The Daily Coterie

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Sunday, February 23, 2014

Coterie +

SOLE COMMERCE

Show Directory Inside!

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LUXURY Who’s Showing!

Who’s Talking!

Who’s Buzzing Right Now!

Booth 3622 Javits - Level 3

Belts Scarves www.suziroher.com

# i tsa l l a b o u tth e swe at er Coterie | Booth #7412

Happy

30TH Birthday, 5 2 5 ! www. 525america.com

BOOTH #9906 & 9908 LEVEL 1 DOWNSTAIRS WWW.GORSKIGROUP.COM INFO@GORSKIGROUP.COM (514) 281-9959

danielrainn

New York

Los Angeles

231 W. 39th Street, Ste 315 New York, NY 10018 T 212.575.0395 F 212.575.0393 Jason Beckwith jason@danielrainn.com

127 E. 9th Street, Suite 613 Los Angeles, CA 90015 T 213.627.1850 F 213.627.4008 Amy Kenner amy@danielrainn.com

booth #2940

BOOTH 320 LEVEL 4 www.emmelledesign.com

Visit us at COTERIE - Booth 6430

desigual.com

Booth #2942 amymatto.com

Parlez Vouz Scottish?

The luxury insiders new discovery International Contemporary

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Designer Manufacturer Made in Scotland Loro Piana Yarns www.shicashmere.com

the

COTERIE NEWBIES YOU NEED TO KNOW!

Nili Lotan Booth: 2821, Level 3 Pam & Gela Booth: 1904, Level 3 Anveglosa Booth: 3032, Level 3 Khoon Hooi Booth: 4632, Level 3 Lorena Saravia Booth: 4533, Level 3 Badgley Mischka Outerwear Booth: 1823, Level 3 Valentino Scarves Booth: 3625, Level 3 Rodebjer Booth: 4130, Level 3 Frock + Frill Booth: 11504, Level 1

CATCHING UP

With Sarah Pacini’s artistic director, Naila Jaffer

What’s the inspiration this season?

Istanbul! It’s a bridge between East and West, where mystery, flamboyance and splendor are one.

If you had to wear one accessory forever, what would it be?

A glittering ring to light a brilliant fire, both day and night!

What are three Fall must-haves?

Simple, textured knits, satin, and a handbag to complete the look.

BUYER BANTER With Shopbop’s senior buyer, Alana Goldsmith Brown How do you know when something is a trend?

Each season, there are styles the Shopbop girl will be excited to wear. It’s fun when we can’t keep those styles in stock.

What’s the best part of the trade shows?

Making sure I see every single booth at a show!

Got any trade show rituals?

I like to sit on the floor in my favorite booths, surrounded by samples.

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front row

Khoon Hooi Booth: 4632 ROLO & ALE Booth: 4742

Editor in Chief, CEO

Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director

your daily dose SCENE

Welcome back to Coterie, darlings! A few key morsels to help you hit the trade show floor running… ☛ Need a pick-me-up? How about a cappuccino in the morning and a glass of champagne in the afternoon?

Get your gratis java and bubbly daily on Level 1. ☛ At ROLO & ALE (Booth: 4742, Level 3) designer Rolando Santana is offering up a trio of Zoya nail polishes to buyers. The color palette of lacquers coordinates with ROLO & ALE’s Fall hues: Black matte, sparkly black, and a pale yellow. ☛ Karmic kick! 810 Showroom (Booth: 6336, Level 3) has a “Spread the Love” program that will donate $1 for every show order over $1,000 to Hunger Fight. Each dollar will provide four meals to fight hunger in North Florida. Stop by today at 4 p.m. for champers and cupcakes. Giving back has never tasted so sweet! ☛

CHIC JOURNEYS With Marchesa Voyage’s Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman BOOTH: 4113, LEVEL 3

What’s the scoop on Marchesa Voyage?

Georgina Chapman: We’ve always wanted Marchesa to be a full lifestyle brand. The next natural step was to design a contemporary collection!

Keren Craig: Voyage is effortless, romantic, and eclectic, with a big focus on custom prints. It’s Marchesa for everyday!

What are the latest looks like?

GC: Fall’s concept is an evening storm in the tropics.

KC: There are patterned jacquards and richly saturated turquoises and acid yellows.

HAIR ENVY

With Nonoo’s designer, Misha Nonoo

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Writer Reporters Dena Silver, Julie Zigos Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editors Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros Contributing Copy Editor Annette Deinzer Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Assistant Mihai Simion President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Trade Publications Director Charles Garone Advertising Director Hannah Sinclair Account Directors Chloe Worden Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Sales & Marketing Coordinator Sabrina Fares Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Jan Borowicz

To advertise call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com GETTY IMAGES The Official Photo Agency of The Daily Front Row

DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

Single copy price $5.99.

Annual subscription price (18 issues) $89.

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BOOTH: 2720, LEVEL 3

Your blond locks are gorge! Does anyone envy your tresses?

God only knows! My puppy tries to eat my hair when she’s feeling naughty or playful.

Whose hair do you covet?

Poppy Delevingne’s!

You’re a Brit. Do you have tons of raincoats and wellies?

Yeah! Everyone in London has a Burberry trench coat. It’s not so much of a luxury item as it is a wardrobe necessity.

