Monday, February 11, 2013
collect
& discuss
steel this
look !
alex wang’s polished edge
plus:
carolina herrera
in her atelier
dennis basso
Turns 30
and...
daily doubles ! mountains of dish!
MEET DURO OLOWU
The Nigerian-born, London-based designer brings his masterful mixing, a riot of color, and some fashionable friends to jcp. This March, for a limited time.
$10 – $90
#DuroOlowuForJCP
for jcp
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LAUNCHING OUR EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATION wITH KIRNA ZABêTE!
2/7/13 7:24 PM
INGS: ADY S UBBED FAT L S RS
Julianne Moore and Uma Thurman at Bulgari’s Year of the Snake party.
OPERA STA DELS AT FOR MO OF CHRIST IMITATION SHOW!
A Moment with… Lindsey Wixson, Daily cover
Have you graduated from high school yet? No. I dropped out at the beginning of my junior year and got my GED. You have a dream home in the works! I’m trying to find an architect to work with. I have a lot of ideas about the house I want to build. It will be Japanese, modern with high ceilings. It will take about five years to build. Where will it be? It’s a secret. I don’t want anybody to know where I live.
Bulgari Party
your daily dose
The beat goes on!
Designer-ese
(with Tara Subkoff) “It’s important to do things that are unusual, that celebrate creativity, that celebrate artistry, that celebrate out-of-the-box thinking, which is not the way the industry is right now. And rather than kill myself like Alexander McQueen, I [want to] do things really differently and take the risk and not conform.”
SCENE Feel
like you’re flagging? Channel your inner Karl with visions of endless energy. So, where does Le Lagerfeld get his vim and vigor? “He doesn’t take vacations. He thinks they’re middle-class.” —Brian Wolk “I hate to say it, but I think he’s a vampire. That’s sexy! He still looks incredible. He could also be an alien.” —Eve “He’s connected to the core of the earth. Maybe there’s an invisible golden thread of lava that connects him to the sun or the earth.” —actress Nicole LaLiberte “He’s a brilliant man. There’s always something going on in that head of his. He’s light years ahead of everyone else.” —Ken Downing “The metals in the rings he wears [give him power].” —Brad Goreski Spotted: Eve performing “Let Me Blow Ya Mind” to close the Prabal Gurung post-show bash. Who said designers-ofthe-moment had to be humble all the time?
A FANTASY Moment with…
A Moment with… Emmanuelle Alt Welcome to New York! Any problems with the snow? No snow drama! I’ve been here since Tuesday. I was shooting couture here. What are you looking forward to in New York? Last season I was only here for a few days, so I’m happy to be here longer. I like show season! We always see you in jeans. How many pairs do you think you own? An indecent number... Thoughts on John Galliano working with Oscar? It’s fantastic! It’s good news. I’m happy to hear his name back in the industry. I hope I’m going to see him at Oscar’s show.
Michael Carl We read on Twitter that Michael Bloomberg called to check in on you after the storm. He did indeed call me. He had heard that Chelsea had been hit hard, and then he just wanted to know what my look was going to be today. What did you tell him? Gray snow bunny. Do you guys text? He’s still trying to BBM me. He hasn’t figured out technology. He’s smart on a lot of things, but not texting. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Prabal Gurung
“Jill Stuart is my first show ever. It’s a very big deal. If anybody knows me at all, they know that this is probably more important than my virginity. I was raised on fashion.” —Carrie Diaries star Chloe Bridges
Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Liberty Ross, and Liya Kebede at Alexander Wang b f a n y c . c o m ( 1 0 ) ; GETTY IMAGES ( 7 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m ull a n . c o m ; s hu t t e r s t o c k
g e t t y i m ag e s ( 7 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 2)
Rihanna
S:10.25”
S:13”
Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. © 2013 Maybelline LLC.
Giovanna Battaglia
Today’s Pick The always-on-point Giovanna Battaglia at Bulgari. Cast your vote at VanityFair.com and remember, we’ll be watching!
A Moment with…
Amy Fine Collins, Contributing Editor, Vanity Fair
How does one get on the bestdressed list? You have to prove yourself as a consistently original and appropriate dresser. Are you a judge? I’m keeping an eye on the submissions! How have they been? One thing we all noted is that men are as obsessed with their handbags as women are. I’m not sure if that’s a good direction or not. What about the women? I like to see hair that’s a little groomed and styled. We’ve had too much of long, straight hair. Pull it back, cut it, don’t let it hang like you’re Eve in the Garden of Eden!
your daily dose Romance! Ambition! Exhaustion! It’s all in a day’s work, chicettes... heard:
What perk from 2003 do you miss? “I was a fashion director at W at the time. I miss my supermodels. They were such a big thing back then. I can’t expense a supermodel today.” —Joe Zee “Gift bags! I love free sh*t. I don’t care if it’s a bag of almonds.” —Robert Verdi “I was still in college. I miss a lot of those perks like being on a meal plan. I also miss being 10 years younger.” —Derek Blasberg “Sleeping in, because that’s before I had children.” —Rebecca Taylor
V-Day Dish with
Front-Row Beauty: The Killer Combo
unkers Joe Zee and Rob Yo
What are you doing for Valentine’s Day? Joe: We’re going on a romantic dinner. I don’t want to say where, because Rob doesn’t know yet. Does Rob school you on fashion, given his gig as a Parsons prof? Joe: All the time. He’ll be like, “Oh, no, babe— that’s the wrong fabric.” Or, “That’s not the type of seaming you’re talking about.” But I learn so much. Is that true? Rob: So many people will not correct him, but I’m his boyfriend!
