TT 520 .S4
Copy
1
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THE AMERICAN
DESIGNER A
and
CUTTER
Complete, Practical and
Work
Up-to-date
Art
on the
of Designing, Cutting,
Grading, Fitting, Sketching
and all
Practical Tailoring of
kinds of Womens', Miss-
es',
Juniors',
and
Infants'
Prof.
Sr
Childrens'
Garments
SCHORR
Publishers
AMERICAN PAT! ERN COMPANY New
York, U.
S.
A.
COPYRIGHT
1915. B Y
SAUL SCHORR
Entered according to act of Congress of tlie Librarian of
D.
Congress
at
Washington,
C, and any infringements on Copyright
will
the office
in
be prosecuted
the
to
the fullest extent of the law.
AUG I6I9I5
)CI,A411102
?l^
Preface
THE duced me
freely expressed wishes of to
experiment and practice This book
Infants' I
is
devoted
to
the art of designing, cutting, grading, all
at
fitting,
Garments.
trust the trade will here
hand
in-
kinds of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens'
acknowledge an honest attempt
of a permanent nature, that no matter
be
correspondents and pupils,
Designing and Garment cutting.
in the art of
sketching and practical tailoring of
and
my numerous
put into book form this compilation of several year's observation,
how
fashion
may
as a guide to the principles of designing
at finding
a work
fluctuate, will conveniently
and garment cutting
to
ensure
artistic results. I
have given such
should make
details of instruction as
this not
only an
in-
valuable handbook for the student, but a most useful work of reference for the
experience Designer, Cutter and Pattern- Maker this
who wishes
to
be up
to
date in
important department. I
am
convinced that any person of average intelligence can become a master
of the art through the
medium
of this publication,
whether
it
be a practical Designer,
Cutter or Pattern-maker, or one totally unaquciinted with the art of designing and
garment 1
cutting.
have spared neither labor nor expense
the highest place in the Designer's to a
and
in
making
Cutter's library,
world-wide audience believeing that
it
will
and
the
volume worthy
in introducing this
be of great service
in
of
book
helping to
achive success as Designer, Cutter and Pattern-Maker.
THE AUTHOR
Introduction.
THIS
work
is
many
a result of
years'
which no pains have been spared
The
student
will
from complication; no
find
scale,
the
chart
study,
research,
in
to perfect.
system extremely
and
and experiment,
and
simple
any kind
divisions of
is
entirely
free
simple
used,
the ordinary inch measure.
The method by which
the location of
in numerical order in the descriptive text plicity is systematized,
is
all
points
new
on the
in principle
is
at the
and by
found
its
sim-
time economized and trouble absolutely eliminated.
This important and thoroughly comprehensive work
and
draft are
same time simpler and more
direct
is
new
in principle
than any other system before
the trade.
SAUL SCHORR
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
10
What What
Know
a Designer Should
a Designer requires to do
to bring
is
ideas
new
into
and
associations
in
order to do this he must be ever on the alert to gather them from the books of bygone age, ac well as from the passing crowd. These ideas must be not only brought into
must be blended with the prevailing ideas
associationc, but they
new
fashions, or they will
of
not be acceptable.
Of course the Designer needs must be obeyed;
that
and another. There must be order running through
it all,
in the
still
gather an
sleeve from an other, a collar from a third
of
and proportion, are the laws idea for a skirt
one part
between the various
some
style
of beauty.
from one costume, a
and a body part from a fourth
blending the whole into one harmonious whole by acts as a connecting link
fundamental rules
arrangement, and there must be a proportion
for these three, unity, order
These we may obey, and
certain
must be unity between the design
instance, there
for
are
to realize that there
illustration,
ornamentation
of
which
parts.
Ladies' Tailor Qualifications The various.
qualifications necessary to
He must be an
artistic
blend his colors to match the etc.,
become
a successful
ladies'
taibr
nature with an eye to beauty, so that he
ladies'
complection, and to
are will
many and be able to
arrange the seams,
braiding,
so as to poduce the best effect on his customer.
He must have must be gentlemanly
a knowledge of materials and the latest in
method
manners and conversation, courteous and
of
decoration.
obliging,
He
and be pos-
sessed with an abudance of tact and ability to please, and treat his customers with respect.
He all
should be able to take his measure easy and
undue handling
he should abstain
He
of his customer.
hom
all
He
graceful,
and he should avoid
should never stand directly
in front of
her,
and
unnecessary conversation.
should also have a practical and technical knowledge of his trade, and be able
to design garments,
These
and produce them up-to-date and
qualities, assiduously cultivated, will
to
fit
the figure.
enable the aspirant to achieve success.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
System One er,
of the
most important things
Cutter or Pattarn-Maker
Cutter
should
who
of cutting
IS
The
it
to
and the
a study to be competent in his pattern cutting.
necessarily the
first
and garment
upon which
the system
is
upon
The knowledge
constructed.
It
lines,
the
number
in
practice
so far as the actual working of their system
know^ledge of the principle is
is
some guidance
not sufficient that
and the
fewr divisional
(if
only the student
is
concerned,
any) upon which
who
it
who
look back with
The
experimented with.
of systems (so-called) that they
tion of this very foolish practice consist in the fact that such students,
It
of a system
produce them.
There are many mature Designers and Cutters now surprise
are
though
absolutely
explana-
letter-perfect,
devoid
of
If
the principles
upon which
who
a system
based are unreliable, there can be no hope of anything approaching uniform success if
all
has been found.
has been well grounded in this essential information
can logically estimate the results of his practice.
use, but
and
satisfaction of his patrons,
cutting will require
he should merely understand the location of a few construction quantities that
a proficient Design-
step towards a practical position.
intelligent student of designing
as to the principles, or basis,
become
the abihty to cut perfect fitting patterns. Every Designer
is
interested in the elevation of his industry
is
make
order
to consider in
the principles are right the casual troubles that arise can be expeditiously
is
in its
and
effectually rectified.
Good The designer and line.
As soon
fashion.
cutter of to-day
as this idea
That what
is
is
grasped
it
Lines
must be an is
artist to fully
grasp what
is
the
good
necessary to change again after the caprices of
considered the perfect line to-day
is
altogether
changed
for
to-morrow.
The eyes must be always open. It
tume
fits
is
difficult to
follow this movement. Happily
many
well, but the greater part of dressy ladies desire
ladies are content that the lines
if
their cos-
must be
perfect.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
\2
Contrasts garments marked contrasts often produce the very best
In ladies'
introduction of a
some
velvet or brade in the trimming, or the use of
little
garment a character which pronunces
of button, gives the entire
and
results,
special
the
make
a stylish creation.
it
can be produced by employing compli-
In the selection of the lining excellent effects
lining for a russet coat, or a citrine lining for a blue coat,
mentary colors such as a green
or a primrose lining for a heliotrop cloth, and so on. Excellent effects are often obtained by the use of white
shades as 1
silver gray,
which goes well with any
think these contrasts are
more
silk
or satin linings, or such
cloth.
succesful than the best of matches.
Fashions Fashions in fema'e garments change rapidly, and as most ladies' in
harmony with
keep him
self
up
well posted
In the first place
visits,
the latest style, in
becomes desirable
it
what
for the designer
being worn. This
is
he should carefully note what
is
and
may be done
being worn
particularly study the exhibits of those firms of note
and
demaed
at
to
be dressed
ladies' tailor to
in
several ways.
the centres of fashion he
who have made
a reputa-
tion for this class of trade.
Then
is
it
very important that he should take in some fashion periodical, which
trate the latest features of fashion in
tailor-made garments; and that
is
illus-
such a way as to render them easy of applicaton to
what
is
most wanted.
Style As
in
garment designing, so
the trade. Style acter about
it.
is
has ever played an important part
the artistic finish given to the garment in order that
The run
of the seams, the finish of the edges, together
finish of the lapels, collar
to the
in cutting, style
and
purpose the garment
in
sleeves,
must
intended
for.
all
be appropriate
Fashion
it
may have
char-
with the size and
to the material
plates are the
in
means
used, and
of portraying
the character or style of the garments, and are interpretations of the style of the garments
favored by the various classes of the cmmunity
it
is
our duty to cater
for.
PART ONE
WOMEN'S GARMENTS
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
14
How
Take Measurement
to
Fig. 1. Place the tape
over the shoulder, continue
of
back neck
the front of shoulder,
under the
measure from the centre
down
arm, and straight across the centre back seam Place a pin or
make
a light chalk
in a horizontal line.
mark where
the tape
measure
meets the centre back seam horizontally.
Scye Depth Measure: Measure from the centre of
Fig. 2.
back neck the chalk
to the point
mark has been made.
Back Waist Length Measure: Frcm
Fig. 3.
of
back neck down
the
full
where the pin had been placed or where
to the natural waist length.
the centre
Continue down
to
length as desired.
Bust Measure: Around the body under the arms,
Fig. 4.
over the
fullest part in front
and
well
upon shoulder blades
Fig. 5.
Waist Measure: Around
Fig. 6.
Hip Measure: Around
below the waist
the
body
the
back.
at the waist.
the body about 6 inches
line.
For sleeve length the measure from arm
down under
in
arm
(inside seam).
pit to wrist straight
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
How
to take
Measurements
15
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
16
Comparative Proportions for Normal
Womans' Size
is
the
measurement over the
Bust measure
is
and
breast,
3 inches more than the
Sizes
is
3 inches
less
than the Bust measure.
Size.
Example: Size 36 measures 39 inches Bust. Size 42 measures 45 inches Bust.
Waist measure To
find the
.
Waist measure add
and
Vz of the size
V4
of
the
less
2
less
size
2 inches.
Example: Size 36. Half is 18 and 25 inches the Waist measure. Example: Size 38. Half is 19 and is
26 '/2 inches
Hips measure
is
Example
:
Neck Measure
.
is
9,
half
is
9'/2,
V4
of this
together 28'/2
inches
less
is
2 inches
the Waist measure.
4 inches more than the Size
together 27
half of this
Size.
36 measures 40 inches
Size
Hips. Size
and 5 inches more
Example: Size 36. One-quarter
of
36
of
42
will
40 measures 44
give the bodice size of neck.
9 and 5 inches more
is
inches Hips.
14 inches the bodice
is
size of neck.
Example: Size 42. One-quarter
is
10'/2
and 5 inches more
more
will
give the
4'/2
inches
is
15'/2
inches the
bodice size of neck.
Ba ck width measure.
'^ Size
and
:
Scye depth measure is 1 inch Example: 5 feet 6 inches
less
inches
4'/2
Example Size 36. One quarter Back width measure.
of
36
than
height.
'/e
is
9 and
Back width measure.
more
is
13'/2
inches the
total height.
One-eighth of 66
8!4
is
less
1
inch
is
7'^ inches
the Scye depth measure.
Example 5 feet 4 inches height. One-eighth Scye depth measure. :
Back waist-length measure
is
1
of
than
is 2'/2
inches
8
is
less
1
inch
is
7 inches the
inch less than V4 total height.
Example: 5 feel 6 inches height. One-quarter inches the Back waist length. Example: 5 feet 2 inches height. One-quarter inches the Back waist-length measure. Sleeve length
64
more than
the
Back
of
66
is
16'/2
less
1
inch
is
15'/2
of
62
is
15'/2
less
1
inch
is
14'/2
measure
or
waist-fength
l'/2
inches
more
V4 total height.
Example: By 15'/2 inches Back waist-length measure is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches. Example: By 5 feet 6 inches height is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches. Skirt length in front
is '/2
total height
and 9 inches more
and 10'/2 inches more; back length is Yj Example: 5 feet 6 inches. Skirt measure back 44 inches.
;
side length
is:
front
is
V2
total
height
and 11 inches more. 42 inches, side 43'/2 inches,
total height
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Table
of
Proportionate
For Size
Women
Measurements
17
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
18
Systematical Outline
MEASUREMENTS Scye depth
Back
Waist 26 inches.
inches
7'/t
Hips 41 inches.
waist-length 15'/2 inches.
Sleeve 18 inches.
Bust 40 inches.
TO DRAFT Draw
a straight line as from
from
A
this
is
A
Square out from
to D.
the Scye depth Measure, in
A is
the
Back
waist-length measure,
O
from N is V2 inch on through N.
in this case 15'/2 inches.
D
C
from
B
A
is
Q
from
for the waist
R
for the top line,
and from
D
C
from
for the bust line,
line
P from
6 inches always.
is
Square out from
for the hip line as repre-
is
is
%
is
I
24
by drawing a
located
is
the half-way between
B and
E.
the half-way between
E and
F.
from
G
is
the half-way between
B and
F.
5'/2
T
E,
F,
G
and
1
from
S
is
is
2!/( inches.
from A is the half of the distance from B to H, in this case 3 inches.
Square out from is
K
from
H
is
A
to J.
2 inches.
less
than the
dis-
%
V
from S
is
2 inches. Connect
W
from
R
is
2 inches.
represented.
Square out from
X
as represented.
located by drawing a line from
1% inches G to R.
inch more than the distance from R is from L to O on line drawn from R through T. Cut off the point at R of Ys inch as
as repre-
sented. I
A
U
inches always.
Square out from from
from
3'/4 inches.
is
tance from
is
line
Square out from S as represented.
inches.
is
A
and N.
inch.
the half Bust measure and 4
inches more, in this case
from
M
drawn from L
through Q.
S
B
line
the half-way between
sented.
from
as represented.
from is inch less than the Scye depth measure, in this case 6% inches.
case 7'^ inches.
from
M
M %
N
from from
W A
is
U— V.
W as represented
% inch
more than
to K, in this case
3%
the distance inches.
Y
is
located by a line squared out from E.
Z
is
located by a line squared out from F.
NOTICE To
all
Diagrams
—
designed
in this
Systematical Outline
— are seam-allowan-
ces of Ys inch allowed. In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematical Outline — is the half Waist measure with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. See Waist Suppression on Page 20.
—
In all Diagrams — des:gned in this Systematical Outline is the half Hips measure with V2 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on Page 20.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
19
Systematical Outline
i¥
Y
-4h
^^
%
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
20
One Dart
Tight-Fitting with First lay
up
as described
in
points to your measure Systematical Outline, then
all
continue as follows: 1 from Z 2 from Y
Vi inch.
is
2'^ inches. from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented for the fashionable
Draw
is
23 from 15
25 from
3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance from 3 to 5. Shape back part as represented. 7 from 5 is % inch. 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 9 from F is % inch. inch. 10 from 1 is by drawing a line from 9 1 1 is located is
H
and 9. the half-way between 7 and 10. located by drawing a line from the half-way between
13
is
14
is
15 16 17 18 19
through 13. from 12 is 1 inch. from 13 is '/a inch. from 13 is Vz inch. from 14 is 1 inch. from 14 is 1 inch.
20 from
11
is
1 '/i
inches.
9-24-25 as represented. a line from
line
allel
30
is
drawn
E
par-
with line 1-2.
located by
drawing a E-26.
line
from 29
parallel with line
31 from 30 32 from 30 33 from 29
is
l'/4
is
2%
is
the
inches.
inches.
same
length as 31 from
29.
Draw a
line
from 24
to
33
for the
run
of the waist line. is
located by
drawing a
line
from 31
parallel with line E-27.
35 from 34 12
is
%
inch
more than
the
dis-
tance from 31 to 32. is
%
inch.
of front; finish on the neck gorge, shoulder, armhole and
Shape the center front the
dart as represented. is the same length as
37 from 10
25 from
24.
33 from 35 39 from 31
inch.
%
is
lines
3C from 27
Vi inch.
21 from P is Vi 22 from 21 is
inch for seam.
through 26. 28 from G is 3'/t inches. 29 from 28 is 2 inches on
34
through 10.
%
26 from 2 is 1% inches. 27 is located by drawing
%
12
1 1
Shape
lines
waist line.
is
Shape both side-gores as represented. 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the same length as 9 to 10.
is is
l'^ inches. the same length as
38 from
33. Finish the bottom as represented.
inch for seam.
WAIST SUPPRESSION. By applying this System the For instance, 20 half Bust has 13 Bust has 10 h?lf Waist measure, etc.
half
half
Waist measure is with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. Waist measure, 24 half Bust has 17 half Waist measure, 17 half
Very easy to change the drah to your actual Waist measure, by following the instructions as below:
It is
difference between the half actual Waist measure and the half sy-tematical Waist measure is to be added to by larger actual waist measure and to be taken off by smaller actual waist measure at the front dart. For instance by drafting a pattern with 40 bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 13 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is 13'/2 inches, than you have to take out at the front dart 1/2 inch less: in this case take out on the draft from 30 to 32 only 214 inches. By drafting a pattern of 44 Bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 15 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is only 14 '/a inches than you have to take out at the front dart '72 inch more; in this case take out 3'/^ inches on draft from 30 to 32.
The
HIPS DEVELOPMENT. By instance
20 It
measure is with 1/2 inch more than the half Bust measure. For has 20'/2 half Hips measure, 24 half Bust has 24'/2 half l^ips measure, etc. very easy to change the draft to your actual Hips measure by following the instruction as below:
applying
this
System the
half fdips
half Bust
is
between the half actual Hips measure and the half systematical Hips measure is to be Hips measure and to be taken off by smaller actual Hips measure on the hip line equally divided at potnts 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20. For instance by drafting a pattern of 40 Bust measure the half of the systematical Hips measure will be 20y2 inches, and if the half of your actual Hips measure is 22 '/2 inches, than you have to allow 2 inches on the hip line equally divided at points 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20, and vica-verse.
The
added
to
by
difference
larger actual
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting with
One Dart
21
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
22
Two
Tight-Fitting with First lay
up
as described
in
points to your measure
all
Systematical Outline,
then
26 from 2 is 1% inches. 27 is located by drawing
from
Z
Y
1
Draw
28 from G is 314 inches. 29 is located by drawing
Vi inch.
is
2 '4 inches.
is
from C
lines
through 2 as represented
to
1
and from
for the fashionable
30
3 from C
is
2 inches.
31
is
1%
5 from 3
is
1
32 33
A
inches.
inch less than the distance
to K.
6 from 4
%
is
from 3
inch
more than the distance
Shape back part as represented. is
%
8 from 6
is
1
9 from F
is
is
1
is
inch.
29 and 30. 29 and 31. by drawing a line from 32
par-
inch.
by drawing a
line
line
H
is
the half-way between
the half-way between 7
from 9
is
located by drawing
a
and and
is
1
16 from 13
is
'/2
17 from 13
is
Va inch.
is
length as
34 from
1
inch less than the distance
K.
to
2 inches.
is
the
is
same length
as
37 from
line
Draw
from
a line from
12
40
is
l'/4
is
'^
1
inch. inch.
20 from
is
Vz
43 from 42
as 1 '/2
inch,
9
34
par-
inches.
inch
2'/2
is
more than
the dis-
inches.
Shape the center
of front;
front the neck, shoulder,
finish
on the
armhole and darts
as represented. for
seam.
for
seam.
Shape both side-gores
%
the run
for
tance from 35 to 37.
inch.
21 from P is Vz inch. 22 from 21 is % inch 23 from 15 is % inch
39
with line 26-27. is
1
to
located by drawing a line from
42 from 41
is
24
of the waist line.
41 from 40
is
is
A
inch.
18 from 14
lines
with line 29-26.
inch.
19 from 14
1 1
located
allel
15 from 12
same length
is
38 from 37 39 from 31
9.
10.
through 13.
is
the half-way between
31.
is
24 from 10
the half-way between
is
from
13
1 1
is
37 from 35
inch.
12
Shape
29
a
32.
inch.
% %
located
25 from
from
34 from 33 is % inch. 35 from 33 is % inch. 36 from 32 is the same
through 10.
14
a line through 31
located by drawing
is
allel
to 5.
7 from 5
10 from
E
through 28.
4 from D
1 1
from
line
parallel with line 1-2.
1
waist line.
from
a
through 26.
continue as follows:
2 from
Darts
as represented.
and
is
from 9 the
to 10.
inches.
9-24-25 as represented.
44 from 10
same length
as
25 from
45 from 43 is 1 '^ inches. 43 from 37 is the same length
as
45 from
is
the
24.
39.
47 from 27
is
%
inch.
Finish the bottom as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
23
X Tight-Fitting with
Two
Darts
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
24
Back and Semi-Fitting Front
Tight-Fitting
First lay
up
as described
in
points to your measure
all
Systematical Outline, then
22 from 21 23 from 15
from
Z
2 from
Y
Draw
is
2'^ inches.
is
from C
lines
through 2 as represented
to
and from
1
1
is
D
is
1%
is
1
4 from
5 from 3 from
A
6 from 4 from 3
2 inches. inches.
inch less than the distance
%
is
allel
inch
more than
the distance
is
%
8 from 6
is
1
9 from F
is
is
1
is
30
inch. inch.
by drawing a
located by drawing
is
a
line
from 28
a
line
from 28
E~26.
located by drawing
line
from 9
32 from 30 33 from 29 34 from 28
is
'/2
inch.
is
%
inch.
is
2'/2
inches.
is
the
same length
as 31 from
28.
H
is
the half-way between
13
is
the half-way between 7
is
located by drawing
through 13.
a
and
Draw
9.
and 10. line
from
a line from
24
to
34
for the
run
of waist line.
12
35 from 30
is
3'^ inches.
Finish the front as represented.
15 from 12
is
1
16 from 13
is
'/a
17 from 13
is
'/2
18 from 14
is
1
inch. inch.
36 from 10
is
the
same length
as
25 from
as
37 from
24. inch.
inch.
37 from 35
is
V/a inches.
inch.
38 from 31
is
the
19 from 14
is
1
20 from
is
Vi inch.
21 from P
is
par-
with line 1-2.
31 from 29
inch.
12
11
9-24-25 as represented.
through 29.
inch.
% %
located
lines
parallel with line
through 10.
14
29
to 5.
Shape back part as represented.
1 1
Shape
26 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 26. 27 from G is 3'^ inches. 28 from 27 is 2 inches on line drawn
to K.
7 from 5
10 from
same length as 9 to 10. 25 from 11 is l'/2 inches.
for the fashionable
waist line.
3 from C
inch for seam. inch for seam.
24 from 10
inch.
'/2
% %
Shape both side-gores as represented. the is % inch, and is from 9
continue as follows: 1
is
is
is
'/2
inch.
same length
34. Finish the bottom as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting
Back and Semi-Fitting Front
25
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
26
Blouse
First lay
up
all
points to your
measure as described
in
Systematical Outline,
then
continue as follows
1
from Z
is
'/2
Y
is
2'/4
2 from
Draw 3 from
4
is
C
lines
is
inch.
inches.
from C
to
and from
1
to
2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.
2 inches.
the half-way between
5 from 4
is
%
6 from
is
4 inches
1
1
F and M.
inch.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 4
8
is
is
%
inch.
located by drawing a line from
2 from E. Finish the front as represented.
X
through E, and
is
from E the same length
as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Blouse
27
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
28
Basque or Tunic Skirt Measurers Waist 26 inches.
Hips 42 inches.
To Draft Draw
A.
a straight line as
from
A
is
from
B
is
D
from
A
E F
from
D
B C
G
is
is
is is
from
A
to
1.
the half Waist measure, in this case 13 inches,
6
inches.
2 inches. 1
dawn from D.
inch on line squared
located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at A. located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at A, and
Hips measure,
half
B-C
in this
the front iine, and F--G
is
is
from C Vi inch more than the
case 2V/i inches. is
the back line.
To Lengthen
the Skirt
1
is
located by drawing a line from
B
through
C
to the length
measure as desired.
2
is
located by drawing a line from
F through
G
to the length
measure as
3
is
the center between
4 from
1
is
B and
desired.
F.
V/i inches less than the half distance between
1
and
2,
and
is
from 3 the
length as desired.
5
is
located by drawing a line from 3 to 4.
6 from 5
is
1
7 from 4
is
the half difference between the width of bottom from
of
to
1
2 and the width
bottom as required.
8 from 4 of
inch.
is
the half difference between the width of bottom from
1
to
2 and the width
bottom as required. Cut out the space 6
-7--8--6 as
represented, and join
together 6-7
the Dart on the waist line as represented on the bottom draft 3--6--3.
NOTICE: On
this draft
are seams
not allowed.
with 6-8
to
get
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Basque or Tunic Skirts
29
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
30
Tight- Fitting Eton with First lay
up
all
One Dart
points to measure as described in Systematical Outline,
then con-
tinue as follows: 1
from Z
is
^/i
Y
is
2'^ inches.
2 from
Draw
inch.
from C to
lines
1
and from
1
through 2
for
the fashionable
waist
line
as
represented.
3 from
4
is
C
2 inches.
is
the half-way between
5 from 4
is
6 from
is
1
%
F and M.
inch.
4 inches.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 4
is
%
8 from 2
is
1%
inch.
inches.
a line from
Draw
G
is
3'^ inches.
10 from 9
is
l'/2
9 h-om
11
is
E
to 8.
inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2.
located by drawing a line from 10 parallel with line E~8.
12 from 11
is
l'/4 inches.
13 from 11
is
2%
inches.
14 from 10
is
the
same length
as 12 from
10.
Finish the Front as represented. If
A
you wish
to 3.
to
have a close back, take
off
ys inch
seam
at the
back center from
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight- Fitting Eton with
One Dart
31
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
32
Tight-Fitting Eton with
First lay
up
all
Two
Darts
points to your measure as described in Systematical
Outline, then
continue as follows:
from
Z
2 from
Y
1
is
Draw
is
2'^ inches.
lines
3 from C
4
V2 inch.
is
from C
1 to
2
for the fashionable waist line as represented.
2 inches.
is
the half
way between F and M.
5 from 4
is
%
6 from
is
4 inches.
1
and frcm
to 1
inches.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 4
is
%
8 from 2
is
1%
inch.
inches.
Draw
a line from
G
3'^ inches.
9 from
is
E
to 8.
is
located by drawing a line through 9 parallel with line
1 1
is
located by drawing
12
is
the half
13
is
the half-way between 10 and 12.
14
is
located by drawing a line from 13 parallel with line E--8.
10
% inch. % inch,
15 from 14
s s
17 from 16
s 1
19 h-om 12
from 10 through
way between 10 and
16 from 14
18 from 17
a line
and
is
11.
from 13 the same length as 15 from 13.
inch less than the distance between
2 inches, s
the
1--2.
9.
same length
as 17 from 12.
Finish the front as represented.
A
and K.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting Eton with
Two
Darts
33
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
34
Tight-Fitting Eton with
up
First lay
all
One Side-Gore
points to your measure as described
in Systematical
Oudine, then
continue as follows:
from
Z
2 from
Y
1
Vi inch.
is
2'^ inches.
is
Draw
C
from
lines
to
1
and from
1
through 2
for
the
as represented.
3 from C
is
4 from P
is
5 from
H
6 from 3
2 inches.
is
% %
inch.
inch.
same
the
is
K
as
from A.
Finish the back part as represented.
7 from 6
is
%
8 from 4
is
Vi inch.
9 from 8
is
%
10 from F
is
V/i inches.
is
2 '^ inches.
1 1
from
1
inch.
inch for seam.
Finish the side gore as represented.
12 from 10 13 from
%
is
1
is
'/4
14 from 2
is
1%
Draw a 15 from
G
16 from 15 17
is
is is
inch.
inch.
inches.
line
from E
to
14.
3'^ inches.
Vh
inches on line drawn parallel with line
located by drawing a line from 16 parallel
18 from 17
is
19 from 17
is
2%
inches.
20 from 16
is
the
same
I'A inches.
length as 18 from 16.
Finish the front as represented.
with line
1--2.
E-14.
fashionable waist line
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting Eton with
One Side-Gore
35
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
36
Seam
Tight-Fitting Eton with French up
First lay
all
points to your measure as described in Systematical
Outline, then
continue as follows: 1
from Z
2 from
is
Y
Draw
inch.
'/i
inches.
2'/4
is
from C to
lines
1
and from
1
through 2
for
the
fashionabie
represented.
3 from
C
is
4 from
O
is
5
is
is
%
inch.
L and
the half-way between
6 from 3 7
2 inches.
same
the
is
K
as
4, or located accordingly style
located by drawing a line from 5 to 6 as represented.
8 from 6
is
%
9 from 5
is
Ys inch
and
is
V4
inch higher from the line L-0.
10 from 4
is
%
inch and
is
V4
inch higher from line L--4.
11 from P
is
%
inch.
12 from F
is
IVz inches.
13 from
is
ZVa inches.
1
inch.
and the back
Finish the back part
14 from 12 15 from
1
Draw 17 from
1%
inches.
a line from
G
is is
side gore as represented.
inch. inch.
V4
is
18 from 17 is
%
is
is
18 from 2
19
and
from A.
E
to
16.
3'4 inches. IV2 inches on line drawn parallel with line
1--2.
located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16.
20 from 19
is
l'/4
21 from 19
is
2^^ inches.
22 from 18
is
the
23 from R
Draw a 24 from 23
Draw
is
the
line is
inches.
same length same
from 23
%
to
20 from
as
length as
L
18.
to 5.
18.
inch.
a line from
24
parallel with line 23--18 as represented.
Finish the front as represented.
taste.
waist
line
as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting Eton with French
Seam
37
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
38
Seam
Tight-Fitting French
as
First lay up all points to your measure described in Systematical Outline, then
25 from 5 is y% same length
continue as follows:
26 from 16
is
1
from
Z
is
'72
27 from 26
is
%
2 from
Y
is
2'^ inches.
1
Draw
lines
through 2
inch.
from
C
to
and from
represented.
3 from C
is
4 from D
is
O
is
5 from
6 from P
Draw 7
is
29 from 15
1%
30 from 2
% %
is
inch.
31
make
the width to style or taste.
9
is
inch less than
1
33 from
to
33
K.
located by drawing a line from 7 to 8
10 from 4
is
12 from 10 is
14 from
is
1
1
is
13 from F
% %
35
is
than 3 to
8.
inch.
line
from
17
is
the half-way between 11 and 14.
18
located by drawing a is through 17.
is
'/2
is
1
inch.
22 from 18
is
1
inch.
23 from 15
is
'/2
24 from 7
is
from the
line
line
from 16
is
1 Vi
inches.
is
2%
inches.
38 from 34
is
the
is
same length
36 from
as
located by drawing a line from
41 from
E
with line
R
Draw
is
is
4%
the
36
par-
-31.
inches.
same width
as
L
to 7.
a line from 41 to 34.
42 from 41
Draw
is
44 inch for seams.
a line from
43 from 14
42
parallel
with line
is
the
same
length as
29 from
28.
inch.
L-5.
par-
41-34.
inch.
y% inch,
34
with line E-30.
13
inch.
20 from 17
inch.
2 inches on line drawn from
is
40 from 39
the half-way between 9 and 13.
21 from 18
%
3'/t inches.
is
37 from 35
39
inch.
is
'/)
from E
line
34.
16
is
inches.
inches.
36 from 35
inch.
a is located by drawing through 14.