ON THE COVER: Anmari Botha in J.Mendel Fall 2014 Collection photographed by FirstView

GETTY IMAGES (4); BFANYC.COM; ALL OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY

WRAP STAR! With Diane von Furstenberg BOOTH: 2207, LEVEL 3

Can you believe your wrap dress is 40?

It’s crazy! I completely took that dress for granted. Even though it paid all my bills, bought my house, paid for my children’s education, made me famous, and put me on the cover of Newsweek. Sometimes I even resented it.

When did you start embracing the wrap?

Last year, I decided to honor it. I never thought I made a fashion statement. Its timelessness is incredible.

SUGAR RUSH With Scoop’s VP and GMM of women’s, Heidi Hoelzer

What’s your favorite part of the trade show grind?

Finding a new collection or brand that has Scoop written all over it.

Got any showgoing rituals?

Lots of coffee and candy.

What’s your ideal show day?

Saying hello to everyone! I have a hit list of brands to catch up with.

Diane von Furstenberg Fall ’14

PLAYING FAVORITES With Hunter Bell

BOOTH: 5520, LEVEL 3 Fave veggie: Corn on the cob.

Fave show tune: “Defying Gravity” from Wicked.

Fave workout: Flywheel

Fave street: Irving Place Fave bread: I’m gluten free!

Illicit crush: Ryan Gosling

z u B z Fix

SCENE Love soft T- shirts but bored with basic hues? Timo Weiland has a remedy! The New York-based Weiland team joined forces with L.A.-based with Three Dots to present a bi-coastal collab. The shirts, debuting at Coterie, sport dark floral print (above).

Swing by Booth 6704 to check out the start of a beautiful partnership. ☛ Pattern afficionados, take note!

According to Denia Guemri, owner of Den Luxury Group (Booth: 3326, Level 3), “Missoni capes are hot!” The showroom has recently introduced the caps in a slew of hues. Also of note, according to Guemri: A lot of vintage Gianni Versace-era prints are being re-introduced to the public, which is very exciting.” Indeed! ☛ Family first! Signal Products’ CEO and co-owner, Jason Rimokh, (Booth: 3440, Level 3) joined the showroom, which reps Trina Turk, Splendid, and Ella Moss, just a year after his father founded the company in 1992. ”My family motivates me to do my best. It’s what our company is about!” Rimokh said. No surprise, then, that Rimokh never travels without a snapshot of his quartet of kids. Aww alert! ☛

TOUGH COOKIE With Jill Stuart BOOTH: 1620, LEVEL 3

What did you have in mind when designing your Fall collection?

It’s about a girl with an attitude, who’s massively unpredictable.

She handpicks her clothes on instinct. She’s the girl of today! It’s boyishly poetic.

What are your favorites from the collection?

The embroidered dresses, long skirts, and layering pieces.

How hands-on do you get when designing?

I do a lot of work in the mills in Italy, developing fabrics.

BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK With Frame Denim’s co-founders, Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson BOOTH: 4907, LEVEL 3 What’s happening for Fall?

Jens Grede: This season’s theme is back to black. It’s a dressy, sophisticated aesthetic.

Erik Torstensson: Most people we know wear black-on-black-on-black. It’s the fashion uniform—and it’s our uniform!

You paired with Karlie Kloss on superlong jeans. How are they selling?

ET: Really well! Working with her wasn’t a gimmick: We created something that girls like Karlie actually need.

JUGGLING IT ALL With Kate Spade New York’s president and creative director, Deborah Lloyd BOOTH: 2220, LEVEL 3

What’s your typical day?

My life is like a jigsaw puzzle. Nothing ever happens in the right order, but I love it. In order to stay creative I can’t work 24 hours a day. I’m in at half past 8 a.m. and I leave around 7 p.m., but I fiercely protect my weekends, because it’s my time to think.

How do you de-stress?

All I need to do is walk through my front door in Brooklyn! I’ve got two crazy standard Schnauzers that wag their tails and are so happy to see me. My amazing husband is a huge support.

Kate Spade New York just turned 20. What do the next two decades hold?

The sky’s the limit, really. The possibilities are endless!

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Kate Spade New York Fall ’14

LLOYD: GIORGIO NIRO; GETTY IMAGES (6); FIRSTVIEW (4); BFANYC.COM (2); ALL OTHERS COURTESY

YARNZ_AD.pdf

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WHO’S

Are YOU on the list?

SHOWING!

ZYNNI CASHMERE Qing Hua, Designer & Founder Booth: 9822, Level 1 Tell us about Zynni Zynni.

Zynni Cashmere is a luxury readyto-wear label made of 100 percent cashmere. It's for the working woman who loves natural elegance and understated glamour.

Were you always planning to go into cashmere design?

Before I went to London College of Fashion to study knitwear design, I studied and practiced six years of Chinese classical and contemporary dance.

Where is your favorite place to wear cashmere?

On an airplane!

RAMY BROOK Ramy Sharp, President and Founder, Booth: 1507, Level: 3 What colors were you drawn to this time around?

When I think of fall, the colors I like to wear are black and gray. In order to brighten up the darker color palette I'm adding in pop colors such as red, pinks and electric blue.

Why did you decide to start designing handbags this season?

Handbags are a great accessory to complete a look. My wardrobe was missing a fashionable, fun, yet practical bag so it was time to develop that.

