSBILLGUIDES.ORG

highlights of finnish lapland

4

Highlights of Finnish Lapland

1

Experience the vastness of the Lapland wilderness on long treks through the forests, the mires and over the fells.

2

Go birdwatching in May and June, when the lakes and peatlands are alive with birds.

3

Learn about the Sรกmi culture, the Lapland indigenous people, at the excellent Siida museum and Northern Lapland Nature Centre, and at the Reindeer Roundups.

4

Experience the gentle quietude of the midnight sun at a lakeside cabin.

highlights of finnish lapland

5

5

Take a refreshing Finnish Sauna after a long day’s walk (the plunge in the lake afterwards is obligatory).

6

Witness the stunning displays of the Northern lights and ‘Tykky’ snow in mid-winter.

7

Enjoy the flaming autumn colours during the ‘Ruska’ season in September.

8

Find the northern wildflowers and butterflies of Lapland’s mires and fells.Twinflower Heath* (Cassiope tetragona).

about this guide

6

About this guide This guide is meant for all those who enjoy being in and learning about nature, whether you already know all about it or not. It is set up a little differently from most guides. We focus on explaining the natural and ecological features of an area rather than merely describing the site. We choose this approach because the nature of an area is more interesting, enjoyable and valuable when seen in the context of its complex relationships. The interplay of different species with each other and with their environment is simply mind-blowing. The clever tricks and gimmicks that are put to use to beat life’s challenges are as fascinating as they are countless.

Take our namesake the Crossbill: at first glance it’s just a big finch with an awkward bill. But there is more to the Crossbill than meets the eye. This bill is beautifully adapted for life in coniferous forests. It is used like a scissor to cut open pinecones and eat the seeds that are unobtainable for other birds. In the Scandinavian countries where pine and spruce take up the greater part of the forests, several Crossbill species have each managed to answer two of life’s most pressing questions: how to get food and how to avoid direct competition. By evolving crossed bills, each differing subtly, they have secured a monopoly of the seeds produced by cones of varying sizes. So complex is this relationship that scientists are still debating exactly how many different species of Crossbill actually exist. Now this should heighten the appreciation of what at first glance was merely a plumb red bird with a beak that doesn’t seem to fit properly. Once its interrelationships are seen, nature comes alive, wherever you are.

To some, impressed by the “virtual” familiarity that television has granted to the wilderness of the Amazon, the vastness of the Serengeti or the sublimity of Yellowstone, European nature may seem a puny surrogate, good merely for the casual stroll. In short, the argument seems to be that if you haven’t seen some impressive predator, be it a Jaguar, Lion or Grizzly Bear, then you haven’t seen the “real thing”. Nonsense, of course.

But where to go? And how? What is there to see? That is where this guide comes in. We describe the how, the why, the when, the where and the how come of Europe’s most beautiful areas. In clear and accessible language, we explain the nature of Finnish Lapland and refer extensively to routes where the area’s features can be observed best. We try to make Finnish Lapland come alive. We hope that we succeed.

how to use this guide

How to use this guide This guidebook contains a descriptive and a practical section.

The descriptive part comes first and gives you insight into the most striking and interesting natural features of the area. It provides an understanding of what you will see when you go out exploring. The descriptive part consists of a landscape section (marked with a red bar), describing the habitats, the history and the landscape in general, and of a flora and fauna section (marked with a green bar), which discusses the plants and animals that occur in the region.

The second part offers the practical information (marked with a purple bar). A series of routes (walks) is carefully selected to give you a good flavour of all the habitats, flora and fauna that Finnish Lapland has to offer.

At the start of each route description, a number of icons give a quick overview of the characteristics of each route. These icons are explained in the margin of this page. The final part of the book (marked with blue squares) provides some basic tourist information and some tips on finding plants, birds and other animals.

There is no need to read the book from cover to cover. Instead, each small chapter stands on its own and refers to the routes most suitable for viewing the particular features described in it. Conversely, descriptions of each route refer to the chapters that explain more in depth the most typical features that can be seen along the way.

We have tried to keep the number of technical terms to a minimum. If using one is unavoidable, we explain it in the glossary at the end of the guide.

There we have also included a list of all the mentioned plant and animal species, with their scientific names and translations into German and Dutch.

Some species names have an asterix (*) following them. This indicates that there is no official English name for this species and that we have taken the liberty of coining one. For the sake of readability we have decided to translate the scientific name, or, when this made no sense, we gave a name that best describes the species’ appearance or distribution. Please note that we do not want to claim these as the official names. We merely want to make the text easier to follow for those not familiar with scientific names. When a new vernacular name was invented, we’ve also added the scientific name.

An overview of the area described in this book is given on the map on page 14. For your convenience we have also turned the inner side of the back flap into a map of the area indicating all the described routes. Descriptions in the explanatory text refer to these routes.

7 walking route

beautiful scenery interesting geology historical and cultural significance interesting flora interesting invertebrate life interesting reptile and amphibian life interesting birdlife visualising the ecological contexts described in this guide

table of contents

8

Table of contents Landscape 11 Geographical overview 16 Geology 17 Climate 19 The Kuusamo area at a glance 22 Pyhä-Luosto National Park at a glance 24 Inari Lapland at a glance 25 Kevo and Utsjoki at a glance 27 Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park at a glance 28 Kilpisjärvi and the Käsivarsi Wilderness at a glance 29 Habitats 30 Boreal forests 34 Mires, bogs and fens 41 Lakes and rivers 47 Fells and mountain heathlands 52 Fields, villages and meadows – man-made habitats 56 History 59 Nature conservation 69 Flora and Fauna 75 Flora 78 Mammals 93 Birds 96 Reptiles and amphibians 108 Insects and other invertebrates 109 Practical Part 117 Routes in the Kuusamo area 118 Route 1 The Riisitunturi trail 119 Route 2 Hiidenlampi and Oulanka waterfalls 122 Route 3 The Rytisuo nature trail 124 Route 4 Oulanka canyon 126 Route 5 Valtavaara – Searching for the Red-flanked Bluetail 128 Route 6 Närängänvaara aapa mire and old-growth forest 129 Other routes and sites in the Kuusamo area 132 Routes in Pyhä-Luosto National Park 133 Route 7 The Isokuru gorge 134 Route 8 The fells and mires of Luosto 137 Other sites in and Pyhä-Luosto 140 Routes in Inari Lapland 142

table of contents

Route 9 The fells of Raututunturit 143 Route 10 The Tankavaara nature trail 146 Route 11 The Pielpajärvi wilderness church 148 Route 12 The Lemmenjoki nature trail 150 Route 13 The reindeer round-up of Sallivaara and nearby bogs 152 Other routes and sites in Inari Lapland 155 Routes in Kevo and Utsjoki 157 Route 14 The Kevo gorge 158 Other sites in Kevo and Utsjoki 162 Routes in Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park 164 Route 15 The mighty Pallastunturi fell 166 Route 16 From the visitors’ centre to the Mäntyrova day hut 168 Route 17 The Pyhäjoki nature trail 170 Route 18 The Varkaankuru gorge 172 Route 19 The fell and virgin forest of Aakenustunturi 174 Route 20 The aapa mire of Teuravuoma 177 Other routes and sites in Pallas-Yllästunturi 180 Routes in Käsivarsi and Kilpisjärvi area 181 Route 21 The Malla Strict Nature Reserve 182 Route 22 Rounding Saana fell 184 Other routes and sites in Kilpisjärvi 186 Tourist information and observation tips 189 Glossary 208 Acknowledgements 210 Picture and illustration credits 211 Species list and translation 212 List of Text boxes Lapland and Sámi – the land and its people The northern lights The northern cycles – a bit of history repeating Birch, Dwarf Birch or dwarfed birch Fast facts about Reindeer and reindeer herding Protected areas in Lapland Collapse of the rodent cycles Berry picking Reindeer – Lapland animals par excellence Siberian Jay – your inquisitive companion in the north Crazy Capercaillie

13 20 32 46 62 71 72 90 95 97 105

9

LANDSCAPE

11

Finnish Lapland and the Kuusamo area For most of us, the name ‘Lapland’ conjures up romantic images of vast forests, empty peat lands and rugged, treeless uplands - an endless land where bears and wolves roam and the word ‘nature’ is a euphemism for wilderness.

Such images are usually too romantic, but this time, they are not too far from the truth. Finnish Lapland has indeed vast expanses of nearly untouched land, where forests are ‘virgin’ and the mires have never been drained, harvested or otherwise touched by Man. Of course there are also areas that have been altered, but these are the exception rather than the rule. In the north, most of the land surface has a protective status that ensures the preservation of the wilderness character (see page 71).

Travelling to such a pristine region is obviously a privilege for any visitor, but – like in any proper wilderness – this beauty comes with a price. For the name Lapland conjures up two other images that are not far from the truth either: a severe climate and clouds of mosquitoes. It is either the one or the other: the insects come only a few weeks after the weather improves.

Fortunately, modern travelling enables us to take away the edge of these hardships (see page 195).

Lapland covers northern Finland and adjacent Sweden, Norway and Russia. The Finnish part of Lapland forms the northernmost province of Finland (but see text box on page 13). This is the land of the taiga, an originally Russian word for the northern coniferous forest. Taiga typically consists of vast, silent expanses of pine and spruce forests, broken by similarly extensive areas of lakes and mires. In Finnish Lapland the taiga is complemented with extensive fell systems: sudden but gently rolling hills that are treeless and lie like islands of tundra amidst a sea of taiga.

Finnish Lapland is probably the best region in Europe to see and enjoy the nature and wildlife of the boreal region. Birdwatchers come here in

landscape

A Lappish lake in the evening sun. Due to the low position of the sun the light in the north has a special charm.

landscape

12

Fells, peatlands and boreal forests form the main ingredients of the Lappish landscape.

search of rarities such as Hawk Owl, Pine Grosbeak and Little Bunting –species that within Europe are only found here. As can be expected from a region with large wilderness areas, all great predators – Bear, Wolf, Lynx and Wolverine – are present as well. Those interested in plants, butterflies and dragonflies may find the specialist species of the far north. But whatever people come in search for, no one fails to be enchanted by the sheer vastness of the landscape. Even from the roads one can witness an almost continuous spectacle of ancient forests and peatlands in which the natural processes typical of pristine landscapes continue unimpeded.

Lapland is not only the home of plants and animals, but also that of the Sámi, the indigenous inhabitants of this land. For centuries they have lived from what nature brought forth: fish, game, hides and herds of half domesticated reindeer. Even today, although in a modernised way, the Sámi live in and with the Lappish landscape.

It is this combination of unique species, a vast, superb and untouched landscape and the Sámi culture that makes Finnish Lapland a must-see region. This guidebook describes and explains the landscape and the processes that shape it and the flora and the fauna that populates it. From page 117 onwards it also describes a number of routes and provides a series of observation tips that enable you to explore Finnish Lapland by yourself.

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

landscape

Lapland and Sámi – the land and its people Lapland is one of those regions everyone has heard of, but is confusingly difficult to define. Taken literally, Lapland is the land of the Laps. Lapland however, is not a country. Fittingly, for a culture that long pre-dates the ‘nation state’, the Laps defy modern ideas of international borders; hence Lapland stretches out over northern parts of Sweden, Norway and Finland and on into north-west Russia.

The term ‘Lap’ was a label that settlers from the south put on the indigenous people of Lapland. Originally, ‘Lap’ was a synonym for hinterland and the ‘Laps’ simply the people from the northern backwoods of Scandinavia. This somewhat negative word has now been replaced by the word ‘Sámi’, which literally means ‘people’. Sámi is the word the indigenous people use to refer to themselves.

The Sámi, like the indigenous peoples of North America, are a ‘nature people’.

They traditionally live a semi-nomadic life in which reindeer herding plays a central role. In a modified way, this is the lifestyle practised to this day. The Lappish word for Lapland – the Sámi homeland – is Sápmi.

So far, the semantics are pretty straightforward. The confusion begins when talking about Finnish Lapland. This is not, as would be logical, a synonym to Finnish Sapmi. Finnish Lapland is the northernmost province of Finland. It is an administrative region, much larger than the present-day homeland of the Sámi.

