The Daily Front Row

the

february 9–12, 2015

w o r t n fro

n o i h s a f ! d e l i e unv

the new awards the new Guard

PLUS: what’s

nouveau

right now

Trim: 21.5inW x 13.5inH

MICHAELKORS.COM

DAILY_020615_FINAL.indd All Pages

27 million strong:

Sexy Smart powerful ELLE wOMEN sEttiNg tHE AgENdA iN 2015 #ELLEAGENDA

MARCH ON NEWSSTANDS NOW.

2/6/15 5:17 PM

BCBGMA X A ZRIA FASHION ISL AND (949) 644-4798 BCBG.COM

RIGHT

NOW. EXCLUSIVELY OURS DESIGN LAB

VISIT OUR FLAGSHIP STORE ON FIFTH AVENUE AT 39TH STREET AND LORDANDTAYLOR.COM

12024 NYFW Premier Issue - WSWN.indd 1

RIGHT NOW.

1/30/15 11:09 AM

S:21”

SIMULATION OF PRODUCT RESULTS ON LASHES ENHANCED WITH LASH INSERTS. M AY B E L L I N E.com

Christy is wearing New Lash Sensational™ Full Fan Effect Mascara in Very Black. ©2015 Maybelline LLC.

S:21”

REVEAL LAYERS OF LASHES FOR THE

LASH

sensational FULL FAN EFFECT MASCARA Our UNIQUE FANNING BRUSH with 10 LAYERS OF BRISTLES. Inner bristles reach to reveal layers of lashes. Outer bristles unfold.

For a truly sensational full fan effect.

™

S:13”

NEW

F A N N I N G

B R U S

H

SENSATIONAL NEW FULL FAN EFFECT.

H C T WA E V I IT L

e v i l / m .co k e e w n o i h s a mbf

/ 5 1 0 2 W F/ 9 1 — 2 1 / 2 0 W F B #M

mbfashionweek

testing, Testing‌

Let

the CHIC begin!

Gigi Hadid at jean paul gaultier spring 2015 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

POP QUIZ!

It’s been a long, brutal winter—do you still know your Anjas from your Annas, your Golden Goose from your Canada Goose, and your lobs from your bobs? Take the test!

1. What hasn’t German bombshell Anna Ewers accomplished in the past year?

5. Peter Copping, the newly minted creative director at Oscar de la Renta, has not previously worked for…

a. Graced two covers of French Vogue b. Fronted an Alexander Wang campaign wearing only a pair of jeans, pulled down past her knees c. Channeled Brigitte Bardot in a shoot for the Pirelli calendar d. Spent Saturday morning eating eggs Benedict with a denim-clad Anna Wintour at Balthazar

a. Marc Jacobs b. Sonia Rykiel c. Christian Lacroix d. Alexander McQueen

a. “A decade of eating dangerously” b. “A desire to really rock my jorts” c. “A German experience” d. “A period of atonement and abstinence”

6. Which of the following is not for sale at JaredLetoMerch.com?

10. Where did Joseph Altuzarra say “I do” to fiancé Seth Weissman in November?

a. $32 red nylon fanny pack b. 12-pack of hair elastics suitable for the “man braid,” $6 c. $45 T-shirt proclaiming “Holy Guacamole” d. Book titled Haiti, featuring Leto’s photos, on sale for $49.99

2. The New York Times’ new menscentric section, debuting on Friday, April 5, will be called…

9. What inspired Cathy Horyn’s 10-day fast at Buchinger Wilhelmi, a wellness clinic on the shores of Lake Constance?

a. Armani/Ristorante b. Tavern on the Green c. The Rainbow Room d. The River Café

7. Vanessa Friedman referred to John Galliano’s first couture collection for Martin Margiela as…

a. Men’s Style b. Manual c. Friday Styles d. Gentleman’s Corner

a. “A slow stretch; a warm-up” b. “A resounding success, if not a colossal one” c. “A welcome departure from the house’s predictable formula of freakish kitsch” d. “The best thing to happen to London since the royal wedding”

3. Who did not attend Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea and Alex de Betak’s fashionfilled, white-tie wedding in the middle of a lake in Patagonia? a. Anja Rubik b. Sarah Lerfel c. David Karp d. Chloe Malle

HOW DID YOU FARE? 0–3 correct answers

You are…

REFINERY 29 Still relatively junior, but it’s nothing that a bit of assiduous studying of The Daily won’t fix. Might we suggest some back issues?

4–6 correct answers

4. What is Stephanie George’s new gig? a. Masterminding the turnaround of Maxim b. Attempting to make WWD profitable c. Trying to save Nylon’s print edition d. Ensuring that everything featured editorially in Lucky is for sale at BeachMint.com

8. What’s the latest with onetime ad-making maestro David Lipman, who was forced to shutter his agency in 2013? a. He’s working in-house at longtime Lipman client David Yurman b. He’s working at Town, a real estate agency c. He’s joined Penske Media as innovator in chief d. He’s moved his office into the Manhattan Mall to mastermind the relaunch of Steve & Barry’s

You are…HORACIO SILVA Once one of the industry’s ultimate insiders, you’ve traded in your fashion card for a job that’s a bit more…generalist. We understand the impulse, chéri, but that doesn’t mean you have to luxeify yourself out of the beat.

7–10 correct answers

You are…SUZY MENKES You industry lion! Your fashion savvy is so permanent and absolute that you couldn’t escape it, even if you wanted to.

1. D; 2. A; 3. C; 4. B; 5. D; 6. B; 7. A; 8. B; 9. C; 10. C h a d i d : g r e g k e s s l e r ; g e t t y i m a g e s ( 6 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 4 ) ; firstview; all others courtesy

LETTER From the Editor

Je Suis Daily!

Beware, dear chicsters! The juiciness you are about to encounter on these pages is dangerous, mostly because it’s addictive. Pace yourselves and enjoy every little bit. From your tales of behaving badly to the deliciously phony texts we dared to “intercept,” your Daily is full of the kind of joie you’ve come to expect of us every season—perhaps even more this time. Just moments ago, we returned from la Californie, where our first-annual Fashion Los Angeles Awards drew le tout Tinseltown (Jeremy! Gigi! Miley! Christian! Rihanna!) to celebrate the brilliant marriage between fashion and Hollywood. It’s a thrilling time in fashion, thanks to a nouvelle vague rejuvenating the most storied houses and so much new talent springing up like Karl’s daffodils. The future truly is now. As for our media issue? Expect your Daily to take full advantage of its freedom of expression and dish out one of the most uproarious seasons in our 13-year history. It feels great to be a teen. Our birthday wish? To go Hebdo!

FA IO IL FA SS HH IO NN WW EE EE KK DD AA IL Y.Y. CC OO MM

the

front row Editor in Chief, CEO

Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Peter Davis Group Executive Editor

Eddie Roche Deputy Editor

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Editor at Large Ashley Baker Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Director George Maier President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Directors Mark Tevis, Chloe Worden Trade Publications Director Mindy Dorf Outside offices: Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Contributing Marketing Director Stephen McCarthy Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

chanel haute couture spring 2015

On the cover: courtesy

Maartje Verhoef in Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2015 photographed by FirstView.

PR EDICTED

WHO’S SHOWING

Discuss:

PA RTY GS

She’s now going by “DJ Lo Down Loretta Brown.”

R A NKIN

Who’s showing for the premiere fois during NYFW? Two CFDA members, a Hearst, and a former NBA player, to name a few.

Catch us at…

1. The Daily’s Models Issue party on Friday, 2/13 (obvi!)

2. The Kayne West x Adidas party on Thursday, 2/12 3. Fendi’s store opening on Friday, 2/13 4. Net-A-Porter’s dinner to welcome Sarah Rutson on Tuesday, 2/17 5. Chloé’s fragrance launch at Ladurée Soho, hosted by Clémence Poésy on Tuesday, 2/10

Erykah Badu

your daily dose

Daily fave Som is debuting his first collection as designer of Blue Les Copains.

DISCUSS

☛ Your dear Daily is already thinking ahead to July, when New York Fashion Week: Men’s will debut in our fair city. Can you even handle the thought of three dishfilled issues (July 13, 14, and 16) of, wait for it, The Daily Male, which will be partout at the shows, presentations, and trade shows? Well, get ready. And we’re bringing our very own awards show to town—the MFAs, or Men’s Fashion Awards. Expect the star power and icon quotient you’ve come to enjoy at the Fashion Media Awards and the Fashion Los Angeles Awards. Be chic this week, and an invite will be in the....Male!

RETOUCHED By an angel!

What if…

Vanessa Friedman and Cathy Horyn switched coifs?

Rihanna

Vanessa avec crop

Blue Les Copains

by Peter Som

Sarah Jessica Parker

Famous last name aside, she’s also a CFDA member and the designer behind Candela, the boho-luxe clothing label inspired by her youth on a Uruguayan ranch.

Stay tuned for her eponymous debut this week!

JI OH This Korean-born designer has a knack for creating hip downtown attire that looks as good with a pair of heels as it does with a pair of creepers.

Gabriela Cadena Kendall Jenner

This Ecuadorian-born, New York–based designer’s chic gowns have already been worn by the likes of Camilla Alves, Chanel Iman, and Adriana Lima.

Brock

EYE CANDY A-listers galore will be braving le froid for NYFW. We approve!

Gabriela Hearst

Sofia Coppola Karl Lagerfeld

Stay tuned for this one, darlings! The label founded by Californian Laura Vassar and Texan Kris Brock has already caught the attention of Vogue.

PLUS!

Franco Lacosta According to IMDB, Lacosta has worked for America’s Next Top Model.

A sleeker Cathy

Cristina Ruales

This designer got her line going with $16,940 from a Kickstarter campaign.

RIP, CHER BRANDS

We bid a somber adieu to a number of labels recently.

You will be missed…well, some of you.