What else is new for your brand?

Fall 2014 is very exciting for Ramy Brook.

In addition to the fabulous bag collection, we're launching a capsule jewelry collection of necklace and bracelets. On the ready-to-wear side, we’re bringing in lots of texture with lace, furs, and leather.

In the summer you can always be spotted in the Hamptons, do you spend any time there in the winter?

I love the Hamptons in the winter. Nothing beats hanging by the fire with a good book.

INDIGENOUS Britta Reynolds, Designer Booth: 1945, Level 1 What's the gist of your new collection?

Fall 2014 is full of featherweight alpaca and organic cotton sweaters in stone and granite mélange color yarns. There are also nomadic sweaters, ponchos, and scarves in soft, bouncy, chunky knits. Boiled-wool alpaca jackets are convertible and plated color sweaters are reversible.

How often do you get to travel to see your pieces being made?

Our production team heads to South America once a quarter. I don’t have to travel as often as that, but each time I have the experience of working with our artisan partners, it always fills me with renewed purpose and passion.

Do you have a Coterie BFF? I especially look forward to seeing Paul and Noel from Zero on Main, and Molly McKee from Whole Earth Provision.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS

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COTERIE, NYC Booth #9822 | Javits Center | Level 1 retail www.zynnicashmere.com whole sale www.zynnicashmere.com/Boutique

CYNTHIA STEFFE

Booth #1522 For Appointments Please Contact:

Jessica Best, Director of PR and Specialty Sales 646-562-4810; jbest@cynthiasteffe.com Samantha Shlopak, Web and Social Media Account Executive sshlopak@cynthiasteffe.com www.CynthiaSteffe.com

WHO’S Showing PLANET Lauren Grossman, Owner & President Booth: 9720, Level 1 What’s trending on your Planet?

The trend this season incorporates a menswear influence as well as bold color statements against charcoals and blacks, with mod pops of stark white.

What scents pair well with your collection?

Clean, woodsy scents. Especially ones that are light and fresh. We like scents that make a statement but don’t overpower the clothing or the individual.

Do you have a Coterie BFF? Andy Bazelle! There hasn’t been a Coterie show where he hasn’t supplied my entire staff with gourmet cookies and candies.

What was your greatest Coterie success?

Our Spring collection launched this past September at Coterie and broke all company records. It’s a phenomenal way to start a season!

SACHIN + BABI Babi Ahluwalia, Designer & Creative Director Booth: 3813, Level 3 Tell us about your collection.

We refer to Fall 2014 as sublime facets. Fall is one of my favorite seasons since we are able to use rich and heavy fabrics that work for layering.

What colors were you drawn to for this collection?

Duskier colors like scarlet red, black, and metallic, many with leather textures.

What was your first collection like?

Our first collection was Resort.

We used washed indigos and white tones. Looking back, we've grown so rapidly as a brand and as designers.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

EMMELLE Mi Jong Lee, Creative Director & Founder Booth: 320, Level 4 Tell us about your Fall 2014 collection!

It’s all about luxury fabrics on sculptural shapes.

What colors were you drawn to this season?

Accents of deep red on foundations of black and gray.

Let’s talk lunch! Where do you usually eat?

At the booth. I take bites between buyer appointments.

What's your favorite city for shopping?

I’m not a big shopper, but I do love Paris.

RAW+ Ryuichiro Shimazaki and Hisako Sato, Designers, Booth: 4534, Level: 3 Any goals for your first season at Coterie?

We would like to introduce our innovation to all buyers who are creativity-conscious. The concept of Raw+ is to add something new to raw materials, like our new goat leather, which is double-side tanned, super thin and ultra-light leather What’s the most surprising part of your collection?

We want to give you a break from conventional leather clothes that are stiff and heavy. You’d be surprised at our jacket’s thinness and lightness.

Who is the Raw+ girl?

Our clothes are for all ladies who are intellectual, sophisticated and know how to live their own life.

Favorite beauty product?

NUXE and Annick Goutal.

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JEWELRY

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WHO’S Showing

DANIEL RAINN Daniel Norzagaray, Design & Creative Director, Booth: 2940, Level 3 What colors were you drawn to for Fall?

I can’t stop obsessing over what I call tandoori. It’s a rusty, reddish, washed-out clay color with a hint of vibrant coral coming through. It’s flattering on nearly everyone.

You live in Silver Lake. Would you say it's more hipster than Brooklyn?

Absolutely not! You can’t get more hipster than Brooklyn.

How does L.A. influence your designs?

California girls have always demanded versatility in their wardrobes, so giving them the ability to get dressed for work in the morning and meet their friends out after work without going home to change is the core of what we do.

SUZI ROHER

ANDREW MARC

Suzi Roher, Designer & President Booth: 3622, Level 3 Give us the details on Fall, please!

I went back to my roots and made a lot of belts with metal. That’s what we're famous for, after all!

What exclusive items can we expect from you at the show?

Take a look at our oversized zipper belt and our multiple-strand studded belt.

What colors were you drawn to for the collection?

Besides black, I always do color themes. Right now, I love the greens, dark reds, and rusts. I also bought in a lot of distressed textured metallics.

Where do you get your fashion news from?

Mostly in Paris and Milan, the shops, the street, and the shows I attend.

