Americandesigner00scho

Page 1

TT 520 .S4

Copy

1

^





THE AMERICAN

DESIGNER A

and

CUTTER

Complete, Practical and

Work

Up-to-date

Art

on the

of Designing, Cutting,

Grading, Fitting, Sketching

and all

Practical Tailoring of

kinds of Womens', Miss-

es',

Juniors',

and

Infants'

Prof.

Sr

Childrens'

Garments

SCHORR

Publishers

AMERICAN PAT! ERN COMPANY New

York, U.

S.

A.


COPYRIGHT

1915. B Y

SAUL SCHORR

Entered according to act of Congress of tlie Librarian of

D.

Congress

at

Washington,

C, and any infringements on Copyright

will

the office

in

be prosecuted

the

to

the fullest extent of the law.

AUG I6I9I5

)CI,A411102

?l^


Preface

THE duced me

freely expressed wishes of to

experiment and practice This book

Infants' I

is

devoted

to

the art of designing, cutting, grading, all

at

fitting,

Garments.

trust the trade will here

hand

in-

kinds of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens'

acknowledge an honest attempt

of a permanent nature, that no matter

be

correspondents and pupils,

Designing and Garment cutting.

in the art of

sketching and practical tailoring of

and

my numerous

put into book form this compilation of several year's observation,

how

fashion

may

as a guide to the principles of designing

at finding

a work

fluctuate, will conveniently

and garment cutting

to

ensure

artistic results. I

have given such

should make

details of instruction as

this not

only an

in-

valuable handbook for the student, but a most useful work of reference for the

experience Designer, Cutter and Pattern- Maker this

who wishes

to

be up

to

date in

important department. I

am

convinced that any person of average intelligence can become a master

of the art through the

medium

of this publication,

whether

it

be a practical Designer,

Cutter or Pattern-maker, or one totally unaquciinted with the art of designing and

garment 1

cutting.

have spared neither labor nor expense

the highest place in the Designer's to a

and

in

making

Cutter's library,

world-wide audience believeing that

it

will

and

the

volume worthy

in introducing this

be of great service

in

of

book

helping to

achive success as Designer, Cutter and Pattern-Maker.

THE AUTHOR



Introduction.

THIS

work

is

many

a result of

years'

which no pains have been spared

The

student

will

from complication; no

find

scale,

the

chart

study,

research,

in

to perfect.

system extremely

and

and experiment,

and

simple

any kind

divisions of

is

entirely

free

simple

used,

the ordinary inch measure.

The method by which

the location of

in numerical order in the descriptive text plicity is systematized,

is

all

points

new

on the

in principle

is

at the

and by

found

its

sim-

time economized and trouble absolutely eliminated.

This important and thoroughly comprehensive work

and

draft are

same time simpler and more

direct

is

new

in principle

than any other system before

the trade.

SAUL SCHORR


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

10

What What

Know

a Designer Should

a Designer requires to do

to bring

is

ideas

new

into

and

associations

in

order to do this he must be ever on the alert to gather them from the books of bygone age, ac well as from the passing crowd. These ideas must be not only brought into

must be blended with the prevailing ideas

associationc, but they

new

fashions, or they will

of

not be acceptable.

Of course the Designer needs must be obeyed;

that

and another. There must be order running through

it all,

in the

still

gather an

sleeve from an other, a collar from a third

of

and proportion, are the laws idea for a skirt

one part

between the various

some

style

of beauty.

from one costume, a

and a body part from a fourth

blending the whole into one harmonious whole by acts as a connecting link

fundamental rules

arrangement, and there must be a proportion

for these three, unity, order

These we may obey, and

certain

must be unity between the design

instance, there

for

are

to realize that there

illustration,

ornamentation

of

which

parts.

Ladies' Tailor Qualifications The various.

qualifications necessary to

He must be an

artistic

blend his colors to match the etc.,

become

a successful

ladies'

taibr

nature with an eye to beauty, so that he

ladies'

complection, and to

are will

many and be able to

arrange the seams,

braiding,

so as to poduce the best effect on his customer.

He must have must be gentlemanly

a knowledge of materials and the latest in

method

manners and conversation, courteous and

of

decoration.

obliging,

He

and be pos-

sessed with an abudance of tact and ability to please, and treat his customers with respect.

He all

should be able to take his measure easy and

undue handling

he should abstain

He

of his customer.

hom

all

He

graceful,

and he should avoid

should never stand directly

in front of

her,

and

unnecessary conversation.

should also have a practical and technical knowledge of his trade, and be able

to design garments,

These

and produce them up-to-date and

qualities, assiduously cultivated, will

to

fit

the figure.

enable the aspirant to achieve success.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

System One er,

of the

most important things

Cutter or Pattarn-Maker

Cutter

should

who

of cutting

IS

The

it

to

and the

a study to be competent in his pattern cutting.

necessarily the

first

and garment

upon which

the system

is

upon

The knowledge

constructed.

It

lines,

the

number

in

practice

so far as the actual working of their system

know^ledge of the principle is

is

some guidance

not sufficient that

and the

fewr divisional

(if

only the student

is

concerned,

any) upon which

who

it

who

look back with

The

experimented with.

of systems (so-called) that they

tion of this very foolish practice consist in the fact that such students,

It

of a system

produce them.

There are many mature Designers and Cutters now surprise

are

though

absolutely

explana-

letter-perfect,

devoid

of

If

the principles

upon which

who

a system

based are unreliable, there can be no hope of anything approaching uniform success if

all

has been found.

has been well grounded in this essential information

can logically estimate the results of his practice.

use, but

and

satisfaction of his patrons,

cutting will require

he should merely understand the location of a few construction quantities that

a proficient Design-

step towards a practical position.

intelligent student of designing

as to the principles, or basis,

become

the abihty to cut perfect fitting patterns. Every Designer

is

interested in the elevation of his industry

is

make

order

to consider in

the principles are right the casual troubles that arise can be expeditiously

is

in its

and

effectually rectified.

Good The designer and line.

As soon

fashion.

cutter of to-day

as this idea

That what

is

is

grasped

it

Lines

must be an is

artist to fully

grasp what

is

the

good

necessary to change again after the caprices of

considered the perfect line to-day

is

altogether

changed

for

to-morrow.

The eyes must be always open. It

tume

fits

is

difficult to

follow this movement. Happily

many

well, but the greater part of dressy ladies desire

ladies are content that the lines

if

their cos-

must be

perfect.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

\2

Contrasts garments marked contrasts often produce the very best

In ladies'

introduction of a

some

velvet or brade in the trimming, or the use of

little

garment a character which pronunces

of button, gives the entire

and

results,

special

the

make

a stylish creation.

it

can be produced by employing compli-

In the selection of the lining excellent effects

lining for a russet coat, or a citrine lining for a blue coat,

mentary colors such as a green

or a primrose lining for a heliotrop cloth, and so on. Excellent effects are often obtained by the use of white

shades as 1

silver gray,

which goes well with any

think these contrasts are

more

silk

or satin linings, or such

cloth.

succesful than the best of matches.

Fashions Fashions in fema'e garments change rapidly, and as most ladies' in

harmony with

keep him

self

up

well posted

In the first place

visits,

the latest style, in

becomes desirable

it

what

for the designer

being worn. This

is

he should carefully note what

is

and

may be done

being worn

particularly study the exhibits of those firms of note

and

demaed

at

to

be dressed

ladies' tailor to

in

several ways.

the centres of fashion he

who have made

a reputa-

tion for this class of trade.

Then

is

it

very important that he should take in some fashion periodical, which

trate the latest features of fashion in

tailor-made garments; and that

is

illus-

such a way as to render them easy of applicaton to

what

is

most wanted.

Style As

in

garment designing, so

the trade. Style acter about

it.

is

has ever played an important part

the artistic finish given to the garment in order that

The run

of the seams, the finish of the edges, together

finish of the lapels, collar

to the

in cutting, style

and

purpose the garment

in

sleeves,

must

intended

for.

all

be appropriate

Fashion

it

may have

char-

with the size and

to the material

plates are the

in

means

used, and

of portraying

the character or style of the garments, and are interpretations of the style of the garments

favored by the various classes of the cmmunity

it

is

our duty to cater

for.


PART ONE

WOMEN'S GARMENTS


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

14

How

Take Measurement

to

Fig. 1. Place the tape

over the shoulder, continue

of

back neck

the front of shoulder,

under the

measure from the centre

down

arm, and straight across the centre back seam Place a pin or

make

a light chalk

in a horizontal line.

mark where

the tape

measure

meets the centre back seam horizontally.

Scye Depth Measure: Measure from the centre of

Fig. 2.

back neck the chalk

to the point

mark has been made.

Back Waist Length Measure: Frcm

Fig. 3.

of

back neck down

the

full

where the pin had been placed or where

to the natural waist length.

the centre

Continue down

to

length as desired.

Bust Measure: Around the body under the arms,

Fig. 4.

over the

fullest part in front

and

well

upon shoulder blades

Fig. 5.

Waist Measure: Around

Fig. 6.

Hip Measure: Around

below the waist

the

body

the

back.

at the waist.

the body about 6 inches

line.

For sleeve length the measure from arm

down under

in

arm

(inside seam).

pit to wrist straight


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

How

to take

Measurements

15


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

16

Comparative Proportions for Normal

Womans' Size

is

the

measurement over the

Bust measure

is

and

breast,

3 inches more than the

Sizes

is

3 inches

less

than the Bust measure.

Size.

Example: Size 36 measures 39 inches Bust. Size 42 measures 45 inches Bust.

Waist measure To

find the

.

Waist measure add

and

Vz of the size

V4

of

the

less

2

less

size

2 inches.

Example: Size 36. Half is 18 and 25 inches the Waist measure. Example: Size 38. Half is 19 and is

26 '/2 inches

Hips measure

is

Example

:

Neck Measure

.

is

9,

half

is

9'/2,

V4

of this

together 28'/2

inches

less

is

2 inches

the Waist measure.

4 inches more than the Size

together 27

half of this

Size.

36 measures 40 inches

Size

Hips. Size

and 5 inches more

Example: Size 36. One-quarter

of

36

of

42

will

40 measures 44

give the bodice size of neck.

9 and 5 inches more

is

inches Hips.

14 inches the bodice

is

size of neck.

Example: Size 42. One-quarter

is

10'/2

and 5 inches more

more

will

give the

4'/2

inches

is

15'/2

inches the

bodice size of neck.

Ba ck width measure.

'^ Size

and

:

Scye depth measure is 1 inch Example: 5 feet 6 inches

less

inches

4'/2

Example Size 36. One quarter Back width measure.

of

36

than

height.

'/e

is

9 and

Back width measure.

more

is

13'/2

inches the

total height.

One-eighth of 66

8!4

is

less

1

inch

is

7'^ inches

the Scye depth measure.

Example 5 feet 4 inches height. One-eighth Scye depth measure. :

Back waist-length measure

is

1

of

than

is 2'/2

inches

8

is

less

1

inch

is

7 inches the

inch less than V4 total height.

Example: 5 feel 6 inches height. One-quarter inches the Back waist length. Example: 5 feet 2 inches height. One-quarter inches the Back waist-length measure. Sleeve length

64

more than

the

Back

of

66

is

16'/2

less

1

inch

is

15'/2

of

62

is

15'/2

less

1

inch

is

14'/2

measure

or

waist-fength

l'/2

inches

more

V4 total height.

Example: By 15'/2 inches Back waist-length measure is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches. Example: By 5 feet 6 inches height is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches. Skirt length in front

is '/2

total height

and 9 inches more

and 10'/2 inches more; back length is Yj Example: 5 feet 6 inches. Skirt measure back 44 inches.

;

side length

is:

front

is

V2

total

height

and 11 inches more. 42 inches, side 43'/2 inches,

total height


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Table

of

Proportionate

For Size

Women

Measurements

17


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

18

Systematical Outline

MEASUREMENTS Scye depth

Back

Waist 26 inches.

inches

7'/t

Hips 41 inches.

waist-length 15'/2 inches.

Sleeve 18 inches.

Bust 40 inches.

TO DRAFT Draw

a straight line as from

from

A

this

is

A

Square out from

to D.

the Scye depth Measure, in

A is

the

Back

waist-length measure,

O

from N is V2 inch on through N.

in this case 15'/2 inches.

D

C

from

B

A

is

Q

from

for the waist

R

for the top line,

and from

D

C

from

for the bust line,

line

P from

6 inches always.

is

Square out from

for the hip line as repre-

is

is

%

is

I

24

by drawing a

located

is

the half-way between

B and

E.

the half-way between

E and

F.

from

G

is

the half-way between

B and

F.

5'/2

T

E,

F,

G

and

1

from

S

is

is

2!/( inches.

from A is the half of the distance from B to H, in this case 3 inches.

Square out from is

K

from

H

is

A

to J.

2 inches.

less

than the

dis-

%

V

from S

is

2 inches. Connect

W

from

R

is

2 inches.

represented.

Square out from

X

as represented.

located by drawing a line from

1% inches G to R.

inch more than the distance from R is from L to O on line drawn from R through T. Cut off the point at R of Ys inch as

as repre-

sented. I

A

U

inches always.

Square out from from

from

3'/4 inches.

is

tance from

is

line

Square out from S as represented.

inches.

is

A

and N.

inch.

the half Bust measure and 4

inches more, in this case

from

M

drawn from L

through Q.

S

B

line

the half-way between

sented.

from

as represented.

from is inch less than the Scye depth measure, in this case 6% inches.

case 7'^ inches.

from

M

M %

N

from from

W A

is

U— V.

W as represented

% inch

more than

to K, in this case

3%

the distance inches.

Y

is

located by a line squared out from E.

Z

is

located by a line squared out from F.

NOTICE To

all

Diagrams

designed

in this

Systematical Outline

— are seam-allowan-

ces of Ys inch allowed. In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematical Outline — is the half Waist measure with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. See Waist Suppression on Page 20.

In all Diagrams — des:gned in this Systematical Outline is the half Hips measure with V2 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on Page 20.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

19

Systematical Outline

i¥

Y

-4h

^^

%


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

20

One Dart

Tight-Fitting with First lay

up

as described

in

points to your measure Systematical Outline, then

all

continue as follows: 1 from Z 2 from Y

Vi inch.

is

2'^ inches. from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented for the fashionable

Draw

is

23 from 15

25 from

3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance from 3 to 5. Shape back part as represented. 7 from 5 is % inch. 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 9 from F is % inch. inch. 10 from 1 is by drawing a line from 9 1 1 is located is

H

and 9. the half-way between 7 and 10. located by drawing a line from the half-way between

13

is

14

is

15 16 17 18 19

through 13. from 12 is 1 inch. from 13 is '/a inch. from 13 is Vz inch. from 14 is 1 inch. from 14 is 1 inch.

20 from

11

is

1 '/i

inches.

9-24-25 as represented. a line from

line

allel

30

is

drawn

E

par-

with line 1-2.

located by

drawing a E-26.

line

from 29

parallel with line

31 from 30 32 from 30 33 from 29

is

l'/4

is

2%

is

the

inches.

inches.

same

length as 31 from

29.

Draw a

line

from 24

to

33

for the

run

of the waist line. is

located by

drawing a

line

from 31

parallel with line E-27.

35 from 34 12

is

%

inch

more than

the

dis-

tance from 31 to 32. is

%

inch.

of front; finish on the neck gorge, shoulder, armhole and

Shape the center front the

dart as represented. is the same length as

37 from 10

25 from

24.

33 from 35 39 from 31

inch.

%

is

lines

3C from 27

Vi inch.

21 from P is Vi 22 from 21 is

inch for seam.

through 26. 28 from G is 3'/t inches. 29 from 28 is 2 inches on

34

through 10.

%

26 from 2 is 1% inches. 27 is located by drawing

%

12

1 1

Shape

lines

waist line.

is

Shape both side-gores as represented. 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the same length as 9 to 10.

is is

l'^ inches. the same length as

38 from

33. Finish the bottom as represented.

inch for seam.

WAIST SUPPRESSION. By applying this System the For instance, 20 half Bust has 13 Bust has 10 h?lf Waist measure, etc.

half

half

Waist measure is with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. Waist measure, 24 half Bust has 17 half Waist measure, 17 half

Very easy to change the drah to your actual Waist measure, by following the instructions as below:

It is

difference between the half actual Waist measure and the half sy-tematical Waist measure is to be added to by larger actual waist measure and to be taken off by smaller actual waist measure at the front dart. For instance by drafting a pattern with 40 bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 13 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is 13'/2 inches, than you have to take out at the front dart 1/2 inch less: in this case take out on the draft from 30 to 32 only 214 inches. By drafting a pattern of 44 Bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 15 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is only 14 '/a inches than you have to take out at the front dart '72 inch more; in this case take out 3'/^ inches on draft from 30 to 32.

The

HIPS DEVELOPMENT. By instance

20 It

measure is with 1/2 inch more than the half Bust measure. For has 20'/2 half Hips measure, 24 half Bust has 24'/2 half l^ips measure, etc. very easy to change the draft to your actual Hips measure by following the instruction as below:

applying

this

System the

half fdips

half Bust

is

between the half actual Hips measure and the half systematical Hips measure is to be Hips measure and to be taken off by smaller actual Hips measure on the hip line equally divided at potnts 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20. For instance by drafting a pattern of 40 Bust measure the half of the systematical Hips measure will be 20y2 inches, and if the half of your actual Hips measure is 22 '/2 inches, than you have to allow 2 inches on the hip line equally divided at points 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20, and vica-verse.

The

added

to

by

difference

larger actual


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting with

One Dart

21


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

22

Two

Tight-Fitting with First lay

up

as described

in

points to your measure

all

Systematical Outline,

then

26 from 2 is 1% inches. 27 is located by drawing

from

Z

Y

1

Draw

28 from G is 314 inches. 29 is located by drawing

Vi inch.

is

2 '4 inches.

is

from C

lines

through 2 as represented

to

1

and from

for the fashionable

30

3 from C

is

2 inches.

31

is

1%

5 from 3

is

1

32 33

A

inches.

inch less than the distance

to K.

6 from 4

%

is

from 3

inch

more than the distance

Shape back part as represented. is

%

8 from 6

is

1

9 from F

is

is

1

is

inch.

29 and 30. 29 and 31. by drawing a line from 32

par-

inch.

by drawing a

line

line

H

is

the half-way between

the half-way between 7

from 9

is

located by drawing

a

and and

is

1

16 from 13

is

'/2

17 from 13

is

Va inch.

is

length as

34 from

1

inch less than the distance

K.

to

2 inches.

is

the

is

same length

as

37 from

line

Draw

from

a line from

12

40

is

l'/4

is

'^

1

inch. inch.

20 from

is

Vz

43 from 42

as 1 '/2

inch,

9

34

par-

inches.

inch

2'/2

is

more than

the dis-

inches.

Shape the center

of front;

front the neck, shoulder,

finish

on the

armhole and darts

as represented. for

seam.

for

seam.

Shape both side-gores

%

the run

for

tance from 35 to 37.

inch.

21 from P is Vz inch. 22 from 21 is % inch 23 from 15 is % inch

39

with line 26-27. is

1

to

located by drawing a line from

42 from 41

is

24

of the waist line.

41 from 40

is

is

A

inch.

18 from 14

lines

with line 29-26.

inch.

19 from 14

1 1

located

allel

15 from 12

same length

is

38 from 37 39 from 31

9.

10.

through 13.

is

the half-way between

31.

is

24 from 10

the half-way between

is

from

13

1 1

is

37 from 35

inch.

12

Shape

29

a

32.

inch.

% %

located

25 from

from

34 from 33 is % inch. 35 from 33 is % inch. 36 from 32 is the same

through 10.

14

a line through 31

located by drawing

is

allel

to 5.

7 from 5

10 from

E

through 28.

4 from D

1 1

from

line

parallel with line 1-2.

1

waist line.

from

a

through 26.

continue as follows:

2 from

Darts

as represented.

and

is

from 9 the

to 10.

inches.

9-24-25 as represented.

44 from 10

same length

as

25 from

45 from 43 is 1 '^ inches. 43 from 37 is the same length

as

45 from

is

the

24.

39.

47 from 27

is

%

inch.

Finish the bottom as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

23

X Tight-Fitting with

Two

Darts


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

24

Back and Semi-Fitting Front

Tight-Fitting

First lay

up

as described

in

points to your measure

all

Systematical Outline, then

22 from 21 23 from 15

from

Z

2 from

Y

Draw

is

2'^ inches.

is

from C

lines

through 2 as represented

to

and from

1

1

is

D

is

1%

is

1

4 from

5 from 3 from

A

6 from 4 from 3

2 inches. inches.

inch less than the distance

%

is

allel

inch

more than

the distance

is

%

8 from 6

is

1

9 from F

is

is

1

is

30

inch. inch.

by drawing a

located by drawing

is

a

line

from 28

a

line

from 28

E~26.

located by drawing

line

from 9

32 from 30 33 from 29 34 from 28

is

'/2

inch.

is

%

inch.

is

2'/2

inches.

is

the

same length

as 31 from

28.

H

is

the half-way between

13

is

the half-way between 7

is

located by drawing

through 13.

a

and

Draw

9.

and 10. line

from

a line from

24

to

34

for the

run

of waist line.

12

35 from 30

is

3'^ inches.

Finish the front as represented.

15 from 12

is

1

16 from 13

is

'/a

17 from 13

is

'/2

18 from 14

is

1

inch. inch.

36 from 10

is

the

same length

as

25 from

as

37 from

24. inch.

inch.

37 from 35

is

V/a inches.

inch.

38 from 31

is

the

19 from 14

is

1

20 from

is

Vi inch.

21 from P

is

par-

with line 1-2.

31 from 29

inch.

12

11

9-24-25 as represented.

through 29.

inch.

% %

located

lines

parallel with line

through 10.

14

29

to 5.

Shape back part as represented.

1 1

Shape

26 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 26. 27 from G is 3'^ inches. 28 from 27 is 2 inches on line drawn

to K.

7 from 5

10 from

same length as 9 to 10. 25 from 11 is l'/2 inches.

for the fashionable

waist line.

3 from C

inch for seam. inch for seam.

24 from 10

inch.

'/2

% %

Shape both side-gores as represented. the is % inch, and is from 9

continue as follows: 1

is

is

is

'/2

inch.

same length

34. Finish the bottom as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting

Back and Semi-Fitting Front

25


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

26

Blouse

First lay

up

all

points to your

measure as described

in

Systematical Outline,

then

continue as follows

1

from Z

is

'/2

Y

is

2'/4

2 from

Draw 3 from

4

is

C

lines

is

inch.

inches.

from C

to

and from

1

to

2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.

2 inches.

the half-way between

5 from 4

is

%

6 from

is

4 inches

1

1

F and M.

inch.

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 4

8

is

is

%

inch.

located by drawing a line from

2 from E. Finish the front as represented.

X

through E, and

is

from E the same length

as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Blouse

27


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

28

Basque or Tunic Skirt Measurers Waist 26 inches.

Hips 42 inches.

To Draft Draw

A.

a straight line as

from

A

is

from

B

is

D

from

A

E F

from

D

B C

G

is

is

is is

from

A

to

1.

the half Waist measure, in this case 13 inches,

6

inches.

2 inches. 1

dawn from D.

inch on line squared

located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at A. located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at A, and

Hips measure,

half

B-C

in this

the front iine, and F--G

is

is

from C Vi inch more than the

case 2V/i inches. is

the back line.

To Lengthen

the Skirt

1

is

located by drawing a line from

B

through

C

to the length

measure as desired.

2

is

located by drawing a line from

F through

G

to the length

measure as

3

is

the center between

4 from

1

is

B and

desired.

F.

V/i inches less than the half distance between

1

and

2,

and

is

from 3 the

length as desired.

5

is

located by drawing a line from 3 to 4.

6 from 5

is

1

7 from 4

is

the half difference between the width of bottom from

of

to

1

2 and the width

bottom as required.

8 from 4 of

inch.

is

the half difference between the width of bottom from

1

to

2 and the width

bottom as required. Cut out the space 6

-7--8--6 as

represented, and join

together 6-7

the Dart on the waist line as represented on the bottom draft 3--6--3.

NOTICE: On

this draft

are seams

not allowed.

with 6-8

to

get


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Basque or Tunic Skirts

29


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

30

Tight- Fitting Eton with First lay

up

all

One Dart

points to measure as described in Systematical Outline,

then con-

tinue as follows: 1

from Z

is

^/i

Y

is

2'^ inches.

2 from

Draw

inch.

from C to

lines

1

and from

1

through 2

for

the fashionable

waist

line

as

represented.

3 from

4

is

C

2 inches.

is

the half-way between

5 from 4

is

6 from

is

1

%

F and M.

inch.

4 inches.

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 4

is

%

8 from 2

is

1%

inch.

inches.

a line from

Draw

G

is

3'^ inches.

10 from 9

is

l'/2

9 h-om

11

is

E

to 8.

inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2.

located by drawing a line from 10 parallel with line E~8.

12 from 11

is

l'/4 inches.

13 from 11

is

2%

inches.

14 from 10

is

the

same length

as 12 from

10.

Finish the Front as represented. If

A

you wish

to 3.

to

have a close back, take

off

ys inch

seam

at the

back center from


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight- Fitting Eton with

One Dart

31


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

32

Tight-Fitting Eton with

First lay

up

all

Two

Darts

points to your measure as described in Systematical

Outline, then

continue as follows:

from

Z

2 from

Y

1

is

Draw

is

2'^ inches.

lines

3 from C

4

V2 inch.

is

from C

1 to

2

for the fashionable waist line as represented.

2 inches.

is

the half

way between F and M.

5 from 4

is

%

6 from

is

4 inches.

1

and frcm

to 1

inches.

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 4

is

%

8 from 2

is

1%

inch.

inches.

Draw

a line from

G

3'^ inches.

9 from

is

E

to 8.

is

located by drawing a line through 9 parallel with line

1 1

is

located by drawing

12

is

the half

13

is

the half-way between 10 and 12.

14

is

located by drawing a line from 13 parallel with line E--8.

10

% inch. % inch,

15 from 14

s s

17 from 16

s 1

19 h-om 12

from 10 through

way between 10 and

16 from 14

18 from 17

a line

and

is

11.

from 13 the same length as 15 from 13.

inch less than the distance between

2 inches, s

the

1--2.

9.

same length

as 17 from 12.

Finish the front as represented.

A

and K.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting Eton with

Two

Darts

33


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

34

Tight-Fitting Eton with

up

First lay

all

One Side-Gore

points to your measure as described

in Systematical

Oudine, then

continue as follows:

from

Z

2 from

Y

1

Vi inch.

is

2'^ inches.

is

Draw

C

from

lines

to

1

and from

1

through 2

for

the

as represented.

3 from C

is

4 from P

is

5 from

H

6 from 3

2 inches.

is

% %

inch.

inch.

same

the

is

K

as

from A.

Finish the back part as represented.

7 from 6

is

%

8 from 4

is

Vi inch.

9 from 8

is

%

10 from F

is

V/i inches.

is

2 '^ inches.

1 1

from

1

inch.

inch for seam.

Finish the side gore as represented.

12 from 10 13 from

%

is

1

is

'/4

14 from 2

is

1%

Draw a 15 from

G

16 from 15 17

is

is is

inch.

inch.

inches.

line

from E

to

14.

3'^ inches.

Vh

inches on line drawn parallel with line

located by drawing a line from 16 parallel

18 from 17

is

19 from 17

is

2%

inches.

20 from 16

is

the

same

I'A inches.

length as 18 from 16.

Finish the front as represented.

with line

1--2.

E-14.

fashionable waist line


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting Eton with

One Side-Gore

35


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

36

Seam

Tight-Fitting Eton with French up

First lay

all

points to your measure as described in Systematical

Outline, then

continue as follows: 1

from Z

2 from

is

Y

Draw

inch.

'/i

inches.

2'/4

is

from C to

lines

1

and from

1

through 2

for

the

fashionabie

represented.

3 from

C

is

4 from

O

is

5

is

is

%

inch.

L and

the half-way between

6 from 3 7

2 inches.

same

the

is

K

as

4, or located accordingly style

located by drawing a line from 5 to 6 as represented.

8 from 6

is

%

9 from 5

is

Ys inch

and

is

V4

inch higher from the line L-0.

10 from 4

is

%

inch and

is

V4

inch higher from line L--4.

11 from P

is

%

inch.

12 from F

is

IVz inches.

13 from

is

ZVa inches.

1

inch.

and the back

Finish the back part

14 from 12 15 from

1

Draw 17 from

1%

inches.

a line from

G

is is

side gore as represented.

inch. inch.

V4

is

18 from 17 is

%

is

is

18 from 2

19

and

from A.

E

to

16.

3'4 inches. IV2 inches on line drawn parallel with line

1--2.

located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16.

20 from 19

is

l'/4

21 from 19

is

2^^ inches.

22 from 18

is

the

23 from R

Draw a 24 from 23

Draw

is

the

line is

inches.

same length same

from 23

%

to

20 from

as

length as

L

18.

to 5.

18.

inch.

a line from

24

parallel with line 23--18 as represented.

Finish the front as represented.

taste.

waist

line

as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting Eton with French

Seam

37


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

38

Seam

Tight-Fitting French

as

First lay up all points to your measure described in Systematical Outline, then

25 from 5 is y% same length

continue as follows:

26 from 16

is

1

from

Z

is

'72

27 from 26

is

%

2 from

Y

is

2'^ inches.

1

Draw

lines

through 2

inch.

from

C

to

and from

represented.

3 from C

is

4 from D

is

O

is

5 from

6 from P

Draw 7

is

29 from 15

1%

30 from 2

% %

is

inch.

31

make

the width to style or taste.

9

is

inch less than

1

33 from

to

33

K.

located by drawing a line from 7 to 8

10 from 4

is

12 from 10 is

14 from

is

1

1

is

13 from F

% %

35

is

than 3 to

8.

inch.

line

from

17

is

the half-way between 11 and 14.

18

located by drawing a is through 17.

is

'/2

is

1

inch.

22 from 18

is

1

inch.

23 from 15

is

'/2

24 from 7

is

from the

line

line

from 16

is

1 Vi

inches.

is

2%

inches.

38 from 34

is

the

is

same length

36 from

as

located by drawing a line from

41 from

E

with line

R

Draw

is

is

4%

the

36

par-

-31.

inches.

same width

as

L

to 7.

a line from 41 to 34.

42 from 41

Draw

is

44 inch for seams.

a line from

43 from 14

42

parallel

with line

is

the

same

length as

29 from

28.

inch.

L-5.

par-

41-34.

inch.

y% inch,

34

with line E-30.

13

inch.

20 from 17

inch.

2 inches on line drawn from

is

40 from 39

the half-way between 9 and 13.

21 from 18

%

3'/t inches.

is

37 from 35

39

inch.

is

'/)

from E

line

34.

16

is

inches.

inches.

36 from 35

inch.

a is located by drawing through 14.

19 from 17

%

from 13 the

is

13.

located by drawing a line from

allel

15

side gores as rep-

parallel with line 1-2.

allel

% inch more % inch.

is

from 8

and

by drawing a

is

G

34 from 33

A

as represented.