The province’s name is not entirely ill-chosen though, because it roughly corresponds with the historical extent of the Sámi homeland within Finland. Today however, the Sámi villages and herdsmen are all up in the northern part of Finnish Lapland. Vuotso (north of Sodankylä) is the southernmost Sámi community.

This guidebook covers the entire province of Lapland, plus the Kuusamo area, which is largely situated in the Oulu province. The Sámi culture is found in the northern Parks described in this book.

landscape

13

One of the many special bird species of the boreal forest is the Pine Grosbeak.

geographical map

14

1

Lemmenjoki National Park (2800 km2) Huge northern wilderness, important Sámi herding grounds.

Limited number of trails.

Routes 12 - 13

2

Kilpisjärvi and Käsivarsi Wilderness area (2206 km2) Fells, tundra, lakes and the highest altitudes in Finland.

Limited number of trails.

Routes 21 - 22

NORWAY kilpisjärvi

2

hetta

3

Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park (1020 km2) Comprises all Lapland habitats, particularly fells.

Well developed network of trails, three visitors’ centres.

Routes 15 - 19

4

Pyhä-Luosto National Park (142 km2) Southernmost fell system, rich Sámi history and impressive gorges.

Numerous trails and a visitors’ centre.

Routes 7 - 8

3 muonio

kittilä

SWEDEN

rovaniemi

5

Riisitunturi National Park (77 km2) Spruce forests and unique sloping bogs.

Limited number of trails.

Route 1 Gulf of Bothnia

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

geographical map

15

Varanger

6

Kevo Strict Nature Reserve (710 km2) Huge, tundra-like fell system with a large river gorge.

Restricted access, only one multiple day hiking trail.

Route 14

utsjoki

6

inari

7

Lake Inari

1 ivalo

Urho – Kekkonen National Park (2550 km2) After Lemmenjoki, the largest wilderness with fells, forests and aapa mires.

Popular park with many hiking and skiing trails, two visitors’ centres and a customer service point.

Routes 9 - 10

RUSSIA 7

8

LAPLAND

Oulanka National Park (206 km2) Wild rivers, spruce and pine forests, bogs and lakes.

Great area for walking, with many short and long trails and a visitors’ centre.

Routes 2 - 4

sodankylä

4 kemijärvi

5

8

9

Syöte National Park (299 km2) Luxuriant Spruce forest, sloping bogs and ancient meadows.

Good walking infrastructure and a visitors’ centre.

kuusamo

oulu province

9

landscape

habitats

30

The treeless tundra of Kilpisjärvi with the conspicuous Saana fell (route 22) in the distance.

lies the impressive Saana Fell, a huge table mountain that gives the scenery a dramatic edge.

The flora and fauna reflect the northern atmosphere with Snow and Lapland Buntings, Long-tailed Duck and Longtailed Skua as typical breeding birds, plus, in good lemming years, Snowy Owl. Käsivarsi is also the haunt for some typically arctic butterflies, including the rare Dusky-winged Fritillary. West of Kilpisjärvi lies the Malla Strict Nature Reserve, which is, together with the fells north of Kilpisjärvi, a botanical gem. It is the only arctic limestone area of Finland and supports a flora with plants that occur nowhere else in the country.

There is one road that runs south of Käsivarsi, through Kilpisjärvi and into Norway.

There are several trails that depart from Kilpisjärvi village.

Habitats The Lapland landscape is an ongoing repetition of four different habitats: forest, peatlands, lakes and fells. Huge areas are in an absolutely pristine state and in this, Lapland is unique in Europe. Virgin forests alternate with intact, impenetrable mires of sometimes hundreds of square kilometres in size. The rivers run freely through the land, unbound by dams or dykes.

The dominant habitat of Finnish Lapland is the coniferous forest, mostly consisting of pines, although, particularly in the south, spruce forests are also common. Where the ever undulating land slopes down, water collects

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

habitats

and the forest makes way either for peatlands or for lakes. The highlands consist of vast fell systems – bare, rounded hill ranges, which are relicts of ancient mountain ranges. The fells that rise several hundred metres above the surrounding landscape give a taste of the Arctic within this boreal region and also offer a superb panorama of the surrounding forests and peatlands. In northern Lapland, the fells take over completely. In addition to these habitats, there are river valleys and areas of cultivated land and meadow which are not without natural interest.

The cold and the long period of snow cover are obvious factors that make Lapland what it is. But it is not only the climate that rules the land. The forests, the peatlands, the lakes and the fells have all developed under severely nutrient-poor conditions. The acidic soil is not very helpful either, because it slows down the activity of bacteria that turn nitrogen into nitrate, which is important for plant growth. The habitats of Lapland are thus very economic in their use of these limited resources.

The Lappish nutrient-poor environments are the complete opposite of those of Central Europe, where rich environments are the norm. In Central Europe, nutrient-poor habitats are rare and often threatened by nutrients washed out from intensive farming. Thus, from the perspective of a visitor from further south, the ‘rare and endangered’ habitats are everywhere in Lapland! In Finnish Lapland, however, the few nutrient rich habitats, such as riversides (page 49), gorges and herb-rich forests (page 39) are the rare and luxurious gems. It is here that you can find Lapland’s rare and endangered plants and animals.

31

Fells p. 52

Forests p. 34

Fields p. 56

Cross section of Finnish Lapland with its different habitats.

Mires p. 41

Lakes p. 47 landscape

mires, bogs and fens

42

tral Finland used to be home to numerous peatlands, but many of these were drained during the 19th century and later in the 1960s and ‘70s to make way for commercial forests. Lapland however, was largely spared the draining frenzy. Here, you’ll find huge, glorious and completely intact mire complexes, full of birds, plants and dragonflies.

With their yellowish-brown grasses and sedges, the white tufts of cottongrass and the little stunted pines, peatlands have a desolate kind of beauty.

Only during a brief period in spring, when birds are flooding in, they are bustling with activity – during the rest of the year they retreat in the silence that is so typical of the north.

A typical Lapland Bog Facing page: the typical aapa mire has a recognisable structure. On the edge of the mire, mineralrich water flows in from the hills. Then a shallow, dry peatland with scattered pine trees follows. The lower aapa mire has a structure of peaty basins and dry ridges.

The mire’s centre is a bog pool fringed with very wet quaking bog.

Species from left to right: St.-Charle’s Sceptre, Bog Rosemary, Wood Sandpiper, Crane, Cloudberry, Red Cottongrass, Great Sundew and Bogbean.

Mires, fens and bogs – peatlands in general – are wetlands where the soil consists of dead, but not entirely decomposed plant material: peat. It forms where the soil is constantly wet, lacks oxygen and is poor in nutrients. Under such conditions plant material can’t rot and thus accumulates, albeit slowly. These conditions are not very favourable for plant growth, so the peat layer steadily grows (1 mm per year is the maximum). Many mires in Finnish Lapland have layers of several metres deep, so elementary math tells us that they are at least several thousand years old, which means that they started to form after the retreat of the land ice. Like its forests, the mires of Lapland are an ancient landscape.

Peatlands consist of various zones, each with their own specific plants and animals. The edges, where the forested slope reaches the flat mires, are usually lined with willows and birches – a vegetation not unlike that of river margins. The runoff melt water brings down nutrients that accumulate here and allow for a richer vegetation. At the edge, the peat layer is thin and mineral-rich seepage water influences the vegetation. It is always worth paying greater attention when you cross this zone, which is often not more than a few metres broad. It may yield some plants you won’t find further out on the mire. This is a place where you may encounter the beautiful St.-Charles Sceptre or Moor King (p. 82) – an ill-chosen name for you’d hardly expect the king of the moor to lead such a marginal existence on the very edge of a peatland. These are also the sites where butterworts, Grass-of-Parnassus, wintergreens and other wildflowers can be found. Willow and Black Grouse appreciate the willow and birch buds in this zone, whilst Sedge Warblers, Reed Buntings and Bluethroats use the scrub to breed in.

Further onto the mire, there is forest peatland (see page 40) with stunted Pines. It may form a narrow belt or stretch out for hundreds of metres,

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

mires, bogs and fens

43

depending on the underlying bedrock. Wherever the peat rises sufficiently from the ground water to create a substantial dry layer, there is a pine peatland.

Further towards the centre of the mire, the dry peat patches form only small tussocks between soggy pools, filled with a thick soup of peat mosses, with Bladderwort, Small Cranberry, Rannoch-rush (in the south), various sedges and Round-leaved and Great Sundews. This is the open, treeless peatland where most of the waders, as well as Cranes and Bean Geese, breed.

In the centre of the mire there are usually small tarns that have not been choked with peat. The open water is often much larger than it appears because a floating layer of peat covers the edges: the quaking bog. This very wet layer is the breeding locality of the rarer and more difficult to see birds, like Broad-billed Sandpiper, Jack Snipe and Red-necked Phalarope.

Don’t expect to be able to distinguish this pattern neatly in every peatland you cross. Local conditions, such as water flow, slope and nutrients, make each mire unique and subtly different from its neighbours. The arrangement of these elements create remarkable patterns. The climatic conditions in Lapland favour two very striking types of mires: the aapa mire and the palsa mire.

forest

mire edge

pine peatland

open mire

landscape

dry peat

open mire

dry peat

quaking bog

pool

mires, bogs and fens

44

Distribution of Aapa mires (middle green) and Palsa mires (dark green) in Finland.

Aapa mires, Palsa bogs and Fens

In Finland, seven main types of peatland have been distinguished, with numerous subtypes described in the various regions. The two main mire types occurring in Lapland are aapa mires and palsa mires – the typical peatlands that correspond with the northern boreal and tundra regions respectively.

The Aapa mires – also known as string bogs – are typical of Lapland. They are not found much further south nor much further north. Aapa mires consist of strings of dry peat surrounding shallow tarns with open water in spring that become filled with sphagnum moss during the course of summer. A typical aapa mire has a striking pattern that resembles that of rice paddies.

This curious structure is the result of two factors: the oxygen deficient waters and the wet and cold soils. Under such conditions, plant growth and thus the formation of peat is very slow. Due to frost and a compact soil water can hardly seep away. When the water freezes up in autumn, it expands and pushes the peat to the sides, where it forms strings. The most beautifully structured Aapa’s are formed where the bedrock is slightly sloping.

Elsewhere, the paddy pattern is not so pronounced and it may be lacking completely in some large mires.

In northernmost Lapland, one enters the realm of the Palsa bog. Palsas are shallow upland peatlands, where water accumulated in little hollows and, when expanding as ice, has created mounds of peat. The Palsa hillocks are dry and heath-like with many lichens, separated by wet or soggy areas.

In large mires in truly arctic ecosystems, these peat mounts can reach to over six metres with the icy centre remaining frozen throughout the year.

In Lapland however, at the southern range of the palsa mire, the hillocks are usually small and tussock-like. Both aapa mires and palsa mires are very important areas for breeding birds – both with their own unique set of species.

Fens are peatlands, which are richer in nutrients. They are fairly easily distinguished by their distinct vegetation, which consists of a high concentration of mat-forming sedges. Fens occur where, for one reason or another, nutrient-rich seepage water enters the marsh. The increased availability of nutrients is appreciated by the aquatic vegetation, invertebrates and fish, and these in turn attract birds. The number of ducks and waders on fens is higher than that on the poor mires.

Wildlife of Peatlands

If one had to ascribe a sound to the Lappish peatlands, the loud and agi-

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

mires, bogs and fens

45

tated liro-liro calls of the Wood Sandpiper would be it. This most typical of all the mire birds and its conspicuous, piercing call can be heard in almost any peatland – hence the bird’s Finnish name ‘Liro’. They call from the tops of pines or spruces in the mire - an unexpected sight for visitors from southern Europe who know these waders from treeless marshes. The Wood Sandpiper’s agitated behaviour is parental concern – somewhere down in the bog are the eggs or the chicks and you are not to come near them.

