ALTERATIONS and
How
to
Make Them
As Compiled
for the
NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF RETAIL CLOTHIERS by
H.
J.
a
Committee Composed of
Roschi
Frank Musgrave Louis
G.
M. Gray
D.
P. Sullivan
M. Rouda
and Appointed by the
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CLOTHING DESIGNERS
©C!J 192898 APR -3 1918
TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Alterations— Causes and Effects
1
and 2
Shoulders
Extreme High
I
I
6
igh
6
High— Right Low One Low Left
Back
To Lengthen To Shorten
Wide— Small
Chest
Circular Creases
Sl<
5
Square
Arm
8
Below Front
Up Away
Collar Standing
Fullness in Forepart at
Lengthen Collar Longer Back on One (
of Scye
8
Back Bottom
8
at
of
Scye
Low
Crease Swinging to
Cutting
in
(
hitside of
-
11
Leg
11
Seat
10
Forms and Attitudes
9
To Reduce Waist
11
8
Twisted Legs
11
10
Shoulder on
Vest—
Lower Collar Top Button
Too Much Breast
7
Standing
9 8
Standinq-
Away Away
Tight
Bottom Buttons
8
Human Form Attitudes of
Trousers Crease Swinging to Inside of Lee
9
>thei
Tight at
6
9 Side,
Needing More Spring Raise or
6
5
Circular Creases in Front of Scye Collar Riding
6
iping
5
CoatAlterations at Back
7
3
and 4
at
at Side
(
if
Neck
10
from Back of Neck
— Loose
at
10
Waist
Back
Toe Large Too Louse
in
10 in
Front from Waist
in
Front of Scye
Down
9 9
Alterations THE in
The
importance of the alteration department the retail clothing store can scarcely be
And
overestimated.
the
future
sales
tions
good work or
Suppose purchases ti<
in
is
a
does not quite
He becomes
it
And
not
him
fit
The necessary tained
perma-
how
easy
accurately.
result to be ob-
the absolute satisfac-
is
tion of every
smallest
amount
The question scientific
of
alteration.
of alteration
one
is
and requires
expert knowledge and careful
thought.
Knowing
the
this
National Association of Clothing
I
for us in
One
of
many
above
in
the begin-
result.
If not.
arise,
and
that,
if
the
garment
good, leave
is
;
a
The
Alteration Series of the big features
^^
recent
months, in the trade papers, has been of
the
this series of articles in
on the
Bulletin
alteration
of clothing.
national Association of it is
the iron; if
it
work wonders
will
intelligently plied.
Beware
of
bushelman, he penknife
the
''surgeon"
who opens
before
ment's defect. i
The
classed as follows 1.
2.
Horizontal folds.
best
3.
Creases.
work at a minimum
4.
Fullnesses.
alteration
to
do
the
of expense.
principles
alterations ma}" roughly be
if
de-
partment
his
looking care-
who
his
possible
De-
of valuable as-
sistance to the clothier
wishes
a stretch or shrink
if
fully for the cause of the gar-
Prepared by the Intersigners
seam
with the iron will do the trick
ami do not forget your friend,
/\NE
Vertical or upright folds.
Vertical
or
the
results
are
upright of
folds
excessive
widths.
stores
Horizontal folds are caused by excessive lengths.
Creases denote shortness between certain points could be
traced to the inefficiency of this department and is
Take heed
to be
few months.
the big leaks in
altera-
the results will end in disaster.
on alterations
last
properly diagnosed
never-ending series of "corrections" will
and these instructive lessons have been featured
our columns for the
is
will help to achieve the
lesigners have prepared a
series of articles
many
as
good enough alone do not open
customer and yet
should be done with the
this
a
yet
a
to reverse the proceedings
is
it
a satisfied cus-
tomer and no doubt
and
a
and an altera-
fit
Perhaps two changes are
necessary.
made and these alterations are made in a careful and scientific manner and the suit fits well.
nent one.
ning
customer comes into your store and It
the defect
If
inefficiency of this department.
a suit.
make
not to enable one to
tions on a garment, but as few as possible.
of
thousands of dollars of clothing hinges yearly upon the
object of the treatise on the subject of altera-
is
to aid in the reduction of this expense that
we
it
are
They were prepared by
and fullness
is
caused by contraction or tightness.
