The Daily Front Row

FEBRUARY 16, 2016

WILD THINGS! HOOD

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THE DAILY Wonders…

What’s been the highlight of your week so far?

PLAY BALL! WITH THE SOCIETY’S IRINA DJURANOVIC

What’s your hobby?

I used to play volleyball for seven years.

In my free time, I look up things about the fashion world.

Where are you living?

In the models’ apartment. I know a lot of the girls, and it’s a lot of fun. It’s hard to fall asleep.

What’s in the fridge?

I have no idea!

RANDOM RUN-IN! WITH SANDRA BERNHARD

Are you friends with Jenna Lyons?

I am! I don’t know how we met, but we’ve become pals. I admire her work and her fortitude and commitment.

When’s the last time you watched Unzipped?

It has been a long time! I’m still very good friends with Isaac Mizrahi. Of the things that were happening at the time, I didn’t think, This is going to be a biggie.

You used to do stand-up about Naomi Campbell.

Yes! About her song “Baby Woman”—it was a big hit in Japan. Naomi has been a part of my work for many years. She appreciates it.

Marc Jacobs was on your Sirius show recently.

Marc’s a vulnerable person. He’s hard on himself, like all creative people. It’s hard year after year to reinvent your line and stay true to your vision. It takes a toll. Did you see me in his new campaign?

HEARD

“I’M PLANNING A TRIP TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TO SEE NATURE. I’M TRYING TO MAKE IT A HABIT TO VISIT ONE PARK A YEAR.” —J.Crew’s FRANK MUYTJENS on his upcoming vacation plans

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

SCENE

Derek Lam was inspired by the works of Edward Calvert and Richard Avedon. “It’s about form, balance, and joy,” said Lam post-show at Skylight at Clarkson Square. Once again, he worked with James Scully on the casting, which included a groovy mix of new and established faces. “A lot of the credit should go to him for having more diversity on the runway,” said Lam, who sadly, is not on Facebook to take in Scully’s incendiary musings on the state of the industry. • Warm fuzzies abounded at J.Crew’s presentation at Spring Studios, so we took the opportunity to grill Adam Rapoport about meat and carbohydrates.

Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Editing Ashley Baker Eddie’s reportManaging Editor ing from the Tangie Silva Yeezy show.

Design Director Jill Serra Wilde Shooting the Fashion Editor epic Alexander Wang for our Paige Reddinger cover.

Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Designer Magdalena Long Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jean Borrie Contributing Copy Editors Joseph Manghise, Cynthia Puleo Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, RJ Hamilton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva Having Gus, our Daily pug, help out around the office.

J.CREW

FOODIE FIX!

WITH SOMSACK SIKHOUNMUONG

How are you feeling?

It’s like preparing the most amazing dinner. You spend months making sure everything is just right.

What’s your ideal dinner?

Spicy food. It’s the Thai in me!

Is this your dream job?

Being a kid growing up in Canada and sketching and sewing pillows every single day of my life…this is Mount Everest!

EXIT STRATEGIES!

Mark Tevis Publisher

Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Midwest Kathy Burke Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

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Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

Requests for reprints must b submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.

WITH ADAM RAPOPORT

What would you be doing if not editing?

My dream is to run a sandwich shop. It’s not my wife’s dream, because I’d probably make about $6 a day. There would be six sandwiches, Budweiser, and Coca-Cola.

Where would you want your shop to be?

In Manhattan, I’d have to charge $20 a sandwich, which is kind of annoying. I think I’d move to another small city. I’ve run the numbers.

What’s your favorite place to get a sandwich in New York City?

The Original Sandwich Shoppe on Greenwich Avenue. I’ll get a breaded chicken cutlet hero. Lettuce; if tomatoes are in season, I’ll do tomatoes; herbal mayo. Support your local guys. When sandwiches are made well, it’s an incredibly gratifying thing. There’s an art to them. It’s about texture and balance and obviously, flavor.

ON THE COVER:

Soo Joo Park in Alexander Wang Fall 2016.

Photographed by Firstview.

F I R S T V I E W ( 9 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 3 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 3 ) ; V I TA L A G I B A L O W ( 3 )

Derek Lam

Brandusa Niro

Editor in Chief, CEO

S:10.25”

S:13”

©2016 Maybelline LLC.

LOVEFEST!

TECHNICAL SUPPORT!

WITH LILY ALDRIDGE

What’s new?

I’m taking it day by day. We just launched the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue.

I’ve been busy.

Are you still living in Nashville?

Yes! I love to go to the Honky Tonk and have a fun night out. I can be invisible and dance the night away.

Where would you recommend we go out in Nashville?

Robert’s Western World.

Love that you are eating chocolate.

I know! It’s a bonbon.

It’s divine.

WITH TAYLOR HILL

PROUD MOM! Yolanda Foster smooched her daughter Gigi Hadid’s cover of The Daily on Tuesday.

SCENE

Was it a party or a presentation? DVF’s affair at her MePa HQ invited the fash-noscenti to mix and mingle with the mods.

The scene: an homage-ish to Studio 54. With all the waiters and photographers milling about, was it a touch chaotic? Oui, but in Diane’s world, it’s okay for life to get a little bit messy. • Spotted: Diane Kruger backstage at Prabal Gurung. • And! Michael Carl’s darling niece finally made her catwalk debut sporting Levi’s.

Are you into Snapchat?

I don’t really use it that much, but it’s fun when you’re backstage or hanging out with friends. I always Snapchat my miniature labradoodle.

How are you feeling?

It’s a love/hate relationship with everyone during this month. It’s so much work and nonstop, but at the end, you’re grateful you did all the hard work.

What are you obsessed with?

The Blacklist and Jessica Jones.

I watched the entire season in a day!

DOING IT ALL!

WITH JOURDAN DUNN

What’s new?

I just announced that I’m going to be collaborating with Marks & Spencer in the U.K. on a kids’ line, which I’m looking forward to. It launches in April and has taken two years to develop. I’m really excited. My son was my muse. I had him in mind, but it’s a unisex line.

Do people recognize you from the Maybelline campaigns?

Every time I’m in the U.S., the commercials are always on, and I get embarrassed, but then I’m like, “Hey, that’s me!’ It’s really cool.

WELL COIFFED! WITH TRESEMMÉ’S ORLANDO PITA

What’s the look?

It’s keeping each girl individual and highlighting her beauty with a nod to the ’70s. We have a little bit of a Shelley Duvall look or Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface. There’s also the Angela Davis Afro, but not perfectly round.

Karlie Kloss has more of a Diane von Furstenberg look. It’s always a nod to the ’70s, but keeping the girls individual.

What products did you use from TRESemmé?

We used the Beauty-Full Volume line, which is a mousse, spray, and cream. We’re also using its natural botanical oils line for the girls with more textured hair who need shine and moisture in their hair; the Sleek & Smooth for girls with more textured hair to get that glossy Farrah look.

BIANNUAL MOMENT! WITH FRAN LEBOWITZ

DVF

Do you know who these models are?

I assume they are all somehow related to Kim Kardashian.

Thoughts on the Kardashians?

It’s not my fault. It’s the same thing I think about the Republican candidates.

What is your fault?

Everything that’s my fault is personal. I’ve had nothing to do with cultural disaster.

Where do you live in New York City?

I would never say that on the record. I’m not America’s sweetheart. A lot of people don’t like me.

GAME NIGHT!

A STAR IS BORN!

How you know Prabal?

We were introduced playing the game Pictionary at Fashion’s Night Out. How’d that go?