1 1

1

located

is

l'/2

is

is

32 from 31

a line from 5 to 6.

is

inch for seam.

through 30.

inch.

the half-way between 5 and L, or

8 from 3

from 6 the

inch.

28 from 14 is % inch, and same length as 14 from

2 inches. inches.

is

P.

resented.

1

fashionable waist line as

for the

O

Finish the back 1

and from

inch,

as

and

is

!/4

inch higher

44 from 40

is

1 '^

inches.

45 from 36

is

the

same length

as

38. Finish the front as represented.

44 from


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting French

Seam

39


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

40

Tight- Fitting Double French up

First lay

as

points to your measure

all

described in Systematical Outline, then

continue as follows:

from

Z

is

'/2

2 from

Y

is

2'^ inches.

1

Draw

from

lines

through 2

inch.

for the

C

to

1

and from

1%

is

5 from O 6 from P

Draw

2 inches.

is

is is

% %

41

inch. inch. 6.

is

the half of

distance

from

A

is

the half of

distance

from

A

to K.

9

is

located by drawing a line from 7 to 8.

10 from 4

is

%

inch

14.

16 from 12

is

%

inch

45 46

more than the distance

from 3 to 8. 1 1 from 8 is '^ inch. 12 from 10 is Vi inch. 13 from 5 is '/2 inch more than L to 7. 14 from 1 1 is '/2 inch more than 3 to 8. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 to

42 43

44

to K.

8 from 3

more than 11

Finish the middle back part

to 14.

as repre-

47 48 49

line

from

19

through 20.

25 26 27 28 29 30 31

32 33

is

line

through 39

line from 40 is located by drawing a through 39. is the half-way between 40 and 41. is the half-way between 40 and 42. is located by drawing a line from 43 parallel with line E~36. from 44 is Vs inch. from 44 is Vs inch, and is from 43 the same length as 45 from 43. is located by drawing a line from 45 parallel with line E~37. from 47 is l'^ inches. from 46 is 1 inch less than the distance

from

A

to K.

42.

17 from 14 is '/2 inch. 18 from 16 is Vi inch. 19 from F is % inch. 20 from 1 is % inch. 21 is located by drawing a is

Ys inch.

50 from 48 is '^ inch more than the distance from 46 to 49. 51 from 49 is 2 inches. 52 from 42 is the same length as 49 from

sented.

22 23 24

is

parallel with line 1-2.

inches.

from 5 to

line

7 from L

through 36.

38 from 37

39 from G. is 3'/i inches. 40 is located by drawing a

represented.

3 from C 4 from D

34 from 20 is % inch, and is from 19 the same length as 20 from 19. 35 from 21 is l'/2 inches. 36 from 2 is 1% inches. 37 is located by drawing a line from E

1

fashionable waist line as

Seam

the half-way between 15 and 19. the half-way between 17 and 20.

is located by drawing a line from 22 through 23. from 23 is '/2 inch. from 23 is '/2 inch. from 24 is 1 inch. from 24 is 1 inch. from 21 is '/2 inch. from 13 is inch, and is '4 inch higher from line L-5. from 5 is inch, and is from 6 the same length as O from P. from 22 is 1 inch. from 32 is inch for seam.

%

%

%

Finish the side gores as represented.

53 from 50 is 2'^ inches. 54 from R is yg inch more than the distance from L to 7. Draw line from 54 to 43. 55 from 54 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 55 parallel with line 54-43.

56 from U is the same width as 30 to 31. 57 from 56 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 57 to 42. Draw a line from 56 parallel with line 57-42.

58 from 20 is the same length as 35 from 34. 59 from 53 is 1 '^ inches. 60 from 49 is the same length as 59 from 52. 61 from 48 is the same length as 60 from 50. 62 from 45 is the same length as 61 from 46. Finish the front as represented.

%

By cutting out the pattern allow extra inch for seams all way down at lines

7--8--10,

and

7--11--12.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting Double French

Seam

41


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

42

Tight- Fitting 18 Gores First lay up all points to your measure described- in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows:

as

from Z 2 from Y 1

Draw through 2

'/i

for the

44 1

and from

1

fashionable waist line as

represented.

3 4 5 6

from C from D from O from P

2 inches.

is

42 from 21 43 from 2

inch. is 2'^ inches. lines from C to is

41 from 20 is '^ inch, and is from 19 the same length as 32 from 19.

45 46 47

1%

inches. inch. inch. is Draw a line from 5 to 6. 7 from L is the half of distance to K. 8 from 3 is the half of distance is

% %

is

48 49 50

from

A

from

A

52

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance

53 54

to

51

K.

from 3

to 8.

55

Finish the back part as represented.

from 8 is Va inch. 12 from 10 is V2 inch. 13 from 5 is V2 inch more than L to 7. 14 from 11 is the same width as 3 to 8. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 1 1

to 14.

17 from 14 is V2 inch. 18 from 16 is Vz inch. 19 from F is l'^ inches. 20 from 1 is l'^ inches. 21 is located by drawing a

28 29 30 31

60 61

62 63 line

from

19

through 20.

27

58 59

%

inch more than 11 to 14. is Finish the middle back part as represented.

16 from 12

22 23 24 25 2G

58 57

one-third of 15-19. is the halfway between 15-22. is one-third of 17-20. is the half-way between 17-24. a line from is located by drawing through 24. a line from is located by drawing through 25. nch. from 25 is nch. from 25 is nch. from 24 is nch. from 24 is nch. 20 is from nch. from 27 is nch. from 27 is nch. from 26 is nch. from 26 is

64 G5 66

is

32 33 34 35 36 37 from 21 38 from 13

is is

23

nch, and

is

is

V^ inch

higher

from 6 the same

Finish the side gores as represented.

1%

inch. inches.

drawing a line from E is located by through 43. inch. from 44 is from G is 3'^ inches. is located by drawing a line through 46 parallel with line 1-2. is located by drawing a line from 47 through 46. is the half-way between 47 and 48. is the half-way between 46 and 47. is the half-way between 48 and 49. is located by drawing a line from 50 parallel with line E-43. inch. from 52 is inch, and is from 50 the from 52 is same length as 53 from 50. is located by drawing a line from 53 parallel with line E~44. from 55 is I'/t inches. from 54 is 1 inch less than ihe distance from A to K. from 56 is '^ inch more than 57 from 54. from 57 is 1 V2 inches, and is from 49 the same length as 57 from 49. from 58 is 1% inches. is the half-way between 41 and 59. from 51 is located by drawing a line through 61. from 61 is '^ inch. from 61 is '^ inch. from 62 is V4 inch. inch more than the distance from R is from L to 7. Draw a line from 66 to 50. inch for seams. from 66 is Draw a line from 67 parallel with line

%

% %

%

%

66-50. 68 from U is the same width as 38 to 39. 69 from 68 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 69 to 49. Draw a line from 68 parallel with line

69-49 is the half-way between S and V. 71 from 32 is the same length as 42 from 41. 72 from 6 1 is 1 V4 inches. 73 from 57 is the same length as 72 from 59.

70

Finish the front as represented.

By for

nch.

from line L-5. inch, and 39 from 5 is length as O from P. 40 from 23 is 1 inch.

%

67 22

1

is

is

cutting out the pattern allow extra

seams all way down as follows: Ysinchat Hne7 9 8-10. ys inch at line 7-9-11-12. Vs inch at line 70-51-63-65. % inch at line 70-51 64-62. V4 inch at line '^ inch at line '/4 inch at line

19 32-71. 22-31-35. 40-23-29-32.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight- Fitting 18 Gores

43


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

44

Tight-Fitting points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: First lay

up

all

rom Z is '/2 inch, rom Y is 2V^ inches. Draw lines from C to through 2

and from

1

for the fashionable waist line as

%

o 15.

20 rom rom

22 23 24 25 26 27

inch, I/4 Vs inch, 18 is ihe same as 3 to 9. from 19 is inch more than is

%

rom 20 is '^ rom 21 is V2 rom F is 1 '^ rom 1 is 1 '^

31

33

34 35 36 37 38 39 40

inch, inch, inches, inches.

s located by drawing a hrough 26.

45

47 48 49 50

53

59

line

from 25

one-third of distance from to 22. the half-way between 22 and 28. s one-third of distance from 26 to 23. s the half-way between 30 and 23. s located by drawing a line from 28 hrough 30. s located by drawing a line from 29 hrough 31.

31 31

Ys inch. Hi inch. 30 is '/4 inch. 30 is Va inch. 26 is V4 inch. 33 is Vs inch. 33 is Vz inch. 32 is Ys inch. 32 is Vz inch. 27 is Va inch. 7 is ^/ inch, and is Va inch higher ban line L- O. rom 5 is inch, and is the same length rom 6 as from P. rom 29 is 1 inch. Finish the side gores as represented. rom 26 is Va inch. rom 27 is 1 inch. rom 2 is inches.

from

is

one-fifth of the distance

from

is

one-fifth of the distance

from

to 54.

located by drawing a

is

located by hrough 49.

drawing a

line

from

E

from

55

through 66.

68 from 66 is Va inch. 69 from 66 is Va inch. 70 is located by drawing 72 73 74 75 73 77 78

79

80 81 82

is

1%

lime

E-49.

60 from 59 is Vz inch. 61 from 59 is Vz inch. 62 from 61 is IVa inches less than K from A. 63 from 62 is 1 inch. 64 from 63 is the same as 62 from 61. 65 from 64 is Ya inch. 6G is the half-way between 65 and 47. 67 is located by drawing a line from 58

is

%

s

one-fifth of the distance

to 54.

58 from 57

is

O

46

53

s

rom rom rom rom rom rom rom 41 rom 42 rom 43 rom 44 rom

through

line

to 54.

57 from 56

71

18

25

32

53

is

o 20. s located by drawing a line from 7 to 20.

28 rom 25 29 30

23 to 54. 5S from 55 is

parallel with line

18 rom 15 19 rom 16

a

parallel with line 1-2.

is located by drawing a line from 53 through 52. 55 from 53 is one-fifth of the distance from

7.

9 rom 3 is lYs inch less than K from A. 10 rom 4 is % inch more than 3 to 9. 11 s located by drawing a line from 8 to 9. Finish the back part as represented, 12 rom 9 is V4 inch, 13 rom 10 is Ys inch. 14 s the half-way between 7 and 8. inch less than 3 to 9. 15 rom 12 is 16 rom 13 is % inch more than 15 from 12. 17 s located by drawing a line from 14

21

Ys inch.

54 1

rom C is 2 inches, rom D is 1% inches, rom O is % inch, rom P is % inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. rom O is 2 inches. rom L is one-third of distance from L o

is

52 from G is 3Va inches. 53 is located by drawing 52

rep: esented.

3 4 5 6

22 Gores

51 from 50

83 84 85 8G

a

line

from

60

parallel with line E-50. from 70 is 1 inch.

71 is Va inch more than 62 from 61. 72 is I'/s inches. 73 is Va inch more than 64 from 63. 74 is % inch. 67 is Va inch. R is Ys inch more than 8 from L. Draw a line from 77 to 55. from 77 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 78 parallel with line 77-55. from 78 is % inch more than 14 from 8. Draw a line from 79 to 56. from 79 is Ya inch for seams. Draw a line from 80 parallel with line 79-56. from U is the same as 45 from 44. from 81 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 82 to 57. Draw a line from 81 parallel with line 82-57. is the half-way between S and V. from 38 is the same length as 48 from 47. from 75 is 1 Va inches. from 64 is the same length as 85 from 65. Finish the front and bottom as repre-

from from from from from from

sented.

By for

cutting out the pattern allow extra all way down as follows

seams

:

% inch at line 8 inch inch inch inch inch inch inch inch

at line al line

at line at line at line at line

at at

9 10. 8-12-13.

14-15 16. 14-18-19.

46-35 39. 28-37-41. 25 38 84.

Hne 83-69-67. Hne 83-68-76.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting 22

45

Gores

42

21

16

10


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

46

Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front up

First lay

points to your measure as described in Systematical

all

Ootline, then

continue as follows: 1

from Z

2 from

is

Y

Draw

inch.

'/i

2'^ inches.

is

C

from

lines

to

1

and from

1

through 2

for

the fashionabie

represented.

3 from C

5 from

is

D

a

inches. inch.

inch.

% inch. % inch.

is

H

!/4

1

is

6 from P 7 from

l'/2

is

4 from 3

is

8 from 4

is

1

9 from 5

is

%

inch

A

to K.

more than the distance from 4

to 8.

more than

inch

the distance from

Finish the back as represented.

10 from 8

is

'/2

from 9

is

1 '/2

12 from 6

is

'/2

inch.

% %

inch.

1 1

13 from F

is

14 from

is

15

is

1

inch.

inch.

located by drawing a line from 13 through 14.

16 from 14 17 from

1

is

is

'/2

is

'/2

19 from 15

is

1

is

inch.

inch,

'/2

18 from 15

20

inches.

and

is

from F the same length as 16 from 13.

and

is

from 17 the same length as 18 from 16.

inch.

inch,

located by line squared out from E.

21 from 2

Draw

is

'/2

line

inch.

from E through 21.

Finish the front

and

side gore as represented.

waist

line

as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi- Fitting Back and Loose Front

47


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

48

Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front up

First lay

points to your measure as described in Systematical

all

Ootline, then

continue as follows: 1 from Z 2 from Y

is

'/2

inch.

2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to is

1

and from

1

through 2

for

the

fashionable

represented.

3 from

C

4 from 3 5 from D 6 from P 7 from H 8 from 4 9 from 5

l'/2

is

inches.

a '^ inch.

is is

inch.

1

% inch. % inch.

is is

inch

is

1

is

%

inch

more than the distance from A more than the distance from 4

to K. to 8.

Finish the back as represented.

10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 1 1 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 12 from 6 is '72 inch. 13 from F is % inch. 14 from 1 is % inch. 15 is located by drawing a IG from 14 is '/2 inch.

line

from 13 through 14.

Finish the side gore as represented.

17 from 1 is '/2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 18 from 15 is 1 inch. 19 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 19. 20 from G is 3 Va inches. 21 from 20 is l'/2 inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 24 from 22 is Vz inch. 25 from 24 is 3 inches. 26 from 21 is the same lenghth as 24 from 21. inch. 27 from 23 is 28 from 27 is 3% inches.

%

Finish the front as represented.

29 from 16 30 from 28 31 from 24

same length

is

the

is

l'^ inches.

is

the

same length

as

18 from 17.

as

30 from 26.

Finish the bottom as represented.

waist

line

as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front

49


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

50

Seam

Semi-Fitting French up

First lay

as

points to your measure

all

described in Systematical Outline, then

20 from 18 21 from 7

continue as follows:

from

Z

is

'/2

Y

is

2'^ inches.

Draw

inch.

C

from

lines

22 from to

and from

1

1

as represented.

3 from

C

4 from 3

D

G from

O

7 from P

8

is

inches.

V4 inch.

is

5 from

Draw

l'/2

is

a line from 6 to

9 from 4 from A

10 from 5 from 4 1 1

is

make

the distance

more tham

the distance

as represented.

14 from F 15 from

16

is

is l'/2

1 is

inch.

by drawing a

through 15. 1

7 from

1

5

is

1—2 from 26

line

is

line

from 26

length as

29 from

by drawing a

located

V2 inch.

is

30 from 28

is

Vs inch.

from 29

is

3 inches.

32 from 26

is

the

same

is

3%

inches.

1

33 from 30

Draw

V2 inch.

18 from 8

is

Vs inch.

19 from 6

is

%

inch.

the

is

same width

a line from

%

is

34

as

L

to 8.

to 26.

inch for seams.

a line from

35

parallel

with line

34-26.

36 from 16

% inch. % inch.

located

with line

localed

Draw

V2 inch.

is

by drawing a

is

35 from 34

Finish the back as represented.

13 from 10

27

34 from R

to 9.

is

3'/4 inches.

is

26.

located by drawing a line from 8 to 9

12 from 9

2 inches.

IV2 inches on line drawn from

3

more than

% inch

is

P.

26 from 25 is 25 parallel

29 from 27

7.

K.

to

from

through 27.

the half-way between 6 and 4, or

inch

O

inch.

1

is

is

G

25 from

28

the width to style or taste. is 1

as

parallel with line E- -24.

% inch. % inch.

is

is

same length

Vz inch.

is

24 from 2

inch.

1

is

1

23 from 16

for the fashionable waist line

through 2

the

is

Finish the side gore as represented.

2 from

1

'^ inch.

is

V4 inch.

is

37 from 22

is

the

same length

as

36 from

17. line

from 14

38 from 33

is

39 from 29

is

114 inches. the

same length

as

38 from

32. Finish sented.

the front

and bottom as repre-


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting French

Seam

51


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

52

Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect up

First lay

as

points to your measure

all

described in Systematical Outline, then

continue as follows:

Z

is

V2 inch.

2 from

Y

is

2'^ inches.

Draw

23

to

1

and from

24

as represented.

3 from C

3V4 inches.

is

is I'/a

inches on line drawn from

is

is

line

18-5.

by drawing a

located

paralled with line

1

for the fashionable waist line

through 2

2 inches.

is

G

21 paralled with

from C

lines

21 from

22 from 21

from

1

20 from 2

E

by drawing a

located

line

from 22

line

from 22

-20.

through 23.

3 inches.

25 from 23

1

is

3 inches.

5 from 2

is

3 inches.

26 from 23 is Ya inch, and is from 22 same lenght as 25 from 22.

4 from

Draw

is

from 3

lines

to

4 and from 4

5

to

27

as represented.

6 from 3 7 from

D

8 from P 9 from

10 from 6 11 from 7

29 from

V4 inch.

is

H

%

is

%

is

inch

more than

K

from A.

more than 10 from

6.

Finish the back as represented.

12 from 10 13 from 11

is is

14 from F

is

15 from 4

is

16

% inch. % inch.

19 from 16

is 1

inch. inch.

the

is

length

as

of

is

located by a line squared out from 29.

is

located by a line squared out from 29.

32

is

located by a line squared out from 29.

is

line

from

14

37

is is

the

same length

the

same

as

30 from

10.

length as

35 from

18.

located by a line squared out from 29.

36 from 32

V4 inch.

is '^

garment

inch.

31

35

Finish the back-side gore as represented.

18 from 4

up

30

34 from 17

inches.

is located by drawing a through 15.

17 from 15

%

is

A

33 from 12

'^ inch. I'/i

line

desired.

inch.

l'^ inch

is

V

the

Finish the front as represented.

inch.

is 1

inch.

'/i

is located by drawing a square from the hip line to 26.

28 from

l'^ inches.

is

is

is 1

'^ inches.

a line from 25 through 24, and is from 25 the same length as 36 from 26. is

located by drawing

38 from R

is

1

inch.

Allow for button stand 2 inches for single breasted and 3 inches for double breasted. Finish the bottom as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect

53


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

54

Semi-Fitting Coat with up

First lay

all

Underarm Gore.

points to your measure as described in Systematical

Outline, then

continue as follows:

from

Z

is

'/2

2 from

Y

is

2'^ inches.

1

Draw

inch.

is 1 '/2

4 from 3

is

5 from

D

6 from

M

from

lines

3 from C

C

to

1

and from

2

for the fashionable waist line as represented.

inch.

7 from 6

is

8 from 4

is

3 inches more than

is

to

'^ inch.

is 1

% inch. % inch.

9

1

inches.

is

K

from A.

located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented.

10 from 5

%

is

inch

more than 8 from

4.

Finish the back as represented.

from 7

is

1 Vi

inches.

2 from 9

is

1

inches.

13 from 8

is

2 inches

1 1 1

14 from 10 15

is

'/2

1%

is

inches.

located by drawing a shapad line from 11 to 14 as represented.

16 from 2

17 from

2 inches.

is

Draw a

G

line

from E through 16

is 3'/4

18 from 17

is '/i

for the

run of front center.

inches inch.

19

is

locaied by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line

20

is

located by drawing a line from 18 through 19.

21 from 19

is

Vi inch.

22 from 21

is

3 inches.

23 from 18

is

the

24 from 20

is

% inch.

25 from 24 28 from

is

V

27 from 26

is

28 from 29

is

A

1

is

3%

as 21 from 18.

inches.

% inch. % inch.

the length of garment as desired.

is

located on line squared out from 28.

30 from 15 3

is

same length

is

located

the

on

same length

line

32 from 31

is

l'^ inches.

33 from 21

is

the

same length

Finish the front

as

29 from

8.

squared out from 28.

as

32 from 23.

and underarm gore

as represented.

E

-16.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting Coat with

Underarm Gore.

55


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

56

Sac Coat with Loose Front up

First lay

all

points to your measure as described in Systematical

Outline, then

continue as follows: 1

from Z

is

Y

is

2 from

Draw 3 from

C

4 from 3

inch.

'72

lines

from

6 from

M

to

1

and from

7 from 6

is

8 from 4

is

3 inches more than

is

to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.

inch.

is 1

% inch. % inch.

9

1

'^ inch.

is

D

C

inches.

is 1*72

5 from

inches.

2'/4

is

K

from A.

located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented.

10 from 5

% inch more than 8 from 4.

is

Finish the back as represented. 1 1

from 8

1%

13 from F

14 from

inch.

is '/2

12 from 10

inches.

^h inch.

is

1 is Vj inch.

inches and

15 from 14

is 2'/2

16 from 14

is

Ys inch.

17 from 14

is

ye inch.

18 from 2 19 from

A

is '/2 is

is

located by drawing a line from 13 through 14.

inch.

the length of garment as desired.

20

is

located on line squared out from 19.

21

is

located by drawing a line from

22 from

1 1 is

23 from

R

24

is

is 1

is

same length

as

E through

20 from

18.

8.

inch.

located by a line squared

25 from 24

26

the

is '/2

down from S and

is

2^2 inches below the fashionable waist

line.

inch.

located by drawing a line from

25 through 15 and

is

the half of the pocket

size, in this

case 3 inches.

27

is

located by drawing a line from

6

inches.

28 from S 29 from

30

is

G

is 1

is

26 through 25 and

is

the

full

pocket

size, in this

inch.

y2 inch.

located by drawing a line from

28 through 29, and

Finish the draft as represented.

is

in this

case 5 inches long.

case


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sac Coat with Loose Front

57


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

58

Sac Coat with Shaped Front up

First lay

all

points to your measure as described in Systematical

Outline, then

continue as follows:

from

Z

is

'/2

2 from

Y

is

2'^ inches.

1

Draw

lines

3 from C

is

4 from 3

is '^

5 from

D

6 from

M

inch.

from

C

to

1

and from

for the fashionable waist line as represented.

inch.

is

% inch. % inch.

8 from 4

is

3 inches more than

is

2

inch.

is 1

7 from 6

9

to

1

inches.

1 '/i

is

K

from A.

located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented.

10 from 5

%

is

inch

more than 8 from

4.

Finish the back as represented. 1 1

from 8

is

'/2

12 from 10

inches.

1%

is

inches.

13 from F

is '/2

inches.

14 from

is

inch.

1

'/2

2 '/a inches and

15 from 14

is

16 from 14

is '/2

inch.

17 from 14

is

inch.

18 from 2 19 from

21

is

22

is

3'^ inches.

is

20 from 19

located by drawing a line from 13 through 14.

2 inches.

is

G

'/2

is

is l'/2

inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 1—2-

located by drawing a line from

20

located by drawing a line from

20 through

23 from 21

is '/2

inch.

24 from 22

is

%

inch.

25 from 23

is

3 inches and

26 from 24

is

3%

27 from

A

is

parallel with line

from 20 the same length as 23 from 20.

inches

the length of garment as denired.

is

28

is

located on line squared out from 27.

29

is

located on line squared out from 27.

30 from

1 1

is

the

31 from 29

is

1 '^

32 from 23

is

33 from R

is

34 from 33

the

same length

as

28 from

length as 31 from 25.

3^^ inches.

is

8.

inches.

same

E— 18.

21.

% inch for seams.

Finish the draft as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sac Coat with Shaped Front

59


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

60

How To make

to

a shoulder dart

make Shoulder Dart

we must have

first

a french

seam

Put the two parts together so that they should lap over

and B

to

D

as represented.

%

front.

inch from

A

to

C


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

How

to

make Shoulder-Dart

61


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

62

Loose Box Coat up

First lay

points to your measure as described in Systematical

all

Outline, then

continue as follows: 1

from Z

2 from

is

Y

Draw 3

is

inch.

'/2

2'^ inches.

is

lines

4 from 3

is

5 from 3

is

is

V4 inch

is

l'^ inches.

8 from C

is

A

is

% %

10 from L

is

'^ inch.

R

is

%

inch.

12 from 2

is

V2

inch.

9 from

11 from

Draw 13 from is

A

1

through 2 as represented.

F.

inch.

"

E through

12.

the length of garment as desired.

is

located by a line squared out from 13.

16 from 4 is

and from

inch.

a line from

15 from 14

17

1

more than 5 from

1

14

to

% inch. % inch.

7 from 6

6 from

Vz inch.

is

the

is

same length

as 15 from 5.

located by a line squared out from 13.

8 from

7

is

1

19 from 11

is

1

1

C

from

the half-way between F and M.

1

Allow

for

V4

inches.

inch.

button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted.

Finish the draft as represented. If

center.

you wish

to

have the back center without seam, take

off

%

inch

seam

at the

back


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Loose Box Coat

63


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

64

Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart up

First lay

all

points to your

measure as described

Systematical Outline, then

in

continue as follows: 1

fom Z

2 from

inch.

is 1/2

Y

is

2'^ inches.

Draw Lines from C

to 1

and from

1

through 2 as represented.

the half-way betveen F, and M.

3 is inch. 4 from 3 is inch. 5 from 3 is 6 from 1 is '^ inch more than 5 from 7 from 6 is 1 V4 inches. 8 from C is % inch. 9 from A is % inch. 10 from L is V4 inch. 1 1 from R is % inch. 12 from 2 is 2 inches.

% %

Draw a 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

line

from

E

F.

through 12 as represented.

from G is 314 inches. from 13 is iy2 inches on line drawn from 13 parallel with is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. from 16 is V2 inch. from 17 is 3 inches. from 14 is the same length as 17 from 14.

line 1-2.

20 from 15 is % inch. 21 from 20 is 3% inches. 22 from A is the full length as desssired. 23 is located by a line squared up from 22, 24 is located by a line sqoared up from 22. 25 is located by a line squared up from 22. 26 from 24 is V2 inch. 27 from 4 is the same length as 26 from 5. 28 from 25 is l'/4 inches. 29 from 17 is the same length as 28 from 19. 30 from R is inch. Allow

for button stand

3 inches

for single breasted,

4 inches

for

double breasted.

Finish the draft as represented. If

you wish

to

have the back centre without seam, take

off

'„

inch

seam

at te

back centre

To get the front-shoulder dart make the front with french-seam as follows: 31 from 11 is 3% inches. Draw a line from 31 to 14. inch for seams. 32 from 31 is Draw a line from 32 parallel with line 31-14 as represented. To get the shoulder dart bring the front parts together as described an illustrated on

%

pages 60 and 61.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart

65


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

66

Coat Sleeve

1

a straight line as from

Draw

2 from

is

I

Square a

3 from

line

up from

full

4

is

5

is

the center of

is

located by a line squared

7

is

the center of 2-4.

8

is

the center of

by a

line

line

is

2 inches.

10 from 8

is

the

is

2 inches.

same length

from

12

is

the center of 10-11.

13

is

the center of 3-10.

between

14 from

12

is

15 from

1

3

is

16 from

3

is j-o

inch.

17 from

3

is '2

inch.

18 from 6

20 from

7 is 2 incses.

Draw

is

1

22 from 20

is

1

21

is

Draw

-

1

and from

I

through

3.

a line from 4 through 20.

21 from 20

24 from

i

1

2 inches.

is

5 is 3 inches.

4

1

as 8 from

'2 inches.

19 from

23 from

5.

inch.

'4

1

up from

from 8 as represented.

1 1

lines

inch on a line squared up from

1-3.

9 from 9

Draw

1

1-2.

Square out a

I

bust measure plus

squared out from 3 as represented.

located

6

to 2.

2.

a quarter of the

is

1

1

the Sleeve length measure (inside seam).

'

J

is

all

inch. inch.

inch.

l<2

inch.

construction lines as represented.

Shape the top sleeve

as represented

Shape the under sleeve

by

as represented

lines

by

between

lines

I

1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1

I.

between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Coat Sleeve

67


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

68

Sleeve with fulness on top

To make Mark

the sleeve with

the top-sleeve as

The shape ness

is

more

on the head, proceed as follows

fulness

shown by A-B-C-D-E.

of the sleeve

remains always the same between A-B-C-D and

allowed only at points E, F, G,

H

ful-

as desired.

Finish the top-sleeve as represented.

The

under-sleeve

is

not to be changed

One

;

it

remains always the same.

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the top and Cuff

To

malce one piece sleeve place the top and under sleeves together at the

back seam

so, that

they should overlap

'4

inch for figuring the seams

the sleeve as represented.

The

cuff

is

represented by heavy, broken lines.

off,

and

finish


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sleeve with fulness on top

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the lop and Cuff

69


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

70

One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom

Bishop Sleeve

Place the fop- and under sleeve together

%

figuring the seams

inch for

and

off,

The lower diagram shows how Square bot-ways from

1.

1

the sleeve length measure (inseam).

1

is

one-quarter of the

between

is

the center

5

is

the

is

the center between

as 1-3 on

same

7 from 2

8 from

10 from

same

the

and

1

full

line

by

direct drafting as follows:

'

4 inch.

4.

from

as 6

I

squared out from

on

1

line

7.

squared out from

6.

2 inches.

is

lines.

and

1 1 is

12

the center between 9 and

13 from

11

is

14 from

12

is

is

is

18 from 8

is

19 from 6

is

'4

1

'4

1

9.

10.

inches.

mch.

2 inches.

5 is 3

17 from 8

they should overlap

1-3.

the center between

16 from

Bust measure plus

Hne squared out from

Connect 1-9-10 by

15 from 4

so, that

2.

as 6 from

2 inches on

is

3

same

the

is

7 is

9 from 6

is

this sleeve

is

4

6

make

seam

as represented.

1

2 from 3 from

to

the back

at

represented by the upper diagram.

finish as

inches.

1

inch.

1

inch.

2 inches.

Connect points as represented.

Shape the sleeve

the top

at 5

and

between

and

front

seam

as represented.

20

is

the center between

21

is

the center

3

and

6.

22

is

located by drawing a

line

from 20 through 21.

23

is

located by drawing a line from 22 through 20.

Fold the paper

at

I

6.

the line 22-20-23 and trace over the under sleeve

8-20-2 bv the heavy, broken hne between points

1

-22- 19-

1

,

and

as

finish the sleeve as

represented represented


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom

Bishop Sleeve

71


;

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

72

One

make

First

A-B. Draw a

Piece Tight Sleeve

a Bishop Sleeve as described on page 70 and then continue as follows

straight line

from

A

A

to B.