For those animals not blessed with the power of flight, these boglands are difficult to cross and birds clearly appreciate the security that the peatlands provide. Waders are the dominant breeding birds. Beside the Wood Sandpiper, the Lappish mires are inhabited by Whimbrels, Spotted Redshanks, Greenshanks, snipes (both Common and Jack), Broad-billed Sandpipers, Red-necked Phalaropes, Temminck’s Stints and Bar-tailed Godwits – all of which are in full display just after they arrive in mid May. In June and July, when the birds are on eggs or with small young, the mires may seem a dead place.

The open and sunny conditions in the peatlands are attractive for plants and for insects that need the warming sun. Butterflies, dragonflies, reptiles and amphibians (such as Viviparous Lizards and Grass Frogs) enjoy the peatlands and can be found predominantly here.

landscape

Aapa mires (top) have a typical structure of dams and basins, resembling rice paddies. Bushes and pines on the drier parts are the favourite haunt for Wood Sandpipers (bottom).

birds

96

Birds For watching birds of boreal forest, routes 1, 5, 6, 8, 16, 17, 18 and 19 are recommended, as is Iivaara (page 132). To find the birds of the mires and wetlands, try routes 6, 13 and 20, plus the additional sites mentioned on pages 140 and 186. Fell birds are found on routes 9, 14, 15, 19, 21 and 22 and in the Utsjoki area (pages 162-163) and Ounastunturi fells (page 180) Further information on birdwatching is given on page 202 and onwards.

Waders, such as this Greenshank (right) and Snipe (bottom), breed in the mires of Lapland. They frequently perch on trees to display or alarm.

Owls, and waders, Red-flanked Bluetails and Long-tailed Skuas – Finnish Lapland has a unique and superb birdlife. With roughly 143 species of breeding birds, Lapland’s birdlife measures up with that of the better sites in southern Europe – quite amazing at this latitude. Many of them can only be found in Lapland, since the alternative sites in interior Russia are too hard to reach. No wonder this region draws both Finnish and foreign birdwatchers.

The thing that spoils the birding feast somewhat is the elusiveness of many of Lapland’s specialities. Densities of birds are naturally low in this region. For various reasons (see page 75 and box on page 32) the bogs and forests are uncertain and usually frugal providers. As a consequence, birds either roam vast territories or have adopted a nomadic lifestyle, moving to those areas where food is available. Moreover, the season in which birds are active is very short.

But if you get the timing right, you are in for an extraordinary birding experience. This makes Finnish Lapland a real challenge and every observation all the more enjoyable. For finding the really difficult species, such as owls and grouse, you are advised to seek assistance from local birdwatchers or birding companies (See page 203 for details).

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

birds

97 Siberian Jay – your inquisitive companion in the north The Siberian Jay is THE bird of the old-growth forest of Lapland. Unlike other birds of the crow family, the Siberian Jays hasn’t traded in its original habitat for parks and villages. The few birds that do breed near settlements have little luck in rearing their young because other members of the crow family rob the nests too frequently.

Despite, or perhaps because of, its preference for remote areas, Siberian Jays are not shy and even show an explicit interest in the activities of hikers, particularly when there is the prospect of finding something edible. You will find Siberian Jays most likely at a shelter or hut in the middle of the forest. They appear suddenly and silently as they glide from branch to branch towards the camp. Siberian Jays are not afraid of fire and may pick out crumbs of bread from the edge of the fireplace. Only when they have young, during June, are they shy and remain in the woods, afraid to disclose the location of their offspring. In July, when the young are able to fly, the new family noisily combs the forest for food.

Maybe it is this inquisitive behaviour that gave the Kuukkeli, as the Finns call this bird, its many nicknames. They are known as birds of fortune to the Sámi hunter. When a jay appears, the hunt is blessed. Only when you find a jay’s nest, you are in trouble. You are not to disturb the nest, according to Sámi lore, since, if you do so, misfortune will strike you or your family.

Like other members of the crow family, Siberian Jays are smart birds. Recently, researchers discovered that this bird has developed an ingenious predator alarm system, with different calls to identify the type of predator. Siberian Jays warn each other when there is an owl or a Goshawk around. Furthermore, they even have different calls to qualify the threat level of the predator. A perched Goshawk invokes a different and tamer alarm than a hunting hawk.

The research does not tell us whether jays have a special call reserved for humans. If they have, it must mean something like ‘potential food source detected’.

So come prepared – that is, have some crumbs reserved – and you’ll find the Siberian Jay to be a faithful companion on your hikes.

flora and fauna

Siberian Jay

birds

98

Birdlife at a crossroads

A typical spring walk in the boreal forest. Bramblings and Redwings are singing everywhere. Their choir is enriched by the songs of Siskins and Chaffinches. When crossing a forest stream, you are greeted by the pleasant melody of Song Thrush, the subtle calls of Waxwing, Treecreeper, Bullfinch and – less subtle – those of Black and Three-toed Woodpeckers.

In the forest, typically northern birds live side by side with those familiar from our temperate regions. Interestingly, the northern and southern species do not seek out different habitats. Of course the southern tinge does gradually wear off as one travels north, but the best sites for birds of the boreal forest – e.g. Pine Grosbeak, Siberian Jay, Three-toed Woodpecker – are also the places to search for southern rarities (from a Lapland perspective!) like Robin and Wren: the herb-rich forests.

Some familiar species of temperate Europe occur in Lapland in different habitats. Parkland birds like Redstart and Pied Flycatcher turn out to be very common in dry pine taiga. In the Mountain Birch scrub, far away from their reed and willow haunts of temperate Europe, Willow Warblers and Bluethroats (the red-spotted Scandinavian race) are plentiful.

Besides birds of the boreal and temperate regions, Lapland’s avifauna is enriched by species from the Arctic and the Siberian regions. The Arctic bird community is restricted to the open fells.

Long-tailed Skua, Lapland and Snow Buntings, Dotterel, Longtailed Duck, Ptarmigan and Bar-tailed Godwit are all representatives of the northern birdlife. The most common fell bird however, is again a well-known species that you would not directly associate with the Arctic regions: take your hat off for the little Meadow Pipit, whose cheerful song brightens up even the most barren, remote fell top.

The migrant birds that belong in Siberia, rather than Europe, are few in number. Just five songbirds reach Lapland at the very western end of their range: Red-flanked Bluetail, Little and Rustic Buntings and Greenish and Arctic Warblers. They are fairly rare.

Not because the terrain isn’t suitable for them, but because they migrate all the way to South-east Asia in winter. The journey to and from Finland is a long and dangerous one and, as a consequence, the populations of Lapland fluctuate. Both buntings used to be much more common in Lapland – as old bird books indicate – but the intensification of Chinese bird trapping has caused these species to decline strongly. Red-flanked Bluetail and Greenish Warbler do rather well.

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

birds

Lapland’s specialities

Some groups of birds are especially well-represented in Finnish Lapland.

These are the waders, the ducks, swans and geese, the owls and the grouse.

99

Waders

The aapa and palsa mires are among the prime wader breeding grounds in Europe. Many of the Ruffs, Wood Sandpipers, Spotted Redshanks and Greenshanks, familiar from the wetlands of Europe and Africa, come from Lapland. For example, roughly 50% of Europe’s Wood Sandpipers and Spotted Redshanks breed in Lapland. With regard to the Broad-billed Sandpiper, an estimated 78% of the European population is found in Finnish Lapland!

In the first half of May, when the snow has barely melted from the mires, waders arrive in huge numbers. For a few weeks, the bogs are alive with these agitated birds. After that, they tend to the young and stay silent.

Waders leave Lapland as soon as the young can fend for themselves, almost as if they came against their will. But when they are there, Lapland is a magical place.

There are 20 species of waders in Lapland. Wood Sandpiper is the most numerous. Its noisy presence is hard to miss. Like most waders, Wood Sandpipers ‘sing’ from tree tops – an unusual sight for visitors from the south. Snipe is another common wader. The male Snipe makes a typical sound of friction of wood on wood (kwi-kuu, kwi-kuu, kwi-kuu), like a squeaking bed. They also perform a spectacular series of diving flights, during which they produce a sound that vaguely resembles a distant whinnying horse or bleating goat. The sound is produced by the stiff tail feathers which vibrate as the air flows through them. Curlew, Ruff, Broadbilled Sandpiper, Greenshank

flora and fauna

Dotterel is, together with the more common Golden Plover, a breeding bird of the dry fell heathlands.

route 5: valtavaara

- searching for the red-flanked bluetail

Route 5: Valtavaara – Searching for the Red-flanked Bluetail

128

!

Mosquitoes can be a nuisance

1 ½ HOURS MODERATE Best site for Red-flanked Bluetail Beautiful old spruces and great views over the boreal landscape of Kuusamo Habitats: Old-growth spruce forest Selected species: Red-flanked Bluetail, Siberian Jay

ruka

p

bird loop

0

p

= car park

The Red-flanked Bluetail breeds on steep spruce-clad hills, such as Valtavaara.

500 m

Valtavaara hilltop

This route visits the best site of one of the most sought-after birds of Finland, the handsome Redflanked Bluetail. But since the Bluetail seeks out scenic sites to breed, there is more to see on Valtavaara than just this bird. The steep hillside is covered with an old, mossy spruce forest, which forms a perfect habitat for other taiga birds. The views from the hilltop are excellent.

The Bluetail can be located on the short circular bird route (Lintupolku in Finnish). Listen for its pleasant, clear and short song (somewhat reminiscent of Common Redstart). It often sings from the top of a tall Spruce and is most active in the early hours (around 4 o’clock in the morning). If the bird loop fails to produce the target bird, then follow the trail to the top of the hill (part of the Bear’s trail). Other birds that may be found here are Pine Grosbeak, Bullfinch, Siberian Jay, Capercaillie, Black and Three-toed Woodpeckers Common and Parrot Crossbills. Rustic and Little Buntings and even Greenish Warbler!

Additional remarks

If Valtavaara wasn’t successful, try your luck at Iivaara (see page 132).

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

route 6: närängänvaara aapa mire and old-growth forest

Route 6: Närängänvaara aapa mire and old-growth forest

129

5 HOURS EASY-MODERATE Beautiful example of an aapa mire, including its rich flora and fauna Habitats: Aapa mire, spruce forest, pine mire Selected species: Rannoch-rush, Lesser Twayblade, Wood Sandpiper, Curlew, Greenshank, Beautiful Demoiselle

The trail to the Närängänvaara hill lies some distance away from the other routes. It is worth the drive over from Kuusamo because it is such a good and accessible example of an aapa mire. The aapa mire is rich in breeding waders, but difficult to explore. On this route you are able to traverse such a mire on a boardwalk, providing excellent opportunities to see its flora and fauna.

Moreover, from the hilltop on the other side, you have excellent views over the mire. The hill itself is clad in a splendid spruce forest and some remarkably old stands of pine.

Starting point From Kuusamo follow the number 5 highway south and turn left after 29 km onto the 8421, signposted Murtovaara and Hossa. Just before the sign ‘Hossa 20 kilometres’ a track, signposted Hyöteikkö, branches off to the left (don’t mistake it for the better signposted track towards Näränkä, which splits off the road some 20 metres further on). Follow the track to Hyöteikkö for almost 6 kilometres until you reach a car park on your right.

From the car park follow the trail signposted ‘Närängänreitti 15 km’.

1

The first part of the track follows a low sandy ridge through a pine mire. Look for dragonflies, such as Small and Ruby White-faces, Azure and Bog Hawkers and various Emeralds.

practical part

Bogbean

route 6: närängänvaara aapa mire and old-growth forest

130

barn

3

2

extension

route

o

p

o p

= observation tower = car park

0

Russian border

1

4

1 km

2

Once you leave the ridge, you arrive in open peatland. The string structure of the Aapa mire is very visible here. Little pines grow on the ‘dams’ and form perfect perches for Grey-headed (Yellow) Wagtails, Wood Sandpipers, Spotted Redshanks and other waders. Dragonflies often land on the boardwalk itself to soak up the sun. From the boardwalk, various wildflowers can easily be admired, including Heath Spotted-orchid and in the wetter parts, Rannoch-rush and Sundews.

Further ahead, the peatland’s hydrology becomes influenced by nutrientrich water from the little stream that runs at the foot of the hill. Here, Early Marsh-orchids take the place of the Heath Spotteds.

