the
September 19, 2015
w o r t n fro
coterie +sole commerce
splash fashion
it’s time for spring 2016 tommy hilfiger
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S p r i n g
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2 0 1 6
Showing at: Booths 7714 & 7815, LEVEL 3 COTER I E
NY + North East
Sue Lang
Molly Hurley 678 5961179
207 3639156
West Coast
J AV I T S
Jamie Prince
Mid West Julie Kipta 219 7621442
CENTER
213 6277136
Mid Atlantic
Janine Weil 212 7681016
South West Pamela Kramer 214 6308779
South East
Canada Euromax 514 2888001
Ronen Chen Head Office: +972 3 5188433 alexa@ronenchen.com Ronen Chen USA Office: 203 5574052 stacey@ronenchen.com
Booth #1933
amymatto.com
the
RETAILER REPORT! With Roopal Patel, newly appointed fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue
Congrats on your new role! It’s a whirlwind, but I’m so excited. I feel the best way to get into this position is to hit the ground running. What did you love on the runways this season? At Altuzarra, everything felt so effortless and easy and wearable. I liked Public School’s transformation in women’s as well. Tome brought a new glamorous sensibility, and I really like Jason Wu’s homage to femininity. Rosie Assoulin is always on my radar—she’s one of my favorites. What are your goals for Saks? Sorry if it’s too early to ask! Saks is going through a period of change and reinvention. I really want to support emerging talent.
blooming obsession!
With Lindsay Ellingson at the Kate Spade NYFW presentation Good to see you! You’re going to ask me what my favorite flower is, right? Nope! What flowers are you turned off by? Orchids. They take so much effort to water. I travel so much—I need a flower keeper. What’s your favorite florist in New York? Spruce is great. We’ll put this in print and get you a discount! Awesome! Unlimited roses!
TOMMY TIME! With Tommy Hilfiger
Great to see you, Tommy! The Daily has been so good to us! Thank you! Let’s talk collection. Island life. What do we want to do with the clothes to make them fun, wearable, and relevant for today. I spent a lot of time in the islands. I love St. Barth’s, Jamaica, Mustique. All the girls on the island were bohemian, hippie, a ’70s-inspired chic look. They do it in a very eclectic way. I wanted to create that.
mom’s TELL ALL! CLEMENTINE ROWLEY, mother of Cynthia Rowley BOOTHS 2120, 2014 Domicile: Barrington, Illinois, and Florida Profession: I’ve always been a fulltime mom. Talent scout: Cynthia started making her own clothes when she was 7. As a child: She was always energetic, very creative, with lots of friends and a positive outlook. She gets that from me! As a teenager: Very much of the same, but she was a little bit wilder. Her father had to bail her out of jail once. But she never gave up—she set goals and found ways to achieve them, and worked hard to get money for college. Treasured times: My favorite way to spend time with her is either preparing family meals or going to the beach. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
front row Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director
your daily dose TOMMY HILFIGER SPRING 2016 SHOW
SCENE
Another Coterie has arrived! Here are a few faves for the Spring 2016 season. ☛ ZAC ZAC Posen lit up the Fash Week runway with an LED dress worn by Coco Rocha. See what else is new with the label at Booth 3020! ☛ New kids on the block include Christina Karin (Booth 6841), Kay Goss (Booth 4248), Kempner (Booth 4834), and Likely (Booth 2126) ☛ First time showing alert! Norma Kamali’s latest designs are at Booth 3023. ☛ Kate Spade New York’s chic floral prints will be on display at booth 1820.
SISTER LOVE!
With Bella Hadid
How’d the show go for you? Honestly, so much fun! We got to be natural and beachy and do our own thing. [Stylist] Karl Templer was amazing. Did you walk in the water? It was pretty cold, but kind of refreshing. Once the adrenaline hit, I didn’t even notice. Were you worried about falling in the water? No! I know I had my girls around me to grab. If I’m falling, they are going with me. What’s it like having your sister Gigi backstage with you? It’s so comforting. It’s cool to have a buddy there to say, “I’m stressed or I’m worried! What do I do?” I love being around her.
Have you ever had water involved in a set before? No! We had to build a pool. We thought it would be great to have the girls walk through the water. Did you put your feet in the water? No! I’ve got my shoes on! And you had a bar! We re-created Basil’s Bar in Mustique. Mick Jagger and David Bowie would go there. Basil was in the bar on the set!
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Reporter Sydney Sadick Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva
Mark Tevis Publisher
Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Marketing Director Anna Lombardi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: mark@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row
PATRICIA TAYLOR, mother of Rebecca Taylor BOOTH 4604 Domicile: Wellington, New Zealand Profession: Retired Talent scout: Rebecca Rebecca and Patricia Taylor always liked dressing up from age of 3…and she always wanted to embellish her clothing with a fancy belt! As a child: She was very imaginative and very determined. As a teenager: She was creative and single-minded! Favorite collection: Every one has items I am really taken with. I still wear dresses of hers from 10 years ago. Treasured times: I enjoy spending time with her when we are with family, and also very much enjoyed spending time with her while she was preparing for a show, together with her inclusive and talented staff. Go-to pieces: Despite my age, I find that many of her pieces are well suited to me—particularly jackets and longer skirts.
