Culinaire #11.1 (May 2022)

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S M AY 2 02 2

years

Recipe Retrospective | Alberta Beer & BC Wine | Beef Jerky | Ginger Beer

YOUR BC WINE COMPANION

CULINARY ADVENTURES WITH THE AWARD-WINNING WINES OF BC EXPLORER APP. It begins with the Taste Test, where the App matches you (and your palate) with BC wines you’ll love. Then take it along with you for a night out, tell the App about your meal (meats, cheeses, entrée choices) and find the perfect BC wine pairing. Your own pocket sommelier, at your fingertips.

Dining out has never been easier, and it’s FREE to download.

MAGELLAN AWARDS GOLD MEDAL

contents

Volume 11 / No. 1 / May 2022

departments 8

Off The Menu

10

Salutes and Shout Outs

37

12

22

Hy’s Cheese Toast

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

Making the Case: For BC Wines

Root, root, root for the home team

40

Etcetera...

42

Open That Bottle

What’s new?

With Greg Zeschuk of Blind Enthusiasm Brewing Company

years ON THE COVER Ten years in publishing feels such a major achievement that we had to shout it loudly, and we’re proud to display a front cover that leaves you no doubt what we’re shouting about. Thanks very much to Kendra Roberts for her dynamic cover design that sums it up, and simply says it all!

20

30

6

With Thanks

26

Go for the Burn

12

From the Archives

28

A bottle of Suds…

20

A page for your words

by Linda Garson Some of your favourite recipes from the last ten years of Chefs’ Tips

by Culinaire

An Award-Winning Beer Adventure

For The Establishment Brewing Company

by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

22 24

30

Mooooove Over Beef

- it’s bison’s turn to roam

by Natalie Findlay

Alberta-made Jerky

…a better way to hit the road

by Kelly-Anne Riess

A ginger beer primer

by Lucy Haines

Local IS better

by Tom Firth

Step by Step: A Slice of Sunshine

Key lime cheesecake with pretzel crust

by Renée Kohlman

32 34

May Spirits

For whatever the weather!

by Linda Garson and Tom Firth

Ten (Somewhat) Unrecognized Beer Styles Informal styles that aren’t "officially" recognized

by David Nuttall

May 2022 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

With thanks:

And here we are!

J UST LIKE THAT, IN THE BLINK of an eye - Culinaire is 10 years old.

It’s been quite the journey for me from not being an editor, never mind a publisher, in late 2011, to bringing out our first issue in May 2012, expanding to include Edmonton and the mountains in 2016, and Central Alberta just last year.

But we’re still here and gearing up for the next ten years.

We’ve seen the changes and heard your responses, from positive comments to identifying areas we can improve (thank you!). And we know it’s all about the stories more than ever before, which I value enormously. There’s many a lively discussion at our editorial meetings to find the balance between telling you of all the good things to enjoy and the good people involved in them. We know you want a connection, an emotional attachment to the wines, beers, and spirits we drink, and to our food and the people who grow it and care for it.

You want to learn about the people who made it, and you want to know what to do with it.

We joined Vine & Dine and Culinaire together in January 2019, and I’m encouraged at the enduring power of print; I love that I get calls and emails every week from people to book pairing dinners, and often to say how much they love the magazine too. People call for back issues when their sinks leak over the recipe they were making, and thank you to the gentleman who brought flowers when I gave him my copy.

Here are some things you may not realise about Culinaire. We run out of magazines each issue and can’t ever print

4 Culinaire | May 2022

enough; we can only print the quantity our revenues allow. With paper prices having gone up 54% since the New Year, it’s increasingly difficult to be able to print more, let alone allocate them where they’ll reach everyone looking for a copy.

We’re a tiny team; a tiny team with extensive experience and a vast knowledge of our bread and butter – content about food and beverage - and an incredible passion for helping Culinaire get its message out there. How to eat and drink well, whether out and about in Alberta or at home.

And that brings me to the other half of our tiny team, Tom Firth, my devil’s advocate, who tests the strength of my arguments and with both feet on the ground, stops me flying off with harebrained ideas. The best palate in the province, and the only person in the world who can tell someone to take a hike in such a way that they take it as a compliment and thank him for it. We wouldn’t be half the magazine we are without Tom, and I truly thank him for it.

We’re here to inform, entertain and educate. We’ve featured and supported thousands of chefs and restaurants, breweries and distilleries, growers and producers, over the last ten years, and I can’t thank enough those you’ll see in this issue whose support allows us to continue printing Culinaire - please join me in showing them your thanks too.

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

It wouldn’t be possible to celebrate 10 years of Culinaire without the efforts of so many people who have been involved in its success.

While we don’t have room to mention all our contributors, team members, and helping hands, we do want to share our thanks to a few special people whose hard work helped us get here: To Keiron Gallagher, our first commercial director, for helping us turn Culinaire from a passion project into a self-sustaining business – our sincerest gratitude. We are so very happy to have Denice Hansen and James Jarvis carrying on the good work!

Dan Clapson was our contributing food editor for our first few years, and his ear on the ground for food trends and dishes helped us find our way in telling the stories of our province’s food.

We’ve had a lot of people over the years in our digital media role, and their enthusiasm for good food, drink, and getting the message out has always been infectious.

Cory Knibutat, Laura Lushington, Lynda Sea, Eva Colmenero, Anna Brooks, Mallory Frayn, Dan Bontje, and Keane Straub - we wouldn’t be here without you all.

Thank you to our designers who match our vision and make us look good. Emily Vance - our first designer, and Kendra Roberts – we love your style! To Jason Dziver, Ingrid Kuenzel, and Dong Kim, for your lip-smacking food photography, covers, and portraits, big hugs.

Jeff Collins, we are so happy to have you as our eyes and ears at all our locations where Culinaire can be picked up, and we look forward to a dram or two again soon.

Finally, to some of our long-time contributors, some of whom have been in almost every single issue and are still writing for us: Elizabeth Chorney-Booth, David Nuttall, Natalie Findlay, and Renée Kohlman – we thank you!

The finest get better with age…

Happy Birthday, Culinaire Magazine!

Grazie for your continued support.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

italiancentre.ca

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK

We’re proud to be celebrating our 10th anniversary this year but we know we can’t be the only ones, so we did a little sleuthing to congratulate other Alberta food and beverage businesses.

Join us in cheering on:

Our Readers Speak:

A Wish Cake & Café Carino Japanese Italian Kitchen Cilantro & Chive Cucina Enotri Wine Marketing Heaven Restaurant Bar Kitchen By Brad Lambtastic Farms Minhas Micro Brewery Model Milk National Beer Hall, 17th Avenue Pig & Duke Pubs Sho Sushi Tool Shed Brewing Tres Carnales Taquería Village Brewery And to the Peace Bridge, also celebrating 10 years this year!

We were blown away to see this Instagram post from Chris Lem when, after reading March Culinaire, his 10-year-old son was inspired to bake his own focaccia. Someone has a very bright future ahead of him, congratulations Joshua!

I

’M THE LUCKIEST PERSON as I have an email folder called ‘compliments’ that has 309 emails in it, and it really boosts my spirits to read them. Thanks to everyone that has written, you have no idea how much your kindness is appreciated, Linda.

“Thank you for April’s copy. Found a great recipe for gyro’s and am going to get my husband the air fryer cookbook recommended. Always finds gems in the magazine!

Thanks again,” SS

“I really do think your magazine is great and very informative. I identified at least 6 businesses I want to check out for myself and also found two glutenfree places my son and his girlfriend are sure to visit. I will also investigate the cooking classes mentioned in this edition because they sounded like something fun to do while we wait for spring to arrive.

Thanks so much for all the time and effort you put into this excellent publication.

Best regards,” SB 6 Culinaire | May 2022

BY LINDA GARSON

“Super proud of my son. He was reading @culinairemag and decided to make hand kneaded focaccia over spring break. It was absolutely delicious. Thanks Joshua! I'm proud of you. I look forward to eating whatever you make next. And thanks to @grandeamoreyyc for sharing your recipe.”

“Good Lord Linda, congratulations on achieving such a fantastic milestone! I cannot believe that issue #1 was really that long ago. We are so honored to have been a part of that – and all of the other publications, partnerships and exchanges that have grown out of that first feature. This special anniversary really is a celebration for all of us in the industry – so YAY US – and thank you for your important contribution to the local landscape. We remain large fans of both Culinaire and Linda Garson.

With complete admiration and friendship,” Spolumbo’s Fine Foods & Deli

“Dear Ms. Garson, I’m so glad your magazine has weathered the last 2 years of the pandemic. It’s been a struggle for everyone.

I’ve been meaning to write for some time. While I’m a recently retired healthcare worker, I started my working life as an assistant editor in Toronto many, many years ago.

So I know quality when I see it. Love everything about your magazine from the feel and quality of the paper stock to the wonderful content. I read every issue cover to cover. In fact, I pick up 2 copies - one for myself and one for the sister of a good friend who thoroughly enjoys cooking, baking and entertaining.

Are we nearly there yet? Not quite but keep the faith. Many things are beyond our control. You are doing so many things right. Thank you for not gutting the quality and consistently putting out a quality product.

Wishing you many more years of success,” BH

“Hello Linda, We just picked up the April issue of Culinaire magazine and I was very impressed with your editorial. You expressed the feelings that so many of us are experiencing now. So, we want to thank you for bringing some cheerful, encouraging articles about our city, our brave restaurant owners and staff, and recipes to give us a bit of enjoyment. Both my husband and I love to work together in the kitchen - an outlet with pleasure and appreciation in the mix.

Please keep up the good work and thank your staff for their devotion to the cause. We look forward to every edition - you are a ray of light shining in the darkness and we need you!

Best wishes to you all,” VS

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales, Southern Alberta Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Sales, Northern Alberta James Jarvis 780-231-7511 james@culinairemagazine.ca

Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Lucy Haines Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman David Nuttall Kelly-Anne Riess

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors Kelly-Anne Riess

Kelly-Anne is a journalist living in Cold Lake, where she enjoys gardening, reading on the beach, bonfires with friends, and walks in the forest.

Her work has appeared in the Globe and Mail, Chatelaine, Canadian Geographic, and on CBC. She’s from Regina and a Prairie girl at heart. Last year, she started theflatlander.ca, where she writes about important issues impacting the Canadian Prairies. Follow her @kellyriess.

Lucy Haines

A long-time freelance writer, Lucy specializes in travel, food, arts, and entertainment. In a 30-year-plus career writing newspaper and magazine features, Lucy has interviewed celebrities, reviewed restaurants and food festivals, and enjoyed it all immensely! When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.

Natalie Findlay

After a brief period with an Easy Bake Oven, Natalie’s mom allowed her to use the big girl’s oven and set her on the course for a life filled with delicious outcomes. Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, Natalie has worked in restaurants, hotels, bakeries, and her own business. Currently, Natalie is a freelance writer, recipe developer, and photographer, and is loving every minute of it.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

FELIZ ANIVERSÁRIO! Happy 10th BIRTHDAY CULINAIRE! GRATOS PELA PARCERIa WE ARE HAPPY TO BE PART OF YOUR JOURNEY!

#EATATMINAS

(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW minassteakhouse.coM

Churrascaria & Restaurante May 2022 | Culinaire 7

O F F TH E M E N U

Hy's Cheese Toast

BY LINDA GARSON

W

E LOVE HEARING FROM YOU to request your favourite recipes from your favourite restaurants, and we just had to ask when we received this email: “I'm not sure what Hy's does to make their cheese toast so dreamy delicious but I can't not order it whenever I go there, and am wondering if they might share their recipe? Thank you.”

Jocelyn M. We agree, Hy’s Cheese Toast is memorable and very moreish, so many thanks to Hy’s for sharing their recipe!

Photos Courtesy Hy's Steakhouse

Hy’s Cheese Toast Makes 4 servings

4 slices white bread ¾ cup soft butter ¼ cup Grana Padano cheese ¼ cup Swiss cheese 1 cup yellow Cheddar cheese ¼ teaspoon fine ground white pepper 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce

8 Culinaire | May 2022

You will need a mixer with paddle and mixing bowl and a sheet pan/cookie sheet.

Set your broiler to high. Grate all the cheeses.

1. Whip butter in mixer.

2. Add Grana Padano, Swiss, and Cheddar cheeses, white pepper and Worcestershire sauce into butter mix.

3. Mix until all well blended and you reach a spreadable texture.

4. With broiler on high, lightly toast one

side of bread.

