15 minute read
IN THE KITCHEN: The where and how for holiday cocktails
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Yuletide
What’s in your glass?
By Chef Clyde Van Arsdall IV
As you crest the top of the bridge heading into Coronado, the fi rst thing that grabs your eye is the Hotel Del: all lit up, framed in seasonal lights. It is like a beacon welcoming us home for the holidays. Turning on to Orange Avenue with all the pines decked out in Christmas lights never gets old. In fact, the older I get the less I take it for granted. This is the time of year to refl ect. Have friends and family over for cocktails and share some laughs. This is also the time when some of us have children coming home from college — for this, I am indeed thankful. Grab your Ugg boots, dig out that sweater you seldom need, and walk uptown to enjoy the lights. Maybe pop into your favorite spot for some holiday cheer. There will be ice-skating at the Hotel Del and Santa will once again ride up the avenue to light the tree. A toast is in order... What should we put in our glasses? Time to pull out some seasonal favorites: really good, boozy eggnog, bourbon-spiked apple cider, or a splash of champagne.
Holiday drinks have a rich history; they bring both warmth and cheer. Cinnamon, nutmeg and mulling spice abound. For me, a pumpkin spice latte is not going to do the trick — this guy needs an adult beverage.
When it comes to holiday drinks at home, three things come to mind: eggnog, mulled cider and champagne. When evenings cool o and you fi nd yourself outdoors cider is always a good choice and who doesn’t like adding a little kick to theirs? Eggnog is something most of us can only do in moderation, but it is a must for Christmas eve in our house. Champagne? Yes, please. Bubbles make everything festive, especially this time of year. I will pull out my grandfather’s recipe for eggnog and share with you my version of a bourbon-spiked apple cider. Good champagne doesn’t need any help but if you want to take it up a notch there is a simple way to do that. Want to get out of the house? I asked around and there are several fun holiday-themed cocktails that can be found right here in town. If you are out shopping o -island and you want some holiday cheer, you need to check out Polite Provisions during “Miracle on 30th,” a seasonal holiday cocktail pop-up that runs from the day after Thanksgiving through New Year’s Eve. Polite Provisions goes all out with the decorations; it really has to be seen to be believed. We have cider to mull, egg whites to beat, corks to pop and a host of local holiday cocktails to go over, so let's get started.
Mulled apple cider is a go-to drink for our family. The beauty of this drink is that if you have kids, you don’t have to spike it. On second thought, if you have kids, you will want to spike it. You can and should have it both ways. I have two large classic Stanley vacuum bottles just for this purpose. No Coronado Christmas tree lighting would be complete without this warm apple treat. Just don't mix up the containers or you will have a lot of explaining to do. Start with unfi ltered apple juice, not spiced cider. Cinnamon sticks, mulling spices and some fresh oranges. The citric acid helps cut through the sweetness of the apple cider and gives the drink some zing. When choosing a whiskey, I always opt for bourbon, but you do you. Irish whiskey has crossed my lips a few times and lately, I am reaching more and more for a rye whiskey, as it isn’t as sweet as bourbon. If I can fi nd a bottle of Wild Turkey 101 Rye, I will be gifting myself a little early this year. Why this bottle? Because the 101 proof will add the kick I am looking for and the rye won’t add too much sweetness to the mix.
Eggnog is a family tradition, and my grandfather made a particularly boozy version. There is a special copper bowl my grandfather bought in Paris when he was the Naval attache to the U.S. Ambassador of France. This thing weighs a ton. I polish it every year and dutifully whip the egg whites to assemble this grog. I remember having just a small taste when I was a child and feeling giddy — this is the good stu .
Champagne: Napoleon Bonaparte once said, “In victory, you deserve champagne. In defeat, you need it.” Win or lose, you deserve some bubbles. If I am celebrating, I don’t mind spending a little more, but there is no reason to go crazy as you may want to pop a few corks. My favorite champagne cocktail is a Kir Royale; even the name is exotic. Traditionally a Kir Royale is champagne and creme de cassis which is a blackcurrant liqueur. I like to use Chambord which, in addition to blackcurrants, has raspberries and blackberries. Both will turn your cocktail slightly pink and add a little sweetness, but I fi nd Chambord a little less sweet which allows the champagne to take center stage. A great garnish for this is a raspberry. It adds a little pizzazz.
Heading uptown? The Tavern, The Henry and Stake all have some fun seasonal cocktails to wet your whistle. Shopping uptown for the holidays, attending the Christmas tree lighting or heading over to the Hotel Del to view their tree or ice skate are all good reasons to venture out. I am sharing with you a list of what drinks you can expect to fi nd uptown. We are blessed to live in a walkable community, so if you’re enjoying drinks out, please leave the car at home.
O the Island Holiday
fun: If you fi nd yourself o -island, try to squeeze in a trip to Polite Provisions which hosts a yearly holiday-themed cocktail pop-up called Miracle on 30th. The decor is sure to get you in the holiday spirit and the cocktails are a must — they really go all out. One showstopper is the Snowball Old Fashioned, made with butterscotch rye, spiced Demerara, Woodford bitters and orange zest. There are so many others that it will make ordering di cult as they all look amazing.
Coronado is a magical town and never more so than during the holidays. Take some time away from the hustle and bustle to really take it all in. I hope you enjoy some of the fun cocktails I have shared. Cheers to you and yours.