The Daily Coterie is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
On the cover: Gigi Hadid at the Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2016 Collection show photographed by FirstView. bfanyc.com (25); getty images; all others courtesy
COTERIE BOOTH #4426
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WHO’S Showing
Welcome to day one of Coterie! As you stroll the trade show floor today, be sure to keep an eye out for these chic labels… Magaschoni
Torie Greenberg, Designer, and Jill Feigen, Director of Knitwear, Booth: 2735
Autumn Cashmere
Katherine Carpenter, CEO and Designer, Booth: 5123
What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives? Accessories...our poncho with a detachable fox fur collar, and our new fringe shawl. What is your design process like? We are very lucky that we are able to travel at the beginning of each season. Exploring new destinations, allows us to be inspired and sets the tone for the season. What is your favorite place in NYC to have a quiet moment? Norwood Club, an amazing 19th century brownstone in Chelsea. What’s unique to your designs? We have a close relationship with our factories and mills, so we can collaborate on developing new fabrics, yarns, and silhouettes. How would you describe your customer? She is active, stylish, confident, modern, and youthful. Who are your favorites to follow on Instagram? @Chrissyteigen, @Giambattistapr, and @CarrineRoitfeld, What are you reading right now? Waiting for My Journey, Donna Karan’s autobiography coming out in October.
RoNEn Chen
Ronen Chen, Designer and Owner, BoothS: 7714, 7815 Who would you like to see wearing your designs? This is going to sound a cliché but the truth is Kate Middleton Who is your dream collaboration? I would love to collaborate with a Japanese Origami master. What's next for your brand? Next month, we're launching a capsule collection that I designed in collaboration with an Israeli top model. What category would you like to add next to your label? People ask me why I don’t design menswear, as a lot of my inspiration is taken from the world of menswear, but mostly the construction. What I would like to do is design a small collection of unisex “gender-blender” pieces. Where can we find your collection globally? My core business is my 20 retail stores in Israel. In the U.S. my designs can be found in over 400 specialty stores. We are also present in the U.K. and Ireland. I’m proud to say that as of SS16 my designs will be in one of the top department stores in the U.K. We are very excited!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What first inspired you to be a designer? Barbie! Instead of a Wolfe dress form, I learned to drape and sew on Barbie. What is your favorite season to design for? What could be more fun than designing a chunky, cozy, sweater! What is your favorite trend this fall? I love the ’70s-inspired ribbed and layered head-to-toe knit dressing especially our own ribbed tunic and pants set featured in British Vogue! Who are your style icons? Gwen Stefani, Alexa Chung, St. Vincent, Ashley Olsen What is your favorite place in NYC to have a quiet moment? Does New York even have a quiet place? I prefer a remote beach like Cape Hatteras. What’s your favorite material to work with? Cashmere, especially chunky yarn counts. If you could make one trend disappear, what would it be? Bandage dresses! How do you stay energized this busy weekend? Talking to buyers. What's the best place you traveled to this year? Cornwall, UK What's your favorite season? I love fall in New York! It’s not too hot but it's not freezing yet so the latest fashions don’t get covered up.
all photos courtesy of the designers
PROMOTION
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COT ERIE B O O T H 2923 W W W. L E O A N D S A G E . C O M / @ L E O A N D S A G E / S A L E S @ L E O A N D S A G E . C O M / 2 1 2 . 9 5 1 . 0 8 5 0
ITALIAN FASHION EVENINGWEAR / LEVEL 1 SIVALIA
CONTEMPORARY / LEVEL 3
AMINA RUBINACCI * ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIU’ * BEATRICE B./SFIZIO * BESSI * BHAGS * BIANCALANCIA * CASHEART * DI BELLO BY NIPAL * FLORA FEDI * FRANCESCO GIRONACCI * GIRONACCI 1969 * MELA ROSA * MICHELE NEGRI * MISTERNIC * PAOLA TODESCO * PARRONCHI CASHMERE * PUROTATTO * SALDARINI - COMO * SHE’S SO * SPREAD * TRICOT CHIC * VIA MASINI 80 * VLT’S BY VALENTINA’S * WHYCI
COTERIE 10.75"x13.5" 4.indd 2
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PREMIUM ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE APPAREL
COTERIE BOOTH #6035
who’s Showing
Cooper & Ella
Leo & Sage
Kara Mendelsohn, Designer and Founder, Booth: 4934
Pauline Nakios, Co-Owner and Creative Director, Booth: 2923
What inspires you as a designer? Real women challenging themselves each day, leading very busy lives. I want to make getting dressed the easiest moment of their day. I want to make them look and feel confident. What is your favorite season to design for? Spring! It’s always fresh and fun. What inspired your Spring 2016 collection? Bold, vibrant colors. I’m in love with the palette—the line is just saturated with beautiful color. What’s next for your brand? We are growing at an incredible pace and adding new classifications each season. Rompers, skirts, and jumpsuits are all new for spring! What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives? This year, my Mother Denim bell jeans. I am so happy the wide leg is back! What is your favorite way to celebrate? Dinner and a bottle of wine with my husband. What has been your favorite trade show moment? When it’s over: I have two children, Cooper and Ella. When I'm not working, they keep me busy!