5. Remove bread and allow to cool to room temperature.

6. Evenly spread the cheese mix on the four slices of bread on untoasted side.

7. Place under broiler until golden brown.

8. Remove, slice, and eat immediately.

If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S Courtesy Gareth Paget @loosevisuals

In our very first issue we wrote "Caesar’s Steak House is 40 years old this year congratulations to a Calgary institution!”

And now Caesar’s are celebrating their golden anniversary, huge congrats!

If you’ve eaten in Banff recently, then you’ll be familiar with Banff Hospitality Collective restaurants: The Bison, Maple Leaf, Hello Sunshine, and many more; Chef Justin Leboe’s talents shine here too.

New Lupo (Italian for ‘wolf’) on Wolf Street, is a terrific addition to the already excellent roster. An Italian marketplace, Lupo has private rooms, canopy bar, fireplace, and an open kitchen to watch the team create beautifully presented fresh pasta dishes, all available in half or full plates. There’s pizza, meat, and fish mains too, along with a good selection of beer, wines, and cocktails. From 5 pm, closed Tuesdays.

Calgary’s refurbished Booker’s BBQ, at 3 Street SE, has emerged as the elegant and bright, Ellie’s Kitchen & Bar, with authentic Ghanaian and Caribbean food, and live music too. Try West Africa’s popular dishes: beef, seafood or veggie Jollof rice, and Suya skewers; Jamaica faves of oxtail and jerk chicken, or one of many gluten-free and vegan dishes.

Tropical cocktails, as well as wine and local beers. Ellie’s is spacious and airy, with Ghanaian paintings, and a private dining room upstairs for 25 people.

Reservations available 4 pm-late, closed Mondays.

Calgary Chef Yash Sharma learnt his craft in high-end hotels in India, then after a spell as Carnival Cruise Lines’ Head Chef, and in local restaurants, two years ago he opened YYC Pasta Bar on 17 Avenue SW, and it’s so successful 10 Culinaire | May 2022

that he’s opened another location in the ex-Cotto spot in Kensington. Choose your pasta, sauce, proteins, and veggies, or go for a chef ’s specialty such as lobster ravioli (oh yum!), risotto, and veal tortellini. Portions are generous and it’s some of the best value in the city. Happy hour 11-4 pm includes lunch, chef offers catering too. Closed Tuesdays.

We’ve been waiting since last summer for El Corazon (‘The Heart’) to open in Edmonton, and we’re happy to report the lights are now on at 14101 West Block Drive, in Glenora. With a large menu of Latininspired dishes and cocktails, you’ll be spoiled for choice – paella or pollo, tacos or tequeños, margarita or mojito!

Seven days, 11 am-2 pm.

Riverfront Avenue SW in Calgary’s Eau Claire is home to Gravity Café’s third location, where you’ll find a more developed menu, with flatbreads, waffles, charcuterie, wine and beer, as well as Phil & Seb coffee, Tea Trader teas, and specialty cocktails. Everything is made from scratch, and they have the comfiest stools ever! Treat yourself to a Mimosa when the lovely morning light highlights supervisor, Larissa Pendlebury’s murals.

There’s a private room for 25 people, and 1-5 pm happy hour. Perfect for a pre/post visit to the cinema, seven days, early-10 pm.

An homage to a Canadian WWII hero, there’s a terrific story behind Tailgunner Brewing, who’ve opened their taproom at 1602 10th Avenue SW, in Calgary’s Sunalta. Founders, Mike Macleod and Cael Tucker are putting out some terrific quality beer in cans and on tap, and tasty snacks to enjoy with them. It’s a big space for 150 people downstairs and a lovely room for 40 upstairs, with a 50-seat patio ready soon! Seven days, tailgunnerbrewing.ca for hours.

Edmonton’s Cameron Heights is home to Chef Paul Shufelt’s new Hayloft Steak and Fish, sharing the space with Woodshed Burgers’ third location.

Now, in one spot you can drop by for a burger after the game or celebrate your special occasion with Nonay beef (Classic or Unconventional Steak Cuts) from Lakeside Dairy, and Effing Seafoods fish. It’s a wonderful menu - and clever, allowing Chef Shufelt to stay true to his nose-to-tail values, with options to fit your appetite and budget. Seven days from 4:30 pm and brunch at weekends.

As well as popular Smoke N BBQ food truck, Calgary restaurateur, Stephen Szostak, has opened an express retail location at 124 17 Avenue SE. Zip in for your fix of 17-hour apple, oak, hickory, and maple-smoked brisket, pulled pork, chicken, and smoked bratwurst sandwiches, with signature whiskey, Carolina, or apple BBQ sauce, and Cajun spice. Take it out along with frozen cooked meats to eat at home, or have them cater your Stampede and tailgate parties. Pick up your frequent loyalty card, and watch for Game Day specials.

Calgary’s Gorilla Whale, in Inglewood, has morphed into Gwailo, Jason Wankel and Chef Chris Wong’s fun and funky, western-style Cantonese restaurant based on Chef Wong’s Hong Kong roots and culinary studies. Much-loved Halloumi

8

NW. Choose from 14 New York-style (thinner crust) and nine Detroit-style, (heftier with a cheese crust) pizzas, add appies and salads or plump for a handheld.

Wash it all down with a local beer, curated wine or cocktail - and don’t miss the daily specials! Seven days, lunch and dinner.

Shao Kao sticks, Chicken Paitan Ramen, Kimchi, Shrimp Dumplings, and Chashu Roll, are still on the menu, along with must-try ‘Naked’ Crab Rangoon, SakeSteamed Clams, Steak Fried Rice, and Leche Flan with Ovaltine ice cream.

Killer cocktails are on offer, and we love the eclectic custom artworks too. Lunch and dinner, weekend brunch from 10 am, closed Mondays.

Following the success of their Vancouver launch last year, Edmonton now has its own modern and eclectic, Community Taps & Pizza, at 8232 Gateway Boulevard

Formerly Jack Asters, at 9823 Macleod Trail, Calgary’s Tomahawk Kitchen + Bar is a new steakhouse from the folks at Gully Street, in Southcentre Mall. Choose a beautifully cooked steak; a beef, bison, veal, lamb, or pork tomahawk, all from local producers (as are the beers and spirits); or one of many seafood options. The star is $120 ‘Gold Digger’ local wagyu burger with 13 gourmet toppings, but for a smaller budget, we really enjoyed fried cauliflower, Caesar salad with spicy jerky, prawns garganelli, and more. Two 12-seat private rooms and a 70-seat patio for the sunny days ahead! 11-11, seven days.

Simtopia’s CommonGrind coffee bar is now pouring Devil’s Head coffee and

local brews at their 50 Avenue SE, Calgary location, and their Chicken Heaven restaurant is serving lip-smacking, Koreanstyle, fried chicken everything to rave reviews!

Filipino food is proving very popular in Edmonton - Jollibee has opened its fourth location at 881 Tamarack Way. Seven days, 9 am-11 pm, and drive thru too.

8 What do you look for in a café besides good coffee and a tasty snack? A welcoming ambience and people who share your values? You’ll find these and more at Janice Buckingham’s new Daydream Cafe, at 412 Memorial Drive, Calgary. Classically trained chef and creator of Flora Fromage plant-based cheeses, Buckingham has turned her ‘fromagerie’ into a delightful spot to hang out, have breakfast or lunch, and shop your values on the all-vegan wall.

Healthy and nourishing are a given here, and everything tastes really delicious too!

Seven days, 9 am-6 pm.

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Recipe retrospective

W

ith hundreds and hundreds of recipes featured in Culinaire over the last ten years. How to best pick some to revisit here? It was tough, but ultimately these recipes are a combination of dishes we love - and love to share, recipes we’re often asked for, and of course, a few from fan-favourite chefs!

Bacon and Corn Chowder

Mushroom Deviled Eggs

Serves 4-6 300 g bacon, diced fine 1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped fine 1 large carrot, peeled and cut into small cubes 2 celery stalks, cut into small cubes 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 50 g flour 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock 1 cup corn kernels ½ tsp nutmeg, ground 1 Tbs sea salt 1 tsp white pepper, ground 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1 red pepper, seeded and finely diced 1 green pepper, seeded and finely diced 1¼ cups (300 mL) cream 10% 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce (optional)

Briggs Kitchen + Bar Calgary We’ve lost count of the amount of these devilled eggs we ate in the first couple of years after Briggs Kitchen + Bar opened!

Serves 8, 3 pieces each 12 eggs, hard-boiled 275 g white mushrooms, sliced 2 Tbs chopped shallots 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 2 Tbs unsalted butter, cubed 2/3 cup (160 mL) mayonnaise 3 Tbs (45 mL) Dijon mustard To taste salt and pepper 24 pieces cooked bacon scraps, to garnish

Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

1. Place eggs in a large pot in one layer and cover with cold water, bring to a boil. Boil for 9 minutes and refresh under cold water until the eggs are completely chilled.

2. Wash and roughly slice the mushrooms. Peel and chop the shallots into 5 mm dice.

3. Heat oil in a large frying pan. Add mushrooms and shallots and season generously. Cook 1 minute on high heat, then add cubed butter. Cook for another minute and cool down on a tray.

4. Peel the eggs under cold water with a strainer (to keep the shells from plugging the sink) and cut them in half lengthwise.

Scoop out the egg yolks and set the whites aside in the cooler until needed.

5. Using a food processor, mix together the egg yolks and now cold mushrooms until smooth. Add the mayonnaise and mustard and mix again until smooth. Check and adjust seasoning. Transfer into a piping bag tied at the top and keep cold.

6. Before serving, lightly season each egg white and stuff them up to 1 cm over. Garnish each deviled egg with a piece of warm bacon.

- January/February 2014

12 Culinaire | May 2022

Chef Thierry Meret, Cuisine et Chateau, Calgary We love homemade soups - they’re so rewarding and comforting, and usually healthy too. And there are soups to fit with every season from cold, refreshing soups in summer to warming, chunky chowders like Chef Meret’s recipe.

1. In a pot large enough to hold all the ingredients, place the diced bacon and cook on medium heat for about 5 minutes or until the fat has rendered.

2. Add the onion, carrot and celery and 1 Tbs of olive oil, and cook on low heat until just soft.

3. Add the flour and mix well until the flour starts to bubble gently.

4. Remove from the heat and add chicken stock until well mixed, whisking constantly. Add the corn, nutmeg, salt, and both the white and cayenne pepper.

5. Keep whisking on high heat for about 3-5 minutes or until the soup starts to thicken.

6. Simmer for 20 minutes for the flavours to develop (stirring occasionally to prevent the soup from sticking).

7. In a separate frying pan, cook the red and green peppers in the remaining olive oil with salt and pepper until just soft. Add to the soup.

8. Add the cream and cook gently for another 3 minutes.

Adjust seasoning with the Worcestershire sauce.

- May 2012

Note: Use smoked bacon along with a tablespoon of maple syrup for deeper flavour.

Venetian Seafood Stew

Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

Chef Jenny Chan, Vero Bistro, Calgary

When it comes to her Venetian Seafood Stew, chock full of clams, mussels, crab legs, and a massive lobster claw, Chef Chan suggests that everything is as close to the same size as possible so that it cooks evenly.

Serves 6 3 stalks celery, chopped 2 large carrots, chopped 1 large onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 2 bay leaves ¾ jar passata 1 can diced tomatoes 1 cup (240 mL) white wine 1 Kg clams 450 g shrimp 675 g halibut 450 g crab legs 1 Kg mussels A pinch of chilli flakes To taste salt and pepper Chopped parsley, to garnish 6 slices of toasted baguette

1. Sauté the first five ingredients for 15 minutes, until the vegetables are translucent and softened.

2. Add the passata, diced tomatoes and wine, and simmer for another 20 minutes. Add clams and simmer 3-4 minutes.

3. Add remaining seafood, plus a pinch of chilli flakes, then simmer for 5-6 minutes more.

4. Serve immediately, garnished with chopped parsley and toasted baguette to soak up all the broth.

- July/August 2014

Whitehall’s Double Baked Cheese Soufflé Chef Neil McCue, Whitehall, Calgary

Chef McCue’s legendary Double Baked Cheese Souffle was one of the most instagrammed and tweeted dishes of the year!