Piperlime 2006–2015 Founded by Gap, Inc. “Damn you, Zappos”

C. Wonder 2011–2015 Founded by Chris Burch “It was never about Tory”

Kate Spade Saturday 2013–2015 Founded by the Kate Spade label “So long, sister brand” Jones New York 1970–2015 Founded by Sidney Kimmel “The workplace skirt suit has met its maker”

Asaf Ganot This menswear designer was a former pro-basketball player in Brazil.

Viktor & Rolf ready-to-wear 2000–2015 Founded by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren

Julianna Bass She was the grand-prize winner for the second season of the Diet Coke Young Designer Challenge.

“Vive la couture” bfanyc.com (8); getty images (3); patrickmcmullan.com (3); shutterstock

© 2015 Time inc. All righTs reserved. InStyle is A regisTered TrAdemArk of Time inc.

M a rC h 2 0 15 issue e o n sa l noW

WE BELIEVE In thE poWEr of styLE Kerry Washington in Céline photographed by jan Welters

missi

Daily darling Betsey Johnson is nowhere—simply nowhere!—on this season’s fashion calendar. We need to know what’s up. If anyone has any information on Johnson’s whereabouts, please contact Eddie Roche immediatamente.

RANDOMNESS! With Alber Elbaz

You’re always so happy!

Ha, I don’t think that is true!

I’m a funny person, but even clowns cannot always be happy.

Who makes you laugh?

Everything and everyone!

I’m laughing all the time.

Every word can make me laugh—or cry.

Been hitting the gym?

When I installed a home gym, I thought I’d become an athlete, but the opposite is happening.

It’s like when parents buy a piano and think their kid will be a professional. The moment it enters the living room is the moment the kid stops playing.

CHIC-OVERS: PRE-OSCARS INTERVENTION EDITION Rosamund Pike, honey. Your post-baby body is truly a marvel, but a few deadly frocks are obscuring all that hard work!

Before you grace the Oscars’ tapis rouge, please consider the following choices…

ng

z u z B Fix

missing

BETSEY, CALL HOME!

SCENE

☛ Almond is opening up a Tribeca outpost on Wednesday, February 18, just in time for lunch post-Kors at Spring Studios. Mangia!... ☛ Carnivores, take note: Lincoln Square Steak, from the folks behind Club A Steakhouse, is officially open for business. The perfect excuse for a midday steak and martini between catwalks, non?... ☛ Check out New York Men’s Day on Wednesday, February 11, at Industria Studios.

Oodles of greats will show, including Lucio Castro, Carlos Campos, and Timo Weiland. ☛ And! On Friday, February 13, J.R. Smith and Gigi Hadid will host a soirée linking up Fashion Week and the NBA’s All-Star Weekend at Maybelline New York’s lounge at MADE.

AN EDGY ARMANI PRIVÉ The deshabille look is totally your thing—case in point: the cutouts on your Globes gown—but a more refined take on the look will really wow the crowd.

A ROMANTIC GIAMBATTISTA VALLI We know you love a bit of volume, but go for a body-skimming style with a bit of fashion flare. You need Giamba on speed dial!

CAREER UPDATE! With Shiona Turini You left your market director gig at Cosmo in November.

What’s new?

I’m a consultant.

I have a few projects in Bermuda, where I’m from. I’m also working with a new designer, Kristen Crawley, and her fine jewelry line, KDIA. Going to shows?

Definitely. I’m Amazon Fashion’s style correspondent for Fashion Week. I’m also contributing to The Cut by creating videos discussing how people interpret runway looks and make them their own.

How has your wardrobe reflected your career change?

After my first week of going from meeting to coffee to cocktails in heels, I embraced flats.

Do you still love crop tops?

A crop top and a high waist flatter my body. I’m not a model— I have curves, and I love them.

A SAUCY VERSACE Nod to your most memorable, blooddrenched Gone Girl scene with this splendid crimson sheath.

ALEX WANG VENUE ALERT! Brooklyn, c’est fini? Seems so. Alexander Wang has moved his show back to Manhattan—Pier 36 between the Williamsburg and Manhattan bridges, to be exact. Traveling via subway? Take the F to East Broadway—and be prepared to walk. Let’s hope the weather cooperates…

g e t t y i m a g e s ( 8 ) ; f i r s t v i ew ( 4 ) ; b f a n y c . c o m ( 2 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ; s h u t t e r s to c k ; all others courtesy

Pop Artist Pump up your pout with Maybelline New York’s Color Sensational Rebel Bloom Lipstick. With 10 delicious shades to choose from, you’ll find plenty of ways to achieve a statement lip. (We’re partial to the ’60s effect given by Petal Pink à la Nanette Lepore’s Spring ’15 runway.) Complete the look with Volum’ Express Pumped Up! Colossal Waterproof Mascara: Just sweep the double-shot brush from root to tip, and achieve your biggest and best lashes ever.

FA SH WW EE CO FA S IHOI N ON EK ED KA D IALIY. L Y. CM OM

VENUE CHECK! With Jennifer Blumin, founder and president, The Skylight Group

Why do you think there has been a migration away from the Tents?

A fashion show isn’t just about the people in the room anymore. Brands want to make it a four-dimensional experience that lives beyond Fashion Week. That’s why it’s been important for our fashion clients to have several days in the space. It used to be only the Ralphs and the Calvins that could afford to branch out, but I think people are following suit because they need to be able to fully express their vision.

Our Skylight spaces are adaptively reused landmark buildings that are pieces of New York history, and designers and journalists love to experience that.

Are you getting more inquiries now that Lincoln Center is soon to be no longer?

The diaspora from Lincoln Center has been going on for a long time, so we have a lot of repeat clients. There are designers who are bummed that the Tents are closing, and Skylight, or something like it, is not for every brand, but I do know that whatever happens, you’re not going to get my clients to fit into a tent.

Will Fashion Week ever make it to Brooklyn?

Most of the big spaces in the city that make sense for Fashion Week exist along the west side of Manhattan, and unless something changes transport-wise, Brooklyn is not realistic.

z Bu z Fix

SCENE

☛ A few more parties, just to give you #FOMO: Wednesday, February 11, will be an evening of two chic dinners—one for Vogue Mexico and another for Rachel Comey. ☛ The next evening, team Nordstrom will toast Caroline Issa. ☛ Jon Bon Jovi alert! The iconic Jersey boy is curating and hosting a concert series with Kenneth Cole on Thursday, February 12 at Cole’s store in Soho.

HART TO HART, PART ONE!

With David Hart, whose Westernthemed collection will debut on February 11 Who’s your favorite cowboy?

Hopalong Cassidy.

And cowgirl?

Jane Russell as Calamity Jane.

How’s your two-step?

Awful, but I learned square dancing in high school. All the girls wanted to be my partner, so I guess I wasn’t too bad.

Favorite country song?

“Big Iron” by Marty Robbins. It’s in my show!

Are you down with Dolly?

Yes. I’ve even been to Dollywood!

What’s your favorite city in Texas?

Dallas. There’s a great Neiman Marcus.

Have you ever ridden a bull?

Only a mechanical one...at a bar, and I was wasted.

John Wayne or Clint Eastwood?

John Wayne. I like the fringe.

HART TO HART, PART TWO! With King of Hart founder Melissa Joan Hart Where did you come up with the name King of Harts for your new boys’ clothing line?

When my husband, Mark, and I began planning the concept, we wanted to express that it was a cool, male-driven look. As we discussed everything, we also thought it would be good to incorporate Hart somehow.

We went through many, many ideas before we landed on King of Harts, which we felt showcased the fun and cool nature of the clothes we are making! Ever since I had my first boy I have wanted to create a clothing line, and it has been so exciting watching this come to fruition.

Does your husband’s style find its way into the designs?

Definitely. In fact, he’s on his way to the wash house as we speak to be sure the denim for our fall line is turning out perfectly.

What do you think is missing in the boys’ clothing realm?

We really saw a lack of original graphic T-shirts and wanted to create a line that spoke to that need!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GOING NUTS!

With Donald Robertson

His latest project? “Fashion Is Nuts,” a 40-page illustrated book (limited to 1,000 copies) and 10 oversize posters that will be sold at spots such as the Standard Hotel. Robertson’s goofy portraits of Anna Wintour, Pharrell Williams, and other fashion faces are painted on to walnuts, which were then photographed by Henry Leutwyler and designed by WATER NYC to look totally nutso.

What gave you this nutty idea?

I am trying to entertain you. Then you will buy my nut merchandise and I can put my five children through school!

Any nut allergies?

There is no such thing as a nut allergy in France, which is why we are launching in Colette in Paris.

Do you eat the nuts?

I may have adjusted my nuts while painting them. Eat them?

Text Savvy

What’s the most overused emoji in fashion? The Daily investigates…

Aliza Licht “No explanation necessary.”

Eva Chen “I use emoji a little too frequently in business correspondence—giving approval on an order for e-commerce, text edits, scheduling questions, the list goes on.”

Linda Fargo “Sorry, but I own this one!”

Timo Weiland “Because of our recent collaboration with Champion Athleticwear!”

Jane Keltner de Valle “Love always trumps a like!”

Jeremy Scott “I use the angel boy…’cause that is me!”

bfa n y c . c o m ( 1 4 ) ; g e tt y i m ag e s ( 2 ) ; all o th e r s c o u r t e s y

HAVE NO RESERVATIONS Our Traveling Luxury Consumer purchases more fashion, accessories and luxury goods than all major fashion titles.

Maybe it’s time for a new departure gate.

THE MOST ACCLAIMED BRAND OF THE YEAR Ad Age A-List

| Adweek Hot List | Ad Age Editor Of The Year

Fix Oscar de la Renta faux pearl brooch

Chic

Charlotte Olympia “Hollywood” platform sandals

Lunch

Anya Hindmarch “Valorie” glitterfinished clutch

“I learned more about the gorge Iris & Ink collection, and I found a dress for my cohosting friend to loan for the SAGs, pulled a bunch of stuff for shoots, and caught up with some fabulous peers like George and Cameron. And I loved meeting the fabulous Brits Andres and Linda from The Outnet!”