After crossing the brook, you come to a woodland and onto a forest track which you cross. The trail soon comes to a T-junction. Go left here, following the sign Närängän Tila.

3

Your ascent to the hilltop leads to a beautiful old spruce forest with the occasional Goat Willow, Trembling Aspen and Grey Alder mixed in. Check the moss by the path carefully for the diminutive Lesser Twayblade – a tiny orchid. Dwarf Cornel, Common and Small Cow-wheats, Chickweed and Round-leaved Wintergreens are easily found. Beautiful Demoiselles flutter by on open patches. The wooded hillside here looks like perfect habitat for birds of the boreal forest (e.g. Pine Grosbeak, Redflanked Bluetail).

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

route 6: närängänvaara aapa mire and old-growth forest

4

Närängän Tila is an old farm surrounded by a meadow that is actually a sea of Wood Crane’s-bill. The track proceeds right of the main house back into the woods. At the top of the hill you come to two vantage points. The first faces north-east. The hills on the horizon are Russian territory. The next viewpoint provides glorious views over the aapa mire you have just crossed.

131

The trail through the aapa mire of Närängänvaara.

White-faces (bottom) frequently rest on the boardwalk in June.

Next you come to a crossing where you have the option to turn left and extend your trip by rounding the lake, or to go right and follow the trail back to the starting point. In the latter case, you zigzag down to a car park on a main track. From the car park go straight ahead over the grassy track until, after 500 metres, you find the track back over the mire (look carefully, because it is somewhat hidden).

practical part

other routes and sites in the kuusamo area

132

Other routes and sites in the Kuusamo area Other trails in Oulanka

The Keroharju trail is an 18.5 km long linear trail crossing a large aapa mire. You can start at one of two car parks; one north of Liikasenvaara and the other east of Hautajärvi.

Situated along the Kitkanjoki river in the south of Oulanka is the splendid 12 km long Pieni (= minor) Karhunkierros trail. It is full of birdlife, supports a great flora and a beautiful, pristine river landscape. Starting point is Juuma village car park or Oulanka Basecamp, an outdoors and excursion company, which also provides rafting tours in the area (see below).

To get here, take the road north out of Ruka and turn right towards Juuma village and park at the end of the road. To get to Basecamp Oulanka, turn right and then immediately left just before arriving in Juuma. From the Basecamp car park we advise to take the trail to Myllykoski rapids which is a beautiful site – an old mill – on the rocky banks of a wild river. From there, you can explore the loop either clockwise or counter-clockwise.

Rafting or canoeing in Oulanka

The trekking and adventure company Basecamp Oulanka in Juuma provides active excursions by canoe and raft, guided hikes and rock climbing; we can recommend canoeing the Oulankajoki River. Basecamp Oulanka is a nature-friendly company that works closely with PANparks and WWF. The personnel speak perfect English. see www.basecampoulanka.fi

Birdwatching Iivaara hill

Recently, the Iivaara hill south of Kuusamo has become popular with birdwatchers. It is a similar steep-sloped and spruce-covered hill as that of Valtavaara. It is a good site to search for Red-flanked Bluetail. In addition, the little bridge at the start is a good site for Rustic Bunting.

Pied Flycatchers are frequent breeding birds in Kuusamo and Lapland.

Kuusamo Bearwatching

A small private company takes customers to a hide close to the Russian border, from where you can watch wild Brown Bears which are attracted to a specially laid out carcass. Trips are in the evening, fully organised by experienced and responsible guides. In 2009, a bear-watching trip cost € 120 (see www.karhukuusamo.com).

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

routes in pyhä-luosto national park

Routes in Pyhä-Luosto National Park

133

For a general description of Pyhä-Luosto, see page 24.

The small (by Lapland’s standards) National Park of Pyhä-Luosto is often overlooked by travellers from outside Finland, in their haste to reach the larger wilderness areas in the north. Nevertheless there is a lot to say for stopping in the Pyhä-Luosto area for a few days.

What makes Pyhä-Luosto attracinari / tive is its collection of ecosysilmakkiaapa sodankylä tems typical of southern Lapland, which can be explored with ease via an extensive network of trails.

There are vast, untouched aapa sokanaapa mire complexes (routes 7 and 8) luosto kilpiaapa 8 full of birds and unscathed oldpelkosenniemi Pyhä-Luosto NP growth forests (route 8) and scenic gorges (route 7). Pyhä-Luosto pyhätunturi 7 is conveniently located in the centre of Finnish Lapland, which 4 5 means that whichever way you travel, a visit to the park is never 0 10 km much of a detour.

82

kemijärvi

rovaniemi

Surrounding Pyhä-Luosto are many smaller mire reserves with several bird-watching towers which are easy to visit (see page 141). Furthermore, the nearby towns of Rovaniemi and Sodankylä each have their own attractions. In Rovaniemi you can visit the large Arktikum Museum (page 140) and Sodankylä has the best preserved pre-WWII wooden church.

Your base of departure should be the visitors’ centre (Luontokeskus Naava) in the ski resort of Pyhätunturi.

practical part

View from the Pyhätunturi fell over the boreal forest.

TOURIST INFORMATION & OBSERVATION TIPS Travelling in and to Finnish Lapland

The easiest way to travel around Finnish Lapland is by road, which gets you to where you want to go in the shortest possible time. There are petrol stations in most towns and villages, although they are not as frequent as elsewhere in Europe. So we advise you to fill up when you have the opportunity (and to carry sufficient cash since the petrol stations are often unmanned and foreign credit cards are not universally accepted). There are car rental companies, easily contacted via the internet, in all major cities. A convenient and not-too-expensive way of travel is to take the train to Rovaniemi and rent your car there (rather than taking the expensive and polluting plane out to Kuusamo, Kittilä, Rovaniemi or Ivalo).

Finland has an excellent public transportation system. The train takes you, swiftly and conveniently, to Oulu, Kolari or Rovaniemi. For train schedules and bookings in English, visit www.vr.fi/en. Long distance buslines (called pikavuorot) serve the major routes whilst the regional buses (vakiovuorot) follow the more local road network. Most starting points mentioned here and National Parks are reachable by comfortable, punctual, and regular buses.

For schedules and bookings, visit matkahuolto.fi/en. To find the correct lines and bus stops for the individual parks and reserves visit outdoors.fi and search under the national park of your choice in the menu (see under ‘directions’ and ‘maps’).

The adventurous cyclist will enjoy Finnish Lapland. The relatively flat terrain, the quiet atmosphere and the opportunity for ‘wild camping’ , makes this area ideal for cycling, although distances between towns and services are great. It is possible to take your bike on both the train and on long-distance buses.

When to go

The growing season in Lapland maybe short, but the visiting season isn’t. Winter has its special appeal. The ‘days’ are so short that the sun doesn’t even rise above the horizon in northern Lapland. During this Kaamos period, only a dim glow can be seen at midday, but the clear skies and moonshine reflecting on the snow create a beautiful and unreal atmosphere. This is also the Tykky time (pronounced with the y’s as the ‘e’ as in lewd): Tykky refers to the huge snow load that accumulates in winter and turns the trees into surreal sculptures that stand out on the horizon. It lasts until late February, then the wind picks up and frees the trees of their heavy burden. During this time, the northern lights glow over the winter landscape adding to the mystical feeling. Obviously, winter is cold, but the good Finnish infrastructure and the ample provision of saunas (even in rented cottages) makes a winter visit not uncomfortable.

Spring arrives in April. However, the Finns have a different association with spring than people from temperate and southern Europe. It is not the time the wildflowers appear (that

tourist information & observation tips

189

190

would be summer) but the time in which temperatures climb above zero during the day.

With perfect snow conditions, April is a popular month in Finland for outdoor activities.

Cross-country skiing is the preferred mode of transport at this time. In mid April, the birding season starts with displaying grouse, the hoot of owls and a chorus of other resident birds like Siberian Jay and Siberian Tit and Pine Grosbeak. Around early May, the thaw sets in for earnest and migrant birds start to arrive, with the second half of May being the brief but superb peak period for birdwatching. Some lakes may still be frozen, but the ones with open water are chock-a-block with birds and the bogs are alive with displaying Ruff and other waders. When the peatlands are still frozen, the migrant birds all gather in river mouths and rapids where the ice breaks first.

This magical period is short though, for in June the birds become quiet, tending first to their eggs and then to their young. But during this time, wildflowers, butterflies, dragonflies (and mosquitoes!) are starting to emerge. From mid June to early August the wildflowers, dragonflies and butterflies are in full swing (Note that this is the complete opposite of southern Europe where the wildflower season precedes the bird season). July is not a bad season for birdwatching either, because the young are fledging and can often be seen on the branches begging for food. September is the season of the Ruska, another popular time for the Finns to be out and about. The ruska refers to the autumn colours of the birches and the aspen, but also that of the Alpine Bearberries and other bushes. During a good ruska, complete hillsides turn flaring red and yellow. Late August is a good bird season again, with breeding birds having increased their numbers and migrating birds getting ready for the journey south. The autumn departures are much more spread out than the spring arrivals, however, so autumn isn’t as exciting a time for birding as spring. After late September the days shorten very quickly and the landscape prepares for the winter silence.

Lapland – the east and west routes

Lapland is too large to cover in one holiday. We advise you start in the south and gradually move north, so you see the landscape change gradually from the forest to the more rugged fell landscape. If you have the time, continue into Norway to end at the Arctic Sea. On your return south set aside time for further exploration. Because the season passes so quickly in the north, you’ll see that things have changed since you were last here. Plants that were not in flower when you started out, are now in bloom.

Due to the layout of the road network and the location of the interesting sites, there are two main routes you can choose: the western and the eastern routes. The western route starts in Rovaniemi in the south and goes from Pyhä-Luosto to Pallas-Yllästunturi and on to Kilpisjärvi into Norway. The eastern route starts in Kuusamo and travels from Oulanka to PyhäLuosto, then up to Inari (with Urho Kekkonen and Lemmenjoki National Parks), continues to Kevo and Utsjoki and then further up into Norway.

Both routes are beautiful trips with many old-growth forests, mires and fells. The western route is a bit shorter and yet more diverse. It is a little more productive for finding wild-

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

flowers and butterflies (particularly in the Kilpisjärvi area). The eastern route, in contrast, is slightly better for birdwatchers with the Kuusamo area and the fells of Kevo and Utsjoki being very rich. Kuusamo has the advantage of being visited a lot by birders, so it is easier to arrange an owl-finding trip here.

The major difference between the two trips is your entrance point into Norway. Adjacent to Kilpisjärvi (the western route), lies a region with spectacular fjords and high, glaciated mountains, providing breathtaking scenery and interesting wildflowers and butterflies. Your entrance point in Utsjoki brings you to Varanger: the only part of mainland Europe that lies within the Arctic ecoregion. Varanger and surrounding peninsulas sport a bleak but beautiful tundra landscape with a superb and unsurpassed birdlife.

A two week visit is, in our opinion, the minimum time you need to get a decent understanding of Lapland – a three or four week visit would be better still.

191 Varanger utsjoki

kilpisjärvi inari

west route

east route

rovaniemi

Travelling in the snow

kuusamo

From early November to mid May, Finnish Lapland is covered by a white blanket. This is an enchanting period, but travelling in the snow requires extra care, both when driving from site to site as well as when walking (or skiing) in the countryside.

Be aware that using snow chains are not allowed in Finland. Instead, you need snow tyres, which are equipped with small studs for extra grip. Rental cars have them fitted already.

Driving in wintertime does take more time and concentration than in summer, but the tyres give you a remarkably good grip on the icy surface.

In wintertime, boots are useless – you need cross country skis or snow shoes to get around.

If you do not have these, you can rent them at the larger tourism centres, such as Ruka (near Kuusamo), Pyhätunturi, Pallastunturi and Saariselkä. Skis are best, because you travel faster and with less noise, but snow shoes are easier to use, so if you are an inexperienced skier, these are recommended. A waterproof coat and overtrousers using a breathable material such as Goretex is important.