What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives? Sweaters! There’s nothing I look forward to more than wearing my heather gray cashmere sweaters, jeans, and my wornin black moto boots. What first inspired you to be a designer? Quite honestly, my own closet. My collections always stem from items I feel are missing. What is your design process like? It always starts with a great trip where I can clear my mind and be inspired by new people and places. I then work very closely with the design team to focus on key silhouettes that we feel are important for the collection. What is your favorite trend this fall? Culottes and cropped sweaters. What category would you like to add next to your label? Coats and jackets would be a great addition. We would approach it with a practical yet novel angle. What is your favorite way to celebrate? Friends, tequila, and a neighborhood restaurant so we can walk home!
Rudsak
Evik Asatoorian, Designer, Booth: 7010 What is your favorite season to design for? I love fall, from the changing leaves to the first snowflake. It’s a season that introduces wonderful knits and textures, and allows us to showcase our luxe-leather and outerwear. What inspired your Spring 2016 collection? This season, water inspired us throughout our creative process, yielding a collection that projects fluidity, purity, transparency, and movement, all while honoring the sophisticated and classically cool urban aesthetic that is Rudsak. What celebrities or influencers wear your brand? Given that much of our brand DNA is rooted in music, we’ve recently partnered with Emily Haines, the lead singer of Metric. She will be designing an iconic piece for the SS16 collection and we foresee similar partnerships in the future. Who is your social media crush? No one in particular and everyone. What is one thing most people do not know about you? I am absolutely a stickler for details. I'm a perfectionist and get actively involved in all aspects of the business—from high-level strategy to the size of a zipper on a purse.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Amy Matto Amy Matto, Designer, Booth: 1933
What inspired your Spring 2016 collection? A return to pretty! Out with the old, in with the new. What trends are you hoping to see for spring? Cute tops with matching and coordinating shorts. Easy-breezy but put together! Who are your style icons? I love Amal Clooney’s style. She always looks pulled together. What is your favorite place in NYC to have a quiet moment? Bergdorf! What is your earliest memory of fashion? I can tell you my favorite outfits that people wore when I was little: my halter top with matching shorts, my mother’s black jumpsuit, my friend’s prom dress... If you could see one trend come back, what would it be? Dressing for the occasion. People need to make an effort! How do you stay energized this busy weekend? I'm obsessed with my Thermos travel cup. It keeps my French press hot all day! What do you do in your free time? Spend it all with my family. PROMOTION
a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e sy o f t h e d e si g n e r s
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who’s Showing
Anatomie
Kate Boyer, CEO, and Shawn Boyer, Designer, Booth: 2932
escada sport
Daniel Wingate, Fashion Director, Booth: 4426 What do you listen to while you design? My heart and my head. What first inspired you to be a designer? My parents, both creative souls with a flair for life. What is your design process like? Dynamic, serious, and constant—normally I am working on three seasons at the same time! Who are your style icons? My mom, my sister, and my niece. What do you pull from your closet come fall? Cashmere.
Lancaster Paris Kasandra Carlson, VP of Sales and Marketing, Booth: 3520
What are the brand's plans to expand in the U.S. ? We have been experiencing steady growth in all of our markets since the launch of the brand in North America with specialty boutiques and chain stores. We are expanding into some online retailers and high-end hotel boutiques. We are currently in developing discussions with a few different department stores and expect to have something solidified shortly. We are looking to showcase our shop-in-shop concept and at the same time partner with the very best and most suitable retailers. What sets the brand's products apart from other leather and handbag designers'? Lancaster Paris is “true affordable luxury.” Embracing innovation, constant change, fashion consciousness between classically chic and major trends, Lancaster Paris has carved a niche for itself as one of the leading names in the French leather goods and accessible luxury markets. With our passion for quality and creativity, each handbag meets the needs of forward-thinking fashionistas and practicality enthusiasts alike. Who are some icons that have starred in your ads? Elsa Hosk, Karlie Kloss, and currently, Behati Prinsloo.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What first inspired you to be a designer? Kate: I was a competitive gymnast, coach, and fitness instructor, working to finish my Executive MBA. I was looking for high-end, durable, and form-flattering outfits. I met my husband who was designing menswear. We started using fabrics from Italy and France for performance and comfort. Dream collaboration? We’re living our dream collaboration with Inspirato, the dynamic luxury traveling club, and with NetJets, the leader in private aviation. Anatomie is their official travelwear concierge service. What inspired your Spring 2016 collection? A retreat to Lake Como with
our family, and our partner we collaborate with there, IC Bellagio. What’s next for your brand? Conquering the world, starting with France, Canada, New Zealand, and Australia, where we already have distributors in place. If you could see one trend come back, it would be... Old, original Prada Sport. Who are your style icons? Brunello Cucinelli, Prada, and Armani. What do you listen to while you design? Anything, from jazz to rock. Your favorite material to work with? High-tech stretch woven fabric.