European magazines are also fun to tune in to: French, German, Italian, Spanish, Russian, and English, they all reflect a different view of fashion.

Tanya Spivey, EVP Design Booth: 6020, Level 3 What was the Fall inspiration?

The inspiration stems from the empowered woman conquering this urban jungle—think Planet of the Apes meets Game of Thrones!

What exclusive collabs can we look forward to this season?

A more extensive look into Andrew Marc x Richard Chai, including pieces that were styled for the runway, with an emphasis on sportswear styles and heritage outerwear.

How many coats do you have hanging in your closet at the moment?

My closets at home and at work are full, and I have three rolling racks in storage full of coats!

The last movie you enjoyed?

I recently saw American Hustle. Don’t be surprised to see lots of ’70s inspiration in the near future!

SIWY Jen Neumeister, Creative Director & Head Designer Booth: 6214, Level 3 What colors were you drawn to this season?

Fifty shades of indigo, dark cherry, and faded army green.

Of all the features that make denim what it is, which is the most important?

The yarn-dyed twill that allows for character to be born and aged over time.

Where’s the most formal place you’ve ever worn denim?

I wore denim to my last job interview!

What shoes pair best with this season’s denim?

Combat boots or very shallow stilettos that expose some toe cleavage.

Which people in history seriously rocked their jeans?

James Dean, Marilyn Monroe, and Kate Moss.

What’s your slogan?

Perfectly imperfect.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

MYSTIQUE Danielle Levy, Sales and Marketing Booth: 6620, Level 3 How do your sandals stand out from other shoes?

Our sandals are all handmade using 100 percent leather soles and uppers. We also use the best quality of glass stones and Czech crystals.

Where does the name of the brand come from?

Mystique got its name from the mystical island of Bali.

Where do your sandals feel most at home?

Our sandals feel right everywhere! They can be worn on the beach or out on the town for a day of shopping.

Last season you told us about your home collection. How’s that going?

It’s doing well! Every piece is made with love, and we keep our collection unique and one-of-a-kind.

ELIZABETH McKAY N E W Y O R K

v i s i t u s a t b o o t h 8 2 4 0

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Booth #1846

CHIC Prez

As 13,000 buyers flood into New York for the city’s high profile Coterie show, ENK president Tom Nastos reveals some of his best trade secrets.

BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY

BY GIORGIO NIRO

The FuTure Is

BrIghT!

What’s going on in the world of trade shows?

Just like everything else, the retail world is becoming more digital and people are looking to be much more productive. The digital world helps you shop more effectively, work in a more precise manner, and I think that’s what retailers are looking for. Fashion is always about newness: new brands, new opportunities, and new designs. And that’s what motivates retailers to come to the show.

How is ENK adapting?

ENK’s vision is always evolving, especially alongside the fashion marketplace. Every year the show’s becoming more global on both the retailer and buyer side. We see a continuing expansion of people coming to the show from new markets.

Which emerging markets are most vibrant for you right now?

Moscow, Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Uzbekistan, and FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Kazakhstan. We also have more Asian buyers than ever: Japan, Korea, China, and Singapore. Coterie is really becoming an international event with brands and buyers from all over the world.

Coterie has gone global...

I always say that fashion has no borders; whether buyers are coming from the Middle East or Southeast Asia, they know the brands and their consumers know them, too.

You’re a big tech guy. Any new advances?

This year we’ll have curated music during Coterie and we’ll be distributing that music to all of our buyers. We’re also launching a Coterie channel that provides 24 hours of music to all our retailers and exhibitor partners.

Are these tunes scientifically proven to increase sales?

Coterie Music will follow the mood and the

temperament of the show. There’s a beginning, a middle, an afternoon boost, and a big finish. It’s an incredible success for us, and it’s part of the environment. In the future we’ll have guest DJs take on the music.

And how does the lunch selection get picked?

We actually spend quite a few months working through the menu and fine tuning it until it works for our group. We work with our catering groups, look at the menus and taste the food over and over to make sure it’s perfect. We go through dozens of options, because we have to balance out the needs of thousands of people who are eating breakfast and lunch.

If you were a retailer, how would you work the floor?

I would look at my key suppliers first and have appointments with them to see what they’re doing, what’s new, and what their purchases might be.

I would save time to talk to new and emerging brands, because so many retail companies that are quite large today launched as small labels at Coterie.

Do you have plans to increase sections like TMRW to heighten awareness of up-and-coming brands?

We always want to have new brands, and ideally each year we add 10 to 12 percent to the show.

The TMRW section is for young designers that we choose to invest in. We nurture them, support them in the business, and provide them with a marketplace in which they can grow.

What was your first gig in the fashion industry?

My first job was working for a manufacturer on Park Avenue and 27th Street when I was 17. Initially, I was helping with inventory control, which was all manually written in books at the time.

What are the most significant changes you’ve witnessed throughout your career?

The speed to market and technology has totally changed the supply chain. Everything that’s transpired with the internet, connectivity, and communication systems has changed the consumers’ expectations. They have much more knowledge today; they know what they want and exactly how to get it.

It’s been a little over a year since Advanstar acquired ENK. How’s it going?

Working with Advanstar has enabled us to provide greater opportunities for our retailers and exhibitors. The amount of data and information between the MAGIC group, Advanstar, and ENK is huge, and we benefit greatly. We analyze and utilize that data to better the industry and improve what we offer to our retailers and attendees.

