The Daily Front Row by DAILY FRONT ROW INC

September 10, 2015

c r a m e h T e i t a &k

w o Sh The

scoop

on how their chemistry defines

PLUS!

Models, maestros, noses,

and other juicy bitsâ&#x20AC;Ś

fashion

13111_FA15_US_SEP10_DAILY_ROW LHP Trim: 10.75inW x 13.5inH

13111_FA15_US_SEP10_DAILY_ROW RHP Trim: 10.75inW x 13.5inH

N E W YO R K C H I C AG O B E V E R LY H I L L S PA L M B E AC H A M E R I C A N A M A N H A S S E T M I C H A E L KO R S . C O M

NicholasK-G-Shock-06.indd All Pages

8/28/15 11:20 AM

MOROCCANOIL: ONE BRAND. A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BEAUTY.

Available in salons worldwide | Moroccanoil.com

In a world of oIl- Infused haIr care o n ly o n e o u t s h i n es t h e r es t m o r o c c a n o i l t r e a t m e n t: t h e a r g a n o i l - i n f u s e d i n n o vat i o n t h at r e vo l u t i o n i z e d h a i r c a r e

Moroccanoil celebrates its Spring/Summer 2016 New York Fashion Week collaborations with Altuzarra, Cushnie et Ochs, Delpozo, Marchesa, Monique Lhuillier and Zac Posen

Did you miss us?

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

DAPHNE GROENEVELD AT Jean Paul gaultier haute couture fall 2015

READY FOR

CHIC WEEK?

What a long, languid summer it’s been! You’ve spent the past month in Greece— we know, we know, and so does everyone else on Instagram—but now, le business is calling. Are you prepared? 1. Let’s start with an easy one. Who’s designing DKNY? A. Donna Karan B. Jane Chung C. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne D. Aliza Licht

2. Moving on. What’s the official name of New York Fashion Week? A. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week B. New York Fashion Week C. New York Fashion Week: The Shows D. MADE in NY [FW]

7. What’s a “kidult”? A. A 10-year-old with his own full-time staffer B. The latest protein-filled supergrain C. A new line of figurines from Kidrobot D. The hottest Indian resort destination since Goa

8. What’s the somewhat perplexing editorial theme ascribed to the launch of VogueRunway.com? A. The buzziest designers of the upcoming fashion season B. The new guard at the established brands of Milan, Paris, New York, and London C. The ’90s D. The ubiquity of Karl Lagerfeld

3. According to Keith Kelly, Maxim editrix Kate Lanphear is earning… 9. Why are the Olsens showing A. $250K The Row in Paris this season? B. $300K, plus a 5 percent ad sales commission C. $175K, plus unlimited Steak ’n Shake and a $25K Eddie Borgo allowance D. $700K, at least for now

4. What’s the best way to nab a front-row seat at Givenchy? A. Request through KCD B. Register through nycgo.com C. Ask Riccardo for one during your usual August trip to Ibiza D. Reveal yourself to be a long-lost Kardashian

5. The rumored impending retirement of qui has the fashion world buzzing? A. Harold Koda B. Ed Nardoza C. Glenda Bailey D. Gisele Bündchen

6. Which top model did not grace the cover of your dear Daily Summer? A. Toni Garrn B. Lindsay Ellingson C. Nadine Leopold D. Natasha Poly

A. Nicolas Sarkozy and Carla Bruni offered to sit front-row B. Their samples are late! Their samples are late! C. It’s what Phoebe Philo is doing, n’est-ce pas? D. Unclear, especially since they just won the CFDA’s top honor given to American designers

10. Who has the quickest commute to Moynihan Station? A. UES-ers and their Ubers B. Tribecans and their taxis C. Newark types and their NJ Transit D. Aficionados of the ACE

11. What’s the rumored name of Rihanna’s upcoming beauty line? A. Most Beautiful Beauty B. Fenty Beauty C. Makeup for RiRi D. Gorgeousness Guaranteed

12. What’s Alex White’s new gig? A. In-house stylist at David Yurman B. Fashion director of Glamour C. U.S. fashion director at large of Porter D. Creative director at Douglas Elliman

Street” column and The Daily’s “Man on the Street” back page? A. Rien. We syndicate, darlings! B. One is written by Derek Blasberg, the other by George Wayne C. One features “real people,” the other features celebrities D. One is a gossip column, the other is a page of personal ads

14. Who is Frasse Johansson? A. A fresh face from our friends at IMG Models B. The 11-year-old star of the Acne Studios campaign C. A violin prodigy (and ScarJo’s younger brother) D. The new creative director at Self, who was poached from i-D

15. And finally, which face are you not likely to see at tonight’s Fashion Media Awards? A. Anna Kendrick B. Lily Aldridge C. Amar’e Stoudemire D. Khloé Kardashian

0–5 correct answers: You are…KRISTEN McMENAMY Our love for you is long and loyal, and you are ripe for another comeback. Study your Daily religiously, and success is guaranteed.

5–10 correct answers: You are…KATE UPTON Once ubiquitous, you are laying a bit low. Excellent means of building mystique, chérie, but we miss your gorgeous face (and body).

10–15 correct answers: You are…GIGI HADID As hot and haute as possible, just the way we like it. Enjoy!

13. What’s the difference between Vanity Fair’s “Our Man on the

k e v i n ta c h m a n

ANSWERS: 1. C; 2. C; 3. D; 4. D; 5. B; 6. D; 7. A; 8. C; 9. D; 10. C; 11. B; 12. C; 13. C; 14. B; 15. D

the

front row Brandusa Niro

Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director

joie de

daily !

Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Reporter Sydney Sadick Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva

Mark Tevis Publisher

people welove

Here’s the thing about The Daily: our raison d’être is you. The creatives, the talents, the visionaries—you make the fashion world the very best place to live and work. The most transformative moments are always collaborative efforts, and nowhere is that spirit more evident than in our cover subjects, Marc Jacobs and Katie Grand. Both close friends and loyal colleagues, their joint efforts have turned fashion on its head time and time again. The clothes have been celebrated for years, but did you know how Katie and Marc truly get it done? Their chemistry, their texts, their obsessions, their ups and downs, and how they extract brilliance out of chaos…you’ll read it here first. Have the chicest week ever, and we’ll see you tonight at the FMAs!

Fashion Director, Advertising Chloe Worden Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Marketing Director Anna Lombardi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: mark@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

On the cover: Marc Jacobs and Katie Grand Photographed for the daily by ANONYMOUS.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

k e v i n ta c h m a n

OVER 1OOO EXCLUSIVES / OVER 1OO DESIGNERS / 1 STORE

From left to right: Maje jacket and dress, Longchamp bag Alice + Olivia blouse and skirt Tory Burch blouse, skirt and bag Sandro dress

In stores September 1st Bloomingdales.com/100percent

MACY’S MOMENT!

Madonna

your daily dose

#WMagModelSearch winner Alexis Primous Riccardo Tisci

BEST PARTIES!

SCENE

Catch us at…

1. Tonight’s Fashion Media Awards, clearly! 2. Givenchy’s spectacle on the pier, because of course 3. Harper’s Bazaar’s “Icons” bash at The Plaza on Wednesday, toasting Oprah and Dakota, with a performance by Katy Perry 4. “Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer” party at Provocateur on Tuesday. Rihanna sighting? 5. W, IMG Models, and Instagram’s model search party on Monday

Emily Ratajkowski

Dakota Johnson

☛ What a long, strange trip it’s been since we last saw vous! An endless winter, a delightfully languid summer and then boom! September est là, and so much has changed. Donna? All Urban Zen. Natalie Massenet? No longer a member of @ thenetset. This whole election cycle? We don’t know where to begin. One thing is certain— fashion, like time, marches on. Here’s to the best shows yet! ☛ But the real question is...Will you recognize Uma Thurman at Desigual?

Donna Karan

Oprah Natalie Massenet

Katy Perry

Rihanna

DAILY SERVICE! WHERE TO EAT AT PENN STATION

We’ve already established that the new fashion week experience is called NYFW: The Shows. Now how to entertain yourselves when you’re hanging around Moynihan Station? Darlings, there’s an entire world underground— there’s no need to lament the loss of Lincoln Center and its 4-star cuisine. If you like it lowbrow, that is! TGI Friday’s: Any menu that features a wide array of “Endless Apps” is worth a glance, non? Auntie Anne’s Pretzels: Okay, so it’s no P.J. Clarke’s, but in case you fancy a pepperoni pretzel for lunch, you’re covered. It will set you back 480 calories (with a whopping 8g of saturated fat!), but we dare you to resist the smell. Sbarro: The ’90s are back—haven’t you heard? Time to revisit this mall favorite... Hot & Crusty: We’ve never actually eaten here, so we can’t exactly endorse, but the name is either kind of cute, or really gross. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

On Thursday, September 17, Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row will hit The Theater at Madison Square Garden. The event, which toasts the intersection of music and fashion, will involve a catwalk along with musical and dance performances. Expect special presentations of designs from Heidi Uma Thurman by Heidi Klum Intimates, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, Jessica Simpson, and Hello Kitty. Makeup courtesy of Lancôme and technology from Samsung will augment the offerings. The spectacle will be broadcast on E! on Bella Hadid Wednesday, September 23 at 8 p.m. Set your DVRs!

UBIQUITORS ALERT! Number of tip sheets we’ve received with Ratajkowski’s name sprinkled throughout: too many to count. Expect an eyeful this week…same goes for Bella Hadid, who is due for a serious runway moment. Both are covering the new issue of Editorialist magazine, FWIW!

anYONE FANCY A CONCERT? Another benefit of NYFW: The Shows’ new location— immediate proximity to MSG! Death Cab for Cutie is playing on September 12, Madonna is doing shows on September 16 and 17, and the New York Liberty is playing the Washington Mystics on September 11. Get your tickets, get your tickets!

bfanyc.com (7); getty images (5); shutterstock

S:10.25”

S:13”

WHAT WOMEN WANT! With Josie Natori

Love your new eveningwear! I’m very proud of the authenticity of our workmanship. Is designing eveningwear different from lingerie? The approach is the same—it’s done in an artful way. Eveningwear is exciting—there are no limits. How have you applied what you learned on Wall Street to fashion? I approach fashion as a business. I’ve been able to satisfy the left-brain, but I don’t care how gorgeous something is, if no one can wear or buy it, it’s not going to sustain you. What’s your day like? Normally I’m up at 7, and I have a trainer three times a week. But I hate routine, and I’m a workaholic. What’s that expression? I will die with my boots on. Lucy In my stilettos!

Yeomans

NOW THIS, WE LOVE:

Our pals at Glamsquad simply refuse to let us go to shows with less-than-perfect personal grooming. Introducing the GLAMTAXI, a mobile salon offering hair and makeup services to busy professionals (well, professional show-goers). Keep your eyes peeled for these bright pink Chevy Suburbans, approach the taxi, and show the driver that you’ve downloaded the Glamsquad app. They’ll be running between show venues from September 11-17, and the cost is—get this!—free for those who are lucky enough to flag one down.

z u z B

Shoe of the

Daily Meet the Koko, now starring in the Stuart Weitzman FW15 music video “Make That Move” alongside Gisele, directed by Mario Testino. Crafted from the brand’s signature stretch leather, this peeptoe bootie is streamlined and ready to rock 24/7. It’s $575, available in stores and at stuartweitzman.com.

Fix

Toni Garrn

Scarlett Johansson

DISCUSS

☛ Magic moment! David Copperfield is toasting wife, shoe designer Chloe Gosselin, at the launch of her short film tonight, and we kind of need to be there. ☛ Aritzia is opening a new flagship at 89 Fifth Avenue. ☛ Because pampering you is loving you, Maybelline, Moroccanoil and Essie will be on hand at The Park Hyatt New York this afternoon to provide pre-show glam to influencers, models, and VIPs that are attending the FMAs! The glamour will take place in the Residence Spaces on the Mezzanine level. Guests will sip on Nicolas Feuillatte and document it all via #2015FMAs! Invitation only.

SCARJO, IS THAT YOU?

The actress is hosting a dinner at The Top of The Standard this weekend for Brooklyn-based artist José Parlá, who created murals for Barclays Center and the new World Trade Center, among other things.

FEAST ON THIS!

Bon Appétit’s Feast or Fashion extravaganza is back with a slew of great events! Last night, Rachel Comey hosted her presentation with chef Ignacio Mattos and the Estela team; the menu was inspired by her Spring ’16 collection. Tonight, it’s an insider and consumer affair with the The Hot 10 party at Seaport Studios. Tomorrow, AL’s Place’s Aaron London and Animal’s Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo will host a lunch alongside Rosie Assoulin’s showing. On September 16, Lauren Bush Lauren and Untitled chef Michael Anthony will welcome folks to the BA Kitchen for a FEED supper. Mangia!

Award Moment! Stefano Tonchi

The Daily Front Row’s third-annual Fashion Media Awards are here! Tonight, we’ll be at the Park Hyatt, toasting this year’s winners: Robbie Myers, Lucy Yeomans, Stefano Tonchi, Anthony Cenname, Taylor Hill, Goga Ashkenazi, Vanity Fair’s Jane Sarkin, Laverne Cox, The Hollywood Reporter’s Janice Min and Merle Ginsberg, and more. Tony Goldwyn and Toni Garrn will emcee, and VIPs like Katie Couric, Amar’e Stoudemire, and Anna Kendrick will be on hand to present. Millions of thanks to our sponsors Maybelline New York, Brookfield Place, Moroccanoil, Nicolas Feuillatte, Revolve and TOWN Residential for making this happen!