ZAC Zac Posen
Zac Posen, Designer, Booth: 3020
What is the story behind your brand? We introduced ZAC Zac Posen in 2013, a collection of everyday pieces, marked by attention to detail, fit, and innovation. The collection offers wardrobe staples that transition seamlessly from day to evening, the perfect complement to the dramatic glamour of the Zac Posen collection. What first inspired you to be a designer? My father’s art. What inspired your Spring 2016 collection? This season culls inspiration from my numerous trips to the City of Angels: palm leaves, water, and animal prints add a playful touch of color. The relaxed Los Angeles mood is depicted by a meticulous play on texture that’s present within all categories, from the mix of suede and neoprene in the outerwear to leather, ton-sur-ton floral appliqués on the handbags to fuzzy knits and architectural tops in cotton and mesh. What’s next for your brand? We're excited to expand existing categories and tap into new ones soon. Who was your mentor? Rene Ricard. What is your favorite place in NYC to have a quiet moment? My studio on a Sunday morning. What is the last thing you Googled? ZAC Zac Posen. a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e sy o f t h e d e sign e r s
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who’s Showing Ekaterina Kukhareva
Ekaterina Kukhareva, Designer, Booth: 4548
What inspired your Spring collection? The richness of national costumes, cultural heritage, art, and objects of outstanding beauty. I try to push the boundaries by incorporating subtle elements of traditional and folk-inspired clothing into elegant eveningwear collections. What accessories will you be investing in this season? For me it’s all about playful, modern, and statement jewelry. Who’s your favorite model at the moment? I am obsessed with Lily-Rose Depp. What’s next on your list of places to travel? Paris for Fashion Week! Then I am off to Punta Cana, DR, to celebrate the end of the season. Who is your style icon? Grace Kelly is my all-time favorite. What category would you like to add next? I would love to add a kidswear line, especially for girls. The matching outfits for mums and daughters look really cute and are on trend. Your go-to relaxation spot in New York? I'm relatively new to the city, but I really love the Village. It reminds me of European cities. The strangest thing you’ve designed? Unrealistically high and quirky looking platforms, which were a concept for a runway show.
Ramy Brook
Ramy Sharp, Founder and Creative Director, Booth: 1610 What’s your favorite season to design for? It’s a tie between fall and summer—such different design processes, but equally as fun! What celebrities have worn your brand? Cindy Crawford, Julianna Margulies, and Lisa Edelstein, among others. Who would you like to see wearing your designs? Jennifer Aniston, Jennifer Lopez, and Beyoncé. What’s your earliest memory of fashion? My mother making matching clothes for me and my sisters when we were little. I remember her sitting at the sewing machine with her McCall patterns for our matching dresses. Who is your social media crush? The Fat Jew. What is the last movie you saw? Straight Outta Compton. Two thumbs up!
AnjÉ
Angela Brasington, Designer and Founder, Booth: 4744 What has been your favorite trade show moment? In February, Blake Lively was sweet enough to stop by our TMRW booth at Coterie! What celebrities or influencers wear your brand? Danielle Bernstein, @WeWoreWhat, and Ellery Lee, @ElleIsAlwaysHere How would you describe the woman who wears your brand? She’s a fashion-savvy, hardworking woman with an executive-level career who knows what she wants in life as well as her wardrobe. She is classy and sophisticated and enjoys hanging with the girls or main squeeze for bubbly after a long week. How do you stay energized this busy weekend? With quick power workouts in the morning and a strong cup of black coffee, a yogurt, and banana. What is your favorite city to visit? Florence, Italy.