Serves 3-4 450 mL egg white 200 mL milk 50 g unsalted butter 50 g all-purpose flour To taste salt and pepper 150 g cheese, grated (Whitehall uses Le 1608, alternatives could be Gruyere, Emmental, or a good quality cooking cheese) 4 egg yolks Extra soft butter and ground almonds for moulds 75-100 g cheese, grated for re-bake 150-200 mL cream, seasoned for re-bake Before you start Weigh out all your ingredients separately Have your soufflé moulds buttered and coated with ground almonds Preheat oven to 350º F 1. Place egg white whites in stand mixer bowl and start whisking slowly.

2. Bring milk to a simmer on the stove, then remove.

Photo by Dan Clapson

3. Melt butter in a pot and when melted, quickly whisk in flour and season to form a roux. Continue to whisk, then pour warm milk over and whisk until smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in cheese until fully incorporated.

4. Increase speed on egg whites to high, and meanwhile transfer cheese mixture to a bowl, whisk in egg yolks. Once egg whites have formed stiff peaks, fold gently through the cheese mixture with a slotted spoon.

5. Scoop equal amounts into each mould until level with top.

6. Place the soufflés into a deep baking dish, and half fill with water. Bake for 14 minutes, let soufflés rest for 5 minutes before removing them from moulds and leave to cool completely.

To Re-Bake In an ovenproof dish wider than the soufflé, place 25 g of grated cheese onto each soufflé, and cover with 50 mL of cream. Place on the top shelf of oven preheated to 375º F and bake for 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

- May 2016 May 2022 | Culinaire 13

Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

Pretzels with Maple Butter

Chef Alexei Boldireff, S’WICH Food Truck, Edmonton

To add an extra flare of Canadiana and kick them up a notch, Chef Boldiref brushes these pretzels with maple syrup, then flashes them in the oven for 90 seconds at 400º F, and finishes them with maple butter and sea salt.

Shaved Carrot Salad

Chef Jan Hansen, SAIT

Chef Hansen was responsible for overseeing the food service operations at Heritage Park when he gave us this recipe. Vegetable peelers can do more than just peel potatoes; a sharp peeler can turn virtually any vegetable into paper-thin shavings, perfect for blanching lightly, or simply eating raw.

Serves 6 as a side or 4 as an entrée 12 medium sized rainbow carrots, organic if possible 2 blood oranges 1 small red onion 5-8 fresh basil leaves (save some for garnish) To taste salt and pepper

Makes 18 307 g bread flour 1,070 g all-purpose flour 26 g instant yeast 23 g malt powder 26 g sea salt 3 1/3 cups (822 mL) water ½ cup + 1 Tbs (132 mL) canola oil 6 cups, (1½ L) water 90 g baking soda 450 g salted butter ½ cup (120 mL) maple syrup, plus extra for brushing tops Sea salt

For vinaigrette

1 shallot, peeled and quartered ¼ cup (60 mL) champagne vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL)) extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) honey ½ lemon, juice and zest ¾ tsp salt To taste freshly ground pepper

Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

1. Wash 12 medium sized rainbow carrots under cold water with a scrubbing brush, removing a fine layer of peel. Peel carrots lengthwise to create long ribbons using as much of the carrot as possible.

2. Place carrot ribbons in cold water to crisp. Drain and dry ribbons just before you need them.

3. Segment two blood oranges and julienne the onion. Julienne basil leaves, saving some for garnish.

4. Pulse all vinaigrette ingredients together in a blender, then toss carrot ribbons, julienne basil, red onions, champagne vinaigrette and season to taste.

5. Place salad into bowl and pour remaining dressing over. Garnish with a few basil leaves.

1. Mix the first 7 ingredients in a mixer using the dough hook attachment on medium speed for 16 minutes, until the dough is smooth, and pulls away from the side of the bowl. Set aside covered in plastic wrap for 8 minutes.

2. Turn the dough out onto a slightly oiled surface, and portion into appropriate sizes for 18 pieces. Roll out each piece of dough into 60 cm ropes. Rest for another 8 minutes, covered.

3. Fold into traditional pretzel shapes.

4. Preheat oven to 345º F convection.

5. Bring 6 cups of water and baking soda to a low rolling boil, reduce heat to low.

Dip each pretzel into water for 55 seconds each, with the top of the pretzel facing down.

6. Flip and place on a Silpat silicone baking mat, allowing them to dry for 10 minutes.

7. Reduce oven heat to 315º F. Place pan in oven and bake for 9 minutes until dark golden brown in colour, turning once, with a 2 minute steam (add some water into oven to create steam). Remove from oven and allow to cool for a few minutes.

8. Turn the oven up to 400º F. Brush the pretzels with maple syrup, and flash cook for another 90 seconds.

9. Whip the butter with the maple syrup together and finish off the pretzels by brushing with the maple butter. Top with sea salt.

- April 2015

- May 2016

14 Culinaire | May 2022

Photo by Dong Kim

¼ cup shelled edamame beans 2 Tbs cherry/grape tomatoes, halved, tossed in oil, and dehydrated in a 150º F oven until shrivelled ¼ tsp of lemon peel, skin only, very small dice ¼ cup butter, medium dice ¼ cup garlic croutons To taste lemon juice To taste salt 3 Tbs fresh mint, finely chopped

Fricassee of Calamari

1. Render guanciale in a 20 cm skillet (no oil) until starting to lightly brown and crisp, about 3-5 minutes.

We share our anniversary with Model Milk, and their 2. Add garlic and onion and toss constantly until aromatic, about Fricassee of Calamari is one of many classic dishes from this 30 seconds. restaurant. There’d be a mutiny if it was removed, it’s been 3. Add Korean chilli until lightly toasted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. on the menu since they opened!

4. Slice squid into 0.5 cm strips and add to pan. Toss frequently until the strips are starting to become opaque, about 2-5 minutes.

Serves 2 as an appetizer 5. Add edamame, tomatoes, and lemon peel and toss until 4 Tbs cured guanciale, medium dice combined. Slowly add in butter, one knob at a time, until all 1 tsp garlic, thinly sliced ingredients are glazed.

1 tsp white onion, brunoise 6. Add garlic croutons, season with lemon juice and salt to taste.

1½ Tbs Korean chilli 7. Garnish with mint.

2 cups U10 squid tubes, tops/bottoms removed - September 2019

Model Milk, Calgary

Paella Mixta Valenciana Las Canarias, Calgary

Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

Las Canarias offer five different paellas, and they say that the key to making a perfect dish is perfecting your socarrat (the crusty, nearly burnt, layer of rice at the bottom of the pan), so don’t be tempted to keep stirring the rice. Once cooked, let it cling to the bottom of the pan and wait for the magic to happen.

Makes 6 to 8 servings 6 cups (1.5 L) chicken stock 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 10 g finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Pinch sea salt Pinch saffron threads, crumbled 2/3 cup (150 mL) olive oil 250 g large shrimp in shell 300 g chicken breast, bite size pieces 300 g rabbit meat (saddle, loin, legs) 300 g cod, monkfish or grouper, bite size chunks 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium red bell pepper, finely chopped 1 medium tomato, finely chopped Pinch Spanish smoked paprika 600 g Spanish Bomba or other paella rice 250 g fresh mussels and clams Lemon wedges to serve

and cook, stirring until pink then transfer to a platter.

4. Add the chicken and rabbit and cook, turning occasionally, until browned but not fully cooked.

5. Transfer to the platter. Add fish to the pan and cook until browned.

Transfer to platter.

6. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring, until softened. Stir in tomato and cook for a minute more, and add the paprika.

7. Add the rice and stir to coat well with the pan mixture. Add chicken stock and the mortar mixture and cook on medium heat, rotating and shaking the pan occasionally, until the bubbles rising from the pan look slightly thick and the rice begins to be visible.

8. Add fish, rabbit, and chicken and cook until the rice is no longer soupy, but enough liquid remains to continue cooking the rice. Top up with more 1. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Heat chicken stock and chicken stock if needed.

9. Arrange shrimps, mussels, and clams over the rice, transfer to the oven keep hot until needed. and bake 10-12 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is almost 2. In a mortar or small food processor, mash garlic, al dente, tender but still firm to the bite. Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley, salt and saffron.

3. In a 45 cm (18”) paella pan or large ovenproof frying serve hot.

- July/August 2017 pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shrimp May 2022 | Culinaire 15

Mushroom Toast with Poached Eggs Brad Tebble, PIP, Edmonton

Head Chef Tebble is all about comfort food – the heart of every good brunch menu.

“Salt, pepper, and butter are the best things to happen to food in my opinion,” he says. Don’t hold back on seasoning when trying out his favourite mushroom toast with poached eggs!

Courtesy Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts

Cilantro's Lemon Conchigliette

Chef Lancelot Monteiro, Cilantro, Calgary

Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

Foreign Concept’s Red Curry Sauce

Chef Duncan Ly, Foreign Concept, Calgary

Some restaurant dishes are so memorable that you dream about them at night. This Red Curry Sauce from Foreign Concept is one of those dishes, and much requested by people who’ve enjoyed it.

Serves 4 1½ stalks lemongrass, pounded ½ yellow onion, diced large 60 mL ginger, thin sliced ½ bulb of garlic, peeled and smashed 2 Tbs (30 mL) vegetable oil 2 scallions, white parts only 2 lime leaves ½ bunch of cilantro 25 g palm sugar 55 g red curry paste 3 1/3 cups (800 mL) vegetable stock 1 can (400 mL) coconut milk 2 limes, juiced Fish sauce to season

Photo by Dong Kim

Serves 2-3 2/3 cup unsalted butter ¼ cup shallots, minced 625 g cremini mushrooms (or mushrooms of your choice), cleaned and sliced 1/3 cup (80 mL) white wine 3 large garlic cloves, minced 1 Tbs fresh thyme, chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) heavy cream To taste salt and black pepper 2-3 large slices of sourdough bread, toasted 2-3 eggs (cooked to your choice) Parmesan cheese, shredded (for garnish)

After 30 years, Cilantro served its last delicious dish in September 2019, but Chef Monteiro is still cooking up superb plates at Buffalo Mountain Lodge in Banff. He used lemon pasta for this dish, but you can use regular conchigliette and add lemon juice to taste at step 5.

Serves 4 250 g dried lemon conchigliette pasta shells 1/3 cup red onion, chopped 1 poblano pepper, julienned 1 tsp garlic, chopped 8 prawns 8 scallops 3 Tbs + 1 tsp (50 mL) dry white wine ½ cup (120 mL) heavy cream 35% 2 Tbs chèvre (soft goat cheese) 2 Tbs chopped fresh basil To taste salt and pepper ½ cup fresh grated Parmesan

1. Sweat lemongrass, yellow onions, ginger, and garlic in vegetable oil until vegetables are soft.

2. Add scallions, lime leaves, cilantro, and palm sugar, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

3. Add curry paste and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly.

4. Add vegetable stock and cook about 40 minutes, then add coconut milk and simmer for a further 30 minutes.

5. Put through a fine strainer. Season with lime juice, fish sauce, and salt if desired.

1. In a wide-bottomed pot, melt butter until it foams. Add shallots, and cook until soft and translucent, approximately 2 minutes.

2. Add mushrooms, cook until fat is absorbed and they start to brown.

3. Add wine to deglaze. Add garlic, thyme, and cream, and season to taste.

Simmer until all liquid is absorbed (mushrooms shouldn’t be runny).

4. Place a generous portion of mushrooms on the toast. Place soft poached egg (or cooked to your preference) on top and garnish with fresh shredded Parmesan cheese. For an added touch, sprinkle crispy potato sticks like hickory sticks on top!

1. Boil the pasta until cooked al dente, cool and set aside.

2. In a large frying pan sauté onion, pepper, and garlic on medium–high heat for 3-5 minutes.

3. Add prawns and scallops, and continue to fry for an additional 3 minutes. Deglaze with the white wine and continue cooking until the wine is reduced by half.

4. Add the cream and goat cheese, let simmer on low-medium heat for 5-8 minutes then add pasta shells and fresh chopped basil.

5. Toss and heat just until the pasta is hot, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with Parmesan and serve.

