Culinaire #9.9 (April 2021)

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S A P R I L 2 02 1

Hole-y Delicious | Mighty Mushrooms | Top Chef Canada | Savouring Spring

2 Culinaire | April 2021

April 2021 | Culinaire 3

Leave nothing for your kids.

Except peace of mind.

Being Albertan means we recognize the value of straight talk. It also gives us an edge in understanding your situation, which, in turn, leads to a more personalized service. So, before you make any legacy decisions, partner with one of our wealth experts. You’ll find a refreshingly frank approach. One where we continue to work for your trust by offering great advice and telling it like it is.

atb.com/legacy ATB Wealth consists of a range of financial services provided by ATB Financial and certain of its subsidiaries. ATB Investment Management Inc., ATB Securities Inc., and ATB Insurance Advisors Inc., are individually licensed users of the registered trade name ATB Wealth. ATB Securities Inc. is a member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund and Investment Industry Regulatory Organization of Canada.

contents 12 22

Volume 9 / No. 9 / April 2021

departments 8

Salutes and Shout Outs

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

9

Book Review

10

Off The Menu

12

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Roni’s Kitchen

30

Decadent Brulee’s Whiskey Truffle Torte

Re-setting the Bar: From Public House to Private Residence

40 Etcetera...

28 On Board

What’s new?

Grazeyeg’s Spring charcuterie board

by Linda Garson

42 Open That Bottle

Justin “JD” Darnes of Cocktail Concierge

16

Hole-y Delicious

The humble doughnut never goes out of style

by Gwendolyn Richards

Are fungi the key to a healthy belly and a happy planet?

by Sabrina Kooistra

32 Cool off!

20 Top Chef Season 9:

34 A Year Like No Other

Meet the contestants with Albertan roots

by Mallory Frayn

22 Bringing a New Kind of Pork Many thanks to Larissa Costella of Holy Cow for her delicious and playful doughnut flavours and colours that dress our cover this issue, and to photographer Dong Kim for keeping his fingers off them just long enough to perfectly capture them!

Mushroom:

18 Green With Envy

Lighter and brighter tastes for Spring

by Natalie Findlay

ON THE COVER

30 The Small but Mighty

to the Table

Eh Farms’ cute and curly red Mangalitsa pigs

by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

26 Step By Step: Muffuletta…

to take along on all our outdoor Spring adventures!

by Renée Kohlman

Non-alcoholic beer and Ready to Drink cocktails

by Tom Firth

Let’s continue to support our local services, suppliers, and producers

by David Nuttall

36 April Spirits

…from South Korea, Wales, and Mexico

by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

38 Making The Case:

For solid, good value, white wines

by Tom Firth April 2021 | Culinaire 5

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

I’m loving your emails on our paired take-out dinner packages, thank you!

Time for renewal…

D

o you feel like we might have turned a corner?

It’s 18º C and I’m looking out of my window at a clear blue sky. People are sitting outside the café opposite and drinking coffee, and somehow things feel more optimistic.

My bulbs from last year are starting to open and bloom, and it definitely feels like Spring, although I know only too well that we could get a major dump of snow any time, yet it feels hopeful. Maybe we can even all roam free again very soon.

We’re very much looking forward to our new World Taste Tour on April 10th – have you registered? It’s very different from our annual treasure hunts as we’re not racing around the city, but spending a very safe day in one location with more than 35 food and drinks to try – and learn too, as we’ll be experiencing the cuisine

of so many different cultures. And then using our new-found knowledge and experience, completing a puzzle to win prizes. I can’t wait!

Yes, there feels more energy around now, hopefully we can start looking forward, and next month I have something super exciting to tell you too!

Raising a glass to Spring, the return of hope, and renewal, Cheers

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

“I just wanted to take a moment to tell you how much we enjoyed the Las Canarias meal on Friday.

The food was delicious, and we especially enjoyed the unique wine pairings. The different combinations were unexpected and delicious. We will definitely be drinking more Pinot Noir with seafood and enjoying Sangria in the winter. Great ideas.”

Melanie R. “We REALLY enjoyed the Vine and Dine package: 1. The video, so informative. 2. The wine selections, perfect. 3. The Shepherd’s Pie and Caesar salad, SO good.

4. The ice cream, a fine ending to a fine evening. A fitting celebration for International Women’s Day! THANK YOU. We will buy more from Jane Bond now that we know about this restaurant! Thank you for your work Linda.”

Marlene R.

Culinary treasures from our backyard and beyond - local and European favourites under one roof.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

italiancentre.ca CALGARY Willow Park

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes

Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Sabrina Kooistra, David Nuttall Gwendolyn Richards Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors

The Art of Perfection Discover Gin, just as it should be.

Mallory Frayn

Mallory is a clinical psychologist and food writer living in Montreal. Whether it be through therapy or writing, Mallory’s goal is to help people develop healthier relationships with food. She has written on a variety of food and psychology-related topics for publications such as Eat North and Eater Montreal. Mallory’s work has also been featured in Time Out Montreal, Canada’s 100 Best, and more. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.

Gwendolyn Richards

Calgary-based food writer and author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers, Gwendolyn writes about travel, culinary trends, and chefs and restaurants of all stripes. When not dining out, she loves to putter in the kitchen, creating new recipes or cooking pasta carbonara. She is passionate about burgers - one of life’s greatest joys - and bourbon-based cocktails. On a good night out, she enjoys both while wearing her signature red lipstick and patent shoes.

Keane Straub

Freelance writer and photographer, Keane is based out of Calgary.

They have travelled from Tofino, BC, to Charlottetown, PEI, and tried a lot of local flavour along the way.

While beer is their go-to, they won’t say no to a good gin and tonic. A storyteller at heart, they find building LEGO therapeutic, and enjoy hiking, teaching photography basics, and reading about Mount Everest. Find them on instagram @keane_larsen, or their website keanestraub.com.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Scan here to find a retailer near you or visit liquorconnect.com

no3gin.com @no3gin

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S More than 70 restaurants took part in this year’s YYC Hot Chocolate Fest in support of Meals on Wheels. Congrats to winners Flower & Wolf for their Honeycomb Hot Chocolate!

Poutine With Purpose is back again from April 23-May 1. What more enjoyable way to support our restaurants and also provide meals to children in need through Mealshare, than by eating poutine! poutinewithpurpose.com.

In the past year, Soup Sisters has delivered fresh soup to over 100,000 people in need. Now you can join in their new Virtual Soup Pot online cooking classes with “souper star” chefs! So clever - for every ticket sold they deliver 1.8 Kg (4 lbs) of fresh, flash-frozen soup to a local shelter to support women and youth in need, and you get to enjoy your soup! soupsisters.org.

We’re welcoming Curtis Cardinal's new indigenous restaurant opened in Edmonton, Tee Pee Treats, at 11725 93 Street NW. Open for take-out, delivery and catering Tuesdays-Saturdays, with daily specials. teepeetreats.com.

Collaborations make it so easy for us to support local, and now there’s a new foodie collective offering free delivery of gourmet local ingredients. 27 of our favourite Calgary businesses and culinary legends have joined forces under the helm of food entrepreneur, Alexandra Olson, to create Market Basket, with a donation from each order providing meals to children in need. marketbasketyyc.ca.

Looking for a new experience? Then you’ll be blown away by Chakalaka on Calgary’s 17 Avenue SW. Ronnie Mupambwa has mostly been involved in nightclubs and bars, and has now opened a sizzling new tapas and cocktail spot serving up impressive salads, snacks, skewers, and exotic hot stone-cooking.

Head Chef Thomas Kagoro creates delicious small dishes from Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, and Italy, and there’s a big cocktail list to match the exciting international flavours (try a $300 Louis XIII cocktail!). Exotic Tuesdays feature meats you may never have eaten before, 8 Culinaire | April 2021

– everything is SO good... And while we may not be dancing in public quite yet, the amazing coloured dance floor will knock your socks off! Open 7 days from 7 am. and don’t miss your own dessert ferris wheel! Come hungry and bring your phone for photos. Open 7 days from 5 pm.

Samantha Pham and Cecilia Baguiwong have realised their dream with their new café Brew+Bloom at 10550 115 St NW, Edmonton. And as well as delicious salads, tartines, pasta, and noodles, all kicked up a notch or three, it’s a floral boutique too.

You’ll see flowers in everything, including their dishes, and there’s also a cottoncandy bar! Open 7 days until 5 pm.

As host city for Curling Canada’s Season of Champions and Grand Slam of Curling, Calgary brewers have been busy! For the next three months, look out for O.T. Brewing’s stouts, Elite Brewing’s Brier Berry Cider, and Zero Issue Brewing’s Cyber Hack. And… they’re offering free and paid delivery!

Canmore Uncorked is back. It looks a little different this year, but from April 8-22 enjoy mountain dining, shopping, and adventures! canmoreuncorked.com.

Share details of your new hobby, business venture, community project, or other exciting initiative at nandos.ca/win before April 30th for a chance to win a share of Nando’s $50,000 Sauce of Inspiration Fund!

Wow! Edmonton’s Pitt County BBQ specializes in Eastern North Carolina style Whole Hog BBQ. They bring their mobile pit to you, cook the meat, break it down, and serve it to you and your family. How special is that! pittcountybbq.com.

Southeast Calgary has been a little lean on locally owned eateries, and the Starbelly Group is determined to change that. Alongside their McKenzie Towne Pink Door Pizza ghost kitchen, they’ve My, how hotel restaurants have opened Calavera Cantina – a bright and changed - the brand new Rendesvouz, spirited, quality, comfort food Mexican in Seton’s Courtyard by Marriott, is eyepopping! From Vintage Group with Jayman restaurant. Chef Mike Westman, of Homes, Chef Mike Skarbo and his team are Banff’s El Patio Rooftop Taco, has created impressing locals and international guests a menu with all our favourites: terrific with their contemporary Canadian cuisine tacos, tostadas, enchiladas, burritos, and a mole with 27 ingredients! There’s also and unique cocktails. We tried completely a choice of eight Margaritas, as well as delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinner other Mexican cocktails, and happy hour dishes, with everything house-made using local ingredients. We’re definitely won over specials. Open 7 days from 11 am.

B O O K R E V I E W BY LI N DA G A RSO N

Roni’s Kitchen

VOTED 2021 BEST NEW CANADIAN WHISKY

C

Gray Jay Deluxe Canadian Whisky is perfect for all occasions. Smooth and unpretentious, it lets you make your own rules.

Recipes from my food journeys around the world

By Roni Zaide, roniskitchen.com $35, E-book $19

AN YOU IMAGINE STARTING with 400

of your own favourite vegan recipes and whittling down to only a quarter of them to include in your first cookbook?

