A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S S E P T E M B E R 2 02 0
Indigenous Dishes | Gluten-Free Bakeries | Gin FTW | Healthy Lunches
contents
Volume 9 / No. 3 / September 2020
departments 6
Salutes and Shout Outs
8
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks
13
Book Review
News from Alberta’s culinary scene
8
First Nations and Metis Chefs work with local ingredients and cultural flair Build-A-Bowl
32 Spice It Up: Carrot Cake Decadence and nostalgia
40 Etcetera…
What’s new?
42 Open That Bottle
Lana Turner of Co-op Wine Spirits Beer
16 14
Thriving on Family Farm Culture: Bles-Wold Yogurt
Not all yogurt is created equally by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
16 Back to School…
With lunches to help you learn! by Natalie Findlay
20 On the Rise
Gluten-free bakeries by Daniel Bontje
ON THE COVER As well as tasting delicious, Chef Shane Chartrand’s Puffed Fried Rice dish (see Chef’s Tips, page 12) is visually stunning. Many thanks to Chef Chartrand for sharing it, and to photographer Dong Kim for capturing it beautifully!
22 Cheese For The Season
Celebrating Canadian-made by Candace Hiebert
24 Amplifying our Diverse Voices Creating a more inclusive culinary community by Carmen Cheng
20 27 Sweet and Bitter …The Negroni by Linda Garson
28 Step By Step: Nut Butters Homemade tastes so much better… by Renée Kohlman
30 September Spirits
Extending our summer drinks by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
34 The Rise and Fall and Rise of Gin
Gin’s popularity is still trending up by David Nuttall
38 Making The Case Back to local by Tom Firth
September 2020 | Culinaire 3
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Can we talk? I
HOPE YOU’VE BEEN ABLE TO ENJOY SUMMER THIS YEAR. Did you escape to the mountains or discover some lesser-known gems here on our doorstep? There’s certainly plenty to enjoy without travelling too far afield, as so many Albertans are finding new ways of business, with new offerings and reimagined concepts and ideas – particularly in the hospitality industry. You only have to read our Salutes and Shout Outs this month – double its regular size to try and include as much as possible, and even with an extra page I couldn’t fit everything in, or in as much detail as I’d like; more will be included in October’s issue. But they’re going to need our help to weather this storm. Not everyone is ready to eat out, and that’s absolutely understandable, but most restaurants are happy to provide takeout, and even
happier if you can pick it up yourself rather than have it delivered. We’re slowly and carefully offering live Vine & Dine dinners, but also continuing with takeout packages so you can still enjoy pairing dinners and quality restaurant food at home. It’s still about supporting each other, and not everyone gets that. Our advertisers in this issue do, and we couldn’t be more proud to support them and implore you to vote with your your feet and wallets, and support them too. These businesses are not only helping themselves by promoting their offerings in difficult times, they’re all community players who are also supporting another small business too, and allowing us to continue to print Culinaire for you. We’ve been busy, not only safely running our biggest and most successful Alberta Beverage Awards yet, and we can’t wait for you to see our October results
issue to help with your drinks choices this winter, but as it’s not a group event, we’ve rescheduled our Calgary Treasure Hunt for September 12. Register at culinairemagazine.ca/treasure-hunt so you don’t miss out on one of the most tasty and safely fun days this year! Look forward to seeing you there,
Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief
Getting back into a routine is easy when you’ve got a one-stop shop for school or office lunches! Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End
Italiancentre.ca CALGARY Willow Park
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes
Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Sky Hansen 403-993-0531 sky@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Daniel Bontje, Carmen Cheng Elizabeth Chorney-Booth, Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn, Candace Hiebert Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Karen Miller, David Nuttall
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our contributors Mallory Frayn
Having obtained her PhD in clinical psychology, Mallory combines her two passions, food and psychology, to help people develop healthier relationships with food. As a food writer, she is a regular contributor to publications, such as Eater Montreal and Eat North, where she writes on a variety of food and psychology-related topics. Mallory’s work has also been featured in Time Out Montreal, Canada’s 100 Best, and more. Follow her @cuzilikechoclat.
Dong Kim
A freelance photographer and mental health consultant, Dong splits his time between Edmonton and Calgary. Although he shoots a wide range of subjects, his passion lies in photographing food and capturing stories from the food community. An avid traveller whose itineraries often revolve around learning about a culture through its culinary scene, Dong shares many of his travels and food encounters on Instagram at @thereabuntcake.
Renée Kohlman
Renée Kohlman is an awardwinning cookbook author, food writer, baker, and recipe developer in Saskatoon. When not working on her second cookbook (Vegetables: A Love Story, due Fall, 2021) she’s writing for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and others, and in her garden admiring her sweet peas and coaxing her cats down from trees. Renée hopes one day to go hiking in Iceland, eat a croissant in Paris, and have a dishwasher in her kitchen.
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
chocolate chocolate together together
SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S Snippets of good news from our everchanging food and beverage scene! Tre Stelle is celebrating its 60th anniversary with a free commemorative cookbook, “Say Cheese”. Of 3,000 recipes from across Canada, our recipe for Spinach, Bacon, and Feta Salad is one of 60 featured! Download free in English or French at trestelle.ca/cookbook, or snag a limited edition copy for $39.95 with all profits to Canada’s frontline workers. Alberta’s love of pizza knows no bounds! Cochrane’s Half Hitch Brewing’s sister company, The Mash, has been so successful in Airdrie, selling out of their 400, 10-inch pizzas every day, that they’ve opened in Kensington too! Using spent grain from their Papa Bear Prairie Ale for their dough is not only environmentally friendly, it’s nutritious and delicious! Enjoy best-selling Dill Pickle and Bacon, and Wild Mushroom pizzas on the beautiful hidden patio. 7 days from 11 am with free private parking after 5:30 pm. Joe West Pizza is the latest venture from the team behind Edmonton’s Vintage Fork, and Chef Salar Melli is proud of the organic flour he uses for his hearty, cheese-baked pan crusts. There’s a pizza for everyone from Meat Lovers, topped with four types of sausage, to Vegetarian Ratatouille loaded with veggies! Closed Mondays. Now Brett McDermott’s Our Daily Brett has moved to a larger space on Calgary’s 14 Street SW, he’s opened a new dine-in/ take out pizza spot, Actually Pretty Good in the original location. With partner, Chris Gale, of Fairmont Banff Springs’ Castello Ristorante, they’re serving up both classic and creative, thin crust, “California-style” pizzas, with house-made, gluten-friendly crust and plant-based mozza options. A choice of starters, salads and pastas too. Open seven days. There’s a new restaurant at River Cree Casino, Italia, with a mouth-watering menu. We’re drooling for Alaskan scallops 6 Culinaire | September 2020
with charred cauliflower risotto and double-smoked bacon; their roasted lingcod cioppino with many goodies from the sea; wild mushroom gnocchi with arugula and oven-dried tomatoes; beef tip and wild mushroom pappardelle; grainfed veal chop; and game hen Parmesan. Mmm mmm! Wednesday–Sunday, 5 pm-10 pm. In Calgary, Blink has been revamped from the more corporate, upscale restaurant to a second Annabelle’s Kitchen, after the success of the Marda Loop location. Executive Chef, Chris Dewling, is still heading up the kitchen of this casual Italian eatery, with a menu of antipasti, pizzas and pastas, as well as favourites from Blink’s lunch menu. Open TuesdaySaturday. Not stopping there, they’ve also launched Annabelle’s Kitchen catering division, for social gatherings at home! On the Move! Doughnut Party has a new home in Edmonton’s Brewery District, at 11980 104 Avenue, next door to Tokiwa Ramen. Open for walk-ins, or order at doughnutparty.ca for delivery and pickup! Wednesday-Sunday. From lobster gnocchi to Tuscan baked cheese dip with flatbread chips, and plenty more high-end comfort food in between, Edmonton’s Villa Bistro has moved from 104 Street to the former Nello’s spot at 11520 100 Avenue. Not only can you eat well at some of our new restaurants, but now you can also pick up curated grocery items. A1 Bodega has opened in Calgary’s Two Penny space, and it’s fabulous. The aim is zero food waste, and you’ll find products from other restaurants in the group - Calcutta Cricket Club, and Native Tongues, A1’s housebaked breads and sauces, as well local
artisan products like Empire Provisions sausage, Salt Craft salamis, dried goods, fruit, veg, cleaners, ice cream, ice, seafood and socks! And to the left is the Café – with stunning dishes for every meal of the day from Chef Mharlon Atienza. Aperitivo hour is from 3-5 pm and includes free tapas with your drink. A snack bar, stone deck pizza oven for pides, beautiful west-facing secret patio, and the most delicious veggie, seafood, pasta and meat dishes, make A1 a must-visit. Open every day from 9 am. And in Edmonton, next to the always excellent Sabor Restaurant, Bodega Pantry is now open for you to take home Spanish and Portuguese pantry staples, as well as made-to-order sandwiches, meats, cheese, salads, fresh seafood, signature sauces and dressings, and desserts. 11:30 am-8:30 pm, closed Sundays. Staying in Edmonton, Taste Of Shangri-La has made 9563 118 Avenue its home, in the ex-Sloppy Hoggs
Bravo Bistro, is heading up the kitchen to deliver some astonishingly deceptive and tasty dishes – we’re still scratching our heads over the most amazing chickpea ice cream and vegan shakes in a wide variety of flavours! 7 days 11 am – 10 pm.
location. There’s a huge menu of Indian, Chinese, Hakka, and Nepali dishes with many veggie options, as well as classic cocktails and mocktails. Open every day from 11 am to late. Soleil Bistro is the new sibling to Calgary’s Patisserie Du Soleil – pastry chefs to the stars and famous, who’ve spent 21 years under the radar. It’s long overdue for the spotlight to shine on Ala Nahal and his daughter Zoe - they strongly believe everyone should have access to affordable good food. Featuring produce from local farmers, you’ll love the lamb skewers with smoked garlic yogurt, the most tender octopus skewers with tomatoes and olives, and be head over heels about the beignet bombs filled with cream cheese, goat cheese and chives. Michelin Star Chef Zoltan Csiki’s breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu of small and large plates is phenomenal value. Opens 8 am, closed Mondays. There’s no stopping Zee Zaidi, who has opened his 9th Remedy Café in Edmonton’s Bell Tower at 10104 103 Avenue. 11 rule-breaking chicken and veggie wraps, as well as samosas and dhosas, are hugely popular, and his chai recipe is making rounds of its own with seven flavours to choose from! Monday–Friday, 8 am–4 pm.
