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1008



THE American Garment Cutter FOR

WOMEN'S GARMENTS SECOND EDITION

^A

complete, practical, up-to-date

treatise on the cutting of

WOMEN'S GARMENTS according

the latest and

to

most

approved method

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY PUBLISHERS NEW YORK - LONDON - PARIS - BERLIN - VIENNA ir

,

"-

n

\1

i.A


o.\^

^.^^ o

INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. Entered according to the act of Congress

1913

in the

year 1913

by

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY In the oHice of the Librarian at Washington. D. C.

All Rights reserved

Reproduction Interdite

Vervielfaeltigung Untersagt

-<^^/erf

ri>'

^ '''^^i


PrFfarp to ^"tHE / 1

1

^^

lltp

First Edition of the

^Fronli

American Garment Cutter met with un-

precedented success, in reference both to Ladies' Tailoring Trade as a

and the demand for the book

The

iEfitttnn

work on

its

acceptance by the

cutting par

excellence

itself.

call for this auxiliary instructor in

the drafting and cutting

of ladies tailor-made apparel by a practical, yet simple system, has

completely exhausted the First Edition; and in devoting ourselves to the Second Edition we have carefully considered the up-to-date needs of the trade in

its

preparation.

Therefore, while fully covering the matter of detailed considerall standard garments, the taking of the measures, the cor-

ation of

rect drafting of the patterns, tables of proportions,

so highly

commended

in the first edition,

we have

and other features recognized the im-

perative need of "modernizing," so to say the treatment of the suband while not getting away from the fundamental principles as

ject,

set forth in the earlier issue, the present work has been revised and supplemented with much new material and many illustrations, making it in every way a worthy successor to the First Edition. in the satisfaction that this

work

will duplicate the successof the

American Garment Cutter, First Edition, we present practical use and consideration.

it

for

your

The Author,

GUSTAV ENGELMANN


DEDICATION

TO

the

thousands of Tailors throughout

the World

whose

are

lives

unselfishly

consecrated to the production of perfect fitting

garments for women,

this

work

is

dedicated in

the most cordial wishes of

The (Author.


Measurements



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS

WOMEN Sizes


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

10

PROPORTIONAL WIDTHS s-e

From 4Feet 4in.to 6Feet.

4FT.4IN.

Diagram

2

6 FEET


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

«""

PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS

11


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

12

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES. In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that she be treated in such a that she feel perfectly at ease in every way, hence will assume her natural attitude. Act quickly but quietly; don't get flustered yourself; converse naturally with her, to take her mind from the fact that she is being measured, otherwise she will inevitably and unconsciously "pose," which will result in a misfit, meaning trouble, alterations, loss of prestige,

manner

etc.

»

Be very careful in measuring to place the tape close to the body, neither too tight nor The success of the garment depends greatly too loose, and see to it that it is not crooked. on the balance, which the measurement alone can ascertain. It is therefore imperative that must again the body of your customer be in its natural pose when the measure is taken. impress upon you the necessity of so arranging matters that you will keep her body in its proper pose. It is a very common occurence that a person whose natural attitude is somewhat stfKjping will erect herself during the operation of measuring, which should be avoidTake special notice of the foregoing instruction. ed.

We

TAKING THE MEASURE. Diagram

4,

N.

1

;

Diagram

No.

4,

-;*»»;««»,2.

FIR.ST Mark shoulder seam with two pins, one at 8, the other at 9. This is very important, and great care should be taken not to get this particular seam too far front or back.

SECOND Place tape high up under arm as line 1 shows, and mark with pins for shoulder height measure at 22 and 15 on front and 24-25 on back, directly under shoulder pins previously placed. BUST MEASURE — Move

tape

down

to

fullest

part

of

bust

and

2)

(i)iiint

take

measure.

W.MST MEASURE — Draw illl'

ME.ASURE — Move

ure fairly tight.

tape tight arcnind waist and lake measure.

down

tape

Four inches lower

NECK ME.ASURE — Measure

is

a

four (4) inches below waist to point second hip measure, puint 5.

around neck with

and meas-

4,

ease, not too tight nor yet too loose.

CHEST— 21-20. From armscye to armscye across chest. NECK FRONT TO WAIST —6-2-3. From lowest point of neck measure

.\CR()SS

to fullest part

of bust to wraist front.

SHOULDER HEIGHT FRONT—8-22

and

Measure from pins on shoulder

9.15.

1o

pins ])laced on bust.

SFK

)ULDER HEIGHT BACK—8-24

and

9-25.

Measure from pins on shoulder

to pins

placed on back.

LENGTH BACK TO WAIST—6-1-3. From collarbone to center of .'\CROSS BACK —23-n. From armscye to armscye across back. UNDER ARM — Place the end of tape a little back of directly under the measure to bottom of belt.

Be very

careful to get this

OUTSIDE SLEEVE— 7-11-12-13. From

back

the

to waist.

arm

;

then take

measure long enough.

center of back to armscye, elbow and wrist.

SKIRT MEASURE. Take waist measure same

as for jacket,

and

for hip

LENGTH FRONT—3-16 from waistband to floor. LENGTH SIDE— 18-17 from waistband to floor. LENGTH BACK— 3-19 from waistband to floor.

,

measure, 6 inches below waist.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

4 No.

1

Diagram 4 No.

2

13


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

14

JACKET LESSON Diagram

I.

5

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

15'

inches

Shoulder Heights Back

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height and

17!.-

inches

Length

"'4

Length rrnnt of Waist

j

of

Sjj inches

A

line

From

A

to

C

is

Shoulder

From A

to

E

is

E

to

F

to

F

is

15^

D

to

This

1

D

to

O

is

inches, length of waist in Ijack.

inch

is

C E F and B

3/ of bust

we allowed

to

G

is

jS4

to

H

is

y^ of bust

C

to

Y

line

measure plus

A 1

B.

inch.

In this case 20 inches.

lost in cutting out the pattern.

of bust measure, in this case 5 inches.

measure plus lli

inches, in this case

4

inches.

254 inches.

This point changes

C

is

on

;^ inch allowed for breathing.

D G

is

first hip.

4 inches, the second hip.

Square over points

From C

inches, neck height in back.

4 inches, the

is

B

B.

7^

more or

}i,

to I is 7 inches, yi of

Square point

D

and

Square up points

G

H I

less

according to larger or smaller

back measure.

up and down.

Y

on

line

C

D.

— 7>^ 8^ — 6 — 9>^

to Waist-. --7,'/4

LMSTRUCTIONS. Draw

14

:,

sizes.

inches

inches inches

15jl'

inches

5.>4

indies


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

15

A

D

-^

^

-4^

^

^DO

-^^E

-^DP

4)6

Diagram

5


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

16

JACKET LESSON

II.

Diagram 6

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights Front.

Across Chest

15 ,'4

inches

Neck

15

inches

— 7>^ Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8^4 Neck Height and Waist. .734 — 15^

— 17>^

inches

Length of Shoulder

Length Front of Waist.

.

.

.73.4

8j4 inches 14 .

.

.gYz

to

5%

inches inches inches inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. C

to

P

Y

to

O

R

to

S

6 inches, the second shoulder height back. 834 inches, the first shoulder heiglit back. Square over A and P on line A B. In squaring P over point R is found crossing line I. is

is

is

>4 inch.

At

G X

front,

to to

X

is

5^

H

2 inches. Square over point 1

O

A O

S, inches. and draw back shoulder Square point 3. to 3 is 7^4 inches, second shoulder height front. over IJ-j inches to point 31. 9y2 inches, first shoulder height from. Square point

Draft neck

X

is

1

to 27.

Draft neck curve from 31 to 27.

.

Draw front shoulder from 31 to 3, 5)4 inches, Z to 2 is 7-54 inches, ^ of chest measure.

the

same

as back shoulder O. S.

Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to 3. In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line I. R. Also do not bring it below the f)ust line. It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully and get the shape as near as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large while a small armscye can easily be made larger.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

I7

31®^^)X

-^^E

-i^T

4b Diagram 6


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

18

.

TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT. Diagram

7

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

9>^

Across Chest

15j/ inches

Shoulder Height Back

6

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height and

— 17j4

inches

Length of Shoulder....

Length Front of Waist

7^4

8j/ inches 14

to Waist.. ..7j4

— 7>1 — 8yl — 15/4 5-)4

inches

inches

inches inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. E to J is I'/j inches in all cases. ly4 inches. This measure varies J4 inch according to larger or smaller size where the back is tight fitting with two gores. Waist measure 25 inches, 34 of same is 6^4 inches, which must be divided into Jj back and two equal gores. to L is 1 inch. L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need 5 inches in this case, the otiier 2'4 inches are taken out The remaining 5 inches are to be divided equally into in two darts oi 1% inches each. two gores of 2j4 inches each. L to 4, 2y2 inches; 4 to 5, l^s inches; 5 to 6, 2y2 inches; 6 to 7, lH inches. 1'4 inches. On hip line measure from F to Draw center back from A through J to \'. Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure inch to 15, no allowances to be made for point 10. Fake the center of 4 and 5, s(]uare dowi> where line crosses on hip, measure y^ inch to 7S and inch to 74. Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure j^ inch to 13 and yi inch to 14. 28 to 30 is inches length of underarm measure. At waist

J to

K

line

is

K

V

y

^

Sy

waist line from L to 30. R to T is 2^4 inches. Draw guide line from K at waist line to T. Go out from guide line on bust line 1 inch to U. Shape back and side gores as shown. Measure hip from to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 203'j inches, j/j of hip measure. 33 to 18 is iy> inches. This 1^4 inches is taken out in the front dart at waist line between 9 and 8. Measure back neck O, which is 2y2 mches. Place this 2y> inches at front neck on point 32 to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. Draw center front line from 27 through to 18 to length of coat. 27 to is 7% inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 173^ inches. Length waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. To place dart, measure from at waist line to 9, 3^4 inches. Take out from 9 to 8 1^4 inches. This l^^ inches we allowed from 33 to 18. On front bust line from Q measure over 3)4 inches, and from this point down to measure 3j4 inches. Take the center 8, 9, draw a line up to W, down and shape dart as diagram shows.

Draw new

V

A

O

Q

M

M

W


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

7

19


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

20

TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT COMPLETE. Diagram

8

MEASURES. 8^

......38

inches

Underarm

25

inches

Across Back

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

956

inches

Across Chest

15j4 inches

Shoulder Height Back

....-8%

inches

Neck

15

Bust

Waist

Hips

.

inches

Neck Height

inches

14

to

Waist

— 7>4 —6 7j4 — 15>4 5^

Shoulder

inches

inches

jnches

INSTRUCTIONS.

How

to

make garment double

Measure from front

line

O

18,

breasted.

2 inches to 26, 71 and draw

For buttons measure the same distance back from front in

To

line.

line

O

18 and

mark buttons

inch.

1

a straight line from the bottom of lapel 26 through 23 to 24.

32 to 21

35 to 36

2%

is

Square on

line

is

Shape back

Shape

shown

diagram.

obtain collar and lapels measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23,

Draw

as

inches, ^4 inch

26, 24.

more than

the neck

measure

O

A.

'

ly^ inches, to 25 for standing band and 3 inches to 35.

yi inch for spring. line of collar

collar

and

lapel as

from

25, 24, 21 to 36.

diagram shows.

Place separate paper under collar, trace out according to shape of collar.

To

trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under

be reversed on oppositie

side.

and trace out the shape of

lapel,

which

will


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

11

12

Diagram

8

21


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOME^f

22

TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH

TWO

DARTS.

Diagram 9

INSTRUCTIONS.

8^

Bust

v^8

inches

Underarm

Waist

23

inches

Across Back

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

IS^/^

inches

Shoulder Height Back

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height and

— 17^

inches

Shoulder Height Back

Length of Shoulder

5J4 inches

Hip

-

7'4

Length Front of Waist

inches inches

14

9_^

7y2 inches

8^4 inches

to Waist.... 7J4

6

— 15/4 — 8J4

inches inches

MEASURES. front. Follow same instructions as given in First, Second and Third Lessons with exception At hip line measure from \' to 10, 15 to 74, "5 to 14, 13 to 18, which is 20>4 inches plus 1 inch. This 1 inch is taken out between the two front darts at hip line, j/j inch in each. Draw center front line from 27 through O 18, slightly shaped to 71. 27 to D is 734 inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 1734 inches, length of waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. which is 34 of back measure, on point 30, and measure over 12; 2 inches Place the 6^4 inches 01 waist measure. to point 63, which is is 3 inches. 63 to i

f

M

,

^

M

These 3 inches are divided equally' into the two front darts at waist to 62, 2 inches. To place darts, measure at waist line from

M

line,

of

1

!

j

inches each.

62 to 63 is 134 inches. 63 to 9 is 1 inch. 9 to 8 is 134 inches.

On

from D measure over 3^ inches, and from this point down 3 inches to U. measure over to 234 inches, and from this point up to the bust line 23/ inches,

front bust line

From

U

W

which gives us the height of Take the center of 62 and 63 from waist line to 57,

darts. at waist line,

draw

a line tip to

U

and measure 6 inches down

the center of 8, 9 at waist line, draw a line up to ^V, and measure down 6 inches from waist line to 58. The first dart where line crosses on hip measure J4 in'^h to 59 and 34 i'l*-"!! to 60. The second dart where line crosses on hip measure 34 in.i-'h to 16 and '4 v\<:\\ to 17 and shape dart as diagram shows. at the waist line to 54. 1 incli. To make garment double breasted measure from

Take

M

At neck 27

Draw

to 52

is

1

inch.

opposite line from 71 through 54, 54 to 53 is 134 inches. 71 to 55 is 234 inches. Shape front as diagram shows.

Q

to ^1, ^2 to 51

is

4 inches.

inch. To obtain lay down collar, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23, Draw line from 27 through 23 to 24, 32 to 21 is 2-'4 inches, '4 ini-'li more than the back neck 1

measure. A O. Square on line 27, 24, I34 inches to 2't< for standing band and 3 inches to Z'h. 35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. -Shape the back of collar from 25 through 24, 21 to 36, as shown in diagram.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 9

n


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

24

TIGHT FITTING BACK LOOSE FRONT FRENCH SEAMS. Diagram 10

MEASURES. 38

inches

Underarm

-5

inches

Across Back

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights,

Across Chest

15>2 inches

Neck

15

Bust

Waist

-

inches

8>4 inches

Front

Shoulder Heights Back

Neck Height and

inches

14

to

— 854 — 6 —

9>^

Waist. ..734

Shoulder

7]/2

inches inches

1-^>^

inches

5^

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given French seams.

in the First,

Second and Third Lessons,

Back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. to S is 2.>4 inches. At back bust line C to U is 3^ inches. Shape the back and side gore as aiagrani shows. At front shoulder 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder 22 to 20 is 2 inches. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 20 to 19 is 2^4 inches, the same as back shoulder T to S. Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19.

vvitli

the exception of

T

On

front bust

'line

D

to

W

is

O

to T.

334 inches.

Shape the front as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted measure from the front ime O 18. 1 inches to 26, 71 and draw line. For buttons measure the same distance back from front line Q 18 and mark buttons as diagram shows.

To obtain shawl collar and Draw a line from the botom

lapel,

measure from the deepest point of neck 31

to 23,

1

inch.

of lapel at 26 through 23, 24. O. more than back neck measure inch inches, is 34 21 32 to Square over on line 24, 26, 134 inches to 25 standing band and over to 35. 35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 30.

2M

A

collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place separate piece of paper under collar and traced out according to shape of collar. To trace out lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on opposite side. at bust line and meet the two the two front gores, lay pattern together on point out Cut points on shoulder 22 and 20. At neck point 32 raise 34 inch and point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 11 through 3 to 40.

Shape

W


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 2B(a.

24

Diagram

10

25


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

26

TIGHT FITTED JACKET FRENCH SEAMS. Diagram

h

MEASURES. 38

Hust

Waist Hips Across Chest

25 41

-

1-

IS"/

Neck

15

Length Front of Waist

/yl

— 17^

inches inches inches inches inches' inches

L'nderarm Across Back 9^^ Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back 6 Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 Length of Shoulder

— — —

8>4 inches inches 14 Jyi inches 8yi inches IS^/^ inches 5)4 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given front and French seams.

Back shoulder

T

to S,

On

O

T

to inches.

2%

bust line

C

to

C

is

is

in the First,

3 inches.

3)4 inches.

At hip measure from F to V, 1J4 inches. Take the center of L K square down, where to

Take

Second and Third Lessons with the exception of

line crosses

on

hip,

measure

)'s

line crosses

on

hip,

measure

yi inch to

inch to 15, ji inch

10.

the center of 4,

5,

square

down where

7:i,

^i inch

to 74.

the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 13 and y?, inch to 14. Measure hip from \' to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 18, which is20| inches J/ of hip measure These 2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip, between 16 and 17. plus 2 inches. 28 to 30 is inches underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30, shape back as diagram shows. Measure back neck O, which is Zyi inches, place these 2>4 inches on front neck at point 22, measure to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. 27 to is 7'/i inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 17^ inches, length waist in front. through Draw front line from to 27 and down from .M to 18 slightly shaped to /I. Draw new waist line from 30 to J\I. Place the 6J4 inches, which is 34 of waist measure, in back on jwint 30. measure over 12y2 inches, which is '/j of waist measure jilus J inch, which gi\es us point V.

Take

8^

A

O

M

M

O

;

9 to

M

These

is

2"/^

and

214 inches. inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out

in

front dart

between 9

8.

to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on ])oint 3, which gives us point 20 to 19 is 2)4 inches, the same as back shoulder T S. Reshape arniscye from 28 through H to 19. At front bust line O to is 3^4 inches. •Shape the front as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted, measure from j\I at the waist line 1 inch to 54. At neck 27 to 52 is 1 inch. Draw opposite line from 71 through 54 O to 52. 52 to 51 is 4 inches.

At front shoulder, 32

22 to 20

is

19.

W

71 to 55 is 2J/2 inches. 54 to 53 is 1^ inches. Shape the front as diagram shows. Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point points on shoulder 22 and 20. At neck point 32 is raised "4 inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to -10.

W

at

bust

line,

and meet the two


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

11

27


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

28

REGULAR COAT SLEEVE. Diagram

12

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

To Elbow

7

inches

Full

Half of Back

19>4 inches'

29>4 inches

Length

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

A

to

A — B. A

line

B

M

Square over pletes

all

given points.

box for

L

inch.

1

bust plus

3^2

sleeve. to

C

inch, 5

— H.

K

is

the center of

B

H

to

G

Draw

is

1

inch.

is

A

3^ of back measure, 7 inches.

is

full length, 291/- inches.

is

is

to

M

to

is

D

is

y^

M

to

S

N

is

the center of

of bust less

J4 of bust, 9 inches.

M—

O

to

P

Square down

J/

inch to

Vz inch.

is

'/^

1

to

inch,

inch.

T

is

3,1/.

to

N to R is

1

Top

sleeve

from

inches to elbow.

inches.

This com-

M

O, 2V2 inches. inch.

R

to

U

is

to

I

y^ of

inches.

line

from

G

J.

through J to E.

J to

V

is

Sy^ inches.

inches.

Shape undersleeve from

l9'/2

Square down S to H.

Square

.S.

L

G—R—O — N — U

G —R — P—O— I— C— E.

lu V.

This completes coat sleeve.

G

to

E

is

6,'/


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

12

29


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

30

HOW

TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP. Diagram

13

INSTRUCTIONS.

A

regular sleeve

is

1

inch from

At elbow IK' inches C At

top.

N

to

O

Shape as shown.

is

M

to

I,

in this

case

is

to C.

IK' inches, in this case 3 inches.

3^

inches.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

13

31


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

HOW TO MAKE REGULAR

SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER

Diagram

14

INSTRUCTIONS. Keep

elliow in er,

At

C

I

A

to

G

is

1

At bottom,

E

to

P

is

1

The heavy

To make

is

the original sleeve.

is

This sleeve

is

inch.

1

D

to

H I

is

to

M

inch, J to

inch,

1

is

N

1

is

B

inch, 1

F

to

K

is

to

1

O

inch. is

1

inch.

1

inch on top and

inch.

line is the correct length.

sleeve longer, the

For regular

line

inch.

At undersleeve,

L

The doUcil

place.

inch at top and bottom.

top,

to

same

sleeve follow

same way, add

same instructions

as given in

1

diagram

inch at bottom. 12,

page 28.

2 inches short-


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

14

33


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

34

BISHOP SLEEVE. UlAlJRAlM 15

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

D

inches.

A

to

E

A

A^B.

line

B

to

16 inches,

is

to J is

_'

is

H

4>j inches, yi of bnst measure. of bust measure, 9 inches.

D

J to

Square over

inches less than yj of bust measure.

is

ail

{

of bust measure,

')

given points.

Square dovn

E

to K.

This completes box for sleeve.

Take center of to

G

Square up

is

O

K— B, yi

to

N

which gives us point T.

inch; i

X

inch.

Shape sleeve as shown.

to

A

1'

and

to

F

is

j

to

C

is

T

Square down I

2/4 inches;

inch

E

to

;

O 1

is

V^

is 3}'4

to

the

M

3 inches.

distance of

inches.

D to O A — E.

and P


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

IS

35


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

36

SEMI-FITTING

WITH UNDER GORE.

DiAGRAJI 16

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front.-

9j^

Shoulder Height Back.-

6

Hip

-

8J4 inches 14

Across Chest

15j^ inches

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height and

173/^

inches

Length of

Length Front of Waist

7y^

to Waist... .734

— — 8)4 — 15^4 /J/j

5^

Shoulder

inches inches inches

inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

in the First

and Second Lessons,

witli

the exception of

the

back.

At waist

line

At hip F

to

Draw

E

V

to J

34 inch.

34 inch.

center back line from

T

is

waist line from J to 7

is

At back shoulder .At

is

Measure from 7

Take

R

to

to 6,

1

A

through

J

V

This garment

to 79.

line crosses

on

10 inches.

inch.

hip,

Take the center of 6 and Yi,

28 to 30

to 13 is

Draw new

and

}i,

cut with a center back seam.

434 inches.

the center of J 6. and from this point measure

Where

is

measure 34 of an inch 7,

vj^

to 10,

of an inch to

K

anfl ^% of an inch to L.

and 34 of an inch

to 15.

square up to 28 and down, and where line crosses on hip measure

to 14.

834 inches length of underarm. waist line 30 to L.

Shape the back gores as diagram shows.

To

draft front, collar and lapel, follow instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

i6

37


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

38

COAT WITH SEAMS AT

SEMI-FITTING

Diagram

SIDE

AND SAILOR COLLAR.

17

MEASURES. 38

inches

Underarm

25

inches

Across Back

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

9^ —

Across Chest

15>4 inches

Shoulder Heights Back

8^4

Neck

15

Bust

Waist

-

-

Hips

-

Length Front Waist

7j4

,

— 17>^

8J^ inches inches

14

inches

Neck Height and

inches

Length of Shoulder

to Waist. ..-7>4

lYi inches

—6 —

inches

15J/'

inches

5-^4

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. r^ollow instructions as given in First

At waist

Draw

E

to J

is

At

'i inch.

center back line from

At back shoulder, waist, J to 7

is

R

to

T

A

is

through

to J

\'

to length of coat.

AYz inches.

10 inches.

From

7 to 6

Take

the center of 6, inch to 13 and

is 1

and Second Lessons.

inch. 7,

square up to 28 and

3,^

of inch to 14.

down where

line crosses

on

hip,

measure

>4

of

K

and '/•& line take the center from J to 6, and from this point measure y% of an inch to Square down from this point where line crosses on hip, measure J4 of an inch to L. of an inch to 10 and Yi oi an inch to 15.

At waist

28 to 30

Draw new For

8^/2

is

inches length of underarm.

w^aist line

from L

entire front follow

to 30.

same instructions

as given in the semi-fitting coat, with the exception of

shaping the seam to armhole.

Shape seam

Take out

To

JS

to

armhole instead of shoulder.

inch at armhole.

draft front, 'sailor

collar

coat with shawl collar.

Shape as diagram shows. and

lapel follow

same instructions

as

given in

the

semi-fitting


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

4zL-#f

-n*

39

-#B

m DIA^;KA^^

17


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

40

LOOSE SEMI-FITTING COAT. DlAGKAM

18

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

23

inches

Across Back

8>1 inches 14

._

Hip

41

inches

Across Chest

151-^

inches

Neck

15

inches

9^ — 7>2 Shoulder Height Front 6 — 834 Shoulder Height Back Neck Height and to Waist -.7 — 1^34

inches

Length of

7^ — 17j4

Length Front of Waist

"4

Shoulder

inches inches inches inches

5)4 inclics

INSTRUCTIONS. as gi\en in First

Follow same instructions

At waist

line

E

to J >j inch.

At back shoulder

T (

.\t

S

to

)n

A

center hack line from

Draw

2-I4

line

back waist to

L

L

to

6

6 to 7

Take

O

to

T

through

\' J

to length of coat.

3 inches.

is

inches.

hack bust

K

and Second Lessons.

U is 2 to K is

Y

to

line J

inches.

3-':^

inches.

34 inch.

is

is

5 inches.

is

-H of an inch.

the center of

L

K, square

down where

line

crosses on hip, measure 34

i'l^'h

io

10

and

34 inch to 15.

Take

the center of 6 and 7, square

of an inch to 13 and

28 to

30

8^2 inches

is

Draw new

waist line

L

front, lapel

shawl

collar.

and

a

to

28 and

down where

line crosses

on

hip,

nteasure

-J^

inch to 14.

underarm measure. to 30.

Shape the two back gores For the

•}

up

as

diagram shows.

collar follow the

same instructions as given

in

the semi-fitting c-oat with


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

18

41


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR.

42

.