We won, which was a good start for our relationship.

I can’t remember who we played with. Fashion people!

Your style is incredible. What’s your closet like?

It’s surprisingly organized. I don’t buy the big evening gowns—I stick to the staples.

What do you do when you need to make room for new clothes?

I clean out my closet all the time. Every six months.

I have three goddaughters who consistently raid my closet. They are 21, 14, and 10. I’m not attached to most things!

Love the Levi’s. How did you prep for your runway debut?

Hair and makeup and a lot of waiting.

What was going through your mind when you walked the runway?

My friend Kailani coming to my birthday.

Did you get any swag at the show?

Toys and food.

Which designers would you like to walk for next?

Whoever gives the most toys.

Any plans to design your own line?

I can’t talk about that now.

Reilly (center)

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

WITH MICHAEL CARL’S #FASHIONIECESTA, REILLY, WHO WALKED IN KIDS ROCK

G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 7 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 5 )

WITH DIANE KRUGER AT PRABAL GURUNG

SURVIVALIST of THE DAILY GARRETT NEFF, MODEL AND DESIGNER OF KATAMA

Giovanna Battaglia

Elsa Hosk

FRAME DINNER

Natasha Poly Erik Torstensson and Jens Grede

SCENE

We suppose everybody has to eat! IMG and Maybelline New York kicked off the show season with a din-din at the Beatrice Inn. • Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson celebrated Frame’s third anniversary with a model-stocked affair at—where else?— Indochine. • Rebecca Minkoff tried the direct-to-consumer thing. The day after the show, your DAILY visited her site to find only three clothing items from the show that were available for purchase—although there were, predictably, bags galore.

Been here since: February 2007 Why I made it: I say no a lot.

Best day yet: July 13, 2015—the day I launched my swimwear line, Katama!

Favorite female models: Liya Kebede, Karlie Kloss, and Natalia Vodianova. They’re positive role models and professionals with passion to improve the world.

Most admires: Ralph Lauren, Bruce Weber, and Steven Gan, for his work ethic and creative spirit.

Breakfast: Greek yogurt with berries and a skim cappuccino. I’m good to go until a late lunch!

Karlie Kloss

IMG & MAYBELLINE NEW YORK PARTY Anja Rubik Giampaolo Sgura

Nina Garcia and Lisa Carvalho Daniela Lopez

Stephen Galloway, Vinoodh Matadin, and Inez van Lamsweerde

Coco Rocha

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BLACK OUT

LRS STUDIO FALL 2016

WITH STEVEN KOLB AT REBECCA MINKOFF

Mossimo Supply Co. oxfords, $18

The ’80s reigned supreme (think the Blitz Kids) at the LRS Studio presentation with Maybelline New York guest makeup artist Erin Parsons drawing on dramatic liner on the top and bottom lids using a gel pencil, then pairing it with an equally noir lip. A thick coat of the Loaded Bolds Lip Color in Pitch Black topped with Lip Studio Shine Shot Glassy Topcoat (both launching this June!) made the pouts pop. Keep the rest of the face neutral to avoid being too over the top. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Eye Studio Lasting Drama Waterproof Gel Pencil in Sleek Onyx ($7.99), Maybelline.com.

PROMOTION

PRO TIP: For a deconstructed smoky eye, smudge the top winged liner into the creases and outward with a brush.

PROMOTION FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Thoughts on the moment for direct-toconsumer shows?

Obviously the CFDA and myself are deeply involved in this conversation. We started a study with the Boston Consulting Group on the relevancy of Fashion Week and how it should shift. We’ve interviewed a lot of people, and the overwhelming response is that everybody wants something new. What are the metrics behind it? Are these people really going to shop the show? The influence of technology is the core of the change. Where’s our Amazon Prime or Netflix moment? I feel like we’re just on the cusp of it.

Have you seen the results of the study?

Every week, I go through the latest version.

It will likely find that there are multiple ideas, and people will adapt accordingly.

B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 0 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 1 0 ) ; C O U R T E S Y

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STREET SMARTS

HOOD

BY AIR Shayne Oliver, may we take you to dinner? Just when we were starting to take all the great clothes we’ve seen this week a little too seriously, you’ve reminded us that creative play is at the heart of this business. Oliver must have spent a lot of time stuck in an airport, and what a good use of time that turned out to be, because his bag tag details and plastic-wrapped fur coats are the most clever tricks we’ve seen all week.

Why buy a predictable puffer jacket when you’d be so much happier in a sleeping bag?

Why wear a collared shirt unless it buttons all the way up to your eyebrows? Rei Kawakubo, we hope you’re streaming this show and smiling, because one of New York’s shiniest stars is looking better all the time.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

From Shayne Oliver’s highconcept stylings to a high-luxury knockout from Prabal Gurung, the New York shows are giving editors a lot of great ideas to think about.

BY ASHLEY BAKER & PAIGE REDDINGER

VICTORIA BECKHAM Who likes to feel constricted?

Come fall, plenty of us. The corset was Victoria Beckham’s focal point, and while waists were cinched, this bondage was the kind that women of all stripes (and plaids) will sign up for. This is thanks, in part, to a play on volumes. Fuller skirts in that ultra-now longer length dominated, and Beckham paired them with pointed-toe flats, the anti-ballerines. Menswear motifs were also successful, especially in tailored outerwear and crisp shirting.

And yes, there were a few of the body-con dresses that are fueling the VB empire, done this season in contrasting stripes and slippy silhouettes.

Extra points for an inspired color palette of rust, cadet blue, marigold, and loden.

H O O D/ L A M : G E T T Y I M AG ES ; I N S E T: F I R ST V I EW; B EC K H A M : F I R ST V I EW

DEREK LAM Let’s start with the outerwear, because if you’re not hankering for a new coat at this particular moment, well, you must be sitting out NYFW in favor of Belize. When it comes to this category, Derek Lam has few peers, and his fur-collared leather coat elicited audible little coos from the front row. His windowpane furs are also destined for lusts lists, although it’s the checked jacket/pant combo that really quickened this reporter’s pulse. And how is one to choose among so many great boots? Neutral-hued and functionally chunky, they’re going to work hard this time next year.

BEAUTY TREND ALERT!

DEWY SKIN

By Tom Pecheux for MAYBELLINE NEW YORK

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

RUNWAYReport

PRABAL GURUNG

FIRSTVIEW

Memo to all European luxury conglomerates looking for a new creative director: Prabal Gurung is up for the job.

Between the furs, embellishments, knits, appliqués, silks, and meticulously detailed patterns, this collection had something singular for everyone (provided their pockets are deep). We are going to go ahead and surmise that this was a very pricey collection to produce. Not like we’re complaining—of the 39 looks on display, 30 were sublime, and if some of you head on over to Moda Operandi to place your P.O. even before you see what’s happening in Milan and Paris, you can hardly be faulted. It was the right time for Gurung to come on so strong. Among his contemporaries, competition for retail dominance and shopper loyalty is fierce.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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BAJA EAST There is more than a touch of l’esprit Belge running through the hearts and minds of New York’s emerging designers.

Baja East has moved beyond the cashmere ponchos and unisexy knits to separates and eveningwear with panache. A hummingbird print dressed up pajama-esque suiting and a shoulder-baring dress, while a velvet floor-grazer lent a louche sensibility to a look that could otherwise be described as merely groovy.

That relaxed sensibility is here to stay, even in a graphic Lurex evening gown that is likely to end up at an Oscars after-party in a couple of weeks. (Smart starlets will work the full look, including the slides and sneakers created as part of a collaboration with Fila.) For those of us who aren’t destined for the limelight, sumptuous cableknits and easy, printed shorts will do just fine.