Tony Goldwyn

EMPIRE AMONG US!

Empire is practically uniEmpire legends versally adored. Saks gets Taraji P. Henson it, too, which is why they’re and Terrence Howard hosting the cast (!!!) for a “visit” at the Fifth Avenue flagship on Saturday afternoon. We’ll try to keep calm, but no promises. b f a n y c . c o m ( 2 ) ; G E T T Y I MA G E S ( 6 ) ; a l l o t h e r s c o u r tes y

Statement Brows Wes Gordon’s Fall 2015 runway was full of perfectly defined arches. With Maybelline New York’s new Eye Studio Brow Drama Sculpting Brow Mascara this look is easily re-created at home—or in the front row—with a few quick strokes. The sculpting ball brush flawlessly coats brows with a tinted gel without clumping. Hint: to amp up the drama opt for a slightly darker shade.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Alina Baikova

Workout routine: I work out every day. If I’m in NYC, I love a boot camp session. And if I’m traveling and there aren’t any gyms or trainers nearby, I go for a 5k or 10k run. Personal guru: In NYC, I train with Mateo Maldonado, a Muay Thai world champion who is still fighting. In Paris, I train with Pacôme Assi, the world heavyweight champion who is also still fighting. When in St. Barth I train with Loïc Lapèze—he does Iron Mans all over the world! The afterglow: It’s the best feeling. I’m very addicted. You won’t find me… Doing pull-ups. They’re so hard! Fuel for the fire: I never eat before a workout. But after, I’ll have an egg-white omelet with avocado and olive oil, a green smoothie or a coconut water.

s n s e Fit A Model Workout

So what if your modeling career never took off ? You can still look runway-ready with a few tips from the experts themselves. We asked six stunners to bare it all.

Barbara Fialho

Hailey Clauson

Workout routine: I try to work out five days a week with my trainer. Two of those days we box and jump rope. One day we work out my legs and booty by doing squats and duckwalk, and the other two days would be ab workouts, like crunches, leg lifts, and bicycles. On the days that we can’t train, I’ll run. Personal trainer: My boyfriend, Jullien Herrera! Fitness motto: It’s always worth it once the workout is finished! Soundtrack: Old-school and today’s hip-hop, like Kool & the Gang and 50 Cent, along with top-40 hits and rock ’n’ roll.

Brian Shimansky

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Fix

Workout routine: I work out five times a week. My favorite exercise is swimming—it really shapes your body with very low impact. Best gyms: I do boxing at Gotham Gym. I swim, do Pilates, and run at Equinox. Fitness motto: It’s all about feeling confident and comfortable with your body, no matter what your body type is. You won’t find me… In group classes. I love to work out by myself as it helps me clear my mind, or with a trainer so I can be focused on my goals. Biggest obstacle: Keeping it constant as I travel so much. I usually bring my jump rope with me, so even if I can’t do a full workout session I’ll still get some cardio. Soundtrack: I love listening to Brazilian music, like samba. Fuel for the fire: I try to have good, healthy snacks before and after. I love eating fruits, vegetables, salad, oatmeal, loads of water and juices, and lean protein, like fish and tofu. It’s also important to sleep and rest!

Workout routine: At the gym, its high-intensity cross-training with an emphasis on complex core stability. Outside, I love to run, swim, bike, hike, paddle, and climb. I also play baseball, golf, tennis, and roller hockey. Motto: Send it. You won’t find me… Doing the mirrored selfie flex. Best gym: Equinox. Keys tips: Step away from your phone, identify specific fitness-related goals, and pursue them. Learn from our older generations. We’ve seen 90-year-olds who figure skate and 60-year-olds whose hearts explode; think about who you want to be. Biggest obstacle: Maintaining motivation and intensity levels. When I feel it fade, I set new goals, learn a new skill, challenge a friend to a competition at the driving range, or go five rounds on a heavy bag. Soundtrack: From Paul Simon to Guns N’ Roses to Eve 6 to Mark Knopfler to Papa Roach—it all depends on what I’m doing.

Walter Savage

Workout routine: I train three to four times a week—heavy strength training, pushing beyond my limits of intensity. I love Dwayne Johnson’s take on training: Outside the gym, I’m a super nice and approachable guy. But if you see me while I’m training, kindly stay the eff away. I also believe strongly in the power of posture to become aware of your body. Training smart is just as important to me as training insanely hard. Personal trainer: Matthew Dantone. This guy’s a genius. He has been working with me since I started my modeling career, and I think the results speak for themselves. You won’t find me… Doing anything with bad form. Soundtrack: I don’t need music or anything else to motivate me to crush it. When I need to drown out my immediate surroundings, it’s 50 Cent. Fuel for the fire: I eat a lot. If people knew how much I actually ate, they wouldn’t believe me.

Jessica Hart

Workout routine: It’s a combination to keep me interested and motivated. I have a great personal trainer at my local Crunch gym in NYC. I also like throwing in classes like yoga and Xtend Barre. You won’t find me… Surfing! I’m a sook in the ocean and deep water. Find your balance: I believe everything in life should be in moderation. Especially when it comes to fitness and nutrition. Exercise keeps me not only physically fit but mentally strong. I find working out is sometimes exactly what I need to feel centered. Biggest obstacle: The initial getting myself to the gym is always the hardest. And finding the time to do it! Between long working days, jet lag, and wanting to spend time with family and friends, it’s important that I schedule my workouts so I don’t have excuses. Fuel for the fire: I prefer to work out in the morning, but I don’t like to eat early so I have to force something down.

B F A N Y C . C O M ( 3 ) ; g e t t y i ma g e s ( 2 ) ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R TES Y

magaschoni.com Daily Front Row Ad.indd 1

8/31/15 9:14 PM

RETAIL INTEL:

Designers to Watch We tapped the top buyers at some of the most important retail doors to find out which up-and-coming designers they have their eye onâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and what it takes to get noticed. BY PAIGE REDDINGER

Ellery

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Thomas Tait

Jonathan Simkhai

Jacquemus

Marquesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Almeida

Natalie Kingham, buying director, MATCHESFASHION.COM Designers to watch: Rosie Assoulin. She is fast collecting fans with her supremely elegant ready-to-wear, and I look forward to seeing what she does next. Other young New York brands that we love include Adam Lippes, with his American sportswear-inspired collections, and Trademark, with their minimalist silhouettes accented with strong colors and offbeat proportions. One brand we are excited to have picked up for resort ’16 is Brock Collection. We’ve been watching them for a while and love their elevated daywear. Outside of the U.S., we are still championing London-based Marques’Almeida—they have really grown their international presence over the past few seasons and extended their design vocabulary to include beautiful brocades. Others to keep your eyes on this season include Vetements, a highly creative collective of designers that have a relaxed, deconstructive aesthetic; Thomas Tait, who’s known for his minimalist, sporty approach to silhouette and cut; and young Irish designer Danielle Romeril—think innovative fabrications, intricate surface embellishments, and directional cuts. What we look for: New and interesting talent that can offer something different to the MATCHESFASHION client, but that also sits within our edit. As a buyer, I have always believed you need to act quickly and follow your gut instinct. But with young designers, you need to consider if they’re ready—for example, with production—so you don’t introduce them too early. Hopes for Spring ’16: Off-beat aristocratic glamour has been a trend, which has mainly come from the Gucci AW15 show, and has continued into Resort SS16. It could be a key trend for the season.

Sarah Rutson, vice president of global buying, NET-A-PORTER.COM Designers to watch: We’ve been excited for the past few seasons about Marques’Almeida and Jacquemus. They both fall in line with the new guard of designers, and they have an edge that new customers are coming to Net-APorter for. We also have amazing contemporary brands that don’t necessarily do runway shows that have a strong customer base. We’re seeing many of our customers on the hunt for these brands on a regular basis. What we look for: Our customer is always top of mind, so when we are considering a new brand we look at how it will deepen the breadth of our edit with a new DNA, and also how it will attract a new customer base that contributes to our seasonal edit in an impactful way. We pick up designers who can add something to our brand mix that is not derivative of something we already carry. Advice for new designers: Find your niche and make sure you do it well. I would also say know your own backyard, and by that I mean get successful in the arena you know. Too often designers want to be global, which is hard to do. As you develop your brand, it’s best to grow and build from your own market base. By doing so, it gives you time to iron out the kinks, such as manufacturing and meeting delivery deadlines. Hopes for Spring ’16: We’re always looking at what is new that will freshen our fashion voice. Our customers are always looking for newness within our edit, especially as they’re seeing everything on the runway six months in advance.

Claire Distenfeld, owner, FIVESTORY Designers to watch: Fivestory’s picks are Rosie Assoulin, Rosetta Getty, Ellery, Alison Lou, Michael Nelson, and Charles Youssef. Alexander Wang will also be exciting as it’s his 10-year anniversary and he’s definitely one to celebrate in style. What we look for: The brand has to have a specific point of view, and that point of view has to be authentic and translatable to the customer. I like my customer to wear her clothes and not the other way around. Advice for new designers: Be persistent each season. Just because a retailer says no one season, it doesn’t mean they won’t be ready for you the next. It also doesn’t mean they didn’t like it. There are a lot of factors in taking on a new brand: budgets, merchandising, etcetera. Our expectations: We like to have the brand garner awareness and excitement. For us it all starts with an emotion; whether that be on social media or in store, we like the mental journey to start the engines. Then usually the sell-throughs follow a close second. Hopes for Spring ’16: I’d love to see designers for both RTW and accessories stray from the super clean and monochromatic—take the boho trend to a more textural, more earthy, maybe even more ethnic level.

Tomoko Ogura, fashion director, BARNEYS NEW YORK Designers to watch: Designers Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar of Brock Collection quietly entered the fashion scene and are developing a focused collection that feels special with a reason for each design. We launched the collection at Barneys this fall and are excited to see how the next collection will unfold. For fall, Spencer Vladimir introduced a beautiful collection of knitwear, which is artful in feeling and artisanal in construction. When the focus is knitwear it’s always interesting to see how the designs transform into the spring season. The energy and force behind Hood by Air continues to escalate on the men’s side, and we’re intrigued to see how Shayne Oliver’s vision continues to evolve into women’s. What we look for: Designers who share their point of view and fill a void for Barneys, whether aesthetically or categorically. Advice for new designers: When starting out, designers are often vulnerable to being led astray by the varied feedback they receive from the many sides of the industry. So from the beginning, refining a point of view is crucial, whether it’s defined through design or concept. A brand is built on a capable, consistent, and unique voice. Customers are looking to connect with a brand and to maintain that connection over the long term, so the voice has to be true. Our expectations: Our strategy is to grow our overall business and to reflect the Barneys brand and our take on present-day fashion. We understand that it takes time to build a meaningful business. The expectations for a particular collection are unique to that brand and we work with them to achieve our shared goals. Hopes for Spring ’16: Our customer is looking for a reason to shop, so novelty— whether in RTW, accessories, or shoes—is key.

THE CHOSEN ONES: Rosie Assoulin, Adam Lippes, Marques’Almeida, Thomas Tait, Rosetta Getty, Kym Ellery, Charles Youssef, Alexander Wang, Shayne Oliver, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Marco de Vincenzo, Kit Neale, Mira Mikati, Scott Studenberg and John Targon of Baja East, Dao-Yi Chow, and Maxwell Osborne getty i mages ( 1 6 ) ; B f anyc . com ( 7 ) ; all others co u rtesy

Mary Chiam, vice president of merchandising and planning, MODA OPERANDI Marco de Vincenzo

Rosie Assoulin

Brock Collection

Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner, JEFFREY NEW YORK AND ATLANTA Designers to watch: Mira Mikati, Spinelli Kilcollin, Kit Neale, Marques’Almeida, and Brock Collection. We’ve started carrying—or will be carrying—all these brands, and we bought them because they seemed unlike anything else we buy. What we look for: Brands that have a point of view. We buy some of the best collections in the world, so when we add anything new to our mix, it needs to be special and different. Advice for new designers: New designers should always stay true to their DNA and not try to be all things to all people. Good sales: We love buying new collections and are willing to grow with the brand in the hope that we will sell out of product eventually. Hopes for Spring ’16: We are looking for the unexpected.