What are the do’s and don’ts of trade show management?

You have to be patient and a good listener. You want to analyze and reflect the marketplace, so listen carefully and take action on what you hear. Always be open to adjustments, and learn to take criticism.

Don’t apply your personal opinion or try to shape anything with your feelings.

What’s your favorite part of The Daily Coterie?

I’ve always enjoyed that The Daily showcases a different side of the fashion industry. We don’t take ourselves all too seriously, and neither does The Daily. It’s a great way to convey fashion news and information, and at the same time have some fun with it. It’s the same at ENK. We’re serious about what we do, but we also want people to have a great time, enjoy themselves, and have a positive experience.

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AUTUMN 2014 Coterie Booth #7135 Javits, Level 3

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Model Nostalgia

SUPER SUMMIT In the fall of 1990, a fledgling designer named Nicole Miller (Booth: 5901, Level 3) brought the biggest girls in the world together on the same stunning runway. BY PAIGE REDDINGER Tell us about your first show. Who walked?

I had Christy Turlington [Burns], Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Gail Elliot, and Yasmin Parvaneh [Le Bon]. It was a great coup to get them all in the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

first show. Kate Moss hadn’t been discovered yet. If I remember, Christy was 21 and Naomi was 19.

How hard was it to cast them?

We had KCD, so it was easy.

What were the girls like? Were there any trouble makers?

It was always like a big party backstage. They were always networking and they were all pretty good

T

walk me down the runway back when people used to do that. We had this great relationship. I never had one iota of difficulty with her, and she was never late.

What was it like having all of them together?

When we booked them it was like, ‘Oh cool!’ Christy Turlington was the last one we got and so we ended up making extra clothes for her. I made two extra dresses for her. We were very excited when we finally got them booked. I’d like to get them all back!

What would it take to get all of them back now?

Probably $50,00 to $100,000 a person.

Wow, really?

Some of these girls charge $50,000 now. Maybe if you’re good friends with them and it’s your anniversary they’ll do you a favor, but you’re not going to get all of those girls collectively to do you a favor.

What were you paying them back then?

The first season they got $500 an hour and they got paid for two-and-a-half hours, because we used to pay for fittings. We don’t pay for fittings anymore.

Eventually, it went up a little bit every year, and then it got to, like, $750. At one point all the models basically boycotted New York because they wanted $2,500 an hour. Then the rates got super huge.

Any fun backstage tales you’d like to share?

Some of the best ones I can’t repeat, but I remember Carla Bruni [Sarkozy] was always great. I remember she was getting fitted in this macramé dress and she was totally nude underneath and all these friends of mine happened to stop by and they were trying to sneak peeks at Carla in her fitting. I still have that macramé dress that Carla wore.

Did the girls get along?

Naomi and Tyra Banks didn’t like each other and we had to make their changing stations on opposite sides.

We were told to keep them apart. Everyone else was cool, though. And even Tyra and Naomi were always very polite to each other. But one time Carrie Otis was breaking up with Mickey Rourke and she said she would only do shows if Mickey wasn’t allowed in.

So we promised we wouldn’t let him in. Would you believe, I get this phone call from some PR guy in Miami saying Mickey’s such a big fan of my work and is dying to come see my show. I’m thinking, Mickey doesn’t know who the hell I am! I just told him the show was over-booked. I mean, I would have loved to have Mickey at my show. He was really hot back then. Meanwhile, Carrie’s at the show going, ‘Is he out there? Please, tell me he’s not out there!’

Who was the most professional?

Linda Evangelista. It didn’t matter if the shoes hurt.

She would check her shoes, make sure they fit, and if they didn’t fit right she would do something to make them fit. If you want the coat off, if you want the coat on—whatever.

When did you start working with Kate Moss?

It’s funny, because I always pride myself on noticing the superstars when they come in for castings, like Maria Carla Boscono. I just knew she was going to be a star. But Kate Moss showed up very timidly in these baggy jeans and a t-shirt kind of thing. It was 1993. We really didn’t notice her. Then she shows up in Vogue a month later. We didn’t end up getting her until 1994.

What did you think when you saw her in Vogue?

I was like, ‘Oh my god! This girl is so amazing. We have to get this girl!’ One of my assistants said, ‘Don’t you remember she came for casting?’ I’m like, ‘That girl?’

So I thought, ‘I have to get her for the next show.’ She always walked beautifully.

Was she timid when she was doing your show?

No, she was timid then, because she had literally just landed in New York. She had just done that shoot in London with Corrine Day. She had no editorial out yet in New York and was doing castings for her first

season. I was really kicking myself over that one.

Were there a lot of drugs backstage in those days?

Not that I ever saw. I don’t know where they would have. There was one girl at one show that seemed a little wasted. That was about ’94.

Were you scared to let her on the catwalk?

No, but it’s funny if you look at the video she was wearing this dress that had a clingy slip under it. When you see the video she has the slip on backwards, but you can’t really tell because it’s one of those necklines that could be either way. The camera never goes past her waist and I have a feeling the whole skirt rode up and the cameraman just decided to crop it there. She totally gets lost weaving on the runway.

No one said anything about it after the show?

No, but that one went to rehab. There were several of them that went to rehab.

What gives someone that certain star quality?