19 from 17
%
from 13 the
is
13.
located by drawing a line from
allel
15
side gores as rep-
parallel with line 1-2.
allel
% inch more % inch.
is
from 8
and
by drawing a
is
G
34 from 33
A
as represented.
1 1
1
located
is
l'/2
is
is
32 from 31
a line from 5 to 6.
is
inch for seam.
through 30.
inch.
the half-way between 5 and L, or
8 from 3
from 6 the
inch.
28 from 14 is % inch, and same length as 14 from
2 inches. inches.
is
P.
resented.
1
fashionable waist line as
for the
O
Finish the back 1
and from
inch,
as
and
is
!/4
inch higher
44 from 40
is
1 '^
inches.
45 from 36
is
the
same length
as
38. Finish the front as represented.
44 from
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting French
Seam
39
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
40
Tight- Fitting Double French up
First lay
as
points to your measure
all
described in Systematical Outline, then
continue as follows:
from
Z
is
'/2
2 from
Y
is
2'^ inches.
1
Draw
from
lines
through 2
inch.
for the
C
to
1
and from
1%
is
5 from O 6 from P
Draw
2 inches.
is
is is
% %
41
inch. inch. 6.
is
the half of
distance
from
A
is
the half of
distance
from
A
to K.
9
is
located by drawing a line from 7 to 8.
10 from 4
is
%
inch
14.
16 from 12
is
%
inch
45 46
more than the distance
from 3 to 8. 1 1 from 8 is '^ inch. 12 from 10 is Vi inch. 13 from 5 is '/2 inch more than L to 7. 14 from 1 1 is '/2 inch more than 3 to 8. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 to
42 43
44
to K.
8 from 3
more than 11
Finish the middle back part
to 14.
as repre-
47 48 49
line
from
19
through 20.
25 26 27 28 29 30 31
32 33
is
line
through 39
line from 40 is located by drawing a through 39. is the half-way between 40 and 41. is the half-way between 40 and 42. is located by drawing a line from 43 parallel with line E~36. from 44 is Vs inch. from 44 is Vs inch, and is from 43 the same length as 45 from 43. is located by drawing a line from 45 parallel with line E~37. from 47 is l'^ inches. from 46 is 1 inch less than the distance
from
A
to K.
42.
17 from 14 is '/2 inch. 18 from 16 is Vi inch. 19 from F is % inch. 20 from 1 is % inch. 21 is located by drawing a is
Ys inch.
50 from 48 is '^ inch more than the distance from 46 to 49. 51 from 49 is 2 inches. 52 from 42 is the same length as 49 from
sented.
22 23 24
is
parallel with line 1-2.
inches.
from 5 to
line
7 from L
through 36.
38 from 37
39 from G. is 3'/i inches. 40 is located by drawing a
represented.
3 from C 4 from D
34 from 20 is % inch, and is from 19 the same length as 20 from 19. 35 from 21 is l'/2 inches. 36 from 2 is 1% inches. 37 is located by drawing a line from E
1
fashionable waist line as
Seam
the half-way between 15 and 19. the half-way between 17 and 20.
is located by drawing a line from 22 through 23. from 23 is '/2 inch. from 23 is '/2 inch. from 24 is 1 inch. from 24 is 1 inch. from 21 is '/2 inch. from 13 is inch, and is '4 inch higher from line L-5. from 5 is inch, and is from 6 the same length as O from P. from 22 is 1 inch. from 32 is inch for seam.
%
%
%
Finish the side gores as represented.
53 from 50 is 2'^ inches. 54 from R is yg inch more than the distance from L to 7. Draw line from 54 to 43. 55 from 54 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 55 parallel with line 54-43.
56 from U is the same width as 30 to 31. 57 from 56 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 57 to 42. Draw a line from 56 parallel with line 57-42.
58 from 20 is the same length as 35 from 34. 59 from 53 is 1 '^ inches. 60 from 49 is the same length as 59 from 52. 61 from 48 is the same length as 60 from 50. 62 from 45 is the same length as 61 from 46. Finish the front as represented.
%
By cutting out the pattern allow extra inch for seams all way down at lines
7--8--10,
and
7--11--12.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting Double French
Seam
41
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
42
Tight- Fitting 18 Gores First lay up all points to your measure described- in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows:
as
from Z 2 from Y 1
Draw through 2
'/i
for the
44 1
and from
1
fashionable waist line as
represented.
3 4 5 6
from C from D from O from P
2 inches.
is
42 from 21 43 from 2
inch. is 2'^ inches. lines from C to is
41 from 20 is '^ inch, and is from 19 the same length as 32 from 19.
45 46 47
1%
inches. inch. inch. is Draw a line from 5 to 6. 7 from L is the half of distance to K. 8 from 3 is the half of distance is
% %
is
48 49 50
from
A
from
A
52
9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance
53 54
to
51
K.
from 3
to 8.
55
Finish the back part as represented.
from 8 is Va inch. 12 from 10 is V2 inch. 13 from 5 is V2 inch more than L to 7. 14 from 11 is the same width as 3 to 8. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 1 1
to 14.
17 from 14 is V2 inch. 18 from 16 is Vz inch. 19 from F is l'^ inches. 20 from 1 is l'^ inches. 21 is located by drawing a
28 29 30 31
60 61
62 63 line
from
19
through 20.
27
58 59
%
inch more than 11 to 14. is Finish the middle back part as represented.
16 from 12
22 23 24 25 2G
58 57
one-third of 15-19. is the halfway between 15-22. is one-third of 17-20. is the half-way between 17-24. a line from is located by drawing through 24. a line from is located by drawing through 25. nch. from 25 is nch. from 25 is nch. from 24 is nch. from 24 is nch. 20 is from nch. from 27 is nch. from 27 is nch. from 26 is nch. from 26 is
64 G5 66
is
32 33 34 35 36 37 from 21 38 from 13
is is
23
nch, and
is
is
V^ inch
higher
from 6 the same
Finish the side gores as represented.
1%
inch. inches.
drawing a line from E is located by through 43. inch. from 44 is from G is 3'^ inches. is located by drawing a line through 46 parallel with line 1-2. is located by drawing a line from 47 through 46. is the half-way between 47 and 48. is the half-way between 46 and 47. is the half-way between 48 and 49. is located by drawing a line from 50 parallel with line E-43. inch. from 52 is inch, and is from 50 the from 52 is same length as 53 from 50. is located by drawing a line from 53 parallel with line E~44. from 55 is I'/t inches. from 54 is 1 inch less than ihe distance from A to K. from 56 is '^ inch more than 57 from 54. from 57 is 1 V2 inches, and is from 49 the same length as 57 from 49. from 58 is 1% inches. is the half-way between 41 and 59. from 51 is located by drawing a line through 61. from 61 is '^ inch. from 61 is '^ inch. from 62 is V4 inch. inch more than the distance from R is from L to 7. Draw a line from 66 to 50. inch for seams. from 66 is Draw a line from 67 parallel with line
%
% %
%
%
66-50. 68 from U is the same width as 38 to 39. 69 from 68 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 69 to 49. Draw a line from 68 parallel with line
69-49 is the half-way between S and V. 71 from 32 is the same length as 42 from 41. 72 from 6 1 is 1 V4 inches. 73 from 57 is the same length as 72 from 59.
70
Finish the front as represented.
By for
nch.
from line L-5. inch, and 39 from 5 is length as O from P. 40 from 23 is 1 inch.
%
67 22
1
is
is
cutting out the pattern allow extra
seams all way down as follows: Ysinchat Hne7 9 8-10. ys inch at line 7-9-11-12. Vs inch at line 70-51-63-65. % inch at line 70-51 64-62. V4 inch at line '^ inch at line '/4 inch at line
19 32-71. 22-31-35. 40-23-29-32.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight- Fitting 18 Gores
43
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
44
Tight-Fitting points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: First lay
up
all
rom Z is '/2 inch, rom Y is 2V^ inches. Draw lines from C to through 2
and from
1
for the fashionable waist line as
%
o 15.
20 rom rom
22 23 24 25 26 27
inch, I/4 Vs inch, 18 is ihe same as 3 to 9. from 19 is inch more than is
%
rom 20 is '^ rom 21 is V2 rom F is 1 '^ rom 1 is 1 '^
31
33
34 35 36 37 38 39 40
inch, inch, inches, inches.
s located by drawing a hrough 26.
45
47 48 49 50
53
59
line
from 25
one-third of distance from to 22. the half-way between 22 and 28. s one-third of distance from 26 to 23. s the half-way between 30 and 23. s located by drawing a line from 28 hrough 30. s located by drawing a line from 29 hrough 31.
31 31
Ys inch. Hi inch. 30 is '/4 inch. 30 is Va inch. 26 is V4 inch. 33 is Vs inch. 33 is Vz inch. 32 is Ys inch. 32 is Vz inch. 27 is Va inch. 7 is ^/ inch, and is Va inch higher ban line L- O. rom 5 is inch, and is the same length rom 6 as from P. rom 29 is 1 inch. Finish the side gores as represented. rom 26 is Va inch. rom 27 is 1 inch. rom 2 is inches.
from
is
one-fifth of the distance
from
is
one-fifth of the distance
from
to 54.
located by drawing a
is
located by hrough 49.
drawing a
line
from
E
from
55
through 66.
68 from 66 is Va inch. 69 from 66 is Va inch. 70 is located by drawing 72 73 74 75 73 77 78
79
80 81 82
is
1%
lime
E-49.
60 from 59 is Vz inch. 61 from 59 is Vz inch. 62 from 61 is IVa inches less than K from A. 63 from 62 is 1 inch. 64 from 63 is the same as 62 from 61. 65 from 64 is Ya inch. 6G is the half-way between 65 and 47. 67 is located by drawing a line from 58
is
%
s
one-fifth of the distance
to 54.
58 from 57
is
O
46
53
s
rom rom rom rom rom rom rom 41 rom 42 rom 43 rom 44 rom
through
line
to 54.
57 from 56
71
18
25
32
53
is
o 20. s located by drawing a line from 7 to 20.
28 rom 25 29 30
23 to 54. 5S from 55 is
parallel with line
18 rom 15 19 rom 16
a
parallel with line 1-2.
is located by drawing a line from 53 through 52. 55 from 53 is one-fifth of the distance from
7.
9 rom 3 is lYs inch less than K from A. 10 rom 4 is % inch more than 3 to 9. 11 s located by drawing a line from 8 to 9. Finish the back part as represented, 12 rom 9 is V4 inch, 13 rom 10 is Ys inch. 14 s the half-way between 7 and 8. inch less than 3 to 9. 15 rom 12 is 16 rom 13 is % inch more than 15 from 12. 17 s located by drawing a line from 14
21
Ys inch.
54 1
rom C is 2 inches, rom D is 1% inches, rom O is % inch, rom P is % inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. rom O is 2 inches. rom L is one-third of distance from L o
is
52 from G is 3Va inches. 53 is located by drawing 52
rep: esented.
3 4 5 6
22 Gores
51 from 50
83 84 85 8G
a
line
from
60
parallel with line E-50. from 70 is 1 inch.
71 is Va inch more than 62 from 61. 72 is I'/s inches. 73 is Va inch more than 64 from 63. 74 is % inch. 67 is Va inch. R is Ys inch more than 8 from L. Draw a line from 77 to 55. from 77 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 78 parallel with line 77-55. from 78 is % inch more than 14 from 8. Draw a line from 79 to 56. from 79 is Ya inch for seams. Draw a line from 80 parallel with line 79-56. from U is the same as 45 from 44. from 81 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 82 to 57. Draw a line from 81 parallel with line 82-57. is the half-way between S and V. from 38 is the same length as 48 from 47. from 75 is 1 Va inches. from 64 is the same length as 85 from 65. Finish the front and bottom as repre-
from from from from from from
sented.
By for
cutting out the pattern allow extra all way down as follows
seams
:
% inch at line 8 inch inch inch inch inch inch inch inch
at line al line
at line at line at line at line
at at
9 10. 8-12-13.
14-15 16. 14-18-19.
46-35 39. 28-37-41. 25 38 84.
Hne 83-69-67. Hne 83-68-76.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting 22
45
Gores
42
21
16
10
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
46
Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front up
First lay
points to your measure as described in Systematical
all
Ootline, then
continue as follows: 1
from Z
2 from
is
Y
Draw
inch.
'/i
2'^ inches.
is
C
from
lines
to
1
and from
1
through 2
for
the fashionabie
represented.
3 from C
5 from
is
D
a
inches. inch.
inch.
% inch. % inch.
is
H
!/4
1
is
6 from P 7 from
l'/2
is
4 from 3
is
8 from 4
is
1
9 from 5
is
%
inch
A
to K.
more than the distance from 4
to 8.
more than
inch
the distance from
Finish the back as represented.
10 from 8
is
'/2
from 9
is
1 '/2
12 from 6
is
'/2
inch.
% %
inch.
1 1
13 from F
is
14 from
is
15
is
1
inch.
inch.
located by drawing a line from 13 through 14.
16 from 14 17 from
1
is
is
'/2
is
'/2
19 from 15
is
1
is
inch.
inch,
'/2
18 from 15
20
inches.
and
is
from F the same length as 16 from 13.
and
is
from 17 the same length as 18 from 16.
inch.
inch,
located by line squared out from E.
21 from 2
Draw
is
'/2
line
inch.
from E through 21.
Finish the front
and
side gore as represented.
waist
line
as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi- Fitting Back and Loose Front
47
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
48
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front up
First lay
points to your measure as described in Systematical
all
Ootline, then
continue as follows: 1 from Z 2 from Y
is
'/2
inch.
2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to is
1
and from
1
through 2
for
the
fashionable
represented.
3 from
C
4 from 3 5 from D 6 from P 7 from H 8 from 4 9 from 5
l'/2
is
inches.
a '^ inch.
is is
inch.
1
% inch. % inch.
is is
inch
is
1
is
%
inch
more than the distance from A more than the distance from 4
to K. to 8.
Finish the back as represented.
10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 1 1 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 12 from 6 is '72 inch. 13 from F is % inch. 14 from 1 is % inch. 15 is located by drawing a IG from 14 is '/2 inch.
line
from 13 through 14.
Finish the side gore as represented.
17 from 1 is '/2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 18 from 15 is 1 inch. 19 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 19. 20 from G is 3 Va inches. 21 from 20 is l'/2 inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 24 from 22 is Vz inch. 25 from 24 is 3 inches. 26 from 21 is the same lenghth as 24 from 21. inch. 27 from 23 is 28 from 27 is 3% inches.
%
Finish the front as represented.
29 from 16 30 from 28 31 from 24
same length
is
the
is
l'^ inches.
is
the
same length
as
18 from 17.
as
30 from 26.
Finish the bottom as represented.
waist
line
as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front
49
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
50
Seam
Semi-Fitting French up
First lay
as
points to your measure
all
described in Systematical Outline, then
20 from 18 21 from 7
continue as follows:
from
Z
is
'/2
Y
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
inch.
C
from
lines
22 from to
and from
1
1
as represented.
3 from
C
4 from 3
D
G from
O
7 from P
8
is
inches.
V4 inch.
is
5 from
Draw
l'/2
is
a line from 6 to
9 from 4 from A
10 from 5 from 4 1 1
is
make
the distance
more tham
the distance
as represented.
14 from F 15 from
16
is
is l'/2
1 is
inch.
by drawing a
through 15. 1
7 from
1
5
is
1—2 from 26
line
is
line
from 26
length as
29 from
by drawing a
located
V2 inch.
is
30 from 28
is
Vs inch.
from 29
is
3 inches.
32 from 26
is
the
same
is
3%
inches.
1
33 from 30
Draw
V2 inch.
18 from 8
is
Vs inch.
19 from 6
is
%
inch.
the
is
same width
a line from
%
is
34
as
L
to 8.
to 26.
inch for seams.
a line from
35
parallel
with line
34-26.
36 from 16
% inch. % inch.
located
with line
localed
Draw
V2 inch.
is
by drawing a
is
35 from 34
Finish the back as represented.
13 from 10
27
34 from R
to 9.
is
3'/4 inches.
is
26.
located by drawing a line from 8 to 9
12 from 9
2 inches.
IV2 inches on line drawn from
3
more than
% inch
is
P.
26 from 25 is 25 parallel
29 from 27
7.
K.
to
from
through 27.
the half-way between 6 and 4, or
inch
O
inch.
1
is
is
G
25 from
28
the width to style or taste. is 1
as
parallel with line E- -24.
% inch. % inch.
is
is
same length
Vz inch.
is
24 from 2
inch.
1
is
1
23 from 16
for the fashionable waist line
through 2
the
is
Finish the side gore as represented.
2 from
1
'^ inch.
is
V4 inch.
is
37 from 22
is
the
same length
as
36 from
17. line
from 14
38 from 33
is
39 from 29
is
114 inches. the
same length
as
38 from
32. Finish sented.
the front
and bottom as repre-
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting French
Seam
51
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
52
Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect up
First lay
as
points to your measure
all
described in Systematical Outline, then
continue as follows:
Z
is
V2 inch.
2 from
Y
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
23
to
1
and from
24
as represented.
3 from C
3V4 inches.
is
is I'/a
inches on line drawn from
is
is
line
18-5.
by drawing a
located
paralled with line
1
for the fashionable waist line
through 2
2 inches.
is
G
21 paralled with
from C
lines
21 from
22 from 21
from
1
20 from 2
E
by drawing a
located
line
from 22
line
from 22
-20.
through 23.
3 inches.
25 from 23
1
is
3 inches.
5 from 2
is
3 inches.
26 from 23 is Ya inch, and is from 22 same lenght as 25 from 22.
4 from
Draw
is
from 3
lines
to
4 and from 4
5
to
27
as represented.
6 from 3 7 from
D
8 from P 9 from
10 from 6 11 from 7
29 from
V4 inch.
is
H
%
is
%
is
inch
more than
K
from A.
more than 10 from
6.
Finish the back as represented.
12 from 10 13 from 11
is is
14 from F
is
15 from 4
is
16
% inch. % inch.
19 from 16
is 1
inch. inch.
the
is
length
as
of
is
located by a line squared out from 29.
is
located by a line squared out from 29.
32
is
located by a line squared out from 29.
is
line
from
14
37
is is
the
same length
the
same
as
30 from
10.
length as
35 from
18.
located by a line squared out from 29.
36 from 32
V4 inch.
is '^
garment
inch.
31
35
Finish the back-side gore as represented.
18 from 4
up
30
34 from 17
inches.
is located by drawing a through 15.
17 from 15
%
is
A
33 from 12
'^ inch. I'/i
line
desired.
inch.
l'^ inch
is
V
the
Finish the front as represented.
inch.
is 1
inch.
'/i
is located by drawing a square from the hip line to 26.
28 from
l'^ inches.
is
is
is 1
'^ inches.
a line from 25 through 24, and is from 25 the same length as 36 from 26. is
located by drawing
38 from R
is
1
inch.
Allow for button stand 2 inches for single breasted and 3 inches for double breasted. Finish the bottom as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect
53
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
54
Semi-Fitting Coat with up
First lay
all
Underarm Gore.
points to your measure as described in Systematical
Outline, then
continue as follows:
from
Z
is
'/2
2 from
Y
is
2'^ inches.
1
Draw
inch.
is 1 '/2
4 from 3
is
5 from
D
6 from
M
from
lines
3 from C
C
to
1
and from
2
for the fashionable waist line as represented.
inch.
7 from 6
is
8 from 4
is
3 inches more than
is
to
'^ inch.
is 1
% inch. % inch.
9
1
inches.
is
K
from A.
located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented.
10 from 5
%
is
inch
more than 8 from
4.
Finish the back as represented.
from 7
is
1 Vi
inches.
2 from 9
is
1
inches.
13 from 8
is
2 inches
1 1 1
14 from 10 15
is
'/2
1%
is
inches.
located by drawing a shapad line from 11 to 14 as represented.
16 from 2
17 from
2 inches.
is
Draw a
G
line
from E through 16
is 3'/4
18 from 17
is '/i
for the
run of front center.
inches inch.
19
is
locaied by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line
20
is
located by drawing a line from 18 through 19.
21 from 19
is
Vi inch.
22 from 21
is
3 inches.
23 from 18
is
the
24 from 20
is
% inch.
25 from 24 28 from
is
V
27 from 26
is
28 from 29
is
A
1
is
3%
as 21 from 18.
inches.
% inch. % inch.
the length of garment as desired.
is
located on line squared out from 28.
30 from 15 3
is
same length
is
located
the
on
same length
line
32 from 31
is
l'^ inches.
33 from 21
is
the
same length
Finish the front
as
29 from
8.
squared out from 28.
as
32 from 23.
and underarm gore
as represented.
E
-16.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting Coat with
Underarm Gore.
55
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
56
Sac Coat with Loose Front up
First lay
all
points to your measure as described in Systematical
Outline, then
continue as follows: 1
from Z
is
Y
is
2 from
Draw 3 from
C
4 from 3
inch.
'72
lines
from
6 from
M
to
1
and from
7 from 6
is
8 from 4
is
3 inches more than
is
to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.
inch.
is 1
% inch. % inch.
9
1
'^ inch.
is
D
C
inches.
is 1*72
5 from
inches.
2'/4
is
K
from A.
located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented.
10 from 5
% inch more than 8 from 4.
is
Finish the back as represented. 1 1
from 8
1%
13 from F
14 from
inch.
is '/2
12 from 10
inches.
^h inch.
is
1 is Vj inch.
inches and
15 from 14
is 2'/2
16 from 14
is
Ys inch.
17 from 14
is
ye inch.
18 from 2 19 from
A
is '/2 is
is
located by drawing a line from 13 through 14.
inch.
the length of garment as desired.
20
is
located on line squared out from 19.
21
is
located by drawing a line from
22 from
1 1 is
23 from
R
24
is
is 1
is
same length
as
E through
20 from
18.
8.
inch.
located by a line squared
25 from 24
26
the
is '/2
down from S and
is
2^2 inches below the fashionable waist
line.
inch.
located by drawing a line from
25 through 15 and
is
the half of the pocket
size, in this
case 3 inches.
27
is
located by drawing a line from
6
inches.
28 from S 29 from
30
is
G
is 1
is
26 through 25 and
is
the
full
size, in this
inch.
y2 inch.
located by drawing a line from
28 through 29, and
Finish the draft as represented.
is
in this
case 5 inches long.
case
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sac Coat with Loose Front
57
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
58
Sac Coat with Shaped Front up
First lay
all
points to your measure as described in Systematical
Outline, then
continue as follows:
from
Z
is
'/2
2 from
Y
is
2'^ inches.
1
Draw
lines
3 from C
is
4 from 3
is '^
5 from
D
6 from
M
inch.
from
C
to
1
and from
for the fashionable waist line as represented.
inch.
is
% inch. % inch.
8 from 4
is
3 inches more than
is
2
inch.
is 1
7 from 6
9
to
1
inches.
1 '/i
is
K
from A.
located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented.
10 from 5
%
is
inch
more than 8 from
4.
Finish the back as represented. 1 1
from 8
is
'/2
12 from 10
inches.
1%
is
inches.
13 from F
is '/2
inches.
14 from
is
inch.
1
'/2
2 '/a inches and
15 from 14
is
16 from 14
is '/2
inch.
17 from 14
is
inch.
18 from 2 19 from
21
is
22
is
3'^ inches.
is
20 from 19
located by drawing a line from 13 through 14.
2 inches.
is
G
'/2
is
is l'/2
inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 1—2-
located by drawing a line from
20
located by drawing a line from
20 through
23 from 21
is '/2
inch.
24 from 22
is
%
inch.
25 from 23
is
3 inches and
26 from 24
is
3%
27 from
A
is
parallel with line
from 20 the same length as 23 from 20.
inches
the length of garment as denired.
is
28
is
located on line squared out from 27.
29
is
located on line squared out from 27.
30 from
1 1
is
the
31 from 29
is
1 '^
32 from 23
is
33 from R
is
34 from 33
the
same length
as
28 from
length as 31 from 25.
3^^ inches.
is
8.
inches.
same
E— 18.
21.
% inch for seams.
Finish the draft as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sac Coat with Shaped Front
59
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
60
How To make
to
a shoulder dart
make Shoulder Dart
we must have
first
a french
seam
Put the two parts together so that they should lap over
and B
to
D
as represented.
%
front.
inch from
A
to
C
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
How
to
make Shoulder-Dart
61
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
62
Loose Box Coat up
First lay
points to your measure as described in Systematical
all
Outline, then
continue as follows: 1
from Z
2 from
is
Y
Draw 3
is
inch.
'/2
2'^ inches.
is
lines
4 from 3
is
5 from 3
is
is
V4 inch
is
l'^ inches.
8 from C
is
A
is
% %
10 from L
is
'^ inch.
R
is
%
inch.
12 from 2
is
V2
inch.
9 from
11 from
Draw 13 from is
A
1
through 2 as represented.
F.
inch.
"
E through
12.
the length of garment as desired.
is
located by a line squared out from 13.
16 from 4 is
and from
inch.
a line from
15 from 14
17
1
more than 5 from
1
14
to
% inch. % inch.
7 from 6
6 from
Vz inch.
is
the
is
same length
as 15 from 5.
located by a line squared out from 13.
8 from
7
is
1
19 from 11
is
1
1
C
from
the half-way between F and M.
1
Allow
for
V4
inches.
inch.
button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted.
Finish the draft as represented. If
center.
you wish
to
have the back center without seam, take
off
%
inch
seam
at the
back
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Loose Box Coat
63
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
64
Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart up
First lay
all
points to your
measure as described
Systematical Outline, then
in
continue as follows: 1
fom Z
2 from
inch.
is 1/2
Y
is
2'^ inches.
Draw Lines from C
to 1
and from
1
through 2 as represented.
the half-way betveen F, and M.
3 is inch. 4 from 3 is inch. 5 from 3 is 6 from 1 is '^ inch more than 5 from 7 from 6 is 1 V4 inches. 8 from C is % inch. 9 from A is % inch. 10 from L is V4 inch. 1 1 from R is % inch. 12 from 2 is 2 inches.
% %
Draw a 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
line
from
E
F.
through 12 as represented.
from G is 314 inches. from 13 is iy2 inches on line drawn from 13 parallel with is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. from 16 is V2 inch. from 17 is 3 inches. from 14 is the same length as 17 from 14.
line 1-2.
20 from 15 is % inch. 21 from 20 is 3% inches. 22 from A is the full length as desssired. 23 is located by a line squared up from 22, 24 is located by a line sqoared up from 22. 25 is located by a line squared up from 22. 26 from 24 is V2 inch. 27 from 4 is the same length as 26 from 5. 28 from 25 is l'/4 inches. 29 from 17 is the same length as 28 from 19. 30 from R is inch. Allow
for button stand
3 inches
for single breasted,
4 inches
for
double breasted.
Finish the draft as represented. If
you wish
to
have the back centre without seam, take
off
'„
inch
seam
at te
back centre
To get the front-shoulder dart make the front with french-seam as follows: 31 from 11 is 3% inches. Draw a line from 31 to 14. inch for seams. 32 from 31 is Draw a line from 32 parallel with line 31-14 as represented. To get the shoulder dart bring the front parts together as described an illustrated on
%
pages 60 and 61.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart
65
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
66
Coat Sleeve
1
a straight line as from
Draw
2 from
is
I
Square a
3 from
line
up from
full
4
is
5
is
the center of
is
located by a line squared
7
is
the center of 2-4.
8
is
the center of
by a
line
line
is
2 inches.
10 from 8
is
the
is
2 inches.
same length
from
12
is
the center of 10-11.
13
is
the center of 3-10.
between
14 from
12
is
15 from
1
3
is
16 from
3
is j-o
inch.
17 from
3
is '2
inch.
18 from 6
20 from
7 is 2 incses.
Draw
is
1
22 from 20
is
1
21
is
Draw
-
1
and from
I
through
3.
a line from 4 through 20.
21 from 20
24 from
i
1
2 inches.
is
5 is 3 inches.
4
1
as 8 from
'2 inches.
19 from
23 from
5.
inch.
'4
1
up from
from 8 as represented.
1 1
lines
inch on a line squared up from
1-3.
9 from 9
Draw
1
1-2.
Square out a
I
bust measure plus
squared out from 3 as represented.
located
6
to 2.
2.
a quarter of the
is
1
1
the Sleeve length measure (inside seam).
'
J
is
all
inch. inch.
inch.
l<2
inch.
construction lines as represented.
Shape the top sleeve
as represented
Shape the under sleeve
by
as represented
lines
by
between
lines
I
1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1
I.
between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Coat Sleeve
67
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
68
Sleeve with fulness on top
To make Mark
the sleeve with
the top-sleeve as
The shape ness
is
more
on the head, proceed as follows
fulness
shown by A-B-C-D-E.
of the sleeve
remains always the same between A-B-C-D and
allowed only at points E, F, G,
H
ful-
as desired.
Finish the top-sleeve as represented.
The
under-sleeve
is
not to be changed
One
;
it
remains always the same.
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
To
malce one piece sleeve place the top and under sleeves together at the
back seam
so, that
they should overlap
'4
inch for figuring the seams
the sleeve as represented.
The
cuff
is
represented by heavy, broken lines.
off,
and
finish
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sleeve with fulness on top
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the lop and Cuff
69
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
70
One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom
Bishop Sleeve
Place the fop- and under sleeve together
%
figuring the seams
inch for
and
off,
The lower diagram shows how Square bot-ways from
1.
1
the sleeve length measure (inseam).
1
is
one-quarter of the
between
is
the center
5
is
the
is
the center between
as 1-3 on
same
7 from 2
8 from
10 from
same
the
and
1
full
line
by
direct drafting as follows:
'
4 inch.
4.
from
as 6
I
squared out from
on
1
line
7.
squared out from
6.
2 inches.
is
lines.
and
1 1 is
12
the center between 9 and
13 from
11
is
14 from
12
is
is
is
18 from 8
is
19 from 6
is
'4
1
'4
1
9.
10.
inches.
mch.
2 inches.
5 is 3
17 from 8
they should overlap
1-3.
the center between
16 from
Bust measure plus
Hne squared out from
Connect 1-9-10 by
15 from 4
so, that
2.
as 6 from
2 inches on
is
3
same
the
is
7 is
9 from 6
is
this sleeve
is
4
6
make
seam
as represented.
1
2 from 3 from
to
the back
at
represented by the upper diagram.
finish as
inches.
1
inch.
1
inch.
2 inches.
Connect points as represented.
Shape the sleeve
the top
at 5
and
between
and
front
seam
as represented.
20
is
the center between
21
is
the center
3
and
6.
22
is
located by drawing a
line
from 20 through 21.
23
is
located by drawing a line from 22 through 20.
Fold the paper
at
I
6.
the line 22-20-23 and trace over the under sleeve
8-20-2 bv the heavy, broken hne between points
1
-22- 19-
1
,
and
as
finish the sleeve as
represented represented
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the bottom
Bishop Sleeve
71
;
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
72
One
make
First
A-B. Draw a
Piece Tight Sleeve
a Bishop Sleeve as described on page 70 and then continue as follows
straight line
from
A
A
to B.