C

is

D

from

C

is

the sleeve length measure (inseam) on line squared

E

from

D

is

the half wrist measure plus

F from D

is

the

the.

center between

same

as

and

B.

E from D on

C.

inch for a seam on line squared out from D.

'x

line

down from

drawn from E through D.

Finish the sleeve as represented.

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

with seam at the middle of the under

First

A-B-C-D E-F

is

is

make One

arm

Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as follows

the original sleeve.

about the middle of the under-sleeve.

Cut through the sleeve so, that

B-C should be placed

at

to

E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve

A-D

accordingly the notches, and

mark over

the

new

sleeve

ar represented.

By using

this

kind of a sleeve be careful that the

correspond with the seam of the sleeve.

side

seam

of

the

garment should


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

One

C

Piece Tight Sleeve

E

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

with seam at the middle of the under arm

73


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

74

and Lapels

Collars

for button stand at the center of front for single breasted

Allow

1

to 2 inches, for

double

breasted 3 to 4 inches.

Showl Collar Diagram

1

the shoulder point.

1 is

inch. is 2 from 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 from 2 is }4 inch more than the width of the back neck on Square up and down from 4. '4 inches. 5 from 4 is 6 from 2 is J4 inches. 7 from 4 is the width of the collar desired. Allow about 4 inch for spring at point 7. Shape the collar and lapel as represented. 1

I

line

drawn from

3

through

2.

1

1

'

Single Breasted Lapel

and Notch Collar

Diagram 2

From

to 7 are the

1

and

finish the lapel

same points

by the Showl Col ar (Diagram

as described

1),

then

),

then

collar as indicated.

Double Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar Diagram 3

From

to 7 are the

1

and

finish the lapel

same points

by the Showl Collar (Diagram

as described

1

collar as indicated.

Two

Piece Collar Diagram 4

First

mark

2 from is 3 is the end 1

4 from

2

is

5 from 2

is

6

the front

and back, then continue

as follows:

the shoulder point.

1 is

is

!/4

1

inches.

of the

break of

lapel.

the width of the collar desired. 1

'4 inches.

by drawing a line from 2 to 3. Shape the collar and lapel as indicated by points

located

Finish the front collar as represented. Trace over the lapel by breaking the paper

2-3-4.

on the crease

line 2-3,

and

finish

the

lapel

as represented.

7-8 is the back neck. 9 from 7 is 2' 2 inches. 10 from 9 is the same width 1 1

from

1

is

shoulder so

the

as 8 from

same length

much

as point 4

7

as 4 from 5 is

on the

line

on the

squared out from

front

and

is

outside from the front shoulder.

Finish the back collar as represented.

9.

locr.ted inside

from the back


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Collars

and Lapels

75


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

76

Collars is the width as desired. Finish the collar as represented. outer leaf of the collar line

9 from 6

Ulster Collar Diagram 1-2.

Draw

A

The

through 2 to 3. inch more than the width of

a line

from

must be

3 from 2 is '4 the back neck. 4 from 3 is '4 inches on hne squared down from 3. '4 inches on line squared down is 5 from

Roll and Button

High Collor

Diagram E

1

1 is

the shoulder point.

1

1

from

9-7-8

slightly stretched.

1

'4 inches. 2 from is 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 2. Draw a a line from 4 through to 5. the width of 5 from is '4 inch more than the back neck. 6 from 5 is '4 inches on line squared down from 5. 7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on line squared up from 5. 8 from 7 is o inch for spring. I

1

1

a straight Hne from 5 to 4. a Hne for the collar stand from 5

Draw Draw

through 2 to

1

3.

6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on squared out from 3. 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. Shape the collar as indicated.

line

1

i

Standing or Military Collar

'

Diagram B

Finish the collar as represented.

through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a Hne from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is inch. 5 from 3 is inch. '4 inches. is 6 from Shape the collar as representend. 1

of

Standing Lay Down Collor from two pieces Diagram F

I

1

1

1

which was produced accordingly Diagram B. '4 inches, and is the same length 5 from is from 2. from 2 as 6 from 2 is the width of the collar deyired on line draw from 2 through 3. 7 from 6 is 2 inch for spring. 1-2-3-4

is

the standing collar, 1

1

Standing Rolling Ulster Collar Diagram C through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a line from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of neck. back the 4 from 3 is '4 inches on line squared down from 3. '4 inches. is 5 from Shape the collar stand from 5 through 1

1

'

Finish the collar as represented.

Storm Collar

1

1

2 to

Diagram

G

1

3.

is the width of collar desired on squared down from 4. 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring.

6 from 4

Shape the

collar as indicated.

The stand

at 5-2-3 is to

line

be stretched.

Standing Rolling Miltary Collar Diagram D through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a line from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is inch. inch. 5 from 3 is '4 inches. 6 from is the width of the roll collar as 3 is 7 from 1

For producing this collar take a standing collar and cut it in three pieces. 1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of three part,

7-8 are produced by dividing the top line

of

the collar of three parts. Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so far as much fullness you desire and finish the collar as represented. Allow for seams betw^een the pieces.

Flat Collor Diagram H

I

1

1

1

desired.

8 from

7 is

'

J

inch for spring.

For producing this collar put to gether the front and back at the shoulder so, that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and mark the collar to the shape desired.



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

78

Cape

Circular Diagram

A

Draw

B C

from A from B

a line from

A

through

B.

D

the Back waist-length measure.

is

by applying a tight-fitting back pattern 2 inches, by a semi fitting back and by a loose box pattern j inches, coat back pattern draw line A-B on the

back center line of te pattern. is located by placing the back and together

is

the

at

seams

and

'

1

1.

they should overlap;

off

finish

front

the shoulder so, that figuring

the

circular

'4

inch,

cape as

rep-

resented.

Cape with One Shoulder Dart Diagram

To produce

cape with one shoulder

a

dart continue on the circular cape (Diagr.

1)

2.

der dart.

from

J

as follows:

A

and D.

E

is

the center between

F

is

located by a line squared out from E.

is

located by a line

G H I

from F from G

the length of shoulder.

is

the half

we want

amount

to take out for

is

same

as

I

from G.

Take

out fulness H-l-J-H.

F-

will

seam F-H.

and it form a shoulder dart F-H-F as represented

on Diagram

of fulness,

the

the shoulder

Join together lines H-i with H-J,

drawn from E through

is

G

Open

producing a shoul-

2.

Allow^ for seams at the shoulder dart,

which

and

finish as represented.

Cape with Two Shoulder Darts Diagram

To Produce

a

cape with two shoulder

darts continue on the circular cape (Diagras follows

K

:

from F

is

L from G

is

M

I)

'

'

2

inch.

2

inch.

K is the shoulder length on line drown K to L. N from K is ^2 inches. from from

3.

O.

Q

frpm L is to be taken out fulness as desired. from L is to be taken out fulness as desired. S from P the same as Q from L. T from P is the same as R from L. Open the shoulder seams from K to and from N to O. Take out fulness R-M-Q and S-O-T.

R

M

Join together lines

1

O P

M

is 3 inches and from from shoulder length. is

located

by drawing

a line

from

N

is

the

M through

with

T-O

to forni the

Allow

for

as represented.

seams

R-M

with Q-M, also S-O

two shoulder

darts.

at the darts,

and

finish


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Capes

79


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

80

Yoke

To produce

a yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that

they should overlap

'4

inch for

figuring

the

seams

off,

and

finish the

represented.

Hood

The hood

A-B

is

is

constructed from a cape as follows

inches, or

1

C

from B

D

from

C

is

E

from

D

is

is

1

one I

more

or less accordingly style or taste.

inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches. third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches.

inch.

Finish the hood as represented.

yoke as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Yoke

Hood

81


4 3

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

82

Cape Coat

To produce Take a points

a

Cape Coat proceed as

loose box coat pattern

follows

and mark the

direction,

same

front

as

it

is

represented by

1-2-3-4-5-6-1. Place the back part so that points 9 and

one

:

and

in the

direction as points

Mark

same time be I

and

1

from 4

is

I

and

7.

allowed for fulness desired.

front of the

The back

of the

in

by points 7-8-9-10-11-12-7,

Shape the side seam as represented by points

The

and 8 should be

2.

the center between

is

should be with points 3 and 4 in

careful that points 7

the back pattern as represented

1

1

Cape Coat Cape Coat

is

is

1

3

-

2 - 14.

6-13-2-14-5-6. 12-13-2-14-11-12.

the


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Cape Coat

Te

AS

.1=:^—

83


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

84

Cape with Kimono Sleeves

First

produce a Cape Coat as described on page 82, then continue as follows:

Draw a

straight line

1

5

from

I

5

from 2

1

3

is

is

from

1

3 through 2

till

1

5.

the sleeve length desired.

the

same length

Draw^ a curved line from

I

as

5 to

1

1

5

from

2.

6 as represented.

front

is

13-2- 15- 16- 14-5-6-13.

The back

is

13-2-15-16-14-11-12-13.

The


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Cape with Kimono

Sleeves

85


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

86

Coat with Kimono Sleeves

A

A. Square both ways from

B C

from

D

from

A A A

from

E

from B

as represented.

9 from L

is

the Scye depth measure.

10 from

is

the Back waist length measure.

1 1

is

the

full

plus

4

down from

A

J from

K L

from B

N

from

M

Q

from

I

12 from 4

is

'2

13 from

is

1/4 inches.

14

by a

is

squared out from K.

inch

''s

B-E

plus 2 inches.

than B from A.

less

a

from

line

A

G

is

T

from S

is

W

from

X Y

from

R

W

is

A

is

2 from C

is

from

1

3

is

more than

inch

•4

's 1

K

a

line

from

A

5

is

located by a line squared

6 from 4

is

7 from

is

5

1

line

down from

4.

'4

and

is

the

/o

inch wider

13

is

is

I

17

a

line

from

same length from

2*2 inches.

the

is

from

5

1

R

as L-9.

than

1

from

14

as 8 from

1

I

I

17

is

0.

same length

and

shape

0.

located by a line squared

is

19

is

'4

down from

inch.

located by a line squared

down from

20-Y. 21

Allow

is

2 '4 inches.

2 inches for single breasted

but-

ton stand and finish the front as represented.

inch.

/<!

Seam allowances

inches.

located by a line

and a

I

22 from

2.

12

G.

21

drawn

T

same length

18 from 19

from

9.

20 from

the center beetwen S and M.

7

E.

inch.

is

is

from A.

down from

4

8

from G.

'2 inches.

by

located

through

is

from

as

located by a line squared

is

R

2 inches.

line

located by a line squared out from 15

is

the

3/4 inches. r'4 inches less than

is

located by drawing

is

16

drawing a

3.

I

through

17 from

through Q.

S from

15

inch.

by

located

is

and

inch.

'4

is

line

part of

'4

is

5

through

the half of E-G.

located by drawing

is

10

a line squared

9.

inches.

2/4 inches. is

located

is

from

line

-

part of B-E.

S/li

is

A

M R

/4

is is

I

from

a

C Y and

Finish the back as represented.

E

from

from

1

located by drawing

is

inches.

G

inch.

'4

is

parallel with line

length desired.

the half Bust measure

is

28 '4 inches.

is

7

drawn from 6 through

sqarad out from

1-3.

of

's

For a whole back take center

's

inch allowed. off at the

inch seam as represented.

back


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Coat with Kimono Sleeves

87


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

88

Raglan Coat

up

First lay

all

points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows

1

is

located by a line squared

2

is

located by a line squared

3 from

C

is

F.

down from

E.

:

inch.

1

4 from D

is

l^ inch.

5 from F

is

;)4

Z

is

6 from

down from

inch.

'4 inches.

1

Finish the back as represented.

7 from F

8 from 9 from

is

J4 inches.

1

is

I

inch.

I

10 from

G

is

1

11 from

R

is

1

12 from 10 by

7 from

a line from 14 to the

12

is

the

3

is

'4

1

Draw

19 from

is

2

21 from

1

arm scye below

same as

15

is

located

%

point

V

as represented.

inch above the line drawn from 14 to below V.

from 11.

from

this line

''4

1

inch below

L

to the

arm scye

at

the back as represented,

and

inch.

inch.

•4

is

is

inch,

1

and draw the crease

is

line.

the desired length.

located by drawing a line from

23 from 22

1

'4

off the

18 through 19.

inches.

shoulder pieces from the front and back and add

top sleeve as represented to In this draft are off,

and

10,

a line from 18 through 19 for the front centre. Allow 2 inches for button stand. 3

A

Cut

squared up from

/^ inch.

is

Draw

20 from

line

pivoting at point 10.

inch.

a line

18 from E

is

from 10 on

R

/4 inch.

is

shape above

22

as 11

located by drawing a curwed line

16 from 1

same length

2|4 inches.

is

R

Draw is

inches.

swesped forward from

13 from 10

15

inch. '4

the

is

a line

14 from

inch.

'4

is

Z

's

make

these

inch seams allowed except where the shoulder

has to be allowed for seams.

pieces to the

the raglan sleeve.

pieces were cut


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Raglan Coat

J3_I2

89


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

90

Deep Armhole Coat

Diagram

First draft

1

and cut out a coat with Kimono sleeves as described on page 86,

then

continue as follows

Lay together the

%

front

and back

inch for taking the seams

1-2-3-4-5-6-7-1 is the 8-9-10-11 -12-13-14-8

off,

at the

shoulder seam

so, that

they shoald

overlap

and mark the coat from one piece.

front.

the back.

is

Diagram 2 15

is

the center between 7 and

16 from

15

17 from

15

18 from 4 19 from

11

%

is is is

is

inch,

the

same

2 inches,

the

more

same

8.

or less accordingly style or taste.

as 16 from 15.

more

or less accordingly style or taste.

as 18 from 4.

Shape the seams from 16

to

18 and from

1

7 to

19 accordingly

style

or

ta.ste

as

represented.

20 from

16

is

the

same length

as the shaped line

and

is

shaped inside

19 and

is

shaped inside

is

from 16

to 18

is

from 17

to

accordingly fullness desired under the arm.

21 from 17 the

is

the

same way

same length

as the shaped line

as point 20.

Finish the draft ss represented.

By

cutting out the patterns allow for

seams

at lines

16-18, 16-20, 17-19 and 17-21.


JTiEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Deep Armhole Coat

Diagram

Diagram

1

2.

91


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

92

One

This pattern

Lap over

A

esented by

is

Piece Coat

constructed from a semi

-

fitting

the two front parts at the bust of

and

and open the patterns

B,

'4

at the

block pattern as follows

:

inch for taking the seams off as rep-

hip line of

I

inch as

C

to D.

r

By applying the

same

method be

this

direction as

E-

careful that the notches at the w^aist line

F.

Put together the front and back

Lay over the two back patterns as represented by

I

Continue the a

same with

S

is

is

line

whole back

at

the side

seam

at

the shoulder of

N-O

is

'4

be

H.

-

inch for taking the seams off at the

hip line at K.

L - M.

the

seme

direction as

points

P-Q

and connect

in

to the length desired.

required, take off

for button stand as

the end of the crease 1

G

and put together the same pattern

's

a straight line.

Allow

R

J,

at

careful that the notches at the waist line should

Be

If

and

should be in

much line.

inch from the neck point.

Finish the draft as represented.

desired.

inch seam

at

the


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

One

Piece Coat

93


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

94

New Market

To make

a

New

Market Coat or a Skirted Jacket proceed as follows

:

Cut out the pattern as represented by the upper diagram. Cut

off

Put the

the skirt at the waist line as represented skirt pieces together so,

waist and hip for taking

off

the

that

they should

seams and mark the

ted by heavy line on the diagram below.

by

1

-2-3-4-5.

overlap

skirt in

U inch

at

the

one piece as represen-


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

New Market

95


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

96

Inverness

First lay

from

1

2 from

Z Y

up

/4 inch.

is

2/4 inches.

Connect points

3 from

A

points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows

all

is

the

is

C-

I

and

I

-

2 for the fashionable waist line.

length measure.

full

Square out from 3 as represented.

4 is located by a line squared down from M. 5 from C is /4 inch. 6 from A is '}^ inch. 7 from L is ^^ inch. 8 from 4 is Y2 inch. 9 is located by drawing a line from P through

8.

Finish the back as represented.

10 from

Z

Yz inch.

\s

located by drawing a line from

11

is

12-

from 4

13

is

E through

10.

M

12,

3 inches.

is

located by drawing a line from

through

and

is

from

M

the

same

length as

9 from M.

14 from 15 from M 16 from R I

17

is

is

1

is is

I

inch.

3 inches. ^'4

inch.

the center of

Draw 18 from F

a line

A-B. from

1

6 through

1

7.

the Sleeve length measure.

is

19

is

located by a line

sweeped from 18 pivoting

20

is

located by a line

sweeped from

21 from

19

Allow

is

I

16. 16.

inches for single breasted,

33^2

at

inch.

for button stand 2'

22 from 6 is inch. 23 is the length of the crease Draw a line from 22 to 1

point

18 pivoting at point

2

I

line.

23.

Finish the draft as represented.

16-20-18-21

is

the cape.

inches for double breasted.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Inverness

97


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

98

Opera Cloak Measures Scye depth 7/4 inches.

Bust 40 inches.

Back waist length 15/^ inches. Full length 50 inches.

Waist 26 inches. Hips 41 inches.

To Draft 1.

as represented. Square both ways from is the Scye depth measure. length measis the Back waist 1

2 from 3 from

1

I

ure.

3

is

6 inches.

5 from

1

is

the

Square out

length mesure.

full

from

lines

2,

3,

2

Yi inch.

is

21 from 8 is the same as 16 from I. 22 from 2 is the same as 2 from 23 from 22 is 33^4 inches. 24 from 23 is the same as 3 from

1

4.

2,

in

6 inches.

is the same as 12 from lO on squared up from 23. from 22 is r'4 inches less than 25 from

line

is

26

is

one-quarter of the Bust meas-

27 from

23.

1

2

inches.

9 is located by a line squared down from 8. 10 from 8 is half of the distance 2-8, 6 inches. Square up from 10 as represented. 1 1 from 6 is /4 inch. 12 is located by drawing a line from throubh 13 is the center of 2-8. in this case

is

2 inches.

14

is

/s inch less than line

squared

the

up

is

half

of

the

distance

Scye from

2-13,

3 inches.

17 is located by a line squared up from 16. 18 from 15 is 2 inch on line drawn from 3

17 through

15.

14

is

1

inch.

22

is

1

inch.

21

Sweep 1

14.

in this case

25 is the same as 18 from 17 on drawn from 25 through 26.

28 from 29 from 30 from

is

about

1;'4

on

inches

line

line

from 29

to

28

pivoting

at

point 30.

31 from 25

is

32 from

is

on

3

depth measure on

line

squared up from 21.

1

1

1

1

25 from 23

ure plus 2 inches, in this case

1

this' case

534 inches. 234 inches on line squared out

is

1

7 from 6 from 6. 8 from 2

16 from

the center of 14-15.

1

4 and 5 as

represented.

14 from 15 from

is

1

4 from

6 from

19

20 from

2 inches.

/^ inch more than 16 from 1 squared out from 31. located by a line squared out from 24.

31

line

33 is 34 from 9 is 3i2 inch. 35 from 33 is 234 inches. 36 from 35 is Yl inch. 37 is located by a line drawn

from

through 36.

38 from

37

is

1

inch.

Finish the draft as represented.

24


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Opera Cloak

99


5 6

:

:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

100

Manipulation of Fronts and Backs

The Back The back

part

is

drawn by heavy

and

lines,

is

constructed with a seam

at

the back

center.

If

no seam

Draw Cut 4 to

w^anted at the back center proceed as follows

is

a straight line from

5-3-2-5 and add

piece

off the

through 2

I

to

the

5.

same

to the

back as represented

from

6.

Take

seam

off the

j'g

from

inside

line

I

-

5 as represented

by

line

7.

The Front The

front part

is

drawn by heavy

lines

and

is

constructed with a seam at the front

center.

If

no seam

8- 13-

line

Take out

fulness as

by a

straight line

much you gained

8- 13-

14.

at the front

center

14.

fulness as follows:

1

from

1

1

1

from

1

2

Take

much

out at the front dart so

by drawing the

proceed as follows

at front center,

straight chest line as represented

Continue the

Take

wanted

is

off the

is

the

same

as

is

the

same

as

seam

%

from

I

3

1

4 from

9.

1

0.

inch inside from line 8- 13- 14 as represented by line 17.


TH E AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Manipulation of Fronts and Backs

10

12

101


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

102

Single Breasted Vest

up

First lay

all

points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue

as follows

from

1

2 from

Z Y

inch.

is

"JA.

is

2/4 inches.

Draw

from

lines

C

to

1

and from

through 2 for the fashionable

I

waist

line

as

represented.

3 from C

4

is

2 inches.

is

the half-way between F and M.

5 from 4

is

%

6 from

is

4 inches.

I

inch.

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 4

is

/4 inch.

8 from 2

is

\%

Draw 9 from

G

10 from 9 1 1

is

line

inches.

from E

is

3J4 inches.

is

l^j inches

to 8.

on

line

drawn from 9

located by drawing a line from

1

parallel with line

1-2.

parallel with line E-8.

12 from

11

is

13 from

I

is

2?4 inches.

14 from

10

is

the

15 from 12

is

about 5 inches on line drawn from 12 parallel with line 10-11.

is

the

16 from 17 from

I

14 1

1

J4 inches.

same length

same

U

'2

is

Allow

20 from

is

'4

from 12 on

line

drawn from

14 parallel with line

10-11.

1

inch.

inch.

inch for button stand and finish the front as represented.

3

is

3 inches.

21 from 6

is

3 inches.

Take

15

10.

2*4 inches.

is

18 from the neck gorge 19 from

as

as 12 from

out

as represented.

,'4

inch above line 3-6 and

1

inch below the line 3-6 and finish the skirt


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Single Breasted Vest

103


:

TEH AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

104

Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest

up

First lay

all

points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue

as follows

from

1

2 from

Z Y

inch.

is

/<2

is

2K

Draw

inches.

C

from

lines

to

1

and from

through 2 for the fashionable

I

waist

line

as

represented.

3 from

C

3 inches.

is

is 3 inches. 4 from Draw line from 3 5 from C is 2 inches. 1

6

is

located by drawing a line from

7 from 3

8

is

to 4.

is

10 from

is

%

is

2?^ inches.

is

2 inches.

1

to

5.

F and M.

the center between

9 from 8

A

inches.

/<i

1

inch.

1 1

from 4

12

is

the center between 6 and 9-

13

is

the center between 7 and

11.

10

is

's

inch less than the center between

15 from 14

is

%

inch.

14 from

10 and

5.

Finish the back as represented.

16 from 8

is

17 from 4

is

1

is

1

1

8 from

2

19 from

G

20 from

19

/4 inch.

is is

inch.

%

inches.

3J4 inches.

on

1/^ inches

line

drawn from

19 parallel with line

located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line

21

is

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

from 21

is

1*4

from 22

is

about

from

21

is

2*4 inches.

from 20

is

the

same length

from 25

is

the

same

5

Make

is

H

1

1

-2.

8.

inches on line drawn from 22 parallel with line 20-21.

from the front center

U

-

inches.

from the neck gorge

from

E

as 22 from 20.

as 23 from 22 on line is

'4

line

drawn from 25

parallel with line

20 -21.

inch.

E- 18

is

2^

j,

inches for button stand.

inch.

the french cut as described on

page

36,

and

finish

the front as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest

105


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

106

By applying

the System for Stout or Maternity sizes pay attention to the Waist

Suppression and Hips Development as described on page 20.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Table of Proportionate Measurements For Stout or Maternity Sizes

SIZE

107


:

:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

108

Seam

Semi-Fitting French

For Stout or Maternity Sixes

Measures Scye depth 7*4 inches. Back waist length 15'/) inches.

Bust 39 inches.

Waist 30 inches.

Hips 45 inches

To Draft up

First lay

points to the above meas-

all

urement as described

in

Systematic Out-

then continue as follows

line,

from Z is Jo inch. 2 from Y is 2/4 inches. and from Draw^ lines from C to through 2 for the fashionable waist line 1

I

1

7 from

P

Draw

is

inches.

34

1

J4 inch.

is

inch.

is

1

is

% '4

is

inch.

a line from 6 to

7.

1

A

10 from

to K. 5

is

is

'/(i

inch

more than

the

26

inch.

is

32

is

's

is

3 inches.

is

the

31 from 29 32 from 26

inch.

same

lenth as 29 from

26.

36 from 37 from

6

1

22

inch.

is

34

is

the

same

length as 36 from

17.

38 from 39 from

33

is

29

is

'4

I

inches.

same

the

length as 38 from

The

Systematic waist measure

is

1

4 inch-

es less than the Bust measure, in this case

located by drawing a line

from 8

to

39 less

4

1

25

is

waist measure

from 9 is 3^ inch. from 10 is 1/^ inches. inch. from F is inch. is from by drawing a is located through 15.

inches

Systematic

the

the actual waist

;

measure

30 inches, the half of the difference (2/4 inches) is to be added to

Finish the back as represented.

in this case

is

the dart as follows

40 from

% %

I

29 from 27 30 from 28

dis-

9.

9 as represented.

12 13 14 15 16

draw^ing a line from

32.

tance from 4 to 1 1

by

located

34-26.

inch.

8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or make the width to style or taste. inch more than the distance 9 from 4 is from

is

through 27.

33 from 30 is 3*4 inches. 34 from R is the same width as L to 8. Draw a line from 34 to 26. 35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams. Draw a line from 35 parallel with line

as represented.

3 from C 4 from 3 5 from D 6 from O

28

from 14

line

31

is

2' 2

inches.

41 from 26

is

the

same

from 26. 42 from 33

is

'

>

inch

length as 32 from

more

than 40 from

31.

17 from 15 18 from 8 19 from 6 is

/2 inch.

i

20 from 21 from

1

7

8

is is

^

inch.

;'/K

inch.

/4

the

43 from The

inch.

from

1

is

frorn,_.l6 is

same length

as

O

from

P.

same

the

length as 38 from

Systematic

39 plus 20,

1

add

Hip measure

1

inch

the Bust measure, in this

case

is

40 inches, the

to this the

same

es the half

inch.

from 2 is 2 inches. from G is 334 inches. from 25 is Ij inches on line drawn - 2. from 25 parallel w^ith line 27 is located by drawing a line from 26 parallel with line E-24. 1

I

Compare actual

as

20 plus 2'2 Hip measure. this

it

is

is

40 from

22'2 inch-

vvith the half of

22/2

Hip measure

is

half of this is

31, in this case

34 inch. I

is

more than

Finish the side gore as represented.

22 23 24 25 26

41

32.

(2234);

if

there

is

the

any

off by smallbe added by larger hi.j at points 36, 37, 10 and 13 equally divided. Finish the diagram as represented.

difference,

er hip,

and

it

has to be taken

to


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting French

Seam

For Stout or Maternity Sixes

109


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

no

Waist

Shirt

First lay

up

all

points to your measure

as

described in

Systematical Outline,

then

continue as follows: 1

from Z

2 from

Y

is '/2 is

Draw 3 from C

is

4 from

is

5

is

1

inch.

2'^ inches. lines

4

from C

to

1

and from

4 inches.

Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 is

7 from 4

is

Draw is

as represented.

2 inches.

%

inch.

lines

A-6-7 for

tight-fitting back-,

and

for loose

back draw

line

from

A

to 7.

the center of F-M.

9 from 8

is '/2

10 from 8 1 1

from

12

is

is

inch.

is '/2

1 is

inch.

4 inches.

the center of 1-11.

13 from 12

14

2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.

to

located by a line squared up from D.

6 from C

8

1

inches.

is 2'/2

inches.

located by drawing a line from Finish front

The back

X through E and is from E

the

same

length as 5 from E.

and back as represented.

center for tight-fitting back

is

A-6-7 and for gathering the back at the waist

allow fulness in the waist by drawing a line from

A to

3

as.

represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Shirt

Waist

III


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

112

Waist with Side Gore

Shirt

First lay

up

all

measure as described

points to

in

Systematical Outline then continue

as follows:

from

Z

is '/2

2 from

Y

is

1

Draw 3 from C

4 from 5

is

inch,

2'^ inches. lines

from

is

4

inches.

1 is

4

inches.

C

to 1

and from

1

to

for the fashionable waist line as represented.

2

located by a line squared up from D.

6 from C

8 from

1%

is

M

9 from 8

2 inches.

is

7 from 3

inches.

is 1 '/4 is '/2

inches.

inch.

A

10 from 6

is

1

inch

more than

the space from

11 from 7

is

1

inch

more than

the space from 6 to 10.

12

is

to K.

located by shaping the line from 9 to 10, Finish the back part as represented.

13 from 10

14 from 11 1

5 from F

IG from

is

1 is

Draw 17 from 16

18 from 19

is

is

%

inch.

Wz

inches and

is

from 13 the sams length as 11 from 10

% inch. % inch.

line is

1 is 1

%

from 15

to 16.

inch.

inch.

the centre of 17-18.

20 from 19 21

is

is

ts 2'/2

inches.

located by drawing a line from Finish the side gore

and

X

through E, and

front as represented.

is

from E the same length as 5 from

E


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Shirt

Waist with Side Gore

113


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

114

Tight- Fitting Waist Lining up

First lay

all

points to

measure

as described in Systematical Outline, then

continue

as follows: 1

from Z

is

'/2

Y

is

2'^ inches.

2 from

Draw

inch.

lines

from

C

to

1

and from

1

through 2 for the fashionable waist line as

represented.

3 from

C

is

4 inches.

4 from

1

is

4

5

is

Draw 6 from C 7 from 3

8

is

inches.

located by a line squared lines

2 inches.

is

%

is

up from D.

between 3-4 and 5 as represented.

inch.

the centre of F-M.

9 from 8

1 1

from

12

is

% inch. % inch.

is

10 from 8

is

4

1 is

inches.

the centre of 1-11.

13 from 12

is

2'/2 inches.

Finish back part as represented:

14 from 2 15

is

16 from

G

is

17 from 16

18

is

1%

is

inches.

located by drawing a line from

is

IVz inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2.

is

l'/4

20 from 18

is

2%

inches.

21 from 17

is

the

same length

is

14.

located by drawing a line from 17 parallel with line

19 from 18

22

E through

3'^ inches.

El 4.

inches.

as 19 from 17.

located by drawing a line from 19 parallel with line 14-15.

23 from 22

is

24 from 15

is

4%

inches.

Ye inch.

Finish the front

and back

as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting

Waist Lining

115


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

116

Tight- Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore First lay

up

all

measure as described

points to

in

Systematical Outline, then continue

as follows: 1 from 2 from

Z

is '/2

Y

is

Draw

inch.

2 V2 inches. lines

from

C

to 1

and from

1

through 2 for the fashionable waist line as

represented.

3 from C is 4 inches. 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 5 is located by a line squared up from D. Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 6 from C is 2 inches. 7 from 3

is

1%

inch.

