Culinaire #8.9 (March 2020)

Page 36

BY DAVID NUTTALL

ru ready 4 rtds?

W

hat we in canada call coolers (terms vary in different countries) had its genesis in the 1960s through the 1970s, when Californians took the cheapest local wine and combined it with sparking soda and fruit juices to create a spritzer of sort. The Ernest & Julio Gallo winery noticed this popular innovation and introduced Bartles & Jaymes in 1984 and thus wine coolers were born. Shortly thereafter, Canada introduced its version,

Canada, Europe, and Australia led the way in originality, while the USA plodded along with malt-based beverages due to various national and state restrictions on the manufacturing of packaged spirit based pre-mixed drinks. Throughout this century, sales of RTDs have been on a steady increase, even if some individual products debuted with great fervour, only to wane or disappear a couple of years later (remember Zima?). Today in Alberta, with beer sales staying

As the 2000s progressed, numerous other companies joined in and devised their own mixed cocktails in a can or bottle. The base ingredient could be any spirit, combined with fruit flavouring, soda pop, and/or carbonated water. the Canada Cooler, and within a decade Bacardi developed the Breezer, using rum instead of wine. Vodka entered the mix (literally) when Mike’s Hard Lemonade hit the market in 1996, followed by Smirnoff Ice in 1999. As the 2000s progressed, numerous other companies joined in and devised their own mixed cocktails in a can or bottle. The base ingredient could be any spirit, combined with fruit flavouring, soda pop, and/or carbonated water. Sales grew so much that a new liquor category was conceived: the Ready To Drink (RTD). 36 Culinaire | March 2020

level, and cider slowing down, it is coolers that have been growing at over 12% from 2018 to 2019 (according to Connect Logistics), by far the fastest rising division of all liquors. Coolers will pass wine in volume sold this year and will be double the volume of all hard liquor combined if current rates continue. So why the sudden jump? From 2015 to 2017 a trickle of lower alcohol, low calorie, less sweet, fruit flavoured vodka sodas came to market. In 2018, several more arrived, and by 2019, there were literally hundreds available. Will double-digit

growth still happen every year? Of course not; that is unsustainable. Yet in Alberta, we haven’t even been introduced to all the players yet ( just wait for spring-summer 2020), so there is still room for expansion. Coolers take away (mostly) from beer sales, so many breweries have decided not to fight them, but to join them. Numerous coolers are now made at breweries, or in conjunction between distilleries and breweries. It makes sense; breweries specialize in the blending of ingredients and have the packaging processes, while distilleries can provide the base alcohol. As we head into the 2020s, look for more local RTDs, as well as some big players arriving in Alberta. Given their convenience factor, plus the purchasing power and preferences of the 20–35 year-old age bracket, this category isn’t just going to be a short-lived fad. Next up: cannabis beverages. RTDs come in an array of styles. Here are the most common types, with some locally produced examples. There are over 800 different coolers in Alberta, and many brands have multiple varieties available. Hard Soda Pops

The flavours of your youth get kicked into adulthood with imitations of your favourite sodas reincarnated as hard alcohol. You’ll find root beer, cream soda, ginger beer, ginger ale, and fruit sodas, usually made with a vodka base. Alberta made: Boxer Hard Sodas


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