BEAUTY TREND ALERT!

CRIMSON LIPS

By Yadim for MAYBELLINE NEW YORK

As Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne infuse their edgy sensibilities into DKNY, Donna Karan’s female-friendly silhouettes seem to be working well for the designers’ own line. At Public School, wrap dresses, lean blazers, moto jackets, slouchy sweaters, and cascading layers were especially astute takes on what today’s women really want to wear. A long, pink trench over a red and black shirtdress felt totally now, while raw-edged denim, as seen on tunics and trousers, is a cool carryover of a trend that shows no signs of fading.

Outerwear was another show of strength: oversize parkas, ponchos, bombers, and car coats abounded.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GETTY IMAGES (6); FIRSTVIEW (5)

PUBLIC SCHOOL

ICONStatus

FIT alum Dennis Basso heads back to school this spring to pick up the prestigious Designer of the Year honor from his alma mater at its annual awards gala in May. We stopped by his Madison Avenue store, where we bumped into a browsing Ajak Deng, and we reminisced about his salad days and lessons learned. As for why he’s still hot? Those furs might have something to do with it.

BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

TOP OF THE CLASS FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Congrats on the honor. How are you feeling?

Thank you! FIT has always been very near and dear to me. I went there in 1972, which seems like yesterday, but it also seems so long ago. I’ve been very proud of that experience. People from around the world know the school. Three years ago, Dr. Joyce Brown honored me with a doctorate. I was flabbergasted. No matter how sophisticated and worldly we all are, when an institution that you went to school at, whether it’s a little local community school or Harvard or Princeton, wants to honor you…wow! You step back and think you’ve done something good. It’s been an amazing journey. Since I opened up my business in 1983, I feel like every day I’m beginning my career for the first time. It’s amazing to wake up and love what you’re doing. I’m a happy guy. I’m very happy to have the Designer of the Year award—I’m not quite ready for the Lifetime Achievement award yet.

How old will you need to be for that particular scenario?

Forty! [Laughs] How has Dr. Brown helped the school?

She is a highly educated, calm, refined woman. She’s gorgeous. She has set an example. She has brought funds from the state to the school to rebuild it. That is a major accomplishment. She runs a very tight ship. She gets the job done, and our friendship has grown and grown over the years. We knew each other professionally, but I’m happy to say today, we know each other on a personal level. She’s been a wonderful friend, and she looks beautiful wearing Dennis Basso!

What did you take from your time at FIT? At orientation, the dean said, “Look to your right and look to your left. In the career path that you’ve chosen, those people might not end up necessarily achieving what you’re achieving. If you want to achieve it, don’t ever, ever lose sight of your goal.”

When I think of myself as an adult who shows a

collection at Fashion Week and sells it in stores around the country, I’m a little amazed. I left FIT with the drive—they gave me the tools and molded me. They allowed me to show my creativity. What I really took away from that time is the idea to treat Dennis Basso like couture. Our collections are made in New York City, and I’m very proud of that. During that period, many people were manufacturing, right there on Seventh Avenue.

It’s almost unheard of today.

What was Chelsea like when you were in school?

That area was completely populated by the fur industry, and it bordered the flower market. It was always very safe and full of working people.

What were you like as a student?

I was the ringleader, always very active and involved. “Should we go to class or should we get on the F train and go to Bloomingdale’s?” I was a good enough student; I was part of a cramming group. I still have friends from my years there.

How do you keep it fresh after all these years?

You can’t sit on your laurels! You have to be a little worried. Are the RSVPs coming? Did the fabric arrive? Do we like that nail polish? How are we going to do the hair? Some of the greatest designers of our time, who are more senior than I am—Karl Lagerfeld and Valentino [Garavani] are two great examples—are adult adults who are worried about every last single thing.

That’s important; it keeps you focused. I have a wonderful creative team full of young, interesting people. I’ve always felt that it’s important to listen to those around you. Rome wasn’t built in a day.

FIT made you Dr. Dennis Basso. Have you had to save any lives?

When Dr. Brown sends me a text, she always calls me “Dr. D.” When she honored me at a dinner, she presented me with a stethoscope. I still have it, and every once in awhile I check everyone’s pulse to see if they’re all having a good time. ß

BASSO 411

WITH DR. JOYCE BROWN, PRESIDENT, FIT

RANDOM RUN-IN!

GETTY IMAGES (5)

WITH AJAK DENG

Fancy meeting you here!

I’m at the store to try on some things for Fashion Week so I can look fabulous.

How do you feel when you’re in a fur?

Like a billion dollars. I feel warm, comfortable, and great.

You’ve been walking with Dennis for a long time.

September 2009 was my first show with him.

That’s a lot of seasons. He’s super sweet.

Talk us through walking in his show.

Incredible. It’s relaxed and chill.

How would you describe Dennis?

Fabulous! Sweet! Ambitious! Very loving.

What else is new with you?

I’m single now!

Do we need to find you a boyfriend?

I don’t want one.

LOOKS TO LOVE Basso’s Spring ’16 collection mixed floral motifs with leather and appliqué.

Why did you choose to honor Dennis Basso as Designer of the Year?

Dennis is an American success story.

He was a kid with a dream, with talent, with taste, and a burning desire to channel all of that to a successful and meaningful life. Dennis is a lifestyle connoisseur. All his creations— whether it’s the coats, the dresses, or the gowns—are exquisite in their detail. The beautiful fabrics and finishes are notable, and they are all made right here in New York City. His craftsmanship and attention to detail have come to define quality and luxury.

And while his clients include First Lady Michelle Obama, A-list socialites, and celebrities, he also designs for his QVC followers with the same attention and care so that the Dennis Basso name is always consistent with elegance.

What has Dennis meant to the FIT community?

We are so proud he’s an FIT alumnus.

He is part of our FIT family, an inspiration to our students graduating, fashion design students who are so fortunate to have him serve as a design mentor and critic as they prepare their final collections. His story is their story. They have the same passion and creative vision as the young Dennis Basso. His success makes them believe in their own possibilities.

What’s your personal relationship like with him?

Dennis is warm. He has a razor-sharp wit, and he’s fun to be around. There is no pretense. He calls it like he sees it—and every day, he’s filled with the same megawatt energy and sunshine.

Over the years, we have developed a friendship and connection that feels authentic, and that’s probably what I like best. Dennis is sensitive, and he’s very aware of the feelings of others in all his interactions. He makes everybody feel special, and for him, at that moment, they probably are!

Share a favorite memory.

My favorite memory of Dennis happened in 2013, when we were able to tell him that we wanted to

present him with a State University of New York honorary degree. I knew it would be so meaningful for him as well as for us, and his reaction was perfect. He was honored and humbled and for once in his life, words failed him! His enthusiasm and excitement never diminished, and he shared the ceremony and everything that led up to it with his friends and family. It was all very special.

Who are the other honorees?

QVC and Laura and John Pomerantz. QVC is being honored for its pioneering efforts in the nontraditional retail environment.

Standing for quality, value, and convenience, QVC foreshadowed the technology explosion in retail sales, and continues to be a front-runner through worldwide expansion and helping launch many brands. The leaders of QVC use their status and success in the retail environment to reach back and provide opportunities for the next generation of leaders for the industry. They provide scholarships for talented students and believe in the transformative power of education. They take the long view and recognize that young designers, entrepreneurs, and merchants will continually revitalize the industry.