Most people’s books would never get published!

That was the task facing Roni Zaide after exceeding her goal for her crowd-funding campaign. The pressure was on to produce the book, and six months later, and thousands of hours of chopping, mixing, cooking, cooking again, and photography, Roni’s Kitchen arrived in our stores. And at the time of writing, it was number 5 in Calgary’s top ten nonfiction bestsellers.

Zaide has divided her book into three chapters, each representing the different stages of her life: “Home” – growing up in Israel with a family that loved to cook, and a year-round supply of fresh fruits and veggies, has provided ample recipes for Mediterranean treats. Many of us will have enjoyed them at her vegan brunch pop-ups at Café Koi a few years ago – I did, and now I look forward to attempting her 4-ingredient Rose Jam recipe (P.37) and her grandma’s Persian Ghormeh Sabzi soup (P.87).

Chapter Two is “Travel”, and Zaide has visited 25 countries, though she’s chosen to include mostly Indian and Thai dishes here. I can’t decide whether to make her Aloo Paratha (stuffed bread with a potato filling) or Gobi (stuffed with cauliflower) – maybe I’ll have to make both! (P. 133). And I’m sorely tempted by the Avocado Coconut Lime Popsicles from her visits to Hawaii (P.171).

Zaide came to Calgary in 2006 and worked at The Coup. She started her own catering business in 2014, with a weekly meal service, cooking classes, and pop-ups, and her final chapter, “Calgary”, features recipes from these ventures. I’ve already made her Turmeric Ginger Lentil Dip (P.213). Yum! Every recipe is accompanied by large and bright colour photographs, so we can see what our dishes should look like; and not only does Zaide include an index by recipe type: appetizers, breads, brunch, soups, condiments etc; she’s thoughtfully provided an index by ingredient too - so useful when looking at the contents in your fridge and deciding what to make for dinner!

Buy a bottle today, and enjoy every sip, just as you like.

YOUR WHISKY. YOUR RULES. *Best New Product for Canadian Whisky in a 2021 BrandSpark® survey.

Please enjoy the adventure responsibly. © 2021 Fluid Assets Inc. All Rights Reserved.

O F F TH E M E N U

Whiskey Truffle Torte

BY LINDA GARSON I PHOTO BY DONG KIM

W

E LOVE HEARING FROM from readers requesting their favourite recipes, and particularly to receive an email like this: “I’ve been reading this magazine for years and absolutely love it!

The gluten-free hazelnut torte from Decadent Brulee is heavenly. I was wondering if you could source out and print a recipe.”

Thank you, Loreta T.” How could we resist, flattery will get you everywhere! Many thanks to Decadent Brulee for sharing their recipe for this decadent torte.

Whiskey Truffle Torte Makes one 25 cm torte

1 cup ground hazelnuts 337 g unsalted butter 675 g semi-sweet dark chocolate 1½ tsp (7 mL) coffee 3 Tbs (45 mL) whiskey 1½ tsp (7 mL) pure vanilla 9 eggs, room temperature 1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. Spray/butter a 25 cm (10”) springform pan, and line with a parchment circle.

Wrap the bottom with foil. Prepare a water bath in a pan large enough to hold this pan.

3. Toast hazelnuts approximately 8-10 minutes, until fragrant. Let cool.

4. Melt butter and chocolate together.

5. In a small bowl, dissolve the coffee in the whiskey, add vanilla.

6. Using an electric mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the eggs on high speed to ribbon stage.

7. Mix the hazelnuts and whiskey mixture into the melted chocolate. Fold gently together with the eggs.

8. Pour into the prepared pan and place 10 Culinaire | April 2021

into the hot water bath, bake 30 minutes.

The centre will still be soft. Remove from the water bath and let cool. Using your fingertips, push down to somewhat level the surface, then wrap and refrigerate overnight.

9. Using a paring knife dipped in hot water, run the knife around the edge of the springform pan to release the cake.

Remove the ring. Lift to remove the paper from the bottom. Leaving the cake on the springform bottom, place on a rack over a bowl or sheet pan large enough to catch the drippings.

10. Pour the ganache over, allowing it to fill the uneven top surface and run down the sides. Allow the ganache to set somewhat, then press chocolate curls or

more toasted ground hazelnuts on the sides to finish.

Ganache

500g semi-sweet dark chocolate, chopped 2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream Place the chocolate into a bowl.

Bring the cream to a boil, then pour over the chocolate. Allow to sit 5 minutes, then stir until the chocolate is melted completely.

If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!

NAIT is proud to recognize the outstanding accomplishments of our alumni with the annual NAIT Celebrates Awards.

Learn more about our award recipients at nait.ca/celebrate

Notable chef and author of the acclaimed cookbook, tawâw, Shane Chartrand (Cook ‘04) received the 2020 Alumni Award of Excellence for his achievements in the culinary arts profession.

Do you know an inspiring NAIT grad who’s doing amazing things for their community?

Submit an award nomination at nait.ca/nominate

Chef at High Dough, Lasha Gust (Cooking ‘14; Culinary Arts ‘15) received the 2020 Spirit of NAIT Alumni Award for her professional accomplishments and mentorship of the next generation of chefs.

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Re-setting the Bar: From Public House to Private Residence

BY KEANE STRAUB I PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

R

EMEMBER WHEN WE couldn’t wait to get to Friday? It was the end of the work week, something to look forward to, and a chance to blow off a little steam and put aside the hustle for a bit of fun with good friends and good food. As we’ve all come to discover, these days a free-and-easy Friday eve at the local pub with a group of friends, and watching the game or enjoying live music, isn’t an option.

This month, we spoke with four Alberta chefs who gave us their spin on pub favourites. We were delighted to discover that instead of menu staples like wings, dry ribs, nachos and beef dips, the dishes created in pubs today are a reflection of Alberta’s cultural diversity. And, they’re a great way to cap off the work week, whatever that looks like these days.

Chef Joseph Lavergne, of Calgary’s Freehouse, says that for the last 10 years, he’s been fortunate to work with some of the most driven and talented culinary professionals in the industry. The variety of locally sourced products ignite Lavergne’s creativity.

“But,” he continues, “the most inspiring thing to me would have to be the people and patrons. I feel so blessed that I can provide people with an amazing dining experience.”

While he admits that he doesn’t get out to the pub much, and these days even more so, he says it’s important to put one’s day-to-day life aside for a minute and enjoy food, drinks, and good company, even if we’ve had to adapt what that means. “I do love a good seven-layer dip,” he says, along with chicken wings and cabbage rolls: “Who doesn’t love a good homemade cabbage roll?”

And when it comes to company, Lavergne’s choice is often his daughter,

12 Culinaire | April 2021

Rose. “On my days off, I really look forward to cooking with her.” They enjoy cooking variations on Rose’s grandmother’s chicken curry, a dish that has become a staple in their household, and one that Lavergne says is the perfect end to a long work week.

Chicken Curry Serves 2

1 Tbs (15 mL) neutral oil 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 cardamom pods 3 bay leaves 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 3 Thai chilies 7 garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbs fresh ginger, minced 6 chicken thighs, skin on 1 large tomato, diced 3 Tbs fresh coriander, chopped 1 Tbs turmeric 1½ cups (375 mL) water or chicken stock To taste salt and pepper

1. In a medium pot add oil, cumin seed, cardamom, and bay leaves. Heat on medium until spices become aromatic.

2. Add onion and chilies, and cook until onions are translucent.

3. Add garlic and ginger, and chicken thighs skin-side down. Brown chicken until just over half cooked.

4. Add tomato, coriander, and turmeric.

Cook until the tomatoes break down and start turning into a smooth consistency.

5. Add water or stock, season with salt and pepper, and continue to cook for about 20 minutes, or until desired consistency is reached.

Fresh, seasonal ingredients play an important role in the dishes created by Diana Nacita, the executive chef/kitchen manager at Calgary’s King Eddy. Growing up in the Philippines, she recalls going to open-air markets with her mother.

“What I thought was a chore as a child, has now become my biggest source of knowledge. To be able to adapt to produce seasonality is a huge drive for me to be creative.”

At the pub, Nacita favours a good beef dip, or roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, both of which remind her of moving to Alberta after culinary school, and being independent. “Pub dining means comfort for me. You’re in a casual setting, with friends – I miss that! – and you just have a great time.”

For Nacita, one of the best parts of working at the King Eddy was the live music. While she didn’t get to see the shows, she could still hear the sound checks, the full sets, and the audience.

“I miss live music so, so much,” she says.

She’s certainly not alone! Livestreamed music is something Nacita takes full advantage of: “I can cast a show on my TV and eat from the couch!” Live from your living room, your fave band, and a batch of Nacita’s spring rolls!

Lemongrass Chicken Spring Rolls Serves 2- 4

Filling:

900 g ground chicken ¼ tsp baking soda ½ tbsp garlic, minced 2 Tbs shallots, minced 1 cup carrots, peeled and grated 1 Tbs lemongrass paste 1 tsp ground coriander seeds 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola or vegetable oil ¼ tsp dried chili flakes 2 Tbs (30 mL) fish sauce 1/8 tsp ground black pepper 12 sheets spring roll wrapper 1 whole egg, whisked Oil for frying

1. Place filling ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Cover and place in fridge for at least 2 hours. This will ensure the flavours will be fully incorporated into the ground chicken.

2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

3. Place filling in a Ziploc bag, seal and cut off one bottom corner to create a piping bag.

4. Place a spring roll wrapper on a clean work surface and squeeze the mixture along the bottom of the wrapper.

5. Brush edges with the whisked egg and roll it up tightly: start at the bottom, roll once, then fold sides in towards centre and continue rolling all the way up.

Repeat until all filling has been used.

6. In a heavy-bottomed skillet heat 4-6 cm of oil over medium heat until it reaches 350º F. 7. Fry spring rolls in three batches. Don’t overcrowd the fryer or the temperature will drop, and the spring rolls will stick to each other.

8. Remove from fryer, place on a wire rack to drain excess oil. Serve with sweet chili sauce or atchara (pickled papaya).

April 2021 | Culinaire 13

Rob Filipchuk describes himself as a “hands-on owner/operator” at The Glass Monkey in Edmonton, and enjoys being involved with all operations in the gastropub, both front and back-ofhouse. From eating a spit-roasted pig in the Balinese jungle to dining in Michelin star restaurants in France, Filipchuk says his global education on food and culture is incredibly valuable. “These travel experiences have had a great impact on many, if not all, of the menu items at The Glass Monkey.”