Fairmont Banff Springs has reopened the classic, yet contemporary, Rundle Bar after a beautiful refurbishment. Afternoon tea has been elegantly served here since 1888, and is still yours to enjoy from 11:30 am-3 pm, with an Asian-inspired menu of snacks, small and large plates for lunch and dinner. Rundle Rush Hour is 4-6 pm when you can enjoy a signature cocktail from $10, with live music from local artists 5-7 pm, and 9 pm-midnight.
Tommy Mac likes to enjoy his work, and believes that food should make people smile. He super-sources the ingredients for his burger joint in Calgary’s Chinatown, Phat-Tee Foods, and serves blended in-house, AAA Angus patties with an Asian twist. Try the Phat-Tee burger with egg and bacon, or creamy, scrambled egg and spam. Next door is Mac’s fully remodeled, Uzu Taiyeki ice cream parlour, now expanded to offer soft-serve, roll, scoop, and vegan ice cream in a variety of flavours, like pandan and ube, and cereal and milk! 12-8 pm, closed Mondays. Across the street is the new tropical Vietnamese bar, Paper Lantern. Nhi Tran and brother-in-law, Tanner, are passionate about cocktails, and it shows. Mom, Nguyen, is in the kitchen creating amazing flavours and textures for snacks, rolls, subs and bowls – you’d swear the marinaded tofu was meat! No signs, no reservations necessary, but available. Thursday-Saturday, 5 pm-close. Calgary’s first fast food, vegan burger joint, VBurger, has opened on 17 Avenue SW. Chef Andrea Harling has developed recipes for chickpea patties, Chick’n Bites, cheese sauce and gravy, dips and desserts, and Chef Logan Hamilton, latterly of Made Foods and
Masters of build your box, Basil Box, have opened their bright and modern, fourth Alberta location in CrossIron Mills. Go for a keto, low fat, low calorie, or high fibre signature box or choose your base, veggies, protein, sauces, and toppings to build your own, and wash it all down with a tropical green tea or soda. Healthy, fast, satisfying, and delicious! Calgary’s community-spirited, The Beltliner has joined the Starbelly Group, securing its future as an all-day diner serving next-level, organic comfort food, an upgraded cocktail menu, and Coffeeland takeaway program with from-scratch pastries and sandwiches. We loved Executive Chef Justin Lall and Head Chef Jason Paulhus’ tomato saffron bouillabaisse and we’re coming back for their black truffle chicken pot pie and chana masala rice bowl. A new puppy menu is planned for the dogfriendly patio too! 7 days, early-late. Kensington’s much-loved Vendome Café has reopened its doors after a beautiful refresh – with a new upstairs kitchen, and new, very well-priced, flavourful menu from ex-Yardarm Chef Alejandro Buzzalino. Light and bright, with a relaxing ambiance, Vendome is now open all day and for dinner too! We’re still dreaming about those smoked salmon potato donuts with a creamy garlic dip, Chimichurri Carbonara and Broccoli & Halloumi ‘Caesar’! September 2020 | Culinaire 7
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
Local, Really Local. First Nations and Metis Chefs show us how to work with local ingredients and cultural flair. BY TOM FIRTH I PHOTOGRAPHY BY DONG KIM
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ur September issue regularly focuses on harvest and seasonal dishes, but as this is a year unlike any other, we reached out to Indigenous or First Nations chefs working around the province for their takes on locally sourced dishes that celebrate the cuisine of the first inhabitants of the land around us.
Brad Lazarenko is a busy man. Not only the founder and chef of the Culina family of restaurants, he’s also the culinary director of Métis Crossing in Smoky Lake County, Alberta. “Like the Métis,” Lazarenko tells us, “our favourite dishes come from a fusion of past and present, of European and First Nations, and local and international influences… our philosophy has been to bring in Indigenous chefs to create dishes that guests will travel miles to enjoy.” Little known, but according to Lazarenko: “The origin of bannock is often confused as Indigenous cuisine. It is very Métis and was introduced by the Scottish people.” As for suggestions or tips for cooking at home, chef advises to, “shop seasonally and trust your local farmer. Locally produced food (organic or not) will always be more expensive, but 8 Culinaire | September 2020
the quality is always better - plus your money stays in the local economy.” For something a little different, try Chef Lazarenko’s Métis Boulettes. Métis Boulettes Serves 4-6
2 L (8 cups) meat broth/stock 6 medium potatoes, peeled and cut in quarters 6 stalks of celery, cut into small pieces 6 medium carrots, cut in small pieces 1 kg of ground bison, moose or deer 3 large onions, finely diced 1 Tbs minced garlic 2 Tbs ground fresh sage or dill Pinch of chilies 1 cup flour To taste salt and pepper
1. Boil stock in a large soup pot with potatoes, celery and carrots. 2. Form the ground meat, onions, and herbs/spices into balls (55-75 g) and roll in flour. 3. Place the meatballs in the stock and simmer over medium heat until done, adding a water and flour paste to thicken the broth at the end. Serve with fresh bannock and saskatoon jam. Enjoy!
Chef Billy Alexander is a man in transition. He’s been a consulting chef for Westjet, and the Executive Chef for Little Chief and the Grey Eagle Resort and Casino, but headed to the Caldwell First Nation in Southern Ontario at the end of the summer to start a new restaurant, “3 FIRES” - an indigenous culinary experience planned to be both interactive and informative about the history and culture of the Caldwell people through food and drink. Chef would like to clarify the thought that indigenous people only ate meat and relied on the hunt. “Yes, it is true that we were reliant on the hunt for our meat, but we were largely reliant on our ability to live off the land. Our ability to forage, gather, and garden is what really gave us the day to day nourishment.” Chef Alexander is also quick to correct that indigenous cuisine is a new type or food or even a fad. “Indigenous cuisine has been around for as long as indigenous people have been here, and that dates back over 14,000 years. I like to tell people it’s the longest running fad in the history of these great lands.” For tips on selecting ingredients, Chef Alexander shares, “I am a believer in eating seasonally and sourcing ingredients seasonally. It is simple, it promotes local, and it is always fresh.” He adds, “If you are looking for game meats, my preference is always wild if possible. If that isn’t an option, go to a local butcher where you can usually find venison, bison, elk, or boar, to name a few.” For a complete and delicious meal, try Chef Alexander’s 3 Sisters Salad with Cedar Plank Salmon.
3 Sisters Salad with Cedar Plank Salmon
Serves 4-6
1 cob sweetcorn, shucked and cleaned 1 large bunch green beans, trimmed 1 large summer squash ¼ cup pine nuts ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) fresh lemon juice ¼ cup fresh basil leaves, finely chopped, plus extra for garnish 1 garlic clove, finely grated To taste salt and pepper 1. Place a pot of water on stove to boil. 2. Remove the kernels from the cob using a serrated knife or a small paring knife. Place in a small bowl. 3. Place green beans in a large mixing bowl. Cover the green beans with boiling water from the pot and set aside for 4 minutes. Cover corn kernels with boiling water and set aside for 1 minute. 4. Once vegetables have deepened in colour and softened slightly, pass them through a strainer and rinse with lots of cold water. 5. Using a vegetable peeler, thinly shave the summer squash into ribbons. Work your way around the squash until you hit the seeds in the middle.
6. Toast pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat until light brown and fragrant. 7. For the dressing, place olive oil, lemon juice, basil, and grated garlic into a small jar and shake until emulsified. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. 8. To plate, place squash, green beans, and corn into a large salad bowl. Pour over half the dressing and mix gently with your fingertips to combine. Garnish with pine nuts and fresh basil leaves. Serve immediately.
See culinairemagazine.ca for Chef Alexander’s Cedar and Maple Plank Salmon recipe. September 2020 | Culinaire 9
David Landage is the executive chef at the Clarion Hotel and conference center (soon to be Hilton Double Tree) and is passionate about locally sourced ingredients for the Cross Roads Kitchen, but looking to embrace the flavours and culture of Calgary and its environs. Chef Ladange shares that: “While many people associate venison or deer meat with historical Native American recipes, people from all across the nation also ate rabbit, buffalo, mutton, pork, both saltwater and freshwater fish, and a variety of shellfish.” But he cautions that aiming for historical accuracy: “Many people believe that you should only use ingredients that were naturally found in North America. This leaves out many delicious ingredients that use wheat flour, mutton, or any other foods that were brought over from the old world of Europe.” According to Chef Ladange, when sourcing ingredients: “The native people from North America were skilled farmers by the time the European settlers showed up. Even when they gathered natural food during their nomadic migrations, they enjoyed a host of vegetables, wild grains, and herbs to flavour their recipes. Some of these included melons, nuts, mushrooms, cactus, cabbage, onions, sage, mint, and pumpkins. Whenever possible, support local farmers and markets.” Chef Landage shares his comfort food dish of Bison Short Ribs and Navajo Fry Bread. See culinairemagazine.ca for the Fry Bread recipe. 10 Culinaire | September 2020
Bison Short Ribs and Navajo Fry Bread Serves 6 to 8
4 kg bison short ribs (cut English Style if possible) 4 Tbs butter 1 large onion, rough chop 2 carrots, rough chop 6 cloves garlic, rough chop 2 cups (500 mL) red wine 6 cups (1.5 L) beef stock 1 400 g can peeled whole tomatoes 2 sprigs rosemary 5 sprigs thyme 2 sprigs oregano 2 sprigs sage 5 sprigs parsley 2 bay leaves To taste salt and pepper 1. Heat a braising pan over medium-high heat, it will take 3-4 minutes to get hot. 2. If the meaty side of the short ribs has a layer of fat, use your boning knife to remove it. Season the ribs liberally with salt and pepper, rubbing in thoroughly. 3. Add butter to the hot pan until it melts and the foam subsides. Lay the short ribs
into the pan and begin browning them. Preheat the oven to 350º F. 4. Remove the bison short rib and add the veggies. With a wooden spoon, stir the veggies around. Cook until the onions begin to get transparent and a little caramelized. 5. Add the wine, 1 cup (250 mL) beef stock, and tomatoes. Scrape up the drippings stuck to the bottom of the pan. These are known as known as fond, and add richness to the sauce. 6. Bring the braising liquid to a boil for a minute or two then add the ribs back in. Turn off heat. Add the herbs to the pot and cover with lid. Cook in oven for one hour. 7. After an hour, remove the pan from the oven. Remove lid and flip the ribs over. Re-cover the braising pan and put it back in the oven for another hour. Flip the ribs again. Repeat this process for a total cooking time of 4 hours. When the ribs are done, let them rest for 10 minutes before serving them. Add a little lemon zest on top for a nice touch.