Laura and John Pomerantz are iconic figures in the fashion industry. They are generous, philanthropic, and very special friends of FIT—they are part of our DNA. They are being honored for their long-standing commitment to FIT and to all the talented students who come to us to fulfill their dreams.

The Pomerantz name is synonymous with creating opportunity and nurturing student creativity. We are very fortunate to house the Fred P. Pomerantz Art and Design Center, in honor of the patriarch of the Pomerantz family. It’s a place where our students are privileged to study and experience the power of philanthropy and commitment. I am very fortunate to count Laura and John as my friends.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

VISIONQuest

THE HOMECOMING Japanese-born designer Hanako Maeda moved to New York at age 5, but these days, she splits her time between the United States and Tokyo, where her parents have run an upscale multistore fashion brand for the past 35 years. After initial reluctance about joining the family biz, she eventually landed back where she belonged. Since founding her Adeam label in 2011, Maeda has been picked up by a major retailer, and recently rediscovered the allure of her Japanese heritage.

Did you always want to be a designer?

It’s funny—I first enrolled at Columbia University as an economics major. After my freshman year, I did an internship in investment banking. The hours were intense, and it wasn’t creative at all. I was in fixed-income sales, but I could not even explain to you what that entails. After that, I switched majors to anthropology and art history.

What do your parents do?

They have a fashion brand in Japan called Foxey, which has 17 stores. It’s more of an Oscar de la Renta or Carolina Herrera aesthetic. When I was little, I would go to fittings with my mother. They used to work with factories in Italy, so I would go with them to Milan, too. And for 10 years, my parents had a store on the first floor of the Carlyle Hotel in New York. When I was in high school here in the city, they were traveling back and forth from Japan.

How have your experiences in Tokyo and New York affected you?

I experienced two completely different cultures.

They are both very big, cosmopolitan cities, but the mind-sets are very different. I went to Marymount high school in New York City, which was right across the street from The Met, meaning we did all my AP art history classes inside the museum. I wanted to pursue that in college as well. I always loved painting and sketching, but I also liked working with my hands and sewing.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

COURTESY

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

“I GET A LOT OF INSPIRATION FROM TRADITIONAL JAPANESE CULTURE, BUT I ALWAYS WANT TO INTERPRET THOSE IDEAS IN A MORE MODERN OR URBAN WAY.”

When did you realize that fashion was your calling?

When I interned at Vogue during my junior year. It was really great to see how they pull for shoots. I was able to see all the samples from different designers.

Veronica Gledhill was my intern coordinator at Vogue.

She was André Leon Talley’s assistant at the time. I became really close with her—she’s half-Japanese.

Afterward, I worked for Phillip Lim in his studio, which was my first real design internship. That’s when I really decided I wanted to go into fashion design.

Did you ever interact with André Leon Talley?

Yes. I remember, it was 2008 during the first Obama campaign, and André had a platinum-and-diamondencrusted “Hope” pin. I was in charge of bringing it to a set, because they were going to shoot it. I was so scared, because it was so expensive. He was super nice when I brought it to him, but that pin was probably double the price of my tuition!

And Anna…?

I didn’t have a lot of interaction with Anna Wintour during my internship, but I was in Paris for market one year and I went to the Dior show and I saw her there, and she recognized me from dropping off stuff

at Vogue. I told her I was thinking of applying to the Fashion Fund soon. I’m glad I spoke with her.

What did you do when you graduated?

I moved back to Japan to work for my parents’ company for two years. I get a lot of inspiration from traditional Japanese culture, but I always want to interpret those ideas in a more modern or urban way.

Was it always your plan to marry New York and Japanese influences?

It developed over time. In the beginning, I was less inspired by my Japanese heritage. Last year, I did a show for my VIP clients in Japan. Miu Miu was reshowing their fall collection in Tokyo at the time, so a lot of my friends from Paris and New York were also there. I showed them around Tokyo and Kyoto, and they were really fascinated by classical Japanese design. Before that, it had seemed common to me—that’s when I realized how special and beautiful it is.

What are some of the signatures of your collections?

Making wearable clothing is very important to me.

It’s really important to me that the dress fits well on an actual woman, and not just a size 00 model. I think it is possible to design something that looks good on someone who is a size 2 and on someone who is a size 10 or a size 12. A lot of times when you are working toward a runway collection or a presentation, it’s really easy to get into the mind-set that if it looks good on a model, it will work commercially. Design is a creative endeavor, but it’s not pure art. It’s a marriage between art and something that’s technical and wearable.

What’s the inspiration for Fall 2016?

Japanese arts and crafts—I did a lot of research on these old Japanese fisherman jackets and I really like this idea of the Boro patchwork and mixed prints.

I was really inspired by a weaving technique called Kumihimo, which is done with woven yarns. I’m doing versions of that in woven leather and denim. I’m also incorporating this weaving idea into embroidery.

The techniques are Japanese, but the silhouettes are really modern.

You are returning to Japan to do a big show this season. Why now?

My store in Tokyo is having its three-year anniversary.

We’re also inviting a few editors and bloggers from the U.S. and Britain.

What’s next for you?

Net-A-Porter picked us up for Spring 2016. I’m really excited because their market is so big. They are really big in the U.S., but they picked us up for the U.K. and Asia as well. We don’t have a big distribution in Europe yet, so I’m really excited about the U.K., because they ship to the different European countries and also the Middle East. We also just got into Harvey Nichols.

My next store will be in Ginza, which is kind of like the Fifth Avenue of Tokyo. Now they’re making this really big shopping complex on the main street that’s a joint project with the Mori Tower and LVMH. I think the first and second floors will be all LVMH stores and the third floor will feature other brands. We’ll have an Adeam store on the third floor. We have one store in Tokyo Midtown, and I also have a corner in Isetan in Shinjuku. I love having my own stores, because then you can really create the world of Adeam. ß

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 Designer Hanako Maeda’s modern take on traditional Japanese silhouettes and fabrics has won her fans around the globe.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

MODELMoment

Mod-on-the-rise Nadja Bender has emerged stateside (and beyond) as one of the most famous faces repped by Gossip Models, an agency out of Copenhagen. Bookings editors, you should probably plan a trip to Denmark.

BY EDDIE ROCHE How were you discovered?

My former downstairs neighbor knew my booker.

He wrote to her that a girl with extremely long legs moved upstairs. She wrote to me on Facebook and asked if I wanted to stop by the agency.

What was your reaction?

It was no! I thought I was too old. I was 22, and in university. A modeling career wasn’t anything I wanted—I didn’t know anything about it. I said no a FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

couple of times, but my agent said I should try it out to make money. I ended up going in, and two months later, I did my first show in Paris—I was a YSL exclusive.

Were you nervous?

It was terrible. My first three seasons were a nightmare. I had never walked in high heels. I had foot surgery, so I have a metal plate in my foot. I wasn’t able to sleep the days before shows because I was

A LEG UP In addition to covering the likes of T and French Elle, Bender has appeared in advertising campaigns for Jimmy Choo, H&M, and Nine West.

A R M A N D O G R I L LO/ I M A XT R E E ; CO U RT ESY

GOSSIP GIRL

afraid I was going to slip. My agent said, “It’s not that hard. It’s walking.” I was terrible at the beginning.

What happened after that?

I went to Paris to walk in Chanel couture. I like doing Chanel because of the whole experience—the music, the people, the clothing. Everything is so thorough.

Gotta love Karl.

We’ve been on holidays together. I know him quite well, and he’s always super nice. He’s always thinking beyond. He remembers everything about everybody.