Creating the pub experience at home doesn’t take much, but it’s the details that count. He suggests taking the time to plate and finish a dish; setting the table, using the good glassware, creating a fancy cocktail with a beautiful garnish, or even just playing music can all enhance the way we dine at home. “I find it’s also fun to print up a menu for the evening,” he adds.

He says he’s easy to please at the pub, and he keeps his eye out for menus that use off-cuts, local produce, intriguing flavour combinations and unique cooking techniques - things that say the kitchen is invested in what they’re serving. “When the kitchen is engaged and interested in their work, great things can happen!”

Korean Style ‘Galbi’ Beef Short Ribs with Vietnamese Pickled Cucumber Salad

Vietnamese Cucumber Salad Salad:

Serves 2-4

½ cup red onion, thinly sliced ½ cup red pepper, thinly sliced 1 long English cucumber, thinly sliced

1 1/3 kg beef short ribs, thin cut (Korean or ‘Galbi’ style)

Marinade:

1¼ cup (310 mL) soy sauce 1 cup (250 mL) pineapple juice ¾ cup brown sugar ½ Tbs ground black pepper 1 Tbs garlic, minced 1 Tbs ginger powder or minced fresh ginger 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 1 Tbs dry mustard powder ½ cup green onions, chopped ½ cup (120 mL) red wine 1 Tbs (15 mL) Tabasco sauce ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil 14 Culinaire | April 2021

1. Combine all ingredients for the marinade and mix well.

2. Marinate short ribs in the mixture for a minimum of 6 hours, up to 24 hours.

3. Preheat barbecue or grill pan to medium hot, brush surface with oil to prevent sticking. Grill ribs for 3-5 minutes per side until done medium-well.

Marinade:

1 cup (250 mL) vinegar 2 Tbs Kosher salt ½ tsp Tabasco Sauce ¾ cup sugar 1 Tbs minced fresh garlic 1 Tbs chopped fresh dill 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil Combine marinade ingredients and mix well. Add onion, red pepper, and cucumber to marinade and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, up to 24 hours or longer if need be.

Baked Brie with Spiced Apple Compote

1 baguette 1 package phyllo pastry ¼ cup (60 mL) melted butter 200 g wheel of Brie To taste salt and pepper 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil

Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake until golden brown, about 7-10 minutes.

4. To the pot with apples add the brown sugar, salt, red chili flakes, cinnamon, star anise and clove.

5. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring to prevent sticking. Over-stirring will break up the apples and make applesauce!

6. Once the moisture has almost evaporated, add beer and remaining lemon juice. Cook until syrupy.

7. On a cutting board, place 1 sheet of phyllo pastry and brush the surface with melted butter. Place another sheet of phyllo on top and brush the top of this sheet with butter. Place Brie in the center of the pastry and bring corners of the pastry towards the center gently pressing together to make a pouch shape. Drizzle any remaining butter over top of the Brie and bake for about 20 minutes or until golden brown.

8. Generously spoon compote onto baked Brie, serve with crostini, and enjoy with good company!

1. Preheat oven to 425º F. 2. Heat a medium sized pot on medium heat and add butter. Once melted, drain apples and add. Cook until half soft.

3. Slice baguette 2 cm thick. Line a baking sheet with foil and lay out slices.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.

Serves 4

Marc Bourgeois of The Derrick in Calgary, feels the best way to improve as a cook is learning from new foods, both preparing and eating them.

“Learning why something didn’t work is often more beneficial than knowing why it did. Luckily, when you cook, you still get to eat your mistakes!”

Born and raised in Montreal, Bourgeois has lived in Calgary for the last 15 years. Growing up on a vegan diet and having a well-travelled father meant he experienced new and different foods from an early age. Combined with a love of travel and a girlfriend with a Korean background, Bourgeois says, “I always seem to incorporate some of my French and Acadian roots into my cuisine.”

His recipe for baked Brie and apple compote expresses his French connection, and it’s perfect for sharing, whether you’re having a quiet night with a loved one, or perhaps watching a game.

For Bourgeois, sports and the pub go hand-in-hand. “[It] doesn’t feel quite the same unless someone is calling insults at the TV with the game on. At home, there will always be a game on in the background.”

Compote:

¼ cup unsalted butter Juice of 1 lemon, divided 680 g Granny Smith apples cored, peeled, cut into ½ cm wedges (keep in water with juice of ½ lemon to prevent oxidization) ½ cup brown sugar ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp red chili flakes 1 cinnamon stick (or ¼ tsp ground cinnamon) 2 pieces star anise 1 whole clove (or 1/8 tsp ground clove) 1 cup (250 mL) beer

April 2021 | Culinaire 15

Hole-y delicious

BY GWENDOLYN RICHARDS

Destination Doughnuts

F

rom the stacks on a cake plate under a plastic dome in a lowly coffee shop to lines on trays in local bakeries, all the way up to being set on fine china in restaurants with Michelin stars and impossible reservation systems, the humble doughnut finds a place.

At its most basic, it is a simple circle of sweetened dough, deep-fried to golden.

Convenient, comforting and infinitely adaptable, it’s a blank slate of a baked good with any complexities coming from flavourings, fillings and adornments.

Its history is hard to trace, given almost every culture has its own version — whether ring-shaped or not. But slowly, over the centuries, doughnuts have become a part of the culinary fabric, a coffee-break staple, a weekend

16 Culinaire | April 2021

Donut Club

indulgence and, increasingly, a basic treat worthy of experimentation and elevation. “Doughnuts have been around for so long, they’re part of society,” says Arlyn Sturwold, the owner of Destination Doughnuts in Edmonton. “It has always been popular.” And he can back that claim up — his own 50-year career has been bookended by them.

For his first baking job out of school, in Barrhead, Alberta in 1968, Sturwold spent hours in a poorly lit, poorly ventilated back room frying donuts.

While the red seal German baker would later work in bakery supply sales, become a pipefitter and then semi-retire, he was drawn back to baking because of those delicious dough rings — opening Destination Doughnuts in 2017. A far cry from those he made decades earlier,

Sturwold has created a more gourmet version of the doughnut, upping the ante through bulk fermentation and runs through a sheeter to build flavour before they hit the oil.

With options like strawberry cheesecake, snickerdoodle, matcha, glazed rhubarb fritters, and a lemon meringue complete with torched topping, Sturwold has developed a loyal following for his modern offerings. “This is not a doughnut from the old days,” he says.

Their photogenic nature also makes them much more than straightforward doughnuts.

“When [people] say they haven’t been in before and I ask why today, it’s either because someone had doughnuts shared with them or they saw us on Instagram or Facebook,” Sturwold says.

Glamorgan Bakery

While most are typically made from yeast-raised dough — cake doughnuts are a whole different story — Kayle and Kate Burns turned to brioche for the ones they make for their weekly Donut Club pop-up.

It’s a nod to Kayle’s days working under famed chef Daniel Boulud in New York City — another sure sign the doughnut can find a home in kitchens of all levels.

Every Monday, Calgarians scramble to get one of the limited pre-orders for the doughnuts that open at noon for Saturday pickup. The couple brainstorms flavours for the massive filled doughnuts — three each week, along with a ‘plain Jane’ simply dusted with cinnamon and sugar — playing with combinations that either evoke nostalgia (cinnamon raisin toast or cookies and cream) or impress foodies (yuzu, toasted sesame and meringue, and chamomile, honey and peach custard).

Donut Club started as a response to the pandemic, and its quick growth surprised both Kate and Kayle, who is also the chef at Una Pizza and Wine, and Bread and Circus. “At first, I was taking all the orders through Instagram, but I’d have 50 messages by midday,” says Kate. “It became big so quickly that we had to get a website to automate it.” Kayle suspects the never-ending appetite for doughnuts in general is they tick a lot of boxes.

“It’s a deep-fried dessert. It hits all the flavour profiles: sweet, salty, fatty, rich.”

But, he adds, it’s also that doughnuts are practically in Canadians’ DNA. “It’s in our roots almost.”

While most turn to the doughnut when the craving strikes for a sweet treat,

Holy Cow

Café Vendome is frying up a version that turns the concept on its head. When chef Alejandro Buzzalino was developing the menu, he told corporate executive chef Matt Batey that he wanted to create a warm potato and salmon doughnut. Batey was skeptical — until he took his first bite.

Now, it’s a signature dish and one of the most Instagrammable on the menu.

“They check that box of they’re comfort food enough, the deep fry, the soft and crunchy,” says Batey.

Vendome has even doubled down on doughnuts, now offering a pulled pork sandwich on a glazed doughnut — a nod to carnival food. “This sandwich is dirty,” Batey acknowledges. “The good dirty.”

Next door at Holy Cow, doughnuts are flying off the shelves — and they weren’t even part of the original plan for the gelato shop. Instead, a hiccup in construction, which pushed opening date past the heated days of summer, led to their addition to the menu. It also plays into the shop’s branding, that it’s essentially the opposite of Teatro’s other, more refined, items. “There couldn’t be anything more tongue-in-cheek as a pastry offering than a deep-fried, sprinkled doughnut,” says Batey.

Holy Cow production lead Larissa Costella says no matter what she puts on the doughnut menu, they are quick to sell out. The trained baker and artist — whose artworks often feature baked goods — plays with flavours and concepts, transforming classic desserts into doughnut versions, which keep people coming back for more. “I’m almost always

thinking of doughnuts. I have a hard time going to sleep,” she says. Costella appreciates their playfulness, the colours and childlike appeal, and she believes people connect with them because they’re nostalgic fun. “People need fun right now,” she says.

While bakers and restaurateurs continue to push the envelope when it comes to elevating the doughnut, our appetite for them remains rooted in nostalgia. That’s nowhere more evident than Glamorgan Bakery, which has been offering traditional, but no less beloved, versions of doughnuts for nearly 44 years.

Here in the glass cases, cookies, cakes and other goodies line up next to jelly doughnuts stuffed with raspberry jam, custard-filled Boston creams, honeyglazed, and chocolate. On the weekends, they add baby Boston creams to the list — bite-sized versions of the classic.

Each week that amounts to bakers frying up nearly 2,000 doughnuts, and customers are eager to snap them up while still warm. “Doughnuts have always been popular,” says owner Jannette Nauta. “All of us like it when they’re fresh and hot.” Nauta believes there’s something about them being sweet and not “all the way good for us” that makes people crave the timeless doughnut.

“There’s something very nostalgic about them. They never go out of style.”

Gwendolyn is a Calgary-based food writer and author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers.

She writes about food trends, restaurants and recipes for a number of publications.