Carol Song, head women’s wear buyer, Opening Ceremony

Designers to watch: Opening Ceremony are huge supporters of emerging designers. We love to be a place of discovery. The brands we carry right now are mostly all emerging talents that we have a strong feeling will be on everyone’s radar soon. Some of the brands to note in particular are Vejas, Wales Bonner, Moses Gauntlett Cheng, and Matthew Dolan. What we look for: I call the formula the perfect storm. I look for newness and an excitement factor, and consider a brand’s commerciality and longevity, coupled with the overall quality. It’s important to have these components present and all done with a clear sense of identity. Advice for new designers: It’s invaluable to have a clear and strong voice, know your market, and have a price-point awareness. Hopes for Spring ’16: I’ll be looking for ’90s grunge dresses in plaids and ditsy prints. Also bright patent shoes and bags.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Designers to watch: From their first season, Brock Collection has ticked all the boxes of an MO favorite: Their pieces are effortlessly cool, luxurious, and wearable. This design duo has set out to masterfully update sportswear staples with cleverly conceived, impeccable design and is definitely one to watch. Marco de Vincenzo’s attention to detail and his adornment on refined silhouettes have made his evening pieces highly desirable. And his use of rainbow hues has become a signature, season after season, often in bold, block colors or an embellished trim. Either way, I’m a fan. Jacquemus has been on my watch list since his nominations with LVMH. The sharp lines and fabric patchwork design in his most recent collection provided a refreshing—and welcomed—spin on menswear suiting and modern work wear. Johanna Ortiz is an office favorite. Johanna’s background in swimwear gives her a unique perspective into design. A silk wrap that can double as a cover-up and cocktail dress—is that not what every woman wants when on holiday? As she says it best, her clothes are an invitation to have fun. What we look for: Our customers know that any designer we feature, we believe in. There are a lot of things that we need to consider. Our customers are savvy and sophisticated women, so we need to ask ourselves, Will she flip for it? We always are thinking, Will someone stop her on the street—in a good way!—when she wears that? Beyond that, our clients are looking for great quality, unique design elements, and value—not only cost but wearability. We want to be able to offer something that she cannot find anywhere else and show her something that she wants before she even knows it! Advice for new designers: Quality should never be sacrificed— in materials or design. Our customers are looking for—and appreciate—a luxury product that has impeccable design, craftsmanship, and materials. Good sales: Our designers have a great benefit from the trunkshow model. At the close of the trunk show, we provide direct customer feedback; the designers know what items are resonating with their audience and only produce what has been ordered. This insight is helpful as we build our relationship going forward. Most of our designers see growth when their collection evolves but stays consistent to their design code. Hopes for Spring ’16: Our clients are always looking for newness in the dress category—doesn’t matter the season! This past spring we saw an increase in separates on the runway for both evening and day. Our customers embraced it by buying outfits that fit a wider range of functions.

Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice president, NEIMAN MARCUS Designers to watch: New York Fashion Week is always abuzz about brands and names new to the calendar. As a CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund judge, I am particularly partial to the top-10 talents that are participating this year. The Fund is nothing short of famous for launching the careers of many American greats. This season I am paying particularly close attention to the women’s designers showing in the upcoming shows—NM veteran Jonathan Simkhai, Chromat, Baja East, Brother Vellies, and Chris Gelinas’ collection CG, with Thaddeus O’Neil and Cadet premiering women’s collections for the first time. I’m super excited about the premiere of the new DKNY by Public School talents Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. This is a don’t-miss moment in New York!

b f anyc . com ( 5 ) ; co u rtesy

It’s Fashion Week’s Hottest Ticket!

MACY’S PRESENTS

FASHION’S

FRONT

R W LIVE FROM

SEPTEMBER 17, 2015 AT 7:30PM ON THE RUNWAY: Heidi Klum by Heidi Klum, Hello Kitty, I.N.C International Concepts, Jessica Simpson, Levi’s, Ryan Seacrest Distinction, Thalia Sodi Collection, Tommy Hilfiger and others.

ON THE STAGE: NATE RUESS & JASON DERULO BENEFITING Want to see the newest Fall trends up close? Join us at Macy’s Herald Square on Thursday, September 24th for the hottest shopping party of the season — a night full of fashion, music and fun! For all the details, including ticket information for the live show, visit

MACYS.COM/FRONTROW #MacysFrontRow FOUNDING PARTNER:

WATCH IT ON SEPTEMBER 23 8|7 8|7c

SUPPORTING PARTNERS:

CELEBRATING:

Love Co

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

n o i t c e nn

Marc Jacobs and Katie Grand are among the fashion world’s most intriguing collaborators. The Daily sat down with the duo at Jacobs’ Soho studio to get to the heart of the matter. BY EDDIE ROCHE First things first: Where and when did you two meet? Katie Grand: At Hôtel Costes [in Paris] in 2001; there was a small dinner for Vuitton, which we didn’t realize. A load of us showed up—my friends Giles Deacon, Charlotte Stockdale, Peter Copping. I can’t remember how the conversation started. A couple of years later, I started working on the men’s show at Vuitton and the advertising with Mert and Marcus. Why do you think your dynamic works so well? Katie: We have the same size feet. Marc Jacobs: And we wear the same size clothes, so we swap outfits and can wear the same clothes from Prada. We both love Miuccia, we both love Miss Piggy, we have similar tastes in music, and we find a lot of the same people amusing and entertaining. Katie: This process in the design studio is very intense, and the hours are long. There’s not much sleep, and if you don’t get on with the people you work with, it’s torture. Thoughts on Miss Piggy and Kermit breaking up? Marc: I’m not too bothered by it, as long as they’re both happy and healthy. Relationships come to an end. Katie: Hopefully, there will be some brand-new Muppet characters. Kermit could have traded her in for a younger model. Katie, your title is creative director at Marc Jacobs. What does that mean, exactly? Katie: I’m here to help the situation. If Marc’s got a question, he can ask me, wherever we are in the world. If other people in the team need some direction or questions answered, I’m here. Marc: Katie is involved in every aspect of communication in some way. She comes up with concepts for ads, she works with me on the concepts for the shows, she’s involved with as much as possible in the creative output here. The word “director” always feels like something very finite and rigid, but everyone is a contributor in different ways and degrees. If she’s not available to work on a shoot, I’ll ask her to recommend someone to style the shoot. When she can’t be here physically, she’s indirectly involved by giving her opinions. I don’t think of myself as a director or the boss. I’m ultimately a contributor who has to make the final decisions, like the edit for a show. I don’t do it alone. I come to the conclusion with the help of Katie and everybody who has done the work. Do you ever disagree? Marc: We do. Katie: It will always be about something silly. When you get tired, you get snappy. Marc: I apologize, and Katie says she’s not bothered by it. Sometimes they tease me about the calendar—they say I always kind of lose it on Monday, I’m okay on Wednesday, and then on Thursday, I come in like a hurricane. What have been your most memorable experiences working together? Katie: You remember the silly things, like the Josephine Baker Vuitton show. It was the first time that Marc got a karaoke machine, and it was nonstop show tunes for two and a half weeks. The Daniel Buren Spring 2013 collection show, which was choreographed so perfectly. It was just so beautiful, and it was the only time I ever cried at a show. Marc: I remember I asked Katie if it was okay, and she said, “I’ve never seen anything like it!” Katie: It’s a collage of moments—the Victorian beach show at the Armory, where it was 100 degrees in the building. It was like a furnace. It was intense backstage, but it looked so good. I’m genuinely pretty optimistic about things. [Putting on a show] is a bit like twisting your ankle—you don’t remember the pain. Marc: Though we do remember the moments where people fell through roofs. Do you look back on anything with regret? Katie: It’s fashion, so your opinion changes every season. Some seasons we’ve worked on where at the moment, I think it’s boring or wrong or the color palette is grotesque in a bad way, but then the next season you see it as grotesque in a good way. Marc: It’s relative. I often watch a show afterward and if it’s gone well, I feel good about it and then over the next couple of days, I have this postpartum depression and see all the flaws. They become more and more elaborate in my mind. Other people might not be aware of them, but they ruin the whole thing for me. I’ve watched last season’s show and even weeks later, I couldn’t find anything wrong with it. That’s very, very rare. You also know that you can’t repeat that. Last season went off quite flawlessly—there wasn’t a button unbuttoned or a shoelace untied, nobody was tripping, the girls were so perfect. Katie: But you don’t know what went on backstage, which was that none of the outfits arrived in outfits. Bags and belts were missing. I ended up dressing every girl myself, because the dresser notes arrived late. It was a succession of tiny mistakes. When you’ve got a girl standing there in a G-string saying, “What am I wearing?” and you think, “F**king hell, I can’t actually remember!” g e t t y i m a g e s ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m

Marc: It was chaos backstage. Katie: Usually there’s a dress that’s still being sewn while the girls are lined up. You have to keep the model calm. You can’t have her cry because her makeup will run. You try to make a joke of it, but secretly think, is she gonna get an outfit this time? It’s all very theatrical. Did you ever work in costume design, Katie? Katie: No, but I did used to act. I don’t know if Marc even knows that. I was on the stage in Birmingham, England. I played the daughter in Mary Poppins, and I was in Dick Whittington once. Marc: I didn’t know that. Any videos? Katie: No. I was 10 or 11 and couldn’t sing at all, and it was terribly embarrassing. What about you, Marc? Marc: I was in school productions, and my sleepaway camp productions of Yellow Submarine, South Pacific, and Hello, Dolly. Camp in every sense! Would you ever do costume design for a Broadway show? Marc: I would never say never, but it’s not something I ever dreamed of doing. I like doing what we do. I like making up our own play and characters. I did costumes for a ballet once, which was a very trying experience. I was excited by it and put a lot of effort into it. I’m not a control freak, but somehow it was quite frustrating, not being involved in the set or the choice of dancers and all that stuff. How often are you in Paris these days? Marc: I spend in total about four months of the year there. I have a house and office there. What’s it like being responsible for only one show a season? Marc: It’s twice as much work. Doing Vuitton and Marc Jacobs was very exhausting because of the back and forth, but now I’m much more involved in all aspects of this business. Ninety percent of the time I give more than 100 percent of my time and attention to what I’m focusing on, whether that’s fragrance or beauty or the clothes or the shoes or the bags. I’m trying so hard—we all are—to see how we combine Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc. I didn’t play such an active part in the Marc by Marc thing, and now that it’s being incorporated into the collection, I’m much more active in looking at all the details, from the labels to the product to what we’re making. It’s been much more work, honestly. Is the cost going down? Marc: No. We’ll never get it 100 percent right or close to perfect this season, but the idea is to have a wider range of prices. We’ll have the kinds of dresses that we’ve always had, but offer T-shirts and jeans, too. It’s not just about a range of prices—it’s taking one idea in a season and finding its authenticity in an evening FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

gown that’s embroidered by Lesage or T-shirts that are embellished with a few trinkets. I’ve always liked the high and low thing. I love wearing a Prada fur coat over Adidas track pants and a Fruit of the Loom tank top and a pair of jazzy trainers. We’ll see how it plays out. Should we expect to see T-shirts on the runway? Marc: I don’t know yet. I like to think that even though things are fixed, something spontaneous happens when we start fitting the girls. There’s room for putting a T-shirt with a very expensive skirt if that’s what we feel like. Certain girls inspire you to do that. Katie: It’s generally Hanne Gaby Odiele. We work with Jamie Bochert all the time, and she brings a lot of that, too. She pretty much looks cool in everything. Marc: If you put it on the wrong girl where it isn’t believable, it looks sort of hokey. What are you going to do about the stores on Bleecker Street? Marc: As far as I know, everything is going to stay. I don’t have a master plan. There’s no rigid discussion about what each thing will be. We’re considering the possibilities, and then we’ll see. Do you miss anything about the old Bleecker Street? Marc: Why would I miss it? Because it’s very different than it was 15 years ago. Katie: The whole of New York is. We’ve been talking about this a lot. Marc: I grew up here, and I’m very nostalgic about the old New York. I don’t see very much of New York that I know. I’ve had this conversation with Katie, Kim Hastreiter, Anna Sui, Steven Meisel, and many other people. We were down on Orchard Street months ago, and it just didn’t feel like there was anything left of that whole neighborhood. There’s not much about New York that looks like it used to. Walking [my dog] Neville on the High Line, the dogs aren’t allowed on the grass. I remember when there were trannies and drag queens and all the houses along the Pier. It’s just not there anymore. It’s not gritty or grimy or edgy or interesting. It’s very gentrified; everything’s very “keep off the grass” and clean. I remember when you’d go to Jackie 60 and smell the blood from the slaughterhouses and there were all those after-hours places. To answer your question, Bleecker Street, like every other street, is completely different. Would you ever leave New York? Marc: I don’t have any plans. I always feel lucky that I have Paris. I love that I get to go back and forth, and I appreciate New York so much more when I come back from Paris. When I leave New York, I’m quite happy to have that little break. New York can be very full-on. Even though it’s changed, it still feels like there’s so much to do here, even when you don’t actually do it. Cher is in your Fall campaign and on the cover of Katie’s magazine, LOVE. Marc: She hasn’t been on the cover of a magazine in ages, right? Katie: I always went through phases of asking [Cher’s team], and it was one of those things where they said no, no discussion. We’d always ask. How did Cher enter your orbit? Marc: I’ve wanted to do something with Cher for ages. [Marc Jacobs publicist] Michael Ariano reached out to her this year, and she said yes. She agreed to be in the ads and accepted the invite to the Met Ball, and Katie talked to her about doing LOVE, and she was quite up for it. She was terrific. Were you nervous that it wouldn’t come together? Marc: We didn’t want to talk about it until it happened. There was a lot of back and forth. She needed to feel comfortable. Before we worked with Cher, we worked with Jessica Lange, who had never agreed to do a beauty campaign. As the time came closer, she wanted to make sure she had approval of the picture. Cher was very enthusiastic when she said yes. It was better not to count your chickens before they were hatched, because even though it would be disappointing, you knew that at some moment, it could fall apart. Katie: There were no diva requirements. Marc: It’s a long time since Cher was a fashion model for Diana Vreeland. When she’s onstage, it’s the Cher show, when you’re in a studio with a photographer doing an ad, which you haven’t done for a long time, people need their sense of security. It wasn’t a diva thing, it’s about being outside of that zone where you are most comfortable. What kind of music does Cher listen to on set? Does she listen to Cher? Marc: No, she does not. Katie: David Sims tends to play David Bowie, which was hilarious when we photographed Iman. He didn’t notice, and then was mortified, but she loved it. Marc, you’re quite the Instagrammer. Marc: I love it! I was so against it. It happened during this whole Vreeland lovefest last season with her whims about being into something and then the ALL P H OTOS c o u r t e s y

