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INSTRUCTION BOOK

CONTENTS Features and Parts Sewlight Installing Head into Cabinet Setting the Needle Winding the Bobbin Threading the Bobbin Case Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle Upper Thread Setting the Stitch Length Sewing in Reverse Adjusting the Tensions Adjusting Pressure and Feeding of fabric Preparing to Sew Removing the Work Regulating Width of Zig-Zag Stitch Automatic Sewing Sewing Designs The Zipper Foot & To Make Cording with Zipper Foot Embroidering With a Hoop Darning Making Buttonholes Sewing on Buttons How to Use Accessories Care and Maintenance of Your Machine Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle Check Up for Smooth Sewing Needle and Thread Sizes

2 3 3 4 4 5 6 7 8 8 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

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Pushbutton darner Thread take up lever Upper arm thread guide Arm cover Zigzag width indicator Zigzag width knob

8 Spool pin 9 Zigzag width limiting knob 10 Bobbin winder release levet 11 Bobbin winder shaft 12 Bobbin winder push plate 13 Balance wheel (hand wheel)

Bobbin winder rubber wheel Pushbutton stitch reverse Stitch length indicator Stitch length knob Drop feed knob Bobbin winder thread guide Bed-plate Vertical arm Needle clamp screw Needle clamp Needle Hinged presser foot Feed dog Slide plate Presser foot thumb screw Presser bar Face plate thread guides Thread retainer bar Calibrated thread tension dial Thread take-up spring Face plate Automatic stitch cam pull lid

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Ii wt 9 Se h at the front side The lamp housing is located (Fig. 1). of the arm under the face plateed at the back locat is knob ch swit The light To switch on the light, side of the face plate. clockwise or counter knob turn the light-switch light, turn the clockwise. To switch off thecounter-clockwise. or wise clock knob tch light-swi bulb with a new In order to replace a burnt Out, unscrew the old plate face ed one, open the hing one. Bulbs (15w) bulb and screw in a new department stores rs, deale at ined obta be may and electrical stores.

Sewing Switch knob Fig. 1

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the holes in the rear edge Loosen the two hinge screws under 2) . of the machine bed. (Fig cutout. Slip machine head 2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet s securely’ on to the pins and tighten hinge screw flap. et cabin front to head 3. Lower machine

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turning See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar to its highest point, wheel toward you by hand. can be Then loosen the needle clamp screw and the needle in the right) to side (flat needle Place inserted into clamp. the into go will it as far as upward it push needle clamp and ly secure screw needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp with a screw driver.

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g mecha Disengage the hand wheel (Fig. 4) from the stitchin wise. r-clock counte or you nism by turning the clutch toward thread lead pin, spool the on thread Place a spool of h throug down and arm, the on guide thread through the upper end Run e. machin the tension disc (Fig. 5) at the base of the place bobbin of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and bobbin over on notch the fitting , winder bobbin of on spindle t hand wheel. agains winder small pin on spindle. Push bobbin . slowly e machin start and loosely end Hold thread away Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch that so d engage again is nism mecha sewing from you until wheel. needle moves when you turn the hand Break off loose thread end used to start the winding.

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Before threading the bobbin case, study Fg. 6, 7 & 8 to get a general idea as to how it is done.

1. Hold the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into the bobbin case with your right, leav ing about two inches of the thread end unwound (Fig. 6). As the bobbin is being inserted in the bobbin case, the thread flow, you will note, in clockise (Fig. 6).

2. While holding the bobbin case as before, grasp the thread end with the right hand, guide it into the cross slot (Fig. 7).

3. Then pull it throught under the tension spring of the bobbin case (Fig. 7) until it enters the delivery eye (Fig. 8).

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Fig. 7

Fig. 8

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er bar lifter.

1. Raise the presser bar by lifting the press tion by turning the 2. Raise the needle bar to its highest posi balance wheel toward you. point (Fig. 9).

3. Open hinged slide plate to its highest between the thumb 4 Hold the bobbin case latch (Fig. 10) least three inches and forefinger of the left hand, with at in case to the of thread running from the top of the bobb the stud of on right. Insert and center the bobbin case

case finger is the shuttle body. Be sure the bobbin bobbin case the s Pres h. opposite the shuttle race notc catches on latch until ible poss into the shuttle as far as tle. shut the center post of the s bobbin case 5. THEN release the bobbin case latch, Pres e sure the mak To again after latch has been released. the cover e Clos . place in bobbin case is locked securely plate.

Fig. 10

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Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position. (Fig. 11) Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

Lead the thread through the upper arm thread guide.