April 2021 | Culinaire 17

Green With Envy S

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY

pring: time to take in a big breath of fresh air as we watch the green peek out from the white winter slumber. Trees are starting to sprout little green tips. Grass is taking up more room than snow. Farmers are busy tending their crops so we can enjoy fresh spring vegetables to be sold at neighbourhood markets and vegetable stands.

Springtime, flavour-packed foods make their way to our kitchen tables as we hunger for lighter and brighter tastes.

Edamame Hummus

Makes 2½ cups (600 mL) 2 cups edamame beans 2 cloves garlic 1 Tbs (15 mL) rice vinegar 1½ tsp (7.5 mL) yuzu 1 green onion ¼ cup (60 mL) tahini 1 Tbs (15 mL) mirin ¼ cup (60 mL) avocado oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice 1 tsp sea salt 1½ Tbs (22 mL) water 1 tsp wasabi 1. Half fill a small pot with water. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Add edamame beans and cook 5 minutes.

Rinse beans with cold water.

2. In a food processor, add garlic and pulse a couple of seconds. Add rice vinegar, yuzu, green onion, tahini, and mirin and pulse until combined.

3. Add edamame beans, avocado oil, lemon juice, salt, water, and wasabi to food processor and combine until smooth. Taste and add more salt if needed.

4. If the hummus is too thick then add more cold water 1 Tbs (15 mL) at a time until desired consistency is reached.

Serve with vegetables.

18 Culinaire | April 2021

Endamame Hummus

Green Vegetable Soup

Serves 2 Lighten up from the heavy soups of winter!

3 cups (720 mL) stock (vegetable or chicken) 1 sprig fresh thyme Pinch salt ½ small zucchini 1 bok choy ½ cup peas, fresh or frozen 1 green onion, sliced 1. In a small pot over medium heat, gently warm the stock.

2. Add thyme and season with salt to taste.

3. Cut zucchini in small pieces, 1 to 2 cm and add to stock.

4. Trim ends from the bok choy, roughly chop and add to the stock.

5. Add peas to stock.

6. Continue cooking another 3 minutes or until broth is warmed through. Serve topped with thinly sliced green onion.

Green Falafel Makes 11

2½ cups (350 g) dried chickpeas, soaked 3 cloves garlic ½ cup fresh parsley, lightly packed ¾ cup fresh cilantro, lightly packed 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice 1 tsp salt 1½ tsp cumin ½ tsp cardamon ½ tsp black pepper ½ cup chickpea flour ½ tsp baking soda Oil for cooking 1. Soak dried chickpeas overnight covered in water. Drain water when ready to use.

2. In a food processor, add garlic and pulse a few seconds. Add the parsley, cilantro, lemon juice, salt, cumin, cardamom, and black pepper to the food processor and let it run about 20 seconds.

3. Add the drained chickpeas and let run until everything is finely chopped and has a granular texture. You may need to scrape down the sides.

4. Move the mixture from the food processor to a medium size bowl. Add the chickpea flour and baking soda and stir to combine. Let sit about an hour.

5. Scoop the mixture and form into patties or balls.

There are 3 different ways to cook the falafel.

1. Bake at 425º F 25 - 30 minutes (better for a patty shape) 2. Deep fry until each side is browned (better for a ball shape) 3. Pan fry in a shallow amount of oil until browned on each side (better for a patty shape)

Green Falafel with Green Tahini Avocado Dip

Green Tahini Avocado Dip Makes ½ cup (120 mL)

Great as a dip for your falafels and terrific to spread on sandwiches. ½ cup cilantro, lightly packed 1 Tbs (15 mL) tahini 1 avocado Pinch salt 1 tsp lime zest 2 Tbs (30 mL) lime juice 1 tsp (5 mL) honey ¼ cup (60 mL) water 1. In a small food processor, add the cilantro and pulse for a couple seconds.

2. Add the remaining ingredients and combine until smooth. Add more water to thin if needed.

3. Adjust seasoning as desired.

Serve with green tahini avocado dip.

Note:

1 cup dry chickpeas = approximately 3 cup soaked Spicey Green Sauce

Spicy Green Sauce Makes ½ cup (120 mL)

3 cloves garlic ¾ cup parsley, lightly packed 1/3 cup basil, lightly packed ½ cup (120 mL) olive oil ½ tsp sea salt 1 tsp lemon zest 1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice ½ tsp capers ½ fresh jalapeño 1. In a small food processor, add garlic and pulse for a couple of seconds. Add the parsley and basil and pulse again.

2. Add the remaining ingredients, except for the jalapeño, and combine.

3. Add the jalapeño to the food processor and pulse.

Warning: not all jalapeños are created equal. Use as much or as little as suits your taste.

4. Serve with meat, fish, smashed potatoes, rice… anything really.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

April 2021 | Culinaire 19

Photos courtesy Food Network Canada Alex Edmonson

Galasa Aden

TOP CHEF SEASON 9

Meet the contestants with Albertan roots F

BY MALLORY FRAYN

or Galasa Aden and Alex Edmonson, competing on Top Chef Canada was a goal set in the early stages of their careers, but neither anticipated getting their chance to do so in the middle of a global pandemic.

“It added another layer of complexity,” Aden admits, although both he and Edmonson were pleasantly surprised at how the production team handled logistics related to COVID health and safety.

“At first I was really worried about the pandemic impacting how the season would go,” Edmonson says, “But I actually felt really safe and didn’t have to worry about anything. They had it on lockdown.” No pun intended.

28-year old Aden, who began his career at Calgary’s River Café, worked his way up through the ranks, and eventually took the helm as Chef de Cuisine at their sister restaurant, Deane House. However, after a flood closed the restaurant for the better part of 6 months, affording Aden to reflect on his career trajectory, he decided to make the move to mountain life.

He now works as the Executive Chef at Cliffhanger Restaurant at the Grey Wolf Golf Course in Panorama, BC, a popular destination for Alberta travelers looking for weekend getaways. “To showcase really amazing, Canadian food at a resort is not something that often happens,”

he describes. It’s usually just generic burgers and such, so I took it upon myself to stand apart.”

While Top Chef had been on his radar since he began cooking, he was surprised when the show reached out to him, asking him to apply. “That really fueled my fire,” Aden says, although he initially didn’t expect to make it on. Aden’s prediction turned out to be incorrect and he received the call during a camping trip, lucky to be in cell reception!

Edmonson’s Top Chef aspirations also began during the early days of his career, working for Charcut’s Connie DeSousa, Top Chef Season One alumnus. “Right when I got the job was when her season aired,” he notes, adding that he had the opportunity to watch her trajectory and subsequent success brought on by the show firsthand. All of that said, he emphasizes that you still need the chops to make it.

“It’s inevitable that people will want to go on TV for attention, but Top Chef is all about the cooking. If you can’t cook, you won’t make it,” Edmonson states.

Having worked in Michelin-star kitchens like Copenhagen’s culinary mecca, Noma, Edmonson believes that his experiences working in highpressure environments helped him to prepare for the intensity of the show.

“I’m used to being in the juice,” he says.

But despite his experience, there was a point where Edmonson wasn’t

sure whether or not he wanted to keep cooking in the long term. Having gained recognition in Calgary as Executive Chef at Market Restaurant, the stress of working 100-hour weeks and the lack of time to pursue his own well being, led him to step away and reflect on his priorities. He now works as the owner and chef of his own personal chef company, AE Chef Services, which has helped him to create a greater sense of balance.

For both Aden and Edmonson, Top Chef is recounted as the most difficult career experience they’ve had to date.

“I did not anticipate it pulling on every emotional strand the human body is capable of experiencing,” Aden admits.

For Edmonson, conceptualizing and creating new dishes on the fly was a large aspect of what pushed him outside his comfort zone. “In a restaurant, you sometimes have months to try something out, and on the show, you’re coming up with it on the spot,” he describes. But for both chefs, the positives that accompanied the experience far outweighed the negatives.

As Aden puts it, “As stressful as it was, at end of day I’m just a kid trying to cook good food for the country.”

Mallory is a Calgary clinical psychologist and food writer now living and eating in Montreal. Her goal is to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.

April 2021 | Culinaire 21

Eh Farms’ cute and curly Red Mangalitsa pigs bring a new kind of pork to the table

BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

N

ot all pigs are the same. This is something that most people who are knowledgeable about their food realize — just like there are different breeds of cows that dictate the distinction between an Angus or Wagyu steak, breeds like Berkshire and Duroc hogs have their own characteristics, both as animals and in the end meat product.

But both Berkshire and Duroc pigs fall into the category of what we usually

22 Culinaire | April 2021

think of as standard pork. The Red Mangalitsa is a different kind of swine all together.

Christina Stender, the force behind Eh Farms doesn’t even call her animals “pigs,” she calls them “Mangalitsas” because they’re almost an entirely different animal than those that produce the white pork chops that most of us are used to buying in the grocery store. The pigs themselves are quite cute to look at: they’re big but are covered in a woolly

red fur that makes them a good match for Alberta winters. More importantly, they’re often referred to as the “Kobe beef of pork,” thanks to the rich and fatty red-hued meat that is often mistaken for beef when it hits the table.

Most Albertans haven’t heard of Red Mangalitsa, which isn’t a surprise.

Stender is the first to bring them to Canada from their native Hungary and her operation is fairly small (though some other local farms are starting

to breed Red Mangalitsa pigs). She didn’t grow up on a farm herself but she majored in Animal Science at the University of Guelph and dreamed of having her own farm. After moving to Alberta and working with grain farmers for a while, she and her husband bought what used to be a small cattle farm near Strathmore in 2016. Stender knew she wanted to raise pigs, but when the time came to buy her first animals she surprised herself by opting for a lesserknown European breed.

“I started doing my homework around the Mangalitsas and learned about their uniqueness, the way they look, and their hardiness. No one else was doing them in Canada, so there was a business opportunity there,” she says. “I didn’t want to be like everyone else. I’m not like everyone else — I’m

unique and rare, so we thought it would be a really good fit.”

Red Mangalitsa pork is definitely a niche product. Stender runs her pigs free range, keeps them on the farm until they are two years old and treats them with tender loving care (she even sleeps in the barn with her sows while they’re waiting to give birth to piglets), which pushes them into the luxury meat market. While the pork can be cut into chops, roasts, and other conventional pork products, it is also particularly well suited for curing.

“The Mangalitsa is one of the fattiest pigs in the world. That’s why it’s renowned for its charcuterie, which is one of the growing meat trends in Canada,” Stender says. “That’s where the Mangalitsa shines because you can cure this meat for years and it won’t

dry out. The longer you cure it, the more flavourful gets.”

Stender has about 60 pigs on her farm and since they take 24 months to raise, even though Mangalitsa pork is a boutique product her supply isn’t meeting the potential demand that would come with wider distribution.