R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G . C O M @ R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G

following day, being completely over it. I was so adamant and outspoken about how people were antisocial because of social media. We were losing live experience. I was just dumbfounded and disappointed with how people were attached to their devices and not really looking at each other or spending time with each other physically. Then one morning during our last show, I thought, well, I’m going to embrace Instagram now. Then I got really into it. Why? Marc: We live in a world where visual stimulation seems to be, without question, the way people communicate. Privacy used to be important to people, but this is completely the opposite. I’ve written very long captions on Instagram and thought about them long and hard, but all the writing didn’t matter—people just responded to the image. They were moved by what they saw visually, and that’s very telling. People get pleasure by what stimulates them visually. Do you feel like you’ve given up your privacy by being on Instagram? Marc: I’ve never been a very private person. In fact, I’m probably the opposite. You can ask me anything and I’ll tell you. It’s not like I value my privacy. Who do you follow? Marc: Richard Habberley, Michel Gaubert, John Maybury, Bianca Del Rio; I like following a lot of the drag queens from RuPaul’s Drag Race. Then there are people you just meet. I have terrible insomnia, so sometimes I wake up in the middle of the night and can’t fall asleep and I randomly comment to someone I don’t know. Last night, I was tagged in a picture of me and Lil’ Kim, so I regrammed it. The person was so grateful, but that opened up a whole dialogue of Lil Kim fans. People were fighting over Kim and Beyoncé, writing who they thought the Queen B was. I was so delighted and amused that I had created such a buzz! Your gorgeous dog, Neville, is a huge Insta star now. Marc: His Instagram is off the chain. He doesn’t really talk to me anymore! That’s really [my assistant] Nick Newbold, who is the genius behind Neville’s Instagram. He has a good time with it. Dogs, selfies, and food are extremely popular on Instagram. And shirtless guys… Marc: And girls with huge butts! What did you do this summer? Marc: I was on my roof a couple of times, but I’ve mostly been in the office. I don’t post too many pics from the office. Katie: I went rock climbing. I quite like hanging off cliffs. It takes your mind off. I didn’t have a wild summer. I just got a dog. Does your dog have an Instagram account? Katie: Yeah. It’s a little sad. It was my rabbit’s account and then it became the new rabbit’s account, but that rabbit is in quite a lot of trouble, so I thought it was good to move it on to the dog. How do you two communicate? Marc: Texts, pictures, or just talk. I’m very bad at communicating by telephone. I don’t feel like I’m making any sense, but in a text, I can put order into what I have to say or ask. A picture can be very clear. I get kind of choked up on the phone or feel like I haven’t made any sense. Katie: The other day we were talking hair and makeup, and we literally sent the same reference back to each other. Out of all the images in the world. Marc, how is Katie’s sense of humor? Marc: She’s got a great sense of humor. She likes to laugh at things and be amused. She likes LOLZ. It’s not held back; it comes when it comes. She has genuine amusement that’s very spontaneous. Katie: Maybe I’m wrong, but I always think of Marc as being quite European. He understands the English sense of humor very well. Historically, there have always been quite a lot of English people in the studio. He understands sarcasm and irony. I don’t often think of that as an American trait. Marc: It’s not. It’s more of a New York thing. I used to watch all these British sitcoms, like Fawlty Towers and Are You Being Served? Only five percent of New York got that British humor. Katie: I was just thinking about Karlie, the unicorn. What’s that? Katie: Karlie Kloss had come in for a fitting years ago, and she was gorgeous and charming and very tall. For some reason Marc just pulled up [the YouTube clip] Charlie the Unicorn, which we watched incessantly that season and for us, it was Karlie, the unicorn. I’m sure most people we know wouldn’t find it that funny, but it amused us for about two weeks. Marc: It’s very big for people who smoke pot, which I don’t. It’s an absolutely ridiculous little cartoon that’s very naively done, but I’ve watched it 200 times and I laugh so hard, I cry. Where do you get your news from? Do you Google yourself? Marc: I don’t. I look at Instagram. I receive news through other people. I’ve never watched the news. I live in a little bit of a bubble. Whatever is going on is what I need to deal with. Do you read any fashion websites? Marc: No. Unless something comes up that I’m interested in. I used to read Women’s Wear Daily when it was in the newspaper form because it was on my desk every morning, but now that it’s not in a newspaper, unless it’s printed out, I don’t look at it as much. We hear you read The Daily during Fashion Week. Marc: That’s always around. Can’t wait to see the show! Katie: Us too!

EXCLUSIVE: NEVILLE JACOBS SPEAKS!

“

I was just dumbfounded and disappointed with how people were attached to their devices and not really looking at each other or spending time with each other physically.” —Marc Jacobs

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

How are you staying humble as an Instagram superstar? Next question. Do you get recognized on the street now? Quite a bit. I think it’s mostly because people can see my nose from a block away. I’m also rarely without my bro, the French bulldog, Charlie, so it’s hard to hide. No real paparazzi moments, thankfully. How do you decide what kind of pictures to post of yourself? It depends on my mood. I don’t overthink it, to be honest. I post whatever I want, whenever I feel like it. Do you check in to see how many likes you get after posting a picture? Anyone who says they don’t is full of it. Of course I do! I love my likes! Which models do you crush on? Well, my No. 1 is Christy Turlington and, of course, her two Boston terriers, Mickey and Fitz. She’s known me since I was just a pup and has always been so sweet. Is modeling something you’d consider doing professionally? Eh. I enjoy being the face of my dad’s Bookmarc campaigns, but I wouldn’t pigeonhole myself as a model when I’m also an actor, adjunct in-office therapy dog, and aspiring author.

getty images; courtesy

NATORI.COM

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

My dog knows me better than anybody. I love animals more than people, really.â&#x20AC;?

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

A Foot Ahead

Following Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, and Karl Lagerfeld, legendary cobbler Manolo Blahnik is being honored with FIT’s 2015 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion this week. Ring, ring! BY EDDIE ROCHE Hello, Mr. Blahnik. Where are you right now? I’m on the coast of Africa, but don’t worry! I’m coming to New York. How do you feel about the honor? It’s a great privilege. Do I deserve this? Do I deserve anything? I just do what I love to do. On top of that, they give me awards! I don’t know! Sometimes I don’t think I deserve it. Stop that! Have you thought about your speech? I haven’t. Maybe I’ll read lines of someone. I’m a very spontaneous person. Maybe I’ll write it the night before. You have a book coming out in this month, Manolo Blahnik: Fleeting Gestures and Obsessions. What’s it about? Very simply, it’s about the people who have always been there for me. People who I grew up with and loved in my youth. There are people that I wrote about—most of them are dead—who really influenced me as inspiration, or something about them made me click. Who’s included? Gore Vidal, whom I love. He’s not here anymore, but I love him and his work. Marie Antoinette, Cecil Beaton, the works of Goya and Velázquez. Were you friends with Gore Vidal? I wouldn’t call us friends, but I met him five times in my life, and he was a very charming man and very caustic. Very nasty sometimes, and I loved that. His sense of humor was very American. He’s one of the people I really loved. I once had Gore Vidal snap at me for calling him too early in the morning, which was an honor. [Laughs] The last time I saw him was when he talked in London and people were asking him nonsense about Obama. He was not interested in that at all. He still had that nasty thing in his eyes—a kind of irony. I was really conquered by it. Diana Vreeland is mentioned in the book. Of course. Oh, my God. She’s more than a legend. I was born seeing pages of Ms. Vreeland’s in Harper’s Bazaar and, later, Vogue. I got to meet her and she advised me to do shoes, and here we are. The book is about people who were paramount in my life. Women whom I adore. Are you surprised the younger generation is still smitten with Diana Vreeland? No! She’ll be remembered by millions forever, for life. She’s never going to go away. Some people you don’t hear about anymore, some people disappear. Ms. Vreeland was beyond. I give lectures, and people always ask about what she was like. That’s not going to disappear for at least 100 years. Anna Wintour is also a huge fan of yours. It’s a great honor! Are you kidding me? You seem to have a great sense of humor. Everything makes me laugh! Even stupid words makes me laugh. Do you tell jokes? I don’t know how to tell a joke! I’m not even good at telling funny stories. You’re very humble for a man of your stature. I was born like that. I cannot change. I’m simple. I hate when people say, “You’ve got an award! How wonderful!” I’m grateful, but I’m humble, yes. How do you define a divine shoe? I don’t know which one is my favorite type of shoe, but what I love to do is richness. I love to have the best velvet, silk. I’m totally out of touch now with what people like or do not like. I do what I do and that’s it. I like to

do opulence. Any idea how many pairs of shoes you’ve created over the years? If you believe the lady from the archives, I think I have made about 20,000. 20,000? Or more…maybe more like 37,000. Have you ever been able to try them on yourself? Uh, no. I used to wear them at the beginning of my career because they were size 40, but now that the normal size is 37, I can’t wear them anymore. Do you follow pop culture? Sometimes, when I’m interested. I used to go to the concerts. Can you imagine? At my age! Going to the concerts! I went to see that naughty and lovely girl who died, Amy Winehouse. I don’t like the new singers. I stopped being impressed by Madonna. What did Sex and the City mean to your brand? It feels like a prehistoric thing now, but it was very exciting at that moment. It made me known in America. What’s new with the brand? We’re trying to launch a line of bags. I always did one or two a year, but I’m going to do a small collection. I don’t want it to be big, but I want it to be accessible to youngsters. What would you be doing if you weren’t designing? I would be happy as long as I was healthy. I would do anything with stones, sculptures, and houses. I would be doing that seriously. For a moment when I was 19, I wanted to do that, but “they” derailed me! What are you doing on the coast of Africa? My mother had a property that she left to us, and I’m here with my dog, a divine and wonderful Labrador named Romolo. He was named after the great comedian in Italy. It’s not very glamorous, but I adored him. He was so fabulous. My dog knows me better than anybody. I love animals more than people, really. Why? The dedication. They don’t ask you anything at all. They only want attention and love. How do you want to be remembered? I have had so many ups in my career, and I’ve met so many wonderful women and people. My career has always been okay. The thing I loved the most was when I was with Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, who introduced me for an honor [at the CFDA Awards in 1998]. Can you imagine? I was really neurotic and somebody tapped my back and said, “Hello, my dear!” and it was Elizabeth Taylor. Did you know Elizabeth Taylor? Of course! You never know. Young people don’t even know who Julie Christie is! What did she say to you? Ms. Taylor said, “Don’t be afraid! Don’t be nervous! They’re just people!” It was divine. A milestone. I’ll always remember that day. You’re a true legend yourself! Oh, please. Maybe you say so. That’s very kind of you. all images courtesy

Mods To Know!

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got our eyes peeled for this crop of stunners walking the runway this season.

Sasha Luss Women Management

Vanessa Moody Women Management

Josephine le Tutour The Society

Molly Bair The Society

Vittoria Ceretti The Society

Larissa Marchiori The Society

Betty Adewole IMG Models

Amanda Murphy IMG Models

Lexi Boling IMG Models

Antonina Petkovic The Society

Fei Fei Sun Women Management

Irina Sharipova Women Management

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Sophia Ahrens DNA Models

Marland Backus New York Models

Pooja Mor Elite Maartje Verhoef Women Management

Annika Krijt The Society

Taylor Hill IMG Models

Kendall Jenner The Society

Lineisy Montero Next Models Eva Berzina Women Management

Tiana Tolstoi Trump Managment

Tami Williams Elite

Anna Cleveland Next Models

Luping Wang Wilhelmina

Karly Loyce Women Management

Romee Strijd DNA Models Tessa Bruinsma Next Milan

Anna Ewers Women Management

Lia Pavlova One Management

ment

firstview ( 2 3) ; getty images ( 7 )

Benson’s

Beauties Looking to make a leap into the modeling world? IMG manager Lisa Benson is a lesson in the art of persistence. By shepherding several aspiring models into stardom, she’s become a luminary in her own right. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