Your Inspiration: Brigitte Bardot You Saw It At… Monique Lhuillier Mara Hoffman Cat eyes abound on the runways for Fall, paired with barelythere lips—just like Brigitte’s! But the only way for you to truly pull it off in the front row is with a sublimely moisturized bouche. Enter Maybelline New York’s Baby Lips Repairing Lip Balm with SPF 20, with its mixture of natural botanicals covering lips with eight hours of hydration (not to mention UV protection)—exactly what you need during this week of chic! We recommend opting for just a slight touch of tint in either the Peach Kiss or the Pink Punch shade. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ON ENNUI: “Oh, my God! 17 times at least, and I’ve said to people twice already, ‘It’s in the program!’” — Monique LHuillier on how many reporters had asked for her collection ‘inspiration’ on Saturday
A Moment with…
Daria Werbowy
Congrats on closing Prabal! I like closing better than opening, actually. Somehow it makes me feel like the leader. The closing outfit is the dot! How are you dealing with our slushy streets? I like snow. It’s just water. I’m from Russia and I’ve been to Siberia. Will you go back to college? I did two years in Moscow and then transferred to the New School, but took the year off because I got so busy. English is not my first language, so writing takes me twice as long. Hopefully next year I’ll come back to it. You studied screenwriting? I daydream in movies. I might do a screenplay about this crazy fashion world. It’s always so fake in the movies. You’re always hoping it’s going to be good, but it all comes off as too glamorous.
“I’m not quite sure why people have after-parties, because every show is such a social Mardi Gras. By the time the shows are over, I need to go in a dark room and compose myself.” —Simon Doonan
Monique Lhuillier
g e t t y i ma g e s ( 1 1 ) ; f i r s t v i e w . c o m ( 2 ) ; b f a n y c . c o m ; s h u t t e r s t o c k
1070 MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK, NY
9 PRINCE STREET, NEW YORK, NY HAUTEHIPPIE.COM
20 NEWTON LANE, EAST HAMPTON, NY
t r Pa y
Robert Verdi, Kenhinde Wiley, and Mckenzie Liautaud
Duro Olowu, Bethann Hardison, and Thelma Golden
“This is a beautiful representation of Duro’s project and his vision. I’m so excited by this.” —Thelma Golden on The Daily’s Duro cover
Fix
DURO’s moment
front row Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Caroline Issa
Nicole Vassall and Lola Ogunnaike
Scene:
A Moment with… Nina Garcia
What was your first thought when you saw our Duro cover? It made my day! What do you think of JCP’s new direction? It’s phenomenal. Wait and see what they have in store. It’s very special. Which designer should they collaborate with next? It’s going to be hard to beat Duro. It would have to be someone completely different, like Altuzarra or Phillip Lim, or Preen.
On Saturday night, wild prints Judy Bird, Marva ruled at the party to fete Duro Olowu and JCP’s Smalls, and Tracey Kemble collaboration at the swank Stone Rose Lounge. Olowu was humbled by all the adoration: “I just want people to come and see what one can do when one thinks about the most basic product in the most visionary way,” he told The Daily. And what did he make of his turn Carlos Mota on our cover? “It surprised me. The Daily is about pop, and it really popped. It’s beautiful, and it’s what fashion should be: fun and stylish.” Darling, we think you pop, too!
Maya Halie and Marcus Samuelsson
olowu Love gs “He’s an amazing collaborator. He brin just we a vitality with print and color that don’t have in our DNA. It’s an amazing marriage.” —Nick Wooster, JCP Creative Director so “I’ve always been a fan because he’s s arcu forward, so grand.” —M Samuelsson “I’m speechless. I love Duro! The girls in my office are crazed for this collaboration. It really says Duro.” —Mickey Boardman “I’ve been a fan of his since I saw , Michelle Obama wearing his designs the er dinn had lly and we fina other night. He’s adorable and genuine. I think we’re going to be friends. We’ve already emailed!” —Phillip Bloch “When my mom and I would visit our mall in New Jersey, she’d always park at JCPenney so we’d get to see everything twice, when we came in and left. That’s where we bought all our clothes!” —Miss USA Alyssa Campanella
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m
The
A Moment with… Ikram Goldman Enjoying the party? JCP homed in on an amazing artist. You can tell Duro loved this project. When did you first meet Duro? He came to my hotel room. He had a duffel bag and pulled out two dresses. I said, “Those are great dresses, but what’s inside the bag?” Out came these incredible, one-of-a-kind beaded, embroidered jackets. I did end up getting some of the jackets for Ikram, and it’s been a love affair ever since. He’s an orgasm for the heart, the eyes, and the mind. I heard you got his autograph. Are you kidding? What fool isn’t going to get his autograph? I’m so proud of him!