Winter trails usually follow a different route than summer trails, because the latter are too steep and windy for skis. Winter trails, however, cannot be travelled in summer, since they cross the (frozen) lakes and mires. In this book we describe summer routes only.

tourist information & observation tips

192

Enjoying the Ruska

The Ruska (autumn) is one of the most popular times for the Finns to go out for long walks.

The nights are frosty, the insects dead, the birds gone south and the berries picked but nature provides one more spectacle before winter kicks in: flaring autumn colours. The ruska colours are at their best in September. The birch leaves turn bright yellow and the poplars and Dwarf Cornel reddish. Most spectacular, however, is the Alpine Bearberry, which turns lipstick-red. Consequently, the most beautiful ruska walks are in Mountain Birch and lower fell zones. To see a beautiful Ruska, visit Pallas-Yllästunturi, Pyhä-Luosto or Inari Lapland. Bear in mind that the intensity of the colours vary from year to year, depending on the weather in late summer and autumn.

Permits and entrance fees

There are no permits required or entrance fees collected for the reserves. For overnight stays, some of the huts need to be reserved and paid for, but free wilderness huts are usually present at the same locations (see page 198).

Visitors’ centres and museums

All areas described in this book, except Riisitunturi National Park and Kevo strict nature reserve, have their own visitors’ centre. The information point of Lemmenjoki National Park is situated in the Siida Museum of Lapland, situated in Inari. The larger National Parks, such as Urho Kekkonen, Oulanka and Pallas-Yllästunturi, have several. These centres provide an excellent service and should be the starting point of any visit to the National Park. The helpful and know-ledgeable staff usually speak English and there are often exhibitions about the natural and cultural heritage of the park. For some of the larger exhibitions a small entrance fee is charged. The visitors’ centres also have excellent maps and booklets for sale to help you on your way. Some visitors’ centres are equipped with a cafeteria and / or have a guided tour programme with topical excursions about flora, geology, birds, ecology etc. For the full range of services provided by each of the centres, visit www.nationalparks.fi.

The contact details of the main visitors’ centres are given below: Park / reserve location phone number email Käsivarsi Kilpisjärvi +358 206 39 7990 kilpisjarvi@metsa.fi Lemmenjoki Siida Museum, Inari +358 206 39 7740 siida@metsa.fi Oulanka in the park +358 206 39 6850 oulanka@metsa.fi

Additional information centres on Oulanka in Hautajärvi and Kuusamo Pallas-Yllästunturi Pallastunturi +358 206 39 7930 pallastunturi@metsa.fi

There are additional information centres on Pallas-Yllästunturi in Äkäslompolo and Hetta,

both with excellent exhibitions Pyhä-Luosto Pyhätunturi village +358 206 39 7302 pyhaluosto@metsa.fi Syöte Syöte +358 206 39 6550 syote@metsa.fi

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

Urho Kekkonen Tankavaara +358 206 39 7251 ukpuisto@metsa.fi Kevo Wilderness Area Utsjoki (summer) +358 206 39 7792 utsjoki@metsa.fi

Siida Museum, Inari +358 206 39 7740 siida@metsa.fi

Additional information centres on Urho Kekkonen in Savukoski and Saariselkä

The Siida Museum on the Sámi life and culture in Inari (see page 155) and the Arktikum museum on wildlife, ecology and culture in Lapland in Rovaniemi (see page 141) are highly recommended.

Maps, books and websites

There are excellent hiking maps available on all National Parks. You can buy your copy at the visitors’ centres of the National Parks.

Apart from this book and the usual field guides we advise to pack the following: Den Nya Nordiska Floran by Bo Mossberg and Lennart Stenberg – this is the best book on wildflowers of the region and covers the whole Scandinavian and Icelandic flora in great detail (including superb illustrations). Unfortunately, it is published only in Scandinavian languages. Locally available is a Finnish book, Suomen Tunturikasvio by Henry Väre and Rauni Partanen – this is a lavishly illustrated photographic guide to the Finnish fell flora. Since the Lapland flora shares many species with Scotland and with the Alps, floras on those regions will be very helpful, although more local species are not covered.

In Inari, it is worth picking up the excellent nature travel guidebook to Inari Lapland and its Bird Sites by Vesa Luhta, which provides many trip suggestions complementary to the ones we give. It is available locally, for example in the Siida museum in Inari. The museum has a good collection of books for sale anyway, including various very good publications on Sami life and picture books on the region.

There are several good publications for sale about Lapland’s ecology and vegetation. The British Lapland, a Natural History, by Derek Ratcliffe (A&C Black, ISBN 0-7-136-6529-7) is highly recommended. It is a must-read for anyone with a profound interest in Lapland ecology. Books about the Sami culture and history are for sale in Lapland itself. The larger visitors’ centres have books for sale, as do the Arktikum and Siida museums. Two very good ones are Terra Ultima, by Maria Lähteenmaki and Siidastalan – from Lapp communities to modern Sámi life by Pennanen and Näkkäläjärvi.

Don’t forget to check the following list of websites in preparation for your trip: www.nationalparks.fi Official site of all National Parks, Wilderness Reserves and Strict Re-

serves. It offers a wealth of information about the background of the parks and their offerings of trails, huts, cabins and services. Run by Metsähallitus, Natural Heritage Services (NHS). www.wildnordic.fi/book-a-cabin Another site where you can book accommodation and cabins in Finland, with excellent maps of their locations.

tourist information & observation tips

193

202

the presence or absence of food – in good years they are fairly abundant, in bad they move somewhere else instead (see text box on page 32). To further complicate matters , most birds become elusive during the breeding season. They don’t spend time on frivolities like singing, but make the best of the short season to gather food.

There are ways to increase your chances, but they involve a bit of extra effort on your part.

And with 24 hours of daylight in spring and summer, you can bird till you drop! However, even then success cannot be guaranteed. So keep in mind that in order to make birdwatching in the boreal region enjoyable, one needs to cultivate two contradictory traits: the will to work hard for the birds and the wisdom to know when to call it a day.

Some general tips for birdwatching 1. Visit specific sites rather than doing long walks if birdwatching is the central purpose of your trip. These sites are described in this book under the headings ‘additional things to do in …’. For the best sites see pages 128, 132, 140-141, 154-155, 162, 180 and 186.

2. Bird the Varanger region first if this is an intended destination as most of the high arctic species (i.e. Bar-tailed Godwit, Gyrfalcon, Lapland Bunting, Long-tailed Skua) are more easily seen here (and with less risk of disturbance). The ones that you still miss you can try to find on your way south again. In the birdwatching list on the next page. we indicate which species are more easily seen in northern Norway.

3. Mid May is the best season for many birds. This is immediately after they have arrived and start singing, but before they start breeding and become elusive. The best time to see resident species (grouse, owls, Siberian Jay) is the second half of April although they can still be found in mid-may. Late July is good again because the young have fledged and the number of birds have tripled due to this year’s generation.

4. Learn the calls and songs of the birds. It will help to know which bird calls to locate and which to ignore. Copy the songs on your MP3 player and take them with you so you can make comparisons in the field. Keep in mind however, that bird song is variable so familiar birds may have a slightly different song to those you’re used to and that songs are more variable than recordings may indicate. Remember too that playing bird songs to get birds to react is highly stressful for the birds (as it implies a sudden intruder in their territory), so refrain from doing this.

5. Talk to birdwatchers on the way. At the specific bird sites you are likely to encounter other birdwatchers, which will have the most up to date tips on certain sites, nest boxes, feeding places etc.

6. Birds are most active between 2 and 7 AM during spring and summer. It pays to shift your daily rhythm to these hours as well. Evenings are usually the quietest times of the day.

7. Bird activity picks up after rainfall or windy periods at any time of the day so the above point is not invariable.

8. Some types of forest and wetlands prove to be much more rewarding than others, for

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

reasons that are not fully clear. Good sites are usually old forests with much dead wood.

Spruce forests tend to hold more birds than pine forests. Good forest sites are included in routes 1, 5, 6, 8, 16, 17, 18 and 19. Good wetland sites are the palsa and aapa mires, such as routes 6, 14 and 20.

9. Ice-free sites in early spring attract and concentrate birds before the lakes and rivers open up and their nesting sites become available. Some of these sites are given on pages 155156 and 180.

10. Visit feeders in the winter season. Many birds of the interior forest visit the feeders in Kuusamo, Ivalo, Inari and the other towns. You can find many species simply by driving by these feeders.

11. Hire a professional guide. Although we give details of Lapland’s birds, their preferred habitat and the best sites can – and do – vary year by year. So it pays to engage a local professional guide who has up to the minute information. There are several companies, particularly around Kuusamo, Finland’s birding capital, who know the best sites and have access to hides and hundreds of nest boxes for specific ‘target’ species. A highly regarded organisation is Finnature (www.finnature.com).

12. The birds come first Always keep in mind that the bird’s welfare is more important then getting a good view or photograph. Stay away from breeding birds, because your presence causes a lot of stress and damage to the birds. This goes particularly for fell and palsa birds.

Birdwatching list

Numbers between brackets refer to the routes and birdwatching sites. ‘s’ = species most numerous in the south Lapland. ‘n’ = most numerous in north Lapland. ‘nor’ = most easily seen in northern Norway, particularly Varanger.

Divers and Grebes Black-throated Diver is a fairly common breeding bird of big, open lakes throughout the region (3, 13, 19, 20, 21, 22). It is usually picked up by scanning such lakes.

Red-throated Diver (nor) is an uncommon breeding bird of smaller lakes (13, 14), but forages in large lakes (e.g. Kilpisjärvi, Inari, Jerisjärvi) . Red-necked Grebe (s) may be present on the lake south of Kuusamo.

Cormorants Cormorant (nor) is occasionally seen on Tana River and big lakes.

Swans and Geese Whooper Swan is a frequent, and highly visible, breeding bird of well vegetated lakes (road to Juuma, 1, 13, 14, 19, elsewhere along the road). Bean Goose is a fairly rare and very secretive breeding bird, which is mostly seen in early spring when it visits those sites where the ice breaks early (sites on page 155). Lesser White-fronted Goose is a very rare and highly endangered breeding bird, whose breeding locations are kept secret.

Ducks No less than 15 species of ducks occur. Common species, present on most lakes and pools, are Goldeneye and Tufted Duck. Red-breasted Merganser, Goosander and Smew are fairly common on rivers and riverside lakes (9, rivers in Oulanka, Lemmenjoki, sites

tourist information & observation tips

203

212

SPECIES LIST & TRANSLATION The following list comprises all species mentioned in this guidebook and gives their scientific, German and Dutch names. Some have an asterisk (*) behind them, indicating an unofficial name. See page 7 for more details.

Plants

English Scientific German Dutch Alder, Grey Alnus incana Grau-Erle Witte els Angelica, Garden Angelica archangelica Echte Engelwurz Grote engelwortel Arnica, Narrow-leaved* Arnica angustifolia Alpen-Arnika Alpenvalkruid* Aspen, Trembling Populus tremula Espe Ratelpopulier Asphodel, Scottish Tofieldia pusilla Kleine Simsenlilie Moerasbieslelie Avens, Mountain Dryas octopetala Silberwurz Achtster Azalea, Trailing Loiseleuria procumbens Alpenazalee Alpenazalea Baneberry, Red Actaea erythrocarpa Rotfrüchtiges Christophskraut* Rode gifbes* Bartsia, Alpine Bartsia alpina Alpenhelm Alpenhelm Bearberry Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Echte Bärentraube Berendruif Bearberry, Alpine Arctostaphylos alpina Alpen-Bärentraube Alpenberendruif Bedstraw, Fen Galium uliginosum Moor-Labkraut Ruw walstro Bilberry Vaccinium myrtillus Blaubeere Blauwe bosbes Bilberry, Bog Vaccinium uliginosum Rauschbeere Rijsbes Birch, Downy Betula pubescens Moor-Birke Zachte berk Birch, Dwarf Betula nana Zwerg-Birke Dwergberk Birch, Kiilopää* Betula pubescens var.