He even remembered my parents’ birthdays. Very impressive!

Who do you hang out with backstage?

I don’t have many model friends, but I’m close with Jamie Bochert. She lives around the corner from me.

We loved your appearance in Jimmy Choo’s Spring ’16 campaign.

I love shooting with Cass [Bird]. She’s very loose, laidback, and spontaneous. She gives you freedom.

Your mother agency has the best name ever. Are you a gossip?

Not really. Most of the time, you’re wasting your time.

What’s your relationship like with your booker?

I’ve always been into smaller agencies. I’ve always had a close relationship with my agents. I hang out with them; we go on holidays.

You’re living in New York City now. Where are we likely to find you?

I just moved to Williamsburg, and have been hanging out there a lot. I like going to the parks to chill and get some space. I also love going to the Strand bookstore.

What kind of books do you read?

Vintage books. Right now I’m reading about a psychopath and serial killers. The human mind has always intrigued me. I’m probably going to read something completely different next.

What was your major at university?

Metal technology. It’s math, chemistry, biology, and physics on an atom base. It’s very nerdy.

Are you nerdy these days?

I like the same things. I just now happen to be working as a model. I’m still a geek!

What did it feel like to make Models.com’s list of the top 50 models in the world?

Other people say that it’s kind of cool, and they are right, but in everyday life, I don’t think about it that much. I don’t look in the mirror in the morning and say, “Top 50! Awesome!”

What’s your plan?

I want to finish my master’s and find an apartment or house that I can actually live in. I have no idea where.

I’m not one of those people who has to be very specific about my future. I have goals, but where and when they happen doesn’t really matter. ß

CHIC Duo

TWIN PEAKS

Cipriana Quann and TK Wonder FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Special thanks to the G ramercy Park Hotel

WONDER WOMEN

Street style stars TK Wonder and Cipriana Quann have become regulars on the fashion circuit.

The identical twins, now represented by IMG Models, explain their ascent.

B FA N YC . C O M ( 2 )

BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO What’s your background?

Cipriana Quann: We grew up in Baltimore. Our mom really influenced us, because she was in the workforce and going to school full-time. Our father was the stay-at-home dad. It was a very strict upbringing. We didn’t go out during the summer— we had to stay in and read, write, and draw, which I appreciate now. TK and I are very close. Our parents were always saying, “You were born with a best friend. Never take that for granted.”

TK Wonder: Our mother is such a beautiful woman— she’s the one who inspired us in fashion. Her look was so effortless. She knew what made her feel comfortable, and she wasn’t afraid to try new things.

Cipriana: Our dad was also very fashionable. He took us to vintage shops and Goodwill, and taught us how to shop: “Dig deep in the bottom of the barrel.”

Our mother would wear men’s suits with a blouse.

What are your similarities and differences?

Cipriana: We’re very similar in the way that we think, the way our personalities are, but TK is more extroverted, because she’s a performer. Basically, we’re one person split into two, so it’s hard to say what’s different, because we’re so much alike.

TK: We have a slightly different dynamic when it comes to social settings, but we are very much the same. We have the same disposition. It’s great being business partners, because we rarely argue.

How can people tell you apart?

Cipriana: I’m the oldest by 15 minutes, and I had to make my way through the birth canal, so it elongated my facial structure. I made room for her!

How did you end up in New York?

Cipriana: I came here first to go to Parsons for set design and interior design, and then she came after for music and performance.

TK: I went to the New School for a bit and majored in creative writing, and then I ventured into spoken word; after that I got involved with music and started touring.

Cipriana: Our paths were very different, because I was modeling for about nine years. I did not enjoy it at all. I think it’s an amazing career path for some, but I liked having some sort of creative say. Times are changing now, but when I was doing it, it was like I was a mannequin. I also had problems with the texture of my hair. That was a conflict for most of my jobs. I was always manipulating it to make it look like something it totally wasn’t, or straightening it. That was a big problem for me. It started to change the way that I saw beauty, and I didn’t like it.

How did you end up signing with IMG Models?

TK: They asked us what we would like to do and what we wanted, and how we could see ourselves fitting in at the agency.

Cipriana: They also said that they appreciated what Do you have moments of regret when viewing the we stood for, and that the industry really needed that street style photos? type of diversity. That was really great to hear.

Cipriana: For the most part, I own what I wear.

Do you tire of talking about your hair?

TK: I come from an era where I used to dress crazy, Cipriana: I don’t mind talking about hair, because I so there’s nothing I could wear now that would be feel like a lot of people are not very knowledgeable like, “I should’ve changed that.” You should see what I about it. They will say certain things that they realize wore when I was 18. [Laughs] might come from a very stereotypical place or a place Cipriana: Pink fishnet stockings with pink highlights of ignorance, and they don’t even know or realize they in her hair, a netted top… are saying it. The only time I do get a little annoyed TK: A sparkly sprinkled skull piece, and really Goth is when people want to grab your hair and then get over-the-knee boots and zebra prints… offended when you say you have to ask if you can What are your long-term goals? touch it.

TK: I’ve always been a firm believer in being open to TK: One of the common questions we also get is, “Is possibilities. I always keep my options open, because that all your hair?” I know we have a lot of hair, but maybe there’s something in the future that it’s coming from a stereotype that black women can’t I had never considered. grow long, natural hair without the Cipriana: Sometimes we get so weave or extensions. caught up in focusing so much THE NEW FRONT ROW TK Wonder and Tell us about your site, Urban on the future that we don’t enjoy Cipriana Quann are making the rounds.

Bush Babes. life or live in the now. You could Cipriana: I co-founded the site possibly be cutting off different with Nikisha Brunson in 2011, opportunities just because you and my sister joined in 2013. have such a straightforward path.

The site is for women of color I love the element of surprise. to feel comfortable expressing Who are your designer themselves—we show what friends? mainstream media doesn’t TK: Studio 189, which is a line show, like women of color who with Rosario Dawson and her are lawyers, chefs… We’re also friend Abrima Erwiah, Tome, breaking those lines and barriers Mara Hoffman, Rebecca Minkoff, of what people see as beautiful, Marimekko, Baja East, Monse, and realizing beauty is almost LaQuan Smith, Citizens of everywhere. Beauty is diversity, Humanity, Tracy Reese… and that comes from within.

What’s your go-to vintage How did you end up on the shop? fashion radar?

Cipriana: The Mobile Vintage TK: It started when we began to Shop. It’s amazing—the owner photograph our vintage finds. We has two trucks and a store at worked with a photographer and 28 Scott Avenue in Brooklyn. we did a lot of street style on our Everything is $10 or less! own—just because we love fashion; What’s the best part of having we weren’t trying to really go a twin? anywhere with it.

TK: Having a best friend 24 hours Cipriana: I was featured in a a day. video series for Vogue, “My Life Cipriana: Having someone you at Vogue.” They followed me know will never judge you, no around for the day and I talked matter what you do. about Urban Bush Babes. It was You both laugh a lot. incredibly flattering, and we got TK: When we go out to events a lot of exposure for that. Vogue sometimes, Billy Farrell will featured us in a siblings story, say, “I always see you two and we started getting invites laughing! What else do you have to shows. Photographers to talk about after all these wondered who we were, and years?” There’s everything to it spiraled from there. talk about! ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

SWEETSpot

JOCO WEIGHS IN Joanna Coles, Cosmopolitan’s editor in chief, was an early adopter of Snapchat, and in December, she became a member of its board of directors.

Her take on the platform?