A Moment with… Iris Apfel You’re out late tonight. That’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard! I’m out late all the time. What’s your bedtime? Between 12 and 2 a.m. What’s been your favorite Fashion Week moment? Apfel’s This moment right now. collab accessories Didn’t you and Duro meet in a hotel? Sounds very sexy…don’t tell Thelma! s t e fa n ia cur t o ( 5 ) ; all o t h e r imag e s pa t rickmcmulla n . c o m
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche
Executive Editor Christopher Tennant
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Senior Editors Maria Denardo, Sarah Horne Grose Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Writer Jenna Sauers Art Director Teresa Platt Photographer Giorgio Niro Senior Designer Dawn Sebti Photo Editors Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros Production & Distribution Director Allison Coles Imaging Specialist George Maier Copy and Research Editors Joey Meyer, Stefanie Schwalb, Christy Walker, Matt Weingarden Production Manager Timothy McVicker Imaging Assistants Megan Herlihy, Mihai Calin Simion
Vice President, Publisher Louis A. Sarmiento Advertising Director Hannah Sinclair Marketing Director Fred Miketa Social Media Director Ashley Tschudin Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Assistant Anjali Raja Distribution Manager Shawn Brennan Distribution Supervisor Benjamin Woldoff To advertise in The Daily, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: sarmiento@dailyfrontrow.com
DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
On the cover: Alexander Wang Fall 2013, shot by FirstView.
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runway
Fall 2013
alexander
wang
Rebel with a cause. If anyone’s still wondering whether Wang has what it takes to work his wonders at Balenciaga, this collection shows he’s in it to win it. Bulky shapes and fuzzy textures revolted against the Neoprene futuristic fabrics blanketing the runways. Here it was all about soft shoulders, luxurious fur coats and wraps, oversize mittens, and mohair knits that were simply, magnifique!
GETTY IMAGES (5) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Get your online fashion ďŹ x on issuu.com issuu.com/dailyfrontrow
runway
Fall 2013
Altuzarra I am woman hear me roar! Power dressing was at its sexiest best on Joseph Altuzarra’s runway, with severe, skinny skirt suits and leather trenches and dresses nipped at the waist, for the working girl who isn’t afraid to show a penchant for high fashion.
ruffian Bohemian Rhapsody. A bodiced Chinois shirt dress, pantsuits with peeping peplum, plus voluminous necktie blouses, are all part of Ruffian’s 19th-century, Boweryinspired collection that transitions a long day’s journey seamlessly into night.
GETTY IMAGES (11) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
runway
Fall 2013
prabal Gurung
Marching orders. Prabal’s warrior women were like a ferociously chic fashion tribe taking down the runway in military green garments slashed across the body or buttoned up and harnessed, uniform style.
Mara
Monique
Lhuillier
hoffman Fit for a prints-cess. Lightening up what’s been a dark and bulky season, Hoffman’s collection was full of tribal patterns and a 70’s vibe.
Gorgeous glamazons. Lhuillier’s sirens sashayed down the catwalk in stunning eveningwear, like a tea-length gold lace dress and an emerald gown paired with her new buzzed about heels. We look forward to seeing them on the Oscars’ tapis rouge.
beauty
trend
{Cat Eyes} Charlotte Willer for Maybelline New York GETTY IMAGES (17)
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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classic dish
H
The Divine Mrs.