Daniel Rainn Daniel Rainn, Creative Design Director, Booth: 6542
What first inspired you to be a designer? I’ve always enjoyed sketching. As a young boy it was more of architecture and art. The transition to fashion was an easy segue. I first became inspired by my mother’s and sister’s love of ’70s fashion. Who is your dream collaboration YSL or Alberta Ferretti. What inspired your Spring collection? The theme of the collection is Desert Meets City. Palm Springs is one of my favorite getaways. I am there quite often on the weekends, and become very inspired there by the desert, the relaxing way of life, and all the great vintage shopping. What is your design process like? I like to get inspired looking at art and architecture books, and magazines, with a glass of wine! Who’s your favorite model of the moment? Daria Werbowy. Your favorite material to use is... Silk. If you could see one trend return, what would it be? Shoulder pads!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e sy o f th e d e si g n e r s
PROMOTION
COTERIE SHOW NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 19-21 JAVITS CENTER, BOOTH #3020
runway
Spring 2016
tommy
Hilfiger That ’70s trend took an island turn chez Tommy, to delicious effect. Inspired by his beloved Caribbean (especially Mustique, whose storied bartender, Basil, set up shop in the middle of the runway), Hilfiger sent out a colorful mash-up of textures, colors, and concepts. With so many offerings on display, even the most crochetaverse fashionettes will find something.
milly A sporty new direction for Michelle Smith, and it’s one that’s sure to be a crowd-pleaser. Shoulder-baring shirts, modest skirts, and ribbed knits are the cornerstones of this stylish approach. And comfortable, to boot! Booth: 1607
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview
runway
Spring 2016
kate
Spade
How does your garden grow? Creative director Deborah Lloyd ordered 30,000 flowers to surround her clothing for her Spring 2016 presentation. Each flower matched its respective outfit. There was a daisy print jumpsuit, a gardenia-inspired dress coat, and a rose petal print tiered dress. Plus, a perfect black moto jacket was thrown in for good measure! Booth: 1820
elie
tahari
Sophisticated bohemia! Light and easy has been one theme all over the New York runways, and Elie Tahari’s version was a beautifully breezy collection for all ages. Case in point? Iconic ’70s mod Pat Cleveland looked just as divine in a white jacket with lace detail and matching pants as 19-year-old Ireland Baldwin did in a long blackand-white chiffon dress. Booth: 4220
sachin &
babi
Print will never go out of style, darlings…especially floral print, non? The stars of this collection were the three tiered strapless gowns in fuchsia and canary yellow patterns, plus the stunning lily prints on an ever so pale baby blue satin. If only Spring were in bloom now. Booth: 5810 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
s pa d e a n d ta h a r i : f i r s t v i e w ; sachin & babi: getty images
S p ri ng 2 016 COTERIE : BOOTH 1610
22 PRINCE STREET NEW YORK, NY
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RAMYBROOK.COM
Nicole’ s New York We all know NYC gal Nicole Miller for her fun and flattering downtown-uptown hybrid designs. A few things we didn’t know? She’s an expert water-skier, doesn’t like to cook French (though it’s in her blood), and hardly ever catches a cold. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO
How long have you been doing Coterie? A while—we used to do it out of the showroom, but for buyers Coterie is one-stop shopping. Tell us about your Spring 2016 collection. I started with this idea of street art and then I thought it was too simplistic and cliché. So I went back to the street and was looking at the juxtaposition of all the hard things in New York, but then you always see a lot of flowers and trees and a lot of greenery, so I was working with the contrast of all this beauty and then all the hardness and grit in the city. I always like to create contrast in whatever I do. My customer is the good girl–bad girl, the uptowndowntown girl. Tell us about the patterns! One was inspired by manhole covers. In Tribeca, there’s also a lot of those steps outside of loft buildings that have that kind of texture on it. There’s a cobblestone street pattern, and some dripped paint, and there’s one or two that address graffiti with a spray-painted pattern. And then there’s a lot of florals. Which NYC neighborhood do you identify with the most? I live in Tribeca, so I’m more of a downtown spirit. Anything else you’re looking forward to this fall? I always look forward to the show being over! How do you keep centered before a show? Well I don’t meditate or do yoga. [Laughs] It’s not my thing. I do go to the occasional spin class, but I guess water-skiing keeps me centered. How long have you been water-skiing? Years ago, I took lessons from Camille Duvall-Hero, who was a water-ski champion in Southampton. When we got a house on the water, we got instructors to come and pick us up and take us water-skiing. We hear you have a beach collection. We had one for a long time called Studio, where we did all these scarf dresses. We stopped doing it, I don’t know why, we got out of the habit of it. But we decided to bring it back! Already people have expressed a lot of interest. And you are quite the cook! What are some of the staple dishes that you make? My mother is French, so I grew up making bread and cooking, and we always had great food at home. It’s funny, I actually don’t cook French that much. I really like to cook ethnic food—Vietnamese, Italian, Spanish. In the summer I like to use whatever’s at the farmers’ market. What are you making right now? I go with the way the summer progresses. Now it’s corn and tomato season, so I love making this great dish with corn and clams. In