—Zanna Roberts Rassi

SCene

The Daily and The Outnet gathered Hollywood’s The Outnet’s Linda hautest influencers for lunch in Weho Fulford and Zanna to discuss the addictive shopping site’s Roberts Rassi offerings for awards season. Racks of looks from The Outnet’s private label Iris & Ink surrounded the table, which bloomed with flowers by Elizabeth Wyrick of Celadon and Celery. George Kotsiopoulos, Minnie Mortimer, Cameron Silver, Lyn Paolo (the costume designer for Scandal), Kristi Elong of the Currently Crushing blog, stylists Jason Rembert and Joey Tierney, E! fashion guru Zanna Roberts Rassi, The Outnet’s global head of PR Linda Fulford, and PR manager Bridgett Borg and Revenge costumer Jill Ohanneson chatted up Andres Sosa, The Outnet’s director Diane von Furstenberg of global sales and marketing.

Spring 2015 “I want to log on and shop right now!” exclaimed Mortimer, the A-list party fixture. ☛

Michael Kors Spring 2015

Jason Rembert

“My favorite part of the lunch is learning how The Outnet gathers the merchandise for their site. Who doesn’t like a bargain? I wish they had men’s things, but then again it wouldn’t be good for my shopping addiction!”

—Cameron Silver

Kenneth Jay Lane lapis and crystal earrings

Kenneth Jay Lane cuff

Monica Vinader “Riva” ring

“Fashion now is less trend-driven than ever, so the idea of something being ‘so last season’ is just plain stupid—which makes shopping The Outnet the same as strolling down Rodeo Drive.”

—George Kotsiopoulos

Oscar de la Renta navette gold-plated cabochon necklace

Tamara Mellon “Fatale” sandal

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Valentino studded embossed PV clutch

The Outnet’s Andres Sosa and George Kotsiopoulos g e tt y i mag e s ; gr e g k e ssl e r ( 2 ) ; all ot h e rs co u rt e s y

TheDaily_PG_FEB15.indd 1

1/22/15 3:04 PM

A R T D I R : PA U L M A R C I A N O P H : D AV I D B E L L E M E R E

GUESS?©2015

chic Map Pier 59 Studios, 59 Chelsea Piers #2 TH Timo Weiland SS Brandon Sun

It’s

Showtime!

Too exhausted to deal with synching your calendars? Join the club. Rip out our handy visual where-to-go guide! BY DENA SILVER

547 W. 26th St.

S DKNY M Donna Karan

11 W. 42nd St.

T Oscar de la Renta

Center 548, 548 W. 22nd St. F Kate Spade F Suno S Misha Nonoo

The Waterfront, 269 11th Ave.

545 W. 22nd St.

S Tibi

Pier 36, 299 South St.

M 3.1 Phillip Lim

S Alexander Wang

Skylight Clarkson Sq., 550 Washington St. TH Ralph Lauren

MADE Fashion Week at Milk Studios, 450 W. 15th St. F F S M T W

Wes Gordon Cushnie et Ochs Dion Lee Houghton Baja East Jeremy Scott

F Sally LaPointe S Edun

T

TH Ryan Roche

Skylight Clarkson Sq. Studio III, 330 West St.

Skylight Modern, 537 W. 27th St.

S Derek Lam T Vera Wang

The High Line Hotel, 180 10th Ave.

Artbeam, 540 W. 21st St. TH F S S M

Honor Zimmermann Christian Siriano Tracy Reese Milly by Michelle Smith

450 W. 14th St. M Rosie Assoulin

511 W. 25th St.

F Adam Selman

25 Broadway

S Victoria Beckham

441 W. 14th St. S Yigal Azrouël

Spring Studios, 50 Varick St. F S S M W TH

Jason Wu Altuzarra Diane von Furstenberg Rag & Bone Michael Kors Calvin Klein Collection

Pop14, 353 W. 14th St. 330 Hudson St. S Public School TH J. Mendel

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

W Nanette Lepore

The IAC Building, 555 W. 18th St. S Prabal Gurung W Delpozo

Lincoln Center TH TH TH TH TH F F F S S S M M M M T W

BCBG Max Azria Costello Tagliapietra Tadashi Shoji TOME Todd Snyder Rebecca Minkoff Nicole Miller Monique Lhuillier Mara Hoffman Hervé Léger Lacoste Carolina Herrera Dennis Basso Reem Acra Pamella Roland Naeem Khan Anna Sui

Park Avenue Armory, 643 Park Ave. M Tommy Hilfiger TH Marc Jacobs

Affirmation Arts, 523 W. 37th St. T Rachel Zoe

The St. Regis Hotel, 2 E. 55th St. W Marchesa

583 Park Ave. T Tory Burch

SIR Stage37, 508 W. 37th St.

S Thakoon T Narciso Rodriguez

Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Station, 89 E. 42nd St.

1 Sutton Pl. South

W Lisa Perry

M Zac Posen

ng, .

g

The Legend W Wednesday, February 11

YOUR CHARIOT AWAITS!

TH Thursday, February 12 F Friday, February 13 S Saturday, February 14 S Sunday, February 15 M Monday, February 16 T Tuesday, February 17 W Wednesday, February 18 TH Thursday, February 19 bfa n y c . c o m ( 4 0 ) ; g ett y ima g es ( 2 ) ; pat r ic k mcm u lla n . c o m ( 1 9 ) ; sh u tte r st o c k ; all o the r s c o u r tes y

a red-haute hol l

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

l lywood night It was a front row for the ages— Miley! Rihanna! Katy! Kanye!

Drew!—at The Daily Front Row’s first-annual Fashion Los Angeles awards at the Sunset Tower Hotel in the heart of West Hollywood, which celebrated the marriage of fashion and Hollywood and the creative geniuses who make it all happen.

Yahoo! Style editor in chief Joe Zee and E! fashion guru Zanna Roberts Rassi hosted the hour-long ceremony, during which presenters such as Kanye West, Kerry Washington, Armie Hammer, and Nicole Richie toasted honorees Christian Louboutin, Gigi Hadid, Italo Zucchelli, Mazdack Rassi, Ilaria Urbinati, Ann Caruso, Ariel Foxman, emerging designer August Getty, and the evening’s big winner, Womenswear Designer of the Year Jeremy Scott.

Simply destroyed to have missed it?

Turn the page…

Emcees Zanna Roberts Rassi and Joe Zee welcome the crowd

getty images

CHIC Snaps

miley cyrus,

presenter “You guys are catching me in rare form. I’m sober, because I was told to keep it to, like, one minute. I’m also wearing clothes this evening, and that’s also very rare for me. When I do put on some clothes, most likely Jeremy Scott designed [them].

You can thank him when I don’t have my titties out. Something that I thought was the most badass thing that was said all night was it’s f**king about being nice to people, and about loving each other! And if we can look cool when we do it, that’s badass, but you know what? Sometimes you look like s**t and you can still be nice. Jeremy makes us able to be a f**king Barbie. He lets us wear Shrek. He lets us wear SpongeBob. It’s pretty much the coolest thing, and to be able to have fun with fashion, which is sometimes something that we all forget—that it’s really important to keep having fun, and be happy, and to love what we do.”

jeremy scott, Womenswear Designer of the Year “I have to thank Miss Miley, who turned the table on me and actually made things for my show; Rihanna, who I can hardly name a video you haven’t worn something of mine; and my baby Katy [Perry], now we’re doing the Super Bowl together. And my best friend, the love of my life, Pablo [Olea]. I dragged him to Paris to do my first show. When I had no money for stamps, he walked around Paris with a map and hand-delivered 2,000 invitations. When I needed to make my own shoes, before Mr. Louboutin came into my life, he helped me hand-make shoes for my first show.

You know, before the critics knew my name, he was touting my name, and when the critics loved me, he was there by my side. And when the critics didn’t love me, he loved me more. Everything I do is because of him. Thank you for taking my dream and making it our dream. I love you.”

CHIC Snaps

nicole richie, presenter

“I didn’t know that this crowd was going to be so cool! Gigi Hadid has had an extraordinary year. Carine Roitfeld put her on the cover of her CR Fashion Book; she made her New York Fashion Week debut walking for Jeremy Scott; starred in Tom Ford’s eyewear campaign; shot with Gilles Bensimon for The Daily Summer; appeared in the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue; she walked for Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier; shot the Spring 2015 campaign for Guess; and appears in the legendary Pirelli calendar. Alright. Gigi is dope. And more importantly, Gigi is a good person. She is somebody that exudes love all around her. Fashion is a form to express yourself, and it is a way for you to say who you are to the world, and Gigi does that. And she’s such a good person; she is a ray of sunshine.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

gigi hadid, Model of the Year

“I’m really glad I’m not crying. I’m so honored to accept this award. I’m only 19. Today is a dream come true. I want to thank Carine Roitfeld and Stephen Gan. I want to thank those who were kind to me from the start, who encouraged me to pay that kindness forward. Maybelline New York, I can’t thank you enough for giving me the opportunity. It’s an honor to represent an incredible brand that really celebrates strong, independent, creative women all over the world. I hope to always make you proud.” b fa n yc . c o m ; a l l ot h e r s g e t t y i m a g e s

S:10.25 in

S:13 in

Where can you go to find the very best that Southern California has to offer? Follow your dreams to a city unlike any other. Where the legendary Sunset Strip meets the stylish West Hollywood Design District. Where eclectic dining meets electric nightlife.

Leave everything that’s conventional, expected and mundane at home, and go big, go bold, go WeHo. visitwesthollywood.com

CHIC Snaps

italo zucchelli,

menswear designer of the year “I’m so happy to be here tonight at the very first, of a long series, of Fashion Los Angeles Awards. I want to thank all these amazing people. Like Ciara, like Kanye.