In other words, fullness at
any part usually
arises
from tightness elsewhere.
the leading clothing designers of the country and
The sketches on the next page will help to make clear these fundamental principles of cause
are the result of vears of careful study and work.
and
publishing these articles.
Pagi On,
effect.
The Fundamentals
of
the Causes and Effects of Alterations These simple illustrations will suggest remedies for most defects Diagram Tint
Horizontal
Diagram Four Will cause fullness at B and tight ness between C and D.
folds show length.
excessive
Diagram Five Creases caused by shortness between
two extreme
points.
Diagram Six well to know that a hollow edge. A-l! will (Diagram A.) fullness on the outer edge.
i
show
Long
T)if\.&-
When
Diagram Eight taking a seam from a hollow is ii lengthened, but when
edge taking a seam from a round edge is
shortened.
it
The
Human Form
Attitudes of the
I
Perhaps the must important feature in connection with the proper alteration of garments is a careful
human
study of the principles
form.
which guide
in
The
application of the
alterations can only be
"When a customer is trying on a suit or other garment in your store and there are alterations to be made, contrive by all means to keep him away from the mirror. exercised by this study.
is
his peculiarities of
form and see that he
standing
in a natural position
before
commencing
any operatic ins. And it is nearly impossible to have anyone stand in their accustomed manner while trying on a garment before a mirror. Unconsciously they will assume an unnatural position. It
is
then
impossible
to
mark
the
necessary
changes correctly on the garment. However, after he has relaxed to his normal position and away from the mirror a careful study can be made and the proper changes outlined. In connection with this article eight different types are here pictured. These attitudes will practically cover the majority of figures you will be obliged to conform garments to. Thesefdifferent figures have been drawn especially for this series of articles so that a stud)- of the atti-
'
i
tudes and the difference of each from the normal
made separately of each figure. No. 1 shows the normal figure. Careful attention should be paid to the straight line drawn parallel with the figure. The distance from this line to the nape of the neck is called the incline measure and determines the degree of erectness or slope. It is hardly necessary to dwell longer on this figure, as will be
tbe only alteration necessary
Xote well
Forward Posture Long Back from Waist Up I â&#x20AC;˘ill from II', i: D
would be the shortena few other minor
ing of the sleeves and possibly
changes.
which depicts the erect figure, There is less incline from the straight line, which naturally tends to make the figure shorter in the back and longer in front. This figure then would require a shorter In studying No.
2,
the peculiarities are self-evident.
back.
It will
also
lie
noticed that the seat
is
more
prominent and the arms are held farther back, thus making a smaller back width and greater width across the chest.
The
calves of the legs are also
more prominent.
A
depicted by No. 3, which is This figure requires a longer back, more blade, less across the chest and less seat. Xo. 4 shows a forward posture which would neces-
stooping attitude
the reverse of erect.
Page Threi
is
sitate a longer
back from the waist up and longer
A
back view of the normal figure
is
clearly illustrates the height of
It
shown in No. normal shoul-
The sloping shoulder and longer neck as de-
ders.
picted by No.
6,
and No. 7
illustrates the high shoul-
ders and shorter neck.
The form with one shoulder lower by No.
alteration
the
is
illustrated
department
made many
here are
front from the waist down.
5.
One Shoulder Low
Ilhh Should,-
Should,-
is
most important and you daily.
friends or enemies for
of is here reminded of an experience After purchasing a suit recently, several alterations were necessary. The garment was promised on a certain day and on this day I presented the ticket to the clerk, but was told that it was not fin-
The
writer
own.
his
ished as yet.
lint
would have
to be called for
tin-
next day.
8.
The advantages
of being truly competent to conone of these forms is immediately apparent, since practically every customer entering your store will come under one classification or an-
"But can't we send it to your office?" Yes, they could and did. That evening 1 attempted to wear the suit. Only half the needed alterations had been
other.
cessitated another trip to the store.
form
a
And
garment
instead
to
of
guesswork, substitute efficiency
your alterations. Too many of the older generabushelmen were content to make a few standard alterations and let it go at that. in
tion of
But today, with ready-made clothing attaining the
made.
fit
it has, with careful attention to details, can be given every customer.
selling
your
thousands
of dollars of extra
merchandise
in
store.