Kiilopää Moor-Birke* Kiilopääberk*

apressa Birch, Mountain Betula pubescens Fjell Moor-Birke* Fjellberk*

czerepanovii Birch, Silver Betula pendula Hängebirke Ruwe berk Bistort, Alpine Persicaria vivipara Knöllchen-Knöterich Levendbarende duizendknoop Bladderwort, Common Utricularia vulgaris Gewöhnlicher Wasserschlauch Groot blaasjeskruid Bladderwort, Intermediate Utricularia intermedia Mittlerer Wasserschlauch Plat blaasjeskruid Bladderwort, Lesser Utricularia minor Kleiner Wasserschlauch Klein blaasjeskruid Bogbean Menyanthes trifoliata Fieberklee Waterdrieblad Bramble, Arctic Rubus arcticus Allackerbeere Noordse braam Bramble, Stone Rubus saxatilis Steinbeere Steenbraam Bulrush Typha sp. Rohrkolben Lisdodde Butterbur, Lapland* Petasites frigidus Fjell Pestwurz* Poolhoefblad

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

Buttercup, Lapland Ranunculus lapponicus Greniers Berg-Hahnenfuss Laplandboterbloem* Buttercup, Pygmy Ranunculus pygmaeus Zwerg-Hahnenfuss Dwergboterbloem Buttercup, Snow Ranunculus nivalis Schnee-Hahnenfuss Sneeuwboterbloem Butterwort, Alpine Pinguicula alpina Alpen-Fettkraut Alpenvetblad Butterwort, Common Pinguicula vulgaris Gewöhnliches Fettkraut Gewoon vetblad Butterwort, Small* Pinguicula villosa Zwerg-Fettkraut* Dwergvetblad* Campion, Moss Silene acaulis Stengelloses Leimkraut Stengelloze silene Cat’s-foot Antennaria dioica Gewöhnliches Katzenpfötchen Rozenkransje Catchfly, Alpine Lychnis alpina Alpen-Lichtnelke Alpenpekanjer Cherry, Bird Prunus padus Gewöhnliche Traubenkirsche Gewone Vogelkers Cinquefoil, Alpine Potentilla crantzii Zottiges Fingerkraut Donzige ganzerik Cinquefoil, Marsh Potentilla palustris Sumpf-Blutauge Wateraardbei Cloudberry Rubus chamaemorus Moltebeere Kruipbraam Clubmoss, Alpine Diphasiastrum alpinum Alpen-Flachbärlapp Alpenwolfsklauw Clubmoss, Fir Huperzia selago Tannen-Bärlapp Dennenwolfsklauw Clubmoss, Interrupted Lycopodium annotinum Berg-Bärlap Stekende wolfsklauw Clubmoss, Issler’s Diphasiastrum complanatum Gewöhnlicher Flachbärlapp Vlakke wolfsklauw Clubmoss, Running Lycopodium clavatum Keulen-Bärlapp Grote wolfsklauw Club-rush Schoenoplectus sp. Teichbinsen Mattenbies Coralroot Corallorhiza trifida Korallenwurz Koraalwortel Cornel, Dwarf Cornus suecica Schwedischer Hartriegel Zweedse kornoelje Cotton-grass, Broad-leaved Eriophorum latifolium Breitblättriges Wollgras Breed wollegras Cotton-grass, Common Eriophorum angustifolium Schmalblättriges Wollgras Veenpluis Cotton-grass, Hare’s-tail Eriophorum vaginatum Scheiden-Wollgras Eenarig wollegras Cotton-grass, Red Eriophorum russeolum Braunes Wollgras Rood wollegras* Cotton-grass, Scheuchzer’s Eriophorum scheuchzeri Scheuchzers Wollgras Scheuchzers wollegras* Cotton-grass, Slender Eriophorum gracile Schlankes Wollgras Slank wollegras Cowberry Vaccinium vitis-idaea Preiselbeere Rode bosbes Cow-wheat, Common Melampyrum pratense Wiesen-Wachtelweizen Hengel Cow-wheat, Small Melampyrum sylvaticum Wald-Wachtelweizen Boshengel Cranberry Vaccinium oxycoccus Gewöhnliche Moosbeere Kleine veenbes Cranberry, Small Vaccinium microcarpum Klein-Torfbeere Dwergveenbes* Crane’s-bill, Wood Geranium sylvaticum Wald-Storchschnabel Bosooievaarsbek Crowberry Empetrum nigrum Krähenbeere Kraaihei Crowberry, Alpine Empetrum (nigrum) Zwittrige Krähenbeere Alpenkraaihei

hermaphroditum Crowfoot, Glacier Ranunculus glacialis Gletscher-Hahnenfuss Gletsjerranonkel Cudweed, Highland Gnaphalium norvegicum Norwegisches Ruhrkraut Noorse droogbloem* Currant, Lapland Red* Ribes spicatum lapponicum Lappland Ährige Lapland aalbes*

Johannisbeere* Diapensia Diapensia lapponica Diapensia Diapensia*

species list & translation

213

214

Diplazium* Diplazium sibiricum Diplazium* Diplazium* Eyebright Euphrasia sp. Augentrost Ogentroost Fern, Alpine Lady Athyrium distentifolium Alpen-Frauenfarn Alpenwijfjesvaren* Fern, Beech Phegopteris connectilis Gewöhnlicher Buchenfarn Smalle beukvaren Fern, Lady Athyrium filix-femina Wald-Frauenfarn Wijfjesvaren Fern, Northern Buckler Dryopteris expansa Feingliedriger Wurmfarn Tere stekelvaren Fern, Oak Gymnocarpium dryopteris Eichenfarn Gebogen driehoeksvaren Fern, Ostrich Matteuccia struthiopteris Straußenfarn Struisvaren Fern, Parsley Cryptogramma crispa Rollfarn Gekroesde rolvaren Fern, Scented Male* Dryopteris fragrans Wohlriechender Wurmfarn Welriekende mannetjes-

varen* Fleabane, One-flowered Erigeron uniflorus Einköpfiges Berufkraut Eenhoofdige fijnstraal Forget-me-not, Fell Myosotis decumbens Niederliegendes Liggend vergeet-mij Vergissmeinnicht nietje* Gentian, Snow Gentiana nivalis Schnee-Enzian Sneeuwgentiaan Globeflower Trollius europaeus Trollblume Trollius Goldenrod Solidago virgaurea Gewöhnliche Goldrute Echte guldenroede Grass-of-Parnassus Parnassia palustris Herzblatt Parnassia Harebell Campanula rotundifolia Rundblättrige Glockenblume Grasklokje Hawk’s-beard, Alpine Hieracium alpinum Alpen-Habichtskraut Alpenhavikskruid Heath, Blue See Mountain Heath Heath, Moss Cassiope hypnoides Moosige Schuppenheide Mosheide Heath, Mountain Phyllodoce caerulea Blauheide Blauwe heide* Heath, Twinflower* Cassiope tetragona Maiglöckchenheide Klokjesheide* Heather Calluna vulgaris Heidekraut Struikhei Helleborine, Dark-red Epipactis atrorubens Braunrote Stendelwurz Bruinrode wespenorchis Herb-paris Paris quadrifolia Einbeere Eenbes Horsetail, Water Equisetum fluviatile Teich-Schachtelhalm Holpijp Horsetail, Wood Equisetum sylvaticum Wald-Schachtelhalm Bospaardenstaart Jacob’s-ladder, Lapland* Polemonium acutiflorum Lappland-Himmelsleiter* Lapland jakobsladder* Juniper Juniperus communis Gewöhnlicher Wacholder Jeneverbes Lady’s-tresses, Creeping Goodyera repens Netzblatt Dennenorchis Larch , Siberian Larix sibirica Sibirische Lärche Siberische Larix Leatherleaf Chamaedaphne calyculata Torfgränke Turfheide* Lichen, Reindeer See Moss, Reindeer Lichen, Beard Usnea sp. Bartflechte Baardmos Lily, May Maianthemum bifolium Schattenblume Dalkruid Loosestrife, Tufted Lysimachia thyrsiflora Straussblütiger Gilbweiderich Moeraswederik Lousewort, Fell* Pedicularis hirsuta Behaartes Läusekraut Harig kartelblad Lousewort, Lapland Pedicularis lapponica Lapland-Läusekraut Lapland kartelblad* Lousewort, Marsh Pedicularis palustris Sumpf-Läusekraut Moeraskartelblad

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

Marigold, Marsh Caltha palustris Sumpf-Dotterblume Dotterbloem Meadow-rue, Alpine Thalictrum alpinum Alpen-Wiesenraute Alpenruit Meadow-rue, Kemi* Thalictrum kemense Kemense-Wiesenraute* Kemense ruit* Mezereon Daphne mezereum Gewöhnlicher Seidelbast Rood peperboompje Milk-vetch, Alpine Astragalus alpinus Alpen-Tragant Alpentragant Milk-vetch, Frigid* Astragalus frigidus Gletscher-Tragant Gletschertragant* Moss, Hair Polytrichum sp. Widertonmoos Haarmos Moss, Peat Sphagnum sp. Torfmoos Veenmos Moss, Reindeer Cladonia rangiferina Echte Rentierflechte Echt rendiermos Moss, Yellow Moosedung Splachnum luteum Parasolmoos* Parasolmos* Orchid, Blood Marsh Dactylorhiza cruenta Blutrotes Knabenkraut Bloedvlekkenorchis Orchid, Bog Hammarbya paludosa Sumpf-Weichorchis Veenmosorchis Orchid, Calypso See Fairy Slipper Orchid, Early Marsh Dactylorhiza incarnata Fleischfarbenes Knabenkraut Vleeskleurige orchis Orchid, False Chamorchis alpina Zwergorchis Dwergorchis Orchid, Fragrant Gymnadenia conopsea Mücken-Händelwurz Grote muggenorchis Orchid, Frog Dactylorhiza viride Hohlzunge Groene nachtorchis Orchid, Ghost Epipogium aphyllum Blattloser Widerbart Spookorchis Orchid, Heath Spotted Dactylorhiza maculata Geflecktes Knabenkraut Gevlekte orchis Orchid, Lapland Marsh Dactylorhiza lapponica Lappländisches Knabenkraut Lapland orchis Orchid, Lesser Butterfly Platanthera bifolia Weisses Breitkölbchen Welriekende nachtorchis Orchid, Dactylorhiza traunsteineri Traunsteiners Knabenkraut Smalbladige orchis Narrow-leaved Marsh Orchid, Pseudorchis straminea Strohgelbe Höswurz Noordse muggenorchis* Northern Small White* / Weisszüngel Oxytropis, Yellow Oxytropis campestris Alpen-Spitzkiel Gele spitskiel* Oysterplant Mertensia maritima Austernpflanze Oesterplant Pine, Scots Pinus sylvestris Waldkiefer Grove den Poplar Populus sp. Pappel Populier Primrose, Straight Primula stricta Aufrechte Schlüsselblume Stijve sleutelbloem Rannoch-rush Scheuchzeria palustris Blumenbinse Veenbloembies Reed, Common Phragmites australis Schilfrohr Riet Rhododendron, Lapland Rhododendron lapponicum Lappland-Alpenrose Laplandroosje* Rosemary, Bog Andromeda polifolia Rosmarinheide Lavendelheide Rose-root Rhodiola rosea Rosenwurz Rozenwortel Rowan Sorbus aucuparia Eberesche Wilde lijsterbes Rush, Three-leaved Juncus trifidus Dreispaltige Binse Driebladige rus* Saw-wort, Alpine Saussurea alpina Gewöhnliche Alpenscharte Echte alpenschaarde Saxifrage, Alpine Saxifraga nivalis Schnee-Steinbrech Sneeuwsteenbreek Saxifrage, Bulbil* Saxifraga foliolosa Bulbillen-Steinbrech* Schubsteenbreek Saxifrage, Marsh Saxifraga hirculus Moor-Steinbrech Bokjessteenbreek

species list & translation

215

216

Saxifrage, Purple Saxifraga oppositifolia Gegenblättriger Steinbrech Zuiltjessteenbreek Saxifrage, Starry Saxifraga stellaris Stern-Steinbrech Stersteenbreek Saxifrage, Yellow Saxifraga aizoides Fetthennen-Steinbrech Gele bergsteenbreek Sceptre, St.-Charles Pedicularis Karlszepter Karelscepter

sceptrum-carolinum Sedge, Bottle Carex rostrata Schnabel-Segge Snavelzegge Sibbaldia Sibbaldia procumbens Alpen-Gelbling Sibbaldia* Slipper, Fairy Calypso bulbosa Norne Bosnimf Slipper, Lady’s Cypripedium calceolum Frauenschuh Vrouwenschoentje Sorrel, Mountain Oxyria digyna Säuerling Bergzuring Sow-thistle, Alpine Cicerbita alpina Alpen-Milchlattich Alpensla Speedwell, Long-leaved Veronica longifolia Langblättriger Ehrenpreis Lange ereprijs Spruce, Norway Picea abies Gemeine Fichte Fijnspar Spruce, Siberian Picea abies obovata Siberische Fichte* Siberische spar Sundew, Great Drosera anglica Langblättriger Sonnentau Lange zonnedauw Sundew, Round-leaved Drosera rotundifolia Rundblättriger Sonnentau Ronde zonnendauw Tea, Labrador Ledum palustre Sumpf-Porst Moerasrozemarijn Thistle, Melancholy Cirsium helenioides Verschiedenblättrige Ongelijkbladige distel