8 from 12 is 1 '^ inches. 9 from 8 is Yz inch. 10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 1 1 from 7 is 1 inch more than the distance from 6 to 10. 12 is located by shaping a line from 9 to 10. Finish back part as represented. from 10 is % inch. from 11 is IV2 inches, and is from 13 the same length as from F is inch, from 1 is inch. Draw line from 15 to 16. 17 from 16 is % inch. 18 from 1 is 1 inch. 19 is the centre of 17-18. 20 from 19 is 2'/2 inches. 21 from 2 is 1% inches. 22 is located by drawing a line from E through 21. 23 from Gis 3!4 inches. 24 is located by drawing a line through 26 parallel with line 25 is located by drawing a line from 24 through 26.

13 14 15 16

1 1

% %

2G is the centre of 24-25. 27 is the centre of 24-26. 28 is located by drawing a 29 from 28 is Vs inch. 30 from 28 is % inches. 31

is

32 33 34 35 36 37 38

from 31

line

from 27 parallel with

located by drawing a line from

30

is 1

from from from from from

is

29

E

21.

parallel with line 21-22.

IVi inches.

inch less than the distance from

32 33

line

inch

more than

is

'^

is

2 inches.

1-2.

A

to

K.

the distance from

26 is the same length as 33 from 26. 34 is 2'^ inches. 22 is Ys inch. Shape front and side gore as represented.

30

to 33.

from 10.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting

Waist Lining with Side Gore

17


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

118

Sleeve Construction for Waist 1

Draw

2 from

a straight line as from

Square a 3 from

4

1 to 2.

the sleeve length measure.

1 is

line

up from

a quarter of the

1 is

2. full

bust measure on a line squared

5

is

the centre of 1-2.

6

is

located by a line squared up from 5.

7

is

the centre of 2-4.

8

is

the centre of 1-3.

Square out a

9 from 8

1.

from

line

from 8 as represented.

2 inches.

is

10 from 8 1 1

up from

located by a line squared out from 3 as represented.

is

lines

12

is

13

is

the centre of 3-10.

inch. inch.

16 from 3

is '/a

17 from 3

is '/a inch.

18 from 6

is

2 inches.

19 from 5

is

3 inches.

20 from

is

2 inches.

Draw a

line

from 4 through 20.

2 1 from 20

is

1 inch.

22 from 20

is

1 inch.

23 from 4

is '/a

24 from 21

Draw

3.

IV2 inches.

is

15 from 13is%

7

1.

between 11-10 and from 10 through

the centre of 10-11.

14 from 12

as 8 from

2 inches.

1 is

Draw

same length

the

is

is

inch.

Vi inch.

all

construction lines as represented.

Sleeve for Waist First

lay

up

all

points

to

measure as described

in Sleeve

Construction

then continue as follows:

Shape the top sleeve as represented dy

Shape the under sleeve

lines

between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-11.

as represented by lines

between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9.

for

waist


JHE AMERICAN

DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sleeve Construction for Waist

Sleeve for Waist

119


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

120

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom

Bishop Sleeve

Place the top- and under sleeves together at

should over lap

-'4

inch for taking the seams

One

off,

the

and

back seam

so,

that

they

finish as represented.

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the top and Cuff

Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam

should overlap

The

'4

Cuff

inch for is

takmg the seams

off,

and

represented by heavy, broken

so,

that

they

finish the sleeve as represented.

lines.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom

Bishop Sleeve

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the top and Cuff

121


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

122

One

First

make

a Bishop Sleeve as described on page

A-B. Draw a straight

C

is

D

from

C

E

from

D is

F from D

is

A

from

line

the center between is

Piece Tight Sleeve

A

and

1

20 and then continue as follows

to B.

B.

the sleeve length measure (inside seam) en line squared the half wrist

the

same

as

measure plus

E from D on

's

line

down from

C.

inch for a seam on line squared out from D.

drawn from E through D.

Finish the sleeve as represented.

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

with seam at the middle of the under

First

A-B-C-D E-F

is

is

make One

arm

Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue

as

fellows

:

the original sleeve.

about the middle of the under-sleeve.

Cut through the sleeve so, that

B-C should be placed

at

to

E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side

A-D

accordingly the notches, and mark over the

of the sleeve

new

sleeve

as represented.

By using

this

kind of a sleeve be careful th

correspond with the seam of the sleeve.

it

the

side

seem

of

the

garment should


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

with seam at the middle of the under

arm

123


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

124

Standing or Military Collar

A. Square both ways from

B C

A

from is

A

D

from

from B

F

is

I

as represented. '4

inch for two seams.

3 inches.

is

3 inches

is

on

the center of line

from E

is

D

is

from

from F

from

squared up from

B.

to E.

inch.

'4

inch.

'4

''4

is

A

line

drawn from D

"4 inch.

is

J from B

K

A

measure plus

the center of A-B.

E

G H

the half neck

is

is

inch. inch.

'4

Shape the Collar as represented. Line

A-C

is

the back center.

High Standing Collar

A. Square both ways from A.

B

from

A

is

the half neck measure plus

C from A is D from B is E from D is

3 inches '4

inch.

F from B

'4

inch.

G

from

C

is is

's

inch fcr one seam.

3 inches.

'4

on

line

squared up from

B.

inch.

Fold the paper on

Shape the

line E-F,

which

collar as represented.

is

the front center.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Standing or Military Collar

High Standing Collar

125


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

126

Dutch Collar Diagram

Lay the Front and Back together lap

%

inch for taking the seams

off

and

1

at the

shoulder

so,

that

they

should over

finish the collar as represented.

Norman

Collar

Diagram 2

Lay lap

A B C

'4

the Front

inch for

and Back together

taking the seams

off

at the

is

the neck point.

is

the point where the collar should end.

from is

A

from

is

A

shoulder

so, that

and continue as follows

they

should

a straight line drawn parallel with the front center of the garment the

same lehgth

as

over

:

and

B from A.

Sailor Collar Diagram 2

Lay lap

'4

the Front

and Back together

at the

shoulder

so,

that

they

inch for taking the seams off and finish the collar as represented.

should

over


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Collars for

DIAGRAM

1

127

Waist

DIAGRAM

2

/ /

.-•^

/'


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

128

Yoke

To produce they

should

a

overlap

Yoke 4

lay the

inch

back and front together

for

figuring

the

seams

at the

off,

shoulder

and

finish

that

so,

the

Yoke

as represented.

Shield

To produce that

a Shield lay the back and

they should overlap

as represented.

\^

inch

for

figuring

front

the

together

seams

off,

at

the

and

shoulder

so,

finish the shield


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Yoke

Shield

129


.

1

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

30

Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves

up

First lay

Z Y

from

1

2 from

is

4

is

C

J

7 from

a line

10 from

is

O

12 from

1

',s

is

as

%

is

line

1

from

on

3

line

O

drawn from

squared up from

inch.

the center between 5 is

15 from

12

6.

through L.

full

length of a regular 36 size

the width of sleeve desired on line squared

is

through

5

8.

the sleeve length desired. (For the

14 from

drawn from

7.

inch on line

sleeve for regular 36 size

13

1

same length

on

/o

is

1

5 to

a line from 3 to

is

11 from 9

from

inches.

the

5 is

Draw

9 from 8

to 2.

between F and M.

is 2J'4

8 from L

and

1

'4 inch.

is

1

to

2 inches.

Draw 6 from

C

the fashionable waist line from

is

the center

5 from 4

points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows;

2*4 inches.

is

Draw 3 from

all

inch.

'

2 inches,

I

I

and

1.

is

12.

drawn from

14 through 12.

Finish the back as represented.

16 from 17 from

R U

is

inch.

'

1;

'4 inch.

is

18 from 16

is

the

same length

19 from

is

the

same width

20

is

18

as

1

1

from 9 on

as 12 from

1

1

line

on

drawn from

line

squared

1

6 through

down from

I

7.

18.

the center between 18 and 19.

21 from

5 is

22 from

21

23 from E

the

is is

same length

the

the

as 14 from

same length

same length

Finish the front

as 15

5.

from 14 on

as 2 from

as represented.

E on

line

line

drawn from

drawn from

X

29 '2 inches.)

(By a

or less accordingly style or taste.

inch on line

is '2

1

6 inches.

is

more

down from

21 through 19.

through E.

full

length


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves

^23_

131


.

1

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

32

One

and cut out

First draft

then continue as follow^s

Lay together the

Piece Butterfly Waist

a waist pattern with

and back

front

-2-3-4-5-6-7-1

IS

at the

mark

inch for taking the seams off and i

kimono

sleeves as described on

page

I

30,

:

shoulder seam

so, that

they should

overlap

'4

the w^aist from one piece.

the front.

8-9-10-11-12-13-14-8

IS

the back.

Waist with Raglan Sleeve

To produce

mark

this pattern, first

a waist with

described above, then continue as follows

15

is

the center between 7 and

16 from 1

7 from

15 1

5 is

18 from 4 19 from

1

is

is

t

'4

the

same

2 inches,

is

the

more

inch,

as

1

more

same

as

1

Shape the seams from

20 from

16

is

the

21 from

1

7 is

same way

the

from one piece as

sleeves

8.

or less accordingly style or taste.

6 from

1

5

or less accorcingly style or taste.

8 from 1

4.

6 to 18 and from

same length

ingly fulness desired

Kimono

:

I

7 to 19

as the shaped line

accordingly style or taste as represented.

is

from

is

from

6 to 18 and

I

is

shaped inside accord-

under the arm.

same length

as the

shaped

line

1

7 to

19

and

is

shaped

inside

as point 20.

Finish the draft as represented.

By

cutting out the pattern allow for

seams

at lines 16-18,

16-20, 17-19

and 17-21.

the


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

One

Piece Butterfly Waist

Waist with Raglan Sleeve

133


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

134

Measurement

1-1

Around

for Skirts

the waist.

2-2 Around the hips about 6 inches below the waist

3-4 Front length 1-5 Side length

6-7 Back length

till

till

till

the floor.

the

the

floor.

floor.

line.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Measurement

for Skirts

135


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

136

Systematic Outline for Skirts

Measurement Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches, inches. Back length 44 inches.

Front length 43

A. Square both ways from

A

B

from

C

from B

A

.,

as represented.

the the half waist

is

'

measure plus

a line from

A

through

C and

is

6 inches.

E from D

is

the half Hips measure on line

this case 21

F

is

located

G

from F

H

from

I

1

'4

line

G

parallel with line

A-C,

in

inches.

the front length, in this case 42 inches.

is

is

D

squared out from E.

from the center of line

J from

drawn from

mches.

by a

is

A

6 inches.

longer.

A

from

1

4 inches on line squared out from B.

is

Draw

D

3 inches, in this case

A-G

is

the side length, in this case 43

the back length on line

drawn from

G

'

_,

inches.

through E.

Finish the bottom as represented.

NOTICE

:

NOT

In

all

Drafts

allowed.

— designed

in this Systematic Outline

— are seams


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Systematic Outline for Skirts

137


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

138

Two Gore

Skirt

High Waisted

First lay

as follows

all

points as

2 from

H

the center of H-J less

is

Systematic

Outline

for

then

continue

of line

A-G, and

Skirts,

A

is

2-2 inches.

6 from

G

is

21 '2 inches.

Connect points 7-8

is

'

2

inches.

2 through

divided by point

is

the center of 1-7.

5-4-6.

the center of

I

of

two equal

parts.

1-8.

1 1 is

located by a line squared out from

12

located by a line squared out from 10.

is

I

the difference between the actual half waist measure

is

is

1

2 inches.

is

I

drawn from

5 from

10

in

:

located by a line

is

4 from

9

described

the center of A-G.

1 is

3

up

13 from

3

is

1

inch.

Finish the skirt as represented.

9.

and the measure


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Two Gore

Skirt

High Waisted

139


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

140

Three or Four Gore Skirt High Waisted

The (See page

I

The

draft for a tfiree or four gore skirt

is

the

same as

for a

two gore

skirt.

38.)

difference

For a two gore

is

in placing the

skirt

seams.

allow seams only on the sides, and no seam at the front

and back. For a three gore

For a four gore

skirt

skirt

no seam on the

seams on the

front.

Seams

front, sides

at the sides

and back.

and back only.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Three or Four Gore Skirt High Waisted

141


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

142

Four Gore (Panel) Skirt First lay

up

points to

all

as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then

measure

continue as follows:

from

A

2 from 3 from

G H

4 from

J

1

is

3 inches.

is

3 inches. 5 inches.

is is

5 inches.

5

is

the centre of 1-2.

6

is

the centre of D-E.

Draw

lines

between 1-3,5-6 and 2-4 as represented.

Measure the waist actual waist

measure

is

For instance from inches; the surplus

is

line

to

from

A

A

to

G

G

to

be taken out

and the

difference between this

measure and the

in darts at points 1-5-2 as represented.

measures 18 inches; the

5 inches. This amount

is

to

half

be taken out

actual waist in darts.

At

measure

is

13

the front (point 1)

take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2

and

two inches, and

at point

half inches as represented.

NOTICE: No seams Allow

for all

seams.

or turning-in

is

allowed for

in this

Systematical Outline.

5 two


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Four Gore (Panel) Skirt

143


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

144

Five Gore Skirt

First lay

up

all

points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue

as follows 1

from

2

is

A

3 inches.

is

the center

3 from

H

4 from

J is

is

between

1

5} 2 inches.

and G.

(Twice as

-A

1

less

and

is

the center between 3

6

is

located by drawing a line from 2 to

to

inch.)

3 inches.

5

The

^j,

difference

be taken out

4.

between the actual

in darts as follows

For instance

5

Take out

inch

\_i

inches at

is

half waist

I

is

2^4 inches.

8 from

2

is

2/4 inches.

9 from

7 is

'4

on

line

of line

A-G

is

point

2

out.

equal divided on both sides, and

equal divided on both sides.

7 from 2

measure and the measure

:

be taken

to

point

5.

squared up from

7.

10 from 8

is

'4

inch on line squared out from

11 from 6

is

'4

inch.

Finish the draft as represented.

8.

4'j

inches

at


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Five Gore Skirt

145


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

146

Gore

Six

First lay

up

BHI Skirt

points to measure as described in Systematic

all

Skirts,

then

half

actual

2 inches

equal

Outline for

continue as follows

from

A

is

3 inches.

3 from

G

is

the

1

2

is

same

as

1

the center between

4 from

H

5 from

J is

6 from 4

is

twice as

the

is

same

I

and

much as 4

3.

as

1

from

A

less '^ inch, in this case 5'

I

o

At the

is

to

1-4, 2-6, 3-5.

be taken out

in darts at

front take out the least

For istance

5

Take out

point

at

inches 1

inches.

inches.

difference betvi^een the measure of the waist line from

waist measure

2

from H.

the center between 4 and 5 less

Draw^ lines between

The

from A.

is

and

at

points 1,2,

A

to

G

and the

3.

the side take out the most dart.

the difference. '

_>

inch, at

divided on both sides. Finish the draft as represented.

point 2

2

'

^

inches, at point 3


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Six Gore Skirt

147


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

148

Seven Gore Skirt

First lay

up

points to

all

measure as described

in

Systematical Outline for Skirts, then

continue as follows: 1

from

2 from 3

is

A 1

3 inches.

is is

one-third of the line from 1 to G.

the centre between 2 and G.

4 from

H

5 inches.

is

5 from 4

is

6 from 5

is

1 inch less 1

Draw

then one-third of 4-5.

inch less than the half-way between 5 and

lines

Measure the waist actual waist

J.

between l-4,2-5and 3-6 as represented.

measure

is

For instance from inches; the surplus

is

line

to

from

A

A

to

G

G

to

be taken out

and the

difference between this

in darts at points

measure and the

1-2-3 as represented.

measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure

5 inches. This amount

is

to

be taken out

in darts.

At the

is

13

front (point 1)

take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches,

and

and

at point

half inches as represented.

NOTICE: No seams Allow

for all

seams.

or turning-in

is

allowed for

in this

Systematical Outline.

5

two


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Seven Gore Skirt

149


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

150

9 Gore Flare Skirt

up

First lay 1

A

from

2'

is

points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows

all

inches.

j

2-3-4 are located by dividing the waist line from

5 from

H

6 from

J is

twice as

is

about 2'

2

much

as

from

I

A

less

J^o

1

between

lines

Measure the waist actual half waist

G of

four parts.

inches.

7-8-9 are located by dividing the bottom line from

Draw

to

inch, in this case 4^4 inches.

1-5, 2-7,

from

line

A

to

G

6 of four parts.

and the difference between

measure

is

to

be taken out

A

to

G

is

For instance from

5 to

3-8 4-9.

18 inches

;

this

measure and the

in darts at points 1,2, 3, 4.

the actual half waist measure

is

I

3

inches,

is

surplus 5 inches.

This

inches

5

is

to

be taken out

in darts

the most. In this case take out at point 1^4 inches, at point 4

For making the taste,

;

at the front take

'4 inch, at

flares place points 10, 11,12,

and allow fulness

out the least and at the side

point 2

I

'4

inches, at point 3

inches equal divided on both sides.

'4

I

1

at the

1

3 as

high desired accorcingly style or

bottom towards the back always more and

the front.

For instance

:

14 from

5 is

15 from

5 is

I

inch.

16 from

7 is

1

inch.

7 from

7 is

1

'

1

inch.

2

/^ inches.

18 from 8

is

19 from 8

is

2 inches.

20 from 9

is

2 inches.

21 from 9

is

2*2 inches.

if

1

2

1

inches.

you wish

22 from

G

23 from

J

is is

Make

1

flaring at the

back and a

slit,

proceed as follows

:

3 inches.

in this case 3 inches.

the

slit

about

1

'

2

inches wide and finish the draft as represented.

less

towards


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

9 Gore Flare

Skirt

15!


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

152

1 1

First lay

up

all

Gore Flounce

points as

Skirt

Systematic Outline

described in

for

Skirts,

then

continue as follows 1

from

A

is

2 inches.

2, 3, 4,

5 are located by dividing the waist

6 from

H

7 from

J is 2}-i

8, 9, 10,

is

line

from

I

to

G

of five parts.

3*2 inches.

inches.

11 are located by dividing the bottom from 6 to 7 of

Draw

lines

between

Measure up the

1-6, 2-8,

v^^aist line

3-9 4-10, 5-11.

from

A

to

measure and the half actual waist measure 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,

18

Cut out the flounce

Allow fulness

are located

G is

and the

to

be taken out

one

between

this

in darts as represented.

of the flounce.

piece.

bottom of the flounce towards the back always more as

represented by the shaded hues and cut out the represented by double

difference

by marking the hight

(18-! 2-H-J-18) in

at the

five parts.

lines.

new

flounce from

one piece as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

11

Gore Flounce

Skirt

153


1

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

54

13 Gore Plaited Skirt

up

First lay

continue as follows

A

is

2, 3, 4, 5,

6

1

from

7 from

H

8 from

J is

I

J

V

i

then

or less accordingly style or taste.

by dividing the waist

much

as

line

is

I

from

1

to

G

of six equal parts.

from A.

inches. six equal parts.

13 are located by dividing the bottom of

9, 10, 11, 12,

Connect points

The

more

are located

3 inches, or twice as

is

Skirts,

for

:

inches,

.,

Systematic Outline

points as described in

all

difference

waist line from

E

1-7, 2-9, 3-10, 4-1

1

between the actual

to

G

is

to

,

5-1 2, 6-1 3 for

half waist

be taken out

in darts

the side seams.

measure and the measure of the divided at points

1

2, 3, 4, 5,

,

6

as represented.

By applying an 14 from

G

15 from

J is

inverted plait in the back proceed as follows;

3 inches.

is

6 inches.

Fold your paper at line G-J

till

line 14-15

the plait should not be short at the waist

Allow at the top

plaits at '

1

-

and

trace over the waist

inches,

and

that

line.

each side of the gores as deep at the bottom 2

Finish the skirt as represented.

line,

'

,

plaits

desired.

inches on each side.

For instance


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

13 Gore Plaited Skirt

155


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

156

Circular Skirt

A. Draw a

straight-line as

the half waist measure.

from B

is

6 inches.

D

from

A

is

E from D

is

G

is is

2 inches.

inch on line square

1

D.

pivoting at E, and

line

sweeped from

B,

located

by a

line

sweeped from

C, pivoting at E,

^

2

is

the front length.

is

the back length.

3

the side length,

is

and

is

from

1

about 2 inches

Circular Skirt with

First draft a Circular Skirt as is

is

from

B the

from

C

the

half

Waist measure.

half

Hip

measure

the center of B-F.

4 from

5

is

and

inch.

from B

is

down from

by a

2 from F 3

I

located

plus 1

to

is

from

F

A

from

A

B C

located by drawing a

6 from

5 is

I

line

from

less

One Dart

3 to 4.

inch.

is

the half of fulness to be taken out.

8 from 4

is

the

same

as 7 from

4.

Cut out the fulness between 8-6-7, and join together dart at the waist line as represented

:

1-2.

described above, then continue on the same draft as follows:

7 from 4

NOTICE

than from the middle of

On

this draft

by points

are seams

lines 6-7 with 6-8 to

3-6-3.

NOT

allowed.

produce

tlie


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Circular Skirt

Circular Skirt with

One Dart

157


1

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

58

Circular Skirt in Gores

First

draw

Allow bottom width line

down

a plain skirt in gores as

at the

bottom

to

each gore

of the Systematical Outline

to the

less

gores desired.

fulness is,

as

and draw

much more

desired than the

straight lines

from

the

hip

bottom as represented.

That the fulness should back and

many

towards the

front.

fall

nicely, allow

always more fulness towards the


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Circular Skirt in Gores

159


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

160

Princess Skirt

This draft represents a seven gore princess

up

First lay

follows 1

from

all

skirt.

points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue

as

:

A

inches.

is 3

2 and 3 are located by dividing the waist

4 from

H

5 from

J is

twice as

is

2'

much

as

1

from

A

from

line

less

'

^

1

to

8-9-10 are located by drawing lines from

1

to 5 of three

to 4, 2 to 6, 3 to

11-12-13-14-15-16 are located by taking out darts

at points

pages.

17-18-19-20 are the center

A

22 from

2

23 from

G

of each gore at the hip line.

the girdle as high desired.

For instance

21 from

is is is

:

3 inches.

2

of three equal parts.

inches.

J

6 and 7 are located by dividing the bottom from 4

Make

G

inch.

'

2

inches.

3'j inches.

24

is

located

by drawing a

25

is

located

by drawing

26

is

located by drawing a line from 18 through

line

a line

from 18 through from

I

7

through

12. I

I

I

3.

27

is

located by drawing a line from 19 through 14.

28

is

located

by drawing

29

is

located

by drawing a

a line line

from 19 through from 20 through

Finish the draft as represented.

15. 1

6.

equal parts.

7.

1,2

3,

as described

on previous


JHE AMERICAN

DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Princess Skirt

]6I


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

162

Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width

First lay

up

all

points to measure as described in Systemati; Outline for Skirts (page

then continue as follows 1

from

2

is

H

4

is

2

is

by drawing a the

5 from is

3 is

7 from 6 is

same

a line

line

from

as 2 from

G

1

on

through E. line

drawn from

1

through E.

is

from 4 through

3.

6 inches.

the center

Draw

8

:

the center between A-G.

Draw

6

36),

the fixed bottom width.

is

located

3 from

1

between D-E.

a line

the

from 6 through

same

as

E from

5.

6 on line

located by drawing a line from

1

Measure the back length from 8

drawn from 6 through

through to

I

and

5.

7.

finish the waist

and bottom

This Systematic outline can be used to produce Circular Skirts too.

lines as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

163

Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width


:

:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

164

Skirt for Stout

Measurement

Measures Front length 40 inches. Side length 39 inches.

Waist 40 inches. Hips 50 inches.

Back length 38 inches.

To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, C from B is 2 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C.

D

from

A

E from D

is

is

in this case

23 inches.

6 inches. the half hip measure, in this case 25 inches on line

drawn from

D

parallel

with

this

case

hne A-C.

F

is

located by a line sqared out from E.

G H

from F is I4 inches. from A is the front length measure, in this case 40 inches. side length, in this case 39 inches. 1 from the middle of line A-G is the from G the back length, J is located by drawing a Hne from G through E and is I

in

38 inches.

This diagram represents for instant a

five

gore stout

skirt.

1 from A is and G. 2 is the center between 3 from H is twice as much as from A less 2 inch, in this case 7' j inches. 4 is the center between 3 and J. Draw lines from to 3 and from 2 to 4. The difference between the measure of the waist line from A to G and the and I as represented. waist measure is to be taken out in Darts at points Note that the front dart by stout skirts is larger then by normal skirts. To make wider the bottom, allow fulness at points 3 and 4. Bear in mind that fulness is to be allowed towards the back always more.

the width desired for the front panel, in this case 4 inches. I

'

1

1

half

actual

1

5 6 7 8

For instance from 3 is j inches. from 3 is /4 inches. from 4 is 234 inches. from 4 is 2/2 inches. Draw lines from the hip 1

'

1

line to points 5, 6,

7,

8 and finish the draft as represented.


THEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Skirt for Stout

Measurement

165


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

166

Princess Slip

First cut out a tight-fitting

or a semi-fitting garment

till

the hip line, then

mark each gore

seperate on a piece of paper as represented.

This

A-B,

CD,

a tight-fitting french

is

E-F,

G H,

IJ

is

K-L, M-N, O-P, Q-R, S-T

To

C

is

2 from

D

is

3 from E

is

'

4 from F

is

'4 inch.

G is

5 from

Draw from S,

3

from

'

2

'

2

j

I

is

the hip

line.

down proceed

as follows

:

inch. inch. inch.

inch.

lines

from

A

through K, from B through L, from

through O, from 4 through P, from J

slip.

the waist line.

continue the lines from the hip line

from

1

seam princess

through T.

Finish the length as desired.

3

I

through Q, from

through M, from 2 through N,

H

through R. from

1

through


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Princess Slip

167


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

168

This System It

is

taught by the author only.

has been copyrighted, and any infringement

contested.

will

be

legally


PART TWO

MISSES'

GARMENTS


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

!70

The System Garments;

it is

for Misses'

Garments

is

the

same

as for

only constructed, by special measurement.

Womans'


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Table of Proportionate Measurements For Misses* Sizes

SIZE

(AGE)

171


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

172

Systematical Outline For Misses' Garments

Measurement Waist 24 inches. Hips 39 inches.

Scye depth 7 inches.

Back waist-length

5 inches.

1

Sleeve I7'> inches.

Bust 37 inches.

To Draft A. Draw a

B

from

A

straight line as

A

from

Square out from

to D.

the Scye depth measure, in this

is

N

from

A

the Back

is

in this case

Dfrom C B

A

P

D

and from

C

from

for the Bust line,

G H I

the

for

the

is

case 22'

in this

j

R

E.

is

the half-way between

E and

F.

is

the half-way between B and is

5

'

2

U

K from A to

H,

E, F,

G

and

1

is

is

locatated

M from H

is

K

as represented.

by drawing a

line

from

A

to

J.

and N.

by drawing a

located

G

from

line

A

3*4 inches.

is

from S

is

G

from

R

1

Cut

'4

inches less than the

distance

inch more than

distance

to R. is

s

O

on

line

the point

off

from S

is

the

drawn from at

R

of

R 's

through inch

as

2 inches. Connect U-V.

is

2 inches.

Square out

X

inches.

M

"4 inch.

is

from

B

from

'4i

2 inches.

1

W from R

the half of the distance

in this case 2

drawn from L

inch on line

o

represented.

repre-

as

2'4 inches.

Square out from

L

is

T.

V is

'

from L to

F.]

sented. 1

6's inches.

in this case is

Square out from S as represented.

inches always.

Square out from

as represented.

through Q.

T

inches.

B and

A

N

M

inch less than the Scye depth

's

the half-way between

waist

measure and 4

Bust

half

the half-way between

J from

is

Q from

repre-

as

for the hip line

is

from

from

S from

from B

inches more,

F

O

from

for the top line,

sented.

E

is

through N.

6 inches always.

is

Square out from

line

measure,

waist-length

5 inches.

1

M

measure,

case 7 inches.

C

from

from

W

from

A

Y

is

Z

is

is

'4

froin

inch

W as represented. more than

to K, in this case

located

by

the

distance

3'x inches.

a line squared out

from

E.

located by a line squared out from F.

Notice In all

of

%

Diagrams

designed in this Systematical Outline

arc seasn-aliowance-s

inch allowed.

is the half Waist measdesigned in this Systen'aticai Outline !n all Diagrams ure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 1 74.) is the half Hips measdesigned in this Systematical Outline In all Diagrams inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on page 1 74.) ure !

1


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

173

Systematic Outline For Misses' Garments

'#

Y

^h

^1

%


:

:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

174

Tight Fitting French

Seam

For Misses' Garments First lay

up

all

points

your measure

to

described in Systematical Outline, then continue as folllows as

from

1

2 from

Z Y

is is

'

5 is

length as 26 from 6 1

'x

O

inch, and P. inch.

2'4 inches.

and from Draw lines from C to through 2 for the fashionable waist line as I

I

represented.

is

I

is 's inch for seam. Finish the back and side gores represented. 28 from 14 is '4 inch, and fr 13 the length as 4 from 3. 29 from 15 is ^ inches. 30 from 2 is '4 inches. 31 IS located by drawing a ine from 1

3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is '4 inches. 5 from O is '4 inch. 6 from P is '4 inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. 7 is the half-way betw^een 5 and L, or make the width to style or taste. 8 from 3 is inch less than A to K. 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 as I

1

represented. inch 10 from 4 1 1 from 8 4 inch.

more than

I

through 30. 32 from 31 is 's inch. 33 from G is 3 '4 inches. 34 from 33 is 2 inches on 33 parallel with line 1-2.

35

from

line

13

1

1

I

34.

through 14. 3. is the half-way between 9 and and 14. is half-way between is located by drawing a line from 16 through 7. 19 from 7 is Vj inch. 20 from 7 is 'a inch. 21 from 8 is inch. 22 from 8 is inch. 23 from 13 is '2 inch. inch higher 24 from 7 is '.'x inch, and from the line L-5.

16 17 18

I

1

I

located by drawing a line from 36 with line E-31. from 39 is 4 '4 inches. from R is the same width as L to 7.

par-

is

allel

40 41

Draw a 42 from 41 Draw a

line is

from 41

to 34.

inch for seams.

'4

line

from 42

with

parallel

line

41-34.

1

I

frc

located by drawling a line from 34 parwith line E-30. from 35 is /4 inches. from 35 is 2;'4 inches. from 34 is the same length as 36 from

39

'

1

line

is

36 37 38

3 to 8.

I

1

I

'

1

allel

inch. 12 from 10 13 from F 4 inch. _ 14 _ _ from 4 inch. 15 is located by drawing a

1

6 the

fr

from

27 from 26

inch.

^

25 from

43 from

1

4

is

the

same length

as

29 from

is

1'4 inches. the same length

as

44 from

28.

44 from 40 45 from 36

is

38.

i

Finish the front as represented.

Waist Suppression Waist measure by 37 Bust figure the half waist as follows: Half Bust 17' ^

By applying

this

System the

half

is

7 inches less than the half

less 7 is

II

Bust measure. For instance

'^ the half waist.