She sells her products slowly, alerting customers when a pig is ready for harvest, often selling to a handful of commercial accounts like Fairmont Banff Springs, Ankör Restaurant in Canmore, and Calgary restaurants including River Café, Eight, Shokunin, and Soleil Bistro.

The pork is also occasionally available through services like Bessie Box in both Calgary and Edmonton, but the best way for consumers to get their Mangalitsa is to come out to the farm, where Stender does direct sales via email (she doesn’t keep an online store because so many cuts are so often sold out). Stender warns home cooks that they should be careful not to overcook Mangalitsa and to also avoid putting it directly on an outdoor grill since the April 2021 | Culinaire 23

abundant pork fat can quickly burst into flames.

As an agriculture academic, Stender is also big on educating the public about her beautiful pigs. When it’s safe to do so, Eh Farms is a hotbed of activity, with Stender often offering farm tours and participating in events like Open Farm Days and even holding an annual Mangalitsa festival called Pigstock that attracts members of the Hungarian community who miss the fleecy pigs from back home. She doesn’t think that Red Mangalitsas will ever become the dominant breed in Alberta (nor does she want them to), but she loves introducing something different to the customers who visit her farm.

We’re so pleased to offer live Vine & Dine pairing dinners! We’re working on new dates, new locations, and new menus for you to safely enjoy an evening of good food and drink where you don’t have to do the washing up afterwards.

Your safety is still is a priority at our pairing dinners, and we have a clean slate from our dinners last year. Our promise is that we’ll only offer live events where it’s completely safe, and you can relax and enjoy the evenings. The restaurants we work with not only meet AHS regulations, but try to exceed them.

Check culinairemagazine.ca/events regularly, and email if you’d like to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about dine-in and take-out dinners before the rest of the city. They do sell out rather quickly!

24 Culinaire | April 2021

“Sharing my story is a big thing for me,” Stender says. “I really want to educate both adults and kids, not just about my breed, but about life on the farm and the vital role that agriculture plays in our lives.”

For more information on Eh Farms

and its Magalitsa pigs or to get in touch to place an order, visit ehfarms.ca.

Vine & Dine Pairing Dinners at Soleil Bistro Monday April 19 and Monday April 26 Our delicious, 6-course pairing dinners at Soleil Bistro last year all sold out, and now we’re excited to announce two live Vine & Dine evenings here in East Village while the restaurant is closed, so we have the dining room to ourselves, with a new 6-course Spring pairing menu!

We’re happy to announce a special, one-off pairing dinner at Oxbow in Hotel Arts Kensington!

One-off Special Live Fine & Dine Dinner at the brand new Rendesvouz Restaurant Thursday April 15 Rendesvouz Restaurant in Seton is fabulous, and with Chef Mike Skarbo at the helm, we’re thrilled to offer a very special, one night only, 5-course premium pairing dinner in our private dining room to celebrate International Malbec Day. These are not your everyday malbecs!

One-off Live Fine & Dine Dinner at Oxbow Restaurant Thursday April 29

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

Paired Take-Out Packages from the new Jane Bond BBQ Marketplace Last year we offered a 3-course paired BBQ package from Jane Bond BBQ, and now here’s one from their new Marketplace with homemade flashfrozen meals, and a fresh starter – and it includes a whole jar of some of the best Caesar dressing we’ve tasted!

Paired Take-Out Packages from the Hotel Arts Our superb, upscale, paired take-out packages from Chef Quinn Staple at Hotel Arts have all been hugely popular, and we’re thrilled to offer you a new 4-course completely delicious take-out package!

Menus and restaurants change regularly, email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your dinners!

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Registration Deadline June 25 Judging Takes Place July 19-21 For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca

culinairemagazine.ca/aba

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Step By Step:

Muffuletta A STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

fter a long winter of being cooped up inside the house, as soon as the snow melts and green things begin to emerge from the earth again, the urge to pack up a picnic and eat outside is very strong.

Usually I’m keen on layering fresh bread with an assortment of cheeses, meats and snacky things like olives and pickles. But then there is the muffuletta which is all of these things made into one colossal (and 26 Culinaire | April 2021

delicious!) sandwich.

Muffuletta (muff-uh-LAH-tuh) – also known as Muffaletta – is a classic New Orleans sandwich that consists of a large wide bread, filled with layers of marinated olive salad, cheese, and Italian deli meats. In Italy, muffuletta is the name of the bread itself: a round and flat Sicilian sesame loaf. The sandwich was created in 1906 at the Central Grocery in New Orleans by its owner, Salvatore Lupo, a Sicilian immigrant. Legend has it that Salvatore

noticed his customers had a hard time juggling and eating their bread, meat and olives – which he sold separately – so he started putting everything together in one giant sandwich.

The sandwich came to be known as Muffuletta because he used the sesameseed topped bread. To this day, it is an extremely popular sandwich found all over New Orleans.

The all important olive salad consists of olives, obviously. I use pitted kalamata and pimento-stuffed green, but you can use whatever variety you like. Giardiniera (a mix of pickled vegetables in vinegar or oil) is traditional in this sandwich, but I used roasted red peppers and artichoke hearts instead. If you have a jar of this in the fridge, by all means use it. I prefer shallots in the salad because they are milder and will let the olives shine. You can use some red onion if you like. Oregano is key, and dried is fine. For a bit of a kick, I add a generous pinch of red pepper flakes.

For some acidity, I use sherry vinegar, but red or white wine vinegars can be used instead. Extra virgin olive oil rounds out the salad, but don’t forget to season with salt and pepper.

The bread is important here, and I use a round loaf of sourdough as it is nice and sturdy. Provolone is the cheese of choice, though slices of fresh mozzarella would be very tasty. For the cold cuts, salami, ham, capicola, mortadella, and soppressata (hot or sweet) are fairly traditional. Use what you like, just be sure they are thinly sliced. To have something green, I added the peppery bite of arugula.

Assembling the sandwich is straightforward: hollow out the bread, spread the olive salad on both cut sides, layer in the meat and cheese, add the arugula, put the bread top on, then wrap the sandwich tightly in plastic. You can enjoy it after one hour, or wait a bit longer so the flavours marry. This is a terrific sandwich to slice and eat outside, or wrap each wedge individually and take along on all of those outdoor adventures we’ll be having this spring and summer. Don’t forget the napkins!

Muffuletta ¼ cup (60 mL) red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar 1½ tsp dried oregano ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper pinch red pepper flakes pinch sugar 1/3 cup (80 mL) extra virgin olive oil ½ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped 1/3 cup pitted green olives, chopped ¼ cup chopped roasted red peppers ¼ cup chopped marinated artichoke hearts 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 round bread loaf (sourdough is ideal) approx. 20 cm in diameter 90 g thinly sliced ham 90 g thinly sliced salami 90 g thinly sliced mortadella 90 g thinly sliced capicola 180 g sliced provolone, 8 slices 1 cup arugula 1. Whisk together the vinegar, oregano, salt, pepper, red pepper flakes, and sugar in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Stir in the olives, roasted peppers, and artichoke hearts. Season with more salt and pepper, if desired.

2. Slice the top 2.5 cm of the bread loaf off. Hollow out the bottom and top halves of the bread, leaving a 2.5 cm border. Reserve the excess bread for another use such as croutons or bread crumbs. Spread some of the olive salad on the bottom and up the sides of the

bread, as well as on the cut side of the bread top. Put down a couple of layers of meat, then 4 slices of cheese, then the remaining meat. Add the arugula then the last 4 slices of cheese. Spread any remaining olive salad over the cheese and carefully cover with the bread top.

3. Wrap the entire sandwich tightly in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for a minimum of 1 hour.

Cut the sandwich into wedges and serve immediately. If you want to take this sandwich on a picnic, cut the sandwich

into wedges and wrap each individually for easy transport.

Note:

If you want more of a kick to your muffuletta, choose spicy cold cuts instead of mild.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.

A real good egg.

Spring for the good stuff: delightful chocolate confections handcrafted with simple ingredients, no artificial preservatives, and delicious couverture chocolate made with certified sustainable and fair trade cocoa and cocoa butter.

Shop in person: Victoria Park • Bankers Hall • Signal Hill • Southcentre Curbside pickup: Cococo Chocolate Factory in Mayland Heights Shop online: www.CococoChocolatiers.com chocolate together

On Board

BY LINDA GARSON I PHOTOGRAPHY BY DONG KIM

J

ane and Dave Omar started Edmonton’s Grazeyeg with a vision of “creating the mood through food”, believing every bite of their charcuterie boards should be shared with the people who mean the most.

Purposeful placement is their key to the perfect board: “The meat and cheese are really the stars of the show,” they say. “Space them in a way that flows on the board, keeping in mind shapes and angle. Dips, condiments, fruits, vegetables, nuts and sweets are your accent pieces and should highlight the board with colour and texture.”

They’ve created a board for Spring, with fresh berries, tender baby pea shoots, and their signature salami “wild rose” to remind us that fresh flowers are not far away.

The Omars’ board includes: CHARCUTERIE: Fennel Salami: VDG Salumi’s best seller, Finnocchiona is sweet with a bit of heat, aromatic, gluten- and dairy-free.

Prosciutto Domestica: less salty than Proscuitto Parma, this little gem hails from the Italian Centre shop in downtown Edmonton.

Cacciatore Venetian Sausage: wild boar with pork fat, accented with hints of caraway and coriander.

Brandy and White Wine Cured Salami Rose: a Grazeyeg signature!

CHEESE: Manchego: a Spanish sheep cheese classic, and Chef Dave’s all-time favourite. Salty and earthy to pair well with fresh fruit and a crisp chardonnay.

Cahill Irish Porter Cheddar: pasteurised milk from grass-fed cows and porter, vegetarian.

Le Petit Brie: rich and creamy, and a classic on any charcuterie board.

Port Wine Derby: smooth and creamy, Derby cheese marbled with a Port infusion.

28 Culinaire | April 2021

ACCOMPANIMENTS: Sourdough: Jane Omar spent the last year perfecting her sourdough.

La Panzanella: cracked pepper artisanal crackers – light, savoury and spicy.

Vanilla Pear Preserve: this house made preserve has become a fan favourite.

Roasted Red Pepper Dip: the very same that the Italian Centre Shops use for their sandwiches.

Fresh Fruit and Nuts: figs, star fruit, blackberries (so pretty cut in half), strawberries, tamari almonds, pistachios, pea shoots, raspberries, tomatoes, blueberries, dried apricots.

Leave the cooking to us!

Let the Calgary Zoo’s award-winning culinary team prepare a meal for you!

From our amazing curbside seasonal meals for those special nights to the onsite restaurant reopening soon.