C
is
D
from
C
is
the sleeve length measure (inseam) on line squared
E
from
D
is
the half wrist measure plus
F from D
is
the
the.
center between
same
as
and
B.
E from D on
C.
inch for a seam on line squared out from D.
'x
line
down from
drawn from E through D.
Finish the sleeve as represented.
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under
First
A-B-C-D E-F
is
is
make One
arm
Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as follows
the original sleeve.
about the middle of the under-sleeve.
Cut through the sleeve so, that
B-C should be placed
at
to
E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve
A-D
accordingly the notches, and
mark over
the
new
sleeve
ar represented.
By using
this
kind of a sleeve be careful that the
correspond with the seam of the sleeve.
side
seam
of
the
garment should
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
One
C
Piece Tight Sleeve
E
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under arm
73
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
74
and Lapels
Collars
for button stand at the center of front for single breasted
Allow
1
to 2 inches, for
double
breasted 3 to 4 inches.
Showl Collar Diagram
1
the shoulder point.
1 is
inch. is 2 from 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 from 2 is }4 inch more than the width of the back neck on Square up and down from 4. '4 inches. 5 from 4 is 6 from 2 is J4 inches. 7 from 4 is the width of the collar desired. Allow about 4 inch for spring at point 7. Shape the collar and lapel as represented. 1
I
line
drawn from
3
through
2.
1
1
'
Single Breasted Lapel
and Notch Collar
Diagram 2
From
to 7 are the
1
and
finish the lapel
same points
by the Showl Col ar (Diagram
as described
1),
then
),
then
collar as indicated.
Double Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar Diagram 3
From
to 7 are the
1
and
finish the lapel
same points
by the Showl Collar (Diagram
as described
1
collar as indicated.
Two
Piece Collar Diagram 4
First
mark
2 from is 3 is the end 1
4 from
2
is
5 from 2
is
6
the front
and back, then continue
as follows:
the shoulder point.
1 is
is
!/4
1
inches.
of the
break of
lapel.
the width of the collar desired. 1
'4 inches.
by drawing a line from 2 to 3. Shape the collar and lapel as indicated by points
located
Finish the front collar as represented. Trace over the lapel by breaking the paper
2-3-4.
on the crease
line 2-3,
and
finish
the
lapel
as represented.
7-8 is the back neck. 9 from 7 is 2' 2 inches. 10 from 9 is the same width 1 1
from
1
is
shoulder so
the
as 8 from
same length
much
as point 4
7
as 4 from 5 is
on the
line
on the
squared out from
front
and
is
outside from the front shoulder.
Finish the back collar as represented.
9.
locr.ted inside
from the back
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Collars
and Lapels
75
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
76
Collars is the width as desired. Finish the collar as represented. outer leaf of the collar line
9 from 6
Ulster Collar Diagram 1-2.
Draw
A
The
through 2 to 3. inch more than the width of
a line
from
must be
3 from 2 is '4 the back neck. 4 from 3 is '4 inches on hne squared down from 3. '4 inches on line squared down is 5 from
Roll and Button
High Collor
Diagram E
1
1 is
the shoulder point.
1
1
from
9-7-8
slightly stretched.
1
'4 inches. 2 from is 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 2. Draw a a line from 4 through to 5. the width of 5 from is '4 inch more than the back neck. 6 from 5 is '4 inches on line squared down from 5. 7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on line squared up from 5. 8 from 7 is o inch for spring. I
1
1
a straight Hne from 5 to 4. a Hne for the collar stand from 5
Draw Draw
through 2 to
1
3.
6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on squared out from 3. 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. Shape the collar as indicated.
line
1
i
Standing or Military Collar
'
Diagram B
Finish the collar as represented.
through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a Hne from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is inch. 5 from 3 is inch. '4 inches. is 6 from Shape the collar as representend. 1
of
Standing Lay Down Collor from two pieces Diagram F
I
1
1
1
which was produced accordingly Diagram B. '4 inches, and is the same length 5 from is from 2. from 2 as 6 from 2 is the width of the collar deyired on line draw from 2 through 3. 7 from 6 is 2 inch for spring. 1-2-3-4
is
the standing collar, 1
1
Standing Rolling Ulster Collar Diagram C through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a line from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of neck. back the 4 from 3 is '4 inches on line squared down from 3. '4 inches. is 5 from Shape the collar stand from 5 through 1
1
'
Finish the collar as represented.
Storm Collar
1
1
2 to
Diagram
G
1
3.
is the width of collar desired on squared down from 4. 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring.
6 from 4
Shape the
collar as indicated.
The stand
at 5-2-3 is to
line
be stretched.
Standing Rolling Miltary Collar Diagram D through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a line from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is inch. inch. 5 from 3 is '4 inches. 6 from is the width of the roll collar as 3 is 7 from 1
For producing this collar take a standing collar and cut it in three pieces. 1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of three part,
7-8 are produced by dividing the top line
of
the collar of three parts. Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so far as much fullness you desire and finish the collar as represented. Allow for seams betw^een the pieces.
Flat Collor Diagram H
I
1
1
1
desired.
8 from
7 is
'
J
inch for spring.
For producing this collar put to gether the front and back at the shoulder so, that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and mark the collar to the shape desired.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
78
Cape
Circular Diagram
A
Draw
B C
from A from B
a line from
A
through
B.
D
the Back waist-length measure.
is
by applying a tight-fitting back pattern 2 inches, by a semi fitting back and by a loose box pattern j inches, coat back pattern draw line A-B on the
back center line of te pattern. is located by placing the back and together
is
the
at
seams
and
'
1
1.
they should overlap;
off
finish
front
the shoulder so, that figuring
the
circular
'4
inch,
cape as
rep-
resented.
Cape with One Shoulder Dart Diagram
To produce
cape with one shoulder
a
dart continue on the circular cape (Diagr.
1)
2.
der dart.
from
J
as follows:
A
and D.
E
is
the center between
F
is
located by a line squared out from E.
is
located by a line
G H I
from F from G
the length of shoulder.
is
the half
we want
amount
to take out for
is
same
as
I
from G.
Take
out fulness H-l-J-H.
F-
will
seam F-H.
and it form a shoulder dart F-H-F as represented
on Diagram
of fulness,
the
the shoulder
Join together lines H-i with H-J,
drawn from E through
is
G
Open
producing a shoul-
2.
Allow^ for seams at the shoulder dart,
which
and
finish as represented.
Cape with Two Shoulder Darts Diagram
To Produce
a
cape with two shoulder
darts continue on the circular cape (Diagras follows
K
:
from F
is
L from G
is
M
I)
'
'
2
inch.
2
inch.
K is the shoulder length on line drown K to L. N from K is ^2 inches. from from
3.
O.
Q
frpm L is to be taken out fulness as desired. from L is to be taken out fulness as desired. S from P the same as Q from L. T from P is the same as R from L. Open the shoulder seams from K to and from N to O. Take out fulness R-M-Q and S-O-T.
R
M
Join together lines
1
O P
M
is 3 inches and from from shoulder length. is
located
by drawing
a line
from
N
is
the
M through
with
T-O
to forni the
Allow
for
as represented.
seams
R-M
with Q-M, also S-O
two shoulder
darts.
at the darts,
and
finish
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Capes
79
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
80
Yoke
To produce
a yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that
they should overlap
'4
inch for
figuring
the
seams
off,
and
finish the
represented.
Hood
The hood
A-B
is
is
constructed from a cape as follows
inches, or
1
C
from B
D
from
C
is
E
from
D
is
is
1
one I
more
or less accordingly style or taste.
inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches. third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches.
inch.
Finish the hood as represented.
yoke as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Yoke
Hood
81
4 3
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
82
Cape Coat
To produce Take a points
a
Cape Coat proceed as
loose box coat pattern
follows
and mark the
direction,
same
front
as
it
is
represented by
1-2-3-4-5-6-1. Place the back part so that points 9 and
one
:
and
in the
direction as points
Mark
same time be I
and
1
from 4
is
I
and
7.
allowed for fulness desired.
front of the
The back
of the
in
by points 7-8-9-10-11-12-7,
Shape the side seam as represented by points
The
and 8 should be
2.
the center between
is
should be with points 3 and 4 in
careful that points 7
the back pattern as represented
1
1
Cape Coat Cape Coat
is
is
1
3
-
2 - 14.
6-13-2-14-5-6. 12-13-2-14-11-12.
the
•
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Cape Coat
Te
AS
.1=:^—
83
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
84
Cape with Kimono Sleeves
First
produce a Cape Coat as described on page 82, then continue as follows:
Draw a
straight line
1
5
from
I
5
from 2
1
3
is
is
from
1
3 through 2
till
1
5.
the sleeve length desired.
the
same length
Draw^ a curved line from
I
as
5 to
1
1
5
from
2.
6 as represented.
front
is
13-2- 15- 16- 14-5-6-13.
The back
is
13-2-15-16-14-11-12-13.
The
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Cape with Kimono
Sleeves
85
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
86
Coat with Kimono Sleeves
A
A. Square both ways from
B C
from
D
from
A A A
from
E
from B
as represented.
9 from L
is
the Scye depth measure.
10 from
is
the Back waist length measure.
1 1
is
the
full
plus
4
down from
A
J from
K L
from B
N
from
M
Q
from
I
12 from 4
is
'2
13 from
is
1/4 inches.
14
by a
is
squared out from K.
inch
''s
B-E
plus 2 inches.
than B from A.
less
a
from
line
A
G
is
T
from S
is
W
from
X Y
from
R
W
is
A
is
2 from C
is
from
1
3
is
more than
inch
â&#x20AC;˘4
's 1
K
a
line
from
A
5
is
located by a line squared
6 from 4
is
7 from
is
5
1
line
down from
4.
'4
and
is
the
/o
inch wider
13
is
is
I
17
a
line
from
same length from
2*2 inches.
the
is
from
5
1
R
as L-9.
than
1
from
14
as 8 from
1
I
I
17
is
0.
same length
and
shape
0.
located by a line squared
is
19
is
'4
down from
inch.
located by a line squared
down from
20-Y. 21
Allow
is
2 '4 inches.
2 inches for single breasted
but-
ton stand and finish the front as represented.
inch.
/<!
Seam allowances
inches.
located by a line
and a
I
22 from
2.
12
G.
21
drawn
T
same length
18 from 19
from
9.
20 from
the center beetwen S and M.
7
E.
inch.
is
is
from A.
down from
4
8
from G.
'2 inches.
by
located
through
is
from
as
located by a line squared
is
R
2 inches.
line
located by a line squared out from 15
is
the
3/4 inches. r'4 inches less than
is
located by drawing
is
16
drawing a
3.
I
through
17 from
through Q.
S from
15
inch.
by
located
is
and
inch.
'4
is
line
part of
'4
is
5
through
the half of E-G.
located by drawing
is
10
a line squared
9.
inches.
2/4 inches. is
located
is
from
line
-
part of B-E.
S/li
is
A
M R
/4
is is
I
from
a
C Y and
Finish the back as represented.
E
from
from
1
located by drawing
is
inches.
G
inch.
'4
is
parallel with line
length desired.
the half Bust measure
is
28 '4 inches.
is
7
drawn from 6 through
sqarad out from
1-3.
of
's
For a whole back take center
's
inch allowed. off at the
inch seam as represented.
back
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Coat with Kimono Sleeves
87
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
88
Raglan Coat
up
First lay
all
points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows
1
is
located by a line squared
2
is
located by a line squared
3 from
C
is
F.
down from
E.
:
inch.
1
4 from D
is
l^ inch.
5 from F
is
;)4
Z
is
6 from
down from
inch.
'4 inches.
1
Finish the back as represented.
7 from F
8 from 9 from
is
J4 inches.
1
is
I
inch.
I
10 from
G
is
1
11 from
R
is
1
12 from 10 by
7 from
a line from 14 to the
12
is
the
3
is
'4
1
Draw
19 from
is
2
21 from
1
arm scye below
same as
15
is
located
%
point
V
as represented.
inch above the line drawn from 14 to below V.
from 11.
from
this line
''4
1
inch below
L
to the
arm scye
at
the back as represented,
and
inch.
inch.
â&#x20AC;˘4
is
is
inch,
1
and draw the crease
is
line.
the desired length.
located by drawing a line from
23 from 22
1
'4
off the
18 through 19.
inches.
shoulder pieces from the front and back and add
top sleeve as represented to In this draft are off,
and
10,
a line from 18 through 19 for the front centre. Allow 2 inches for button stand. 3
A
Cut
squared up from
/^ inch.
is
Draw
20 from
line
pivoting at point 10.
inch.
a line
18 from E
is
from 10 on
R
/4 inch.
is
shape above
22
as 11
located by drawing a curwed line
16 from 1
same length
2|4 inches.
is
R
Draw is
inches.
swesped forward from
13 from 10
15
inch. '4
the
is
a line
14 from
inch.
'4
is
Z
's
make
these
inch seams allowed except where the shoulder
has to be allowed for seams.
pieces to the
the raglan sleeve.
pieces were cut
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Raglan Coat
J3_I2
89
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
90
Deep Armhole Coat
Diagram
First draft
1
and cut out a coat with Kimono sleeves as described on page 86,
then
continue as follows
Lay together the
%
front
and back
inch for taking the seams
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-1 is the 8-9-10-11 -12-13-14-8
off,
at the
shoulder seam
so, that
they shoald
overlap
and mark the coat from one piece.
front.
the back.
is
Diagram 2 15
is
the center between 7 and
16 from
15
17 from
15
18 from 4 19 from
11
%
is is is
is
inch,
the
same
2 inches,
the
more
same
8.
or less accordingly style or taste.
as 16 from 15.
more
or less accordingly style or taste.
as 18 from 4.
Shape the seams from 16
to
18 and from
1
7 to
19 accordingly
style
or
ta.ste
as
represented.
20 from
16
is
the
same length
as the shaped line
and
is
shaped inside
19 and
is
shaped inside
is
from 16
to 18
is
from 17
to
accordingly fullness desired under the arm.
21 from 17 the
is
the
same way
same length
as the shaped line
as point 20.
Finish the draft ss represented.
By
cutting out the patterns allow for
seams
at lines
16-18, 16-20, 17-19 and 17-21.
JTiEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Deep Armhole Coat
Diagram
Diagram
1
2.
91
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
92
One
This pattern
Lap over
A
esented by
is
Piece Coat
constructed from a semi
-
fitting
the two front parts at the bust of
and
and open the patterns
B,
'4
at the
block pattern as follows
:
inch for taking the seams off as rep-
hip line of
I
inch as
C
to D.
r
By applying the
same
method be
this
direction as
E-
careful that the notches at the w^aist line
F.
Put together the front and back
Lay over the two back patterns as represented by
I
Continue the a
same with
S
is
is
line
whole back
at
the side
seam
at
the shoulder of
N-O
is
'4
be
H.
-
inch for taking the seams off at the
hip line at K.
L - M.
the
seme
direction as
points
P-Q
and connect
in
to the length desired.
required, take off
for button stand as
the end of the crease 1
G
and put together the same pattern
's
a straight line.
Allow
R
J,
at
careful that the notches at the waist line should
Be
If
and
should be in
much line.
inch from the neck point.
Finish the draft as represented.
desired.
inch seam
at
the
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
One
Piece Coat
93
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
94
New Market
To make
a
New
Market Coat or a Skirted Jacket proceed as follows
:
Cut out the pattern as represented by the upper diagram. Cut
off
Put the
the skirt at the waist line as represented skirt pieces together so,
waist and hip for taking
off
the
that
they should
seams and mark the
ted by heavy line on the diagram below.
by
1
-2-3-4-5.
overlap
skirt in
U inch
at
the
one piece as represen-
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
New Market
95
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
96
Inverness
First lay
from
1
2 from
Z Y
up
/4 inch.
is
2/4 inches.
Connect points
3 from
A
points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows
all
is
the
is
C-
I
and
I
-
2 for the fashionable waist line.
length measure.
full
Square out from 3 as represented.
4 is located by a line squared down from M. 5 from C is /4 inch. 6 from A is '}^ inch. 7 from L is ^^ inch. 8 from 4 is Y2 inch. 9 is located by drawing a line from P through
8.
Finish the back as represented.
10 from
Z
Yz inch.
\s
located by drawing a line from
11
is
12-
from 4
13
is
E through
10.
M
12,
3 inches.
is
located by drawing a line from
through
and
is
from
M
the
same
length as
9 from M.
14 from 15 from M 16 from R I
17
is
is
1
is is
I
inch.
3 inches. ^'4
inch.
the center of
Draw 18 from F
a line
A-B. from
1
6 through
1
7.
the Sleeve length measure.
is
19
is
located by a line
sweeped from 18 pivoting
20
is
located by a line
sweeped from
21 from
19
Allow
is
I
16. 16.
inches for single breasted,
33^2
at
inch.
for button stand 2'
22 from 6 is inch. 23 is the length of the crease Draw a line from 22 to 1
point
18 pivoting at point
2
I
line.
23.
Finish the draft as represented.
16-20-18-21
is
the cape.
inches for double breasted.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Inverness
97
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
98
Opera Cloak Measures Scye depth 7/4 inches.
Bust 40 inches.
Back waist length 15/^ inches. Full length 50 inches.
Waist 26 inches. Hips 41 inches.
To Draft 1.
as represented. Square both ways from is the Scye depth measure. length measis the Back waist 1
2 from 3 from
1
I
ure.
3
is
6 inches.
5 from
1
is
the
Square out
length mesure.
full
from
lines
2,
3,
2
Yi inch.
is
21 from 8 is the same as 16 from I. 22 from 2 is the same as 2 from 23 from 22 is 33^4 inches. 24 from 23 is the same as 3 from
1
4.
2,
in
6 inches.
is the same as 12 from lO on squared up from 23. from 22 is r'4 inches less than 25 from
line
is
26
is
one-quarter of the Bust meas-
27 from
23.
1
2
inches.
9 is located by a line squared down from 8. 10 from 8 is half of the distance 2-8, 6 inches. Square up from 10 as represented. 1 1 from 6 is /4 inch. 12 is located by drawing a line from throubh 13 is the center of 2-8. in this case
is
2 inches.
14
is
/s inch less than line
squared
the
up
is
half
of
the
distance
Scye from
2-13,
3 inches.
17 is located by a line squared up from 16. 18 from 15 is 2 inch on line drawn from 3
17 through
15.
14
is
1
inch.
22
is
1
inch.
21
Sweep 1
14.
in this case
25 is the same as 18 from 17 on drawn from 25 through 26.
28 from 29 from 30 from
is
about
1;'4
on
inches
line
line
from 29
to
28
pivoting
at
point 30.
31 from 25
is
32 from
is
on
3
depth measure on
line
squared up from 21.
1
1
1
1
25 from 23
ure plus 2 inches, in this case
1
this' case
534 inches. 234 inches on line squared out
is
1
7 from 6 from 6. 8 from 2
16 from
the center of 14-15.
1
4 and 5 as
represented.
14 from 15 from
is
1
4 from
6 from
19
20 from
2 inches.
/^ inch more than 16 from 1 squared out from 31. located by a line squared out from 24.
31
line
33 is 34 from 9 is 3i2 inch. 35 from 33 is 234 inches. 36 from 35 is Yl inch. 37 is located by a line drawn
from
through 36.
38 from
37
is
1
inch.
Finish the draft as represented.
24
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Opera Cloak
99
5 6
:
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
100
Manipulation of Fronts and Backs
The Back The back
part
is
drawn by heavy
and
lines,
is
constructed with a seam
at
the back
center.
If
no seam
Draw Cut 4 to
w^anted at the back center proceed as follows
is
a straight line from
5-3-2-5 and add
piece
off the
through 2
I
to
the
5.
same
to the
back as represented
from
6.
Take
seam
off the
j'g
from
inside
line
I
-
5 as represented
by
line
7.
The Front The
front part
is
drawn by heavy
lines
and
is
constructed with a seam at the front
center.
If
no seam
8- 13-
line
Take out
fulness as
by a
straight line
much you gained
8- 13-
14.
at the front
center
14.
fulness as follows:
1
from
1
1
1
from
1
2
Take
much
out at the front dart so
by drawing the
proceed as follows
at front center,
straight chest line as represented
Continue the
Take
wanted
is
off the
is
the
same
as
is
the
same
as
seam
%
from
I
3
1
4 from
9.
1
0.
inch inside from line 8- 13- 14 as represented by line 17.
TH E AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Manipulation of Fronts and Backs
10
12
101
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
102
Single Breasted Vest
up
First lay
all
points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows
from
1
2 from
Z Y
inch.
is
"JA.
is
2/4 inches.
Draw
from
lines
C
to
1
and from
through 2 for the fashionable
I
waist
line
as
represented.
3 from C
4
is
2 inches.
is
the half-way between F and M.
5 from 4
is
%
6 from
is
4 inches.
I
inch.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 4
is
/4 inch.
8 from 2
is
\%
Draw 9 from
G
10 from 9 1 1
is
line
inches.
from E
is
3J4 inches.
is
l^j inches
to 8.
on
line
drawn from 9
located by drawing a line from
1
parallel with line
1-2.
parallel with line E-8.
12 from
11
is
13 from
I
is
2?4 inches.
14 from
10
is
the
15 from 12
is
about 5 inches on line drawn from 12 parallel with line 10-11.
is
the
16 from 17 from
I
14 1
1
J4 inches.
same length
same
U
'2
is
Allow
20 from
is
'4
from 12 on
line
drawn from
14 parallel with line
10-11.
1
inch.
inch.
inch for button stand and finish the front as represented.
3
is
3 inches.
21 from 6
is
3 inches.
Take
15
10.
2*4 inches.
is
18 from the neck gorge 19 from
as
as 12 from
out
as represented.
,'4
inch above line 3-6 and
1
inch below the line 3-6 and finish the skirt
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Single Breasted Vest
103
:
TEH AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
104
Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest
up
First lay
all
points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows
from
1
2 from
Z Y
inch.
is
/<2
is
2K
Draw
inches.
C
from
lines
to
1
and from
through 2 for the fashionable
I
waist
line
as
represented.
3 from
C
3 inches.
is
is 3 inches. 4 from Draw line from 3 5 from C is 2 inches. 1
6
is
located by drawing a line from
7 from 3
8
is
to 4.
is
10 from
is
%
is
2?^ inches.
is
2 inches.
1
to
5.
F and M.
the center between
9 from 8
A
inches.
/<i
1
inch.
1 1
from 4
12
is
the center between 6 and 9-
13
is
the center between 7 and
11.
10
is
's
inch less than the center between
15 from 14
is
%
inch.
14 from
10 and
5.
Finish the back as represented.
16 from 8
is
17 from 4
is
1
is
1
1
8 from
2
19 from
G
20 from
19
/4 inch.
is is
inch.
%
inches.
3J4 inches.
on
1/^ inches
line
drawn from
19 parallel with line
located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line
21
is
22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
from 21
is
1*4
from 22
is
about
from
21
is
2*4 inches.
from 20
is
the
same length
from 25
is
the
same
5
Make
is
H
1
1
-2.
8.
inches on line drawn from 22 parallel with line 20-21.
from the front center
U
-
inches.
from the neck gorge
from
E
as 22 from 20.
as 23 from 22 on line is
'4
line
drawn from 25
parallel with line
20 -21.
inch.
E- 18
is
2^
j,
inches for button stand.
inch.
the french cut as described on
page
36,
and
finish
the front as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest
105
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
106
By applying
the System for Stout or Maternity sizes pay attention to the Waist
Suppression and Hips Development as described on page 20.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Table of Proportionate Measurements For Stout or Maternity Sizes
SIZE
107
:
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
108
Seam
Semi-Fitting French
For Stout or Maternity Sixes
Measures Scye depth 7*4 inches. Back waist length 15'/) inches.
Bust 39 inches.
Waist 30 inches.
Hips 45 inches
To Draft up
First lay
points to the above meas-
all
urement as described
in
Systematic Out-
then continue as follows
line,
from Z is Jo inch. 2 from Y is 2/4 inches. and from Draw^ lines from C to through 2 for the fashionable waist line 1
I
1
7 from
P
Draw
is
inches.
34
1
J4 inch.
is
inch.
is
1
is
% '4
is
inch.
a line from 6 to
7.
1
A
10 from
to K. 5
is
is
'/(i
inch
more than
the
26
inch.
is
32
is
's
is
3 inches.
is
the
31 from 29 32 from 26
inch.
same
lenth as 29 from
26.
36 from 37 from
6
1
22
inch.
is
34
is
the
same
length as 36 from
17.
38 from 39 from
33
is
29
is
'4
I
inches.
same
the
length as 38 from
The
Systematic waist measure
is
1
4 inch-
es less than the Bust measure, in this case
located by drawing a line
from 8
to
39 less
4
1
25
is
waist measure
from 9 is 3^ inch. from 10 is 1/^ inches. inch. from F is inch. is from by drawing a is located through 15.
inches
Systematic
the
the actual waist
;
measure
30 inches, the half of the difference (2/4 inches) is to be added to
Finish the back as represented.
in this case
is
the dart as follows
40 from
% %
I
29 from 27 30 from 28
dis-
9.
9 as represented.
12 13 14 15 16
draw^ing a line from
32.
tance from 4 to 1 1
by
located
34-26.
inch.
8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or make the width to style or taste. inch more than the distance 9 from 4 is from
is
through 27.
33 from 30 is 3*4 inches. 34 from R is the same width as L to 8. Draw a line from 34 to 26. 35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams. Draw a line from 35 parallel with line
as represented.
3 from C 4 from 3 5 from D 6 from O
28
from 14
line
31
is
2' 2
inches.
41 from 26
is
the
same
from 26. 42 from 33
is
'
>
inch
length as 32 from
more
than 40 from
31.
17 from 15 18 from 8 19 from 6 is
/2 inch.
i
20 from 21 from
1
7
8
is is
^
inch.
;'/K
inch.
/4
the
43 from The
inch.
from
1
is
frorn,_.l6 is
same length
as
O
from
P.
same
the
length as 38 from
Systematic
39 plus 20,
1
add
Hip measure
1
inch
the Bust measure, in this
case
is
40 inches, the
to this the
same
es the half
inch.
from 2 is 2 inches. from G is 334 inches. from 25 is Ij inches on line drawn - 2. from 25 parallel w^ith line 27 is located by drawing a line from 26 parallel with line E-24. 1
I
Compare actual
as
20 plus 2'2 Hip measure. this
it
is
is
40 from
22'2 inch-
vvith the half of
22/2
Hip measure
is
half of this is
31, in this case
34 inch. I
is
more than
Finish the side gore as represented.
22 23 24 25 26
41
32.
(2234);
if
there
is
the
any
off by smallbe added by larger hi.j at points 36, 37, 10 and 13 equally divided. Finish the diagram as represented.
difference,
er hip,
and
it
has to be taken
to
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting French
Seam
For Stout or Maternity Sixes
109
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
no
Waist
Shirt
First lay
up
all
points to your measure
as
described in
Systematical Outline,
then
continue as follows: 1
from Z
2 from
Y
is '/2 is
Draw 3 from C
is
4 from
is
5
is
1
inch.
2'^ inches. lines
4
from C
to
1
and from
4 inches.
Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 is
7 from 4
is
Draw is
as represented.
2 inches.
%
inch.
lines
A-6-7 for
tight-fitting back-,
and
for loose
back draw
line
from
A
to 7.
the center of F-M.
9 from 8
is '/2
10 from 8 1 1
from
12
is
is
inch.
is '/2
1 is
inch.
4 inches.
the center of 1-11.
13 from 12
14
2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.
to
located by a line squared up from D.
6 from C
8
1
inches.
is 2'/2
inches.
located by drawing a line from Finish front
The back
X through E and is from E
the
same
length as 5 from E.
and back as represented.
center for tight-fitting back
is
A-6-7 and for gathering the back at the waist
allow fulness in the waist by drawing a line from
A to
3
as.
represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Shirt
Waist
III
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
112
Waist with Side Gore
Shirt
First lay
up
all
measure as described
points to
in
Systematical Outline then continue
as follows:
from
Z
is '/2
2 from
Y
is
1
Draw 3 from C
4 from 5
is
inch,
2'^ inches. lines
from
is
4
inches.
1 is
4
inches.
C
to 1
and from
1
to
for the fashionable waist line as represented.
2
located by a line squared up from D.
6 from C
8 from
1%
is
M
9 from 8
2 inches.
is
7 from 3
inches.
is 1 '/4 is '/2
inches.
inch.
A
10 from 6
is
1
inch
more than
the space from
11 from 7
is
1
inch
more than
the space from 6 to 10.
12
is
to K.
located by shaping the line from 9 to 10, Finish the back part as represented.
13 from 10
14 from 11 1
5 from F
IG from
is
1 is
Draw 17 from 16
18 from 19
is
is
%
inch.
Wz
inches and
is
from 13 the sams length as 11 from 10
% inch. % inch.
line is
1 is 1
%
from 15
to 16.
inch.
inch.
the centre of 17-18.
20 from 19 21
is
is
ts 2'/2
inches.
located by drawing a line from Finish the side gore
and
X
through E, and
front as represented.
is
from E the same length as 5 from
E
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Shirt
Waist with Side Gore
113
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
114
Tight- Fitting Waist Lining up
First lay
all
points to
measure
as described in Systematical Outline, then
continue
as follows: 1
from Z
is
'/2
Y
is
2'^ inches.
2 from
Draw
inch.
lines
from
C
to
1
and from
1
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as
represented.
3 from
C
is
4 inches.
4 from
1
is
4
5
is
Draw 6 from C 7 from 3
8
is
inches.
located by a line squared lines
2 inches.
is
%
is
up from D.
between 3-4 and 5 as represented.
inch.
the centre of F-M.
9 from 8
1 1
from
12
is
% inch. % inch.
is
10 from 8
is
4
1 is
inches.
the centre of 1-11.
13 from 12
is
2'/2 inches.
Finish back part as represented:
14 from 2 15
is
16 from
G
is
17 from 16
18
is
1%
is
inches.
located by drawing a line from
is
IVz inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2.
is
l'/4
20 from 18
is
2%
inches.
21 from 17
is
the
same length
is
14.
located by drawing a line from 17 parallel with line
19 from 18
22
E through
3'^ inches.
El 4.
inches.
as 19 from 17.
located by drawing a line from 19 parallel with line 14-15.
23 from 22
is
24 from 15
is
4%
inches.
Ye inch.
Finish the front
and back
as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining
115
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
116
Tight- Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore First lay
up
all
measure as described
points to
in
Systematical Outline, then continue
as follows: 1 from 2 from
Z
is '/2
Y
is
Draw
inch.
2 V2 inches. lines
from
C
to 1
and from
1
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as
represented.
3 from C is 4 inches. 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 5 is located by a line squared up from D. Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 6 from C is 2 inches. 7 from 3
is
1%
inch.