Now

change the

draft a

follows

Systematic half Waist measure

Actual half Waist measure

is

is

!

' I

.)

inches.

12 inches.

hlips

by

Bust measure; in

this

There is missing y:-, inch in Waist. This inch is to be added to the waist and and 40. Point 37 from 35 will be only 2 '4 inches, and point 40 from 39 is '.'4 inches. ^

.',

the

also to

the dart at points 37

Hip Development By applying

this

System the

case the Systematic Hip measure

is

therefore the half Hip measure

is

is

half

Hip measure

is

'

.1

inch

more than

the half

19 inches. By correcting the Waist measure the

now

H j^

inches,

and as the actual

half hip

half hlip

measure

is

measure gained also

IS:

'

-,

],<^inc'i-i,

inches, there

nothing else to change at the Hip. If

the actual half Hip measure would be for instance

points 43, 29, 21,

22 equal divided and vica

verse.

20

inches, a half inch ought to be

added

at

the


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight Fitting French For Misses' Garments

Seam

175


1

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

76

Semi-Fitting with dart in Front For Misses' Sizes

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' Garments, then continue as follows 1 from Z is 1-2 inch. 2 from Y is 2/i inches. through 2 for the fashionable waist line as and from Draw lines from C to :

1

I

represented.

3 from

C

4 from

3 is /4 inch.

is

5 from D 6 from P 7 from

is is

H

8 from 4 9 from 3

/o inches.

I

inch.

i

inch.

'^4

inch.

is j'4 is

inch

I

inch

'4

is

more than the distance from A to K. more than the distance from 4 to 8

Finish the back as represented.

10 from 8

is

/o inch.

from 9 12 from 6 13 from F 14 from

is

1

1 1

1

/o inches.

34 inch.

is is

'4

inch.

is

'4

inch.

15 is located bo drawing 16 from 14 is '2 inch.

a line

from

1

3

through

14.

Finish the side gore as represented. 1

7 from

18 from 19 from

is

1

1

2

is

Draw 20 from

G

and

is

from F the same length as

1

6 from

inch.

1

2 inches.

from

line

is

1

'

E

through

9.

inches.

is 3,'4

21 from 20

22 23 24 25 26 27 28

inch,

!'2

5 is

j

inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19

is

located by drawing a line from 2

is

located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19.

from frcm from from from

22 24

is

Vo inch.

is

3 inches.

21

is

the

23 27

is j'^

same length

1

parallel with line E- 9. 1

as 24 from 21.

inch.

is 3/4 inches. Finish the front as represented.

29 from 16 30 from 28

is

31 from 24

is

is

the I

same length

as 18 from

I

7.

'4 inches.

the

same length

as 30 from 26.

Finish the bottom as represented.

I

3.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting with dart in Front For Misses' Sizes

177


:

1

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

78

Sac Coat with Loose Front For Misses' Sizes

up

First lay

all

points to your

meaure as described

in

Systematic Outline, then continue

as follows

from

1

Z

is

'

inch.

2

2 from Y is 2^4 inches. Draw lines from C 3 from C is /'o inches.

to

I

and from

1

to 2 for the fashionable waist line

as

represented.

I

4 from 5 6 7 8 9 10

3 is

^

inch.

inch. from D is is '4 inch. from from 6 is ,'4 inch. from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. is located by drawing a curved line from from 5 is '4 inch more than 8 from 4. 1

M

7 to

8 as represented.

Finish the back as represented.

11 from 8 is 3^2 inch. 12 from 10 is ^4 inches. I

from F is y> inch. is from 2 inch. from 14 is 2' 2 inches and is located by drawing a from 4 is 's inch. inch. 4 is 1 7 from 18 from 2 is '2 inch. 19 from A is the length of garment desired. 20 is located on line squared out from 19. 21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. is the same length as 20 from 8. 22 from

13 14 15 16

'

1

line

from 13 through

14,

I

%

1

I

1

23 from R is inch. 24 is located by a line squared down from S and 25 from 24 is /^ inch. 26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through !

is

below the fashionable waist

2 '2 inches

and

is

the

from 26 through 25 and

is

the

I

5

line.

half of the pocket size, in this

case 3 inches.

27

is

located

6 inches. 28 from S is

by drawing a

line

full

pocket

size,

in

this

inch.

1

29 from G is 2 inch. 30 is located by drawing '

a line from 28 through 29,

Finish the draft as represented.

and

is in this

case 5 inches long.

case


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sac Coat with Loose Front Fcr Misses' Sizes

179


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

180

Loose Box Coat For Misses' Sizes

up

First lay

points as desca-ibed in Systematica] Outline for Misses' sizes, then continue

all

as follows

from

1

2 from

Z Y

is

inches.

is 2':^

Draw 3

'2 inch.

is

from

lines

4 from

3

is

's

inch.

5 from

3 is

's;

inch.

inch

6 from

is

'.^

7 from 6

is

I

8 from C

is

A

is

10 from L

is

9 from

1

from

R

12 from

2

1 1

13 from

14

is

16 from 4 17

is

I

more than

F.

nch.

' I

nch.

'

_;

a line from

E through

12.

the length of garment desired.

by a

line

squared out frorh

19 from

I

the

1

7 is I

is

Allow

1

3.

'o inch.

is

is

from

5

same length

as

I

5

from

located by a line squeired out from

18 from

through 2 as represented.

I

nch.

'4

is

14

and from

nch.

'

located

15 from

1

nch.

'4

is

A

to

inches.

'_|

is

Draw

C

way between F and M.

the half

1

I

for

'

4

5.

1

3.

inches.

inch.

buiton stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted.

Finish the draft as represented. If

center.

you wish

to

have the back center without any seam, take

off

's

inch

at

the

back


JTH E

AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Loose Box Coat For Misses' Sizes

181


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

82

Blouse For Misses' Sizes

First lay

up

all

for Misses' Sizes,

points to your

then continue as follows

from

Z

is

,'2

2 from

Y

is

2*4 inches.

1

Draw

measure as described

in

Systematic

Outline

:

inch.

lines

from

C

to

I

and from

I

to 2 for the fashionable waist line

as

represented.

3 from

4

is

C

is

2 inches.

the half-way between

5 from 4

is

6 from

is

1

'4

F and M.

inch.

4 inches.

Finish the back as represented

7 from 4

8

is

is

located

2

from E.

'4

inch.

by drawing a

line

from

X

Finish the front as represented.

through E, and

is

from

E

the

same length as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Blouse For Misses' Sizes

183


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

184

Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments Measurement

for size 16

Bust 37 inches. Sleeve length (inside seam) l?'^ inches. 1

Draw

2 from

a straight line as is

I

Square a

3 from

4 5 6 7

8

is

I

from

1

to 2.

the sleeve length measure. line

up from

a quarter of the

2. full

bust measure on line squared

is

located by a line squared out from 3 as represented.

is

the center of

is

located by a line squared

is

the center of 2-4.

is

the center of

up from

I

plus

I

inch.

1-2.

up from

5.

i-3.

Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from is 2 inches. 1 1 from through Draw lines between 11-10 and from I

1

I

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

20

is

the center of 10-11.

is

the center of 3-10.

3.

from 12 is U inch. from 3 is I'i inches. from 3 is 2 inch. from 3 is J inch. from 6 is 2 inches. from 5 is 3 inches. from 7 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 1

'

'

21 from 20 is 22 from 20 is 23 from 4 is

'

I

inch.

I

inch.

J

24 from 21 is Draw all '

inch. J

inch.

construction lines as represented.

Sleeve for Misses' Garments

up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1 I. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. First lay

I


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments

23^;

22

185


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

186

Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts

Measurement Waist 24 inches, Hips 39 inches, Front length 40 inches, Side length 41/2 inches. Back length 42 inches.

A. Square both ways from

A

B

from

C

from B

A

as represented.

the half waist measure plus 3 inches,, in this case

is

4 inches on line squared out from

is

Draw

a line

from

A

through

C and

A

is

6 inches.

E from D

is

the half Hips measure on line

D

from

19'

F

is

located

from F

H

from

is

A

is

by a 1

'4

line

B.

longer.

drawn from

D

parallel with line A-C. in

this

case

G

is

sqared out from E.

inches.

the front length, in this case 40 inches.

from the center of

J from

inches.

inches.

2

G

I

5

1

line

A-G

is

the side length, in this case 41

the back length on line

drawn from

G

through E,

'

j

inches..

in this

case 42 inches.

Finish the bottom as represented.

NOTICE

:

In all Drafts

NOT

allowed.

—

designed in

this

Systematic Outline

—

are seams


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts

187


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Seven Gore Skirt For Misses' Sizes

First lay

up

all

points as described in Systematic

then continue as follows 1

from

2 from 3

is

A 1

5 from 4

6 from

5

is

'

is

1

5 is

1

Draw

2

(

to

G.

and G.

inches.

inch less then one-third of 4-5. inch less than the half-way between 5 and lines

between

Measure the waist

and the

:

one-third of the line from

is

H

skirts,

3 inches.

is

the center between 2

4 from

Outline for Misses'

I

-4,

line

half actual waist

2-5

from

measure

J.

and 3-6 as represented.

A is

to

to

G

and the difference bet^^een

be taken out

in darts

at

this

points

measure 1-2-3

as

represented.

At the

the front (point

most

NOTICE

:

I)

take out the least and at the side

dart.

No seams

Allow for

all

or turning are allowed.

seams.

(point

5)

take out


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Seven Gore Skirt For Misses' Sizes

l«9


190

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Collars for Misses' for

Womens' Garments.

Garments are constructed the same way as


PART THREE

JUNIORS'

GARMENTS


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

192

The System Garments;

it

is

for Juniors

Garments'

is

the

same

as for

only constructed by special measurement.

Womans'


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Table of Proportionate Measurements For Juniors' Sizes

SIZE

(AGE)

193


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

194

Semi-Fitting French

Seam

For Juniors' Sizes

up

First lay

all

points to your measure as

described in Systematic Outline (page

then continue as follows 1 from 2 from

1

72),

lines

through 2

from

C

to

1

and from

for the fashionable w^aist line

1

as

3 from C is /i> inches. 4 from 3 is J4 inch. 5 frorr, D is inch. 6 from O is /4 inch. 7 from P is '4 inch. 1

Draw

a line from 6 to

7.

4,

or

make

9 from 4 is inch more than the distance from A to K. 10 from 5 is '4 inch more than the distance I

to 9.

by drawing

located

a line

from 8

to

9

as represented.

Finish the back as represented.

12 13 14 15 16

from 9 from from F from 1

I

is

is /-o

is

is

located

P.

drawn from

a

line

from ^6

by draw^ing a

line

from 26

as

29 from

draw^ing

26.

33 from 30 is 3''4 inches. 34 from R is the same width as L to 8. Draw a line from from 34 to 26. 35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams. Draw a line from 35 parallel with

?4 inch.

17.

by drawing a

% %

line

through 27. 29 from 27 is '^ inch. 30 from 28 is 's inch. 31 from 29 is 3 inches. 32 from 26 is the same length

is

/^ inches.

1

by

located

36 from 37 from

located

from

line

34-26.

inch.

through 15, 17 from 5 is 34 inch. 18 from 8 is inch. 19 from b is inch.

O

as

1

I

/4 inch.

I

same length

'

1

1

is

is

34 inch.

is

from is 2 inch. from 6 is inch. from 2 is 2 inches. from G is 334 inches. from 25 is 34 inches on 25 parallel with line 1-2.

28

the width to style or taste.

1 1 is

8

parallel with line E-24.

the half-way between 7 and

from 4

22 23 24 25 26

27

I

is

7 is the

Finish the side gore as represented.

represented.

8

1

21 from

:

Z is 34 inch. Y is 2^ inches.

Draw

20 from

line

from

14

6 22 1

is

34 inch.

is

the

38 fron 33 is 39 from 29 is

I

'4

the

same length

as

36 from

as

38 from

inches.

same length

32.

Finish the sented.

front

and bottom as repre-


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting French For Juniors' Sizes

Seam

195


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

196

Loose Box Coat For Juniors' Sizes

up

First lay

points as described in Systematic Outline

all

(page

I

72),

then continue as

follows:

from

1

2 from

Z Y

is

'

Draw 3

is

inch.

j

2 Jo inches.

is

from

lines

4 from

3

is

5 from

3

is

6 from

1

is

U

inch

is

%

A

is

"4 inch.

10 from L

is

9 from

I

J

through

2 as represented.

is

%

12 from

2

is

'2 inch.

13 from

A

F.

inch.

a line from

Draw

from

5

4 inch.

R

E

through

12.

the length of garment desired.

is

located by a line sqared out from

15 from

14

16 from 4 is

I

inch.

from

17

and from

more than

is

is

I

'4 inches.

7 from 6

14

to

% inch. % inch.

8 from C

1 1

C

the half-way between F and M.

is

the

located

by

18 from

1

19 from

1!

7 is is

Allow

I

3,

V2 inch.

is

1

1

5

from

5.

a line squared out

from

13.

same length

j/4

as

1

inches.

inch.

for button stand 2 to 3 inches for single breasted,

and

3

to

4 inches for

double

breasted.

Finish the draft as represented. If

center.

you wish

to

have the back center without any seam, take

off

'1^

inch

at

the

back


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Loose Box Coat For Juniors' Sizes

197


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

198

Blouse For Juniors' Sizes

First lay

up

all

for Misses' Sizes,

from

Z

is

2 from

Y

is

1

'

j

then continue as follows

in

Systematic Outline

:

inch.

lU

Draw

measure as described

points to your

inches.

lines

from

C

to

1

and from

I

to 2 for

the

fashionable waist

line

as

represented.

3 from

4

is

C

is

2 inches.

the half-way between

5 from 4

is

'4

6 from

is

4 inches.

I

F and M.

inch.

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 4

8

is

is

located

'4

inch.

by drawing a

line

from

X

2 from E.

Finish the front as represented.

through E, and

is

from

E

the

same length as


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Blouse For Juniors' Sizes

199


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

200

Sleeve Construction for Juniors' Garments Measurement

for Size

15

Bust 35 inches.

Sleeve length (inside seam)

1

Draw

2 from

a straight line as from 1

is

frorr,

4

is

5 6 7 8

1

is

located

7 inches.

to 2.

the sleeve length measure.

Square a

3

1

I

line

up from

by a

line

2.

bust measure on line squared up from squared out from 3 as represented.

a quarter of the

full

is

the center of

is

located by a line squared

is

the center of 2-4.

is

the center of

1

I

plus

1

inch.

2.

up from

5.

1-3.

Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from is 2 inches. 1 1 from Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 12 is the center of 10-11. 13 is the center of 3-10. 14 from 12 is /4 inch. 15 from 3 is inch. 16 from 3 is /4 inch. 1 7 from 3 is /4 inch. 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 20 from 7 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 21 from 20 is inch. 22 from 20 is inch. 23 from 4 is /^ inch. 24 from 21 is 2 inch. 1

I

I

3,

1

1

1

'

Draw

all

contruction lines as represented.

Sleeve for Juniors' Garments

First lay up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-1 1. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9-


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sleeve Construction for Juniors^ Garments

Sleeve for Juniors' Garments

23f*J

201


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

202

Juniors' Five

Gore Skirt

Measurement Waist 24/^ inches. Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. Side length 37 inches. Back length 37 inches.

A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 15'4 inches. C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer. D from A is 6 inches. E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C,

F

G from F H from A I

in

this

case

18/2 inches. is located by a line squared out from E. is

1

is

H

inches.

the front length, in this case 36 inches.

from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 37 inches. G is the back length on line drawn from G through E, in this ceise 37 inches. Finish the bottom as represented.

J from

1 from A is 3 inches. and G. 2 is the center between 3 from H is 3' 2 inches. (Twice as 1-A less 4 from J is 3 inches. 5 is the center between 3 and 4. 6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 5. 1

The to

'2 inch.)

difference betw^een the actual half waist measure

and the measure of

line

A-G

is

at

point

2

be taken out in darts as follows For instance A-G is 7 inches. The half actual w^aist measure is 12*4 inches. :

I

Surplus

is

Take out

4 '2

,'4

inches.

inch at point

1

equal divided on both sides, and

equal divided on both sides.

7 from 2 2

8 from

is

2Js inches.

is 2! s

inches.

9 from 7 10 from 8

is

','4

is

J4 inch

from 6

is

"4 inch.

1 1

inch on line squared up from

7.

squared up from

8.

on

line

Finish the draft as represented.

4*4

inches


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Juniors' Five

Gore

Skirt

203


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

204

Juniors* Circular Skirt

Measurement 2 inches, Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. Side length 37 inches, Back length 37 inches.

Waist 24'

A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer.

D E

from from 1

F

8'

is

2

A D

is is

in this case

1

5 '4 inches.

6 inches. the half Hips measure on line

drawn from

D

parallel with line

A-C.

in

this

case

inches.

located by a line squared out from E.

G H

from F is H inches. from A is the front length, in this case 36 inches. I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this ens? 37 inches. J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through h., in this case 37 inches. Finish the bottom as represented. 1

1 from H is the fixed bottom width. through E. 2 is located by drawing a line from 3 from 2 is the same as 2 from G on line drawn from 4 is the center between A-G. 1

Draw

a line from 4 through

1

through E.

3.

5 from 3 is 6 inches. 6 is the center between D-E. Draw a line from 6 through 5. 7 from 6 is the same as E from 6 on line drawn from 6 through 5. ^ 8 is located by draw^ing a line from through 7. Measure the back length from 8 to and finish the waist and bottom lines as represented. Measure up the waist line from A to 8, and the difference between this measure and the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in dart or darts as described on previous 1

1

pages.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Juniors' Circular Skirt

205


206

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Collars for Juniors' for

Womens' Garments.

Garments are constructed the same way as


PART FOUR

CHILDRENS'

GARMENTS


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

208

Measurement

Women,

for Children are

Misses and Juniors.

taken in the same

way

as for


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Table of Proportionate Measurements For Childrens' Sizes

SIZE

(AGE)

209


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

210

Systematic Outline For Childrens' Sizes

Measurement Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Scye depth 3/4 inches, Back waist length 3 inches. Breast 29 inches.

1

To Draft A

A. Square both ways from B from is one third of the

A

ure, in this case

Cfr

B

D

C

from case

is

the Scye depth

D

is

from

M

Breast meas-

N

is

O

from

P

is

full

inches.

9'',s

5 '4 inches. (In lack of

measure

as represented.

C

mesure, the

/^ inch

is

the

case

in this

F From E

is

1

Q from H

the

back waist length measure.

C

C

from

I is

is

the

same

as

C from

1

is

the

same

as

D

from C,

in this

case

L

from D is one quarter part of line drawn from D to I, in this case 2 '4 inches. Draw a line from K to J. is the center betw^een C-H.

NOTICE:

at

U

V

In

all

is

'2

inch

the center

Draw

Diagrams

from from

Z

is

'^4

"4 inches

is

W

G

I

I

a line from

out from

Y

inches.

is is

T

on to

line

squared

V,

the

is

same

as

D-K on line squared

W. is

'

s inch.

located by drawing a line from

X through

Y.

designed in

this

out

2 inches.

Systematic Outline

Table of Aliquot Parts Measure

to P.

more than

point S as represented.

from H from U from U.

inch seams allowed.

Breast

O

I

W from S X

5/4 inches.

K

squared up from M,

line

inch.

inch, and is from S on line drawn J is from S through T 's inch longer than line K-D, this 'k inch is to be taken off in corner

A.

located by a line squared out from H.

J from

2

a tine from

T from

line as represented.

is

inches.

H

'

2 inches.

the half Breast measure plus 3'^s inches, in this case (i4!j plus 3',s) 18),s

from

is

between H-G, in this case 4' 2 inches. R is located by a line squared up from Q. S from R is "4 inch less than D-K, in this case

3 inches.

4 inches.

Hip

for the

inches.

'4

1

by a

the center betwen M-N.

Scye depth

Square out lines from C for the Breast line, from E for the waist line and from F

G

N

Draw

more than

is

located

this

in

center of A-C.)

E from D

from L

- are


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Systematic Outline For Childrens' Sizes

221


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

212

Childrens' Tight-Fitting

up

First lay

points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 0),

all

1

then continue as follows: 1

from E

2 from F

1'2 inches.

is is

3 from

I

is

4 from

2

is

inches.

ÂŤ

^

I

"4 inch less than K. '4

inch

more than

from D. 3

from

1.

Finish the back as represented.

5 from

3

is

6 from 4

is

'2 inch. '

inch.

2

is

located

by a

line

squared

down from H.

8

is

lacated

by a

line

squared

down from H.

9

is

the center between H-L.

10

is

the center

1 1

is

located

7

between

by a

line

12 from 10

is

^4 inch.

13 from

I

is

^2 inch.

14 from

10

is

1

15 from

1

I

16 from 8

10.

4 inch.

is j/o

I

5-7.

drawn from 9 through

inch.

^s inch.

is

17 from P

is

2

inch.

18 from 9

is •'4

inch.

'

Finish the side gores as represented.

19 from

21 from

2

inch.

''.s

inch.

7 is

20 from 8

is

Q

'

is

Q parallel Q through 2 Q through 2

2^2 inches on line draw^n from

22

is

located

by a

line

drawn from

23

is

located

by a

line

drawn from

24 from 23

is

's inch.

25 from 23

is

's inch.

Finish the front as represented.

I

I

with line X-Z.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens* Tight-Fitting

213


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

214

Childrens* Semi-Fitting

up

First lay

all

points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 10),

then continue as follows 1

E

is

from F

is

from

3 from

I

4 from

2

:

1^2 inches,

1

inches.

s

3

inch more than

is '4

/4 inch

is

5 from L

is

'4

inch.

6 from P

is

'4

inch.

more than

K

from D.

3

from

1

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 3

is 1 2

inch.

8 from 4

is

'4

inch.

9 from 6

is

'2 inch.

10 from

H

inch.

'4

is

1 1 is

located

squared

down from

12

located by a line squared

down from

is

13 from

1

14 from

12

I

by a

is

is

's

line

inch.

inch.

I

Finish the side gore as represented.

15 from

16 from

11

is

2

is

1

'n

1

inch.

inch.

Finish the front as represented.

1

0.

10.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens' Semi-Fitting

215


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

216

Childrens'

First lay

up

all

points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 210),

then continue as follows

from E

is

1

2 from F

is

1

1

3 from

4 from

M

is

1

5 from 2

6 from

inch.

inch

is :'4

from C.

more than 4 from

inch on line

'4

M

inches less than

'4

1

3 is

inches.

s

'4

is

i

inches.

^ ->

'

Sack Coat

1

drawn from 4 through

3.

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 3

is :'4

inch.

8 from 4

is J/o

inch.

9 from

5 is

'4

10 from

7 is

'4

inch on line

'4

inch.

1 1

from S

12

is

is

inch.

located by a line

13 from

1

2

is

'4

drawn from 8 through

drawn from

X through

7.

Y.

inch.

For button stand allow

Po

to 2 inches for single breasted,

breasted. Finish the front as represented.

'

2^2 to 3'o inches for doubfe


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens'

Sack Coat

217


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

218

Childrens' Loose

up

First lay

all

Box Coat

points as described in Systematic Outiine for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 0), 1

then continue as follows:

from E

1

inch.

''4

is

2 from

D

is

1'2

inch.

3 from

K

is '4

inch.

4

is

the center between

5 from 4

is

6 from E

is

7 from 4

is

's

8 from 6

is

1

9 from S

is

10 from

D

's

inch.

inch

1

H-M.

more than

5

from C.

inch.

inch.

'4 inch.

is

the

full

Square out

length desired.

line

from 10 as represented.

1 1 is

located by drawing a line from

12

is

located

by drawing

13

is

located

by a

14 from

I

line

a line

from

5

7

inch above the bottom

through 6 and

is

'4

through 8 and

is

from

squared out from

7

line,

the

same length

and

3 to 3'^ inches for

as

I

I

from

5,

10.

3 is '4 inch.

Allow

for button stand

I

'o to

2 inches for single breasted

breasted.

Finish the

draft as represented.

double


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens* Loose

Box Coat

219


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

220

Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments Measurement Breast 29 inches, Sleeve length

1

4 inches.

To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case 4 inches. C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus l^ inch, in this case (9 I

'x

plus

'

o)

lOj/s

inches.

D

from B

is

Draw

the

same

as

a line from

C from A on C to D.

line

squared up from

B.

between A - B. by a line squared up from E. G is the center between B - D. H from G is '4 inches on line squared out from G. I is the center between A - C. J from is the same as from A on line squared down from K from is 2 inches. L from A is 2 inches. Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. is the center between L - J. N from M IS '4 inch.

E

is

the center

F

is

lacated

1

1

1

i.

1

M

O

is

the center betvi^een

P from

Q

O

is

from C is from F is

R

Draw S from

is

C.

-

'/^

inch on line

drawn from

U

J

through C.

/2 inches.

1

lines betvvfeen

Q R -

D.

-

'2 inch.

Draw a line from S to R. from H is inch on line drawn from from E is '4 inch. inch. from H is from U is 2 '4 inches. Draw lines between K V.

T

V

C

J

inch.

I

I

D through

H.

1

W

-

W

-

Sleeve for Childrens' Garments First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-U-L. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- -2-W-K. :

I


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments

Sleeve for Childrens' Garments

2*

H(

/

221


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

222

Tight-Fitting

Waist Lining

For Childrens' Sizes

First lay

up

all

points to your measure as described

in

Systematic Oudine

for Childrens' Sizes, then continue as follows 1

from

2

is

E

is

1

1 2

inches.

H-M.

the center between

3 from

inch.

2

is

'/-i

1

is

one quarter of the waist measure

4 from

measure

is

26 inches

in this case will

;

less

'4

inch.

For instance the waist

be point 4 from point

I

(6 '2 less

^4)

5 4

inches.

Finish the back as represented.

5 from 2

is !H

inch.

down from

6

is

located

by a

line

squared

7

is

located

by a

line

drawn from

8 from

Q

is

Q

5.

parallel with line

X-Z.

2'^ inches.

Measure up the waist

line

from

1

to 4

and 6

to Z;

deduct from

this

the half actual waist measure plus 2-4 inches for seams, and the surplus

measure is

to

be

taken out in dart.

For instance by drafting a size

measures 15% inches

;

be 15)4 inches; surplus

9 from 10 from

7

is

h

1

the waist line from

the half actual waist measure is

-2

inch,

which

is

to

is

1

to

13 plus 2

be taken out

inch.

Finish the front as represented. that

'n

seams are allowed

all

'4 for

6 to

over in this draft.

Z

seams, will

in dart as follows:

7 is /i inch.

Remember

4 and


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting

Waist Lining

For Childrens' Sizes

223


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

224

Waist For Childrens' Sizes

up

First lay

all

points to your measure as described in

then continue as follows 1

from E

2 from 3

is

is

is

inch on line

1

3

is

'

:

inch.

,'4

the center between

4 from 5

I

is

drawn from

5 is

through

I

inch.

2

inch on line

1

D

H-M.

located by a line squared

6 from

Systematic Outline (page 2

down from

drawn from

4.

4 thro Jgh 5.

Finish the back as represented.

7 from 3

8

is

is

inch.

2

located by a line squared

9 from 8

10 from

Z

is

IS

Draw 1 1

'

from

Z

is

inch on line

I

1

'4

'

2

drawn from

7

7.

through

8.

inches.

a line from

1

down from

inches,

X through more or

I

0.

less

Finish the front as represented.

accordingly style or taste.

10),


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Waist For Childrens Sizes

225


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

226

Children^' Coat Dress

First lay

up

all

points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes

(page 2

1

0),

then continue as follows:

D

from

1

is

the

full

length desired.

Square out from

2

is

the center between

3 from

2

is

4 from E 5

is

is

1

as represented.

H-M.

inch.

'4

inch more than 3 from C.

i

located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and

from

inch

abow

the

line

squared

is

'4

is

from 6 the same length as

out

1

Finish the back as represented.

6 from 7

is

2

is

Z

is

Draw is

inch.

located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and

8 from

9

'4

'4

inch.

a line from

X

through 8 for the front center

located by drawing a line from

10 from 9

is

's

X

inch.

Finish the front as represented.

through Y.

line.

5

from

3.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens' Coat Dress

227


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

228

Standing or Military Collar For Childrens' Sizes

A. Square both ways from

A

B

from

C

is

D

from

E

from B

F

is

the center of

A

-

3 inches

is

B

J from

A

from

on

line

squared up from B.

drawn from

D

to E.

inch.

'4

U inch. inch,

'4

is

Shape the Line

two seams.

inch.

'4

is

is

for

inch.

'4

is

is

represented.

B.

the center of line

from F

K

A

A as

measure plus U inch

3 inches.

is

G from E H from D I

the half neck

is

1

C

-

collar as represented. is

the back center.

High Standing Collar For Childrens' Sizes

A. Square both ways from A.

B C

from from

A A

is

the half neck measure plus

is

3 inches. 3 inches

D

from B

is

E

from

D

is

F from B

G

from

C

'4

is 'h is /4

on

line

's

inch for one seam.

squared up from

B.

inch. inch.

inch.

Fold the paper on

Shape the

line

E-F, which

collar as represented.

is

the front center.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Standing or Military Collar For Childrens' Sizes

High Standing Collar For Childrens' Sizes

229


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

230

Childrens'

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom

Place the top- and under sleeves together at the

should overlap

'4

inch for taking the seams

Childrens'

One

off,

and

back seam

so,

that

they

that

they

finish as represented.

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the top and Cuff

Place the top- and under sleeves together at the

should ovedap

The

cuff

'4

is

inch for taking the seams

off,

and

back seam

so,

finish the sleeve as represented.

represented by heavy, broken lines.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens'

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom

Childrens'

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the top and Cuff

231


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

232

Childrens*

A-B. Draw

"4

inch for taking the seams

a straight line from

A

C

is

D

from

C

from

D

is

the half wrist

F from D

is

the

E

the center between is

Piece Tight Sleeve

under sleeves together

Place the top- and

should overlap

One

and

the sleeve length

same

as

E

A

off,

back seam

at the

that

so,

then continue as follows

they

:

to B.

B.

measure on

measure plus from

D

on

's

line

line

squared

inch for a

down from

C.

seam on line squcU-ed out from D.

drawn from E throngh D.

Finish the sleeve as represented.

Childrens*

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

with seam at the middle of the under aurm

First

make One

Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as

follows

A-B-C-D E-F

is

is

the original sleeve.

about the middle of the under sleeve.

Cut through the sleeve of the sleeve so, that

mark

over the

By using

new this

at

E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side

B-C should be

placed to

A-D

accordingly

notches,

and

sleeve as represented.

kind of a sleeve be careful that the side seam of the garment

should correspond with the seam of the sleeve.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens'

^

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

One

Piece Tight Sleeve

E

Childrens*

with seam at the middle of the under arm

233


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

234

Collars For Childrens' Sizes 9 from 6

Ulster Collar Diagram

Draw

A

througli 2 to 3. a line from 3 from 2 is '4 inch more, than the width of the back neck. 1-2.