What was your first job in the business? I was a receptionist at IMG. I have a sports background—I played golf for Penn State. My dad was a big golfer, too. Arnold Palmer, who started IMG, was a family friend, and when he and my dad were playing golf one day, Arnold suggested that I get a job at IMG. I thought it was only a big sports company, but then I learned about the fashion division. I had an informational interview with [senior VP Chrissie’s TV manager, and there are also publicists. You can’t do it all yourself. I and managing director] Ivan Bart. There wasn’t a position available at the time, do love a celebrity model. I just signed this new girl Daniela Lopez from Colombia, but after I met Ivan, I knew I had to work for him. who is going to be a superstar. What was the next step? Are you on call all the time? I ended up calling Ivan every day. I wanted to be…whatever, the janitor! I was Yes, but everyone is very respectful. You have to understand talent and what persistent and would always call back. I finally got a job answering phones to they are going through. Once you get past, “It’s 8 p.m., why are they calling me?” get my foot in the door, and I learned so much. The switchboard was hard work. you think about being in their shoes. They’re shooting tomorrow and might have Always be nice to the receptionist! I remember I’d answer my own cell phone at just gotten off a flight from China, and they’re jet-lagged. I also have an amazing night and say, “IMG! Oh, God! It’s Lisa!” Everyone should work up from the bottom, assistant, Sean Lamm, who is very calm. You need an assistant you can trust to especially in the fashion industry. handle situations like missed flights and other issues. Did you get nervous when anybody called? You’re a very nice person. How are you when you need to play hard in a deal? When Gisele or Heidi Klum would call, I thought, This is so cool! Then there was There’s a little fire in me! [Laughs] I’m very positive and optimistic, but my job the embarrassing time when Gilles Bensimon called. I didn’t know who he was, is to protect my client. It’s a hard balance, because you want to work with the and I spelled his name as “Zeal.” Ivan said, “That’s Gilles!” And now I’m working customer, too. You want to make everyone happy, but you have to be tough with him! sometimes. Business is business. I care about what I do, and I care about both You eventually moved up to become Ivan’s assistant. What’d you learn from him? sides of the deal. Ivan has such a love for this industry. He’s still pushing for that new face. I learned What drives you? passion from him, as well as how to talk to clients. There are so many different I always like to choose the road less traveled. That’s an exciting challenge. Who personalities, and now that I have my own clients, I’ve learned how to adapt to am I going to convince today to make a breakout star? The first years of my each person. Ivan’s a ball of energy and thinks outside the box. career, I didn’t know, but then I started to see it and…wow! It’s working and you Who are you working with now? want to keep doing that! I also love meeting new talent. One girl wants to do We work as a team, and on a day-to-day basis, I manage Chanel Iman, Nadine Sports Illustrated, another one wants to be in Givenchy, and another wants to be Leopold, Emily DiDonato, Kelly Rohrbach, Tori Praver, and Lily Aldridge. Lily was in an Ang Lee film. my first client; she came to us through Carolyn Murphy. When I became a junior What’s the hardest part of your job? agent, they thought Lily was a great girl for Juggling. Everyone wants to feel they are me. We grew up in the industry together. Elsa the most important client—and everyone Hosk was another one of my first models. has the right to feel that way! There’s a lot of You’ve also been instrumental in Chrissy multitasking, because you have to be on the ball Teigen’s success. all the time. I loved her from the moment she walked Have you ever had to drop a client? in. She was so witty. I didn’t know what we I have. I have such close relationships with most were going to do with her, but we were going of my clients, so it’s never a fun meeting. I’m to figure it out. We struggled before all the still friends with some of them, but I always say success. that you get this one chance, so I always try Which kind of girls excite you? Chanel Iman to groom them and tell them to stay focused. Girls with personality! If you love life and are Be levelheaded, because you can be the next passionate about what you do, you want to Lauren Hutton or Carolyn Murphy. make the connections and take it to the next What would 10-year-old Lisa Benson think of Chrissy Teigen level. You need to be in it to win it. If you this career? want to be a Miranda Kerr or a Lily Aldridge, I always loved fashion and the glamorous side you take the right meetings, take people to Lily Aldridge of things. Who doesn’t want to go to a fashion lunch…there’s always a plan. The girls are show or be inside Fashion Week? When I was Nadine Leopold really serious about it. They have goals and growing up, models were the celebrities. Funny expectations, and they trust us. Act like a enough, when I started working here, the businesswoman—this is your job. celebrities started getting the covers, but now, Is it safe to say that grooming celebrity it’s moving back to models. My dream was models is where you thrive? to live in New York City and work in fashion. Yes. There’s a lot of work, because you That sounds so cheesy, but I’m doing what Elsa Hosk have to play as part of a team. I work with I wanted to do! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

g etty i m a g e s ( 4 ) ; p at r ic k m c m u llan . c o m

Opening Soon

Flagship Store Private Club Residences CafĂŠ Barber Shop Hair Salon

The Domenico Vacca 55th and Fifth Avenue New York, NY

domenicovacca.com domenicovaccaclub.com

doenico_vacca_9_03_15B.indd 1

9/3/15 8:10 PM

The Wizards of Oz They’ve let the work speak for itself, but in a rare interview, Models.com’s editor in chief and creative director Stephan Moskovic and managing editor Betty Sze invited The Daily into their Chelsea headquarters to unearth how they’ve put together the modeling industry’s most trusted resource. Well, how did they do it? BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

most important criteria, and to a lesser extent shows, overall editorial presence, and lookbooks. Editorial support from the leading magazines, stylists, and photographers is very important. Today, the market has become so diverse, so we’ve launched several different rankings to correspond to that. There has been a big push for diversity by Bethann Hardison and the CFDA, the advent of transgender models, the arrival of social media stars and celebrities, and the wider acceptance of various body types and the first models with disabilities. Betty: Social media ranking is based on their numbers. Kendall Jenner has 57 million followers when you combine all her social media platforms. You can’t dispute the figures. Do you talk through all of this in meetings? Stephan: Usually the first step is that we buy doughnuts for everyone at the office. [Laughs] We review the rankings in meetings, but rankings are voted on by a board internally, and then we always check with the agents, as we might not always be aware of something that’s been shot that’s about to come out. We are respectful of the impact the rankings can have on everyone involved, including the models and agents. Our goal is to help highlight the best the industry has to give. Should agents befriend you? The Models.com team: (from left) Betty: It’s better if they don’t. Some agents call all the time, and others call when Andrea Wajnberg, Mitch Ryan, Betty it’s something really special. If someone calls me and says, “This girl is going to Sze, Stephan Moskovic, Irene Ojobe huge,” I listen. I’m friendly with agents, but I don’t hang out with them. There’s a Felix, and Steven Yatsko line. People think we’re in bed with them, but that’s not how it is. I was an agent at Marilyn Gauthier and Company Management once, and objectivity is important. Models.com feels like the Oz of fashion sites. How has the industry changed since your launch? Stephan Moskovic: True. We’ve always stayed behind the scenes. We’re not Stephan: There is no such thing as a typical model anymore. Social media super active on the party scene. We’re active on the creative side. We love what changed everything. There are more opportunities for different types of models we do, so we’re not looking to be gigantic. today. Betty Sze: There are people in fashion who are famous for being famous, and Do successful models need big personalities? we’re not like that. Betty: Absolutely. They always did, but even more so now, due to social media. Have you done a lot of press in the past? Can we discuss numbers? Stephan: Very rarely. Once in a while, we give a few quotes to The Wall Street Stephan: It goes up and down, but we’ve gotten 2 million unique clicks a month. Journal and The New York Times, but we turn down a lot. It takes so much time. Our average is 1.5 million. It slows down in the summer, but overall, it’s been We don’t do this for the ego. growing. Betty: We like to lay low [starts fanning herself]. How do you make money? Are you okay? Stephan: It’s mostly trade advertising—listings for models, makeup reps, and Betty: It’s called menopause! photo agencies. Think of it as a directory listing, but it has no influence on Ha. How do you put the site together? placement and rankings. Stephan: There are now 12 of us on the team in Australia and New York. The Why no ads? site started as a who’s who of modeling, with rankings. When we relaunched in Stephan: I hate advertisements on the site. We’re in service to the industry; we’re 2008, we added a comprehensive database of the industry, which ties everything not a consumer site. We have almost consumer-level visibility and traffic, but that together. When you look at a campaign, you can see all the credits behind it. Many gives us a lot of freedom. We don’t have to have a lot of banner ads all over the people in the industry have profiles in the database, but it’s by invite only—you place. That would ruin the experience. need to have worked with established clients before you’re listed. Photographers, Betty: Integrity is really important to us. Would a tampon ad work for us? No. We publicists, editors, and agents post their own content, so there’s a constant flow, tested it! which we highlight with our own editorial content. Stephan: We had an ad network and the first thing that popped up was a Cialis Which stories are top performers? commercial. We’ve worked creatively with brands and propose something Stephan: We’re still known for the rankings, and the cover stories/ unique that can only be done on Models.com and have an impact for MDX section was launched a few years ago and has blown up. Our them. A traditional ad buy that reaches the biggest number of clicks, original content has become a powerful platform for creatives there’s better venues for that, and I think that’s perfectly fine. to showcase their talent without commercial restrictions. The Who are your favorite models of all time? database is huge, with 11,500 people listed. It’s such a resource in Stephan: Kate Moss, for sure. I’ve always loved Naomi Campbell, the industry. We give credits to everyone from makeup artists to Helena Christensen, and Carolyn Murphy. manicurists to set designers. They appreciate the visibility, and a Betty: I’m old-school—Talisa Soto, Yasmeen Ghauri, Renee lot of people get jobs because of their profiles. Simonsen, Lauren Hutton, Naomi Campbell, Malgosia Bela, Raquel How are the rankings determined? Zimmerman, and Kristen McMenamy. A few top faves (from left): Stephan: We use our database as our main resource. It’s a mixture What’s your impact? Kristen McMenamy, Naomi of what’s in the database, because it’s a great way to track Stephan: We have demystified the industry. In our geeky and Campbell, and Raquel across the board. In the order of importance, we weigh major organized way, we’re making it more accessible. Zimmerman magazines’ covers, including Vogue’s and Harper’s Bazaar’s Do you consider yourself geeks? top international editions, LOVE, i-D, etc., a lot more than other Stephan: Definitely. That’s why we get along. magazines’, and campaigns from major brands as the two Betty: Geekdom is having a moment! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

B FA N YC . C O M ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ; F I R S T V I E W

INSTALLATIONS TALKS PARTIES BOOK SIGNINGS LIVE STREAMS APPEARANCES INTRODUCING

THE HUB FOR ALL THINGS FASHION WEEK TO SEE THE CALENDAR OF EVENTS VISIT NYFW.COM OR DOWNLOAD THE NYFW APP 451 WEST 14TH STREET BETWEEN 9TH AND 10TH AVE

TheDaily_IMG_Final_091015.indd 1

8/31/15 1:30 PM

Who’s That Girl?

IMG Models has no shortage of babes on their roster, but they’ve tipped us off to their most recent discovery, Hannah Ferguson. This down-to-earth Texan will make her exclusive runway debut this season. Remember this name! BY EDDIE ROCHE

“

The boys were a little afraid to come around!”

Which Texan town do you call home? San Angelo, which is a small town in the center of Texas on the map. There’s not much around. It’s farmland, oil fields, not many people have heard of it, but I’m proud to be from there. People in small towns and groups in the country can appreciate the little things in life. It’s a different outlook. I appreciate nature, animals, and being outside. I love the city, but I’m not a city girl. Is it true you can feed chickens and herd goats? [Laughs] I can! I’ve had chickens, turkeys, dogs, a horse, a duck, geese. We had a lot on our farm. Cute. You were discovered in a modeling contest. It was in Dallas after I graduated high school. I really wanted to try to get into modeling for a model search. I ended up winning and moved to Dallas by myself for six months. My agency then sent me to New York. How closely did you follow the modeling industry growing up? I lived a very sheltered life, so I didn’t really have Internet, Facebook, or Twitter. I didn’t follow many fashion magazines, with the exception of W and Vogue. I didn’t know anything about the industry. I knew who Gisele was—she was one of my favorites— and I loved the Victoria’s Secret models, like Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio. I also really liked Ana Beatriz Barros. You didn’t have Internet? Not really. We had a TV, which had a few channels with bunny ears. We weren’t into electronics or video games or computers. Sometimes we’d go to the library and get a book and use the computer if we needed to. That’s very old-fashioned. Exactly! My parents met in the Marine Corps. My mom was a drill instructor, and my dad trained to be a sniper. They both met on a shooting range. They are separated now, but my mom continues to be a stay-at-home mom. My dad is nearby, so we see him all the time. He makes handmade knives. Was your mom very strict? Both of my parents were. I can’t say that I made my bed every morning, but we definitely had a routine every morning where we’d get up and feed the animals, do chores. The boys were a little afraid to come around! Did you ever consider going into the military? The idea crossed my mind because my parents had done it, but it wasn’t something I wanted to do. I wondered what it would be like, but I had no interest. You’ve been shot for the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue in a bikini. Are you comfortable in your own body? When I’m in front of the camera, I let loose. I’m totally comfortable. Every girl has things about them that they want to improve or fix. I have to stay in shape as much as possible and have fun. My parents were strict, but they are super proud of me. They don’t see anything wrong with me being in front of the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

camera in a bathing suit. They are behind me 100 percent. What drives you crazy about New York City? The people aren’t very friendly. Where I grew up people were super friendly. They’d say good morning, but they weren’t creepers or weirdos. They might not be as polite or apologize if they smash into you, but I’ve gotten used to it. GQ called you the “next big American bombshell!” No pressure there… That was awesome! It’s a great feeling, to be honest. People read that magazine and are more likely to look out for you. What photographers do you want to work with? Definitely Steven Meisel, Mario Testino, and Patrick Demarchelier. Who’s the hunky guy named Connor all over your Instagram page? Con is my man! He’s my boyfriend. I met him in Miami during a Sports Illustrated event. It was quite a moment. I remember seeing him across the way and he took my breath away. What are your goals in the industry? I have a lot at the moment! The cover of Sports Illustrated is goal No. 1. Shooting for Victoria’s Secret would also be amazing. I’m trying to get my foot in the door there. It would be huge. Every girl wants to shoot for them. When you’re asked to walk in that show, you’ve made it. I’m crossing my fingers. P A T R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ; in s e t : court e s y

STARR POWER Before we encountered the infectious laugh and divine hair, we weren’t sure what to expect of casting director extraordinaire Jennifer Starr. Could this industry vet, adored by Avedon, Weber, and Meisel, live up to the hype? BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