- November 2017

- May 2019

- March 2018

16 Culinaire | May 2022

Gingerbread Stout Bundt Cake Jen Norfolk, Brûlée Patisserie, Calgary

This Ginger Stout Bundt Cake is made with cocoa nibs, and Brûlée Patisserie suggest buying the best you can afford. It’s not at all a fussy cake to make as it’s all mixed in one bowl!

Makes 1-6 cup bundt or 1-9x5 loaf 1 cup (225 mL) stout beer 1 cup (225 mL) dark molasses 1½ tsp baking soda 3 eggs ½ cup sugar ½ cup brown sugar ¾ cup (175 mL) canola oil 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbs ground ginger ¾ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp cloves ¼ tsp nutmeg 1/8 tsp cardamom 2 Tbs peeled, grated fresh ginger 1 cup cocoa nibs or chopped dates

Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

1. Bring the stout and molasses to a boil over high heat, turn off the heat and add the baking soda. Let the foam settle.

2. Whisk the eggs and sugars together until light and airy.

Whisk in the oil.

3. Combine the remaining ingredients and mix well.

4. Whisk the stout and egg mixtures together.

5. Stir half the liquids into the dry ingredients then add the remainder with the ginger mixture, and stir to combine.

6. Pour into a greased and floured bundt or loaf pan.

7. Bake in a 350° F oven approximately 60 minutes or until a pick comes out clean.

- December 2013

Japchae

Jenny Kang, Orchard Restaurant, Calgary

Japchae was once a royal Korean dish dating back to the 1600s, and one that Chef Kang’s large family would eat on special occasions. It’s also the dish Kang honed her julienne skills on, and it holds a special place in her heart.

Serves 4 200 g glass noodles (sweet potato starch noodles) 200 g thinly sliced chicken, beef, or pork shoulder ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce 1/3 cup (80 g) brown sugar 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil, divided 1 medium red onion, julienned 1 medium carrot, julienned 1 bell pepper, julienned 150 g fresh spinach To taste salt and pepper 1 cup sliced mushrooms (chef recommends shiitake, shimeji, or button) 1½ Tbs sesame oil 1 Tbs sesame seeds 1. Soak noodles in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Drain before use.

2. Quick marinate the meat with ½ tbs soy sauce and 1 tsp sugar for at least 30 minutes.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

4. Heat a large pan on medium heat and add 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil. Sweat onions and carrots

Photo by Dong Kim

until soft, and add peppers. Cook for 2 minutes on medium heat, then add spinach and cook for an additional minute. Season with salt. Once cooked, remove vegetables from pan and set aside in a large bowl to cool.

5. Add remaining canola oil to pan and add mushrooms, cooking on medium high heat until soft. Add meat and sauté until cooked. Remove from pan and add to bowl containing cooked vegetables.

6. Add noodles to boiling water and cook for 6 minutes. Once cooked, drain and add to bowl with meat and vegetables.

7. Mix remaining soy sauce, brown sugar, and sesame oil together, pour over contents of bowl, and toss to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle sesame seeds overtop.

- May 2021 May 2022 | Culinaire 17

Sweet Scones with Dark Chocolate and Apples

Kim

Aviv and Michal Fried, Sidewalk Citizen, Calgary

4 cups organic white flour ½ cup sugar 1 Tbs baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt 110 g cold butter cut into small cubes ½ cup chocolate chips ½ cup apple cut into small pieces ¾ cup (180 mL) cream

Ph ot ob yD on g

Sidewalk Citizen’s scones are a staple not only at their own locations in Kensington, Calgary’s East Village, and Memorial Park, but they’re available at Blush Lane and many other eateries too.

¼ cup (60 mL) milk Icing sugar (optional) Preheat oven to 350º F 1. Mix all the dry ingredients (flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt) in a bowl.

Poblano Cornbread

Jo-Annie Deschamp, änkôr restaurant Canmore

Danny Beaulieu is ankôr’s owner and head chef, but flavours in the dishes are created as a team. This recipe is from Chef Deschamp, änkôr’s pastry chef and baker. “It reminds me of every holiday that I shared with friends and family,” he says.

Makes one 22.5 cm loaf 3 poblano peppers 1¼ cups butter 2½ cups corn, fresh or frozen ¾ cup (180 mL) cream 3 eggs 1¼ cups pastry flour ¾ cup sugar 1 tsp salt

Mini Fully Loaded Smashed Potato Bites

½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ¾ cup fine cornmeal 1. Place poblano peppers directly on hot BBQ grill and blister the skin. Transfer to a sealed container and allow to steam and cool before peeling and removing the skins. Dice and peel the seeded poblano and set aside.

Photo by Karlynn Johnston

Karlynn Johnston, The Kitchen Magpie, Edmonton

These miniature potato portions are easy to make and even easier to impress with. They work well as an appetizer for any casual gettogether or a memorable side dish for a more proper holiday dinner.

Makes 2-3 dozen potato bites 2-3 dozen baby potatoes, boiled until soft 4-5 Tbs (60-75 mL) olive oil 1-2 tsp seasoning salt 2 cups (500 mL) sour cream 6-7 slices of bacon, cooked and crumbled 18 Culinaire | May 2022

1-2 cups of shredded cheese 3-4 green onions, chopped 1. Pre-heat oven to 450º F. 2. Line 2 baking pans with parchment

2. Add the butter to the bowl, then add the chocolate and the apples to the bowl.

3. In a separate bowl mix together cream and milk and add to the dry ingredients.

Mix all together with a spoon just until all the dry flour is mixed. Try not to over mix it. Using your hands form loose balls about 180 g each and place them on a baking sheet covered with baking paper. Try to keep the balls as loose as possible while still maintaining their shape. You might have to adjust the mix by adding a bit more cream or flour.

4. Place in the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, when scones are light brown.

5. Let cool on a rack and sprinkle icing sugar on top if desired.

- January/February 2020

2. Turn your oven on to 375º F and put in a 22.5 cm cast iron pan to heat.

3. Melt butter in a small pot over medium heat. Add corn and cook until golden.

4. Add corn and butter to a blender with the cream and blend until soft and creamy.

Add eggs and blend thoroughly.

5. In a large bowl sift together all dry ingredients except for the cornmeal. Then whisk in cornmeal until well mixed.

6. Add wet ingredients and poblano to dry ingredients and mix to combine.

7. Remove cast iron from oven and grease lightly with butter. Add batter to the pan and bake for about 35-40 minutes to an internal temperature of 200º F. 8. Serve with plenty of butter.

- November 2021

paper. Brush olive oil over the parchment paper.

3. Place potatoes on baking sheet and gently flatten them using a potato masher, making sure to try and keep them together.

Repeat, keeping potatoes approximately 1 cm apart until you have all the potatoes on the baking sheets, then drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with seasoning salt.

4. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes or until browned and very crispy. Remove and cool slightly.

5. Top each potato with sour cream, bacon, cheese and green onions. Place on serving plate and let everyone help themselves.

- October 2016

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Photo by Ingrid Kuenzel

The Establishment

TAKES ALBERTA ON AN AWARD-WINNING BEER ADVENTURE

BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

Curiosity Calgary

E

ven non-beer drinkers know that over the course of the last decade Alberta has been in the midst of a golden age of craft breweries.

Countless breweries have developed in bigger cities like Calgary and Edmonton, with smaller centres like Medicine Hat and Turner Valley punching well above their weight too when it comes to thoughtfully crafted high-quality beer.

With so many solid breweries in the province, by 2019 it seemed like Alberta was reaching a beer saturation point and there couldn’t possibly be any kind of beer not available on local liquor store shelves.

But then Calgary’s The Establishment came along and proved to Albertans that the world of beer is much wider than many of us thought. Having just celebrated its third anniversary, the brewery is a passion project started

20 Culinaire | May 2022

by Mike Foniok and Dave Ronneberg (third partner Brandon Hart takes a less hands-on approach).

The self-described beer nerds were heavily involved with the Cowtown Yeast Wranglers home brewers club, but after a decade of home experimentation, they decided to jump on the craft brewery wave before the market really did become too over-crowded. The brewery was named after a communal house in Erlton that they lived and brewed in, reminding them that their new venture started as a hobby and needed to continue to spark their sense of creativity and wonder.

“We're such beer nerds,” Foniok says.

“We did this specifically for the love of beer — the quality of the beer was always at the forefront. I know it's hard to differentiate yourself by just saying that we're going make the best beer, but that’s our goal.”

That plan is working. In 2021, The Establishment was named both the Alberta Brewery of the Year at the Alberta Beer Awards and the Canadian Brewery of the Year at the Canadian Brewery Awards. The recognition doesn’t come as a huge surprise to The Establishment’s fans: in addition to using their skills to make a very solid line-up of core beers like the refreshing Afternoon Delight New England pale ale and the ultra-flavourful Jam Rock blackberry and vanilla sour, as well as a constant parade of seasonal offerings, the brewery’s calling card is its barrel-aged wild beers, which are limited edition large-scale bottles made with wild yeast cultures.

The brewery’s production room is stacked with over 80 barrels of beer spiked with live culture — some have been bubbling away for years. Every few

months The Establishment will release a new line-up of blends, with each one boasting the complexity of a good wine.

It’s a risky and incredibly labour-intensive way of making beer, but carefully blended limited-edition brews have made The Establishment a must-try for serious beer lovers.

“I definitely came here for the barrel program and to get my hands and palette on those beers” says Production Manager Natasha Peiskar, who joined the Establishment in 2020 after brewing at Last Best and Tool Shed. “The complexity changes over time and each barrel has its own personality. Even though we have a house culture we use for them, each barrel is an individual.”

While that barrel program makes for some very exciting brews, they certainly aren’t for everyone, and part of what has won The Establishment their accolades is the brewery’s dedication to providing a little something for everyone, an extraordinary feat given the team’s incredibly high standards. That inclusivity is part of the brewery’s culture — they’re very careful in making sure customers know that there is no place for discrimination within the company or at its tasting room. Earlier this year the brewery participated in the Brave Noise initiative, brewing a special beer with proceeds going to the Hop Forward Society, an organization that works to promote diversity in Alberta’s craft beer industry.

Speaking of the tap room, the location in Calgary’s Barley Belt has the feeling of

an industrial clubhouse, with the barrels lingering in the back and an inviting bar at the front of the room. Even though their core beers and some seasonals are available by the can in liquor stores, since The Establishment produces so many unusual beers, the tap room really is the best place to get a handle on the brewery’s spirit. Many of the barrel-aged brews are available on tap so that customers don’t have to commit to a buying whole bottle of a potentially controversial flavour, and hard-core wild yeast fans can indulge in the cellar program by ordering select aged bottles of discontinued releases. The bar also specializes in European-style pours, with a side-pull tap that makes for a larger, creamier foam head.

Coming up, The Establishment team wants to push the barrel program further (though, they admit that their current

facility is already bursting at the seams) while also continuing to come as close as possible to perfecting every style of beer that they can dream up. But while beer has always been serious business for this crew, even back in the home brewing days, Foniok says that exploring and enjoying the love of beer is still his number one mission.

“At the end of the day, it's just beer,” Foniak says. “It's just liquid. But it helps foster conversation. Hopefully what we do will help expand people's horizons and their pallets and encourage them to try something new.”

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

Join the Wilder Institute/Calgary Zoo each Sunday* for a unique brunch experience! *Until Sunday, November 13, 2022.

Get your tickets today at calgaryzoo.com/events/safari-brunch

Mooooove Over Beef It’s Bison’s Turn to Roam STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY

1 cup crimini mushrooms, sliced 2 tsp garlic, grated 1 sprig rosemary (or ½ tsp ground) 5 sprigs thyme (or 1 tsp ground) ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine 1. In a large cast iron pan over medium heat add 2 Tbs butter and let it just start to brown.

2. Pat dry the steaks and season with salt and pepper. Add the steaks to the pan making sure not to overcrowd your pan.

Cook on one side for 2 minutes.

3. Flip steaks and sear another 2 minutes and remove from pan and set aside. This should give you a perfectly medium rare bison steak. If cooked longer, the meat starts to get tough.

4. Add the other 2 Tbs butter and olive oil to the pan. Add the mushrooms, rosemary and thyme and let cook, stirring occasionally. Brown the mushrooms on both sides, approximately 3 - 5 minutes.

5. Add the garlic and stir together with the mushrooms. Add the wine and reduce slightly.

6. Add the steaks back into the pan and turn to coat.

B

ison is a naturally tender, dense meat with a rich, clean, almost sweet taste, and no gaminess.