CULTIVATING TOSCANA DIVERSITY CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013
Chef Shane Chartrand is the Culinary Ambassador for the River Cree Resorts and Casino, but he’s well known as a contestant and judge for a number of culinary shows such as Iron Chef, Chop Canada and several others. A man in demand for his work with indigenous groups all over the country, and passion for sharing and promoting good food, more recently Chartrand has been earning accolades for his book; tawâw: Progressive Indigenous Cuisine, written with Jennifer Cockrall-King. Spending a great deal of time on the road most years (this is an unusual year in so many ways), and working with fine dining as well as various indigenous groups, at home Chartrand enjoys “humble” foods like pastas and Bolognese, Mediterranean-style cuisine and the like, though he’s also an avid fisherman and hunter, which ties into his indigenous roots. “People rarely understand what indigenous cuisine really is,” he says. “It’s terroir – local, really local ingredients prepared in a delicious fashion; eating from the land, but we don’t do it all the time.” Chartrand laments that information about indigenous cuisine is somewhat hard to find: “it’s why we wrote the book,” he says. As for a tip for those at home, Chartrand takes a different, if practical, approach: “Get a good chopping block. Invest in a good set of knives too. Give yourself space and time so you don’t get frustrated during the process. Clean as you go.” For an easy and delectable snack or side dish, try Chef Chartrand’s puffed fried rice from his cookbook. 12 Culinaire | September 2020
Puffed Fried Rice
Makes approximately 2 cups 3 cups (750 mL) water 1 cup (250 mL) wild rice, rinsed and drained Neutral-flavoured cooking oil, such as canola, for frying To taste salt 1. Bring the water, rice, and a big pinch of salt to a boil over high heat, and then stir well before covering with a lid. Reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes or until most of the rice kernels have opened fully, showing the white inside. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Drain the cooked rice through a fine mesh sieve and turn out onto the prepared baking sheet. Let the rice dry and cool to
room temperature, about 30 minutes. 3. In a deep-fryer, heat the oil to 350° F, or pour 5 cm oil into a pot and heat over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 375° F. For shallow frying, work in small batches so as not to crowd the pot and allow oil to come back up to temperature in between batches. 4. Fry the rice until it stops bubbling vigorously and is golden brown, a couple of minutes. When each batch is done, use a wire-mesh scoop (known as a spider) or slotted spoon to transfer to a clean paper-towel or parchmentlined baking sheet. While rice is still hot, sprinkle generously with salt. Repeat until all the rice is fried. Let cool completely before storing, loosely covered, at room temperature. Tastes best when used within a few days.
B O O K R E V I E W BY K A R E N M I LLE R
Build-A-Bowl By Nicki Sizemore Storey Publishing $29
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ne-bowl recipes are not a new “thing” but they certainly can be found everywhere now. Buddha, poke, burrito, taco, power, and even smoothie bowls have taken over. The beauty of them, other than the obvious potential for “Instagram-worthy” photos, is they can be easily personalized based on ingredient availability and taste preferences. They can satisfy even the pickiest of eaters, adults and kids alike, and ideal for kids to have a real say in choosing their own food, and trying new things! Sizemore develops recipes for her blog (FromScratchFast.com), for cooking classes and popular magazines, so she has experience in food that is good and fast! It’s not so much just one recipe, but rather components - some made ahead or some leftovers, and it’s easy to see how you can pull together a first-rate meal when you need to.
The book provides a basic formula from which to build a bowl, combining grains, vegetables, protein, sauce, and even a crunch finish. It really is all about combining texture and flavour, but that is no reason to forego a healthy combination. Before setting out the recipes, Sizemore provides extensive instructions for cooking many of the ingredients, with lots of hints on make ahead options. The recipes are divided into ingredient categories (with a handy index at the back). There are some great breakfast bowls that could easily double as dessert (Apple Crisp Bowl on p. 35) and some recipes are merely “bowl“ versions of dishes we know and love (Huevos Rancheros p.55). Whether you like lots of fresh vegetables in the crunchy VietnameseInspired Chicken and Rice Salad (p. 123)
or the spirited style of a Korean BBQ flavour in the Bibimbap-Strip Steak bowl, the ideas are appealing. Fall is a great time when it comes to provisions, with lots of choice, so it’s the perfect time to use the book as a guide to composing your own delicious bowls bowls that indulge you and your family’s taste buds. The prospects really are endless and delicious! Karen is a lawyer by trade, who claims to have been on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon sooner than most, and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.
In a city where beef is King, Caesar’s Steakhouse is a Calgary Institution Downtown: 512 - 4 Avenue SW 403-264-1222 I Willow Park: 110, 10816 Macleod Trail SE 403-278-3930 I caesarssteakhouse.com
Bles-Wold Yogurt:
thriving W on family farm culture BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH 14 Culinaire | September 2020
hen most of us reach for a yogurt – any brand of yogurt — we assume we’re making a healthy choice. Those probiotics are supposed to be good for you, after all. But not all yogurt is created equally (be sure to read your labels!) and Albertans may be pleased to know that some of the most wholesome yogurt on grocery store shelves is made right here in the land of beef and barley. Bles-Wold yogurt was launched by Hennie Bos and Tinie Eilers in 1996. After immigrating to Alberta from the Netherlands, the Bos-Eilers wanted
to make a yogurt product that would be suitable for their daughter, who was affected by Type 1 diabetes. They experienced success with local farmers’ markets and eventually Co-op stores, and after a rewarding run, were ready to retire in 2018. Not wanting to wipe out their yogurt legacy, the Bos-Eilers approached another family of DutchAlbertan dairy farmers about carrying on the Bles-Wold brand. Today, Bles-Wold is owned by the Beyer family, who have also operated Crystal Springs Cheese near Coalhurst, in Southern Alberta, since 2005.
Founded by Evert and Jannie Beyer, whose three adult sons also work with the business, Crystal Springs already had its own dairy, making it a perfect fit. “Hennie and Tinie came to us and they found that we really aligned with all of their values,” says operations manager Harvey Beyer. “We’re both family businesses. The Bles-Wold dairy used its own milk and we do the same thing. We have our dairy farm right next door. They invested 20 years of their lives building up the brand and didn’t want to see it go to one of the big names or just disappear completely.” Crystal Springs may not be a familiar name to most Albertans, even those of us who make a point to seek out homegrown products. The cheese side of the company, which produces both goat and cow’s milk cheese, is perhaps most renowned for its feta, but also makes cheddar, Havarti, and Gouda for the wholesale market. Because of a fairly saturated Alberta cheese market, the brand is more widely available in
A2 variants in the protein,” Beyer says. “For a lot of people that can handle goat’s milk but can’t handle cow’s milk, it makes a big difference. It’s not a lactosefree milk, but it has a similar protein structure to goat’s and sheep’s milk.” The protein of the milk is an important differentiator for Bles-Wold, but it’s not the only factor that sets the product apart. The original Bles-Wold yogurt was also fresh and low in sugar and additives, but the Beyers have plans
The Beyers have been working on breeding cows that produce A2 milk, marked with a protein structure that is easier to digest than standard milk. British Columbia, even through both the milk production and cheese-making is done right here in Alberta. It’s only been with the acquisition of Bles-Wold that the Beyer family has been really able to establish a retail foothold here in their home province. Bles-Wold had already made its name as a healthier version of typical grocery store yogurts, but since buying the brand, the Beyers have worked in some techniques that weren’t available to the Bos-Eilers when they first started making yogurt in the ‘90s. For nearly a decade, the Beyers have been working on breeding cows that produce A2 milk, marked with a protein structure that is easier to digest than standard milk. The Beyers now have about 60 cows that produce A2 milk, which is dedicated for use with the Bles-Wold yogurt. “The majority of dairy farms in Canada, have A1/A2 milk, but we test our milk and we make sure it only has
to create a “clean label” yogurt that completely stays away from the fanciful sugar-laden flavours that dominate most modern yogurt cases. Beyond the fruit base (which the Beyers have decreased to lower the sugar content) in the flavoured yogurts, the yogurt itself is made simply, with that A2 milk, a small amount of skim milk powder for thickening, and probiotic culture. The on-site dairy gives BlesWold a sense of freshness that isn’t found in mass produced yogurt. “One of the things we have going for us is that the milk we put in our yogurt is usually only two to three days old,” Beyer says. “We also have a store-to-shelf in three days policy. If we make the yogurt on a Tuesday, it’s in stores by Thursday. And only a small plant like us can do that quick of a turnaround.” Bles-Wold produces about 3,000 litres of yogurt a week, with a product line that includes regular, Greek-style,
and drinkable yogurt in a variety of natural flavours, as well as sour cream. Products are available in Co-op and Sunterra stores throughout Alberta, as well as other select independent and chain grocery stores and markets. Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. September 2020 | Culinaire 15
Back to School with Lunches to Help You Learn!
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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY
t’s been a long time since we have had to get the whole gang organized. With this changing world, we are looking at a new normal for some things but not for others - while school classes may still be a little up in the air as we write, lunches are a given.
One positive thing that the coronavirus has shown us is that we need to do as much as we can to keep our bodies healthy. What we eat is an integral part of supplying nutrition to our bodies. These recipes have quality ingredients, they’re flavourful and easy to make, while being adaptable to different tastes.
Curry Chicken Salad Sandwiches
Serves 6–8
1 large chicken breast 5 Tbs (75 mL) mayonnaise 1½ tsp curry powder 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard 2 stalks celery 35 grapes, cut in half 1. Steam chicken breast in a double boiler (cook time depends on the size of your chicken breast). Let cool then cut into small dice. 2. In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise, curry powder, mustard, grapes, celery and chicken, and stir until everything is coated. 3. Serve with your favourite bread, wrap or pita, or as a topping on salad greens (no dressing required).