8 from 12 is 1 '^ inches. 9 from 8 is Yz inch. 10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 1 1 from 7 is 1 inch more than the distance from 6 to 10. 12 is located by shaping a line from 9 to 10. Finish back part as represented. from 10 is % inch. from 11 is IV2 inches, and is from 13 the same length as from F is inch, from 1 is inch. Draw line from 15 to 16. 17 from 16 is % inch. 18 from 1 is 1 inch. 19 is the centre of 17-18. 20 from 19 is 2'/2 inches. 21 from 2 is 1% inches. 22 is located by drawing a line from E through 21. 23 from Gis 3!4 inches. 24 is located by drawing a line through 26 parallel with line 25 is located by drawing a line from 24 through 26.
13 14 15 16
1 1
% %
2G is the centre of 24-25. 27 is the centre of 24-26. 28 is located by drawing a 29 from 28 is Vs inch. 30 from 28 is % inches. 31
is
32 33 34 35 36 37 38
from 31
line
from 27 parallel with
located by drawing a line from
30
is 1
from from from from from
is
29
E
21.
parallel with line 21-22.
IVi inches.
inch less than the distance from
32 33
line
inch
more than
is
'^
is
2 inches.
1-2.
A
to
K.
the distance from
26 is the same length as 33 from 26. 34 is 2'^ inches. 22 is Ys inch. Shape front and side gore as represented.
30
to 33.
from 10.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining with Side Gore
17
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
118
Sleeve Construction for Waist 1
Draw
2 from
a straight line as from
Square a 3 from
4
1 to 2.
the sleeve length measure.
1 is
line
up from
a quarter of the
1 is
2. full
bust measure on a line squared
5
is
the centre of 1-2.
6
is
located by a line squared up from 5.
7
is
the centre of 2-4.
8
is
the centre of 1-3.
Square out a
9 from 8
1.
from
line
from 8 as represented.
2 inches.
is
10 from 8 1 1
up from
located by a line squared out from 3 as represented.
is
lines
12
is
13
is
the centre of 3-10.
inch. inch.
16 from 3
is '/a
17 from 3
is '/a inch.
18 from 6
is
2 inches.
19 from 5
is
3 inches.
20 from
is
2 inches.
Draw a
line
from 4 through 20.
2 1 from 20
is
1 inch.
22 from 20
is
1 inch.
23 from 4
is '/a
24 from 21
Draw
3.
IV2 inches.
is
15 from 13is%
7
1.
between 11-10 and from 10 through
the centre of 10-11.
14 from 12
as 8 from
2 inches.
1 is
Draw
same length
the
is
is
inch.
Vi inch.
all
construction lines as represented.
Sleeve for Waist First
lay
up
all
points
to
measure as described
in Sleeve
Construction
then continue as follows:
Shape the top sleeve as represented dy
Shape the under sleeve
lines
between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-11.
as represented by lines
between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9.
for
waist
JHE AMERICAN
DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sleeve Construction for Waist
Sleeve for Waist
119
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
120
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the bottom
Bishop Sleeve
Place the top- and under sleeves together at
should over lap
-'4
inch for taking the seams
One
off,
the
and
back seam
so,
that
they
finish as represented.
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam
should overlap
The
'4
Cuff
inch for is
takmg the seams
off,
and
represented by heavy, broken
so,
that
they
finish the sleeve as represented.
lines.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the bottom
Bishop Sleeve
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
121
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
122
One
First
make
a Bishop Sleeve as described on page
A-B. Draw a straight
C
is
D
from
C
E
from
D is
F from D
is
A
from
line
the center between is
Piece Tight Sleeve
A
and
1
20 and then continue as follows
to B.
B.
the sleeve length measure (inside seam) en line squared the half wrist
the
same
as
measure plus
E from D on
's
line
down from
C.
inch for a seam on line squared out from D.
drawn from E through D.
Finish the sleeve as represented.
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under
First
A-B-C-D E-F
is
is
make One
arm
Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue
as
fellows
:
the original sleeve.
about the middle of the under-sleeve.
Cut through the sleeve so, that
B-C should be placed
at
to
E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side
A-D
accordingly the notches, and mark over the
of the sleeve
new
sleeve
as represented.
By using
this
kind of a sleeve be careful th
correspond with the seam of the sleeve.
it
the
side
seem
of
the
garment should
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under
arm
123
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
124
Standing or Military Collar
A. Square both ways from
B C
A
from is
A
D
from
from B
F
is
I
as represented. '4
inch for two seams.
3 inches.
is
3 inches
is
on
the center of line
from E
is
D
is
from
from F
from
squared up from
B.
to E.
inch.
'4
inch.
'4
''4
is
A
line
drawn from D
"4 inch.
is
J from B
K
A
measure plus
the center of A-B.
E
G H
the half neck
is
is
inch. inch.
'4
Shape the Collar as represented. Line
A-C
is
the back center.
High Standing Collar
A. Square both ways from A.
B
from
A
is
the half neck measure plus
C from A is D from B is E from D is
3 inches '4
inch.
F from B
'4
inch.
G
from
C
is is
's
inch fcr one seam.
3 inches.
'4
on
line
squared up from
B.
inch.
Fold the paper on
Shape the
line E-F,
which
collar as represented.
is
the front center.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Standing or Military Collar
High Standing Collar
125
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
126
Dutch Collar Diagram
Lay the Front and Back together lap
%
inch for taking the seams
off
and
1
at the
shoulder
so,
that
they
should over
finish the collar as represented.
Norman
Collar
Diagram 2
Lay lap
A B C
'4
the Front
inch for
and Back together
taking the seams
off
at the
is
the neck point.
is
the point where the collar should end.
from is
A
from
is
A
shoulder
so, that
and continue as follows
they
should
a straight line drawn parallel with the front center of the garment the
same lehgth
as
over
:
and
B from A.
Sailor Collar Diagram 2
Lay lap
'4
the Front
and Back together
at the
shoulder
so,
that
they
inch for taking the seams off and finish the collar as represented.
should
over
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Collars for
DIAGRAM
1
127
Waist
DIAGRAM
2
/ /
.-â&#x20AC;¢^
/'
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
128
Yoke
To produce they
should
a
overlap
Yoke 4
lay the
inch
back and front together
for
figuring
the
seams
at the
off,
shoulder
and
finish
that
so,
the
Yoke
as represented.
Shield
To produce that
a Shield lay the back and
they should overlap
as represented.
\^
inch
for
figuring
front
the
together
seams
off,
at
the
and
shoulder
so,
finish the shield
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Yoke
Shield
129
.
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
30
Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves
up
First lay
Z Y
from
1
2 from
is
4
is
C
J
7 from
a line
10 from
is
O
12 from
1
',s
is
as
%
is
line
1
from
on
3
line
O
drawn from
squared up from
inch.
the center between 5 is
15 from
12
6.
through L.
full
length of a regular 36 size
the width of sleeve desired on line squared
is
through
5
8.
the sleeve length desired. (For the
14 from
drawn from
7.
inch on line
sleeve for regular 36 size
13
1
same length
on
/o
is
1
5 to
a line from 3 to
is
11 from 9
from
inches.
the
5 is
Draw
9 from 8
to 2.
between F and M.
is 2J'4
8 from L
and
1
'4 inch.
is
1
to
2 inches.
Draw 6 from
C
the fashionable waist line from
is
the center
5 from 4
points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows;
2*4 inches.
is
Draw 3 from
all
inch.
'
2 inches,
I
I
and
1.
is
12.
drawn from
14 through 12.
Finish the back as represented.
16 from 17 from
R U
is
inch.
'
1;
'4 inch.
is
18 from 16
is
the
same length
19 from
is
the
same width
20
is
18
as
1
1
from 9 on
as 12 from
1
1
line
on
drawn from
line
squared
1
6 through
down from
I
7.
18.
the center between 18 and 19.
21 from
5 is
22 from
21
23 from E
the
is is
same length
the
the
as 14 from
same length
same length
Finish the front
as 15
5.
from 14 on
as 2 from
as represented.
E on
line
line
drawn from
drawn from
X
29 '2 inches.)
(By a
or less accordingly style or taste.
inch on line
is '2
1
6 inches.
is
more
down from
21 through 19.
through E.
full
length
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves
^23_
131
.
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
32
One
and cut out
First draft
then continue as follow^s
Lay together the
Piece Butterfly Waist
a waist pattern with
and back
front
-2-3-4-5-6-7-1
IS
at the
mark
inch for taking the seams off and i
kimono
sleeves as described on
page
I
30,
:
shoulder seam
so, that
they should
overlap
'4
the w^aist from one piece.
the front.
8-9-10-11-12-13-14-8
IS
the back.
Waist with Raglan Sleeve
To produce
mark
this pattern, first
a waist with
described above, then continue as follows
15
is
the center between 7 and
16 from 1
7 from
15 1
5 is
18 from 4 19 from
1
is
is
t
'4
the
same
2 inches,
is
the
more
inch,
as
1
more
same
as
1
Shape the seams from
20 from
16
is
the
21 from
1
7 is
same way
the
from one piece as
sleeves
8.
or less accordingly style or taste.
6 from
1
5
or less accorcingly style or taste.
8 from 1
4.
6 to 18 and from
same length
ingly fulness desired
Kimono
:
I
7 to 19
as the shaped line
accordingly style or taste as represented.
is
from
is
from
6 to 18 and
I
is
shaped inside accord-
under the arm.
same length
as the
shaped
line
1
7 to
19
and
is
shaped
inside
as point 20.
Finish the draft as represented.
By
cutting out the pattern allow for
seams
at lines 16-18,
16-20, 17-19
and 17-21.
the
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
One
Piece Butterfly Waist
Waist with Raglan Sleeve
133
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
134
Measurement
1-1
Around
for Skirts
the waist.
2-2 Around the hips about 6 inches below the waist
3-4 Front length 1-5 Side length
6-7 Back length
till
till
till
the floor.
the
the
floor.
floor.
line.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Measurement
for Skirts
135
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
136
Systematic Outline for Skirts
Measurement Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches, inches. Back length 44 inches.
Front length 43
A. Square both ways from
A
B
from
C
from B
A
.,
as represented.
the the half waist
is
'
measure plus
a line from
A
through
C and
is
6 inches.
E from D
is
the half Hips measure on line
this case 21
F
is
located
G
from F
H
from
I
1
'4
line
G
parallel with line
A-C,
in
inches.
the front length, in this case 42 inches.
is
is
D
squared out from E.
from the center of line
J from
drawn from
mches.
by a
is
A
6 inches.
longer.
A
from
1
4 inches on line squared out from B.
is
Draw
D
3 inches, in this case
A-G
is
the side length, in this case 43
the back length on line
drawn from
G
'
_,
inches.
through E.
Finish the bottom as represented.
NOTICE
:
NOT
In
all
Drafts
allowed.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; designed
in this Systematic Outline
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; are seams
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Systematic Outline for Skirts
137
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
138
Two Gore
Skirt
High Waisted
First lay
as follows
all
points as
2 from
H
the center of H-J less
is
Systematic
Outline
for
then
continue
of line
A-G, and
Skirts,
A
is
2-2 inches.
6 from
G
is
21 '2 inches.
Connect points 7-8
is
'
2
inches.
2 through
divided by point
is
the center of 1-7.
5-4-6.
the center of
I
of
two equal
parts.
1-8.
1 1 is
located by a line squared out from
12
located by a line squared out from 10.
is
I
the difference between the actual half waist measure
is
is
1
2 inches.
is
I
drawn from
5 from
10
in
:
located by a line
is
4 from
9
described
the center of A-G.
1 is
3
up
13 from
3
is
1
inch.
Finish the skirt as represented.
9.
and the measure
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Two Gore
Skirt
High Waisted
139
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
140
Three or Four Gore Skirt High Waisted
The (See page
I
The
draft for a tfiree or four gore skirt
is
the
same as
for a
two gore
skirt.
38.)
difference
For a two gore
is
in placing the
skirt
seams.
allow seams only on the sides, and no seam at the front
and back. For a three gore
For a four gore
skirt
skirt
no seam on the
seams on the
front.
Seams
front, sides
at the sides
and back.
and back only.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Three or Four Gore Skirt High Waisted
141
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
142
Four Gore (Panel) Skirt First lay
up
points to
all
as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then
measure
continue as follows:
from
A
2 from 3 from
G H
4 from
J
1
is
3 inches.
is
3 inches. 5 inches.
is is
5 inches.
5
is
the centre of 1-2.
6
is
the centre of D-E.
Draw
lines
between 1-3,5-6 and 2-4 as represented.
Measure the waist actual waist
measure
is
For instance from inches; the surplus
is
line
to
from
A
A
to
G
G
to
be taken out
and the
difference between this
measure and the
in darts at points 1-5-2 as represented.
measures 18 inches; the
5 inches. This amount
is
to
half
be taken out
actual waist in darts.
At
measure
is
13
the front (point 1)
take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2
and
two inches, and
at point
half inches as represented.
NOTICE: No seams Allow
for all
seams.
or turning-in
is
allowed for
in this
Systematical Outline.
5 two
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Four Gore (Panel) Skirt
143
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
144
Five Gore Skirt
First lay
up
all
points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows 1
from
2
is
A
3 inches.
is
the center
3 from
H
4 from
J is
is
between
1
5} 2 inches.
and G.
(Twice as
-A
1
less
and
is
the center between 3
6
is
located by drawing a line from 2 to
to
inch.)
3 inches.
5
The
^j,
difference
be taken out
4.
between the actual
in darts as follows
For instance
5
Take out
inch
\_i
inches at
is
half waist
I
is
2^4 inches.
8 from
2
is
2/4 inches.
9 from
7 is
'4
on
line
of line
A-G
is
point
2
out.
equal divided on both sides, and
equal divided on both sides.
7 from 2
measure and the measure
:
be taken
to
point
5.
squared up from
7.
10 from 8
is
'4
inch on line squared out from
11 from 6
is
'4
inch.
Finish the draft as represented.
8.
4'j
inches
at
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Five Gore Skirt
145
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
146
Gore
Six
First lay
up
BHI Skirt
points to measure as described in Systematic
all
Skirts,
then
half
actual
2 inches
equal
Outline for
continue as follows
from
A
is
3 inches.
3 from
G
is
the
1
2
is
same
as
1
the center between
4 from
H
5 from
J is
6 from 4
is
twice as
the
is
same
I
and
much as 4
3.
as
1
from
A
less '^ inch, in this case 5'
I
o
At the
is
to
1-4, 2-6, 3-5.
be taken out
in darts at
front take out the least
For istance
5
Take out
point
at
inches 1
inches.
inches.
difference betvi^een the measure of the waist line from
waist measure
2
from H.
the center between 4 and 5 less
Draw^ lines between
The
from A.
is
and
at
points 1,2,
A
to
G
and the
3.
the side take out the most dart.
the difference. '
_>
inch, at
divided on both sides. Finish the draft as represented.
point 2
2
'
^
inches, at point 3
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Six Gore Skirt
147
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
148
Seven Gore Skirt
First lay
up
points to
all
measure as described
in
Systematical Outline for Skirts, then
continue as follows: 1
from
2 from 3
is
A 1
3 inches.
is is
one-third of the line from 1 to G.
the centre between 2 and G.
4 from
H
5 inches.
is
5 from 4
is
6 from 5
is
1 inch less 1
Draw
then one-third of 4-5.
inch less than the half-way between 5 and
lines
Measure the waist actual waist
J.
between l-4,2-5and 3-6 as represented.
measure
is
For instance from inches; the surplus
is
line
to
from
A
A
to
G
G
to
be taken out
and the
difference between this
in darts at points
measure and the
1-2-3 as represented.
measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure
5 inches. This amount
is
to
be taken out
in darts.
At the
is
13
front (point 1)
take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches,
and
and
at point
half inches as represented.
NOTICE: No seams Allow
for all
seams.
or turning-in
is
allowed for
in this
Systematical Outline.
5
two
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Seven Gore Skirt
149
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
150
9 Gore Flare Skirt
up
First lay 1
A
from
2'
is
points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows
all
inches.
j
2-3-4 are located by dividing the waist line from
5 from
H
6 from
J is
twice as
is
about 2'
2
much
as
from
I
A
less
J^o
1
between
lines
Measure the waist actual half waist
G of
four parts.
inches.
7-8-9 are located by dividing the bottom line from
Draw
to
inch, in this case 4^4 inches.
1-5, 2-7,
from
line
A
to
G
6 of four parts.
and the difference between
measure
is
to
be taken out
A
to
G
is
For instance from
5 to
3-8 4-9.
18 inches
;
this
measure and the
in darts at points 1,2, 3, 4.
the actual half waist measure
is
I
3
inches,
is
surplus 5 inches.
This
inches
5
is
to
be taken out
in darts
the most. In this case take out at point 1^4 inches, at point 4
For making the taste,
;
at the front take
'4 inch, at
flares place points 10, 11,12,
and allow fulness
out the least and at the side
point 2
I
'4
inches, at point 3
inches equal divided on both sides.
'4
I
1
at the
1
3 as
high desired accorcingly style or
bottom towards the back always more and
the front.
For instance
:
14 from
5 is
15 from
5 is
I
inch.
16 from
7 is
1
inch.
7 from
7 is
1
'
1
inch.
2
/^ inches.
18 from 8
is
19 from 8
is
2 inches.
20 from 9
is
2 inches.
21 from 9
is
2*2 inches.
if
1
2
1
inches.
you wish
22 from
G
23 from
J
is is
Make
1
flaring at the
back and a
slit,
proceed as follows
:
3 inches.
in this case 3 inches.
the
slit
about
1
'
2
inches wide and finish the draft as represented.
less
towards
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
9 Gore Flare
Skirt
15!
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
152
1 1
First lay
up
all
Gore Flounce
points as
Skirt
Systematic Outline
described in
for
Skirts,
then
continue as follows 1
from
A
is
2 inches.
2, 3, 4,
5 are located by dividing the waist
6 from
H
7 from
J is 2}-i
8, 9, 10,
is
line
from
I
to
G
of five parts.
3*2 inches.
inches.
11 are located by dividing the bottom from 6 to 7 of
Draw
lines
between
Measure up the
1-6, 2-8,
v^^aist line
3-9 4-10, 5-11.
from
A
to
measure and the half actual waist measure 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,
18
Cut out the flounce
Allow fulness
are located
G is
and the
to
be taken out
one
between
this
in darts as represented.
of the flounce.
piece.
bottom of the flounce towards the back always more as
represented by the shaded hues and cut out the represented by double
difference
by marking the hight
(18-! 2-H-J-18) in
at the
five parts.
lines.
new
flounce from
one piece as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
11
Gore Flounce
Skirt
153
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
54
13 Gore Plaited Skirt
up
First lay
continue as follows
A
is
2, 3, 4, 5,
6
1
from
7 from
H
8 from
J is
I
J
V
i
then
or less accordingly style or taste.
by dividing the waist
much
as
line
is
I
from
1
to
G
of six equal parts.
from A.
inches. six equal parts.
13 are located by dividing the bottom of
9, 10, 11, 12,
Connect points
The
more
are located
3 inches, or twice as
is
Skirts,
for
:
inches,
.,
Systematic Outline
points as described in
all
difference
waist line from
E
1-7, 2-9, 3-10, 4-1
1
between the actual
to
G
is
to
,
5-1 2, 6-1 3 for
half waist
be taken out
in darts
the side seams.
measure and the measure of the divided at points
1
2, 3, 4, 5,
,
6
as represented.
By applying an 14 from
G
15 from
J is
inverted plait in the back proceed as follows;
3 inches.
is
6 inches.
Fold your paper at line G-J
till
line 14-15
the plait should not be short at the waist
Allow at the top
plaits at '
1
-
and
trace over the waist
inches,
and
that
line.
each side of the gores as deep at the bottom 2
Finish the skirt as represented.
line,
'
,
plaits
desired.
inches on each side.
For instance
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
13 Gore Plaited Skirt
155
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
156
Circular Skirt
A. Draw a
straight-line as
the half waist measure.
from B
is
6 inches.
D
from
A
is
E from D
is
G
is is
2 inches.
inch on line square
1
D.
pivoting at E, and
line
sweeped from
B,
located
by a
line
sweeped from
C, pivoting at E,
^
2
is
the front length.
is
the back length.
3
the side length,
is
and
is
from
1
about 2 inches
Circular Skirt with
First draft a Circular Skirt as is
is
from
B the
from
C
the
half
Waist measure.
half
Hip
measure
the center of B-F.
4 from
5
is
and
inch.
from B
is
down from
by a
2 from F 3
I
located
plus 1
to
is
from
F
A
from
A
B C
located by drawing a
6 from
5 is
I
line
from
less
One Dart
3 to 4.
inch.
is
the half of fulness to be taken out.
8 from 4
is
the
same
as 7 from
4.
Cut out the fulness between 8-6-7, and join together dart at the waist line as represented
:
1-2.
described above, then continue on the same draft as follows:
7 from 4
NOTICE
than from the middle of
On
this draft
by points
are seams
lines 6-7 with 6-8 to
3-6-3.
NOT
allowed.
produce
tlie
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Circular Skirt
Circular Skirt with
One Dart
157
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
58
Circular Skirt in Gores
First
draw
Allow bottom width line
down
a plain skirt in gores as
at the
bottom
to
each gore
of the Systematical Outline
to the
less
gores desired.
fulness is,
as
and draw
much more
desired than the
straight lines
from
the
hip
bottom as represented.
That the fulness should back and
many
towards the
front.
fall
nicely, allow
always more fulness towards the
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Circular Skirt in Gores
159
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
160
Princess Skirt
This draft represents a seven gore princess
up
First lay
follows 1
from
all
skirt.
points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue
as
:
A
inches.
is 3
2 and 3 are located by dividing the waist
4 from
H
5 from
J is
twice as
is
2'
much
as
1
from
A
from
line
less
'
^
1
to
8-9-10 are located by drawing lines from
1
to 5 of three
to 4, 2 to 6, 3 to
11-12-13-14-15-16 are located by taking out darts
at points
pages.
17-18-19-20 are the center
A
22 from
2
23 from
G
of each gore at the hip line.
the girdle as high desired.
For instance
21 from
is is is
:
3 inches.
2
of three equal parts.
inches.
J
6 and 7 are located by dividing the bottom from 4
Make
G
inch.
'
2
inches.
3'j inches.
24
is
located
by drawing a
25
is
located
by drawing
26
is
located by drawing a line from 18 through
line
a line
from 18 through from
I
7
through
12. I
I
I
3.
27
is
located by drawing a line from 19 through 14.
28
is
located
by drawing
29
is
located
by drawing a
a line line
from 19 through from 20 through
Finish the draft as represented.
15. 1
6.
equal parts.
7.
1,2
3,
as described
on previous
JHE AMERICAN
DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Princess Skirt
]6I
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
162
Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width
First lay
up
all
points to measure as described in Systemati; Outline for Skirts (page
then continue as follows 1
from
2
is
H
4
is
2
is
by drawing a the
5 from is
3 is
7 from 6 is
same
a line
line
from
as 2 from
G
1
on
through E. line
drawn from
1
through E.
is
from 4 through
3.
6 inches.
the center
Draw
8
:
the center between A-G.
Draw
6
36),
the fixed bottom width.
is
located
3 from
1
between D-E.
a line
the
from 6 through
same
as
E from
5.
6 on line
located by drawing a line from
1
Measure the back length from 8
drawn from 6 through
through to
I
and
5.
7.
finish the waist
and bottom
This Systematic outline can be used to produce Circular Skirts too.
lines as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
163
Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width
:
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
164
Skirt for Stout
Measurement
Measures Front length 40 inches. Side length 39 inches.
Waist 40 inches. Hips 50 inches.
Back length 38 inches.
To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, C from B is 2 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C.
D
from
A
E from D
is
is
in this case
23 inches.
6 inches. the half hip measure, in this case 25 inches on line
drawn from
D
parallel
with
this
case
hne A-C.
F
is
located by a line sqared out from E.
G H
from F is I4 inches. from A is the front length measure, in this case 40 inches. side length, in this case 39 inches. 1 from the middle of line A-G is the from G the back length, J is located by drawing a Hne from G through E and is I
in
38 inches.
This diagram represents for instant a
five
gore stout
skirt.
1 from A is and G. 2 is the center between 3 from H is twice as much as from A less 2 inch, in this case 7' j inches. 4 is the center between 3 and J. Draw lines from to 3 and from 2 to 4. The difference between the measure of the waist line from A to G and the and I as represented. waist measure is to be taken out in Darts at points Note that the front dart by stout skirts is larger then by normal skirts. To make wider the bottom, allow fulness at points 3 and 4. Bear in mind that fulness is to be allowed towards the back always more.
the width desired for the front panel, in this case 4 inches. I
'
1
1
half
actual
1
5 6 7 8
For instance from 3 is j inches. from 3 is /4 inches. from 4 is 234 inches. from 4 is 2/2 inches. Draw lines from the hip 1
'
1
line to points 5, 6,
7,
8 and finish the draft as represented.
THEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Skirt for Stout
Measurement
165
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
166
Princess Slip
First cut out a tight-fitting
or a semi-fitting garment
till
the hip line, then
mark each gore
seperate on a piece of paper as represented.
This
A-B,
CD,
a tight-fitting french
is
E-F,
G H,
IJ
is
K-L, M-N, O-P, Q-R, S-T
To
C
is
2 from
D
is
3 from E
is
'
4 from F
is
'4 inch.
G is
5 from
Draw from S,
3
from
'
2
'
2
j
I
is
the hip
line.
down proceed
as follows
:
inch. inch. inch.
inch.
lines
from
A
through K, from B through L, from
through O, from 4 through P, from J
slip.
the waist line.
continue the lines from the hip line
from
1
seam princess
through T.
Finish the length as desired.
3
I
through Q, from
through M, from 2 through N,
H
through R. from
1
through
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Princess Slip
167
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
168
This System It
is
taught by the author only.
has been copyrighted, and any infringement
contested.
will
be
legally
PART TWO
MISSES'
GARMENTS
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
!70
The System Garments;
it is
for Misses'
Garments
is
the
same
as for
only constructed, by special measurement.
Womans'
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Table of Proportionate Measurements For Misses* Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
171
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
172
Systematical Outline For Misses' Garments
Measurement Waist 24 inches. Hips 39 inches.
Scye depth 7 inches.
Back waist-length
5 inches.
1
Sleeve I7'> inches.
Bust 37 inches.
To Draft A. Draw a
B
from
A
straight line as
A
from
Square out from
to D.
the Scye depth measure, in this
is
N
from
A
the Back
is
in this case
Dfrom C B
A
P
D
and from
C
from
for the Bust line,
G H I
the
for
the
is
case 22'
in this
j
R
E.
is
the half-way between
E and
F.
is
the half-way between B and is
5
'
2
U
K from A to
H,
E, F,
G
and
1
is
is
locatated
M from H
is
K
as represented.
by drawing a
line
from
A
to
J.
and N.
by drawing a
located
G
from
line
A
3*4 inches.
is
from S
is
G
from
R
1
Cut
'4
inches less than the
distance
inch more than
distance
to R. is
s
O
on
line
the point
off
from S
is
the
drawn from at
R
of
R 's
through inch
as
2 inches. Connect U-V.
is
2 inches.
Square out
X
inches.
M
"4 inch.
is
from
B
from
'4i
2 inches.
1
W from R
the half of the distance
in this case 2
drawn from L
inch on line
o
represented.
repre-
as
2'4 inches.
Square out from
L
is
T.
V is
'
from L to
F.]
sented. 1
6's inches.
in this case is
Square out from S as represented.
inches always.
Square out from
as represented.
through Q.
T
inches.
B and
A
N
M
inch less than the Scye depth
's
the half-way between
waist
measure and 4
Bust
half
the half-way between
J from
is
Q from
repre-
as
for the hip line
is
from
from
S from
from B
inches more,
F
O
from
for the top line,
sented.
E
is
through N.
6 inches always.
is
Square out from
line
measure,
waist-length
5 inches.
1
M
measure,
case 7 inches.
C
from
from
W
from
A
Y
is
Z
is
is
'4
froin
inch
W as represented. more than
to K, in this case
located
by
the
distance
3'x inches.
a line squared out
from
E.
located by a line squared out from F.
Notice In all
of
%
Diagrams
designed in this Systematical Outline
arc seasn-aliowance-s
inch allowed.
is the half Waist measdesigned in this Systen'aticai Outline !n all Diagrams ure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 1 74.) is the half Hips measdesigned in this Systematical Outline In all Diagrams inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on page 1 74.) ure !
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
173
Systematic Outline For Misses' Garments
'#
Y
^h
^1
%
:
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
174
Tight Fitting French
Seam
For Misses' Garments First lay
up
all
points
your measure
to
described in Systematical Outline, then continue as folllows as
from
1
2 from
Z Y
is is
'
5 is
length as 26 from 6 1
'x
O
inch, and P. inch.
2'4 inches.
and from Draw lines from C to through 2 for the fashionable waist line as I
I
represented.
is
I
is 's inch for seam. Finish the back and side gores represented. 28 from 14 is '4 inch, and fr 13 the length as 4 from 3. 29 from 15 is ^ inches. 30 from 2 is '4 inches. 31 IS located by drawing a ine from 1
3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is '4 inches. 5 from O is '4 inch. 6 from P is '4 inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. 7 is the half-way betw^een 5 and L, or make the width to style or taste. 8 from 3 is inch less than A to K. 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 as I
1
represented. inch 10 from 4 1 1 from 8 4 inch.
more than
I
through 30. 32 from 31 is 's inch. 33 from G is 3 '4 inches. 34 from 33 is 2 inches on 33 parallel with line 1-2.
35
from
line
13
1
1
I
34.
through 14. 3. is the half-way between 9 and and 14. is half-way between is located by drawing a line from 16 through 7. 19 from 7 is Vj inch. 20 from 7 is 'a inch. 21 from 8 is inch. 22 from 8 is inch. 23 from 13 is '2 inch. inch higher 24 from 7 is '.'x inch, and from the line L-5.
16 17 18
I
1
I
located by drawing a line from 36 with line E-31. from 39 is 4 '4 inches. from R is the same width as L to 7.
par-
is
allel
40 41
Draw a 42 from 41 Draw a
line is
from 41
to 34.
inch for seams.
'4
line
from 42
with
parallel
line
41-34.
1
I
frc
located by drawling a line from 34 parwith line E-30. from 35 is /4 inches. from 35 is 2;'4 inches. from 34 is the same length as 36 from
39
'
1
line
is
36 37 38
3 to 8.
I
1
I
'
1
allel
inch. 12 from 10 13 from F 4 inch. _ 14 _ _ from 4 inch. 15 is located by drawing a
1
6 the
fr
from
27 from 26
inch.
^
25 from
43 from
1
4
is
the
same length
as
29 from
is
1'4 inches. the same length
as
44 from
28.
44 from 40 45 from 36
is
38.
i
Finish the front as represented.
Waist Suppression Waist measure by 37 Bust figure the half waist as follows: Half Bust 17' ^
By applying
this
System the
half
is
7 inches less than the half
less 7 is
II
Bust measure. For instance
'^ the half waist.