A limited amount of fat means bison is a healthier option and requires less time to cook, which means that dinner is on the table in record time. Bison will take on flavours quickly and readily, however it prefers being a minimalist – just a touch of salt and pepper and the beauty of this meat really shines.

22 Culinaire | May 2022

Asian Style Bison Lettuce Cups Serves 4 as an appetizer

Bison Steak Medallions and Mushrooms Serves 4

4 Tbs butter, divided To taste salt and pepper 4 - 170 to 225g bison strip loin steaks (or your preference for size) 2 Tbs butter 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 cup shitake mushrooms, sliced

1 Tbs (15 mL) light soy sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) dark soy sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) oyster sauce ½ tsp (3 mL) Chinese cooking wine ½ tsp (3 mL) rice wine vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil 3 Tbs red onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 454 g ground bison 2 Tbs cornstarch 1 Tbs (15 mL) cold water

¼ cup snap peas, thinly sliced ¼ cup water chestnuts, sliced 8 - 12 leaves Bibb lettuce, or other kind of lettuce Grated carrots, sesame seeds, cilantro, cashews for garnish 1. Combine the light soy sauce, dark soy, oyster sauce, cooking wine, and rice wine vinegar in a small bowl and reserve.

2. In a sauté pan, over medium heat, heat sesame oil. Add the onions and garlic to the pan and cook 2 minutes.

3. Add the ground bison. Break the bison into small chunks and cook 3 - 4 minutes making sure the meat is still a bit pink.

4. Add the soy sauce mixture. Stir to combine about 2 minutes.

5. Mix the cornstarch and water together to form a slurry. Add slurry to the middle of the pan and stir to thicken the sauce. Add a touch of water if you need to thin.

6. Remove the bison from the pan.

7. Add the snap peas and water chestnuts to the pan and toss with the bit of sauce left in the pan. Cook 2 minutes.

8. Prepare garnishes as desired. Serve in lettuce wraps warm or at room temperature. Pile on the garnishes for a fun and delicious meal.

Best Bison Burgers

Makes 4 delectable burgers 454 g ground bison 1 tsp ground rosemary 1½ tsp ground thyme 1 tsp ground sage 1 tsp minced garlic

Scan here to find a retailer near you or visit liquorconnect.com

1 tsp ground black pepper 4 cloves roasted garlic ½ tsp sea salt 4 Tbs butter, divided 2 large onions, thinly sliced To taste sea salt 8 slices cheddar cheese 4 brioche buns 4 Tbs (60 mL) mayonnaise 4 tsp (20 mL) horseradish 4 slices tomato 4 leaves lettuce 1. In a medium bowl add the bison, rosemary, thyme, sage, garlic, black pepper, and roasted garlic, and massage the flavours into the bison. Let sit as you get the onions ready.

2. In a medium sauté pan over medium heat, add 2 Tbs butter. Once melted, add the onions and let cook 2 minutes. Add the salt and continue cooking and stirring the onions, reducing the heat as necessary so the onions don’t burn. Continue cooking approximately 15 minutes as the onions brown and their flavour deepens.

3. Divide the ground meat into 4 equal patties and shape. Season with sea salt right before adding to pan.

4. Preheat oven to broil.

5. In a large sauté pan, add 2 Tbs butter and allow to brown, over medium to medium-high heat. Add the patties and cook 3 minutes per side. The patties should still be a bit pink inside.

6. Remove patties from pan and place on a baking sheet with 2 slices of cheese on each patty. Melt the cheese under the broiler in your oven. At the same time on

another baking sheet toast the brioche buns.

7. Mix the horseradish and the mayonnaise together and spread over toasted buns.

8. Layer the bison patty topped with melted cheese. Add a scoop of the sautéed onions. Top with a slice of tomato and lettuce and cap with the top bun.

Note: Bison cooks faster so your meals will be ready quicker. It’s best to have everything prepped before time so you don’t leave your bison drying out on the stove while you’re playing catch up.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

COLD SHOTS

Alberta-made Jerky A BETTER WAY TO HIT THE ROAD

BY KELLY-ANNE RIESS

F

or thousands of years, people have been making and eating jerky, primarily as a way of preserving meat for the future, or as something to take on a journey.

Jerky dates back to Ancient Egypt, long before the refrigerator was invented,

24 Culinaire | May 2022

but likely its history goes much further into the past. Closer to home, in North America, many indigenous groups across the continent utilized smoked fish and bison in their various culinary traditions.

Later, early cowboys in the 1820s made and carried jerky with them as a

nutritious, filling, and handy snack that could be eaten when out herding cattle.

Fast forward to today and the popularity of the snack has never been greater. This has been a boon for Alberta’s local beef jerky industry that knows how to make a healthier version of the snack lower in sugar and sodium than many of the more commercial offerings, and lower in chemical preservatives. Business has been booming.

“This is not your common, toothsome hunk of salty beef,” says Tara Seitz, owner of Uptown Jerky in Grande Prairie, who only adds aromatic vegetables and spices to her jerky. Seitz decided she’d start her company while eating her own homemade jerky, and jokes her product is like if Brad Pitt and charcuterie had a baby.

She and many local entrepreneurs, like Greg Pahl, owner of Medicine Hat Meat Traders, use locally sourced, simple ingredients for their jerky. He says Alberta’s lucky to have such an amazing supply of great beef to begin with. Pahl’s business started out as a family-owned, full-service head-to-tail butcher shop. At first, he used only cattle from his ranch for his jerky, but when sales took off, he began sourcing beef from other Albertan ranchers.

Medicine Hat Meat Traders’ uniqueness comes from using beef that’s ground, as opposed to being sliced.

Formed to create a softer, more flavourful tasting experience, it’s available in eight flavours—original, black pepper, dill pickle, smoky maple, honey garlic, chipotle lime, and habanero. Pahl also invented Caesar Sticks, a beef jerky garnish for Canada’s national cocktail, which are just what they sound like — long, narrow sticks of ground beef, smoked dry. They offer three flavours: classic, dill pickle, and hot. At only 110 calories a serving, some people skip the Caesar and enjoy them as a tasty snack.

Owning the trademark for Caesar Sticks, Pahl hopes to market them nationwide this summer, although they’re already a best seller. Some days, Pahl says it’s hard to keep up, as demand for jerky has risen over the last several years. Speculating that it’s not only the popularity of low-carb diets that have increased consumption, it’s also because even during the pandemic, people aren’t sitting down for meals as often, but still looking for foods with high nutritional value and convenience.

This may be why, closer to home, Greg Hamel, owner of Alberta Jerky in Cold Lake, says he’s seen his sales take off over the last few years. In 2020, he tripled his online sales from the previous year, and in 2021, he saw a 25 percent jump in growth.

Alberta Jerky takes orders from all over Canada. Hamel even once got a request for his jerky from NASA after former Governor General Julie Payette went through Cold Lake and tried Alberta Jerky. When she later became an astronaut, she had NASA put in an order, which is how Hamel’s jerky ended up aboard the Space Shuttle Endeavor.

Hamel sent the astronauts different flavors of jerky to see which ones they liked best before they launched. It turns out they preferred Sweet and Spicy best, so that’s the flavour they took on the mission. Since jerky travels so well, it’s also a popular snack choice for those going on a hike or a road trip, on the golf course, and to other sporting events.

Those feeling ambitious at home can try their hand at making their own jerky, even without a dehydrator.

Jerky can be cooked in the oven at a very low temperature, between 170° F to 200° F, on a cooling rack atop a cookie sheet for three to four hours. Almost any cut of beef can be used, but it should be cut with the grain and be between 3 mm to 6 mm thick. Recipes, flavours, and seasoning suggestions are widely available, and easy marinades include barbecue or teriyaki sauce.

The meat should marinate for at least six hours in the fridge before placing it in the oven.

In Edmonton, Heidi Mirander and her neighbour went into business together, creating Andy’s Beef Jerky, after Mirander discovered the neighbour made the best beef jerky she ever tasted. “It was so soft,” she says. When making their jerky, as many Canadian ingredients as possible are used: the maple syrup used in several flavours is sourced from Ontario, and even the packaging is local. Mirander tries to cater to her customer’s needs, even creating halal jerky upon request, using meat that’s produced in accordance with Islamic practices.

Alberta Jerky, Medicine Hat Meat Traders, and Andy’s Beef Jerky, all have online storefronts, while Uptown Jerky is sold at various stores across the province.

Kelly-Anne Riess is a journalist living in Cold Lake. Her past work has appeared in the Globe and Mail, Chatelaine and Canadian Geographic.

A decade of good taste.

Congratulations to Linda Garson and Culinaire Magazine, two of Alberta’s most dedicated food and drink heroes, for ten incredible years! chocolate chocolate together together

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Go For the Burn:

A Ginger Beer Primer

BY LUCY HAINES

really all about the burn. We carry up to a dozen brands, and they are popular yearround because the warmth of ginger works in all seasons,” says Francis.

“I have been a fan of the cane sugar sweetened ginger beers since childhood, often treated at my grandmother’s place to the non-alcohol version from her ginger beer plant that bubbled away in the kitchen. A resurgence in popularity of recent years has seen a number of new craft soda ginger beers being produced here locally such as Grizzly Paw and Annex,” said Andrew Paulsen, sommelier coordinator at Calgary's Coop Wine Spirits Beer. “Our nearby Alberta distillery, Eau Claire, has a cocktail in a can EquineOx Mule - that combines Annex ginger beer with Eau Claire's Prickly Pear Vodka. It's a delicious treat on a warm day.”

The local option

H

ave you ever wandered the beverage aisle at the grocery store, or beer section of the liquor store and been a bit confused over the ginger beer offerings? What's the difference between ginger beer and ginger ale, for example? And if it's alcoholic, is ginger beer a 'beer'?

It can be a bit confusing admit consumers and even ginger beer makers.

But with warm weather months here, and aficionados anxious to enjoy this refreshing, spicy and versatile mixer at the next backyard get-together - on its own or in a classic cocktail (Moscow Mule, anyone?) – it's time to get the 411 on this bold beverage.

Edmontonian Alison Phillips knows what she likes - and it's ginger beer. Tops on Phillips’ list, especially on a sweltering summer afternoon, “it’s the best drink 26 Culinaire | May 2022

to enjoy with fish and chips," she says.

“I'm not a big beer drinker, so one of my favourite ways to use ginger beer is in a shandy; half a regular-type beer in a glass, topped up with crisp, fragrant ginger beer.

For me, the spicier and hotter the gingery taste, the better.”

At Edmonton's Sherbrooke Liquor Ottewell, which specializes in craft and imported beers, partner Erica Francis says she loves the kick of ginger beer too, whether it's the uber-strong, spicy likes of Royal Jamaican (Crabbie's from the UK is another popular choice) or a smoother, closer-to-home version, from makers like Phillips Brewing out of Victoria, BC Though some fermented brews use hops and malt, thus qualifying as 'beer', there isn't wheat or barley in ginger beer, Francis explains.

“For those who love ginger beer, it's

Calgary's Annex Ale Project is finding success with its soft-drink-style ginger beer. Using just whole, natural ingredients - ginger, lemon juice and cane sugar small batches of ginger beer are made in a two-day process for tap room customers and those who find the canned artisanal brew at Sobeys/Safeway, Co-op, and Freson Bros.

“We follow the company ethos for all our products - handmade, small batch brews,” says Andrew Bullied, Annex co-owner. 'It's a citrus forward ginger beer, with less of a burn than other brands. For the younger set or those who prefer a nonalcoholic option, it's a refreshing option.”

Ginger beer origins

Originating with the colonial spice trade in Asia and sugar-producing islands of the Caribbean, ginger beer first became popular in Britain in the 18th century. Though ginger has been lauded as a treatment for medical ailments for thousands of years - as a digestive, to stimulate circulation and more - the ginger root plant also found favour as the basis

for a beverage. Originally brewed with yeast and sugar to create a fermented swill, the refreshment has grown in popularity around the world, clocking in at around 4 percent alcohol.

Commercial, non-alcoholic ginger beer differs from its boozy brethren in that there is no fermentation - the ginger liquid is carbonated, canned and/or bottled and sold around the world as a spicy mixer, though you can also enjoy it straight up, over ice with a bit of fizzy water and slice of lemon or lime. Alcoholic or not, the ginger in the beverage contains the active compound gingerol, a natural oil and rich source of magnesium, potassium, copper, and vitamin B6.