A few days before her show, Carolina Herrera gave The Daily a peek at her new collection and a tour of her remodeled atelier. We talked legends, dancing, and Jackie O. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
We did a feature on you and your longtime driver a few years ago. How’s he doing? Very well! He loved your feature. I gave him a lot of copies of The Daily for his family and friends. You’ve been showing at Fashion Week since 1981! Have you ever skipped a season? One year! In 1992, we couldn’t show because I was moving offices. So I had a tiny show in my office, which was on 57th Street. It was the office we started in: small, but very pretty. Do you know who came? Jackie Onassis. The space was so tiny, but I made sure to seat her in a place where nobody would bother her. Did the front-row photogs go crazy for her? [Laughs] Are you kidding me? Of course! If Jackie were alive today, could she even attend a show without getting paparazzi-mauled? I don’t think so. Every time she went out, people just jumped on her. Now there are more photographers, more media, and more everything! Thoughts on that aspect of fashion? It’s part of the business. Even if you don’t like it, you have to accept it, because that’s how you make your name. That’s how people know who you are. If you do [a show] in a very small space with no one there, what’s the point? Fashion is a very public thing; now it’s more public than ever. A show happens, and you can watch it on the Internet. New technology! Back to your collections: Did any of them almost not make it to the runway? When I showed a collection at the Library at the Public, on Astor Place, we almost didn’t make it. The clothes coming in the van got lost. They had to bring the collection in through the audience, in front of everybody! Things like that don’t happen anymore. Everything is much more calm. I don’t want people working until the morning of the show and showing up exhausted. Fashion involves deadlines like everything else; that’s part of the business. The more challenges you get, the better you are. If you think everything you do is perfect, that’s just not true! You better retire and not do it anymore. Do you get anxious pre-show? Any jitters now? I’m feeling very well! I’m always nervous, because I want everything to come out the way I have it in my mind, even though things change here and there. I have a very good team! It’s not only me. Who is your right-hand person? Hervé Pierre. My whole design team is great: I have all the people in my atelier like Miro, François, Celine, and Rita. They’re the ones making the clothes. Your show is always a favorite on the calendar. It’s that Monday-morning recharge. You like? It’s not so chaotic. We’re organized. Having my atelier in the building makes things easy to control, because I know exactly how everything is being made. We can change or make the collection right there: I don’t send clothes to be made in Italy and then wait for them. Your front-row regulars are loyal. Graydon Carter, Fran Lebowitz, Renée Zellweger… I love it! I have friendships with them, but they are also all important people in fashion. Graydon is the editor of one of the best magazines there is. They’re all friends and I love that they come out to support me. But I never see them until after the show, because I’m always in the back! I watch the show on the monitor to see who’s making mistakes! You’re always sending the girls out with your casting director, James Scully, by your side. James is a very important part. He’s been working for me for a long time. He’s the one who brings all the girls. He has a thermometer. He knows exactly who should be there. I usually use 42 or 43 girls. It’s fantastic to have each girl in just one look, so the
show comes out perfect. You don’t have to be running to change them backstage in a panic. Are you nervous backstage? Of course I am, but I don’t show it. If you start being nervous and you have a group of people working with you, they get nervous, too! I always say to my team: “Why are you so nervous? We’re only making dresses. We’re not inventing anything new. If one doesn’t work, we make another one!” Are you still having a blast?
“I don’t want to be called a legend. To me, legends are 102 years old. I don’t want to be called an icon, either. Icons have become like Coca-Cola.” Yes! I am, but it’s a great blast to me when [the show] is over. I like the creative side the most. I don’t like the publicity and talking about myself. The interviews backstage make me so nervous. It’s another animal. You always have Marie Griffin by your side backstage to guide you through the press circus... I adore Marie! I can’t do any television interviews without her. She has to be there. When I see her face, I smile. She’s in control! If a journalist asks to interview me, I say, “Of course! Come here!” but she’ll say, “No! He has to wait! Look at the line!” She’s my bad cop, but she’s perfect for me. She knows what she’s doing. Which interview questions do you always get? They all ask me “What is your inspiration?” [Joyful laughter] It’s always the same, but I suppose it’s the same with everyone. If you’re in the music business, they ask the same questions. What else can they ask? Sometimes I have fun with it.
Graydon Carter
Do you ever just make stuff up? All the time! Oh, yes! Fashion has to be fun, right? You have to be fun. My everyday life is about making women more beautiful. Why do you have to be serious to do that? Make it fun. What’s your standard pre-show meal? I don’t eat. I normally eat breakfast every day, but not on show day. I wake up very early, get ready, and go to the Tents at 8 a.m. to check on everything. There are so many things to do on that day. You love music, right? When’s the last time you went out dancing? I haven’t been dancing in a long time. I do love to dance, though! What kind of dancing? Any kind! I love salsa! I’m Latin; we’re very good dancers. Do you like pop music? Yes, I do! I love Beyoncé! She’s fabulous! Don’t you think so? Did you see her Super Bowl performance? I didn’t. I wish I had, because everyone has been saying it was fabulous. You have lots of books in your office… Books have been a constant companion in my life since I was a child. My mother and father used to always tell us that we had to read. At this moment I’m reading all of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s short stories. Do you have any time to read before your show? Yes, I do: I read every day, in the night or morning. It calms me. I read when I’m sad, I read when I’m happy, I read when I’m nervous. I read all the time. What’s your current state of mind? It’s wonderful, with a little cloud here and there. It’s like the weather! Who’s your best friend in fashion? One of my best friends was Bill Blass. I loved him. Oscar is a great friend, too. I have many [friends]! Everybody calls you Mrs. Herrera… I don’t know why. I’ve always been called that, since the beginning. I don’t understand why, but I like it! They call me Mrs. H at my atelier. Does anybody call you Carolina? Yes! Masses of people. Of course. Do you feel like a legend? I don’t want to be called a legend. To me, legends are 102 years old. I don’t want to be called an icon, either. Icons have become like Coca-Cola: Everybody is one, everybody drinks that! What would you like to be called? Carolina Herrera!