Now
change the
draft a
follows
Systematic half Waist measure
Actual half Waist measure
is
is
!
' I
.)
inches.
12 inches.
hlips
by
Bust measure; in
this
There is missing y:-, inch in Waist. This inch is to be added to the waist and and 40. Point 37 from 35 will be only 2 '4 inches, and point 40 from 39 is '.'4 inches. ^
.',
the
also to
the dart at points 37
Hip Development By applying
this
System the
case the Systematic Hip measure
is
therefore the half Hip measure
is
is
half
Hip measure
is
'
.1
inch
more than
the half
19 inches. By correcting the Waist measure the
now
H j^
inches,
and as the actual
half hip
half hlip
measure
is
measure gained also
IS:
'
-,
],<^inc'i-i,
inches, there
nothing else to change at the Hip. If
the actual half Hip measure would be for instance
points 43, 29, 21,
22 equal divided and vica
verse.
20
inches, a half inch ought to be
added
at
the
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight Fitting French For Misses' Garments
Seam
175
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
76
Semi-Fitting with dart in Front For Misses' Sizes
First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' Garments, then continue as follows 1 from Z is 1-2 inch. 2 from Y is 2/i inches. through 2 for the fashionable waist line as and from Draw lines from C to :
1
I
represented.
3 from
C
4 from
3 is /4 inch.
is
5 from D 6 from P 7 from
is is
H
8 from 4 9 from 3
/o inches.
I
inch.
i
inch.
'^4
inch.
is j'4 is
inch
I
inch
'4
is
more than the distance from A to K. more than the distance from 4 to 8
Finish the back as represented.
10 from 8
is
/o inch.
from 9 12 from 6 13 from F 14 from
is
1
1 1
1
/o inches.
34 inch.
is is
'4
inch.
is
'4
inch.
15 is located bo drawing 16 from 14 is '2 inch.
a line
from
1
3
through
14.
Finish the side gore as represented. 1
7 from
18 from 19 from
is
1
1
2
is
Draw 20 from
G
and
is
from F the same length as
1
6 from
inch.
1
2 inches.
from
line
is
1
'
E
through
9.
inches.
is 3,'4
21 from 20
22 23 24 25 26 27 28
inch,
!'2
5 is
j
inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19
is
located by drawing a line from 2
is
located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19.
from frcm from from from
22 24
is
Vo inch.
is
3 inches.
21
is
the
23 27
is j'^
same length
1
parallel with line E- 9. 1
as 24 from 21.
inch.
is 3/4 inches. Finish the front as represented.
29 from 16 30 from 28
is
31 from 24
is
is
the I
same length
as 18 from
I
7.
'4 inches.
the
same length
as 30 from 26.
Finish the bottom as represented.
I
3.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting with dart in Front For Misses' Sizes
177
:
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
78
Sac Coat with Loose Front For Misses' Sizes
up
First lay
all
points to your
meaure as described
in
Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows
from
1
Z
is
'
inch.
2
2 from Y is 2^4 inches. Draw lines from C 3 from C is /'o inches.
to
I
and from
1
to 2 for the fashionable waist line
as
represented.
I
4 from 5 6 7 8 9 10
3 is
^
inch.
inch. from D is is '4 inch. from from 6 is ,'4 inch. from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. is located by drawing a curved line from from 5 is '4 inch more than 8 from 4. 1
M
7 to
8 as represented.
Finish the back as represented.
11 from 8 is 3^2 inch. 12 from 10 is ^4 inches. I
from F is y> inch. is from 2 inch. from 14 is 2' 2 inches and is located by drawing a from 4 is 's inch. inch. 4 is 1 7 from 18 from 2 is '2 inch. 19 from A is the length of garment desired. 20 is located on line squared out from 19. 21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. is the same length as 20 from 8. 22 from
13 14 15 16
'
1
line
from 13 through
14,
I
%
1
I
1
23 from R is inch. 24 is located by a line squared down from S and 25 from 24 is /^ inch. 26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through !
is
below the fashionable waist
2 '2 inches
and
is
the
from 26 through 25 and
is
the
I
5
line.
half of the pocket size, in this
case 3 inches.
27
is
located
6 inches. 28 from S is
by drawing a
line
full
size,
in
this
inch.
1
29 from G is 2 inch. 30 is located by drawing '
a line from 28 through 29,
Finish the draft as represented.
and
is in this
case 5 inches long.
case
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sac Coat with Loose Front Fcr Misses' Sizes
179
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
180
Loose Box Coat For Misses' Sizes
up
First lay
points as desca-ibed in Systematica] Outline for Misses' sizes, then continue
all
as follows
from
1
2 from
Z Y
is
inches.
is 2':^
Draw 3
'2 inch.
is
from
lines
4 from
3
is
's
inch.
5 from
3 is
's;
inch.
inch
6 from
is
'.^
7 from 6
is
I
8 from C
is
A
is
10 from L
is
9 from
1
from
R
12 from
2
1 1
13 from
14
is
16 from 4 17
is
I
more than
F.
nch.
' I
nch.
'
_;
a line from
E through
12.
the length of garment desired.
by a
line
squared out frorh
19 from
I
the
1
7 is I
is
Allow
1
3.
'o inch.
is
is
from
5
same length
as
I
5
from
located by a line squeired out from
18 from
through 2 as represented.
I
nch.
'4
is
14
and from
nch.
'
located
15 from
1
nch.
'4
is
A
to
inches.
'_|
is
Draw
C
way between F and M.
the half
1
I
for
'
4
5.
1
3.
inches.
inch.
buiton stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted.
Finish the draft as represented. If
center.
you wish
to
have the back center without any seam, take
off
's
inch
at
the
back
JTH E
AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Loose Box Coat For Misses' Sizes
181
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
82
Blouse For Misses' Sizes
First lay
up
all
for Misses' Sizes,
points to your
then continue as follows
from
Z
is
,'2
2 from
Y
is
2*4 inches.
1
Draw
measure as described
in
Systematic
Outline
:
inch.
lines
from
C
to
I
and from
I
to 2 for the fashionable waist line
as
represented.
3 from
4
is
C
is
2 inches.
the half-way between
5 from 4
is
6 from
is
1
'4
F and M.
inch.
4 inches.
Finish the back as represented
7 from 4
8
is
is
located
2
from E.
'4
inch.
by drawing a
line
from
X
Finish the front as represented.
through E, and
is
from
E
the
same length as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Blouse For Misses' Sizes
183
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
184
Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments Measurement
for size 16
Bust 37 inches. Sleeve length (inside seam) l?'^ inches. 1
Draw
2 from
a straight line as is
I
Square a
3 from
4 5 6 7
8
is
I
from
1
to 2.
the sleeve length measure. line
up from
a quarter of the
2. full
bust measure on line squared
is
located by a line squared out from 3 as represented.
is
the center of
is
located by a line squared
is
the center of 2-4.
is
the center of
up from
I
plus
I
inch.
1-2.
up from
5.
i-3.
Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from is 2 inches. 1 1 from through Draw lines between 11-10 and from I
1
I
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
20
is
the center of 10-11.
is
the center of 3-10.
3.
from 12 is U inch. from 3 is I'i inches. from 3 is 2 inch. from 3 is J inch. from 6 is 2 inches. from 5 is 3 inches. from 7 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 1
'
'
21 from 20 is 22 from 20 is 23 from 4 is
'
I
inch.
I
inch.
J
24 from 21 is Draw all '
inch. J
inch.
construction lines as represented.
Sleeve for Misses' Garments
up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1 I. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. First lay
I
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments
23^;
22
185
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
186
Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts
Measurement Waist 24 inches, Hips 39 inches, Front length 40 inches, Side length 41/2 inches. Back length 42 inches.
A. Square both ways from
A
B
from
C
from B
A
as represented.
the half waist measure plus 3 inches,, in this case
is
4 inches on line squared out from
is
Draw
a line
from
A
through
C and
A
is
6 inches.
E from D
is
the half Hips measure on line
D
from
19'
F
is
located
from F
H
from
is
A
is
by a 1
'4
line
B.
longer.
drawn from
D
parallel with line A-C. in
this
case
G
is
sqared out from E.
inches.
the front length, in this case 40 inches.
from the center of
J from
inches.
inches.
2
G
I
5
1
line
A-G
is
the side length, in this case 41
the back length on line
drawn from
G
through E,
'
j
inches..
in this
case 42 inches.
Finish the bottom as represented.
NOTICE
:
In all Drafts
NOT
allowed.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
designed in
this
Systematic Outline
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
are seams
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts
187
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Seven Gore Skirt For Misses' Sizes
First lay
up
all
points as described in Systematic
then continue as follows 1
from
2 from 3
is
A 1
5 from 4
6 from
5
is
'
is
1
5 is
1
Draw
2
(
to
G.
and G.
inches.
inch less then one-third of 4-5. inch less than the half-way between 5 and lines
between
Measure the waist
and the
:
one-third of the line from
is
H
skirts,
3 inches.
is
the center between 2
4 from
Outline for Misses'
I
-4,
line
half actual waist
2-5
from
measure
J.
and 3-6 as represented.
A is
to
to
G
and the difference bet^^een
be taken out
in darts
at
this
points
measure 1-2-3
as
represented.
At the
the front (point
most
NOTICE
:
I)
take out the least and at the side
dart.
No seams
Allow for
all
or turning are allowed.
seams.
(point
5)
take out
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Seven Gore Skirt For Misses' Sizes
l«9
190
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Collars for Misses' for
Womens' Garments.
Garments are constructed the same way as
PART THREE
JUNIORS'
GARMENTS
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
192
The System Garments;
it
is
for Juniors
Garments'
is
the
same
as for
only constructed by special measurement.
Womans'
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Table of Proportionate Measurements For Juniors' Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
193
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
194
Semi-Fitting French
Seam
For Juniors' Sizes
up
First lay
all
points to your measure as
described in Systematic Outline (page
then continue as follows 1 from 2 from
1
72),
lines
through 2
from
C
to
1
and from
for the fashionable w^aist line
1
as
3 from C is /i> inches. 4 from 3 is J4 inch. 5 frorr, D is inch. 6 from O is /4 inch. 7 from P is '4 inch. 1
Draw
a line from 6 to
7.
4,
or
make
9 from 4 is inch more than the distance from A to K. 10 from 5 is '4 inch more than the distance I
to 9.
by drawing
located
a line
from 8
to
9
as represented.
Finish the back as represented.
12 13 14 15 16
from 9 from from F from 1
I
is
is /-o
is
is
located
P.
drawn from
a
line
from ^6
by draw^ing a
line
from 26
as
29 from
draw^ing
26.
33 from 30 is 3''4 inches. 34 from R is the same width as L to 8. Draw a line from from 34 to 26. 35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams. Draw a line from 35 parallel with
?4 inch.
17.
by drawing a
% %
line
through 27. 29 from 27 is '^ inch. 30 from 28 is 's inch. 31 from 29 is 3 inches. 32 from 26 is the same length
is
/^ inches.
1
by
located
36 from 37 from
located
from
line
34-26.
inch.
through 15, 17 from 5 is 34 inch. 18 from 8 is inch. 19 from b is inch.
O
as
1
I
/4 inch.
I
same length
'
1
1
is
is
34 inch.
is
from is 2 inch. from 6 is inch. from 2 is 2 inches. from G is 334 inches. from 25 is 34 inches on 25 parallel with line 1-2.
28
the width to style or taste.
1 1 is
8
parallel with line E-24.
the half-way between 7 and
from 4
22 23 24 25 26
27
I
is
7 is the
Finish the side gore as represented.
represented.
8
1
21 from
:
Z is 34 inch. Y is 2^ inches.
Draw
20 from
line
from
14
6 22 1
is
34 inch.
is
the
38 fron 33 is 39 from 29 is
I
'4
the
same length
as
36 from
as
38 from
inches.
same length
32.
Finish the sented.
front
and bottom as repre-
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting French For Juniors' Sizes
Seam
195
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
196
Loose Box Coat For Juniors' Sizes
up
First lay
points as described in Systematic Outline
all
(page
I
72),
then continue as
follows:
from
1
2 from
Z Y
is
'
Draw 3
is
inch.
j
2 Jo inches.
is
from
lines
4 from
3
is
5 from
3
is
6 from
1
is
U
inch
is
%
A
is
"4 inch.
10 from L
is
9 from
I
J
through
2 as represented.
is
%
12 from
2
is
'2 inch.
13 from
A
F.
inch.
a line from
Draw
from
5
4 inch.
R
E
through
12.
the length of garment desired.
is
located by a line sqared out from
15 from
14
16 from 4 is
I
inch.
from
17
and from
more than
is
is
I
'4 inches.
7 from 6
14
to
% inch. % inch.
8 from C
1 1
C
the half-way between F and M.
is
the
located
by
18 from
1
19 from
1!
7 is is
Allow
I
3,
V2 inch.
is
1
1
5
from
5.
a line squared out
from
13.
same length
j/4
as
1
inches.
inch.
for button stand 2 to 3 inches for single breasted,
and
3
to
4 inches for
double
breasted.
Finish the draft as represented. If
center.
you wish
to
have the back center without any seam, take
off
'1^
inch
at
the
back
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Loose Box Coat For Juniors' Sizes
197
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
198
Blouse For Juniors' Sizes
First lay
up
all
for Misses' Sizes,
from
Z
is
2 from
Y
is
1
'
j
then continue as follows
in
Systematic Outline
:
inch.
lU
Draw
measure as described
points to your
inches.
lines
from
C
to
1
and from
I
to 2 for
the
fashionable waist
line
as
represented.
3 from
4
is
C
is
2 inches.
the half-way between
5 from 4
is
'4
6 from
is
4 inches.
I
F and M.
inch.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 4
8
is
is
located
'4
inch.
by drawing a
line
from
X
2 from E.
Finish the front as represented.
through E, and
is
from
E
the
same length as
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Blouse For Juniors' Sizes
199
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
200
Sleeve Construction for Juniors' Garments Measurement
for Size
15
Bust 35 inches.
Sleeve length (inside seam)
1
Draw
2 from
a straight line as from 1
is
frorr,
4
is
5 6 7 8
1
is
located
7 inches.
to 2.
the sleeve length measure.
Square a
3
1
I
line
up from
by a
line
2.
bust measure on line squared up from squared out from 3 as represented.
a quarter of the
full
is
the center of
is
located by a line squared
is
the center of 2-4.
is
the center of
1
I
plus
1
inch.
2.
up from
5.
1-3.
Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from is 2 inches. 1 1 from Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 12 is the center of 10-11. 13 is the center of 3-10. 14 from 12 is /4 inch. 15 from 3 is inch. 16 from 3 is /4 inch. 1 7 from 3 is /4 inch. 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 20 from 7 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 21 from 20 is inch. 22 from 20 is inch. 23 from 4 is /^ inch. 24 from 21 is 2 inch. 1
I
I
3,
1
1
1
'
Draw
all
contruction lines as represented.
Sleeve for Juniors' Garments
First lay up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-1 1. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9-
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sleeve Construction for Juniors^ Garments
Sleeve for Juniors' Garments
23f*J
201
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
202
Juniors' Five
Gore Skirt
Measurement Waist 24/^ inches. Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. Side length 37 inches. Back length 37 inches.
A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 15'4 inches. C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer. D from A is 6 inches. E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C,
F
G from F H from A I
in
this
case
18/2 inches. is located by a line squared out from E. is
1
is
H
inches.
the front length, in this case 36 inches.
from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 37 inches. G is the back length on line drawn from G through E, in this ceise 37 inches. Finish the bottom as represented.
J from
1 from A is 3 inches. and G. 2 is the center between 3 from H is 3' 2 inches. (Twice as 1-A less 4 from J is 3 inches. 5 is the center between 3 and 4. 6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 5. 1
The to
'2 inch.)
difference betw^een the actual half waist measure
and the measure of
line
A-G
is
at
point
2
be taken out in darts as follows For instance A-G is 7 inches. The half actual w^aist measure is 12*4 inches. :
I
Surplus
is
Take out
4 '2
,'4
inches.
inch at point
1
equal divided on both sides, and
equal divided on both sides.
7 from 2 2
8 from
is
2Js inches.
is 2! s
inches.
9 from 7 10 from 8
is
','4
is
J4 inch
from 6
is
"4 inch.
1 1
inch on line squared up from
7.
squared up from
8.
on
line
Finish the draft as represented.
4*4
inches
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Juniors' Five
Gore
Skirt
203
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
204
Juniors* Circular Skirt
Measurement 2 inches, Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. Side length 37 inches, Back length 37 inches.
Waist 24'
A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer.
D E
from from 1
F
8'
is
2
A D
is is
in this case
1
5 '4 inches.
6 inches. the half Hips measure on line
drawn from
D
parallel with line
A-C.
in
this
case
inches.
located by a line squared out from E.
G H
from F is H inches. from A is the front length, in this case 36 inches. I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this ens? 37 inches. J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through h., in this case 37 inches. Finish the bottom as represented. 1
1 from H is the fixed bottom width. through E. 2 is located by drawing a line from 3 from 2 is the same as 2 from G on line drawn from 4 is the center between A-G. 1
Draw
a line from 4 through
1
through E.
3.
5 from 3 is 6 inches. 6 is the center between D-E. Draw a line from 6 through 5. 7 from 6 is the same as E from 6 on line drawn from 6 through 5. ^ 8 is located by draw^ing a line from through 7. Measure the back length from 8 to and finish the waist and bottom lines as represented. Measure up the waist line from A to 8, and the difference between this measure and the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in dart or darts as described on previous 1
1
pages.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Juniors' Circular Skirt
205
206
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Collars for Juniors' for
Womens' Garments.
Garments are constructed the same way as
PART FOUR
CHILDRENS'
GARMENTS
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
208
Measurement
Women,
for Children are
Misses and Juniors.
taken in the same
way
as for
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Table of Proportionate Measurements For Childrens' Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
209
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
210
Systematic Outline For Childrens' Sizes
Measurement Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Scye depth 3/4 inches, Back waist length 3 inches. Breast 29 inches.
1
To Draft A
A. Square both ways from B from is one third of the
A
ure, in this case
Cfr
B
D
C
from case
is
the Scye depth
D
is
from
M
Breast meas-
N
is
O
from
P
is
full
inches.
9'',s
5 '4 inches. (In lack of
measure
as represented.
C
mesure, the
/^ inch
is
the
case
in this
F From E
is
1
Q from H
the
back waist length measure.
C
C
from
I is
is
the
same
as
C from
1
is
the
same
as
D
from C,
in this
case
L
from D is one quarter part of line drawn from D to I, in this case 2 '4 inches. Draw a line from K to J. is the center betw^een C-H.
NOTICE:
at
U
V
In
all
is
'2
inch
the center
Draw
Diagrams
from from
Z
is
'^4
"4 inches
is
W
G
I
I
a line from
out from
Y
inches.
is is
T
on to
line
squared
V,
the
is
same
as
D-K on line squared
W. is
'
s inch.
located by drawing a line from
X through
Y.
designed in
this
out
2 inches.
Systematic Outline
Table of Aliquot Parts Measure
to P.
more than
point S as represented.
from H from U from U.
inch seams allowed.
Breast
O
I
W from S X
5/4 inches.
K
squared up from M,
line
inch.
inch, and is from S on line drawn J is from S through T 's inch longer than line K-D, this 'k inch is to be taken off in corner
A.
located by a line squared out from H.
J from
2
a tine from
T from
line as represented.
is
inches.
H
'
2 inches.
the half Breast measure plus 3'^s inches, in this case (i4!j plus 3',s) 18),s
from
is
between H-G, in this case 4' 2 inches. R is located by a line squared up from Q. S from R is "4 inch less than D-K, in this case
3 inches.
4 inches.
Hip
for the
inches.
'4
1
by a
the center betwen M-N.
Scye depth
Square out lines from C for the Breast line, from E for the waist line and from F
G
N
Draw
more than
is
located
this
in
center of A-C.)
E from D
from L
- are
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Systematic Outline For Childrens' Sizes
221
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
212
Childrens' Tight-Fitting
up
First lay
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 0),
all
1
then continue as follows: 1
from E
2 from F
1'2 inches.
is is
3 from
I
is
4 from
2
is
inches.
ÂŤ
^
I
"4 inch less than K. '4
inch
more than
from D. 3
from
1.
Finish the back as represented.
5 from
3
is
6 from 4
is
'2 inch. '
inch.
2
is
located
by a
line
squared
down from H.
8
is
lacated
by a
line
squared
down from H.
9
is
the center between H-L.
10
is
the center
1 1
is
located
7
between
by a
line
12 from 10
is
^4 inch.
13 from
I
is
^2 inch.
14 from
10
is
1
15 from
1
I
16 from 8
10.
4 inch.
is j/o
I
5-7.
drawn from 9 through
inch.
^s inch.
is
17 from P
is
2
inch.
18 from 9
is â&#x20AC;˘'4
inch.
'
Finish the side gores as represented.
19 from
21 from
2
inch.
''.s
inch.
7 is
20 from 8
is
Q
'
is
Q parallel Q through 2 Q through 2
2^2 inches on line draw^n from
22
is
located
by a
line
drawn from
23
is
located
by a
line
drawn from
24 from 23
is
's inch.
25 from 23
is
's inch.
Finish the front as represented.
I
I
with line X-Z.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens* Tight-Fitting
213
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
214
Childrens* Semi-Fitting
up
First lay
all
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 10),
then continue as follows 1
E
is
from F
is
from
3 from
I
4 from
2
:
1^2 inches,
1
inches.
s
3
inch more than
is '4
/4 inch
is
5 from L
is
'4
inch.
6 from P
is
'4
inch.
more than
K
from D.
3
from
1
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 3
is 1 2
inch.
8 from 4
is
'4
inch.
9 from 6
is
'2 inch.
10 from
H
inch.
'4
is
1 1 is
located
squared
down from
12
located by a line squared
down from
is
13 from
1
14 from
12
I
by a
is
is
's
line
inch.
inch.
I
Finish the side gore as represented.
15 from
16 from
11
is
2
is
1
'n
1
inch.
inch.
Finish the front as represented.
1
0.
10.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens' Semi-Fitting
215
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
216
Childrens'
First lay
up
all
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 210),
then continue as follows
from E
is
1
2 from F
is
1
1
3 from
4 from
M
is
1
5 from 2
6 from
inch.
inch
is :'4
from C.
more than 4 from
inch on line
'4
M
inches less than
'4
1
3 is
inches.
s
'4
is
i
inches.
^ ->
'
Sack Coat
1
drawn from 4 through
3.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 3
is :'4
inch.
8 from 4
is J/o
inch.
9 from
5 is
'4
10 from
7 is
'4
inch on line
'4
inch.
1 1
from S
12
is
is
inch.
located by a line
13 from
1
2
is
'4
drawn from 8 through
drawn from
X through
7.
Y.
inch.
For button stand allow
Po
to 2 inches for single breasted,
breasted. Finish the front as represented.
'
2^2 to 3'o inches for doubfe
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens'
Sack Coat
217
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
218
Childrens' Loose
up
First lay
all
Box Coat
points as described in Systematic Outiine for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 0), 1
then continue as follows:
from E
1
inch.
''4
is
2 from
D
is
1'2
inch.
3 from
K
is '4
inch.
4
is
the center between
5 from 4
is
6 from E
is
7 from 4
is
's
8 from 6
is
1
9 from S
is
10 from
D
's
inch.
inch
1
H-M.
more than
5
from C.
inch.
inch.
'4 inch.
is
the
full
Square out
length desired.
line
from 10 as represented.
1 1 is
located by drawing a line from
12
is
located
by drawing
13
is
located
by a
14 from
I
line
a line
from
5
7
inch above the bottom
through 6 and
is
'4
through 8 and
is
from
squared out from
7
line,
the
same length
and
3 to 3'^ inches for
as
I
I
from
5,
10.
3 is '4 inch.
Allow
for button stand
I
'o to
2 inches for single breasted
breasted.
Finish the
draft as represented.
double
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens* Loose
Box Coat
219
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
220
Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments Measurement Breast 29 inches, Sleeve length
1
4 inches.
To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case 4 inches. C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus l^ inch, in this case (9 I
'x
plus
'
o)
lOj/s
inches.
D
from B
is
Draw
the
same
as
a line from
C from A on C to D.
line
squared up from
B.
between A - B. by a line squared up from E. G is the center between B - D. H from G is '4 inches on line squared out from G. I is the center between A - C. J from is the same as from A on line squared down from K from is 2 inches. L from A is 2 inches. Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. is the center between L - J. N from M IS '4 inch.
E
is
the center
F
is
lacated
1
1
1
i.
1
M
O
is
the center betvi^een
P from
Q
O
is
from C is from F is
R
Draw S from
is
C.
-
'/^
inch on line
drawn from
U
J
through C.
/2 inches.
1
lines betvvfeen
Q R -
D.
-
'2 inch.
Draw a line from S to R. from H is inch on line drawn from from E is '4 inch. inch. from H is from U is 2 '4 inches. Draw lines between K V.
T
V
C
J
inch.
I
I
D through
H.
1
W
-
W
-
Sleeve for Childrens' Garments First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-U-L. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- -2-W-K. :
I
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments
Sleeve for Childrens' Garments
2*
H(
/
221
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
222
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining
For Childrens' Sizes
First lay
up
all
points to your measure as described
in
Systematic Oudine
for Childrens' Sizes, then continue as follows 1
from
2
is
E
is
1
1 2
inches.
H-M.
the center between
3 from
inch.
2
is
'/-i
1
is
one quarter of the waist measure
4 from
measure
is
26 inches
in this case will
;
less
'4
inch.
For instance the waist
be point 4 from point
I
(6 '2 less
^4)
5 4
inches.
Finish the back as represented.
5 from 2
is !H
inch.
down from
6
is
located
by a
line
squared
7
is
located
by a
line
drawn from
8 from
Q
is
Q
5.
parallel with line
X-Z.
2'^ inches.
Measure up the waist
line
from
1
to 4
and 6
to Z;
deduct from
this
the half actual waist measure plus 2-4 inches for seams, and the surplus
measure is
to
be
taken out in dart.
For instance by drafting a size
measures 15% inches
;
be 15)4 inches; surplus
9 from 10 from
7
is
h
1
the waist line from
the half actual waist measure is
-2
inch,
which
is
to
is
1
to
13 plus 2
be taken out
inch.
Finish the front as represented. that
'n
seams are allowed
all
'4 for
6 to
over in this draft.
Z
seams, will
in dart as follows:
7 is /i inch.
Remember
4 and
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining
For Childrens' Sizes
223
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
224
Waist For Childrens' Sizes
up
First lay
all
points to your measure as described in
then continue as follows 1
from E
2 from 3
is
is
is
inch on line
1
3
is
'
:
inch.
,'4
the center between
4 from 5
I
is
drawn from
5 is
through
I
inch.
2
inch on line
1
D
H-M.
located by a line squared
6 from
Systematic Outline (page 2
down from
drawn from
4.
4 thro Jgh 5.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 3
8
is
is
inch.
2
located by a line squared
9 from 8
10 from
Z
is
IS
Draw 1 1
'
from
Z
is
inch on line
I
1
'4
'
2
drawn from
7
7.
through
8.
inches.
a line from
1
down from
inches,
X through more or
I
0.
less
Finish the front as represented.
accordingly style or taste.
10),
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Waist For Childrens Sizes
225
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
226
Children^' Coat Dress
First lay
up
all
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes
(page 2
1
0),
then continue as follows:
D
from
1
is
the
full
length desired.
Square out from
2
is
the center between
3 from
2
is
4 from E 5
is
is
1
as represented.
H-M.
inch.
'4
inch more than 3 from C.
i
located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and
from
inch
abow
the
line
squared
is
'4
is
from 6 the same length as
out
1
Finish the back as represented.
6 from 7
is
2
is
Z
is
Draw is
inch.
located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and
8 from
9
'4
'4
inch.
a line from
X
through 8 for the front center
located by drawing a line from
10 from 9
is
's
X
inch.
Finish the front as represented.
through Y.
line.
5
from
3.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens' Coat Dress
227
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
228
Standing or Military Collar For Childrens' Sizes
A. Square both ways from
A
B
from
C
is
D
from
E
from B
F
is
the center of
A
-
3 inches
is
B
J from
A
from
on
line
squared up from B.
drawn from
D
to E.
inch.
'4
U inch. inch,
'4
is
Shape the Line
two seams.
inch.
'4
is
is
for
inch.
'4
is
is
represented.
B.
the center of line
from F
K
A
A as
measure plus U inch
3 inches.
is
G from E H from D I
the half neck
is
1
C
-
collar as represented. is
the back center.
High Standing Collar For Childrens' Sizes
A. Square both ways from A.
B C
from from
A A
is
the half neck measure plus
is
3 inches. 3 inches
D
from B
is
E
from
D
is
F from B
G
from
C
'4
is 'h is /4
on
line
's
inch for one seam.
squared up from
B.
inch. inch.
inch.
Fold the paper on
Shape the
line
E-F, which
collar as represented.
is
the front center.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Standing or Military Collar For Childrens' Sizes
High Standing Collar For Childrens' Sizes
229
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
230
Childrens'
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the bottom
Place the top- and under sleeves together at the
should overlap
'4
inch for taking the seams
Childrens'
One
off,
and
back seam
so,
that
they
that
they
finish as represented.
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
Place the top- and under sleeves together at the
should ovedap
The
cuff
'4
is
inch for taking the seams
off,
and
back seam
so,
finish the sleeve as represented.
represented by heavy, broken lines.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens'
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the bottom
Childrens'
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
231
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
232
Childrens*
A-B. Draw
"4
inch for taking the seams
a straight line from
A
C
is
D
from
C
from
D
is
the half wrist
F from D
is
the
E
the center between is
Piece Tight Sleeve
under sleeves together
Place the top- and
should overlap
One
and
the sleeve length
same
as
E
A
off,
back seam
at the
that
so,
then continue as follows
they
:
to B.
B.
measure on
measure plus from
D
on
's
line
line
squared
inch for a
down from
C.
seam on line squcU-ed out from D.
drawn from E throngh D.
Finish the sleeve as represented.
Childrens*
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under aurm
First
make One
Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as
follows
A-B-C-D E-F
is
is
the original sleeve.
about the middle of the under sleeve.
Cut through the sleeve of the sleeve so, that
mark
over the
By using
new this
at
E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side
B-C should be
placed to
A-D
accordingly
notches,
and
sleeve as represented.
kind of a sleeve be careful that the side seam of the garment
should correspond with the seam of the sleeve.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens'
^
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
E
Childrens*
with seam at the middle of the under arm
233
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
234
Collars For Childrens' Sizes 9 from 6
Ulster Collar Diagram
Draw
A
througli 2 to 3. a line from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more, than the width of the back neck. 1-2.
4 from
3
1
is
dow^n from is 5 from down from
inches
on
line
squared
inches
on
line
squared
'4
to
3.
on
3 is the collar width as desired squared out from 3. 7 from b is '4 inch for spring.