Were you passionate about fashion as a kid? Not at all! I read Life and Time, not fashion magazines. I was interested in war photography—more reality than fantasy. Through many circumstances, I ended up working for Bruce Weber when I was 17. I was in awe of Bruce—he creates this fantasy and family, and I immediately felt like a part of it. How did Bruce impact your career? He was so generous, and introduced me to Calvin Klein at a party and told him that I should do his casting. I then developed a relationship working with Calvin, which was wonderful. The ball never stopped rolling. I worked with Richard Avedon next. How did that come about? I had taken some time off and gone to Costa Rica on a surfing trip. I had plans to stay a while, but I checked my messages back home—this was long before cell phones— and there was a message from Avedon’s agent, asking if I’d come meet him. I was on the next plane back. Were you nervous about the meeting? When I was 26 years old, I had more confidence than women my age now! But I was nervous—he photographed everyone from Audrey Hepburn to Marilyn Monroe, and I was a huge fan. In person, he was a larger-than-life figure. He walked into a room with such charisma and energy. He wore jeans and a button-up and had amazing hair. I had a crush on him. What’s one of your best memories with him? After we finished one big job, he took all of us to the Rainbow Room for a wrap dinner. I wasn’t a fan of caviar, but I didn’t feel I could express that, so I was burying my caviar in my potato under sour cream. Then he asked me to dance. He taught me how to waltz. I don’t think it gets better than learning how to dance from Richard Avedon. No kidding. Why did these major photographers trust you to cast for them? I don’t know the answer to that question, and I don’t think I’ll ever know. Maybe there was nobody at the time doing what I did? I tried to understand what someone was looking for; I often found people off the street. I knew Bruce liked strong noses and a free spirit. Steven Meisel, whom I worked with after that, wasn’t as interested in their spirit, but he liked their look. Tell us about Meisel. He’s a little old-fashioned and a little bit Jeremy Scott Fall 2015 shy. He shot me once, and he made me feel so comfortable. He does the same thing with models. How did you transition from casting ads to shows? Fashion Week was a mystery to me. [Stylist] Joe McKenna asked if I’d be interested in doing one, and I was. It’s such a different experience. This person in front of you is walking and alive. You can become something else on the runway, but it’s also about your walk and your presence. Do you like it? Yes, but I’m not sure why we do it like we do it. We try

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

to squeeze it into this short period of time where everything is so frantic. I feel like there’s a better way. Why can’t we have a longer period of time to cast and get a show ready? What if we sat in a room and all saw the same models? Wouldn’t that be a lot easier? It would be much more time-efficient, because there are more and more shows than ever. Now, you can cast a job in days, and there are hundreds of agencies. Social media has also changed the game. Have things changed for the better? Depends on who you ask. I liked traveling around the world finding people with a camera in my hand. It was my excuse to have a conversation with someone I wouldn’t normally talk to. Now, people come to me—they walk into my office or send a video. Many clients ask me for a model’s social media stats. And the definition of beauty is changing—to have a long-standing modeling career today, you have to have a runway career, advertising campaigns, a big social media following, and an intelligent and distinct point of view. We still need to continue to have a conversation about the definition of beauty, because it’s still a bit narrow, especially when it comes to diversity. Are you tough to work for? I’m not tough. I laugh a lot. I did a reality show, [Bravo’s] Make Me a Supermodel, and they edited me so it looked like I didn’t laugh at all. People would come in to meet me afterward, and they were so surprised that I was friendly. I don’t think there’s a reason to be mean or have an attitude. We’re all in this together.

f i r s t v i e w (4)

Ralph Lauren Fall 2015

Don’t Mess With Texas Who do Karl, Diane, and Tommy trust with their campaigns season after season? Trey Laird, founder, chief executive, and chief creative officer of Laird+Partners. The Daily investigates! BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

What was your first foray into fashion? When I first came to New York, I sold shoes at Bergdorf Goodman. Were you a good salesman? I was actually really good. I was a customer there, and that’s how I got the job. Whenever I traveled to New York from Texas, I’d always go in and buy some shoes and send them home, so they knew me. At that time, 1987, it was a big FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Italian loafer moment. One day, [branding guru] Peter Arnell came in to buy a pair of shoes, and that’s how we met. I’d written him letters but hadn’t heard back. You’re a Texan. How much Texas is left inside of you? Kind of a lot. It comes out in different ways, but I think there’s always that side of being from a small town in a big city that never leaves you. I always wanted to be here, and I still can’t believe that I’m here, however many years later. As a Texan,

you have this “anything’s possible” attitude—it’s sort of in the water there. You ended up working for Peter Arnell at Arnell/Bickford and then in-house at Donna Karan. I was the creative director there for 11 years throughout the ’90s. It was an explosion. It was such an amazing place to learn, and grow, and really understand what it was like to build a brand. It was a really vibrant time because there were stores and new divisions opening all over the world, and men’s and home and fragrance launched. I couldn’t have asked for a better place to develop my career. Are you and Donna still friendly? Absolutely! I just saw her last weekend. Why did you decide to start your own company? I had done everything I was going to do at Donna’s, and I’d learned so much, and I was itching to figure out what the next thing was. I kept thinking that in fashion there were these really great art directors, with great taste, and an eye, and great aesthetic. There wasn’t necessarily a lot of strategy behind the shoots, or conceptual brain building, but it looked really good. On the other side, there were all these huge global agencies that would do all the different categories, but they just didn’t have the visual sophistication. I just couldn’t figure out why you couldn’t have something that had the visual sophistication that was required but at the same time be really smart strategically. What happened next? I got a call from Mickey Drexler, and he wanted me to come out and work with him at the Gap in San Francisco. I had an immediate connection to Mickey and I still do, and really respect him, and he’s been such a big mentor to me. I talked to Donna and she was really supportive and she said, “Well, if you’re going to do your own thing, then you’re going to do my stuff.” And I called Mickey and said, “I can’t move to San Francisco, but I’m going to do my own thing,” and he called me the next day and said, “Well, if you’re going to do your own thing, you’re going to do my stuff.” So I had the Gap and Donna Karan the day I opened. You couldn’t have written it. I still can’t believe how lucky I was. Now you work with Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld, Banana Republic, Tommy Hilfiger, DVF, Lane Bryant…the list goes on! How do you feel when you see your campaigns around the city? You’d be jaded if you said you didn’t get excited, because you do. That’s probably the Texan in me, the “Oh, my gosh, I can’t believe I did that!” And then in this split second everything runs through my mind, all the presentations, all the changes, the pushing to get it to a certain point, but then sometimes you see what you could have done more of, what wasn’t right. So you have to keep yourself in check to keep from going crazy. How did the Tommy Hilfiger family concept come about? Tommy had been trying different things and they came to us and said, “Can you really do a deep dive into the brand? Really hold up a mirror to who we are and do an objective, honest diagnosis in a way.” Almost like a brand doctor. And so we spent a few months really looking at everything. Tommy started as an American preppy classic brand, but with this lighthearted twist. Ralph [Lauren] was

“

the big other classic brand out there, but quite elegant, and quite serious and sophisticated, and Tommy was sort of a wild younger brother. We thought this idea of the family was so great and so perfect for Tommy. Because Tommy does have a very extended family, and he has one daughter who just had a baby, one son who has green hair and tattoos, he’s got a stepson, he has a little infant—it’s this mix of all types. And it’s not a literal reflection of Tommy’s family, but just that spirit of inclusiveness, which Tommy’s all about. You have a Karl Lagerfeld doll in your office. What’s it like working with Karl? It’s been one of the most rewarding relationships I’ve had professionally and personally. I find him so inspiring. I’ve never, ever in my life met anybody who works harder than he does. Yet he makes it all seem effortless…and to just be on top for that long, to me is so inspiring. He’s constantly pushing forward and keeping his finger on the pulse. I can come up with whatever I think is the coolest, newest person or thing or whatever, and he will have inevitably just met with them, or already talked to them, or they’re friends on whatever social media thing, or he’d just Skyped with them or whatever. It can be like a Japanese skateboarder graffiti artist or it could be a singer. He’s just so on it. Do you call him directly on his cell phone? No. We text. You’re in very good shape—are you a health nut? Fitness has become an outlet for stress release. A few years ago I was feeling sluggish and tired all the time, and it was almost like I couldn’t keep up with everything I had to do, so when I got it together on the health thing, it really opened up this whole other way to work to me. I can get so much done. I feel like a million bucks, and I’m able to accomplish so much more. It’s that one hour in the day where somebody else can tell me what to do. Clearly you’re a perfectionist. How do you describe your perfectionism? Always pushing to make something the best it can be, always seeing what you can do better, mad attention to detail. It’s so much about the details, every single little detail: the retouching, the cropping, the logo, the placement, is the concept coming through, is the idea strong enough, does it really represent the brand, does she look right, is the wardrobe right, is the film exciting enough, is the music good? Being sort of obsessive about it. It’s hard to turn it off. What’s next for your company? The digital activation opportunities continue to grow every year. The opportunity to create content is such an exciting thing, and I’m really interested in exploring that and going deeper in that world, and also working in different categories, too. Fashion now is such a cultural force, and everything we do to help brands succeed can be applied to so many different categories. Sounds like you’re doing exactly what you should be doing. I’ve been super lucky. A lot of people have helped me along the way. I love being part of this world, and I love all the people who work in it. I have really great relationships, and that’s something I really value. I love it. Especially now that I’m in better shape, I love getting up every day. Even if it’s at 6 a.m.

You’d be jaded if you said you didn’t get excited, because you do. That’s probably the Texan in me, the ‘Oh, my gosh, I can’t believe I did that!’ ”

ca m pa i g ns : c o u rt e sy

FASHION FOR THE PEOPLE! After years atop the mastheads of Lucky, Elle, and Vanity Fair, Alexis Bryan Morgan has gone digital. As Rent the Runway’s director of creative content, she’s instrumental in the brand’s effort to bring runway-caliber fashion to women all around the country—for the low price of $99 a month. BY ASHLEY BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO o you have a new gig. S I’ve been working on the relaunch of the website with our internal creative team to develop a new clean and sophisticated look for the brand, which debuts on September 14. My focus is on conceptualizing new content and strategies to introduce our designers to our audience. Why was it time for a relaunch? We want to update the look and feel of the site to reflect the luxury brands we carry and cater to our customer base of smart, millennial women. I’m amazed by the number of new users we see visiting the site every day. We want those new visitors to immediately understand who we are, how our service works, and the difference Rent the Runway can make in their lives. What cosmetic changes should we expect to see? We’re thinking about the site as a gallery space—clean, modern, and sophisticated. We hope it will serve as a showcase for each individual designer’s point of view. A lot of our customers will be learning about a brand for the first time, and we would like designers to be able to speak to them in an authentic way. How will the functionality and user experience improve? Content on the homepage will be refreshed every week and will serve as a source of constant inspiration, speaking to different trends, new designers, and product categories. What sort of fashion content will live on the site? We don’t want to force a point of view but rather showcase clothing in a way that makes it look its most beautiful and authentic. Editorials will be clean, with beautiful and simple graphic sets, and they’ll be dynamic to show the movement of a garment. The goal is always to inspire our customer. It’s been a massive learning experience. I thought I knew, more or less, how to create content for a digital platform, but now I’m really learning about all the different elements that are required to make something beautiful. It’s not just an image on the page—it’s the buttons, amount of white space, and user experience. Some images don’t work as well on digital—they need to speak a digital language as well as have a call-to-action. Are you focusing much on millennials? Yes. I’m learning more about the millennial girl, whom I thought I knew, more or less, but RTR has so much data on her. She just loves to share—she rents something, fills out a survey, and sends a photo of herself wearing the clothing. Everyone wants to reach her, and many of us have made assumptions about what she wants to see. We do a lot of testing, which helps us understand her. She doesn’t just respond to a beautiful image—she’s very left-brained with her shopping. She wants to know how something fits, and how it can be styled, and why the designer is relevant. Who are some of the new designers you’re launching? Jason Wu, Derek Lam, Nina Ricci, Giambattista Valli… I’ve always considered RTR as a place to rent a special occasion dress. How is that changing? We currently have a program called Unlimited, which is in beta. You pay a subscription fee—for now, it’s $99—and you can have any three items on rotation at any given time, and swap them whenever you want. It’s amazing, because editors have this wonderful situation where you can borrow the fun stuff, and then send it back to the closet. Now, every girl can have that experience. We’re finding that the program is mostly used for work, and the merchandise we’re buying reflects that. I’ve also, by the way, gotten very into the KonMari Method. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

I’m a fellow Marie Kondo fan. I currently own only two pair of pants. I’m obsessed. Now I love my closet. In addition to my pants from the Row, my perfect white button-downs, and my cashmere staples, I also have my Rent the Runway pieces—a Giamba faux fur anorak, a See by Chloé work-to-weekend dress, and a Cedric Charlier cocktail dress, which I can swap out. Do you go on the buying appointments? Some. I work with Sarah [Tam], our head of merchandising, who came from Saks. She’s amazing. We work together to think about our matrix, and we also identify emerging designers who perhaps aren’t getting picked up by other major retailers. Which lessons from the editorial world have proven useful in your new role? My editorial experience in coming up with stories that speak to different customers is very helpful. My experience at Lucky, specifically, was useful because the goal of those stories was always to incite a reader to take action to acquire a piece of clothing or to teach her how to wear something, as opposed to having a “lean back” experience, where you enjoy a fashion story as art or inspiration. My familiarity with a wide range of designers and how they’re best represented has also helped me build strategies around highlighting individual brands within our content. How does Rent the Runway deal with fit issues? We send backup sizes. The original Rent the Runway idea was totally genius, but [CEO and co-founder] Jennifer [Hyman] keeps on coming up with more genius ways to push the idea forward. I believe this idea can change the way women shop. How do you ensure that you’re carrying enough stock? We have so many analytics on what kinds of merchandise are popular at different times of year that we buy around those metrics. We know that easy work dresses are a top performer, so going into the next buy, we make sure to have a ton!