Run the thread down through the thread guide bar to the ten sion discs, then around and between them from right to left.

Draw the thread up through the check spring and with a slight tug into the hook. (See insert, Fig. 11) Pass the thread under the bar and up through the eye of the take-up lever from right to left.

Lead thread down through the lower thread and then through the needle bar guide from the back.

Thread needle FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, drawing it through about 3 or 4 inches.

Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle goes all the way down and comes back up.

A loop will be formed over the upper thread which then can be pulled out straight. Place both thread ends under the slot of the presser foot and draw toward the back of the machine, leaving both threads three or four inches long.

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The length of the stitch is regulated by the knob, is the Fig. 12. Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 4 n betwee spot any at set be may knob longest, but the to the knob the Turn s. length of variety markings for a left to lengthen and to the right to shorten the stitch.

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When you wish to sew backward, to tie the the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press e machin The go. will button in Fig. 12, as far as it in. is held button the as will sew backward as long

4dIs1 t’he Tee.zs down, as Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot increase To raised. is it when the tension is automatically released to the right, or the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) number on clockwise. To decrease turn to the left. The higher tension lower ng adjusti Before . tension the dial the tighten the ly. proper be sure that the machine is threaded turn small screw When necessary to change the bobbin tension, counte r-clockwise , tighten to ise clockw case bobbin the on side of to loosen.

Fg. 13

9 When the upper and under tensions are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 14).

When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 15).

When the under tension is too libt, the upper thread from loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16).

Fig. 14 Correct Stitch Fig. 15 Needle Thread Tension too strong

A Fig. 16

Needle Thred Tension too weak

Fig. 17

9 P4easae and 4?eedn o 41a4zic z 4 4djssEi GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and zigzag stitching, the pressure bar cap or darner release, Fig. 17, is at its lowest position and the drop feed release knob, Fig. 18, is Turn to the right “N�.

Fig. 18

10 SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS. When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, A, Fig. 17, and then press cap B Fig. 19 down again to halfway spot. The Drop feed knob pointer (Fig. 18) should be at the middle of indicator “S”.

DARNING AND MONOGRAMING. In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain kinds of free. hand embroidery, release the pressure cap B completely by pressing down on the snap lock, A, Fig. 17. Turn the Drop feed knob to the left, “E” which drops the feed well below the needle plate. To return feed to normal, the Drop feed knob turn to the right “N”.

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11 Hold the end of the upper-thread with the left hand, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle.

Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the needle bar to its highest position.

Pull the thread you are holding, as the lower th.read will be brought up with it through the hole in the needle plate, as shown Fig. 20.

Place both ends of the upper and lower thread to the back of the presser foot Fig. 21.

Now, place material to be sewn beneath the presser foot and lower the presser foot. Start sewing by slowly turning the balance wheel in direction toward you while gradually working the foot or knee control. cause it to DO NOT TRY to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and break. ALWAYS TURN BALANCE WHEEL TOWARD YOU!

sh “14J ’ Ihe 0 located at the Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are

threads over highest position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and pass the the needle. bend the thread cutter. Pull down slightly, holding thread in both hands, so as not to Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot.

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knob (Fig. 22). By turning the The width of the zigzag stitch is regulated by the zigzag width width window will move from zigzag zigzag width knob, the zigzag width indicator appearing in the to set the desired zigzag order In ingly. accord e increas will O—4 and the width of the zigzag stitch side of the zigzag te back to d attache lever g limitin width zigzag the use stitch, of the zigzag width knob, you zigzag the with er togeth lever g limitin width knob. By turning the zigzag width width. zigzag can set your desired the zigzag width knob.

In order to revert to the previously used zigzag width, turn only

Fig. 22

44omaĂź Sew CALLY with Your machine can sew beautiful stitches AUTOMATI discs. sew 24 automatic these instructions To insert a zigzag disc into the machine, follow 1. Pull lid A) open. and keep it 2. Turn zigzag width dial B to the extreme right, there during insertion. it slips down and 3. Insert disc into axle C. Turn disc untildisc. in (B hole enters D, the retaining pin 4. Release dial (B 5. Close lid cA to the right and pull To remove the disc, open the lid. turn dial B disc up. r design.

Now you can insert another disc to produce anothe Fig. 23

(Cams attached to the machine

Cam No. 1

Cam No.13

Cam No. 2

Cam No.14

Cam No. 3

Cam No.15

Cam No. 4

Cam No.16

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Cam No. 5

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Cam No. 8

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Cam No. 9

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The zipper foot can be readily adjusted to either the right or left side of the slide fastener.