United Distributors of Canada general manager Rick Anand, who imports Royal Jamaican Ginger Beer for the North American market, says Jamaican ginger has traditionally been recognized as premier among gingers for the quality of its flavour, oil content and appearance, contributing to that brand's characteristic bold, strong-ish (over 4 percent alcohol) profile.

“Ginger beer lovers who want the burn go for this one,” says Anand, who acknowledges the brand is at the high end of the ginger beer spectrum for cost and flavour punch. Royal Jamaican ginger beer is made with malt, fresh yellow and blue ginger, hops, cane sugar and rum. “Bars tell us they like our bottles because it can go two ways - used on its own over ice with lemon, or to make popular cocktails like the Moscow Mule (with vodka, lime and mint) or Dark and Stormy (with dark rum and lime over ice).”

Royal Jamaican likewise has a nonalcohol version and will soon offer Canadian markets a ginger beer infused with hibiscus and sorrel. The notes of cinnamon and allspice conjure a mulled wine vibe, something Anand says will inspire year-round demand for the product.

Non-alcoholic ginger beer a grocery store staple

Don't confuse the ginger beer in the supermarket with ginger ale, even though it's usually sitting close by on store shelves.

Ginger ale is a carbonated soft drink, with sugar, water, bubbles, and ginger flavouring (Canada Dry, for example). Non-alcoholic ginger beer is usually spicier and with varying amount of carbonation.

BLACK FOX RARE | AUTHENTIC | SUSTAINABLE

Big players in this market include U.K.-based Fever-Tree and The Great Gentleman (formerly the Great Jamaican).

Fever-Tree Canada marketing manager Alexis Green says at its core, the company's premium product is meant as a mixer, with a prominent level of carbonation that contributes to a pleasing mouth feel. The light product (available in 250 mL and 500 mL) is a standout, according to Green, pointing to Fever-Tree's use of all-natural cane sugar/fructose to tame the spicy ginger bite.

“By brewing a blend of three gingers from Nigeria, Cochin, and the Ivory Coast, we have created a ginger beer that isn't too sweet on the palate but still has a deep, long-lasting ginger character,” she says.

“We keep it simple for consumers, offering a premium mix they can add to a premium spirit, elevated with a garnish. If three quarters of the drink is the mix, make it the best.”

Green says while there's increasing demand for the light product, Fever-Tree's regular ginger beer is a market leader for a reason, balancing the level of sweet with the fieriness of the ginger.

Food pairings on the menu too

Black Fox delivers true Canadian craftsmanship with gins and whiskies created for special m o m e n t s . We combine agricultural expertise with the art of distilling.

From our hands to yours,

Because of its bold character, ginger beer is a favourite for pairing with similarly zippy foods. Anand says Royal Jamaican goes well with Chinese, Indian, Thai, Japanese, and Caribbean cuisine, as well as complementing rich or cream-based meals.

“If you buy a ginger beer and don't like drinking it, don't pour it down the drain," adds Phillips, who is also co-owner of Aligra Wine and Spirits in West Edmonton Mall. "There's lots of delicious chicken and pork recipes that call for ginger beer in the marinade or sauce.” www.blackfoxfarmanddistillery.com

Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.

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A B OT TLE O F S U DS …

Local is Better

BY TOM FIRTH

T

he sheer range and variety of beers these days being made in Wild Rose Country is simply staggering.

There are everyday session beers, crisp and refreshing pilsners and wits, beautiful ales, potent IPAs, and some seriously good stouts. Plus, we won’t even get started on the saisons or wild ferment beers that are really making people sit up and take notice.

In the spirit of our proud, local beer tradition, we have a few gems to share this month, but more importantly, if you haven’t been experiencing them for yourself already – you really should.

Prices are approximate, and some retailers may or may not include bottle deposit in their prices.

Trolley 5 Turntable Lager, Alberta Lagers are a great choice on those hot days, especially while working out in the yard, or working up a sweat getting some fresh air and healthy exercise – or sitting on a patio and having some laughs! Trolley 5 must be reading my mind since their Turntable lager checks off all the boxes for wetting that whistle. Nicely balanced and never straying into weird lager territory, it's crisp and clean, and damn good too.

CSPC +837263 $16-18 (4-pack cans) Alley Kat Fish Bone New England IPA, Alberta Have to say, I am pretty pumped about these New England Style IPAs. Alley Kat, a long-time craft producer in Edmonton, created a real gem with a completely easy to drink IPA that has all those floral and citrus hoppy notes and less of the bitterness that a lot of IPAs are showing off these days. Best of all is the full and long finish, that just keeps you coming back till it’s done.

CSPC +829281 $15-17 (6-pack cans)

28 Culinaire | May 2022

XhAle Impeachable Hopped Peach Wheat Ale, Alberta Love peaches almost as much as you love a good beer? This Impeachable is a little provocative in several ways, but we’ll keep focusing on the beer. It’s a fruit/foot forward, assertive ale that has no trouble crowing about what it thinks you should know. Namely bright, fresh peach notes, a flowery, expressive fruit, and still a pleasant creaminess through the finish. Very nice, and perfect for those hotter days.

CSPC +840422 $17-19 (4-pack cans) Annex Forward Progress Pale Ale, Alberta Consistently one of the best pale ales year after year at the Alberta Beverage Awards, Forward Progress is a treat for a weary soul, and a thirsty one too. Expertly balanced between hop and malty dominance with a full and aromatic nose, but importantly a full and flavourful palate. A beer that tastes just as good on tap as it does at home in a can. But that finish… oh my, it’s good.

CSPC +807102 $16-18 (4-pack cans) Grizzly Paw Beavertail Raspberry Ale, Alberta A good beer to have on hand at the old homestead when the weather is taking a turn for the better. I enjoy raspberry beers and my wife LOVES them, so it’s an easy choice to have around. Grizzly Paw’s is a very light example ale-wise, but what it has in abundance is plenty of ripe and tart raspberry notes that all come together in a well-balanced crusher. If you can handle a little bit of raspberry overload, pop a few fresh ones in your glass too.

CSPC +803921 $15-17 (6-pack cans)

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STEP BY STEP

A Slice of Sunshine: Key Lime Cheesecake with Pretzel Crust STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

C

heesecake is one of those classic desserts that’s very adaptable when it comes to filling flavours, toppings, and crust ingredients. To celebrate sunshine and warmer weather, I used the bright flavour of Key limes here, but standard limes work just as well.

Their acidity marries really well with the creaminess of the filling.

Salty pretzels work wonders in the crust alongside the usual graham cracker crumbs, but if you wanted to use only graham crumbs, that’s fine too. A rich and tangy lime curd is the perfect topping, but it’s so delicious on its own, you’ll have to muster all of your willpower to save some for the cake.

While cheesecake may seem like a complicated dessert to make at home, I assure you that it’s not. Sure, there are a few steps involved, but the `Key' thing to remember is to have the eggs and cream cheese at room temperature.

For the best crack-free cheesecake, it’s best to bake it in a water bath. This method yields a light, creamy texture and is well worth the effort. The steamy environment inside the oven helps to cook the cheesecake gently, and the extra moisture means the surface won’t dry out and crack. After baking, a gradual cooling process also helps keep the cake from cracking.

I know it sounds like a diva dessert, but cheesecake is one of the best desserts to make ahead, even a few days before you want to eat it. And if somehow the cheesecake still gets a few cracks, don’t fret, you’re topping it with lime curd and no one will ever know.

30 Culinaire | May 2022

Key Lime Cheesecake with Pretzel Crust Serves 10-12

Key Lime Curd

3 large eggs 1 large egg yolk ¾ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) freshly squeezed Key lime juice 1 tsp Key lime zest 1-2 drops green gel food colouring, optional ¼ cup salted butter 1. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the eggs, egg yolk, and granulated sugar until combined. Whisk in the Key lime juice, zest, and food colouring, if using.

2. Turn the heat on medium-low and whisk the mixture constantly until warmed through. Add the butter a little at a time until it melts, and using a rubber spatula, continue stirring until the curd begins to thicken and coat the back of the spoon.

3. To check if it’s thick enough, slide your finger across the back of the spoon and if the line holds, the curd is done. If there are detectable eggy bits, you can strain the curd through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl.

If not, just scrape the curd into the bowl and cover the surface directly with plastic wrap to prevent a layer from forming as it cools. Refrigerate until chilled and set. This can be made up to two days ahead.

Cheesecake:

3 blocks (250 g each) cream cheese, at room temperature 1/3 cup (80 mL) sour cream 1 can (284 mL) sweetened condensed milk 3 large eggs 2 Tbs (30 mL) freshly squeezed Key lime juice 1 Tbs (15 mL) Key lime zest Whipped cream, berries for serving 1. Place the cream cheese in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed until smooth. Add the sour cream and beat again, scraping down the sides.

2. Add the sweetened condensed milk and the eggs, and beat for a minute until smooth and incorporated. Pour in the lime juice and zest and beat until well combined, scraping down the sides as needed.

Pretzel Crust

1 cup pretzels, crushed 1 cup graham cracker crumbs ¼ cup granulated sugar ½ cup salted butter, melted 1. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the pretzels and graham crumbs. Process until the mixture becomes crumbs. Transfer these to a medium bowl, then add the sugar and melted butter.

2. Grease a 23 cm springform pan. Press the crumbs into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Place in the refrigerator while you prepare the filling.

Preheat the oven to 350º F. 1. Put a tea kettle of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Have a large, deep baking pan (large enough to hold the springform pan) ready.

2. Remove the pan from the refrigerator and wrap the exterior with aluminum foil. Pour the cheesecake filing into the crust and smooth the top. Place the cheesecake inside the larger pan and place it in the oven. Carefully pour the hot

water into the bottom of the large baking pan to create a water bath about halfway up the outer sides of the springform pan.

3. Bake the cheesecake for about 50-60 minutes, until the top is lightly golden and the middle still jiggles a bit.

Carefully lift the cheesecake out of the water bath and transfer to a wire rack where it can cool completely. While the cake is still warm, run a sharp paring knife around the cake. This helps prevent any sticking to the side. Refrigerate the cheesecake overnight.

4. To serve the cheesecake: Remove the sides of the springform pan. Spread the lime curd over the top of the cheesecake.

If desired, pipe whipped cream around the edge of the cheesecake and garnish with lime slices and fresh berries.

Serve immediately. Refrigerate leftover cheesecake for up to 5 days.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.

Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.

Our brand new taproom is open in sunny Lacombe and we warmly welcome you to come on by. We can't wait to show you around.

Plus, tacos!

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May Spirits

M

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

ay is a beautiful month in Alberta. It’s often warm enough to venture out to the mountains, or spend a day wandering around the neighbourhood, and it’s likely that our gardens are getting underway too. In the spirit of the great outdoors and beauty around us, we’ve found some lovely products that are just as suitable in an afternoon cocktail as they’d be neat or on the rocks in the early evening. A pair of tasty Canadian vodkas, some smooth and easygoing whiskies, and a pair of floral and very different gins make up our spirit recommendations this month.

Park Distillery Vanilla Vodka, Alberta There is simply no denying the presence of vanilla in this vodka (about the equivalent of a half Madagascar vanilla bean per bottle), but most surprising is how “authentic” the vanilla character is. No corners are cut here!

Vanilla dominates most of the aromas, but on the palate, it’s a fine balance between vanilla and smooth, quality-focused vodka characters. Think good vanilla ice cream with a kick. Excellent on its own, it’s quite versatile in cocktails too.

CSPC + 778454 $50-55

The Busker Triple Cask Triple Smooth Irish Whiskey, Ireland Triple cask and triple smooth appears on the label of the Busker, and it’s a bold claim – in a way like the cajones that a good busker might have. Aged in bourbon, sherry, and marsala casks, a little of each cask comes through in the glass, but on the palate, things come together nicely with a touch of tropical fruits, vanilla, and cereal character, but a filling and creamy finish – that is damn smooth too.

CSPC +847593 $35-40

Mighty Moose Vodka, Ontario Brand new in Alberta is Mighty Moose Vodka from Ontario. With stripped down, simple packaging, it’s a clean, triple-distilled and charcoal-filtered vodka, with nothing added after distilling making it glutenfree too, and with a slightly sweet smell of Saskatchewan Winter Wheat on the nose. Try as a Mighty Caesar; or with just a squeeze of lime and topped up with soda; as a Mighty Mule with ginger beer and lime; or on a hot day as a simple Screwdriver with lots of ice topped with orange juice.