Diagram 19

MEASURES. Bust

38 25

Waist Hips Across Chest

41 15J.-2

Neck

15

:

7^ — 17^

Length Front of Waist

inches inches inches inches inches inches

Underarm

inches inches 7^/2 inches 8j4 inches ^15>^ inches 5^ inches S'/i

Across Back Shoulder Height Front 9j/2 Shoulder Height Back 6 Neck Height and to Waist-.-7i4 Length of Shoulder

— —

14

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same At waist line

Draw

instructions as given in the First

^

E

to J is inch. center back line from through J

The back T to S is

shoulder,

O

A

to T,

is

\'

and Second Lessons.

to length of coat.

3 inches.

2'>4 inches.

back bust line Y to U is 2 mches. Measure at back waist line from J to K Z-}^ inches. K to L, j4 of an inch. L to 6 is 5 inches. 6 to 7 is 1 inch. and L 6 is 7^/4 inches, Ijj inches more than '4 of the natural waist measure. J, Take the center of L K, square down wiiere line crosses on hip, measure J4 inch to

On

K

10,

^^2

inch

to 15.

%

Take

the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure of an inch to 13 and ^/g, of an inch to 14. 28 to 30 is 83/' inches underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30. Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. Measure hip from to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to ^3, which is 20J.2 inches, j-i of nip measure, 23 to 18 is !/> inches. These I'/i inches are taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 and 17. Measure back neck, O, which is 2'/: inches. Place these 2' 2 inches on point 32 on front neck, and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. Draw front line from througli IS to 45. 27 to is 73^4 inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is U'/i inches, length front of waist. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inclies, the same as back shoulder, T. From on front bust line measure 3H inches to W. At waist line, to 9 is 3 inches. 9 to 8 is 1>4 inches. At hip, 18 to 17 is 4 inches, and 17 to 16 is H/> inches. 22 to 20 at shoulder is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 3, which gives us point 19.

V

A

O

Q

M

O

O

M

Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. To make garment double Ijreasted measure from front

line

O

18, 2 inches to 26, 71

line

Q

18 and

and draw

line.

For buttons measure the same distance

Ijack

from front

mark buttons

as

diagram

shows.

To

obtain collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck. 31 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw a line from the bottom of lape! at 26 through 23 to 24. 32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, 54 inch more than the back neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24, 26 1J4 inches, to 25 for standing band, and over to 3S. .Anv desired width of collar. 35 to 36 is 34 inch allowed for spring. Shape back of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. Shape the collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn ]5aper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on the opposite side. How to cut out the two front gores. Lay pattern together at point at bust line and meet the points on shoulder 22 and 20. At point 32 on neck raise 34 inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40.

W


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

DlAC.NAM

19

4^


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

44

SEVEN EIGHTH FITFING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE Diagram 20

MEASURES. Bust Waist

Hip Across Chest

Neck Length Front of Waist

..8;^

—

52 39 52 18 18 17

inches inches inches inches inches inches

Underarm

8

Across Back Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back Neck Height to Waist Length of Shoulder

-

17 9

9'^-

7

11

inches inches inches inches inches inches

8 -,-17 S'i

INSTRUCTIONS. A to li V'/i inches, length

Draw line A, B. A to C is S'/i inches. waist in back. E to F is 4 inches the first hip. F to B is 4 inciics the second hip. Square over points C, E, F and B on line A, B. C to D is yi of bust measure plus 1 inch in thi-; c.ise 27 inches. This inch we allowed 1

is

iost in cut-

ting out the pattern. to Q is J/^ inch allowed for breathing. D to G is J4 of bust measure, in this case 6^ inches. G to is ]/s of bust measure plus lyi inches, in this case A-Ji inches. C to Y in a regular 36 size is 2}i inches; we allow ^g more for each size in this case, which is 3J4 inches. C to I is 8^ inches, "X of back measure. Square points D and up and down and square up points G, I, Y on line C, D. .\t back, C to P is 7 inches, second shoulder height back. Y to is 9J-2 inches, first shoulder height back. Square over A and P on line A, B. In squaring over P point R is found crossing line I. R to S is 1 inch, in this case according to the length of the shoulder. Draft back neck, O, and draw back shoulder, to S. At front, to 3 is 9 inches, second shoulder height front. G to is 11 inches, the first shoulder height front. X to 32 in a regular 36 size is Ij^ inches. allowed 14 more for each size, in this case it is 2]/^ inches. X to I in a regular 36 size is 2 inches. allowed 1/16 of an incli more for each size, in this case it is 2"^ inches. Square point 1 to 27 and draw a line. Draft front neck curve from 32 to 27 and draw front shoulder from 32 .to 27, 6% inches, the same as back shoulder, S. Z to 2 is 9;/2 inches, yi of chest measure. Draw arm scye from S through H, 2 to 7. .\t back shoulder to T is 3% inches. T to 29 is '/^ inch taken out. This yi inch we add on point S, 29 to S is 3 inches. take out this 1/2 inch between T and 29 when the figure is round across the back. On back bust line, Y to is 2 mches. .\t waist line E to J is J^ inch. J to 4 is 14^4 inches; in this case we only need 11^ inches, which is The other 2^ inches are taken out between the darts J4 of the waist measure plus lyi mches. 30 and 38, L and K. is 4 inches. .K to L is 1 inch. L to 38 is 7!4 inches. 38 to 30 is 1}4 inches. J to 30 to 37 is lJ/2 inches. In this case, in order to place the seam direct under the arm so the two jide gores will be equal. and L 38 is II14 inches, which is Ij^ inches more than of the natural waist measure which we J,

D

H

H

O

X

A

H

O

We

We

O

O

We

U

K

K

allow in

all

%

%

fitting coats.

Take

the center of L, K; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, J^ inch to 15 and of an inch to 10. Take the center of 6 and 7; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, 1^4 inches to 13 and }4 inch to 14. From the center line of L, at bottom measure 6 inches to 44 and 4 inches to 43. From center line of 6 and 7 at bottom measure 4 inches to SO and 6J4 inches to 81, 28 to 30 is 8 inches length of underarm. Draw a new waist line from L to 30 and shape the two back gores as diagram shows. Measure hip from to 10; IS to 14; 13 to 33, which is 26 inches, !i of hip measure. 33 to 18 is 3 inches. These 3 inches less i/o inch are taken out between tlie front dart at hip line 16, 17. This yi inch less we leave in on all stout figures. Draw front line from through 18 to 45. At neck, from 27 to Q is SJ-^ inches, the highest point of chest. is 16 inches, length waist in front. 27 to Draw new waist line from 30 to M. At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3% inches, the same as back shoulder, O, T. 22 to 20 is 3 inches taken out in this case when the figure has a high chest. These 3 inches we allow on point 27 which gives us point 40. Shape arm scye from S through 28 to 40. At bust line D to is 4 inches. .At waist line to 9 is 3)4 inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. .\t hip line 18 to 17 is 4^ inches. 17 to 16 is 25-2 inches. .Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. For double-breasted, collar and lapel, also how to lay pattern together and cut out, follow the same instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.

%

K

V

Q

M

M

W


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

#2-^ Diagram 20

45


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

46

HIPLESS COAT Diagram

21

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

I'nderarin

Waist

23

inclics

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front-

93^2

Across Chest

l5'/2

inches

Shoulder Height Back

6

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height and

— 17j^

inches

Length of

Length Front of Waist

7;4

8y^ inches 14

to Waist-. --7^4

inches

— 7/2 — 8J4 — 15>j

inches

S-}^

inciics

Shoulder

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box. as semi-fitting coat Diagram 19. Our natural waist line is E to S2. Go un 21-2 inches, which is point W. to J is '/2 inch; J to K is 3'/4 inches; to L is 'ji inch L to 10 is Syi inches; 10 to 12 is 1 inch; 30 is half of L to K. Square down to 14. 11 is half of 10 to 12; square up to 9 and down to 18.

W

K

;

— 14

(^n line 30

^

to 13

come out on hip ji to 41, _ to V; on and shape gores as shown in (hagram. ',

line

9

— 18

come out on hip

:ys

to

17;

Length front of waist from U to 4 is 15 inches; draw waist line 4 to 12 and take out between 3 and 2, 1 inch complete coat according to diagram. For double breasted collar, and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. ;


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

24

23

Diagram

21

47


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

48

LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT. Diagram 22

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights,

Across Chest

ISy? inches

Neck

15

7% — 17>'j

Length Front Waist

8}^ inches 14

Front

Shoulder Heights Back

inches

Neck Height and

inches

Shoulder

— 834 — 6 7j4 — 9>2

to Waist.... /.

/'/i

inches inches

inches

15!'2

inches

^j-i

inches

'4

inch to

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

From V

at

From E

to J

J to

K

to

L

L

to

6

6 to 7

is

measure Ja

and square over.

inch.

inch.

1/2

3->4 inches.

is

inch.

'/>

is

and

10,

I

'2

K

^

Measure

is

and square down, and where

of inch to 13,

on hip measure

7, .^g

square up

lo

2S and

down where

line crosses

on hip.

of inch to 14.

7 inches underarm measure.

Shape the two back gores

as

diagram shows.

Follow same instructions for the front as given length in front, which

This coat

line crosses

inch to 15.

the center of 6 and

28 to 30

E

inches.

Take the center of L

Take

and Second Lessons.

waist line measure up I'j inches to

is 5

K

in First

is

is

cut without a lap.

16 inches.

in semi-fitting coat,

with the exception of the


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 22

49


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

50

MONTE CARLO BOX COAT. Diagram

2}

MEASURES. 38

inches

L'nderarm

.25

inches

.\cross

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

ISyi inches

Bust

Waist

Neck

Back

14

Neck Height and Length

inclies

— &/i inches 8>4 — 6^ inches — 13j/ inches

to Waist.. /j^l

5^

Shoulder

of

inches

10'4

Shoulder Height Baci<

inches

13

-

8J/2

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. It

is

necessary after the regular shoulder heights are taken to allow an extra jj inch on front shoulder, ^-^ inch on back shoulder.

Follow same instructions as given

Length of

At waist

On

coat, S2 inches.

from

line

bust line from

Square poitU

22.

1')

.^

L

22

is is

y'j

line

Draw back

inch.

from 4

from 18

from

through

.-\.

L

to

13,

4.

to 6

is

from 22 through 6

hi]j line

line

2 inches.

which locates point

straight line

At front on

to

to

For back part on waist

Draw

and Second Lessons.

in First

to

M

1

is

to

inch. 13.

inch.

1

This completes

Draw

l>ack.

front line

from

11

O— M

through

to full

length.

For front part on hip from 4

Draw

straight line

is

from 22 through

Allow \y2 inches from box

To

to 7

line, as

1

inch.

7 to

shown

10.

at

Connect 10 with

16,

bottom.

place dart at shoulder, measure from (j on bust line, i-V^ inches over, from this point 1>4 inches to W,

At shoulder from 9 12,

to 8

is

2 inches

which gives us point

3.

;

8 to 14

is

5 to 3.

In cutting out the dart place dart together at shoulder, points 8

Square over shoulder, This coat

is

raise shoulder yi

cut without a collar or lap,

These 3 inches add on point

3 inches taken out.

Reshape armscye from

inch to point 9

—8— 14

down

14.

to 3.

^

'


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

2^

51


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

52

TWO-PIECE COAT. Diagram 24

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

15^

inches

Shoulder Heights

Neck

14

inches

Neck Height and

inches

Length of Shoulder

Length Front of Waist

TYi,

— 17>4

8J^ inches 14

inches

— 7y2 Back 8^4 — 6 Waist... 7^4 — 9^^

to

inches

inches

15'/2

inches

S^

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box, only as semi-fitting coat.

BACK. 1.

E

K

to J at waist line is I inch, J to down to 14 full length of

square to 15 2.

is

XYi inches; 14 to 16

Draft back from 22 through distance on armscye S H inch from

W

L

is

5 inches;

43—J ;

5 inches

garment

now

B

;

and K to L 1 inch 23 is one-half of K and L; from F to 43 is one-half inch at hip line 14

to

;

;

22

is

^

inch.

W— K

to A and 15 through to T T is about half the is draft part of your front from 16 through ;

V V

^

;

to T.

FRONT. 1.

Measure underarm 83/2 inches from H to 1 and length front waist 17J/2 inches from U 8 and draw from 8 to L take out on line H between 1 and 2, Ya, inch and make dart ;

to to

front dart place directly under bust, taking out about 3 about 4 inches below waist line 1 inch from 5 and 6, making point 4 about 3>-j inches below bust line and point 7 about 7 inches below waist line. ;

2.

D

Q

is J^ inch; now draw front line of jacket from 9 through to 12; place button stand, line 11, 2-3-4 inches back from front line 12 and double breasted front line 13 20, 3 inches forward and add from 20 to 19 and 18 to 17 1 inch for turning in.

10 to 9 to

U

is

1^

inches;

and down

to

Q

COLLAR. Bring your shawl collar down to about 2 inches above waist line front draw a straight line up from 20, going in at X about 1 inch, and up to 34 from X, 2V\ inches, which is neck length back O A; square points 34 to 35, I34 inches and to 32, 3 inches; add for spring of collar back, from 32 to 33, Ya inch. ;

Draft under collar from 35 through 37 to 38 draft shawl effect from 20 to ii as shown to get spring of collar draw a line 30 36 and make 27 and 31, 1^ inches from 30 and draft curve to 36 break line 34 20 under and trace shawl 20 38 y? to get front shawl ;

20-39—37.

;

;


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

53

B 2S 17

18

Diagram 24


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

54

LOOSE BOX COAT. Diagram 25

MEASURES. inches -3 inches 41 inches 1?/j inches inches 15 173<2 inches

liust

L

-^i"^

Waist Hip Across Chest -

Neck Length Front Waist

Syj inches

iiderarni

Across Back 10 Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height IJack Syi Neck Height and to Waist.— 7^4 Length of Shoulder

inches inches inches 153^2 inches 5% inches

14

—8 — 6j4 —

7^—

INSTRUCTIONS. It is necessary after the regular shoulder heiglits are taken to allow an extra Ij inch on front shoulder; ^s ine-h on back shoulder. From .\ to C is />'_> inches, neck height in hack. Draw a line to 15, which is 52 inches.

A

ISyi inches, length of waist in Ijack. 19 to L is 4 inches, the first hip L to F is 4 inches, second hip. 15. Square over on points C 19, L F and 15 on line From C to D is >4 of bust measure plus 1^ inches, in this case 20>^ inches. to G is 34 of l>ust, in this case 5^^ inches. is 3^ inch allowed for breathing. D to of bust plus l',2 inches, in this case 4 1-16 inches. U to Tis

.•\

to 19

is

;

A

D

Q

%

C

to 20 is 234 inches. This change of yk inch more or less is according to larger or smaller sizes. C to 1 is 7 inches, yi of back measure. Square points D and 5 up and down on line C D. Square up points (i I and 20 on line C I). C to P is 63/4 inches, the second shoulder height back. 20 to O is 8>2 inches, the first shoulder height hack. Square over A and P on line A 15. In squaring over 1^ point R is found cmssing R to S is >^ inch. Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder from O to S, which is .1^4 inches. inches, second shoulder height front. .\\. front, from 5 to 39 is 834 Square point 39. G to X is IO34 inches, the first shoulder heiglit front.

Square

Draw

X

line

I.

to 29, 3 inches for this style coat only. 4, which is 5-Ki inches.

shoulder from 29 to

Square down X to 1, 2 inches. S(|uare over point 1 to 27. of chest measure. Draw neck curve from 29 through 27 to 24. From Z to 2 is 7->4 inches, Draw armscye from .S 28 5 2 to 4. Draw front line from 24 through Q J\I to 40. This com])letes the box. At back waist line measure from 19 to 17. '2 inch. Draw straight line from .A. through 17, K, 16 to B full length. inches to 28. .\t the back shoulder from S measure 43^ At waist line in back measure from 17 to 8, 6/2 inches. .\t second hip measure from 16 to 18, 7 inches. Draw straight line from 7 down through 18 to 13 and up from 7 slightly shaped tlirougli 8 to This completes the back part. 28. from 8 to 9, 2 inches. I<"or front part at waist line measure Draw a straight line down from 9 to 10 and up from 9 to 28. To place dart in coat at shoulder measure from O on the bust line 3!4 inches o\er, and from this point down measure 1 inch to \\ from 33 to 14 is 3 inches taken out. The.se 3 inches .\t top shoulder from 32 to 33 is 2>^ inches, are added on the remaining shoulder from_14 to 3. To place the dart under the arm. measure from 5 to 6. 1 inch, and 6 to 41. 10 inches. Take the center of 6 and 41 and shape out ;4 inch each side as shown in diagram. To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow diagram 19, page 42.

— ——

.

how much spring the collar requires, lay the liack part of coat shoulder to shoulder on the front part, which is shown in diagram indicated by ditto marks. Square over from the back line of coat A C. From ])oint C to 36 is 634 inches plus '^ inch, which is the amount required for spring. Place the spring in the collar by drawing a line through the center of collar at the top of shoulder In order to find out

.Allow

from point 30 to 12. from 12 to 22, ^y^ inches, and from 12

to

11. ?i^2

inches,

which

gi\-es

us the

amount of

spring required. Trace out the front part of collar from 30 to 22 to 37 to 30. Trace the back part of collar from 30 to 11, 36. 21. 34 to ,iO. which gives us the two parts of collar, as shown in the lower diagram of coat.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

2

5

55


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

56

ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. Diagram 26

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

L'nderarm

Waist

23

inches

Across Rack

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

15>2 inches

Xeck

13

inches

Length Liack

— 17>^

inches

Shoulder

Length Front of Waist

7}i

SjA inches 14

Shoulder Heights to

F)aci<

Waist

— 7X' 8^ — 6 7]4 — 15^

Oyi

inches inches

inches inches

5^4 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Draft the same as tight fitting jacket to first hip. except back, which is straight down lo The l)ack of this garment is always open full length of garment. 58 inches, to point 49. ^nd has a plait as shown.

2.

Cut jacket through between waist and hip as shown 15

3.

Skirt

Draw

13,

or any other shape desired.

continuation of box as shown. 35 to 41 is hip to 41 is same measure as 15 54. From 36 to .\t fullest part of hip take out a dart in V shape 2 35 is waist curve same as 15 to 13. inches 31 32, and make same about 4)'! inches deep, which seam is covered with a pocket, as diagram shows. :

measure

first

and second hip

less back, distance

lines, a

54^V.

36

4.

35 to 47 is a straight line coming slightly out at bottom. The sweep at bottom is Measure 42?4 inches from 49 to 46: 2j4 times bust measure, making same 4234 inches. 47 to 50, wl'.irb is the point given by meisure. Connect 36 witn 50 and add plait as shown 36 34 and .50—48. 36 to 50 is the length 15 to 46, and after obtaining this point shape sweep from 50 to 47, as diagram shows.

From

5.

Collar

:

Turn down

collar.

which follows as diagram.

The

rules are

same

as notch collars, with the exception of shajie,


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 26

57


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN LOOSE COAT RAGLAN SLEEVE

58

.

Diagram 27

MEASURES. 38 25

Bust

Waist Hips Across Chest

inches inches 41 inches 15^ inches 15 inches 171/2 inches

-

Neck Length Front of Waist

7]/^

8^

Underarm Across Back Shoulder Height Front IQShoulder Height Back S''^Neck Height and to Waist. ...714 Length of Shoulder

inches inches 8 inches 6J4 inches 15>4 inches 5^ inches

14

INSTRUCTIONS. coat follow same instructions as given in the loose coat. For raglan, the back part. Draw a line from C) to the side of armhole. Place the square on that line, and let the right angle rest on S, which produces point 11. 11 to 21 is 1 inch. Shape the top of shoulder from U, 21 to T. The forepart, to 7, is 1 inch. 7 to 5 is j-x inch. Draw line from 5 to 18, place the square to that line and let the right angle rest on U, which produces point 24. 24 to 23 is 1J4 inches. 18 to 8 is ^/^ inch. Shape the shoulder from 8, li to 5. From' I to T is inches, same distance as the back sleeve, D to I. Place a notch at T and a notch at 5. .Measure the distance on the straight line from T to t), I<"or

H

2%

which is 8 inches. Measure the distance from 8 to 5 on the straight line, which is 10;/> inches. Measure the distance from 18 to .^. in this case 5)4 inches, the length of shoulder. This completes the raglan.

PLAIN SLEEVE

AND RAGLAN

Diagram 28

MEASURES. Bust Half of Back

.'....i8

inches

7 inches

Length Length

to

Flbow

to

Wrist

19^^ inches :

2934 inches

•.

INSTRUCTIONS.

M

A

Draw

to is 7 inches, y^ of back measure. a line .A B. .\ to L is 1914 inches, length to elbow. 8 to B is 29yj inches, the length to wrist. Square over points M, L and B. to S is 9)4 inches, 34 of Inist measure. Square S down, which gives us point H. to is J4 of bust measure less 1 inch, in this case 4-?4 inches. Square over to point Q. N is one-half the distance between .S and .M. to I is 1 inch. Square over point I to C. to P is J4 inch for top sleeve. T to is 1 inch. R to is 3^ of bust measure plus 34 inch, in this case 5'4 inches. to is 1 inch. is the center of and Jj. Draw line from to J is 3^ inch. through J over. For undersleeve P to J is 3)4 inches, and G to E is 6 inches. .At top of sleeve to is 2)4 inches. Shape top of sleeve from I, O, 1^, R, G, E, L lo I. Shape the undersleeve from Q, R, E, G, \". I', C to O. This completes the plain coat sleeve.

M

,

M

D

D

M y

R

U

H K

H

K

G

G

O

N

For raglan sleeve

Y

to

W

is

the

same distance

as the top shoulder of coat

from

5

to

18

— 10)4

inches.

A

^

inch less than the distance from T to () at the liack ]«irt of raglan. This '<( inch eased over the shoulder in back. Sweep at point backward, pivoting at point Y. Sweep from point A forward, pivoting at point I. Sweep from jioint 8 backward and forward, ]iivoting to 8 is 5)4 inches, length of shoulder. at point O. This marks two cross lines, one through X and F. X to 9 is ]'l inch. F In 10 is '4 inch. This is the 34 inch taken ofl' from IS lo 8 at top shoulder front. Shape the top of sleeve from O to 10 and O to 9. 1

to

is

is

Draw

W

Y

X

a straight line from to and from I to F. is 1 inch, and shape the sleeve from through 2 to X. 4 to 3 is )4 inch, and shape the sleeve from T through 3 to F. From 6 to 7 is 1 inch, from 5 to 6 is )4 inch. Dotted line shows where the sleeve is cut through with a seam on top, as .shown in diagram. 1

to 2

Y


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 27

Diagram 28

59


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

6o

HOW TO PLACE DART IN FRONT OF RAGLAN Diagram 29

It is

4 to

necessary in all loose coats to place a dart from the shoulder to the bust line, in order to In this case cut out the entire front of raglan, give the garment proper fit over the bust. Measure over from the center front lay another piece of paper under for a new front. line at point 3 on the bust line, 3^/4 inches to 4. 5 is

From

IJ^ inches below the bust line.

point 5 square a line line

To

open up to

down

to the

bottom of the

coat, as the dotted line

shows.

Split this

.^.

place dart, at shoulder measure from the top of neck over to 1, 2 inches. Connect 1 with Pivot on point 5, open the shoulder from 1 to 2, 5, and cut through on this dotted line. 2 inches for dart which swings the bottom of coat from 8 to 7 and 9 to 10. Mark out the entire coat from A to neck, 1. 2, to 6.

Pivot at point 6, swing point 10 back to 9 and 7 to placing the dart at shoulder.

Reshape the bottom, which gives us a drop

at the

8,

which gives us the same fullness before

front part of coat, as the diagram shows.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 29

61


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

62

HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A BLOCK PATTERN.

LOOSE COAT.

Diagram 30

IXSTRUCTIONS. Draw

line

41 to 39

is

from il 1

2

to 2.

inch.

Shape from 2 through 39

Back

T 38

is is

part.

the deepest point from armscye.

is

Draw

line

to

from

"hi.

O

to T.

the deepest part of armscye in Ijack.

about the center of O. T.

Square over 38

to

yj

—

1

inch.

Shape as shown. For double breasted

collar

and

lapel,

follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 30

63


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

64

HOW

TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram

Lay pattern together

as diagram shows.

To

place a seam under the arm, measure .Square 5 to 6, 11 inches.

At bottom, from This

may

2 to 8

may

is

down from

the front neck, 3 to

16^2 inclies, and draw line from 6 to 7 to

5,

8 inches.

8.

be cut in a one piece coat or with a seam as desired.

At armhole, from 6 It

31

to 7 is 4 inches.

be cut higher or lower

if

desired.

Shape armhole as shown. For double breasted given in diagram 19, page 42.

collar

and

lapel

follow

same instructions

as


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

31

65


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

66

DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DEEP ARMHOLE. Diagram 32

Draw

line

A

to

B

;

A

sleeve; 7 to 9

to 7

is 3-34

underarm of coat; 9

Draw

a straight line

Shape sleeve

from

as shown.

5^ of bust measure, 4J4

is

inches, to 2

A

is

to 11,

1

inches

inch less on each inch

1^

inches; 8 to

from

11 to C,

1

is

from

;

7 to

B

is

we go down

full

length

from 6

to 7 at

18>2 inches, distance

1^4 inches.