The people that I have been collaborating with, that I work with, that inspire me, and that made my clothes all so amazing. And I have a long list I cannot, you know…

Kanye, Ciara, Usher, Alexander Skarsgård, Matt Bomer. It’s a very, very long list that I cannot even remember. You all inspire me, you’re all amazing, and I’m so glad to work with all of you.”

ciara, presenter

mazdack rassi,

KANYE WEST, presenter

fashion innovator of the year “It is an honor to receive this award tonight. It is also a great honor to receive it from one of the most visionary artists of our time, so thank you, Kanye. I want to thank my beautiful wife, Zanna, here tonight, keeping it in the family. Innovation is a collaborative effort, so I accept this award on behalf of the 200 innovators back at Milk in both New York and Los Angeles. They are the people that work every day and come up with incredible visionary ideas.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“I’m feeling a lot of great energy in here. Italo, you inspire me in so many ways. My first show that I went to of yours, I walked away with such a great experience. You killed it, as usual. It was classic. It was timeless. It was amazing. It was everything, and it was genius. You are an awesome human being. Your humility is inspiring. To be so talented, and so successful, and be the way that you are, you inspire me as an artist. I’m really, really happy to be here.”

“God is the No. 1 creator. Anytime we create, we’re an extension of doing his work on Earth while we’re here. Fashion is what defines the times. There are no movies without fashion; we define the times. Everyone is a ‘fashion insider.’ You know it’s illegal to be naked. We have the power to change the world. I believe that through design, because design is the closest to truth, problem-solving. Truth is the closest to love. Love is the closest thing to God, and God is love.” getty images

BLOOMINGDALE’S SOUTHAMPTON 53C Jobs Lane

magaschoni.com Daily Front Row Ad 20.indd 1

2/3/15 9:43 PM

CHIC Snaps

kerry washington, presenter

christian louboutin, Shoe Designer of the Year

“What a fantastic evening. I’m so inspired by so much of what I’ve been hearing; it’s so good that everyone’s speaking from their hearts. I am thrilled to be here tonight to present to this extraordinarily talented human being, Christian Louboutin. I never really know who a character is until I know what shoe she wears, because the shoe you wear defines how you stand in the world and how you walk in the world. And when I slipped on my first red sole, I knew who I was in that world. I knew how to be bigger than myself, and yet still myself, and that’s what your shoes do. They elevate who we are inside and out. You make us taller as women.”

“Two or three things I should say about myself: I’m French, so that’s one thing.

So, two or three things I should say about the French. We never give speeches.

The second thing is that they’re pretty stubborn, which I am totally too. When I’m designing shoes, I’m thinking of women. I’m not a dress designer. I’m just doing shoes, so she’s naked. She has an attitude. She’s quite powerful. She loves more than anything else to be a woman. She’s very happy to be a woman, and she’s a beautiful woman. For two weeks, the French have been in a very complicated thing, so Je suis Charlie. And tonight, je ne suis pas Charlie, je suis Daily, et je suis Kerry.”

drew barrymore, presenter “I am so excited to gush and present anything to Ariel, including this very esteemed award. I think the world of this man. He basically brings a metaphorical corsage when you hang out with him. He makes you feel special, and like a lady. He is a true gentleman and thoughtful, and present, and kind. You have, with your magazine and your whole career, shown how to be at the top of your game and the most successful by showing women at their best. You have managed to be the most classy and timeless periodical. InStyle is beyond entertaining and delicious each month. Thank you for putting positivity out there and then having, like, the most ad buys for it!”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

ariel foxman,

Fashion Media Brand of the Year, InStyle “We’ve had our 21st birthday at InStyle. We have, from day one, committed to running only celebrities when it comes to fashion editorial.

It is about women who have stories to tell, who have confidence, and who inspire our readers.

That has been the secret to our enduring success. It is why millions of readers come back to us. They see themselves in the images that we create. They can dream, but they can also relate.”

b fa n yc . c o m ; a l l ot h e r s g e t t y i m a g e s

ilaria urbinati, Menswear Stylist of the Year armie hammer, Presenter

archie pAnjabi,

Presenter “Ann is a true perfectionist, with a great vision. She’s extremely honest, and direct, telling you exactly how it is. And that’s exactly what you need in a good stylist.

Ann went on to dress me for the Golden Globes and the NAACP Awards. At that time, Ann was diagnosed with cancer for the second time, but you would have never known it. She was always prepared, maintaining a calming way about her, which was very refreshing among the chaos of the red carpet. Ann has an extraordinary career, with a wide range of achievements.

Anne’s accomplishments are nothing short of amazing.”

ann caruso,

womenswear stylist of the year “I had an incredible, challenging, and exciting year. I believe when you love what you do, and you ask for what you need, it comes to you. The work that I wanted and needed just seemed to come to me. It was more than just the fashion, it was the connection to the people who I worked with, it was the causes that I worked for, and the brands that I helped, and that’s what made it rewarding for me. I’ve learned that no matter what obstacles are in your way, that you can achieve whatever you want to, and do what you want. And I love fashion, and I’m so grateful to be here tonight.”

Dylan Penn, Presenter

august getty,

emerging designer of the Year “I truthfully don’t know how I’m allowed to be in a room with so many cool people. I was born here and moved, but when I moved back this was the first place that I ever lived at, and I remember looking out one of my windows and seeing a party and being like, ‘Holy s**t, I wish I could be here,’ and now I am. Thank you so much to The Daily. Now’s our time. I’m very, very appreciative.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

max and lubov azria,

anniversary Tribute Max: “It looks like I’m the second French guy here [Laughs]. Thank you very much for everything. We love the feeling of Hervé Léger.”

Lubov: “I have to say this room is so inspirational. This is our first award, and I’m just in awe of everyone who’s sitting here. Familiar faces, gorgeous, gorgeous people. I want to thank The Daily Front Row and Brandusa [Niro] and the whole team for the incredible recognition. You’ve been in our front row since the first Hervé Léger show.

It took us eight years to figure out how to do those dresses. For the past 30 years, the distinctive Hervé Léger heritage begins and ends with the female form. The aesthetic is powerful, confident, and exclusive, leading an unforgettable impression of centrality and style. We accept this honor on behalf of the entire Hervé Léger team, who is phenomenal. I mean, can you imagine what we can do with one bandage?” getty images

Minka Kelly, Presenter

credit

y t Par

Ariel Foxman and Drew Barrymore

Extra!

Joe Zee

Zanna Roberts Rassi and Mazdack Rassi

Rose McGowan

Fix

Ann Caruso Gigi Hadid, new face of Maybelline New York and Cody Simpson

Nick Bateman

Epic front-row alert: Miley Cyrus, Jeremy Scott, Rihanna, Katy Perry, and Kanye West

MORE FLAs HEAVEN!

Evian by Kenzo

No shocker here: The FLA Awards exploded on social media. Rihanna raved about her pal Jeremy Scott on Instagram, exclaiming, “Thank you for sharing your light with us.” And the #FLA hashtag FAN ART ALERT! Turkish was seriously trending on Illustrator Ceren Ünler was so Twitter: @PanjabiArchie inspired by the party that she Congrats to @ArielFoxman posted this killer illo on her Instagram feed, @cunler. @ITSJEREMYSCOTT @LouboutinWorld @AGettyAtelier on your achievement at @DailyFrontRow Fashion LA Awards. ☛ @SI_Swimsuit Congratulations @GiGiHadid on being named @DailyFrontRow Model of the Year! ☛ @rachelzoe Smooches with my @nicolerichie last night celebrating amazing talent & friends at the @DailyFrontRow awards. ☛

Louise Roe and Cameron Silver

Drew Barrymore with goodies courtesy of Moroccan Oil

Elizabeth Chambers and Armie Hammer

Maybelline New York

Paul Turcotte

Christian Louboutin and Kerry Washington Rachel Zoe

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Katy Perry and Nicole Richie

Italo Zucchelli and Ciara

b f anyc . c o m ( 4 ) ; all o thers getty i mages

F O R T H O S E W I T H A D I S C E R N I N G TA S T E F O R P E R F O R M A N C E A N D S T Y L E .

60 years of professional haircare and artistry | kenraprofessional.com

KP_TheDaily_NYFW_Premiere.indd 1

2/4/15 5:04 PM

PHOTO BY CLINT SPAULDING FOR PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM AT MARC JACOBS SPRING 2015 SHOW Featuring BAO BAO ISSEY MIYAKE Handbag

EXHIBIT A Letter from de Givenchy in Paris to de Givenchy in New York

Cher nephew,

You’re American, peut-être you can ex plain something to me: Kimye, c’est qui?

I ju st saw a photo of cette fille in Match wear ing a dress that was cr edited to Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci…gr ace à dieu he uses his own name. Anyway : Kimye. C’est sûr que she’s no Audrey, no t even close, so for the sake of our sani ty, let’s try to igno re this person and m eanwhile, can you orchestrate a mee ting between that Riccardo char acter and Emilia Clarke? J’ad ore GoT. Yours, Tonton

NEW YORK FASHION COURT OF TION LIMITED JURISDIC [redacted], plantiff vs. [redacted], defendant Complaint for: t 1) Sexual Harassmen ss ion of Emotional Distre 2) Intentional Inflict Conditions 3) Precarious Working TIONS FACTUAL ALLEGA

covering cted], and a reporter ed employee of [reda 1. As a full-time, salari job cted]’s primary it is among Ms. [reda the fashion industry, dy-to-wear collections women’s and men’s rea the d en att to s itie bil responsi d Paris. igner in New York, Milan, an the fashion show of des ile seated front row at wh , 15 20 , 22 ary nu male 2. On Ja jected to exposure of d] was repeatedly sub Rick Owens, [redacte

genitalia. to complain, she was cted] called her editor da [re en wh w, sho 3. After the be studied as art” how “fashion should ut abo e tur lec y gth up.” subjected to a len ure, honey, so suck it ncing classical sculpt ere ref t jus s wa ick “R and s and fered from nightmare nt, [redacted] has suf 4. Following the incide d all males. general anxiety aroun by the mere sight of ficiently traumatized suf n bee o als s ha d] 5. [Redacte all her Rick Owens entially forced to sell ess n bee s ha she t Owens’ name tha s. ghly an 85 percent los eRealReal.com at rou Th on s ket jac r the lea

k c a H L A T TO

R E P PA L I A TR Y N O H P sly Deliciou om r f s t c a f i art ’s y l i a D THE e v i h c r a fashion

follows: t against defendant as iff prays for judgmen int pla E, OR EF ER WH 0 amount of $450,00 d 1. For damages in the t herein incurred, an ey’s fees and cost of sui d 2. Reasonable attorn rea stFashion Week mu m Owens, printed in fro gy olo ap c bli pu A 3.