6 from
a line from is
1
5 from
a
line
5
is
through 2
to
the
1
Diagram C through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a line from 3 fron 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. '4 inches on line squared 4 from 3 is I
from
5
through
3.
is the width of collar desired squared down from 4. 7 from 6 is ''4 inch for spring.
en
line
Shape the
collar as indicated.
stand at 5
-
2
-
3 is to
be stretched.
Standing Rolling Military Collar Diagram
Draw
D
through 2 to 3. a line from 3 from 2 is 4 inch more than the width of the back neck.
7
line
squared
_>
the standing 1
'
Finish the collar as represented.
Storm Collar Diagram G
-^.
6 from 4
5 6
on
I
I
4
inches
I
1
1-2.
/4
collar, which was produced accordingly Ciagram B. is inches, and is the same 5 from 74 from 2. length f;om 2 as 6 from 2 is the w^idth of the collar desired on line draw^ from 2 through 3. 7 from 6 is J inch for spring. is
I
The
1
Diagram F
Standing Rolling Ulster Collar
2 to
width
Standing Lay Down Collar from two pieces 1-2-3-4
'
'4 inches. is 5 from Shape the collar stand
the
2.
5.
3.
width
I
down from
to
5.
I
I
than
1
back neck.
'
of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. inch. 4 from 3 is inch. 5 from 3 is inches. is 6 from Shape the collar as represented. I
inch more
'4
is
I
from 4 through
Finish the collar as represented.
more than
inch
'4
Draw
7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on line squared up from 5, inch for spring. 8 from 7 is
Diagram B 2
1
down from
Standing or Military Collar Draw
is
6 from
collar as indicated.
Shape the
1-2.
Diagram E the shoulder point. is V^ inches. 2 from 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 is located by draw^ing a line from 3 to 1
of the
line
3 from
and Button High Collar
Roll
t
I
a straight line from 5 to 4. a line for the collar stand from 5
through 2
9-7-8
3. 1
1
Draw Draw
'4
I
is the width as desired. Finish the collar as represented. The outer leaf of the collar line must be slightly stretched.
1
Square up and down from 3. inch. from 3 is inch. from 3 is '4 inches. is from from 5 is the width of the roll collar as
For producing this collar take a standing collar and cut it in three pieces. 1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of three part. 7are produced by dividing the top line of the collar of three parts. Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so far as much fulness you desire and finish the collar as represented. Allow for seams between the pieces.
Flat Collar Diagram H
1
1
1
I
7
is
J^
inch for spring.
off,
desired.
put together the shoulder so, that inch for taking the the collar to the shape
this collar at
they should overlap
seams
desired.
8 from
For producing and back
the front
and mark
'4
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Collars For Childrens' Sizes
235
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
236
Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts Measurement Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Front length 23 inches. Side length 23 inches, Back length 23 inches.
To Draft A. Square both ways from
as represented.
is
the half waist measure, in this case
from B
is
5 '4
from
D
from
A
is
4 inches.
from
D
is
the half
Draw
E
A
A
B C
I
3 inches.
inches on line squared out from B.
a line
from
A
through C.
Hip measure,
in this case l7'o
inches on line
drawn from
D
parallel
with line A-C.
F
is
G H I
located by a line squared out from E.
from F is
is
\}/4
inches.
the center between
H
from
is
'
2
A
-
Finish the waist line
A
J from
K
from
L
from
1
G
is
is is
G.
inch.
A-l-G
as represented.
the front length measure, in this case 23 inches. the side length measure, in this case 23 inches. the back length measure, in this case 23 inches on line
Finish the draft as represented.
drawn from
G
through E.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts
237
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
238
Childrens' Five
First lay
up
all
Gore
Skirt
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts
(page 236), then continue as follows 1
from
2
is
is
3 inches.
is
the center between
3 from
4
A
5 J is
'
l;
1
-G.
inches (twice as
the center betw^een 3
Draw
lines betw^een
-
as
I
from
A less
Vi inch).
L.
1
Measure up the waist measure and the
much
-3
and
line
half actual waist
2-4.
from
A
to
measure is
G to
and the difference between
be taken out
this
in darts as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Childrens' Five
Gore
Skirt
239
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
240
Remember and decreases from and Juniors 2
that
by Childrens the Breast measure increases
size to size
inches.
1
h
inches, during
by Ladies, Misses
PART FIVE
INFANTS'
GARMENTS
242
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Collars for Infants' as for Childrens' Garments.
Garments are Constructed the same way
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Table of Proportionate Measurements For Infants' Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
243
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
244
Systematic Outline For Infants' Sizes
Measurement Breast 24 'o inches.
Scye depth
Waist 23 inches. Hips 30 '^ inches. inches. Back waist length
5 inches.
1
To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is one third of the full Breast measure, in this case 8,'s inches.
C
inch. from B is from C is the Scye depth measure, in this case 5 inches. (In lack of the Scye depth i-j,
D
measure
D
is
from
C
'i
inch more than the
center of A-C.)
E from D
is
the
in this case
F From E
is
1
back waist length measure,
M
from L
N
is
O
from
P
is
G
from
C
is
line as represented.
the half
(I2J4 plus 3
inches, in this case
's)
3
's
15 's
C
from
is
is
located 1
from
D to
Draw
L
is
is
'
inch
2
1.
a line from
K
to
J.
the center between C-H.
NOTICE:
to P.
more than
at point
S
the center
as represented.
U
from
H
is
1
'4
inches.
V
from
U
is
1
'4
inches on line
In all
Diagrams
Draw^ a line from
W from S X
from
W
is
squared
out
from
Z
is
G
the
is
V.
same as D-K on
line
is
'
squared
s inch.
located by drawing a line from
X through
Y.
designed
in this
Systematic Outline
Table of Aliquot Parts Measure
to
W.
out from
Y
T
2 inches.
inch seams allowed.
Breast
O
from U.
the same as C from A. by a line squared out from H. J from is the same as D from C. K from D is one quarter part of line drawn I
a line from
1
inches.
H
the center betwen M-N.
from J is inch, and is from S on line drawn from S through T 's inch longer than line K-D, this 's inch is to be taken off in corner
Square out lines from C for the Breast from E for the waist line and from F Breast measure plus
M.
inch.
between H-G. R is located by a line squared up from Q. S from R is '4 inch less than D-K.
4 inches.
Hip
inches.
'4
1
is 'j
Q from H
line,
for the
N
Draw
T
inches.
is
located by a line squared up from
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
are
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Systematic Outline For Infants' Sizes
245
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
246
Infants*
up
First lay
all
Loose Box Coat
points as described in Systematic
Outline for Infants' Sizes (page 244),
then continue as follows:
from E
is
4 incfi.
2 from
D
is
'2 inch.
3 from
K
is
,'4
1
4
is
___^
the centerbetween
5 from 4
is
is
7 from 4
is
8 from 6
is
9 from S
is
10 from
D
inch more than 5 from C.
1
inch.
's
I
H-M.
inch.
''x
6 from E
inch.
'4 inch.
the
is
Square out
full
length desired.
line
from
1
as represented.
through 6 and
11
is
located
by drawing a
line
from
12
is
located
by drawing a
line
from
13
is
located by a line squared out from 10.
14 from
1
3
Allow
;
inch.
is
5
7
through 8 and
is
is
'4
inch above the bottom line.
from
7
the
same length
and
3 to 3' 2 inches for
as
I
I
from
5.
'4 inch.
for button stand 15
2
to 2 inches for single breasted
breasted.
Finish the
draft as represented.
double
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Infants'
Loose Box Coat
247
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
248
Sleeve Construction for Infants^ Garments Measurement Breast
24.' o
inches, Sleeve length
1
I
inches.
To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case inches. C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus y, inch, in this I
I
case (8' s plus
'
.)
8>;
inches.
D
from B
is
the
Draw
E
is
F
is
same
as
a line from
the center between
C from C to D.
A
-
A
on
line
squared up from
B.
lacated by a line squared
up from E. between B - D. from G is '4 inches on line squared out from G. I is the center between A - C. J from I is the same as I from A on line squared down from K from I is 2 inches. L from A is 2 inches. Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. is the center between L - J. N from M IS ,'4 inch.
G H
is
B.
the center 1
I.
M
O
is
the center betw^een
P from O Q from C
R
from F
is is is
Draw S from C
T
U
V
W
is
I
lo
J
-
C.
inch.
inch on line
drawn from
J
through C.
I/2 inches. lines
between
Q R -
-
D.
/2 inch.
Draw a line from S to R. from H is inch on line drawn from from E is ;'4 inch. from H is inch. from U is 2 '4 inches. Draw lines between K V. 1
D through
H.
1
W
-
Sleeve for Infants' Garments First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-UL. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- -2-W-K. r
I
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sleeve Construction for Infants' Garments
Sleeve for Infants' Garments
249
:
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER A ND CUTTER
250
Infants'
First lay
up
all
Coat Dress
points as described in Systematic Outline for Infants'
Garments (page 244),
then continue as follows
D
from
1
is
the
length desired.
full
Square out from
2
is
the center between
3 from 2
4 from E 5
is
'4
is
is
H-M.
inch.
inch
I
as represented.
1
more than
3
from C.
located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and
from
is
'4
inch
abow
the line
squared out
1
Finish the back as represented.
6 from 7
is
2
is
Z
is
Draw is
inch.
located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and
8 from
9
,'4
located
10 from 9
is
'4
from 6 the same length as
inch.
a line from
X
by drawing ;',x
is
through 8 for the front center
a line from
X
inch.
Finish the front as represented.
through Y.
line.
5
from
3.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Infants'
Coat Dress
251
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
252
Infants*
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the bottom
Place the top- and
should overlap
'4
under sleeves together
inch for taking the seams
Infants'
One
off,
at the
and
back seam
so,
that
they
that
they
finish as represented.
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
Place the top- and under sleeves together at the
should overlap
The
cuff
'4
is
inch for taking the seams
off,
and
back seam so
,
finish the sleeve as represented.
represented by heavy, broken lines.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Infants'
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the bottom
Infants'
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
253
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
254
Infants'
To produce
a
they should overlap
Yoke U
lay the
inch
for
Yoke
back and front together figuring
the
seams
at the
off,
and
shoulder finish
that
so,
the
Yoke
as represented.
Infants' Shield
To Produce
a Shield lay the back
that they should overlap
as represented.
'4
and
front
together at
inch for figuring the ÂŁearr.s
off,
c.nd
the
shonlder
finish
the
so,
Shield
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Infants'
Yoke
Infants' Shield
255
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
256
Hood
The hood
A-B
is
1
inches,
C
from B
is
D
from
C
is
E
from
D
is
1
is
constructed from a cape as follows
more or
less
accordingly style or
taste.
inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches.
one-third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches. 1
inch.
Finish the hood as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Hood
257
258
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Collars for Infants'
as for Childrens' Garments.
Garments are constructed the same way
PART
SIX
GRADING
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
260
Art of Grading
Graduation
described as the
cutting
is
it
sized
of different
a single model,
ments from
ment
may be
number
of grading a
and
frequently a great assistance
production
This, indeed, the
the most practical
system of grading lends
Assuming so corrected correct it
fit
use
produce
as
produce a
to
Revers,
been
is
the
same
gathers,
shapes,
plaits,
By no other plan
of
In the
anxious
is
embod-
a comlete set of patterns
lapels,
folds,
to
tucks,
The
diagrams the inside
sizes are in
cal
a logical and It
and comprehensive
Juniors'
must be in
minute
made up in different The medium size is for
ment
is
added
size or
size, for
sizes.
If
:
Ladies'
Garments
Misses'
"
16
Juniors'
''
15
36 Bust
Years
20
3
"
19
"
6
"
i4
"
"
2
"
6
The amount v^fhich
deatil
â&#x20AC;˘
"
"
Infants'
practi-
exact,
show how
"14 1
Childrens'
scientific
manufacturing every gar-
w^holesale
In
truly
lines
:
"
Misses'
But to attain succes the grader must have
of working.
never
size.
"
method
tabes,
are
etc.
Ladies' Garments from 32 to 44
more expedi-
at
through grading.
command
scallops,
grade a smaller size and the outside lines
shov/ to grade a larger
working can such a
desirable result be arrived
at his
as diagrams will
heading.
this
graded; regarding this use your ow^n judgment.
ying the same excellencies.
tiously than
grading
show under
with a perfection of style,
naturally follows that the cutter
to
it
itself.
alterations
combined
garment
of
style
may be â&#x20AC;&#x201D; tight fitting, semi-filting or loose no matter how many pieces the pattern is cut into, the
that a single pattern has
by
4
Whatever shape or
pattern
of
which the
to
10 Years
"
Infants'
in ladies gar-
to the grader.
sets, is
Childrens' Garments
art
gar-
is
taken
amount
size to
instance from 36 to 38 or vice-versa.
you
to
smaller
from
to for larger size is
v^rish to
grade for 2 sizes larger or
smaller, for instance from 36 to
have
off for
add as
to,
resp. to take
40 than you
off
marked on diagrams.
the
double
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
261
Scale of Regular Stock Patterns Showing how many inches the garment increases and decreases from
Measures
size to size.
in
proportion
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
262
Grading of Ladies' Tighth-Fitting with dart
Increases and
Decreases for
Each Size
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Grading of Ladies' Semi-Fitting with Side Piece
263
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
264
Grading of Ladies' Eton
Increases and
Decreases for
Each Size
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Grading of Ladies' Semi-Fitting French
Increases
and
Decreases for
Each Size
Seam
265
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
266
Grading of Ladies' Tight-Fitting French
Increases and
Decreases for
Each Size
Seam
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
267
Grading of Ladies' Tight-Fitting Double French
Increases
and
Decreases for
Each Size
Seam
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
268
How
to
Grade
Misses' Sizes
from Ladies' Size Patterns
Size
20
is
the
same
as size 38.
Size
1
8
is
the
same
as size 36.
Size
1
6
is
the
same
as size 34, but
Size
1
4
is
the
same
as size 32, but
'
1
o
inch shorter in the waist lengtht. inch shorter in the waist length.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Grading of Misses'
Increases and
and
Juniors' Tight-Fitting with dart
-269
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
270
Grading of Misses'
Increases and
and
Juniors' Tighth-Fitting
French Seam
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Grading of Childrens'
and
Infants' Semi-Fitting
271
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
272
Grading of Childrens*
Increases and
Decreases for
Each Size
and
Infants'
Box Coat
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
273
Grading of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens'
// ^^^^Si,
and Infants' Sleeve
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
274
Grading of Cape, Yoke, Collar, Cuff
increases and Decreases for
Neck
J4,
Around
Yoke: Neck
'4,
Front
Cape
:
Collar:
Neck
,^4
Bust
J4,
1
Back
inch.
,'4
inch.
inch.
Cuff: Length on top
'
j.
on bottom
's
inch.
Each Size
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Length of Garments
1
275
276
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Skirts
PART SEVEN
SPECIAL
MEASUREMENT
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
278
Foundation of Garment Cutting
The method
may be
of Cutting
ways,
divided in various
may be
they
point,
two
divided into
plans,
as ocassion
it
may demand,
many
for
judgement
by
either
practical
stand-
the cutting of a special pattern for
viz,
each customer and the using of one model pattern adapting
instance
for
as
Proportinate and Special measures system, but looked at from the
customers,
different
the
or
of
indications
special measures.
Cutting by model patterns
much may be
one of the most successful methods, and whilst
is
the
said in favor of
drafted
specially
pattern
in it
each
for
customer, yet there are also a considerable number of arguments
To
favor of the model pattern being used as the basis of operation.
much
is
same
easier to retain the
in
style
method than from any other; and when
number
large
garment
of customers
The
own
essential
first
many methods their
made
can be
it
smart hanging,
good-fitting,
really reliable,
can be used
it
in
all
more advantageous in this
is
to get a
cutters
style
add
good
make
at
this
what
surprising
is
it
a very varied selection
adjusting
There
fit.
skill
it
honor
of
of
first
so
a a
of
there are
produce
to
cutting
all
every
that
who
are others
of
and
model,
fitting
point
a
it
each stage by
themselves of the
to avail
way they
and what
for,
and then altering and
brought to meet their views of
and
this
Some
of doing this.
in linen
garment,
stylish
by
pattern that will produce
a
to produce.
models, carefully testing them
garment out
has
advanced
begin with,
produced
garments
the
all
one
individual
be
to
find
more experienced
detail it
the is
much
practitioners,
which would other-
are enabled to obtain the very best talent,
wise be quite beyond them.
There
are others
to test
pattern,
of sizes.
it
who
adopt a third plan, and that
by experiment, and then use
This requires some
skill,
and
if
it
is
as the basis
done well
it
w
ill
to
pocure
a
simple
for grading a full
set
produced most satisfactory
results.
The basis.
cutter has necessarily to decide
There
purpose; but
are in
some
who
would
vote
which for
style
of
model he
tight-fitting jacket
view of the popularity of the semi-fitting
style
at
will
use as his
pattern for his
the present time,
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
who
there are those
ment and model
Each plan has
figure.
of a jacket
Others again,
prefer that fashion.
and adapt the various
their basis,
its
advantages.
Hning
as
of
on the whole
a semi-fitting
the
gar-
which
pattern
of
produce
will
a
garment.
st\lish
The
Possibly,
bodice
the
requirements
about the most useful type for the cutter of the present time,
is
enabling him to cut the most fashionable style smart,
use
parts according to the
279
principles underlaying
the
all
systems
now
in
which
all
Cutting
of
use
are
grouped under two headings.
The
1
Proportionate measurement.
2.
Special measurement.
Proportionate
measurement of cutting
are those in
points
of
attitude,
as
the draft are obtaned by fixed proportions of the breast circumference. I
1.
erect,
That
it
1
hat
Proportionate measure system are:
a
does not provide for disproportion
high or low shouldered,
stooping, 2.
same
he principle disadvantages of
it
full
or
does not provide for difference
flat
in
or
variations
breasted,
in
etc.
shoulder or scye for figures of
breast measures.
That
it
leaves too
much
to the
judgement of the
and too
cutter
much
to
chance.
The
Proportionate measurement
womankind were
all
b.isis
of Cutting
would only
be
reliable
if
In such a case divisions of
of strictly proportionate formation.
the circimiference of breast would produce correct outlines. Special measures,
they give to the cutter such confidence
their appLcation as cannot be otherwise obtained,
and
in
all
and
productive of the best possible results. Spec.al measures help to one to judge
assurance
kinds of garments
customers form
well.
in
are
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
280
How
1.
Bust measure. well
to take Special
Around
body under
the
up on shoulder blades
Around
in
back.
the
body
Measurement
the arms, over the fullest part
2.
Waist measure.
3.
Hips measure.— Around the body 6 inches below the waist
4.
Lower shoulder measure.— This measure the center about 4 inches
down
Upper shoulder measure. the center of
the 6.
Back line,
7.
arm back
front,
and
at smallest part in waist.
the back
is
This measure
line.
found by placing the end of the
seam from the center back
the other end over the shoulder and under the 5.
in
is
arm back
of
at
neck, passing
to the starting point.
found by placing the end
back neck, passing the other end down the
tape
of
the tape at
front of shoulder
and under
to the starting point.
waist-length measure.
and continue down
From
center
back
of
neck
down
to the natural waist
to the full-length desired.
Front waist-length measure.
From
center
back
of
neck
to
the
waist
of
center
of front.
From
8.
Bust depth measure.
9.
Side waist-length measure.
center back of neck to the
— From
brow
of bust.
center back of neck, over the shoulder to the waist
line at side.
For the sleeve length take the inside seam from the arm
pit
to the wrist.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
How
to take Special
Measurement
281
'
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
282
Systematic Outline By
Measurement
Special
Measurement Bust 40 inches.
Back waist-length
Waist 26 inches. Hips 4 inches. Lower shoulder 25 inches. Upper shoulder 25''4 inches.
Front waist-length 23' Bust depth
1
Scale
Excess
inches.
2
length 2 1
inches.
1
8 inches.
in this case 12/0 inches. Half Scale is 6^4 One-Quarter Scale is 3',x
—
between the Lower
difference
the
is
case
w^aist
inches.
2
inches.
5
Sleeve length
'
Lower shoulder measure,
the half
is
Side
1
5
1
Upper shoulder measures,
and
in
thi
iJ inch.
'
To Draft A. Draw a straight line as from B from A is the half Scale plus half Excess, in this case 6' 4 's
C
A
from
plus
'^
plus
plus
the back waist-length measure,
is
for the Bust line,
line
and from
D
for the top line,
C
from
from B
F from B
measure 24 inches.
rep-
plus
the half Bust
is
the Scale less
is
'
2
4
'
in this
in
inch,
this
T
case 12 inches.
G
from F 3/s
H
3;'s
9%
is
B
from
inches, in this case 6/4 plus
less 3
is
'.^
is
G
U
from A is 5 '4 inches. Square out from E,
G
and
I
as rep-
K
I
X
2*4 inches.
is
A
is
one-quarter Scale less
s
in this case 3 inches.
Square out from
K
as represented.
R
from S
W from
resented.
J from from
from
is
/'^
L
inch,
in
more than the dison line draw^n from R
inch to
O
through T. Cut off the point at inch as represented.
in
V F,
I
case 8 inches-
tance from
from F 6 inches.
the half Scale less J4 inch,
case 3 '4 inches.
Square out from S as represented. '-4 inches, from S is half Scale plus this
6 inches.
this case I
the half Scale plus one-quarter
is
Scale less
'
M
from waist
for the
for the hip line as
inches, in this case
M
'
resented.
E
is
M
M
case 153^ inches.
from C is 6 inches. Square out from A
B
% inch
located by drawing a line from A to J. from H is 2 inches. Square out from as represented. plus N from is half Scale inch, in 's this case 6 s inches. O from N is j inch on line drawn from L throguh N. and N. P is the center betw^een Q from I is '4 inch. R is located by drawing a line from A through Q. S from G is one-quarter Scale plus s inch,
L
to D.
together 7*4 inches.
in this
D
A
is
R
R
of
/.s
2 inches.
is
2 inches.
W
as represented. Square out from is one-quarter scale plus 's inch, from
W
in this
case 3
'4
inches.
Y
is
locared by a line squared out from E.
Z
is
located by a line squared out from
F
NOTICE
— disigned in this Systematic Outline — are inch seams allowed. Systematic outline — the half waist Diagrams — designed in In In all
Diagrams
s
this
all
is
measure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 20.) is the half hip designed in this Systematic Outline In all Diagrams measure 1 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hip Development on page 20.)
—
'
—
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
283
Systematic Outline By
#Y
SpecieJ
Measurement
-ih
%
2
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
284
Seam
Tight-Fitting French By up
First lay
as
described
all
points to your
in
Systematic
measure
Outline
(Page
Measurement
Special
Measurement
Special
for
then
282),
continue as follows 1 from R is the Side waist-length measure '4 inches and less the width of the plus to L, in this case back neck as from I
24 from
\%
plus
19/'2
is
22;'4 less 3J4 is
1
from
R
26 from 6 27 from 26
R
the Front length-measure plus inch and less the width of the back to L, in this case 23' neck as from is
%
A
plus 2
i
3<s
24-^s
is
J'8
3 '4,
less
is
2
R
from
inches.
and from Draw lines from C to through 2 for the fashionable waist line 1
I
C
is is
3 from
5 from O 6 from P
Draw
is is
% inches. % inch. % inch. make
to 8
as represented.
%
1
15
is
16
is
7
is
18
is
1
more than
I
3 to 8.
gores as rep-
side
29 from 30 from 31
is
15 2
from 13 the
is
iVo inches.
is
I'l inches.
is
drawing
located by
through 30. 32 from 31 is
33 from R
and
as 14 from 13.
is
a
E
from
line
inch.
's
the Bust depth measure
plus
'4
16^4
less .V4,
point 33 from
is
R
33 is 2 inches on line drawn from 33 parallel with line 1-2. 35 is located by drawing a line from 34
36 from 35 37 from 35 38 from 34 39
inch.
is
inch.
a
line
from
13
4.
is
and 4. located by drawing a line from 1
I
30.
is
2;H inches.
is
the
same length
located by drawing
40 from
39
41 from
R
Draw
as 36
from
1
is is
4
'4
the
a
line
from
36
E-31. inches.
same width
as
L
to
7.
a line from 41 to 34.
42 from 41 Draw a
the half-way between 9 and H. the half-way between
E-
/4 inches.
1
parallel with line
inch.
through 7. 19 from 17 is '^ inch. 20 from 17 is j/2 inch. inch. 21 from 18 is inch, 22 from 18 is 23 from 15 is /i inch.
is
34.
inch.
located by drawing
through
and
inch,
'4
is
same length
parallel with line
1
1
inch for seam.
34 from
inch less than A to K. 8 from 3 is 9 is located by drawing a line from 7
11 from 8 is 12 from 10 is 13 from F is J4. is 14 from
%
13 inche?.
is the half-way between 5 and L, or the width to style or taste.
inch
the
resented.
1 V4
I
% %
6
A
2 inches.
7
is
ji inch higher
is
inch.
1
is
Finish the back
1
a line from 5 to 6.
10 from 4
and
inches and less the width of the back to L, in this case 15 plus neck as from
as represented.
4 from D
is
1
28 from l4
inches.
2 from
inch,
'js
%
A
21
7 is
from the line L-5. inch, and is from 25 from 5 is same length as O from P.
is
inch for seams.
'4
line
from 42
parallel with
line
41-34. 16
43 from 14
is
the
same length
as 29
from
I
1
28.
44 from 40 45 from 36
is
is
1
y^ inches.
the
same
length as 44 from
38.
1
Finish the front as represented.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting French
Seam
By Special Measurement
285
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
286
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front By
Measurement
Special
First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Special Measurement (Page 282), then continue as follows: 1 from R is the Side waist-length measure plus /4 inches and less the width of the back from R 19'^ inches. neck as from A to L, in this case 21 plus \'}4 is 22,4 less 334 is 2 from R is the Front length-measure plus >ÂŤ inch and less the width of the back neck x inches. as from A to L, in this case 23 '^ plus '^ is 24% less 3/^. is 2 from R 2 and from through 2 for the fashionable waist line as Draw^ lines from C to I
I
'
1
I
I
represented.
3 from
C
4 from
3 is
is
from D is from P is from H is from 4 is from 5 is
5 6 7 8 9
inches.
/'z
I
/4 inch.
inch.
1
inch.
'4
inch.
/'4
inch more than the distance from
I
inch
'4
more than
A
to K.
the distance from 4 to
8.
Finish the back as represented.
10 from 8
/4 inch.
is
from 9 is J/2 inchees. 12 from 6 is }4 inch. 13 from F is % inch. is ''4 inch. 14 from 15 is located by drawing a 16 from 14 is /<> inch. 1 1
i
1
from 13 through
line
14.
Finish the side gore as represented.
17 from 18 from 19 from
is
1
1
5
2
20 from R
and
is
from F the same length as 16 from
13.
inch.
1
2 inches.
is
Draw
inch,
2
'
is
from E through
line
19.
the Bust depth measure
is
neck as from
A
to L, in this case
plus
I
34 inches
15 plus 134
is
16^4
and less
less 3 34,
the is
13 inches.
21 from 20
22 23 24 25 26 27
28
inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19.
13'^
is
is
located by drawing
is
located
from from from from from
22 24
by drawing J/t.
is
3 inches.
21
is
the
is
%
from 21 parallel with line E-19. from 21 parallel with line E-19.
line line
inch.
is
23
a a
same length
as 24 from 21.
inch.
27 is 3/4 inches. Finish the front as represented.
29 from 6 30 from 28 1
31 from 24
is
is is
the I
'4
the
same length
as
1
8 from
I
7.
inches.
same length
as 30
from
Finish the bottom as represented.
26.
width of the back point 20 from R
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front By
Special
Measurement
287
o
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
288
Systematic Outline By
Special
Measurement
No Seam Allowances Measurement Back
Bust 40 inches. Waist 26 inches. Hips 4 inches. Lower shoulder 25 inches. Upper shoulder 25*4 inches. 1
Scale
1
5
'
inches.
j
1
Side waist length 2 inches. Sleeve length 8 inches. 1
1
the half Low^er shoulder measure, in this case 12'
is
Excess
waist-length
Front waist-length 23*2 inches. Bust depth 5 inches.
is
6/^
is
3}/g
between the Low^er
difference
the
is
Half Scale
One-Quarter Scale
Upper shoulder measures,
and
-
in
this
case "s inch.
To Draft A. Draw a straight line as from A to W. B from A is Sj-o inches on line squared up from A. C from B is 2 '4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A to C. D from A is the half Scale plus â&#x20AC;˘'is inch plus half Excess, in this case 6J4 plus is ZH inches.
'k
plus /s
E
Square out line from D as represented. from D is the Scale less ^ inch, in this 1
2 inches.
F from D from E
6/4 plus
D
3',s
from E is Square
is
I
inch, in
I
less Jo
is 2/.s
inches.
I
plus
is
2
J from F
lines
from
% O
G
is
from
L
J
to
and M.
F.
half Scale plus 2's inches plus
is
934 inches.
from E this case
P from N
half Scale plus
is
6'4 plus the
is
l,',s
is
I's inches,
7%
N
in
inches.
same length
on line drawn from Q from E is 2 inches.
is
1,
E,
G
and
H
half Scale plus
'
inch, in
2
A
is J.
'
2
''2
is
inch on line
2
's
'
2
a line from
N
one-quarter
as L from through O.
K
Draw
a line from is
2
T
A
is
the
from
1
in
to
Q.
from
N
from
N
is
^-'4
Scale,
R
to
H.
inches.
Back waist-length measure,
15*2 inches. the Side waist-length measure
back neck as from is
A
to K.
the Front waist-length measure
Z
back neck as from A to K. from N is the Bust depth measure the back neck as from A to K.
Y
Draw lines from T to U and from U to V. and X are located by a line squared up from W.
less the
inch,
inches.
K
this case
less the
as
P
in this case inches on line squared out from N.
R
this
drawn from
Draw from
S from
U
F,
case 6)4 plus J2 's 6^4 inches. is one-quarter Scale less from
from J through
R
V
in this case 3',s less
L
from
a line
half Excess, in this case 6*4 plus 2'\ plus
inches.
1
inches.
j/2
I
20 plus
represented.
K
N
3',s
7J4 inches.
the half Bust measure
is
inch, in this case I
the center between
Draw
one-quarter Scale less ^2 inch,
is
case
in this
from
the half Scale plus
is
this case
H
is
'
case
G
M
less
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Systematic Outline By
Special
Measurement
289
4 1.