the fall I’m usually traveling, so I make risottos and pastas and things like that. Any pre-show customs? We usually stock the office with potato chips and Mallo Cups, but nobody ate them this year. And Pret a Manger tangerine juice. I have a refrigerator full of them! That probably keeps you from getting sick during Fashion Week! I don’t get colds! What’s your secret? I don’t know! I haven’t had one of those nagging colds in 20 years. We recently saw Katherine Heigl’s TBT Instagram post! That [photo] was from the Spring ’96 show! That was really fun. We had quite a roster of girls walk in that show: Minnie Driver, Rebecca Gayheart, Jill Hennessy, Gretchen Mol, Katherine Heigl, and Gina Gershon. It was pretty early in their careers, and they all turned out to be stars. It ended up being memorable, and had such a long life. Those pictures keep turning up. How did you decide to put them in your show? It was this weird time when the models kind of boycotted New York because they wanted more money, so a lot of them weren’t around that season. So we just used actresses instead. Is that something you’ll do again? The following year we used these MTV VJs, like Jenny McCarthy and Daisy Fuentes, and they were fun too. After a while it seems like a gimmick. We used all the older models for our JCPenney show; it would be kind of interesting to use them for our regular show again, because they all still look so great!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FIRSTVIEW
showing
COTERIE NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 19 - 21 BOOTH # 3823
J AV I T S C E N T E R 655 WEST 34TH STREET NEW YORK, NY 10001
What Women Want Famous for creating handcrafted, high-glamour lingerie, Josie Natori has been designing for 38 years and shows no signs of slowing down. In fact, to keep up with the ever-changing needs of the Natori customer, she’s exploring a new category: eveningwear. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
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What inspired you to launch eveningwear? Natori is 38 years old. When we started, it was about clothing; it was by accident that it became about lingerie. So it really was a question of building eveningwear as a category, and being in a different department. I think Natori is really a concept of dressing, and a sensibility. Natori lingerie has always been about glamour. So eveningwear—I wouldn’t say it’s so easy— but it really is such an easy transition from what women, for the most part, wear at night. Tell us about the collection. It’s a very tight collection. There will be a bigger collection for spring with a lot more color. I did evening separates many years ago, in the ’90s, and I think women today prefer the trend of dresses. They’re not thinking, “What pants and top do I wear?” The dress category uses our signature shapes, which fit many kinds of women. How do you stay in touch with your customer? The customer has changed from the time we started. Women want things with more versatility. Some women buy our lingerie to wear in the evening, but some go straight to the eveningwear department. I think we’re trying to follow where the consumer is, and the Internet is a big deal. There are so many choices for customers—it’s confusing! How are you navigating the digital world? It’s much more work today to give the customer what she wants, when she wants it, and at the price she wants. I think the challenge today is more intense, but the opportunities are enormous. I was told that people buy five items of eveningwear at a time on the Internet—about $15,000, but there’s a 70 percent return, and apparel is about 40 percent. Isn’t that fascinating? And you’re still loving being on HSN? Totally! You can really talk to your philosophy, show the look, and address a wider audience. Is designing eveningwear different from designing lingerie? The approach is the same—it’s an artful way. I believe in being glamorous, whether you’re wearing it to bed or going out. But I’m still not sacrificing comfort. I don’t think you have to feel uncomfortable to look glamorous. To stay
I believe in being glamorous, whether you’re wearing it to bed or going out. But I’m still not sacrificing comfort.”
relevant as a brand, you need to keep evolving. This collection came out of a conversation with someone at Saks. I don’t think we would still be around today if I weren’t willing to listen! How involved is your family in the business? My son Kennedy...he’s my boss. [Laughs] He’s a different generation, and I think that’s part of how we keep up. What I did 38 years ago wouldn’t be proper for today. He fights me back, but it works. There’s wisdom I might bring to the table, but I like having another perspective. How do you divide your focus between the business and creative sides? It’s almost intertwined. I think like a businesswoman, but I have the creative side. I’m an artist—I’m a pianist—so that’s what I love about this business. I always have to keep creating. Otherwise I’ll get bored, in a heartbeat. And it’s one of the toughest businesses because you have no control over anything. What’s a day in your life like? I’m a workaholic. Normally I’m up at 7, and I have a trainer three times a week. Most of the time I’m exercising with my eyes closed! But to me it’s important to feel right about myself, because it all starts there. I have no routine—I hate routine. I don’t stay still. I’m on boards in terms of the arts. And I travel to Asia once a month to visit my mother—she’s almost 91—and the factory. Are you naturally energetic? Probably! I have a lot of adrenaline. My father was an obsessive entrepreneur, and my grandmother, too. So I was exposed to very driven people. It wasn’t even a question that I’d be doing the same thing. The word “retirement” is just unthinkable. What’s that expression? “I will die with my boots on...in my stilettos!”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M all photos courtesy