The Daily Front Row

COUR T E S Y G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; e v e r ett c o l l e c ti o n ( 2 ) ; s h u tte r st o c k

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

C IT B I ES H SAG een EX w MES Gonna be back to hotel late, caro seeing Ralph Rucci, then with Miguel Adrover… counting on you to snuggle bambino

FROM: [REDACTED}, Human Resources TO: [REDACTED], Corporate SUBJECT LINE: EIC Search I’m still working on finding a replacement for [REDACTED]. We must think outside the box. Any interest in the No. 2 at Popular Mechanics?

FROM: [REDACTED], Corporate TO: [REDACTED], Human Resources For an entertainment bible? We’ve gone the established-yet-flounderingmass-consumer-mag route. Never again. I need someone who will put fear in the heart of Janice Min. Have you reached out to Nikki Finke?

FROM: [REDACTED], Human Resources TO: [REDACTED], Corporate I finally got her number from a friend who works in legal for Jay Penske. She was TB IBI H open to the idea, but I am m EX ail fro n o under the impression that an E-m ersati hum v f n o o she doesn't leave her c or ect es to r o dir t c apartment very often. irec our res rial d I have real concerns to edi about her ability to manage a 50-person staff in New York from an apartment in L.A. What about the founding editor of Modern Farmer? Did you see that lovefest in the Times?

FROM: [REDACTED], Corporate TO: [REDACTED], Human Resources Now we’re talking. Does she have any cred with the Stephen Huvane set?

FROM: [REDACTED], Human Resources TO: [REDACTED], Corporate I’ll find out, but I bet she’d charm them.

I hear Stephen loves fresh produce!

Va bene…tomorrow it’s your turn. Meeting Chris Burch for at Junior’s…can you believe these Americans?

ac d], [red dacte st [re le mo p cou ently rec d from se te ous on hou hi fas

Si, amore…already on my third of the day.

BTW, Pat Wexler says you can go see her this week…adoro this woman!

FROM: [REDACTED], LEGAL DEPARTMENT TO: [REDACTED], managing editor, [REDACTED] FASHION MAGAZINE RE: “THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS VOLCANO RETREATS,” MARCH 2015 ISSUE OF [REDACTED] In light of the recent political activity in Yemen, we must insist that [REDACTED] and its editors refrain from publishing contributing editor [REDACTED]’s story on “Yes to Yemen: The World’s Most Luxurious Volcano Retreats.” While it is understood there are newsworthy destinations in the region, given the government’s current chaos and shelling of the presidential residence, it will appear insensitive and unsafe to encourage readers to visit this region touristically. For further understanding of why publication of this piece must not go forward, and why the line “Yemen: Charming and Delightful” must be removed from the March cover immediately, please refer to The New York Times or, alternatively, ring David Remnick at extension [REDACTED].

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

T TEX pted bet and c r e ] d te e n i t

D BIT ges I H EX t messa

JANUARY 2015 EXPENSE REPORT, [REDACTED] DOWNTOWN MEDIA CONGLOMERATE

! o w T d n u o R Vendor

Business Purpose

Date

Amount

Zappos.com

Purchase of Brooks’ “comfort shoes”

1/1

$42.10

For express purpose of completing .8-mile walk from subway station to office.

Big Apple Car

Ride home after late night

1/6

Writing Galliano review…How RU gonna handle that shameless Kawakubo moment?

$293.53

She lives in the Berkshires.

Locanda Verde

Pastries for team breakfast meeting

1/8

n of wee bet ditor e e it ion ebs fash ted] w rt at dac terpa zine [re aga oun to c ted] m dac [re

Tex

??

$397.22

Including interns, we have 24 department members, and muffins at Locanda Verde cost $4.50, on average, plus tax. Unfortunately, this is only place to procure breakfast pastries within walking distance.

Dunno…you know how much she

him.

Any peon at Refinery29 is going to Do you want to lose all cred?

I can’t decide what’s worse—the from her or the mockery from the blogs. Probably the

American Cut lunch with [redacted], VP of PR, [redacted]

1/13

$482.10

[Redacted] is an advertiser, and as you know, they’ve had a tough quarter. It’s not our fault a petit filet costs $78. Also, [redacted] doesn’t even like him. Take up with our publisher, okay?

$100 is reimbursable Leather Spa Cleaning/restoration of handbag collection

1/28

$5,133.97

HYSTERICAL!

After [REDACTED] returned home after work one evening and found mouse droppings in her Birkin, she had no choice but to fully sterilize every bag that entered the building. Artistic Director already approved.

Deliciously PHONY artifacts from THE Daily’s fashion archive

CHIC Expat What’s your story?

My mother is from Guyana, and my father is English. I was born in South America, and when I was 12, we moved to the English countryside. I went to Harrow and then went to the Royal College of Art, where I did my MA in menswear. I was offered a job for Falke, which took me to Germany, and I kept moving!

What drew you to menswear?

Well, I’ve always been a very good illustrator—I didn’t really know what I was drawing, even though people complimented my sketches—and I knew the only way I could stop cheating myself was to try menswear. You can’t just create beautiful images—you have to be precise and know about structure. So I learned about pattern cutting, fabrics, and textures, all of which really helped me when I went back to womenswear.

As a child, did you want to design?

No! I wanted to be a cowboy, a history teacher, or a train driver. But I always liked making things. We are so privileged to be part of this industry. It’s hard work, but it never feels like a job. But I’m still planning to get myself to Texas to get on a horse.

Your pal Peter Copping is also a recent New York transplant.

We were at college together. We’ve been in lots of places at the same time. I went to Italy, he went to Italy.

He went to Paris, I went to Paris. I moved back to London, he was there.

Now we’re in New York, but I’ve only seen him a few times! He’s a great friend. I love him.

You spent some time at Iceberg.

It was a funny experience because I was in the middle of nowhere in San Giovanni in Marignano, Italy. It was near the sea and I had a moped, He’s worked alongside Marc, Alber, and Tomas which I loved. Lots of very important Maier, but last year, Michael Herz landed his dream designers were working there as consultants, like Anna Sui, Tomas gig as artistic director of DVF. BY EDDIE ROCHE Maier, and Marc Jacobs. After that, PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO I thought, “What on earth am I doing?” so I moved to Paris for 10 years and spent my last three years working with Alber Elbaz and Andreas to New York and walk past her office, and wonder if she was there. I thought she Melbostad, who is now at Diesel Black Gold. didn’t really mean it when she said I should be in touch. Why would she want to What did you learn from them? speak to me? I was just happy that I met her.

Marc was really inspiring and energetic. He was good fun. It was amazing to watch How many years passed before you met again?

Tomas in fittings, because he would get a pair of scissors and really create a garMore than five. I was leaving my job and wanted to take some time out to travel. ment. Alber created complete fantasy. He was very insistent when he wanted My agent called and said Diane was in town, and that I should see her. Weirdly, something a certain way.

I had just finished reading her biography. So we got together, and she said, “I’m How did you and Diane von Furstenberg first connect? not sure why I’m meeting you—I don’t have a job!” I said, “I’m not sure why I’m She was judging Text Print in London, and I was also going to be one of the judges. meeting you, either—I’m not looking for a job.” A few days later, she called and said I was sitting on a park bench, and this vision was walking toward me…it was Diane! she’d been thinking, and she’d like for me to come visit her. So I spent a weekend at I recognized her, but I would never invade somebody’s space. I’m very English in her home in Connecticut. that way. But for some reason, I decided to say, “You’re Diane von Furstenberg, What went through your mind when you got that invite? aren’t you?” As if she didn’t know. We chatted and she gave me her business card.

Nothing. I don’t get fazed by many things. I was nervous in the car, but only about She said if I was ever in New York, she wanted to continue our conversation. whether or not I’d be able to smoke at her house. I made the car stop for one last Did you rattle off your résumé? cigarette before we arrived.

We just chitchatted. I told her she was lovely and inspiring. It wasn’t more than a Were you allowed to light up? minute, but I carried that business card with me for a long time. I used to come Of course! I walked in and it was like being at my mom’s. I felt immediately com-

haven’t you met

michael?

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“

When I met Diane, everybody I know best said they couldn’t have thought of a better match.”

fortable, and it was much later on that I registered all the beautiful works of art hanging on the walls. It felt like a place where you could put your feet up on the sofa and eat chicken with your fingers. It was lovely. I feel very privileged that I get to go there when I want. She goes up most weekends when she’s around. She loves going on beautiful walks. It’s really normal. I had always wanted to live in New York, but I used to say that I don’t think I’ll be able to, because I didn’t think I’d ever get a job. When I met Diane, everybody I know best said they couldn’t have thought of a better match.

You curated her wrap dress exhibition in Los Angeles before you assumed the artistic director role.

After that first weekend in Connecticut, she said she needed someone to curate the fashion for the exhibition. I was originally going to work out of London, but after my first week, I realized I needed to be here in New York, so I went back and forth. It was exhausting but exhilarating. When I arrived in L.A. and saw how huge the space was, and learned that she was going to do a book about it, I thought, “Really? How did this happen?” I’ve always known about Diane—the woman, the personality, Studio 54—but I didn’t know as much about the clothes until I heard

the stories.