Easy Egg Muffins Makes 7
5 eggs 1/3 cup (80 mL) milk 1 green onion, sliced small 1½ tsp chili powder or other hot sauce (if desired) To taste salt and pepper 1¼ cup broccoli, chopped small 1 cup of your favourite hard cheese, grated 1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. Grease muffin container. 3. Whisk together eggs, milk, green onion, chili powder, salt and pepper. Add broccoli and cheese to egg mixture and combine. Pour into muffin tin and bake for 20 minutes. 16 Culinaire | September 2020
Chickpea Avocado Sandwich Makes 4 sandwiches
1 398g can chickpeas, drained 1 Tbs ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp black pepper To taste salt ¼ cup parsley, fine chop 2 small carrots, grated 2 avocados To taste pickled jalapeños 1. Add chickpeas to blender or food processor along with cumin, coriander, black pepper, salt, parsley and carrots. 2. Blend until you have a coarse filling. 3. Add the avocado and jalapeños (if using) and continue to blend until the avocados are just combined. You will want a bit of a rough texture for sandwiches. 4. Again, serve with your favourite bread, wrap or pita, or as a topping on salad greens (no dressing required).
Note:
You can substitute cilantro for parsley. Continue to blend the mixture adding olive oil until you have a smooth texture and use as a spread for sandwiches or a dip for veggies.
Salmon Teriyaki Serves 2
2 cups cooked rice 1 Tbs (15 mL) mirin 1/3 cup (80 mL) soy sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) dark maple syrup 1 Tbs (15 mL) water 200g salmon, skin and bones removed and cut into bite-sized cubes 1 avocado 1 green onion Black sesame seeds, to garnish 1. Make 2 cups of cooked rice as per package direction or use leftovers and reheat. 2. In a small pan over medium heat, add mirin, soy sauce, sesame oil, maple syrup and water. Bring to a boil and reduce to half and it becomes thicker. Once the
sauce has reduced, turn off the heat. 3. Add salmon and let cook in the sauce’s residual heat, approximately 2 minutes. Turn the salmon to coat with the sauce.
4. Toast black sesame seeds. 5. In bowls or lunch containers, add rice, salmon, ½ avocado in each, and green onion. Drizzle with extra sauce and garnish with sesame seeds. September 2020 | Culinaire 17
Quick Snack
Makes 12 small balls 5 Medjool dates 12 dried apricots ¼ cup walnuts 1/3 cup toasted, shredded coconut 1. Soak dates in hot water for 10 minutes. Remove from water and add to a blender or food processor along with the apricots, walnuts and coconut. 2. Pulse until the mixture starts to come together. Scrape down sides and pulse again to reach desired consistency that is soft enough to hold together but with a few larger pieces for texture. 3. Using a spoon, scoop out small amounts of mixture and roll into a ball.
1. Combine all sauce ingredients in a small bowl and reserve. 2. Cook soba noodles as per package directions. 3. Sauté shiitake mushrooms in olive oil, 5 minutes. Add bok choy and let cook another 5 minutes. 4. Lightly toast the sesame seeds for around 2 minutes in a dry frying pan. 5. Place noodles in a bowl or your lunch container. Top with mushrooms, bok choy, cucumber, and pour the sauce overtop. 6. Garnish with green onion, sesame seeds, and a drizzle of sesame oil. Grab your backpack, pencils and lunch box and have a great school year!
Shitake Soba Noodle Salad Serves 2
Sauce
¾ tsp fresh ginger, grated 1 clove garlic, grated ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce or tamari 1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil 1 tsp (5 mL) mirin 18 Culinaire | September 2020
Salad
116 g dry soba noodles 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil ¼ cup shiitake mushrooms 2 small bok choy 90 g cucumber, thinly sliced 1 green onion, thinly sliced Sesame seeds and a drizzle of sesame oil for garnish
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Gluten-Free Cream of White Wine Mushroom Soup Serves 6-8
Sauté: 500 g thinly sliced white mushrooms in ¼ cup butter until soft. Add: 1 cup white wine and 1½ cups water, bring to a boil, simmer 10 mins and set aside. In a large pot sauté 1 cup diced onion, 1 cup diced celery and 1 Tbs minced garlic in 2 Tbs butter.
Cafe & Soup Co.
Artisan, market-sourced gluten-free soups made with love. The way mom used to make it!
Add: 2 L quality stock (veg or chicken), ½ cup of white rice, ½ roasted red pepper, ½ tsp nutmeg, 1 tsp white pepper, 1 tsp dry mustard, 2 tsp Herbes de Provence. Bring to boil, simmer until rice is cooked, then add 1½ L heavy cream (33%). Blend until smooth with an immersion blender. Add mushroom mixture, and stir gently, simmer 5 mins and serve. Enjoy!
Now open for dine-in and takeout! 5255 Richmond Road SW and Avenida Food Hall & Market, 12445 Lake Fraser Dr SE, Calgary
primalsoupcompany.com • primalgroundscafe.com
Meet up. Wind down.
209 4 Avenue SE, Calgary, AB T2G 0C6 | 403 266 1980 | shoeandcanoe.ca
Culinaire March Issue.indd 1
2/19/2020 12:17:44 PM
On the Rise:
Gluten-Free Bakeries
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BY DANIEL BONTJE
here is no question that gluten-free food is here to stay in restaurants, on store shelves, and in-home kitchens around the country. In the not-so-distant past, gluten probably wouldn’t have even been in your vocabulary, but now almost one in three Canadians are buying gluten-free because of intolerances, health, or for family and friends. Luckily, we have more options than ever in Alberta for bakeries
focusing on their needs. As president and owner of Calgary’s Care Bakery (carebakery.com), Kerry Bennett has been thinking about gluten for a long time. “It was 2007 when I started cooking school… right after I had discovered that I couldn’t eat gluten. I filled a suitcase with all sorts of obscure flours that I would wheel in along with my knives. I would stay late and experiment, and try things out with my baking instructor. We were finding great success, so I applied for a research grant after I graduated, and it was the first culinary research grant that SAIT awarded.” For many gluten-free bakers,
Rio Vida, Gluten-Free Bakery
Kerry Bennet, Care Bakery
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the process is one of creating a niche, and learning on the job. “The day we opened was my first day working in a bakery, and I owned the place,” Bennett laughs. “We worked a long time to bring down the number of ingredients, and to keep it to pronounceable ingredients. It can be tricky, but I think it’s a healthier way to eat,” she says. As for home chefs, Bennett has some tips too. “You can create your own flour blends, but there are great ones available, so you can dive in pretty easily. We always ate dinner as a family, and I wanted to make sure no one felt left out - I like to share food.” For Stephen and Ruth Fletcher-Beck, co-founders of Mountain Rhino Gluten-Free Artisan Foods in Calgary (mountainrhinodonuts.com), getting into gluten-free was a complete accident. “My husband wanted to be a weekend warrior selling yeast doughnuts at markets,” says Ruth. “When that took off and we were making doughnuts full time, there were more and more people at markets asking for gluten-free, so we started trying out recipes. We didn’t know what we shouldn’t be able to do, so we did it!” “We have a lot of celiacs that are thrilled to eat the foods they remember and have them taste the way they remember,” she shares. Presently, the only treatment for those with celiac disease is a gluten-free diet, so bakeries like Mountain Rhino are extremely
important to them, and the Fletcher-Becks understand why: “After being told that there is something you can’t have for so long, it’s amazing being told that there is something delicious for you.” It was understanding this frustration that first brought Lee-Anne Neufeld to start Edmonton’s Celebrate GlutenFree (celebrateglutenfree.com). “When I was diagnosed with celiac disease in 1992 there were very few options to buy gluten-free and what there was, did not have much taste and texture. I did like to bake before but this was a whole new challenge, even access to gluten-free flours was difficult. I ate a lot of rice cakes!” Neufeld is happy to see more and more bakeries and home bakers dabbling and trying it for themselves now. “Glutenfree baking definitely has its challenges,” she cautions. “Recipes that contain yeast require patience and persistence. You may have intended to make a loaf of bread, but it might become breadcrumbs for your next batch of meatloaf.” As if the challenges of baking glutenfree are not enough, Edmonton’s Food In the NūD (foodinthenud.ca) has the additional challenge of being a whole food bakery, which means they don’t use any refined sugars, flours or oils. “I started this because my son and I had food intolerances,” says owner and food alchemist, Chrysta Morkeberg.
“Even though I am eating gluten-free doesn’t mean it was healthy, so I started researching into different flours and sweeteners.” Having been on both ends of dietary restrictions, Morkeberg knows how powerful it can be to find a bakery that works for you. “I have had people cry, I have had naturopaths work with us, and I find it really rewarding, You come in and we get into discussions about health issues, it’s like walking into a friend’s kitchen.” Proving that no two stories are quite alike, Najah Shtay is the owner of Rio Vida Gluten-Free Bakery in Edmonton (riovidaglutenfree.ca) and brings her passion from her home country. “I was born in Brazil, so I thought about bringing some of my culture to my baking,” she says. Like many glutenfree bakers, her story started with her own health concerns, and she adds: “Never give up learning your food, it’s so important that celiac or gluten-sensitive individuals should always incorporate legumes, fruits and vegetables, fibre and protein.” Shtay is happy to see the quality of alternatives, and bakeries like hers bringing passion to this niche. “Everything here is made from scratch, and we love using local ingredients since Alberta and Saskatchewan have such great products right in our backyard.”
Whether you need to cut out gluten entirely, or be more inclusive for friends with dietary restrictions, it’s now easier than ever to find quality gluten-free baking. Although all these bakers were eager to have home chefs experiment for themselves, for now we’ll let these experts do the hard work while we enjoy a cinnamon bun.
Eager to try new things, Dan balances his love of cooking with his love of eating, and can be found scouring the city for new restaurants and recipes to share.
Along with these gluten-free bakeries, also check out: Kinnikinnick, Edmonton kinnikinnick.com Totally Gluten-Free, Lacombe totallyglutenfree.ca Miss P’s Gluten Free, Calgary misspsglutenfree.com Lakeview Bakery, Calgary lakeviewbakerycalgary.com Earth’s Oven, Calgary earthsoven.com Cookie Mama, Calgary cookiemamacalgary.com Baked Doughnuts, Calgary bakedbrands.ca
Mountain Rhino, tasty treats
Edmonton’s Food In the NūD September 2020 | Culinaire 21
cheese
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BY CANDACE HIEBERT PHOTOGRAPHY BY DONG KIM
A
s small businesses and local economies shift and settle, we’re continuing to highlight and support our Canadian producers. Far from a sacrifice, it’s an exciting opportunity to explore new flavours and takes on old favourites too!