4 from

3

1

is

dow^n from is 5 from down from

inches

on

line

squared

inches

on

line

squared

'4

to

3.

on

3 is the collar width as desired squared out from 3. 7 from b is '4 inch for spring.

6 from

a line from is

1

5 from

a

line

5

is

through 2

to

the

1

Diagram C through 2 to 3. 1-2. Draw a line from 3 fron 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. '4 inches on line squared 4 from 3 is I

from

5

through

3.

is the width of collar desired squared down from 4. 7 from 6 is ''4 inch for spring.

en

line

Shape the

collar as indicated.

stand at 5

-

2

-

3 is to

be stretched.

Standing Rolling Military Collar Diagram

Draw

D

through 2 to 3. a line from 3 from 2 is 4 inch more than the width of the back neck.

7

line

squared

_>

the standing 1

'

Finish the collar as represented.

Storm Collar Diagram G

-^.

6 from 4

5 6

on

I

I

4

inches

I

1

1-2.

/4

collar, which was produced accordingly Ciagram B. is inches, and is the same 5 from 74 from 2. length f;om 2 as 6 from 2 is the w^idth of the collar desired on line draw^ from 2 through 3. 7 from 6 is J inch for spring. is

I

The

1

Diagram F

Standing Rolling Ulster Collar

2 to

width

Standing Lay Down Collar from two pieces 1-2-3-4

'

'4 inches. is 5 from Shape the collar stand

the

2.

5.

3.

width

I

down from

to

5.

I

I

than

1

back neck.

'

of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. inch. 4 from 3 is inch. 5 from 3 is inches. is 6 from Shape the collar as represented. I

inch more

'4

is

I

from 4 through

Finish the collar as represented.

more than

inch

'4

Draw

7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on line squared up from 5, inch for spring. 8 from 7 is

Diagram B 2

1

down from

Standing or Military Collar Draw

is

6 from

collar as indicated.

Shape the

1-2.

Diagram E the shoulder point. is V^ inches. 2 from 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 is located by draw^ing a line from 3 to 1

of the

line

3 from

and Button High Collar

Roll

t

I

a straight line from 5 to 4. a line for the collar stand from 5

through 2

9-7-8

3. 1

1

Draw Draw

'4

I

is the width as desired. Finish the collar as represented. The outer leaf of the collar line must be slightly stretched.

1

Square up and down from 3. inch. from 3 is inch. from 3 is '4 inches. is from from 5 is the width of the roll collar as

For producing this collar take a standing collar and cut it in three pieces. 1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of three part. 7are produced by dividing the top line of the collar of three parts. Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so far as much fulness you desire and finish the collar as represented. Allow for seams between the pieces.

Flat Collar Diagram H

1

1

1

I

7

is

J^

inch for spring.

off,

desired.

put together the shoulder so, that inch for taking the the collar to the shape

this collar at

they should overlap

seams

desired.

8 from

For producing and back

the front

and mark

'4


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Collars For Childrens' Sizes

235


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

236

Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts Measurement Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Front length 23 inches. Side length 23 inches, Back length 23 inches.

To Draft A. Square both ways from

as represented.

is

the half waist measure, in this case

from B

is

5 '4

from

D

from

A

is

4 inches.

from

D

is

the half

Draw

E

A

A

B C

I

3 inches.

inches on line squared out from B.

a line

from

A

through C.

Hip measure,

in this case l7'o

inches on line

drawn from

D

parallel

with line A-C.

F

is

G H I

located by a line squared out from E.

from F is

is

\}/4

inches.

the center between

H

from

is

'

2

A

-

Finish the waist line

A

J from

K

from

L

from

1

G

is

is is

G.

inch.

A-l-G

as represented.

the front length measure, in this case 23 inches. the side length measure, in this case 23 inches. the back length measure, in this case 23 inches on line

Finish the draft as represented.

drawn from

G

through E.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts

237


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

238

Childrens' Five

First lay

up

all

Gore

Skirt

points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts

(page 236), then continue as follows 1

from

2

is

is

3 inches.

is

the center between

3 from

4

A

5 J is

'

l;

1

-G.

inches (twice as

the center betw^een 3

Draw

lines betw^een

-

as

I

from

A less

Vi inch).

L.

1

Measure up the waist measure and the

much

-3

and

line

half actual waist

2-4.

from

A

to

measure is

G to

and the difference between

be taken out

this

in darts as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Childrens' Five

Gore

Skirt

239


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

240

Remember and decreases from and Juniors 2

that

by Childrens the Breast measure increases

size to size

inches.

1

h

inches, during

by Ladies, Misses


PART FIVE

INFANTS'

GARMENTS


242

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Collars for Infants' as for Childrens' Garments.

Garments are Constructed the same way


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Table of Proportionate Measurements For Infants' Sizes

SIZE

(AGE)

243


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

244

Systematic Outline For Infants' Sizes

Measurement Breast 24 'o inches.

Scye depth

Waist 23 inches. Hips 30 '^ inches. inches. Back waist length

5 inches.

1

To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is one third of the full Breast measure, in this case 8,'s inches.

C

inch. from B is from C is the Scye depth measure, in this case 5 inches. (In lack of the Scye depth i-j,

D

measure

D

is

from

C

'i

inch more than the

center of A-C.)

E from D

is

the

in this case

F From E

is

1

back waist length measure,

M

from L

N

is

O

from

P

is

G

from

C

is

line as represented.

the half

(I2J4 plus 3

inches, in this case

's)

3

's

15 's

C

from

is

is

located 1

from

D to

Draw

L

is

is

'

inch

2

1.

a line from

K

to

J.

the center between C-H.

NOTICE:

to P.

more than

at point

S

the center

as represented.

U

from

H

is

1

'4

inches.

V

from

U

is

1

'4

inches on line

In all

Diagrams

Draw^ a line from

W from S X

from

W

is

squared

out

from

Z

is

G

the

is

V.

same as D-K on

line

is

'

squared

s inch.

located by drawing a line from

X through

Y.

designed

in this

Systematic Outline

Table of Aliquot Parts Measure

to

W.

out from

Y

T

2 inches.

inch seams allowed.

Breast

O

from U.

the same as C from A. by a line squared out from H. J from is the same as D from C. K from D is one quarter part of line drawn I

a line from

1

inches.

H

the center betwen M-N.

from J is inch, and is from S on line drawn from S through T 's inch longer than line K-D, this 's inch is to be taken off in corner

Square out lines from C for the Breast from E for the waist line and from F Breast measure plus

M.

inch.

between H-G. R is located by a line squared up from Q. S from R is '4 inch less than D-K.

4 inches.

Hip

inches.

'4

1

is 'j

Q from H

line,

for the

N

Draw

T

inches.

is

located by a line squared up from

—

are


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Systematic Outline For Infants' Sizes

245


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

246

Infants*

up

First lay

all

Loose Box Coat

points as described in Systematic

Outline for Infants' Sizes (page 244),

then continue as follows:

from E

is

4 incfi.

2 from

D

is

'2 inch.

3 from

K

is

,'4

1

4

is

___^

the centerbetween

5 from 4

is

is

7 from 4

is

8 from 6

is

9 from S

is

10 from

D

inch more than 5 from C.

1

inch.

's

I

H-M.

inch.

''x

6 from E

inch.

'4 inch.

the

is

Square out

full

length desired.

line

from

1

as represented.

through 6 and

11

is

located

by drawing a

line

from

12

is

located

by drawing a

line

from

13

is

located by a line squared out from 10.

14 from

1

3

Allow

;

inch.

is

5

7

through 8 and

is

is

'4

inch above the bottom line.

from

7

the

same length

and

3 to 3' 2 inches for

as

I

I

from

5.

'4 inch.

for button stand 15

2

to 2 inches for single breasted

breasted.

Finish the

draft as represented.

double


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Infants'

Loose Box Coat

247


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

248

Sleeve Construction for Infants^ Garments Measurement Breast

24.' o

inches, Sleeve length

1

I

inches.

To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case inches. C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus y, inch, in this I

I

case (8' s plus

'

.)

8>;

inches.

D

from B

is

the

Draw

E

is

F

is

same

as

a line from

the center between

C from C to D.

A

-

A

on

line

squared up from

B.

lacated by a line squared

up from E. between B - D. from G is '4 inches on line squared out from G. I is the center between A - C. J from I is the same as I from A on line squared down from K from I is 2 inches. L from A is 2 inches. Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. is the center between L - J. N from M IS ,'4 inch.

G H

is

B.

the center 1

I.

M

O

is

the center betw^een

P from O Q from C

R

from F

is is is

Draw S from C

T

U

V

W

is

I

lo

J

-

C.

inch.

inch on line

drawn from

J

through C.

I/2 inches. lines

between

Q R -

-

D.

/2 inch.

Draw a line from S to R. from H is inch on line drawn from from E is ;'4 inch. from H is inch. from U is 2 '4 inches. Draw lines between K V. 1

D through

H.

1

W

-

Sleeve for Infants' Garments First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-UL. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- -2-W-K. r

I


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Sleeve Construction for Infants' Garments

Sleeve for Infants' Garments

249


:

.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER A ND CUTTER

250

Infants'

First lay

up

all

Coat Dress

points as described in Systematic Outline for Infants'

Garments (page 244),

then continue as follows

D

from

1

is

the

length desired.

full

Square out from

2

is

the center between

3 from 2

4 from E 5

is

'4

is

is

H-M.

inch.

inch

I

as represented.

1

more than

3

from C.

located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and

from

is

'4

inch

abow

the line

squared out

1

Finish the back as represented.

6 from 7

is

2

is

Z

is

Draw is

inch.

located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and

8 from

9

,'4

located

10 from 9

is

'4

from 6 the same length as

inch.

a line from

X

by drawing ;',x

is

through 8 for the front center

a line from

X

inch.

Finish the front as represented.

through Y.

line.

5

from

3.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Infants'

Coat Dress

251


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

252

Infants*

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom

Place the top- and

should overlap

'4

under sleeves together

inch for taking the seams

Infants'

One

off,

at the

and

back seam

so,

that

they

that

they

finish as represented.

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the top and Cuff

Place the top- and under sleeves together at the

should overlap

The

cuff

'4

is

inch for taking the seams

off,

and

back seam so

,

finish the sleeve as represented.

represented by heavy, broken lines.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Infants'

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom

Infants'

One

Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the top and Cuff

253


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

254

Infants'

To produce

a

they should overlap

Yoke U

lay the

inch

for

Yoke

back and front together figuring

the

seams

at the

off,

and

shoulder finish

that

so,

the

Yoke

as represented.

Infants' Shield

To Produce

a Shield lay the back

that they should overlap

as represented.

'4

and

front

together at

inch for figuring the ÂŁearr.s

off,

c.nd

the

shonlder

finish

the

so,

Shield


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Infants'

Yoke

Infants' Shield

255


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

256

Hood

The hood

A-B

is

1

inches,

C

from B

is

D

from

C

is

E

from

D

is

1

is

constructed from a cape as follows

more or

less

accordingly style or

taste.

inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches.

one-third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches. 1

inch.

Finish the hood as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Hood

257


258

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Collars for Infants'

as for Childrens' Garments.

Garments are constructed the same way


PART

SIX

GRADING


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

260

Art of Grading

Graduation

described as the

cutting

is

it

sized

of different

a single model,

ments from

ment

may be

number

of grading a

and

frequently a great assistance

production

This, indeed, the

the most practical

system of grading lends

Assuming so corrected correct it

fit

use

produce

as

produce a

to

Revers,

been

is

the

same

gathers,

shapes,

plaits,

By no other plan

of

In the

anxious

is

embod-

a comlete set of patterns

lapels,

folds,

to

tucks,

The

diagrams the inside

sizes are in

cal

a logical and It

and comprehensive

Juniors'

must be in

minute

made up in different The medium size is for

ment

is

added

size or

size, for

sizes.

If

:

Ladies'

Garments

Misses'

"

16

Juniors'

''

15

36 Bust

Years

20

3

"

19

"

6

"

i4

"

"

2

"

6

The amount v^fhich

deatil

•

"

"

Infants'

practi-

exact,

show how

"14 1

Childrens'

scientific

manufacturing every gar-

w^holesale

In

truly

lines

:

"

Misses'

But to attain succes the grader must have

of working.

never

size.

"

method

tabes,

are

etc.

Ladies' Garments from 32 to 44

more expedi-

at

through grading.

command

scallops,

grade a smaller size and the outside lines

shov/ to grade a larger

working can such a

desirable result be arrived

at his

as diagrams will

heading.

this

graded; regarding this use your ow^n judgment.

ying the same excellencies.

tiously than

grading

show under

with a perfection of style,

naturally follows that the cutter

to

it

itself.

alterations

combined

garment

of

style

may be — tight fitting, semi-filting or loose no matter how many pieces the pattern is cut into, the

that a single pattern has

by

4

Whatever shape or

pattern

of

which the

to

10 Years

"

Infants'

in ladies gar-

to the grader.

sets, is

Childrens' Garments

art

gar-

is

taken

amount

size to

instance from 36 to 38 or vice-versa.

you

to

smaller

from

to for larger size is

v^rish to

grade for 2 sizes larger or

smaller, for instance from 36 to

have

off for

add as

to,

resp. to take

40 than you

off

marked on diagrams.

the

double


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

261

Scale of Regular Stock Patterns Showing how many inches the garment increases and decreases from

Measures

size to size.

in

proportion


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

262

Grading of Ladies' Tighth-Fitting with dart

Increases and

Decreases for

Each Size


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Grading of Ladies' Semi-Fitting with Side Piece

263


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

264

Grading of Ladies' Eton

Increases and

Decreases for

Each Size


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Grading of Ladies' Semi-Fitting French

Increases

and

Decreases for

Each Size

Seam

265


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

266

Grading of Ladies' Tight-Fitting French

Increases and

Decreases for

Each Size

Seam


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

267

Grading of Ladies' Tight-Fitting Double French

Increases

and

Decreases for

Each Size

Seam


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

268

How

to

Grade

Misses' Sizes

from Ladies' Size Patterns

Size

20

is

the

same

as size 38.

Size

1

8

is

the

same

as size 36.

Size

1

6

is

the

same

as size 34, but

Size

1

4

is

the

same

as size 32, but

'

1

o

inch shorter in the waist lengtht. inch shorter in the waist length.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Grading of Misses'

Increases and

and

Juniors' Tight-Fitting with dart

-269


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

270

Grading of Misses'

Increases and

and

Juniors' Tighth-Fitting

French Seam


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Grading of Childrens'

and

Infants' Semi-Fitting

271


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

272

Grading of Childrens*

Increases and

Decreases for

Each Size

and

Infants'

Box Coat


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

273

Grading of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens'

// ^^^^Si,

and Infants' Sleeve


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

274

Grading of Cape, Yoke, Collar, Cuff

increases and Decreases for

Neck

J4,

Around

Yoke: Neck

'4,

Front

Cape

:

Collar:

Neck

,^4

Bust

J4,

1

Back

inch.

,'4

inch.

inch.

Cuff: Length on top

'

j.

on bottom

's

inch.

Each Size


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Length of Garments

1

275


276

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Skirts


PART SEVEN

SPECIAL

MEASUREMENT


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

278

Foundation of Garment Cutting

The method

may be

of Cutting

ways,

divided in various

may be

they

point,

two

divided into

plans,

as ocassion

it

may demand,

many

for

judgement

by

either

practical

stand-

the cutting of a special pattern for

viz,

each customer and the using of one model pattern adapting

instance

for

as

Proportinate and Special measures system, but looked at from the

customers,

different

the

or

of

indications

special measures.

Cutting by model patterns

much may be

one of the most successful methods, and whilst

is

the

said in favor of

drafted

specially

pattern

in it

each

for

customer, yet there are also a considerable number of arguments

To

favor of the model pattern being used as the basis of operation.

much

is

same

easier to retain the

in

style

method than from any other; and when

number

large

garment

of customers

The

own

essential

first

many methods their

made

can be

it

smart hanging,

good-fitting,

really reliable,

can be used

it

in

all

more advantageous in this

is

to get a

cutters

style

add

good

make

at

this

what

surprising

is

it

a very varied selection

adjusting

There

fit.

skill

it

honor

of

of

first

so

a a

of

there are

produce

to

cutting

all

every

that

who

are others

of

and

model,

fitting

point

a

it

each stage by

themselves of the

to avail

way they

and what

for,

and then altering and

brought to meet their views of

and

this

Some

of doing this.

in linen

garment,

stylish

by

pattern that will produce

a

to produce.

models, carefully testing them

garment out

has

advanced

begin with,

produced

garments

the

all

one

individual

be

to

find

more experienced

detail it

the is

much

practitioners,

which would other-

are enabled to obtain the very best talent,

wise be quite beyond them.

There

are others

to test

pattern,

of sizes.

it

who

adopt a third plan, and that

by experiment, and then use

This requires some

skill,

and

if

it

is

as the basis

done well

it

w

ill

to

pocure

a

simple

for grading a full

set

produced most satisfactory

results.

The basis.

cutter has necessarily to decide

There

purpose; but

are in

some

who

would

vote

which for

style

of

model he

tight-fitting jacket

view of the popularity of the semi-fitting

style

at

will

use as his

pattern for his

the present time,


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

who

there are those

ment and model

Each plan has

figure.

of a jacket

Others again,

prefer that fashion.

and adapt the various

their basis,

its

advantages.

Hning

as

of

on the whole

a semi-fitting

the

gar-

which

pattern

of

produce

will

a

garment.

st\lish

The

Possibly,

bodice

the

requirements

about the most useful type for the cutter of the present time,

is

enabling him to cut the most fashionable style smart,

use

parts according to the

279

principles underlaying

the

all

systems

now

in

which

all

Cutting

of

use

are

grouped under two headings.

The

1

Proportionate measurement.

2.

Special measurement.

Proportionate

measurement of cutting

are those in

points

of

attitude,

as

the draft are obtaned by fixed proportions of the breast circumference. I

1.

erect,

That

it

1

hat

Proportionate measure system are:

a

does not provide for disproportion

high or low shouldered,

stooping, 2.

same

he principle disadvantages of

it

full

or

does not provide for difference

flat

in

or

variations

breasted,

in

etc.

shoulder or scye for figures of

breast measures.

That

it

leaves too

much

to the

judgement of the

and too

cutter

much

to

chance.

The

Proportionate measurement

womankind were

all

b.isis

of Cutting

would only

be

reliable

if

In such a case divisions of

of strictly proportionate formation.

the circimiference of breast would produce correct outlines. Special measures,

they give to the cutter such confidence

their appLcation as cannot be otherwise obtained,

and

in

all

and

productive of the best possible results. Spec.al measures help to one to judge

assurance

kinds of garments

customers form

well.

in

are


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

280

How

1.

Bust measure. well

to take Special

Around

body under

the

up on shoulder blades

Around

in

back.

the

body

Measurement

the arms, over the fullest part

2.

Waist measure.

3.

Hips measure.— Around the body 6 inches below the waist

4.

Lower shoulder measure.— This measure the center about 4 inches

down

Upper shoulder measure. the center of

the 6.

Back line,

7.

arm back

front,

and

at smallest part in waist.

the back

is

This measure

line.

found by placing the end of the

seam from the center back

the other end over the shoulder and under the 5.

in

is

arm back

of

at

neck, passing

to the starting point.

found by placing the end

back neck, passing the other end down the

tape

of

the tape at

front of shoulder

and under

to the starting point.

waist-length measure.

and continue down

From

center

back

of

neck

down

to the natural waist

to the full-length desired.

Front waist-length measure.

From

center

back

of

neck

to

the

waist

of

center

of front.

From

8.

Bust depth measure.

9.

Side waist-length measure.

center back of neck to the

— From

brow

of bust.

center back of neck, over the shoulder to the waist

line at side.

For the sleeve length take the inside seam from the arm

pit

to the wrist.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

How

to take Special

Measurement

281


'

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

282

Systematic Outline By

Measurement

Special

Measurement Bust 40 inches.

Back waist-length

Waist 26 inches. Hips 4 inches. Lower shoulder 25 inches. Upper shoulder 25''4 inches.

Front waist-length 23' Bust depth

1

Scale

Excess

inches.

2

length 2 1

inches.

1

8 inches.

in this case 12/0 inches. Half Scale is 6^4 One-Quarter Scale is 3',x

between the Lower

difference

the

is

case

w^aist

inches.

2

inches.

5

Sleeve length

'

Lower shoulder measure,

the half

is

Side

1

5

1

Upper shoulder measures,

and

in

thi

iJ inch.

'

To Draft A. Draw a straight line as from B from A is the half Scale plus half Excess, in this case 6' 4 's

C

A

from

plus

'^

plus

plus

the back waist-length measure,

is

for the Bust line,

line

and from

D

for the top line,

C

from

from B

F from B

measure 24 inches.

rep-

plus

the half Bust

is

the Scale less

is

'

2

4

'

in this

in

inch,

this

T

case 12 inches.

G

from F 3/s

H

3;'s

9%

is

B

from

inches, in this case 6/4 plus

less 3

is

'.^

is

G

U

from A is 5 '4 inches. Square out from E,

G

and

I

as rep-

K

I

X

2*4 inches.

is

A

is

one-quarter Scale less

s

in this case 3 inches.

Square out from

K

as represented.

R

from S

W from

resented.

J from from

from

is

/'^

L

inch,

in

more than the dison line draw^n from R

inch to

O

through T. Cut off the point at inch as represented.

in

V F,

I

case 8 inches-

tance from

from F 6 inches.

the half Scale less J4 inch,

case 3 '4 inches.

Square out from S as represented. '-4 inches, from S is half Scale plus this

6 inches.

this case I

the half Scale plus one-quarter

is

Scale less

'

M

from waist

for the

for the hip line as

inches, in this case

M

'

resented.

E

is

M

M

case 153^ inches.

from C is 6 inches. Square out from A

B

% inch

located by drawing a line from A to J. from H is 2 inches. Square out from as represented. plus N from is half Scale inch, in 's this case 6 s inches. O from N is j inch on line drawn from L throguh N. and N. P is the center betw^een Q from I is '4 inch. R is located by drawing a line from A through Q. S from G is one-quarter Scale plus s inch,

L

to D.

together 7*4 inches.

in this

D

A

is

R

R

of

/.s

2 inches.

is

2 inches.

W

as represented. Square out from is one-quarter scale plus 's inch, from

W

in this

case 3

'4

inches.

Y

is

locared by a line squared out from E.

Z

is

located by a line squared out from

F

NOTICE

— disigned in this Systematic Outline — are inch seams allowed. Systematic outline — the half waist Diagrams — designed in In In all

Diagrams

s

this

all

is

measure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 20.) is the half hip designed in this Systematic Outline In all Diagrams measure 1 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hip Development on page 20.)

'


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

283

Systematic Outline By

#Y

SpecieJ

Measurement

-ih

%


2

:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

284

Seam

Tight-Fitting French By up

First lay

as

described

all

points to your

in

Systematic

measure

Outline

(Page

Measurement

Special

Measurement

Special

for

then

282),

continue as follows 1 from R is the Side waist-length measure '4 inches and less the width of the plus to L, in this case back neck as from I

24 from

\%

plus

19/'2

is

22;'4 less 3J4 is

1

from

R

26 from 6 27 from 26

R

the Front length-measure plus inch and less the width of the back to L, in this case 23' neck as from is

%

A

plus 2

i

3<s

24-^s

is

J'8

3 '4,

less

is

2

R

from

inches.

and from Draw lines from C to through 2 for the fashionable waist line 1

I

C

is is

3 from

5 from O 6 from P

Draw

is is

% inches. % inch. % inch. make

to 8

as represented.

%

1

15

is

16

is

7

is

18

is

1

more than

I

3 to 8.

gores as rep-

side

29 from 30 from 31

is

15 2

from 13 the

is

iVo inches.

is

I'l inches.

is

drawing

located by

through 30. 32 from 31 is

33 from R

and

as 14 from 13.

is

a

E

from

line

inch.

's

the Bust depth measure

plus

'4

16^4

less .V4,

point 33 from

is

R

33 is 2 inches on line drawn from 33 parallel with line 1-2. 35 is located by drawing a line from 34

36 from 35 37 from 35 38 from 34 39

inch.

is

inch.

a

line

from

13

4.

is

and 4. located by drawing a line from 1

I

30.

is

2;H inches.

is

the

same length

located by drawing

40 from

39

41 from

R

Draw

as 36

from

1

is is

4

'4

the

a

line

from

36

E-31. inches.

same width

as

L

to

7.

a line from 41 to 34.

42 from 41 Draw a

the half-way between 9 and H. the half-way between

E-

/4 inches.

1

parallel with line

inch.

through 7. 19 from 17 is '^ inch. 20 from 17 is j/2 inch. inch. 21 from 18 is inch, 22 from 18 is 23 from 15 is /i inch.

is

34.

inch.

located by drawing

through

and

inch,

'4

is

same length

parallel with line

1

1

inch for seam.

34 from

inch less than A to K. 8 from 3 is 9 is located by drawing a line from 7

11 from 8 is 12 from 10 is 13 from F is J4. is 14 from

%

13 inche?.

is the half-way between 5 and L, or the width to style or taste.

inch

the

resented.

1 V4

I

% %

6

A

2 inches.

7

is

ji inch higher

is

inch.

1

is

Finish the back

1

a line from 5 to 6.

10 from 4

and

inches and less the width of the back to L, in this case 15 plus neck as from

as represented.

4 from D

is

1

28 from l4

inches.

2 from

inch,

'js

%

A

21

7 is

from the line L-5. inch, and is from 25 from 5 is same length as O from P.

is

inch for seams.

'4

line

from 42

parallel with

line

41-34. 16

43 from 14

is

the

same length

as 29

from

I

1

28.

44 from 40 45 from 36

is

is

1

y^ inches.

the

same

length as 44 from

38.

1

Finish the front as represented.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting French

Seam

By Special Measurement

285


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

286

Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front By

Measurement

Special

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Special Measurement (Page 282), then continue as follows: 1 from R is the Side waist-length measure plus /4 inches and less the width of the back from R 19'^ inches. neck as from A to L, in this case 21 plus \'}4 is 22,4 less 334 is 2 from R is the Front length-measure plus >ÂŤ inch and less the width of the back neck x inches. as from A to L, in this case 23 '^ plus '^ is 24% less 3/^. is 2 from R 2 and from through 2 for the fashionable waist line as Draw^ lines from C to I

I

'

1

I

I

represented.

3 from

C

4 from

3 is

is

from D is from P is from H is from 4 is from 5 is

5 6 7 8 9

inches.

/'z

I

/4 inch.

inch.

1

inch.

'4

inch.

/'4

inch more than the distance from

I

inch

'4

more than

A

to K.

the distance from 4 to

8.

Finish the back as represented.

10 from 8

/4 inch.

is

from 9 is J/2 inchees. 12 from 6 is }4 inch. 13 from F is % inch. is ''4 inch. 14 from 15 is located by drawing a 16 from 14 is /<> inch. 1 1

i

1

from 13 through

line

14.

Finish the side gore as represented.

17 from 18 from 19 from

is

1

1

5

2

20 from R

and

is

from F the same length as 16 from

13.

inch.

1

2 inches.

is

Draw

inch,

2

'

is

from E through

line

19.

the Bust depth measure

is

neck as from

A

to L, in this case

plus

I

34 inches

15 plus 134

is

16^4

and less

less 3 34,

the is

13 inches.

21 from 20

22 23 24 25 26 27

28

inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19.

13'^

is

is

located by drawing

is

located

from from from from from

22 24

by drawing J/t.

is

3 inches.

21

is

the

is

%

from 21 parallel with line E-19. from 21 parallel with line E-19.

line line

inch.

is

23

a a

same length

as 24 from 21.

inch.

27 is 3/4 inches. Finish the front as represented.

29 from 6 30 from 28 1

31 from 24

is

is is

the I

'4

the

same length

as

1

8 from

I

7.

inches.

same length

as 30

from

Finish the bottom as represented.

26.

width of the back point 20 from R


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front By

Special

Measurement

287


o

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

288

Systematic Outline By

Special

Measurement

No Seam Allowances Measurement Back

Bust 40 inches. Waist 26 inches. Hips 4 inches. Lower shoulder 25 inches. Upper shoulder 25*4 inches. 1

Scale

1

5

'

inches.

j

1

Side waist length 2 inches. Sleeve length 8 inches. 1

1

the half Low^er shoulder measure, in this case 12'

is

Excess

waist-length

Front waist-length 23*2 inches. Bust depth 5 inches.

is

6/^

is

3}/g

between the Low^er

difference

the

is

Half Scale

One-Quarter Scale

Upper shoulder measures,

and

-

in

this

case "s inch.

To Draft A. Draw a straight line as from A to W. B from A is Sj-o inches on line squared up from A. C from B is 2 '4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A to C. D from A is the half Scale plus •'is inch plus half Excess, in this case 6J4 plus is ZH inches.

'k

plus /s

E

Square out line from D as represented. from D is the Scale less ^ inch, in this 1

2 inches.

F from D from E

6/4 plus

D

3',s

from E is Square

is

I

inch, in

I

less Jo

is 2/.s

inches.

I

plus

is

2

J from F

lines

from

% O

G

is

from

L

J

to

and M.

F.

half Scale plus 2's inches plus

is

934 inches.

from E this case

P from N

half Scale plus

is

6'4 plus the

is

l,',s

is

I's inches,

7%

N

in

inches.

same length

on line drawn from Q from E is 2 inches.

is

1,

E,

G

and

H

half Scale plus

'

inch, in

2

A

is J.

'

2

''2

is

inch on line

2

's

'

2

a line from

N

one-quarter

as L from through O.

K

Draw

a line from is

2

T

A

is

the

from

1

in

to

Q.

from

N

from

N

is

^-'4

Scale,

R

to

H.

inches.

Back waist-length measure,

15*2 inches. the Side waist-length measure

back neck as from is

A

to K.

the Front waist-length measure

Z

back neck as from A to K. from N is the Bust depth measure the back neck as from A to K.

Y

Draw lines from T to U and from U to V. and X are located by a line squared up from W.

less the

inch,

inches.

K

this case

less the

as

P

in this case inches on line squared out from N.

R

this

drawn from

Draw from

S from

U

F,

case 6)4 plus J2 's 6^4 inches. is one-quarter Scale less from

from J through

R

V

in this case 3',s less

L

from

a line

half Excess, in this case 6*4 plus 2'\ plus

inches.

1

inches.

j/2

I

20 plus

represented.

K

N

3',s

7J4 inches.

the half Bust measure

is

inch, in this case I

the center between

Draw

one-quarter Scale less ^2 inch,

is

case

in this

from

the half Scale plus

is

this case

H

is

'

case

G

M

less


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Systematic Outline By

Special

Measurement

289


4 1.