Loosen the screw “A” (Fig, 24a & 24b) and slide the foot into desired position. Adjust the needle position as required to make the stitching close to the zipper teeth.

Needle plate should be in zig-zag sewing position and use zig-zag presser foot, so that needle position can be changed freely.

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Cut a true bias strip of fabric wide enough to go over the cord and allow for a seam, usually 1” to 2” depending on size of the cord. Place cord inside the bias and place it under the foot so Stitch the fabric as close as possible to the cord without that the seam edges are to the left. catching it.

Gently stretch the bias as you sew (Fig. 24c).

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Fig. 24a

Fig. 24b

Fig. 24c

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It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work free hand when c’mbroidering or monogramming. (See Fig. 25). Release the pressure from the foot by pressing down the snap lock on the automatic darner. Push the drop feed button to down position.

Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle after removing the presser foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefere and lower the presser bar lifter.

Then operate the machine at a rather high speed while moving the hoop slowly both hands. Work carefull and be sure to keep fingers out of the path of the needle.

Release pressure from foot and drop feed as directed above. and Place fabric to be mended under foot, and stitch around hole, moving the fabric firmiy stitching the completing outward, center from slowly in any direction. To fill in the hole, stitch in fabric.

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Mahi#q &th$.sihales This type of Buttonhole Foot can be used for buttonhole and also zigzag sewing.

First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on babric Make one on scrap fabric with a basing line or tailor’s chalk. (following directions below) to be sure machine adjustments are correct.

1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply underneath to prevent piling up of the thread (See Fig. 26.

2. Look the stitch width between 1 and 2, and set the stitch length near 0.

Fig. 26 3. Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating the beginning of buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 27, stopping machine with needle in fabric at right side of stitching.

4. Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot, o turn the fabric end for end.

M 5. Lower presser foot and turn hand wheel just enough s T 1 T to raise needle out of fabric.

T L £ £ 6. Drop feed knob turn to the left and move zigzag El P P T P knob to 4. While holding the knob at 4 width, take P £ five or six stitches to form bar tack, step 2, Fig. 26, 3.

2 1 7. Raise needle out of fabric and return feed to “UP’ position and let stitch width dial return to 2.

Fig. 27 8. Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3.

9. Make bar tack by repeating 5 and 6 above (step 4). raveling.

10. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and prevent Cut the buttonhole opening with a seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitching.

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al, place tarlatan or paper which can be turn If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft materi make several buttonholes on scraps of away after stitching, under the fabric. And it is always wise to t. garmen the fabric before working on

(See Fig. 28) 1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. n. positio 2. Drop feed to down e left. Place the button so that its left hole 3. Move zigzag width dial to ‘0’ position or to the extrem presser foot. Move the zigzag outer dial the comes directly under the needle, then gently lower right hole of the button. to the right until the needle come exactly over the the needle clears both holes of the button. sure be to hand by slowly wheel Turn the balance place. in lock Correct width if neccessary, then run the machine at medium speed, making five 4. When needle goes into the center of each hole, left hole. or six stitches, stopping with the needle in the stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches 5. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent raveling. set the d toothpick rounde a place If you wish you may in the same hole. fabric in to button sew and holes, two the n over the button, betwee button, upper thread wind and regular way. Remove the toothpick forming a shank. Fasten. holes, hooks Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four and snaps, etc.

If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same procedure above for the two hole button.

Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the remaining two holes.

Kooks, snaps, etc.. are sewn to the fabric with the same procedure as for sewing two hole buttons.

Fig. 28

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NARROW HEMMER. Wh .

(Fig mer hem with narrow replace regular presser efooa t 1/8 inch double fold for about two inches plain narrow hem’ makeach end of the two inch fold, slip underneath w foward to along of fabric. Hold to the scroll of hemmer, dra hemmer. Bring fold upntinof needle. Lower presser bar lifter. Gently end and fasten with poi you stitching. pull ends of threads as htly to right, and it will automatically take a ;g 22 Guide material slig ll. ch lace atta and double turn through scro hem row nar a sew hem as LACE TRIMMED HEM. in To the slot next to needle. ll.Sew lace scro in one stitching, insert und into er needle and hem above, guiding lace in INVISIBLE STITCHING. Hold lace 1/8 inch TH WI GE ED CE LA in scroll as for side of fabric. Insert both lace . Press lace from raw edge On right hem in sew and r roll ove plain narrow hem. Leth hem turned up. It is possible to have a out flat along edge wit feeding it freely under scroll. little fullness in lace byWith right sides together, place top piece of FRENCH SEAM. rt in hemmer scroll edge of lower piece. Inse making French WRE HOOK material 1/8 inch insideove ric, fab top r and sew in allowing hem to roll p ig. 30 and insert rolled seam.