Tiger Blue, BC - This powerful, richly veined blue from Poplar Grove Cheese, is creamy and salty. Eat out of hand with a luscious Alberta-made fruit wine. Frère Jacques (lactose free), Quebec - A firm, mild cheese with a chewy texture, this could be the star of your next gourmet grilled cheese. Fig And Walnut Wine Preserve, BC - Figs are blended with fortified walnut wine, from green walnuts grown onsite. Enjoy with sharp blue cheeses. Salty Date & Almond Raincoast Crisps, BC - Sweet and salty crisps are the perfect vehicle for soft, rich cheeses. Try with Benedictine Blue or Ruckles. Oxford Street Buffalo Gouda, Ontario - This buffalo milk Gouda is grassy, buttery, and slightly sweet. Try as an addition to a raclette party! Wildly Mustard, Ontario - Add some zing to your next cheese/charcuterie board with this grainy artisanal mustard from the Wildly Delicious Preserve Co. Benedictine Blue, Quebec - Creamy, sweet, with notes of forest and mushrooms, this blue tastes like a Canadian fall. Eat with pear or apple. 9-Year Old Cheddar (unpasteurized), Canada - Sharp and complex, this cheese makes an impact. Serve with fall fruit desserts - apple crumble or pear tart. Ruckles, BC - Marinated in grapeseed oil and fresh garlic, rosemary, and thyme, this Salt Spring Island goat cheese is perfect spread on a hot, fresh baguette. Spicy Wild Blueberry Jelly, Ontario - Sweet and spicy jelly from wild blueberries - delicious with any cheese or licked straight off the spoon! Alpindon (unpasteurized), BC - A firm, mild cheese with earthy notes and creamy texture. Made on-farm, with milk from a single organic herd. Monterey Jack Habanero with Cracked Black Pepper Manitoba - Habanero with black pepper gives this semi-
hard cheese a layered heat. Spice up your burger with this fiery Bothwell Cheese! Many thanks to Springbank Cheese who provided this beautiful cheeseboard for photography.
Candace is passionate about food—eating it, making it, and writing about it—and is up to try any and all new culinary experiences, especially with friends.
September 2020 | Culinaire 23
AMPLIFYING OUR DIVERSE VOICES: Creating A More Inclusive Culinary Community BY CARMEN CHENG
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ver the past few months, there has been a global awakening for racial injustice sparked by the deaths of Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and George Floyd. The Black Lives Matter movement has caused many of us to reflect on the practices within our own organizations and circles. Heather Campbell, co-chair of Alberta’s Anti-Racism Advisory Council who provide advice to the to the Alberta government on combatting racism, says this of the movement, “At this extraordinary time, as we experience a historic social justice movement, there is vital work to be done by Alberta’s Anti-Racism Advisory Council. As a
24 Culinaire | September 2020
co-chair, I call on people across Alberta to listen and to act. Racism has always existed in Alberta, and sadly it continues to exist today. The issue of racism belongs to every Albertan and we must all work to address it. Albertans need to call out and name racism each and every time it occurs, making it their active business, everyday. Only then will our province thrive and experience real, resilient, and lasting prosperity.” The culinary world is also experiencing a reckoning, as stories about racism, mistreatment, and harassment from employees and consumers are more widely shared online. Accusations from staff have resulted in the resignation of two
well-known food media editors – Adam Rapoport, Editor in Chief of Bon Appetit, and Peter Meehan, Food Editor of LA Times. The recently published Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants list has also been criticized for its lack of diversity in winning restaurants and on the judging panel. Bringing this closer to home, how does racism show up in Alberta’s culinary scene and what can we collectively do to create an inclusive environment for all who are a part of the industry? With the enormity of this question, we enlisted some help by bringing together a group of chefs, restaurateurs, managers, and culinary educators for an enlightening virtual discussion.
The robust discussion spanned a multitude of topics, including the lack of representation in the industry, stereotypes of cuisine from different cultures, and culinary ownership of dishes and ingredients. We heard personal experiences from people who had faced derogatory or racist comments from coworkers and customers. We also discussed the role we each hold in shaping the future of this industry. The hospitality and culinary world is fuelled by people who are passionate about creating amazing experiences for others. However, when biases or issues are passed down from one generation of employees to the next, problematic behaviour can often become the culture, and there are significant practices within the industry that require improvement. A cook or server who witnesses harassment or a racial slur thrown out carelessly, and sees their coworkers and managers laugh it off and tolerate these acts, learns that the behaviour is acceptable and normalized. Chef Mike Provo is a Halifax-born Canadian with Jamaican and African heritage. Chef Provo has been cooking for over 20 years. “After putting in my time and rising up through the ranks to become a chef, I was told to ‘go back to Africa’ because the person didn’t want to converse with me. I didn’t freak out, I sent an email to the appropriate people, but not a thing was done about it,” he says. Complacency in response is one reason why employees may not bring their concerns forward, as well as a fear of not fitting in. When there’s already a lack of diversity in industry workers, the issue of being accepted is even more prominent. Although Alberta’s range of restaurants and cuisine is vast and spanning different cultures, the folks we talked with agreed that lack of representation is still an issue in most mainstream restaurants, particularly in upper levels of management. Being part of the in-group can present more opportunities in the form of recognition, progression, invitations to participate in events, and recently, even television opportunities. Homogeneity results in a
lack of diversity in thought and opinion. Similarly, stereotypes made by customers can have a domino effect on how businesses are run and the opportunities afforded to black, indigenous, and people of colour (BIPOC) chefs and business owners. Chef Billy Alexander, Executive Chef and Culinary Advisor for Caldwell First Nation is well known as a leader and consultant in indigenous cuisine. “When I first came to Calgary, there was nobody doing indigenous cuisine. When I started cooking indigenous food there was a misconception that it was just for indigenous people. When you start to specialize in your own culture and your own food, people think you’re only cooking it for your own people. Unfortunately, that makes it difficult to stay in business, you need everybody to want to be interested in your cuisine,” says Alexander. In our discussion, we heard about stereotypes that restaurateurs and chefs often face, from BIPOC female restaurant owners having to address suppliers or customers who expected to see a white male in her position, or BIPOC chefs who are expected to cook solely food from within their own heritage. “There’s a stereotype that if customers walk into a fried chicken place, it makes sense that I’m cooking, but if I were a chef at a high-end French restaurant it would be a bit confusing for some people. However, many of us go through training and have developed skills in different cuisines,” says Chef Provo. A perception has developed over time where cuisines from many ethic cultures are deemed less valuable than European-centric restaurants. The perception of value often results in BIPOC owned businesses settling in areas and neighbourhoods where it is less costly to operate, resulting in a segregation of culinary cultures. For example, there’s an accepted belief that dining out at restaurants that focus on Chinese, Vietnamese, Indian, Mexican, or Caribbean food should be less expensive than eating at French or Italian restaurants.
“
ALBERTANS NEED TO CALL OUT AND NAME RACISM EACH AND EVERY TIME IT OCCURS, MAKING IT THEIR ACTIVE BUSINESS, EVERYDAY.” September 2020 | Culinaire 25
“
WE ALL HAVE A ROLE IN CHANGING THE CULTURE WITHIN OUR OWN SPHERE OF INFLUENCE. WE HAVE A ROLE IN HOW WE TRAIN AND EDUCATE PEOPLE IN OUR INDUSTRY.”
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Customer expectations can be limiting for businesses, affecting decisions on pricing, menu choices, locations, and whether a business invests in the design or décor of their space. Judith Kwong is the General Manager at Sukiyaki House, a Japanese restaurant owned by her family. “Many people often expect Asian food to be cheap, but high-quality sushi is not cheap to source,” explains Kwong. “Yet we have a difficult time sourcing premium quality fish without getting complaints from customers that they feel the price is too high.” The value placed on a dining experience also spans to criteria for awards and accolades. In North America, a certain type of ambiance, service, and even beverage list is expected from “best” restaurants. By contrast, in Asian countries, value is perceived differently and Michelin stars are given to a variety of dining experiences, including street food vendors. Amidst all of this, the awakening to racism and employment practices has generated awareness for the issues that can lead to a conscious effort to make changes. Customers, food media, suppliers, restaurant owners, and employees can change the culture and issues in this industry. To start, we can collectively work to bolster lesser known businesses and BIPOC talent. Food media and event organizers can highlight more restaurants and chefs across different parts of our cities that are not as well known in mainstream media. Often culinary events promote well-known chefs from out-of-town, and while this can bring excitement to the culinary scene and meet customer demand in today’s celebrity-focused world, it would also be a great opportunity to highlight local, underrated chefs, so diners gain more awareness for the diverse talent in our communities. Blair Lebsack and Caitlin Fulton, partners of Edmonton’s RGE RD and the soon to be open, The Butchery, responded to the anti-racism
movement by declaring that they would assess event requests to ensure that there is diversity and gender equality in representation of talent and compensation before committing their attendance. Fulton explains their driver, “A huge part of our success has been due to our inclusion in certain media ‘best of ’ lists, and events we’ve been invited to participate in. By continuing to blindly say “yes” to systems that actively exclude or marginalize diverse voices, tastes and flavours, means we’d continue to be complicit. We have a very diverse team and we’ve always had women in leadership roles, but that doesn’t exempt us from the very painful processes of grappling with patriarchy and white supremacy. When we collaborate with chefs that come from non-familiar (to us) culinary traditions, we learn more, have more engagement from the team, and the results are simply more delicious.” Chefs and restaurateurs with local or international popularity would be able to amplify diverse voices by promoting or lending their platform to chefs who may be unfamiliar to diners through guest chef-ing or collaboration opportunities. Each of us can take steps to demand a more inclusive food community. As diners we need to reflect on our own biases and harmful stereotypes that we may hold, try a cuisine from a culture that is unfamiliar to us, and consciously support businesses that are diverse and embody inclusive practices. Educators of up and coming talent in the hospitality industry could evaluate and diversify the techniques and cuisine taught in learning programs. Phoebe Fung, proprietor of Vin Room and VR Wine sums this up well, “We all have a role in changing the culture within our own sphere of influence. We have a role in how we train and educate people who are coming into our industry. There are opportunities for us to change the path that we are on.”