beyoncé Fran Lebowitz
Renée Zellweger Jackie Onassis
getty images
Dennis lessons
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Waiter: Can I get you a drink? I’ll have a Grey Goose martini, no olives, clean, shaken. Is that your signature? Yes, always. Congratulations on 30 years. How old do you feel? I feel 30. The brand feels young, too. We’ve had a long and fun journey. I feel like I’m in the middle! Some friends who have been in the business as long as me feel ready to wind down. I feel like I’m just winding up! Many people don’t get to do what they want to do. I’m living my dream. How did you get your start back in 1983? Before I even launched, we were doing at-home “fur parties” and I would take various collections and rent a big car and fill it up with different furs. It was like a Tupperware party, but with fur. It was quite successful. We created a clientele and then, when I went off on my own, they came with me. Ivana Trump was at your first show… Yes, she was! At the Regency Hotel. It was very exciting. Angela Taylor, who is no longer with us, was a fashion writer at The New York Times and gave us a half-page with three photographs. What’s exciting about doing this shoot today at the Pierre hotel is that I did a multitude of shows here. I feel very at home at the Pierre. I also got married here! Where’d you get the dough to go it alone? I’m an only child, and when I went into business, my parents were very generous. They supported the whole situation. My father probably thought all those tens of thousands of dollars were to buy skins, but he didn’t know I was using it for PR and fashion shows. Without them, it wouldn’t have been possible. Shows and PR have changed quite a bit in 30 years. For the better? It’s totally changed! Today fashion is viewed differently. Fashion shows are live-streamed! You show your collection and 15 minutes later you read a review. It’s instant everything. I don’t know how good it is. I’m not sure. There was something about the allure of not having everything being so instantaneous. That’s the way of the world, but I like to think of myself as somebody completely contemporary who has moved with the times. Many of the daughters of my original clients are now my clients. Ivanka Trump was four when I met her and now she’s a client. To transcend
BASSO PROFUNDO Can you believe it’s been 30 years since baby-faced fashion furrier Dennis Basso started swaddling the chic set? In the face of such a momentous milestone, there was only one thing to do: hail a Town Car up to Sirio at the Pierre hotel for some serious old-school dish. Happy birthday, Basso! Make a wish... BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
that client, you better be busy with that Instagram! Do you Instagram? No, but I’m doing all the rest. I haven’t switched over to the iPhone yet. Come on, Dennis! I can’t type on it! It takes too long. I’m still an AOL guy! Every person at my company has an address with their name at DennisBasso.com, except me. When did you know you’d made it? The celebrities! I’m talking 20-something years ago. I did something for Barbara Walters, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Jaclyn Smith, Elizabeth Taylor—all of ’em. I’m designing for the most glamorous women in the world. This is something quite amazing! Being approved in the CFDA was a wonderful thing for me, and when I first showed at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and opened my first Madison Avenue store. I also remember my first Daily cover, but that was years later! When Meryl Streep wore my coat in The Devil Wears
Prada and to sit there in the movie theater and see her opening a movie wearing something I made? It was a wonderful sense of accomplishment. I’m never jaded. Things excite me daily. I’m excited to be here talking to The Daily. I even wore a new tie! Your show always feels like a real fashion show… Women come to my show dressed! It’s a high compliment. What’s most unique about my show is that the clients who are there are really friends. There’s that same feeling at Mrs. Herrera’s show, Mr. De la Renta’s show. There’s a warmth in the audience. They aren’t looking at it with a critical eye; they are looking at it through a friend’s eye. That’s always a nice thing. Were you a party boy in your youth? I had my fair share of nights out. I still like to go out! What’s the latest you’ve been out recently? We were out in Beirut a few months ago until 4 a.m. To them that’s like 11 at night. I was in London a few weeks ago and got back to Claridge’s at 2 a.m. But in New York, it’s dinner and home. No pit stops at Barracuda? I don’t want to be all “been there, done that,” but I’m more interested in going to places like the Top of the Standard. That’s a little more appealing. I like a good house party. Getting back to your career: You’ve made some bank at QVC! I went there in 1993, and at that time most designers were not doing secondary lines. Today it’s very popular for designers to do a line with H&M or Kohl’s, but it wasn’t back then. I love show business, and this was a wonderful combination. The customer understood me and I understood the customer. Twenty years later, we’ve had an unbelievable journey. On television, it’s possible to sell four or five thousand pieces of one style. QVC is on par with the major department stores. Do you get a rush being on live TV? It’s the most exciting thing you could possibly do! How has your husband, Michael, contributed to your success? He’s part of the Dennis Basso world, and he’s extremely grounded. He’s kept our home life as private as possible. We’ve had a great journey together. It really has been so incredibly fun.
Nobody humors The Daily like Dennis! How do you like your pizza? Crispy. I sometimes like sausage. I love the smoked-salmon pizza on the everything dough at the Mark. Should we go there now? When’s the last time you went fishing? With my father and my uncles. This was 1966. It was fishing and clamming, actually. My father got annoyed with me because
each clam that came into the boat, I shucked to see if there was a pearl in it. I thought they were like oysters! How good a driver are you? I’d say I’m medium to not-so-great. Favorite musical of all time? Come on! That’s impossible. OK, it’s a tie. Mame and Hello, Dolly! I made a coat for Carol Channing once. Love her.