A

to 5,

and from C

to 4

is

5 inches.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

D®-

67

4)B Diagram 32


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

68

COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT. Diagram 33

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

IS^^ inches

Shoulder Height Back

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height and

inches

Length of

7% — 17j^

Length Front of Waist

85^ 14

9>'^^ 6

to Waist.. -.7>4

Shoulder

nches nches

Jj/j

nches

— 8>4

nches

ISyi

nches

5)4

nches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow diagram 19, page 42 for a semi-fitting coat. This coat is cut with an underarm gore and body. From 28 to 62 is 1 inch. 62 to 50 and 54 is l-j4 inches. Square up at 62 17^^ inches to 67, length of underarm gore. Square over from 67 to 68 and 66, 1 inch. Connect 68, 50, 66 and 54. Connect 50 with 64 and 54 with 64, and this completes the undregore of body. Cutting a collarless coat you always allow an extension from the natural neck line. we allow lyi inches raise for the back and front of neck.

Back neck,

Neck

O

A

to 53, point, 32 to 56.

Raise

-)4

Draw

line

In this case

to 52.

inch of the back shoulder from

from 50 through

H

R

to

51, for side

back gore.

to 61, 6 inches.

62 to 63 is 33/2 inches. From 60 draw a line through 63 to 60, which is \7}.'2 inches, length of undergore sleeve. Square on line 60 50 to 58, 6 inches. 60 to 59 is 1>^ inches. Now shape sleeve 52 through T, 51. 61, 58, 59 through 63 to the side gore from 50 through 6 14 to the length of coat over to 44 up through 15 L and T. This completes the side gores as diagram shows.

THE FRONT SIDE GORE AND SLEEVE. Draw Draw

a line a line

from 54 through 1 to 65, 6^ from 54 through 63 to 98.

inches.

Square over on 98 to 47 4 inches. 47 to 48 is lyi inches. This lyj inches we lost between 22 and 20 on front shoulder. From 98 to 46 is I3/2 inches.

Draw

line from 46 to 54. Reshape sleeve from 46 slightly curve through 63 to 54. Shape sleeve and body from 20 through 3—^0 65 down to 48 over to 46 front from 54 30 13 the length of coat over to 12 up tlirough 16 8 and This completes the sleeve and front side gore. To make garment double breasted. Go out from the front line 2j/2 inches and the same distance back for buttons. At neck, 55- ^27, take out 1 inch and shape as diagram shows. This completes the diagram.

— —

— —W

side of body, 20.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

66

Diagram

67

3)

68

C9


3

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

70

SHAWL COLLAR CUT WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER. SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram 34

INSTRUCTIONS. At

neck,

from 16 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw line from 26 through 23 Shape collar from 12 through break line to 7.

to

13.

From

l.-i

12

to

is

1^4

inches.

front shoulder,

.\t

from

inch allowed for spring.

5 to 3 is V4

Draw

line

from 12

— —20— 13

to 4.

—— — —

Trace out front part of collar

To

12

13

This l''or

l'"or

j/\

inch

we

14

take out

13

lose

add on

2f>

13,

and give the shape of

.Shape dart

inch.

44

7 to 4.

trace out lapel, turn paj)er under on line

Between

.\t

3

-I

lapel at 19 to 17.

down

lapel

This completes lapel and front part of

stand band of collar, from 24 to 2?

back shoulder, from 2 to collar

Shape back

on

l)ack

collar

1

is '4

i'l"-"!!

shoulder, 12 to

from

2.5—2-1

1''4

is

10 to 11

making same length

22— 10— l^S— 20— 13— 12, 1

11,

as

shown

inches.

raise for spring.

iS,

collar.

Square over on

2y2 inches, the neck measure of back

side.

5 inches to 9.

coat. back part of collar, 13 to 24 is break line. 26 24, any desired length for collar, in case 15 inches to Place the neck curve, 20 22, as shown in dotted line. dotted line.

Shape

on opposite

is

''4

inch raise for spring.

as front shoulder.

as shown.

12 to 4.

in


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 34


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

72

SET ON COLLAR

AND

LAPEL.

SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN.

Diagram 35

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw .\t

from 26 to 16. Break line. Draw

front shoulder 7 to 8

Draw

16 to 23

line

line

from 20

is

line

—23—7

^

to 3,

1

—7—23 —20 down

is

I34 inches.

Draw

line

from 23

coat,

coat 21

17, as

shown

24

21

2

line

in

dotted

back shoulder, from 10 to 9 17 to 11, to

1

is

j^i

making same

12

9

line.

line

24

For stand band,

34 inch allowed for spring. length as front shoulder, 17 to 4. is

inch spring.

— — — — — — —23— 26— 16 and cut away on on

Shape back collar from 25

to 26.

to 26.

23^ inches, neck measure of back. Square on lireak as dotted line shows, any desired length, in this case 21 inches. is

Place the neck curve of the back part of from 24 to 25 is 1J4 inches. At Draw line on back shoulder from 11 to 12 is 3 inches taken out. 3

For front part of

inch; 22 to 20

inch allowed for spring. 4 to 5 is 3 inches taken out for close-fitting collar over arm.

to 4.

Shape front collar from 26 to 5 For back part of collar 22 to 24

—26 over

is

20 to 26.

17

20, as

set

lapel

shown. on same

line of coat,

26 to 20.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

35


9

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

74

TWO

KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN.

PIECE

Diagram 36

INSTRIXTIONS. To

place the

10 to 11

is

from .\t

seam of coat under the arm, take

off tlie front

1

to 2.

inch.

1

Draw straight line from to 11. The distance 2 inches. E 1 2 and 11 10 add on the underarm of back coat, D

1

we take

— — N —M.

front measure from 3 to 4, 20 inches, square over to 9, 26^ inches, square 6 to 3 is 2'^ inches. to 7 7 '4 inches square over 7 to 8. 2'i> inches.

Draw

from

line

11

Ct

— 9 —8

\()

— — 1.^

14.

oft'

the

up on

line

front

-I

This completes the front.

BACK PART. I'Vom

Draw

X

to

P

<)\er

H

line

19 inches.

is

to

from

I

Square over

1)4 inches.

M—L —J —

I

K

to

—B—A.

L

is

to J

25^4 inches.

P)4 inches.

C

to

Square up

B

is

^

J to

H

inch raise.

This completes the back part.

8 inches.

Square


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 36

75


2

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

76

LOOSE FRONT JACKET

3-8

INCH SEAM ALLOWED.

Diagram 37

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

L'nderarni

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

15^

inches

Shoulder Heights Back

15

inches

Xeck Height

— 17

inches

Length of

Across Chest

.'

Neck Length Front of Waist

7

83^ inches 14

inches

— 7^ 8J4 — 6 714 — 15^

inches

9}^

of Waist

inches inches

5%

Shoulder

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Draw C D

line

-*i£i¥-'-^

A — B. A

is bust line; C to height back E is waist

From E 2.

C

is

7^

inches, length in back;

C

to

P

inches, second shouldei

is

and 16 inches from A. B are 4 inches apart, which are

;

line,

first and second hip points. Square to F and F to points A, P, C, E, F, on line A B. of bust measure jilus 3 inches, which is allowed for seams. to is 22 inches, or to is 5 inches, Y^ oi Yz bust measure, 20 inches, and square up. is 4 inches, Y& G to of Y2 t)ust measure plus \Y2 inches and square up and down. C to I is inches is inches, and square up. across back, and square up. C to Y to is 8f^ inches, first shoulder height back. R to S is 1 inch. to 3 is inches, and intersect point to 1 is 2Y inches; square line 1 to get neck line is 9^/;^ inches; with line. G to front. Z to 2 is 7-]/\ inches (chest measure plus seam.j

^

D G

D

H

7^

Y

2^

O

H

7^

X

X

Draft neck curve back A O and shoulder back O S. Shoulder front, line X to line 3 same length as back shoulder, O S. Draft armscye, starting from S through

is

the

H—

to line 3. 3.

K

A

E

1%

for back line. is to J is 1J4 inches, and connect J with J to inch L to 4 is 3J4 inches 4 to 5 is 1 inch 5 to 6 is 2>Ya inches and The proportions for gores as just given are the same as escribed in 1

;

;

;

;

1

with the exception that Fine center of K L, 4

F

V

^

of an inch

— 6— 5,

7,

inches;

6 to 7 is diagram

K 1^ 8,

to

L

is

inches.

page

8,

allowed for seams. and square down. is

10 and 15 are 34 inch from center line; 11 and 12 are Y?, inch from 1J4 inches. center line; 14 is 3,^ inch and 13 is 34 inch from center line. Draft gores and back through just given points as diagram shows. Afeasure hip the same as The front collar and described in previous lessons, allowing 3 inches more for seams.

4.

to

lapel,

is

including the dart, are the same as described in diagram

8.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram)?

77


;

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

78

NINETEEN-GORE CORSET JACKET. Diagram 38

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

inches

inches inches

Length of Shoulder

41

Across Chest

15jX inches

Neck

15

inches

7^ — 17>^

14

— 8)4 — Shoulder Height Back Syi Waist.— 7>4 — 15^^ Neck Height and

Hip

Length Front of Waist

Syi inches

10'4

Shoulder Height P>ont

63/4

to

5->4

inches inches

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. box, shoulder lieights, collar and front are exactly the same as previous jacket lessons, with the exception of divisions of waist and hip.

1.

The

2.

Waist:

A

37 without seams in back. E to J is J4 inch and is straight up and down to to 42 is yi inch; L is yi inch; L to 41 is l'/4 inches; 41 to inch: to is to Vs J is 1J4 inches; 42 to 22 is yi inch; 22 to T is 1)4 inches; T to 30 is V4 inch; 30 to 40 is lyi inches; 4 to 5 is 1 !4 inches; 5 to 6 is lj4 inches; 6 to 7 is 1 inch; 7 to 8 is ly4 is lj4 inches inches 8 to 9 is Kj inch 9 to 34 is 1 J4 inches 34 to 33 is ^^ inch 33 to Increase and decrease width of gores for larger or smaller sizes. to LT is ->4 inch.

K

W 3.

;

K—

W

:

;

;

L 41^M 42 22; T 30; A 5 into half and draw straight lines down and up and down between 4 and 5. From these guide lines just obtained, measure on fullness over hip on each ^ore. Allow for this fullness J4 inch on each side of guide line, as is

Divide

;

;

readily seen in diagram. 4.

M

M

K

The seams on shoulders

mt^fx

are 2 inches apart and are cut through by gores y^ inch is to be 38 show. 19, 20 15, 16 taken out in darts on hip line in front, as 14 17, 32 Now measure hip, applying the same rule as in previous lessons. Length of this jacket to suit customer.

;


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

38

7Q


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

80

ETON JACKET. Diagram 39

MEASURES. .38

inches

Underarm

.25

inches

.\cross

..41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

15>4 inches

Shoulder Heights Back

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height

— 17^

inches

Length of Shoulder

Bust

-

Waist Hips

.

Length Front of Waist

7^4

8>2 inches

Back

14

of ^^'aist

inches

— 8j4 — 6 7}i — 15>4

inches

Si/i

inches

9>4

/'/z

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given 2.

in

diagram

O—

80. except the front.

18 front line D add 1 inch to 27, and draft line as shown through just given The dart 8 to 9 is 2j/ inches wide and 3 inches below bust points to give vest effect. line. The bottom of Eton may be made to any desired shape.

From

This Eton shows a heavy braid trimming around the edges.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

DlAGI^M 39

8!


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

82

RUSSIAN BLOUSE. Diagram 40

MEASURES. Bust

-58

Waist

2:i

Hip

41

Across Chest

15/^ 15

Neck Length Front Waist

7]/^

1/J^

inches inches inches inches inches inches

.

Under Arm 8>^ 14 Across Back 9j^ Shoulder Height Front 7>^ 8^ 6 Shoulder Height, Back Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 15>4 Length of Shoulder 5^

— — —

inches inches inches inches inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in First and to J is l>j inches. At waist line 7 is 9>4 inches. to J In this case we need 634 inches, which is ]A, of

Second Lessons.

E

l':\ inches, the waist measure in back. inches are taken out between the two gores, L, K, lj4 inches, 6, 7,

The other 3j4

K is 3^4 K L is l>i

J

2-

inches.

inches. inches.

and 6, 7, is 2 incnes. 614 inches, y^, of waist measure in back. 6 is L and J, K At back shoulder, S to 29 is AVz inches. 28 to 30 is 8^2 inches, length of underarm measure.

L

6

3 inches

is

waist line from L to 30. Shape back gores as diagram shows. From the box line at the first hip in front measure from 78 to 18, 3 inches. Draw front line from 27 to 18 27 to D is 7 inches, the highest point of chest.

Draw new

;

M

17 inches, length waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. To place dart measure from D on front bust line over 4 inches, and from this point measure down to W, 3 inches. to 9 is 6>^ inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. inches. at the top of dart measure down to 69, From point

27 to

is

M

W

From tv measure down

to 70, lYi inches.

Shape dart at bottom of blouse as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted measure from 18 to 71, Yi inch. 71 to 26 is 6 inches. From box line to 26 is V/z inches. Shape the front from 71 to 26. To obtain shawl collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck, 21 Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24.

to

22s,

1

inch.

32 to 21 is 2j4 inches, Y^ inch more than back neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24, 26. 1^4 inches to 2,^, standing band, and over to 35. 3.'i to 36 is 34 inch for spring. Shape the back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar. To trace lapel, break on line 26, 24. turn the paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on opposite side.

TO MAKE SKIRT.

Draw

line

from 6

Square up on

to 8,

which

line 6. 8 to 9,

is

measure, 9^/2 inches plus K' 'nch. which is 10. inches, which Y% of bust measure, 4y4 inches plus 1J4

!4 of luist

which

is

is

6J4 inches.

and shape waist from 9 through 7 to 6. 7 and 9, 12^' inches, J4 of waist measure. What remains over is eased in at the waist line. Measure down from waist line to dotted line 4 inches to 14, 15. Measure 14, 15 20t inches, ;4 of hip measure. of an inch from 14 to 11. Come out from front line on hip 6 to 17 is 18 inches at front and 9 to 12 at back is 8 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. Draw front line from 6 to 11 to 13. To make inverted pleat measure from 9 to 10, 2 inches at the top of waist line. 8 to 7

is

3 inches,

Measure from

6,

%

At the bottom 12 to 16, 4 inches. To form inverted pleat take up on

line 9. 12,

and meet center back

line,

10,

16.

_


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 40

83


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

84

TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. Diagram

41

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

9j/2

Across Chest

155^ inches

Shoulder Heights Back

8J4

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height of Waist

— 17

inches

Length of Shoulder

7

Length Front of Waist

83^ inches 14

inches

lYz inches

—6 7^4 — 15>^

inches inches

5^4 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. For making jacket use exactly the same rules and descriptions used in tight fitting jacket. Diagram in this instance shows a separate lapel, and is made exactly like the tight fitting Also notice that jacket is jacket, with the exception of the shape of collar and lapel. cut through from back gore, point L to front of garment point 40, to which separate skirt is

fastened.

Square points ii 32 from 23. li is 34 of bust measure plus 1 inch, 4 inches all around waist, making hip from Z}> through 31 to 2)1, which is 3<2

Skirts

2>2

10 to 19 all

is

3-2

inch;

draw

line

down through

around from waist Hne.

pletes diagram.

to 2>1> is 34 of bust measure, 9^^ inches; 23 to 5j4 inches. From ZZ to 10 and from 32 to 13 is measure. 23 to 31 is 3 inches. Draft waist line K. of waist measure, less back. J

19 from ii\ make skirt 8 inches deep and 8 inches .^dd plaits on back to correspond with jacket, which com-


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTEK FOR WOMEN.

19(3>

Diagram

41

85


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

86

LOOSE FRONT JACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST. Diagram

42.

MEASURES. —-

38

inches

Underarm

2i

inches

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

ISYi inches

Shoulder Heights Back

Neck

15

Bust

Waist

-

-

•-

Length Front of Waist

7^ — 17^

8>4 inches

inches

Length Back

inches

Length

of

14

'.

to

Waist

Shoulder

9^^

7y2 inches

8^ — 6 7^ — ISj/^ 5^ 1

inches

inches inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Follow tight titting jacket for back, side gores, back gores, and front, then shape gores and back to any desired length as diagiam shows.

Using the center front of the tight fitting jacket, shape vest as diagram shows, about 2 The vest in this diagram is the shaded portion of drawing. inches below waist line. 2.

Measure for shawl collar 1 inch from deepest point at neck line 23. and draw straight Now draft line from neck curve line from bottom of front point .^3 through point 40. front line X to 21 upward and make this distance the same length as neck curve back A C), giving point 21. Placing square on line 53 2Z, draw a line from 21 through

Draft shawl, starting at point S2> to top of collar (neck back) and draft under collar from point 25, touching shawl as diagram shows. point 24 to 25.

line 24 53 by turning paper under and trace shawl toward front as diagram shows. Place separate piece of paper under the under collar and trace out according to diagram. The vest must be traced out the same way by laying paper under front.

Break


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 25

24

Diagram 42

87


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

88

LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST. Diagram 43

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

15>4 inches

Neck

15

Length Front of Waist

7^ — 17^^

Syi inches 14

Shoulder Heights Back-

inches

Neck Height of Waist

inches

Length of Shoulder

— 8^4 — 6 7% — 15>4 Dyi

7l'j

5^

inches inclics

inches inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Use Lesson No.

9

Shoulder heights and armscye are same as tight

3,

From

1

for box.

is 2 inches, and shape as shown. waist measure, 6y4 mclies. E is held in with strap. Measure from 5 to 9, 6^4 inches, of waist, distance from 9 dart 9 8 2^4 inches, and shape dart as shown.

4

to J J to

5 to is

4

34

^

4.

fitting vest.

Collar

is

the

same

as described in

diagram

4L

— 18

must be taken out

i;


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 25,

•L

89

24 21

•)A •)P

Diagram 4)


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

90

TIGHT FITTING VEST. Diagram 44

MEASURES. 3S

inches

Underarm

25

inches

Across Back

41

inches

Shoulder Heights,

15'

inches

15 1/3/2

Bust

Waist

-

-

-

Hips Across Chest

-

Neck Length Front of Waist....

7>^

8J/2

inches

14

..

inches

inches

— 7^4 Shoulder Height Back., 6 — 834 Neck Height and Waist.. 734 — 1534

inches

inches

Length

5^

inches

Front

93^

inches inches

to

of

Shoulder

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Use Lesson No.

A

1

for box.

7 inches, length in back; P to C is SJ4 inches, second shoulder height back; square is Gyi inches, 34 width of back. line S is about 1 inch from F P to is C to R; to is 234 inches, which distance changes; 234 inches, this distance to is 8 inches, first shoulder changes 34 inch more or less for respective sizes

C

to

A

is

and P on

A

A—

R

;

Y

N

;

Y

O

height back.

H

X

is 9 inches, first shoulder height to 3 is 7 inches, second shoulder height front G to front I is 2 inches from X, this varies according to measure, allowing 34 inch more for E to J is 1 inch connect J with A, and larger sizes and 34 inch less for smaller sizes. shape slightly as shown. ;

;

;

Draft

line

Draft

line

A— O. X 27.

.\rmscye for vest line

Connect

is

always

1

with

K

is

334 inches

in

back as shown.

;

K

to

L

inch larger

is

1

Front and darts are same as tight

Allow for button stand

%

3 to line

S.

shows the jacket and the heavy

gore

J to

O

all

line all

inch

;

L

X

is

same distance

as

O — S.

around than the regular jacket. around it the vest armscye.

to 4

is

2->^

inches

:

4 to

5 is

2 inches

The dotted

;

now

draft

fitting jacket.

inch.

Draft bottom to any shape desired.

From

27 on neck diagram shows a standing collar.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 44

91


:

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

92

EMPIRE JACKET. Diagram

45

MEASURES. liust

-58

-

25 41

Waist

Hip Across Chest

15/

-

Neck

15

7^—17/

Length Front of Waist

inches inches inches inches inches inches

Syi Underarm 14 Across Back 9>4— 7/2 Shoulder Height Front 6 Shoulder Height Back 8}i Neck Height and to Waist....7>^ IS/ Length of Shoulder Sji

— —

inches inches inches inches inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons

Follow same

Our

natural waist line

is

V.

Measure from the natural waist

L

to J is is to

K

J

K

to

L

L

to

6

G to 7

is

up 2

inclics to E.

5 inches.

is is

line

/ inch. 3/ inches. ^ of an inch. 1

inch.

—K,

Square down where line crosses on first hip 5. inch to 15. Where line crosses on second hip, measure J-4 of an inch to 38 and 1 inch to 39. to [J is 2 inches. On bust line, Shape as shown. to T is 3 inches and T to S is 2-}i inches. At back shoulder, 28 to 30 is 6/ inches underarm measure. Take the center of 6 and 7, which gives us point 9. Square down where line crosses first hip, measure Ya inch to 14 and }'4 inch to 13. Where line crossc-; s.'' -(-nd hip, measure J4. mch to 37 and 1/ inches to 29, and shape a^ shown. of hip measure. Measure hip from 8 to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 20/ inches, 17. 33 to 18 is 1 inch allowed. This 1 inch is taken out between the dart on hip line, 16

Take the center of L measure

/

which gives us point

/

inch to 10 and

Y

O

,

/

Measure back neck,

A—O, 2/

inches.

Place these 2/ inches oii point 32 at front neck and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. through 18 to length of coat. front line from 27 to D is 7 i inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to 4 is 16 inches, length front of waist. Draw waist line from 30 to 4. T, At front shoulder, ,32 to jZ2 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder, on front bust line measure 3/ inches to W. From At waist linefrom the center front line measure 4 inches to 50.

O

Draw

O

Q

Take out, between 50 and At hip line, from 18 to l7, 17 to 16

is

1

51, is

H

of an inch.

4/

inches.

inch.

At shoulder, from 22 us point

to 20, 2 inches are

taken out; these 2 inches

we add on

point

3,

which gives

19.

Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted, measure from front line, O 18, 2/ inches, to 26, and for Mark buttons as dia18. buttons measure the same distance back from front line, gram shows. Cut garment bias. In order to have garment without a seam from the waist line down, lay the front part of garment together at point 50 to 51 and cut in one, as shown in the illustration. inch. To obtain collar and lapel, measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23, Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 32 to 21 is 2-K inches, or }4 inch more than the neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24 26 1/ inches to 25 for .standing band, and over to 35 any desired width inch spring for collar. for collar. 35 to 36 is Shape back of collar from 25 24, 21 to 36. Shape the colar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. To trace lapel, break on line 26 24, turn paper under and trace out shape of lapel, which will be reversed on the opposite side.

1

/


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 45

9)


;

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

94

HOW TO MAKE NORFOLK JACKET FROM BLOCK PATTERN Diagram 46

INSTRUCTIONS. Use a block

pattern, cut the

To make back box Allow 2

1

pleat to the

is

draw

pleat any desired width, in this case 2 inches wide

straight line the length of coat,

which gives us points

inches,

2 to

pleat,

box

1

inch.

line 3

is

2

finished.

19.

For under pleat allow at top from 3 to 4, and 20 and 18 to 17, 1 inch. This forms the under 17 20 18 and 2 A 19, turn under and stitch together 1 3

18.

At bottom, from 19

by creasing on seam of coat.

which

when

to

— —

Draft front box pleat from the front of block pattern. 22 to 33 is 1 inch 33 to 6 is 2 inches 6 to 5 is 1 inch. At bottom, 14 to B is 1 inch; 14 to 15 is 2 inches; 15 to 16 is 1 inch. Form the front pleat the same as back pleat. ;

,

To make

— —

measure the distance from 39 to 38 37 to 34, which is the same distance from 11 9 and 12 to 10. Square over on line 9 10 to front of coat, from this point allow Shape belt as diagram shows. yi inch to 7, and IJ^ inches to 8. belt,

to

For front

collar

and

lapel, follow

same

instructions as given in diagram 19. page 42.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

95


6

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

96

NORFOLK JACKET Diagram 47

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

155^ inches

Shoulder Height Back

8>4

Neck

15

inches

Neck Height and

— ISj^

inches

— 17

inches

Length of

SH

inches

7

Length Front of Waist

Syi inches 14

9>^—

to Waist....7>4

Shoulder

inches

/^^ inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. For complete box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. back bust line from C to LI is 4 inches, LT to T is 2 inches. At waist line in back, from E to J K^ inch. Draw line from A through J to full J to K, 3 inches.

On

K

length.

to L, }i inch.

L

to 5, 2 inches. inch. 5 to 49, 49 to 7, 4 inches.

%

7 to 6, -H inch.

Take center of L K, square down where this line crosses on For second hip, measure .>4 inch to 15 for back part. gore in back, square up and down from points 5 L. For third gore in back, measure from point 48 on hip M

inch to 10.

Take center of 6 7, square up and down where on hip, measure ->^ inch to 14 and ji inch is

to 13;

28 to 53

Syi inches, length of underarm.

Draw new waist

To

this line crosses

line

from L

to 53.

draft back yoke, measure from

Shape gores as shown.

C on back

bust line

1

inch

to 55.

Fake center of second gore on bust line, measure J/ inch down Shape yoke Point 29 is ^4 inch above bust line. to 54. from 55 through U-54 T 29. Measure hip from 56 tr 13 to !<7 is yi of hip measure, 20/ 15, 47 to 48, 10 to 14 inches. From this point allow 1/ inches to 58, which is taken out between the two front darts at waist and hip line. Draw front line from O through 58 to 20.

— — ;

From 27

M

to is 17 inches, length of waist in front, waist line from 53 to M.

Draw new

W

to on front bust line measure 3j/2 inches to W, and is 2 inches. Square down points and V to full length. Measure from to 17, 3 inches, and from V to 16, 2/ inches for height of darts. At front waist line from 37 to 9 is J4 incli taken out 38 to 8 is I inch taken out, same distance on hip. Shape gores as shown. To draft front yoke, measure from 4 on bust line, inch to 3, and re-shape armscye from 3 to 2. Shape yoke from 3 througli V to 34. For double breasted collar and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. Cut yoke from shoulder to bust line as shown in own in blouse shirt waist diagram. diagram 81, page 16 0.

