FORKS & CORKS: Samantha Bey takes us back to Chez Loma

Le Bon Retour

Chez Loma is back and still a classic

Story & Photos by Samantha Bey

Ask any longtime local about Coronado’s most iconic restaurants, and chances are Chez Loma tops their list. The charming Victorian building, built in 1889, is among Coronado’s oldest structures. Sitting proudly on Loma Avenue just south of Star Park Circle, its three stories peek out above treetops, clad in twinkling lights and beckon patrons to come enjoy a meal within its quaint, historic walls.

The building, known also as the Carey-Hizar house, was originally the private residence of Mary Carey and was actually located on D Avenue. It was moved in 1904 when it became the home of John Hizar, the former Coronado City Clerk. It fi rst became a restaurant in 1966, called the Chowder House and owned and operated by Jane and Pike Meade until 1974, when it became Chez Loma. It has since been a celebrated mecca of French Cuisine and now, after a four-month closure for kitchen renovations, the restaurant has reopened and is ready to say, “Bon Appétit” once again.

Chez Loma has been a favorite date spot for me and Josh for years, so we were thrilled to get to try it out now that it’s open again. The delightful hostess, Reagan, showed us to our favorite table. Local tip: ask for table 10 when you make your reservation — it’s tucked in the little window alcove of the back room. White tablecloths, glimmering votives, fresh red roses and the quiet tinkling of silverware make it romantic while the many preserved historic elements of the building make it feel quaint. We chatted a bit with Reagan, a junior at Coronado High School, about what a special place it is and she said her favorite part about working there is how storied it is. “We get so many customers here on fi rst dates, or celebrating anniversaries, it’s just such a welcoming, homey environment to really connect with each other,” she said. Case in point, she let us know that sitting nearby was an elderly couple who’d had their fi rst date there decades ago. The atmosphere does indeed lend itself well to special occasions.

And since we were celebrating a night o from the bedtime routine, we started o with a round of cocktails — a martini for me and a Manhattan for Josh. We are picky about how we like our cocktails poured but they came out absolutely perfect. I learned later that evening

Chez Loma, located at 1132 Loma Avenue, is now open every day of the week for fi ne dining.

The escargot come swimming in butter and garlic and topped with crisp, fresh shallots for a nice balance of texture and flavor. Rich beef broth and melty Gruyere cheese never disappoint when it comes to French onion soup. The tender fillet mignon is topped with a creamy peppercorn sauce with a nice, mellow heat to it that complements the fat of the meat.

Chef Miguel Cruz hand mixes this chocolate cake in house every day; his attention to detail is evident in this decadent treat.

Rashid mixed our cocktails - a Manhattan and a martini - to balanced, boozy, and icy perfection.

that they were the handiwork of the bartender, Rashid, who really knows his stu . Pop into the warm and ever-charming bar and put him to the test — he’ll pass with flying colors.

We ordered two French classics — the escargot and the French onion soup — both of which were terrific. The escargot came just as they should — swimming in butter and garlic — but these were accented with fresh, super crisp shallots creating an enjoyable texture combination. The French onion soup was a satisfying classic: a beef broth thick with flavor and carmelized onions under a crisp crouton and a blanket of melty gruyere. We also ordered the crab cakes, which were a perfect appetizer size with fresh chunks of crab. Topped with a crisp apple chutney and served aside fresh greens, this was a nice, lighter complement to the other two dishes.

Our sweet and friendly waiter, Hunter, suggested we try another French classic, the Boeuf Bourguignon for an entree since it’s one of the house specialties. We heeded his advice, and were quite pleased we did. The savory dish is packed with satisfying flavor: slow braised beef, red wine, baby carrots and roasted mushrooms served over whipped, buttery potatoes. This order will satiate the heartiest of appetites, especially on cold winter nights. And since Josh and I do have the heartiest of appetites, we also ordered the Filet Mignon, which comes with a peppercorn crust, roasted gold potatoes, haricot verts and a mushroom brandy sauce. It was a lovely cut of meat, and the umami and peppery heat of the sauce paired

Our waiter, Hunter, and bartender, Rashid made for a warm and welcoming evening.

very well with the bottle of E. Guigal Cotes Du Rhone we ordered with it. After hearing how pleased we were with our food and drinks, Hunter explained, “Chez Loma is driven by our kitchen and bartenders. They are men of their craft.”

We finished with, quite frankly, one of the best pieces of flourless chocolate cake I’ve ever tried. Turns out it’s made fresh in house every day by Chez Loma’s head chef, Miguel Cruz, who prides himself on doing the mixing entirely by hand. The hand mixing must be some form of sorcery because this cake is thick, decadent and moist without being heavy and has a sugary crispness to its edges that I’ve not tasted elsewhere. The vanilla bean whipped cream served on the side doesn't hurt, either.

Happily nestled at our little alcove table, we had a nice chat with Fernando Morales, who co-manages the restaurant with owner Andres Girault’s son, Diego Girault. He intimated that they’ve hired an internationally acclaimed French chef who some may recognize from various TV shows to help revamp their menu a bit in the coming months — as of print, they’ve not yet announced the chef’s identity. Also in the works are happy hour

The French classic boeuf bourguignon is the house specialty; the hearty and fl avorful beef and vegetable stew is served atop creamy mashed potatoes.

specials in the bar with dates and times soon to be announced. Morales explained that as they get up and running again after both Covid-19 and being closed through the kitchen renovation, their goal is to get the word out that they are open and ready to deliver on their long-upheld reputation for excellent food and ambience. “What we want most,” said Morales, “is for Chez Loma to be a welcoming environment where customers feel special and celebrated.”

Chez Loma is open: Monday - Thursday 5 pm to 8 pm Friday - Saturday 5 pm to 9 pm Sunday 5 pm to 8 pm (619) 435-0661 1132 Loma Avenue Website: chezloma.net

• Samantha Bey is a freelance writer who lives in Coronado with her husband and four children.