Culinaire #8.9 (March 2020)

Page 10

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Cucina Italia! BY TOM FIRTH | PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

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talian cuisine is enjoyed the world over for good reason. But good Italian-style dining can come from anywhere, and from chefs who aren’t of Italian heritage. Many recipes can have that distinctive Italian approach, but incorporate flavours or techniques that aren’t quite traditional. For our March issue, which always focuses on everything Italian, we spoke with six chefs from Calgary and Edmonton, who might not have an Italian pedigree but who make great Italian dishes. What we found from the chefs was a near-unanimous support for selecting the freshest, most authentic ingredients, and also a focus on keeping it simple. Which is really what good food is all about.

Thipp Xaykasem, executive chef of Allora in Calgary’s Aspen Woods community, talks of a simple concept for the restaurant; quality, local, house-made or imported ingredients directly from Italy— providing that authentic and traditional Italian experience their customers crave. What Chef Thipp likes most about Italian cuisine is, “The simplicity. There is nothing fancy or intricate when it comes down to the characteristics that tie a dish together. However, this can also make the creation of Italian dishes tricky. Simple ingredients with the emphasis on fresh and local can really come to life if executed correctly.” For making dishes at home, chef recommends having different qualities of olive oils, one for cooking and one of higher quality for drizzling, garnishing or dipping bread into. For cooking pasta, the water to pasta ratio should be 4 to 1 – also, the water should taste like the ocean—heavily salted. Lastly, he says, “Have fun and enjoy

yourself when cooking. Italian cooking is all about fun, delicious meals, and bringing the family together. The more people, the better.” Chef Thipp’s Signature Roasted Tomato Sauce is a phenomenal base for pasta, pizzas, and other dishes. Allora’s Signature Roasted Tomato Sauce Serves 6–8

425 g onion, medium dice ½ + ⅓ cup (200 mL) olive oil 50 g garlic, rough chop 1 tsp (4 g) dried oregano 1 tsp (4 g) granulated onion 1 tsp (4 g) granulated garlic 2 tsp (10 g) smoked paprika 1 tsp (5 g) chilli flakes ¾ cup (182 mL) tomato paste 3–960 g cans pureed San Marzano tomato 2 tsp (8 g) fresh basil 3 Tbs +1 tsp (50 mL) red wine vinegar To taste salt and ground pepper 1. In a saucepot, sweat onions in olive oil on medium heat. Season with pinch of salt, add garlic and spices, sweating for 1-2 more minutes. 2. Add tomato paste. Cook for 2 minutes. Add pureed tomatoes. Bring to a simmer, transfer to an oven safe pan. 3. Add fresh basil to the top of the sauce. Cover with parchment paper then cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 2 hours at 350º F (sauce will reduce significantly). Remove from oven. Let cool for about 15 minutes. 4. Remove aluminum foil carefully, discard parchment and basil. Puree with hand blender to your desired consistency. 5. Season with red wine vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Sauce will keep in the fridge for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 2 weeks.

10 Culinaire | March 2020


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