Hidden away from
it
to
regular routine of the store.
I
am
sure
it
is
a daily occurrence.
your good judgment
I
if
it
is
I'll
leave
conducive to future
trade.
The clearly
tin-
This time
successful.
This instance was not an unusual one with that store.
This perfection in fitting will eliminate most of the complaints which the retailer is compelled to meet today. Then. too. it will be the means of
of course, ne-
But think what a different impression would have been made on me if the time appointed for the garment to be finished had found if on the first it completed and ready for me and attempt to wear it, it had fitted nicely.
was more
standard that a perfect
This slackness on their part,
different
show
be made. Four
figures
illustrated
in
this
article
the attitudes for which provision
must
back three-quarters to an inch, as shown by the dotted lines and arrow points. Shorten the amount dropped at the bottom. Raise the back notch, as pointed out by the hand in the illustration. Then
Wide Back— Small Chest
distribute the extra fullness at the top of the sleeve, caused by raising the back notch. Reduce the blade of the back, as illustrated by the dotted lines, since an erect figure needs a smaller back.
To Lengthen Back {Refer
to
figure on
Page Three, showing stooping figure)
Diagram 9 shows the change necessary for a coat needing more blade, or in other words, greater length from the center of the back to the front of the scye (arm-hole).
This customer has a wider back and a smaller chest. If
the
under-sleeve
change, work
in
is
short
after
making the little more
the back of the scye a
and press the fullness well away to the blades, as shown by the arrow points.
To
Shorten Back
to
Raise up the back three-fourths an inch, and drop the back
notch, as pointed out by the hand.
Shorten the forepart at the botof side, the amount the back is raised or face bottom of back
tom
with cloth.
Redistribute the extra
fullness of the under-sleeve at the
bottom of the armhole. also
lie
more
Diagram 10 illustrates how to shorten the back of a coat. (Oh page three figure 2 was illustrated, showThe accompanying sketch 10A ing the erect attitude. In
such
a
garment,
carefully
drop
blade, to
make
in addition to
shown
in diagram 9. Sketch 11 accompanying this diagram 11 illustrates the garment before al-
as
A
clearly the need for alteration.
altering
may
the above changes, the alterations
)
shows very
It
necessary, in order to give
the
Lfiȣ
Pagi
Fivi
6*cA
teration.
Square or High Shoulders
Sloping Shoulders (See figure 6 on
This
may
Page Four)
be overcome in some
{See figure on Page Four)
in-
stances by padding the shoulders.
The proper
alteration
is
shown by
figure, in addition to
This
Slope the shoulders and lower the scye, and drop the back
the dotted lines.
causing tightness
the shoulders, usually develops a horizontal
in
crease at the back of the neck.
and front notches. This change will enable the sleeves to give in easily. If, on the other hand, the shoulders are sloped without sink-
merely tightness
shown
ing the scye, the sleeves will be far
when
from being satisfactory. Sketch 13 A illustrates the incorrect
at
in
the fault
is
will usually be sufficient.
cases,
the crease
is
and
evident
top of the back, as
the
shown
fit.
diagram 12
extreme
In
If
the shoulder, the changes
in
smaller sketch,
in the
the changes illustrated in diagram 13
Extreme Hiorh Shoulders
must be made,
out
all
in
addition to the following:
the padding in the shoulders.
two and one-half
the canvas
in
canvas.
arm's scye remove is
open and
it
If
padding
is
from the shoulder.
free, stretch
marked on diagram
to three inches
12.
(See figure mi Page Four)
made on diagram
12,
lower
the top of the back, as outlined by the dotted lines,
making the back of the neck a little wider. Cut down shoulder seam of back, as shown. Hook in shoulder seam of forepart, as illustrated. Straighten the shoulder. (See arrow points, and let out out-
It is is
off the forepart, as
usually the right shoulder which
Make
the changes as illustrated
by the dotted
lines at the top of the
center seam, top of hack, and shoulders.
lay in the gorge of forepart.)