CSPC +849507 $38-40

Six Dogs Pinotage Stained Gin, Western Cape, South Africa Now for something completely different!

Six Dogs distill their gin in small batches with plenty of juniper and fresh citrus, and when it’s ready, their winery neighbours in De Wet Valley zip up the road after they’ve picked and destalked their pinotage grapes, and place whole grapes into the tanks with the gin to macerate for a few weeks. It has a lovely sweet plum nose and notes on the palate, and the grapes adds a delicate salmon colour to the gin too. Something new for both gin and wine lovers!

CSPC +856793 $68-72

Yours Truly Whisky, Eau Claire Distillery, Alberta Created to honour International Women’s Day, Yours Truly is Eau Claire’s latest limited release single malt whisky, and it’s a collaboration by three women distillers: Master Distiller Caitlin Quinn, Distiller Thecla Wiart, and Apprentice Distiller Alicyn Campbell. They’ve created a beauty it’s smooth, with dark chocolate, raspberry, and vanilla on the nose, giving way to notes of honey veering to dark brown sugar on the palate, and a long, warming finish. $10 from each bottle goes to Women In Need too! $80 at distillery outlets and eauclairedistillery.ca.

32 Culinaire | May 2022

Sorgin, Bordeaux, France In 1880, the grandfather of internationally acclaimed French winemaker, François Lurton, inherited a distillery, but it wasn’t until 2016 that Lurton decided to relaunch it and create a beautiful, complex, gin with his favourite grape too – sauvignon blanc!

Sorgin (meaning witch or sorcerer) is very aromatic, and you’ll recognise lifted aromas of juniper, along with grapefruit, lemon and lime zests, and the grassy, herbaceous notes of the grapes. I’d suggest sipping Sorgin ice cold in the sun, neat or as a martini…

CSPC +848476 $53-56

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Ten (Somewhat) Unrecognized Beer Styles

BY BY DAVID NUTTALL

G

o to any brewery taproom or decent pub and the first thing you may notice is the variety of beer available.

It wasn't always that way.

When tiny cottage/farmhouse operations dominated brewing, they made what they could and rarely gave it a name.

As brewing moved into the industrial age, beers were given a descriptive name (pale ale, hefeweizen, pilsner, etc.) to separate the different styles, but Big Brewing concentrated on volume over variety, so options were slim.

All this began to change with the advent of craft brewing in the 1980s. Inspired by Michael James Jackson’s The World Guide to Beer and home brewing, beer started to be classified into style categories. The American Homebrewers Association (AHA) and the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) both developed style descriptors and guidelines for judging competitions with brewing specifications conforming to the different elements of beer such as appearance, aroma, flavour, mouthfeel, ingredients, history, and region of origin.

Both groups initially created around a dozen categories that represented the historic styles developed almost entirely in Europe over the previous couple of centuries. Along with the subcategories, this showcased about 60 different varieties. Because brewing constantly grows and evolves, these guidelines have been updated regularly over the past couple of decades. Currently, the 2021 BJCP style guidelines contain 34 categories with over 120 subcategories. The Brewers Association (who had merged with the AHA) currently has 98 categories listed, with over 115 subcategories for their Great American Beer Festival (GABF) competition. Needless to say, variety is now our friend.

Nonetheless, there are even more styles that get don’t get official recognition. They usually get relegated into the “Specialty” or “Experimental” categories, which are depositories for the obscure. Eventually, they may graduate

34 Culinaire | May 2022

to their own category if they become popular (see NEIPA 2011-present), or may disappear if they don’t (see Glitter Beer 2017-2019, hopefully). Such is the nature of the game.

So in amongst all these hundreds of varieties lie the interlopers; those familiar style names neither group acknowledges. In honour of Culinaire’s 10th anniversary, here are ten informal styles that aren’t officially recognized by either the BJCP or BA, with a few examples you should be able to find in Alberta.

1. Oyster Stout - As recently as 2015, this used to be mentioned as a subset of the Sweet Stout subcategory.

So named because the beer pairs well with oysters, not because it is an ingredient. However, now some craft breweries have been known to add oysters or its juice into a brew kettle to create something unique.

Dandy In The Underworld (no oysters) CSPC +822587 $14 (4-pack cans) 2. Milkshake IPA - A juicy IPA with a heavy dose of lactose to create a sweeter, thicker mouthfeel, usually with added fruit.

New Level Wizard’s Revenge CSPC +811503 $5 Hell's Basement The Yard series 3. Smoothie Sour - A sour version of #2 above, maybe opening the possibility for Milkshake Sours and Smoothie IPAs too?

Valley Brewing May Day series 4. Farmhouse Ale - Technically not a style, but a whole genre of beers still made all over Europe and adopted now

by North American craft breweries. Usually each beer has a distinctive yeast, diverse ingredients, and unique brewing

and conditioning methods.

Valley Brewing Prairie Icon, CSPC +826990 $17-$18 (4-pack cans) Dandy Brewing A Magnificent Seven CSPC +858530 $19 (4-pack cans) 5. Kettle Sour - More of a process than a style. Sours can be made many ways, but the quickest method is to add bacteria to the wort in a kettle, reducing the time to sour the beer from months or years to as little as a day.

Blindman’s Dry Hopped Kettle Sour CSPC +830859 $18 (4-pack cans) 6. Mexican Lager - Craft brewers jumped on the popularity of light Latin American lagers, usually partly made with corn, to create what is actually a subset of the International Lager style.

Brewsters Mexcellent Cerveza CSPC +818787 $16-17 (6-pack cans)

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7. Pastry Stout - Somewhere, a brewer thought beer should taste like dessert. Either by using malts and adjuncts which evoke those flavours, or simply throwing whole desserts into the kettle (yes, they do), the result remains the same.

Town Square Brewing White Wedding White Pastry Stout CSPC +822250 $19 (4-pack cans) Dandy My Only Qualification (Is as an Eater) CSPC +865813 $24 (4-pack cans) 8. Radler/Shandy - Almost everybody now knows what these beer and fruit juice combinations are, and almost every brewery makes one, even if only for the summer season. Officially though, they reside in the humble fruit beer category.

9. Italian Pilsner - A result of a happy accident, it's only been around for a couple of decades, so it has had little exposure.

Separated from other pilsners by going through a dryhopping process.

Tailgunner Brewing Bella Rosa CSPC +859704 $13-14 (4-pack cans) 10. Session beers - "Session" has become beer-speak for "lower alcohol" so it can apply to any beer variety. The GABF created a Session Beer category in 2008; the BJCP treats the word as an adjective within multiple beer styles.

Numerous examples exist in Alberta.

Note: Just as beer competition organizers may create whatever categories they wish for judging, brewers are allowed to name their beers whatever they want. It helps, however, if the name resonates with the general public.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.

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Please enjoy the adventure responsibly. © 2022 Fluid Assets Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Registration is now open! for

THE TENTH ANNUAL ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS

Visit culinairemagazine.ca/ABA to enter your products OPEN TO ANY: WINE < BEER < SPIRITS < MEAD < CIDER < MIXER SAKE < LIQUEUR < NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE Registration Deadline: June 30 • Judging: July 18, 19, and 20

For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca 36 Culinaire | May 2022

MAKING THE CASE

For BC Wines

By TOM FIRTH

Let me root, root, root for the home team….

W

hether you are a fan of baseball or not, there is a certain appeal to cheering on the home team, and it’s an important thing to support as many local businesses as we can.

Over the 26+ years I’ve been involved in beverages, the story of our next-door neighbour in wine has seen a great many changes. In leaps and bounds, the quality has elevated British Columbia’s wines to world class in many regards, and they stand tall with many examples from around the globe.

While rarely inexpensive, the wines are indeed priced fairly, and in most cases, each of these wineries are a mere drop in the bucket in terms of how much wine each can produce compared to many of the bigger wineries that grace our liquor store shelves. Even the biggest BC

wineries are tiny – often family owned and run enterprises that survive at the whim of nature, relying on the significant talents of the folks involved, and some pretty spectacular vineyard sites. If you’ve never been to wine country in British Columbia, it’s a worthwhile trip – and bring a camera.

In some ways, talking about BC wines is a little like preaching to the choir. They’ve always been good, and in the last 15-20 years, they’ve started being excellent.

If one is lucky enough to visit the region, you’ll know that it’s a wonderful combination of incredible scenery, some utterly fantastic dining options, (golf - if that is your thing), and wineries. A quick insider tip, the view is always better from the winery than it is from the highway.

It’s far better to pull in for a few minutes

than to keep driving - unless you have an appointment at the next winery.

I was prompted to reflect on what has been happening in these wineries over the last ten years or so, and it was a little harder to do than expected. More of the long-time growers have hung out a shingle as winery producers now, lending that expertise in making quality grapes to the finished product. The growth in wineries has been slowing down somewhat, but we have seen further entrenching of who really is making the good stuff. The brands you like are better than ever, many of the vineyards have had their vines replaced a few times now, so have better clonal selections, even better site selections, and also exactly what is being planted where in a specific vineyard.

creative dishes. Grab your mum and join us for six courses of this delicious, carefully paired menu.

evening of this fabulous, premium, multi-course pairing dinner in the private dining room for 18 people.

Check culinairemagazine.ca/events regularly, and please email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve and to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city.

They do sell out rather quickly!

We try to cater for all allergies.

One-Off Fine & Dine Pairing Dinner at T.Pot China Bistro Wednesday May 25 T.Pot China Bistro was awarded the Best Cantonese Cuisine Restaurant in Canada 2018, and we’re coming for a very special, one-off, 6-course pairing dinner to enjoy this elevated and completely delicious cuisine!

Vine & Dine at The Attic Mother’s Day, Sunday May 8!

Our first Vine & Dine evening at The Attic last month was absolutely superb!

We can’t wait to return for a repeat of Chef Lyndon Hertz’s upscale and

Special Surf-Turf dinner at Modern Steak Southport Thursday May 12 SOLD OUT! Thursday May 26 Our first event at Modern Steak sold out quickly, so we’re thrilled to offer another

Vine & Dine at Las Canarias Wednesday June 15 and Tuesday June 21 Always excellent, we love our summery evenings at Las Canarias, and this year we have two nights for this authentic, 6-course Spanish pairing dinner, with some of the best paella in the city, and much-loved dishes from the Canary Isles.

We’re delighted to announce new dates, new pairing dinners, and new menus for you to enjoy an evening of good food where you don’t have to do the washing up afterwards.

May 2022 | Culinaire 37

Hester Creek 2021 Old Vine Pinot Blanc Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia

Often a second fiddle to the incredibly popular pinot gris, pinot blanc may just well be a better fit for growing in BC than it’s better known cousin. Here, look for ripe, apple flesh, lemony tones, and a remarkable (and welcome) floral presence. Impeccable on the palate with great fruits, a lengthy development on the palate and a mild, almost bitter finish. A gem.

CSPC +749773 $21-24

The development of the Sub-GIs (or Sub-Geographical Indications) over the past few years has been a real boon for fans of great wines that manage to speak of that sense of place – terroir. Now, in addition to places like the Golden Mile Bench, areas we’ve know for years that produce unique wine are getting that added recognition – look for Okanagan Falls, Naramata, Skaha Bench, and likely others to come. Finally, it’s about the talent – that’s never been better. These things matter.

More recently, after a few years of hiatus, I’ve been judging some of the national Canadian wine competitions again. It’s always beneficial to see, over a few intense days of tasting, a complete snapshot of what is happening “in the bottle” with our wines – without seeing a label, knowing the winemaker, the price, province, or being there – just the liquid in the bottle. What’s been emerging is that Canadian wineries aren’t really chasing the classics anymore. It’s not about a French style of sauvignon blanc, or a classic expression of syrah, or Germanic riesling. The wines are showing off distinctive expressions of Canadian terroir: made in Canada rieslings, earthy, spicy syrah, and some pretty spectacular chardonnays – to name a few.

It's been tough for everyone over the past several years and when it came to finding a selection of wines 38 Culinaire | May 2022

to recommend this month, it was hampered by a number of wineries that I wanted to support, simply not being available at retail in Alberta any longer.