Favorite Broadway diva of all time? Patti LuPone. Easy. When was your last cleanse? Never! But it’s something I’ve thought about. It’s probably a good idea. And your favorite toast spread? I’m a butter guy. Do you wear your own fragrance, Dennis Basso by Dennis Basso?
I’m wearing it right now. In fact, I’m addicted to my own fragrance. It smells gorgeous! Who is the hunkiest actor working today? I’m old-school and he’s not so young, but I like George Clooney. Bradley Cooper? Nah. I like somebody with some experience. i n s e t s : pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m
Nailed it
Essie nails on the runway at Carlos Miele Spring 2013
in living
color
Ever since Essie Weingarten’s popular nail polish brand, Essie, was bought by L’Oréal USA in 2010, its haute hues have been popping up all over Fash Week both on the runway and in the front row. So we asked the editors, “Which Essie are you?” BY PAIGE REDDINGER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Linda Wells, editor in chief, Allure “My color is Allure— Essie named it after us.” Patricia Tortolani, beauty director, Allure “That’s a trick question, right? I’m going to go with Allure. On the weekends, I break out a bright, sexy bottle of Miami Nice.” Anne-Marie Guarnieri, senior beauty editor, Allure “Allure! Though I know it sounds totally biased, it really is the perfect neutral. But Mesmerized, a bright blue, describes my state of mind during Fashion Week.” Jamie Rosen, beauty director, Town & Country “Jazz is the perfect taupe-y nude for hands, and I love Geranium for poppy orange pedicures.” Mary-Kate Steinmiller, senior fashion market editor, Teen Vogue “I only use All In One Base, but inside I’m Carnival.” Sheena Smith, accessories director, Teen Vogue “Put me down for Essie’s Clambake color—I’m obsessed.”
Leah Wyar, beauty director, Cosmopolitan “Lapiz of Luxury. Beyond the current blue manicure craze (which I’m loving!), this was my wedding pedi color, so it always feels special.” Michelle McCool, fashion director, Cosmopolitan “Spaghetti Strap is my go-to for a week at the office. Guchi Muchi Puchi is my toe color for a Hamptons weekend. I dream of donning that one soon!” Jean Godfrey-June, executive beauty and fashion news director, Lucky “Russian Roulette— gorgeous, sexy, and I love the Deer Hunter aspect.” Alexis Bryan Morgan, executive fashion director, Lucky “Sandy Beach for my fingers—I like a sheer neutral—and Red Nouveau for sexy toes!” Anne Keane, fashion director, Lucky “I love A-List, but somehow I always end up calling it Grade A at the salon. True story.” Elle Strauss, senior fashion editor, Lucky “Of all the red nail polishes that I’ve tried, Fifth Avenue is the perfect shade of red. Flirty Fuchsia for beach toes!”
Joyann King, site director, Harper’s Bazaar “Essie Au Natural. It’s the perfect non-color to fool everyone into thinking I don’t need manicures.” Gretchen Gunlocke Fenton, accessories director, Glamour “Fed Up—just one coat. I’m not much of a beauty risk taker. Fed Up is for wimps like me who just want the slightest hint of color.” Maria Dueñas Jacobs, senior accessories editor, Glamour “Pepperoni—for a bit of spice, minus the calories.” Rina Stone, creative director, InStyle “I love Aperitif. It’s a really saturated garnet, great for a chic short mani.” Lisa Arbetter, deputy managing editor, InStyle “Topless & Barefoot is my go-to. It’s an opaque beige, which I find cooler than sheer pink.” April Long, executive beauty director, Elle “While I love flashes of gray, green, lilac, and blue on other people’s fingers, those shades react with my skin tone to give me crypt hands. I stick to Essie Lollipop—a classicbut-playful, seasonless, Old Hollywood red that never fails to make me feel glamorous.”
r u n way: f i r s t v i e w ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 1 2 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 6 ) ; a l l b ot t l e s c o u r t e s y
Location, location...