.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

290

Tight-Fitting Jacket By

Special

Measure System

Seams are not allowed

First lay up all points to your measure (page as described in Systematic Outline 288), then continue as follows: 1 from T is 2 inches. '4 inches. is 2 from

W

4

is

1

I

1

hips equally divided at points

to

3

is

7 from

5

is

8 9 10

is

is

through 9. from 9 is 12 from 9 is

'2 '

_;

located by

is

through 8. 14 from 10 is is 15 from 16 from X is ,'2 Finish both 1 7 from U is '4 I

1

I

same length 18 from X is 19 from V is

20

located

is

through

21 from

22

drawing a

12

inch. inch. inch. gores as represented. side

and from I.

inch

U

from

is

I

the

1/2 inches. '4 inches. I

by drawing

is

'4

a

H

from

line

K

than

inch less

by drawing a

located by

is

from

line

from A. from 2

line

H-20.

drawmg

from

a line

21

through 22. 1

from

line 1

1

U

to

I

I

and

I

7

7'4 inches.

The this

in dart.

24 from 22

one-third of the Dart, in this '2 inches. case 25 from 23 is the same as 24 from 22. 26 from 24 is the Dart, in this case 4*4 inches. 27 is located by drawing a line from 2 through 26 and is from 2 the same length as 24 from 2 28 from 25 is '4 inch more than 26 from 24. Measure up the hip line from 2 to 5 is

I

1

I

2

'

14,

's

A

inches.

3

to

case half of the actual waist measure is in case 13 inches; there is a surplus 4' taken out inches, which amount is to be

to

19; the total is in this

18,

through 2. a line from the is located by drawing middle of 3-6 through 5. 34 is located by drawing a line from the middle of 3-6 through 7 and is the same length from 6 as 33 from 3. 35 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 14. 36 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 15, and is from 11 the same length as 35 from 12. 37 is located by drawing a line from U through 18. 38 is located by drawing a line from )4 is inch outside from U through 16, and from U the same length as 37 from 1 7. 39 is located by drawing a line from 27 through 28 and is 1 /4 inches below 31. 40 is located by a line drawn from 24 through 25. and is from 24 the same length as 39 from 27. Allow for single breasted button stand 1

Measure up the waist and continue 6 to 2,

16,

inch.

33 from 8

line

19.

Z

located

is

as

a

inch. inch.

parallel with line

23

32 and 4. U and 6.

1

is

Finish the front as represented. is the full length desired. is located by a line squared out from 30. a line from 1 is located by drawing

30 from 31

inch. inch.

the center between the center between located by drawing

is

1 1

13

'4 1

1

7.

29 from 20

1

6 from

and

15

is

M

5

I

inch less than K from A. located by drawing a curved line from 3 as represented. from 2 is ^,'4 inch more than 3 from Finish the back as represented.

3 from

and continue 7 to 14, 5 to 18 to 6, 28 and 25 to 20. The difference between this total and the half of the actual hips measure is to be added to by larger size smaller size hips and to be taken off by

41 from

42

The N is

and Lapel

Collar 1

inch.

the length of the crease line desired. 41 and a line from 42 through longer. is

Draw

43 from N is 44 from 43 is

'4

inch.

inches more than K from on line drawn from 43 parallel with line 42-41-45. 45 is located by a line squared up from 44. 46 is located by a line squared out from 44 and make the width of collar as desired. 47 from 46 is about 2 inch for the spring 1 '4

A

'

of collar.

Finish the draft as represented. No seams or turnings - in allowed

on

this draft.

for


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Tight-Fitting Jacket By

Special

Measure System

Seams are not allowed

291


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

292

Taking Special Measurement For Direct Short Measure System

(How

to

apply

this

measurement

to the

System see pages 308 and 309.)

Measurement For Body 2-6-2

Arond

3-9-3

Around

12-12

bust waist

Around hips

1-2

Back scye depth

1-3

Back waist length

Over shoulder

2-5-6

1-6 Front

shoulder

Front waist length

1-7

1-8 Bust 1-9

depth

Side waist length

11-11 Across chest

6-6 Across bust 6-

Sleeve length

1

For Skirt

Arond

3-9-3

12-12 7-1 3

waist

Around hips

Front length

9-14 Side length 9-

1

5

Back length


PART EIGHT

RIDING

AND SPORTING GARMENTS


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

294

Riding Skirts

In the

middle of the

last

century they were simply several

widths of material plaited into the waist and to flow gracefully to at least

wearer. These, although the standpoint of safety,

when

it

were not

was found

the lady had the misfortune to be

the surplus material

knock

graceful,

of twisting

which

formed

the

themselves round the

a

enough

long

cut

12 inches below

the

the

of

feet

from

practical, and,

death-trap

veritable

thrown from her horse; graceful

pommel

folds of

and the lady would be dragged along the ground

the till

had

a

saddle,

she

was

kicked to death.

Then came and

shorter,

a revolution,

and closer and

and

closer,

trains till

were

made

shorter

they arrived at what

was


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

when

thought to be the utmost limit of safety,

over the

close-fitting

Experience

the

in

ladies cut out large holes

;

train for additional safety, whilst

cleared

the underpart from the seat

downwards

enough

at either side,

to folds

simplified

over the leg

the

improvements

from the underpart

others

quite

of the train.

suggested

hunting-field

were

they

almost cover

to

showing out from the hem

foot, the toe just

on these

and long enough

seat,

295

away,

and

and

the

of

whole

the

so

just still

of left

further

it.

The most important saddle, that

is,

riding

a

in

come

more

is

a

in contact

particularly about the spot

clean

some time

the

where

with the pommel.

Such superflous material means soreness for

skirt

there must be no wrinkels or creases under

wearer's seat or legs and the knees

item

a

after

ride,

pain

and

the

to

and

rider

such superfluity

so

must be avoided.

The can we is

how

question

locate to

do

if

is,

where the

fulness starts

be

how

present,

and finishes?

Well,

this

it.

Having placed the on the

these things should

skirt

on the custumer and the cusomer

and furthermore, made sure

horse,

that

the

skirt

is

in

the right position, proceed by fittmg the upper side.

When and the

this

front

has been accomplished, rip up the back seam

seam from

clean over the horse,

foot

thus

coarse, that you intand to do

lady

who

clad.

Once

rest

is

put the

skirt

on

the under part

to

knee,

exposing this,

but

whether is

and

first

the

throw

wearer.

the

of

all

exposed on the

front of

the young

ask

customer

the

Mention,

is

interior

properly

then

the

simple.

Having fully readjust.

fitted

the

underside replace the topside and care-


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

296

Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Front These diagrams represent a model reproduced by the inch tape, will 20/2 inches side to knee and

Seams

1

fit

of a side saddle safety riding skirt,

a lady with 26 inches

3 inches rise

waist,

measurement.

are not allowed.

36

r

43 inches

which hips.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

297

Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Back 4t

7t

11

17

lai

22 J

In this particular skirt there is a hole for the

pommels and

is

made

like

a

placquette of a skirt with press studs. If

the rider

is

thrown, these studs

being hung up on the pommel.

come

into

action

and prevent the

rider


.

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

298

Apron Riding

Skirts

To Draft This diagram represents a model of an

Apron Riding

the inch tape, will seat.

which reproduced by 24 waist, 40 fit a lady

Skirt,

Seam allawances

of one-quarter of an

inch are allowed.

7

1 1

Back

A is 2 A is 30 1

V X Y B, D,

and

F,

W_;

inches.

1

is

to

L and K

to

M.

1

located by drawing a line from

D

to

3 inches.. 1

inch

between

5

and 6 as

represented.

Draw

lines

and from

T

as represented.

I

V-W

and W-Z.

1

is

V-W.

the center of

21 fom 20 22 from 1

1/4 inches.

is is

}/)

inch.

Finish the back part as represented.

R. 1

4 inches.

1

Finish waist line as represented.

20

2 inches.

6 from 5 is Take out

as

I

1

is

H

1

2 from is H4 inches. 3 is the center of K-M. 3

is

from from Continue the line T-I from is 14 inches.

the center of J-L,

4 from

and

G is 20 inches. H is 3! 2 inches. H is 6 inches.

I

I

5

Z

C

Connect

from B is 30 inches. from D is inches. O from D is 28 inches. P from F is 5 inches. Q from F is 5 '4 inches. R from F is 28 inches. S from F is 34 inches. T from H is 50 inches. U from H is inch. Draw lines from J is

G

12 from C is 8 inches. Connect E-12. 13 from E is 3 inches. 14 from 13 is 2J-2 inches. 15 from 14 is 4 inches. 16 from C is inches. 17 from G is 10' ^ inches. Connect 16-17. 18 from 3 is 6 inches, 19 from 6 is 6 inches.

inches.

M

1

from

W from

8 inches.

N

from C,

represented.

as represented.

is

lines

I

1

K

inch.

1

Square out

1

L from B

is

I

1

H

from S

Finish the front part as represented.

A. Draw a line as from A to B from A is J/'o inches. C from A is 9 inches. inches. D from A is E from A is 5 inches. F from A is 6 inches. G from A is 23 inches. H from A is 34 incfles. I from A is 5 inches. Square out lines from A, J from from

the center of N-Q. 1

Front

I

is

8 from 7 is }4 inches. 9 is the center of T-I. 10 from 9 is 7 inches.

from N to Q. from T to through S as represented.

I

23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

is

inside

is

a button.

31

is

the edge of lining

23

is

the position

is

the place for two holes.

is

the place for

is

the inside elastic loop.

is

a tab.

is

double cloth

is

pocket. ela.stic

inside

thigh

fastening.

for knee.

loop.

is

shown by

saddle.

dash-line.


JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER

Apron Riding

AND CUTTER

Skirt

299


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

300

Hints on

One

most convenient and becoming of the

of the

Apron Riding

One

Skirt.

and, altogether,

Making Apron Riding

easy to make,

is

it

position of

is

it

comfortable

safety riding

much on

cut very

Skirts

skirts

the

is

principle,

the trouser

wear, as well as safe in case

for

of accident.

The shaded The main thing is

portion at 27

when

the position of knee

is

room

to secure plenty of

for the

For

the saddle, and to keep the lap portion short and hollow.

seam

the apron

is

finished.

knee when the wearer

in

is

shaped

that reason a

put from 5 through 6 to R.

is

The

O, and you

Figure 11 joins point

11

will find

the other half of cut, and both have slightly round edges.

somewhat longer than These two edges, when

together, produce a condiserable cavity into which the knee fits. The fulness produced by extra length of side 11 must be sewn on and afterwards pressed back

sewn

from outer edge, and so help

to give

The

shape there.

large vees

on underside

will

by

the

caused

be sewn with tapering effect towards 17, and the surplus material

downwards over

closing up of these cuts be distributed by the iron

from

I

down raw edge

portion

have

of course,

all

the shape given

it

shaped part from

buttons put on a broad elastic tab,

on the lap

front waist

way

is

The turned

in

arrangement, where

if

Z-W. made up

fixed firmly

shown

two

with

on

at 24,

placquet-hole

bound and

a

shown edges

and

joins 11

put upon those positions shall not is

merely cut

with a

in

down and

strip of lining.

pocket put at

cut

close to lap

and where

W

and

holes,

below

a linen stay just

A

split

5

in

:

the material.

piped with a piece of the

same

facing can be put on the underside

as in the ordinary skirt;

in

joins

the placquet

finished

in

28 on diagram.

11-T and Y-Z

stitched.

If

you

with the lining before you

edge;

lining

5-b, 6-1 1-R,

at

linen,

or

of opening,

is

O

which goes

That

must be placed, and those points must be well tacked through the

The

this

This tab

portion.

or seat

firm

this

so fhat the strain

material,

is

had

the

J,

consequence of linen stays

which

is

rule

a

of material

that the cloth has

J-K-4-M-0,

machine

by

As

bottom behind T.

to

line 31,

and the piece of cloth which joins the underside

The

down

stitched

concerned.

is

seam with the same piece

lined to just cover the

is

either

seam

so far as the side

through the front, as per dot and dash must,

17.

The lines V-W and J-L are the seat-seam when the apron is on, and that to E is the side seam. These seams will be sewn in the ordinary manner

and pressed open, the opened seam being felled

line

the cloth of apron

stitch is

are stayed with a strip of linen or staytape,

line the

front of skirt the edge

the edge

down;

if

not,

11-T

both can

be

will

of melton or other firm edge material.

then

be faced

felled

raw


JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER

the leg,

301

O

^Vhen will be

AND CUTTER

the flap portion L - J is fa'itened up on 24, the leg of the rider through the circle so formed, and so the apron fits cleanly and firmly round wheter the wearer be on horseback or on foot, just as we see fitting

it

round the knee on

inset

loops of different shape but such

is

comprehend those loops

You

notice on

will

is

seen

at

and caught

;

29

at

at

29

made of inch fastened to a linen stay placed underneath the front in the outer edge, and felled round its inner edge to skirt. 29 is

about 8 inches long, fastened

is

both ends, and

at

fit

into

it,

and,

left

as

somewhat you

will

bottom and about two-thirds the distance down from 11

somewhere about is

a

%

25 of the large diagram; they are

that the foot of rider can easily

25

two

diagram

that

these appear to be on the outside of skirt in that diagram not the case; they are shown there with a view of aiding you to the.r position whe:i the wearer is in the saddle. The true position of

or 1 inch elastic; that lining

diagram point 32.

one-third the length of front

double piece of sim.lar

clastic

to

seam up from

fastened to a linen

loose in canter,

note,

.stay

T, the

is

so

placed with

that

its

to

say,

bottom of

skirt!

felled

is

on

the under

side;

the double end of loop reaches nearly to the bottom, say wi-hin or at most 4 inches of bottom; the looped portion should be about 6 or 7 inches long, and be strongly secured to skirt; into these loops the feet of the rider can be thrust at will, and be easily removed in case of necessity-. About 29 you notice a cloth tab, or you may put an elasttic tab there, and, on the whole, we would advise that as the better plan. Well ,<

this tab

with the object of enabling the wearer of the apron that part of apron

of waist euts is

walking.

;

this

While

when

ofl the

fitted

there

to

fasten

up

at back of waist, where a button should be placed at the end has the effect of hiding the upper parts of legs when the wearer on the horse the skirt or apron appears as we show it at small

diagram, only the single portion comes against the side of the horse. The waust should be finished thinly, a;id with a neath ba.id put at all or the top of skirt turned in a.id stitched rou.id.

—

is

horse

if

band

be


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

302

Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns

In the cutting of riding skirts

is

it

nec-

essary to edjust the pattern to the length, the size of waist,

and the

In altering the in

mind

to bear

that this will also effect the distance

from the waist the

we have

to the

pommel,

knee that goes

that the

so

length

over

must

be

increased half above the knee and half below.

For

instance,

skirt has to

be

out the pattern

we

also

open

suppose the length of the

we open

increased 2 inches, at

it

M M

out at

P P

making corrections

we want

waist

follow, seat

it

seams K, waist are

this

G,

I,

comes

made

this

last,

as

is

F.

This

is

extra

adjust-

two may

necessarily of

the

at the

four

size

done equally being

done,

the

and the variations necessary

per dot and dash

endeavoring to take out there

the

of

size

the

for the

dos not

best to edjust

is

and

first,

amount, but

that

to the seat,

go together, though

the

for

mind

to bear in

ment necessary

size of the seat.

length

In

larger

prominence

line,

always

vees

where

to provide for,

and

half that quantity,

vice ver.-a.

or 1 inch.

we

For the underside

out 1 inch at

N

and

1

inch

at

produce the proper adjustment

seam and

also at the seat-seam,

open

O; at

K

it

this will

the

L.

side

The

outline used on this

an apron riding

and successful.

skirt

that

is

diagram both

is

of

popular


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns

303


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

304

Ride Astride Skirt

This diagram will produce a pattern to measuring 24 inches waist, 40

a lady

fit

add

to or take

from the

off

from I is 5' 2 inches. from J is 5 inches. from K is 36'''s inches. Connect points as represented and

U

1

V

inches hips, 39 inches side length. Variations may be made as follows In length

T

finish

the backpart.

bottom. size of waist, alter the

In

V-s

at the waist,

as the waist

smaller or larger.

is

In the size

making

In

of hips, alter

at

sideseam.

variations for the side

be careful

to

the

of

size

enlarging or reducing them

make

hips,

of

the size of waist correct.

Frontpart

A

to B and Draw^ a stright line from measnre 4 '4 inches. Square line from to 7

2

measure from A 3 \5%, to 4 20'2.

and

5:^8. to

6 30 /^, to 7 3t) from points 1,2,

to

Instruction for Drafting

L from

Backpart

A

Draw^ a straight line from to B and measure 4 ,'4 inches. Square line from

A

1

K

to

3I/4,

to

1

and measure from E 4%, to F 6J/2.

to 1

3,

to J 20/8, to

down from

Square

and L from M from N from O from P from Q from J

R

from S from

K

C D

is

7' 2

inches.

is

2}/-2

inches.

is

2 y inches. '

E E

is

5 '4 inches.

F

is

1'4 inches.

is

I

j's

inches.

G is 8 inch, G is 4's! inches. ,'

to

to

G

Ib'ji^

C \, 8,

to

to

H

D

10^

inches.

C, D, E, F, G,

K.

A

A

H,

I,

A

1

A

8 from 9 from 10 from 1 1

12

13 14 15

is

7' 2

to

/-.s,

3,

4,

5,

6 and

to

5 23^.

inches. Square

down

7.

inches.

inches.

is

2

2

is

1^8 inches.

3

is

3 '8 inches.

from 3 from 4 from 5 fiom 6 from 7

is

'8

7;,'

1

/'4

I

I

to

8

inches.

is

3 '8 inches.

is

5

inches. inches.

is

15;' 8

is

34/4 inches.

Connect points as represented and

finish

the frontpart.

W-X-Y-Z

is an 8 inch square gusset. This ride astride skirt is cut in five parts two fronts, two backs, and an 8 inch :

square gusset. Opening side

seam and

is

in this is a

arranged pocket

at

left

inserted.

One-Quarter inch seam are allowed.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Ride Astride Skirt

305


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

306

Making Ride Astride

Skirts

In cutting from the pattern, a reduced model of which

you

make what

will

measurement

variations in

useful in case extra width or length

above

AA

the balance-marks are those lines indicated by

This diagram represents the front and back

and here we have

pieces,

be

all,

pjints

various

at

before the reader,

here placed

and leave on what

required here or there;

is

balance-marks, either by nicks, or by placing mark-threads

more importance than

is

necessary,

are

inlays will be

sure to locate

instead.

and

BB

in

illustrated the

all

Perhaps of

Diagram 1. marking of

and balance-marks; and, as just mentioned, the lines AA and BB are two highly important the former defines the amount of material or spring which is allowed

inlays

points for consideration:

cause the skirt, when the wearer is off the horse, to fall in graceful folds or plaits and which, during the act of riding, affords sufficient room to permit of ease or comfort without in any way marring the freedom of action which is so essential to the rider while on horseback. in order to

The rider

BB, on the

line of mark-threads,

astride the horse,

is

and follows the

the

defines

front piece,

lap-cut,

C, through the knee

front of skirt

point,

DD,

when

the

right to bottom.

We

cannot lay too much stress on the importance of care in putting the pieces together, sewing the seams; unless these are properly put together you will experience all kinds of trouble, and the wearer of the skirt will never experience that comfort she has a right to expect

and

in

from the competent

tailor.

two seams with which we slia'l deal are the lep-cut, C, and the knee-cut, DD. During the operations of baisting, seaming and pressing these cuts, it is essential you should bear function they have to perform. in mind the reason they have been provided, and the special

The

The

fir.st

lap-cut in

styles of riding

all

trains,

during the act of riding; therefore and,

ing up,

The material at

addition to that,

in

one place and

marked with a sewn together,

cross,

we

as

C,

illustrate

at

it

a

of loose material

lot

whole process of mak-

provtded with the double object of clearing away loose looseness

or is

Diagram

will

another; thus the part of diagram

at

the leg-seam of 2,

particular

this

and when

prominence or length

a considerable

now form

This will

star.

being sewn,

in the act of

just

is

to give length

both front and back,

the point indicated by the

order to obviate

in

should be kept thin there.

it

on the other hand,

kne-cut,

provided,

is

requires to be kept short during the

it

a receptacle

for the knee,

is

DD

given

1 is

at

while the leg cut,

shorten and keep clean, or, in other words,

free

from loose-

ness in that part of the front.

The the hip,

other waist-cuts are also put there with a double object: secondly, to obviate the necessity for a lot of drawing

and.

Reference of diagram 2 at

its

will

downwards over Just above

gether a

when

this

We

at the crutch.

Diagram notch

at

,^.

1,

you

of the cut, C, has a tapering off must be general, and when pressing bottom with the iron, so as to throw

will notice

balance-marks, which should be kept to-

F is the linen stay to strengthen placquethole. be left on when cutting out or sewn on afterwards.

which can to

either

what

is,

perhaps, the most important item in the

the insertion of the piece

You

On

will notice a

shown

series of

at

Diagram

notches in the

3.

The

little

the front and back halves of skirt you will find

seat-seam,

seam well open.

o\'er

line.

the round of seat.

EE, on Diagram

come, now, viz.,

spring

feature

the seams are being joined.

facing of cloth

of skirt,

to afford

along the waist

show you how the sewing

lower end. In sewing the other waist cut

the seams open be sure you disperse the loose material at it

first,

in

a

double one

at front or

lap-seam.

Sew

this

make-up

object of this

square

of

cloth

is

G

being

of this style to give spring

represented by

notches to correspond, a single piece in

strongly and press the


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Diagrams 4 and joined

we

5

show

obtain a considerable

these notches placed

amount

In the absence of a lining at crutch,

down

keep them from

to

Diagram

L

leg seam,

5

togethet,

An

shows the

front

being the piece shown

and should be well worked out

The

either case,

in

these riding skirts.

The

a

is

that

to give

of diagram

be

to

show n

M

at

3 Htting e.xactly those

Diagram

shape and freedom

felled

on front

This gives the position

5

at the

be sure not to

make

the waist

measure over

or the tight;

part,

top turned a

placquet can be finished of? as in the case of the ordinary

The

turn~up

at

bottom

looseness of material there well shrunk before the upturn

done by

four sides are

while

for

the

piece of linen might be felled on there.

patent socket fasteners can be used.

this

ail

insertion.

the seams of the piece inserted ought

waist can be finished off with an ordinary band,

m

its

and back pieces joined together at what might be called the at diagram 3, sewn to one-half of the train H I shows the

important point for consideration

purpose of strengthening,

when

that

rising or doubling over.

same piece sewn into the front of skirt only. At J and K, diagram 5, we have the notches and back pieces shown at Diagram 1 and 2. of knee,

so

of stride in consequence of

307

is

little

in a.id st.tclied;

freedom

skirt;

is

preferable

hooks and eyes or

should be well pressed,

fastened along

its

and any upper edge; whether

felling the cloth or by machine stitching through the outs.de of skirt, thought advisable, the front of skirt can be lined through, and the other seams felled down, or you may dispense with the linings and treat all seams by felling; indeed, where tne skirt is made from firm edge material this latter pla.i is the best. is

If


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

308

Riding Coat By

Direct Short

Measure System

No Seams (How

to take

measurement

allowed

to this

system see page 292.)

Measures Around Bust 40 inches. Around Waist 26 inches. Around Hips 4 inches.

Front shoulder 12/4 inches. Front waist length 23 Jo inches. Bust depth 5 inches. Side waist length 21*4 inches. Across Chest 5 inches. Across Bust 19 inches. Sleeve length 8 inches.

1

1

Back scye depth 7/4 inches. Back waist length 5 1 2 inches. Across back 4 inches. Over shoulder 16*4 inches. 1

1

1

1

2

Draw

to 5, a straight line from is the back scye depth, in this case from 7/4 inches. 1

I

the back waist length, in this case 334 inches.

3 from I

4 from

I

is

3

is

5 from 2 6 from 2

6 inches.

the full length, in this case 44 in. the half across back, and '4 inch more, in this case 7/4 inches. 7 from 2 is '4 full bust measure plus '2 inch, in this case 10' 2 inches. 9 from 2 is the half around bust measure and inch more, in this case 21 inches. 8 from 9 is the average chest measure, consisting of half across Chest measure (7 '2) and halt across Bust measure (9' 2) added together and divided in half, in th.s case 8' 2 in. is

is

I

10 from 9 1 1 is

is

one-quarter of line 2-9.

located by drawing a square

from 7. 12 from

I

is

line

down

Vx full Bust measure, in this case

2/2 inches.

13 from 12 is '4 inch on line squared up from 12. 14 from 6 is inch less than the Back Scyedepth measure, in this case 6 '4 inches. 15 from 4 is 3^2 inch. 16 from 3 is inch. 17 is located by drawing a line from to 16. 18 is about the center of 13-1 5. 19 from 8 IS the front should ar measure less to 12. the back neck from 20 from 8 is the over shoulder measure less the width from 7 to 18. 2 1 from 19 is '4 inch less than 13-15. 22 from 8 is '2 inches. 23 from 19 is the same as 1-12. 24 from 23 is the same as 1-12. 25 from 19 is the front waist length measure less the back neck from 1 to 12. 26 from 19 is the bust depth measure less the width of back neck from 1 to 12. 27 from 19 is the side waist length measure less the back neck from 1 to 12. 28 from 16 is one-sixth part of 7-1 7. 29 from 15 is 2' 2 inches. 30 is located by drawing a curved line from 29 to 28 as represented. 31 is located by dravifing a square line down from 28. I

1

I

1

I

I

1

1

32 33 34 35 36 37 38

from from from from is is is

28

is

31

is

27 27

is

inch. '4 inch. '4 inch. '4 inch.

1

is

the half-way from 7 to 30. the half-way from 32 to 34. located by drawing a line

through 37. 39 from 37 is 40 from 37 is 41 from 38 is 42 from 38 is

36

inch. inch. '4 inch. '4 inch. 2 inch. 1 inch. 2 inches. '/i

''2

43 from 1 is 44 from 1 is 45 from 25 is 46 is located by drawing '

1

1

through 45. 47 from 26 is

48

from

1

'

a

line

from 9

inches.

2

located by drawing a line from 47 parallel with line 9-46. 49 from 48 is one-third of the front waist supis

ression.

50 from 49

is

51 from 47

is

the front waist supression. the same length as 47-49. 52 is located by drawing a line from 49 parallel with line 45-46. 53 is located by drawing a line from 51 parallel

with line

7-1

1.

by drawing a line from the is located middle 3-16 through point 4. 55 is located by a square line down from 28. 56 is located by drawing a line from the middle of 28-32 through point 33 and is the same length from 32 as 28-55. 57 is located by drawing a line from 37

54

through 41.

58

located b> drawing a line from 37 through is the same length from 39 as 40-5 7. by drawing a line from 27 is located

is

42 and

59

through 43. located by drawing a line from 2 7 through is the same length from 35 as 34-59. 61 is located by connecting the line 51-53,

60 is

44 and

62 from 61 63 from 49 64 from 19

Add

inch.

is

'4

is

the

is

1

same length

as 51-62

inch.

for single

breasted button stand, and

shape lapel and bottom as represented.

From centre line to tabe make 6 inches more than from centre line to button, or 10 inches as shown.


Si^B^m£BSmj^ CUTTER Riding Coat

23

64 19

309


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

310

Riding Coat By

As

(How

Measure System Seams are allowed

Direct Short inch

measurement

to take

to this

system see page 292.)

Measures Around Bust 40 inches. Around Waist 26 inches. Around Hips 4 inches.

Front shoulder 2 '4 inches. Front waist length 231 j inches. Bust depth 5 inches. Side w^aist length 21*4 inches. Across Chest 3 inches. Across Bust 19 inches. 8 inches. Sleeve length 1

1

1

Back scye depth 7'4 inches. Back waist length 5 j inches. Across back 4 inches. '

1

1

1

Over shoulder 16*4

inches.

1

To A, Square both w^ays from A as represented. B from A is the Scye depth measure, in this

C

case 7/4 inches. from is the waist length case 5 2 inches.

A

measure,

in this

D

from C is 6 inches. Square out lines from B, C and D. E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 inches, in this case 24 inches, F is the center between B and E. G is the center between E and F. H from B is the acros back measure, in this inches.

7

from A is 5 _ inches. J from is 2 '4 inches on line squared out from K from A is the half E-G, in this case 3 inches, L IS located by a line squared out from K. inch. from H is N from is 's inch less than B from A on line squared out from M, in this case 6',x in. O from N is 2 inch on line drawn from L through N. I

'

I

1.

M

I

M

'

P

is the centtr of M-N, is the average chest measure, consisting of half acro33 Chest ( 7 ^ ) and half across BuÂťt (9' 2) added together and divided in half (8 '2) plus '4 inch, in this case 9/4 in. Front shoulder is located by applying the

S from E

'

R

A

R

to plus '4 to L and continued from inches, in this case 22 '2 inches. 2 is located on line squared down from E by aspplying the Front waist length measure to L and continued from to 2 from inch, in this case 24'2 inches. plus 1

A

1

case

Draft

measure from A to L and continued from S to R plus '4 inches, in this case 12 '4

1

R

I

3 from

C

is

4 from 5 from 6 from

D

is

M

inch.

1

inch. inch. 6 inches. '4

is

5 is

7 from 3

'2 inches.

I

is

•'4

8 IS located by shaping from 6 9 from 4 is 6 '4 inches. 10 from 7 is /2 inch.

to

7.

1 1 from 9 is 2 inches. 12 from F is '4 inch. 13 from is 2 inch. 14 from 3 is 3 inches. inch. 15 from 3 is 16 from 13 is JU inch. 17 from 2 is 2 inches. 18 is located on line squared down from G by applying the Bust depth measure from A to L and continued from R to 18 plus '

1

1

I

',s

inches, in thi.s case 16*4 inches. 18 is 1/2 inches. 20 is located byline drawn from 19 parallel with line E- 7. 21 IS located by ine drawn from 9 parallel with line E- 7 1

'4

19 from

1

1

1

1

plus 4 IS 13' 2 inches. over shoulder is located by applying the measure from B to the middle of the back shoulder L-O and continued froin S to F plus 4 inches, in this case 17 2 inches, from R is '^ longer than L-O on line drawn from R through 1 ihis \j inch is to be taken off at point R as represanted. 1

T

1

U

;

V from S

is

2 inches.

\V from R

is

X

is

from

W

this case 3

Y

is

Z

is

2 inch( '4 '4

inch

s.

more than

inches. a line squared a liee squared

K

from A,

in

located by down from E. located by down from F. 1 is located on line squared down from F by applying the Side vi^aist length measure

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

from 20 is '/2 inch, from 2 is 'x inch. from 22 ii 3 inches. from 19 ii the same length ai 22 from 9. from li is 3 inches. trom A is the full length desired. is located on line squrred out from 27. is located on line squared out from 2 7. from 29 is 1 '4 inches. 31 from 21 is iKe same length as 30 from 15. 32 is about 16 inches below the waist line. 33 from 32 IS about 9 inches. 1

1

Allow for a single-breasted button ftand stand 2 inches, and for a vent at the back about 2-3 inches, and finish the draft as represented.


1

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Riding Coat By

Direct Short /!s

Measure System

inch Seams are allowed

31


:

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

312

Pantaloon Skirt

The Pantaloon

or

Harem

consists

Skirt

and outside skirt. Both garments may be made from the same mateof the divided hose

although the divided part made from a thinner stuff.