From

Q V

W

W

;

—W

/


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR 26

18

20 Diagram 47

W OMEN.

97


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

98

TO DRAFT NEW SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER. Diagram 48

MEASURES. Half of Back

inches

/

To Elbow

Full Length

19>4 inches

29'/2

inches

INSTRUCTIONS.

A

to

I

is 7 inches across back; A to L is 19>i inches, elbow length; A to of bust measure, less 1 inch, 3^ inches; I to is length: I to

Square over I to

^

D

R

is >it

all

the given points on line

B

M

R

29>^ inches,

is

2 inches.

is

1

full

A — B.

bust measure, 9 inches.

N is ji of bust, 43/2 inches. N to O is 1>^ inches. Q to P is >4 inch T to R is inch R to W is >^ of bust measure H to G K to J is >4 inch. center of H — B. Draw line from G to E. G to V is 3 inches. G to E is 6 inches. Square

is

to

H.

M

to

;

1

;

;

inch.

K

is

the

Shape sleeve as shown.

The

distance

we allowed on shoulder from 43

to 4

and S

to 9

is

taken off from the top of sleeve.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

99

A

Diagram 48


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR

100

SEMI-FITTING COAT.

WOM:i:N.

WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER. Diagram 49

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

Across Back

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights Front.

Across Chest

15J/2

inches

Neck

15

inches

— Shoulder Height Back 6 — Waist. .y}4 — Neck Height and

inches

Length of Shoulder

7^4— 17'/4

Length Front of Waist

Syi inches 14 .

.

.g]^

to

inches

7J/2

inches

8^

inches

15J/2

inches

534 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. inch I to K is 4 inches K to L is -K inch At waist line E to J is

^

7

is

Draw back

1

;

;

;

L

to 6

4^4 inches

is

;

6 to

inch.

line

A

through

to B.

point where crosses on square down from —K whichJ inch inch 10 and measure measure crosses on point where square down from Take center of 6— which 19

Take center of L

is

and

H

hip,

to 15.

jf-j

inch to 13.

hip.

line

this

is 5,

7,

}i inch to 14

line

this

11,

to

yi

Measure from 28

to

— 8>4

inches length of under-

arm.

Shape as shown. waist line from L to 19. At shoulder S to 38 is 354 inches; R to U is 1>4 inches. Shape back shoulder as shown. Measure hip F (o 10, 15 to 14. 13 to 33— ^4 of hip 20j4

Draw new

Square inches.

U

on

line

R—

I

to T, 2 inches.

33 to 18 allow l;4 inches. This 1>4 inches we lose in front dart between 8 9 at waist, 17— 16 at hip line. Draw front line 18 full length. ?7 to is 17 'A inches, length of waist in front. Draw new waist line from 19 to M. to 9 is 5 inches; 9 to 18 is 1J4 inches. At waist from At hip 18 to 17 is 5% inches; 17 to 16 is 1^4 inches. Lose ^2 inch from 29 to 30. to 40 is 3 inches 29 is 2 inches above bust line. On bust line Re-shape arm-scye from 28 to 30. 34 to 3 is 2>4 inches. Square point 3, 234 inches to 4. Shape shoulders and gores as shown. When the front seam of coat is more to the side of coat, it is necessary to place a dart under the lapel in order to give more Chest. At shoulder 32 to 22 is 1 inch; 22 to 20 is 1^4 inches taken out. This 1^ inches add on point

Q — M—

M

M

H

;

34 to 43.

On

bust line

Q

to

W

is

2-}4

inches.

Shape dart as shown.

double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42, with exception of making a notch collar. Shape the front line from 41 on box line through O to 42. From this line draft Vest. measure out 1 inch for lap. Same distance back for buttons.

To make garment To

Shape vest as shown. Connect vest at 20 at shoulder; on front 9

17.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WO MEN 26

DlAGR.\M 49

101



Collars

Leggins

Hoods


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

104

THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR. Diagram

50

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Draw line A C and B.

—B

8 inches,

J-j

2.

Divide Hne

A— B

3.

From D

to

K

is

Ij^ inches.

line

I

to

G and

from 4.

Now

of neck measure.

A

making points

and

into 3 parts,

H

From Hne

is

J to

J

to

points

I,

D

is

5!^ inches, and square Hnes lo

which points square up.

E and F

respectively

is

}4

inch,

and

the same.

shape collar as diagram shows.

CHILD'S

TURN DOWN COLLAR Diagram

51

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Draw 32

Now 2.

line

—30

35,

which

is

6^

2 inches; go in to 31

inches neck measure. From 33 to 32 is IVi inches; from '/> inch from 35 to 34 is 2 inches, the height of collar. ;

connect 32 with 35, 31 and 34.

From 34

to

from 26

Now

33

is

29 is 2yi inches. 27 is 54 inch.

From 29

to

28

is

IJ/jinches.

From 30

to 27

is

3 inches,

to

connect 28 with 26 31

32 with 35

— 34

with 28, shape as diagram shows.

and


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

B

i)

1)

Diagram 50

Diagram

51

@

10s


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

106

STANDING COLLAR. Diagram

52

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Draw

line 19

—24

16 inches, neck measure, and di\ide into half for point 25.

Square point

up.

23 to 21 2.

4 inches, and square to points 17

is

21 to 22 is \y2 inches: 24 to 16 25 inch. 15 is

Now

is

HX

15.

inches; 19 to 18

is

D/j inches; 17 to 20

is

i/4

inch;

^

connect points, as shown

in

diagram.

TURN DOWN COLLAR. Diagram

53

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Draw 1

line

to

line

Z

—W

^

\V to V is 1>'2 inches; of neck measure, and square lines up. 8 inches, From V to U is 2'/!' inches, and y& inch from 2>4 niches, height of collar.

1

is

W—T.

2.

Connect

3.

Take

V

with

and

1

center of line

Z—X—u.

Measure from Z tance as

U—T,

L'

U

—Z

with Z and shape, as

and measure from

Y

shown to

X

in

diagram.

54 inch,

S 3 inches; S R is 1% inches; draw and shape collar, as shown in diagram.

to

and connect with curve

line

Z

—R,

which

is

same

line

dis-


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

T(

107


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

108

HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE Diagram

TAKEN.

54

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Underarm

Waist

25

inches

.\cross

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights Front.

Across Chest

15^

inches

Neck Length Front of Waist

... .7J4

8J/2

Back

nches

14

15

inches

— 6 — •Shoulder Height Back Waist. .7>4 — Neck Height and

— 17^

inches

Length of Shoulder

to

.

.

.gyi

nches

7>2

nches

SJ^

nches

15I/2

nches

5?^

nches

INSTRUCTIONS. First

Dolman

:

Second Dolman standing

Take measure over arms, over fullest part of bust, as drawing shows, :

in

1

2.

Take measure from center of back, 2 inches above waist to elbow of lady an easy pose, 3 4.

Inside elbow to wrist:

Take measure from elbow

to wrist,

6

5.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

109


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

110

OPERA CLOAK. Diagram

55

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

Underarm

Hips

43

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Front

Across Chest

15

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Back

Neck 1st

Neck Height

15>2 inches

-

46

and 2d Dolman

— 10^

inches

Elbow

Inside

to to

— 8—

9

Waist

7

Wrist

13

inches

9

inches

7

inches

5^^ inches ISyi inches 7J/2

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw line C to A is

A— B. C

is

first

Dolman (measure overarm

7 inches, length in back: second hip measure, 4 inches.

Square

—D

line

C

— E— F— B

on

line

E

is

waist;

A

to

E

at bust). is

ISyi inches: F and

IS.

first

and

A — B.

Divide 19 23 inches first Dolman; D to (J is >!> inch allowance for breathing. inches, 5/2 of bust measure, into quarters, which is 4-54 inches, and measure off from D to G. measure oif' Ys of 19 inches plus 1>2 inches; namely. 3j,s inches. From G to From C to I is 63/2 inches across back measure. Find center of I and H, which is point 7. bust measure plus 1 inch; namely, S-}4 inches. Draw line up on 7 to T, which is '4 of and D up and down, and up on I and G. Draw lines on to C is 7 inches, length in back. E to J is 1 inch. Draw line from J through C to J. C to P is 6 inches, second shoulder height back, and square off on line Measure from to N lyi inches. m is 8 inches, second shoulder height From P to R is G'/z inches, width of back Y to back R to I is 5% inches, first shoulder height in back. is 834 inches, second shoulder height in From P to R is 6v, inches, width of back; Y to back R to I is 6 inches, first shoulder height in back. From to 3 is 7% inches, first shoulder height in front. G to X is 9 inches, second shoulder height in front. X to 1 is 2 inches. This varies according to size, more for larger, less for smaller sizes. Square point 1 to point 27 and intersect line at 3. from line is the same as Point is 1 inch above bust line and 2 inches from line I O R and ^V T 4 to line 3. Now connect point 4. 27. X to line 3 is same distance as to R. Draft neck curve front Hip measure is 21 -4 inches; half of 2l}4 is 10?^ inches; measure this from 17 to 18. Now draft front line 27 O 18 to 47. which is length of garment. This is a perfectly

C

is

H

^

H

M M ;

M—

M

;

O

;

O

;

H

W

M—

— —W—

— —

O

H

;

X—

— —

straight line.

5.

M

to 40, 58 inches, and square on Tn order to get length of garment in back, measure from line A B as diagram shows. In order to get the minimum fullness of garment at bottom multiply bust measure, 19 inches. by 2%. which gives 42^4 inches: measure this from 47 to 48. Now draft a nicely shaped line from J to 48 as shown. Sweep at bottom 48 to 27 is slightly curved. This completes garment.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

55

Ill


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

112

ULSTER WITH DOLMAN SLEEVE. DiAGUAM

S6

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Front

Waist

25

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Back

Hips

43

inches

Neck Height

Across Chest

15

inches

.\cross

Neck

15yj inches

L^ength Waist in Front

8

..-.

— 18

to

5'k;

to Waist-..

Back

Underarm

inches

Elbow

Inside

—7 8— 7 — 15J4

9

1st

46

and 2d Dohiian

Wrist

inches inches inches

13

inches

9

inches

10'/2

inches

7^4 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Use same construction

on Opera Cloak on previous page.

lines as

For back part follow diagram inches, and draw line up from

A 2.

to

The

49 first

is

58 inches,

Dolman

is

full

distance as

4

W—

K

page 115, with the exception from J toK, which to S.

This

length of garment.

For

plaits

is

2

back.

back follow our diagram.

in

H—

%

I.

1>4 inches above bust line and l'-^ inches front are same as in diagram 58, page 115. is

Dolman

called

:

is

Second Dolman

is

use this measure to get point Z, by placing your measure Z. less 6^2 inches across back measure. Find center of Z, to T, which is of bust plus 1 inch. 5*_( inches. Z to 2 is same

23 inches

D

and measure to namely 7, and go up at

58,

from

line

Front

always 2 inches alcove waist line point 19 is lOyi inches, less back 16.

103^ inches; 26 to 6

H.

line is

The shoulder height and neck as Opera Cloak lesson.

same

26.

Now

Second Dolman measure connect 6 2 T 4 and

—— —

is

to

line 3.

From 6 draw

line to 48,

diagram for

Sweep same

in

plaits

on

which

is

this line,

2y2 times 19 inches bust as on back.

measure,

same

previous lesson, Ulster No.

1,

diagram

68,

page 136.

less

bac'v.

Follow


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 56

113


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

114

FICHU NO. Diagram

3.

57

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Shoulder

Waist

25

inches

Shoulder Heights Back

Hips

43

inches

Neck Height of Waist

Across Chest

15

inches

Across Back

Neck

\5y2 inches

Length Waist

in

8

Front Inside

18

Elbow

inches to

Front

Heights

— 7 inches 8 — 5^ inches 7 — 15^ inches 9

Underarm 1st

and 2d Dolman

Wrist

46

13

inches

9

inches

lOyi inches

7^^ inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

2.

Follow instructions as

A

to

2 to

C

is

Z

is

line,

straight 3 inches, ;

in

Opera Cloak Lesson No.

1,

with exception of fohowing points:

E

to J is -}4 inch, and shape back as shown. and shape bottom of Fichu as shown from

or any desired shape.

F

through Z to

on front


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

57

115


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR

116

FICHU NO. Diagram

WOM.i:N.

4.

58

MEASURES.

7

inches

5^

inches

Bust

38

inches

Shoulder

Front

9

Waist

25

inches

Shoulder Heights Back

8

Hips

43

inches

Neck Height

Across Chest

15

inches

Across Back

Neck

15^

inches

Underarm

inches

1st

Length Waist

in

Front Inside

8

— 18

Elbow

to

Height

of Waist

and 2d Dolman

Wrist

7

-

46

15>4 inches 13

inches

9

inches

lOyi inches

7>2 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Follow instructions of Dolman No.

2.

For

3.

Curve from

plaits follow

our diagram

2.

closely.

E to Z, which is 3 inches above difference of shape in front.

waist

line,

same as Fichu No.

3,

with the


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

Diagram

58

li7


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

118

DOLMAN

NO.

5.

Diagram 59

MEASURES. JBust

38

inches

Shoulder

Waist

25

inches

Shoulder Heights

Hips

43

inches

Neck Height

Across Chest

Length Waist

— 18

8

Front

in

Inside

inches

Elbow

to

5-)'4

Waist

Underarm

\SYi inches

Neck

Back

Across Back

inches

15

-

to

—7 8— 7 — 15>^

9

Front

Heights

1st

and 2d Dolman

7^

Wrist

46

inches inches inches

13

inches

9

inches

— 10^

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2 for construction

lines

Measure hip

back and front.

the same to obtain 18.

Now

measure

man

D

H

to

on bust

line,

which

23 inches, and measure balance,

;

inches,

and I into half for point 7 and go up to T go down from 7 to 26 to 2 inches above waist 2.

deduct this from Dolfrom C to Z on bust line. Divide Z inches, which is ^ of bust plus 1 inch

in this case is 8? s inches

14%

5-)4

line,

;

giving second

Dolman

point.

Measure 16 19 width of back 2 inches 10>^ line from 26 to 16. Dolman, minus 2 inches leaves 8j/2 inches, which is measured from 26 to From H to 4 is a loss of 1 inch this inch is made up by going from Z to 35

Draw second Dolman

;

inches, second

point

6.

toward

;

front.

Inside sleeve from elbow to wrist is 73/2 inches; this is measured from 2 to V. U to L is a straight line down L to 13 is 1 inch. to 15 is 16 inches, length of sleeve. and 15. From ;

from 36

Now

to U, the same connect line U 13

U

Now

W

through draft curve, starting at 6 to Connect S with 15 as shown.

T

—35 and U.

From 6

backwards.

Now

connect

V

with 47 as shown, and V- -4 up to shoulder front.

to

S

is

a slight curve


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

59

119


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

120

DOLMAN

NO.

6.

Diagram 6o

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Shoulder

Waist

25

inches

Shoulder Height Back

Hips

43

inches

Neck Height

Across Chest

15

inches

Across Back

Neck

15^4 inches

Length Waist Inside

Elbow

in

to

— 18

8

Front

Waist

Underarm

inches

7^

Wrist

to

—7 8— 5^ 7 — 15^^

9

Front

Height

1st

and 2d Dolman

46

inches inches inches

13

inches

9

inches

lOyi inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

2.

Follow instructions of Dolman No.

W

From is

3.

is

IJ^ inches

from

line

R— I

and note the change of back. and bust line.

5

35 to 11 is ^4 inch; now draw line 11 Now connect points 3 A 2y2 inches.

—30

to 13;

30

— V— — — 16

10

Place separate piece of paper under sleeve and trace 13

is

E

to J

is

1

inch.

10 inches from V.

47, as

— 10—

11

diagram shows. to

U.

Point

17 to

V


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 60

121


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

122

DOLMAN

NO.

Diagram 6

7.

1

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Front

Waist

25

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Back

Hips

43

inches

Neck Height

Across Chest

15

inches

Across Back

Neck

153^ inches

Length Waist

in

— 18

inches

Elbow

to

8

Front Inside

to

—7 8 — S-H 7 — 15>^

9

Waist

Underarm 1st

and 2d Dolman

Wrist

46

inches inches

inches

13

inches

9

inches

10,'/.

inches

7^^ inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Follow instructions of Dolman No.

2.

35 to 11

5

is 34 of an inch. Point 41 sleeve connect line 41 and 11. The are 5 inches deep to points 30 29.

Now break hip line 21— 11— U— 13. 18 to

V

V

is

13

— 10

for back

front, with exception of following:

way between

is

halt

V

shapes are

1

waist and hip line. For under inch between 21 40 and 34 22, and

and turn under, and trace 10

to 41

—22

to

30

— — 40

29

V

shape,

25.

Now

3-1

hip measure less back, nameiy. 21'/^ inches.

——

Now conect 3 ^1 inch between 42 37 and 28 23, shape line 39 47 as diagram shows. to 15 is 2 inches.

1

and

15

and 15 with

making them

39.

5 inches

Take out 2

darts in

deep to points 38


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

61

123


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

\24

DOLMAN

NO.

8.

Diagram 62

MEASURES. Bust

8

inches

Neck Height

?

43

inches

Across Back

15

inches

Underarm

25

Hips Across Chest

Neck

inches

15^

Length Waist

— 18

8

Front

in

Inside

— 5^ inches — ISyi inches

Shoulder Heights Back

38

Waist

to

Waist

Underarm

inches inches

Elbow

to

1st

and 2d Dolman

Wrist

46

13

inches

9

inches

9

inches

lOyi inches

7^2 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Follow instructions of Dolman No. 7 for back with the following exceptions: 8 to 45

is

2 inches.

Dolman No.

L 2.

D

to 13 is line 13-

1

to 43 is

is

1

inch.

Connect 45 with 11 and take out 2 Vs, same as

and connect with 23, which is center between waist and and follow same rules as Dolman No. 7.

inch,

—23

46

45 to 41

7.

Now

break

W—

is bust measure less C, width of back plus 1 inch; namely, 15>^ inches. 43 to 2 inches down, same as 8 to 45 in back. Connect 46 with 31, going slightly out.

From 25 to 24 is l^-S inches, and 2 29 is also 1 J/ inches. square down; and 2 29, and square up and down.

Now

hip.

Divide 25

shape gore from 52 to 24—46 9 to 39—51 and front 37 to 2 to 47, following diagram closely.

tom 37

—24

—9— — 4

3.

into half

and

Shape bot-


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 62

125


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

126

CAPE WITH ONE DART. (38 inch Bust.)

Diagram 6}

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

1.

Take

line

A

—B

and square

to D.

jacket pattern, front and back, and place

H

same

in

square as shown with dotted

Let C be 8 inches and 8^2 inches from A, E to F is I3/2 inches and N and inch between L and O. space of 1 inch between

L

— M —K

Use

A

M

K

gives dart on shoulder.

as a pivot

and sweep

to

any desired length.

at waist,

lines.

which leaves a


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 63

127


.

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

128

TWO

CAPE WITH

DARTS.

(38 inch Bust.)

Diagram 64

INSTRUCTIONS. 1

Use same

rule as for previous cape

and

find center of

N

and

M

;

namely, R, and connect

with a guide line to A. 2.

T

and S are lyi inches from R.

P and L

is

connect

J4 inch

from Y.

O —T— L— P— K

Square

Y

to 27.

Use

on Une

A

A —R.

as a pivot

Do same

with point R.

and sweep

to

For darts

any desired length.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 64

129


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

!50

COACHMAN'S FUR CAPE. DiAt;KAM 65

MEASURES. Rust

38 inches

-

First

Dolman

4()

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

For box, use same

rule as our loose front

Draft shoulders, neck curves, 2.

From

No.

1,

only making

it

and back, same as Lesson No.

at front

to

the

waist

seam

decrease this distance

T and

slightly

Measure distance point

D,

through

T

right in center of shoulder. J/j

for respective

toward front to C,

and measure 2.

incli

which

K

to

in

Dolman

;

this

this case 2.i

inches,

sizes.

From

to

I

Now

T

draft

is

4 inches

line

line.

2.

front shoulder take '2 inch off and allow this on back shoulder, as shown.

to bring shoulder

and

jacket

:

This

is

increase or

from L through S

completes back. is

10 inches, and place this 10 inches on front

giving point

through 8 and slightly toward back to

W.

S.

Tliis

Now

draft

line

completes diagram.

from

\


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 65

131


:

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM

!32

i:N

HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT Diagram 66

FRONT— FIGURE To

1.

grade from 36 to 38 bust

Your heavy

Mark

line in this

out your front A, shoulder, G, R,

H

diagram shov\s your 36

B and

bust,

FRONT PART.

C, then raise your shoulder 3-16 of an inch to obtain your 3S

and T.

After this has been done, move your front ys of an inch over (parallel with front) half way between 3 and 4, and grade your dart R, I, H.

Then move your

front

—T.

%

of an inch again over to point 4 (parallel with front) to obtain arm-

scye, 10

Bring your pattern down to original shoulder, keeping front on point

4,

and continue arniscy.,

10 to Z.

Underarm seam

is

graded yi inch from

To grade down from 36 the

to 34, use the

same measurements.

O

to Z, straight

same

down

to

K

instructions as above,

and Y. only grading down, using


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

Diagram 66

133


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

1}4

MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT. {Continued)

Diagram 67

BACK PART— FIGURE ^'ouI•

heavy

line

in

Raise your liack shoulder

.i-16 of

an inch

^^ove your pattern over across hack .'Vfler

ohtaininii'

this

point

keeping back on

.Vow

P

ccjiinect

to (),

10 with

D — E,

10.

|)oint

E

underarm seam,

To make back

BACK PART.

diagram showi your 36 bust,

this

'j

D— E.

line

inch from

.1

to 4 to

down

nio\e your pattern

lo

oret

point 10.

\dur original M> sh(julder.

It

— T.

4 parallel.

and 10 with is

'4

to

2.

inch,

P.

straight

down

to

L

— K.

shoulder and neck correspond with your front, take olT ^s inch on shoulder point,

and proceed from D- -W, raising

W

1-16 inch from B.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 67

135


B

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

136

ULSTER NO.

1.

Diagram 68

MEASURES. Bust

.

Waist Hips

.

-\cross Chest

Neck

.38

inches

Across Back

..25

inches

Underarm

..43

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Front

15

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Back

inches

Length Back

1

;

5^

to

13

inches

9

inches

—7 8 — 5^

9

Waist

7

inches

inches

IS'A inches

INSTRUCTIONS. This draft

is

made by

draw box, with

cutting out any jacket, tight or loose fitting, to the second hip.

the exception of shoulder heights, as Lesson No.

ing the pattern at bust as

diagram shows

point

let

;

place notches on bust line of

line,

N

be 6 inches below

straight to points

S

point X, which

6 inches below waist

To

is

VV.

Continue front

waist

down

line

and measure

inches measure

up

to gores as

1-3

this

of

from

V

to S,

W

remainder from

diagram shows.

box and

line

explains

;

after notch-

straight on line

A

and continue gores down

straight

to

point

V.

Also

note

line.

get sweep at bottom of ulster, multiply bust measure

inches,

1

Then

to

W

19 inches

B, and whatever to

T

is

and 2-3 from S

2^

times, giving 42^4

missing to to C,

make 42^4

and shape straight


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 68

137


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

138

ULSTER NO.

2.

Diagram 69

MEASURES. 38

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

L'nderarm

Hips

43

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Front

Across Chest

15

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Back

Xeck

1534 inches

Bust

-

Length Back

to

Waist

13

inches

9

inches

—7 8— 5^ 7 — 1554

9

inches inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

The two gores

in this draft

same instructions 2.

are placed together, leaving back and front alone,

as on Lister No.

1,

Figure the sweep the same as Ulster No.

sweep go toward

1)ack

and 1/3 toward

and note point 1,

N

to be

6 inches below waist hne.

being careful always to

front.

l-'ollow the

let

Diagram shows same.

2-3 of remainder of


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 69

I.i9


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

140

PRINCESS DRESS. Diagram 70

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

L'nderarm

43

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Front

Across C/hest

13

inches

Shoulder

Heights

Back

Xeck

15'4

inches

Length

Hips

..-,

liack

to

Waist

13

inches

9

inches

—7 8 — 5j4

9

7

-15,'/2

inches

inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. I

he (haft

is

ah'cady explained

gore are separate.

A

in the

preceding- lesson,

garment of

hut diagram onlv shows

little

this

flare.

kind

L'sc the

is

with the exception that back anti l)ack

always cut with a large

same

rules in getting

tlare

and a

train,

sweep as Ulster \o.

1.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 70

141


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

142

HOOD

NO.

Diagram

1.

71

MEASURES. Bust

36

iiidies

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

E

and

to 1) fjiven.

I

E and

line

J',

to

incli

[•'

and

1'"

id

11

is

al\va\s '4 of

l)U.st

measure. 9

inelies.

S(|uare ])oints

jusl

wlneli constitute box.

'lace jacket

C

to

B.

A all

is

hack and front together as dotted front of jacket or cape.

around

this

u hen wearing hood.

curve

is

stitclied

Xow

line

sliows.

draft curve

11

and draft neck curve through

G

to

.\,

as

I"",

to

shown:

and cord placed hetweeu to give the desired

('; '4

effect


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

71

«43


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

144

HOOD

NO.

Diagram

2.

72

MEASURES. 36 inches

Bust 1.

Top

2.

From F

of

tliis

hood

same

is

as No.

to P is 4 inches, and for respective sizes I to

willi

from B

H

:

1.

is

1

exception of

to I

is Sj/>

Now

inch.

F

to

B being

'/s

of bust,

4j/j

inches.

inches, increase or decrease these distances connect these points with straight line, as

shown.

Now

draft curve

from

H

through

G

to

A.