The walk really is key. The girls with a great walk you always pay more attention to. Of course they have a pretty face, but also body proportion.

Is personality ever a factor?

Not particularly. Every once in awhile these girls come and they’re like, ‘Hi! I’m Caitlyn!’ and they eagerly shake your hand and you look at them and you’re like, ‘Okay, too much personality.’ Maybe personality has

“

friends. Back then all the models used to smoke! You never see anybody smoking anymore. We also used to serve champagne backstage.

Why do you think that atmosphere has disappeared?

The models weren’t as young then. There was an occasional one that was younger, but a lot of times the girls were like 19 to 21. I even had girls that were over 25. They all seem so clean cut now and their mothers show up with them. The average age is 17. The Eastern European girls are so hell bent on making a better life for themselves that they just aren’t partiers. If you offered them champagne they wouldn’t have it. I feel like models used to be a little more badass.

Who had the biggest personality? Naomi?

She was in every show of mine for years. She used to

Some of these girls charge $50,000 now.

Maybe if you’re good friends with them and it’s your anniversary they’ll do you a favor, but you’re not going to get all of those girls collectively to do you a favor. helped them in photo shoots or dealing with other people, but it’s never really an issue with us. You have to see how they walk, how they look in clothes, how they hold their shoulders and carry themselves.

How does full on supermodel status materialize?

I think sometimes it’s just very circumstantial. There are certain looks that work one year and don’t the next. Sometimes girls are too pretty. They look more like a TV star, like those sort of too pretty blondes.

Christy Turlington really has distinctive looks; she’s not the ordinary pretty face and neither is Linda Evangelista. Kate Moss’s look is very special and she can be made to look so many different ways. She looks good from every angle.

Have you had anyone that has walked for you that became really big that you were surprised about?

We had Lindsey Wixson one season and I really liked her, but the next season my stylist hated her. So we didn’t use her and then we used her the next season.

Of course, she’s impossible to get now. I thought she was pretty special with those pouty lips.

Do you think there will ever be another supermodel pack like Naomi, Christy, Carla, Linda, etc.?

No, because there are too many models. In the beginning, there just weren’t all these countries sending their models here. First it was the girls from Brazil. Now there’s Russia, China, and Korea. I don’t think you’re ever going to have that personality dynamic again. They were the real superstars.

COURTESY NICOLE MILLER

CHIC Tech

Completely FLOORED Coterie is going high-tech with Shop The Floor, an online component that extends your days at the trade show into a year-round experience. Mike Alic, VP of Strategy at Advanstar, gives The Daily the inside scoop. BY DENA SILVER

What is Shop The Floor?

It’s an online marketplace for the wholesale fashion industry that connects brands and retailers so that they can thrive off of communication, connections, and commerce.

How does it work?

Fashion brands create digital showrooms on their own websites. They upload photos and information on their products, along with descriptions about their brand’s heritage. In turn, qualified retailers come and visit these digital showrooms.

Who makes the qualified retailer cut?

Only retailers who’ve been through the qualifying process to attend one of our trade shows as a buyer will have access to the Shop The Floor site.

Will it impact the need for face time at trade shows?

People use Shop The Floor to plan their visits, so they can figure out which brands are of greatest interest. It allows for a little pre-show communication, and appointment-setting activities. It’s also a good follow-up tool to finalize an order if it wasn’t closed at the trade show. Some retailers use Shop The Floor to take notes on what they see at the trade show, so they don’t have to collect every piece of literature and take millions of pictures.

How’s the sign-up process?

People who are exhibitors and buyers at our trade shows can sign up. Brands have to ask their customer service rep for a username and password. Once they get that, they sign in and start building their showroom. If they don’t have time, we have a dedicated customer service team that can actually build a showroom for them. Retailers just go to Shop The Floor, hit the login button, and use their registered email address for our trade shows to get into the site.

Can any retailer view any showroom?

The retailer has to send a connection request to a brand explaining who they are, their store name, and the product they’re interested in. The brand and the retailer can then trade profile information. When they’re both happy to discuss doing business together, the connection is accepted. At that point, the retailer can see the brand’s wholesale pricing and start putting together and delivering an order.

Can buyers pay through the site?

The brands get to decide if they want to accept PayPal or credit cards. They can also set up their account to offer cash on delivery or require cash in advance. The site keeps track of shipping dates, collection launch dates, how long orders will be accepted, when delivery dates will start, and when shipping has occurred. It’s like e-commerce for wholesale.

Does human error get minimized thanks to Shop The Floor?

Hopefully, yes. The ordering process that’s been in place for FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

dozens of years has lots of room for error. People make mistakes when they write down orders by hand. Shop The Floor eliminates that, leaving no room for ambiguity about what size or color was written down.

Have sales increased thanks to the site?

We’re getting great feedback. We’ve had a lot of people tell us that they’ve delivered more sales and found new customers. There’s been a lot of anecdotal evidence that Shop The Floor has created connections between brands and retailers, giving new leads or proposing new business.

How many people have signed up with Shop The Floor so far?

There are about 400 brands with over 10,000 products, and several thousand retailers.

Who were your earliest adopters?

They’ve tended to be smaller, progressive brands.

They tend to be run by people who are younger and digitally native—the whole idea of setting up photos and managing it online comes naturally to them.