Kratzdistel Thyme, Tana* Thymus serpyllum tanaensis Tana-Thymian* Tana tijm* Twayblade, Lesser Neottia cordata Kleines Zweiblatt Kleine keverorchis Violet, Dwarf Marsh Viola epipsila Torf-Veilchen Turfviooltje* Violet, Marsh Viola palustris Sumpf-Veilchen Moerasvioolje Violet, Yellow Wood Viola biflora Zweiblütiges Veilchen Tweebloemig viooltje Willow, Goat Salix caprea Sal-Weide Boswilg Willow, Net-leaved Salix reticulata Netz-Weide Netnervige wilg Willow. Dwarf Salix herbacea Kraut-Weide Kruidwilg Wintergreen, Chickweed Trientalis europaea Siebenstern Zevenster Wintergreen, Common Pyrola minor Kleines Wintergrün Klein wintergroen Wintergreen, One-flowered Moneses uniflora Moosauge Eenbloemig wintergroen Wintergreen, Round-leaved Pyrola rotundifolia Rundblättriges Wintergrün Rond wintergroen Wintergreen, Serrated Orthilia secunda Nickendes Wintergrün Eenzijdig wintergroen Yellow-rattle Rhinanthus minor Kleiner Klappertopf Kleine ratelaar

Mammals

English Scientific German Dutch Badger Meles meles Dachs Das Bat Chiroptera Fledermäuse Vleermuizen Bear, Brown Ursus arctos Braunbär Bruine beer Deer, Roe Capreolus capreolus Reh Ree Dog, Raccoon Nyctereutes procyonoides Marderhund Wasbeerhond

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

Elk Alces alces Elch Eland Fox, Arctic Alopex lagopus Polarfuchs Poolvos Fox, Red Vulpes vulpes Rotfuchs Vos Hare, Mountain Lepus timidus Schneehase Sneeuwhaas Lemming, Norway Lemmus lemmus Berglemming Berglemming Lemming, Wood Myopus schisticolor Waldlemming Boslemming Lynx Lynx lynx Luchs Lynx Marten, Pine Martes martes Baummarder Boommarter Mouse, House Mus musculus Hausmaus Huismuis Otter Lutra lutra Fischotter Otter Reindeer Rangifer tarandus tarandus Rentier Rendier Reindeer, Forest Rangifer tarandus fennicus Europäisches Waldrentier Bosrendier Squirrel, Flying Pteromys volans Gleithörnchen Vliegende eekhoorn Squirrel, Red Sciurus vulgaris Eichhörnchen Gewone eekhoorn Stoat Mustela ermina Hermelin Hermelijn Vole, Field Microtus agrestis Erdmaus Aardmuis Vole, Grey Red-backed Myodes rufocanus Graurötelmaus Rosgrijze woelmuis Vole, Northern Red-backed Myodes rutilus Polarrötelmaus Kleine rosse woelmuis Vole, Root Microtus oeconomus Sumpfmaus Noordse woelmuis Weasel Mustela nivalis Mauswiesel Wezel Wolf Canis lupus Wolf Wolf Wolverine Gulo gulo Vielfrass Veelvraat

Birds

English Scientific German Dutch Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Mönchsgrasmücke Zwartkop Bluetail, Red-flanked Tarsiger cyanurus Blauschwanz Blauwstaart Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Blaukehlchen Blauwborst Brambling Fringilla montifringilla Bergfink Keep Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula Gimpel Goudvink Bunting, Lapland Calcarius lapponicus Spornammer IJsgors Bunting, Little Emberiza pusilla Zwergammer Dwerggors Bunting, Reed Emberiza schoeniclus Rohrammer Rietgors Bunting, Rustic Emberiza rustica Waldammer Bosgors Bunting, Snow Plectrophenax nivalis Schneeammer Sneeuwgors Buzzard, Rough-legged Buteo lagopus Rauhfussbussard Ruigpootbuizerd Capercaillie Tetrao urogallus Auerhuhn Auerhoen Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Buchfink Vink Cormorant, Great Phalacrocorax carbo Kormoran Aalscholver Crane Grus grus Kranich Kraanvogel Crossbill Loxia curvirostra Fichtenkreuzschnabel Kruisbek

species list & translation

217

218

Crossbill, Parrot Loxia pytyopsittacus Kiefernkreuzschnabel Grote kruisbek Crossbill, Two-barred Loxia leucoptera Bindenkreuzschnabel Witbandkruisbek Crow, Hooded Corvus corone cornix Nebelkrähe Bonte kraai Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Kuckuck Koekoek Curlew Numenius arquata Grosser Brachvogel Wulp Dipper Cinclus cinclus Wasseramsel Waterspreeuw Diver, Black-throated Gavia arctica Prachttaucher Parelduiker Diver, Red-throated Gavia stellata Sterntaucher Roodkeelduiker Dotterel Charadrius morinellus Mornellregenpfeifer Morinelplevier Duck, Long-tailed Clangula hyemalis Eisente IJseend Duck, Tufted Aythya fuligula Reiherente Kuifeend Dunlin Calidris alpina Alpenstrandläufer Bonte strandloper Dunnock Prunella modularis Heckenbraunelle Heggenmus Eagle, Golden Aquila chrysaetos Steinadler Steenarend Eagle, White-tailed Haliaeetus albicilla Seeadler Zeearend Eider Somateria mollisima Eiderente Eider Eider, King Somateria spectabilis Prachteiderente Koningseider Eider, Steller’s Polysticta stelleri Scheckente Steller’s eider Fieldfare Turdus pilaris Wacholderdrossel Kramsvogel Flycatcher, Pied Ficedula hypoleuca Trauerschnäpper Bonte vliegenvanger Flycatcher, Spotted Muscicapa striata Grauschnäpper Grauwe vliegenvanger Gadwall Anas strepera Schnatterente Krakeend Garganey Anas querquedula Knäkente Zomertaling Godwit, Bar-tailed Limosa lapponica Pfuhlschnepfe Rosse grutto Goldcrest Regulus regulus Wintergoldhähnchen Goudhaan Goldeneye Bucephala clangula Schellente Brilduiker Goosander Mergus merganser Gänsesäger Grote zaagbek Goose, Bean Anser fabalis Saatgans Rietgans Goose, Lesser White-fronted Anser erythropus Zwerggans Dwerggans Goshawk Accipiter gentilis Habicht Havik Grebe, Red-necked Podiceps grisegena Rothalstaucher Roodhalsfuut Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Grünling Groenling Greenshank Tringa nebularia Grünschenkel Groenpootruiter Grosbeak, Pine Pinicola enucleator Hakengimpel Haakbek Grouse, Black Tetrao tetrix Birkhuhn Korhoen Grouse, Hazel See Hazel Hen Grouse, Willow Lagopus lagopus Moorschneehuhn Moerassneeuwhoen Gull, Black-headed Larus ridibundus Lachmöwe Kokmeeuw Gull, Common Larus canus Sturmmöwe Stormmeeuw Gull, Greater Black-backed Larus marinus Mantelmöwe Grote mantelmeeuw Gull, Herring Larus argentatus Silbermöwe Zilvermeeuw

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

Gull, Lesser Black-backed Larus graellsii Heringsmöwe Kleine mantelmeeuw Gull, Little Larus minutus Zwergmöwe Dwergmeeuw Gyrfalcon Falco rusticolus Gerfalke Giervalk Harrier, Hen Circus cyaneus Kornweihe Blauwe kiekendief Hen, Hazel Bonasa bonasia Haselhuhn Hazelhoen Honey-buzzard Pernis apivorus Wespenbussard Wespendief Jay Garrulus glandarius Eichelhäher Gaai Jay, Siberian Perisoreus infaustus Unglückshäher Taigagaai Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Turmfalke Torenvalk Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Kiebitz Kievit Lark, Shore Eremophila alpestris Ohrenlerche Strandleeuwerik Magpie Pica pica Elster Ekster Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Stockente Wilde eend Martin, House Delichon urbica Mehlschwalbe Huiszwaluw Martin, Sand Riparia riparia Uferschwalbe Oeverzwaluw Merganser, Red-breasted Mergus serrator Mittelsäger Middelste zaagbek Merlin Falco columbarius Merlin Smelleken Osprey Pandion haliaetus Fischadler Visarend Ouzel, Ring Turdus torquatus Ringdrossel Beflijster Owl, Boreal See Tengmalm’s owl Owl, Eagle Bubo bubo Uhu Oehoe Owl, Great Grey Strix nebulosa Bartkauz Laplanduil Owl, Hawk Surnia ulula Sperbereule Sperweruil Owl, Pygmy Glaucidium passerinum Sperlingskauz Dwerguil Owl, Short-eared Asio flammeus Sumpfohreule Velduil Owl, Snowy Bubo scandiacus Schnee-Eule Sneeuwuil Owl, Tengmalm’s Aegolius funereus Rauhfusskauz Ruigpootuil Owl, Ural Strix uralensis Habichtskauz Oeraluil Peregrine Falco peregrinus Wanderfalke Slechtvalk Phalarope, Red-necked Phalaropus lobatus Odinshühnchen Grauwe franjepoot Pigeon, Feral Columba livia f. domestica Stadttaube Stadsduif Pigeon, Wood Columba palumbus Ringeltaube Houtduif Pintail Anas acuta Spiessente Pijlstaart Pipit, Meadow Anthus pratensis Wiesenpieper Graspieper Pipit, Red-throated Anthus cervinus Rotkehlpieper Roodkeelpieper Pipit, Tree Anthus trivialis Baumpieper Boompieper Plover, Golden Pluvialis apricaria Goldregenpfeifer Goudplevier Plover, Ringed Charadrius hiaticula Sandregenpfeifer Bontbekplevier Ptarmigan Lagopus mutus Alpenschneehuhn Alpensneeuwhoen Raven Corvus corax Kolkrabe Raaf Redpoll Carduelis flammea s.l. Birkenzeisig Barmsijs

species list & translation

219

220

Redpoll, Arctic Redshank Redshank, Spotted Redstart, Common Redwing Robin Rosefinch, Common Ruff Sandpiper, Broad-billed Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Green Sandpiper, Wood Scaup Scoter, Common Scoter, Velvet Shoveler Shrike, Great Grey Siskin Skua, Long-tailed Skylark Smew Snipe Snipe, Jack Sparrow, House Sparrowhawk Stint, Temminck’s Swallow, Barn Swan, Whooper Swift, Common Teal Tern, Arctic Tern, Common Thrush, Mistle Thrush, Song Tit, Blue Tit, Coal Tit, Crested Tit, Great Tit, Siberian Tit, Willow Treecreeper, Eurasian