HOOD

NO. 3

Diagram 73

MEASURES. Bust

36 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

Follow instructions as No.

2.

B

to 1

is 6'/2

inches,

and

1

2,

to

with exception of following:

H

is

2 inches

;

draft line

B

to

H

to line J. as

diagram shows.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

D(J)-

E

Diagram No. 2

72

14 =

Dg>

Diagram No.

^

7^


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

146

KNEE LEGGINGS. Diagram

74

MEASURES. Knee

6>4 inches

Calf

7

Ankle

5

Instep

7 inches

inches

Shoe Length

9 inches

inches

Full Length

Calf Length

.....20

inches

Syi inches

INSTRUCTIONS. 1.

2.

Draw

O — G,

line

O

to

X

<j

to

F

2^

M

P

to

and

From G

to

F

F

to

D

is

2 inches; these measures never vary.

and G.

down from

I',

giving points

to

6jX inches from AI to A.

is

out

v^

L

inch and measure from

to

F

C

to

calf measure, 7 inches.

is

E

'4

inch.

Shape

line

from

inch.

Draft

line

from B through

P.

through

to A.

B

Instep from

Q— H to

4.

20 inches.

ankle measure, 5 inches; square line up and

is

B go

E—D— C From B

full length,

Z.

Knee measure

3.

and

inches,

Square points O, X, D,

From D

is

5y2 inches, calf length.

is is

which

to J

is

7 inches.

From Z

9 inches, shoe lengtii.

I

is

I,

and

I

through

J— P—L

N is half distance between () This completes knee leggings.

anil

to

to

H

is

1

M.

M, which square

to

O, giving button

line.

SHOE LEGGINGS. Diagram These leggings are the same as knee leggings,

75

e.xcept that the length

is

S inches.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

147

"(e)W

Diagram

74

Diagram

75



Waists


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

150

WAIST. FIRST LESSON. DiAGRAiM 76

MEASURES. Bust

3?^

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

Underarm

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights Front.

Across Chest

15V2 inches

Neck

14

Length Front of Waist.

.

.

.7J4

— 17/^

14

8^

Shoulder Height Back

Back

Waist

inches

Lengtii

inches

Length of Shoulder

to

IXSTRI'CTIO.XS. I

A

line

)r;i\\

1

.'\

to

C

From A

to

!",

From

E

to

B

is

This

D D

1

is

to

G

is

Cj

to

H

is

C

to

1

is

15'_> inches,

J

',

is

'/i

'4

yi,

length of waist

back. in 'hack.

E.

B on

B.

line .\,

of bust measure plus is

1

inch.

lost in cutting out

In this case

20 inches.

the fiattern.

inch allowed for breathing.

of Ijust measure, of bust

7 inches.

Square point

in

first hip.

we allowed

inch

y

is

7'4 inches, neck height

jjoints C,

to L)

to

is

4 inches, the

Square over

From C

1.

I)

'

and

Sf|uare up points G.

in

this case 3 inciies.

measure plus I'j

inches.

of back measure.

_>

11, I

up and down. on

line C, D.

In this case 4 inciies.

-9^4

6

— — 8J4

7'-^

inches inches

inches inches

7j4~15j/2 inches ^1/4

inches


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

151

A

a D

H

m-

#

^t)

E i\)

^B

Diagram 76


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

l';2

WAIST.

SECOND LESSON. SECOND LESSON.

n

Diagram

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

.\cross

Waist

25

inches

Underarm

Hips

41

Across Chest

15J/ inches

Neck

14

Length Front of Waist

7)^

— 171^

Back

14 8J/2

Shoulder Heights Front

inches

Length Back

inches

to

Waist

Length of Shoulder

inches

inches

— 8>4 — 6 7)4 — 15>^

inches

5^

inches

9>4

Shoulder Heights Back

inches

JYa,

inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. C

to

Y

is

2^

C

to

P

is

6 inches, the second shoulder height

Y

to

O

is

inches.

834 inches, the

Square over

A

and

In squaring

P

over point

R

S

to

is )/2

P

on

first

line

R

l)ack.

shoulder height back.

A, B.

found crossing

is

line

inch.

Draft neck, A, O, and draw back shoulder, O, S,

At

H

front,

Square point

G

X

to

is

X

to

1

is

to 3

X

first

to 2

shoulder height front.

over l'< inches, to point

1

to 27. 1 1

to 27.

front shoulder from 11 to is

11.

2 inches.

Draft neck curve from

Z

inches.

3.

Square over point

Draw

.^'4

"54 inches, second shoulder height front.

is

9>4 inches,

Square point

I.

7)4 inches,

y'l

3, 5;k; inches,

the

same

as brick shoulder.

It

is

S.

3.

In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line it

),

of chest mea.sure.

Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to

Also do not bring

(

below the

I,

R.

i)ust line.

very important to follow the draft of arni.scye very carefully, and get the shape as near as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large, while a small armscye can easily be made larger.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

153

E 4^

B

4)

Diagram

77


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

154

TIGHT FITTED LINING FRENCH SEAMS. DiAClKAM 78

'

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

Underarm

Hips

41

inches

Across Chest

t^V^ inches

Neck

14

inches

— 7/4 inches .Shoulder Height Back inches 6 — Length Backand Waist. .7^ — 15>4 inches

— ijy2

inches

Length of Shoulder

Length Front of Waist.

.

.

.7%

14

inches

8j4 inches

.Shoulder Heights Front.

.

.

.9^4

8^/i

to

5^

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in the First and .Second Lessons for Waists. Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches.

T to S is 2^ At waist line,

inches.

E

to J is lyi inches in all cases. inches. 1J4 This measure varies ys inch, according to larger or smaller sizes, where the back is tight ting with two gores. inches, v\hicli nuist l)e diviiled into 'j liack Waist measure, 25 inches; 34 of same is

J to

K

is

6^

fit-

and

two equal gores.

K L

to L to 7

inch.

is 1

7 inches. As we only need -t inches in this case, the other 2j4 inches are taken out in two darts of 1% inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to he divided equally into two gores of 2J4 inches each. L to 4, 23'j inches; 4 to 5, 1% inches; .t to 6, 2>j inches; 6 to 7. IJ^ inches. 1'.4 inches. On hip line measure from B to Draw center back line from A through J to \'. Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure "4 inch fo 15, }i inch is

V

to 10.

the center of 4 and 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 75 and inch to 74. Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure A4 inch to 13 and 34 inch to 14. 28 to 30 is 834 inches length of underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30. .Shape gores as shown. Measure back neck. A O, which is 2'/2 inches, place these 2^4 inches on front neck at point M. measure to 27, which is 14 inches neck measure. 27 to is 7v inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 17j4 inches, length waist in front. Draw front line from through to 27 and down from to IS slightly shaped to 71. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. Place the Gy^l inches which is J4 of waist measure in liack on point 30. measure over 12^/2 inches, which is '4 of waist measure plus '4 inch, which gives us point 9.

Take

^

Q

M

9 to

M

These

M

inches

and

more than

is

the natural waist

measure are taken out

in

front

dart between 9

8.

At front shoulder 32 20 to 19

M

2}i inches.

is

2]/;

22 to 20

O

O

3 inches, the same as back shoulder to T. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point \^. 2-54 inches, the .same as back shoulder T S. to

22

is

2 inches taken out.

is

Reshajje arm-scye from 28 through li to 19. is 3-f4 inches. At front bust line D to .Shape the front as diagram shows. After the two front gores have been cut out, lay pattern together at points 22 22 20 to 40. inch raise at top, as shown by the dotted line points 32 tom of waist as shown.

W

— —

20, allowing ^4

Shape the

bot-


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

78

1S5


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

1S6

TIGHT LINING WAIST WITH ONE GORE. Diagram 79

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Across Bade

Waist

25

inches

L'nderarm

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights Front.

Across Chest

isV^ inches

Neck

Length Front of Waist

7'/^

— I7yi

8^

Length Back

to

.

.pj^

.

Waist

8J4

Shoulder

inches

inches

7}4 inches

15^

7 x

Shoulder Heights Back:

inches

14

:

inches

14

inches

6

inches

5%

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. same instructions

P'olovv

At waist is

The

E

Take center 6 28 to 24

4

—4 and —6 5

I34 inches; 5 to 6

is

3 inches; 6 to 7

of waist measure.

inches length of underarm.

from

line

shoulder

at

^

up and down.

waist line from 5 to 24;

Draw back

is

and square down.

5

7 square

8^

is

Draw new

T

is

.^

2 inches.

distance between J

to

and second lessons for Waists.

to J is 1_^2 inches; J to 4 is S'^ inches; 4 to

Take center of

S

as given in first

F

—J

B

to

F

is

1

inch.

to A.

43^ inches.

is

Shape two back gores as shown.

From 27 on neck

to

D

is

7^

inches, highest point of chest,

down

to 34

is

Wyi

inches, length

front of waist.

Draw new At

waist line from 24 to 34.

waist in front 34 to 13

Draw

front line

from

13

is

—O

)4 inch.

to 27 slightly

shaped

From

measure, 6^4 inches plus jA inch to V. out in front dart 22 23.

From

(J

on bust

tliis

i)oint,

line to

15

is

3f^ inches.

to

From

take out each side of line to 22

29. \

Measure from

to front line is

down to 35 inches and to 23

this point 1^4,

2j-'4

is

7 to 21,

}i

inches which

of waist is

taken

3 inches, square

down

l^.

.Shape dart and bottom as shown. .\t

shoulder

I'oint It

is

lO

is

to 12

11

jioint 3

is

2 inches; 12 to 14 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches 31. Reshajje armscye from 28 to 31.

we add on

which gives us point

1'/.

inches below 15.

Shape dart

as

shown.

necessary in all linings and shirt waists to take a dart out (.11 shoulder. Then place dart together at points X 14 down to 35, and cut over new front. The dart at bottom between 30 33 will increase as shown in blouse shirt waist.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

U

X

Diagram 79

157


Q

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

158

TIGHT-FITTING

TWO

PIECE LINING.

Diagram 80

MEASURES. Bu.st

38

iiK-hes

Across Rack

Waist

25

inches

L'nderarm

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Heights Front

Across Chesi

1314 inches

^'eck

14

Length Front of Waist

Length of Back

to

— 6 — 8>4 7J4 — 15^

inches

5%

inches

9>4

Waist

7]/^

Length of Shoulder

inches

inches

8>4 inches

.Shoulder Height Back

inches

714—171^

14

inches

inches

LMSTRL'CTIONS. I'ollow

same instructions

.\t

waist line

E

.\l

bottom

B

to

Draw back

to J

is

F

1

line

is

from

Take center of 6 is 83/'

I)raw

new

as gi\cn in first

l^i,

inches;

J

to 6

and second lessons for waists. is

,s

inches; 6 to 7

is

3 inches.

inch.

F. J to A.

7,

square down, from this

line to

18

is

T

'4

inch and to 17

is

17^2 inches, length of waist front.

is

inch.

1

to 7

inches, length of underarm.

waist line from J to 10.

Shai)c back gore as shown.

At neck 27

to

D

7J4 inches.

is

Draw new^waist

line

to 27 slightly

from 10

shaped to

Highest point of chest, to 4.

From 4

to

13

is

to

4

y, inch.

Shape front

line

Measure waist from J to 6 which is 5 inches. Place the 5 inches on point 7. to point 21 which is !^ of waist From 12J/ inches, plus y'l inch to V. is 2-54 inches which is taken out in front dart, between 8. .^

'

>n

bust line

from

U

Square down from

to 15

is 3->4

this point,

from

29.

inches.

From

measure from

this point

this line to

down .s,

l-j/g

to 19

is

m

Measure over

X

to front line

3 inches.

inches and to

8.

\yi inches.

Shape dart and l)ottom as shown. Follow same instructions for the dart

13

shoulder as given in diagram 79, page 156


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

11

X

Diagram 80

15^1


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

160

BLOUSE SHIRT WAIST. Diagram

81

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

Underarm

Hips

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

-9%

— 7%

Across Chest

153/2

inches

Shoulder Height Back

6

14

inches

Xeck Height and

inches

Neck Length Front of Waist.

.

.

.7J4

— 17/^

14

inches

Syi inches

-

inches

8J4 inches

to

Waist. .y% — 15^^

nches

Length of Shoulder

5^

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

At waist

Draw

On

E

line

to J

straight line

bust line

Draw new

to

I

1

from

waists.

inch.

A

to J to

1>4 inches;

is

and second lessons for

T

F; J to 6

is

5y2 inches; 6 to 7

to 21 is Syi inches, length of

is

3 inches.

underarm.

waist line from J to 21.

Take center of 7 17

T

is

in first

is

—6

which

inch; to 18

-34

is

is

point

square down.

5,

Draw

line

from

5 to

'P.

From

this line to

-H inch.

Shape back gore as shown. Take center of 17

up i'roni

to

27 to in

¥

set in a triangle,

which gi\es n)ore spring on hip as shown, from 14 to 16

15.

D

734 inches, highest point of chest,

is

down

Id 13

is

Uy'j inches to length of waist

front.

I)raw

new waist

line

from 21

Draw

front line

from

to 13.

27— O— 13

to 29.

Shape bottom as shown.

At shoulder take out a 2 inch dart between 12 10 down to 8. Add the 2 inches on point 3 which gives us point 31. Reshape armscye from H to 31, the same instruction as given in diagram 79. page 156. Cut through on the straight line from 20 to 8. Lay dart together at point 12

from 14

— 10

to 8,

make new

pattern where

to 15 in following lesson.

we

gain 234

inches in the front of waist


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

81

161


8

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

162

COMPLETE FRONT OF SHIRT WAIST Diagram

82

INSTRUCTIONS. Showing how

to cut a

waist pattern by laying the dart together at Shoulder, points 6

new

where we gain the

How

to apply or

make

Measure from front

4

when

11.

line 4

Open

finished.

fullness at

bottom of waist from 14

to 15.

a box pleat on the front of a blouse waist.

over

11

the width of pleat 2 to

and

more

inches

23-4

and

17

pleat

1

1

and 9

inch to 3 to 8 is

and press on

1

10.

inch.

lines,

2

From

3 to 2 and 10 to 9

To form 9 and 3

is

pleat stitch together on lines

— 10

which

will

For

2 inches. 1

be a 2 inch pleat


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

82

163


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMii^N

!64

TURN-OVER COLLAR.

SHOWN

ILLUSTRATION. (ON PAGE 163) IN

Diagram

83

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

line

K

B

D

J— 1— H

is

break

C

to

E

and

."^hape collar as

L

14 inches, neck measure.

is i^ inch;

K

to

I is

1>^ inches,

line for the turn

A

to

shown.

F

is

over

center of

is

same as

collar.

I

D

to

on page 16).

D.

H—B

toGis lYz

>4 inch.

Illustration of collar

B

Square up points

to J. for

inches,

B L

under standing

same

as J to

A

and

D.

L

to

collar.

H

to C.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

Diagram

83

16";


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

166

BISHOP SLEEVE. Dia(;kam 84

INSTRUCTIONS. of bust measuie, A — B. A to J is 4^4 inches, y» of bust measure. J to D is Square over ail given points. inches. D to B is J4 of bust measure, 9 inches.

Draw

A

to

line

E

^/i

Square rlovn

16 inches, 2 inches less than Vj of b;i?t measure.

is

E

^

to K.

This completes box for sleeve.

Take center of to

G

Square up

K— B,

is

O

inch

'A

to

N

i

which gives us point T. Square down X to P and J to C is i inch u is ;

;

inch.

A

to

F

is

2!4 inches;

E

to

I

is

T J^

^A

M

to 3 inches. the distance of

D to Q A — E.

and P

inches.

Shape sleeve as shown.

TIGHT LINING SLEEVE. DlAUR.\M

(S5

MEASURES. Hqlf of Back Length

To Elbow

inches

7

I93/2 inchej

29>1 inches

Full

INSTRUCTIONS.

M

.\ to L is 19y.. inches to elbow A to B is 29'^ to is /j of back measure. 7 inches is 1 inch. Square over of bust measure, 4V2 inches: F to to F is inches to wrist This comto S is '4 "f ''I'^t measure, '* inches. Squ;ire down to 11. all given points. pletes box for sleeve.

From A

;

M

;

D

to

I

M

Square over I to X, 4/2 inches. 2 inches. to i' S to L is 2 inches: to O, I inch. of bust measure, 4'/2 inches: L to C is 1 inc.).

X

O

to \'

is

3 inches;

Square down

G

to

K

E

is

5 inches.

J^ inch

down

Draw

Take

Draw

line

to J

;

H

to

G

is

is

v_,

jA inch:

is

uch.

M—

the distance of Square N S. T to R is 1 inch: R lO is center of 1], II, which gives us K.

is

up

G

;

D

^

1

inch.

G

Draw

F. line

G —J.

completes undersleeve. 'ihape top sleeve

from G. *R, *P, *L, *0.

'=1,

*C. *E.

This completes top sleeve.

W

%


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

167

* X

,m~

a

w

p

fa

In 00

u <

Q


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

168

TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS FOUR PIECES. Diagram 86

MEASURES. 38 25

Bust Waist

inches inches 41 inches 15J/2 inches inches 14 Ty^—l?^/^ inches

Hip Across Chest

Neck Length Front Waist

Across Back

14

Underarm

8^/2

Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Heights Back Neck Height of Waist Length of Shoulder

— — 7^ —

9/4

8}i

inches inches 7 ]4 inches inches 6 15^ inches 5^4 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given .\t

waist

in First

and Second Lessons for waists.

E

to J is 1 inch. In this case 10 inches. line,

we only need Oj/j inches, which is "4 of 26 waist measure. The other 434 inches more than needed are taken out between the two darts at back. inches. which is Measure waist from J to L is ly4 inches L to 6 is 3->4 inches; 6 to 7 is 2^4 inches and L to 6 is 6>2 inches, J4 of waist measure in back. J to through J \' to 89, which is 56 inches, the full length of garment. Draw center back line from The back is cut on the fold of material. inch to \5. and 's inch Take the center of L K, where the line crosses on first hip. measure

J

to 7

is

K

K

2^

:.

;

K

A

1

to 10.

Un

second hip, where line crosses, measure 2 inches to 44 and Ji inch to 4,v Continue line from 44 to 79, from 43 to 88. Square the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down to full length. Where line crosses on first hip measure, 1- inches to 13 and y'^ inch to 14. On second hip where line crosses measure 2j^ inches to 81 and l^A inches to Continue line down from 81 to 90 and 80 to 87.

80.

Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. to S is Zji inches. 28 to 30 is Syi inches underarm measure. Draw a new waist line from L to 30. Shape back and .side gore as diagram shows. .\t hip, measure from V to 10, 15 to 14 and 13 to 33, which is 20>2 inches, >^ of hip measure. 33 to 18 is Zy^ inches. These 2^2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip line between lb and 17. Measure back neck curve A O, which is 2^ inches. Place these 2^2 inches at the front neck on point 32, measure to 27, 15 inches. Now draw center front line from 27 through O 18 to 71 full length of garment.

T

27 to

Q

7 >^ inches, the highest point of chest. waist line from 30 to M. over 13 inches, which gives us point 9,

is

27 to

M

is

17}^

inches, length front of waist.

Draw new

which is ^> of waist measure. of waist measure, in back at point 30. Place the 6>4 inches, which is and 8, is Zyi inches, these 2^ inches are taken out in the front dart between 9 to on front bust line is 3^ inches, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, D to to T. Front shoulder the same as back shoulder 22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. to 19. Reshape armscye from 28 through Shape the front as diagram shows. at bust line, and meet the two Now cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point points on shoulder, 22 and 20. At neck point 32 raise }i inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder from 32 through 3 to 40. The front is cut on the fold of material.

Measure

M

%

W

O

H

W


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

|JlACK,V.U

So

169


6

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

170

BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER. Diagram

ii?

MEASURES. Bust

Waist

-^H

inclie^

Across iiack

-3

iin-bes

I'nder

-

41

Hips

14

Arm

Sy^ inches

indies

Shoulder Height Front

Across Chest

13'..

inches

Shoulder Height, Hack

Neck

14

inches

Xeck Height and

inches

Length of

7^ — 17,V2

Length Front of Waist

inches

9'/$

inches

7j-j

— — ISVj

8j4

to Waist.. ..7 j4

Shoulder

inches inches

5^4 inches

IXSTRUCTIONS. same instructions

l'"ollo\v

I

)n Ijust line

19 to 10

is

from

1

as given

to 19. 11 to 8

S

3 '4 inches;

to

20

is

Blouse Shirt Waist, diagram 81, page l60

Square over 8

5 inches.

Vi inch: 3 to

is

Shape armscye and shoulder

the

in

4

is

to

12,

inch.

'/2

—20— 10—T— H — L— 12— — 3

from

2 inches.

completes

the

joined on the

liot-

This

11.

blouse.

Draft new sleeve for blouse.

Draw

line

B to 21

is

L

L

B.

to

15

Square over the given

Square down

To

'4

bust, 9 inches,

3 inches taken off for cuff' as

tom of sleeve 17

21 to

is

to

1

20,

which gives

])oints,

L

to

shown

is >2 inch; 16 to 17 inches; 18 to 19 is 1

10 to 9

is

j/j

Measure from 6 Shape

is 8>-2

inch

cuff as

is

'4 bust,

the diagram.

9 inches.

This cuff

14 inches, 4 inches less than

1.

is

full length.

is

yj inch; 15 to 14

incli.

'-j

of l)ust measure.

;

inches.

9 to 6. 11 to

Take center 7.

8 to

.;'4

of

is

1

1

the

8.

5 is 3^/2 inches.

to 7, 6 to 5, 5 '4 inches.

shown.

is

inch; 12 to 13

is

-Vj

inch; 3 to 2

is

Shape as shown.

place sleeve in blouse, bring notch A. whicli

8

in

B

to

If).

20

P'or cuff 11 to

l.s

underarm of square

u\).

sleeve,

on point L

in

blouse.

2


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

<x'

Oi

Diagram 87

171


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

172

BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE. Diagram 88

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

Underarm

Hip

41

inches

Shoulder Heights Front

Across Chest

15>^ inches

Neck

14

inches

Length Back

— 173^

inches

Length of Shoulder

Length Front of Waist.... 734

Shoulder

14

9j4

Height Back to

Waist

7]/^

inches

8^ 7%

8J4

—6

inches

— 15>4

inches

5^

inches

inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

Under arm from

T

to 5

is

3 inches.

——

Draw new armhole from

and second lessons for Waists and diagrams 81-82

in first

2

4

3 10 to S.

Draft new sleeve for the blouse.

Draw

line 3 to 22.

10 to 22 is 11 inches, length of sleeve to elbow; 10 to 13 is Zy^ inches, 34 inch less on each inch, the distance from T to 5 at the underarm of blouse.

Square points 3 Square

Draw 3 to 8

1

down

— 10— 13—22 over, 3

V/i inches; 19 to 20 is from 3 to 6, 6 to

18 to 17

3 J4 inches and is 1/2

Shape sleeve

1

is

14 inches.

to 19, 5 to 2 is J^ of bust 4J^ inches

line is

to

1

1

is

1

2 to 4 inch.

1.

to 7

inch; 15 to 16

inch; 21 to 22

;

is

is 1/2

3

K

inches.

inch.

21— 17—14—8-4—7— 12— 11— 1&-20.

This completes sleeve for

this blouse.

is

1>4 inches; 13 to 14

12 to 11

is


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 88

175


j

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

174

HOW TO MAKE A KIMONO

SLEEVE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram 89

MEASURES. Back

38

iiu'lies

Acrcjss

Waist

25

inches

L'nderarm

[lip

41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

.\cross Chest

l.^'j

inches

Shoulder Height Back

Bust

.

.Veck

14

Length Front of Waist

7>4

— 17^2

8'

Neck Height and

inches

Length

inches

indies

14

— 7jj 6 — 8% 7>4 — 15>4 93-^

to Wai.st...

Shoulder

of

inclies

S-}!!

inches

inches inches indict

INSTRLCTKJNS. Lay hack and

Draw

line

IS to 11

is

front

shoulders togetiier. allowing between 16

from 18 tlirough 17 10 inches.

S(|uarc i>oints 7

— 12

to 10,

1')

to 8

l.v

inch.

inches, length of sleeve to elbow.

.Square over 11 to

down

17, J4

7.

7 inclies.

t'onnect

1,^

with

11 8.

to 12 I'roni

is

6 inches.

If)

to

''

is

1

inch.

Shape bottom as shown. At the underarm of waist on back pari we gain At the underarm of waist on front part we lose

Shape

tlie

underarm of waist

at

12

—7

'4

1

inch,

inch,

round as shown.

from

from

14 to 7.

.^

to 6.

original line to 12,

and 21

to 22.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 89

175


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

176

KIMONO WAIST WITH AN UNDER GORE WORKED FROM A BLOCK PATTERN Diagram 90

MEASURES. Bust

38

inches

Across Back

Waist

25

inches

Underarm

.41

inches

Shoulder Height Front

15J^ inches

Shoulder Heights Back

Hips Across Chest

Neck Length Front of Waist

7

.14

inches

SJ^ inches

15

inches

Neck Height

— 17

inches

Length of Shoulder

— 8J4 — 6 7^ — 9j4

of Waist

inches

7j/$

inches

15J/2

inches

5-34

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Take your

plain shirtwaist pattern, lay the

two shoulders together and mark the whole blouse

as

diagram shows.

Cut back, neck and front out of pattern.

F

Bring point

drawn

again, and

Measure on

to

G

line

Square over S

From S

T

to J

is

1

G

to I

Now

connect

You

will

and S

M

L

with L,

lose

from L

B

E down

is

with is

to

open the pattern

;

is

is

the length of sleeve to elbow.

8 inches.

J,

6% inches R with N,

on each

and

N

side.

with P.

our original pattern. 1

and

N

to 2

we

allow between

B and

C, which

is

3>^ inches.