JAVITS CENTER
Level 3 Booth #2735
magaschoni.com Daily Front Row Ad.indd 2
8/27/15 9:52 PM
THE NEW NORMA
An iconic fashion designer for decades, Norma Kamali is taking her experiences, shedding her skin, and exploring new territories. We visited her New York showroom to discuss what’s next. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO What’s new with the label? The big picture is to expand the concept of fitness, health, beauty, and style, and less fashion. It’s a very disruptive time, so the word “fashion” almost seems oldfashioned to me. My goal is to make women feel good about themselves either through what they’re using for fitness and health or what they’re wearing. What’s your creative process like? When you’ve been doing this since 1967, there’s always an evolution and reinvention. I never consciously think strategically—it’s more emotionally and intuitively. I’m never planning to get a new kind of customer. I see people wearing my clothes that are representative of today but I don’t think, “Oh, I want Selena Gomez [wearing my clothes].” But it happens. In this business, it has to do with having a sense of what has been done already and what hasn’t been done. I have the good fortune of being around for as long as I have. I’m one of the best barometers around because I’ve lived through the ’60s to today. What’s coming this year? The most important thing is to look at clothes in a practical but fun way, not so much in a fashion-y way. In this disruptive time, it’s almost anti-fashion. For 2016 our message will be strong on fitness, health, and beauty. If you’re feeling good about yourself and you’re healthy, then even a T-shirt is going to look good on you. Not only will our website be putting forward a lot of great information and products that I’ve been putting together, but the way the clothes are presented will be efficient, smart, and imaginative. Tell us about your wellness center. Growing up, my mother was juicing, using olive oil for everything, and doing exercises to Jack LaLanne. He also juiced—and this is the ’60s and ’70s. My mother was a little eccentric. I would fight her, and then I realized, like we all do, everything we fight we become. With 9/11, the thought that something could happen any minute added to the stress that we all have. That breaks down your immune system, so I thought I would do a wellness café. That was the initial concept, but it was done from the point of view of vanity, because after all, I am a designer. I built the café with products we made or ones that I liked. Will we find olive oil in those? Yes, there are so many great uses for olive oil. We have everything from tooth soap to exfoliants. A couple of years ago I was at a Yankees game and I sat next to this guy from Barcelona, and he said that he was going to bring the best olive oils to the States. I told him I have so many ideas.
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He invited me to search for the best olive orchards in the world. We started with food shows, then regional shows, then specific orchards, to finally find some of the best orchards worldwide. They make special blends for our café and I package them as if it were a wine or a fragrance. In addition to wellness, you’re into working out. What do you do? I work out every day. I go to Physique 57. Nine years ago, on New Year’s, I decided I wanted to change my workout and I’d choose whatever’s closest to the store. Physique 57 is four doors away. I had no idea what it was but I signed up. I went to the class and I was like, “What is this?” It was so hard. But I signed up, so I was like, I’m coming back tomorrow! It’s the best workout I’ve ever done. Tell me about your active line. In the late ’70s I started to do sweats, which made me more popular than being a “cult designer.” There was no such thing as cotton Lycra when I started in this business. In the early ’90s there were a lot of technical discoveries in fabric. I learned a lot about compression and how to make fabric to help you perform better. I have compression in almost everything. I love active, and I think it’s the most modern category you can design for because it can change how you feel about your body. You’re at Coterie, which is great! Why did you choose not to show at Fashion Week this year? The idea of a fashion show got tired a long time ago. Fashion films have a more modern spirit and are more relevant than seeing clothing on the runway—not that I don’t think it’s beautiful—but I like seeing clothes in the context of a real situation. We have our photo shoot and do our film every season. The idea of doing film is very appealing to me, and I love the whole process. I feel like Woody Allen when I do them! Do you think that you will ever exit fashion to explore other categories? I think I’m morphing out of being a fashion designer and into being a designer. When I think of design I can’t imagine not designing active, or not doing swimwear, but I also have a lot of other projects that have to do with design, like fitness and health. All the things I’m doing right now are solutions for women in a global way—fitness, health, beauty, and style. I’m not necessarily stepping out of something…it’s like a snake shedding its skin and still being who it is but having this new gorgeous skin that’s no longer defined by the patterns it had before. It’s still what I do, but I just don’t want to be labeled “fashion.” We all have to go through that at different points in our lives, letting go of who you are. Clothing is just part of my DNA, so it will always be about clothing for me. I mean, can you imagine? I’ve been doing this since 1967. But think about all I can do at this point in my life. I have all of this knowledge and all of this ability to communicate now, and I can do it in a bigger way.