• Clyde Van Arsdall is a thirdgeneration Coronado local, chef and storyteller. For more stories and follow-ups to his articles go to oliveavenuesupperclub.com
Holiday Cocktails on the Island
Stake
• 43 Geese A Laying –
Grey Goose vodka, Licor 43, lemon juice, rosemary Infused cranberry syrup, and champagne. Garnished with brandy-soaked Matisse cherries and a rosemary sprig dusted in powdered sugar. It looks just like a Christmas tree.
Stake Chophouse & Bar 1309 Orange Avenue (619) 522-0077 stakechophousesd.com
The Tavern
• Peppermint Patty Martini – House-made vanilla bean-infused vodka, House-made vanilla bean-infused vodka, Rumple Mintz, Gi ard Creme de Cacao, half and half and fresh mint. Rumple Mintz, Gi ard Creme de Cacao, half and half and fresh mint. Garnished with a candy cane. Garnished with a candy cane. • Pumpkin Hot Buttered Rum – Malahat spiced rum,• Pumpkin Hot Buttered Rum – Malahat spiced rum, pumpkin butter, heavy cream, powdered sugar, pumpkin butter, heavy cream, powdered sugar, fresh cinnamon and hot water. fresh cinnamon and hot water. • The Cranmerry – Bu alo Trace bourbon,• The Cranmerry – Bu alo Trace bourbon, Grand Marnier, holiday pie bitters, cranberry simple Grand Marnier, holiday pie bitters, cranberry simple syrup and tangerine juice. Garnished with tangerine syrup and tangerine juice. Garnished with tangerine and fresh rosemary. and fresh rosemary. • Tiki Kalikimaka – Zaya rum aged 16 years,• Tiki Kalikimaka – Zaya rum aged 16 years, fresh lemon and orange juices, honey falernum, fresh lemon and orange juices, honey falernum, ginger juice, soy sauce and Angostura bitters. ginger juice, soy sauce and Angostura bitters. Garnished with fresh mint and sesame seeds. Garnished with fresh mint and sesame seeds.
The Cranmerry
Peppermint Patty Martini Tiki Kalikimaka Pumpkin Hot Buttered Rum
The Henry
• Whiskey and Doughnuts – a Manhattan ri starring Bulleit bourbon infused with Madagascar vanilla, whole cinnamon and fuji apple – complemented by warm homemade cinnamon sugar doughnut holes. • Junior and Mrs. Mint – a peppermint white chocolate martini with vanilla-infused Belvedere vodka and crushed candy cane rim.
• Nog on the Rooftop – house-infused Christmas Whiskey made with Jameson Irish whiskey, cinnamon and vanilla, along with rich eggnog and freshly grated nutmeg.
• Spiced Pear Cosmopolitan –
a reduction of cranberry matched with a spiced pear liqueur, Western Son Vodka and fresh lime juice makes for a perfectly cold-weather version of this cocktail classic.
Whiskey and Doughnuts
Nog on the Rooftop Spiced Pear Cosmopolitan
Holiday cocktail recipes
Kir Royale
Invented by Lejay connoisseur Canon Felix Kir (The mayor of Dijon, France)
Ingredients: • ½ ounce (1 Tablespoon) Chambord • 5 ounces chilled brut (dry) champagne • 1 fresh raspberry, optional
Instructions: 1. Start with pouring the Chambord into the fl ute. Tilt the glass and slowly pour in the champagne. 2. Garnish with a raspberry
Van’s Eggnog
RDM Clyde James “Van” Arsdall Jr circa 1955 Makes about 15 cups.
Ingredients: • ½ dozen eggs separated into yolks and whites.
If you are concerned about raw eggs you can use pasteurized egg whites. I have never been concerned due to the amount of alcohol in this. • ¾ cup sugar • 1 pint heavy cream • 1 pint milk • 1 pint whiskey (bourbon) • 1 oz. rum
Instructions: • Put yolks and half the sugar into a punch bowl, mix. • Add some of the whiskey and let sit. • Beat the whites into fl uff y peaks. I use our copper bowl and a whisk but it is a chore. This is a good job for a stand-up mixer. • Beat the cream lightly until thickened a bit. • Fold together the whites and yolks. • Add the milk and the thickened cream and the rest of the booze and mix together. • Serve in teacups or, if you have a punch bowl and cups, use those. • Top with freshly grated nutmeg.
Mulled Julian Apple Cider
Clyde Van Arsdall
Ingredients: • 1 1/2 quarts of unfi ltered sweet cider (I love Julian apple cider) • 12 allspice berries • 12 whole cloves • 1 orange cut into slices • 2 sticks of cinnamon (break these up) • ½ cup bourbon or rye (use your favorite whiskey) If you do not want a bunch of leftover cloves and allspice you can substitute these for a packet or two of pre-made mulling spice.
Instructions: • Place all ingredients except the whiskey into a pot and bring to a simmer, remove from heat, cover and let steep for 10 minutes. • Remove spices and oranges. • Heat to the desired temp, add whisky and serve. • If serving at home, garnish with orange and apple slices. If enjoying this cider outdoors on the go, skip this step. It’s all about a warm buzz. • If transporting in a Thermos or vacuum bottle, bring to a simmer, add whiskey and then fi ll the containers. This ensures that the cider is warm when you need it to be. Don’t warm whiskey and cider or the booze will start to evaporate. I learned from the O spring, “You gotta keep ’em separated.”
Don't miss my tips on transporting cocktails in a Thermos, above.
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