Sweet and Bitter:
The Negroni
1
BY LINDA GARSON
part gin, 1 part Campari, and 1 part sweet vermouth, stirred with ice until well-chilled, strained into a rocks glass filled with large ice cubes, and garnished with orange peel or a slice of orange. What could be easier? And what could be easier to remember than 1:1:1? And what could be more delicious for discerning cocktail lovers who look for a balance of sweet and bitter together in their glass? So where did this all start? We all know those times when our regular tipple just isn’t enough for the day we’ve had, and that was the case for Italian Count Camillo Negroni when he arrived at his favourite café in Florence in 1919, and asked his friend and bartender,
Fosco Scarselli, for a stronger version of his regular Americano - a mix of Campari, sweet vermouth, and soda water, known as a Milano-Torino, or Mi-To. Scarselli swapped out the soda for gin, and shazam! The Negroni was born. With fans such as Ernest Hemingway, and the late Anthony Bourdain, who often made them for his film crew while on the road, the Negroni is one of the world’s classic cocktails – and now some Canadian distilleries have made it even easier for us, and produced pre-mixed and ready to drink Negroni! Negroni Week, a fundraiser for the hospitality industry, has been rescheduled for September 14-20 as a virtual event while bars and restaurants are restricted in their hours and capacity.
2 1 3 Here are three to try:
Classic Negroni, Park Distillery, Banff Made with Park’s Alpine Dry Gin, this limited edition Classic Negroni has spent time lounging around in oak barrels for the ingredients to marry together, producing a full and rounded cocktail with deep and rich, orange-forward flavours. A contemplative cocktail. 375 mL 28% ABV, $35 at the distillery or online at parkdistillery.com
Craft Negroni Confluence Distillery, Calgary Calgary’s Confluence Distillery created a special gin with grapefruit and added a little chilli spice for their Craft Negroni. The result is a dangerously easy-to-drink cocktail with a medium body, and slightly bitter citrus high notes complementing the sweet flavours in the vermouth, and a warmth that follows a few seconds later. 375 mL 22% ABV, $33 at the distillery or online at confluencedistilling.ca/shop
The Professor’s Negroni, Dillon’s Small Batch Distillery, Beamsville, Ontario Dillon’s, from Beamsville in Ontario, produced their Professor’s Negroni from their Dry Gin 7, blended with sweet vermouth and their Professor Dillon’s aperitivo liqueur instead of Campari. The result is a lighter coloured cocktail with a slightly oily mouth-feel, and fruity notes of strawberries and sweet orange. Serve chilled. 187 mL, 18.4% ABV, CSPC +818187 $10-$12
September 2020 | Culinaire 27
Step By Step:
Nut Butters STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
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here’s something quite satisfying about making your own kitchen staples, and for me, made-from-scratch nut butter is near the top of the list, alongside bread and ice cream. Homemade nut butter tastes so much better than the stuff from the grocery store. It’s thick and creamy, and you can customize it with flavours you really love together. While you might think that you can just add some nuts to the food processor and away you go, there is a little bit of a process to ensure nut butter success. First, it’s best to start with raw, unsalted nuts such as almonds, peanuts, cashews, and hazelnuts. For toastier flavour, you’ll want to roast them a little bit first, and in the case of hazelnuts, be sure to slough them out of their skins. Sure, you can buy roasted and salted nuts, but it’s better to roast them yourself, so you can control how toasty they get, and how much salt you add. If you want super creamy nut butter, purchase nuts without skins, such as whole blanched almonds. I’m not 28 Culinaire | September 2020
particularly picky about this so I go the raw almond route, but it’s another option to be aware of. Cashews produce the creamiest nut butter, and can be used in combination with either almonds or peanuts for a super creamy, super delicious version. A good nut butter needs a little help from fat for emulsification. I like to use extra virgin coconut oil, but almond oil or unrefined peanut oil would work as well. A food processor, or high-powered blender is your key piece of equipment here, and given that the nuts have to be processed for about 10 minutes, there is a possibility that the machine could burn out, especially if it’s on the older side. Taking five minute breaks here and there will help with this. As the nuts are processed, you’ll see a change in consistency from crumbs, to big clumps, to a large ball. It might seem odd, but as the oil is released from the nuts, the mixture will smooth itself out. The flavour add-ins are the best thing about making your own nut butter. When you’ve reached the desired consistency, blend in sweeteners such as honey or maple syrup, or spice things up with
cinnamon, cardamom, even cayenne pepper. Adjust the salt to your liking, and don’t forget about adding a small splash of pure vanilla extract or lemon zest. These nut butters taste so good that you’ll likely finish them up in no time, but they will keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Cinnamon Honey Almond Butter 2 cups raw almonds ¼ tsp salt 3-4 Tbs (45-60 mL) extra virgin coconut oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp pure vanilla extract 1. Preheat the oven to 350º F. Spread the almonds on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes, stirring halfway through. Let them cool until they’re just warm, about 10 minutes. 2. Transfer to a food processor fitted with a metal blade, and process for 1-3 minutes, until crumbs form. Let the machine rest for 5 minutes, which allows
Chocolate Peanut Butter Spread
Cinnamon Honey Almond Butter
the nuts to cool down too. 3. Add the salt and 1 Tbs (15 mL) of the oil, process for another 5-7 minutes, until the almond butter is smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of the food processor as needed. The mixture will be clumpy, then form a ball, and eventually turn creamy. 4. Once the almond butter is smooth, turn off the machine and let it rest for 5 minutes, allowing the mixture to cool down. Add the honey, cinnamon, and vanilla. Blend until fully incorporated. If the mixture gets thick again, then add another 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) of coconut oil. Let the almond butter cool down to room temperature, then transfer to a jar and screw on the lid. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Makes 1½ cups.
Chocolate Peanut Butter Spread This is for the peanut butter and chocolate lovers out there. I like to slather this spread on toast - with or without slices of banana, and stir it into oatmeal. Eating it by the spoonful right out of the jar tastes great too! The only sweeteners are Medjool dates and a bit of honey, though you could use maple syrup, too. This spread is not very sweet - you can adjust the sweetness to your liking. 2 cups raw unsalted peanuts 6 Tbs unsweetened cocoa powder 8 Medjool dates, pits removed 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) canola oil 2-3 tsp (10-15 mL) honey or maple syrup ¼ tsp salt
1. Preheat the oven to 350º F. Add the peanuts to a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. 2. Add all the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Process until smooth, about 5 minutes, scraping down the bowl occasionally. Add more honey for sweetness. Scoop the spread into an airtight container. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Makes 1 1/3 cups.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.
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Laplandia Espresso Vodka, Finland I love my coffee, but don’t drink a lot of coffee-infused beverages - so there is a tendency to be very critical with these products. This was surprisingly good, with clean, balanced coffee flavours, and without too much bitterness, though a touch of sweetness shows on the palate. Well-crafted and quite tasty. CSPC +829854 About $40
Tumbler & Rocks Daiquiri The Fort Distillery, Alberta It’s a long way from the small town of Daiquiri, in Cuba, to Fort Saskatchewan, but The Fort Distillery have brought them closer with their new Tumbler & Rocks Daiquiri craft cocktail in handy 100 mL (purse and pocket size?) glass bottles. Just Alberta-distilled cane spirit, lime and sugar make this tart and refreshing, mouthwatering sipper – shake and pour over ice! CSPC +836601 $6-$7
W
e’re never quite sure what to expect of the weather in September; the dog days of summer are past but in Alberta we’re lucky to still have warm days and light evenings, even if a little cooler - although we’re sure you can remember the snowstorm of September 10th a few years ago! But we’re optimists, and this issue we’re extending our summer drinks and revelling in delicious white spirits.
Laplandia Lingonberry Vodka, Finland A rather uncommon berry to Canadians, Lingonberry is well suited to preserves and a few other delicacies, such as vodka. Quite tart with a little sweetness, the flavours are a bit like raspberries and tart cherries with a zesty acidic kick. Lots of versatility here for mixed drinks. CSPC +828566 About $40
Wild Life Distillery Rundle Bar Gin, Alberta This gin is a gorgeous deep violet colour – no, wait, it’s bright blue! Canmore’s Wild Life have infused butterfly pea flowers in their gin for Fairmont Banff Springs’ Rundle Bar, so add ice and it turns blue, add tonic and it’s a regal purple. Meant for cocktails, it’s a gin that makes you feel special, and we suspect it will be high on everyone’s gift wish list this year! CSPC +836497 $59
Two Rivers Distillery Jalapeno Vodka, Alberta The glacial fed waters of the Bow and Elbow are the base of Two Rivers Distillery’s triple distilled single malt vodka, into which they macerate fresh, sliced jalapenos and then filter it to clear – but don’t be frightened by that, there’s exactly right amount of heat and warmth for a terrific dirty martini with a couple of olives (hold the vermouth!) or an easy Caesar! CSPC + 833792 $48 30 Culinaire | September 2020
Masahiro Okinawa Recipe 01 Gin, Japan Japanese gins are taking the world by storm and often skirting the two extremes between traditional or contemporary examples from Europe and North America. Remarkably floral and spicy, with subdued juniper notes and a rich juiciness akin to mandarin oranges on the nose, this would work well in a gin martini or with a splash of tonic and garnished with lime. CSPC +808730 $70
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Spice it Up
C
Carrot Cake BY MALLORY FRAYN
arrot cake: it’s a comfort food and it works for so many reasons. Carrots help to ensure that you’re never eating dry cake; warm spices in the batter warm the soul; and cream cheese makes for a frosting that is both decadent and nostalgic at the same time. All things considered, carrot cake recipes shouldn’t be tweaked too much because otherwise they can stray too far from the tried and true formula that so many of us know and love. So, if you’re looking to spice up your carrot cake, but still make it just like grandma used to, these adjustments can modernize classic recipes without straying too far from the originals.
all for taking our liberties with tradition. Other sweet root vegetables can be substituted in, just fine. Take beets for example, which can be grated in and add a beautiful, magenta colour to the finished cake. Quick tip: to help fix the colour of the beets, mix them with a bit of crushed vitamin C (one tablet will do, just pulverize it and stir it into the shredded beets so they stay “beet” red). Shredded parsnips can also be subbed in for carrots, or mixed half and half to maintain the cake’s orange colour and milder flavour. Along with the shredded veg, it doesn’t hurt to add some shredded fruit into the mix either. Just stick with apples and pears, substituted for up to half of the carrots, as not to add too much moisture to the batter and require adjustments to other aspects of the recipe.