Then take
low.
per dotted lines. I'mjr SlX
around the
When
all
well with the iron, where
One Shoulder Low In addition to changes
in
down
Invert v's in lining to corre-
from shoulder end. spond to cuts
Take
Put cut
Coat Requiring a Longer Back on One Side and Low Shoulder on the Other
One Shoulder Low (Continued from Page Six)
A
occur-
frequent
rence
garment
a
in
having a low shoulder defect
that
is
on the hip side as the
it
at the 1<
>\v
Make the one shoulder low by the alteration as shown on the right back. Raise back up on left side and center seams as shown by arrow points. Drop inch on left side and take off top of back seam as per Lengthen
dotted lines.
left
side of
back
at bottom.
hits
same
shi wil-
der.
In
this
case
drop
the hack and sink the scye. Shorten the
hack
bottom
the
at
the
amount dropped. Also slope the shoulders at
end of the forefitting on the hip on the same side as the low shoulder usually arises from the other shoulder requiring a high shoulder hence the drag. the
part.
J
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
See sketch showing the defect.
JZ>A/
7
Showing Left Shoulder High and Right Shoulder The sketch
acci
Low
impanying
was drawn
Coat Needing More Spring
to
show the left shoulder high and right shoulder low.
The
would thus iw a drag from the
shi
left
coat
shoulder
right hip
too
Rip side seams to within
much
and
to
the
will
have
spring on the
inches
four
from top and put back on, short all the
along forepart.
right side in addition to
the usual
shoulder at the back of
Another way tering
cases (as
this in
of
al-
defect
is
diagram
to
x
t r e
in
Page Seven
e
addition
above changes.
17.
m
drop the back diagram in 10,
page five)
the arm.
shown
In more e
fullness,
causedbythelow
way
down. Shorten back at bottom of side seam
Fullness in Forepart at
Bottom
Circular Creases in Front of Scye
Scye
of
To remedy
this
defect
ad-
ance the scye as shown in dia-
gram
Too much sion
the
in
et
suppres-
22, or
them
if
facings are tight
out.
under arm
cut.
The remedy tained the
ob-
is
by reducing
top
diagram
of 23.)
cut.
at
(See
Forward
the scye.
Coat Tight
at
lop Button
Rip the lining and canvas "i
in front
scye and open the lining at the fac-
ing. Steam up fronts well, stretch and press breast forward to front. Readjust canvas and linings. Take as
Too Much
small a seam as possible.
Breast
For blades,
Take
in
at
the under
and. as per dotted
line,
arm
perpendicular fold between take off center seam as per
dotted lines.
for-
ward the scye, or rip out the drawing threads or tape in front of scye. Open up vest in
canvas
and
press
breast
Alterations at Back x\rm caused by a sleeve Rip the in at the back scye. scye and draw in well with See diagram 9. to the blade.
This
Circular Creases Below Front of Scye
is
(
If
sleeve runs up
which is imperfectly put armhole around the back front, pressing carefully
on page
five.
arm when raising
to front close
the scye at the under
arm Deepen and
the
facings are tight or twisted readjust them. scye.
cut as per dotted
Raise the front
lines.
a d v a n c e
If
notch one - half and drop back notch onehalf,
repitching
sleeves
diagram Page Eight
as 24.
shown
the in
To
Lower
Raise or
Take
To raise collar raise on outlay back of neck and gorge. collar
the
If
shorten
gets
too
of
all
the
padding out of the shoulders and stretch
long,
up
it.
Hook
well.
in
neck and shorten top of back as per dotted
lower the collar lower gorge collar at back of neck or and reduce the stand of the
To
lines.
Stretch bottom
edge of collar well.
collar.
the collar is lowered at neck without taking oft' stand, the collar will someIf
the
times get too short unless the of an inch. one-quarter neck point is higher without ripping Collars may be made lower or the iron as suggested the seams by a judicial use of well on fall edge of the stretch collar, 'the lower To and to raise the coledge, crease collar and shrink on on the crease edge and lar lay out the collar straight
hooked
Up
Collar Riding
Collars
To
eliminate "the
-no-then the edge
Vest
Too Large
Pass the down.
edge
on
riding
collar
up.
well.
in Front
From Waist
Down
in
stretch well.
fall
by stretching
ba
c
Lengthen the
scye of the forepart
andshorten
To Lengthen
Collar
vest
hack at bottom. Then take
away surplus
at
the side seams at the waist if necessarv.