Generally, they’re brands that are open to new ideas.

What about on the retailer side?

It’s pretty much the same thing. A few weeks ago, we had over 100 retailers from Zappos.com sign up, so in general our retailers have been pretty active.

An example of a Shop The Floor success story, please!

A footwear company garnered around 10 new retailers, which generated thousands of new orders.

What’s the best way to sign up?

There will be people at the show wearing Shop The Floor T-shirts with iPads demonstrating the product.

Just ask one of them!

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CHIC Moves

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L.a. MoMEnT

With Hollywood in full Oscars frenzy, we caught up with Coterie darling Yoana Baraschi, whose star following is growing by the minute. Guess who’s dressing Olivia Wilde, Katy Perry and the all-time doyenne of chic, Heidi Klum?

BY DENA SILVER PHOtOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO Who was the first celeb to wear your clothes?

Heidi Klum wore a dress of ours on an episode of Project Runway about 10 years ago. We didn’t have any PR at the time. I don’t even know how it got to her; I guess it was just beginner’s luck! Heidi is our favorite!

What was the impact of that moment?

It created excitement and gave impetus to the sales people and salesforce! I can’t put a number on it, but it certainly created positive energy and excitement around the collection.

Who else has worn your designs?

Dita Von Teese, Katy Perry, Zooey Deschanel, Katie Holmes, Lauren Conrad, Taylor Swift, and more.

What looks do the celebs gravitate towards?

They like iconic dresses, which are usually very special, like a little cocktail dress that’s multifunctional. It might be embroidered or embellished with a special technique, but it’s not an occasion dress, or a super casual one. It’s the kind of dress you want to wear when you have a special moment in your life—a red carpet event, a date, or a movie screening.

When your team notices that there’s a celeb wearing your clothes, what’s the next step?

We try to post about it on social media, and at the same time we send out an email blast to our showrooms so they can reach out to their own contacts.

After that, do you notice a bump in sales?

Yes, especially in digital sales. And then, stores start to call in and say that they want the specific garment that the celeb wore.

How important is it for celebs to don your frocks?

It’s not something I chase at all, but I’m very flattered when they discover the collection on their own. Many stars who’ve worn the brand weren’t solicited by us,

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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The way Cate Blanchett wears clothing is so inspiring.

but they walked into Encore Malibu or Billy’s in Tarzana and discovered our designs on their own.

Any actresses that are muses for your work?

The way Cate Blanchett wears clothing is so inspiring.

Which celebs would you love to dress?

Scarlett Johansson and Rihanna!

Is there such a thing as bad press?

The only time I wasn’t super happy was when a certain actress wore one of our black and white scarves to court!

You’ve teamed up with Olivia Wilde and Barbara Burchfield’s philanthropic company, Conscious Commerce, to sell a dress at Anthropologie. How did it go?

We sold the dresses, and signed a check for $100,000 to the charity in Calcutta.

They’re opening a school with the money, I plan to visit this summer.

What kinds of Yoana looks does Olivia like?

She loves pieces that apply to her daily life; she probably has quite a number of my jackets by now!

Any other charity plans?

This year we’re working with GEMS, which helps girls who have been affected by sexual trafficking. We thought that we needed to put a light on the fact that this is happening in the U.S. How was your Fashion Week?

We had a pre-Fashion Week presentation. It was a preview on models and we did a collaboration with makeup company Inglot. This season we’re doing a Fall photoshoot with Chelsea Leyland, photographed by Greg Harris. Comic book artist Sanya Anwar will collaborate with Greg to put the storyline in a comic book format!

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CHIC Designer

The TIBI

Touch

Tibi founder Amy Smilovic has found her sweet spot somewhere between the Connecticut ‘burbs, her posse of strong female friends, and a killer Soho-based Ready-to-Wear business.

BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

How was Tibi born?

It started in 1997. I was based in Hong Kong, and I really wanted my own company. When it began, Tibi had a strong business approach and I created it to fill a niche for easy, cotton-printed clothing. As the business grew, I really wanted to make clothing that represents what I love, rather than satisfying a market niche.

What does your Fall collection look like?

There are a few plays on the classics going on, and a lot about comfort, coziness, and practicality. We’re featuring tonal dressing and a lot of blazers and jackets. The collection has a bit more of a romantic feel than I normally do.

Why is that?

It just felt right. I hate to make up answers. As a female, you just know what feels right!

Love that! Who are your female besties in the biz?

I’m very close friends with Beth Bugdaycay, who’s the CEO at Rebecca Taylor. I’m also close with women in media, like Gloria Baume from Teen Vogue and Kate Snow at NBC. I gravitate towards women who are moms, because we can relate. It makes for a nice support group!

Does the fashion industry empower women?

It bums me out, because the U.S. is not that supportive of female designers.

But, internationally, female designers rule the world! Between Phoebe [Philo] at Céline, Clare Waight Keller at Chloé, and Gucci’s Frida Giannini, it’s such a women-centric business overseas. Women in the U.S. need to stick together.

You’ve been expanding your line slowly—first clothes, now shoes. Why is that?

It’s not so much about a branding strategy; it’s more of a survival strategy.

Trying to be everything at once and getting into too many categories can really kill a company. Being very focused, from a business perspective, has made sense.

Anything you’d like to add to the line in the next few seasons?