Check calgaryzoo.com for more details.

The Small but Mighty Mushroom: Are fungi the key to a healthy belly and a happy planet?

BY SABRINA KOOISTRA

Highline Mushrooms

M

ushrooms are having a moment, and new varieties like oyster and lion’s mane are giving meat a run for their money.

Many gourmet mushrooms add an earthy or nutty flavour, and for vegetarians, a great, meat-textured protein to press together into steaks or shred, like pork. They’re an affordable, clean protein, wellness shot, and earth healer, and they aren’t going away anytime soon – especially with many grow-at-home kits allowing us to take part in the farm-to-table movement in our own backyards. Luckily for us, Alberta is also home to many young, inspired, and passionate growers who are making a large-scale difference – one mushroom at a time.

For Chantal Wang, of Planet Mushrooms, growing fungi was simply walking in her parents’ mushroom-

30 Culinaire | April 2021

growing footsteps. 10 years ago, she left China to study at the University of Alberta, but she struggled to find the mushrooms she used to eat. Alberta’s climate resembled her home in China, so she started growing her own mushrooms, eventually selling them at farmer’s markets.

Some were skeptical of the mysterious mushrooms, but with the help of Albertans’ growing interest and Wang’s love of “the great fungi world,” Planet Mushrooms was born. Today, Wang grows shiitake, oyster, shimeji, enoki, reishi, and turkey tail mushrooms, to help you spice up a dish and shake up your proteins. She’s continuing to add to her inventory of mushroom grow kits, and is in the process of developing mushroom extracts to help with anxiety, immunity, and memory.

With plans to expand to Calgary

markets, she invites customers to explore.

You can find info on new products, mushroom research, and recipes in her e-newsletters (go to the footer of planetmushrooms.com to sign up!). Most of all, “be brave and be curious,” she says, “after you try them, you will be so surprised because they taste so good.”

Nearly 60 years ago, Dr. Murray Roy O’Neil dreamt of a future of healthy

protein and clean production, and this passion and drive soon turned into Highline Mushrooms, the world’s largest organic mushroom farm. Today, Highline Mushrooms has farms across Canada, including one in Crossfield, near Airdrie, where Albertans can pick up fresh mushrooms. The Highline Mushrooms line-up includes button, mini bella, portobello, shiitake, enoki, oyster mushrooms, as well as king oyster, and with the help of Dutch growing techniques, the company grows millions of nutrient-packed, recycle-loving fungi on a one-acre plot.

Highline Mushrooms is also committed to continuing its waterconscious operation using evaporation to ensure no freshwater is wasted. And to further give back to Albertans, the nitrogen-rich soil left behind after their harvests is gifted to community gardens to keep the cycle of local, healthy, earthfriendly food going.

Alberta is also home to many young, inspired, and passionate growers But this isn’t it for Highline Mushrooms. Dr. O’Neil’s dreams live on, and the company is always looking for ways to “embrace every opportunity to grow,” says Marketing Manager Stephanie Myles, “to grow as a company, grow our communities, and grow pretty amazing mushrooms.”

For husband and wife duo, Rachel and Carleton Gruger, the future is fungi.

With a passion for clean protein, wellness, affordability, and sustainability, the two set out in 2017 to establish Gruger Family Fungi to share their love of mushrooms with others. According to Rachel, “it was a no brainer.”

In 2018, their first mushrooms sprouted, bringing about an eventual expansion into king, gold, pink, and blue oysters, as protein alternatives as well as

Four types of Fungi, Gruger Fungi

Red Fox Fungi: Cole Aube, Janine Aube, Brad Wandzura and Austin Aube

lion’s mane, reishi, and cordyceps for a boost to mental health, immunity, and energy, respectively. To shake things up, Gruger Family Fungi also offers an array of products, including Umami Bomb spices, dry oyster mix, reishi tea, and king mushroom flour, or you can try their mushrooms fresh. They’ve also got recipes on their website like Rainy Day Blue Mushroom soup to help you get started.

If you fancy a farm-to-table mushroom patch of your own, Gruger Family Fungi offers mycologs for the spring and summer months. It’s all part of their mission: “keep providing nutrition in uncertain times,” Rachel says. “Healing the earth … and providing good food people can trust.”

Just outside Strathmore is Red Fox Fungi, a small operation with big dreams run by Janine Aube and Brad Wandzura.

The two met while in law enforcement, but after visiting Wandzura’s property in 2018, Aube saw an opportunity: gourmet mushrooms, and more specifically, pink and blue oyster and lion’s mane mushrooms.

A mechanic by trade, Wandzura

balanced his corrections job with building their equipment and facilities, and Aube now works full-time on the marketing and value-added side. They’re the yin and yang of the Alberta mushroom game, and a force to be reckoned with. Sustainability has become a buzzword, but Aube and Wandzura have vowed to be ahead of the curve: they use biodegradable fruiting bags and purchase honey from a beekeeper up the road (rather than plastic petri dishes) to grow the mushrooms’ growing base, mycelium. In the spring, Red Fox Fungi also offers gardening soil from their fruiting bags that you can pick up by donating to Kids Cancer Care.

A past collaboration with Inglewood’s Cold Garden (a lion’s mane mushroom and chocolate, dark beer!), grow-at-home mushroom kits, and ‘seconds’ mushroom spices now available means we can expect exciting things from Red Fox Fungi in the years to come.

Sabrina is a freelance writer pursuing a Communications and History double major at U of C. She is passionate about uncovering the ways in which history, tradition, and food shape our identities.

Mark O’Brien, Highline Mushrooms April 2021 | Culinaire 31

F

or a long time, the nonalcoholic beer category was the lowest of the low and generally offered a miserable beverage experience.

As quality has improved along with the science, the category has increased significantly allowing well-crafted products to have an alternative place in the hands or glasses of consumers who may sometimes want to enjoy something without alcohol or even those people who like the taste of beer, but for whatever reason, are avoiding alcohol.

Here in Canada, products with less than 1.1 percent alcohol by volume can state that they are alcohol free on the label, and can also be sold at grocery stores or other stores that don’t have an alcohol license.

It’s worth repeating, these products have little to no alcohol, which is part of what makes beer a beer, so in some ways they could be “missing” something on the palate.

Partake Brewing India Pale Ale (0.3 percent), Canada One of the best non-alcholic beers around, the solid hop presence on the nose is always promising, and the fruitiness and bitterness of the hops on the palate make up for a number of the shortcomings of lowalcohol beer. Again, crisp and refreshing for those that like an IPA fairly hoppy.

CSPC +827811 4-pack cans, $9-10

32 Culinaire | April 2021

Refreshing

Non Alcoholic Beers Svaneke Organic Pale Ale (less than 0.5 percent), Denmark Really quite tasty and with a deep, bready, and expressive nose and palate. In the glass, where the true battle is won, this is barely recognizable as having no alcohol and has a pleasing and tasty palate. Best of all is the crisp and lively finish. Organic too, if that helps sway you.

CSPC +839395 500 mL bottle $5-6

Nøgne Stripped Craft Alcohol Free Lime Infused Ale (0 percent alcohol), Norway While this certainly has the ale part locked down, it’s what has been added that makes this stand out, not what is missing. A good, lighter-bodied ale is brought to life by the tart lime notes from the lime juice and lime zest.

I’d drink this as a nice dry alternative to a beer almost any day of the week.

CSPC +1396913 330 mL bottle, $4

Kronenbourg 1664 Blanc Alcohol Free (0.5 percent), France A flavoured, alcohol-free beer with a great mouthfeel and a rather coconut-driven, tropical flavour to go with the citrus and coriander. Honestly, the lack of alcohol was rather subtle, making for an almost coolerlike experience rather than a beer alternative.

CSPC +826216 6-pack bottles, $15-16

Village Local Non-Alcoholic Stout (0.1 percent), Alberta From Calgary’s Village Brewery, the Local is a rich stout showing off espresso bean and mild hop notes. On the palate, it’s got the weight and flavours you’d expect, but without the alcohol; in many regards it tastes like a black lager. Rather refreshing.

CSPC +830310 4-pack cans, about $12

...and Ready to Drink

T

he beverage category, which used to be dominated by Bartles & James wine coolers, and later Smirnoff Ice and Mike’s Hard Lemonade has been really exploding these past few years.

Most notable is really how far they’ve come. Sugars are more in balance as manufacturers work with higher quality ingredients including the base spirit, and these products compete better against beer and wine than they used to. The coolest part? Many of the best gracing our shelves these days are made right here in Alberta.

Troubled Monk Epitaph Gin & Soda From the fine folks at Red Deer’s Troubled Monk Brewery comes a fresh batch of very new offerings. Their Gin & Soda (CSPC +844966) is based around their Epitaph Gin, and has about 5 percent alcohol but no sugar, no calories, and no carbs. Pretty subtle on the palate, the only thing it’s missing is a garnish of lime.

Also available is their Adequate Vodka Soda (CSPC +838904), which is perfectly balanced with citrus, and Troubled Tea (CSPC +819955), a hard iced tea that is hard to put down. And, they are currently offering free home delivery to Calgary on Fridays!

6 pack cans, around $15-17 Collective Arts Dry Gin and Soda Grapefruit, Lemon & Thyme We tasted two flavours around the Culinaire offices (the Grapefruit, Lemon & Thyme and the Raspberry and Bitter Orange) and were suitably impressed. Tasting of premium ingredients and wonderfully well balanced, they are both quaffable and delicious without too much sweetness. Something good to have on hand to evoke the summer months or just for ahem… chilling out.

CSPC +829927 and +829928 4-pack cans, about $15-17

BY TOM FIRTH

Grizzly Paw Brewery Mountain Mule A ready to drink Moscow Mule, using Grizzly Paw’s own ginger beer and locally made vodka comes together as a spicy and refreshing tipple. I’ve long been a fan of a number of their beers (and sodas), but these might just be the way to go this summer.

Ringing in with about 5.5 percent alcohol, so not too strong either. (CSPC +808941), also available as a Grizzly Greyhound (CSPC +821580) and a Gin Squeeze (CSPC +835237) 4 pack cans, about $15-17 Eau Claire Equinox Mule A product that gets plenty of play around my home in the warmer months, the Equinox Mule (CSPC +815460). Using the intensely flavoured and rather aromatic Eau Claire Prickly Pear EquinOx vodka and Annex Ale’s ginger beer, it’s a sweeter drink than some, but totally well-suited to a scorching hot day. Also available from the talented team at Eau Claire? A very convenient Parlour Gin & Tonic (CSPC +802299), and a very smashable Spruce Berry Smash (CSPC +831358) 4 pack cans, around $15-17 April 2021 | Culinaire 33

A Year Like No Other

BY DAVID NUTTALL

I

f you are reading this in the spring of 2021, you have just lived past the anniversary of COVID19 becoming a major part of life. In Alberta, the first case was identified on March 5, 2020 and throughout that month various restrictions were enacted regarding businesses, schools, offices, stores, events, and personal gatherings. While liquor stores would remain open, the closure of restaurants, bars, breweries, distilleries and the cancellation of events, had a huge impact on the liquor industry.