The vegetables (and fruits)
The bits and bobs Carrot cake is almost one of those desserts that when loaded with enough
As the name suggests, carrot cake wouldn’t be carrot cake without carrots, however we’re
32 Culinaire | September 2020
accoutrements, it becomes nutritionally balanced enough to justify eating for breakfast or any other meal. Even if health isn’t your primary focus, most carrot cake recipes benefit from some combination of add-ins. Nuts and seeds like pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, walnuts, and pecans, are always welcome stirred into the batter. The same goes for dried fruit from standard raisins, to dried sour cherries, chopped dates, figs, and candied pineapple. Shredded coconut? Yes please. Oats? Absolutely. Within reason, pretty much anything goes. The icing/frosting
Whether you call it icing or frosting, a sweetened mix of cream cheese and butter is the proverbial icing on the cake when it comes to classic carrot cake. While there’s absolutely nothing wrong with this recipe, plenty of other
dairy (and non-dairy) products can be made to work too. Mascarpone is the Italian substitute that has a higher milk fat content than standard cream cheese and is thus much more rich. Alternately, cream cheese or mascarpone can be cut with yogurt for added tang with less fat. Plus, what you stir into your frosting is just as important as the base. Take standard cream cheese, the perfect, blank canvas for various flavours and colours. If you elected to grate beets into your batter in step one, mix a few drops of beet juice into your icing. Want that bright pink colour without the earthy taste of beet juice? Stir in pomegranate juice.
The spices Characteristic of carrot cake are the warm, sweet spices that help to make this dessert as comforting as it is. Cinnamon is a staple in most recipes, as well as the usual “pumpkin spice” culprits like nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and allspice. While these are all fantastic options that you can’t go wrong with, you can also get a bit more creative. A liberal dose of freshly cracked black pepper never goes amiss in combination with the aforementioned spices. Or, you can take a different approach entirely and opt for more savoury spices and blends. Curry powder, used sparingly, can complement the sweetness of carrots beautifully and add a spicy spin. You can also grind up smoky dried chills (minus the seeds) like ancho, pasilla, and mulato, and add them in for heat, yes, but also a rich, jammy note that will add depth to
Our 6-course pairing dinners are small groups now to ensure your safety, and you’ll only be seated with the people you book with. Please check our website regularly for new dates! Vine & Dine at Purlieu Bistro September 15, 20, and 30. All our evenings here sold out last year and we were impressed with the superb dishes created from local ingredients.
your cake. Or, whisk Japanese miso (white or dark) into your batter for that sweet, salty, savoury “je ne sais quoi”. The format While the ideal format for carrot cake might be a standard layer cake, with three, alternating layers of cake and cream cheese to ensure that each bite contains enough icing, it’s not the only format to go with. Feeding a crowd? Bake off your carrot cake in a standard 9x13” Pyrex and smear icing over the top once cooled. Feeding a
A One-Off Special Dinner at Soleil Bistro September 21. Including the kobe beef of pork – mangalitsa, and a special guest to tell us stories of them! Vine & Dine at Escoba October 3, 16, and 23. One of our most popular locations for the last 12 years! Watch for new dinners coming at The Guild and Modern Steak! And the rescheduled CULINARY TREASURE HUNT, modified to keep you safe, is September 12! Register at culinairemagazine.ca/treasure-hunt
crowd and want to be a bit fancier about it? Bake off your carrot cake on a sheet tray, ice it, roll it up, and voila, you’ve got yourself a carrot cake roulade. Want individual servings? Cupcakes it is. Or, if you’d like to ditch the forks altogether, make carrot cake whoopie pies, sandwiched with cream cheese icing.
Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Follow Mallory @cuzilikechoclat, and check out her blog, becauseilikechocolate.com.
Paired Dinner Packages Everyone is loving our series of high quality, multi-course, paired takeout dinner packages with videos. We’ve arranged curbside pick up on designated days each week. New dinner packages for autumn! Italian from Scarpetta, gluten-free from Heaven, a taco dinner package from Takori, brand new dinners from Escoba Bistro and Safari Grill and many more! For full details and to reserve your packages, places, or private pairing dinner, visit culinairemagazine.ca/events.
September 2020 | Culinaire 33
Here are a few Alberta gins with unique character:
The Rise and Fall and Rise of Gin
Copper Cork Distillery Rhuby Gin, Vermilion Ochre colour, sweet, with a berry-rhubarb flavour. CSPC +828150, $38
BY DAVID NUTTALL
“Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine.”
G
- Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart) in Casablanca (1942).
in had its beginnings as a medieval medicinal remedy in several cultures that had established distilling practices and had access to juniper berries. Eventually, it reached northern Europe where “Genever” became popularized by the Dutch in the 13th century. The word itself is an English shortening of the Dutch word for juniper. Through the late 1500s, British troops fighting against the Spanish in the Dutch War of Independence found the juniper-flavoured spirit they drank gave them what was called “Dutch courage” in battle. In 1688, Dutch Protestant William of Orange and his English wife Mary became co-rulers of England after
the “Glorious Revolution” drove James II from the throne, and he proceeded to inhibit the importation of brandy and wine from Catholic countries by attaching high tariffs and taxes to the products. To fill this void, he abolished taxes and licensing fees for grain spirits such as gin and, by the early 1700s, London had become the gin-producing capital of the world. With the British Navy exporting gin around the globe to help suppress the bitterness of the quinine-containing tonic water they drank to prevent malaria in foreign outposts, one of the earliest and most famous mixed drinks was born. By 1850, the less sweet London Dry had become the most popular style of gin. continued on page 36
34 Culinaire | September 2020
Troubled Monk Epitaph Blue Gin, Red Deer Light, floral violet notes and a dark blue colour. CSPC +819966, $45
Wild Life Distillery Barrel-aged Gin, Canmore Bourbon meets gin with a light amber colour. CSPC +812647, $56
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In Europe and the Americas, for much of the 18th through to the first half of the 20th century, gin was the most consumed spirit (whether produced legitimately or not). Because distilling was not the refined process it is today (and illegal production was close to undrinkable straight up), gin was more palatable than vodka and moonshine because the juniper flavour helped mask the harsh unpleasantness of low-grade grain spirits. Of course, cheap and plentiful alcohol has a way of creating, shall we say, a less sober population, and gin began to earn its reputation as the drink for “gin-soaked” drunks. Its relative ease of production made it the illegal liquor of choice during Prohibition, leading to the development of “bathtub” gins drunk in “gin-mills” and “gin-joints” or other disreputable bars and speakeasies. It maintained its following legally after the repeal of Prohibition, primarily because it requires no aging, unlike whiskies and rums.
gins available grew from around 120 in 2014 to over 500 today, with more than 50 regular lines produced in Alberta alone (not counting special editions). While vodka is still king of the white spirit category, gin is closing in on white rum for second, and has the largest growth of all three over the past few years. It is a long way from its glory days, but gin’s popularity is trending up. Gin’s uniqueness comes from the mixture of botanicals and spices introduced into its juniper-infused grain spirit base. Distillers and master blenders can add ingredients based on recipe requirements, price, availability, locality, or even whimsy. Alberta distillers will often highlight native plants, but they will also blend in foreign elements or create a combination of both, allowing for an infinite variety of possibilities. Also, unlike vodka, gin is usually redistilled after being infused with these ingredients, leading to a crisper, higher quality spirit.
Tippa’s Wood Duck Oaked Gin, Okotoks Light amber colour, with subtle tannins from French Oak. CSPC +815220, $48
Strathcona Spirits Pinot Gin, Edmonton Aging in French and American white oak Pinot Noir casks produces pear, apricot, and plum flavours and a pink salmon colour. CSPC +828395, $60
As the new millennium arrived, craft distilleries brought gin back as the favourite base spirit for experimentations As distillation processes improved, by post World War II, vodka had become the liquor of choice, thanks to its flavourless qualities and versatility in mixed drinks. The next 60 years saw gin sales plummet as vodka and unaged white rum sales soared. However, as the new millennium arrived, craft distilleries brought gin back as the favourite base spirit for experimentations. As the cocktail enjoyed a rebirth in popularity, the exciting options provided by gin saw a resurrection in its sales. In Alberta, where craft distilleries only arrived in the 2010s, the number of 36 Culinaire | September 2020
Most gin made today is a variant of the London Dry style; clear, less sweet, full of juniper flavour, with a tinge of the botanical additions. However, in the past few years, gin has pushed the boundaries of its own definition, resulting in colourful variants, many of which only hint to the classics of yore, and barely pay a passing nod to its juniper roots.
Eau Claire Saskatoon Honey Gin, Turner Valley Yellow colour, sweet, and full of honey aroma and flavour. CSPC +833379, $60
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow David on Twitter @abfbrewed.
Also look for citrus gins, ones made with local berries, and seasonal releases.
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MAKING THE CASE
Back to Local By TOM FIRTH
A
year in transition, 2020 has become in part, a year to reevaluate many of our habits and activities. Was this the year you got in shape? Spent less time shopping and more time with friends and family (in a responsible fashion of course)? Maybe you resolved to direct more of your discretionary dollars to businesses in your community. While Alberta doesn’t have a suitable climate for growing grapes, many high quality wines are made across Canada, and if we can’t get our wine fix locally, supporting the True North Strong and Free with your wine dollars makes good sense. Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Foreign Affair 2015 Apologetic Red Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
An Ontario cabernet franc made with slightly dried grapes (the appassimento method) akin to the famous wine of Italy – amarone – sure, sign me up. Deeply coloured with a slightly russet tone, aromas have some raisin characters with brambly, cherry jelly fruits. Flavours are rich and slightly sweet with good balance throughout. A little weird, but very tasty. CSPC +809500 $65-70
Mission Hill 2019 Reserve Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Sourced from fruit around Osoyoos and Oliver, this rosé will help cool you down on the deck or patio. Quite dry but not bone dry, it shows cotton candy and raspberry with mild herb and mint leaf characters. Pretty smashable, it works with lighter or grilled fish, poultry, or salty snacks. CSPC +814460 About $16-19
Black Hills 2018 Nota Bene, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
20 years of Nota Bene… I’ve been fortunate enough to taste every vintage; not only is it an excellent barometer of quality in the Okanagan, but it’s also a treat to enjoy. This year’s release seems a little “quieter” than many of the previous releases, perhaps a little softer too, but on the back palate, a core of pure steel emerges with tightly wound tannins, deep, earthy notes and floral tones that should evolve so well over the years – as always. Perhaps one of my favourite vintages of Nota Bene so far. CSPC +708073 $67-70
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.