The

outside

skirt

with

illustrated

is

A

is the nevv^est diagram outdoor walking skirt.

Diagram

frequently

is

rial,

of ladies

style

5-12 should be balance

13 from

out

take

w^aist;

the

7

half distance

is

of

7-8,

1

}4

inches.

Shape fork as represented. 14 from 12 is the side length 42 Shape bottom as represented.

inches.

Underpart

Hose

of Divided

'4

V-s as represented.

in

15 from 10

or Pantaloon

16

Measures

is

I'o inches,

is

located by drawing

a

line

from

14

through 5 and is the same length as 14-12. > inch. 1 7 from 5 is 18 from 7 is 3 inches on line drawn from 8 through 7. 17-18 should be 34 waist take out the balance in V-s as represented. I

'

Side length 42 inches

Waist 24 inches Hips 40 inches

1

Rise

2 inches

1

I

;

Forepart

Draw

1

a straight line from

2 from 3 from more,

Hip

19 from 8

to 4.

1

6 inches always.

1

is

the

1

is

the Rise measure and 2 inches

line

4 from

is

I

the side length 42 inches.

Square out

lines

9-19

from

1

,

2,

3,

43-2

/8

Hip measure

less

1

2

is

The diagram marked B shows yg

5

inches.

5

inches.

-

7

is

and

inch more, 3 inches.

located by drawing 1

0.

a

line

from

that the

top of the forepart has been reduced 3 inches. The underpart, diagram C shows the

sideseam or at the is 12*2 inches opening and the depth at the fork is 3 inches. The bearer is shaped as shown on the diagram, and is sewn with sideseam of forepart the underpart forms the fall at the back or, in other vk^ords, the backpart of a lady's divided skirt is the reverse of a man's bearer

7 is the half distance of 3

through

seams.

inch,

9 is located by squaring down from 8. 10 from 6 is J4 Hip measure, 10 inches. 1 1 from 9 is ''2 Hip measure, 20 inches. 12

as 9-8.

as represented.

Allovkf for all

inches.

Hip measure, 7 from 3 is % Hip measure, Connect points 5-6-7. /<>

same length

the

The Bearers is

I

6 from 2

8 from

is

4 as rep-

resented.

5 from

4 inches.

Shape fork

4 inches.

1

is

Connect points 9-19.

;

1

I

pair of whole-fall trousers.


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Pantaloon Skirt

313


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

314

Ladies Riding Breeches Measures Side length 40 inches, Rise (from waist to seat of chair) 12 inches, Leg length (difference between side length and ris8) 28 inches. Full length as desired, say 36 inches, Waist 24 5 inches. Small knee 3 inches. Calf 5 inches. Bottom (at inches. Seat 42 inches, Knee the full length of breeches) 12 inches. (Measurement of Knee, Small knee. Calf and Bottom are taken by the lady herself.) 1

1

1

To Draft Forepart

Draw a line from 2 to 3. 4 from 3 is s full waist measure '

A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Rise measure, in this case Square out from B as represented. from B is 14. full seat measure, ii

C

waist masure plus s inch, in this case 3' 4 inches. Form the dart about 4 inches deep. Finish the forepart as represented.

5 from 2

2 inches.

1

case

D

10'

from B

this

is

'

full

;{

measure

seat

is

H

'

D-H-G

K

L

1

M

K and from

by drawing a

line

from

1

through

longer.

L

is the half leg length measure, less inch, in this case 3 inches.

I

1

M

N

from IS 2' J inches. from N is 3'^ inches. from about the middle of the waist

O P

A-F down

the full length desired inch, in this case 37 inches.

I

Q

from

M

is

'4

is

Knee measure,

line

plus

in this case

R

from N is '4 Small knee mea.sure, in this case 3'4 inches. is Calf measure, in this case S from

O

3

'4

'

inches.

from P

is

Bottom measure,

'

in this

case

3 inches.

U

from

M

Kne

is

rneasure

inches, in this case 2 inches.

V

from P

is

4

Bottom

inches, in this case

W X Y

is is is

6 from

G

is

inch.

I

Draw a line from D through 6 and longer. Sweep out from 2 pivoting at U. located be a line squared out from line to a point on line sweeed from point 2, w^here it meets point 8. 8 from 7 is inch more, than 3 from 2, in this case 9/4 inches.

7

is

D-6

1

9 from P is inch. 10 is located by a line squared out from I

9.

is located by a line squared out from 9. '4 inches. 12 from D is 13 from 2 is /4 inch. 14 from Q is 'i^ inch. 15 from R is '/i inch. 16 from R is '2 inch. '4 inches. 17 from 10 is 18 from is 2'-o inches. 19 is located by measuring the knee measure plus inch from Q to U and 4 to

1 1

1

1

measure '4

less

inches.

located by drawing a line from located by drawing a line from the center on line drawn from

from Y is 1 inch. from B is 1 2 inch. 2 from A is Vi:.' of the

U to V. U to V. U to B.

Z

1

in this case 2 inches.

3 from F

is

'K

inch.

1

1

3*4 inches.

T

3<t

1

J.

located

is

34

Undsrpart

'

G

from

full

'

plu

14'4 inches. the center of B-D less s in this case 7 inches. F is located by a line squared up from C. in this from C is the same as E fror case 7 inches. '4 inch, from C is the half of C-D plus in this case 2 s inches. as represented. Shape Square both w^ays from E as represented. I from E is 3 inches. J from E is 9 inches. inch on line squared out from J is

from B

is

inches.

2

inch, in this case

E

plus

inch, in this case 3'4 inches.

1

19,

20

1

case 16 inches.

in this

located by measuring the small knee 1 inch from R to and 5 to 20, in this case 14 inches. 21 is located by measuring the Calf measand 6 to ure plus inch from S to in this case 16 inches. 2 22 is located by measuring the bottom and measure plus 3 inches from T to 17 to 22, in this case 15 inches. IS

W

mesure plus

X

I

1

waist measure,

1

,

V

23 24 25 26 27

from from from from from

9 9

N

is

1

is

1

is

19 is 8 is

'

inch. inch. IJ/4 inches. 1 inch. s

full

w^aist

measure plus

/i

inch, in this case 3'4 inches.

28 from

/s full waist measure plus inch, in this case 3 '4 inches. 29 from 7 is !4 inch. 7

is

%

Allow for button stand 1 2 inches outside of 26-22. Finish the underpart as represented. One-Quarter inch seams are allowed. '

full

i


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

Ladies Riding Breeches

315


THE AM ERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

316

Leggings Measurement: Small knee

13 mches, Calf

15 inches, Length (No seams or turnings are allowed.)

A. Square both ways from A as represnted. B from A is the length, in this case 13'/^ in.

C

Line A-B is the front center of leg." from A is 3 inches. Square out lines from B and C as rep-

resented.

D

from

A

the half Small knee measure, 6'j inches. E from C is the half Calf measure, in this case 7' J inches. F is located by a line squared down from B. Curve back line D, E and 3^^ inch inside F as represented. from B is J-o inches. from is 3 inches for turn over. I from is 3 inches for turn over. is

this case

in

G H

1

G A

Curve

line of

bottom from

'4

F through G, towards H. Curve

The

line 1-H.

button stand position is shown by inch inside the front center

heavy line line A-B. a

inch inside

1

Mark holes and buttons shown on the diagram. Curve the top

in

the position

line in the direction suggested.

Gaiters Measurement: Length

fje.ght of Instep 3 14', inches, Small

inches, Instep to Heel 6 inches. Heel to Front 8 inches. knee 12 inches. Calf 13 inches. Ankle 8 inches. '4

(No seams, or turnings A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Length measure, in thi; case

C

D E

14'

inches. 3 inches. the Height of Instep in this case 3 '4 inches. from is inch.

from A from B

.

is is

D

measure

I

Square out lines from B, C anj E as represented. is the half Small knf measure. in this case 6 inches. from C is the half Calf measure thi case 6' J inches.

F from A

G

H

from E is the half Ankle measure, in this case 4 inches. I from D is the Instep to Heel measure, in this case 6 inches. J from I is the Heel to Front measure, in this case 8 inches. from J is inch on line squared out from

K

1

Draw Form

L

is

K

a line from to D. outline as represented. the center of E-H.

J.

Square both ways from L as represented edge of button stand.

tor the

in,

allowed.)


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

317

PART NINE

PRACTICAL TAILORING In dealing with the that

we have

the

making up of

we must

coats

ladies'

prominence of the bust

take into

consideration

the waist to define in varied

to clothe,

the hips to drape in graceful lines consonant with fashion's fleeting eccentricities,

may

3ur clients

coats are made,

may

the seams

The

is

Insert pockets,

lay fair.

canvas

in

fastened to dart-seam. vas

inlays,

attention

given to

is

shoulders

The

put through shoulders,

the

order

in

which

from

materials

shoulders,

a. id

position of pockets,

of forepart needs to be shrunk,

may

and

order that

in

the

that

be met.

Begin the thread-marking \xaist

special

and also the manipulation of seams

anatomical requirements

and

fact

be up to date.

In order to obtain these results, ladies'

the

degrees,

is

the

a. id

and

on the

etc.

w

b as,

a straight

ith

canvas should be shrunk before insertion.

and should be padded on

The

hollow of sidebody

keeping bala.ice marks

front dart,

baist

best put in

burtons,

strained out at these parts in order that

i.ilays

An

fair.

do.vn

piece

under ca.ivai racher easy.

to

fronts

extra piece of bias can-

This

e.xtra

canvas should on no account be stitched on by the machine.

Both canvases through shoulders are slashed and vedged alternately in order that a

shapely shoulder

the under canvas it

is

is

may be

Pad

\\'hen coat

seamed through shoulders, which

arranged to be well on bias

close.

obtained.

lapels to a

nice curl.

at

the scye.

A

assists

bridle

Steady fronts with

is

in

of the

at

shoulder

the shap-ng

which

sta.\tape,

is

scye,

of the shoulder,

put across crease-row

is

and

seam over shoulder

and

neatly felled on.

kept

stjle,

and fairly

and press

out carefully. Baist

The at that

part,

on

facings,

allowing plenty of length to linings, ease

lining of tight-fitting coats require

and

the.i

more length

that

shoulders, etc.

in

waist

on account of the suppression

the prominence of hips

Fasten facings to canvas up front dart and

The

in

waist of panel backs

is

best

shrunk

fell

to

linings neatl" in.

auay

clear

the

loose

material

formed

at

part.

The

use of wadding should be avoided as

much

as

possible

thinness and neatness are the prevailing features of ladies' tailoring.

on

making

ladies'

coats;


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

318

It

is

to stretch

always well to take the under collar from the bias of the cloth, as

and shrink

when

than

it

the form has introduced.

The

The

cut in any other way.

top collar

from the

best cut

is

under

collar

is

much

is

it

easier

which

the part in

with the center of the back

straight,

placed on the double edge; this avoids a seam, and also provides the stripes running in an effective

Once

manner.

the form has been

get the top collar to

In matter of putting

known

much

as the

crooked cut

longer collar

endeavor

to describe the

kept slightly short

The

a

just

moderate

The

is

For

cut.

and

made up in

which

rule

a

is

as thin

as

followed

is

For

collar

to

difficult

possible.

When

and

is

cut

We

a

will

put on

collar should be

and

of the gorge,

the best

all

what

cut; straight

a

repuired

is

hollow

the in

harmony with hindarm-;eam.

classes of trade.

finished with a vent at the

Baist

piece

a

of

fine

canvas

cuff.

stitch

selection of buttons forms another interesting

feature

of

some

coats,

ladies'

stsles

either plain or fancy makes.

always best to study in the

they are included

in

of

style

moderate cut shoulder the

a

shoutd be fulled on

it

turn over facing and serge along,

having large buttons, It

seldom very

is

it

depends very largely upon the

collar

This

front.

sleeves require to be

cuff,

the under collar

whilst for a crooked cut a shorter

be sure of get run of cuff

through

in

very different from the straight cut of neck.

short across the back neck,

slightly

cuffs

on the is

required,

is

obtained

properly.

fit

purpose garment

the

ornamental

of

features

is

ladies'

intended for before

and

coats,

buttons;

selecting

harmonise with the

must

other parts.

when

Ladies' coats repuire special care

no account must a

little

parts

moisture,

press thoroughly,

iron to rag. is

What

the best plan to

The

be "'boiled".

a ladies coat

and using

is

a

It

pressing. is

Very

water must be used,

little

of

best to use a piece

good hot iron; press edges

from

inside

if

linen,

remove the

linings of ladies'

tailors

gloss

in

a

lightly

"half-damp-rag", together with the use of

the

damping

off

These

lining

or of

must be touched

on

all

other

applying

small iron,

a

oat.

of a ladies'

coats are mostly of fancy makes,

white or some other delicate color.

aid

possible,

then take a damp-rag well wrung out and remove gloss by

termed by

for

and by applying

silk,

a;

and

little

a^

\er\-

often either

possible

with the

iron for fear of soiling or deslroying their finish.

When of the lining,

led;

by this

light

linings are used (white silk, for instance) the coat

being pressed and damped

means

it

is

kept clean.

off.

The

lining

is

made

up,

is

finished bar the insertion

baisted

in,

and

lightly

fel-


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

319

PART TEN

FITTING Have

a

method

for trjing on,

as

you

tn,-ing

on

just

have

system

a

This

cutting.

for

most

a

is

important feauture.

There

methods of

are different

Let us describe the two

most

poutar:

basaed

The under-arm-seam

in.

This snle of preparation

The

other style

is

often adopt

of the under-a m-seam, the sleeves,

is

put

we mean

by which

front edge,

tion

in.

This

is

this

point

machine, for there

when

a^

and

very

is

put

in,

baste,

which the

in

and usually one

sleeve drag.

or three try-ons are employed.

sewn with the exception row of sewing is put in the

the seams are

all

collar.

The

first

seamed on; the linings are basted over, all manipulawhere only one try-on is employed, as it is and finish to both fitter and wearer.

is

followed fit

word

Never attempt

of warning;

garments up by

to baste

time saved by so doing, and you cannot ensure the same accuracy

little

garment having been prepared

we

to order,

On adjusting

In this

the facing

utter a

when two

baste.

good idea of

will

the skeleton

basting by hand.

The up

is

we

is

canvas

the

shoulders,

the plan usually

certainly the best to give a

At

the plan to follow must, to a

basted on the outside to facilitate fitting and prevent

is

the forward

is

there

First,

various seams are basted and turned on one side; is

and

garment,

a

be governed by ciscumstances.

large extent,

her arri\al the

it

at

for

fitting,

examined

and

to

see

if

it

is

being

made

await the wearer with confidence. first

done

thing to be

the top of back-neck,

is

to

garment

get the

and arranging the

underw ear so

on,

properl\-

that there

is

carefully

no accumulation

of materiol round the scye. This being done, bring the fronts well over, but before joining

edges together, notice the general hang of the front, is

the front shoulder

too long;

is

there

if

garment. is

a

If

there

is

a

the

tendency to drop away

draggmg from the neck downwards, the

in

front

too short; both of which effect should be recitified by rippiag the sleeves out and the shoulders,

and arranging

Now

the balance so that

it

in

is

harmony with

and pinch them

the wearer's figure at shoulder-seam.

between the finger and thumb, aid pin the two foreparts together. This being done, make a mark with chalk down the front where the pins are. Also make a mark round the waist. This being done, proceed to examine take the

two

front edges

the va.ious points of the garme.it

The scye.

we

ajain,

4-The lower

waist.

have to note that

it

at

four points,

waist,

and

1-The top of back neck. 2-The back Next comes the sleeve, and with this width and balance. After the sleeves comes the front, the top of forepart at neck; the shoulder and front

four points.

part of the back.

the correct length,

is

we have

of scye; the front tematically,

proper sequence.

back may be done by locating

3-The back

and here,

i.i

together

viz.,

the lower part of the front.

then every part of the garment will

come under

If this

points are gone

examination.

over

sys-


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

320

marking

Fn

wrong, as sometimes there

some

combination

a

is

but a study

defects,

of

on, and to do this

is

it

not always easy to

It is

what

exactly

tell

alterations will give

of

usefull hints in this matter.

In the matter of trying-on skirts,

they are easier to

and length.

The

duty.

It

It

The

alter.

it

allways well to have

is

fitting

body

the

what she approves. the cutting,

in

and manipula-

fitting,

when

important that the garment should be carefully examined

is

it

to see that all the details are faithfully carried out

as

over hips,

fit

part of the fitter's

only a small

is

pleasing the wearer, and giving her

important that the greatest care should be taken

is

seams basted outside,

the

points to notice in fitting skirts are, balance or hang,

bear in mind that

well to

is

real art lies in

garment; also

tion of ed,

or to chalk the existence of a defect.

hesitate to use pins,

require patience and coolness.

fitter will

successfully the is

do not

alterations,

the garment should be adjusted to wearer's requirements while

possible,

If

finish-

according to instructions.

examining of a finished garment is quite as much the work of a master hand as any When "cocking" a job, a journeyman will soon sum up what a cutter is worth direction, and to what extent, if he is so inclined, he can take liberties.

The

of the others. in

that

at

once

A

master hand

that

is

it

first

what

state

to be very careful in

man

or inexperienced looks

then

at this,

take hold of a garment

will

not the

then

at that,

in

such a way that

in

it

an awkward way, as

future he has

that in

something

at

he were frightened of

if

he comes

else; then

in

the novice

Ftrst of all

it.

back again to the

does not examine any particular part carefully and methodically. In examining a garment there should be as much system used as

He

impress the tailor

will

it

examined and

that he has

he brings the job to be passed. Whilst, on the other hand

handle

will

way

job by a long

and

first

doing anything

so

else.

he on.

Begin

by examining one part carefully, then another, and so on until the garment is finished. I do not mean that every stitch should be carefully looked into: I think if there is a fair sewing it should be sufficient. Finding fault with every little thing is not examining a job. Finding fault is the easiest thing in

the world; everybody can do that; and there

cutter can find fault with

The

is

made

not a job

in the

ordinary

number of

perfection of a finished garment does not consist in the smallness or the

es there are in that

comprises those Firs of

garment, but

little

all

in

but what the

\\ay

he wants.

if

things

in the

thought and

which make

examining

a

a

work

skill that is

put

in

it

creating

in

stitch-

thing

a

that

of art.

garment, get hold of

it

in

such a way that you create an

impression

you know what you are about, and that your desire is not to find fault, but to see a work of art. First of all take the garment in your right hand, place your left hand in the left scye, and see how the front and sleeve hang; see that the canvas and linings are not in too short; that the sleeve hangs that

and examine the same

reverse the action on to the other side,

fair;

hands

in the

scye and see that the collar

on

is

fair;

the garment up, by getting hold of both sleeves at the back; to see that they run is

no

fulling

inside, al

and see

to the

part

that there

;

when

it

is

it

is

holding

then examine the run of the seams

no straining where they should be even, and that there Turn your attention to the strained.

that the linings are in long in the waist,

because

not

if

it

will

you are

satisfied

inspection place

it

with these points, and that the sewing

on

form and see how the general

a

placed excactly the

same on both

too long or too short, and

if

sides;

the collar

fit

all

that

prove detriment-

that they are both the

whether the is

collar

is

no drag or fulness when

it

should be clean.

should be, then,

same, with the

commands

of a fancy design,

is

and hang of the garment the

turn,

and trimming

according to instructions. See that the run of the smallest part of the waist is

then put both

back by

ought to have been

whether the sleeves are pitched properly, and plaits

at the.

fit.

When for final

even

is

on of one

as the other;

then have a look

is

is

fulness

is,

or

and whether carried

correct;

out

that there


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

321

PART ELEVEN

ALTERATIONS In marking alterations,

this succesfully,

the

what

as

wrong:,

is

do not

the garment should be

If possible,

some

there

is

fit

it

The

Alterations arise from

form.

errors

size

in

Defects show

them-

ways:

principally in three

selves

creases,

twists.

folds,

Creases arise from Folds

arise

back of material.

a

from an excess

material.

of

Tv\ists arise from bad work.

Creases Creases from neck-point to front

of

Diagram 1 are caused by an insuffidistance from neck to front of scye;

scye

)

(

cient

remedy;

let

out front neck

and

shoulder

shoulder-point, reducing the shoulder to

at

proper width

Creases

from

at

scye end.

at

side

of bust to hips;

the

(Diagram 2)

insufficient distance

arise

from prominence

remedy:

arm and reduce

under

out

let

waist to size

back

at

darts.

Crease from side to front 3

)

and

this

from the

small at

from

probably arises

a too long front shoulder;

if

so,

take

front neck and shoulder

neck-point; but let

(Diagram

caused by the front being to

the bottom,

if

it

is all

at

)fT

the

right at shoulder

out bottom of front.

Creases from top of forearm of sleeve to elbow at back

:

Take

off at the top of

the hindarm, and lengthen sleeve

This

is

at

cuff.

equal to adding on a piece at the

top of the forearm.

is

it

is

on,

not always easy to

defect.

a

and to do exactly

tell

of the chapter on

but a study

is

always well

to

have

the

seams

points to notice in fitting skirts are:

over the hips, and length.

in

It

of

existeiice

whilst

usefull hints in this matter.

as they are easier to alter.

and errors

or chalk the

requirements

combination of defects,

a

In the matter of trying-on skirts,

outside,

pins,

pitience and coolness.

will require

fitter

sometimes

alterations will give

hesitate to use

adjusted to wearers

baisted

balance

on or

the

hang,


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

322

These samples must

way they

the

and

run,

suffice to

the principle

illustrate

indicate a shortness

that creases

remedy them, more length must be given

to

the

in

they

direction

in

run.

Folds Folds arise from an excess of material

show an excess

horizontal folds

sleeve having several folds at the top of forearm

way

the opposite

in

;

remedy

the

which

to

an excess of width.

vertical folds

of length,

for this

run;

they

Take

those

the case of a

from

to take off a piece

is

the top of the forearm

Folds over the hips

upwards owing

:

This

an excess of length produced by the

is

to a tightness over the hips.

allow the garment to drop into

Sometimes

The remedy

garment

being

and

to let out at the hips,

is

forced

proper place.

its

from a shortness of

this defect arises

lining,

in

which case the

must

lining

lengthened, or else the jacket must be shortened, and the lining put in the necessary amount It

is

Folds around the neck; These arise from the lining or facings being put

shoulder.

The

slightly at the

shoulder point, but especially

The remedy

back

to shorten the

is

Fold from front of scye as the fold

seam, and take Fulness is

in

To

to narrow.

the facing out across the

let

facing should always be put in wider across the shoulders.

much

Folds across the back: These are caused by too

let

be

fuller.

always well to remember that the linings should be put in long over the waist.

remedy, hollow out gorge

ness,

will

this

is

in the at

to

back

dart,

front edge:

best

always relatively longer than the

way

remedy

to

order to reduce

in

This

is

length in the upper part of the back.

the upper part.

prominence of bust: This

The

V-shaped.

at

it

is

this

perhaps better to let out

is

described

under the arm

as

at

ful-

the side

to the size of waist.

caused by the front edge being cut round, and as the round

straight,

so

it

the cause of the fulness.

is

The remedy

is

to

out at the bottom of front and reduce the size of waist by either enlarging the dart or taking

out another dart.

Tight armholes may be to shallow, or they out the underarm-seam:

remedy

for the third

on back

anough

arise

may be

one

from three

The

the best

remedy

for the

as well as forepart,

as

inlays

are only

best

second one

to let out at shoulder end. left

It

is

may be too narrow,

they

different causes;

too tight on the top.

is

remedy to

for the

first

one

they is

may

to let

lower the armhole; and the best

not necessary

on the forepart

that

as a rule,

it

and

should be done that

is

quite

for the purpose.

Twisting Twisted seams are caused by careless work. the machine

has driven the top layer

only plan to rip the seams and sew

down, and

them

The

fulled

seams has not been properly

on the lower one.

so that they go together fairly.

To

baisted,

remedy

this

and the


PART TWELVE

SKETCHING


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

324

To

be able

cutter, tailor,

You money

to sketch is of great value to

salesman,

can

make

you as a manufacturer, designer,

connection with the womens' wear trade.

etc. in

yourself

more valuable and

that

means more succes and more

for you.

importance that each figure should be practiced diligently.

It is

vital

It is

well for

you

to

surround yourself with Fashion Magazines and

from them the various methods employed by the different

artists.

to

observe


THE AMERICA!^ DESIGNER AND CUTTER

4

325


326

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

ABC

ABC


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

ABC

ABC

327^


328

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

329


330

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

331


332

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER


THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER

333


334

THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER


INDEX Title

5

New Market

Preface

7

Inverness

9

Opera Cloak

Introduction

What

a Designer should know Ladies' Tailors Qualifications

System Good lines

Manipulation of Fronts and Backs

100-101

10

Vest

102-105

11

Stouts 106 Table of Proportionote Measurement for Stouts 107 Semi-Fitting French Seam for Stout 108-109

12 12 12

Womens' Garments to take

Measurement

Comparative Proportions for Normal

14-15

Wom-

ens' Sizes

Table of

Proportionate

17

Masurements

Women

Shirt Waist

110-111

Shirt waist with Side gore 112-113 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 114-115 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining with Side gore 116-117 Sleeve for Waist 118-119

PART ONE How

96-97 98-99

10

11

Contrasts Fashions Style

94-95

for 17

18-19 Systematic Outline 20-21 Tight-Fitting with one dart 22-23 Tight-Fitting with two darts Tight-Fitting back and Semi-Fitting front 24-25 26-27 B.ouse 28-29 Basque or Tunic Skirt Tight-Fitting Eton with one Dart 30-31 32-33 Tight-Fitting Eton with two Darts 34-35 Tig^it-Fitting Eton with one Side Gore 36-37 Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam Tight-Fitting French Seam with underarm 38-39 Gore 40-41 Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 42-43 Tight-Fitting 18 Gores 44-45 Tight-Fitti.ig 22 Gores Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front 46-47 48-49 Semi-Fitting with Dart in front Semi-Fitting French Seam 50-51 Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 52-53 Semi-Fitting Coat with underarm Gore 54-55 Sack Coat with Loose Front 56-57 58-59 Sack Coat with Shaped Front 60-61 How to make Shoulder-Dart 62-63 Loose Box Coat Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 64-65 66-67 Coat Sleeve Sleeve with fulness on toj) 68-69

One Piece Sleeves

120-123

Standing or Military Collar

124-125

Collars for waists

126-127

Yoke

128-129

Shield

128-129

Waist with Kimono Sleeves One Piece Butterfly Waist Waist with Raglan Sleeve

130-131

Measurement

134-135

Systematic Outline for Skirts

136-137

Two Gore

138-139

Skirt

Three and Four Gore Skirt Four Gore (Panel) Skirt Five Gore Skirt Six Gore Skirt Seven Gore Skirt Nine Goi-e Flare Skirt Eleven Gore Flounce Skirt Thirteen Gore Plaited Skirt

146-147

148-249 150-151

152-153 154-135

158-159

Skirt with fixed bottom wilth Skirts for Stouts

132-163

Princess Slip

166-167

160-161

ie4-lC5

PART TWO Misses'

Garments

Table of Proportionate Measureme^.ts for Misses' Sizes

17]

76-77

Capes

78-79

Yoke and Hood

80-81

Systematic Outline for Misses' Skirts Seven Gore Skirt

Cape Coat Cape with Kimono Sleeve Coat with Kimono Sleeve Raglan Coat Deep Armhole Coat

82-83

One

92-93

Piece Coat

144-145

Circular Skirt in Gores Princess Skirt

Collars

86-87

142-143

156-157

Sleeve

84-83

140-141

Circular Skirts

70-71 Bishop Sleeve One Piece Tight Sleeve 72-73 One Piece Tight Sleeve with middle seam 72-73 Collars and Lapels 74-75

68-fc9

132-133

for Skirts

Systematic Outline for Misses' Sizes Tight-Fitting French Seam Semi-Fitting-witting with Dart in Front Sack Coat with Loose Front Loose Box Coat Blouse

One Piece Sleeve

132-133

172-173

174-175 176-177

178-179 180-181

182-183 184-185 186-187 188-189

PART THREE Juniors'

Garments

88-89

Table of Proportionate Measurement for

90-91

Juniors' Sizes Semi-Fitting French

193

Seam

194-195


LTBRflRY OF CONGRESS

013 973 177 3

Loose Box Coat Blouse

1%-197

Misses'

198-199

Seam

Sleeve

200-201

Childrens' and Infants' Semi-Fitting

Five Gore Skirt Circular Skirt

202-203

Childrens' and Infants' Loose

204-205

Sleeves

PART FOUR Childrens'

Garments

and

208-

Childrens' Sizes

Tight-Fitting

Semi-Fitting

214- 215

Sack Coat Loose Box Coat Sleeve Tight-Fitting Waist Lining

216- 217

Waist

224- 225

Coat Dress

226

Military or Standing Collar One Piece Sleeves

228 229

Collars

234- 235

218- 219

220 221 222 223 .227

230- 233

238- 239

PART FIVE Infants'

Garments

Table of Proportionate Measurements for

271

Box Coat

272 273 274

Length of Garments Grading Lengths Grading Skirts

275 275 276

PART SEVEN Special

Measurement

278-279 Foundation of Garment Cutting 280-281 How to take Special Measurement Systematic Outline for Special Measure-

ment

282-283

Tight-Fitting French

Seam

284-285

Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front Systematic Outline, No Seams Tight-Fitting Jacket, No Seams

How

Measurement Direct Short Measure System to take

Special

286-287

288-289 290-291 for

292

PART EIGHT

Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 236 237 Five Gore Skirt

French

Capes, Yokes, Collars, Cuffs

209

210 211 212- 213

Tight-Fitting

270

Table of Proportionate Measurements for Systematic Outline

Juniors'

Riding and Sporting Garments Riding Skirts

294-295

Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Apron Riding Skirt

296-297 300-301

298-299

Coat Dress

250-251

One Piece Sleevesl Infants' Yoke

252-253

254-255

Hints on Making Apron Riding Skirts Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns Ride Astride Skirt Making Ride Astride Skirts Riding Coat, Special Measure, No Seams Riding Coat, Special Measure, with Seams Pantaloon Skirt Ladies' Riding Breeches

Infants' Shield

254-255

Leggings

316

Hood

256-257

Gaiters

316

243

Infants' Sizes

Systematic Outline for Infants' Sizes

244-245

Loose Box Coat

246-247

Sleeve

248-249

\

PART SIX

302-303 304-305 306-307

308-309 310-311

312-313 314-315

PART NINE

Grading

Practical Tailoring

Art of Grading Scale of Regular Stock Patterns

260 261

Tight-Fitting with Dart

262

Semi-Fitting with Side Gore

263

Eton

264

Semi-Fitting French Seam Tight-Fitting French Seam Tight-Fitting Double French Seam How to grade Misses' Sizes from Size Patterns Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting

265

317-318

PART TEN Fitting

PART ELEVEN

266

PART TWELVE

267

Sketching

Ladies' 2(i8

269

335-336


c^,^

(^~ /n


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.