SNAP HAPPY ICYMI, the new media world has identified Snapchat as the latest, greatest app that is drawing users (and advertisers) in droves. Hearst got in the game early—last summer, Joanna Coles hired seasoned editor Luke Crisell to create a new brand expressly for Snapchat’s Discover platform. Over coffee at Hearst HQ, he explains this brave new world.

BY NATASHA SILVA-JELLY First things first: When did you launch?

A very small team began working on the project that would become Sweet last summer. By the time we began publishing in mid-November, we had assembled a tight-knit staff composed of editors, designers, animators, photo producers, and videographers. Our mission is for our readers to “Love Something New Every Day.” We envisioned Sweet as a unisex brand that’s all about championing the people, places, and things that make life more interesting across a variety of categories, from style and beauty to books, music, TV, film, food, and design. Sweet rewards curiosity and offers both a discerning curatorial perspective and a relentless optimism.

How do you determine the content mix, and how do Snapchat’s graphics provide a different experience than other digital platforms?

Sharing stories on Snapchat as a user is such a uniquely multimedia social experience. As a brand FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

that launched on Discover, we wanted to make sure that our storytelling takes full advantage of all the things that are specific to the platform—from mashups of text, video, and still imagery to built-in features users know and love, like the speed and temperature filters. It was important to us to create something that felt at home on Snapchat and also used its features in exciting and surprising ways. Snapchat users are very creative, and we wanted to both inspire that and take it to a new level with all-original motion graphics and illustrations.

What kind of production timeline are you working with?

We create stories on a rolling basis, keeping production to roughly a one-week advance close.

We do it this way because some stories are bigger projects that require more coordination and production with creative teams and talent, but other stories we are able to turn around quickly, often

in response to cultural events or news that feels relevant to our readers’ interests.

What’s so appealing about working in this new medium?

There’s simply no other place to tell stories right now that has as enthusiastic an audience as Snapchat. On top of that, the way that Discover is formatted is just a really pleasing experience in terms of narrative control and pacing for us as storytellers—and also, we’re hearing, for advertisers, too. We’ve all worked at beloved brands before we came together for Sweet, but nothing has been quite as satisfying as making something brand-new that was able to reach such a huge, curious, and engaged audience right away.

How do you plan to evolve the brand?

We see Sweet growing into a trusted brand for identifying, introducing, and promoting some of the world’s most amazing talent and products across the broad spectrum of categories that we cover. When “click-to-buy” functionality is added to Snapchat, we see Sweet having a thriving e-commerce marketplace, further promoting the creatives we feature, as well as the things they make and sell. We launched Sweet on Snapchat because it’s where our ideal reader is already hanging out—obsessively, insatiably—every single day. And while we still package each daily edition specifically for Snapchat Discover and all of its various capabilities, we launched a website so that the stories we have created would have a permanent home after their 24 hours on the app. It’s also an opportunity to share our point of view with a different audience, who may not have adopted Snapchat yet.

What do your colleagues at Hearst think of Sweet?

Hearst has one of the most ambitious and accomplished digital departments in media. So, yes, everyone is invested and engaged in this project, from the executive level to entry-level employees who obsessively read it every day. ß

B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 ) ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; C O U R T E S Y

“Everyone in the media should be on Snapchat or they’ll be left behind,” she says. “The only thing we care about is where our reader is, and Snapchat is so clearly the dominant way young millennials speak to their friends. I love Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram; they’re for an audience. Snapchat is like hanging with your friend. It’s more personal; that’s the difference.

What I love about the Discover platform is that it’s really edited—we are not just unloading a dump truck of content. Sweet is a great example of highly curated and limited content, and it’s amazing how quickly Luke Crisell has created a brand with Snapchat from nothing. Within its first week, people were pretending to me that they’d known it for ages. One person even told me he had a vintage Sweet T-shirt!”

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BACKSTAGEQueen

NO SMALTZ FEAT

For decades, she’s assisted Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, and many of the top designers at NYFW while giving guidance to the world’s top models.

Meet Audrey Smaltz, founder of The Ground Crew and storied backstage dresser—the sassiest unsung hero we’ve encountered.

BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO First things first: What do you do?

The Ground Crew is a backstage management corporation that takes care of everything you can think of when it comes to backstage. We know how to set up a show! We do fashion shows, fashion shoots, and fashion videos. We do hair, makeup, dressing, pressing, styling, sewing, seamstress work, tailoring— we can call a show and set up your entire backstage.

We work for both young designers who have never done a show before and established designers.

How long have you been in business?

Thirty-eight years. We started our business on the seventh day in the 11th month of the 77th year— 7/11/77. We’ve been doing backstage for 32 years,

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

and it’s just been wonderful. We started on Seventh Avenue, where we did shows in showrooms. Our very first show was Donna Karan’s. There were only three or four a day, and we’d be in a stairwell, dressing models as they went out.

What other challenges did you face?

Back in the day, we’d have three or four girls on the runway at once. Now, the lineup is not so difficult because it’s just one girl going out and one girl coming back.

Why has that changed?

I don’t know. It’s costing more to have more models.

But when you had Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, and all those top girls, they used to make three or four

changes. It was easy—boom, boom. They were so good and they were so fast. Most of these girls today can’t walk.

What makes a good walk in your eyes?

Someone who has the right posture and attitude, who doesn’t just put one leg across the other leg. When you walk, you walk on a straight line. The girls today cross over each foot and they’re awkward—that’s how they lose their balance. If you walk on that straight line and if you’re looking straight ahead at those photographers, you can’t lose your balance. And you have to have a little something that the other girls don’t have. And these girls don’t have that.

But many do! Karlie Kloss?

She’s a pro now, but she has personality. The nice models always did well. Girls who were difficult are just difficult. But we enjoy it!

How do you deal with difficult girls backstage?

Let ’em be difficult. It takes two to make an argument.

So if you’re nice and they see how nice you are…they can still kick off their shoes, and they can throw things at you.

Have you ever had anything thrown at you?

Of course.

How did you deal with that?

You just catch it. There was a model—I’m not mentioning any names, but she was top back in the day. She said, “Audrey, don’t touch me.” Fine, you can dress yourself. I just handed her things. She’d just throw them back at me. If you treat them with kindness and respect, you get it back and they thank you afterward. If we have a problem girl, we can turn her around.

Do you think models are nicer now than they

GETTY IMAGES

were in the ’90s?

In the ’90s the girls were a bit older. Now, it’s a lot of teenagers.

Which designers have you worked with?

You name them, I’ve worked with them: Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, Bill Blass, Patrick Kelly, Mary McFadden, Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, Karl Lagerfeld. Everybody you can think of! The one we’ve been with the longest is Donna Karan, from her very first show until her very last show. I worked with Bill Blass until his last show.

Which memories stand out?

Barbra Streisand backstage at Donna Karan! We were in the Tents and she came in through the backstage door. So Barbra Streisand comes in, she’s in her hat, all dressed up. I told the crew, “Don’t say hello to Miss Streisand. Just look at her, say nothing.” She was divine. She smiled at everybody. She had stayed backstage for a good while, so we got a really good look at her. They escorted her out. The show was really sensational. Afterward, we were packing up, and one of the PR girls came backstage crying. I said, “Sweetheart, what happened? The show was fabulous!” And she said, “Anna Wintour wasn’t there.”

They started the show without Vogue, without Bazaar, without Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue…they were so excited that Barbra Streisand was there!

Where do you find the people who work with you?