38 Culinaire | September 2020
Foreign Affair 2016 The Conspiracy Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
A classic Bordeaux blend of mostly cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, showing slightly cooler climate expressions with tar and cedar, spice and cherry aromas. In the mouth, big and almost chewy tannins are well supported by plenty of fruit and weight. Easily pairs with classic barbecue fare or perhaps braised brisket or pulled pork sandwiches. CSPC +769631 Around $20-23
Indigenous World Winery 2018 Hee-Hee-Tel-Kin White Blend Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Hester Creek 2017 “Selected Barrels” Cabernet Merlot, Okanagan Valley British Columbia
CSPC +821613 About $20-23
CSPC +524678 $25-27
An unusual blend of gewürztraminer, pinot auxerrois, and pinot gris, you are going to see a bit of sweetness here but still well restrained. The best part is the abundance of ripe, tropical fruit with a pleasing tanginess and refreshing quality. Serve cool on a hot Friday afternoon.
Henry of Pelham 2017 Speck Family Reserve Baco Noir, Ontario
Deep and inky in the glass with more than a little charred earth and smoke. The Speck Family Reserve tier has more rigorous selections, but also lower yields and longer maturations. Quite spicy on the palate with a rich, almost resinous smoky character. This would sing equally well with game meats or charcuterie.
Indigenous World Winery 2017 Hee-Hee-Tel-Kin Red Blend Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Made from both cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc with merlot, this is a classically styled red blend with cedar, cherries, and bell pepper, coupled with enough oak to mellow things out a little. Fairly versatile for food, I’d recommend drinking it in its youth to preserve the brightness. Pair with seared meats or ribs.
Quite new to our market, the Hee-Hee-TelKin is a meritage style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. Generous fruits show up on the nose with mild spiciness. Palate-wise, look for a clean, open expression with relatively soft tannins. Not too complex, but very agreeable for those cool evenings.
Mission Hill 2017 Vista’s Edge Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Henry of Pelham 2018 Baco Noir Ontario
CSPC +821614 About $26-28
Another stunning cabernet franc to tempt our wine drinking dollars. Floral and rich with plum and lavender, cherry, spices, pencil shavings, and strawberries. Very well balanced and a fine example of the direction this wonderful grape is going in the Okanagan.
Smoky and rich with plum and raspberry fruits, supported by ginger and liquorice root on the nose. Packs a little bit of a kick on the palate with bright acids and a slightly hot profile but balanced well by good fruits. Quite tasty, and would be well suited to any protein rich dish from the grill.
Mill Stone 2018 “Home Block” Pinot Noir, Naramata Bench, British Columbia
Benjamin Bridge Pet Nat Nova Scotia
Black Hills 2018 Cellar Hand Punch Down Red, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
CSPC +834413 Around $60-65
CSPC +803301 About $36-38
CSPC +750649 $24-26
CSPC +461699 $28-30
The new project from Cynthia and David Ens, Mill Stone promises a back to the basics sort of approach after the sale of the Laughing Stock winery – pinot noir, from one spot. Quite light in the glass with delicate fruits recalling cranberry and raspberries, herb and woodsy notes and subtlety. This is an all-star wine to hide in the cellar for a little, or just to share with friends.
CSPC +820138 $35-40
Pétillant Naturel, or Pet Nat, is a very traditional, daresay ancient way of making a lightly sparkling wine. Made from native yeasts, it’s a natural, noninterventionist product, cloudy in the glass and wonderfully expressive. Vanilla and toast-like aromas with bright orange and spice, it’s a living wine that is infinitely refreshing and discussion-worthy. Also available in 250 mL cans for about $13
CSPC +270926 Around $21-23
The epitome of a “smashable” red from the Okanagan, the Cellar Hand Punch Down Red is built around syrah with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and some carmenere. Plump fruit expression with excellent support from tannins and acids, the 2018 has the weight to handle dinner from the grill, but also the generosity and suppleness to simply enjoy for the sake of enjoying a glass of wine.
September 2020 | Culinaire 39
E TC E TE R A . . . Fermented Vegetables
Creative Recipes for Fermenting 64 Vegetables & Herbs in Krauts, Kimchis, Brined Pickles, Chutneys, Relishes & Pastes, by Kirsten and Christopher Shockey, Storey Publishing. Probably the only guide to fermenting you’ll ever need, this book leads you through mastering the basics, with 140 recipes for everything from arugula to zucchini, and also includes recipes using your fermented veggies – Brine and Dine! Think Sauerkraut Strudel, Kimchi Latkes, “dirty” cocktails, and Rhubarb Fool. $40 Sexy AF
Cal & Gary’s
Calgary Co-op has introduced a new and exclusive, private label line of quality products with personality! Cal & Gary’s curated range includes meats and burgers, cut fruit and veggies, salsas and hummus, eggs, baked goods, sauces and mustard, soaps… and a range of snacks that we can’t stop popping. We’re addicted to the crunchy, sweet, and spicy Crowchild Trail Mix. And the quirky “Calgaryisms” on each product show that Co-op is having fun with the new range - and making us smile too! $7
There’s no denying we’re seeing an increasing amount of alcohol-free beverages on offer, and now Alberta has its own brand from local entrepreneur Jo-Anne Reynolds. Complex and fullflavoured, with a smooth and oily, mouthfilling texture, choose from ViirGiin, Triple Sexy, Amar-Oh and Kampari, and mix these botanically infused alcohol-free spirits with soda, tonic, juice, or let your imagination run wild to create your own mocktail. Sugar-free with no artificial favours, kosher and halal. $35
Coco Vodka Original
New into Alberta are these refreshing, sparkling coconut water coolers, Coco Vodka and Coco Rum Original. You can’t miss the sweet coconut aromas as soon as you open the can - they smell and taste like summer! We love coconut water, and we’re enjoying it with the addition of triple-distilled vodka or blended rum, and carbonated filtered water for a 5 percent ABV glugger. Serve well chilled, and start the beach party! 355 mL 4-pack cans, Coco Vodka CSPC +822438 $14 Coco Rum CSPC +822439 $14
Wholly Veggie
Founded by friends working at an organic meat company, Go Veggie is a new range of gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan, and soy-free, frozen meals and snacks. We enjoyed all three flavours of cauliflower crust pizzas as well as the cauliflower and broccoli wings, all ready to bake in the oven - easy and healthy! And kids love them; it’s a great way for them to eat their veggies. A portion of the sale of each product supports Community Food Centres Canada too. Around $6, widely available. 40 Culinaire | September 2020
The Pickled Pantry
150 Recipes for Pickles, Relishes, Chutneys & More, by Andrea Chesman, Storey Publishing. It’s that time of year for making the most of the abundant harvest from your garden, or if you’re a condo dweller – from your local farmers market! Food writer and gardener, Chesman takes us through the various pickling and fermenting processes, and tempts us with not only dozens of delicious-sounding ideas, but also 36 recipes using your pickles. German Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake anyone? $30
O PE N TH AT B OT TLE
...with Lana Turner BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM
“W
hen you go to the wineries and meet the principals and the winemakers, everyone is so passionate about the wine industry. And that’s why I love it so much. It’s not a nine to five job by any means. And I love meeting these people because we share a passion. It’s really remarkable,” says Lana Turner, Category Manager – Wine, for Calgary Co-op Wine Spirits Beer. Born and raised in and around Calgary, the family lived out at Millarville for a while and in Airdrie, where she graduated. Turner took General Studies at college in Camrose, followed by a spell working at her father’s automotive company, but quit when she became pregnant. “And after my baby was born, I went to work just very part-time at Co-op in Customer Service, and I’ve been with Co-op for 32 years,” she laughs. “I was in customer service, then I switched to GUC, which is basically doing everything, cashiering, produce and bakery everything, and then I went back to customer services as a supervisor.” With a couple of friends, Turner took a course in increasing personal effectiveness, which resulted in them going to SAIT together to work towards their marketing and management certificates. From there she transferred to the liquor department at Co-op as a manager. That led to her taking sommelier training, and she achieved her diploma in
42 Culinaire | September 2020
2010. Her course was set – she’d caught the wine bug! A position came open for a product and promotions manager, which she didn’t get the first time she applied, but it came open again when the wine buyer transferred into a different position within Co-op, and Turner moved into the assistant product and promotion manager position. The stars aligned for Turner when her friend and mentor, Remo Marcucci, announced that he would be leaving. “He was doing wine, I was doing spirits and beer,” she says. They switched positions so Marcucci could mentor her for a year and Turner could learn the intricacies of the wine business. “It’s a lot to know, so he was invaluable in training me,” she adds. “I took over the wine [category] about five or six years ago, and have been doing it ever since. I have lots and lots of meetings and I decide what comes into the stores as far as new product listings, and take care of the pricing files. I love it. Wine is absolutely my passion. I can’t imagine dinner without wine or sitting on a patio without wine. It elevates everything. It elevates food, it elevates friendship, it elevates love, it elevates everything.”
And what is the bottle that Turner has been saving for a special occasion, and when will she open it? “Well I want to open it, but what happened was, years ago - probably 11, 12 years ago - when I was managing the Co-op store, me and a friend of mine decided to buy a bottle of 1999 Château d’Yquem together,” she explains. Château d’Yquem only produce Sauternes, a very limited sweet wine from southern Bordeaux made from sauvignon blanc and sémillon grapes, and known for its exceptional longevity. It has been described as the greatest sweet wine in the world, and is one of the world’s most celebrated wineries. A fungus, Botrytis cinerea, or “noble rot”, attacks the grapes and they shrivel to leave such a super high sugar concentration in the juice, that each vine produces only one glass of wine. “We thought it was pretty good deal at the time,” Turner continues. “And we were going to share it together over a real nice dinner, but we’ve since lost touch with each other. I have the bottle sitting in my cellar and I’m saving it because I’m hoping that one day we’ll reconnect and then we can share it together.” Let’s hope her friend is reading this!
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