What did you learn from her story?

She arrived in New York at a time when women in Europe were still very much housewives. She was earning a salary and having a family, and she came up with a dress and fabric that became part of the newfound freedom that American women were experiencing.

How did you transition into the full-time gig?

We get on really well and have a good, healthy respect for each other, so it just worked. She had a lot going on with her TV show and book, so she needed a right hand to work alongside her. She asked me if I liked being in New York and working with her, and I said, “Of course!”

She invited me to take a stroll on the Highline, and, walking arm-in-arm, she asked if I’d like to move here.

Are you liking life in New York?

I love it. I’ve always felt at home here. I like being a foreigner—you can be anything you want to be.

Where are you making friends?

At Equinox! I was too embarrassed to go to the gym without a trainer because everyone was going to laugh at me—I had no idea what I was doing. My trainer, George, has become a great friend. I also had an English intern who ended up living here, and I’ve met new people, too.

Were you pleased with your first collection for DVF? I got a lot of very positive feedback. Whenever I work on something, I do everything I can to make it the best it can be. There’s always something you can do better, but you know when something is right and you know when it’s wrong.

Are you and Diane always on the same page?

Not always—Diane makes me think a lot about certain things and I make her think about certain things. The other day, she said something, and I was a bit annoyed, but afterward, I knew why—it was because she was right. It’s good to not always be on the same page, but we’re on the same plane. I don’t feel like I work for her; I work with her. It’s a conversation. She’s so open to new ideas and suggestions.

Do you eventually want your own line?

Not at all. I’ve never wanted that. Doing your own line brings complications. But one day, I’d like to write a book!

DVF Spring 2015

fi r s t vi e w

INDEPENDENT spirit

GARDENof EDUN A veteran of The Row and Alexander Wang, Danielle Sherman landed at Edun in 2013, and her take on the brand has earned raves from cognoscenti while winning the hearts of the diehard shopper. Naturally, she deserved a Daily grilling!

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE SELBY

What was your earliest fashion memory?

As a child, I watched Fashion File from morning until night. I learned to sew when I was young—my mom would take me to Jo-Ann Fabrics with all the older ladies. I was by far decades younger than everyone there but went through the McCall’s fashion patterns, and I learned to sew on a commercial machine.

Did you go to school for fashion?

No—art history. I went to the Gallatin School of Individualized Study at NYU. I did my thesis on design for the literary and visual arts. I took the work of literary artists like Emily Brontë and compared it to that of visual artists like Picasso or whomever. I also took classes at FIT, and when I was in high school I took classes at Otis, which was Parsons' West Coast affiliate at the time. I also took classes at UCLA Extension for fashion illustration. So I’ve always been taking classes on the side and teaching myself, but I haven’t had any formal training.

What was your first gig in the fashion world?

I started a fashion company when I was 16. I had worked on a film earlier in the year and I used the money I earned to start my own company. Essentially, I catered to wardrobe stylists, working with local craftspeople to make leather accessories. They were very avantgarde and dramatic—feathers, big chokers, and studs. I was much more adventurous then.

How did you end up designing for The Row? I came onboard there pretty much right after I graduated in 2005. We launched the brand in 2007, but we started quite early, because we took a lot of time to develop everything.

You knew Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen growing up, correct?

I’ve known them since they were six months Edun Spring 2015 old, because my mom was their studio teacher and my aunt was their baby wrangler. My aunt was actually employed by Full House— her job was to get babies to respond on camera. After The Row, I joined Alexander Wang and started working with him on the show and the ready-to-wear collection. I was his head designer on his first few collections. That position eventually evolved into the design director role for T by Alexander Wang, and now I’m here.

How did Alexander Wang find you?

He had interned for a mutual friend, Aya Kanai, when he was at Teen Vogue. She connected us, and we hit it off.

What’s it like working for LVMH? It’s interesting, because yes, we are a part of a bigger family, but Edun is still run in a very personal way.

They really give their creative directors a lot of freedom. The direction and advice they give us is incredible. I’ve never experienced this kind of FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

mentorship before. But everyone here really wears 20 hats, and it’s run like a small business in every sense.

What initially attracted you to Edun?

Ali [Hewson] and Bono’s excitement and passion. I was also inspired by exploring a whole new continent. I had never traveled to Africa, but I had always wanted to.

How was your first experience in Africa?

We went to Tanzania and started off in Zanzibar, which was more about inspiration, architecture, and the environment. Then we went to a lot of the factories in Kenya and Madagascar, and we also visited Kibera, one of the largest slums in the world to meet artisans who are doing really unique work with very limited means. We visited the factories, and we also visited St. Ann’s orphanage in Kenya. We don’t go and have just one experience—we have 20.

Do you work with the same factories, or are you trying to develop new ones?

Both. We’re always exploring and sourcing, but what makes this brand unique and consistent is the fact that we’re not working with many factories.

We’re purposefully building the relationships we already have. That’s why there is consistency in our quality—we aren’t shopping around. But as Edun expands and as we look into certain novelty treatments, we are always exploring someone who may specialize in embroidery or pleating.

How has working with African artists made an impact on their lives?

We worked with one jeweler who carves bone and makes really beautiful buttons, and he’s been able to send his daughter to school in part because of the work he does for the label. We really feel like we know the people making our clothes, and that’s unique to Edun—we're not a massive factory.

You’ve been earning great reviews.

We all live and create in our own bubble, but I am very lucky right now that the fashion industry is looking at Edun as a brand that’s making a comeback. The fact that I’m a part of that new movement has been incredible.

How would you describe your aesthetic?

Minimal, classic, easy, unfussy, straightforward, and functional. I tend to wear just a button-down shirt and a sweater.

What are your guilty pleasures?

I don’t feel guilty about anything, to be honest.

How did you meet your fiancé, Todd Selby?

At MOCA in L.A. They used to throw parties in the summer that would last until 2 a.m. I met him there through a mutual friend and then we went to a diner at 3 a.m. and ate waffles!

What’s your personal eden?

Simple pleasures like cooking at home, being with my nieces, going on a hike in L.A., and just being outside. My eden, thankfully, is easily accessible.

“

We really feel like we know the people making our clothes, and that’s unique to Edun—we’re not a massive factory.”

g etty i ma g es ( 3 )

DESIGN Darling

Suddenly

Sofia

Giulietta’s Sofia Sizzi got her start at Gucci during the Tom Ford era before making her way stateside to work for American icons such as Donna Karan and Calvin Klein Collection. When she ventured out on her own for Fall 2011, retailers like Barneys immediately took note. Now thanks to a new partnership with Italian factory Cieffe Srl and a new line of shoes, Giulietta is about to really take off.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Giulietta Pre-Fall 2015

When did you get into fashion?

When I was 4 years old. My mother was a little shocked, because I literally obsessed over things. She was like, “I don’t know where you get this from, but I hope it goes away!” If I found a pair of shoes I loved, I would buy them even if they were too small. My first fashion crush was Yves Saint Laurent.

Did you study design?

I went to school for shoe design, and the school organized a design contest with Gucci. I ended up winning the first prize for shoes, so I got a piece of Gucci luggage and an internship in product development. This was when Tom Ford was at Gucci; there were no interns allowed in the design department. After six months, I was hired.

Chic! Did you ever come into contact with Tom Ford?

I don’t know if he ever acknowledged my existence! I was 21 years old. I would be in meetings with him in London, and I was petrified and charmed at the same time.

He is so handsome, and he has an amazing personality.

How did you make the move to NYC? A friend knew someone who was looking for an assistant designer. I ended up at Donna Karan, working under the creative director and a senior designer. At some point, they put me onto DKNY, because my boss left to get married.

How did you land at Calvin Klein?

I knew Francisco Costa from the Gucci days—he was designing womenswear. The position at the time was in handbags. Eventually, I was also doing men’s and women’s shoes and accessories. But in my mind, I’ve always loved the idea of a full collection rather than individual pieces. I have a very classic vision about it with a muse, the spirit, the mood, and what the woman is doing and where she is going.

Why did you leave?

I was burned out. It wasn’t anybody’s fault. It just happens at times in your life, especially if you work in fashion. I told my husband [restaurateur Iacopo Falai], “Honey, I’m going to be your director of operations at the restaurant!” He was like, “Oh, boy…” He was really scared! I was all corporate and fashion about it, and they were like, “Who is this woman? We have to prepare lunch now.” But no, food and restaurants aren’t for me. Doing the interiors is fun, but as for the food…no. So I freelanced for Michael Kors, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu, and Donna Karan again.

When did you launch the collection?

In 2011. I didn’t have specific timing—I was just making and remaking pieces until I got them exactly how I wanted them. I wanted a very specific silhouette. I’m very inspired by the ’60s—specifically, 1968 and 1969.

At what point did you feel it was gaining momentum?

Right from the start, the curiosity was there. The press is really open to new

designers. The first interview I ever did was with The New York Times. Then I met with Mark [Lee] and Daniella [Vitale] from Barneys, who immediately picked up the first season. Then Net-A-Porter did a story on me and bought the collection.

What challenges did you face?

I started with absolutely no funds. All I had was what I was making from my freelance jobs; that was my first reality check. After those retailers picked me up, I was faced with how much it was going to actually cost me to produce this collection. That phase finally ended after three years of killing myself.

How were you able to transition into a new phase?

We just signed a new partnership with Cieffe [Srl]. I’m so happy. There are only so many ways you can bring your collection to the next level. They manufacture for some of the best brands in the industry. They had been producing my collection for a year and a half and then they said, “We are considering investing into your collection. We can really bring it to the next level.” They also took over distribution, which was always a nightmare for me.

What else have you launched?

Shoes! It’s a big milestone, because shoes are really my thing.

How would you describe your aesthetic?

The Giulietta aesthetic is feminine, a little nostalgic, but also modern.

The inspiration usually comes from Europe, my travels, or the old movies I’ve seen.