SUITE 2203 40-YEAR, SINGLE MALT SCOTCH DARK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES OVERSIZED SOAKING TUB BACKSTAGE ACCESS AT CARNEGIE HALL BLANK SHEET MUSIC

ONE OF MORE THAN 30 EXQUISITE HOTELS WORLDWIDE. FOR RESERVATIONS PLEASE VISIT PARKHYATTNEWYORK.COM. #LUXLIST

luxury is personal

INSIDE INFLUENCE

Jesse Carrier and Mara Miller, principals of Carrier and Company, are the low-key masterminds behind some of the fashion industry’s most beautiful private spaces, from Anna Wintour’s home to Jason Wu’s office. This month marks the publication of their first book, Positively Chic Interiors. BY ASHLEY BAKER Where did you meet? Mara Miller: At the Fashion Institute of Technology during our senior year of the interior design program. Jesse Carrier: Though we had both been students at FIT since 1992, we were in separate classes, until an internship at the then newly opened Aero Studios with Thomas O’Brien in ’95 caused me to change my class schedule. So we credit Thomas for bringing us together! Which formative experiences shaped your aesthetic? Jesse: My internship at Aero soon became a fulltime job. I loved and absorbed Thomas’s signature style of American modernism and eclecticism. I then transitioned to Bilhuber & Associates, where modernism took a glamorous turn. With Jeffrey [Bilhuber], I learned about scale and color and how to seamlessly mix periods and patterns to create sensuous spaces. Mara: While he was interning at Aero, I was an intern at what is now Ike Kligerman Barkley. I then spent two years at Sills Huniford Associates, then two years with FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Marcy V. Masterson Inc., and then five years with Sara Bengur Interiors. I was schooled in quality, daring, luxury, and restraint. What makes something “positively chic,” in Carrier and Company parlance? Mara: A tangible quality of ease expressed through comfort and personal style. What was the first project you worked on together? Mara: Our own apartment! We moved in together almost 20 years ago, with few possessions and even fewer dollars. The Chelsea flea market was a weekend given. How do you divide responsibilities? Mara: In the office, I run more of the business, and Jesse keeps up with ongoing clients. Larger projects are shared as a 50/50 split with us both attending site and design meetings, though one of us always takes the lead as the point person. Jesse can think on his feet and is decisive, while I like to assess, reflect, then resolve, so we’re a good team and keep projects rolling along on the front and back ends.

Clockwise from top left: An apartment at 1212 Fifth Ave., as part of the Hearst Designer Visions Showhouse for Town & Country; a sitting room in Southampton; a model apartment at the Printing House at 421 Hudson St.; the study and bedroom of Jay Fielden’s home in Wilton, CT, as featured in The New York Times; a guest bedroom in Southampton; Fielden’s living room.

Anna Wintour wrote the foreword to your book. How long have you been working together? Jesse: Anna is the cornerstone of our business. She encouraged us to start our business, and her support and patronage have remained constant for over a decade. You’ve designed Jay Fielden’s home twice, due to a house fire. How did the second iteration differ from the first? Jesse: While the fire was nothing short of a tragedy, it did offer opportunities to revisit and reevaluate the pros and cons of our first design, as well as make adjustments to accommodate a growing family. When we first met, Jay and his family had just bought this 1950s glass box–style home in the woods. Our objective then was to undo some of the unfortunate “upgrades” that had been made to the house during the ’80s and bring it back to its former modern glory. This entailed a new kitchen and baths and a lot of redecorating, but largely within the confines of the original architectural footprint, and recycling much of the furnishings they were moving with. If there can be a bright side to having suffered a house fire, it was that we were able to reconceive and make further improvements. For one, it gave us an opportunity to add on an extra bedroom and bathroom to accommodate family growth and rearrange the lower level to add conveniences like a mudroom and laundry room. While the eclectic, artful mix of aesthetics remains, it is more refined and tailored. How has your presence on Architectural Digest’s storied AD100 list changed things? Mara: We were inducted into the AD100 in 2012. It certainly raised our profile, and we started getting interviews for more sizable projects with teams in place—architects, landscape designers, lighting designers, closet designers. What’s it like to work with the likes of Jessica Chastain and Annie Leibovitz? Mara: To be trusted to create the private spaces for a celebrity always feels like an honor. In the case of Annie Leibovitz, who met us when shooting our family portrait for the Corcoran “Live Who You Are” campaign, it was especially exciting, because she analyzed our work, our home, and understood what we do, who we are, captured it on film—and then called upon us to help her with her own home. Otherwise, once you are past the threshold, every client is the same and gets treated the same—they want to be heard, understood, respected, and then delighted. How far-flung are your current projects? Jesse: Most of our work is based in New York, though we are fortunate that many clients keep second and third homes elsewhere. While we haven’t been invited to make over anyone’s Italian palazzo or villa in the south of France yet, we’ve completed projects in Florida, Virginia, California, and Illinois, and we’re just starting a project in Seattle. What is your philosophy on color? Mara: Variety is good; a blend is forgiving and atmospheric. I’d rather use a lot of softer colors than one strong color—it is easier to live with, and you don’t tire of it. What’s your dream project? Mara: I’m ready for an exotic locale—an immersion experience, possibly a boutique hotel. If you could design any products, what would they be? Mara: I’m obsessed with lamps, chairs, and tableware—Jesse is all about textiles! We are thrilled that the editor of House Beautiful mentioned in a recent New York Post story that she chose a carpet we designed for her own home. What’s the positively chicest place you’ve ever experienced? Mara: We attended the Met Gala. Not only was it amazing to see such a magnificent museum transformed into a tremendous party, but to watch celebrities celebrity-watch, it was too much fabulousness in one place in one evening! And the requisite personal style questions: Where do you shop for clothes? And what are your signature looks? Mara: I have three go-to shops all in our Upper East Side neighborhood—Edit for Stella McCartney, Phillip Lim, and Acne; Anik for jeans and cashmere knits, and Vince for dresses, tops, and knits. Jesse: I’m so predictable! Levi’s for jeans and J.Crew for everything else. That’s my uniform, though I do enjoy an occasional suit by Ralph Lauren or Paul Smith. Slim cut, please! A ll ima g e s c o u r t e s y

SCENT

the runway! Does your brand, store, or even blog have its own signature smell? No? Then quick—call up twin sisters Dawn and Samantha Goldworm, whose olfactive branding firm, 12.29, is emerging as the fashion world’s go-to purveyor of custom scents. BY ASHLEY BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

How did you get together? Dawn Goldworm: In the womb! [Laughs] I have a background in perfumery—I started my career at Avon, and then I was at Coty in New York and Paris. Samantha has a background in market research in branding for companies like L’Oréal and American Express. When I was in New York, I started writing a thesis on the idea of olfactive branding, and when I moved to Paris, I talked about it with Corto Moltedo, the son of the Bottega Veneta family, which was launching a new accessories brand. I convinced him to try out this idea, using a custom scent in the store or in any environment where the brand was living. Soon after, I was geeking out about my thesis during lunch with Alex de Betak. He was like, “Hey, why don’t you scent the Rodarte show?” That’s when Sam and I started working together. What’s your process? Dawn: It begins by meeting with the designer. When I met with Prabal Gurung, he had every single look sketched out. He had all his shoes done; he had the fabrics chosen; he knew the music he was going to use; he had an idea of what the set was going to look like. When I met with Thakoon, he gave me three images—one of a cowboy, one of a bandanna, and one of spices from India. We take apart the collection to understand the emotion and the feeling of the season and brand. Then I go away and create the scent. Then Sam takes over, and we discuss the space. How do you infuse these large spaces? Dawn: We use scent machines, which take pure oil and atomize it into gas. For presentations, we put the scent where designers want people to stand, because we find ourselves walking toward good smells. How many scents have you created at 12.29? Dawn: About 50 or 60 olfactive signatures, but a lot of the time, we make the scent into a candle, and then a scent for paper, and then a sachet. It could be up to five product forms on one scent. Fashion brands aside, who else are you working with? Dawn: The Viceroy, the Thompson Hotels group, Sixty Hotels, the Quin, the WestHouse Hotel, the Knickerbocker, and the Rittenhouse Hotel in Philadelphia. We also work with Valentino, Mercedes-Benz, and Porsche… up next is a planned community in Hawaii, which includes everything from private residential buildings to hotels to commercial spaces. How long does it take you to create a scent? Dawn: Three to four months if it’s a scent for air; longer if it’s a perfume for skin. Our palette consists of about 2,500 ingredients. Any favorites? Dawn: I can’t have a subjective opinion about a brand—I can’t decide what I want it to smell or feel like. I have to look at it objectively and then define it through smell. I look at these ingredients like crayons in a box. Dawn, which fragrances did you work on? Dawn: I did a lot of celebrity perfumes at Coty—the last one was for Lady Gaga. She was telling me about how her music is very cyclical, so the shape of the perfume is very round. When you first smell into it, you smell the signature, but you lose it for a minute when you get into the floral stage and the gourmand piece, and then all of a sudden, it comes back at you again. What’s new on the candle front? Dawn: We worked with Limoges to create porcelain candles; they’re sold exclusively at Barneys. They look like stone when they’re cold, but when you light them, the jar glows and looks like lace. They’re based on a very tragic, tortured, deeply romantic love story, so they have names like “A Dark Affair,” “A FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Dawn and Samantha Goldworm

Beautiful Sacrifice,” and “Forget Everything But Me.” Who’s the best-smelling person you’ve ever encountered? Dawn: If I were to give you my honest answer, my boyfriend might leave me. Samantha Goldworm: My fiancé. Clean and fresh, with just enough of that manly skin smell. If you could scent any place… Samantha: A duomo or cathedral in Europe. If you could scent the space in front of it with the smell of all those people inside, that could be really powerful. Dawn: I think it would be fascinating to scent dreams. If you could connect them to a scent, I bet you could remember them later. But I guess we create scented dreams anyways, at least when we’re doing fashion shows. courtesy

THE DAILY WONDERS…

How Do You Sleep? “I can sleep anytime, anywhere. I go to bed around midnight, pass out within a minute, and get about seven hours of sleep on an average night. Every night I sleep in a full-on, face-to-face hug position with my Persian cat, Oscar. I never remember dreams, I like cold rooms with a lot of natural light, my cell phone is my alarm, and I iron my sheets.”

“I need eight hours. If I go too many days without, I usually get sick. Lately, things have been crazy and I’ve been getting about five or six hours a night, and working about 12 to 15 hours a day, seven days a week. My night schedule looked very different about a month ago, but recently, it’s not as glamorous. At home, I rip off my shoes and pants, get straight into sweats and wash my face. I read some interior-design magazines. I set my alarm for 8, 8:15, 8:30, 8:40 on normal days when I don’t have an early meeting.” —Katharine Polk, designer, Houghton

—Tanya Taylor “I don’t have a regular sleep schedule—I tend to wake up and go to bed at all hours depending where in the world I am. I’m definitely more of a night person than a morning person, and I feel most creative and productive when most people are asleep. I love my Pratesi sheets from Wilkes Bashford.” —Pamella Roland

“My alarm clock is my cat, Tarzan. Starting at around 8:30, she sits on my chest and begins to have full conversations with me. Her meows get louder as time goes on, demanding food and attention. There is no snooze button. It’s extremely cute, but also extremely annoying on weekends!” —Harley Viera-Newton “It’s never enough! Although I’ve gotten very lucky with my kids— they used to wake up between 6 and 6:30, but they started sleeping longer. I’ve been getting to sleep in until 8:15, unless I work out, in which case I’m up at 7. I finally collapse at the end of the day once they’re in bed. I always play ocean sounds to help them fall asleep, and it’s actually helped me, too! My sheets are John Robshaw & Roberta Roller Rabbit.” —Rebecca Minkoff FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“I sleep between six and seven hours a night. I sleep half the night on my right side and half the night on my left side. My husband is my alarm clock. I always sleep better in perfectly ironed sheets with two Italian down pillows.”—Dennis Basso

“Leading into Fashion Week, I’m lucky if I get three solid hours of sleep a night for the month before, especially working on two shows. My puppies are my alarm clock, which is always a great way to start the day. There is something very serene about white sheets, so that is always my preference.” —Marissa Webb

“I’m a real night owl, and the worst sleeper alive. It takes me hours to switch my thinking head off. Even though I train physically and play tennis pretty much every day, you would think my body would be exhausted, and as a result I would be able to get to sleep easily. No! Very much the opposite. I have tried many different remedies and nothing helps. My ideal sleeping time would be nine hours. As an athlete, I need that extra time in bed to recharge my batteries and to give my sore muscles a good rest. Thank God that I’m lucky enough to travel with a masseur who maintains my body every day.”—Ana Ivanovic “I usually sleep from midnight until 6:30. I don’t need an alarm clock. I just wake up and then stay in bed answering e-mails and reading the papers for a couple of hours. I sleep really well, and I’m sure my giant round bed helps! Sleep recharges my brain, and I definitely do my best thinking and creating in the morning.”—Lisa Perry

“I have a super strong circadian rhythm, so I never really set an alarm unless I have a 4 a.m. call time. My body wakes up a minute before the alarm if I do set one—it just knows. I definitely function best on eight hours and don’t really feel like myself with less.” —Mara Hoffman g e tt y ima g e s ( 5 ) ; b f an y c . c o m ( 4 ) ; patri c km c m u llan . c o m ; s h u tt e r s t o c k

Real-world education means value-added employees. Berkeley College graduates enter the workforce with more than a typical classroom education. Programs developed with input from industry experts. Outstanding faculty. Access to top fashion industry resources. That’s what the Fashion Marketing and Management program at Berkeley College is all about. In fact, our time-tested approach to education is so effective that leading companies and organizations hire Berkeley grads year after year.

Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu

Find us @BerkeleyCollege • #BerkeleyCollege

Berkeley College reserves the right to add, discontinue, or modify its programs and policies at any time. Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures.

“Through the Fashion Program at Berkeley College, I have met knowledgeable professors who emphasize the skills needed to succeed. I have also had opportunities to connect with industry professionals. Now, I am ready to chase my dreams.” Kaja Berg (left) Fashion Marketing and Management Student P4597-8.2014

Beyond “

the Blog Nowadays, “blog” is only a small part of a fashion blogger’s résumé. On top of posting daily outfit inspo and style news, they’re busy collaborating with brands, fronting campaigns, and even launching lines of their own. We’ve been catching up with our favorite style doyens all summer long on FashionWeekDaily.com—finding out their big news, career highlights, and lofty goals—and, lucky for you, we have the best tidbits here. BY SYDNEY SADICK

I love to travel— I’m constantly inspired by the art, architecture, and chic girls I see in the cities I visit—so I’m launching a travel app geared toward ambitious jet-setters. It will include 15 of my favorite cities, offering insider information on where to eat, stay, shop, relax, play and, of course, what to wear!”

—Kat Tanita of With Love From Kat on developing her app

“

My true passion lies in merchandising. Blogging can be a little isolating unless you make the personal choice to hire a team or interns. I like going into a company with creative, likeminded people.” —Blair Eadie of Atlantic-Pacific on blogging and working for Tory Burch

“

Maybe it’s because I’m a native New Yorker. I like to think my style is the perfect mix of relatable and aspirational.”

—Danielle Bernstein of We Wore What on why people follow her

“

Rihanna saw me at a Chanel show a few seasons ago. She stood up, told her bodyguards to pave the way for me, came up, held my sweaty face with her hands—and kissed me on my cheek.”

—Bryanboy on one of his career highlights

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“

I’m a completely different person in New Orleans. It’s so laidback that you’d be completely out of place if you were dressing like you lived in New York. I have so many sports bras now. That’s all I wear: yoga pants and sports bras.” —Lindsey Calla of Calla in Motion on making the fashion transition from NYC to New Orleans

“

I just went to Tulum, Mexico, with Soludos. How could you not be stoked to be able to go somewhere and take pictures of beautiful clothes or accessories? That said, if a brand approaches you and you’ve never worn it before, don’t sell out, because people will be able to sniff that out and they won’t trust your word.”

—Heidi Nazarudin of The Ambitionista on common misconceptions of bloggers

—Emily Schuman of Cupcakes and Cashmere on creating her clothing line of the same name

—Jacey Duprie of Damsel In Dior on brand collaborations

“

A lot of people think bloggers just wake up and take Instagram photos of themselves and get stuff for free. But that’s really not true: 90 percent of the time we’re blogging, researching, or networking. It’s hard work!”

My line was 18 months in the making. I named each item from the 60-piece collection, chose the fabrics, went over dozens of sketches, and approved each piece. It centers around L.A., San Francisco, and Malibu.”

I want to help people make the right decisions instead of being peer-pressured. I’m no psychiatrist, but this world needs some positive influencers to actually lead.” —Jamal Jackson of Style Society Guy on his ultimate goal

“

I felt like it was time to take my blog to the next level and show people I have something specific and personal to share. I knew exactly what the pieces should look like. I was like, ‘Why haven’t I been able to find these pieces in all of the years I’ve been blogging?’ ” —Rumi Neely of Fashion Toast on starting her line, Are You Am I

Uh-oh, people are going to hate me for this, but not often! Thankfully I do receive a lot of clothing, but every season I will splurge on one item. This season, I invested in a pair of Valentino tennis shoes.”

—Moti Ankari of The Metro Man on how often he goes shopping

bfa n y c . c o m ( 7 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u lla n . c o m ( 3 ) ; g ett y i m a g e s ; all o t h e r s c o u r te s y

spree SHOPPING PROMOTION

$204

Line & Dot, Belle halter maxi dress

$118

One Teaspoon, Le Creme open-front sweater

$55

Brixton Dalila, hat in flint gray

$278

Kate Spade New York, Mini Vivenna crossbody bag in classic wash

$190

Jeffrey Campbell, Hanger Shaft boot in black box

revolve Clothing Swing into fall with these groovy looks from Revolve Clothing. (Seventies style was all the rage on last seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s runways, remember?). Ensure the attention of the street style snappers!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

all photos courtesy

$101

ale by alessandra, Taos hat

$224

For Love & Lemons, Joplin cardigan

$162

Raga, desert fringe skirt

$139

Novella Royale, Janis bells

$225

Marc by Marc Jacobs, Tether watch

$295

Sam & Lavi, Marcella dress

$112

$228

Heartloom, Tess faux fur coat

J.O.A., sleeveless onebutton coat

$148

B-Low the Belt, Bri Bri belt

$118

NBD, X Revolve Baby Me bustier

$140

For Love & Lemons, Geneva blouse

$350

$375

Mackage, Rubie crossbody bag

The Great, The Century top in ringmaster stripe

$231

$995

Capulet, faux fur leather vest

Sam., Crosby fur coat

$170

Lovers & Friends, devoted dress

spree SHOPPING PROMOTION

SHERRI HILL Go glam for the upcoming gala season with these diva-inspired gowns.

$750

Re-embroidered lace halter with exclusive roseprint skirt

all photos courtesy

$550

$480

$578

Duchess satin exclusive print with contrast fuchsia bodice

Ivory and nude two-piece color-block ball gown

Delicately embellished lace crop top and miniskirt

$590

$578

$350

$550

Rose-print duchess satin dress with pockets

$480

Two-piece duchess satin dress featuring couture button treatment

$598

Faille printed ball gown skirt with long-sleeve lace crop top

Exclusive borderprint satin skirt with satin crop top

Exclusive faille print cocktail dress

$450

Razorback bodice with large ruffle waterfall skirt

$450

Color-block duchess satin bodice and trumpet skirt

$518

Honeycomb beading embellished matte jersey column dress

$480

Lightly embellished bodice with embroidered lace skirt

$680

Retro halter and matching satin skirt with pockets

Duchess satin gown with color-block stripes

$450

Beaded bodice with cutaway back detail and taffeta skirt

$550

Exclusive black and yellow print Audrey-cut gown with lace bodice

Here, There & Everywhere! To get to all your favorite shows this season, you might need a little more than Fashion GPS. A helicopter, perhaps?

n 9 am Tory Burch Koch Theater at Lincoln Center

n 9 pm Alexander

Wang PIER 94 55th St. and the West Side Highway

n 12:30 pm Elie Tahari Elie Tahari Vault Store 510 Fifth Ave.

n 12 pm Creatures of the Wind

n 7 pm Zac

n 8 pm Narciso

Posen Vanderbilt Hall 89 East 42nd St.

Rodriguez SIR Stage37 508 West 37th St.

n 2 pm Boss

Womenswear 245 Park Ave.

n 10 am BCBG

n 5 pm Ryan

Roche High Line Hotel, The Refectory 180 Tenth Ave.

MAXAZRIA

n 2 pm Betsey

n 3 pm Marissa Webb n 8 pm Adam Selman n 3 pm Cushnie

Johnson

n 1 pm Hervé Léger n 7 pm Monique

et Ochs

n 11 am Dion Lee n 6 pm Baja East n 5 pm Jonathan

Simkhai n 12 pm Houghton n 9 pm The Blonds Milk Studios 450 West 15th St.

Lhuillier

n 11 am Erin

Fetherston

n 2 pm Tadashi Shoji n 11 am Yigal Azrouël n 7:30 pm Zang Toi n 6 pm Reem Acra n 7 pm Greg Lauren The Dock, Skylight at Moynihan Station 360 West 33rd St.

n 11 am Public School n 7 pm Prabal Gurung

n 2 pm Jeremy Scott n 10 am Badgley Mischka

n 2 pm Dennis Basso n 12 pm Naeem Khan n 6 pm Anna Sui The Arc, Skylight Moynihan Station 360 West 33rd St.

n 5 pm Sophie

Theallet Shop Studios 528 West 39th St.

n 6:30 pm Oscar

de la Renta The Prince George Ballroom 14 East 28th St.

n 2 pm Sally

LaPointe Skylight Modern 537 West 27th St.

n 11 am Vera Wang 547 West 26th St. n 11 am Kate Spade 441 West 14th St.

midtown *Information up to date as of press time. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

downtown

n 5 pm Pamella

Roland Whitney Museum of American Art 555 West St.

n 4 pm Maiyet 60 Gansevoort St.

n 12 pm

Zimmermann

n 2 pm Tracy Reese

n 11 am Jill Stuart

n 3:30 pm Milly

Industria Superstudio 775 Washington St.

ArtBeam 540 West 21st St.

n 9 am Nicholas K n 6 pm Nicole

n 10 am Ralph

Lauren The Gallery at Skylight Clarkson Sq. 550 Washington St.

Miller n 12 pm Rebecca Minkoff n 3 pm Mara Hoffman n 12 pm Lela Rose n 9 am Suno n 1 pm Bibhu Mohapatra n 4 pm J.Crew The Gallery at Skylight Clarkson Sq. 558 Washington St.

n 9:30 am Adam

Lippes 24 Washington Sq. North

n 6 pm Cynthia

Rowley 16 Morton St.

n 11 am Jason Wu n 10 am Lacoste n 5 pm Altuzarra n 4 pm Diane von Furstenberg

n 6 pm Edun n 10 am Michael

n 12:30 pm Rachel

Zoe The Space at Skylight Clarkson Sq. 550 Washington St.

n 8 pm Proenza

Kors

n 2 pm Calvin

Klein Spring Studios 50 Varick St.

n 12:30 pm Rosie

Assoulin Tony Dapolito Recreation Center 1 Clarkson St.

n 7 pm Nanette

Lepore Nanette Lepore Soho Boutique 423 Broome St.

Schouler Skylight 60 Tenth

n 12 pm Tanya

Taylor Swiss Institute 18 Wooster St.

n 3 pm DKNY Westfield WTC West Gallery

n 11 am Tommy Hilfiger PIER 36 299 South St.

T Thursday, September 10 F Friday, September 11 S Saturday, September 12 S Sunday, September 13 M Monday, September 14 T Tuesday, September 15 W Wednesday, September 16

n 8 pm Rag & Bone St Annâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Warehouse 45 Water St., Brooklyn

n 1 pm Diesel

The Legend

T Thursday, September 17

YOUR CHARIOT AWAITS!

Black Gold 23 Wall St.

bfa n y c . c o m ( 4 0 ) ; patrickmcm u lla n . c o m ( 1 3 ) ; gett y images ( 6 ) ; sh u tterst o ck ; all o thers c o u rtes y

daily mail

PUBLICISTs in crisis What they really think about vous!

Dear Editor, I really don’t want to have to start with some banal pleasantry about the weather or your weekend, but it feels wrong to dive into what I want, so here goes nothing: Hope you are having a great day—this humidity is totally cramping my style! I have to pitch you something from my client. I’m not as excited about it as I should be, but I will put on my best Miss America smile and talk about how groundbreaking it is that this designer has pushed the limits of innovation and attached sequins to a sweater. You know I don’t believe everything I have to say, right? Regardless, I am not putting you in a mass BCC, so I hope you see that I care enough to write you directly. All I want is for you to acknowledge me. It can be the shortest of answers, and I will survive if it is negative. A simple “no, not right for us.” I will accept any shred of feedback so I can tell my client a sugarcoated version of the truth and hopefully get them to stop e-mailing me about your response. E-mails falling into an abyss are awful and then I’ll be forced to further embarrass myself and follow up a dozen times. No one in this equation wants that. Perhaps I can come for a desk side? If so, fingers crossed it isn’t one of those where you stare semi-blankly at the collection and pretend to take photos with a total poker face. I can whip out jazz hands and dance like someone has a gun to my feet in the Old West, but that is just awkward for everyone. I will be more than happy to see if overnight we can make that gold cuff bracelet into a silver necklace and change out the malachite stones to be sapphires. Quick question: When you say the returns will be next week, can I expect to have them by mid-2016? Is that a realistic time frame? Also, I want to apologize in advance for the fake smile I will give you while checking you into that event this week. I have a headset on, 15 people are barking at me, and I am afraid that I have really bad breath. Thank you so much for RSVPing after I wrote you no fewer than 50 times to elicit a response. And of course I would be happy to put you in a different seat. I only worked on that seating chart for 178 hours and have a very specific plan of where everyone must go because you-know-who just has to sit you-know-where. But of course I can accommodate you—I’d be delighted! In any case, I thank you for your consideration and I look forward to hearing from you! Do you know that when we say “I look forward to hearing from you” that it is a veiled threat of all the follow-up to come?

Best, Publicist P.S. I’d love to go get drunk with you at a fancy restaurant and not talk about work, so we can really be friends. I’ll expense it. What do you say?

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

firstview (3)

Some classrooms may have great acoustics or comfortable seats, but our students live and learn in fashion’s most powerful classroom – New York City. With roots in midtown Manhattan and a front door on 5th Avenue, we give our students the professional connections, internship opportunities, and cultural exposure you can only access here in the fashion capital of the world. We think BEYOND THE CLASSROOM to propel our students beyond their expectations.

LEARN MORE AT LIMCOLLEGE.EDU/BEYOND Michelle Nicolas ‘15 Marketing

15LIM0179_LIM_THINKBEYOND_PrintAds_19AUG.indd 1

8/20/15 12:05 AM