Open out French seamflat .

FLAT FELLED SEAM. Edg m sea lay to tch esti es wide enough to catch both edg edge in scroll of hemmer. a narrow zigzag stitch. just Use T. EC EFF D LLE RO HAND stitching is attached by placing the of the narrow, rolled hem. for making parallel rowst of de gui s Thi .

IDE GU mb screw (Fig. 30). thu ING QUILT presser foot and the presser foo pronged holder between the

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Adjust the curved bar to press lightly on the gfabric. succes By letting the guide ride on the first stitchin line, apart. e distanc equal be an will rows sive part is to the When the bar is attached so that the curved width guide. a seam as serve also right of the needle, it may seam gauge SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE. Use the top stitching of as a guide for straight seams and even rows g screw panyin accom with gauge Fasten along edges of fabric. e (Fig. 31). in threaded hole in needle plate or in bed of machin Adjust to seam width desired.

Fig. 31

Ca4e and Afa#deawe o/ ‘41ea Machine HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHiNE i.t operating smoothly.how often depends on Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep do. you the amount of sewing unit at points indicated by arrows in Fig. 32, turn before oiling the upper part of the sewing is at its lowest point. lever hand wheel toward you until the take-up

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Fig, 32

point.

Avoid over oiling. Only a drop is needed at each unit back on its hinges and apply a drop of the tip e, machin the of bed the under To oil parts 32.

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(See Figs. 34 and 35) This The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint: will lint the of removal and Cleaning of machine. the operation efficient with the will interfere safeguard the performance.

To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows: 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its high est position. Tilt head back on its hinges.

2. Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 35.

3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle ra’e cover (C) and shuttle body (D).

Fig. 34 Fig. 35

Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint, etc.

Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle. the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shuttle assembly: Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.

Place shuttle body, (D), against shuttle driver and adjust into position.

Replace shuttle race cover, (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps have been snapped securely into position.

4. Put bobbin into bobbin case.

5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover.

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5.

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ncy, shculd any of the following Although your sewing machine is designed for maximum efficie difficulties occur they can be remedied with minor adjustments.

Upper Thread Breaks Be sure needle is inserted properly.

Check on correct way to thread machine.

Use correct needle size for thread.

Do not have upper tension too tight.

Lower Thread Breaks Check correct method of threading bobbin case.

Be sure lower tension is not too tight.

Needle Breaks eventually break the needle.

Do not tug or pull on the fabric while sewing as this will bend and bar. to d Be sure presser foot is firmly attache Skipped Stitches Do not use a blunt or bent needle.

Insert needle correctly.

Use correct needle size for thread.

Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics.

Stitches Loop d correctly.

Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threade Machine Binds Clean thread, dust and lint from hook, shuttle and race. oil. Apply kerosene to oil If condition continues, it may be that the machine is gummy with with fine sewing machine te again lubrica holes, run rapidly for a while, and wipe dry. Then oil.

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NEEDLE

Sizes & Grades of Needles 0 or 11 (Medium-Fine) ½ or 14

(Medium) 1 or 16 (Light-Heavy) 2 or 18 (Medium-Heavy)

3 or 19 (Heavy) 4or21 (Extra-Heavy)

AND

THREAD

SIZES

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NEEDLE

Type of Fabric and Work to be Done cs.

Medium light-weight and summertime fabri able cotton wash es, dress For house dresses, children’s ins. curta ns, apro dresses, s, draperies, Dress silks and Cottons, light weight woolen gs shin fabric furni men’s shirts, smocks, For general household sewing, fine ratio ns. deco c fabri and eries drap window and quilts. ades broc , Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin ns, heavy apro and cks smo y s, sturd shirt For men’s work gs. shin furni c fabri and quilting canvas, bed ticking, Heavy woven coating, light weig,htslipcover fabrics, upholstery and awning materials made of strong linen For work or sports uniforms, Suits rs and matteresses. or cotton fabrics, awnings, slip cove , ticking, drilling, Heavy woven suiting, coating, duck uniform, bedding canvas and sacking. For heavy wash s. camp and ls hote , supplies for hospitals y goods.

For bags, canvas, coarse cloths and heav

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SIZE OF THREAD Linen Cotton Silk 80 to

0 Twist

60 to 80

A&B Twist

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to 60 10

to 30

Very Coarse

Twist

D Twist E Twist

60 to 80

40 to Printed in Japan