Carduelis hornemanni Polarbirkenzeisig Witstuitbarmsijs Tringa totanus Rotschenkel Tureluur Tringa erythropus Dunkler Wasserläufer Zwarte ruiter Phoenicurus phoenicurus Gartenrotschwanz Gekraagde roodstaart Turdus iliacus Rotdrossel Koperwiek Erithacus rubecula Rotkehlchen Roodborst Carpodacus erythrinus Karmingimpel Roodmus Philomachus pugnax Kampfläufer Kemphaan Limicola falcinellus Sumpfläufer Breedbekstrandloper Actitis hypoleucos Flussuferläufer Oeverloper Tringa ochropus Waldwasserläufer Witgat Tringa glareola Bruchwasserläufer Bosruiter Aythya marila Bergente Topper Melanitta nigra Trauerente Zwarte zeeeend Melanitta fusca Samtente Grote zeeeend Anas clypeata Löffelente Slobeend Lanius excubitor Raubwürger Klapekster Carduelis spinus Erlenzeisig Sijs Stercorarius longicaudus Falkenraubmöwe Kleinste jager Alauda arvensis Feldlerche Veldleeuwerik Mergus albellus Zwergsäger Nonnetje Gallinago gallinago Bekassine Watersnip Lymnocryptes minimus Zwergschnepfe Bokje Passer domesticus Haussperling Huismus Accipiter nisus Sperber Sperwer Calidris temminckii Temminckstrandläufer Temmincks strandloper Hirundo rustica Rauchschwalbe Boerenzwaluw Cygnus cygnus Singschwan Wilde zwaan Apus apus Mauersegler Gierzwaluw Anas crecca Krickente Wintertaling Sterna paradisaea Küstenseeschwalbe Noordse stern Sterna hirundo Flussseeschwalbe Visdief Turdus viscivorus Misteldrossel Grote lijster Turdus philomelos Singdrossel Zanglijster Parus caerulus Blaumeise Pimpelmees Parus ater Tannenmeise Zwarte mees Parus cristatus Haubenmeise Kuifmees Parus major Kohlmeise Koolmees Parus cinctus Lapplandmeise Bruinkopmees Parus montanus Weidenmeise Matkop Certhia familiaris Waldbaumläufer Taigaboomkruiper

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

Wagtail, Grey Motacilla cinerea Gebirgsstelze Grote gele kwikstaart Wagtail, Grey-headed Motacilla (flava) thunbergi Schafstelze Gele kwikstaart (Yellow) Wagtail, White Motacilla alba Bachstelze Witte kwikstaart Warbler, Arctic Phylloscopus borealis Wanderlaubsänger Noordse boszanger Warbler, Blyth Reed Acrocephalus dumetorum Buschrohrsänger Struikrietzanger Warbler, Booted Hippolais caligata Buschspötter Kleine spotvogel Warbler, Garden Sylvia borin Gartengrasmücke Tuinfluiter Warbler, Greenish Phylloscopus trochiloides Grünlaubsänger Grauwe fitis Warbler, Sedge Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Schilfrohrsänger Rietzanger Warbler, Willow Phylloscopus trochilus Fitis Fitis Waxwing Bombycilla garrulus Seidenschwanz Pestvogel Wheatear, Northern Oenanthe oenanthe Steinschmätzer Tapuit Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Regenbrachvogel Regenwulp Wigeon Anas penelope Pfeifente Smient Woodpecker, Black Dryocopus martius Schwarzspecht Zwarte specht Woodpecker, Great Spotted Dendrocopos major Buntspecht Grote bonte specht Woodpecker, Lesser Spotted Dendrocopos minor Kleinspecht Kleine bonte specht Woodpecker, Three-toed Picoides tridactylus Dreizehenspecht Drieteenspecht Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Zaunkönig Winterkoning Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella Goldammer Geelgors

Reptiles, Amphibians and Fish English Adder Frog, Grass Frog, Moor Lizard, Viviparous Stickleback Toad, Common Trout

Scientific German Vipera berus Kreuzotter Rana temporaria Grasfrosch Rana arvalis Moorfrosch Lacerta viviparia Bergeidechse Gasterosteidae Stichling Bufo bufo Erdkröte Salmo trutta Forelle

Insects English Ants, Wood Argus, Geranium Blackfly Blue, Arctic Blue, Common Blue, Cranberry Blue, Holly

Dutch Adder Bruine kikker Heikikker Levendbarende hagedis Stekelbaars Gewone pad Forel

Scientific German Dutch Formica sp.

Waldameisen Bosmieren Eumedonia eumedon Storchschnabel-Bläuling Zwart blauwtje Simuliidae Kriebelmücken Kriebelmuggen Plebejus aquilo Arktischer Bläuling Arctisch manschildblauwtje Polyommatus icarus Hauhechel-Bläuling Icarusblauwtje Plebejus optilete Hochmoor-Bläuling Veenbesblauwtje Celastrina argiolus Faulbaum-Bläuling Boomblauwtje

species list & translation

221

222

Blue, Idas Plebejus idas Ginster-Bläuling Vals heideblauwtje Bluet, Arctic Coenagrion johanssoni Nordische Azurjungfer Noordse waterjuffer Bluet, Common Enallagma cyathigerum Gemeine Becherjungfer Watersnuffel Bluet, Crescent Coenagrion lunulatum Mond-Azurjungfer Maanwaterjuffer Bluet, Dark Coenagrion armatum Hauben-Azurjungfer Donkere waterjuffer Bluet, Spearhead Coenagrion hastulatum Speer-Azurjungfer Speerwaterjuffer Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni Zitronenfalter Citroentje Brown, Arran Erebia ligea Weissbindiger Mohrenfalter Boserebia Brown, Northern Wall Lasiommata petropolitana Braunscheckauge Kleine rotsvlinder Chaser, Four-spotted Libellula quadrimaculata Vierfleck Viervlek Comma Nymphalis c-album C-Falter Gehakkelde aurelia Damsel, Large Red Pyrrhosoma nymphula Frühe Adonisjungfer Vuurjuffer Darter, Black Sympetrum danae Schwarze Heidelibelle Zwarte heidelibel Demoiselle, Beautiful Calopteryx virgo Blauflügel-Prachtlibelle Bosbeekjuffer Emerald, Alpine Somatochlora alpestris Alpen-Smaragdlibelle Taigaglanslibel Emerald, Brilliant Somatochlora metallica Glänzende Smaragdlibelle Metaalglanslibel Emerald, Downy Cordulia aenea Gemeine Smaragdlibelle Smaragdlibel Emerald, Northern Somatochlora arctica Arktische Smaragdlibelle Hoogveenglanslibel Emerald, Treeline Somatochlora sahlbergi Polar-Smaragdlibelle Toendraglanslibel Fritillary, Arctic Boloria chariclea Arktischer Perlmuttfalter Arctische parelmoer vlinder Fritillary, Bog Boloria eunomia Randring-Perlmutterfalter Ringoogparelmoervlinder Fritillary, Cranberry Boloria aquilionaris Hochmoor-Perlmutterfalter Veenbesparelmoervlinder Fritillary, Dark Green Argynnis aglaja Grosser Perlmutterfalter Grote parelmoervlinder Fritillary, Dusky-winged Boloria improba Dunkeler Perlmutterfalter* Donkere parelmoervlinder Fritillary, Freyja’s Boloria freija Freija-Perlmutterfalter Freija’s parelmoervlinder Fritillary, Frigga Boloria frigga Frigga-Perlmutterfalter* Frigga’s parelmoervlinder Fritillary, Lapland Euphydryas iduna Lappland-Scheckenfalter Geelbonte parelmoer vlinder Fritillary, Mountain Boloria napaea Ähnlicher Perlmutterfalter Bergparelmoervlinder Fritillary, Pearl-bordered Boloria euphrosyne Frühlings-Perlmuttfalter Zilvervlek Fritillary, Polar Boloria polaris Polar-Perlmutterfalter* Poolparelmoervlinder Fritillary, Boloria selene Braunfleckiger Perlmutter- Zilveren maan Small Pearl-bordered falter Fritillary, Thor’s Boloria thore Alpen-Perlmutterfalter Thor’s parelmoervlinder Grasshopper, Forest Podisma pedestris Gewöhnliche Gebirgsschrecke Bergsprinkhaan Grasshopper, Mountain Melanoplus frigidus Nordische Gebirgsschrecke Noordelijke

bergsprinkhaan Grasshopper, Chorthippus montanus Sumpfgrashüpfer Zompsprinkhaan Water-meadow Grayling, Arctic Oeneis bore Arktischer Samtfalter Pooltoendravlinder

crossbill guides • finnish lapland including kuusamo

Grayling, Baltic Oeneis jutta Baltischer Samtfalter Baltische toendravlinder Grayling, Norse Oeneis norna Nordischer Samtfalter* Noordse toendravlinder Groundhopper, Two-spotted Tetrix bipunctata Zweipunkt-Dornschrecke Bosdoorntje Hawker, Azure Aeshna caerulea Alpen-Mosaikjungfer Azuurglazenmaker Hawker, Bog Aeshna subarctica Hochmoor-Mosaikjungfer Noordse glazenmaker Hawker, Moorland Aeshna juncea Torf-Mosaikjungfer Venglazenmaker Heath, Large Coenonympha tulia Grosser Heufalter Veenhooibeestje Horsefly Tabanidae Bremsen Dazen Mayflies Ephemeroptera Eintagsfliegen Eendagsvliegen / Haften Midge Ceratopogonidae Gnitz Knut Mosquito Culicidae Stechmücken Steekmuggen Moth, Autumnal Epirrita autumnata Birken-Moorwald- Novemberspanner

Herbstspanner Red-eye, Large Erythromma najas Grosses Granatauge Grote roodoogjuffer Ringlet, Arctic Erebia disa Nordischer Mohrenfalter* Noordse erebia Ringlet, Arctic Woodland Erebia polaris Polar-Mohrenfalter* Poolerebia Ringlet, Dewy Erebia pandrose Graubrauner Mohrenfalter Gewone dauwerebia Ringlet, Lapland Erebia embla Lappland-Mohrenfalter Siberische erebia Skipper, Alpine Grizzled Pyrgus andromedae Alpen-Würfel-Dickkopffalter Bergspikkeldikkopje Skipper, Checkered Carterocephalus palaemon Gelbwürfeliger Dickkopffalter Bont dikkopje Skipper, Grizzled Pyrgus malvae Kleiner Würfel-Dickkopffalter Aardbeivlinder Skipper, Northern Grizzled Pyrgus centaureae Nordlicher Würfel- Noords spikkeldikkopje

Dickkopffalter* Spreadwing, Common Lestes sponsa Gemeine Binsenjungfer Gewone pantserjuffer Spreadwing, Robust Lestes dryas Glänzende Binsenjungfer Tangpantserjuffer White, Peak Pontia callidice Alpen-Weissling Bergresedawitje White, Small Pieris rapae Kleiner Kohlweissling Klein koolwitje Whiteface, Ruby Leucorrhinia rubicunda Nordische Moosjungfer Noordse witsnuitlibel Whiteface, Small Leucorrhinia dubia Kleine Moosjungfer Venwitsnuitlibel Yellow, Moorland Clouded Colias paleano Hochmoorgelbling Veenluzernevlinder Yellow, Northern Clouded Colias hecla Skandinavischer Gelbling Noordse luzernevlinder Yellow, Pale Arctic Clouded Colias tyche Polar-Gelbling* Vale luzernevlinder

species list & translation

223

CROS SBILL GUIDES IF YOU WANT TO SEE MORE

More titles are in preparation. Check our website for further details and updates.

WWW.CROSSBILLGUIDES.ORG

CROSSBILL GUIDES FOUNDATION Finnish Lapland is one of the last great wildernesses of Europe.

Huge expanses of silent coniferous forests, impenetrable bogs and vast open fells comprise the awe-inspiring landscape of Lapland. It is a paradise for hikers and adventurers who wish to experience nature in the raw.

This Lapland wilderness is by no means empty, though.

Many sought-after bird species enliven the forests, fells and peatlands, making Finnish Lapland a paradise for European birdwatchers. The collection of rare wildflowers, dragonflies and butterflies and the presence of large predators like Wolf and Brown Bear confirms Finnish Lapland as a must-see destination for nature lovers.

The guide that covers the wildflowers, birds and all other wildlife Routes, where-to-watch-birds information and other observation tips Insightful information on landscape and ecology www . crossbillguides . org

-

if you want to see more