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
290
Tight-Fitting Jacket By
Special
Measure System
Seams are not allowed
First lay up all points to your measure (page as described in Systematic Outline 288), then continue as follows: 1 from T is 2 inches. '4 inches. is 2 from
W
4
is
1
I
1
hips equally divided at points
to
3
is
7 from
5
is
8 9 10
is
is
through 9. from 9 is 12 from 9 is
'2 '
_;
located by
is
through 8. 14 from 10 is is 15 from 16 from X is ,'2 Finish both 1 7 from U is '4 I
1
I
same length 18 from X is 19 from V is
20
located
is
through
21 from
22
drawing a
12
inch. inch. inch. gores as represented. side
and from I.
inch
U
from
is
I
the
1/2 inches. '4 inches. I
by drawing
is
'4
a
H
from
line
K
than
inch less
by drawing a
located by
is
from
line
from A. from 2
line
H-20.
drawmg
from
a line
21
through 22. 1
from
line 1
1
U
to
I
I
and
I
7
7'4 inches.
The this
in dart.
24 from 22
one-third of the Dart, in this '2 inches. case 25 from 23 is the same as 24 from 22. 26 from 24 is the Dart, in this case 4*4 inches. 27 is located by drawing a line from 2 through 26 and is from 2 the same length as 24 from 2 28 from 25 is '4 inch more than 26 from 24. Measure up the hip line from 2 to 5 is
I
1
I
2
'
14,
's
A
inches.
3
to
case half of the actual waist measure is in case 13 inches; there is a surplus 4' taken out inches, which amount is to be
to
19; the total is in this
18,
through 2. a line from the is located by drawing middle of 3-6 through 5. 34 is located by drawing a line from the middle of 3-6 through 7 and is the same length from 6 as 33 from 3. 35 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 14. 36 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 15, and is from 11 the same length as 35 from 12. 37 is located by drawing a line from U through 18. 38 is located by drawing a line from )4 is inch outside from U through 16, and from U the same length as 37 from 1 7. 39 is located by drawing a line from 27 through 28 and is 1 /4 inches below 31. 40 is located by a line drawn from 24 through 25. and is from 24 the same length as 39 from 27. Allow for single breasted button stand 1
Measure up the waist and continue 6 to 2,
16,
inch.
33 from 8
line
19.
Z
located
is
as
a
inch. inch.
parallel with line
23
32 and 4. U and 6.
1
is
Finish the front as represented. is the full length desired. is located by a line squared out from 30. a line from 1 is located by drawing
30 from 31
inch. inch.
the center between the center between located by drawing
is
1 1
13
'4 1
1
7.
29 from 20
1
6 from
and
15
is
M
5
I
inch less than K from A. located by drawing a curved line from 3 as represented. from 2 is ^,'4 inch more than 3 from Finish the back as represented.
3 from
and continue 7 to 14, 5 to 18 to 6, 28 and 25 to 20. The difference between this total and the half of the actual hips measure is to be added to by larger size smaller size hips and to be taken off by
41 from
42
The N is
and Lapel
Collar 1
inch.
the length of the crease line desired. 41 and a line from 42 through longer. is
Draw
43 from N is 44 from 43 is
'4
inch.
inches more than K from on line drawn from 43 parallel with line 42-41-45. 45 is located by a line squared up from 44. 46 is located by a line squared out from 44 and make the width of collar as desired. 47 from 46 is about 2 inch for the spring 1 '4
A
'
of collar.
Finish the draft as represented. No seams or turnings - in allowed
on
this draft.
for
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Tight-Fitting Jacket By
Special
Measure System
Seams are not allowed
291
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
292
Taking Special Measurement For Direct Short Measure System
(How
to
apply
this
measurement
to the
System see pages 308 and 309.)
Measurement For Body 2-6-2
Arond
3-9-3
Around
12-12
bust waist
Around hips
1-2
Back scye depth
1-3
Back waist length
Over shoulder
2-5-6
1-6 Front
shoulder
Front waist length
1-7
1-8 Bust 1-9
depth
Side waist length
11-11 Across chest
6-6 Across bust 6-
Sleeve length
1
For Skirt
Arond
3-9-3
12-12 7-1 3
waist
Around hips
Front length
9-14 Side length 9-
1
5
Back length
PART EIGHT
RIDING
AND SPORTING GARMENTS
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
294
Riding Skirts
In the
middle of the
last
century they were simply several
widths of material plaited into the waist and to flow gracefully to at least
wearer. These, although the standpoint of safety,
when
it
were not
was found
the lady had the misfortune to be
the surplus material
knock
graceful,
of twisting
which
formed
the
themselves round the
a
enough
long
cut
12 inches below
the
the
of
feet
from
practical, and,
death-trap
veritable
thrown from her horse; graceful
pommel
folds of
and the lady would be dragged along the ground
the till
had
a
saddle,
she
was
kicked to death.
Then came and
shorter,
a revolution,
and closer and
and
closer,
trains till
were
made
shorter
they arrived at what
was
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
when
thought to be the utmost limit of safety,
over the
close-fitting
Experience
the
in
ladies cut out large holes
;
train for additional safety, whilst
cleared
the underpart from the seat
downwards
enough
at either side,
to folds
simplified
over the leg
the
improvements
from the underpart
others
quite
of the train.
suggested
hunting-field
were
they
almost cover
to
showing out from the hem
foot, the toe just
on these
and long enough
seat,
295
away,
and
and
the
of
whole
the
so
just still
of left
further
it.
The most important saddle, that
is,
riding
a
in
come
more
is
a
in contact
particularly about the spot
clean
some time
the
where
with the pommel.
Such superflous material means soreness for
skirt
there must be no wrinkels or creases under
wearer's seat or legs and the knees
item
a
after
ride,
pain
and
the
to
and
rider
such superfluity
so
must be avoided.
The can we is
how
question
locate to
do
if
is,
where the
fulness starts
be
how
present,
and finishes?
Well,
this
it.
Having placed the on the
these things should
skirt
on the custumer and the cusomer
and furthermore, made sure
horse,
that
the
skirt
is
in
the right position, proceed by fittmg the upper side.
When and the
this
front
has been accomplished, rip up the back seam
seam from
clean over the horse,
foot
thus
coarse, that you intand to do
lady
who
clad.
Once
rest
is
put the
skirt
on
the under part
to
knee,
exposing this,
but
whether is
and
first
the
throw
wearer.
the
of
all
exposed on the
front of
the young
ask
customer
the
Mention,
is
interior
properly
then
the
simple.
Having fully readjust.
fitted
the
underside replace the topside and care-
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
296
Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Front These diagrams represent a model reproduced by the inch tape, will 20/2 inches side to knee and
Seams
1
fit
of a side saddle safety riding skirt,
a lady with 26 inches
3 inches rise
waist,
measurement.
are not allowed.
36
r
43 inches
which hips.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
297
Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Back 4t
7t
11
17
lai
22 J
In this particular skirt there is a hole for the
pommels and
is
made
like
a
placquette of a skirt with press studs. If
the rider
is
thrown, these studs
being hung up on the pommel.
come
into
action
and prevent the
rider
.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
298
Apron Riding
Skirts
To Draft This diagram represents a model of an
Apron Riding
the inch tape, will seat.
which reproduced by 24 waist, 40 fit a lady
Skirt,
Seam allawances
of one-quarter of an
inch are allowed.
7
1 1
Back
A is 2 A is 30 1
V X Y B, D,
and
F,
W_;
inches.
1
is
to
L and K
to
M.
1
located by drawing a line from
D
to
3 inches.. 1
inch
between
5
and 6 as
represented.
Draw
lines
and from
T
as represented.
I
V-W
and W-Z.
1
is
V-W.
the center of
21 fom 20 22 from 1
1/4 inches.
is is
}/)
inch.
Finish the back part as represented.
R. 1
4 inches.
1
Finish waist line as represented.
20
2 inches.
6 from 5 is Take out
as
I
1
is
H
1
2 from is H4 inches. 3 is the center of K-M. 3
is
from from Continue the line T-I from is 14 inches.
the center of J-L,
4 from
and
G is 20 inches. H is 3! 2 inches. H is 6 inches.
I
I
5
Z
C
Connect
from B is 30 inches. from D is inches. O from D is 28 inches. P from F is 5 inches. Q from F is 5 '4 inches. R from F is 28 inches. S from F is 34 inches. T from H is 50 inches. U from H is inch. Draw lines from J is
G
12 from C is 8 inches. Connect E-12. 13 from E is 3 inches. 14 from 13 is 2J-2 inches. 15 from 14 is 4 inches. 16 from C is inches. 17 from G is 10' ^ inches. Connect 16-17. 18 from 3 is 6 inches, 19 from 6 is 6 inches.
inches.
M
1
from
W from
8 inches.
N
from C,
represented.
as represented.
is
lines
I
1
K
inch.
1
Square out
1
L from B
is
I
1
H
from S
Finish the front part as represented.
A. Draw a line as from A to B from A is J/'o inches. C from A is 9 inches. inches. D from A is E from A is 5 inches. F from A is 6 inches. G from A is 23 inches. H from A is 34 incfles. I from A is 5 inches. Square out lines from A, J from from
the center of N-Q. 1
Front
I
is
8 from 7 is }4 inches. 9 is the center of T-I. 10 from 9 is 7 inches.
from N to Q. from T to through S as represented.
I
23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
is
inside
is
a button.
31
is
the edge of lining
23
is
the position
is
the place for two holes.
is
the place for
is
the inside elastic loop.
is
a tab.
is
double cloth
is
pocket. ela.stic
inside
thigh
fastening.
for knee.
loop.
is
shown by
saddle.
dash-line.
JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER
Apron Riding
AND CUTTER
Skirt
299
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
300
Hints on
One
most convenient and becoming of the
of the
Apron Riding
One
Skirt.
and, altogether,
Making Apron Riding
easy to make,
is
it
position of
is
it
comfortable
safety riding
much on
cut very
Skirts
skirts
the
is
principle,
the trouser
wear, as well as safe in case
for
of accident.
The shaded The main thing is
portion at 27
when
the position of knee
is
room
to secure plenty of
for the
For
the saddle, and to keep the lap portion short and hollow.
seam
the apron
is
finished.
knee when the wearer
in
is
shaped
that reason a
put from 5 through 6 to R.
is
The
O, and you
Figure 11 joins point
11
will find
the other half of cut, and both have slightly round edges.
somewhat longer than These two edges, when
together, produce a condiserable cavity into which the knee fits. The fulness produced by extra length of side 11 must be sewn on and afterwards pressed back
sewn
from outer edge, and so help
to give
The
shape there.
large vees
on underside
will
by
the
caused
be sewn with tapering effect towards 17, and the surplus material
downwards over
closing up of these cuts be distributed by the iron
from
I
down raw edge
portion
have
of course,
all
the shape given
it
shaped part from
buttons put on a broad elastic tab,
on the lap
front waist
way
is
The turned
in
arrangement, where
if
Z-W. made up
fixed firmly
shown
two
with
on
at 24,
placquet-hole
bound and
a
shown edges
and
joins 11
put upon those positions shall not is
merely cut
with a
in
down and
strip of lining.
pocket put at
cut
close to lap
and where
W
and
holes,
below
a linen stay just
A
split
5
in
:
the material.
piped with a piece of the
same
facing can be put on the underside
as in the ordinary skirt;
in
joins
the placquet
finished
in
28 on diagram.
11-T and Y-Z
stitched.
If
you
with the lining before you
edge;
lining
5-b, 6-1 1-R,
at
linen,
or
of opening,
is
O
which goes
That
must be placed, and those points must be well tacked through the
The
this
This tab
portion.
or seat
firm
this
so fhat the strain
material,
is
had
the
J,
consequence of linen stays
which
is
rule
a
of material
that the cloth has
J-K-4-M-0,
machine
by
As
bottom behind T.
to
line 31,
and the piece of cloth which joins the underside
The
down
stitched
concerned.
is
seam with the same piece
lined to just cover the
is
either
seam
so far as the side
through the front, as per dot and dash must,
17.
The lines V-W and J-L are the seat-seam when the apron is on, and that to E is the side seam. These seams will be sewn in the ordinary manner
and pressed open, the opened seam being felled
line
the cloth of apron
stitch is
are stayed with a strip of linen or staytape,
line the
front of skirt the edge
the edge
down;
if
not,
11-T
both can
be
will
of melton or other firm edge material.
then
be faced
felled
raw
JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER
the leg,
301
O
^Vhen will be
AND CUTTER
the flap portion L - J is fa'itened up on 24, the leg of the rider through the circle so formed, and so the apron fits cleanly and firmly round wheter the wearer be on horseback or on foot, just as we see fitting
it
round the knee on
inset
loops of different shape but such
is
comprehend those loops
You
notice on
will
is
seen
at
and caught
;
29
at
at
29
made of inch fastened to a linen stay placed underneath the front in the outer edge, and felled round its inner edge to skirt. 29 is
about 8 inches long, fastened
is
both ends, and
at
fit
into
it,
and,
left
as
somewhat you
will
bottom and about two-thirds the distance down from 11
somewhere about is
a
%
25 of the large diagram; they are
that the foot of rider can easily
25
two
diagram
that
these appear to be on the outside of skirt in that diagram not the case; they are shown there with a view of aiding you to the.r position whe:i the wearer is in the saddle. The true position of
or 1 inch elastic; that lining
diagram point 32.
one-third the length of front
double piece of sim.lar
clastic
to
seam up from
fastened to a linen
loose in canter,
note,
.stay
T, the
is
so
placed with
that
its
to
say,
bottom of
skirt!
felled
is
on
the under
side;
the double end of loop reaches nearly to the bottom, say wi-hin or at most 4 inches of bottom; the looped portion should be about 6 or 7 inches long, and be strongly secured to skirt; into these loops the feet of the rider can be thrust at will, and be easily removed in case of necessity-. About 29 you notice a cloth tab, or you may put an elasttic tab there, and, on the whole, we would advise that as the better plan. Well ,<
this tab
with the object of enabling the wearer of the apron that part of apron
of waist euts is
walking.
;
this
While
when
ofl the
fitted
there
to
fasten
up
at back of waist, where a button should be placed at the end has the effect of hiding the upper parts of legs when the wearer on the horse the skirt or apron appears as we show it at small
diagram, only the single portion comes against the side of the horse. The waust should be finished thinly, a;id with a neath ba.id put at all or the top of skirt turned in a.id stitched rou.id.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
is
horse
if
band
be
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
302
Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns
In the cutting of riding skirts
is
it
nec-
essary to edjust the pattern to the length, the size of waist,
and the
In altering the in
mind
to bear
that this will also effect the distance
from the waist the
we have
to the
pommel,
knee that goes
that the
so
length
over
must
be
increased half above the knee and half below.
For
instance,
skirt has to
be
out the pattern
we
also
open
suppose the length of the
we open
increased 2 inches, at
it
M M
out at
P P
making corrections
we want
waist
follow, seat
it
seams K, waist are
this
G,
I,
comes
made
this
last,
as
is
F.
This
is
extra
adjust-
two may
necessarily of
the
at the
four
size
done equally being
done,
the
and the variations necessary
per dot and dash
endeavoring to take out there
the
of
size
the
for the
dos not
best to edjust
is
and
first,
amount, but
that
to the seat,
go together, though
the
for
mind
to bear in
ment necessary
size of the seat.
length
In
larger
prominence
line,
always
vees
where
to provide for,
and
half that quantity,
vice ver.-a.
or 1 inch.
we
For the underside
out 1 inch at
N
and
1
inch
at
produce the proper adjustment
seam and
also at the seat-seam,
open
O; at
K
it
this will
the
L.
side
The
outline used on this
an apron riding
and successful.
skirt
that
is
diagram both
is
of
popular
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns
303
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
304
Ride Astride Skirt
This diagram will produce a pattern to measuring 24 inches waist, 40
a lady
fit
add
to or take
from the
off
from I is 5' 2 inches. from J is 5 inches. from K is 36'''s inches. Connect points as represented and
U
1
V
inches hips, 39 inches side length. Variations may be made as follows In length
T
finish
the backpart.
bottom. size of waist, alter the
In
V-s
at the waist,
as the waist
smaller or larger.
is
In the size
making
In
of hips, alter
at
sideseam.
variations for the side
be careful
to
the
of
size
enlarging or reducing them
make
hips,
of
the size of waist correct.
Frontpart
A
to B and Draw^ a stright line from measnre 4 '4 inches. Square line from to 7
2
measure from A 3 \5%, to 4 20'2.
and
5:^8. to
6 30 /^, to 7 3t) from points 1,2,
to
Instruction for Drafting
L from
Backpart
A
Draw^ a straight line from to B and measure 4 ,'4 inches. Square line from
A
1
K
to
3I/4,
to
1
and measure from E 4%, to F 6J/2.
to 1
3,
to J 20/8, to
down from
Square
and L from M from N from O from P from Q from J
R
from S from
K
C D
is
7' 2
inches.
is
2}/-2
inches.
is
2 y inches. '
E E
is
5 '4 inches.
F
is
1'4 inches.
is
I
j's
inches.
G is 8 inch, G is 4's! inches. ,'
to
to
G
Ib'ji^
C \, 8,
to
to
H
D
10^
inches.
C, D, E, F, G,
K.
A
A
H,
I,
A
1
A
8 from 9 from 10 from 1 1
12
13 14 15
is
7' 2
to
/-.s,
3,
4,
5,
6 and
to
5 23^.
inches. Square
down
7.
inches.
inches.
is
2
2
is
1^8 inches.
3
is
3 '8 inches.
from 3 from 4 from 5 fiom 6 from 7
is
'8
7;,'
1
/'4
I
I
to
8
inches.
is
3 '8 inches.
is
5
inches. inches.
is
15;' 8
is
34/4 inches.
Connect points as represented and
finish
the frontpart.
W-X-Y-Z
is an 8 inch square gusset. This ride astride skirt is cut in five parts two fronts, two backs, and an 8 inch :
square gusset. Opening side
seam and
is
in this is a
arranged pocket
at
left
inserted.
One-Quarter inch seam are allowed.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Ride Astride Skirt
305
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
306
Making Ride Astride
Skirts
In cutting from the pattern, a reduced model of which
you
make what
will
measurement
variations in
useful in case extra width or length
above
AA
the balance-marks are those lines indicated by
This diagram represents the front and back
and here we have
pieces,
be
all,
pjints
various
at
before the reader,
here placed
and leave on what
required here or there;
is
balance-marks, either by nicks, or by placing mark-threads
more importance than
is
necessary,
are
inlays will be
sure to locate
instead.
and
BB
in
illustrated the
all
Perhaps of
Diagram 1. marking of
and balance-marks; and, as just mentioned, the lines AA and BB are two highly important the former defines the amount of material or spring which is allowed
inlays
points for consideration:
cause the skirt, when the wearer is off the horse, to fall in graceful folds or plaits and which, during the act of riding, affords sufficient room to permit of ease or comfort without in any way marring the freedom of action which is so essential to the rider while on horseback. in order to
The rider
BB, on the
line of mark-threads,
astride the horse,
is
and follows the
the
defines
front piece,
lap-cut,
C, through the knee
front of skirt
point,
DD,
when
the
right to bottom.
We
cannot lay too much stress on the importance of care in putting the pieces together, sewing the seams; unless these are properly put together you will experience all kinds of trouble, and the wearer of the skirt will never experience that comfort she has a right to expect
and
in
from the competent
tailor.
two seams with which we slia'l deal are the lep-cut, C, and the knee-cut, DD. During the operations of baisting, seaming and pressing these cuts, it is essential you should bear function they have to perform. in mind the reason they have been provided, and the special
The
The
fir.st
lap-cut in
styles of riding
all
trains,
during the act of riding; therefore and,
ing up,
The material at
addition to that,
in
one place and
marked with a sewn together,
cross,
we
as
C,
illustrate
at
it
a
of loose material
lot
whole process of mak-
provtded with the double object of clearing away loose looseness
or is
Diagram
will
another; thus the part of diagram
at
the leg-seam of 2,
particular
this
and when
prominence or length
a considerable
now form
This will
star.
being sewn,
in the act of
just
is
to give length
both front and back,
the point indicated by the
order to obviate
in
should be kept thin there.
it
on the other hand,
kne-cut,
provided,
is
requires to be kept short during the
it
a receptacle
for the knee,
is
DD
given
1 is
at
while the leg cut,
shorten and keep clean, or, in other words,
free
from loose-
ness in that part of the front.
The the hip,
other waist-cuts are also put there with a double object: secondly, to obviate the necessity for a lot of drawing
and.
Reference of diagram 2 at
its
will
downwards over Just above
gether a
when
this
We
at the crutch.
Diagram notch
at
,^.
1,
you
of the cut, C, has a tapering off must be general, and when pressing bottom with the iron, so as to throw
will notice
balance-marks, which should be kept to-
F is the linen stay to strengthen placquethole. be left on when cutting out or sewn on afterwards.
which can to
either
what
is,
perhaps, the most important item in the
the insertion of the piece
You
On
will notice a
shown
series of
at
Diagram
notches in the
3.
The
little
the front and back halves of skirt you will find
seat-seam,
seam well open.
o\'er
line.
the round of seat.
EE, on Diagram
come, now, viz.,
spring
feature
the seams are being joined.
facing of cloth
of skirt,
to afford
along the waist
show you how the sewing
lower end. In sewing the other waist cut
the seams open be sure you disperse the loose material at it
first,
in
a
double one
at front or
lap-seam.
Sew
this
make-up
object of this
square
of
cloth
is
G
being
of this style to give spring
represented by
notches to correspond, a single piece in
strongly and press the
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Diagrams 4 and joined
we
5
show
obtain a considerable
these notches placed
amount
In the absence of a lining at crutch,
down
keep them from
to
Diagram
L
leg seam,
5
togethet,
An
shows the
front
being the piece shown
and should be well worked out
The
either case,
in
these riding skirts.
The
a
is
that
to give
of diagram
be
to
show n
M
at
3 Htting e.xactly those
Diagram
shape and freedom
felled
on front
This gives the position
5
at the
be sure not to
make
the waist
measure over
or the tight;
part,
top turned a
placquet can be finished of? as in the case of the ordinary
The
turn~up
at
bottom
looseness of material there well shrunk before the upturn
done by
four sides are
while
for
the
piece of linen might be felled on there.
patent socket fasteners can be used.
this
ail
insertion.
the seams of the piece inserted ought
waist can be finished off with an ordinary band,
m
its
and back pieces joined together at what might be called the at diagram 3, sewn to one-half of the train H I shows the
important point for consideration
purpose of strengthening,
when
that
rising or doubling over.
same piece sewn into the front of skirt only. At J and K, diagram 5, we have the notches and back pieces shown at Diagram 1 and 2. of knee,
so
of stride in consequence of
307
is
little
in a.id st.tclied;
freedom
skirt;
is
preferable
hooks and eyes or
should be well pressed,
fastened along
its
and any upper edge; whether
felling the cloth or by machine stitching through the outs.de of skirt, thought advisable, the front of skirt can be lined through, and the other seams felled down, or you may dispense with the linings and treat all seams by felling; indeed, where tne skirt is made from firm edge material this latter pla.i is the best. is
If
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
308
Riding Coat By
Direct Short
Measure System
No Seams (How
to take
measurement
allowed
to this
system see page 292.)
Measures Around Bust 40 inches. Around Waist 26 inches. Around Hips 4 inches.
Front shoulder 12/4 inches. Front waist length 23 Jo inches. Bust depth 5 inches. Side waist length 21*4 inches. Across Chest 5 inches. Across Bust 19 inches. Sleeve length 8 inches.
1
1
Back scye depth 7/4 inches. Back waist length 5 1 2 inches. Across back 4 inches. Over shoulder 16*4 inches. 1
1
1
1
2
Draw
to 5, a straight line from is the back scye depth, in this case from 7/4 inches. 1
I
the back waist length, in this case 334 inches.
3 from I
4 from
I
is
3
is
5 from 2 6 from 2
6 inches.
the full length, in this case 44 in. the half across back, and '4 inch more, in this case 7/4 inches. 7 from 2 is '4 full bust measure plus '2 inch, in this case 10' 2 inches. 9 from 2 is the half around bust measure and inch more, in this case 21 inches. 8 from 9 is the average chest measure, consisting of half across Chest measure (7 '2) and halt across Bust measure (9' 2) added together and divided in half, in th.s case 8' 2 in. is
is
I
10 from 9 1 1 is
is
one-quarter of line 2-9.
located by drawing a square
from 7. 12 from
I
is
line
down
Vx full Bust measure, in this case
2/2 inches.
13 from 12 is '4 inch on line squared up from 12. 14 from 6 is inch less than the Back Scyedepth measure, in this case 6 '4 inches. 15 from 4 is 3^2 inch. 16 from 3 is inch. 17 is located by drawing a line from to 16. 18 is about the center of 13-1 5. 19 from 8 IS the front should ar measure less to 12. the back neck from 20 from 8 is the over shoulder measure less the width from 7 to 18. 2 1 from 19 is '4 inch less than 13-15. 22 from 8 is '2 inches. 23 from 19 is the same as 1-12. 24 from 23 is the same as 1-12. 25 from 19 is the front waist length measure less the back neck from 1 to 12. 26 from 19 is the bust depth measure less the width of back neck from 1 to 12. 27 from 19 is the side waist length measure less the back neck from 1 to 12. 28 from 16 is one-sixth part of 7-1 7. 29 from 15 is 2' 2 inches. 30 is located by drawing a curved line from 29 to 28 as represented. 31 is located by dravifing a square line down from 28. I
1
I
1
I
I
1
1
32 33 34 35 36 37 38
from from from from is is is
28
is
31
is
27 27
is
inch. '4 inch. '4 inch. '4 inch.
1
is
the half-way from 7 to 30. the half-way from 32 to 34. located by drawing a line
through 37. 39 from 37 is 40 from 37 is 41 from 38 is 42 from 38 is
36
inch. inch. '4 inch. '4 inch. 2 inch. 1 inch. 2 inches. '/i
''2
43 from 1 is 44 from 1 is 45 from 25 is 46 is located by drawing '
1
1
through 45. 47 from 26 is
48
from
1
'
a
line
from 9
inches.
2
located by drawing a line from 47 parallel with line 9-46. 49 from 48 is one-third of the front waist supis
ression.
50 from 49
is
51 from 47
is
the front waist supression. the same length as 47-49. 52 is located by drawing a line from 49 parallel with line 45-46. 53 is located by drawing a line from 51 parallel
with line
7-1
1.
by drawing a line from the is located middle 3-16 through point 4. 55 is located by a square line down from 28. 56 is located by drawing a line from the middle of 28-32 through point 33 and is the same length from 32 as 28-55. 57 is located by drawing a line from 37
54
through 41.
58
located b> drawing a line from 37 through is the same length from 39 as 40-5 7. by drawing a line from 27 is located
is
42 and
59
through 43. located by drawing a line from 2 7 through is the same length from 35 as 34-59. 61 is located by connecting the line 51-53,
60 is
44 and
62 from 61 63 from 49 64 from 19
Add
inch.
is
'4
is
the
is
1
same length
as 51-62
inch.
for single
breasted button stand, and
shape lapel and bottom as represented.
From centre line to tabe make 6 inches more than from centre line to button, or 10 inches as shown.
Si^B^m£BSmj^ CUTTER Riding Coat
23
64 19
309
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
310
Riding Coat By
As
(How
Measure System Seams are allowed
Direct Short inch
measurement
to take
to this
system see page 292.)
Measures Around Bust 40 inches. Around Waist 26 inches. Around Hips 4 inches.
Front shoulder 2 '4 inches. Front waist length 231 j inches. Bust depth 5 inches. Side w^aist length 21*4 inches. Across Chest 3 inches. Across Bust 19 inches. 8 inches. Sleeve length 1
1
1
Back scye depth 7'4 inches. Back waist length 5 j inches. Across back 4 inches. '
1
1
1
Over shoulder 16*4
inches.
1
To A, Square both w^ays from A as represented. B from A is the Scye depth measure, in this
C
case 7/4 inches. from is the waist length case 5 2 inches.
A
measure,
in this
D
from C is 6 inches. Square out lines from B, C and D. E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 inches, in this case 24 inches, F is the center between B and E. G is the center between E and F. H from B is the acros back measure, in this inches.
7
from A is 5 _ inches. J from is 2 '4 inches on line squared out from K from A is the half E-G, in this case 3 inches, L IS located by a line squared out from K. inch. from H is N from is 's inch less than B from A on line squared out from M, in this case 6',x in. O from N is 2 inch on line drawn from L through N. I
'
I
1.
M
I
M
'
P
is the centtr of M-N, is the average chest measure, consisting of half acro33 Chest ( 7 ^ ) and half across BuÂťt (9' 2) added together and divided in half (8 '2) plus '4 inch, in this case 9/4 in. Front shoulder is located by applying the
S from E
'
R
A
R
to plus '4 to L and continued from inches, in this case 22 '2 inches. 2 is located on line squared down from E by aspplying the Front waist length measure to L and continued from to 2 from inch, in this case 24'2 inches. plus 1
A
1
case
Draft
measure from A to L and continued from S to R plus '4 inches, in this case 12 '4
1
R
I
3 from
C
is
4 from 5 from 6 from
D
is
M
inch.
1
inch. inch. 6 inches. '4
is
5 is
7 from 3
'2 inches.
I
is
â&#x20AC;˘'4
8 IS located by shaping from 6 9 from 4 is 6 '4 inches. 10 from 7 is /2 inch.
to
7.
1 1 from 9 is 2 inches. 12 from F is '4 inch. 13 from is 2 inch. 14 from 3 is 3 inches. inch. 15 from 3 is 16 from 13 is JU inch. 17 from 2 is 2 inches. 18 is located on line squared down from G by applying the Bust depth measure from A to L and continued from R to 18 plus '
1
1
I
',s
inches, in thi.s case 16*4 inches. 18 is 1/2 inches. 20 is located byline drawn from 19 parallel with line E- 7. 21 IS located by ine drawn from 9 parallel with line E- 7 1
'4
19 from
1
1
1
1
plus 4 IS 13' 2 inches. over shoulder is located by applying the measure from B to the middle of the back shoulder L-O and continued froin S to F plus 4 inches, in this case 17 2 inches, from R is '^ longer than L-O on line drawn from R through 1 ihis \j inch is to be taken off at point R as represanted. 1
T
1
U
;
V from S
is
2 inches.
\V from R
is
X
is
from
W
this case 3
Y
is
Z
is
2 inch( '4 '4
inch
s.
more than
inches. a line squared a liee squared
K
from A,
in
located by down from E. located by down from F. 1 is located on line squared down from F by applying the Side vi^aist length measure
22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
from 20 is '/2 inch, from 2 is 'x inch. from 22 ii 3 inches. from 19 ii the same length ai 22 from 9. from li is 3 inches. trom A is the full length desired. is located on line squrred out from 27. is located on line squared out from 2 7. from 29 is 1 '4 inches. 31 from 21 is iKe same length as 30 from 15. 32 is about 16 inches below the waist line. 33 from 32 IS about 9 inches. 1
1
Allow for a single-breasted button ftand stand 2 inches, and for a vent at the back about 2-3 inches, and finish the draft as represented.
1
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Riding Coat By
Direct Short /!s
Measure System
inch Seams are allowed
31
:
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
312
Pantaloon Skirt
The Pantaloon
or
Harem
consists
Skirt
and outside skirt. Both garments may be made from the same mateof the divided hose
although the divided part made from a thinner stuff.