I’d love to do bags when it’s the right time. The woman who wears Tibi carries a designer bag, so we have to design a bag she’s willing to put into the mix. We’ve got someone working on designs. We haven’t seen it yet, but it’s in the works!

We’ll know it when we see it.

Does living in Connecticut factor into your style?

I was born in the Midwest, I grew up in the South, and I live in the Northeast. My home is in the suburbs, but I work in Soho, and my husband’s European, so it’s a bit of everything! It’s important to be exposed to different things all the time.

How much of your personal style is translated into the clothing?

My personal style is so critical to Tibi. We try to develop things very early on, so I can road test it and see if I’ll really wear it or if I’ll look ridiculous.

So on any given day you might be wearing a sample?

Oh yeah, definitely. Sometimes I’ll wear seven different outfits in one day!

How important is social media for Tibi?

It’s really important. If I’m on [my iPhone] and I see that Elin Kling is wearing something I like, I’m only two swipes away from buying it. When you’re promoting any product, putting it close to someone’s fingertips makes it a critical outpost for marketing.

Do bloggers have a big impact on your sales?

If Olivia Palermo wears something, it will sell out the next day. Leandra [Medine]’s the same way. For us, bloggers are just new personalities, so when we’re designing something, we really think ‘Would Leandra wear it? Would Miroslava [Duma] wear it?’ It helps us figure out who the audience is.

Editors adore clothes as well. Do bloggers and eds end up wearing the same styles?

They definitely gravitate toward the same pieces. They both want things that are either really special, or easy and not-so-special. They want pieces they can throw on, but they need to be really well-made, too. Our tank tops are huge!

SIWY FALL14

chic Sac

HIDE & CHIC Jill haber’s eponymous collection features exotic skins, bright pops of colors, holographic prints, and flashes of Lucite. Are you drooling yet? BY DENA SiLVER PhOTOGRAPhY BY GiORGiO NiRO

“

We’ve got skin in the game, pun intended!

What you were doing before you started designing handbags?

When I graduated college I wanted to be an art director at a Madison Avenue firm. I worked in advertising and then I left to work for a children’s book publishing company. I moved my way up the ladder and ended up running a company in that field for a couple of years.

How did you get into handbag design?

It was really pretty organic. My grandmother was a super welldressed woman and she was an inspiration for me. I have many of her vintage bags, so two years ago I started designing bags based on some of her pieces.

Tell us more about your chic grandma!

She was a fashion icon for me and she always looked grand. She would walk into a room and people would notice how put together she was. She didn’t save anything for a special occasion because she thought life was a special occasion. She would wear an evening bag and beautiful jewelry during the day. Because of that, my brand’s mantra is ‘Life is short, wear your handbag.’

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

How many of her handbags do you have?

I just poached things over the years and when she passed away, that’s when I took a lot of things and kind of catalogued her pieces. In addition to her handbags, I have some of her old suit jackets, and fur collars.

So how many handbags are in your closet?

A lot! That’s all I’ll say!

Walk us through the creation of a purse.

I make a sketch, then I take newspaper and I cut out a pattern to visualize the shape and size of the bag. Then we do technical drawings, which will tell a hardware maker exactly what we’re looking for; how we’re attaching the skin to the bag, and where the hardware goes. Because I make my hardware overseas, my drawings have to be super specific since things can easily get lost in translation. When the hardware and the skins arrive, I have my factory in New York City make a dummy bag out of some kind of felt or cheap leather so we can really see how it looks. Once everything is perfect and all the tweaks are worked out, we go into production and

actually use our skin.

Where do the skins come from?

All of my skins are sourced from my trips to Italy. I have a small office in Scandicci, Italy, where we have two amazing people on the ground working for us. And they speak perfect English!

You use the most amazing skins.

I’m not just going to go and buy any skin. I really take the time to source the best skins that I can find. We try to make them our own and put our personal touch on them, with things like silk overlay, laser cuts or a specific dye and pattern.

Which snakes are the skins from?

They’re all what I consider to be exotics. We can’t sell python in the state of California so we source other snakeskins, like karung and elaphe.

There’s also rubberized python in addition to regular python.

Are you introducing any materials aside from snakeskin?

We’re incorporating haircalf in beautiful colors and laser cuts.

Instead of just plain leather, we’ve embellished it so it has a beautiful look for the nighttime. We’ve used wood gussets before, but now we’re incorporating some Lucite, and some

natural mica. We also have mirrored gussets, so when you’re out at night, you can use your bag to discreetly fix your lipstick.

What can you fit in a Jill Haber bag?

The bags are pretty generous. I test everything myself when we’re at the dummy stage, so I make sure you can fit your iPhone, a pair of glasses, and at least two tubes of lipstick. The smaller ones have a pocket so you can carry a credit card and cash.

How has the line expanded from your first season?

When I first started we had only two evening bags, and I name all my bags for men. We started out with our Sebastian and the Niles, then we had a wrap clutch in two different sizes: the Edward and the Evan. We’ve got quite a lot of fellas now! We’ve added some more clutches and we have more evening bags; some with top handles, some without any handles, and some with shoulder chains. We’ve also added quite a few day bags to our collection and cross-body bags for this coming fall.

You can really see the evolution between seasons.

We’re really trying! And we’ve got skin in the game, pun intended!

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