They find us. In the beginning, I would find people and then I’d say, “I know you have a friend…” But now, they call us from all over. We get people from Paris, London, California, Atlanta, Florida. They come in just for Fashion Week. Because we pay—we have no volunteers. We pay everybody and we train people. We tell you everything we expect of you—you wear black, you must have a prop kit, and you can’t be late.

What are some encounters you’ve had with designers?

There was one designer at a show at the Plaza Hotel and we couldn’t get the dress off the girl. The zipper wasn’t working. The designer pushed me and said, “Get out of my way!” and ripped the dress off of her.

I couldn’t do that! The designers have a lot on their minds. You gotta leave ’em alone, stay outta their way.

One time, we had to cut a boot off a girl. At another show we had 20 models, and I think I had five or six pairs of shoes for them to wear. Some designers don’t have enough shoes—they don’t have the right sizes.

They’re young.

Any other headaches?

We had one show at Milk when it first opened.

The client was from England, and it was an early morning show—9 o’clock. So we were there before 8. My niece was in charge, and she introduced herself to the designer. We always introduce ourselves. She said, “May I have your run of the show?” He says, “I don’t have a run of the show.” When she looked at the racks, there were no numbers. Nothing. “Well, I need a run of the show so I know when the models are going out because we’re gonna dress them.” And he said, “I want to surprise you.” He was serious! So my niece said, “Okay…” And we made a run of the show. We figured it out. He didn’t want us to know?

We’re backstage!

What do you think of the show scene these days?

Too many shows! And the designers really can’t afford it. It’s an ego trip. Who’s producing those clothes?

Who’s manufacturing the clothes? They just want a show for their friends. Have a video, get some publicity, and then that’s it. You never hear from them again. It’s very difficult to be a designer. Very difficult.

Year after year after year, you need to have someone who really knows production who works for you. The designers are the creatives, but you need to have the

“I USED TO STAND BACKSTAGE HOLDING EVERYONE’S CIGARETTES. THEY TOOK A DRAG, HIT THE RUNWAY, AND CAME BACK TO FINISH THEIR CIGARETTES.” person who’s the businessman or businesswoman.

The designer is on the line. This is their day. Don’t look You can’t do everything, sweetheart. I just adore those at them, don’t talk to them. We say a silent prayer people who design. And we see so many new people, and the prayer is very simple—we pray they have the and you don’t think you’re gonna hear from them best press, the most buyers, that it’s so fantastic, and again. I can just look at my records and see how many that they hire us again. Someone once said something people I worked for, and you wouldn’t even know their nasty about us: “I see y’all praying.” It’s not easy out names today. here. They don’t know how difficult it is to survive in Who are the favorite girls you’ve worked with? this world! And people are so jealous of each other.

Alek Wek! She was my baby. At her first show in Knock it off!

London, I said, “Sweetheart, you’re gonna be fine.

So you’re writing a book?

You’re gonna knock ’em dead, girl.” I would juice I’m writing my memoirs! I’m going to have some those girls up. “Girl, you’re gon’ kill ’em, kill ’em out fun stories. there.” Then I saw her in New York and she said to No doubt! Remind us of your age, if you don’t me, “Audrey, I’ll never forget you.” I love Naomi. I mind. love Linda Evangelista. I love Dalma [Collado]. In I’m 78 years old. Born in 1937. Never nipped, tucked, between shows, the girls would go to Bill’s Tavern. or ’toxed.

They were feeling no pain after. They were strutting What’s your beauty secret? down that runway. Linda used to bring a friend of Moisturize, moisturize… [Laughs] You know what it mine champagne. In those days, the models would is? I was in the era when everyone was doing weed, give whatever the designers gave them—the gifts—to smoking, cocaine—just high. Drinking…I didn’t do any our team. They would give us of that. All I did was smoke some bathrobes. Whatever. It doesn’t Newport cigarettes. So many young happen anymore. people abuse themselves. Then, of What’s the Victoria’s Secret course, to have the right mother show like? and father, that helps—good genes.

We’ve been doing it for 15 You can tell people who’ve done a years. Those girls have good lot to themselves as they get older, personalities. Those older girls— can’t you? I don’t have anything they’re hot. We know all of them. against women getting face-lifts They’re so happy to see us. They and neck lifts—I’m just not there. tell us who they’re married to I’m pleased with where I am. I have or not married to anymore; they the most beautiful young wife. Did talk about their children. We hold you hear about it? Oh, she’s 17-andtheir phones—“Sweetheart, I a-half years younger than me. Gail. gotta hit the runway. Hold on.” I A former Olympian. She does the DONNA KARAN used to stand backstage holding cooking. But all my life, I had the “Audrey’s in a class by herself. In the everyone’s cigarettes. They took most fabulous men. I was with beginning it was just her—a onea drag, hit the runway, and came Lionel Hampton for over 14 years, woman show. She did the back and back to finish their cigarettes. so I got to know Benny Goodman. front of house. She wrote editors’ None of that anymore.

You name the jazz people…those names on little white cards, and we’d How does it feel to have were my buddies. place them on the seats without any dedicated your life to the You didn’t realize you were a seating chart. Then she made sure fashion business? lesbian until later in life? every girl was dressed and ready to It’s a hobby, and I get paid. It’s At 61. I swear to God. So I go to walk the show, which she called. She not like I’m driving a truck or I my shrink and I say to him, “I got handled it all. I can remember her work at the post office or I have something to tell you. And you teaching her dressers how to wrap and tie the skirts and deal with the to sit at a desk and answer a know you’ve been listening to me bodysuit snaps. She was warm, yet phone. Every day is new and for the past 11 years. You have to no-nonsense. Everyone—from her different. It’s something I look tell me what’s going on. Guess dressers to the models to my PR and forward to; it makes me happy. I what? I have fallen in love with a design teams—loved her and did make other people happy. It’s the woman. What do you have to say whatever she asked. A good dresser best thing that could ever happen to that?” I’m talking to him on the can make or break a show. You’ve to a person, a woman, I don’t phone because he had released me got seconds to make the changes know, to me. I’ve been doing it my by this time—I had gotten well. He and make them right. Audrey was whole life. said to me, “Audrey, you’re on your the conductor, making sure it ran How do you feel on the eve of journey.” Our first date was in May smoothly and professionally. To me, Fashion Week?

1999. And the rest is history. I’m she was family. When Audrey appeared, it was ‘showtime!’ ” We start before. We’re prepared. happy. ß

AUDREY ’S FAN CLUB

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

THE THREE MARKETEERS If digesting the digital landscape is giving you agita, here’s a remedy: Maison MRKT, a start-up that specializes in e-commerce. The agency will lasso potential customers from the growing number of digital platforms— Instagram, websites, e-blasts, and the ilk—and collect intel you can actually work with. Intrigued? Co-founder Matt Nastos breaks it down.

BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO IT TAKES THREE (From left) Co-founders Matt Nastos, Lexi Nastos, and Matt McGlynn

In a nutshell, what does Maison MRKT do?

We’re an e-commerce acquisition agency. We help our clients align their digital presence—whether it’s e-mail, search engine optimization, or social media— with target customers. We offer a blend of services that takes a multichannel approach to e-commerce, and we analyze the relationship between them.

Where did the idea come from?

Maison MRKT was started by me, Matt McGlynn, and my younger brother, Lexi [Nastos]. Matt and I met while working at an e-commerce startup, The Cools. We were responsible for onboarding different collections to the platform. We noticed that a lot of the collections didn’t have an overarching e-commerce strategy. Businesses would spend an enormous amount of money on the development of the online shop, but once it was up and running, there was no one to take the reins and guide the digital retail strategy.