C, which gives us point E. to

D, Syi inches, underarm blouse, the same as

square on point A, which

L

—T

diagram shows.

to P. as

N, which

take the center of

and

Now

T

see the dotted line

Square on point

Now

which

P.

G

line

diagram shows.

18 inches, which

is

to

as

middle

inch.

L and

The amount we

Then

G —T

line

to get

7^4 inches.

is

Square over to

and break your pattern

which

S,

Shape from J through

From

H

exactly on

is

IOJ/2 inches,

underarm

sleeve,

L

to

M

and

the same distance as

N N

to R. to

to J.

connect the underarm to the body by bringing

V

to Y,

X

to

K,

U

to

Q

and

W

to

O.

P


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

DlAGRAM 90

177


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

178

MANISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. Diagram

91

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

A

A

%

to 7 is 4^/2 inches, of 17 to B is J4 of bust measure, taken off the length for the cuff.

line

to B.

inches.

Square 28

23

to

Draw

given points.

all

C

to D.

yi inch

is

line

from

inches.

To 'ilic

A

to

C

is

Complete box for ;

A

22 to 21

to 5

and

is

i)ust ">

measure.

B

inches.

7 to 17

to 28

14 inches. 4 inches less than

J/-

is

'4

is

3 inches.

of bust measure, 9 These 3 niches are

of bust measure.

down

Scjuare

sleeve.

^2 inch

5 to C.

C

;

14 to 15

to 4

is

is

1

inch

:

3'j inches;

16 to 17 .\

to 3

is is

1

3j

inch 24 to inches; 1 :

2.5

is

to 2

_>

1

is

inch. !'/

Shape sleeve as shown.

make

o])ening in sleeve, from 23 to 27 is 4''.. inches. .Square u]) to 27, 5]/' inches to 20. piece set on over opening, is IJ/ inches wide, as shown, from 27 to 26. 20 to 19 and uj) to 18.

l''or

cuff,

draw

line

11

tn 13.

')

inches,

—

the distance of 12 '\ whicli sleeve to fit cuff' at 13 to 11.

is '/j

Take center is

break

at

12.

line for

s(|uarc uj) to 9, 6 inches.

turn back cuti.

From 22

to

8 and 10

23 gather


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

OlAGKAM

91

179


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR

180

HOW

WOM:i:N.

TO MAKE SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL. Diagram 92

INSTRUCTIONS. Measure from

Draw

from the bottom of

a line

32 to 21

the deepest point of neck, 22 to

is 2-34

inches, 34 inch

Square over on 35 to 36

24—26,

1

inch.

26 through 23 to 24.

more than back neck measure.

\y^ inches to 25, standing band, and over to 35.

Yi inch allowed for spring.

is

Shape back Shape

line

lapel at

22>.

line of collar

collar

and

lapel as

from

25, 24, 21 to 36.

diagram shows.

Place separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar.

To

trace out lapel, break on line 26, 24, turn paper under, will

and trace out the shape of

lapel,

which

be reversed on opposite side.

HOW

TO MAKE NOTCH COLLAR. Diagram9J

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

which gives the notch.

Shape as shown.

in

shawl collar with the exception from 19

to

18,

draw

line


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 92

Diagram 93

181


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

1«2

HOW TO MAKE A LAY-DOWN COLLAR FROM BLOCK

PATTERN

WITHOUT STAND BAND. Diagram 94

i.\srRi'(

Lay hack ami fniiU

sIkiuIcKts idi^elhcr al

|iijiiUs

case 4 inclics.

Al

liacls

Shape

fniiii

_'

t(i

1

allow

collar as sluiwn fiMin

'4

.1

iiicli

for

— —2 — 1

spriiijj;.

3 to

'1.

ri(

4

)Ns.

7.

Make

cc)llai"

any

(k-sircil

wiiltli.

in

Uiis


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

DiACUAM

94

I83


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

184

HOW TO MAKE A

SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN

WITHOUT STAND BAND. Diagram 95

INSTRUCTIONS.

Lav front and back shoulders together case from neck to 6

from 6

Draw

straight line

From

2 to

Draw

line frorr 3 to

1

shown.

is

is

at

Collar

is

•/.

Make

collar

any desired length,

in thii

6 inches.

to 4.

spring. J4 inch allowed for 1.

points 4

Square over on

this line 7

7 inches deep in back.

inches to

5.

Shape

collar

from 6

5

a=


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

DlAGKAil 95

185



Sl^irts


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

188

HIPLESS

OR HOBBLE SKIRTS

ONE

IN

PIECE.

U1AGR.AM 96

MEASURES. Length Side

inches

Waist

-25

Hip

41 inches

433/2

Length Bacl<

45 inches

42

Length Front

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw Hne A

A

C

to

4

is

inches.

A

Square over

We

F and C

to

to

E

inches '> of

12J{>

waist measure

pkis

5 inches are taken out

between the darts

K

C

to

F

to I

F

Draw

in

this

case

skirl.

with E. j^ inch.

is is

inches,

waist Hne.

at

allow these 5 inches in order to have less sweep at the bottom of

Connect

-S

inches.

17^/2

These

B.

J4 inch.

K

waist line from

to

Measure down from waist Measure hip from

Draw back

line

DG

from

K

Front length from

I.

6 inches to dotted line

line

ZOyz inches,

G

through

I

G.

of hip measure.

j<2

H

to

D

45 inches.

42 inches.

to B,

Side length, 433-^ inches, and shape bottom as shown.

This completes the box for hipless

From

front Hne

hip Hne

(mi

skirts.

measure from

I)

to

T

j!-4 inches.

T

to

S 6j^ inches; S

inches.

At waist

line

K

Measure from

X

is

3 inches,

X

to

to

P

34 inch,

X

to (J

to

X

Shape dart from V -Measure from

W

to

Shape dart from S -Measure from

Y

to

U

is

Y

to

P and V

to

N

to 1.

I34 inches

N 1

to

and S inch,

Y

to

VV

10

and

\\

M.

to J

L and U

This completes the hipless

skirt.

}i

inches, incli.

.\

and VV to

V"

( ),

1

inch.

53^ inches.

Shape dart through U

is

to J.

to

M

1

Hi

inches.

to is

Y

is

6 inches.

5 inches.

to

R

63/2


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 96

189


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

190

EMPIRE SKIRT. Diagram^/

MEASURES. \\ aisi

41

.__

Length hroul Length Hack

inches inches

-'3

-

ilip

Length Side

4.^'..

4.i

ihcIk'.-

47 inchcinches

l\s'J4-;ii;ti()XS.

hue

)ra\\

1

A

C

-\,

11.

4 inches. Si|uare over from .\ lu to

is

case l7'/2 inches. with E. Connect

1'

ami These

Ici

(

1'..

li'j inches. taken

3 inches are

'

waisl measure iilu> hetween darts at waist

of

j

(JUt

.^

inches,

ni

thi>

line!

I*"

C

to

K

F

to

I

is

is

'

_>

-5/4

inch.

of an inch.

Draw

waist Hne K, L Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. .Measure hip, D. G. which is 20' 2 inches. '2 of hip measure. Til make skirt Empire, measure up from the natural waist line, K. I, _' inches, which gi\es us ])oints Z and O. Lonnect Z to O. Xow draw a hne from O through 1, ii hi 11. A7 inches, length of skirl in hack. The front length from Z to H. 44 inches.

Side length, 45J/2 inches. This completes the ijox of lunjiire .Skirt. From front D to T on hi]) is 3',j inches. T to S is Gyi inches. S Id R is 6y.i inches. (

)n

natural waist hne

Draw

a line

from

T

K

to

X

is

through

.3

X

niches,

X

to

W

is

to Enipn-e waist

(1

inches,

W

and

to

\'

is

n inches.

line.

'4 inch. At natural waisl line measure from X to 1' '4 inch and X to inch, and shape At top of waist line measure from 8 to ') % inch and from S to 7, shown. to Em|)ire waist line. Draw a line from S through ; inch to M. From \\" measure V4 inch to .\ and from to 4, is.\s inch. to 6, is -Vs inch, and from .\t top of waist line measure from Shape dart as shown. Draw a line from R through \ to luiijiire waist line. Measure from Y to L s,s inch and from ^' to J S-s inch. At top of waist line measure from 2 to 3. ' j inch and 2 to T, is '/. inch. (

)

,'

W

W

.'i

Y

to

U

is

,s

J

.3

5 inches.

.Sha])e dart as

shown.

_

<lari

as


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Df.\(.u.\M

97

191


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

192

HOBBLE SKIRT WITH SIDE PLEAT Diagram 98

MEASURES. Waist

25 inches

Front, length

40 inches

Hip

41 inches

Right, length

42 inches

Back, length

43 inches

INSTRUCTIONS

Follow same instruction as given 9

is

the center of

from 9 up

B H.

Draw

to 3-15 inches,

from 9 over

to

line

from

in

diagram 99, Page 194, with exception,

W.

to 9.

To form

bottom

inverted pleat in the side, measure

from 3 over to 4-5-2-1-li inches to each point.

10-11-8-7-2 inches to each point.

at

This completes

skirt.

At bottom, measure


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 98

193


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

194

HOBBLE SKIRT

j

Diagram 99

MEASURES. Waist

25 inches

Front, length

40 inches

Hip

41 inches

Right, length

42 inches

Back, length

43 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

A

a line

C

to

A — B.

4 inches.

is

S.-juare over.

A

to

F and C

These

to

3 inches

have

to

E

are taken out between the dart at waist

sweep

less

Connect

F

with E.

K

is

^

G F

to to

I is

Draw

M

12>4 inches, ^j of waist measure plus 5 inches,

is

at the

K

Measure hip from line hip,

line

inches.

allow these 5 inches

skirt.

inch. to

I.

Measure down from waist

Draw

We

17',-2

inch.

waist line

At front

Dottom of

line.

case

in this

from 2

line

6 inches

to dotted line

D—G, 20J^ inches. J4 of from D to F is 4 inches, B through T to x. X to P is

D— G.

hip measure, 41 inches. to 2 is 6 inches at bottom. >'2

inch and x to

O

is

>4 inch.

Shape dart as shown. .^t

back on

hip,

Square over 3

Y

to

L

is i/i

G

to

R

to

1,

draw

Y

inch.

3 inches at bottom, 3to

is

from

line

to J

^

is

1

is

Ayi inches.

3 to

H

through R to Y.

1

inch.

Shape as shown.

Take the center Take

Draw

of

R and T

—O

the center of

L

from S

to

line

W.

Measure up from bottom 12 inches

from 2

at

on

hip.

waist

W

to

skirt to

which gives us point

line,

N

is

S.

which gives us point \^^ D'4 inches.

Q.

to Z.

12 inch cut through the side panel as shown,

W

to

M

is

l;4 inches.

is

5 inches.

in

ordci


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 99

195


L

1

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMSN.

96

PANTALOON

SKIRT.

Diagram 100

MEASURES. Waist

-

Hip

IS inclies

Length Front

41 inches

Length Side

Length Back

45

42

inches

43>..

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw hne A B. to C is 4 inches. Square over A to F and C

A

to

E

12>2 inches, >2 of waist measure phis

5

indies, in this case

inches.

These 5 inches are taken out Connect F" with E.

C to K is 3^2 inch. F to I is -yi inch. Draw waist hne K

O

L

to

3^ the distance between From P to VV is /2 inch. Draw new waist line from is

at the

waist hne, between the dart and at center back.

K—

K

througii

W

to

1.

K. W. inches to dotted D G is 20J/2 inches, ".^ of hip measure. Draw back line from I through G to H, 45 inches. Side length, 43/2 inches. Front length, 42 inches. Shape bottom as shown. This completes bo.x.

Measure down from new waist

line

line

front, from K down to 14 is 14yj inches. Square over from 14, 6>4 inches to 11. .At

14 to 12

is

23/ inches.

At bottom, from B to 10 .Shape to]) as shown. .\t

l)Ottom, 7

Draw

is

1/2

is

the distance l)et\\een

from 7 up to W. At waist line, measure from line

W to N W to M

6y2 inches.

W down to

234 inches. is Zyi inches. From S to U. 4 inches. From S to T, 4 inches. At bottom, 7 to 8 is 6 inches. 7 to 6 is 6 inches, draw line. Shape top gores as shown. At center back on waist line I to .At

G

to

Z

S, 16>4

inches for pleat.

X

is

3S inch.

34 inch.

is

From I measure down Square over from 3 to is

H.

is

hip to

3 to 2

I!

to 3, IH'/j inches. 1,

8 inches.

234 inches.

At bottom From H to 4 is 8 inches, draw line. Shape top as shown. The front and back panels arc cut separate from

K

O

tjic

skirt.

3 inches. At bottom, B to 9 is 6 inches At back. to is 3 inches. At bottom. to 5 is 6 inches. Shape as shown. Center front and back panels are cut on the fold of material.

X

H

to

Y

is

D

G.

17'/.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN,

Diagram 100

197


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

198

CIRCULAR SKIRT. Diagram

101

MEASURES. Waist

25 inches

Leng-th Front

42

inclies

Hip

42 inches

Length Side

43'/2

inches

Length Back

45

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

A

C

to

A

a line is

B.

4 inches.

A

Square over from

F

Connect to

K

is

1

F

to

I

is

3 inches.

straight

Q

R

1^

Draw new

K

hne connecting

the center of is

S'/^

is

inches.

i)()int

U.

inches.

K

waist line from

Measure hip

D

Draw

from

a line

with L

K, which gives us

I

through

Measure down from new waist

The

E

to

inch.

Take to

F and C

with E.

C

D^aW

to

to G,

front length

I

which

is

line

21

through

G

to

K

B

is

from

to

R

to

6 inches

1.

to dotted line

inches, /> of hip

H

D

G.

measure.

45 inches, the length of skirt

in back.

42 inches.

Side length, 43j/^ inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows.

To make

inverted pleat at the center back, go out at waist line from

from

N

to

At the bottom go out from

To form

I

to

N

2 inches and 2 inches

M.

H

to

L

5 inches

inverted pleat, take up on line

This completes the circular

skirt.

I

H

and

L

to J 5 inches.

and meet

at center

back

line

M

J.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

lul

199


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

200

THREE-GORE SKIRT. Diagram

102

MEASURES. 25 inches

Waist

Hip

42

Length

Draw hne A

A

C

to

inches

Length Front

42

Length Side

iSyi inches

A5

l!ack

inches

B.

4 inches.

is

Square over

A

F and C

to

to

E

K

to

12'/2 inches, whicli

is

'/j

of

waist measnrc phis

this case 14 inches.

Connect

F

with E.

From C

to

K

F

to I

Draw Take

is

is

1^

inch.

1

inches.

a straight

hne from

K

the center of

and

1.

from

I.

Shape new waist hne fnim

through

1\.

Draw

D

a line

G, which

R

from

through

I

K

Front length from

B

to

At the bottom B

Draw

a line

to

from

V

G

inches to dotted line

O

Shape gore from P

to

S

is

R

to

is

to II, 4-5 inches, length

is

is

R

to

X

7 inches.

T

to L.

an inch and L

J4 of

T and O

Shape dart from

N

to

1

of skirt in back.

.-kirt.

to

to T.

T

to G.

4 inches.

Measure from

G.

3 inches.

about yi the distance from

S

D

42 inches.

is

through

to

Measure from L

T

to \'

inch to

L

to

This completes the box for a three gore

D

j

and shape bottom as diagram shows.

.Side length, 43J/2 inches,

[Moni gore at hip

'

inches, JX of hip measure.

21

is

20 measure down

this point

Measure down from new waist hne Measure

inches

inch and

S and

M

This completes the three gore

R

to .M

to S. skirt.

1

inch.

F

J/^

of an inch.

iv.

1/j

indies,

in


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 102

201


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

202

FIVE-GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT. Diagram 10^

MEASURES. --•

Waist Measure--

Hip

inches

Measure

Length

42

iiiclies

42 inches

-

INSTRUCTIONS. 1

Follow

the h\e-gore skirl exacth' as described in the

following lesson, diagram, 104, page

201^. 2.

C

to

C

to

y L

IS

is

,',4

16 inches, or ji of 21 inches, 'j of hip measure plus '4 inch.

Flounce from

L

H

as a pivcjt,

Using

Q

inches.

Inp measure, lU'j

to j

in

hack

is

inches,

1(>

sweep top of flounce

as a pivot,

sweep curve B

and

in

front,

R

to

K

K — R.

1.

1

is

from

IJ

to

K, 8 inches.

measures the same as

straight through

R

to y.

K

L'sing

to j.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

us

Diagram

10 <

s

203


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

204

GORE

FIVE *

Diagram

SKIRT. 104

MEASURES. Waist

25 inches

Length

liip

42 inches

Length Side

Lengtli

l'"rnnt

47

llacU

43

inches

45>'2

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. i'ollnw

same instructions for

l:)Ox

as given for three gore skirt in diagram 102, pagelOP, witli the This gore is ol)tained by taking 16 the (hstance from \' to

exception of an extra gore. H, which gives us point U.

Take

,!/>

the distance

Xow draw

a line

Measure from

R

Measure from R

from

from to

N

I' 1

to AI

This completes the

fi\'e

1

T

to

G

on

hip.

which gives us point

S.

through S to R.

inch. inch,

gored

''â‚Ź

and

sliape gore

skirt.

from

N

to

.S

;md

M

to

J.7

S as diagram sliows.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 104

205


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

206

SEVEN GORE SKIRT. DlAGR,\M 105

1'

MEASURES. Waist

25 inches

Length Front

42

Hip

42 inches

Length Side

43>4 inches

Length Back

Draw

A

C

to

A

line

B.

A

Square over from

F and C

to E, 12y, inches, Yi of waist measure plus 4 inches, in These 4 inches are taken out between the darts as at top of waist

to

case 16J/2 inches.

C !

F

to

K

is

to

I

is

Draw

1

inch.

1^

inches.

Measure down from

Draw

hip,

line

D

to G,

from

I

Front length from

K

from

straight line

Measure

thi,--

line.

with E.

the center of K,

Take

inches

4 inches.

is

Connect

45

inches

L

to

go down

I,

and draw, new waist

'^ incii

ne:w waist line 6 inches to dotted line

which

K

B

to

to

is

to G.

21 inches, '6 oi hip measure.

is

G

through

D

line.

H, 45 inches, the length of

skirt

in

back.

42 inches.

Side length, 43>2 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows.

This completes the box for a seven gore foundation. All skirts with

The

B

front gore at hip,

to 3 at bottom

From

Now .-\t

more than seven gores require the same foundation.

this

line ÂĽ%

is

5

D

to T,

Draw

inches.

measure inch

take the distance from us points S and R.

T

3 inches.

is

a line

to

3 to

H

a line from 2 through S to waist

From

this line

From

1

inch to

N

and

and divide equally

This completes the seven gore

skirt.

to T,

and

O

to T.

each, which gives

into 3 gores of 12 inches each,

which

line. 1

Inch to

M, and shape gore from

From this a line through R to waist line. K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R.

draw

to

to waist line.

O and 34 inch to P, and shape gore from P G and divide equally into 3 gores of 6 inches

Draw

1

T

to

bottom take the distance from gives us points 1 and 2.

measure

from 3 through

line

N

measure ^s inch

to to

M to S. and % inch

S and

L


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

105

207


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

208

GORE

NINE

SKIRT.

Diagram 106

MEASURES. \\'aist

25 inches

Length Front

4,^

Hip

42 inches

Length Side

45>2 inches

Length Back

47

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. same instructions for box

P'ollow

The front gore

B

to

Draw

4

at

bottom

is

D

to T.

page lOh.

254 inches.

is

T

to waist hne.

and shape gore from P

to

T

l''rom this line

and

()

measure

>4

inch to

P and

^4

inch

to T.

the distance from T to G and divide equally into 4 gores of 43/2 inches each, which gives us points S, R and O.

At bottom take

the same distance from 4 which gives us jioints 3, 2 ami 1.

Draw

10.^,

6 inches.

a line from 4 through to O,

Take

at hip.

diagram

as given in

a line to

from

a line

From

this line

Draw

a line from 1,

from 2 thr(jugh R

1

through

O

This completes the nine gore

M

S and

this line

into 4 gores of

measure

s,s

C)-54

inch to

inches each,

N and

'^.s

inch

to S.

to waist line.

measure rn inch

and shape gore from

to

and divide equally

From

3 through S to waist line.

M, and shape gore from N

Draw

to II

to

L and

inch to K, and shape gore from

.\s

From

to waist line. J

to

skirt.

O

and

I

to

O.

this line

measure

',2

L

to

inch to

R J,

and 'j

K

to R.

inch to


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 106

209


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

210

ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE. Diagram

107,..'

MEASURES. Waist Hip

3*+

-

Length Front Length Side

inches

48 inches

Length Back

45

42

inches inches

433/1

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

A

to

a Hne

C

is

4

A

B.

inches.

Square over from A to F and C to E, 17 inches, y2 of waist measure plus 3 inches These 3 inches are taken out between the darts at waist hne. case 20 inches. Connect F with E. Draw a straight line from C to F. Take the center from C F, go down >4 inch and draw a new waist hne. Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. Measure hip, D, G, which is 24 inches, >2 of hip measure. Draw a line from F through G to H. 45 inches, the lengtli of skirt in hack. Side length, 43>4 inches. Front length from C to B is 42 inches. Shape bottom as diagram shows. Measure down from C to 5 14 inches, which is 1-3 length of skirt, 42 inches. of an inch. Measure from 5 to 6, Draw a new front line from B through 6 to X, the distance from C to the front line is inch in this case, and measure up the same distance to X. Draw a straight line X to V, which is eased in over the fullest part of the stomach.

;

in

this

—

^

The

,

D to Y, is iVi inches. 6 inches. 5 through to Y to waist line of an inch to \5. and shape gore from

front gore at

B to 5 at bottom Draw a line from

p/s

of an

liip,

is

Y

from

;

\

to

this line

Y

and

U

measure

'4

of an inch to

\"

and 34

to Y.

G

and divide equally into 5 gores, 4 inches each, which gives u.s to points T, S, R and Q. .\\. the bottom take the distance from 5 to H, anr' divide equally into 5 gores of 8 inches each, give us points 4, 3, 2 and 1. Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. From this line measure '/ of an inch to P and Y^ to T. of an inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and Draw a line from 3 through S to -waist line, from this line measure >4 of an inch to N and Yz of to S. to S and an inch to M, and shape gore from Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure J/, inch to L and Y2 inch to K.

Take the distance from

O

M

N

Shape gore from L to R and K to R. line from 1 through O to waist this line measure l^ of an inch and I to Q.

Draw From

This completes the 11 gore

line.

to T

and

skirt, for a figure

V^ of an inch to

I,

with a high stomach.

and shape gore from

J to

O


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 107

211


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR

212

WOM:i:N.

ELEVEN GORE FLARE. Diagram 108

MEASURES. Waist

25 inches

Length Front

43

inches

Hip

42 inches

Length Side

45J-4

inches

Length Back

47

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box as given

D

Front gore

at hip,

B

6 inches.

to 15

Draw

is

to

Y

to

G

15 to

a line from 9 through S to waist

From

this line

Draw

and divide equallv

I,

Draw

measure

V

N

5^ inch to

a line from 3 through

From

O

into S gores,

yi inch to

this line

measure

which gives us points

Yb inch to

P and

^

inch

to T.

line.

%

and

'^ch to

M, and shape gore from

N

Q

from

line,

K

to

S and from

to waist line,

and shape gore from J

to

O

and

this line

measure

this line

measure Y& inch

J/ inch to L, Y2 inch to

I to

from Q.

to J

the flare on this skirt go down from waist line 12 inches on each gore. front gore go out 1 inch from 15 io 14.

The second gore

2 inches

from 15

to 16,

and

third gore 2 inches

and 9 to

8.

The

fourth gore 2 inches from 9 to 10 and G to

5.

Fifth gore 2 inches from 6 to

Trace out gores

U

No. 2 from

1,

2 and

3,

and 3

7,

Sixth gore 2 inches from 3 to

No.

to 13,

4, 1

At the bottom

U

to

1

Y

H.

to

5

inches for the flare

to 16, across

bottom

to 11,

up

down to

T

center.

and P, over

at waist line.

M

to S, 10 across

bottom to

No. 3 from I Q 4 over bottom to H, up and over to waist line to I.

The other

Y& inch to

to 2.

and from

from

and

12 to 11.

The

from 12

K,

to R.

To add

to

and

to S.

a line from 6 through R to waist and shape gore from L to R and

I,

inch to

ar d divide equally into 5 gores of ^Yz inches each, which gives

a line from 12 through T to waist hne. to O, and shape gores from P to T and

M

^

and Q.

At bottom take the distance from 12, 9, 6 and 3.

Draw

page 20U

a line from 15 through Y to waist line, from this line go out U, and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y.