Through most of last March, people were panic buying liquor like it was toilet paper. Once the government declared liquor stores an essential service, things quieted down a little.

Nevertheless, that did not help the foodservice industry that lost their dine-in customers. To remain open, locations had to develop a carry out

34 Culinaire | April 2021

and/or delivery service and plunge into survival mode.

When it was announced that liquor off-sales could be included with delivery and pick up, it helped allay the bleeding a little. However, lost sales due to two (later four) months of mandated closures will never be recovered. Statistics Canada reported eating and drinking establishment sales across the country fell by 28.2 percent compared to 2019, the largest drop on record. Bars, taverns, catering, and food trucks were the most affected, with sales dropping 48.3 percent in 2020. No doubt the foodservice and hospitality industries were among the hardest impacted by COVID-19, leading to layoffs, the permanent closure of several locations, and putting many newly planned locations on hold.

With a lost summer festival season, sagging tourism and no foreign visitors,

restaurants, breweries, and other producers had to get creative. Dine-in capacity and hours were restricted, so deliveries became the essential connection to the community, while social media disseminated information to the masses.

Many consumers did favour locally owned establishments over national and multinational businesses, attempting to support the neighbourhood “little guy”. When the second closure came in December many locations were better prepared than in the spring. However, reopening also comes with additional expenses, from cleaning to construction requirements and other logistical issues needed to become Alberta Health Services compliant.

For Alberta liquor producers, the whole year was rife with havoc.

No one had ever been through a pandemic before, and certainly none had “outright closure” built into their business plans. Most producers are so new to the scene, they are constantly adjusting production levels, recipes, and suppliers with other unforeseen factors. Breweries, especially, depend on taproom traffic and keg sales to restaurants and other locations for much of their business. Remove that supply line and growler fills just don’t cut it by themselves. Many breweries turned their excess beer supply into hand sanitizer and donated it for free.

Alberta craft breweries made up for volume by producing variety; regularly brewing an assortment of new beers to keep their customers engaged.

Liquor stores stay busy throughout the pandemic since many consumers

take to drinking at home instead of going out. This actually stretches their purchasing power, as exemplified by the year-end statistics. Alberta Gaming, Liquor and Cannabis reports the volume of liquor sales grew by just over 4 percent in 2020 compared to 2019.

All liquor categories, except beer, showed an increase in sales, led by coolers (+62 percent) and tequila/ mezcal (+14 percent), despite some supply issues throughout the year (due to several factors beyond COVID).

Even the formally stagnant vodka category grew by 13 percent, driven by those interested in making homemade infusions or sanitizers. Wine sales increased by 2.3 percent, with Canadian wines (read: BC) leading the way (+4 percent). Beer was the only category that fell in volume (-3 percent), mostly hitting the big producers who lost their restaurant accounts for a quarter of the year and all their events, from festivals to professional sports.

For Alberta liquor producers, the whole year was rife with havoc Losing the Calgary Stampede and Edmonton K-Days alone disrupts Molson and Labatt more than it does craft breweries. Alberta craft breweries and distilleries still grew in number, with more than a dozen locations opening in 2020. Not quite equal to the average of over three dozen producers per year that opened between 2016

Mill Street Brewery

and 2019, but that level of growth was unsustainable over the long term. Alberta did lose three breweries (Calgary’s Caravel and Mill Street, and Sylvan Lake’s Undercurrent) to closure, and another (Banded Peak of Calgary) was purchased by Labatt. There are still dozens of new locations on the drawing board, biding their time until things return to “normal”.

Liquor agencies and importers certainly didn’t do too much damage to their promo budgets in 2020. With all festivals and trade shows cancelled after February, and no formal or informal tastings allowed, many transitioned to virtual events, which let consumers purchase sample packs through liquor stores and then log on to a special website that brought the speaker into

their home to guide and educate. In late 2020, the AGLC permitted liquor stores to repackage and reseal bottles into sample sizes, thus expanding the options available.

As 2021 progresses, our lives are still in a holding pattern. Our restaurants, liquor stores, agencies, and producers are still in uncharted waters. So even after current restrictions are well in our rear view mirror, continue to support as many local services, suppliers, and manufacturers as you can. Their very existence relies on you.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary.

Follow him @abfbrewed

April Spirits

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

W

e’ve been feeling a little too much like homebodies over the winter months, and needed a gentle reminder of exotic and distant locales. So, this month, as we once again undergo the slow transition in Alberta between winter and spring, we’re sharing spirits from South Korea, Wales, and Mexico to help us connect to the world.

Hwayo 25, South Korea We’re really enjoying this new-to-Alberta premium soju, from South Korea. Maybe not as well known as sake, soju is made from many grains, even sweet potato too!

Hwayo is made from high-grade rice, and distilled under vacuum, which boils at a lower temperature and creates a really clear and clean spirit – also maybe due to the natural rock water from 150 metres below ground.

The 25 has depth and a flavourful purity – it’s not only a great sipping soju, but it also makes a mean mojito!

CSPC +835330 $62-67

Penderyn Distillery Myth, Wales So happy to see Penderyn whisky here in Alberta; “Waterfalls, moorland and hillsides – wild Wales at its best.” In a striking box, proudly displaying the red dragon of the Welsh national flag, Myth is silky smooth, sweet at first, and then fruity – please don’t add ice or water as it’s a lighter style, just enjoy as I’m doing right now. Myth is a single malt whisky that is so easy to drink, and with a personal connection to the area - I’m not sharing. Lloniannau!

CSPC +842301 $67-$70

Hwayo 41, South Korea Moving up in alcohol by volume, Hwayo 41 is very much more a sipping spirit. After fermentation and distillation, the spirit rests in “ongi” for six months, the porous Korean clay pots that allow the spirit to breathe. It has a fascinating aroma of anis, yet with an underlying earthiness from the rice - and is still super clean tasting. Perfect with ice, as a shot, and with fresh sashimi; we tried it with sparkling yuzu and it’s a terrific aperitif too.

CSPC +835328 $85-90

Penderyn Distillery Portwood, Wales We celebrated St. David’s Day (March 1), and the 17th anniversary of Wales’ first whisky distillery in more than 100 years, with this whisky – Portwood, the most premium of the Penderyn range. The nose makes you want to dive straight in with its chocolate and red berry fruity aromas, but savour… You’ll love the honey sweetness so evident when sipping it neat, and as it’s 46 percent ABV, I’ll allow you just a few drops of pure water to open it up.

CSPC +842303 $134-$140

Casa Pecados Tequila Reposado, Mexico We love introducing you to brand new products into Alberta, and this artisan reposado is worth talking about. It has an alluring nose of butterscotch and vanilla pudding, along with a little bosc pear, and in the mouth it’s really soft and buttery.

It spends a couple of months in American oak – enough to intensify the flavour of the blue agave and lend a slight smoky finish. It’s definitely a sipping tequila, for one of those contemplative and appreciative nights.

CSPC +844269 $85

Don Mateo de la Sierra Mezcal Cupreata, Mexico The primary difference between mezcal and tequila is that with mezcal, the agave is cooked prior to fermentation, lending additional flavours and nuance to the spirit.

Mezcal can have a stronger, more robust character than many tequilas, but don’t let that dissuade you from trying this rich, smoky, saline, and earthy spirit. Fruits have a decidedly grapefruit approach with peppery spice and a long finish. Very cool.

CSPC +824567 $97-105

36 Culinaire | April 2021

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MAKING THE CASE

for solid, good value, white wines

By TOM FIRTH This month, white wines have been on my mind. While there is a wonderful world of great red wines out there, often they get all the glory while the variety of white wines are overshadowed by simple, crushable pinot gris and the like. This month, there are more than a few wonderful, well-priced chardonnays, which are perfect for these beautiful, frosty-brown sort of days.

You know, it’s probably going to snow once or twice in April, being Alberta and all, so it’s a great month to start thinking about the warmer weather on the way, patio dining, or even chilling on the deck watching the snow melt. This month’s wines focus a little more on well-known grapes from solid, reputable producers with an emphasis on good value.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Calliope 2018 Figure 8 British Columbia

Mostly pinot gris and viognier – both varietals that thrive in the Okanagan, this blend is all about checking off the right boxes for a warm weather sipper. All the bright fruit of the pinot gris with the peach and power of good viognier, wrapped up in a silky, fresh palate that will do very well paired with lighter seafood dishes, poultry, or even some chips on the deck. It’s a party pleaser.

CSPC +333880 $18-21

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

38 Culinaire | April 2021

Jim Barry 2019 Watervale Riesling Clare Valley, Australia

Australia might not spring to mind when it comes to riesling, but a number of appellations “down under” are wellsuited to this incredible variety. Rather dry on the palate with a good blend of tart apple and lime fruits with a clean, zesty mineral laden finish. Pretty damned good for any day of the week.

CSPC +814597 $24-28

Santa Julia 2020 Pinot Grigio Mendoza, Argentina

A wonderful quaffer of a pinot grigio, and one accented by zesty, prominent citrus flavours. It’s got a little more of the brightness and structure that some French pinot gris or some Canadian examples might have over one from Argentina, but it’s exceptional value and should be on hand for when the need arises, especially on a summery evening.

CSPC +749041 $15-18

Bartier Brothers 2019 Semillon Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Semillon is such a wonderful grape, and one that stands alone (without sauvignon blanc as in white Bordeaux) so well. Lemon and lanolin lead off the nose with a strong mineral presence and just a pinch of tropical fruit. On the palate dry, with excellent mouthfeel and a deep citrus character. Damn good, it’s calling out for roasted poultry, freshwater fish, or salty snacks.

CSPC +244137 About $24-26

Hillside Estates 2019 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Bartier Brothers 2019 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

CSPC +505206 $20-24

CSPC +877373 About $24-26

Absolutely stunning on the nose with quince and lychee fruits and a decidedly summery floral bouquet. Quite dry, but certainly not bone-dry, this is a rich and expressive bottle of BC gewürztraminer that would be just at home on the deck or patio as it would over the dinner table with sushi, salads, or fresh fruit.