Who’s
? t Ou How does a bloke go from reporting on the Bosnian War to EIC of Out magazine? It’s the unusual story of Aaron Hicklin, who runs America’s largest gay monthly glossy from Out’s HQ, perched above a pet store in Brooklyn. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO How have you changed Out since arriving in 2006? I wanted Out to be Bowie gay, not Cher gay. I have nothing against Cher, but Bowie to me was a real artist: eternally cool, super-creative, his sexuality is fluid. Did that piss off a lot of people? Some people thought there was a certain presumption and arrogance. I have plenty of critics! I’ve grown a thick skin, but you can’t worry too much about pleasing your critics. Plenty of people probably think the magazine now is slight, superficial, and not rigorous or thoughtful enough. That’s true, occasionally. How’d you enter the biz? Back in university, I wanted to be a hardcore news reporter. In 1993, the Bosnia War was going on. I was doing entertainment listings at The Scotsman; I told my editors I wanted to go to Bosnia. I went for three weeks. I saw crazy things. It was thrilling and terrifying. You write really well in those situations: stories write themselves. It’s much harder to write a FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
profile of a fashion designer than to write about five hours in a refugee camp or a hospital in Sarajevo. How did you get from Bosnia to Out? I was invited to a dinner with Bob Guccione Jr. in Scotland; he’d also covered Bosnia for Spin, and we bonded over that. The next day, we had a long breakfast and discussed me coming to New York to be a senior editor at Gear. I didn’t even know what a senior editor did! I arrived in 1998, was at Gear for a few years, it folded, then I went to Blackbook. Gotcha! What’s Out up to lately? We took a hard and thoughtful look at what was happening with print. We weren’t utilizing our staff in the most efficient way. Out is operated by Here Media, a TV company; we work with them as a content provider. Now I’m responsible for the editorial costs of what we do run through my brand-new company, Grand Editorial. It was a chance to be more creative. How many straight guys are reading Out? Not too many! I look forward to the day when straight men won’t feel awkward picking up a copy. How about lesbian readers? No, most of our readers are gay men. I’m well aware that it upsets people, but it’s not always possible to do a magazine that’s completely 50/50.
What’s your fave cover? The best cover we’ve ever done was Neil Patrick Harris. Adam Lambert also sells really well, with gay men and straight women. How fashion-y is Out? Our March issue has around 50 pages of fashion. We profile a lot of gay designers. We’ve even profiled Miuccia Prada—and she rarely gives interviews! Hermes, Vuitton, and Calvin advertise in Out. How do you snag such chic ads? We have to work for every dollar. People who look after ad budgets are rarely gay. If you’re a Condé title, it’s probably easier to make your case. Why’d you move the mag to Carroll Gardens? New York is moving eastwards! A small magazine is a natural fit for Brooklyn; there’s lots more creative energy than there is in Manhattan. Do you ever hit up the pet store downstairs? My cat loves it. I bring treats home every night! ALL INSET PHOTOS COURTESY
Chic tenth
A Decade of Design Romanian designer Yoana Baraschi, donned by the likes of Heidi Klum and Stacy Keibler and filling racks from Anthropologie to Neiman Marcus, is ringing in 10 years in the biz. That calls for a walk down memory lane, of course, plus projects like a top secret bauble collection. Intrigued? Gather round! BY MARIA DENARDO Photography by vital aGibalow FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Happy tenth anniversary! It doesn’t feel like 10 years. It just whizzed by! Walk us through your first year. I saw minor miracles happen. I landed at the Intermezzo tradeshow before I had a business! I couldn’t have done it without the contractors, shops, or patternmakers who were willing to do less than the minimum quantity. Who are you modeling your business on? Emilio Pucci spent every afternoon at his stores talking to customers. That turned off the in-crowd and his friends in the nobility. But those relationships nourished him, just like they nourish me. Is the industry nicer or nastier since you started? In the eighties, screaming was the modus operandi. Now it’s about positive reinforcement. What’s been your greatest milestone? My first Anthropologie order in 2004. They spotted me at a trade show and picked the most difficult-tomake dress. It became their catalog cover, and suddenly an order for 800 became 3,400. Who wears Yoana, besides Anthro adorers? A lot of lawyers wear it. That was the intention. This isn’t a line for mistresses! How important are department stores? We’re like the slow-food movement: Our product is homegrown, detail-oriented, and unique. I don’t want to be sold in every store or expand too quickly. It’s important for me to build strong relationships with stores—specialty or department—that appreciate this model. Neiman Marcus does, and I’ve worked with them for eight years. Most memorable moment on the job, please! Nine years ago, we had our first photo in the September issue of Marie Claire: Jessica Simpson wore a brown gingham suit with a fishtail skirt. Iman saw the picture and wanted to wear the suit to an event where she received an award from Mayor Bloomberg. But the temperature rose into the 90s and Iman never wore the suit! Is that celeb factor still important for business? Right now, there’s too much of a chase for it. We continue to do that, but it’s spun out of control! Are you planning on showing at MBFW again? This season, we’ll do a two-minute video on Style.com about Fall 2013. It’s half the price of a presentation, but has a longer shelf life. We’re not the ultimate newsmaking item right now, and editors are oversolicited. You also hold appointments in Paris. Yes, we book a glamorous hotel suite in Place Vendôme so our Middle Eastern clients can view the collection. A lot of those clients don’t come to New York anymore; they expect the courtesy of a Paris presentation. Any projects in the pipeline? Our jewelry collaboration comes out in May. But this year, I’m focused on a stronger online presence and international expansion; we just opened a couple of large accounts in Australia, for example. Who are your biggest cheerleaders? Brandusa [Niro], Dana Avidan-Cohn from InStyle, Dita Von Teese, Alexis Bryan Morgan and Anne Keane from Lucky, Mitch Johnson and Julie Sumner from Neiman Marcus, and my husband!
T:10.25”
A supermodel in every sense.