What is your inspiration this season?

It’s from a movie I love, Bernardo Bertolucci’s The Conformist. It’s one of my favorite movies ever, and it gave me so many elements to work with.

What new elements have you added under Cieffe?

There is more of a technological exploration this season. We started using more high-tech sport elements and fabrics, and we’re going to continue it this season. But this season I think it’s going to be really strong because it will be mixed with more glamorous, romantic elements.

Who are your muses?

Women between 65 and 80 years old! Monica Vitti is probably my No. 1, but also Romy Schneider, Charlotte Rampling, and Sophia Loren.

Dreams for the future?

I would like Giulietta to exist, and in order for it to exist, it has to be relevant. And in order for it to be relevant, there are steps that a company has to go through. The first would be to grow the sales and then focus on marketing. I’d love to have ad campaigns. That’s the time to really identify the brand’s image. And of course, I’d love to have a store.

What are your passions outside of work?

Music, art, architecture, and interiors. If I wasn’t doing fashion, I would be doing interiors.

COURTESY

FIRST Act

HOUSE OF THE

RISING SUN

Designer Brandon Sun, beloved for the luxurious furs he designs for Oscar de la Renta as well as his own label, is staging his biggest and boldest runway show yet. Moody elegance and decadent eveningwear from this chipper and joyful designer? Mais oui!

BY PETER DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO You started as an accessories designer, and now you’re mounting a huge runway show.

In 2011, I did a capsule collection to show off Blackglama’s capabilities with their fur. Then Janet Jackson came onboard as the spokesperson. After the Blackglama collaboration, I started my own accessories collection and it did really well and got picked up by Louis Boston, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks. It took off and all of a sudden, I was in business. I did a little show and that continued to propel it. Then I started doing coats and built, and now I have a fur collection and a ready-to-wear collection with Neiman Marcus. Ken Downing once sat me down and said, “Brandon, you can’t build a fur brand. You have to build a brand that has fur.” So I took that advice to heart. You have to sell a dream. I do my fur collection first, because that’s where I make most of my money. It has to be forward-thinking but not too avant-garde. This season, I did about 25 to 30 fur pieces, which is my biggest so far.

I have both couture and commercial pieces. Then I start developing the dresses.

You work with leather, too.

The way I work leather is not very straightforward. I’ll take a whole skin that has a special treatment and then deconstruct and reconstruct it into something completely different—almost like embroidery, but not exactly. The way I manipulate fur and leather is very similar.

Your inspiration boards are so arty—lots of black.

Those are pieces by Pierre Soulages, who is pretty much the last living abstract expressionist. He created these super monstrously sized artworks that are explorations of black and texture. They are about taking transparency and matte black and shiny black and textures of black and creating artwork based on that. Black is all colors; it is not a noncolor. I love black.

And you tacked up that Interview cover of Keira Knightley. Is she your girl?

Keira is beautiful. I love her. She exudes youthfulness and sensuality, but she is definitely cool. This particular image of her I like because she is very sleek and almost looks like she came out of an Edgar Allan Poe story—a little bit greasy.

That’s where I am going with the hair and makeup and the overall vibe of the girls. The collection is very dark this time.

It’s a little bit melancholic and jarring.

You always seem so happy. I would never describe you as melancholic.

I am in such a good mood this year. This is my favorite collection that I’ve ever done. The last few seasons I spent a lot of time discovering—not just what my voice was going to be but who wanted my pieces. My original idea was to design for cool, slouchy downtown girls, but then I realized that they didn’t really have the budget to buy what I wanted to sell. It’s been this journey to discover my archetypical woman and what she wanted and how to design for her. I think this season is the fruit of all that.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

You always have a lot of black, but it never seems depressing. You also wear a lot of black yourself.

It’s easier to buy a black wardrobe and mix and match. Once I have a pop of color, it’s all of a sudden limiting. You would open my front door and my wardrobe would be on the floor.

Most of it is black and gray and white. I’m pretty monotone.

You still work with Oscar de la Renta.

I consult now mostly on furs with Oscar de la Renta and technical stuff and give some ideas.

The new creative director Peter [Copping] is great and he has a lot of ideas. I interpret what he wants.

What was it like working with Mr. de la Renta?

When Oscar was there, you could learn so much by just being in the room with him and understanding how he sees his customer. I learned an analytical approach to design. Of course he had a grandiose creative vision as well, but the reason his business is so big is because it is relatable to a real person. I consult for about five other brands, too.

You live in the Financial District, which is becoming very chic, now that Condé Nast is nearby.

I’m thinking about moving. I lived first in the Armani Casa building, which was magnificent and had this grand cemetery-esque feeling. But the black floors were difficult to maintain and became dusty overnight. And there aren’t enough bars down there.

Once things calm down, I want a change of pace. I want more culture around me—better restaurants and cute, young people.

I’m thinking about moving out to Brooklyn.

But you’ll be far away from Koreatown and the karaoke bars you love.

I live for karaoke. And I’m not just a good singer; I’m a bomb singer. I sing a lot of Michael Bublé and recently I’ve been singing a lot of John Legend. When I am not slammed with work, we go twice a week. You can only go so much before you lose your mind. And you can only go with people who sing well.

Do you go back to China?

My parents were born in Taiwan, and my grandparents left China during the revolution. I go to China for work-related things, but I don’t really like it. I do go to Taiwan a lot to visit my friends. I love it there, because the food is so good.

I was born in downtown New York and then my dad moved to New Jersey to open his Chinese restaurant business.

They still live there. My dad doesn’t do restaurants anymore. Now he just chills.

Can you cook Chinese food?

I love to cook. It’s like putting together a fashion collection; you just find different ingredients and mix and match them until they make sense. I create a bit of a story. When I have dinner parties, I make an opulent, fun dinner. And I need everyone’s help at some point, because I also have a lot of wine. a l l p h o t o s co u r t e s y

#BIZ WITH

STYLE “Berkeley College is a perfect fit. I am so happy here. My professors have really sparked my creativity and provided me with a deep understanding of current fashion and business trends. As a blogger focusing on the Fashion Industry, I also learned how social media can be used as a powerful marketing and communication tool. I know I am prepared for my career because of what I am learning here at Berkeley.�

Raquel Rivera Berkeley College Fashion Blogger

Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/Fashion or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu

Find us @BerkeleyCollege and #BizWithStyle

Berkeley College reserves the right to add, discontinue, or modify its programs and policies at any time.

Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures.

P4597.8.2014

CRAZY Confessions

CHICSTERS

BEHAVING BADLY! You’re perfectly positioned atop the fashion heap these days, but you didn’t get there by following the rules all the time. That’s why we love you!

“

In 10th grade, I was suspended from boarding school for a week for drinking on campus.

I think it was vodka and orange Crush— very sophisticated!

I was traumatized at the time, but I went on to become editor of our high school paper, so all was forgiven.”

Our inspiration: This letter received

by Horacio Silva’s parents during the Departures editor’s high school years.

“When I was 3, the day before my 4th birthday party, I took to my long waist-length blonde hair with mum’s sewing scissors. The punishment was for the next 12 months I sported a boys’ bowl cut. The worst photo from that time ended up in our local newspaper, which came to my preschool in 1984 and asked to ‘interview the little boy with the blonde bowl cut.’ ” —Samantha Wills, jewelry designer

—Anne Fulenwider, Marie Claire

“I was expelled from kindergarten! Didn’t even know that was possible. And then in fifth grade, me and two other friends put soap in the principal’s office aquarium.

The oxygen pump made so many bubbles that her floor became a big bathtub.

Poor fish!”

—Melissa Rubini, InStyle

“I grew up in Washington, D.C., during the 1980s, which meant going to see a ton of great hard-core bands—Fugazi! Scream! Bad Brains! Rites of Spring!—but it also meant being straight edge for the majority of my high school years. So I didn't misbehave nearly enough. I should’ve drunk far more cheap beer than I did.”

—Adam Rapoport, Bon Appétit

“

I used the money my parents gave me for weekend piano lessons in eighth grade to shop at Patricia Field. I’ll never forget Connie Girl fitting me for my first wig in 1990.”

—Sidney Prawatyotin, vice president of fashion, Krupp Group

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“When I was a senior in high school, living in London, my parents went to Brussels for the weekend and left me in charge of the house and my two younger brothers. Recipe for disaster! Instead of a quiet weekend, we threw a small gettogether that soon grew to become a 200-plus person wild party of debauchery. The party lasted six hours. The cleanup took a full two days to hide all signs of a house ripped apart then scrubbed and put back together. Our parents never knew… until probably now if they are reading this! We did an excellent cleanup job.”

—Nancy Berger Cardone, Marie Claire

“When I was a senior in high school, our campus moved locations and our new building was very stale; all the old traditions from the old campus seemed to have been lost.

So my friends and I decided on Halloween that we would bring back the tradition of the senior class ‘decorating’ campus (and by decorating I mean toilet papering every tree available and using shaving cream to write ‘cute’ notes). Although sanctioned by our parents, the school administration was less than amused by our antics. It was a good old-fashioned interrogation until one of us broke her silence, followed by the next and the next. Clearly, we were not seasoned criminals. So we all got in-school suspension, which actually ended up being kind of nice and more like a private studying room.”

—Natalie Holst, designer, Holst & Lee

“

I called my dance club teacher a b*tch during my senior year of high school. That was beyond unacceptable at my very proper all-girls private school. I got sent straight to the headmistresses’ office.

I mean, I had the flu and missed practice and therefore she didn’t want me to perform in the final recital.

So unfair!”—Dani Stahl, Nylon

“My family immigrated to the U.S. from Russia when I was 12. My mom spoke broken English and after registering me at Christopher Columbus High School in the Bronx I told her that in American customs, parents weren’t allowed to visit schools and that parent-teacher conferences did not exist. One day I got into a fight with my classmate and when I got home later that day there was a voice mail from the dean asking my mom to come in the next day—I was being suspended.