R

Draw

105,

Y, 3 inches.

the distance from us points T, S,

Take

diagram

in

5

up

to

G

tc

R. L, and over to

and

I,

go

in

Ya-

M

inch to

to waist line. I at

the center back

lint

three remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched one after the other.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 108

213


>

214

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

THIRTEEN GORE PLEATED SKIRT Diagram 109

MEASURES. Waist

25 inches

Length Front

Hip

42 inches

Length Side

Length Back

45

43

inches

45^2 inches inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20u Front gore at hip, D to Z, is 3 inches. Ij to 17 at bottom is inches. Draw a line from 17 through Z to waist line. From this line measure '/i inch to X and ;,4 inch to W, and shape gore from X to Z and to Z. Now take the distance from Z to G and divide equally into 6 gores of 2f4 inches each, which gives us points Y, T, S. R and g. At the bottom take the distance from 7 to Fl and divide equally into b gores 7^4 inches each, which gives us points 14, 11, 8, 5 and 2. Now draw a line from 14 through Y to waist line. From this line measure :Ks of an inch to V and -/fi of an inch to I', and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y. iJraw a line from 11 through T to waist line; from this line measure 'j inch to 1' and inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T. Draw a line from 8 tlirough S to waist line. From this line measure ;>ii of an inch to .\ and j/g, of an inch to M. and shape gore from N to S and to S. Draw a line from 5 through R to waist line. From this line measure -ji of an inch to L and Vn of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. Draw a line from 2 through O to waist line. From this line measure J4 '"^-h to [ and V4 inch to I, and shape gore from J to O and I to O. To make pleats in skirt, measure down from waist line any depth desired, in this case 18 inches down on front gore and 1 inch higher on each gore to the back. To make the pleats in skirt, measure from the straight line 1 inch to 30 and 1 inch to 29. From straight line 1 inch to 28 and 1 inch to 27. |_' From straight line I inch to 26 and 1 inch to 25. From straight line 1 inch to 24 and 1 inch to 23.1 I'Vom straight line 1 inch to 22 and 1 inch to 21. From straight line 1 inch to 20 and 1 inch to 19. At the bottom of skirt measure 2 inches at the first gore from 17 to 16. second gore 2 inches from 17 to 18 and 2 inches from 14 to 13, third gore 2 inches from 14 to 15 and 2 inches from 11 to 10, fourth gore 2 inches from 11 to 12 and 2 inches from 8 to 7, fifth gore 2 inches from 8 to 9, 2 inches from 5 to 4, sixth gore 2 inches from 2 to 3. To trace out gores 1. 2 and 3. .\o, 1 from \V to Z to straight line over to 30, down to 18, across bottom to 13, and up to 27. over to straight line up to Y and V, across waist line to W. No. 2 from O to T, down straight line, over to 26, down to 12, across the bottom to 7, up to 23 to straight line, up to S, to N, over to waist line to O. No. 3 from K R to straight line over to 22. down to 6, across bottom to 1, up to 19, over to straight line, up to O to J, across waist line to K. The other four remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched on after the other. This completes the 13 gore pleated skirt.

W

'

M

..


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

1

09

215


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

216

GORE

FIFTEEN

Diagram

1

SKIRT.

10

MEASURES. Length Front Length Side

25 inches 42 inches

Waist Hip

Length Back

43

inches

ASyi inches inches

.....47

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box as given

The front gore at hip, B to 7 at bottom is 6

Draw From

3 to T, inches.

is

diagram

in

105,

page 20L)

3 inches.

a line from 7 through 3 to waist line. measure 54 of an inch to 2. ^4 of an inch to 1, and shape gore from 2 to 3 and Now take the distance from 3 to G, and divide equally into 7 gores of 25<2 inches 1 to 3. and Q. each, which gives us points Z, Y, T, S, and divide equally into 7 gores of 5 inches each, Take the distance at the bottom from 7 to which gives us points 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 ana 1. Draw a line from 6 through Z to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch to X, }i of to Z and from to Z. an inch to W, and shape gore from Draw a line from 5 through T to waist line. and Vz inch to U, and shape gores from V to Y and U From this line measure ^2 inch to this line

R

H

X

W

V

to Y. a line

from 4 through T to waist line. measure yi inch to P and Vj inch to O. Shape gore from P to T and O to T. Draw a line from 3 through S to waist linÂŤ_ From this line measure -Is of an inch to N and fi of an inch to M. to S. Shape gore from N to S and Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. Draw a line from 1 through O to waist line. From this line measure ^4 of an inch inch to L Shape gore from J to Q and Q to L

Draw From

this line

M

This completes the 15 gore

skirt.

to

L and

yi

and

yi

to J


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 110

217



Riding Habits

and Breeches


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

220

SAFETY RIDING SKIRT. Diagram

ill

MEASURES. Hip Waist

:

42 inches

Length

42 inches

25 inches

Side

43 inches

Back

44 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Front part, draw

Square over on Hne

A

A—B

is 3^4 inches; inches to 7 inches; to 3

to 12

;

A — B,

line

A A

A

41J4 inches.

C

to

49 inches.

A

is 5 inches; to 10 is 5M inches; A to 9 is 7 inches; A to 8 is 8 9y2 inches A to 9 is 14^/1 inches A to 5 is 29^ inches A to 4 is 333/2 35>^ inches; A to 2 is 39 inches; A to 1 is 4I>^ inches; to C is 49

to 11

is

;

;

;

A

is

inches.

Square downon

all

the given points.

12 to 13 is Yi inch; 11 to 14 is 1^4 inches; 10 to 15 is 2 inches; 9 to 16 is 2>4 inches; 8 to 17 is 2^4 inches; 7 to 18 is inches; 5 to 31 is 7^)4 inches; 4 to 30 is 5^4 inches; 3 to 29 is 6j^ inches; to 35 is 19 inches. 2 to 34 is 16 inches; 1 to 28 is 1>4 inches; C to 17 is 25 inches;

2%

D

to

B

Connect

B

to 25

is

is

41)4 inches.

—D.

D

3 inches

;

to

A

26

is

22

to

8 inches. is

Liii^.ii:i«r^

5>4 inches

;

A

to 23

is 7>34

inches

;

A

to

24

is

11 inches.

Square over the given points. 22 to 36

is

At waist

line,

Draw

3|4 inches; 23 to 20

from 14

to 15

1

to 19, 21 inches,

]/>

7^2 inches.

inch for dart.

waist line from 13 through

Measure down from waist

Make

is

is

all

points to

line 6 inches to dotted line for hip. of hip measure.

a buttonhole at point 28; a loop at 29

Between points 34

6.

—35 make a loop

;

a strap at point 31, 14 inches long,

line

from 13—14

1

line

from 21

inch wide.

for foot to rest.

Place pocket on left side front, any desired length or shape. the opening.

Draw

Measure dotted

The heavy

line in

pocket indicates

— 15—16—17—18—6—19—31—30—29—28—27—26—25—24—21—13.

This completes skirt shown

in

illustration.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

111

221


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

222

BACK PART OF '-"

SKIRT.

Diagram 111

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

A — B,

line

34-)4 inches.

Square down over on

A

to

A A A A

to i7

A A

to 52

A A A A

A— B

46 inches to C.

lYz inches.

is

]

line

to 36

5^ is 7%

to 35

is

10 inches.

to 34

is

11

is

\2y2 inches.

is

to 31

is

to 29

is

inches. inches.

inches.

133/2 inches.

17 inches. .

28

is

26>4 inches.

to 27

is

39/2 inches.

to

to

C

is

i

46 inches.

Square over on these given points. 1

to 2 is

434 inches.

i7 to 39

36 to 4

is

10^

inches, to 38

is

15 inches, to 14

is

1434 inches, 35 to 5

is

9 inches, 34 to8

is

is

18'4 inches; 15 to 17

is

15 inches, 32 to 6

11%

is

2734 inches. inches, 31

to 7

103^ inches, 29 to 30 is Yi inch, 28 to 2i is 24'/, inches. 27 to 24 is 22 inches, C to 25 is 11)4 inches, C to 26 is 4 inches, A to 10 is 16 inches, A to 11 is 18 inches, A to 12 is 19 inches. A to 16 is 2434 inches, A to 18 is 303^2 inches, to B is 3414 inches.

is

A

Square down 18 -Square

From

down B

11

to 13

to 20, 18 inches. to 19, 14 inches.

is

3'!'

Shape dart from

Draw

inch, 12 to 15

15 to 14,

13 to

-^.s

inch.

14.

— —

1.^ waist line from 16 13 to 10. for hip. Measure dotted line. 17

Measure down from waist

19,

IO34 inches, J4 of

For other part of skirt shape waist line from 2 to 6 inches. For hip, measure dotted line 3 to straight line from 20 to 2i.

From 20 Shape

to 22

skirt

is

4 inches, 22 to 21

from

is

37. 33,

6 inches to dotted measure.

line

li'P

Measure down from waist IO34

inches,

;4

of

to dotted line Draw hip measure.

334 inches.

37—33—30—28—26—25—24—23—21—20—19—17—16—15—13—10—9

—8—7—5—6-4—3—2. At point 19 ease

in

]/>

inch between notches.

Place button at back of skirt 3 inches from

5.

line

This completes the back part of

skirt.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

1

12

223



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

SAFETY RIDING HABITS

SHOWING THE DIFFERENT POSITIONS

225


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

226

RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE). FRONT PART. Diagram

11}

MEASURES. 25

Waist

Hips

inches

43 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

lines

1

—3

and

1

to 4

is

ly^ inches,

1

to 7

is

20 inches,

Square points 4 to 9

is

2.

to 6

1

to 5

1

4, 6, 8,

8 inches,

1

to 8 is 12J^

il inches,

1

to 3

is

is

7 and

Square down from 32 to

line

7^

is

TYi inches, 7 to 12

Connect 3 with 31, 31

on

5

inches, 6 to 10

is 2^/2

8 to 11

1

is

1

inches.

46J^ inches.

is

3.

inches, 6 to 13

is

8J^ inches.

6^4 inches, 5 to 31

is

47 inches.

17 inches.

32,

Zl, 3^^ inches.

Draft bottom line from 3 to 23, to

31.

1

to 15

is

12 inches,

1

to 16

is

12>j inches,

1

to 19 is 213^2

1

to

20

is

25 inches,

1

to 21

is

30>4 inches,

1

to 2

Now

square points

15 to 14

2 to 25

Now

is

16,

19,

734 inches, 16 to 17

534 inches, 2 to 26

21 and 2 on line is

is 6-'4

square points 25, 26, 30 and

25 to 24

Now

is

15,

is

draft

2Y\ inches, 26 to 27

is

is

inches, 2 to

29 on line 2 1

'

4

30

is

2.

is

is

is 3j/2

inches.

10>< inches.

29.

and back,

This finishes our front part.

XIV^ inches, 21 to 22

9 inches, 2 to 29

inches, 30 to 21

3—5—7—9—10^11—13—14—18 pocket.

4 inches, 19 to 18

to 31. 11 to 12

34-J4 inches.

is 1

inches.

is

634 inches, 29 to 28

is

5>2 inches.

17—20—22—23—24—27—28—30 down


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

227

Yront part

'-i^

^32

33

DiAGRAMll)


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMZN.

228

RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE), BACK PART. Diagram 1 14

INSTRUCTIONS. For back part draw

A

to

F

is

9 inches,

Square points F, E,

F

to

D

to

C

to

N R

W

to

D

A—C

E

is

A— B. A line A — C.

and

15^

and C on

inches,

Now

15 J/2 inches, F to Q is 25 inches, E to I 35j4 inches, D to S is 36% inches, D to is 44>4 inches, C to V is 45^/2 inches.

G

to

P

is

25^

is

U

to

6-j4

inches,

A

to

C

is

48 inches.

10 inches. is

49i/2 inches.

inches.

line

T— S— Y.

to

D

is

W down X X, Y, C. connect X—V— U—T, X— T

Draft

to

is

Square point Draft bottom

A A

lines

A

A

K

is

38 inches.

A

3 inches, is 6j4 inches, to L is 10j4 inches. to to B is 22>2 inches. 1834 inches, Square points G, K, L and P on line B. to J is 5 inches, L to is 1% inches, P is -54 inch. to is 7 inches, draft down to Y. If the width of the material allows to put the back part in one piece, leave out dotted line.

G H Now

is

A

is

A—

M C— D— F— H— I—J—M— N—O— B—Q— R K

—O


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

Diagram 114

229


5

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

230

DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT Diagram

1 1

MEASURES. Waist measure

25 inches

Lengtii

40 inches

Hip measure

44 inches

Rise

12 inches

INSTRUCTIONS.

1.

Draw hne

A— B.

.\

t(.)

C

is

!/4

.\

lo ])

is

waist measure. 2? niciies.

I)

to

is

r.

hip measure,

full

I'se

2.

C

inches.

length. 40 inches.

L'se .\ as a pivot

1)

11

and sweeji

H

to

L and

as a pivot and sweep from

1)

it

inches below

and from F

to J

hi|))

|)oint

V.

do same

to

.\1.

to S.

to E is waist measure plus 3 inches: namely. l.\'/j inches. The o inches o\er are taken out. 1 inch each at the darts 1 12. Darts must he equally apart from 10 and 11 8, 9 I' to \3, and are 1 inch aljove the hip line.

Draw line C through E to G, giving point 13. 13 is now exactly the liij) measure from F. This diagram shows two inverted plaits; one in front and tiie other in liack. Make plaits K L and (> inches at bottom R P O, as dotted line shows: the 2 inches on top D

— —

same 3.

(

L

— —

in back.

N

is Rise measure 12 inches: same with J to T in back: to L' to \' is 6 '4 inches. '4 waist measure: yi waist measure. \nect and W.

J— S— T—

.\

to

O

is 4'/4

inches, 1/6 of waist

measure

The sweep at bottom must be taken 40 more in back.

:

O

inches

to

X

to

T

W

to is

U

is

iyi inches.

7 inches.

— —

Con-

is fi inches. Connect L M O to R. around from waist line, allowing 1 inch

R

all

from


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

231

®A

\<P

^O 12

Diagram

1

1


;

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

232

RIDING BREECHES. Diagram 116

MEASURES. Hip Rise

25

Knee

42

Small of Knee

inches inches ll-M inches inches 30

Waist -

Inseam

16 inches inches 14 14>^ inches 10 inches

Calf

Angle

FOREPART. From A square out and down. to C is 11-34 inches, rise measure. C to E is Yi of inseam less 1 inch, 14

A

E

K

inches.

1 inches, small of knee. K to F is 4 inches for calf. C to B is full insteam, 30 inches. more or C to P is 1/3 of Y/i, hip, 103^ inches, in this case 3^/2 inches. This point changes less, according to larger or smaller sizes. Square over all given points. is 3-4 of hip, 10>2 inches. C to Square up point D to S and down to Al. This completes the box. This point changes y% more or less, according to On hip, to V is 3^ inch, 1/3 of hip. to

is

^

D

D

larger or smaller sizes. D. the distance of is D. is >2 the distance of to S, which locates point T. Draw line from Measure over from S to 28, 34 of waist measure plus

W

V

^

W

Q

Q

S

R

to

is

1

C f

to to

inches are taken out

1 ;/>

inch.

from R through 28 to 17. 17 is 1 inch from point A. Raise waist line from R to S, 28 to 20, 1^2 Shape dart from 25 to 15—14—24—13—14.

Draw

This

V^ inches.

1

13—15.

the dart between

in

line

H

is

inches.

44 inch,

26 is ^2 inch L to 27 is 1 inch 27 to X is 634 inches 7 to Z ;

;

:

Shape forepart from At top, from S R

8 to 7 is y^, inch 6^4 inches 6 to

is

;

20—28— P— H— I—X— Z— 1.

— — T— —26— 27—7— \'

M

:

1

to

is

6

is

2 inches

;

26

to

1

is

7 inches

654 inches.

This completes the forepart.

6.

BACK PART. Draw Draw

line line

from U through from 16 to 17,

T and 83-2

up.

square on an angle to 17. inches more than ;4 of waist measure.

I'lace

inches, 2>2

These 2/^ inches are taken out between 19 20. Raise from 17 to 18, 16 to 29, 1>4 inches, and shape dart from

V

to

W

is

2 inches, J to

Measure 26

to

Y

1,7 inches.

is

^

inch,

C

to 12

is

23—20—21—22—19—21.

2 inches.

Place the 7 inches on 26.

Measure over

to 10, 16 inches

knee meas-

ure.

Measure over to 9. 14 inches, Mea.sure from 27 to X 6 inches, and place the 6 inches on 27. small of knee. Measure 7 to Z 6V2 inches. Place the 634 inches on 7, and measure over to O HK- inches for calf.

From 6

to

1

is

5,4 inches.

Place the 5 '4 inches are taken out between 2 and 3. These 2 inches on 6. Measure over to N, 12 inches, 2 inches

more than ankle measure.

Shape as shown. Point 4 is 1/^ inches below calf. Shape back part from 18— 17— 12— 10—9—O—N. 27. At top, from 29— 16— For under lap on back part 9 to 8, N to 5 is 1 3/2 mches.

T— W— Y—

This completes diagram.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

DiAGRA.M

1

16

233


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

234

PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS CHILDREN Sizes


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS MISSES AND JUNIORS Sizes

235


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

236

FIRST LESSON. EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. DiACRA.M

119

MEASURES. Bust

28^2

inclies

Shoulder Height Front

Waist

26^/2

inches

Shoulder Height Back

Hip

32

inches

Neck Height of Waist

Across Chest

12

inches

Across

Neck

13

inches

Shoulder

Back

—6 6^ — Ayi 5>^ — 11^ 8

13^/2

inches

inches inches

11

4^

Sleeve

inches

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Uraw

A — B.

A

.\ to E is 11 j^ inches, length of 5^4 inches, neck height in back. F to B is inches, second hip. Square over is 4 inches, first hip. C E F B on line A ^B. C to D is 3/2 of bust, 14 '4 inches plus 3 inches allowed for In a three piece coat we allow 3 inches for seams, and in a two seams, 1/34 inches. piece coat we allow 2 inches for seams.

line

waist in back.

— — —

U

to

Q is

is ]4,

to

E

C

is

to

F

-I

D

to

G

C

to

I

G— H— I

on

>2 inch allowed for breathing. of bust measure. 2]4, inches.

Square up and down D.

Square up

is is

line

'4 of bust 5^/2

C

inches,

—D.

measure, 4^4 inches. V2 of back measure.

G

to

H


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

237

A

D

a

m^

G

#

#

#

4f>

4^

E

4t)-

B

# Diagram 119


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

238

SECOND LESSON. EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. Diagram 120

MEASURES. Bust

28J/2

inches

Shoulder Height Front

Waist

26^

inches

Shoulder Height Back

Hip

32

inches

Neck Height and

Across Chest

12

inches

Across Back

Neck

13

inches

Shoulder

to

—6 6)4 — 4^ — 11% 8

Waist

...5J^

11

inches inches inches inches

4)4 inches

Sleeve

133^2

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. For box follow instructions as given

C

Y

to

Y

to

2 inches

is

O

is

6^

;

C

to

P

Draft back neck,

G

H

to

X

is

is

inches, second rhoulder height back.

R

is

O — S,

line

I.

R

to

over A-

S

is

'/z

—P

on

line

A — B.

inch.

4-j4 inches.

to 3 is 6 inches,

8 inches,

2 inches.

found crossing

.'square

A —O.

Draft back shoulder, front.

First l^esson.

inches, first shoulder height back,

In squaring over P. point

At

is 4j/<

in

first

second shoulder height front.

shoulder height front.

Square over

1

Square point

Square point

X

3.

over I34 inches to

17.

X

to

1

to 27.

Draft neck curve, 17 to 27.

Draw

front shoulder chest measure.

from 17

to 4.

same length as back shoulder,

O — S.

Z

to 2 is

6 inches, yi of

Draft arniscye from S 2 to 4. In drafting a^mscye be careful not to go inside of line I R, also not below bust line. It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully, as nothing can l)e added to an arniscye that is too large, but w hen an armscye is too small it can be made larger. This completes the box.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 17

X

Diagram

120

239


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

240

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD REEFER. Diagram

121

MEASURES. Bust

2834 inches

Shoulder Height Front

Waist

261^ inches

Shoulder Height Back

Hip

32

inches

Neck Height and

Across Chest

12

inches

Across Back

Neck

13

inches

Shoulder

to

—6 6>4 — 4^^ — 1L>4 8

Waist

...Sj^

inches inches

inches

11

4^

Sleeve

inches

inches

13J4 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. For box follow same instructions as given At waist

E

line,

to J

is

inch; J to

'i

K

in First

is

and Second Lessons.

K

3 inches;

to

L

L

y^ inch;

is

4

to

is

4 inches; 4 to

5 is -H inch.

Take center of L to

Take center of hip,

line crosses

on

first

hip measure y4 inch to 10,

'i

inch

U

to

at

6,

Where

square up to 28 and down.

line crosses

on

first

hip measure 34

'ncli

inch to 11.

from F

At back neck,

From S

5

%

to 12,

On

— K, square down, where

15.

to

A

to

and 16

V

34 inch.

is

W

Draw back

yi inch.

is

B

to

134 inches for lap.

is

shoulder to 29

is

line

from

Draw

W —A —J— V

line

U

from

to

tfj

B

From

16.

J

to T,

T

as shown.

3 inches.

Shape two back gores as shown. At

front,

on

hip,

18 to 19

is

134 inches.

Draw

front line

from

Q — 19

to 17.

To make garment double

breasted, from front line measure 23^ inches to 26 tance back for button stand.

For

and collar, measure from deepest point of neck, 32 to 23, 1 from bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 33 to 21 is 2^4

lapel

back measure,

W—O.

To To

collar

from 25

— —21 — 2-1

trace colar, place separate paper

trace lapel, break on line will be reserved

26

on opposite

22.

Shape

collar

and

lapel as

Draw

inch.

to

is

more than 234 inches,

collar.

turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which

side.

This completes the diagram for reefer.

dis-

shown.

under the collar and trace out the shape of

24,

34

same

straight line

inches, 34 inch

Square on line Z'l ^26, 1 inch to 25, for standing band of collar, and from 24 or any desired width. 34 to 22 is 34 inch allowed for spring.

Shape back of

20, the


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR 26

Diagram

121

W OMEN.

241


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

242

EIGHT YEARS.

SEMI-FITTING COAT. Diagram

122'

MEASURES. Shoulder Height Front-.

8

inches

Shoulder Height Back

G'/z

32

inches

Neck Height and

12

inches

Across Back

13

inches

Shoulder

Bust

285^ inches

Waist

263^2

Hip Across Chest

-

Neck

Waist

....5}4

inches inches

11 -H

inches

11

inches

4J4 inches

13^

Sleeve

to

—6 — 4^2 —

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

E

to J

^

in First

and Second Lessons.

V

is '4 inch. Take is inch J to 6 is 5% inches 6 to 7 ib 44 inch I to T is 1 inch B to inch to 13, 14 inch center of 6—7, square down where line crosses on first hip. measure inch to 8 and }i inch to 9. On second hip, where line crosses, measure to 14. :

;

;

;

^

^

Shape back gore as shown.

At front hip

line,

from 18

to 19 is 1'^ inches.

Draw

front line

—O— 19

from 27

to 11.

double breasted, measure from front line 27 11, Zyi inches to 26 From 27 to 28 is 3^2 inch taken out. distance back for button stand.

To make garment To

draft lay

Draw

line

down

collar,

from 28 through 23

O— K.

Square over on

line

28

desired width.

Shape

measure from deepest point of neck, 16

collar as

shown.

24,

1

to 24.

27 to 22- is 2}^ inches,

]'4

to 23,

1

12,

same

inch.

more than back neck measure,

inch to 25, for stand band of collar, over to 20, 3 inches, or is J^ inch allowed for spring at Ijack.

any

20 to 21

^


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 122

243


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM3N.

244

SEMI-FITTING COAT, FRENCH SEAMS, EIGHT YEARS Diagram

12J

MEASURES. Bust

283^ inches

Shoulder Height Front-.

Waist

26J4 inches

Shoulder Height Back

—6 6>4 — 4>4

32

inches

Neck Height

5>^— 11%

...12

inches

Across Back

13

inches

Shoulder

Hip

-

Across Chest

Neck Sleeve

Waist

to

8

inches inches inches inches

11

4% 13 j4

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

At waist

line,

9 to 8

At

E is

1/2

is

inch;

M

and Second Lessons.

to 35

is

3>4 inches; 35 to 34

is

>2 inch; 34 to 9

is

4 inches;

>4 inch.

shoulder, from

At bust

M

to

in First

O to T is U is Iji

23/^

inches

;

T

to

S

is

2 inches.

I to inches. Take center of 34 hip measure ^4 inch to 12 and >4 inch to 37.

line,

35, square

down, where

line crosses

of 8 9, square up to 29 and down, where line crosses on hip measure 10 and yi inch to 11.

Take center

Raise back neck from

A

to

K

34 inch.

Draw back K

—A — M

to 38.

'/i

on

inch to

Shape back and gores

as

shown.

At

on hip, from 18

front,

Draw

line

to 19

is

D/o inches.

27—Q— 19— 13.

O

At bust line, from to L is 31 to 33 is yi inch taken out.

3'/:

inches.

Square L down.

At shoulder, 32 to 28 is 2% inches, 28 to 30 22 4. Reshape armscye from 29 to 4.

To make garment

is

-u inch taken out.

This Ji inch add on point

double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given

in

three

gore coat.

After pattern has been cut out lay pattern together to 4.

at points

28

—30— L.

Square shoulder over


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

Diagram

123

245


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

24b

EIGHT YEAR BOX COAT. Diagram 124

MEASURES.

— 6 inches Back 6>2 — inches Waist ...5^ — 11^ inches

Shoulder Height Front

Bust

ISyi inches

Waist

26J/2

inches

Hip

32

inches

Across Chest

12

inches

Across

Neck

13

inches

Sliuuldcr

Shoulder Height

Neck Height and

-^'/i

Back

inches

11 4->4

13^

.Sleeve

to

8

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given

in First

and Second Lessons.

Allow on bust 2 inches more for seams than the natural bust measure.

E

M

to

Draw

is

line

1/2

inch.

from

K— M

point 7 on waist

Draw For

straight line

front,

Draw

draw

To make garment 121,

From

from 29

from

O — 19

— 9— to

I

7 to 9

from 29 through 8

line

front line

to 10 full length. line.

11.

to

is

to 1

is

Square 1 >2 inches. 7 to 8 is 1 inch.

12 over to 10.

From

18 tu 19

is

down

2'',

which gives

This completes back. \'/2

inches.

13.

double breasted, collar and

pageXHO.