T:13”
Introducing the all-new, groundbreaking CLA. Style, beauty and glamour brought to you by the leader in style, beauty and glamour. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. MBUSA.com/lifestyle
Pre-production model shown with optional equipment. Available in dealerships September 2013. ©2013 Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC
For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.
Shop talk
Best foot
FORWARD
Disenchanted by “doctor’s office”-quality shoe brands charging top dollar, PLV Studio mastermind David Giordano whipped up an edgy-yet-attainable footwear line called Pour la Victoire that exploded onto the scene with red-carpet credits, editrix endorsements (Carine’s a fan!), and distribution in 30 countries. Thanks to newly installed CEO Chris Nakatani, PLV is about to kick things up another notch. BY MARIA DENARDO PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
checking in with Chris nakatani... How’s the new gig treating you? Our Spring/Summer 2013 campaign shoot with Terry Richardson was my first day! We staged it in an old, French-inspired chateau in Long Island. It was a crisp day, the sun was out, and Jessica Hart was modeling. Are you a big Terry fan? Who isn’t? I definitely gave him a thumbs-up on set. Working with Terry gives us credibility. It tells the consumer that we’re here to stay, and we’re investing in our brand. Where were you pre-PLV? I worked at Ralph Lauren men’s for 10 years as an account exec, then VP of sales for the home collection. Then I went into licensing at Tommy Hilfiger for nine years, Perry Ellis for three, and Kenneth Cole for five. What excited you about working with PLV? The focus on accessories, for one. A customer’s experimentation with accessories is far greater than in the ready-to-wear market, so it’s easier for us to engage them. Why did the company decide to rebrand? When businesses become challenged, there’s a tendency to become opportunistic as opposed to strategic. You need to understand your target customer. If you’re focused on that customer, you never lose sight of what the brand is all about. What direction is the brand headed? PLV was known as a sexy brand; now it’s more of a sensual brand. The PLV customer is feminine and more ladylike instead of grungy. It sounds more grown-up. It is a little bit. Our target customer is on average 32 years old, but it can swing into the twenties and late thirties. Biggest challenge so far? Getting to know our assets, whether human assets or brand assets, and leveraging them together, has been the greatest challenge so far. What brands is PLV in league with? We’d sit close to Sam Edelman or Stuart Weitzman. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Do you have any plans to launch a lower-priced line? We’re going to remain consistent and not try to tier up or down—otherwise we start confusing our customer. We’re going after an accessible, contemporary customer. Our other line, Kelsi Dagger, provides us with diversification, because you have price points below $120 versus up to $300 for PLV. Is the shoe industry becoming too crowded? No, but it’s an easier business as a point of entry since some of the minimum buys are not as high. I think all the competition just makes everyone sharper.
plus! A moment with...
PLV creative director david giordano Backstory, please! I actually began my career on the runway as a young model for European brands like DSquared before moving over to the business side. Before PLV, I worked for BCBG and Theory. When did you break out on your own? When I found a loft on Park Avenue South that I couldn’t afford, I called some friends who were independent sales reps who needed a place to showcase their lines and convinced them to share the rent. From there we created a progressive New York-based showroom that sold, financed, and marketed young, talented, and mostly local designers. The showroom is also where I developed my own ready-to-wear line. Where did the name Pour la Victoire come from? I wanted something French and attractive. I also loved that it was hard to say and spell. It struck me that once someone got it, they would never forget it! Also, at the time it felt fresh since most accessories collections in the marketplace were designers’ names, like Stuart Weitzman or Sam Edelman. Are you a Francophile? I love Paris and everything European, except the food...which I can take or leave.
Daily Doubles We always thought you looked familiar!
CORY BOND Male Model
DYLAN MCDERMOTT Practice Pinup
DESIREE GRUBER Marketing Maestra
GEENA DAVIS Beetlejuice Babe
GRACE CODDINGTON Cat-tastic Editor
IGGY BERLIN Drag-tastic Singer
NAOMI CAMPBELL Runway Empress
KERRY WASHINGTON Django Goddess
MALIK SO CHIC Reality Refugee FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
MR. CHOW A-list Maître D’
Harry Brant Ubiquitous Scenester
K. D. Lang Lesbian Crooner pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 5 ) ; g e t t y i m ag e s (4) ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 2)
Ready, Willing, and
Marketable Why are Berkeley College interns and graduates so well prepared? • Students learn current practices and the latest technologies from accomplished faculty, many of whom are working professionals with market experience • Advisory Boards help ensure relevant program and course content, based on marketplace needs • Internships or job-related assignments are required in all programs, providing students with valuable, practical experience
Chelsea Gramlich - Berkeley College Student Fashion Marketing and Management, Class of 2013 “My goal is to be a fashion forecaster, so the program at Berkeley is perfect for me. Professors have firsthand knowledge of what’s going on in the industry and give us lots of one-on-one attention. They’re very helpful; they truly want us to be successful. Our education continues outside of the classroom, too — participating in events like Fashion Week, clubs, internships, job opportunities, and more. I’m making connections and getting a great education!”
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call 800-446-5400, ext. BFN
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