So how did you land on the name?

I’m a big fan of Johan Lindeberg and his collection BLK DNM. So I came up with BLK MRKT—I thought it sounded badass—but it was already a T-shirt company or something. Then on Mr. Porter, I saw Maison Margiela, and thought that alliteration had a great ear-feel. Maison MRKT has the alliteration, and it FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

mixes commerce and fashion.

Who was the first to sign on?

Orley, a luxury knitwear collection that’s part of the CFDA Fashion Incubator. We’re still working with them.

It’s always been our goal to grow with our clients. We now have 15.

Do many clients have a desire to learn, or do they prefer to take a backseat?

Our clients have a great appreciation for the shift toward direct-to-consumer and e-commerce. While they defer to us as the experts, they all want to increase their fluency. That said, there are a lot of acronyms, lingo, and metrics that are pretty new, and many are unique to specific platforms. On some, there are no solid metrics, because they’ve only existed for a few months. We go through the exploratory experience together and help guide the way.

In terms of the lingo, do you find that you have to do a bit of hand-holding?

What’s differentiated our business is that we’re not sitting back and telling our clients, “Hey, if you do this, you’ll be successful.” More often than not, we integrate and run the campaign ourselves. A lot of the clients that we work with are not digital experts; they’re product and business people who are more

focused on getting their collection to the market, so they look to us to steer the ship.

Why was the timing right to launch this kind of service?

There are lots of exciting things going on in Silicon Alley—that’s what people call the New York City tech scene. We realized that a lot of fashion businesses are driven by creative entrepreneurs who don’t necessarily have a skill set nor interest in data and technology.

Because we come from a fashion background—Lexi has experience at Theory and on the men’s buying team at Scoop—it helps put a lot of our clients at ease.

We admire their collection and understand it, much more so than statisticians or nerds who can’t tell one product from another. You also get to a certain point where you have to pick up the wheels and take off.

How do you interface with clients?

We speak with everyone, from the owners and the operators to e-commerce managers or in-house digital marketing point people. At least once a month, we go over a detailed e-commerce recap of the previous month; we’ll review the data and analytics, and identify points of opportunity.

How do you personify customers?

We ask clients to share all the demographic information they have about their target customers in a questionnaire. We then create personifications— the jet-setter, the bro, or the Upper East Sider—that allow us to segment our campaigns in a more refined way. At the midpoint of each campaign, we look at the sales data in the online shop and compare that with our projections. So sometimes clients think the core customer is a woman who’s 45 to 55 years old in Tribeca, but it turns out that it’s the recent college grad from Long Island.

What’s next?

It’s very nerdy, but we’re excited about what’s happening with data science. Now you can apply machine-learning techniques—which sounds like something out of a Terminator film—to your information and you can use that to make predictions.

Essentially, we’re figuring out how to bring the worlds of data and fashion together. It’s an exciting challenge that presents a lot of opportunities. The fashion community is hungry for the data we’re bringing to the table. While the two might use different sides of the brain, a realization has occurred in fashion that this is the wave of the future. ß

SURVEY SAYS! with Misha Nonoo

When did you enlist Maison MRKT? In December 2014—we heard about them from our CFDA Fashion Incubator neighbor, Orley.

What was the appeal?

Our team consists of people with mostly design backgrounds. The tech world was pretty new to

us. We loved the company’s approach; they gave us an intro class, on the proper vocabulary and meanings, making this world more understandable, fun, and less scary.

What types of projects have they helped with?

They dig deep and have found analytics in unlikely places, which has allowed us to make changes to better serve our consumer.

Some of their findings were behind our shift to a consumer-driven calendar. This would be scary if we were trusting just our guts, but now we have hard data. The team takes the time to learn about your brand story and they build customizable plans based on your goals.

COURTESY

TECHIntel

Real-world education means value-added employees.

Berkeley College graduates enter the workforce with more than a typical classroom education.

Programs developed with input from industry experts.

Outstanding faculty. Access to top fashion industry resources.

That’s what the Fashion Marketing and Management program at Berkeley College is all about.

In fact, our time-tested approach to education is so effective that leading companies and organizations hire Berkeley grads year after year.

Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu

Find us @BerkeleyCollege • #BerkeleyCollege

Berkeley College reserves the right to add, discontinue, or modify its programs and policies at any time.

Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures.

“We prepare our students by constantly adapting our program to meet the needs of employers.

From omni-channel retailing to social media marketing to global product lifecycle management, they’re ready.”

Joshua Williams Chair, Fashion Department P4597-8.2014

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FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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Lordandtaylor.com, Lord & Taylor, 424 Fifth Avenue, NYC, (212) 391-3344 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

TOTALParody

BY ASHLEY BAKER

FEELINGS Is now a good time, dancing colon? How are you?

Better, thanks. I made the classic mistake of ordering three carne asada quesadillas from Los Tacos No. 1 between shows. But 15 minutes after one Xifaxan, ça va.

Are you ever concerned that some viewers may find you offensive?

Why on Earth…? Let me tell you, life would be far more challenging sans moi.

So we’ve been seeing you a lot on television. Whose idea was that?

Those guys at Saatchi & Saatchi. The American market is huge for us. You should see what the rapid expansion of the Cheesecake Factory has done to our margins.

My magazine placements were dismal— publishers tend to relegate organs like me to the back of book. Bertelli would freak if I ran next to Prada, etc. Although my particular shade of pink is terribly on-trend for spring, as you know.

In one of your TV spots, you cover yourself in a white linen napkin and sit down to dinner at an upscale restaurant. Can you talk a little bit about that?

Sure. I am selling a premium product. Eating in a diner would not be appropriate.

Are you a fashion guy?

I have fit issues, I’m afraid, but like many Americans, I really splurge on accessories.

I must confess that I spend an inordinate amount of time on HSN. Cameron Silver’s H

by Halston revival… divine!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Do you watch any scripted shows?

Mostly House and Grey’s Anatomy. It’s very interesting for someone in my field—those guys are usually enduring way more exotic maladies. My main complaints are abdominal bloating, gas, and general discomfort. Pretty plebeian stuff, I’m afraid.

You must be aware that some people are attempting to ban the likes of you from television.

Yes, I read about them on Lesley Jane Seymour’s Facebook. It’s astounding that some people still think of themselves as immune to revenue pressures. In an era of deep discounts, chérie, I pay full freight, whether it’s on screen or on the printed page.

We love you for that.

Is Lesley Jane still at Meredith? Those are my people! Honestly, I might pull my business, and I'm going to tell my buddy, the incontinent bladder, to do the same.

We'd ask you to run in The Daily, but you know—Bertelli and all that.

No biggie. Thanks for the plug.

COURTESY

GUT

We’ve all been there—sitting down to watch a little Naked and Afraid, and there he is, that adorable dancing colon who’s prone to suffering from a rumbly in his tumbly. We’re obsessed!

What happens when class ends? For us, it’s where opportunity begins. We give our students the skills and resources they need—an expert faculty, internships with top companies, and a constantly growing myriad of connections built on our rock-solid reputation—to turn real experiences into real careers. When they enter the workforce, it’s with a confidence that distinguishes them from their peers. We think BEYOND THE CLASSROOM to prepare our students for success beyond graduation.

LEARN MORE AT LIMCOLLEGE.EDU/BEYOND

Victoria Dipiazza ‘16 Fashion Merchandising Interned at Anthropologie, Marc Jacobs, John Varvatos, CollegeFashionista

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