I think I’m morphing out of being a fashion designer and into being a designer...it’s like a snake shedding its skin.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M all photos courtesy
R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G . C O M @ R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G
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TAYLOR MADE
For the past two years, retail legend Stephanie Solomon has been infusing Lord & Taylor with her particular brand of chic. The store’s VP and fashion director explains what she’s working on. BY ASHLEY BAKER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
You’ve been at Lord & Taylor almost two years… after what must have been the shortest retirement in history! Yes, but it was enjoyable while I had it! I was really glad to get back in the swing of things, that’s for sure. What’s the scope of your responsibilities at Lord & Taylor? I’m the vice president and fashion director of all women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, and accessories. It’s the quintessential fashion director job—I work closely with the merchants to cover the markets and fashion shows. I’m continually tapping into street trends and pop culture to deliver what I believe are the most relevant fashion messages for Lord & Taylor. It’s a great job; Lord & Taylor is an incredible, iconic department store with, I must tell you, a world-class merchant team. These buyers have a passion for fashion like you’ve never seen. That’s one of the joys of my day-today job. What was your first interaction with Lord & Taylor? I was a sophomore in high school, and my mother took me to Lord & Taylor to buy my junior prom dress. I was in love with this guy—he was obviously a year older than me, because it was junior prom, and it was a big status thing to be invited. I went to Lord & Taylor, and I could describe the dress in detail. No doubt! From then on, every single social occasion dress I’ve ever bought for my entire life has been from Lord & Taylor, despite the fact that during some of that time, I worked for another department store! What’s your vision for the store’s buy? First of all, the landscape of retail has changed dramatically in the past 10 years, and differentiating yourself is key for being relevant in today’s retail environment. The first experience that we’ve executed was to develop Brand Assembly, a group of up-and-coming designers, and give them great real estate. That was our first segue into differentiation. We also branded our fast fashion area and named it Design Lab, which was always a very important retail destination at Lord & Taylor, but now it has a name, and it’s resonating with the customers very strongly. The third is to develop a concept called the Birdcage. The Birdcage was an iconic restaurant at Lord & Taylor—my grandmother used to know about it—and we brought it back as a gift destination on our second floor
on Fifth Avenue. It has a myriad of hard-to-find, unique items that are not mass-marketed. Scarves, jewelry, T-shirts…and the fourth part is our recent collaboration with Yigal Azrouël, our guest designer at Design Lab. Is he a designer that Lord & Taylor has had a long relationship with? He’s had a long relationship with me [laughs], and I don’t mean physically! He’s a designer that Lord & Taylor has been watching, and we loved his aesthetic. We knew he was the right partner to elevate the Design Lab point of view. I’m most passionate about that area, because part of my contribution to Lord & Taylor was to bring the trends to our customer as fast as possible. We spend a lot of time researching trends all over the world to find out about the next thing. That’s one of the joys of my job description. How does the Design Lab customer differ from the Lord & Taylor customer? Every day, we’re gaining new customers for Design Lab. We’re in the Garment District—this is a destination store for all of Seventh Avenue. During lunch hour, I run into half of my friends! Everybody is shopping. Which fall shapes and trends are you most excited about? It’s no secret by now that the ’70s have returned with a vengeance. Although we’ve been there before, this time around, it’s much more relevant, because there’s a whole generation of millennials who have never experienced bell-bottoms, flare pants, shaggy vests, peasant blouses, the saddlebags. They love it! Are you into this trend yourself? Yes! I’m wearing a floppy hat, a tiered floral dress, and a saddlebag, so of course I am! The ’70s were a revolution for fashion. It’s no wonder that fashion designers are tapping into an era that’s so exciting. Which designers are doing it best? Anna Sui. She’s a quintessential ’70s icon, and she always has been! I sat at her runway show and went, whoa! Brocade dresses, high shaft boots, fur vests…it was spot-on, and she’s always stood for it. Rebecca Taylor, too—she’s a ’70s girl, and she’s always had that essence in her Fall collection. If you could only buy one new thing for fall… A fur vest, and it doesn’t have to be real. We have a great teal blue one with dark tips at Lord & Taylor. Do you keep your clothes forever? Some of them, but I recycle. I gave about six bags of clothes to Libertine—you may see some on their runway! How will you push the envelope at Lord & Taylor in 2016? Lord & Taylor is a gem on Fifth Avenue. My way to push the envelope is to share that knowledge with the world. Through my expertise, I will push it forward through our catalog, through e-commerce, our merchandise assortment. People should know about us—everybody feels very passionate here, and that passion has been there, always. The store’s calming, it’s easy to shop, and it has a lot of history behind it, and all of that comes through as soon as you walk through the doors of any store. It’s the iconic American shopping experience. Is there anywhere to grab a bite for lunch? Of course! Sarabeth’s! It’s the best. The best tomato soup in the world. Everybody should come shopping at Lord & Taylor, and then meet me for lunch afterward. I’d be happy to entertain you.
B FA N yc . c o m ; a l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y
Real-world education means value-added employees. Berkeley College graduates enter the workforce with more than a typical classroom education. Programs developed with input from industry experts. Outstanding faculty. Access to top fashion industry resources. That’s what the Fashion Marketing and Management program at Berkeley College is all about. In fact, our time-tested approach to education is so effective that leading companies and organizations hire Berkeley grads year after year.
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“Through the Fashion Program at Berkeley College, I have met knowledgeable professors who emphasize the skills needed to succeed. I have also had opportunities to connect with industry professionals. Now, I am ready to chase my dreams.” Kaja Berg (left) Fashion Marketing and Management Student P4597-8.2014
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