Margins are thin, competition is tough, and wallets are a little thinner in most enthusiast’s pockets.

Quite a few wineries are pivoting to a Direct to Consumer, or DTC model, choosing instead to sell to consumers directly online rather than in a retail shop. While I definitely prefer to recommend products available in our local wine shops and liquor stores, there are circumstances where a sought-after product is only available in limited quantities at the winery. If you see it, can’t get it in a shop here, and want it, it never hurts to contact the winery and check out some options.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards in addition to being the president of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers Alberta Chapter.

Road 13 2018 Jackpot Cabernet Sauvignon, British Columbia

A seriously good bottle of cabernet sure to impress even the most stringent devotee of the grape. Intensely aromatic with a clean, brambly/jammy note but also showing off all those cedary herbal notes ripe cabernet can possess. Palate is big and full and while ready to drink now, a few years in the cellar will soften things up for that prime rib or monster burger you are famous for. A Jackpot indeed!

CSPC +841488 $80-85

Quails’ Gate 2020 Chasselas Pinot Gris Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A well-loved bottle around these parts and a rare opportunity to taste a wine made with chasselas – but expertly blended with a few pinots - that still lets some of that chasselas show through. Bright lime citrus characters with stony mineral notes, green apple, and succulent herbaciousness. A clean palate shows off all the great fruits.

A lovely glass on a warm day, and a fine match with subtler seafood or freshwater dishes.

CSPC +585737 about $21-25

Kitsch 2019 7 Barrel Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

CedarCreek 2019 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Mission Hill 2021 Reserve Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Township 7 2020 7 Blanc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Tantalus 2020 “Bear” Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Culmina 2020 Unicus Grüner Veltliner Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Bartier Brothers 2019 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Spearhead 2019 Golden Retreat Vineyard Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Burrowing Owl 2019 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

One of my favourite, newer BC wineries we are seeing here in Alberta, Kitsch has a few gems to look diligently for. This chardonnay is more firmly on the oak spectrum than we often see here, but what really makes this stand out is the candy-like citrus and clean tropical notes that work well with that oak. A sleek, sexy chardonnay that is a pleasure to drink. So try to find this one…

CSPC +861960 $42-45

A classic offering from the talented folks at Township 7, and a funky blend of several aromatic and flavourful varieties. I’ve tried most of the vintages of the 7 Blanc over the years and this might be my favourite. Crisp, lemony fruits with a strong tropical leaning and a touch of herbaciousness to bring a little added balance. A smidge of sweetness is nicely offset by excellent acids. A tightly wound, crushable bottle.

CSPC +114553 $18-21

Yet another remarkable expression of merlot from the Okanagan, and one of my favourite wineries working with it.

Bartier Brothers nails it once again. Deep, ripe berry fruit with a mild juiciness on the nose, but also mild herb and earthy notes poking through. On the palate, it’s seriously good with firm tannins and a chewy, almost smokiness tying it all together. Drinking very well now, but will really shine about 5 years or so after the vintage.

CSPC +761518 $36-40

While I adore the Platinum tier from CedarCreek, there is simply no arguing with the value and quality of the estate wines. A classic, almost textbook New World pinot noir, with loads of pure and generous fruits, clean herbal tones, a mild tartness on the palate, and a surprising fullness from the tannins. A pleasure to drink, but versatile at the table too. Try pairing with red meats or sausage.

CSPC +567412 $30-32

A chardonnay that easily checks off all the boxes. A fruit, rather than barrel-driven, bottle with melon or apple characters, a subtle spice, and barrel notes that are almost felt rather than tasted. But there is a clean and still balanced vanilla and buttery profile that are so easy to enjoy. There is a mild nuttiness at the finish, which would be a fine thing to accentuate with seafood or even something like grilled pork or morels.

CSPC +784084 $30-34

Spearhead makes some of my favourite wines from the Okanagan, and their focus on a few select varieties yields fine results and shows off some serious skills. The Golden Retreat is a little harder to find, but completely worth it, as this is a deeply layered and simply fantastic expression of the grape. Ripe fruits with a pleasing raspberry and cherry quality, and exceptional balance throughout. A wine worth stocking up on and serving to treasured guests.

CSPC +667782 $44-50

A wonderful and widely available example of BC rosé, and from a winery that has a well-established history of making great wines. Mission Hill’s 2021 rosé is freshly landed and showing off merlot, shiraz, and pinot noir characters. The nose is a fine combination of blue and red fruits, flowers, and spice, while the palate is a burst of summer with crisp acids, tight fruit, and a near bone dry expression.

CSPC +814460 $28-30

A beautiful expression of a rather uncommon variety. Grüner is typically associated with Austrian wine (not Australian wine) and loved for its pepper spice and citrus profile. Culmina is pretty well the first to work with this grape in the Okanagan Valley. White pepper and green apples with sleek mineral tones and racy acids. Bone dry and delicious, it’s a nice way to go on those warm evenings.

CSPC +1126737 $38-41

Given the relatively short time period syrah has had success in the Okanagan Valley, the leaps and bounds this grape has been able to achieve is completely remarkable. Bursting at the seams with intense and pure black fruit aromas but also a clean, savoury earthiness and almost over the top floral notes. Big and full on the palate but well balanced with a bright, white pepper spiciness on the back end.

Excellent and delicious, bring out the big guns from the smoker or grill for this one.

CSPC +1074184 $45-49 May 2022 | Culinaire 39

E TC E TE R A . . .

Secret Foods Finishing Sauces

In only one year, Calgary’s Secret Foods’ creamy, tahinibased dipping and drizzling sauces are available in more than 300 stores across Western Canada, and it’s because they’re so good! An homage to creator, Anna Jane Daklala’s Lebanese heritage and her parents, both Smoked Paprika and Lemon Herb flavours are made with water, tahini, lemon juice, EVOO, salt and garlic, and each with their own individual blend of spices and herbs – no dairy, eggs, sugar, gluten, or nuts! 245 mL $9-10 at all good grocery stores.

Park Distillery Cocktail Club

Banff’s Park Distillery have launched their brand new Cocktail Club curated subscription boxes and it’s like opening a treasure chest when you receive it… 3 bottles of spirits plus a little 50 mL mini, step by step creative cocktail and food recipes, and beautiful barware all await inside. We made the both the food and drink recipes, and they’re delicious! Every four months, in March, July, and November, they ship for free and you get a 10 percent discount from their online store too. $169 at parkdistillery.com.

Fleischmann’s Bread Booster

Whether you’re a seasoned bread-baker or amateur enthusiast, you’ll likely be excited by this new bread booster from yeast specialists Fleischmann’s – just 1½ teaspoons added to every cup of flour in your recipe produces dough that is not only easier to knead, but turns out moist and fluffy, we’re super impressed. It stays fresh longer too!

We tried recipes for pizza, ciabatta, focaccia, and rolls, from their website, bakegood.ca, with terrific results each time. $5-$7, widely available in most Alberta grocery stores.

Tim Hortons Ice Cream

Already a beloved staple for many Canadians, Tim Hortons is branching out, and kicking off some products that perhaps aren’t as easy to enjoy in the car. Made with 100 percent Canadian dairy, and launching with five flavours of ice cream including some familiar to the timbit and coffee crowd - like Double Chocolate Donut, Birthday Cake Timbits, and Apple Fritter. While Fruit Explosion (the favourite of our tasting group) and Salted Caramel Iced Capp are fun takes for sure. Widely available at most grocers.

Blender Bites

Voted 2022 Organic Beverage Product of the Year Canada, Blender Bites were developed in Vancouver

by Chelsie Hodge to simplify your smoothies and she achieved it! Just add water to the frozen superfood pucks and blend or shake, and you’re ready to go. Non-GMO, allergen- and sugar-free, they include organic fruits, greens, and essential plant-based vitamins and minerals. Choose green d-tox, power berry, or vita smoothie. 6-serving bags around $15, widely available, blenderbites.com.

40 Culinaire | May 2022

Good Enough: A Cookbook

These days we all might need a little gentle encouraging or support, and why shouldn’t it be available in the kitchen or at mealtimes too? Our perspective is always about good, manageable recipes that taste good, but with recipes like Sticky Toffee Cookies (p.193), Here and Now Jalapeño and Honey Biscuits (p.143) or Miso Salmon Taco Bowl (p.74), Good Enough has a solid approach that just might make eating well a little less stressful. By Leanne Brown, Workman Publishing Co, $25.

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BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

W

hen Greg Zeschuk was a little boy growing up in Edmonton, he wanted to be a doctor. He went to university and spent eight years training, before graduating in 1992.

After medical school Zeschuk spent a year in Ohio, and while a doctor, he became an entrepreneur. Returning to Edmonton, he started video game company, BioWare, making story-based and role-playing games, with a vision that if it wasn't successful, he would return to being a doctor. “No one likes a creative doctor,” he laughs. “You're supposed to follow the rules, but I started a company with a couple of colleagues, and it ended up being successful.”

They worked on Dungeons & Dragons, Star Wars games, and with Microsoft on a variety of titles. Eventually they created their own popular games, Mass Effect and Dragon Age, and in 2012, were bought out.

With the games, Zeschuk had spent a lot of time in Texas, which was having a craft beer boom, and he started a YouTube channel, The Beer Diaries. It was a long-format show, and he’d interview beer entrepreneurs. “It was almost an educational show about the brewing business and beer-making, so I got a miniMBA from these,” he says.

“10 years ago, I retired from video games, then got into the beer and brewing side. That was my new hobby and I wanted to start a brewery.” He’d been fortunate to travel all over the world. “In Denver, they have these really neat little breweries in neighbourhoods, just small gathering places where people get together. I thought that was really cool. I came home saying, ‘okay, I want to do that.’”

42 Culinaire | May 2022

At that time, however, Alberta didn’t allow breweries in neighbourhoods. “The city of Edmonton said you can't do that, but what you can do is make a restaurant, and then you can stick your brewery in your restaurant. The zoning is for only one use, so it's a restaurant that happens to have a brewery in it,” he explains. “So that's how Biera came about, which is funny because I wanted to have food, and I met Christine (Sandford, Biera’s Executive Chef) who was working at Acme Meat here in Edmonton, and she had a vision for a small neighbourhood restaurant as well.”

“It was confusing for customers because they would show up at the brewery and discover it's a nice restaurant, and they would get mad at us that it was not your typical brewery tap room saying, you're being pretentious and too fancy.”

Blind Enthusiasm is not a typical brewery. “It's not meant to be,” Zeschuk says. “It's for mixed barrels – it’s more like a winery.” Four years ago the law changed, and they could build the new Monolith, for the barrels and a tap room. “We've brewed for three and a half years, and my brewer worked at Cantillon, so we use a very similar method where we put the beer into barrels to ferment for three years. We

couldn't open the taproom in the first few years because there was no beer. We just started releasing beer, and waited to open until the beer literally started flowing.”

What bottle does Zeschuk have squirrelled away?

“It's actually the first Cantillon I ever bought, the Grand Cru Bruocsella,” says Zeschuk. “I knew what these beers were, but I’d never bought one, so I went to Sherbrooke Liquor and bought a bunch of different Cantillons.” In 2008, Cantillons were $27, and Zeschuk knew they’d be worth it (now, they retail for over $50).

Grand Cru Bruocsella is a still, lambic beer aged three years in oak barrels. “I would say it’s the most esoteric beer they make,” he adds. “It’ll last for decades; they just get more oxidized notes and leather notes. We're starting to make these still beers, it’s a very small part of our production, but it would be fun to try alongside some of the stuff we're making.”

Zeschuk describes himself as a ‘taste explorer’, trying new beers whenever he travels. “It's funny that I bought it in Edmonton - we have to think how fortunate we are in Alberta. Because of the flexibility of the importing scheme, we have everything from everywhere.”

MODERN STEAK A N A L B E R TA P R I M E G R A D E S T E A K H O U S E

Check the menu out at www.modernsteak.ca

KENSINGTON | STEPHEN AVE | SOUTHPORT

Airdrie’s craft beer scene is growing.

Explore the

Airdrie Ale Trail A young and dynamic city, Airdrie is filled with rustic charm, authentic appeal, and stellar food and drink. Plan a self-guided tour of the local craft breweries, each with their own distinct story and experience, or visit one of the many Airdrie restaurants and pubs that support them.

Your new favourite beer is waiting for you.

airdrie.ca/visit