Zuccardi 2020 “Q” Chardonnay Uco Valley, Argentina

Imagery 2018 Sauvignon Blanc California

Done well, gewürztraminer is all about spice and bright tropical fruits, and never flabby on the palate. Beautiful and intense on the nose with a pinch of sweetness on the palate, but expertly balanced by the zesty acids. This wine will be a lovely match with some Asian inspired fusion cuisine, or lighter seafood dishes.

A zesty and clean sauvignon blanc with lemon, gooseberry and quince aromas.

On the palate, the profile is a little less citrus driven, but still crisp and tropical. A rather smash-able sauvignon blanc, well suited to a warm evening and a little nosh like summer salads, or finger foods.

William Hill 2018 Chardonnay North Coast, California

Louis Latour Bourgogne Chardonnay Burgundy, France

CSPC +775809 $21-24

CSPC +55533 $24-27

CSPC +822511 $22-26

Argentinian wine is so much more than just malbec, and it warms my heart when other grapes show off what else this wine producing country is capable of. A crisp and rather juicy chardonnay with a smidge of buttery or vanilla bean flavours. A crowd-pleasing style of chardonnay that would match up nicely with grilled seafood or some pork kebabs.

This was a rather new bottle to me that I hadn’t tried before, and it certainly stands out from the others on this page. Creamy, yet tart with denser fruit presence on the palate but also a stronger oak character steering the profile away from vanilla and moving into toasty, biscuity flavours.

Comes together nicely at all stages, but I’d lean towards pairing this with stronger flavoured foods.

Noble Ridge 2019 “Noble” Stony Knoll Chardonnay, Okanagan Falls British Columbia

Yalumba 2019 The Y Series Viognier South Australia

Mer Soleil 2018 Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands, California

CSPC +624502 $18-21

CSPC +453142 $39-42

CSPC +842785 About $23-26

A rather new offering from BC’s Noble Ridge, the “Noble” wines are presenting wonderful value and some of that OK Falls terroir. Aptly described as having a “hint of oak” which allows the brighter, tropical fruits to shine through on the nose and palate with just a touch of creaminess. This wine has tremendous versatility at the table too.

CSPC +769514 $26-28

One of my favourite white grapes, viognier is a never a wallflower, but often the wine in the centre of the room with a heck of a story to tell. Peaches and nectarines lead off on the nose with intense floral tones and a lot of lime zest. The palate is dry and brassy with abundant fruit and a mild oily texture.

Big and wonderful, it will complement all manner of fruit dishes or poultry.

There are perhaps some arguments that the whites of Burgundy in France are still the highest expression of chardonnay, and in many cases, the Burgundian style is the perfect balance of fruit and oak for the grape. Latour here is exceptionally well priced with good tropical fruits and a fair bit of oak lending creaminess and toasted, almost nutty notes to the finish.

Lovely juice.

Once, Mer Soleil was almost impossible to keep in stock, as fans of big, buttery chardonnay love this benchmark example.

Many consumers have since moved on to other grapes, but Mer Soleil is still a paradigm of the oak-driven style. Creamy tropical fruits of pineapple and banana with pear and apple fruits and abundant oak flavours, this will pair with roasted poultry, steaks, and even lobster tails.

April 2021 | Culinaire 39

E TC E TE R A . . .

Seven Spice Chili Oil

We’d heard great things about this chilli oil, and recently we came across a jar at the Italian Centre Shop – and boy are we glad! We’re now big fans, it’s everything you want it to be. After getting frustrated at the dearth of high quality chilli oil, Calgary’s Natalia Lazic went ahead and made it herself for friends and family. Her reputation spread, demand skyrocketed, and we’re not the slightest bit surprised that it’s now found all over Alberta as well as online at sevenspice.com. Hot or mild 227 g, $7-8.

Orgali

After battling some serious family health issues, Alina Muresan redirected her energy into holistic nutrition - consulting, advising, and teaching, and ultimately creating a line of nutrient-rich and allergen-free, frozen soups and stews, ready meals, snacks and desserts. We’ve tried a few of them, and they not only taste delicious, they taste “clean”, and we can confidently recommend them. Delivered to your home, or can be purchased in Calgary, Three Hills, Carstairs, and Red Deer. $5-15 orgali.ca.

Booze Cruise: A Tour of the World’s Essential Mixed Drinks

There aren’t many books like this, a mixed drink guide to the globe told entirely within the lens of the imbiber.

Each drink is presented within the context of the city or country from the base spirit, the history or the rationale, or even just “why”. Somewhat fantastic, is that it truly is a tour around the world via mixed drinks.

Canada is represented by Toronto, and the United States is represented by New Orleans and New York, the rest? It’s a wide wonderful world shared by author André Darlington. Running Press $30

111 Places in Calgary That You Must Not Miss

Depending on who you asked, the arrival of this guide from Jennifer Bain recently was either prophetic or downright unlucky. But as we gradually turn the corner on Covid19, the time is ripe to get (back) out there and explore the Stampede City. With something for everyone, and in every corner of the city, each place is skilfully expanded upon giving history, insight, or trivia and accompanied by excellent photography. Whether a newly arrived Calgarian or if you still remember the Channel 2&7 song, you’ll appreciate this. Emons: $27

Yves Veggie Cuisine, Veggie Chorizo Ground Sausage

We’re impressed with the new plant-powered chorizo sausage from Yves Veggie Cuisine; it’s a terrific substitute for the real thing. Chilli and paprika, along with cinnamon and cloves, provide the recognisable chorizo taste, and it has a lovely chewy texture from the non-GMO soy. The pack will tell you all about it being a great source of fibre and protein, but we just like the flavour and how well it works in our chilli, on nachos and tacos, and even on our paella! $5, widely available.

Whittaker’s Chocolate

Celebrating 125 years of bean-to-bar chocolate making, Whittaker’s is expanding and has launched a website just for Canada. We’ve been sampling a taste of New Zealand, enjoying 200 g bars of Coconut Block - creamy milk chocolate with crunchy coconut; Dark Almond - rich 62 percent cocoa dark chocolate with whole roasted almonds, and 50 g Peanut Slabs – whole peanuts joined together by milk chocolate! All palm oil-free, carefully sourced, and widely available across Alberta. $2-7. See whittakerschocolate.com 40 Culinaire | April 2021

Boursin Dairy-Free Garlic & Herbs

Lazy Bake

The lockdowns of last year provided more time for home baking, and Lazy Bake’s Katie Duffin took advantage of it, branching out to offer baking kits for us to make at home too. A few simple steps and maybe an egg and a little butter, will soon have tempting smells drawing everyone to the kitchen to sample your brownies, snickerdoodles, chai cookies and more. We tried the chocolate chip cookies as well as the gluten-free version – and we enjoyed them equally!

Kits $8-12 at lazybake.com.

A classic on our cheese boards, it’s hard to imagine how Boursin can offer a dairy-free version of their soft and creamy cheese – but the good news is, they’ve done it! While the texture is quite different, and more of a spread than a cream cheese, the flavour is all there, even swapping coconut oil for the milk and cream of the original, and it comes in a recyclable plastic tub instead of foil-wrapped and boxed. A very viable plant-based alternative.

170 g, $7 at Real Canadian Super Store.

Rad Cocktails

Feeling a little cooped up after a long winter and an even longer 2020? Rad cocktails might help you up your cocktail game or even get you into the game if you aren’t mixing your own drinks at home. Presented in a simple, easy to follow format, Rad Cocktails

by Amanda Greenbaum has got you covered for straightforward cocktails that also look great and don’t need a lot of hard-to-find ingredients. This might be your go-to drinking guide for summer 2021. Palmetto $34

O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with Justin Darnes

G

BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

rowing up in England as a dyslexic child, Justin Darnes never did well at school. He was praised for the first time when studying media at college, resulting in the highest grades ever for the course, and a passion for TV and radio.

Fortunately, in his teens he’d worked in pubs, as on graduating film school it was hard to find work. “Most people moonlight as a bartender, but I moonlighted as a filmmaker for 12 years,” he laughs. He moved to London, got a job in a cocktail bar, and learned the hard way. “I got my foundation, and that set me up for the rest of my career.”

Eventually Darnes realized his passion had changed. “It was really the encouragement I was getting, people wanted me to make drinks for them. I was praised for my cocktails and banging my head against the wall trying to get into movies.” A position at the trendy, vegan restaurant, SAF, set him along a new path as they used molecular techniques to create the dishes, and he started hand-crafting his own ingredients too. It attracted a lot of attention, and he started to make a name for himself.

At the time, the Savoy Hotel had closed for renovations, and when it was to reopen three years later, now he was in demand, Darnes decided to apply. From 8,000 applicants, and after five hours of interviews and an online psychological exam, he was offered one of the four bartender positions, opening on 10/10/2010.

“I only managed a year there because I wanted to move to Vancouver. My visa

42 Culinaire | April 2021

options were running out, so I moved one week before my 30th birthday,” Darnes explains. “The Savoy on your resume opens a lot of doors, and since then I’ve been all around the world. I did the anniversary of the Apollo 13 space mission in Texas, and also consultancy in Hong Kong.”

Cocktail Concierge’s focus is bottled cocktails and consultancy. “My ambition for over 10 years is to build a platform for many cocktail-related projects, and I see this as my opportunity to pay it forward by helping those people that have huge potential but never really been encouraged,” says Darnes.

“There weren’t many things in my life that I was recognized for being good at, and it was hard on me. I feel like it’s been a constant theme throughout my life. Bartending just happened, and I’m thankful to be able to do what I think I was born to do – creativity, find an avenue for it and get praise for it.”

So what bottle is Darnes saving for a special occasion?

In his early days Darnes didn’t understand cognac until he was invited to visit the area. “And from that day on,

I’m sold. I love it,” he says. While running a bar in Kitsilano, he started “break-even bottle” industry nights, buying one special bottle and selling it by the ounce at cost.

“Delamain Réserve de la Famille was the bottle that I wanted for myself. They used to select one barrel of exceptional cognac to serve to friends, and in the mid ‘80s, they decided to sell this to the public,” explains Darnes. “It’s from 1952, and naturally 42 percent ABV after the angel’s share - no water added, it’s pure cognac. They only produced 180 bottles and I have bottle number one. I put dibs on the last two ounces. I put it on social media and lots of people wanted to come; the first guy bought me an ounce too. I tasted it at the time, but I saved the rest for a special day; it could well be the last three ounces in the world.”

Darnes doesn’t know when he’ll drink the cognac as he gave up drinking five years ago. “I felt like I’ve got to reach my potential, and I have to focus now on building and getting where I want to be,” he says. “Eventually, when I’ve achieved what I want to achieve, then I’d like to have another go at drinking, but in a good way.”

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