Rip
off the collar
:
pass the
back at the notch and make a wider notch. Dis-
collar
tribute
where
the
collar
fullness
short.
Vest
Collar Standing
Away
Back
at
of
Too Loose
in
Front
of
Scye
Neck l'ass
up the back
per dotted lines and shorten forepart as
Take back
at
dotted
in
the center
seam
of
the
and
raise
as
per
the lines.
top
Shorten
collar
at the side.
tru
amount necessary.
I'iiiji
Sim
Forward Attitude
Vest Tight at Bottom Buttons and Loose at Waist in Back
(SÂŤ Small
Sketch)
Pass the back up as
per dotted lines.
This
will also alter a
vest that sticks out
and acts loose at the vest opening when the wearer is seated.
Vest Standing at Side of
Away
Neck
The vest back is too short at the neck point.
neck
Let out the point
as
per
dotted lines by putting-
on a block
at the
Take
top of the back, as
shown
by
off the front
the scat as
dotted
lines.
of waist
shown by dotted
and
Trousers Cutting
Vest Standing Away From Back of Neck
side too
much
at the
crotch,
thus
giving
too
much
A
The
at sides
and take
the back
seam
top
;
in
at the
shorten
the
and straighten
in Seat
This is caused by hollowing the under-
tween Pass up the back. Shorten the forepart
fly
lines.
caused the
remedy is by reducing
crotch
lined
space be-
and B.
as
out-
by dotted
lines.
Take three-quarters
of an inch off the underside
and
one-quarter inch off topside. This alteration will neces-
neckstrap as shown
by dotted
sitate
shortening the legs one-half inch.
lines.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
This change may not appear logical to many but The usual thing done is to let out the it is the best remedy. crotch instead of taking in, with the result that the trousers are worse than before. The only time a crotch should be let out is when the trousers are too tight in the thigh.
NOTE.
Page Ten
To Reduce
derside as per dotted lines.
the Waist of Trousers If
necessary
to
ing to the degree of twist.
waist
the
reduce
The
underside should be joined threefourths to an inch shorter, accord-
above one and one-
Crease Swinging to
half inches, half the
aim unit
should
reduce front,
be
Outside of Leg
d in the
See Sirlc/i
and half in shown
by dotted
Two
Rip leg seam from the bottom to crotch and resew, keeping the un-
the back, as
lines.
A
waist
should
never
be
reduced
derside on short, three-fourths to one inch, according to the degree
above one and one-half at back or bursted legs will
of twist, and shorten the underside at
ensue and the side pockets and hip pockets will be forced too
much
bottom
the
the
amount
passed down.
to the back.
Twisted Legs This defect often causes much annoyance to a customer and to the alteration man, yet it is one of the simplest of changes if the proper course is pursued.
Conclusion
Crease Swinging to Inside of Leg See Dia.
35 and Sketch One
In conclusion
let
us say that
we
have endeavored to suggest alteraFirst ascertain it
caused
is
improper of
if
joining
w
parts
h
i
c
m ust meet
We
point as plain as possible
at
not
as
the
seam up
down tom.
necessary,
ciples laid
resew,
all
to
the
The
way
having
aimed
oft"
at sketch
down
alteration
comebacks,
the bot-
Take
in this
Two
are followed they will simplify
many
problems that would otherwise be very troublesome.
keeping under side
on short
;
The remedies of the defects suggested herein are printhe result of many years experience and if the
side
to the hip
and
retail.
lengthy descriptions
conciseness.
:
Rip
notch
is
cover the most
have tried to make every
way making
The remedy
will
defects confronted in the
every day sale of clothing at
h
IK itches.
follows
which
tions
common
the
1>v
will
the cost considerably.
unI'niji
Elf
"stay put," eliminating
will create a
many
higher efficiency and reduce
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