I instantly deleted the voice mail and dragged my older cousin with me to school the next day. When the dean asked where my mom was, I told her that my mom abandoned me a year ago and that I’d been living with my cousin ever since. For some crazy reason the dean believed us and from that point on only reached out to my cousin. Viva America!”

—Sergio Kletnoy, Cosmopolitan

“

I was such a dork in elementary school. The worst thing I did was be the lookout for my friend who stole a pack of watermelon gum at the local grocery store.”

—Peter Som

+÷ 3

“I had to go to summer school for math when I was 15. My entire family went to the beach and left me in Toronto. Normally, I’d take the bus, but there was a burgundy Volare parked in our driveway. I drove that sucker all over Toronto for the entire summer without a license.

I cannot believe I never got caught. This is considered very bad behavior for a Canadian.”

—Donald Robertson

“I went to the loo during story time at school. I must have been around 4 years old. I found some red powder paint under the sink and decided it would be fun to see how the red paint looked over the blue tiles of the sink area in the bathroom. I had been in there so long ‘crafting away’ that my friend Hayley Summers was sent to look for me. When she saw what I had done, rather than being horrified, she joined me in finishing the job. Needless to say I didn’t have much of a life after school for the following weeks, but it did spark an enduring love affair with art and painting.”

—Misha Nonoo

“At Palm Beach Day School, a pink slip was sent in the mail to my parents if I was naughty, which was quite often. So I would race home after school, check the mail to see if there was anything from school, then hold the envelope up to the light.

If there was pink inside, I would immediately bury it in the sand at the beach!”

—Marjorie Gubelmann

“At boarding school, my roommates and I would go AWOL occasionally to visit the cool boys’ dorm.

We would sneak out at night wearing dark clothes and sprint through the golf course to get there, avoiding lights and security guards. It was worth the risk!”

—Tinsley Mortimer

“When I was in high school, it was a tradition to paint the year you graduated on the road. I decided to take it a step further: I painted a 50-x-50-foot ‘ABSOLUTE 93’ in the main intersection in front of my school. I thought it was pretty badass until I was pulled over by the cops and my dad was called at four in the morning. He was most upset I had used his good brushes!”

—Michael Carl, Vanity Fair

“I had always been basically well-behaved, but in eighth grade, I discovered that being a troublemaker got me lots of attention from the cute, cool boys. Naturally, that made me go overboard. I had planned to pull the fire alarm for awhile as kind of the cherry on the cake of a year of bad behavior. Being a blabbermouth, I mentioned it to a few people and word sort of spread about the plan, so I felt like I had to do it.

When it happened, I was called to the principal’s office. He was sexy in a silver foxy Napoleon kind of way, but he didn’t really put up with any s**t. They had called my dad, which was mortifying because he was going through a phase in which he wore cowboy boots and Western looks, even though we lived in suburban Chicago. I said I had not pulled the fire alarm, and my dad said that even though I was a troublemaker, I was not a liar. That made me feel a little pang of embarrassment and shame for lying, so I admitted I did it. So they said, ‘You’re done here!’ and had me go to my locker and get my textbooks and return them to each teacher and tell them I was suspended for the rest of the year.”

—Mickey Boardman, Paper

“

I got away with everything.

I'm not telling you about all the bad stuff I did!”

—Kate Young

BFANYC.COM (14); PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (3); SHUTTERSTOCK

INDECENT Exposure

DAILY DISCUSSION! What’s UP WITH RICK OWENS? He’s one of the most innovative designers of his era, who first rocked the fashion scene in the early aughts with grunge-chic leather jackets that caused even Anna to swoon.

But in the past few years, the unrepentant provocateur stirred up controversy with his Spring ’14 women’s collection (titled “Vicious,” it was modeled by step dancers in “grit face”) and now, by sending male models onto the runway, baring their privates to a crowd of shocked bystanders.

It’s one thing to trend on Twitter (#dickowens), but has the designer gone too far? We report, you decide…

EXHIBIT A: THE PEEN PARADE

“It’s a little bit of juvenile transgression. Boys with their dicks out is such a simple, primal, childish gesture.”

—Rick Owens to Style.com

THE

CRITICAL REACTION “Unclear if this was a dick slip or a purposeful dick pic. NSFW.”—GQ.COM “One of his best menswear shows in recent history.”

“By deliberately exposing a few pendant bits of flesh, Mr. Owens seemed to be suggesting how tenuous and vulnerable are the basis for what we think of as masculinity.”

—Tim Blanks, Style.com

—Guy Trebay, The New York Times

“Then a kind of religious tribal element seeped in with shiftlike robes, some dangling with fluttering materials reminiscent of wind chimes. Some of them had an arched peephole opening revealing the model’s manhood. This actually heightened the religiosity aspect. It wasn’t done in bad taste, but it was mysterious, like sending out bold fertility gods.”—William Van Meter, The Cut

“Please stop.

Please stop.

Please stop.

Please stop.

Please stop.

Please stop.”

—Jason Parham, Gawker

“It was the flashing that the show will be remembered for, even though it came at a time when in art or movies or onstage genital display has largely lost the power to shock.”—Guy Trebay, the New York Times

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“

RICK’S INNER CIRCLE

So it’s true I’m bisexual. It’s supposed to be the other way around, isn’t it? People are against bisexuality. It’s either s**t or get off the pot. It would be great if things were that black and white, but life is all about ambiguities, and sometimes you have to make up the rules as you go along. It would have been easy for me to be completely gay. There was nothing holding me back. In fact, I started out assuming I would be a gay guy who didn’t really have relationships, but who would have sex anytime.”

THE WIFE Owens first met Michele Lamy during her salad days in Hollywood. He was dating a man at the time; she was the restaurateur behind Les Deux Cafés and also a designer with a line called Lamy. Now running the business together, Owens described the process as “asking a gypsy to organize a war with a fascist.”

“I live with a mean French lady, and when she hears my French she can really give me a look of disdain.”—to WSJ. magazine

Fun facts!

—to hint magazine

• As a child, she attended a boarding school in the French Alps.

• She studied to be a criminal lawyer and took on sex cases at the age of 21. She later turned to striptease and would do shows at little fairs in Paris alongside transvestites.

• Her signature lipstick is really a tattoo.

• The tattoos on her fingers are inspired by Berber artwork.

• A new-age dentist in L.A. bedazzled her teeth in gold and diamonds.

• One of her idols is Snoop Dogg.

THE STEPDAUGHTER Scarlett Rouge is Michele Lamy’s daughter with artist Richard Newton, whose work explores bondage and sadomasochism. In a video for StyleLikeU, Rouge admitted to watching her father’s erotic films as a 5-year-old.

THE PROTÉGÉ Gareth Pugh first met Owens when he was working with fur at Michele Lamy’s studio. Longtime friends, Owens and Lamy bought a 49 percent stake in Pugh’s business.

WHOA, NICE BED!

DUBIOUS ART ALERT!

According to WSJ., Owens and Lamy sleep together in a behemoth made of feltcovered plywood, and an alabaster version is even for sale. (It’ll cost you $180,000, and weighing two tons, will require you to get your floor reinforced, but hey!)

Guests to Owens' home are greeted by a larger-than-life wax doppelganger of the designer that sprays a stream of water from his nether regions across the room and into a nearby recepticle. It's OK to avert your eyes!

THE

QUOTABLE OWENS! On his early years in California “…I was a part of the wicked Hollywood Boulevard hustler bar world. I hung around people like Goddess Bunny, a dwarf friend of mine, and Mr. Beanbag in super sleazy, crystal, tranny hustler bars just off Hollywood Boulevard, a couple of blocks from my studio.

It fit into my aesthetic of broken idealism. That was my milieu, they were my friends.

I call them my ‘baroque pearls.’ ”

Hannelore Knuts

THE MUSES! Longtime faves include Kirsten Owen, An Oost, Nadège du Bospertus, and Hannelore Knuts.

THE ARCHITECT! Anna Tumaini has designed all of Owens’ stores. Each store features life-size wax replicas of Owens, which were created in London by Madame Tussauds. The statue at the Tokyo flagship depicts Owens with a Godzilla-inspired tail.

—to Hint magazine

On fitness “I work out almost every day for about an hour, but it’s slow. I’ll listen to loud music like Katie Got Bandz and Black Asteroid and, you know, look at myself in the mirror.”

—to The Daily Spring 2014

“The World of Rick Owens” at Selfridges

On his work

“We do some pretty basic things that flatter a lot of women. I think that’s really cool. I’m just a wannabe Calvin Klein or Giorgio Armani.”—to Hint magazine C O U R TESY

b fa n yc . c o m ( 6 ) ; f i r s t v i e w ( 5 ) ; g e t t y images (5); all others courtesy

LADIES First

CASTING CALL Senior Citizen Edition!

It’s about time those teenage models were displaced from top campaigns by more seasoned dames, non? Giorgio, Karl—just pay us in clothes.

Our Inspiration

Joan Didion for Céline

Joni Mitchell for Saint Laurent

Brigitte Bardot for Stella McCartney

Stella, chérie, it’s time to call on your compatriot in the fight for animal rights. Might we suggest a shoot in the pet cemetery at La Madrague?

Diana Vreeland for Chanel

Fran Lebowitz for Jil Sander

For a brand so iconic, nothing but the ne plus ultra arbiter of style will do. So what if we have to resurrect her?

Rodolfo Paglialunga’s Spring collection was a masterful take on the androgynous uniform. Fran’s been rocking the look for decades!

Madame Claude for Givenchy

by Riccardo Tisci

Who better than an A-list dominatrix to show off your sexiness? Bonus: She brings enough of la classe professionnelle to counteract those Kardashians.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Queen Elizabeth for Armani

Il re della moda italiana deserves a royal endorsement. The fact that she’s rarely seen hatless is merely a happy coincidence. g e t t y i m a g e s ( 8 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m ; a l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y