The Alchemy of
Pesto Alla Genovese STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY
D
id you ever think that a simple mixture of garlic, pine nuts, basil, olive oil, hard cheese, and a pinch of salt, ground together in a mortar and pestle, can have you on your knees thanking Mother Nature for the blessing of her bounty? Behind her though, are the Italians (specifically from the Genoa region), that are the geniuses that put these ingredients together to create the mesmerizing concoction - pesto alla genovese. The root word of pesto is “pestare” meaning to pound or crush. The traditional way to make pesto is revered, and for good reason. The mortar holds the ingredients and creates a surface for the grinding motion of the pestle. The weight of the pestle plus the pounding coax the essence from the ingredients.
18 Culinaire | March 2022
Pine nuts bind together with the garlic with the help of a pinch of salt. Fresh basil leaves are added along with a drizzle of olive oil and vigorously worked into a paste. Then the hard cheese is stirred in at the end, rounding out the flavours. Pine nuts create a velvety base. Garlic shouldn’t be too spicy as it will overpower the other ingredients. The freshest basil leaves should be used, with no stems. The olive oil should be mild enough to allow the basil to remain the front-runner but distinct enough to add flavour. You can’t go wrong with Parmesan or Pecorino to inject a luscious mouth feel. Everything pounded together tastes fresh and vibrant - alive even. The colour - bright green. The texture - smooth with small, delicate pieces of ingredients dotted throughout the sauce. Where does tradition part ways with
ease and modernism? Lemons weren’t traditionally part of the pesto recipe. Does it need it? Not really. However, they do add another bright, delicious layer to the flavour profile. What other updates to the traditional pesto alla genovese exist? Although pine nuts are the classic nut, walnuts can stand in with ease. Macadamia, cashew, and almonds will also make a great substitution. If you are not a fan of nuts, then try pumpkin seeds. Basil can be changed out completely or go half and half with almost any green leaf or herb you can find. No matter what green, nut or seed you use, pesto can withstand the pounding. You don’t even need cheese if dairy is off the menu. While it doesn’t take long to make pesto with a mortar and pestle, it is extremely quick to whip up in a food