2')

inch.

lapel, follow

same instructions as given

in

diagram


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 124

247


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

248

PLAIN COAT SLEEVE. SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. Diagram

125

MEASURES. Half of Back

To Elbow

inches

5'/2

Full Length

15'j inches

22 >4 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

A

to

M

A

to

L

I

is

E

A — B.

line is

of back measure, 5>4 inches.

ISyi inches to the elbow, and

is

the distance between

3/2

F

to

3/2

S

to

Square point S down

N

Point

is

to

N

to

O X

Q

to

P

T

to

R

is

1

R

to

U

is

Ys of bust,

K

is

to

13/^

is

144 inches.

is

y^ inch.

Draw

is 1

line

ZZjA inches,

full

length sleeve.

D on

is

1

inch

line

less.

A —^B.

to B.

S and

iVI.

inches.

is

inch.

3^ the distance

C

to

I

H, over

to

3^

inches.

between

Square down point K.

L

F

— — D— L

3^ the distance of

N

is

measure plus 2 inches, allowance for seams.

Vi of bust

is

AJ

B

to

and D.

3^ of bust measure.

is

Square over on points

M

M

A

1

H

inch to

and

B.

J.

inch.

from

H

to

E

53/2

Shape the top sleeve from Shape undersleeve from

H

H

H

to A'

C) to

inches for top sleeve, and

through

through

R

R

to

to

Q

P

through

to

X

to

U

G

to

\'.

is I

^yi inches for undersleeve.

through

C

to E.

This completes the sleeve.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

f

249


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

250

BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS. SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. Diagram 126

MEASURES. Bust

ZSyi inches

Shoulder Height Front

Waist

26>4 inches

Shoulder Height Back

Hip

52

inches

Neck Height and

.Across Chest

12

inches

.Across

Neck

13

inches

Shoulder

to

— 6>i — 8

Waist.. ..51/2

Back

Sleeve

,

>/^

inches

4>4 inches

II V4

inches

11

inches

4^

_

13

6

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw .\ to

line

L

A — B.

Square down

S

is

'/>

D

is

^

A

the distance between and E S to to P is >< inch to is >^ inch

G

O

Syi inches; L to is 34 of bust, 7 inches; to B of bust measure less 2 inches. Square over points points E to K. This completes the bo.x of the sleeve.

is '/s of bust, which of bust. A to E is

;

O

;

D

;

N T

is

is

1

is

L

7 inches, J4 and B.

—O

H

inch; to F is 1 inch; and L to the distance between and B

K

!>

C ;

is 1

T

to

inch;

M

2y2 inches.

Shape sleeve from

B— O— C— N

through

H

to

F— P— K

and

M

to R.

This completes sleeve.

is


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

251


S

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

252

EIGHT- YEAR-OLD

KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT. DiAGKAM 127

MEASURES.

—6 Back — --.5^ Waist — 11^

Bust

283^ inches

Shoulder Height Front

8

Waist

26>2 inches

Shoulder Height

6J/2

Hip

32

inches

Meek Height and

Across Chest

12

inches

Across Back

Neck

13

inches

Shoulder

to

11

inches inches niches

4^4 inches

13^

Sleeve

4>'2

inches

inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given coat, follow

in

same instruction

For collar diagram 124, page 24^. as given in diagram 129, page 25'/.

and double breasted

h'rom 29 to 25 is 1 inch. Square over 2o, ly^ inches to 24 and 36. Square up 25, 13 inches, length of sleeve, to 28. 28 to 30 and 33 is 1 inch. Draw line connecting 36 to 30 and 24 Connect 36 with 7 and 24 with 7 for the under-gore of body. to 33.

l-rom 25 to 17

Draw .\llow

Draw

S

is

line

^

4^

from 22

part, ;

draw

15 to 14

line

this line to 22.

from 20—17—24.

inches.

—23—4

I

to 23, Syi niches. to

32.

This completes the forepart.

from 36 through 17 to 4>4 inches.

16.

line is

—H

from 36

Draw

inch.

1

from 24 through

line

line

is

Square over on

17 to 21 for front sleeve.

to 20,

22

to

oiif

Draw

from 21

For back

2}i inches.

from 2^

line

From 20 DinW

is

to 31, 5 inches.

inch raise from

R

up

to O.

.Square over 16 to 14; 16 to 15

Shape as shown from

15

— 17

to

is

1

inch taken

— — —

36

14

31

S.

This completes the back part of sleeve.

Shape the underarm front part of coat from

1 1

—9

is

1

inch.

—8 7 8 K O S 10 12 — — — — —31 — — 15 — 17—36—

Shape the back part of the underarm of coat from 12 Trace out the back part of coat and sleeve from

7 to 9

to 24.

to 36.

to

is

1

inch. 14

to 12.

The

front part of coat remains on the paper as

shown

Trace the undersleeve and gore of body from 7 diagram.

in the

dotted

line.

— 36—30—33 — 24 to

7,

as

shown on the

side of


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

33 28 30

Diagram 127

253


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

254

EIGHT YEARS A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN

HOW TO MAKE

Diagram 128

INSTRUCTIONS. Lay pattern together

To

underarm

at

as (ioilcd line sliows.

new seams under the arm. measure from neck, 8 to 7, 83/ inches, and from 6 to 4, W'/, inches. Draw straight 3 inches. Reshape armscye.

place the

Sy.i

to 2, is

To make garment

double breasted measure out from front back for buttons.

To make

line

and back shoulders together on point 9

collar, lay front

line

inches, square over 7 from 2 to 4. 2 to 3

4 inches to

Collar

1.

is

16,

same distance

cut without stand

band.

Draw

straight line

At back from

from 16

15 to 11

to 9.

5 inches.

is

11 to 10

i.s

y2 inch for spring.

Shape

collar

——

from 16

1

10 for shawl collar.

For

on back 12

sailor collar square over

For shovel

collar

15 to

14

is

93/2

I?,

6 inches to

Shape from

inches.

1

13.

Shape

to 14.

as

shown.

This completes the

coal.

DRAFT SLEEVE. Diagram

i29

,

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw

line .\

sleeve. all

!>.

A

9 to 6

to 9 is

is

i/^

of bust measure, Syi inches. 9 to B is 14 inches, fifll lengtn of Jess for each inch at underarm of coat, 3 to 2. Square

2^4 inches,

%

given points.

C is 13 inches, 1 inch less Draw line from A to 3 and C to

8 to

than yi of bust measure. 6 to 7, 5 to 4 3. A to 1 and C to 10 is ijA inches. 1 1

Shape sleeve as shown. 4

7

is

the

underarm

sleeve, joint to Doint 3 at

underarm

coat.

is is

lj4 iuclie.;. the center of

A — C.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

255

s < PC

o <

00 CM

s <

Q


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

256

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD

RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS. Diagram 130

MEASURES.

—8 — 4^ Syi — ll}i

Bust

28y2 inches

Shoulder Height Back

6

inches

Waist

26y2 inches

Shoulder Height Back

6J/2

inches

Hip

32

inches

Neck Height

Across Chest

12

inches

Across Back

Xeck

13

inches

Shoulder

of Waist

inches inches

11

4j4 inches

Sleeve

13^^ inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 242. This coat is cut without seams. For double breasted and lay down collor, follow the same instructions as given in diagram 122, page 238.

Draw

from 12 to 32. Reshape shoulder from 12

straight line

At back, draw

13

is

— —

from 29

line

Reshape shoulder from 28

to

29

11

U

O.

thee center of 12

Square over 13 to

32.

11,

'4

inch.

32.

is

the center of

O— 29.

-Square

U

T

over to

-54

inch.

—T—O.

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOUT SEAMS. Diagram

131

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in diagram 125, page 248. At undersleeve measure the distance from Q to X. Place Q on 12 and X on 29. Ease between Q X _^2 inch. .-\t back, measure the distance from 29 to O, which is 7 inches. Place the 7 inches on point I to 7. Square over 7 to 6, 2 inches. Draw line up from I to 6. 4 is the center of 6 I. Square 4 to 5, "/^ inch.

Shape from .\t

I

5 to 6.

measure the distance from 12 to 32, 8 '4 inches. measure up to 9, 834 inches. Square over point 9

to 8, 2 inches.

— P.

Square over

Place the 834

front,

Draw

straight line

from P

Shape sleeve from P Square point

At bottom,

H

N

up

W

to pletes sleeve.

to 8.

—2—

8.

2^

is

the center of 8

This sleeve

to 10, 3 inches. is

3

inches.

N

is

to 11

Draw

line

3

on

inches

2, j4

point

P,

inch.

cut through at shoulder. is

'4 inch.

from

N

to

1

is

)4 inch.

W— — 10—8—6— 10—1 11

to

W.

This com-


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 130

Diagram

257

13I


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

258

ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram

I32

MEASURES.

INSTRUCTIONS. Lay

front and back shoulders together as dotted line shows.

17 to 9

is

.J4

Square

Draw

inch. 11

16 to 10

over to 6

is

1

inch.

7, 5 inches.

Draw

from 9 10 and 12 to 13

line

12 to 15

to 12. is

— —

— —

from 6 15 7 to 13. Shape bottom from 13 1-1 15. and 2 to 7 is 3 inches, which is lost at the underarm of waist. we gain by placing an under gore in the body and sleeve. line

From

5j/ inches.

The

9 to 11 is 6*4 inches. 12 to 14 is 1 inch.

distance from 6 to 3

Tliis distance

which

is lobl

Draw

line

Take

the center of 22 23, which is 19. Square this point up to 18, 6 inches, same distance from 7 to 8 and 6 to 5. Square down 19 to 20, ISyi inches, the same distance from 7 to 13 and 6 to 15, length of sleeve. 20 to 24 and 21 is 1 inch,

from 7

to 8.

6 to

5,

6 inches.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

132

259


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.^N

260

HOOD

NO.

1,

EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.

DiAGRA

1

133

MEASURES. Bust

28 inches

INSTRUCTIONS.

E and B. D and E to F and F

Draw

E

to

line

to

B

is

always

^

of bust measure, 7 inches.

Square points just given,

which constitute box.

A

Place jacket back and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; C to is front of jacket or cape. Now draft curve B through G to A, as shown; J4 inch all


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram

133

261


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

262

HOOD

NO.

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD.

2.

Diagram 134

MEASURES. Bust

Top

of this hood

is

same

28 inches

as No.

From F

to P is 4 inches, and respective sizes I to

H

;

Now

draft curve from

H

1,

with

from B is

1

through

HOOD

to

inch.

G

e.'vce[)rion I

is

Now

of

F

to

B

being

%

of bust, Syi inches.

Sy^ inches increase or decrease these distances for connect these points with straight Hne, as shown. ;

to A.

NO.

3,

EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.

Diagram i35

MEASURES. Dust

28 inches

INSTRUCTIONS. Follow instructions as No.

B

to

I

is Syl inches, and as shown.

I

2,

to

with exception of following:

H

is

2 inches; J to

K

is -x^

incli

;

draft line

B

to

H

to line

K —G — A,


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 134 No. 2

Diagram

I35 No. 3

263



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

CHILDRENS COLLARS AND CUFFS

265


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

-^^

ONE PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE. Diagram 136

INSTRUCTIONS. Place front and back shoulder together,

H

At back from

Draw new

line

For sweep

at

to

B

is

1

G

F.

inch.

from

A

to B.

bottom

C

to B, pivet

on point E.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 136

267


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

268

CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART. Diagram 137

INSTRUCTIONS. Draw an

.At

.\ to K and .\ to C. Take front and back of eoat pattern, and back on line A to K allowni},' inch from j to (1.

angle from

line

A

to

(.'

back shoulder from

I

to

H

to C,

and make

(i to

.spring.

at

on

allow '4 inch for neck.

Take length of shoulder from V

For sweep

front

lay

1

bottom from B

to

C

pivot on point A.

H

the

same

length.

K

to

I!

is

I

inch for


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Diagram 137

269


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

270

HOW TO MAKE THE

FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT.

INSIDE

Diagram 138

INSTRUCTIONS. At the present time the fronts ait worked without canvas or hairclotii, to avoid the stiffness of the coat. Instead use camhric, as shown on the illustration. Cut the cambric the same shape as the material.

Ai the front, from 17

— 12

to 13

must he cut on the straight of material, the same from

5 to lo.

Stvv the outside and cambric separatel) then pi ess the both seams open, and baste the seam of with one or more bastings as shown. tiie coat with the seam of the cambric together, Also baste the cambric around the shoulder, armhole, under the arm and down the front. .

the lapel, make short .stitches through the inside of the cambric, catching the cloth withThen tape the break line, 11 12, being out showing the stitches through on the right side. very careful not to stretch the cloth, also from where the collar joins around the shape lie careful not to of iapel ease in the cloth from 17 to 12 and from 12 down to bottom, stretch or ease in the cloth.

To work

F'.etween 9

10 cut away 3 inches of the tape, which is IJ/j inches above length. cut away the 3 inches so as to give the garment more

We

line in

front.

HOW TO At the underarm of coat from 3 line, 1 2. Press on this

PRESS IN THE SIDE FRONT OF COAT.

—4

fold the material over to 5 6, which will give us the crease much as possible, so that the underarm, 3 4. becomes

line as

perfectly straight with the front seam, 5

bias, also short stitch

perfectly

flat

tween 20

21.

6.

HOW TO MAKE Cut the collar

and below the waist freedom at the waist

COLLAR.

18, so collar will lay the lapel and stretch well l)etween 19 When sewing the collar in the neck, ease J4 iT-"h be-

when turned down.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

l.>

Diagram 138

271


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

272

HOW TO MAKE THE

FRONTS OF A TIGHT-FITTING JACKET. Diagram 139

INSTRUCTIONS. A

garnu-iu

made according to these As shown in cut, the

respect.

dry and press .\t

it

thoroughly,

instructions will surel\- prove to he satisfactory in every front has French seams. First sponge the canvas, tncn .\fter that cut out according to pattern.

point 1 of canvas take out a \ of -ys, inch, also at the points 13 and 8. edges, cover them with a piece of tape and press thoroughly so as to

Now

cut a piece of haircloth

Take out

bust, as

shown

less

the

lay Hat.

in cut.

inch is cor9 and 10 J/j inch each to obtain the required fullness. This 36 inch bust measure; if the bust is larger we have to take out more; if smaller.

at points

rect for

Now

around the armhi.le and

Having joined

make seams

'

_.

than J/ inch.

baste haircloth on the can\ass, sew Ui\ye around haircloth from protruding.

the

edges,

to

tiatteii

and

prevent

to

the

No. 14 represents an extra piece of canvas, which is sewed as far down as point of dart to obtain more stiffness over the bust. At the waist line cut canvas as shown in the diagram.

Make

On

a small dart

from

—

-1

5,

sewing tape on top of

the outside, at the place where zigzag line sary fullness at the waist as shown by (

it

as

shown

is drawn, hold in, while pressing, to get the necesshadows at 6 and 7 in the diagram.

Now we

are ready to place the canvas with the haircloth on the both together with small bastings.

In

making the

I

left side

sewing on.

Between 2 and 3

When

of the goods and to sew

on the canvas, catching the cloth without showing on the and giving the lapel the necessary rolling shape. Now sew tape from point and from 13 to 12 to 2 and from 3 to 15, holding in top goods and canvas while

lapel use short stitches

right side, 11 to 12,

before.

everything

at the waist is

I'lie

the goods have to be stretched.

joined press with a verv hot iron.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

DlAGRj\Ml39

273



Alterations


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

276

DIAGRAM Hoiv

Reduce the back part from

to Alter:

move B

at the

inch from

D

A

to B, say, >4 inch, as

back part up to A, the forepart.

to C.

FIGURE Fault:

Cause

:

A.

The back

part wrinkles at the side.

The back

part

is

A.

too short for the forepart.

Allow

at the

shown

in

dotted

line.

Then

bottom of the back part Yi


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

277

\


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

278

DIAGRAM How

to

From

A down

E

to

F

Alter:

is

^

Reduce

the forepart froiii

to dotted line

inch taken

off.

and over

to

t>

Shape from F

C is

to

B.

to D, say, >^ inch.

^

inch.

G

as dotted line shows.

Square over shoulder from B through b. which locates E, and over point.

FIGURE Fault

Cause

Coat springs open

:

:

at

Front shoulder point

bottom, not enough is

too long.

B.

lap.

to

the original shoulder


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

279

03

a

<

o <


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

280

DIAGRAM How

line.

D

to

Reduce

to Alter:

F

is

the back part

Reshape from

the

same

lensjtli

B—D—E as

C

from

A

',o

B and C

Cause

to D, say.

to F.

to E.

FIGURE Fault

C.

C.

Coat wrinkles at the back of neck.

:

:

There

is

too

much back

lensrth at the

back of neck.

'_>

inch, as

shown

in

dotted


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

281

U g

U <

O <


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

282

dl\(;ram 11

0:1.'

to .liter:

dotted

Reduce the

A

lo

B and C

E

lo

F

Lengthen the top sleeve

from

K

to

G

to

H

at Isottom

L and

I

and

inch

>4

the

from

K

The

Cause

:

The

to D, say, yi inch or

to

Reduce

sleeve falls in folds sleeve head

Alter: the

is

from the

:

Cause:

L and

to

D.

I

to G,

too short.

Reduce the sleeve head from

undersleeve from 3 to

has too

much

at the

down.

4,

the

1

same

1.

lo 2, say,

3^2

inch, as dotted line shows.

yi inch, as dotted line shows.

D—

1.

This sleeve wrinkles at the top of the undersleeve upward. It

and ^4 inch

2

sleeve head

FIGURE fault

in

same amount, and reshape.

DIAGRAM D— How

more, as showr

to G.

FIGURE fault:

2

line.

Reduce the undersleeve from

sleeve

from

sleeve

d.

sleeve head.

under-


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

283

3

!X0

«


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

284

DIAGRAM Hoiv

to

Alter:

from C

Take the

fullness out at the side front only, in this case

to B, slightly

shaped up to A.

FIGURE Fault

:

When

a coat

is

E.

too full in

tiie

E.

front at hottoni.

1

inch

more or

less


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

285

UJ Oi

O

<


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

286

DIAGRAM How

to Alter:

from

A

Rip the seam to

P>.

at top of the side

Shape down

The ditsance we take off from

A

to

to bust

front gore

Front armliolc loo

full.

and take

ofT

-Kt

inch, in this case

iii.e.

B add on

the shoulder

FIGURE Fault:

F.

F.

from C

to

D, as dotted

line show:,.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

287

3

B a u

be


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

288

DIAGRAM Hoiv

to Alter:

From

A— B

Rip the seam

shape

at

down below

on the shoulder from

C

top of the side back gore and take off 34 mc\\ in this case.

the Ijust line to

I.

l^.ack

armliole too

The

distance

to D, as dotted line shows.

FIGURE Fault:

G.

full.

G.

we take

oft'

from

A

to

K add


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

^89

O 3 IE

O


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR

290

DIAGRAM Ho-w

to

Alter:

more or

Rip coat open less,

slightly

at the

FIGURE I'aitlt

:

Cause:

When The

H.

bottom and allow

shaped to A, as dotted

at the side

line

shows.

H.

a coat wrinkles across the back at waist line.

coat

is

too tight over the hip at back.

WOM.i:N,

back gore from

V

to

C

1

inch


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN

291

3


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

292

DIAGRAM Hoiv

to

Alter:

All(3\v at the

Reshape shoulder from C

back from

to

1!

to F, as dotted

A

Cause:

When The

a coat

coat

is

falls in

folds

to

hne shows.

down

cut out too deeji at

D

and

FIGURE I'tiiill:

J.

J.

center hack.

tiie

hack

fjf

nccl

C

-M incli.


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

293

b/)


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

294

INDEX Page

IRODUCTIOK PKEFACE. TO SECOND EDITION Rol'oRTlONAL MEASUREMENTS I'KOPOKTIONAL WIDTHS I'Kl li'OKTK )NAL LENGTHS DlKEtTIOXS FOR TAKING MEASURES JACKET LESSON JACKET LESSON 2 TIGHT BACK, L(JOSE FRONT TIGHT HACK. LOOSE FRONT, COMPLETE TIGHT FITTING BACK, WITH TWO DARTS TIGHT FITTING BACK, LOOSE FRONTS, FRENCH SEAMS TIGHT FITTED lACKET FRENCH SEAMS REGULAR COAT SLEEVE HOW TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP HOW TO MAKE RECiULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER BISHOP SLEEVE SEMI-FITTINC; WITH UNDER GORE SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SEAMS AT SIDES AND SAILOR COLLAR L( JOSE SEM I-FITT NG COAT SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR SEVEN-EIGHTHS FITTING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE HI PLESS COAT LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT M< )NTE CARLO C( )AT TWO PIECE COAT LOOSE BOX COAT ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT LOOSE C( AT, RA( LAN SLEEVE HOW TO PLACE DARTS IN FRONT OF RAGLAN HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A P.LOCK PATTERN, LOOSE COAT HOW TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM BLOCK PATTERN FOR DEEP ARMHOLE COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT SHAWL COLLAR WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN SET ON COLLAR AND LAPEL SIIiiWN ON BLoiK PATTERN TWO-PIECE KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN LOOSE FRONT JACKET. THREE-EIGHTHS SEAMS ALLOWED NINETEEN GORE CORSET JACKET E T N J A C KT RUSSIAN BLOUSE TIGHT FITTING lACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT LOOSE FRONT lACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST TIGHT FITTING VEST EMPIRE JACKET NORFOLIv JACKET NORFOLK TACKET TO DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER SFMI-FITTING COAT WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR CHILD'S TURNED DOWN COLLAR STANDING COLLAR TURNED DOWN COLLAR HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN OPERA CLOAK ULSTER WITH I50LMAN SLEEVE FICHU NO. 3 FICHU NO. 4 IN

5

6

y 10

1

11 12 14 16 18

I

20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

I

)

42 44 46 48 30 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 12 74 76 78 80 82

;

"

(J

DOLMAN DOLMAN DOLMAN DOLMAN

NO. NO. NO. NO.

5

:... .-.

'.

8

(Continued)

1

1

2 3

98 100 102 104 106 106 10S

7

APE WITH ONE DART CAPE WITH TWO DARTS Co,.\CHMAN'S FUR C.M'E HOW TO GRADE MflNTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT ULSTER NO. ULSTER NO. 2 PRINCESS DRESS NO. NO. NO.

86 88 90 92 94 96

6

I

HOOD HOOD HOOD

84

KNEE LEGGINS SHOE LEGGINS

.*.

lin 112 114 116 118 120 122 1 24 126 128 130 132 1.^4

136 138 140 142 144 144 146 1 46


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

295

ENDEX Pt«.

WAISTS. FIRST LESSON WAISTS. SECOND LESSON IIC.HT iriTED LINING, FRENCH SEAMS

TIGHT UNINi; SHIRT WAIST WITH ONE GORE TIGHT FITTING TWO i'lECE LINING LOUSE SHIRT WAIST li

UIAGKA.M

8J

\i1 \'J,

\i* Jj* '5* 160

TURN OVER COLLAR IIISHOP SLEEVE TIGHT LINING SLEEVE TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS, FOUR PIECES BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE HOW TO .MAKE KIMONO SLEEVE FROM BLOCK PATTERN WAIST WITH KIMONO SLEEVE MANNISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE HOW TO MAKE A SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL HOW TO MAKE A NOTCH COLLAR HOW TO MAKE A SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN HIPLESS OR HOBBLE SKIRT IN ONE PIECE EMPIRE SKIRT lliiBliLE SKIRT WITH ONE PLEAT ON SIDE

}6f }6j J6j 166 168

PA.XTALOON SKIRT RC U L A R SKIRT THREE GORE SKIRT FIVE GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT F1\E GORE SKIRT SEVEN GORE SKIRT NINE GORE SKI RT ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE ELEVEN (;oRE FLARE SKIRT THIRTEEN Go RE PLEATED SKIRT FIFTEEN t;oRE SKIRT SAFETY RIDING SKIRT •;• HACK PART OF SKIRT ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF SAFETY RIDING HABITS RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE, FRONT PART RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE. BACK PART DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT RIDING BREECHES PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, CHILDREN'S PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, MISSES & JUNIORS' FI RST LESSf N SECOND LESSON EIGHT YEAR OLD REEFER SEMI-FITTlisG COAT, EIGHT YEARS SEMI-FITTING FRENCH SEAMS. EIGHT YEARS EIGHT YEAR OLD BOX COAT PLAIN COAT SLEEVE BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS EIGHT YEAR r)LD KIMONO SLEEVE .\ND COAT HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN

J'j 196 198

lIoliBLE SKIRT

L

I

)

DRAFT A SLEEVE EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOI'T SEAMS ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN EIGHT YEARS HOOD NO. HOOD NO. 2. EIGHT YEARS HOOD NO. f. EIGHT YEARS ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING CHILDREN'S COLLARS AND CUFFS ONE PIECE CIRCULAR C.\PE CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TKIHT FITTING JACKET H( )W T( MAKE ALTERATIONS FIC.URE A. DIAGRAM A FIGURE B. DIAGRAM B. FIGURE C, DIAGRAM C FIGURE DI. DIAGRAM Dl FIGURE D-2. DIAGR.NM D-2. FIGITRE.E. DIAGRAM E FIGURE F, DIAGRAM F FIGURE G, DIAGRAM G FIGURE H, DIAGRAM H FIGURE J, DIAGRAM 1,

)

'.

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JiS ]/2 \l* 1J6 178 ISO 182 184 188

J'" ]92

200 202 20j 206 208 210 212 214 216 220 222 224 226 228 230 232 234 235 236 238 240 242 244 246 248 250 2.52 2.i4

254

if* 256 258 260 262 262 264 266 268 270 272 274 276 278 280 282 282 284 286 288 2^0 292



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