The
outside
skirt
with
illustrated
is
A
is the nevv^est diagram outdoor walking skirt.
Diagram
frequently
is
rial,
of ladies
style
5-12 should be balance
13 from
out
take
w^aist;
the
7
half distance
is
of
7-8,
1
}4
inches.
Shape fork as represented. 14 from 12 is the side length 42 Shape bottom as represented.
inches.
Underpart
Hose
of Divided
'4
V-s as represented.
in
15 from 10
or Pantaloon
16
Measures
is
I'o inches,
is
located by drawing
a
line
from
14
through 5 and is the same length as 14-12. > inch. 1 7 from 5 is 18 from 7 is 3 inches on line drawn from 8 through 7. 17-18 should be 34 waist take out the balance in V-s as represented. I
'
Side length 42 inches
Waist 24 inches Hips 40 inches
1
Rise
2 inches
1
I
;
Forepart
Draw
1
a straight line from
2 from 3 from more,
Hip
19 from 8
to 4.
1
6 inches always.
1
is
the
1
is
the Rise measure and 2 inches
line
4 from
is
I
the side length 42 inches.
Square out
lines
9-19
from
1
,
2,
3,
43-2
/8
Hip measure
less
1
2
is
The diagram marked B shows yg
5
inches.
5
inches.
-
7
is
and
inch more, 3 inches.
located by drawing 1
0.
a
line
from
that the
top of the forepart has been reduced 3 inches. The underpart, diagram C shows the
sideseam or at the is 12*2 inches opening and the depth at the fork is 3 inches. The bearer is shaped as shown on the diagram, and is sewn with sideseam of forepart the underpart forms the fall at the back or, in other vk^ords, the backpart of a lady's divided skirt is the reverse of a man's bearer
7 is the half distance of 3
through
seams.
inch,
9 is located by squaring down from 8. 10 from 6 is J4 Hip measure, 10 inches. 1 1 from 9 is ''2 Hip measure, 20 inches. 12
as 9-8.
as represented.
Allovkf for all
inches.
Hip measure, 7 from 3 is % Hip measure, Connect points 5-6-7. /<>
same length
the
The Bearers is
I
6 from 2
8 from
is
4 as rep-
resented.
5 from
4 inches.
Shape fork
4 inches.
1
is
Connect points 9-19.
;
1
I
pair of whole-fall trousers.
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Pantaloon Skirt
313
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
314
Ladies Riding Breeches Measures Side length 40 inches, Rise (from waist to seat of chair) 12 inches, Leg length (difference between side length and ris8) 28 inches. Full length as desired, say 36 inches, Waist 24 5 inches. Small knee 3 inches. Calf 5 inches. Bottom (at inches. Seat 42 inches, Knee the full length of breeches) 12 inches. (Measurement of Knee, Small knee. Calf and Bottom are taken by the lady herself.) 1
1
1
To Draft Forepart
Draw a line from 2 to 3. 4 from 3 is s full waist measure '
A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Rise measure, in this case Square out from B as represented. from B is 14. full seat measure, ii
C
waist masure plus s inch, in this case 3' 4 inches. Form the dart about 4 inches deep. Finish the forepart as represented.
5 from 2
2 inches.
1
case
D
10'
from B
this
is
'
full
;{
measure
seat
is
H
'
D-H-G
K
L
1
M
K and from
by drawing a
line
from
1
through
longer.
L
is the half leg length measure, less inch, in this case 3 inches.
I
1
M
N
from IS 2' J inches. from N is 3'^ inches. from about the middle of the waist
O P
A-F down
the full length desired inch, in this case 37 inches.
I
Q
from
M
is
'4
is
Knee measure,
line
plus
in this case
R
from N is '4 Small knee mea.sure, in this case 3'4 inches. is Calf measure, in this case S from
O
3
'4
'
inches.
from P
is
Bottom measure,
'
in this
case
3 inches.
U
from
M
Kne
is
rneasure
inches, in this case 2 inches.
V
from P
is
4
Bottom
inches, in this case
W X Y
is is is
6 from
G
is
inch.
I
Draw a line from D through 6 and longer. Sweep out from 2 pivoting at U. located be a line squared out from line to a point on line sweeed from point 2, w^here it meets point 8. 8 from 7 is inch more, than 3 from 2, in this case 9/4 inches.
7
is
D-6
1
9 from P is inch. 10 is located by a line squared out from I
9.
is located by a line squared out from 9. '4 inches. 12 from D is 13 from 2 is /4 inch. 14 from Q is 'i^ inch. 15 from R is '/i inch. 16 from R is '2 inch. '4 inches. 17 from 10 is 18 from is 2'-o inches. 19 is located by measuring the knee measure plus inch from Q to U and 4 to
1 1
1
1
measure '4
less
inches.
located by drawing a line from located by drawing a line from the center on line drawn from
from Y is 1 inch. from B is 1 2 inch. 2 from A is Vi:.' of the
U to V. U to V. U to B.
Z
1
in this case 2 inches.
3 from F
is
'K
inch.
1
1
3*4 inches.
T
3<t
1
J.
located
is
34
Undsrpart
'
G
from
full
'
plu
14'4 inches. the center of B-D less s in this case 7 inches. F is located by a line squared up from C. in this from C is the same as E fror case 7 inches. '4 inch, from C is the half of C-D plus in this case 2 s inches. as represented. Shape Square both w^ays from E as represented. I from E is 3 inches. J from E is 9 inches. inch on line squared out from J is
from B
is
inches.
2
inch, in this case
E
plus
inch, in this case 3'4 inches.
1
19,
20
1
case 16 inches.
in this
located by measuring the small knee 1 inch from R to and 5 to 20, in this case 14 inches. 21 is located by measuring the Calf measand 6 to ure plus inch from S to in this case 16 inches. 2 22 is located by measuring the bottom and measure plus 3 inches from T to 17 to 22, in this case 15 inches. IS
W
mesure plus
X
I
1
waist measure,
1
,
V
23 24 25 26 27
from from from from from
9 9
N
is
1
is
1
is
19 is 8 is
'
inch. inch. IJ/4 inches. 1 inch. s
full
w^aist
measure plus
/i
inch, in this case 3'4 inches.
28 from
/s full waist measure plus inch, in this case 3 '4 inches. 29 from 7 is !4 inch. 7
is
%
Allow for button stand 1 2 inches outside of 26-22. Finish the underpart as represented. One-Quarter inch seams are allowed. '
full
i
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Ladies Riding Breeches
315
THE AM ERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
316
Leggings Measurement: Small knee
13 mches, Calf
15 inches, Length (No seams or turnings are allowed.)
A. Square both ways from A as represnted. B from A is the length, in this case 13'/^ in.
C
Line A-B is the front center of leg." from A is 3 inches. Square out lines from B and C as rep-
resented.
D
from
A
the half Small knee measure, 6'j inches. E from C is the half Calf measure, in this case 7' J inches. F is located by a line squared down from B. Curve back line D, E and 3^^ inch inside F as represented. from B is J-o inches. from is 3 inches for turn over. I from is 3 inches for turn over. is
this case
in
G H
1
G A
Curve
line of
bottom from
'4
F through G, towards H. Curve
The
line 1-H.
button stand position is shown by inch inside the front center
heavy line line A-B. a
inch inside
1
Mark holes and buttons shown on the diagram. Curve the top
in
the position
line in the direction suggested.
Gaiters Measurement: Length
fje.ght of Instep 3 14', inches, Small
inches, Instep to Heel 6 inches. Heel to Front 8 inches. knee 12 inches. Calf 13 inches. Ankle 8 inches. '4
(No seams, or turnings A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Length measure, in thi; case
C
D E
14'
inches. 3 inches. the Height of Instep in this case 3 '4 inches. from is inch.
from A from B
.
is is
D
measure
I
Square out lines from B, C anj E as represented. is the half Small knf measure. in this case 6 inches. from C is the half Calf measure thi case 6' J inches.
F from A
G
H
from E is the half Ankle measure, in this case 4 inches. I from D is the Instep to Heel measure, in this case 6 inches. J from I is the Heel to Front measure, in this case 8 inches. from J is inch on line squared out from
K
1
Draw Form
L
is
K
a line from to D. outline as represented. the center of E-H.
J.
Square both ways from L as represented edge of button stand.
tor the
in,
allowed.)
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
317
PART NINE
PRACTICAL TAILORING In dealing with the that
we have
the
making up of
we must
coats
ladies'
prominence of the bust
take into
consideration
the waist to define in varied
to clothe,
the hips to drape in graceful lines consonant with fashion's fleeting eccentricities,
may
3ur clients
coats are made,
may
the seams
The
is
Insert pockets,
lay fair.
canvas
in
fastened to dart-seam. vas
inlays,
attention
given to
is
shoulders
The
put through shoulders,
the
order
in
which
from
materials
shoulders,
a. id
position of pockets,
of forepart needs to be shrunk,
may
and
order that
in
the
that
be met.
Begin the thread-marking \xaist
special
and also the manipulation of seams
anatomical requirements
and
fact
be up to date.
In order to obtain these results, ladies'
the
degrees,
is
the
a. id
and
on the
etc.
w
b as,
a straight
ith
canvas should be shrunk before insertion.
and should be padded on
The
hollow of sidebody
keeping bala.ice marks
front dart,
baist
best put in
burtons,
strained out at these parts in order that
i.ilays
An
fair.
do.vn
piece
under ca.ivai racher easy.
to
fronts
extra piece of bias can-
This
e.xtra
canvas should on no account be stitched on by the machine.
Both canvases through shoulders are slashed and vedged alternately in order that a
shapely shoulder
the under canvas it
is
is
may be
Pad
\\'hen coat
seamed through shoulders, which
arranged to be well on bias
close.
obtained.
lapels to a
nice curl.
at
the scye.
A
assists
bridle
Steady fronts with
is
in
of the
at
shoulder
the shap-ng
which
sta.\tape,
is
scye,
of the shoulder,
put across crease-row
is
and
seam over shoulder
and
neatly felled on.
kept
stjle,
and fairly
and press
out carefully. Baist
The at that
part,
on
facings,
allowing plenty of length to linings, ease
lining of tight-fitting coats require
and
the.i
more length
that
shoulders, etc.
in
waist
on account of the suppression
the prominence of hips
Fasten facings to canvas up front dart and
The
in
waist of panel backs
is
best
shrunk
fell
to
linings neatl" in.
auay
clear
the
loose
material
formed
at
part.
The
use of wadding should be avoided as
much
as
possible
thinness and neatness are the prevailing features of ladies' tailoring.
on
making
ladies'
coats;
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
318
It
is
to stretch
always well to take the under collar from the bias of the cloth, as
and shrink
when
than
it
the form has introduced.
The
The
cut in any other way.
top collar
from the
best cut
is
under
collar
is
much
is
it
easier
which
the part in
with the center of the back
straight,
placed on the double edge; this avoids a seam, and also provides the stripes running in an effective
Once
manner.
the form has been
get the top collar to
In matter of putting
known
much
as the
crooked cut
longer collar
endeavor
to describe the
kept slightly short
The
a
just
moderate
The
is
For
cut.
and
made up in
which
rule
a
is
as thin
as
followed
is
For
collar
to
difficult
possible.
When
and
is
cut
We
a
will
put on
collar should be
and
of the gorge,
the best
all
what
cut; straight
a
repuired
is
hollow
the in
harmony with hindarm-;eam.
classes of trade.
finished with a vent at the
Baist
piece
a
of
fine
canvas
cuff.
stitch
selection of buttons forms another interesting
feature
of
some
coats,
ladies'
stsles
either plain or fancy makes.
always best to study in the
they are included
in
of
style
moderate cut shoulder the
a
shoutd be fulled on
it
turn over facing and serge along,
having large buttons, It
seldom very
is
it
depends very largely upon the
collar
This
front.
sleeves require to be
cuff,
the under collar
whilst for a crooked cut a shorter
be sure of get run of cuff
through
in
very different from the straight cut of neck.
short across the back neck,
slightly
cuffs
on the is
required,
is
obtained
properly.
fit
purpose garment
the
ornamental
of
features
is
ladies'
intended for before
and
coats,
buttons;
selecting
harmonise with the
must
other parts.
when
Ladies' coats repuire special care
no account must a
little
parts
moisture,
press thoroughly,
iron to rag. is
What
the best plan to
The
be "'boiled".
a ladies coat
and using
is
a
It
pressing. is
Very
water must be used,
little
of
best to use a piece
good hot iron; press edges
from
inside
if
linen,
remove the
linings of ladies'
tailors
gloss
in
a
lightly
"half-damp-rag", together with the use of
the
damping
off
These
lining
or of
must be touched
on
all
other
applying
small iron,
a
oat.
of a ladies'
coats are mostly of fancy makes,
white or some other delicate color.
aid
possible,
then take a damp-rag well wrung out and remove gloss by
termed by
for
and by applying
silk,
a;
and
little
a^
\er\-
often either
possible
with the
iron for fear of soiling or deslroying their finish.
When of the lining,
led;
by this
light
linings are used (white silk, for instance) the coat
being pressed and damped
means
it
is
kept clean.
off.
The
lining
is
made
up,
is
finished bar the insertion
baisted
in,
and
lightly
fel-
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
319
PART TEN
FITTING Have
a
method
for trjing on,
as
you
tn,-ing
on
just
have
system
a
This
cutting.
for
most
a
is
important feauture.
There
methods of
are different
Let us describe the two
most
poutar:
basaed
The under-arm-seam
in.
This snle of preparation
The
other style
is
often adopt
of the under-a m-seam, the sleeves,
is
put
we mean
by which
front edge,
tion
in.
This
is
this
point
machine, for there
when
a^
and
very
is
put
in,
baste,
which the
in
and usually one
sleeve drag.
or three try-ons are employed.
sewn with the exception row of sewing is put in the
the seams are
all
collar.
The
first
seamed on; the linings are basted over, all manipulawhere only one try-on is employed, as it is and finish to both fitter and wearer.
is
followed fit
word
Never attempt
of warning;
garments up by
to baste
time saved by so doing, and you cannot ensure the same accuracy
little
garment having been prepared
we
to order,
On adjusting
In this
the facing
utter a
when two
baste.
good idea of
will
the skeleton
basting by hand.
The up
is
we
is
canvas
the
shoulders,
the plan usually
certainly the best to give a
At
the plan to follow must, to a
basted on the outside to facilitate fitting and prevent
is
the forward
is
there
First,
various seams are basted and turned on one side; is
and
garment,
a
be governed by ciscumstances.
large extent,
her arri\al the
it
at
for
fitting,
examined
and
to
see
if
it
is
being
made
await the wearer with confidence. first
done
thing to be
the top of back-neck,
is
to
garment
get the
and arranging the
underw ear so
on,
properl\-
that there
is
carefully
no accumulation
of materiol round the scye. This being done, bring the fronts well over, but before joining
edges together, notice the general hang of the front, is
the front shoulder
too long;
is
there
if
garment. is
a
If
there
is
a
the
tendency to drop away
draggmg from the neck downwards, the
in
front
too short; both of which effect should be recitified by rippiag the sleeves out and the shoulders,
and arranging
Now
the balance so that
it
in
is
harmony with
and pinch them
the wearer's figure at shoulder-seam.
between the finger and thumb, aid pin the two foreparts together. This being done, make a mark with chalk down the front where the pins are. Also make a mark round the waist. This being done, proceed to examine take the
two
front edges
the va.ious points of the garme.it
The scye.
we
ajain,
4-The lower
waist.
have to note that
it
at
four points,
waist,
and
1-The top of back neck. 2-The back Next comes the sleeve, and with this width and balance. After the sleeves comes the front, the top of forepart at neck; the shoulder and front
four points.
part of the back.
the correct length,
is
we have
of scye; the front tematically,
proper sequence.
back may be done by locating
3-The back
and here,
i.i
together
viz.,
the lower part of the front.
then every part of the garment will
come under
If this
points are gone
examination.
over
sys-
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
320
marking
Fn
wrong, as sometimes there
some
combination
a
is
but a study
defects,
of
on, and to do this
is
it
not always easy to
It is
what
exactly
tell
alterations will give
of
usefull hints in this matter.
In the matter of trying-on skirts,
they are easier to
and length.
The
duty.
It
It
The
alter.
it
allways well to have
is
fitting
body
the
what she approves. the cutting,
in
and manipula-
fitting,
when
important that the garment should be carefully examined
is
it
to see that all the details are faithfully carried out
as
over hips,
fit
part of the fitter's
only a small
is
pleasing the wearer, and giving her
important that the greatest care should be taken
is
seams basted outside,
the
points to notice in fitting skirts are, balance or hang,
bear in mind that
well to
is
real art lies in
garment; also
tion of ed,
or to chalk the existence of a defect.
hesitate to use pins,
require patience and coolness.
fitter will
successfully the is
do not
alterations,
the garment should be adjusted to wearer's requirements while
possible,
If
finish-
according to instructions.
examining of a finished garment is quite as much the work of a master hand as any When "cocking" a job, a journeyman will soon sum up what a cutter is worth direction, and to what extent, if he is so inclined, he can take liberties.
The
of the others. in
that
at
once
A
master hand
that
is
it
first
what
state
to be very careful in
man
or inexperienced looks
then
at this,
take hold of a garment
will
not the
then
at that,
in
such a way that
in
it
an awkward way, as
future he has
that in
something
at
he were frightened of
if
he comes
else; then
in
the novice
Ftrst of all
it.
back again to the
does not examine any particular part carefully and methodically. In examining a garment there should be as much system used as
He
impress the tailor
will
it
examined and
that he has
he brings the job to be passed. Whilst, on the other hand
handle
will
way
job by a long
and
first
doing anything
so
else.
he on.
Begin
by examining one part carefully, then another, and so on until the garment is finished. I do not mean that every stitch should be carefully looked into: I think if there is a fair sewing it should be sufficient. Finding fault with every little thing is not examining a job. Finding fault is the easiest thing in
the world; everybody can do that; and there
cutter can find fault with
The
is
made
not a job
in the
ordinary
number of
perfection of a finished garment does not consist in the smallness or the
es there are in that
comprises those Firs of
garment, but
little
all
in
but what the
\\ay
he wants.
if
things
in the
thought and
which make
examining
a
a
work
skill that is
put
in
it
creating
in
stitch-
thing
a
that
of art.
garment, get hold of
it
in
such a way that you create an
impression
you know what you are about, and that your desire is not to find fault, but to see a work of art. First of all take the garment in your right hand, place your left hand in the left scye, and see how the front and sleeve hang; see that the canvas and linings are not in too short; that the sleeve hangs that
and examine the same
reverse the action on to the other side,
fair;
hands
in the
scye and see that the collar
on
is
fair;
the garment up, by getting hold of both sleeves at the back; to see that they run is
no
fulling
inside, al
and see
to the
part
that there
;
when
it
is
it
is
holding
then examine the run of the seams
no straining where they should be even, and that there Turn your attention to the strained.
that the linings are in long in the waist,
because
not
if
it
will
you are
satisfied
inspection place
it
with these points, and that the sewing
on
form and see how the general
a
placed excactly the
same on both
too long or too short, and
if
sides;
the collar
fit
all
that
prove detriment-
that they are both the
whether the is
collar
is
no drag or fulness when
it
should be clean.
should be, then,
same, with the
commands
of a fancy design,
is
and hang of the garment the
turn,
and trimming
according to instructions. See that the run of the smallest part of the waist is
then put both
back by
ought to have been
whether the sleeves are pitched properly, and plaits
at the.
fit.
When for final
even
is
on of one
as the other;
then have a look
is
is
fulness
is,
or
and whether carried
correct;
out
that there
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
321
PART ELEVEN
ALTERATIONS In marking alterations,
this succesfully,
the
what
as
wrong:,
is
do not
the garment should be
If possible,
some
there
is
fit
it
The
Alterations arise from
form.
errors
size
in
Defects show
them-
ways:
principally in three
selves
creases,
twists.
folds,
Creases arise from Folds
arise
back of material.
a
from an excess
material.
of
Tv\ists arise from bad work.
Creases Creases from neck-point to front
of
Diagram 1 are caused by an insuffidistance from neck to front of scye;
scye
)
(
cient
remedy;
let
out front neck
and
shoulder
shoulder-point, reducing the shoulder to
at
proper width
Creases
from
at
scye end.
at
side
of bust to hips;
the
(Diagram 2)
insufficient distance
arise
from prominence
remedy:
arm and reduce
under
out
let
waist to size
back
at
darts.
Crease from side to front 3
)
and
this
from the
small at
from
probably arises
a too long front shoulder;
if
so,
take
front neck and shoulder
neck-point; but let
(Diagram
caused by the front being to
the bottom,
if
it
is all
at
)fT
the
right at shoulder
out bottom of front.
Creases from top of forearm of sleeve to elbow at back
:
Take
off at the top of
the hindarm, and lengthen sleeve
This
is
at
cuff.
equal to adding on a piece at the
top of the forearm.
is
it
is
on,
not always easy to
defect.
a
and to do exactly
tell
of the chapter on
but a study
is
always well
to
have
the
seams
points to notice in fitting skirts are:
over the hips, and length.
in
It
of
existeiice
whilst
usefull hints in this matter.
as they are easier to alter.
and errors
or chalk the
requirements
combination of defects,
a
In the matter of trying-on skirts,
outside,
pins,
pitience and coolness.
will require
fitter
sometimes
alterations will give
hesitate to use
adjusted to wearers
baisted
balance
on or
the
hang,
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
322
These samples must
way they
the
and
run,
suffice to
the principle
illustrate
indicate a shortness
that creases
remedy them, more length must be given
to
the
in
they
direction
in
run.
Folds Folds arise from an excess of material
show an excess
horizontal folds
sleeve having several folds at the top of forearm
way
the opposite
in
;
remedy
the
which
to
an excess of width.
vertical folds
of length,
for this
run;
they
Take
those
the case of a
from
to take off a piece
is
the top of the forearm
Folds over the hips
upwards owing
:
This
an excess of length produced by the
is
to a tightness over the hips.
allow the garment to drop into
Sometimes
The remedy
garment
being
and
to let out at the hips,
is
forced
proper place.
its
from a shortness of
this defect arises
lining,
in
which case the
must
lining
lengthened, or else the jacket must be shortened, and the lining put in the necessary amount It
is
Folds around the neck; These arise from the lining or facings being put
shoulder.
The
slightly at the
shoulder point, but especially
The remedy
back
to shorten the
is
Fold from front of scye as the fold
seam, and take Fulness is
in
To
to narrow.
the facing out across the
let
facing should always be put in wider across the shoulders.
much
Folds across the back: These are caused by too
let
be
fuller.
always well to remember that the linings should be put in long over the waist.
remedy, hollow out gorge
ness,
will
this
is
in the at
to
back
dart,
front edge:
best
always relatively longer than the
way
remedy
to
order to reduce
in
This
is
length in the upper part of the back.
the upper part.
prominence of bust: This
The
V-shaped.
at
it
is
this
perhaps better to let out
is
described
under the arm
as
at
ful-
the side
to the size of waist.
caused by the front edge being cut round, and as the round
straight,
so
it
the cause of the fulness.
is
The remedy
is
to
out at the bottom of front and reduce the size of waist by either enlarging the dart or taking
out another dart.
Tight armholes may be to shallow, or they out the underarm-seam:
remedy
for the third
on back
anough
arise
may be
one
from three
The
the best
remedy
for the
as well as forepart,
as
inlays
are only
best
second one
to let out at shoulder end. left
It
is
may be too narrow,
they
different causes;
too tight on the top.
is
remedy to
for the
first
one
they is
may
to let
lower the armhole; and the best
not necessary
on the forepart
that
as a rule,
it
and
should be done that
is
quite
for the purpose.
Twisting Twisted seams are caused by careless work. the machine
has driven the top layer
only plan to rip the seams and sew
down, and
them
The
fulled
seams has not been properly
on the lower one.
so that they go together fairly.
To
baisted,
remedy
this
and the
PART TWELVE
SKETCHING
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
324
To
be able
cutter, tailor,
You money
to sketch is of great value to
salesman,
can
make
you as a manufacturer, designer,
connection with the womens' wear trade.
etc. in
yourself
more valuable and
that
means more succes and more
for you.
importance that each figure should be practiced diligently.
It is
vital
It is
well for
you
to
surround yourself with Fashion Magazines and
from them the various methods employed by the different
artists.
to
observe
THE AMERICA!^ DESIGNER AND CUTTER
4
325
326
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ABC
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ABC
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328
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
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330
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332
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334
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
INDEX Title
5
New Market
Preface
7
Inverness
9
Opera Cloak
Introduction
What
a Designer should know Ladies' Tailors Qualifications
System Good lines
Manipulation of Fronts and Backs
100-101
10
Vest
102-105
11
Stouts 106 Table of Proportionote Measurement for Stouts 107 Semi-Fitting French Seam for Stout 108-109
12 12 12
Womens' Garments to take
Measurement
Comparative Proportions for Normal
14-15
Wom-
ens' Sizes
Table of
Proportionate
17
Masurements
Women
Shirt Waist
110-111
Shirt waist with Side gore 112-113 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 114-115 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining with Side gore 116-117 Sleeve for Waist 118-119
PART ONE How
96-97 98-99
10
11
Contrasts Fashions Style
94-95
for 17
18-19 Systematic Outline 20-21 Tight-Fitting with one dart 22-23 Tight-Fitting with two darts Tight-Fitting back and Semi-Fitting front 24-25 26-27 B.ouse 28-29 Basque or Tunic Skirt Tight-Fitting Eton with one Dart 30-31 32-33 Tight-Fitting Eton with two Darts 34-35 Tig^it-Fitting Eton with one Side Gore 36-37 Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam Tight-Fitting French Seam with underarm 38-39 Gore 40-41 Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 42-43 Tight-Fitting 18 Gores 44-45 Tight-Fitti.ig 22 Gores Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front 46-47 48-49 Semi-Fitting with Dart in front Semi-Fitting French Seam 50-51 Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 52-53 Semi-Fitting Coat with underarm Gore 54-55 Sack Coat with Loose Front 56-57 58-59 Sack Coat with Shaped Front 60-61 How to make Shoulder-Dart 62-63 Loose Box Coat Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 64-65 66-67 Coat Sleeve Sleeve with fulness on toj) 68-69
One Piece Sleeves
120-123
Standing or Military Collar
124-125
Collars for waists
126-127
Yoke
128-129
Shield
128-129
Waist with Kimono Sleeves One Piece Butterfly Waist Waist with Raglan Sleeve
130-131
Measurement
134-135
Systematic Outline for Skirts
136-137
Two Gore
138-139
Skirt
Three and Four Gore Skirt Four Gore (Panel) Skirt Five Gore Skirt Six Gore Skirt Seven Gore Skirt Nine Goi-e Flare Skirt Eleven Gore Flounce Skirt Thirteen Gore Plaited Skirt
146-147
148-249 150-151
152-153 154-135
158-159
Skirt with fixed bottom wilth Skirts for Stouts
132-163
Princess Slip
166-167
160-161
ie4-lC5
PART TWO Misses'
Garments
Table of Proportionate Measureme^.ts for Misses' Sizes
17]
76-77
Capes
78-79
Yoke and Hood
80-81
Systematic Outline for Misses' Skirts Seven Gore Skirt
Cape Coat Cape with Kimono Sleeve Coat with Kimono Sleeve Raglan Coat Deep Armhole Coat
82-83
One
92-93
Piece Coat
144-145
Circular Skirt in Gores Princess Skirt
Collars
86-87
142-143
156-157
Sleeve
84-83
140-141
Circular Skirts
70-71 Bishop Sleeve One Piece Tight Sleeve 72-73 One Piece Tight Sleeve with middle seam 72-73 Collars and Lapels 74-75
68-fc9
132-133
for Skirts
Systematic Outline for Misses' Sizes Tight-Fitting French Seam Semi-Fitting-witting with Dart in Front Sack Coat with Loose Front Loose Box Coat Blouse
One Piece Sleeve
132-133
172-173
174-175 176-177
178-179 180-181
182-183 184-185 186-187 188-189
PART THREE Juniors'
Garments
88-89
Table of Proportionate Measurement for
90-91
Juniors' Sizes Semi-Fitting French
193
Seam
194-195
LTBRflRY OF CONGRESS
013 973 177 3
Loose Box Coat Blouse
1%-197
Misses'
198-199
Seam
Sleeve
200-201
Childrens' and Infants' Semi-Fitting
Five Gore Skirt Circular Skirt
202-203
Childrens' and Infants' Loose
204-205
Sleeves
PART FOUR Childrens'
Garments
and
208-
Childrens' Sizes
Tight-Fitting
Semi-Fitting
214- 215
Sack Coat Loose Box Coat Sleeve Tight-Fitting Waist Lining
216- 217
Waist
224- 225
Coat Dress
226
Military or Standing Collar One Piece Sleeves
228 229
Collars
234- 235
218- 219
220 221 222 223 .227
230- 233
238- 239
PART FIVE Infants'
Garments
Table of Proportionate Measurements for
271
Box Coat
272 273 274
Length of Garments Grading Lengths Grading Skirts
275 275 276
PART SEVEN Special
Measurement
278-279 Foundation of Garment Cutting 280-281 How to take Special Measurement Systematic Outline for Special Measure-
ment
282-283
Tight-Fitting French
Seam
284-285
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front Systematic Outline, No Seams Tight-Fitting Jacket, No Seams
How
Measurement Direct Short Measure System to take
Special
286-287
288-289 290-291 for
292
PART EIGHT
Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 236 237 Five Gore Skirt
French
Capes, Yokes, Collars, Cuffs
209
210 211 212- 213
Tight-Fitting
270
Table of Proportionate Measurements for Systematic Outline
Juniors'
Riding and Sporting Garments Riding Skirts
294-295
Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Apron Riding Skirt
296-297 300-301
298-299
Coat Dress
250-251
One Piece Sleevesl Infants' Yoke
252-253
254-255
Hints on Making Apron Riding Skirts Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns Ride Astride Skirt Making Ride Astride Skirts Riding Coat, Special Measure, No Seams Riding Coat, Special Measure, with Seams Pantaloon Skirt Ladies' Riding Breeches
Infants' Shield
254-255
Leggings
316
Hood
256-257
Gaiters
316
243
Infants' Sizes
Systematic Outline for Infants' Sizes
244-245
Loose Box Coat
246-247
Sleeve
248-249
\
PART SIX
302-303 304-305 306-307
308-309 310-311
312-313 314-315
PART NINE
Grading
Practical Tailoring
Art of Grading Scale of Regular Stock Patterns
260 261
Tight-Fitting with Dart
262
Semi-Fitting with Side Gore
263
Eton
264
Semi-Fitting French Seam Tight-Fitting French Seam Tight-Fitting Double French Seam How to grade Misses' Sizes from Size Patterns Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting
265
317-318
PART TEN Fitting
PART ELEVEN
266
PART TWELVE
267
Sketching
Ladies' 2(i8
269
335-336
c^,^
(^~ /n
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS