y^
*
xA *^
'--""^>*%
.^tV^^'% -Vv
:';.A^^-
KA^l
SECOND EDITION
A-^^
'
A*^.>
K
V
..^* S^^ifi^
I ^ 'l>%'-
:^^ i--vf
Qass.
_i«L?l_'
'
-^
Book.
/^ "i,.>#»;»,^-
r*Wj^jr^
^<rffc''^-/
Hv -W-iA/?'
1008
THE American Garment Cutter FOR
WOMEN'S GARMENTS SECOND EDITION
^A
complete, practical, up-to-date
treatise on the cutting of
WOMEN'S GARMENTS according
the latest and
to
most
approved method
AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY PUBLISHERS NEW YORK - LONDON - PARIS - BERLIN - VIENNA ir
,
"-
n
\1
i.A
o.\^
^.^^ o
INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. Entered according to the act of Congress
1913
in the
year 1913
by
AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY In the oHice of the Librarian at Washington. D. C.
All Rights reserved
Reproduction Interdite
Vervielfaeltigung Untersagt
-<^^/erf
ri>'
^ '''^^i
PrFfarp to ^"tHE / 1
1
^^
lltp
First Edition of the
^Fronli
American Garment Cutter met with un-
precedented success, in reference both to Ladies' Tailoring Trade as a
and the demand for the book
The
iEfitttnn
work on
its
acceptance by the
cutting par
excellence
itself.
call for this auxiliary instructor in
the drafting and cutting
of ladies tailor-made apparel by a practical, yet simple system, has
completely exhausted the First Edition; and in devoting ourselves to the Second Edition we have carefully considered the up-to-date needs of the trade in
its
preparation.
Therefore, while fully covering the matter of detailed considerall standard garments, the taking of the measures, the cor-
ation of
rect drafting of the patterns, tables of proportions,
so highly
commended
in the first edition,
we have
and other features recognized the im-
perative need of "modernizing," so to say the treatment of the suband while not getting away from the fundamental principles as
ject,
set forth in the earlier issue, the present work has been revised and supplemented with much new material and many illustrations, making it in every way a worthy successor to the First Edition. in the satisfaction that this
work
will duplicate the successof the
American Garment Cutter, First Edition, we present practical use and consideration.
it
for
your
The Author,
GUSTAV ENGELMANN
DEDICATION
TO
the
thousands of Tailors throughout
the World
whose
are
lives
unselfishly
consecrated to the production of perfect fitting
garments for women,
this
work
is
dedicated in
the most cordial wishes of
The (Author.
Measurements
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS
WOMEN Sizes
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
10
PROPORTIONAL WIDTHS s-e
From 4Feet 4in.to 6Feet.
4FT.4IN.
Diagram
2
6 FEET
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
«""
PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS
11
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
12
DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES. In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that she be treated in such a that she feel perfectly at ease in every way, hence will assume her natural attitude. Act quickly but quietly; don't get flustered yourself; converse naturally with her, to take her mind from the fact that she is being measured, otherwise she will inevitably and unconsciously "pose," which will result in a misfit, meaning trouble, alterations, loss of prestige,
manner
etc.
»
Be very careful in measuring to place the tape close to the body, neither too tight nor The success of the garment depends greatly too loose, and see to it that it is not crooked. on the balance, which the measurement alone can ascertain. It is therefore imperative that must again the body of your customer be in its natural pose when the measure is taken. impress upon you the necessity of so arranging matters that you will keep her body in its proper pose. It is a very common occurence that a person whose natural attitude is somewhat stfKjping will erect herself during the operation of measuring, which should be avoidTake special notice of the foregoing instruction. ed.
We
TAKING THE MEASURE. Diagram
4,
N.
1
;
Diagram
No.
4,
-;*»»;««»,2.
—
FIR.ST Mark shoulder seam with two pins, one at 8, the other at 9. This is very important, and great care should be taken not to get this particular seam too far front or back.
—
SECOND Place tape high up under arm as line 1 shows, and mark with pins for shoulder height measure at 22 and 15 on front and 24-25 on back, directly under shoulder pins previously placed. BUST MEASURE — Move
tape
down
to
fullest
part
of
bust
and
2)
(i)iiint
take
measure.
W.MST MEASURE — Draw illl'
ME.ASURE — Move
ure fairly tight.
tape tight arcnind waist and lake measure.
down
tape
Four inches lower
NECK ME.ASURE — Measure
is
a
four (4) inches below waist to point second hip measure, puint 5.
around neck with
and meas-
4,
ease, not too tight nor yet too loose.
CHEST— 21-20. From armscye to armscye across chest. NECK FRONT TO WAIST —6-2-3. From lowest point of neck measure
.\CR()SS
to fullest part
of bust to wraist front.
SHOULDER HEIGHT FRONT—8-22
and
Measure from pins on shoulder
9.15.
1o
pins ])laced on bust.
SFK
)ULDER HEIGHT BACK—8-24
and
9-25.
Measure from pins on shoulder
to pins
placed on back.
LENGTH BACK TO WAIST—6-1-3. From collarbone to center of .'\CROSS BACK —23-n. From armscye to armscye across back. UNDER ARM — Place the end of tape a little back of directly under the measure to bottom of belt.
Be very
careful to get this
OUTSIDE SLEEVE— 7-11-12-13. From
back
the
to waist.
arm
;
then take
measure long enough.
center of back to armscye, elbow and wrist.
SKIRT MEASURE. Take waist measure same
as for jacket,
and
for hip
LENGTH FRONT—3-16 from waistband to floor. LENGTH SIDE— 18-17 from waistband to floor. LENGTH BACK— 3-19 from waistband to floor.
,
measure, 6 inches below waist.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
4 No.
1
Diagram 4 No.
2
13
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
14
JACKET LESSON Diagram
I.
5
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
15'
inches
Shoulder Heights Back
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height and
17!.-
inches
Length
"'4
Length rrnnt of Waist
—
j
of
Sjj inches
A
line
From
A
to
C
is
Shoulder
From A
to
E
is
E
to
F
to
F
is
15^
D
to
This
1
D
to
O
is
inches, length of waist in Ijack.
inch
is
C E F and B
3/ of bust
we allowed
to
G
is
jS4
to
H
is
y^ of bust
C
to
Y
line
measure plus
A 1
B.
inch.
In this case 20 inches.
lost in cutting out the pattern.
of bust measure, in this case 5 inches.
measure plus lli
inches, in this case
4
inches.
254 inches.
This point changes
C
is
on
;^ inch allowed for breathing.
D G
is
first hip.
4 inches, the second hip.
Square over points
From C
inches, neck height in back.
4 inches, the
is
B
B.
7^
more or
}i,
to I is 7 inches, yi of
Square point
D
and
Square up points
G
H I
less
according to larger or smaller
back measure.
up and down.
Y
on
line
C
D.
— 7>^ 8^ — 6 — 9>^
to Waist-. --7,'/4
LMSTRUCTIONS. Draw
14
:,
sizes.
inches
inches inches
15jl'
inches
5.>4
indies
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
15
A
D
-^
^
-4^
^
^DO
-^^E
-^DP
4)6
Diagram
5
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
16
JACKET LESSON
II.
Diagram 6
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights Front.
Across Chest
15 ,'4
inches
Neck
15
inches
— 7>^ Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8^4 Neck Height and Waist. .734 — 15^
— 17>^
inches
Length of Shoulder
Length Front of Waist.
.
.
.73.4
8j4 inches 14 .
.
.gYz
to
5%
inches inches inches inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. C
to
P
Y
to
O
R
to
S
6 inches, the second shoulder height back. 834 inches, the first shoulder heiglit back. Square over A and P on line A B. In squaring P over point R is found crossing line I. is
is
is
>4 inch.
At
G X
front,
to to
X
is
5^
H
2 inches. Square over point 1
O
A O
S, inches. and draw back shoulder Square point 3. to 3 is 7^4 inches, second shoulder height front. over IJ-j inches to point 31. 9y2 inches, first shoulder height from. Square point
Draft neck
X
is
1
to 27.
Draft neck curve from 31 to 27.
.
Draw front shoulder from 31 to 3, 5)4 inches, Z to 2 is 7-54 inches, ^ of chest measure.
the
same
as back shoulder O. S.
Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to 3. In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line I. R. Also do not bring it below the f)ust line. It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully and get the shape as near as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large while a small armscye can easily be made larger.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
I7
31®^^)X
-^^E
-i^T
4b Diagram 6
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
18
.
TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT. Diagram
7
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
9>^
Across Chest
15j/ inches
Shoulder Height Back
6
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height and
— 17j4
inches
Length of Shoulder....
Length Front of Waist
7^4
8j/ inches 14
to Waist.. ..7j4
— 7>1 — 8yl — 15/4 5-)4
inches
inches
inches inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. E to J is I'/j inches in all cases. ly4 inches. This measure varies J4 inch according to larger or smaller size where the back is tight fitting with two gores. Waist measure 25 inches, 34 of same is 6^4 inches, which must be divided into Jj back and two equal gores. to L is 1 inch. L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need 5 inches in this case, the otiier 2'4 inches are taken out The remaining 5 inches are to be divided equally into in two darts oi 1% inches each. two gores of 2j4 inches each. L to 4, 2y2 inches; 4 to 5, l^s inches; 5 to 6, 2y2 inches; 6 to 7, lH inches. 1'4 inches. On hip line measure from F to Draw center back from A through J to \'. Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure inch to 15, no allowances to be made for point 10. Fake the center of 4 and 5, s(]uare dowi> where line crosses on hip, measure y^ inch to 7S and inch to 74. Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure j^ inch to 13 and yi inch to 14. 28 to 30 is inches length of underarm measure. At waist
J to
K
line
is
K
V
y
^
Sy
waist line from L to 30. R to T is 2^4 inches. Draw guide line from K at waist line to T. Go out from guide line on bust line 1 inch to U. Shape back and side gores as shown. Measure hip from to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 203'j inches, j/j of hip measure. 33 to 18 is iy> inches. This 1^4 inches is taken out in the front dart at waist line between 9 and 8. Measure back neck O, which is 2y2 mches. Place this 2y> inches at front neck on point 32 to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. Draw center front line from 27 through to 18 to length of coat. 27 to is 7% inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 173^ inches. Length waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. To place dart, measure from at waist line to 9, 3^4 inches. Take out from 9 to 8 1^4 inches. This l^^ inches we allowed from 33 to 18. On front bust line from Q measure over 3)4 inches, and from this point down to measure 3j4 inches. Take the center 8, 9, draw a line up to W, down and shape dart as diagram shows.
Draw new
V
A
O
Q
M
M
W
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
7
19
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
20
TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT COMPLETE. Diagram
8
MEASURES. 8^
......38
inches
Underarm
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
956
inches
Across Chest
15j4 inches
Shoulder Height Back
....-8%
inches
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
Hips
.
inches
Neck Height
inches
14
to
Waist
— 7>4 —6 7j4 — 15>4 5^
Shoulder
inches
inches
jnches
INSTRUCTIONS.
How
to
make garment double
Measure from front
line
O
18,
breasted.
2 inches to 26, 71 and draw
For buttons measure the same distance back from front in
To
line.
line
O
18 and
mark buttons
inch.
1
a straight line from the bottom of lapel 26 through 23 to 24.
32 to 21
35 to 36
2%
is
Square on
line
is
Shape back
Shape
shown
diagram.
obtain collar and lapels measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23,
Draw
as
inches, ^4 inch
26, 24.
more than
the neck
measure
O
A.
'
ly^ inches, to 25 for standing band and 3 inches to 35.
yi inch for spring. line of collar
collar
and
lapel as
from
25, 24, 21 to 36.
diagram shows.
Place separate paper under collar, trace out according to shape of collar.
To
trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under
be reversed on oppositie
side.
and trace out the shape of
lapel,
which
will
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
11
12
Diagram
8
21
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOME^f
22
TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH
TWO
DARTS.
Diagram 9
INSTRUCTIONS.
8^
Bust
v^8
inches
Underarm
Waist
23
inches
Across Back
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
IS^/^
inches
Shoulder Height Back
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height and
— 17^
inches
Shoulder Height Back
Length of Shoulder
5J4 inches
Hip
-
7'4
Length Front of Waist
inches inches
14
9_^
—
7y2 inches
8^4 inches
to Waist.... 7J4
6
— 15/4 — 8J4
inches inches
MEASURES. front. Follow same instructions as given in First, Second and Third Lessons with exception At hip line measure from \' to 10, 15 to 74, "5 to 14, 13 to 18, which is 20>4 inches plus 1 inch. This 1 inch is taken out between the two front darts at hip line, j/j inch in each. Draw center front line from 27 through O 18, slightly shaped to 71. 27 to D is 734 inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 1734 inches, length of waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. which is 34 of back measure, on point 30, and measure over 12; 2 inches Place the 6^4 inches 01 waist measure. to point 63, which is is 3 inches. 63 to i
f
M
,
^
M
These 3 inches are divided equally' into the two front darts at waist to 62, 2 inches. To place darts, measure at waist line from
M
line,
of
1
!
j
inches each.
62 to 63 is 134 inches. 63 to 9 is 1 inch. 9 to 8 is 134 inches.
On
from D measure over 3^ inches, and from this point down 3 inches to U. measure over to 234 inches, and from this point up to the bust line 23/ inches,
front bust line
From
U
W
which gives us the height of Take the center of 62 and 63 from waist line to 57,
darts. at waist line,
draw
a line tip to
U
and measure 6 inches down
the center of 8, 9 at waist line, draw a line up to ^V, and measure down 6 inches from waist line to 58. The first dart where line crosses on hip measure J4 in'^h to 59 and 34 i'l*-"!! to 60. The second dart where line crosses on hip measure 34 in.i-'h to 16 and '4 v\<:\\ to 17 and shape dart as diagram shows. at the waist line to 54. 1 incli. To make garment double breasted measure from
Take
M
At neck 27
Draw
to 52
is
1
inch.
opposite line from 71 through 54, 54 to 53 is 134 inches. 71 to 55 is 234 inches. Shape front as diagram shows.
Q
to ^1, ^2 to 51
is
4 inches.
inch. To obtain lay down collar, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23, Draw line from 27 through 23 to 24, 32 to 21 is 2-'4 inches, '4 ini-'li more than the back neck 1
measure. A O. Square on line 27, 24, I34 inches to 2't< for standing band and 3 inches to Z'h. 35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. -Shape the back of collar from 25 through 24, 21 to 36, as shown in diagram.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 9
n
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
24
TIGHT FITTING BACK LOOSE FRONT FRENCH SEAMS. Diagram 10
MEASURES. 38
inches
Underarm
-5
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights,
Across Chest
15>2 inches
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
-
inches
8>4 inches
Front
Shoulder Heights Back
Neck Height and
inches
14
to
— 854 — 6 —
9>^
Waist. ..734
Shoulder
7]/2
inches inches
1-^>^
inches
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given French seams.
in the First,
Second and Third Lessons,
Back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. to S is 2.>4 inches. At back bust line C to U is 3^ inches. Shape the back and side gore as aiagrani shows. At front shoulder 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder 22 to 20 is 2 inches. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 20 to 19 is 2^4 inches, the same as back shoulder T to S. Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19.
vvitli
the exception of
T
On
front bust
'line
D
to
W
is
O
to T.
334 inches.
Shape the front as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted measure from the front ime O 18. 1 inches to 26, 71 and draw line. For buttons measure the same distance back from front line Q 18 and mark buttons as diagram shows.
To obtain shawl collar and Draw a line from the botom
lapel,
measure from the deepest point of neck 31
to 23,
1
inch.
of lapel at 26 through 23, 24. O. more than back neck measure inch inches, is 34 21 32 to Square over on line 24, 26, 134 inches to 25 standing band and over to 35. 35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 30.
2M
A
collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place separate piece of paper under collar and traced out according to shape of collar. To trace out lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on opposite side. at bust line and meet the two the two front gores, lay pattern together on point out Cut points on shoulder 22 and 20. At neck point 32 raise 34 inch and point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 11 through 3 to 40.
Shape
W
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 2B(a.
24
Diagram
10
25
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
26
TIGHT FITTED JACKET FRENCH SEAMS. Diagram
h
MEASURES. 38
Hust
Waist Hips Across Chest
25 41
-
1-
IS"/
Neck
15
Length Front of Waist
/yl
— 17^
inches inches inches inches inches' inches
L'nderarm Across Back 9^^ Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back 6 Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 Length of Shoulder
— — —
8>4 inches inches 14 Jyi inches 8yi inches IS^/^ inches 5)4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given front and French seams.
Back shoulder
T
to S,
On
O
T
to inches.
2%
bust line
C
to
C
is
is
in the First,
3 inches.
3)4 inches.
At hip measure from F to V, 1J4 inches. Take the center of L K square down, where to
Take
Second and Third Lessons with the exception of
line crosses
on
hip,
measure
)'s
line crosses
on
hip,
measure
yi inch to
inch to 15, ji inch
10.
the center of 4,
5,
square
down where
7:i,
^i inch
to 74.
the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 13 and y?, inch to 14. Measure hip from \' to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 18, which is20| inches J/ of hip measure These 2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip, between 16 and 17. plus 2 inches. 28 to 30 is inches underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30, shape back as diagram shows. Measure back neck O, which is Zyi inches, place these 2>4 inches on front neck at point 22, measure to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. 27 to is 7'/i inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 17^ inches, length waist in front. through Draw front line from to 27 and down from .M to 18 slightly shaped to /I. Draw new waist line from 30 to J\I. Place the 6J4 inches, which is 34 of waist measure, in back on jwint 30. measure over 12y2 inches, which is '/j of waist measure jilus J inch, which gi\es us point V.
Take
8^
A
O
M
M
O
;
9 to
M
These
is
2"/^
and
214 inches. inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out
in
front dart
between 9
8.
to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on ])oint 3, which gives us point 20 to 19 is 2)4 inches, the same as back shoulder T S. Reshape arniscye from 28 through H to 19. At front bust line O to is 3^4 inches. •Shape the front as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted, measure from j\I at the waist line 1 inch to 54. At neck 27 to 52 is 1 inch. Draw opposite line from 71 through 54 O to 52. 52 to 51 is 4 inches.
At front shoulder, 32
22 to 20
is
19.
W
71 to 55 is 2J/2 inches. 54 to 53 is 1^ inches. Shape the front as diagram shows. Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point points on shoulder 22 and 20. At neck point 32 is raised "4 inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to -10.
W
at
bust
line,
and meet the two
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
11
27
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
28
REGULAR COAT SLEEVE. Diagram
12
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
To Elbow
7
inches
Full
Half of Back
19>4 inches'
29>4 inches
Length
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
A
to
A — B. A
line
B
M
Square over pletes
all
given points.
box for
L
inch.
1
bust plus
3^2
sleeve. to
C
inch, 5
— H.
K
is
the center of
B
H
to
G
Draw
is
1
inch.
is
A
3^ of back measure, 7 inches.
is
full length, 291/- inches.
is
is
to
M
to
is
D
is
y^
M
to
S
N
is
the center of
of bust less
J4 of bust, 9 inches.
M—
O
to
P
Square down
J/
inch to
Vz inch.
is
'/^
1
to
inch,
inch.
T
is
3,1/.
to
N to R is
1
Top
sleeve
from
inches to elbow.
inches.
This com-
M
O, 2V2 inches. inch.
R
to
U
is
to
I
y^ of
inches.
line
from
G
J.
through J to E.
J to
V
is
Sy^ inches.
inches.
Shape undersleeve from
l9'/2
Square down S to H.
Square
.S.
L
G—R—O — N — U
G —R — P—O— I— C— E.
lu V.
This completes coat sleeve.
G
to
E
is
6,'/
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
12
29
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
30
HOW
TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP. Diagram
13
INSTRUCTIONS.
A
regular sleeve
is
1
inch from
At elbow IK' inches C At
top.
N
to
O
Shape as shown.
is
M
to
I,
in this
case
is
to C.
IK' inches, in this case 3 inches.
3^
inches.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
13
31
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
HOW TO MAKE REGULAR
SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER
Diagram
14
INSTRUCTIONS. Keep
elliow in er,
At
C
I
A
to
G
is
1
At bottom,
E
to
P
is
1
The heavy
To make
is
the original sleeve.
is
This sleeve
is
inch.
1
D
to
H I
is
to
M
inch, J to
inch,
1
is
N
1
is
B
inch, 1
F
to
K
is
to
1
O
inch. is
1
inch.
1
inch on top and
inch.
line is the correct length.
sleeve longer, the
For regular
line
inch.
At undersleeve,
L
The doUcil
place.
inch at top and bottom.
top,
to
same
sleeve follow
same way, add
same instructions
as given in
1
diagram
inch at bottom. 12,
page 28.
2 inches short-
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
14
33
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
34
BISHOP SLEEVE. UlAlJRAlM 15
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
D
inches.
A
to
E
A
A^B.
line
B
to
16 inches,
is
to J is
_'
is
H
4>j inches, yi of bnst measure. of bust measure, 9 inches.
D
J to
Square over
inches less than yj of bust measure.
is
ail
{
of bust measure,
')
given points.
Square dovn
E
to K.
This completes box for sleeve.
Take center of to
G
Square up
is
O
K— B, yi
to
N
which gives us point T.
inch; i
X
inch.
Shape sleeve as shown.
to
A
1'
and
to
F
is
j
to
C
is
T
Square down I
2/4 inches;
inch
E
to
;
O 1
is
V^
is 3}'4
to
the
M
3 inches.
distance of
inches.
D to O A — E.
and P
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
IS
35
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
36
SEMI-FITTING
WITH UNDER GORE.
DiAGRAJI 16
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front.-
9j^
Shoulder Height Back.-
6
Hip
-
8J4 inches 14
Across Chest
15j^ inches
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height and
173/^
inches
Length of
Length Front of Waist
7y^
—
to Waist... .734
— — 8)4 — 15^4 /J/j
5^
Shoulder
inches inches inches
inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
in the First
and Second Lessons,
witli
the exception of
the
back.
At waist
line
At hip F
to
Draw
E
V
to J
34 inch.
34 inch.
center back line from
T
is
waist line from J to 7
is
At back shoulder .At
is
Measure from 7
Take
R
to
to 6,
1
A
through
J
V
This garment
to 79.
line crosses
on
10 inches.
inch.
hip,
Take the center of 6 and Yi,
28 to 30
to 13 is
Draw new
and
}i,
cut with a center back seam.
434 inches.
the center of J 6. and from this point measure
Where
is
measure 34 of an inch 7,
vj^
to 10,
of an inch to
K
anfl ^% of an inch to L.
and 34 of an inch
to 15.
square up to 28 and down, and where line crosses on hip measure
to 14.
834 inches length of underarm. waist line 30 to L.
Shape the back gores as diagram shows.
To
draft front, collar and lapel, follow instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
i6
37
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
38
COAT WITH SEAMS AT
SEMI-FITTING
Diagram
SIDE
AND SAILOR COLLAR.
17
MEASURES. 38
inches
Underarm
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
9^ —
Across Chest
15>4 inches
Shoulder Heights Back
8^4
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
-
-
Hips
-
Length Front Waist
7j4
,
— 17>^
8J^ inches inches
14
inches
Neck Height and
inches
Length of Shoulder
to Waist. ..-7>4
lYi inches
—6 —
—
inches
15J/'
inches
5-^4
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. r^ollow instructions as given in First
At waist
Draw
E
to J
is
At
'i inch.
center back line from
At back shoulder, waist, J to 7
is
R
to
T
A
is
through
to J
\'
to length of coat.
AYz inches.
10 inches.
From
7 to 6
Take
the center of 6, inch to 13 and
is 1
and Second Lessons.
inch. 7,
square up to 28 and
3,^
of inch to 14.
down where
line crosses
on
hip,
measure
>4
of
K
and '/•& line take the center from J to 6, and from this point measure y% of an inch to Square down from this point where line crosses on hip, measure J4 of an inch to L. of an inch to 10 and Yi oi an inch to 15.
At waist
28 to 30
Draw new For
8^/2
is
inches length of underarm.
w^aist line
from L
entire front follow
to 30.
same instructions
as given in the semi-fitting coat, with the exception of
shaping the seam to armhole.
Shape seam
Take out
To
JS
to
armhole instead of shoulder.
inch at armhole.
draft front, 'sailor
collar
coat with shawl collar.
Shape as diagram shows. and
lapel follow
same instructions
as
given in
the
semi-fitting
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
4zL-#f
-n*
39
-#B
m DIA^;KA^^
17
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
40
LOOSE SEMI-FITTING COAT. DlAGKAM
18
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
23
inches
Across Back
8>1 inches 14
._
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
151-^
inches
Neck
15
inches
9^ — 7>2 Shoulder Height Front 6 — 834 Shoulder Height Back Neck Height and to Waist -.7 — 1^34
inches
Length of
7^ — 17j4
Length Front of Waist
"4
Shoulder
inches inches inches inches
5)4 inclics
INSTRUCTIONS. as gi\en in First
Follow same instructions
At waist
line
E
to J >j inch.
At back shoulder
T (
.\t
S
to
)n
A
center hack line from
Draw
2-I4
line
back waist to
L
L
to
6
6 to 7
Take
O
to
T
through
\' J
to length of coat.
3 inches.
is
inches.
hack bust
K
and Second Lessons.
U is 2 to K is
Y
to
line J
inches.
3-':^
inches.
34 inch.
is
is
5 inches.
is
-H of an inch.
the center of
L
K, square
down where
line
crosses on hip, measure 34
i'l^'h
io
10
and
34 inch to 15.
Take
the center of 6 and 7, square
of an inch to 13 and
28 to
30
8^2 inches
is
Draw new
waist line
L
front, lapel
shawl
collar.
and
a
to
28 and
down where
line crosses
on
hip,
nteasure
-J^
inch to 14.
underarm measure. to 30.
Shape the two back gores For the
•}
up
as
diagram shows.
collar follow the
same instructions as given
in
the semi-fitting c-oat with
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
18
41
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR.
42
.
Diagram 19
MEASURES. Bust
38 25
Waist Hips Across Chest
41 15J.-2
Neck
15
:
7^ — 17^
Length Front of Waist
inches inches inches inches inches inches
Underarm
inches inches 7^/2 inches 8j4 inches ^15>^ inches 5^ inches S'/i
Across Back Shoulder Height Front 9j/2 Shoulder Height Back 6 Neck Height and to Waist-.-7i4 Length of Shoulder
— —
14
—
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same At waist line
Draw
instructions as given in the First
^
E
to J is inch. center back line from through J
The back T to S is
shoulder,
O
A
to T,
is
\'
and Second Lessons.
to length of coat.
3 inches.
2'>4 inches.
back bust line Y to U is 2 mches. Measure at back waist line from J to K Z-}^ inches. K to L, j4 of an inch. L to 6 is 5 inches. 6 to 7 is 1 inch. and L 6 is 7^/4 inches, Ijj inches more than '4 of the natural waist measure. J, Take the center of L K, square down wiiere line crosses on hip, measure J4 inch to
On
K
10,
^^2
inch
to 15.
%
Take
the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure of an inch to 13 and ^/g, of an inch to 14. 28 to 30 is 83/' inches underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30. Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. Measure hip from to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to ^3, which is 20J.2 inches, j-i of nip measure, 23 to 18 is !/> inches. These I'/i inches are taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 and 17. Measure back neck, O, which is 2'/: inches. Place these 2' 2 inches on point 32 on front neck, and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. Draw front line from througli IS to 45. 27 to is 73^4 inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is U'/i inches, length front of waist. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inclies, the same as back shoulder, T. From on front bust line measure 3H inches to W. At waist line, to 9 is 3 inches. 9 to 8 is 1>4 inches. At hip, 18 to 17 is 4 inches, and 17 to 16 is H/> inches. 22 to 20 at shoulder is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 3, which gives us point 19.
V
A
O
Q
M
O
O
M
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. To make garment double Ijreasted measure from front
line
O
18, 2 inches to 26, 71
line
Q
18 and
and draw
line.
For buttons measure the same distance
Ijack
from front
mark buttons
as
diagram
shows.
To
obtain collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck. 31 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw a line from the bottom of lape! at 26 through 23 to 24. 32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, 54 inch more than the back neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24, 26 1J4 inches, to 25 for standing band, and over to 3S. .Anv desired width of collar. 35 to 36 is 34 inch allowed for spring. Shape back of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. Shape the collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn ]5aper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on the opposite side. How to cut out the two front gores. Lay pattern together at point at bust line and meet the points on shoulder 22 and 20. At point 32 on neck raise 34 inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40.
—
W
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
DlAC.NAM
19
4^
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
44
SEVEN EIGHTH FITFING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE Diagram 20
MEASURES. Bust Waist
Hip Across Chest
Neck Length Front of Waist
..8;^
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
52 39 52 18 18 17
inches inches inches inches inches inches
Underarm
8
Across Back Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back Neck Height to Waist Length of Shoulder
-
17 9
9'^-
7
11
inches inches inches inches inches inches
8 -,-17 S'i
INSTRUCTIONS. A to li V'/i inches, length
Draw line A, B. A to C is S'/i inches. waist in back. E to F is 4 inches the first hip. F to B is 4 inciics the second hip. Square over points C, E, F and B on line A, B. C to D is yi of bust measure plus 1 inch in thi-; c.ise 27 inches. This inch we allowed 1
is
iost in cut-
ting out the pattern. to Q is J/^ inch allowed for breathing. D to G is J4 of bust measure, in this case 6^ inches. G to is ]/s of bust measure plus lyi inches, in this case A-Ji inches. C to Y in a regular 36 size is 2}i inches; we allow ^g more for each size in this case, which is 3J4 inches. C to I is 8^ inches, "X of back measure. Square points D and up and down and square up points G, I, Y on line C, D. .\t back, C to P is 7 inches, second shoulder height back. Y to is 9J-2 inches, first shoulder height back. Square over A and P on line A, B. In squaring over P point R is found crossing line I. R to S is 1 inch, in this case according to the length of the shoulder. Draft back neck, O, and draw back shoulder, to S. At front, to 3 is 9 inches, second shoulder height front. G to is 11 inches, the first shoulder height front. X to 32 in a regular 36 size is Ij^ inches. allowed 14 more for each size, in this case it is 2]/^ inches. X to I in a regular 36 size is 2 inches. allowed 1/16 of an incli more for each size, in this case it is 2"^ inches. Square point 1 to 27 and draw a line. Draft front neck curve from 32 to 27 and draw front shoulder from 32 .to 27, 6% inches, the same as back shoulder, S. Z to 2 is 9;/2 inches, yi of chest measure. Draw arm scye from S through H, 2 to 7. .\t back shoulder to T is 3% inches. T to 29 is '/^ inch taken out. This yi inch we add on point S, 29 to S is 3 inches. take out this 1/2 inch between T and 29 when the figure is round across the back. On back bust line, Y to is 2 mches. .\t waist line E to J is J^ inch. J to 4 is 14^4 inches; in this case we only need 11^ inches, which is The other 2^ inches are taken out between the darts J4 of the waist measure plus lyi mches. 30 and 38, L and K. is 4 inches. .K to L is 1 inch. L to 38 is 7!4 inches. 38 to 30 is 1}4 inches. J to 30 to 37 is lJ/2 inches. In this case, in order to place the seam direct under the arm so the two jide gores will be equal. and L 38 is II14 inches, which is Ij^ inches more than of the natural waist measure which we J,
D
H
H
O
X
A
H
O
We
We
O
O
We
U
K
K
allow in
all
%
%
fitting coats.
Take
the center of L, K; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, J^ inch to 15 and of an inch to 10. Take the center of 6 and 7; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, 1^4 inches to 13 and }4 inch to 14. From the center line of L, at bottom measure 6 inches to 44 and 4 inches to 43. From center line of 6 and 7 at bottom measure 4 inches to SO and 6J4 inches to 81, 28 to 30 is 8 inches length of underarm. Draw a new waist line from L to 30 and shape the two back gores as diagram shows. Measure hip from to 10; IS to 14; 13 to 33, which is 26 inches, !i of hip measure. 33 to 18 is 3 inches. These 3 inches less i/o inch are taken out between tlie front dart at hip line 16, 17. This yi inch less we leave in on all stout figures. Draw front line from through 18 to 45. At neck, from 27 to Q is SJ-^ inches, the highest point of chest. is 16 inches, length waist in front. 27 to Draw new waist line from 30 to M. At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3% inches, the same as back shoulder, O, T. 22 to 20 is 3 inches taken out in this case when the figure has a high chest. These 3 inches we allow on point 27 which gives us point 40. Shape arm scye from S through 28 to 40. At bust line D to is 4 inches. .At waist line to 9 is 3)4 inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. .\t hip line 18 to 17 is 4^ inches. 17 to 16 is 25-2 inches. .Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. For double-breasted, collar and lapel, also how to lay pattern together and cut out, follow the same instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.
%
K
V
Q
M
M
W
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
#2-^ Diagram 20
45
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
46
HIPLESS COAT Diagram
21
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
I'nderarin
Waist
23
inclics
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front-
93^2
Across Chest
l5'/2
inches
Shoulder Height Back
6
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height and
— 17j^
inches
Length of
Length Front of Waist
7;4
8y^ inches 14
to Waist-. --7^4
inches
— 7/2 — 8J4 — 15>j
inches
S-}^
inciics
Shoulder
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box. as semi-fitting coat Diagram 19. Our natural waist line is E to S2. Go un 21-2 inches, which is point W. to J is '/2 inch; J to K is 3'/4 inches; to L is 'ji inch L to 10 is Syi inches; 10 to 12 is 1 inch; 30 is half of L to K. Square down to 14. 11 is half of 10 to 12; square up to 9 and down to 18.
W
K
;
— 14
(^n line 30
^
to 13
come out on hip ji to 41, _ to V; on and shape gores as shown in (hagram. ',
line
9
— 18
come out on hip
:ys
to
17;
Length front of waist from U to 4 is 15 inches; draw waist line 4 to 12 and take out between 3 and 2, 1 inch complete coat according to diagram. For double breasted collar, and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. ;
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
24
23
Diagram
21
47
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
48
LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT. Diagram 22
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights,
Across Chest
ISy? inches
Neck
15
7% — 17>'j
Length Front Waist
8}^ inches 14
Front
Shoulder Heights Back
inches
Neck Height and
inches
Shoulder
— 834 — 6 7j4 — 9>2
to Waist.... /.
/'/i
inches inches
inches
15!'2
inches
^j-i
inches
'4
inch to
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
From V
at
From E
to J
J to
K
to
L
L
to
6
6 to 7
is
measure Ja
and square over.
inch.
inch.
1/2
3->4 inches.
is
inch.
'/>
is
and
10,
I
'2
K
^
Measure
is
and square down, and where
of inch to 13,
on hip measure
7, .^g
square up
lo
2S and
down where
line crosses
on hip.
of inch to 14.
7 inches underarm measure.
Shape the two back gores
as
diagram shows.
Follow same instructions for the front as given length in front, which
This coat
line crosses
inch to 15.
the center of 6 and
28 to 30
E
inches.
Take the center of L
Take
and Second Lessons.
waist line measure up I'j inches to
is 5
K
in First
is
is
cut without a lap.
16 inches.
in semi-fitting coat,
with the exception of the
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 22
49
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
50
MONTE CARLO BOX COAT. Diagram
2}
MEASURES. 38
inches
L'nderarm
.25
inches
.\cross
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
ISyi inches
Bust
Waist
Neck
Back
14
Neck Height and Length
inclies
— &/i inches 8>4 — 6^ inches — 13j/ inches
to Waist.. /j^l
5^
Shoulder
of
inches
10'4
Shoulder Height Baci<
inches
13
-
8J/2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. It
is
necessary after the regular shoulder heights are taken to allow an extra jj inch on front shoulder, ^-^ inch on back shoulder.
Follow same instructions as given
Length of
At waist
On
coat, S2 inches.
from
line
bust line from
Square poitU
22.
1')
.^
L
22
is is
y'j
line
Draw back
inch.
from 4
from 18
from
through
.-\.
L
to
13,
4.
to 6
is
from 22 through 6
hi]j line
line
2 inches.
which locates point
straight line
At front on
to
to
For back part on waist
Draw
and Second Lessons.
in First
to
M
1
is
to
inch. 13.
inch.
1
This completes
Draw
l>ack.
front line
from
11
O— M
through
to full
length.
For front part on hip from 4
Draw
straight line
is
from 22 through
Allow \y2 inches from box
To
to 7
line, as
1
inch.
7 to
shown
10.
at
Connect 10 with
16,
bottom.
place dart at shoulder, measure from (j on bust line, i-V^ inches over, from this point 1>4 inches to W,
At shoulder from 9 12,
to 8
is
2 inches
which gives us point
3.
;
8 to 14
is
5 to 3.
—
In cutting out the dart place dart together at shoulder, points 8
Square over shoulder, This coat
is
raise shoulder yi
cut without a collar or lap,
These 3 inches add on point
3 inches taken out.
Reshape armscye from
inch to point 9
—8— 14
down
14.
to 3.
^
'
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
2^
51
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
52
TWO-PIECE COAT. Diagram 24
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
15^
inches
Shoulder Heights
Neck
14
inches
Neck Height and
inches
Length of Shoulder
Length Front of Waist
TYi,
— 17>4
8J^ inches 14
inches
— 7y2 Back 8^4 — 6 Waist... 7^4 — 9^^
to
inches
inches
15'/2
inches
S^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box, only as semi-fitting coat.
BACK. 1.
E
K
to J at waist line is I inch, J to down to 14 full length of
square to 15 2.
is
XYi inches; 14 to 16
Draft back from 22 through distance on armscye S H inch from
W
—
L
is
5 inches;
43—J ;
5 inches
garment
now
B
;
and K to L 1 inch 23 is one-half of K and L; from F to 43 is one-half inch at hip line 14
to
;
;
22
is
^
inch.
W— K
to A and 15 through to T T is about half the is draft part of your front from 16 through ;
V V
^
;
to T.
FRONT. 1.
Measure underarm 83/2 inches from H to 1 and length front waist 17J/2 inches from U 8 and draw from 8 to L take out on line H between 1 and 2, Ya, inch and make dart ;
to to
front dart place directly under bust, taking out about 3 about 4 inches below waist line 1 inch from 5 and 6, making point 4 about 3>-j inches below bust line and point 7 about 7 inches below waist line. ;
2.
D
Q
is J^ inch; now draw front line of jacket from 9 through to 12; place button stand, line 11, 2-3-4 inches back from front line 12 and double breasted front line 13 20, 3 inches forward and add from 20 to 19 and 18 to 17 1 inch for turning in.
10 to 9 to
U
is
1^
inches;
and down
to
Q
—
COLLAR. Bring your shawl collar down to about 2 inches above waist line front draw a straight line up from 20, going in at X about 1 inch, and up to 34 from X, 2V\ inches, which is neck length back O A; square points 34 to 35, I34 inches and to 32, 3 inches; add for spring of collar back, from 32 to 33, Ya inch. ;
—
Draft under collar from 35 through 37 to 38 draft shawl effect from 20 to ii as shown to get spring of collar draw a line 30 36 and make 27 and 31, 1^ inches from 30 and draft curve to 36 break line 34 20 under and trace shawl 20 38 y? to get front shawl ;
20-39—37.
—
—
;
;
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
53
B 2S 17
18
Diagram 24
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
54
LOOSE BOX COAT. Diagram 25
MEASURES. inches -3 inches 41 inches 1?/j inches inches 15 173<2 inches
liust
L
-^i"^
Waist Hip Across Chest -
Neck Length Front Waist
Syj inches
iiderarni
Across Back 10 Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height IJack Syi Neck Height and to Waist.— 7^4 Length of Shoulder
inches inches inches 153^2 inches 5% inches
14
—8 — 6j4 —
7^—
INSTRUCTIONS. It is necessary after the regular shoulder heiglits are taken to allow an extra Ij inch on front shoulder; ^s ine-h on back shoulder. From .\ to C is />'_> inches, neck height in hack. Draw a line to 15, which is 52 inches.
A
ISyi inches, length of waist in Ijack. 19 to L is 4 inches, the first hip L to F is 4 inches, second hip. 15. Square over on points C 19, L F and 15 on line From C to D is >4 of bust measure plus 1^ inches, in this case 20>^ inches. to G is 34 of l>ust, in this case 5^^ inches. is 3^ inch allowed for breathing. D to of bust plus l',2 inches, in this case 4 1-16 inches. U to Tis
.•\
to 19
is
;
A
D
Q
%
C
to 20 is 234 inches. This change of yk inch more or less is according to larger or smaller sizes. C to 1 is 7 inches, yi of back measure. Square points D and 5 up and down on line C D. Square up points (i I and 20 on line C I). C to P is 63/4 inches, the second shoulder height back. 20 to O is 8>2 inches, the first shoulder height hack. Square over A and P on line A 15. In squaring over 1^ point R is found cmssing R to S is >^ inch. Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder from O to S, which is .1^4 inches. inches, second shoulder height front. .\\. front, from 5 to 39 is 834 Square point 39. G to X is IO34 inches, the first shoulder heiglit front.
Square
Draw
X
line
I.
to 29, 3 inches for this style coat only. 4, which is 5-Ki inches.
shoulder from 29 to
Square down X to 1, 2 inches. S(|uare over point 1 to 27. of chest measure. Draw neck curve from 29 through 27 to 24. From Z to 2 is 7->4 inches, Draw armscye from .S 28 5 2 to 4. Draw front line from 24 through Q J\I to 40. This com])letes the box. At back waist line measure from 19 to 17. '2 inch. Draw straight line from .A. through 17, K, 16 to B full length. inches to 28. .\t the back shoulder from S measure 43^ At waist line in back measure from 17 to 8, 6/2 inches. .\t second hip measure from 16 to 18, 7 inches. Draw straight line from 7 down through 18 to 13 and up from 7 slightly shaped tlirougli 8 to This completes the back part. 28. from 8 to 9, 2 inches. I<"or front part at waist line measure Draw a straight line down from 9 to 10 and up from 9 to 28. To place dart in coat at shoulder measure from O on the bust line 3!4 inches o\er, and from this point down measure 1 inch to \\ from 33 to 14 is 3 inches taken out. The.se 3 inches .\t top shoulder from 32 to 33 is 2>^ inches, are added on the remaining shoulder from_14 to 3. To place the dart under the arm. measure from 5 to 6. 1 inch, and 6 to 41. 10 inches. Take the center of 6 and 41 and shape out ;4 inch each side as shown in diagram. To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow diagram 19, page 42.
— ——
.
how much spring the collar requires, lay the liack part of coat shoulder to shoulder on the front part, which is shown in diagram indicated by ditto marks. Square over from the back line of coat A C. From ])oint C to 36 is 634 inches plus '^ inch, which is the amount required for spring. Place the spring in the collar by drawing a line through the center of collar at the top of shoulder In order to find out
.Allow
from point 30 to 12. from 12 to 22, ^y^ inches, and from 12
to
11. ?i^2
inches,
which
gi\-es
us the
amount of
spring required. Trace out the front part of collar from 30 to 22 to 37 to 30. Trace the back part of collar from 30 to 11, 36. 21. 34 to ,iO. which gives us the two parts of collar, as shown in the lower diagram of coat.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
2
5
55
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
56
ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. Diagram 26
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
L'nderarm
Waist
23
inches
Across Rack
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
15>2 inches
Xeck
13
inches
Length Liack
— 17>^
inches
Shoulder
Length Front of Waist
7}i
SjA inches 14
Shoulder Heights to
F)aci<
Waist
— 7X' 8^ — 6 7]4 — 15^
Oyi
inches inches
inches inches
5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Draft the same as tight fitting jacket to first hip. except back, which is straight down lo The l)ack of this garment is always open full length of garment. 58 inches, to point 49. ^nd has a plait as shown.
2.
Cut jacket through between waist and hip as shown 15
3.
Skirt
Draw
—
13,
or any other shape desired.
continuation of box as shown. 35 to 41 is hip to 41 is same measure as 15 54. From 36 to .\t fullest part of hip take out a dart in V shape 2 35 is waist curve same as 15 to 13. inches 31 32, and make same about 4)'! inches deep, which seam is covered with a pocket, as diagram shows. :
measure
first
and second hip
less back, distance
lines, a
54^V.
—
36
—
4.
35 to 47 is a straight line coming slightly out at bottom. The sweep at bottom is Measure 42?4 inches from 49 to 46: 2j4 times bust measure, making same 4234 inches. 47 to 50, wl'.irb is the point given by meisure. Connect 36 witn 50 and add plait as shown 36 34 and .50—48. 36 to 50 is the length 15 to 46, and after obtaining this point shape sweep from 50 to 47, as diagram shows.
From
—
5.
Collar
:
Turn down
collar.
which follows as diagram.
The
rules are
same
as notch collars, with the exception of shajie,
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 26
57
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN LOOSE COAT RAGLAN SLEEVE
58
.
Diagram 27
MEASURES. 38 25
Bust
Waist Hips Across Chest
inches inches 41 inches 15^ inches 15 inches 171/2 inches
-
Neck Length Front of Waist
7]/^
—
8^
Underarm Across Back Shoulder Height Front IQShoulder Height Back S''^Neck Height and to Waist. ...714 Length of Shoulder
inches inches 8 inches 6J4 inches 15>4 inches 5^ inches
14
—
INSTRUCTIONS. coat follow same instructions as given in the loose coat. For raglan, the back part. Draw a line from C) to the side of armhole. Place the square on that line, and let the right angle rest on S, which produces point 11. 11 to 21 is 1 inch. Shape the top of shoulder from U, 21 to T. The forepart, to 7, is 1 inch. 7 to 5 is j-x inch. Draw line from 5 to 18, place the square to that line and let the right angle rest on U, which produces point 24. 24 to 23 is 1J4 inches. 18 to 8 is ^/^ inch. Shape the shoulder from 8, li to 5. From' I to T is inches, same distance as the back sleeve, D to I. Place a notch at T and a notch at 5. .Measure the distance on the straight line from T to t), I<"or
H
2%
which is 8 inches. Measure the distance from 8 to 5 on the straight line, which is 10;/> inches. Measure the distance from 18 to .^. in this case 5)4 inches, the length of shoulder. This completes the raglan.
PLAIN SLEEVE
AND RAGLAN
Diagram 28
MEASURES. Bust Half of Back
.'....i8
inches
7 inches
Length Length
to
Flbow
to
Wrist
19^^ inches :
2934 inches
•.
INSTRUCTIONS.
M
A
Draw
to is 7 inches, y^ of back measure. a line .A B. .\ to L is 1914 inches, length to elbow. 8 to B is 29yj inches, the length to wrist. Square over points M, L and B. to S is 9)4 inches, 34 of Inist measure. Square S down, which gives us point H. to is J4 of bust measure less 1 inch, in this case 4-?4 inches. Square over to point Q. N is one-half the distance between .S and .M. to I is 1 inch. Square over point I to C. to P is J4 inch for top sleeve. T to is 1 inch. R to is 3^ of bust measure plus 34 inch, in this case 5'4 inches. to is 1 inch. is the center of and Jj. Draw line from to J is 3^ inch. through J over. For undersleeve P to J is 3)4 inches, and G to E is 6 inches. .At top of sleeve to is 2)4 inches. Shape top of sleeve from I, O, 1^, R, G, E, L lo I. Shape the undersleeve from Q, R, E, G, \". I', C to O. This completes the plain coat sleeve.
M
,
M
D
D
M y
R
U
H K
H
K
G
G
O
N
For raglan sleeve
Y
to
W
is
the
same distance
as the top shoulder of coat
from
5
to
18
— 10)4
inches.
A
^
inch less than the distance from T to () at the liack ]«irt of raglan. This '<( inch eased over the shoulder in back. Sweep at point backward, pivoting at point Y. Sweep from point A forward, pivoting at point I. Sweep from jioint 8 backward and forward, ]iivoting to 8 is 5)4 inches, length of shoulder. at point O. This marks two cross lines, one through X and F. X to 9 is ]'l inch. F In 10 is '4 inch. This is the 34 inch taken ofl' from IS lo 8 at top shoulder front. Shape the top of sleeve from O to 10 and O to 9. 1
to
is
is
Draw
W
Y
X
a straight line from to and from I to F. is 1 inch, and shape the sleeve from through 2 to X. 4 to 3 is )4 inch, and shape the sleeve from T through 3 to F. From 6 to 7 is 1 inch, from 5 to 6 is )4 inch. Dotted line shows where the sleeve is cut through with a seam on top, as .shown in diagram. 1
to 2
Y
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 27
Diagram 28
59
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
6o
HOW TO PLACE DART IN FRONT OF RAGLAN Diagram 29
It is
4 to
necessary in all loose coats to place a dart from the shoulder to the bust line, in order to In this case cut out the entire front of raglan, give the garment proper fit over the bust. Measure over from the center front lay another piece of paper under for a new front. line at point 3 on the bust line, 3^/4 inches to 4. 5 is
From
IJ^ inches below the bust line.
point 5 square a line line
To
open up to
down
to the
bottom of the
coat, as the dotted line
shows.
Split this
.^.
place dart, at shoulder measure from the top of neck over to 1, 2 inches. Connect 1 with Pivot on point 5, open the shoulder from 1 to 2, 5, and cut through on this dotted line. 2 inches for dart which swings the bottom of coat from 8 to 7 and 9 to 10. Mark out the entire coat from A to neck, 1. 2, to 6.
Pivot at point 6, swing point 10 back to 9 and 7 to placing the dart at shoulder.
Reshape the bottom, which gives us a drop
at the
8,
which gives us the same fullness before
front part of coat, as the diagram shows.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 29
61
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
62
HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A BLOCK PATTERN.
LOOSE COAT.
Diagram 30
IXSTRUCTIONS. Draw
line
41 to 39
is
from il 1
2
to 2.
inch.
Shape from 2 through 39
Back
T 38
is is
part.
the deepest point from armscye.
is
Draw
line
to
from
"hi.
O
to T.
the deepest part of armscye in Ijack.
about the center of O. T.
Square over 38
to
yj
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
1
inch.
Shape as shown. For double breasted
collar
and
lapel,
follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 30
63
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
64
HOW
TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram
Lay pattern together
as diagram shows.
To
place a seam under the arm, measure .Square 5 to 6, 11 inches.
At bottom, from This
may
2 to 8
may
is
down from
the front neck, 3 to
16^2 inclies, and draw line from 6 to 7 to
5,
8 inches.
8.
be cut in a one piece coat or with a seam as desired.
At armhole, from 6 It
31
to 7 is 4 inches.
be cut higher or lower
if
desired.
Shape armhole as shown. For double breasted given in diagram 19, page 42.
collar
and
lapel
follow
same instructions
as
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
31
65
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
66
DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DEEP ARMHOLE. Diagram 32
Draw
line
A
to
B
;
A
sleeve; 7 to 9
to 7
is 3-34
underarm of coat; 9
Draw
a straight line
Shape sleeve
from
as shown.
5^ of bust measure, 4J4
is
inches, to 2
A
is
to 11,
1
inches
inch less on each inch
1^
inches; 8 to
from
11 to C,
1
is
from
;
7 to
B
is
we go down
full
length
from 6
to 7 at
18>2 inches, distance
1^4 inches.
A
to 5,
and from C
to 4
is
5 inches.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
D®-
67
4)B Diagram 32
—
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
68
COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT. Diagram 33
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
IS^^ inches
Shoulder Height Back
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height and
inches
Length of
7% — 17j^
Length Front of Waist
85^ 14
9>'^^ 6
to Waist.. -.7>4
Shoulder
nches nches
Jj/j
nches
— 8>4
nches
ISyi
nches
5)4
nches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow diagram 19, page 42 for a semi-fitting coat. This coat is cut with an underarm gore and body. From 28 to 62 is 1 inch. 62 to 50 and 54 is l-j4 inches. Square up at 62 17^^ inches to 67, length of underarm gore. Square over from 67 to 68 and 66, 1 inch. Connect 68, 50, 66 and 54. Connect 50 with 64 and 54 with 64, and this completes the undregore of body. Cutting a collarless coat you always allow an extension from the natural neck line. we allow lyi inches raise for the back and front of neck.
Back neck,
Neck
O
A
to 53, point, 32 to 56.
Raise
-)4
Draw
line
In this case
to 52.
inch of the back shoulder from
from 50 through
H
R
to
51, for side
back gore.
to 61, 6 inches.
62 to 63 is 33/2 inches. From 60 draw a line through 63 to 60, which is \7}.'2 inches, length of undergore sleeve. Square on line 60 50 to 58, 6 inches. 60 to 59 is 1>^ inches. Now shape sleeve 52 through T, 51. 61, 58, 59 through 63 to the side gore from 50 through 6 14 to the length of coat over to 44 up through 15 L and T. This completes the side gores as diagram shows.
—
THE FRONT SIDE GORE AND SLEEVE. Draw Draw
a line a line
from 54 through 1 to 65, 6^ from 54 through 63 to 98.
inches.
—
Square over on 98 to 47 4 inches. 47 to 48 is lyi inches. This lyj inches we lost between 22 and 20 on front shoulder. From 98 to 46 is I3/2 inches.
Draw
line from 46 to 54. Reshape sleeve from 46 slightly curve through 63 to 54. Shape sleeve and body from 20 through 3—^0 65 down to 48 over to 46 front from 54 30 13 the length of coat over to 12 up tlirough 16 8 and This completes the sleeve and front side gore. To make garment double breasted. Go out from the front line 2j/2 inches and the same distance back for buttons. At neck, 55- ^27, take out 1 inch and shape as diagram shows. This completes the diagram.
— —
—
—
— —W
side of body, 20.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
66
Diagram
67
3)
68
C9
—
3
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
70
SHAWL COLLAR CUT WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER. SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram 34
INSTRUCTIONS. At
neck,
from 16 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw line from 26 through 23 Shape collar from 12 through break line to 7.
to
13.
From
l.-i
12
to
is
1^4
inches.
front shoulder,
.\t
from
inch allowed for spring.
5 to 3 is V4
Draw
line
from 12
— —20— 13
to 4.
—— — —
Trace out front part of collar
To
12
13
This l''or
l'"or
j/\
inch
we
14
—
take out
13
lose
add on
2f>
13,
and give the shape of
.Shape dart
inch.
44
7 to 4.
—
trace out lapel, turn paj)er under on line
Between
.\t
3
-I
lapel at 19 to 17.
down
lapel
This completes lapel and front part of
stand band of collar, from 24 to 2?
back shoulder, from 2 to collar
Shape back
on
l)ack
collar
1
is '4
i'l"-"!!
shoulder, 12 to
from
—
2.5—2-1
1''4
is
10 to 11
making same length
22— 10— l^S— 20— 13— 12, 1
11,
as
shown
inches.
raise for spring.
iS,
collar.
Square over on
2y2 inches, the neck measure of back
—
side.
5 inches to 9.
coat. back part of collar, 13 to 24 is break line. 26 24, any desired length for collar, in case 15 inches to Place the neck curve, 20 22, as shown in dotted line. dotted line.
Shape
on opposite
is
''4
inch raise for spring.
as front shoulder.
as shown.
12 to 4.
in
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 34
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
72
SET ON COLLAR
AND
LAPEL.
SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN.
Diagram 35
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw .\t
from 26 to 16. Break line. Draw
front shoulder 7 to 8
Draw
16 to 23
line
line
from 20
is
line
—23—7
^
to 3,
1
—7—23 —20 down
is
I34 inches.
Draw
line
from 23
coat,
coat 21
—
17, as
shown
24
21
2
line
in
dotted
back shoulder, from 10 to 9 17 to 11, to
1
is
j^i
making same
12
9
line.
line
24
For stand band,
34 inch allowed for spring. length as front shoulder, 17 to 4. is
inch spring.
— — — — — — —23— 26— 16 and cut away on on
Shape back collar from 25
to 26.
to 26.
23^ inches, neck measure of back. Square on lireak as dotted line shows, any desired length, in this case 21 inches. is
Place the neck curve of the back part of from 24 to 25 is 1J4 inches. At Draw line on back shoulder from 11 to 12 is 3 inches taken out. 3
For front part of
inch; 22 to 20
inch allowed for spring. 4 to 5 is 3 inches taken out for close-fitting collar over arm.
to 4.
Shape front collar from 26 to 5 For back part of collar 22 to 24
—26 over
is
20 to 26.
17
20, as
set
lapel
shown. on same
line of coat,
26 to 20.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
35
—
—
9
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
74
TWO
KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN.
PIECE
Diagram 36
INSTRIXTIONS. To
place the
10 to 11
is
from .\t
seam of coat under the arm, take
off tlie front
1
to 2.
inch.
1
Draw straight line from to 11. The distance 2 inches. E 1 2 and 11 10 add on the underarm of back coat, D
—
1
—
we take
— — N —M.
front measure from 3 to 4, 20 inches, square over to 9, 26^ inches, square 6 to 3 is 2'^ inches. to 7 7 '4 inches square over 7 to 8. 2'i> inches.
Draw
from
line
11
Ct
— 9 —8
\()
— — 1.^
14.
oft'
the
up on
line
front
—
-I
This completes the front.
BACK PART. I'Vom
Draw
X
to
P
<)\er
H
line
19 inches.
is
to
from
I
Square over
1)4 inches.
M—L —J —
I
K
to
—B—A.
L
is
to J
25^4 inches.
P)4 inches.
C
to
Square up
B
is
^
J to
H
inch raise.
This completes the back part.
8 inches.
Square
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 36
75
2
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
76
LOOSE FRONT JACKET
3-8
INCH SEAM ALLOWED.
Diagram 37
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
L'nderarni
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
15^
inches
Shoulder Heights Back
15
inches
Xeck Height
— 17
inches
Length of
Across Chest
.'
Neck Length Front of Waist
7
83^ inches 14
inches
— 7^ 8J4 — 6 714 — 15^
inches
9}^
of Waist
inches inches
5%
Shoulder
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Draw C D
—
line
-*i£i¥-'-^
A — B. A
is bust line; C to height back E is waist
From E 2.
C
is
7^
inches, length in back;
C
to
P
inches, second shouldei
is
and 16 inches from A. B are 4 inches apart, which are
;
line,
first and second hip points. Square to F and F to points A, P, C, E, F, on line A B. of bust measure jilus 3 inches, which is allowed for seams. to is 22 inches, or to is 5 inches, Y^ oi Yz bust measure, 20 inches, and square up. is 4 inches, Y& G to of Y2 t)ust measure plus \Y2 inches and square up and down. C to I is inches is inches, and square up. across back, and square up. C to Y to is 8f^ inches, first shoulder height back. R to S is 1 inch. to 3 is inches, and intersect point to 1 is 2Y inches; square line 1 to get neck line is 9^/;^ inches; with line. G to front. Z to 2 is 7-]/\ inches (chest measure plus seam.j
—
^
D G
D
H
7^
Y
2^
O
H
7^
X
X
Draft neck curve back A O and shoulder back O S. Shoulder front, line X to line 3 same length as back shoulder, O S. Draft armscye, starting from S through
—
is
the
H—
to line 3. 3.
K
A
E
1%
for back line. is to J is 1J4 inches, and connect J with J to inch L to 4 is 3J4 inches 4 to 5 is 1 inch 5 to 6 is 2>Ya inches and The proportions for gores as just given are the same as escribed in 1
;
;
;
;
1
with the exception that Fine center of K L, 4
—
F
V
^
of an inch
— 6— 5,
7,
inches;
6 to 7 is diagram
K 1^ 8,
to
L
is
inches.
page
8,
allowed for seams. and square down. is
10 and 15 are 34 inch from center line; 11 and 12 are Y?, inch from 1J4 inches. center line; 14 is 3,^ inch and 13 is 34 inch from center line. Draft gores and back through just given points as diagram shows. Afeasure hip the same as The front collar and described in previous lessons, allowing 3 inches more for seams.
4.
to
lapel,
is
including the dart, are the same as described in diagram
8.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram)?
77
—
;
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
78
NINETEEN-GORE CORSET JACKET. Diagram 38
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
inches
inches inches
Length of Shoulder
41
Across Chest
15jX inches
Neck
15
inches
7^ — 17>^
14
— 8)4 — Shoulder Height Back Syi Waist.— 7>4 — 15^^ Neck Height and
Hip
Length Front of Waist
Syi inches
10'4
Shoulder Height P>ont
63/4
to
5->4
inches inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. box, shoulder lieights, collar and front are exactly the same as previous jacket lessons, with the exception of divisions of waist and hip.
1.
The
2.
Waist:
A
37 without seams in back. E to J is J4 inch and is straight up and down to to 42 is yi inch; L is yi inch; L to 41 is l'/4 inches; 41 to inch: to is to Vs J is 1J4 inches; 42 to 22 is yi inch; 22 to T is 1)4 inches; T to 30 is V4 inch; 30 to 40 is lyi inches; 4 to 5 is 1 !4 inches; 5 to 6 is lj4 inches; 6 to 7 is 1 inch; 7 to 8 is ly4 is lj4 inches inches 8 to 9 is Kj inch 9 to 34 is 1 J4 inches 34 to 33 is ^^ inch 33 to Increase and decrease width of gores for larger or smaller sizes. to LT is ->4 inch.
K
W 3.
;
K—
—
—
W
:
;
;
—
L 41^M 42 22; T 30; A 5 into half and draw straight lines down and up and down between 4 and 5. From these guide lines just obtained, measure on fullness over hip on each ^ore. Allow for this fullness J4 inch on each side of guide line, as is
Divide
;
;
readily seen in diagram. 4.
M
M
K
The seams on shoulders
mt^fx
are 2 inches apart and are cut through by gores y^ inch is to be 38 show. 19, 20 15, 16 taken out in darts on hip line in front, as 14 17, 32 Now measure hip, applying the same rule as in previous lessons. Length of this jacket to suit customer.
—
—
—
—
;
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
38
7Q
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
80
ETON JACKET. Diagram 39
MEASURES. .38
inches
Underarm
.25
inches
.\cross
..41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
15>4 inches
Shoulder Heights Back
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height
— 17^
inches
Length of Shoulder
Bust
-
Waist Hips
.
Length Front of Waist
7^4
8>2 inches
Back
14
of ^^'aist
inches
— 8j4 — 6 7}i — 15>4
inches
Si/i
inches
9>4
/'/z
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given 2.
in
diagram
O—
80. except the front.
—
18 front line D add 1 inch to 27, and draft line as shown through just given The dart 8 to 9 is 2j/ inches wide and 3 inches below bust points to give vest effect. line. The bottom of Eton may be made to any desired shape.
From
This Eton shows a heavy braid trimming around the edges.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
DlAGI^M 39
8!
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
82
RUSSIAN BLOUSE. Diagram 40
MEASURES. Bust
-58
Waist
2:i
Hip
41
Across Chest
15/^ 15
Neck Length Front Waist
7]/^
—
1/J^
inches inches inches inches inches inches
.
Under Arm 8>^ 14 Across Back 9j^ Shoulder Height Front 7>^ 8^ 6 Shoulder Height, Back Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 15>4 Length of Shoulder 5^
— — —
inches inches inches inches inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in First and to J is l>j inches. At waist line 7 is 9>4 inches. to J In this case we need 634 inches, which is ]A, of
Second Lessons.
E
l':\ inches, the waist measure in back. inches are taken out between the two gores, L, K, lj4 inches, 6, 7,
The other 3j4
K is 3^4 K L is l>i
J
2-
inches.
inches. inches.
and 6, 7, is 2 incnes. 614 inches, y^, of waist measure in back. 6 is L and J, K At back shoulder, S to 29 is AVz inches. 28 to 30 is 8^2 inches, length of underarm measure.
L
6
3 inches
is
waist line from L to 30. Shape back gores as diagram shows. From the box line at the first hip in front measure from 78 to 18, 3 inches. Draw front line from 27 to 18 27 to D is 7 inches, the highest point of chest.
Draw new
;
M
17 inches, length waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. To place dart measure from D on front bust line over 4 inches, and from this point measure down to W, 3 inches. to 9 is 6>^ inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. inches. at the top of dart measure down to 69, From point
27 to
is
M
W
From tv measure down
to 70, lYi inches.
Shape dart at bottom of blouse as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted measure from 18 to 71, Yi inch. 71 to 26 is 6 inches. From box line to 26 is V/z inches. Shape the front from 71 to 26. To obtain shawl collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck, 21 Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24.
to
22s,
1
inch.
32 to 21 is 2j4 inches, Y^ inch more than back neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24, 26. 1^4 inches to 2,^, standing band, and over to 35. 3.'i to 36 is 34 inch for spring. Shape the back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar. To trace lapel, break on line 26, 24. turn the paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on opposite side.
TO MAKE SKIRT.
Draw
line
from 6
Square up on
to 8,
which
line 6. 8 to 9,
is
measure, 9^/2 inches plus K' 'nch. which is 10. inches, which Y% of bust measure, 4y4 inches plus 1J4
!4 of luist
which
is
is
6J4 inches.
and shape waist from 9 through 7 to 6. 7 and 9, 12^' inches, J4 of waist measure. What remains over is eased in at the waist line. Measure down from waist line to dotted line 4 inches to 14, 15. Measure 14, 15 20t inches, ;4 of hip measure. of an inch from 14 to 11. Come out from front line on hip 6 to 17 is 18 inches at front and 9 to 12 at back is 8 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. Draw front line from 6 to 11 to 13. To make inverted pleat measure from 9 to 10, 2 inches at the top of waist line. 8 to 7
is
3 inches,
Measure from
6,
—
%
At the bottom 12 to 16, 4 inches. To form inverted pleat take up on
line 9. 12,
and meet center back
line,
10,
16.
_
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 40
83
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
84
TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. Diagram
41
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
9j/2
Across Chest
155^ inches
Shoulder Heights Back
8J4
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height of Waist
— 17
inches
Length of Shoulder
7
Length Front of Waist
83^ inches 14
—
inches
lYz inches
—6 7^4 — 15>^
inches inches
5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. For making jacket use exactly the same rules and descriptions used in tight fitting jacket. Diagram in this instance shows a separate lapel, and is made exactly like the tight fitting Also notice that jacket is jacket, with the exception of the shape of collar and lapel. cut through from back gore, point L to front of garment point 40, to which separate skirt is
fastened.
—
Square points ii 32 from 23. li is 34 of bust measure plus 1 inch, 4 inches all around waist, making hip from Z}> through 31 to 2)1, which is 3<2
Skirts
2>2
10 to 19 all
is
3-2
inch;
draw
line
down through
around from waist Hne.
pletes diagram.
to 2>1> is 34 of bust measure, 9^^ inches; 23 to 5j4 inches. From ZZ to 10 and from 32 to 13 is measure. 23 to 31 is 3 inches. Draft waist line K. of waist measure, less back. J
—
19 from ii\ make skirt 8 inches deep and 8 inches .^dd plaits on back to correspond with jacket, which com-
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTEK FOR WOMEN.
19(3>
Diagram
41
85
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
86
LOOSE FRONT JACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST. Diagram
42.
MEASURES. —-
38
inches
Underarm
2i
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
ISYi inches
Shoulder Heights Back
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
-
-
•-
Length Front of Waist
7^ — 17^
8>4 inches
inches
Length Back
inches
Length
of
14
'.
to
Waist
Shoulder
9^^
—
7y2 inches
8^ — 6 7^ — ISj/^ 5^ 1
inches
inches inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Follow tight titting jacket for back, side gores, back gores, and front, then shape gores and back to any desired length as diagiam shows.
Using the center front of the tight fitting jacket, shape vest as diagram shows, about 2 The vest in this diagram is the shaded portion of drawing. inches below waist line. 2.
Measure for shawl collar 1 inch from deepest point at neck line 23. and draw straight Now draft line from neck curve line from bottom of front point .^3 through point 40. front line X to 21 upward and make this distance the same length as neck curve back A C), giving point 21. Placing square on line 53 2Z, draw a line from 21 through
—
Draft shawl, starting at point S2> to top of collar (neck back) and draft under collar from point 25, touching shawl as diagram shows. point 24 to 25.
—
line 24 53 by turning paper under and trace shawl toward front as diagram shows. Place separate piece of paper under the under collar and trace out according to diagram. The vest must be traced out the same way by laying paper under front.
Break
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 25
24
Diagram 42
87
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
88
LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST. Diagram 43
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
15>4 inches
Neck
15
Length Front of Waist
7^ — 17^^
Syi inches 14
Shoulder Heights Back-
inches
Neck Height of Waist
inches
Length of Shoulder
— 8^4 — 6 7% — 15>4 Dyi
7l'j
5^
inches inclics
inches inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Use Lesson No.
9
Shoulder heights and armscye are same as tight
3,
From
1
for box.
is 2 inches, and shape as shown. waist measure, 6y4 mclies. E is held in with strap. Measure from 5 to 9, 6^4 inches, of waist, distance from 9 dart 9 8 2^4 inches, and shape dart as shown.
4
to J J to
5 to is
4
34
^
—
4.
fitting vest.
Collar
is
the
same
as described in
diagram
4L
— 18
must be taken out
i;
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 25,
•L
89
24 21
•)A •)P
Diagram 4)
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
90
TIGHT FITTING VEST. Diagram 44
MEASURES. 3S
inches
Underarm
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
Shoulder Heights,
15'
inches
15 1/3/2
Bust
Waist
-
-
-
Hips Across Chest
-
Neck Length Front of Waist....
7>^
—
8J/2
inches
14
..
inches
inches
— 7^4 Shoulder Height Back., 6 — 834 Neck Height and Waist.. 734 — 1534
inches
inches
Length
5^
inches
Front
93^
inches inches
to
of
Shoulder
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Use Lesson No.
A
1
for box.
7 inches, length in back; P to C is SJ4 inches, second shoulder height back; square is Gyi inches, 34 width of back. line S is about 1 inch from F P to is C to R; to is 234 inches, which distance changes; 234 inches, this distance to is 8 inches, first shoulder changes 34 inch more or less for respective sizes
C
to
A
is
and P on
A
A—
R
;
Y
N
;
Y
O
height back.
H
X
is 9 inches, first shoulder height to 3 is 7 inches, second shoulder height front G to front I is 2 inches from X, this varies according to measure, allowing 34 inch more for E to J is 1 inch connect J with A, and larger sizes and 34 inch less for smaller sizes. shape slightly as shown. ;
;
;
Draft
line
Draft
line
A— O. X 27.
.\rmscye for vest line
Connect
is
always
1
with
K
is
334 inches
in
back as shown.
;
K
to
L
inch larger
is
1
Front and darts are same as tight
Allow for button stand
%
3 to line
S.
shows the jacket and the heavy
gore
J to
O
all
line all
inch
;
L
X
is
same distance
as
O — S.
around than the regular jacket. around it the vest armscye.
to 4
is
2->^
inches
:
4 to
5 is
2 inches
The dotted
;
now
draft
fitting jacket.
inch.
Draft bottom to any shape desired.
From
27 on neck diagram shows a standing collar.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 44
91
:
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
92
EMPIRE JACKET. Diagram
45
MEASURES. liust
-58
-
25 41
Waist
Hip Across Chest
15/
-
Neck
15
7^—17/
Length Front of Waist
inches inches inches inches inches inches
Syi Underarm 14 Across Back 9>4— 7/2 Shoulder Height Front 6 Shoulder Height Back 8}i Neck Height and to Waist....7>^ IS/ Length of Shoulder Sji
— —
inches inches inches inches inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons
Follow same
Our
natural waist line
is
V.
Measure from the natural waist
L
to J is is to
K
J
K
to
L
L
to
6
G to 7
is
up 2
inclics to E.
5 inches.
is is
line
/ inch. 3/ inches. ^ of an inch. 1
inch.
—K,
Square down where line crosses on first hip 5. inch to 15. Where line crosses on second hip, measure J-4 of an inch to 38 and 1 inch to 39. to [J is 2 inches. On bust line, Shape as shown. to T is 3 inches and T to S is 2-}i inches. At back shoulder, 28 to 30 is 6/ inches underarm measure. Take the center of 6 and 7, which gives us point 9. Square down where line crosses first hip, measure Ya inch to 14 and }'4 inch to 13. Where line crossc-; s.'' -(-nd hip, measure J4. mch to 37 and 1/ inches to 29, and shape a^ shown. of hip measure. Measure hip from 8 to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 20/ inches, 17. 33 to 18 is 1 inch allowed. This 1 inch is taken out between the dart on hip line, 16
Take the center of L measure
/
which gives us point
/
inch to 10 and
Y
O
,
/
Measure back neck,
A—O, 2/
—
inches.
Place these 2/ inches oii point 32 at front neck and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. through 18 to length of coat. front line from 27 to D is 7 i inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to 4 is 16 inches, length front of waist. Draw waist line from 30 to 4. T, At front shoulder, ,32 to jZ2 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder, on front bust line measure 3/ inches to W. From At waist linefrom the center front line measure 4 inches to 50.
O
Draw
O
Q
Take out, between 50 and At hip line, from 18 to l7, 17 to 16
is
1
51, is
H
of an inch.
4/
inches.
inch.
At shoulder, from 22 us point
to 20, 2 inches are
taken out; these 2 inches
we add on
point
3,
which gives
19.
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted, measure from front line, O 18, 2/ inches, to 26, and for Mark buttons as dia18. buttons measure the same distance back from front line, gram shows. Cut garment bias. In order to have garment without a seam from the waist line down, lay the front part of garment together at point 50 to 51 and cut in one, as shown in the illustration. inch. To obtain collar and lapel, measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23, Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 32 to 21 is 2-K inches, or }4 inch more than the neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24 26 1/ inches to 25 for .standing band, and over to 35 any desired width inch spring for collar. for collar. 35 to 36 is Shape back of collar from 25 24, 21 to 36. Shape the colar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. To trace lapel, break on line 26 24, turn paper under and trace out shape of lapel, which will be reversed on the opposite side.
—
—
1
—
—
—
/
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 45
9)
—
;
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
94
HOW TO MAKE NORFOLK JACKET FROM BLOCK PATTERN Diagram 46
INSTRUCTIONS. Use a block
pattern, cut the
To make back box Allow 2
1
pleat to the
is
draw
pleat any desired width, in this case 2 inches wide
straight line the length of coat,
which gives us points
inches,
2 to
pleat,
box
1
inch.
—
line 3
—
is
2
—
finished.
19.
For under pleat allow at top from 3 to 4, and 20 and 18 to 17, 1 inch. This forms the under 17 20 18 and 2 A 19, turn under and stitch together 1 3
18.
At bottom, from 19
by creasing on seam of coat.
which
when
to
— —
—
Draft front box pleat from the front of block pattern. 22 to 33 is 1 inch 33 to 6 is 2 inches 6 to 5 is 1 inch. At bottom, 14 to B is 1 inch; 14 to 15 is 2 inches; 15 to 16 is 1 inch. Form the front pleat the same as back pleat. ;
,
To make
— —
measure the distance from 39 to 38 37 to 34, which is the same distance from 11 9 and 12 to 10. Square over on line 9 10 to front of coat, from this point allow Shape belt as diagram shows. yi inch to 7, and IJ^ inches to 8. belt,
to
For front
collar
and
lapel, follow
same
instructions as given in diagram 19. page 42.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
95
6
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
96
NORFOLK JACKET Diagram 47
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
155^ inches
Shoulder Height Back
8>4
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height and
— ISj^
inches
— 17
inches
Length of
SH
inches
7
Length Front of Waist
Syi inches 14
9>^—
to Waist....7>4
Shoulder
inches
/^^ inches
—
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. For complete box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. back bust line from C to LI is 4 inches, LT to T is 2 inches. At waist line in back, from E to J K^ inch. Draw line from A through J to full J to K, 3 inches.
On
K
length.
to L, }i inch.
L
to 5, 2 inches. inch. 5 to 49, 49 to 7, 4 inches.
%
7 to 6, -H inch.
Take center of L K, square down where this line crosses on For second hip, measure .>4 inch to 15 for back part. gore in back, square up and down from points 5 L. For third gore in back, measure from point 48 on hip M
—
inch to 10.
—
Take center of 6 7, square up and down where on hip, measure ->^ inch to 14 and ji inch is
to 13;
28 to 53
Syi inches, length of underarm.
Draw new waist
To
this line crosses
line
from L
to 53.
draft back yoke, measure from
Shape gores as shown.
C on back
bust line
1
inch
to 55.
Fake center of second gore on bust line, measure J/ inch down Shape yoke Point 29 is ^4 inch above bust line. to 54. from 55 through U-54 T 29. Measure hip from 56 tr 13 to !<7 is yi of hip measure, 20/ 15, 47 to 48, 10 to 14 inches. From this point allow 1/ inches to 58, which is taken out between the two front darts at waist and hip line. Draw front line from O through 58 to 20.
— — ;
From 27
M
to is 17 inches, length of waist in front, waist line from 53 to M.
Draw new
W
to on front bust line measure 3j/2 inches to W, and is 2 inches. Square down points and V to full length. Measure from to 17, 3 inches, and from V to 16, 2/ inches for height of darts. At front waist line from 37 to 9 is J4 incli taken out 38 to 8 is I inch taken out, same distance on hip. Shape gores as shown. To draft front yoke, measure from 4 on bust line, inch to 3, and re-shape armscye from 3 to 2. Shape yoke from 3 througli V to 34. For double breasted collar and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. Cut yoke from shoulder to bust line as shown in own in blouse shirt waist diagram. diagram 81, page 16 0.
From
Q V
W
W
;
—W
/
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR 26
18
20 Diagram 47
W OMEN.
97
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
98
TO DRAFT NEW SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER. Diagram 48
MEASURES. Half of Back
inches
/
To Elbow
Full Length
19>4 inches
29'/2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
A
to
I
is 7 inches across back; A to L is 19>i inches, elbow length; A to of bust measure, less 1 inch, 3^ inches; I to is length: I to
Square over I to
^
D
R
is >it
all
the given points on line
B
M
R
29>^ inches,
is
2 inches.
is
1
full
A — B.
bust measure, 9 inches.
N is ji of bust, 43/2 inches. N to O is 1>^ inches. Q to P is >4 inch T to R is inch R to W is >^ of bust measure H to G K to J is >4 inch. center of H — B. Draw line from G to E. G to V is 3 inches. G to E is 6 inches. Square
is
to
H.
M
to
;
1
;
;
inch.
K
is
the
Shape sleeve as shown.
The
distance
we allowed on shoulder from 43
to 4
and S
to 9
is
taken off from the top of sleeve.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
99
A
Diagram 48
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR
100
SEMI-FITTING COAT.
WOM:i:N.
WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER. Diagram 49
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights Front.
Across Chest
15J/2
inches
Neck
15
inches
— Shoulder Height Back 6 — Waist. .y}4 — Neck Height and
inches
Length of Shoulder
7^4— 17'/4
Length Front of Waist
Syi inches 14 .
.
.g]^
•
to
inches
7J/2
inches
8^
inches
15J/2
inches
534 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. inch I to K is 4 inches K to L is -K inch At waist line E to J is
^
7
is
Draw back
1
;
;
;
L
to 6
4^4 inches
is
;
6 to
inch.
line
A
through
to B.
point where crosses on square down from —K whichJ inch inch 10 and measure measure crosses on point where square down from Take center of 6— which 19
Take center of L
is
and
H
hip,
to 15.
jf-j
inch to 13.
hip.
line
this
is 5,
7,
}i inch to 14
line
this
11,
to
yi
Measure from 28
to
— 8>4
inches length of under-
arm.
Shape as shown. waist line from L to 19. At shoulder S to 38 is 354 inches; R to U is 1>4 inches. Shape back shoulder as shown. Measure hip F (o 10, 15 to 14. 13 to 33— ^4 of hip 20j4
Draw new
Square inches.
U
on
line
R—
I
to T, 2 inches.
—
33 to 18 allow l;4 inches. This 1>4 inches we lose in front dart between 8 9 at waist, 17— 16 at hip line. Draw front line 18 full length. ?7 to is 17 'A inches, length of waist in front. Draw new waist line from 19 to M. to 9 is 5 inches; 9 to 18 is 1J4 inches. At waist from At hip 18 to 17 is 5% inches; 17 to 16 is 1^4 inches. Lose ^2 inch from 29 to 30. to 40 is 3 inches 29 is 2 inches above bust line. On bust line Re-shape arm-scye from 28 to 30. 34 to 3 is 2>4 inches. Square point 3, 234 inches to 4. Shape shoulders and gores as shown. When the front seam of coat is more to the side of coat, it is necessary to place a dart under the lapel in order to give more Chest. At shoulder 32 to 22 is 1 inch; 22 to 20 is 1^4 inches taken out. This 1^ inches add on point
Q — M—
M
M
H
;
34 to 43.
On
bust line
Q
to
W
is
2-}4
inches.
Shape dart as shown.
double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42, with exception of making a notch collar. Shape the front line from 41 on box line through O to 42. From this line draft Vest. measure out 1 inch for lap. Same distance back for buttons.
To make garment To
Shape vest as shown. Connect vest at 20 at shoulder; on front 9
—
17.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WO MEN 26
DlAGR.\M 49
101
Collars
Leggins
Hoods
—
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
104
THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR. Diagram
50
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Draw line A C and B.
—B
8 inches,
J-j
2.
Divide Hne
A— B
3.
From D
to
K
is
Ij^ inches.
line
I
to
G and
from 4.
Now
of neck measure.
A
making points
and
into 3 parts,
H
From Hne
is
J to
J
to
points
I,
D
is
5!^ inches, and square Hnes lo
which points square up.
E and F
respectively
is
}4
inch,
and
the same.
shape collar as diagram shows.
CHILD'S
TURN DOWN COLLAR Diagram
51
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Draw 32
Now 2.
line
—30
35,
which
is
6^
2 inches; go in to 31
inches neck measure. From 33 to 32 is IVi inches; from '/> inch from 35 to 34 is 2 inches, the height of collar. ;
connect 32 with 35, 31 and 34.
From 34
to
from 26
Now
33
is
29 is 2yi inches. 27 is 54 inch.
From 29
to
28
is
IJ/jinches.
From 30
to 27
is
3 inches,
to
connect 28 with 26 31
32 with 35
— 34
with 28, shape as diagram shows.
and
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
B
i)
1)
Diagram 50
Diagram
51
@
10s
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
106
STANDING COLLAR. Diagram
52
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Draw
line 19
—24
16 inches, neck measure, and di\ide into half for point 25.
Square point
up.
23 to 21 2.
4 inches, and square to points 17
is
21 to 22 is \y2 inches: 24 to 16 25 inch. 15 is
—
Now
is
HX
—
15.
inches; 19 to 18
is
D/j inches; 17 to 20
is
i/4
inch;
^
connect points, as shown
in
diagram.
TURN DOWN COLLAR. Diagram
53
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Draw 1
line
to
line
Z
—W
^
\V to V is 1>'2 inches; of neck measure, and square lines up. 8 inches, From V to U is 2'/!' inches, and y& inch from 2>4 niches, height of collar.
1
is
W—T.
2.
Connect
3.
Take
V
with
and
1
center of line
Z—X—u.
Measure from Z tance as
U—T,
L'
U
—Z
with Z and shape, as
and measure from
—
Y
shown to
X
in
diagram.
54 inch,
S 3 inches; S R is 1% inches; draw and shape collar, as shown in diagram.
to
and connect with curve
line
Z
—R,
which
is
same
line
dis-
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
T(
107
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
108
HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE Diagram
TAKEN.
54
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
.\cross
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights Front.
Across Chest
15^
inches
Neck Length Front of Waist
... .7J4
8J/2
Back
nches
14
15
inches
— 6 — •Shoulder Height Back Waist. .7>4 — Neck Height and
— 17^
inches
Length of Shoulder
to
.
.
.gyi
nches
7>2
nches
SJ^
nches
15I/2
nches
5?^
nches
INSTRUCTIONS. First
Dolman
:
Second Dolman standing
Take measure over arms, over fullest part of bust, as drawing shows, :
in
1
—
2.
Take measure from center of back, 2 inches above waist to elbow of lady an easy pose, 3 4.
Inside elbow to wrist:
—
Take measure from elbow
to wrist,
6
—
5.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
109
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
110
OPERA CLOAK. Diagram
55
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Across Chest
15
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Neck 1st
Neck Height
15>2 inches
-
46
and 2d Dolman
— 10^
inches
Elbow
Inside
to to
— 8—
9
Waist
7
Wrist
13
inches
9
inches
7
inches
5^^ inches ISyi inches 7J/2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw line C to A is
A— B. C
is
first
Dolman (measure overarm
7 inches, length in back: second hip measure, 4 inches.
Square
—D
line
C
— E— F— B
on
line
E
is
waist;
A
to
E
at bust). is
ISyi inches: F and
IS.
first
and
A — B.
Divide 19 23 inches first Dolman; D to (J is >!> inch allowance for breathing. inches, 5/2 of bust measure, into quarters, which is 4-54 inches, and measure off from D to G. measure oif' Ys of 19 inches plus 1>2 inches; namely. 3j,s inches. From G to From C to I is 63/2 inches across back measure. Find center of I and H, which is point 7. bust measure plus 1 inch; namely, S-}4 inches. Draw line up on 7 to T, which is '4 of and D up and down, and up on I and G. Draw lines on to C is 7 inches, length in back. E to J is 1 inch. Draw line from J through C to J. C to P is 6 inches, second shoulder height back, and square off on line Measure from to N lyi inches. m is 8 inches, second shoulder height From P to R is G'/z inches, width of back Y to back R to I is 5% inches, first shoulder height in back. is 834 inches, second shoulder height in From P to R is 6v, inches, width of back; Y to back R to I is 6 inches, first shoulder height in back. From to 3 is 7% inches, first shoulder height in front. G to X is 9 inches, second shoulder height in front. X to 1 is 2 inches. This varies according to size, more for larger, less for smaller sizes. Square point 1 to point 27 and intersect line at 3. from line is the same as Point is 1 inch above bust line and 2 inches from line I O R and ^V T 4 to line 3. Now connect point 4. 27. X to line 3 is same distance as to R. Draft neck curve front Hip measure is 21 -4 inches; half of 2l}4 is 10?^ inches; measure this from 17 to 18. Now draft front line 27 O 18 to 47. which is length of garment. This is a perfectly
C
is
H
^
H
M M ;
M—
M
;
O
;
O
;
H
W
M—
— —W—
— —
O
H
;
X—
— —
straight line.
—
5.
M
to 40, 58 inches, and square on Tn order to get length of garment in back, measure from line A B as diagram shows. In order to get the minimum fullness of garment at bottom multiply bust measure, 19 inches. by 2%. which gives 42^4 inches: measure this from 47 to 48. Now draft a nicely shaped line from J to 48 as shown. Sweep at bottom 48 to 27 is slightly curved. This completes garment.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
55
Ill
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
112
ULSTER WITH DOLMAN SLEEVE. DiAGUAM
S6
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
.\cross
Neck
15yj inches
L^ength Waist in Front
8
..-.
— 18
to
5'k;
to Waist-..
Back
Underarm
inches
Elbow
Inside
—7 8— 7 — 15J4
9
1st
—
46
and 2d Dohiian
Wrist
inches inches inches
13
inches
9
inches
10'/2
inches
7^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Use same construction
on Opera Cloak on previous page.
lines as
For back part follow diagram inches, and draw line up from
A 2.
to
The
49 first
is
58 inches,
Dolman
is
full
distance as
4
W—
K
page 115, with the exception from J toK, which to S.
This
length of garment.
For
plaits
is
2
back.
back follow our diagram.
in
H—
%
I.
1>4 inches above bust line and l'-^ inches front are same as in diagram 58, page 115. is
Dolman
called
:
is
Second Dolman
is
use this measure to get point Z, by placing your measure Z. less 6^2 inches across back measure. Find center of Z, to T, which is of bust plus 1 inch. 5*_( inches. Z to 2 is same
23 inches
D
and measure to namely 7, and go up at
58,
from
line
Front
always 2 inches alcove waist line point 19 is lOyi inches, less back 16.
—
103^ inches; 26 to 6
H.
line is
The shoulder height and neck as Opera Cloak lesson.
same
26.
Now
Second Dolman measure connect 6 2 T 4 and
—— —
is
to
line 3.
From 6 draw
line to 48,
diagram for
Sweep same
in
plaits
on
which
is
this line,
2y2 times 19 inches bust as on back.
measure,
same
previous lesson, Ulster No.
1,
diagram
68,
page 136.
less
bac'v.
Follow
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 56
113
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
114
FICHU NO. Diagram
3.
57
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder Heights Back
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height of Waist
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
\5y2 inches
Length Waist
in
—
8
Front Inside
18
Elbow
inches to
Front
Heights
— 7 inches 8 — 5^ inches 7 — 15^ inches 9
Underarm 1st
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
46
13
inches
9
inches
lOyi inches
7^^ inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
2.
Follow instructions as
A
to
2 to
C
is
Z
is
line,
straight 3 inches, ;
in
Opera Cloak Lesson No.
1,
with exception of fohowing points:
E
to J is -}4 inch, and shape back as shown. and shape bottom of Fichu as shown from
or any desired shape.
F
through Z to
on front
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
57
115
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR
116
FICHU NO. Diagram
WOM.i:N.
4.
58
MEASURES.
—
7
inches
—
5^
inches
Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Front
9
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder Heights Back
8
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
15^
inches
Underarm
inches
1st
Length Waist
in
Front Inside
8
— 18
Elbow
to
Height
of Waist
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
7
-
46
15>4 inches 13
inches
9
inches
lOyi inches
7>2 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No.
2.
For
3.
Curve from
plaits follow
our diagram
2.
closely.
E to Z, which is 3 inches above difference of shape in front.
waist
line,
same as Fichu No.
3,
with the
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
Diagram
58
li7
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
118
DOLMAN
NO.
5.
Diagram 59
MEASURES. JBust
38
inches
Shoulder
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder Heights
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
Length Waist
— 18
8
Front
in
Inside
inches
Elbow
to
5-)'4
Waist
Underarm
\SYi inches
Neck
Back
Across Back
inches
15
-
to
—7 8— 7 — 15>^
9
Front
Heights
1st
and 2d Dolman
7^
Wrist
46
inches inches inches
13
inches
9
inches
— 10^
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2 for construction
lines
Measure hip
back and front.
the same to obtain 18.
Now
measure
man
D
H
to
on bust
line,
which
23 inches, and measure balance,
;
inches,
and I into half for point 7 and go up to T go down from 7 to 26 to 2 inches above waist 2.
deduct this from Dolfrom C to Z on bust line. Divide Z inches, which is ^ of bust plus 1 inch
in this case is 8? s inches
14%
5-)4
line,
;
giving second
Dolman
point.
—
Measure 16 19 width of back 2 inches 10>^ line from 26 to 16. Dolman, minus 2 inches leaves 8j/2 inches, which is measured from 26 to From H to 4 is a loss of 1 inch this inch is made up by going from Z to 35
Draw second Dolman
;
inches, second
point
6.
toward
;
front.
Inside sleeve from elbow to wrist is 73/2 inches; this is measured from 2 to V. U to L is a straight line down L to 13 is 1 inch. to 15 is 16 inches, length of sleeve. and 15. From ;
from 36
Now
to U, the same connect line U 13
—
U
Now
W
through draft curve, starting at 6 to Connect S with 15 as shown.
T
—35 and U.
From 6
backwards.
Now
connect
V
with 47 as shown, and V- -4 up to shoulder front.
to
S
is
a slight curve
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
59
119
—
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
120
DOLMAN
NO.
6.
Diagram 6o
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder Height Back
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
15^4 inches
Length Waist Inside
Elbow
in
to
— 18
8
Front
Waist
•
Underarm
inches
7^
Wrist
to
—7 8— 5^ 7 — 15^^
9
Front
Height
1st
and 2d Dolman
46
inches inches inches
13
inches
9
inches
lOyi inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
2.
Follow instructions of Dolman No.
W
From is
3.
is
IJ^ inches
from
line
R— I
and note the change of back. and bust line.
5
35 to 11 is ^4 inch; now draw line 11 Now connect points 3 A 2y2 inches.
—30
to 13;
30
— V— — — 16
10
Place separate piece of paper under sleeve and trace 13
is
E
to J
is
1
inch.
10 inches from V.
47, as
— 10—
11
diagram shows. to
U.
Point
17 to
V
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 60
121
—
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
122
DOLMAN
NO.
Diagram 6
7.
1
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
153^ inches
Length Waist
in
— 18
inches
Elbow
to
8
Front Inside
to
—7 8 — S-H 7 — 15>^
9
Waist
Underarm 1st
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
46
—
inches inches
inches
13
inches
9
inches
10,'/.
inches
7^^ inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No.
2.
35 to 11
5
is 34 of an inch. Point 41 sleeve connect line 41 and 11. The are 5 inches deep to points 30 29.
—
Now break hip line 21— 11— U— 13. 18 to
V
V
is
13
— 10
for back
front, with exception of following:
way between
is
halt
V
shapes are
1
waist and hip line. For under inch between 21 40 and 34 22, and
and turn under, and trace 10
—
—
to 41
—22
to
30
—
— — 40
29
V
shape,
25.
Now
3-1
hip measure less back, nameiy. 21'/^ inches.
——
Now conect 3 ^1 inch between 42 37 and 28 23, shape line 39 47 as diagram shows. to 15 is 2 inches.
1
and
—
—
15
and 15 with
making them
39.
5 inches
Take out 2
darts in
—
deep to points 38
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
61
123
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
\24
DOLMAN
NO.
8.
Diagram 62
MEASURES. Bust
8
inches
Neck Height
?
43
inches
Across Back
15
inches
Underarm
25
Hips Across Chest
Neck
inches
15^
Length Waist
— 18
8
Front
in
Inside
— 5^ inches — ISyi inches
Shoulder Heights Back
38
Waist
to
Waist
Underarm
inches inches
Elbow
to
1st
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
46
13
inches
9
inches
9
inches
lOyi inches
7^2 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No. 7 for back with the following exceptions: 8 to 45
is
2 inches.
Dolman No.
L 2.
D
to 13 is line 13-
1
to 43 is
is
1
inch.
Connect 45 with 11 and take out 2 Vs, same as
and connect with 23, which is center between waist and and follow same rules as Dolman No. 7.
inch,
—23
46
45 to 41
7.
Now
break
W—
is bust measure less C, width of back plus 1 inch; namely, 15>^ inches. 43 to 2 inches down, same as 8 to 45 in back. Connect 46 with 31, going slightly out.
—
From 25 to 24 is l^-S inches, and 2 29 is also 1 J/ inches. square down; and 2 29, and square up and down.
—
Now
hip.
—
Divide 25
shape gore from 52 to 24—46 9 to 39—51 and front 37 to 2 to 47, following diagram closely.
tom 37
—24
—9— — 4
3.
into half
and
Shape bot-
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 62
125
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
126
CAPE WITH ONE DART. (38 inch Bust.)
Diagram 6}
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
1.
•
Take
line
A
—B
and square
to D.
jacket pattern, front and back, and place
H
same
in
square as shown with dotted
Let C be 8 inches and 8^2 inches from A, E to F is I3/2 inches and N and inch between L and O. space of 1 inch between
L
— M —K
Use
A
M
K
gives dart on shoulder.
as a pivot
and sweep
to
any desired length.
at waist,
lines.
which leaves a
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 63
127
.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
128
TWO
CAPE WITH
DARTS.
(38 inch Bust.)
Diagram 64
INSTRUCTIONS. 1
Use same
rule as for previous cape
and
find center of
N
and
M
;
namely, R, and connect
with a guide line to A. 2.
T
and S are lyi inches from R.
P and L
is
connect
J4 inch
from Y.
O —T— L— P— K
Square
Y
to 27.
Use
on Une
A
A —R.
as a pivot
Do same
with point R.
and sweep
to
For darts
any desired length.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 64
129
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
!50
COACHMAN'S FUR CAPE. DiAt;KAM 65
MEASURES. Rust
38 inches
-
First
Dolman
4()
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
For box, use same
rule as our loose front
Draft shoulders, neck curves, 2.
From
No.
1,
only making
it
and back, same as Lesson No.
at front
to
the
waist
seam
decrease this distance
T and
slightly
Measure distance point
D,
through
T
right in center of shoulder. J/j
for respective
toward front to C,
and measure 2.
incli
which
K
to
in
Dolman
;
this
this case 2.i
inches,
sizes.
From
to
I
Now
T
draft
is
4 inches
line
line.
2.
front shoulder take '2 inch off and allow this on back shoulder, as shown.
to bring shoulder
and
jacket
:
This
is
increase or
from L through S
completes back. is
10 inches, and place this 10 inches on front
giving point
through 8 and slightly toward back to
W.
S.
Tliis
Now
draft
line
completes diagram.
from
\
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 65
131
:
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM
!32
i:N
HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT Diagram 66
FRONTâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; FIGURE To
1.
grade from 36 to 38 bust
Your heavy
Mark
line in this
out your front A, shoulder, G, R,
H
diagram shov\s your 36
B and
bust,
FRONT PART.
C, then raise your shoulder 3-16 of an inch to obtain your 3S
and T.
After this has been done, move your front ys of an inch over (parallel with front) half way between 3 and 4, and grade your dart R, I, H.
Then move your
front
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;T.
%
of an inch again over to point 4 (parallel with front) to obtain arm-
scye, 10
Bring your pattern down to original shoulder, keeping front on point
4,
and continue arniscy.,
10 to Z.
Underarm seam
is
graded yi inch from
To grade down from 36 the
to 34, use the
same measurements.
O
to Z, straight
same
down
to
K
instructions as above,
and Y. only grading down, using
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
Diagram 66
133
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
1}4
MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT. {Continued)
Diagram 67
BACK PART— FIGURE ^'ouI•
heavy
line
in
Raise your liack shoulder
.i-16 of
an inch
^^ove your pattern over across hack .'Vfler
ohtaininii'
this
point
keeping back on
.Vow
P
ccjiinect
to (),
10 with
D — E,
10.
|)oint
E
underarm seam,
To make back
BACK PART.
diagram showi your 36 bust,
this
'j
D— E.
line
inch from
.1
to 4 to
down
nio\e your pattern
lo
oret
point 10.
\dur original M> sh(julder.
It
— T.
4 parallel.
and 10 with is
'4
to
2.
inch,
P.
straight
down
to
L
— K.
shoulder and neck correspond with your front, take olT ^s inch on shoulder point,
and proceed from D- -W, raising
W
1-16 inch from B.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 67
135
—
B
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
136
ULSTER NO.
1.
Diagram 68
MEASURES. Bust
.
Waist Hips
.
-\cross Chest
Neck
.38
inches
Across Back
..25
inches
Underarm
..43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
15
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
inches
Length Back
1
;
5^
to
13
inches
9
inches
—7 8 — 5^
9
Waist
7
inches
inches
IS'A inches
INSTRUCTIONS. This draft
is
made by
draw box, with
cutting out any jacket, tight or loose fitting, to the second hip.
the exception of shoulder heights, as Lesson No.
ing the pattern at bust as
diagram shows
point
let
;
—
place notches on bust line of
line,
N
be 6 inches below
straight to points
S
point X, which
6 inches below waist
To
is
VV.
Continue front
waist
down
line
and measure
inches measure
up
to gores as
1-3
this
of
from
V
to S,
W
remainder from
diagram shows.
box and
line
explains
;
after notch-
straight on line
A
—
and continue gores down
straight
to
point
V.
Also
note
line.
get sweep at bottom of ulster, multiply bust measure
inches,
1
Then
to
W
19 inches
B, and whatever to
T
is
and 2-3 from S
2^
times, giving 42^4
missing to to C,
make 42^4
and shape straight
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 68
137
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
138
ULSTER NO.
2.
Diagram 69
MEASURES. 38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
Hips
43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Across Chest
15
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Xeck
1534 inches
Bust
-
Length Back
to
Waist
13
inches
9
inches
—7 8— 5^ 7 — 1554
9
inches inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
The two gores
in this draft
same instructions 2.
are placed together, leaving back and front alone,
as on Lister No.
1,
Figure the sweep the same as Ulster No.
sweep go toward
1)ack
and 1/3 toward
and note point 1,
N
to be
6 inches below waist hne.
being careful always to
front.
l-'ollow the
let
Diagram shows same.
2-3 of remainder of
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 69
I.i9
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
140
PRINCESS DRESS. Diagram 70
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Across C/hest
13
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Xeck
15'4
inches
Length
Hips
..-,
liack
to
Waist
13
inches
9
inches
—7 8 — 5j4
9
7
-15,'/2
inches
inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. I
he (haft
is
ah'cady explained
gore are separate.
A
in the
preceding- lesson,
garment of
hut diagram onlv shows
little
this
flare.
kind
L'sc the
is
with the exception that back anti l)ack
always cut with a large
same
rules in getting
tlare
and a
train,
sweep as Ulster \o.
1.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 70
141
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
142
HOOD
NO.
Diagram
1.
71
MEASURES. Bust
36
iiidies
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
E
and
to 1) fjiven.
I
E and
line
J',
to
incli
[â&#x20AC;¢'
and
1'"
id
11
is
al\va\s '4 of
l)U.st
measure. 9
inelies.
S(|uare ])oints
jusl
wlneli constitute box.
'lace jacket
C
to
B.
A all
is
hack and front together as dotted front of jacket or cape.
around
this
u hen wearing hood.
curve
is
stitclied
Xow
line
sliows.
draft curve
11
and draft neck curve through
G
to
.\,
as
I"",
to
shown:
and cord placed hetweeu to give the desired
('; '4
effect
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
71
«43
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
144
HOOD
NO.
Diagram
2.
72
MEASURES. 36 inches
Bust 1.
Top
2.
From F
of
tliis
hood
same
is
as No.
to P is 4 inches, and for respective sizes I to
willi
from B
H
:
1.
is
1
exception of
to I
is Sj/>
Now
inch.
F
to
B being
'/s
of bust,
4j/j
inches.
inches, increase or decrease these distances connect these points with straight line, as
shown.
Now
draft curve
from
H
through
G
to
A.
HOOD
NO. 3
Diagram 73
MEASURES. Bust
36 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
Follow instructions as No.
2.
B
to 1
is 6'/2
inches,
and
1
2,
to
with exception of following:
H
is
2 inches
;
draft line
B
to
H
to line J. as
diagram shows.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
D(J)-
E
Diagram No. 2
72
14 =
Dg>
Diagram No.
^
7^
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
146
KNEE LEGGINGS. Diagram
74
MEASURES. Knee
6>4 inches
Calf
7
Ankle
5
Instep
7 inches
inches
Shoe Length
9 inches
inches
Full Length
Calf Length
.....20
inches
Syi inches
INSTRUCTIONS. 1.
2.
Draw
O — G,
line
O
to
X
<j
to
F
2^
M
P
to
and
From G
to
F
F
to
D
is
2 inches; these measures never vary.
and G.
down from
I',
giving points
to
6jX inches from AI to A.
is
out
v^
L
inch and measure from
to
F
C
to
calf measure, 7 inches.
is
E
'4
inch.
Shape
line
from
inch.
Draft
line
from B through
P.
through
to A.
B
Instep from
Q— H to
4.
20 inches.
ankle measure, 5 inches; square line up and
is
B go
E—D— C From B
full length,
Z.
Knee measure
3.
and
inches,
Square points O, X, D,
From D
is
5y2 inches, calf length.
is is
which
to J
is
7 inches.
From Z
9 inches, shoe lengtii.
I
is
I,
and
I
through
J— P—L
N is half distance between () This completes knee leggings.
anil
to
to
H
is
1
M.
M, which square
to
O, giving button
line.
SHOE LEGGINGS. Diagram These leggings are the same as knee leggings,
75
e.xcept that the length
is
S inches.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
147
"(e)W
Diagram
74
Diagram
75
Waists
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
150
WAIST. FIRST LESSON. DiAGRAiM 76
MEASURES. Bust
3?^
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights Front.
Across Chest
15V2 inches
Neck
14
Length Front of Waist.
.
.
.7J4
— 17/^
14
8^
Shoulder Height Back
Back
Waist
inches
Lengtii
inches
Length of Shoulder
to
IXSTRI'CTIO.XS. I
A
line
)r;i\\
1
.'\
to
C
From A
to
!",
From
E
to
B
is
This
D D
1
is
to
G
is
Cj
to
H
is
C
to
1
is
15'_> inches,
J
',
is
'/i
'4
yi,
length of waist
back. in 'hack.
E.
B on
B.
line .\,
of bust measure plus is
1
inch.
lost in cutting out
In this case
20 inches.
the fiattern.
inch allowed for breathing.
of Ijust measure, of bust
7 inches.
Square point
in
first hip.
we allowed
inch
y
is
7'4 inches, neck height
jjoints C,
to L)
to
is
4 inches, the
Square over
From C
1.
I)
'
and
Sf|uare up points G.
in
this case 3 inciies.
measure plus I'j
inches.
of back measure.
_>
11, I
up and down. on
line C, D.
In this case 4 inciies.
-9^4
6
— — 8J4
7'-^
inches inches
inches inches
7j4~15j/2 inches ^1/4
inches
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
151
A
a D
H
m-
#
^t)
E i\)
^B
Diagram 76
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
l';2
WAIST.
SECOND LESSON. SECOND LESSON.
n
Diagram
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
.\cross
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
Across Chest
15J/ inches
Neck
14
Length Front of Waist
7)^
— 171^
Back
14 8J/2
Shoulder Heights Front
inches
Length Back
inches
to
Waist
Length of Shoulder
inches
inches
— 8>4 — 6 7)4 — 15>^
inches
5^
inches
9>4
Shoulder Heights Back
inches
JYa,
inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. C
to
Y
is
2^
C
to
P
is
6 inches, the second shoulder height
Y
to
O
is
inches.
834 inches, the
Square over
A
and
In squaring
P
over point
R
S
to
is )/2
P
on
first
line
R
l)ack.
shoulder height back.
A, B.
found crossing
is
line
inch.
Draft neck, A, O, and draw back shoulder, O, S,
At
H
front,
Square point
G
X
to
is
X
to
1
is
to 3
X
first
to 2
shoulder height front.
over l'< inches, to point
1
to 27. 1 1
to 27.
front shoulder from 11 to is
11.
2 inches.
Draft neck curve from
Z
inches.
3.
Square over point
Draw
.^'4
"54 inches, second shoulder height front.
is
9>4 inches,
Square point
I.
7)4 inches,
y'l
3, 5;k; inches,
the
same
as brick shoulder.
It
is
S.
3.
In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line it
),
of chest mea.sure.
Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to
Also do not bring
(
below the
I,
R.
i)ust line.
very important to follow the draft of arni.scye very carefully, and get the shape as near as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large, while a small armscye can easily be made larger.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
153
E 4^
B
4)
Diagram
77
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
154
TIGHT FITTED LINING FRENCH SEAMS. DiAClKAM 78
'
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
t^V^ inches
Neck
14
inches
— 7/4 inches .Shoulder Height Back inches 6 — Length Backand Waist. .7^ — 15>4 inches
— ijy2
inches
Length of Shoulder
Length Front of Waist.
.
.
.7%
14
inches
8j4 inches
.Shoulder Heights Front.
.
.
.9^4
8^/i
to
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in the First and .Second Lessons for Waists. Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches.
T to S is 2^ At waist line,
inches.
E
to J is lyi inches in all cases. inches. 1J4 This measure varies ys inch, according to larger or smaller sizes, where the back is tight ting with two gores. inches, v\hicli nuist l)e diviiled into 'j liack Waist measure, 25 inches; 34 of same is
J to
K
is
6^
fit-
and
two equal gores.
K L
to L to 7
inch.
is 1
7 inches. As we only need -t inches in this case, the other 2j4 inches are taken out in two darts of 1% inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to he divided equally into two gores of 2J4 inches each. L to 4, 23'j inches; 4 to 5, 1% inches; .t to 6, 2>j inches; 6 to 7. IJ^ inches. 1'.4 inches. On hip line measure from B to Draw center back line from A through J to \'. Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure "4 inch fo 15, }i inch is
V
to 10.
the center of 4 and 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 75 and inch to 74. Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure A4 inch to 13 and 34 inch to 14. 28 to 30 is 834 inches length of underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30. .Shape gores as shown. Measure back neck. A O, which is 2'/2 inches, place these 2^4 inches on front neck at point M. measure to 27, which is 14 inches neck measure. 27 to is 7v inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 17j4 inches, length waist in front. Draw front line from through to 27 and down from to IS slightly shaped to 71. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. Place the Gy^l inches which is J4 of waist measure in liack on point 30. measure over 12^/2 inches, which is '4 of waist measure plus '4 inch, which gives us point 9.
Take
•
^
Q
M
9 to
M
These
M
inches
and
more than
is
the natural waist
measure are taken out
in
front
dart between 9
8.
At front shoulder 32 20 to 19
M
2}i inches.
is
2]/;
22 to 20
O
O
3 inches, the same as back shoulder to T. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point \^. 2-54 inches, the .same as back shoulder T S. to
22
is
2 inches taken out.
is
Reshajje arm-scye from 28 through li to 19. is 3-f4 inches. At front bust line D to .Shape the front as diagram shows. After the two front gores have been cut out, lay pattern together at points 22 22 20 to 40. inch raise at top, as shown by the dotted line points 32 tom of waist as shown.
W
— —
—
20, allowing ^4
Shape the
bot-
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
78
1S5
—
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
1S6
TIGHT LINING WAIST WITH ONE GORE. Diagram 79
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Across Bade
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights Front.
Across Chest
isV^ inches
Neck
Length Front of Waist
7'/^
— I7yi
8^
Length Back
to
.
.pj^
.
Waist
—
8J4
—
Shoulder
inches
inches
7}4 inches
15^
7 x
Shoulder Heights Back:
inches
14
:
inches
14
inches
6
inches
5%
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. same instructions
P'olovv
At waist is
The
E
Take center 6 28 to 24
—
4
—
—4 and —6 5
I34 inches; 5 to 6
is
3 inches; 6 to 7
of waist measure.
inches length of underarm.
from
line
shoulder
at
^
up and down.
waist line from 5 to 24;
Draw back
is
and square down.
5
7 square
8^
is
Draw new
T
is
.^
2 inches.
distance between J
to
and second lessons for Waists.
to J is 1_^2 inches; J to 4 is S'^ inches; 4 to
Take center of
S
as given in first
F
—J
B
to
F
is
1
inch.
to A.
43^ inches.
is
Shape two back gores as shown.
From 27 on neck
to
D
is
7^
inches, highest point of chest,
down
to 34
is
Wyi
inches, length
front of waist.
Draw new At
waist line from 24 to 34.
waist in front 34 to 13
Draw
front line
from
13
is
—O
)4 inch.
to 27 slightly
shaped
From
measure, 6^4 inches plus jA inch to V. out in front dart 22 23.
—
From
(J
on bust
tliis
i)oint,
line to
15
is
3f^ inches.
to
From
take out each side of line to 22
29. \
Measure from
to front line is
down to 35 inches and to 23
this point 1^4,
2j-'4
is
7 to 21,
}i
inches which
of waist is
taken
3 inches, square
down
l^.
.Shape dart and bottom as shown. .\t
shoulder
I'oint It
is
lO
is
to 12
11
jioint 3
is
2 inches; 12 to 14 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches 31. Reshajje armscye from 28 to 31.
we add on
which gives us point
1'/.
inches below 15.
Shape dart
as
shown.
necessary in all linings and shirt waists to take a dart out (.11 shoulder. Then place dart together at points X 14 down to 35, and cut over new front. The dart at bottom between 30 33 will increase as shown in blouse shirt waist.
—
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
U
X
Diagram 79
157
Q
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
158
TIGHT-FITTING
TWO
PIECE LINING.
Diagram 80
MEASURES. Bu.st
38
iiK-hes
Across Rack
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights Front
Across Chesi
1314 inches
^'eck
14
Length Front of Waist
Length of Back
to
— 6 — 8>4 7J4 — 15^
inches
5%
inches
9>4
Waist
7]/^
Length of Shoulder
inches
inches
8>4 inches
.Shoulder Height Back
inches
714—171^
14
inches
inches
LMSTRL'CTIONS. I'ollow
same instructions
.\t
waist line
E
.\l
bottom
B
to
Draw back
to J
is
F
1
line
is
from
—
Take center of 6 is 83/'
I)raw
new
as gi\cn in first
l^i,
inches;
J
to 6
and second lessons for waists. is
,s
inches; 6 to 7
is
3 inches.
inch.
F. J to A.
7,
square down, from this
line to
18
is
T
'4
inch and to 17
is
17^2 inches, length of waist front.
is
inch.
1
to 7
inches, length of underarm.
waist line from J to 10.
Shai)c back gore as shown.
At neck 27
to
D
7J4 inches.
is
Draw new^waist
line
to 27 slightly
from 10
shaped to
Highest point of chest, to 4.
From 4
to
13
is
to
4
y, inch.
Shape front
line
Measure waist from J to 6 which is 5 inches. Place the 5 inches on point 7. to point 21 which is !^ of waist From 12J/ inches, plus y'l inch to V. is 2-54 inches which is taken out in front dart, between 8. .^
'
>n
bust line
from
U
Square down from
to 15
is 3->4
this point,
from
29.
inches.
From
measure from
this point
this line to
—
down .s,
l-j/g
to 19
is
m
—
Measure over
X
to front line
3 inches.
inches and to
8.
\yi inches.
Shape dart and l)ottom as shown. Follow same instructions for the dart
13
shoulder as given in diagram 79, page 156
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
11
X
Diagram 80
15^1
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
160
BLOUSE SHIRT WAIST. Diagram
81
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
-9%
— 7%
Across Chest
153/2
inches
Shoulder Height Back
6
—
14
inches
Xeck Height and
inches
Neck Length Front of Waist.
.
.
.7J4
— 17/^
14
inches
Syi inches
-
inches
8J4 inches
to
Waist. .y% — 15^^
nches
Length of Shoulder
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
At waist
Draw
On
E
line
to J
straight line
bust line
Draw new
to
I
1
from
waists.
inch.
A
to J to
1>4 inches;
is
and second lessons for
T
F; J to 6
is
5y2 inches; 6 to 7
to 21 is Syi inches, length of
is
3 inches.
underarm.
waist line from J to 21.
Take center of 7 17
T
is
in first
is
—6
which
inch; to 18
-34
is
is
point
square down.
5,
Draw
line
from
5 to
'P.
From
this line to
-H inch.
Shape back gore as shown. Take center of 17
up i'roni
to
27 to in
¥
set in a triangle,
which gi\es n)ore spring on hip as shown, from 14 to 16
15.
D
734 inches, highest point of chest,
is
down
Id 13
is
Uy'j inches to length of waist
front.
I)raw
new waist
line
from 21
Draw
front line
from
to 13.
27— O— 13
to 29.
Shape bottom as shown.
—
At shoulder take out a 2 inch dart between 12 10 down to 8. Add the 2 inches on point 3 which gives us point 31. Reshape armscye from H to 31, the same instruction as given in diagram 79. page 156. Cut through on the straight line from 20 to 8. Lay dart together at point 12
from 14
— 10
to 8,
make new
pattern where
to 15 in following lesson.
we
gain 234
inches in the front of waist
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
81
161
—
8
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
162
COMPLETE FRONT OF SHIRT WAIST Diagram
82
INSTRUCTIONS. Showing how
to cut a
—
waist pattern by laying the dart together at Shoulder, points 6
new
where we gain the
How
to apply or
make
Measure from front
—
4
when
11.
—
line 4
Open
finished.
fullness at
bottom of waist from 14
to 15.
a box pleat on the front of a blouse waist.
over
11
the width of pleat 2 to
and
more
inches
23-4
and
17
pleat
1
1
and 9
inch to 3 to 8 is
and press on
1
—
10.
inch.
lines,
2
From
3 to 2 and 10 to 9
To form 9 and 3
is
pleat stitch together on lines
— 10
which
will
For
2 inches. 1
—
be a 2 inch pleat
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
82
163
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMii^N
!64
TURN-OVER COLLAR.
SHOWN
ILLUSTRATION. (ON PAGE 163) IN
Diagram
83
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
line
K
B
D
J— 1— H
is
break
C
to
E
and
."^hape collar as
L
14 inches, neck measure.
is i^ inch;
K
to
I is
1>^ inches,
line for the turn
A
to
shown.
F
is
over
center of
is
same as
collar.
I
D
to
on page 16).
D.
H—B
toGis lYz
>4 inch.
Illustration of collar
B
Square up points
to J. for
inches,
B L
under standing
same
as J to
A
and
D.
L
to
collar.
H
to C.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
Diagram
83
16";
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
166
BISHOP SLEEVE. Dia(;kam 84
INSTRUCTIONS. of bust measuie, A — B. A to J is 4^4 inches, y» of bust measure. J to D is Square over ail given points. inches. D to B is J4 of bust measure, 9 inches.
Draw
A
to
line
E
^/i
Square rlovn
16 inches, 2 inches less than Vj of b;i?t measure.
is
E
^
to K.
This completes box for sleeve.
Take center of to
G
Square up
K— B,
is
O
inch
'A
to
N
i
which gives us point T. Square down X to P and J to C is i inch u is ;
;
inch.
A
to
F
is
2!4 inches;
E
to
I
is
T J^
^A
M
to 3 inches. the distance of
D to Q A — E.
and P
inches.
Shape sleeve as shown.
TIGHT LINING SLEEVE. DlAUR.\M
(S5
MEASURES. Hqlf of Back Length
To Elbow
inches
7
I93/2 inchej
29>1 inches
Full
INSTRUCTIONS.
M
.\ to L is 19y.. inches to elbow A to B is 29'^ to is /j of back measure. 7 inches is 1 inch. Square over of bust measure, 4V2 inches: F to to F is inches to wrist This comto S is '4 "f ''I'^t measure, '* inches. Squ;ire down to 11. all given points. pletes box for sleeve.
From A
;
M
;
D
to
I
M
Square over I to X, 4/2 inches. 2 inches. to i' S to L is 2 inches: to O, I inch. of bust measure, 4'/2 inches: L to C is 1 inc.).
X
O
to \'
is
3 inches;
Square down
G
to
K
E
is
5 inches.
J^ inch
down
Draw
Take
Draw
line
to J
;
H
to
G
is
is
v_,
jA inch:
is
uch.
M—
the distance of Square N S. T to R is 1 inch: R lO is center of 1], II, which gives us K.
is
up
G
;
D
^
1
inch.
G
—
Draw
F. line
G —J.
completes undersleeve. 'ihape top sleeve
from G. *R, *P, *L, *0.
'=1,
*C. *E.
This completes top sleeve.
W
%
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
167
* X
,m~
a
w
p
fa
In 00
u <
Q
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
168
TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS FOUR PIECES. Diagram 86
MEASURES. 38 25
Bust Waist
inches inches 41 inches 15J/2 inches inches 14 Ty^—l?^/^ inches
Hip Across Chest
Neck Length Front Waist
Across Back
14
Underarm
8^/2
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Heights Back Neck Height of Waist Length of Shoulder
— — 7^ —
9/4
8}i
inches inches 7 ]4 inches inches 6 15^ inches 5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given .\t
waist
in First
and Second Lessons for waists.
E
to J is 1 inch. In this case 10 inches. line,
we only need Oj/j inches, which is "4 of 26 waist measure. The other 434 inches more than needed are taken out between the two darts at back. inches. which is Measure waist from J to L is ly4 inches L to 6 is 3->4 inches; 6 to 7 is 2^4 inches and L to 6 is 6>2 inches, J4 of waist measure in back. J to through J \' to 89, which is 56 inches, the full length of garment. Draw center back line from The back is cut on the fold of material. inch to \5. and 's inch Take the center of L K, where the line crosses on first hip. measure
J
to 7
is
K
K
2^
:.
;
K
A
1
to 10.
Un
second hip, where line crosses, measure 2 inches to 44 and Ji inch to 4,v Continue line from 44 to 79, from 43 to 88. Square the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down to full length. Where line crosses on first hip measure, 1- inches to 13 and y'^ inch to 14. On second hip where line crosses measure 2j^ inches to 81 and l^A inches to Continue line down from 81 to 90 and 80 to 87.
80.
Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. to S is Zji inches. 28 to 30 is Syi inches underarm measure. Draw a new waist line from L to 30. Shape back and .side gore as diagram shows. .\t hip, measure from V to 10, 15 to 14 and 13 to 33, which is 20>2 inches, >^ of hip measure. 33 to 18 is Zy^ inches. These 2^2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip line between lb and 17. Measure back neck curve A O, which is 2^ inches. Place these 2^2 inches at the front neck on point 32, measure to 27, 15 inches. Now draw center front line from 27 through O 18 to 71 full length of garment.
T
27 to
Q
7 >^ inches, the highest point of chest. waist line from 30 to M. over 13 inches, which gives us point 9,
is
27 to
M
is
17}^
inches, length front of waist.
Draw new
which is ^> of waist measure. of waist measure, in back at point 30. Place the 6>4 inches, which is and 8, is Zyi inches, these 2^ inches are taken out in the front dart between 9 to on front bust line is 3^ inches, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, D to to T. Front shoulder the same as back shoulder 22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. to 19. Reshape armscye from 28 through Shape the front as diagram shows. at bust line, and meet the two Now cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point points on shoulder, 22 and 20. At neck point 32 raise }i inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder from 32 through 3 to 40. The front is cut on the fold of material.
Measure
M
%
W
O
H
W
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
|JlACK,V.U
So
169
6
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
170
BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER. Diagram
ii?
MEASURES. Bust
Waist
-^H
inclie^
Across iiack
-3
iin-bes
I'nder
-
41
Hips
14
Arm
Sy^ inches
indies
Shoulder Height Front
Across Chest
13'..
inches
Shoulder Height, Hack
Neck
14
inches
Xeck Height and
inches
Length of
7^ — 17,V2
Length Front of Waist
inches
9'/$
—
inches
7j-j
— — ISVj
8j4
to Waist.. ..7 j4
Shoulder
inches inches
5^4 inches
IXSTRUCTIONS. same instructions
l'"ollo\v
I
)n Ijust line
19 to 10
is
from
1
as given
to 19. 11 to 8
S
3 '4 inches;
to
20
is
Blouse Shirt Waist, diagram 81, page l60
Square over 8
5 inches.
Vi inch: 3 to
is
Shape armscye and shoulder
the
in
4
is
to
12,
inch.
'/2
—20— 10—T— H — L— 12— — 3
from
2 inches.
completes
the
joined on the
liot-
This
11.
blouse.
Draft new sleeve for blouse.
Draw
line
B to 21
is
L
L
B.
to
15
—
Square over the given
Square down
To
'4
bust, 9 inches,
3 inches taken off for cuff' as
tom of sleeve 17
21 to
is
to
1
20,
which gives
])oints,
L
to
shown
is >2 inch; 16 to 17 inches; 18 to 19 is 1
10 to 9
is
j/j
Measure from 6 Shape
is 8>-2
inch
cuff as
is
'4 bust,
the diagram.
9 inches.
This cuff
14 inches, 4 inches less than
1.
is
full length.
is
yj inch; 15 to 14
incli.
'-j
of l)ust measure.
;
inches.
9 to 6. 11 to
Take center 7.
8 to
.;'4
of
is
1
1
the
—
8.
5 is 3^/2 inches.
to 7, 6 to 5, 5 '4 inches.
shown.
is
inch; 12 to 13
is
-Vj
inch; 3 to 2
is
Shape as shown.
place sleeve in blouse, bring notch A. whicli
8
in
B
to
If).
20
P'or cuff 11 to
l.s
underarm of square
u\).
sleeve,
on point L
in
blouse.
2
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
<x'
Oi
Diagram 87
171
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
172
BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE. Diagram 88
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hip
41
inches
Shoulder Heights Front
Across Chest
15>^ inches
Neck
14
inches
Length Back
— 173^
inches
Length of Shoulder
Length Front of Waist.... 734
Shoulder
14
9j4
Height Back to
Waist
7]/^
inches
—
8^ 7%
8J4
—6
inches
— 15>4
inches
5^
inches
inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
Under arm from
T
to 5
is
3 inches.
——
Draw new armhole from
and second lessons for Waists and diagrams 81-82
in first
2
4
3 10 to S.
Draft new sleeve for the blouse.
Draw
line 3 to 22.
10 to 22 is 11 inches, length of sleeve to elbow; 10 to 13 is Zy^ inches, 34 inch less on each inch, the distance from T to 5 at the underarm of blouse.
Square points 3 Square
Draw 3 to 8
1
down
— 10— 13—22 over, 3
V/i inches; 19 to 20 is from 3 to 6, 6 to
18 to 17
3 J4 inches and is 1/2
Shape sleeve
1
is
14 inches.
to 19, 5 to 2 is J^ of bust 4J^ inches
line is
to
1
1
is
1
2 to 4 inch.
1.
to 7
inch; 15 to 16
inch; 21 to 22
;
is
is 1/2
3
K
inches.
inch.
21— 17—14—8-4—7— 12— 11— 1&-20.
This completes sleeve for
this blouse.
is
1>4 inches; 13 to 14
—
12 to 11
is
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 88
175
j
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
174
HOW TO MAKE A KIMONO
SLEEVE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram 89
MEASURES. Back
38
iiu'lies
Acrcjss
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
[lip
41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
.\cross Chest
l.^'j
inches
Shoulder Height Back
Bust
.
.Veck
14
Length Front of Waist
7>4
— 17^2
8'
Neck Height and
inches
Length
inches
indies
14
— 7jj 6 — 8% 7>4 — 15>4 93-^
to Wai.st...
Shoulder
of
inclies
S-}!!
inches
inches inches indict
INSTRLCTKJNS. Lay hack and
Draw
line
IS to 11
is
front
—
shoulders togetiier. allowing between 16
from 18 tlirough 17 10 inches.
S(|uarc i>oints 7
— 12
to 10,
1')
to 8
—
l.v
inch.
inches, length of sleeve to elbow.
.Square over 11 to
down
17, J4
7.
7 inclies.
t'onnect
1,^
with
11 8.
to 12 I'roni
is
6 inches.
If)
to
''
is
1
inch.
Shape bottom as shown. At the underarm of waist on back pari we gain At the underarm of waist on front part we lose
Shape
tlie
underarm of waist
at
12
—7
'4
1
inch,
inch,
round as shown.
from
from
14 to 7.
.^
to 6.
original line to 12,
and 21
to 22.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 89
175
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
176
KIMONO WAIST WITH AN UNDER GORE WORKED FROM A BLOCK PATTERN Diagram 90
MEASURES. Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
.41
inches
Shoulder Height Front
15J^ inches
Shoulder Heights Back
Hips Across Chest
Neck Length Front of Waist
7
.14
inches
SJ^ inches
15
inches
Neck Height
— 17
inches
Length of Shoulder
— 8J4 — 6 7^ — 9j4
of Waist
inches
7j/$
inches
15J/2
inches
5-34
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Take your
plain shirtwaist pattern, lay the
two shoulders together and mark the whole blouse
as
diagram shows.
Cut back, neck and front out of pattern.
F
Bring point
drawn
again, and
Measure on
to
G
line
Square over S
From S
T
to J
is
1
G
to I
Now
connect
You
will
and S
M
L
with L,
lose
from L
B
E down
is
with is
to
open the pattern
;
is
is
the length of sleeve to elbow.
8 inches.
J,
6% inches R with N,
on each
and
N
side.
with P.
our original pattern. 1
and
N
to 2
we
allow between
B and
C, which
is
3>^ inches.
C, which gives us point E. to
D, Syi inches, underarm blouse, the same as
square on point A, which
L
—T
diagram shows.
to P. as
N, which
take the center of
and
Now
T
see the dotted line
Square on point
Now
which
P.
G
line
diagram shows.
18 inches, which
is
to
as
middle
inch.
L and
The amount we
Then
G —T
line
to get
7^4 inches.
is
Square over to
and break your pattern
which
S,
Shape from J through
From
H
exactly on
is
IOJ/2 inches,
underarm
sleeve,
L
to
M
and
the same distance as
N N
to R. to
to J.
connect the underarm to the body by bringing
V
to Y,
X
to
K,
U
to
Q
and
W
to
O.
P
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
DlAGRAM 90
177
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
178
MANISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. Diagram
91
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
A
A
%
to 7 is 4^/2 inches, of 17 to B is J4 of bust measure, taken off the length for the cuff.
line
to B.
inches.
Square 28
23
to
Draw
given points.
all
C
to D.
yi inch
is
line
from
inches.
To 'ilic
A
to
C
is
Complete box for ;
A
22 to 21
to 5
and
is
i)ust ">
measure.
B
inches.
7 to 17
to 28
14 inches. 4 inches less than
J/-
is
'4
is
3 inches.
of bust measure, 9 These 3 niches are
of bust measure.
down
Scjuare
sleeve.
^2 inch
5 to C.
C
;
14 to 15
to 4
is
is
1
inch
:
3'j inches;
16 to 17 .\
to 3
is is
1
3j
inch 24 to inches; 1 :
2.5
is
to 2
_>
1
is
inch. !'/
Shape sleeve as shown.
make
o])ening in sleeve, from 23 to 27 is 4''.. inches. .Square u]) to 27, 5]/' inches to 20. piece set on over opening, is IJ/ inches wide, as shown, from 27 to 26. 20 to 19 and uj) to 18.
l''or
cuff,
draw
line
11
tn 13.
')
inches,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
the distance of 12 '\ whicli sleeve to fit cuff' at 13 to 11.
is '/j
Take center is
break
at
12.
line for
s(|uarc uj) to 9, 6 inches.
turn back cuti.
From 22
to
8 and 10
23 gather
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
OlAGKAM
91
179
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR
180
HOW
WOM:i:N.
TO MAKE SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL. Diagram 92
INSTRUCTIONS. Measure from
Draw
from the bottom of
a line
32 to 21
the deepest point of neck, 22 to
is 2-34
inches, 34 inch
Square over on 35 to 36
24â&#x20AC;&#x201D;26,
1
inch.
26 through 23 to 24.
more than back neck measure.
\y^ inches to 25, standing band, and over to 35.
Yi inch allowed for spring.
is
Shape back Shape
line
lapel at
22>.
line of collar
collar
and
lapel as
from
25, 24, 21 to 36.
diagram shows.
Place separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar.
To
trace out lapel, break on line 26, 24, turn paper under, will
and trace out the shape of
lapel,
which
be reversed on opposite side.
HOW
TO MAKE NOTCH COLLAR. Diagram9J
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
which gives the notch.
Shape as shown.
in
shawl collar with the exception from 19
to
18,
draw
line
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 92
Diagram 93
181
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
1«2
HOW TO MAKE A LAY-DOWN COLLAR FROM BLOCK
PATTERN
WITHOUT STAND BAND. Diagram 94
i.\srRi'(
Lay hack ami fniiU
sIkiuIcKts idi^elhcr al
|iijiiUs
case 4 inclics.
Al
liacls
Shape
fniiii
_'
t(i
1
allow
collar as sluiwn fiMin
'4
.1
iiicli
for
— —2 — 1
spriiijj;.
3 to
'1.
ri(
4
)Ns.
—
7.
Make
cc)llai"
any
(k-sircil
wiiltli.
in
Uiis
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
DiACUAM
94
I83
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
184
HOW TO MAKE A
SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN
WITHOUT STAND BAND. Diagram 95
INSTRUCTIONS.
Lav front and back shoulders together case from neck to 6
from 6
Draw
straight line
From
2 to
Draw
line frorr 3 to
1
shown.
is
is
at
—
Collar
is
•/.
Make
collar
any desired length,
in thii
6 inches.
to 4.
spring. J4 inch allowed for 1.
points 4
Square over on
this line 7
7 inches deep in back.
inches to
5.
Shape
collar
—
from 6
5
a=
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
DlAGKAil 95
185
Sl^irts
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
188
HIPLESS
OR HOBBLE SKIRTS
ONE
IN
PIECE.
U1AGR.AM 96
MEASURES. Length Side
inches
Waist
-25
Hip
41 inches
433/2
Length Bacl<
45 inches
42
Length Front
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw Hne A
A
C
to
4
is
inches.
A
Square over
We
F and C
to
to
E
inches '> of
12J{>
waist measure
pkis
5 inches are taken out
between the darts
K
C
to
F
to I
F
Draw
in
this
case
skirl.
with E. j^ inch.
is is
inches,
waist Hne.
at
allow these 5 inches in order to have less sweep at the bottom of
Connect
-S
inches.
17^/2
These
B.
J4 inch.
K
waist line from
to
Measure down from waist Measure hip from
Draw back
line
DG
from
K
Front length from
I.
6 inches to dotted line
line
ZOyz inches,
G
through
I
G.
of hip measure.
j<2
H
to
D
45 inches.
42 inches.
to B,
Side length, 433-^ inches, and shape bottom as shown.
This completes the box for hipless
From
front Hne
hip Hne
(mi
skirts.
measure from
I)
to
T
j!-4 inches.
T
to
S 6j^ inches; S
inches.
At waist
line
K
Measure from
X
is
3 inches,
X
to
to
P
34 inch,
X
to (J
to
X
Shape dart from V -Measure from
W
to
Shape dart from S -Measure from
Y
to
U
is
Y
to
P and V
to
N
to 1.
I34 inches
N 1
to
and S inch,
Y
to
VV
10
and
\\
M.
to J
L and U
This completes the hipless
skirt.
}i
inches, incli.
.\
and VV to
V"
( ),
1
inch.
53^ inches.
Shape dart through U
is
to J.
to
M
1
Hi
inches.
to is
Y
is
6 inches.
5 inches.
to
R
63/2
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 96
189
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
190
EMPIRE SKIRT. Diagram^/
MEASURES. \\ aisi
41
.__
Length hroul Length Hack
inches inches
-'3
-
ilip
Length Side
4.^'..
4.i
ihcIk'.-
47 inchcinches
l\s'J4-;ii;ti()XS.
hue
)ra\\
1
A
C
-\,
11.
4 inches. Si|uare over from .\ lu to
is
case l7'/2 inches. with E. Connect
1'
ami These
Ici
(
1'..
li'j inches. taken
3 inches are
'
waisl measure iilu> hetween darts at waist
of
j
(JUt
.^
inches,
ni
thi>
line!
I*"
C
to
K
F
to
I
is
is
'
_>
-5/4
inch.
of an inch.
Draw
waist Hne K, L Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. .Measure hip, D. G. which is 20' 2 inches. '2 of hip measure. Til make skirt Empire, measure up from the natural waist line, K. I, _' inches, which gi\es us ])oints Z and O. Lonnect Z to O. Xow draw a hne from O through 1, ii hi 11. A7 inches, length of skirl in hack. The front length from Z to H. 44 inches.
Side length, 45J/2 inches. This completes the ijox of lunjiire .Skirt. From front D to T on hi]) is 3',j inches. T to S is Gyi inches. S Id R is 6y.i inches. (
)n
natural waist hne
Draw
a line
from
T
K
to
X
is
through
.3
X
niches,
X
to
W
is
to Enipn-e waist
(1
inches,
W
and
to
\'
is
n inches.
line.
'4 inch. At natural waisl line measure from X to 1' '4 inch and X to inch, and shape At top of waist line measure from 8 to ') % inch and from S to 7, shown. to Em|)ire waist line. Draw a line from S through ; inch to M. From \\" measure V4 inch to .\ and from to 4, is.\s inch. to 6, is -Vs inch, and from .\t top of waist line measure from Shape dart as shown. Draw a line from R through \ to luiijiire waist line. Measure from Y to L s,s inch and from ^' to J S-s inch. At top of waist line measure from 2 to 3. ' j inch and 2 to T, is '/. inch. (
)
,'
W
W
.'i
Y
to
U
is
,s
J
.3
5 inches.
.Sha])e dart as
shown.
_
<lari
as
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Df.\(.u.\M
97
191
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
192
HOBBLE SKIRT WITH SIDE PLEAT Diagram 98
MEASURES. Waist
25 inches
Front, length
40 inches
Hip
41 inches
Right, length
42 inches
Back, length
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS
Follow same instruction as given 9
is
the center of
from 9 up
B H.
Draw
to 3-15 inches,
from 9 over
to
line
from
in
diagram 99, Page 194, with exception,
W.
to 9.
To form
bottom
inverted pleat in the side, measure
from 3 over to 4-5-2-1-li inches to each point.
10-11-8-7-2 inches to each point.
at
This completes
skirt.
At bottom, measure
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 98
193
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
194
HOBBLE SKIRT
j
Diagram 99
MEASURES. Waist
25 inches
Front, length
40 inches
Hip
41 inches
Right, length
42 inches
Back, length
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
A
a line
C
to
A — B.
4 inches.
is
S.-juare over.
A
to
F and C
These
to
3 inches
have
to
E
are taken out between the dart at waist
sweep
less
Connect
F
with E.
K
is
^
G F
to to
I is
Draw
M
12>4 inches, ^j of waist measure plus 5 inches,
is
at the
K
Measure hip from line hip,
line
inches.
allow these 5 inches
skirt.
inch. to
I.
Measure down from waist
Draw
We
17',-2
inch.
waist line
At front
Dottom of
line.
case
in this
from 2
line
6 inches
to dotted line
D—G, 20J^ inches. J4 of from D to F is 4 inches, B through T to x. X to P is
D— G.
hip measure, 41 inches. to 2 is 6 inches at bottom. >'2
inch and x to
O
is
>4 inch.
Shape dart as shown. .^t
back on
hip,
Square over 3
Y
to
L
is i/i
G
to
R
to
1,
draw
Y
inch.
3 inches at bottom, 3to
is
from
line
to J
^
is
1
is
Ayi inches.
3 to
H
through R to Y.
1
inch.
Shape as shown.
Take the center Take
Draw
of
R and T
—O
the center of
L
from S
to
line
W.
Measure up from bottom 12 inches
from 2
at
on
hip.
waist
W
to
skirt to
which gives us point
line,
N
is
S.
which gives us point \^^ D'4 inches.
Q.
to Z.
12 inch cut through the side panel as shown,
W
to
M
is
l;4 inches.
is
5 inches.
in
ordci
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 99
195
L
1
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMSN.
96
PANTALOON
SKIRT.
Diagram 100
MEASURES. Waist
-
Hip
IS inclies
Length Front
41 inches
Length Side
Length Back
45
42
inches
43>..
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw hne A B. to C is 4 inches. Square over A to F and C
A
to
E
12>2 inches, >2 of waist measure phis
5
indies, in this case
inches.
These 5 inches are taken out Connect F" with E.
C to K is 3^2 inch. F to I is -yi inch. Draw waist hne K
O
L
to
3^ the distance between From P to VV is /2 inch. Draw new waist line from is
at the
waist hne, between the dart and at center back.
Kâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;
K
througii
W
to
1.
K. W. inches to dotted D G is 20J/2 inches, ".^ of hip measure. Draw back line from I through G to H, 45 inches. Side length, 43/2 inches. Front length, 42 inches. Shape bottom as shown. This completes bo.x.
Measure down from new waist
line
line
front, from K down to 14 is 14yj inches. Square over from 14, 6>4 inches to 11. .At
14 to 12
is
23/ inches.
At bottom, from B to 10 .Shape to]) as shown. .\t
l)Ottom, 7
Draw
is
1/2
is
the distance l)et\\een
from 7 up to W. At waist line, measure from line
W to N W to M
6y2 inches.
W down to
234 inches. is Zyi inches. From S to U. 4 inches. From S to T, 4 inches. At bottom, 7 to 8 is 6 inches. 7 to 6 is 6 inches, draw line. Shape top gores as shown. At center back on waist line I to .At
G
to
Z
S, 16>4
inches for pleat.
X
is
3S inch.
34 inch.
is
From I measure down Square over from 3 to is
H.
is
hip to
3 to 2
I!
to 3, IH'/j inches. 1,
8 inches.
234 inches.
At bottom From H to 4 is 8 inches, draw line. Shape top as shown. The front and back panels arc cut separate from
K
O
tjic
skirt.
3 inches. At bottom, B to 9 is 6 inches At back. to is 3 inches. At bottom. to 5 is 6 inches. Shape as shown. Center front and back panels are cut on the fold of material.
X
H
to
Y
is
D
G.
17'/.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN,
Diagram 100
197
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
198
CIRCULAR SKIRT. Diagram
101
MEASURES. Waist
25 inches
Leng-th Front
42
inclies
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
43'/2
inches
Length Back
45
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
A
C
to
A
a line is
B.
4 inches.
A
Square over from
F
Connect to
K
is
1
F
to
I
is
3 inches.
straight
Q
R
1^
Draw new
K
hne connecting
the center of is
S'/^
is
inches.
i)()int
U.
inches.
K
waist line from
Measure hip
D
Draw
from
a line
with L
K, which gives us
I
through
Measure down from new waist
The
E
to
inch.
Take to
F and C
with E.
C
D^aW
to
to G,
front length
I
which
is
line
21
through
G
to
K
B
is
from
to
R
to
6 inches
1.
to dotted line
inches, /> of hip
H
D
G.
measure.
45 inches, the length of skirt
in back.
42 inches.
Side length, 43j/^ inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows.
To make
inverted pleat at the center back, go out at waist line from
from
N
to
At the bottom go out from
To form
I
to
N
2 inches and 2 inches
M.
H
to
L
5 inches
inverted pleat, take up on line
This completes the circular
skirt.
I
H
and
L
to J 5 inches.
and meet
at center
back
line
M
J.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
lul
199
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
200
THREE-GORE SKIRT. Diagram
102
MEASURES. 25 inches
Waist
Hip
42
Length
Draw hne A
A
C
to
inches
Length Front
42
Length Side
iSyi inches
A5
l!ack
inches
B.
4 inches.
is
Square over
A
F and C
to
to
E
K
to
12'/2 inches, whicli
is
'/j
of
waist measnrc phis
this case 14 inches.
Connect
F
with E.
From C
to
K
F
to I
Draw Take
is
is
1^
inch.
1
inches.
a straight
hne from
K
the center of
and
1.
from
I.
Shape new waist hne fnim
through
1\.
Draw
D
a line
G, which
R
from
through
I
K
Front length from
B
to
At the bottom B
Draw
a line
to
from
V
G
inches to dotted line
O
Shape gore from P
to
S
is
R
to
is
to II, 4-5 inches, length
is
is
R
to
X
7 inches.
T
to L.
an inch and L
J4 of
T and O
Shape dart from
N
to
1
of skirt in back.
.-kirt.
to
to T.
T
to G.
4 inches.
Measure from
G.
3 inches.
about yi the distance from
S
D
42 inches.
is
through
to
Measure from L
T
to \'
inch to
L
to
This completes the box for a three gore
D
j
and shape bottom as diagram shows.
.Side length, 43J/2 inches,
[Moni gore at hip
'
inches, JX of hip measure.
21
is
20 measure down
this point
Measure down from new waist hne Measure
inches
inch and
S and
M
This completes the three gore
R
to .M
to S. skirt.
1
inch.
F
J/^
of an inch.
iv.
1/j
indies,
in
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 102
201
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
202
FIVE-GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT. Diagram 10^
MEASURES. --•
Waist Measure--
Hip
inches
Measure
Length
42
iiiclies
42 inches
-
INSTRUCTIONS. 1
Follow
the h\e-gore skirl exacth' as described in the
following lesson, diagram, 104, page
201^. 2.
C
to
C
to
y L
IS
is
,',4
16 inches, or ji of 21 inches, 'j of hip measure plus '4 inch.
Flounce from
L
H
as a pivcjt,
Using
Q
inches.
Inp measure, lU'j
to j
in
hack
is
inches,
1(>
sweep top of flounce
as a pivot,
sweep curve B
and
in
front,
R
to
K
K — R.
—
1.
1
is
from
IJ
to
K, 8 inches.
measures the same as
straight through
R
to y.
K
L'sing
to j.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
us
Diagram
10 <
s
203
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
204
GORE
FIVE *
Diagram
SKIRT. 104
MEASURES. Waist
25 inches
Length
liip
42 inches
Length Side
Lengtli
l'"rnnt
47
llacU
43
inches
45>'2
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. i'ollnw
same instructions for
l:)Ox
as given for three gore skirt in diagram 102, pagelOP, witli the This gore is ol)tained by taking 16 the (hstance from \' to
exception of an extra gore. H, which gives us point U.
Take
,!/>
the distance
Xow draw
a line
Measure from
R
Measure from R
from
from to
N
I' 1
to AI
This completes the
fi\'e
1
T
to
G
on
hip.
which gives us point
S.
through S to R.
inch. inch,
gored
''â&#x201A;Ź
and
sliape gore
skirt.
from
N
to
.S
;md
M
to
J.7
S as diagram sliows.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 104
205
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
206
SEVEN GORE SKIRT. DlAGR,\M 105
1'
MEASURES. Waist
25 inches
Length Front
42
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
43>4 inches
Length Back
Draw
A
C
to
A
line
B.
A
Square over from
F and C
to E, 12y, inches, Yi of waist measure plus 4 inches, in These 4 inches are taken out between the darts as at top of waist
to
case 16J/2 inches.
C !
F
to
K
is
to
I
is
Draw
1
inch.
1^
inches.
Measure down from
Draw
hip,
line
D
to G,
from
I
Front length from
K
from
straight line
Measure
thi,--
line.
with E.
the center of K,
Take
inches
4 inches.
is
Connect
45
inches
L
to
go down
I,
and draw, new waist
'^ incii
ne:w waist line 6 inches to dotted line
which
K
B
to
to
is
to G.
21 inches, '6 oi hip measure.
is
G
through
D
line.
H, 45 inches, the length of
skirt
in
back.
42 inches.
Side length, 43>2 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows.
This completes the box for a seven gore foundation. All skirts with
The
B
front gore at hip,
to 3 at bottom
From
Now .-\t
more than seven gores require the same foundation.
this
line ÂĽ%
is
5
D
to T,
Draw
inches.
measure inch
take the distance from us points S and R.
T
3 inches.
is
a line
to
3 to
H
a line from 2 through S to waist
From
this line
From
1
inch to
N
and
and divide equally
This completes the seven gore
skirt.
to T,
and
O
to T.
each, which gives
into 3 gores of 12 inches each,
which
line. 1
Inch to
M, and shape gore from
From this a line through R to waist line. K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R.
draw
to
to waist line.
O and 34 inch to P, and shape gore from P G and divide equally into 3 gores of 6 inches
Draw
1
T
to
bottom take the distance from gives us points 1 and 2.
measure
from 3 through
line
N
measure ^s inch
to to
M to S. and % inch
S and
L
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
105
207
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
208
GORE
NINE
SKIRT.
Diagram 106
MEASURES. \\'aist
25 inches
Length Front
4,^
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
45>2 inches
Length Back
47
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. same instructions for box
P'ollow
The front gore
B
to
Draw
4
at
bottom
is
D
to T.
page lOh.
254 inches.
is
T
to waist hne.
and shape gore from P
to
T
l''rom this line
and
()
measure
>4
inch to
P and
^4
inch
to T.
the distance from T to G and divide equally into 4 gores of 43/2 inches each, which gives us points S, R and O.
At bottom take
the same distance from 4 which gives us jioints 3, 2 ami 1.
Draw
10.^,
6 inches.
a line from 4 through to O,
Take
at hip.
diagram
as given in
a line to
from
a line
From
this line
Draw
a line from 1,
from 2 thr(jugh R
1
through
O
This completes the nine gore
M
S and
this line
into 4 gores of
measure
s,s
C)-54
inch to
inches each,
N and
'^.s
inch
to S.
to waist line.
measure rn inch
and shape gore from
to
and divide equally
From
3 through S to waist line.
M, and shape gore from N
Draw
to II
to
L and
inch to K, and shape gore from
.\s
From
to waist line. J
to
skirt.
O
and
I
to
O.
this line
measure
',2
L
to
inch to
R J,
and 'j
K
to R.
inch to
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 106
209
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
210
ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE. Diagram
107,..'
MEASURES. Waist Hip
3*+
-
Length Front Length Side
inches
48 inches
Length Back
45
42
inches inches
433/1
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
A
to
a Hne
C
is
4
A
B.
inches.
Square over from A to F and C to E, 17 inches, y2 of waist measure plus 3 inches These 3 inches are taken out between the darts at waist hne. case 20 inches. Connect F with E. Draw a straight line from C to F. Take the center from C F, go down >4 inch and draw a new waist hne. Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. Measure hip, D, G, which is 24 inches, >2 of hip measure. Draw a line from F through G to H. 45 inches, the lengtli of skirt in hack. Side length, 43>4 inches. Front length from C to B is 42 inches. Shape bottom as diagram shows. Measure down from C to 5 14 inches, which is 1-3 length of skirt, 42 inches. of an inch. Measure from 5 to 6, Draw a new front line from B through 6 to X, the distance from C to the front line is inch in this case, and measure up the same distance to X. Draw a straight line X to V, which is eased in over the fullest part of the stomach.
;
in
this
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
^
The
,
D to Y, is iVi inches. 6 inches. 5 through to Y to waist line of an inch to \5. and shape gore from
front gore at
B to 5 at bottom Draw a line from
p/s
of an
liip,
is
Y
from
;
\
to
this line
Y
and
U
measure
'4
of an inch to
\"
and 34
to Y.
G
and divide equally into 5 gores, 4 inches each, which gives u.s to points T, S, R and Q. .\\. the bottom take the distance from 5 to H, anr' divide equally into 5 gores of 8 inches each, give us points 4, 3, 2 and 1. Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. From this line measure '/ of an inch to P and Y^ to T. of an inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and Draw a line from 3 through S to -waist line, from this line measure >4 of an inch to N and Yz of to S. to S and an inch to M, and shape gore from Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure J/, inch to L and Y2 inch to K.
Take the distance from
O
M
N
Shape gore from L to R and K to R. line from 1 through O to waist this line measure l^ of an inch and I to Q.
Draw From
This completes the 11 gore
line.
to T
and
skirt, for a figure
V^ of an inch to
I,
with a high stomach.
and shape gore from
J to
O
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 107
211
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR
212
WOM:i:N.
ELEVEN GORE FLARE. Diagram 108
MEASURES. Waist
25 inches
Length Front
43
inches
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
45J-4
inches
Length Back
47
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box as given
D
Front gore
at hip,
B
6 inches.
to 15
Draw
is
to
Y
to
G
15 to
a line from 9 through S to waist
From
this line
Draw
and divide equallv
I,
Draw
measure
V
N
5^ inch to
a line from 3 through
From
O
into S gores,
yi inch to
this line
measure
which gives us points
Yb inch to
P and
^
inch
to T.
line.
%
and
'^ch to
M, and shape gore from
N
Q
from
line,
K
to
S and from
to waist line,
and shape gore from J
to
O
and
this line
measure
this line
measure Y& inch
J/ inch to L, Y2 inch to
I to
from Q.
to J
the flare on this skirt go down from waist line 12 inches on each gore. front gore go out 1 inch from 15 io 14.
The second gore
2 inches
from 15
to 16,
and
third gore 2 inches
and 9 to
8.
The
fourth gore 2 inches from 9 to 10 and G to
5.
Fifth gore 2 inches from 6 to
Trace out gores
U
No. 2 from
1,
2 and
3,
and 3
7,
Sixth gore 2 inches from 3 to
No.
to 13,
4, 1
At the bottom
U
to
1
Y
H.
to
5
inches for the flare
to 16, across
bottom
to 11,
up
down to
T
center.
and P, over
at waist line.
M
to S, 10 across
bottom to
No. 3 from I Q 4 over bottom to H, up and over to waist line to I.
The other
Y& inch to
to 2.
and from
from
and
12 to 11.
The
from 12
K,
to R.
To add
to
and
to S.
a line from 6 through R to waist and shape gore from L to R and
I,
inch to
ar d divide equally into 5 gores of ^Yz inches each, which gives
a line from 12 through T to waist hne. to O, and shape gores from P to T and
M
^
and Q.
At bottom take the distance from 12, 9, 6 and 3.
Draw
page 20U
a line from 15 through Y to waist line, from this line go out U, and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y.
R
Draw
105,
Y, 3 inches.
the distance from us points T, S,
Take
diagram
in
5
up
to
G
tc
R. L, and over to
and
I,
go
in
Ya-
M
inch to
to waist line. I at
the center back
lint
three remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched one after the other.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 108
213
>
214
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
THIRTEEN GORE PLEATED SKIRT Diagram 109
MEASURES. Waist
25 inches
Length Front
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
Length Back
45
43
inches
45^2 inches inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20u Front gore at hip, D to Z, is 3 inches. Ij to 17 at bottom is inches. Draw a line from 17 through Z to waist line. From this line measure '/i inch to X and ;,4 inch to W, and shape gore from X to Z and to Z. Now take the distance from Z to G and divide equally into 6 gores of 2f4 inches each, which gives us points Y, T, S. R and g. At the bottom take the distance from 7 to Fl and divide equally into b gores 7^4 inches each, which gives us points 14, 11, 8, 5 and 2. Now draw a line from 14 through Y to waist line. From this line measure :Ks of an inch to V and -/fi of an inch to I', and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y. iJraw a line from 11 through T to waist line; from this line measure 'j inch to 1' and inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T. Draw a line from 8 tlirough S to waist line. From this line measure ;>ii of an inch to .\ and j/g, of an inch to M. and shape gore from N to S and to S. Draw a line from 5 through R to waist line. From this line measure -ji of an inch to L and Vn of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. Draw a line from 2 through O to waist line. From this line measure J4 '"^-h to [ and V4 inch to I, and shape gore from J to O and I to O. To make pleats in skirt, measure down from waist line any depth desired, in this case 18 inches down on front gore and 1 inch higher on each gore to the back. To make the pleats in skirt, measure from the straight line 1 inch to 30 and 1 inch to 29. From straight line 1 inch to 28 and 1 inch to 27. |_' From straight line I inch to 26 and 1 inch to 25. From straight line 1 inch to 24 and 1 inch to 23.1 I'Vom straight line 1 inch to 22 and 1 inch to 21. From straight line 1 inch to 20 and 1 inch to 19. At the bottom of skirt measure 2 inches at the first gore from 17 to 16. second gore 2 inches from 17 to 18 and 2 inches from 14 to 13, third gore 2 inches from 14 to 15 and 2 inches from 11 to 10, fourth gore 2 inches from 11 to 12 and 2 inches from 8 to 7, fifth gore 2 inches from 8 to 9, 2 inches from 5 to 4, sixth gore 2 inches from 2 to 3. To trace out gores 1. 2 and 3. .\o, 1 from \V to Z to straight line over to 30, down to 18, across bottom to 13, and up to 27. over to straight line up to Y and V, across waist line to W. No. 2 from O to T, down straight line, over to 26, down to 12, across the bottom to 7, up to 23 to straight line, up to S, to N, over to waist line to O. No. 3 from K R to straight line over to 22. down to 6, across bottom to 1, up to 19, over to straight line, up to O to J, across waist line to K. The other four remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched on after the other. This completes the 13 gore pleated skirt.
W
'
M
..
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
1
09
215
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
216
GORE
FIFTEEN
Diagram
1
SKIRT.
10
MEASURES. Length Front Length Side
25 inches 42 inches
Waist Hip
Length Back
43
inches
ASyi inches inches
.....47
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions for box as given
The front gore at hip, B to 7 at bottom is 6
Draw From
3 to T, inches.
is
diagram
in
105,
page 20L)
3 inches.
a line from 7 through 3 to waist line. measure 54 of an inch to 2. ^4 of an inch to 1, and shape gore from 2 to 3 and Now take the distance from 3 to G, and divide equally into 7 gores of 25<2 inches 1 to 3. and Q. each, which gives us points Z, Y, T, S, and divide equally into 7 gores of 5 inches each, Take the distance at the bottom from 7 to which gives us points 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 ana 1. Draw a line from 6 through Z to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch to X, }i of to Z and from to Z. an inch to W, and shape gore from Draw a line from 5 through T to waist line. and Vz inch to U, and shape gores from V to Y and U From this line measure ^2 inch to this line
R
H
X
W
V
to Y. a line
from 4 through T to waist line. measure yi inch to P and Vj inch to O. Shape gore from P to T and O to T. Draw a line from 3 through S to waist linÂŤ_ From this line measure -Is of an inch to N and fi of an inch to M. to S. Shape gore from N to S and Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. Draw a line from 1 through O to waist line. From this line measure ^4 of an inch inch to L Shape gore from J to Q and Q to L
Draw From
this line
M
This completes the 15 gore
skirt.
to
L and
yi
and
yi
to J
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 110
217
Riding Habits
and Breeches
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
220
SAFETY RIDING SKIRT. Diagram
ill
MEASURES. Hip Waist
:
42 inches
Length
42 inches
25 inches
Side
43 inches
Back
44 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Front part, draw
Square over on Hne
A
A—B
is 3^4 inches; inches to 7 inches; to 3
to 12
;
A — B,
line
A A
A
41J4 inches.
C
to
49 inches.
A
is 5 inches; to 10 is 5M inches; A to 9 is 7 inches; A to 8 is 8 9y2 inches A to 9 is 14^/1 inches A to 5 is 29^ inches A to 4 is 333/2 35>^ inches; A to 2 is 39 inches; A to 1 is 4I>^ inches; to C is 49
to 11
is
;
;
;
A
is
inches.
Square downon
all
the given points.
12 to 13 is Yi inch; 11 to 14 is 1^4 inches; 10 to 15 is 2 inches; 9 to 16 is 2>4 inches; 8 to 17 is 2^4 inches; 7 to 18 is inches; 5 to 31 is 7^)4 inches; 4 to 30 is 5^4 inches; 3 to 29 is 6j^ inches; to 35 is 19 inches. 2 to 34 is 16 inches; 1 to 28 is 1>4 inches; C to 17 is 25 inches;
2%
D
to
B
Connect
B
to 25
is
is
41)4 inches.
—D.
D
3 inches
;
to
A
26
is
22
to
8 inches. is
Liii^.ii:i«r^
5>4 inches
;
A
to 23
is 7>34
inches
;
A
to
24
is
11 inches.
Square over the given points. 22 to 36
is
At waist
line,
Draw
3|4 inches; 23 to 20
from 14
to 15
1
to 19, 21 inches,
]/>
7^2 inches.
inch for dart.
waist line from 13 through
Measure down from waist
Make
is
is
all
points to
line 6 inches to dotted line for hip. of hip measure.
a buttonhole at point 28; a loop at 29
Between points 34
6.
—35 make a loop
;
a strap at point 31, 14 inches long,
line
from 13—14
1
line
from 21
inch wide.
for foot to rest.
Place pocket on left side front, any desired length or shape. the opening.
Draw
Measure dotted
The heavy
line in
pocket indicates
— 15—16—17—18—6—19—31—30—29—28—27—26—25—24—21—13.
This completes skirt shown
in
illustration.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
111
221
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
222
BACK PART OF '-"
SKIRT.
Diagram 111
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
A — B,
line
34-)4 inches.
Square down over on
A
to
A A A A
to i7
A A
to 52
A A A A
A— B
46 inches to C.
lYz inches.
is
]
line
to 36
5^ is 7%
to 35
is
10 inches.
to 34
is
11
is
\2y2 inches.
is
to 31
is
to 29
is
inches. inches.
inches.
133/2 inches.
17 inches. .
28
is
26>4 inches.
to 27
is
39/2 inches.
to
to
C
is
i
46 inches.
Square over on these given points. 1
to 2 is
434 inches.
i7 to 39
36 to 4
is
10^
inches, to 38
is
15 inches, to 14
is
1434 inches, 35 to 5
is
9 inches, 34 to8
is
is
18'4 inches; 15 to 17
is
15 inches, 32 to 6
11%
is
2734 inches. inches, 31
to 7
103^ inches, 29 to 30 is Yi inch, 28 to 2i is 24'/, inches. 27 to 24 is 22 inches, C to 25 is 11)4 inches, C to 26 is 4 inches, A to 10 is 16 inches, A to 11 is 18 inches, A to 12 is 19 inches. A to 16 is 2434 inches, A to 18 is 303^2 inches, to B is 3414 inches.
is
A
Square down 18 -Square
From
down B
11
to 13
to 20, 18 inches. to 19, 14 inches.
is
3'!'
Shape dart from
Draw
inch, 12 to 15
15 to 14,
13 to
-^.s
inch.
14.
— —
1.^ waist line from 16 13 to 10. for hip. Measure dotted line. 17
Measure down from waist
—
19,
IO34 inches, J4 of
For other part of skirt shape waist line from 2 to 6 inches. For hip, measure dotted line 3 to straight line from 20 to 2i.
From 20 Shape
to 22
skirt
is
4 inches, 22 to 21
from
is
37. 33,
6 inches to dotted measure.
line
li'P
Measure down from waist IO34
inches,
;4
of
to dotted line Draw hip measure.
334 inches.
37—33—30—28—26—25—24—23—21—20—19—17—16—15—13—10—9
—8—7—5—6-4—3—2. At point 19 ease
in
]/>
inch between notches.
Place button at back of skirt 3 inches from
5.
line
This completes the back part of
skirt.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
1
12
223
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
SAFETY RIDING HABITS
SHOWING THE DIFFERENT POSITIONS
225
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
226
RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE). FRONT PART. Diagram
11}
MEASURES. 25
Waist
Hips
inches
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
lines
1
—3
and
1
to 4
is
ly^ inches,
1
to 7
is
20 inches,
Square points 4 to 9
is
—
2.
to 6
1
to 5
1
4, 6, 8,
8 inches,
1
to 8 is 12J^
il inches,
1
to 3
is
is
7 and
—
Square down from 32 to
line
7^
is
TYi inches, 7 to 12
Connect 3 with 31, 31
on
5
inches, 6 to 10
is 2^/2
8 to 11
1
is
1
inches.
46J^ inches.
is
—
3.
inches, 6 to 13
is
8J^ inches.
6^4 inches, 5 to 31
is
47 inches.
17 inches.
32,
Zl, 3^^ inches.
Draft bottom line from 3 to 23, to
31.
1
to 15
is
12 inches,
1
to 16
is
12>j inches,
1
to 19 is 213^2
1
to
20
is
25 inches,
1
to 21
is
30>4 inches,
1
to 2
Now
square points
15 to 14
2 to 25
Now
is
16,
19,
734 inches, 16 to 17
534 inches, 2 to 26
21 and 2 on line is
is 6-'4
square points 25, 26, 30 and
25 to 24
Now
is
15,
is
draft
2Y\ inches, 26 to 27
is
is
inches, 2 to
29 on line 2 1
'
4
30
—
is
2.
is
is
is 3j/2
inches.
10>< inches.
29.
and back,
This finishes our front part.
XIV^ inches, 21 to 22
9 inches, 2 to 29
inches, 30 to 21
3—5—7—9—10^11—13—14—18 pocket.
—
4 inches, 19 to 18
to 31. 11 to 12
34-J4 inches.
is 1
inches.
is
634 inches, 29 to 28
is
5>2 inches.
17—20—22—23—24—27—28—30 down
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
227
Yront part
'-i^
^32
33
DiAGRAMll)
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMZN.
228
RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE), BACK PART. Diagram 1 14
INSTRUCTIONS. For back part draw
A
to
F
is
9 inches,
Square points F, E,
F
to
D
to
C
to
N R
W
to
D
A—C
E
is
A— B. A line A — C.
and
15^
and C on
inches,
Now
15 J/2 inches, F to Q is 25 inches, E to I 35j4 inches, D to S is 36% inches, D to is 44>4 inches, C to V is 45^/2 inches.
G
to
P
is
25^
is
U
to
6-j4
inches,
A
to
C
is
48 inches.
10 inches. is
49i/2 inches.
inches.
line
T— S— Y.
to
D
is
W down X X, Y, C. connect X—V— U—T, X— T
Draft
to
is
Square point Draft bottom
A A
lines
A
A
K
is
38 inches.
A
3 inches, is 6j4 inches, to L is 10j4 inches. to to B is 22>2 inches. 1834 inches, Square points G, K, L and P on line B. to J is 5 inches, L to is 1% inches, P is -54 inch. to is 7 inches, draft down to Y. If the width of the material allows to put the back part in one piece, leave out dotted line.
G H Now
is
A
is
A—
M C— D— F— H— I—J—M— N—O— B—Q— R K
—O
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
Diagram 114
229
5
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
230
DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT Diagram
1 1
MEASURES. Waist measure
25 inches
Lengtii
40 inches
Hip measure
44 inches
Rise
12 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw hne
A— B.
.\
t(.)
C
is
!/4
.\
lo ])
is
waist measure. 2? niciies.
I)
to
is
r.
hip measure,
full
I'se
2.
C
inches.
length. 40 inches.
L'se .\ as a pivot
1)
11
and sweeji
H
to
L and
as a pivot and sweep from
1)
it
inches below
and from F
to J
hi|))
|)oint
V.
do same
to
.\1.
to S.
to E is waist measure plus 3 inches: namely. l.\'/j inches. The o inches o\er are taken out. 1 inch each at the darts 1 12. Darts must he equally apart from 10 and 11 8, 9 I' to \3, and are 1 inch aljove the hip line.
—
—
—
Draw line C through E to G, giving point 13. 13 is now exactly the liij) measure from F. This diagram shows two inverted plaits; one in front and tiie other in liack. Make plaits K L and (> inches at bottom R P O, as dotted line shows: the 2 inches on top D
— —
same 3.
(
L
— —
in back.
N
is Rise measure 12 inches: same with J to T in back: to L' to \' is 6 '4 inches. '4 waist measure: yi waist measure. \nect and W.
J— S— T—
.\
to
O
is 4'/4
inches, 1/6 of waist
measure
The sweep at bottom must be taken 40 more in back.
:
O
inches
to
X
to
T
W
to is
U
is
iyi inches.
7 inches.
— —
Con-
is fi inches. Connect L M O to R. around from waist line, allowing 1 inch
R
all
from
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
231
®A
\<P
^O 12
Diagram
1
1
;
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
232
RIDING BREECHES. Diagram 116
MEASURES. Hip Rise
25
Knee
42
Small of Knee
inches inches ll-M inches inches 30
Waist -
Inseam
16 inches inches 14 14>^ inches 10 inches
Calf
Angle
FOREPART. From A square out and down. to C is 11-34 inches, rise measure. C to E is Yi of inseam less 1 inch, 14
A
E
K
inches.
1 inches, small of knee. K to F is 4 inches for calf. C to B is full insteam, 30 inches. more or C to P is 1/3 of Y/i, hip, 103^ inches, in this case 3^/2 inches. This point changes less, according to larger or smaller sizes. Square over all given points. is 3-4 of hip, 10>2 inches. C to Square up point D to S and down to Al. This completes the box. This point changes y% more or less, according to On hip, to V is 3^ inch, 1/3 of hip. to
is
^
D
D
larger or smaller sizes. D. the distance of is D. is >2 the distance of to S, which locates point T. Draw line from Measure over from S to 28, 34 of waist measure plus
W
V
^
W
Q
Q
S
R
to
is
1
C f
to to
inches are taken out
1 ;/>
inch.
from R through 28 to 17. 17 is 1 inch from point A. Raise waist line from R to S, 28 to 20, 1^2 Shape dart from 25 to 15—14—24—13—14.
Draw
This
V^ inches.
1
13—15.
the dart between
in
line
H
is
inches.
44 inch,
26 is ^2 inch L to 27 is 1 inch 27 to X is 634 inches 7 to Z ;
;
:
Shape forepart from At top, from S R
8 to 7 is y^, inch 6^4 inches 6 to
is
;
20—28— P— H— I—X— Z— 1.
— — T— —26— 27—7— \'
M
:
1
to
is
6
is
2 inches
;
26
to
1
is
7 inches
654 inches.
This completes the forepart.
6.
BACK PART. Draw Draw
line line
from U through from 16 to 17,
T and 83-2
up.
square on an angle to 17. inches more than ;4 of waist measure.
I'lace
inches, 2>2
—
These 2/^ inches are taken out between 19 20. Raise from 17 to 18, 16 to 29, 1>4 inches, and shape dart from
V
to
W
is
2 inches, J to
Measure 26
to
Y
1,7 inches.
is
^
inch,
C
to 12
is
23—20—21—22—19—21.
2 inches.
Place the 7 inches on 26.
Measure over
to 10, 16 inches
knee meas-
ure.
Measure over to 9. 14 inches, Mea.sure from 27 to X 6 inches, and place the 6 inches on 27. small of knee. Measure 7 to Z 6V2 inches. Place the 634 inches on 7, and measure over to O HK- inches for calf.
From 6
to
1
is
5,4 inches.
Place the 5 '4 inches are taken out between 2 and 3. These 2 inches on 6. Measure over to N, 12 inches, 2 inches
more than ankle measure.
Shape as shown. Point 4 is 1/^ inches below calf. Shape back part from 18— 17— 12— 10—9—O—N. 27. At top, from 29— 16— For under lap on back part 9 to 8, N to 5 is 1 3/2 mches.
T— W— Y—
This completes diagram.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
DiAGRA.M
1
16
233
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
234
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS CHILDREN Sizes
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS MISSES AND JUNIORS Sizes
235
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
236
FIRST LESSON. EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. DiACRA.M
119
MEASURES. Bust
28^2
inclies
Shoulder Height Front
Waist
26^/2
inches
Shoulder Height Back
Hip
32
inches
Neck Height of Waist
Across Chest
12
inches
Across
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
Back
—6 6^ — Ayi 5>^ — 11^ 8
13^/2
inches
inches inches
11
4^
Sleeve
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Uraw
A — B.
A
.\ to E is 11 j^ inches, length of 5^4 inches, neck height in back. F to B is inches, second hip. Square over is 4 inches, first hip. C E F B on line A ^B. C to D is 3/2 of bust, 14 '4 inches plus 3 inches allowed for In a three piece coat we allow 3 inches for seams, and in a two seams, 1/34 inches. piece coat we allow 2 inches for seams.
line
waist in back.
— — —
U
to
Q is
is ]4,
to
E
C
is
to
F
—
-I
D
to
G
C
to
I
G— H— I
on
>2 inch allowed for breathing. of bust measure. 2]4, inches.
Square up and down D.
Square up
is is
line
'4 of bust 5^/2
C
inches,
—D.
measure, 4^4 inches. V2 of back measure.
G
to
H
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
237
A
D
a
m^
G
#
#
#
4f>
4^
E
4t)-
B
# Diagram 119
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
238
SECOND LESSON. EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. Diagram 120
MEASURES. Bust
28J/2
inches
Shoulder Height Front
Waist
26^
inches
Shoulder Height Back
Hip
32
inches
Neck Height and
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
—6 6)4 — 4^ — 11% 8
Waist
...5J^
11
inches inches inches inches
4)4 inches
Sleeve
133^2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. For box follow instructions as given
C
Y
to
Y
to
2 inches
is
O
is
6^
;
C
to
P
Draft back neck,
G
H
to
X
is
is
inches, second rhoulder height back.
R
is
O — S,
line
I.
R
to
over A-
S
is
'/z
—P
on
line
A — B.
inch.
4-j4 inches.
to 3 is 6 inches,
8 inches,
2 inches.
found crossing
.'square
A —O.
Draft back shoulder, front.
First l^esson.
inches, first shoulder height back,
In squaring over P. point
At
is 4j/<
in
first
second shoulder height front.
shoulder height front.
Square over
1
Square point
Square point
X
3.
over I34 inches to
17.
X
to
1
to 27.
Draft neck curve, 17 to 27.
Draw
front shoulder chest measure.
from 17
—
to 4.
same length as back shoulder,
O — S.
Z
to 2 is
6 inches, yi of
—
Draft arniscye from S 2 to 4. In drafting a^mscye be careful not to go inside of line I R, also not below bust line. It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully, as nothing can l)e added to an arniscye that is too large, but w hen an armscye is too small it can be made larger. This completes the box.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 17
X
Diagram
120
239
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
240
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD REEFER. Diagram
121
MEASURES. Bust
2834 inches
Shoulder Height Front
Waist
261^ inches
Shoulder Height Back
Hip
32
inches
Neck Height and
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
—6 6>4 — 4^^ — 1L>4 8
Waist
...Sj^
inches inches
inches
11
4^
Sleeve
inches
inches
13J4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. For box follow same instructions as given At waist
E
line,
to J
is
inch; J to
'i
K
in First
is
and Second Lessons.
K
3 inches;
to
L
L
y^ inch;
is
4
to
is
4 inches; 4 to
5 is -H inch.
Take center of L to
Take center of hip,
line crosses
on
first
hip measure y4 inch to 10,
'i
inch
U
to
at
—
6,
Where
square up to 28 and down.
line crosses
on
first
hip measure 34
'ncli
inch to 11.
from F
At back neck,
From S
5
%
to 12,
On
— K, square down, where
15.
to
A
to
and 16
V
34 inch.
is
W
Draw back
yi inch.
is
B
to
134 inches for lap.
is
shoulder to 29
is
line
from
Draw
W —A —J— V
line
U
from
to
tfj
B
From
16.
J
to T,
T
as shown.
3 inches.
Shape two back gores as shown. At
front,
on
hip,
18 to 19
is
134 inches.
Draw
front line
from
Q — 19
to 17.
—
To make garment double
breasted, from front line measure 23^ inches to 26 tance back for button stand.
For
and collar, measure from deepest point of neck, 32 to 23, 1 from bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 33 to 21 is 2^4
lapel
back measure,
W—O.
—
To To
collar
from 25
— —21 — 2-1
trace colar, place separate paper
trace lapel, break on line will be reserved
26
—
on opposite
22.
Shape
collar
and
lapel as
Draw
inch.
to
is
more than 234 inches,
collar.
turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which
side.
This completes the diagram for reefer.
dis-
shown.
under the collar and trace out the shape of
24,
34
same
straight line
inches, 34 inch
Square on line Z'l ^26, 1 inch to 25, for standing band of collar, and from 24 or any desired width. 34 to 22 is 34 inch allowed for spring.
Shape back of
20, the
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR 26
Diagram
121
W OMEN.
241
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
242
EIGHT YEARS.
SEMI-FITTING COAT. Diagram
122'
MEASURES. Shoulder Height Front-.
8
inches
Shoulder Height Back
G'/z
32
inches
Neck Height and
12
inches
Across Back
13
inches
Shoulder
Bust
285^ inches
Waist
263^2
Hip Across Chest
-
Neck
Waist
....5}4
inches inches
11 -H
inches
11
inches
4J4 inches
13^
Sleeve
to
—6 — 4^2 —
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
E
to J
^
in First
and Second Lessons.
V
is '4 inch. Take is inch J to 6 is 5% inches 6 to 7 ib 44 inch I to T is 1 inch B to inch to 13, 14 inch center of 6—7, square down where line crosses on first hip. measure inch to 8 and }i inch to 9. On second hip, where line crosses, measure to 14. :
;
;
;
^
^
Shape back gore as shown.
At front hip
line,
from 18
to 19 is 1'^ inches.
Draw
front line
—O— 19
from 27
—
to 11.
—
double breasted, measure from front line 27 11, Zyi inches to 26 From 27 to 28 is 3^2 inch taken out. distance back for button stand.
To make garment To
draft lay
Draw
line
down
collar,
from 28 through 23
O— K.
Square over on
line
28
—
desired width.
Shape
measure from deepest point of neck, 16
collar as
shown.
24,
1
to 24.
27 to 22- is 2}^ inches,
]'4
to 23,
1
12,
same
inch.
more than back neck measure,
inch to 25, for stand band of collar, over to 20, 3 inches, or is J^ inch allowed for spring at Ijack.
any
20 to 21
^
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 122
243
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM3N.
244
SEMI-FITTING COAT, FRENCH SEAMS, EIGHT YEARS Diagram
12J
MEASURES. Bust
283^ inches
Shoulder Height Front-.
Waist
26J4 inches
Shoulder Height Back
—6 6>4 — 4>4
32
inches
Neck Height
5>^— 11%
...12
inches
Across Back
13
inches
Shoulder
Hip
-
Across Chest
Neck Sleeve
Waist
to
8
inches inches inches inches
11
4% 13 j4
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
At waist
line,
9 to 8
At
E is
1/2
is
inch;
M
and Second Lessons.
to 35
is
3>4 inches; 35 to 34
is
>2 inch; 34 to 9
is
4 inches;
>4 inch.
shoulder, from
At bust
M
to
in First
O to T is U is Iji
23/^
inches
;
T
to
S
is
2 inches.
I to inches. Take center of 34 hip measure ^4 inch to 12 and >4 inch to 37.
line,
—
35, square
down, where
—
line crosses
of 8 9, square up to 29 and down, where line crosses on hip measure 10 and yi inch to 11.
Take center
Raise back neck from
A
to
K
34 inch.
Draw back K
—A — M
to 38.
'/i
on
inch to
Shape back and gores
as
shown.
At
on hip, from 18
front,
Draw
line
to 19
is
D/o inches.
27—Q— 19— 13.
O
At bust line, from to L is 31 to 33 is yi inch taken out.
3'/:
inches.
Square L down.
At shoulder, 32 to 28 is 2% inches, 28 to 30 22 4. Reshape armscye from 29 to 4.
—
To make garment
is
-u inch taken out.
This Ji inch add on point
double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given
in
three
gore coat.
After pattern has been cut out lay pattern together to 4.
at points
28
—30— L.
Square shoulder over
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
Diagram
123
245
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
24b
EIGHT YEAR BOX COAT. Diagram 124
MEASURES.
— 6 inches Back 6>2 — inches Waist ...5^ — 11^ inches
Shoulder Height Front
Bust
ISyi inches
Waist
26J/2
inches
Hip
32
inches
Across Chest
12
inches
Across
Neck
13
inches
Sliuuldcr
Shoulder Height
Neck Height and
-^'/i
Back
inches
11 4->4
13^
.Sleeve
to
8
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given
in First
and Second Lessons.
Allow on bust 2 inches more for seams than the natural bust measure.
E
M
to
Draw
is
line
1/2
inch.
from
K— M
point 7 on waist
Draw For
straight line
front,
Draw
draw
To make garment 121,
From
from 29
from
O — 19
— 9— to
I
7 to 9
from 29 through 8
line
front line
to 10 full length. line.
11.
to
is
to 1
is
Square 1 >2 inches. 7 to 8 is 1 inch.
12 over to 10.
From
18 tu 19
is
down
2'',
which gives
This completes back. \'/2
inches.
13.
double breasted, collar and
pageXHO.
2')
inch.
lapel, follow
same instructions as given
in
diagram
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 124
247
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
248
PLAIN COAT SLEEVE. SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. Diagram
125
MEASURES. Half of Back
To Elbow
inches
5'/2
Full Length
15'j inches
22 >4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
A
to
M
A
to
L
I
is
E
A — B.
line is
of back measure, 5>4 inches.
ISyi inches to the elbow, and
is
the distance between
3/2
F
to
3/2
S
to
Square point S down
N
Point
is
to
N
to
O X
Q
to
P
T
to
R
is
1
R
to
U
is
Ys of bust,
K
is
to
13/^
is
144 inches.
is
y^ inch.
Draw
is 1
line
ZZjA inches,
full
length sleeve.
D on
is
1
inch
line
less.
A —^B.
to B.
S and
iVI.
inches.
is
inch.
3^ the distance
C
to
I
H, over
to
3^
inches.
between
Square down point K.
L
F
— — D— L
3^ the distance of
N
is
measure plus 2 inches, allowance for seams.
Vi of bust
is
AJ
B
to
and D.
3^ of bust measure.
is
Square over on points
M
M
A
1
H
inch to
and
B.
J.
inch.
from
H
to
E
53/2
Shape the top sleeve from Shape undersleeve from
H
H
H
to A'
—
C) to
inches for top sleeve, and
through
through
R
R
to
to
Q
P
through
to
X
to
U
G
to
\'.
is I
^yi inches for undersleeve.
through
C
to E.
This completes the sleeve.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
f
249
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
250
BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS. SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. Diagram 126
MEASURES. Bust
ZSyi inches
Shoulder Height Front
Waist
26>4 inches
Shoulder Height Back
Hip
52
inches
Neck Height and
.Across Chest
12
inches
.Across
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
— 6>i — 8
Waist.. ..51/2
Back
Sleeve
,
>/^
inches
4>4 inches
II V4
inches
11
inches
4^
_
13
6
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw .\ to
line
L
A — B.
Square down
S
is
'/>
D
is
^
A
the distance between and E S to to P is >< inch to is >^ inch
G
O
Syi inches; L to is 34 of bust, 7 inches; to B of bust measure less 2 inches. Square over points points E to K. This completes the bo.x of the sleeve.
is '/s of bust, which of bust. A to E is
;
O
;
D
;
N T
is
is
1
is
L
7 inches, J4 and B.
—O
H
inch; to F is 1 inch; and L to the distance between and B
K
!>
C ;
is 1
T
to
inch;
M
2y2 inches.
Shape sleeve from
B— O— C— N
through
H
to
F— P— K
and
M
to R.
This completes sleeve.
is
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
251
S
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
252
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD
KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT. DiAGKAM 127
MEASURES.
—6 Back — --.5^ Waist — 11^
Bust
283^ inches
Shoulder Height Front
8
Waist
26>2 inches
Shoulder Height
6J/2
Hip
32
inches
Meek Height and
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
11
inches inches niches
4^4 inches
13^
Sleeve
4>'2
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given coat, follow
in
same instruction
For collar diagram 124, page 24^. as given in diagram 129, page 25'/.
and double breasted
h'rom 29 to 25 is 1 inch. Square over 2o, ly^ inches to 24 and 36. Square up 25, 13 inches, length of sleeve, to 28. 28 to 30 and 33 is 1 inch. Draw line connecting 36 to 30 and 24 Connect 36 with 7 and 24 with 7 for the under-gore of body. to 33.
l-rom 25 to 17
Draw .\llow
Draw
S
is
line
^
4^
from 22
part, ;
draw
15 to 14
line
this line to 22.
from 20—17—24.
inches.
—23—4
I
to 23, Syi niches. to
32.
This completes the forepart.
from 36 through 17 to 4>4 inches.
16.
line is
—H
from 36
Draw
inch.
1
from 24 through
line
line
is
Square over on
17 to 21 for front sleeve.
to 20,
22
to
oiif
Draw
—
from 21
For back
2}i inches.
from 2^
line
From 20 DinW
is
to 31, 5 inches.
inch raise from
R
up
to O.
.Square over 16 to 14; 16 to 15
Shape as shown from
15
— 17
to
is
1
inch taken
— — —
36
14
31
S.
This completes the back part of sleeve.
Shape the underarm front part of coat from
1 1
—9
is
1
inch.
—8 7 8 K O S 10 12 — — — — —31 — — 15 — 17—36—
Shape the back part of the underarm of coat from 12 Trace out the back part of coat and sleeve from
7 to 9
to 24.
to 36.
to
is
1
inch. 14
to 12.
The
front part of coat remains on the paper as
shown
Trace the undersleeve and gore of body from 7 diagram.
in the
dotted
line.
— 36—30—33 — 24 to
7,
as
shown on the
side of
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
33 28 30
Diagram 127
253
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
254
EIGHT YEARS A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN
HOW TO MAKE
Diagram 128
INSTRUCTIONS. Lay pattern together
To
underarm
at
as (ioilcd line sliows.
new seams under the arm. measure from neck, 8 to 7, 83/ inches, and from 6 to 4, W'/, inches. Draw straight 3 inches. Reshape armscye.
place the
Sy.i
to 2, is
To make garment
double breasted measure out from front back for buttons.
To make
line
and back shoulders together on point 9
collar, lay front
line
inches, square over 7 from 2 to 4. 2 to 3
4 inches to
—
Collar
1.
is
16,
same distance
cut without stand
band.
Draw
straight line
At back from
from 16
15 to 11
to 9.
5 inches.
is
11 to 10
i.s
y2 inch for spring.
Shape
collar
——
from 16
1
10 for shawl collar.
For
on back 12
sailor collar square over
For shovel
collar
15 to
14
is
93/2
I?,
6 inches to
Shape from
inches.
1
13.
Shape
to 14.
as
shown.
This completes the
coal.
DRAFT SLEEVE. Diagram
i29
,
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw
line .\
—
sleeve. all
!>.
A
9 to 6
to 9 is
is
i/^
of bust measure, Syi inches. 9 to B is 14 inches, fifll lengtn of Jess for each inch at underarm of coat, 3 to 2. Square
2^4 inches,
%
given points.
C is 13 inches, 1 inch less Draw line from A to 3 and C to
8 to
than yi of bust measure. 6 to 7, 5 to 4 3. A to 1 and C to 10 is ijA inches. 1 1
Shape sleeve as shown. 4
—
7
is
the
underarm
sleeve, joint to Doint 3 at
underarm
coat.
is is
lj4 iuclie.;. the center of
A — C.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
255
s < PC
o <
00 CM
s <
Q
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
256
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD
RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS. Diagram 130
MEASURES.
—8 — 4^ Syi — ll}i
Bust
28y2 inches
Shoulder Height Back
6
inches
Waist
26y2 inches
Shoulder Height Back
6J/2
inches
Hip
32
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Xeck
13
inches
Shoulder
of Waist
inches inches
11
4j4 inches
Sleeve
13^^ inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 242. This coat is cut without seams. For double breasted and lay down collor, follow the same instructions as given in diagram 122, page 238.
Draw
from 12 to 32. Reshape shoulder from 12
straight line
At back, draw
13
is
— —
from 29
line
Reshape shoulder from 28
to
—
29
11
U
O.
thee center of 12
—
Square over 13 to
32.
11,
'4
inch.
32.
is
the center of
O— 29.
-Square
U
T
over to
-54
inch.
—T—O.
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOUT SEAMS. Diagram
131
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow same instructions as given in diagram 125, page 248. At undersleeve measure the distance from Q to X. Place Q on 12 and X on 29. Ease between Q X _^2 inch. .-\t back, measure the distance from 29 to O, which is 7 inches. Place the 7 inches on point I to 7. Square over 7 to 6, 2 inches. Draw line up from I to 6. 4 is the center of 6 I. Square 4 to 5, "/^ inch.
—
—
Shape from .\t
I
—
5 to 6.
measure the distance from 12 to 32, 8 '4 inches. measure up to 9, 834 inches. Square over point 9
to 8, 2 inches.
— P.
Square over
Place the 834
front,
Draw
straight line
from P
Shape sleeve from P Square point
At bottom,
H
N
up
W
to pletes sleeve.
to 8.
—2—
8.
2^
is
the center of 8
This sleeve
to 10, 3 inches. is
3
inches.
N
is
to 11
Draw
line
3
on
inches
—
2, j4
point
P,
inch.
cut through at shoulder. is
'4 inch.
from
N
to
1
is
)4 inch.
W— — 10—8—6— 10—1 11
to
W.
This com-
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 130
Diagram
257
13I
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
258
ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. Diagram
I32
MEASURES.
INSTRUCTIONS. Lay
front and back shoulders together as dotted line shows.
17 to 9
is
.J4
Square
Draw
inch. 11
16 to 10
over to 6
—
is
1
inch.
7, 5 inches.
Draw
—
from 9 10 and 12 to 13
line
12 to 15
to 12. is
— —
— —
from 6 15 7 to 13. Shape bottom from 13 1-1 15. and 2 to 7 is 3 inches, which is lost at the underarm of waist. we gain by placing an under gore in the body and sleeve. line
From
5j/ inches.
The
9 to 11 is 6*4 inches. 12 to 14 is 1 inch.
distance from 6 to 3
Tliis distance
which
is lobl
Draw
line
Take
the center of 22 23, which is 19. Square this point up to 18, 6 inches, same distance from 7 to 8 and 6 to 5. Square down 19 to 20, ISyi inches, the same distance from 7 to 13 and 6 to 15, length of sleeve. 20 to 24 and 21 is 1 inch,
from 7
to 8.
—
6 to
5,
6 inches.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
132
259
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.^N
260
HOOD
NO.
1,
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.
DiAGRA
1
133
MEASURES. Bust
28 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
E and B. D and E to F and F
Draw
E
to
line
to
B
is
always
^
of bust measure, 7 inches.
Square points just given,
which constitute box.
A
Place jacket back and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; C to is front of jacket or cape. Now draft curve B through G to A, as shown; J4 inch all
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram
133
261
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
262
HOOD
NO.
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD.
2.
Diagram 134
MEASURES. Bust
Top
of this hood
is
same
28 inches
as No.
From F
to P is 4 inches, and respective sizes I to
H
;
Now
draft curve from
H
1,
with
from B is
1
through
HOOD
to
inch.
G
e.'vce[)rion I
is
Now
of
F
to
B
being
%
of bust, Syi inches.
Sy^ inches increase or decrease these distances for connect these points with straight Hne, as shown. ;
to A.
NO.
3,
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.
Diagram i35
MEASURES. Dust
28 inches
INSTRUCTIONS. Follow instructions as No.
B
to
I
is Syl inches, and as shown.
I
2,
to
with exception of following:
H
is
2 inches; J to
K
is -x^
incli
;
draft line
B
to
H
to line
K —G — A,
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 134 No. 2
Diagram
I35 No. 3
263
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
CHILDRENS COLLARS AND CUFFS
265
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
-^^
ONE PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE. Diagram 136
INSTRUCTIONS. Place front and back shoulder together,
H
At back from
Draw new
line
For sweep
at
to
B
is
1
G
F.
inch.
from
A
to B.
bottom
C
to B, pivet
on point E.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 136
267
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
268
CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART. Diagram 137
INSTRUCTIONS. Draw an
.At
.\ to K and .\ to C. Take front and back of eoat pattern, and back on line A to K allowni},' inch from j to (1.
angle from
line
A
to
(.'
back shoulder from
I
to
H
to C,
and make
(i to
.spring.
at
on
allow '4 inch for neck.
Take length of shoulder from V
For sweep
front
lay
1
bottom from B
to
C
pivot on point A.
H
the
same
length.
K
to
I!
is
I
inch for
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
Diagram 137
269
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
270
HOW TO MAKE THE
FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT.
INSIDE
Diagram 138
INSTRUCTIONS. At the present time the fronts ait worked without canvas or hairclotii, to avoid the stiffness of the coat. Instead use camhric, as shown on the illustration. Cut the cambric the same shape as the material.
Ai the front, from 17
— 12
to 13
must he cut on the straight of material, the same from
5 to lo.
Stvv the outside and cambric separatel) then pi ess the both seams open, and baste the seam of with one or more bastings as shown. tiie coat with the seam of the cambric together, Also baste the cambric around the shoulder, armhole, under the arm and down the front. .
the lapel, make short .stitches through the inside of the cambric, catching the cloth withThen tape the break line, 11 12, being out showing the stitches through on the right side. very careful not to stretch the cloth, also from where the collar joins around the shape lie careful not to of iapel ease in the cloth from 17 to 12 and from 12 down to bottom, stretch or ease in the cloth.
To work
F'.etween 9
—
—
10 cut away 3 inches of the tape, which is IJ/j inches above length. cut away the 3 inches so as to give the garment more
We
line in
front.
HOW TO At the underarm of coat from 3 line, 1 2. Press on this
—
PRESS IN THE SIDE FRONT OF COAT.
—4
—
fold the material over to 5 6, which will give us the crease much as possible, so that the underarm, 3 4. becomes
line as
perfectly straight with the front seam, 5
—
bias, also short stitch
perfectly
flat
—
tween 20
21.
—
6.
HOW TO MAKE Cut the collar
and below the waist freedom at the waist
COLLAR.
—
18, so collar will lay the lapel and stretch well l)etween 19 When sewing the collar in the neck, ease J4 iT-"h be-
when turned down.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
l.>
Diagram 138
271
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
272
HOW TO MAKE THE
FRONTS OF A TIGHT-FITTING JACKET. Diagram 139
INSTRUCTIONS. A
garnu-iu
made according to these As shown in cut, the
respect.
dry and press .\t
it
thoroughly,
instructions will surel\- prove to he satisfactory in every front has French seams. First sponge the canvas, tncn .\fter that cut out according to pattern.
point 1 of canvas take out a \ of -ys, inch, also at the points 13 and 8. edges, cover them with a piece of tape and press thoroughly so as to
Now
cut a piece of haircloth
Take out
bust, as
shown
less
the
lay Hat.
in cut.
inch is cor9 and 10 J/j inch each to obtain the required fullness. This 36 inch bust measure; if the bust is larger we have to take out more; if smaller.
at points
rect for
Now
around the armhi.le and
Having joined
make seams
'
_.
than J/ inch.
baste haircloth on the can\ass, sew Ui\ye around haircloth from protruding.
the
edges,
to
tiatteii
and
prevent
to
the
No. 14 represents an extra piece of canvas, which is sewed as far down as point of dart to obtain more stiffness over the bust. At the waist line cut canvas as shown in the diagram.
Make
On
a small dart
from
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
-1
5,
sewing tape on top of
the outside, at the place where zigzag line sary fullness at the waist as shown by (
it
as
shown
is drawn, hold in, while pressing, to get the necesshadows at 6 and 7 in the diagram.
Now we
are ready to place the canvas with the haircloth on the both together with small bastings.
In
making the
I
left side
sewing on.
Between 2 and 3
When
of the goods and to sew
on the canvas, catching the cloth without showing on the and giving the lapel the necessary rolling shape. Now sew tape from point and from 13 to 12 to 2 and from 3 to 15, holding in top goods and canvas while
lapel use short stitches
right side, 11 to 12,
before.
everything
at the waist is
I'lie
the goods have to be stretched.
joined press with a verv hot iron.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
DlAGRj\Ml39
273
Alterations
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
276
DIAGRAM Hoiv
Reduce the back part from
to Alter:
move B
at the
inch from
D
A
to B, say, >4 inch, as
back part up to A, the forepart.
to C.
FIGURE Fault:
Cause
:
A.
The back
part wrinkles at the side.
The back
part
is
A.
too short for the forepart.
Allow
at the
shown
in
dotted
line.
Then
bottom of the back part Yi
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
277
\
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
278
DIAGRAM How
to
From
A down
E
to
F
Alter:
is
^
Reduce
the forepart froiii
to dotted line
inch taken
off.
and over
to
t>
Shape from F
C is
to
B.
to D, say, >^ inch.
^
inch.
G
as dotted line shows.
Square over shoulder from B through b. which locates E, and over point.
FIGURE Fault
Cause
Coat springs open
:
:
at
Front shoulder point
bottom, not enough is
too long.
B.
lap.
to
the original shoulder
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
279
03
a
<
o <
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
280
DIAGRAM How
line.
D
to
Reduce
to Alter:
F
is
the back part
Reshape from
the
same
lensjtli
B—D—E as
C
from
A
',o
B and C
Cause
to D, say.
to F.
to E.
FIGURE Fault
C.
C.
Coat wrinkles at the back of neck.
:
:
There
is
too
much back
lensrth at the
back of neck.
'_>
inch, as
shown
in
dotted
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
281
U g
U <
O <
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
282
dl\(;ram 11
0:1.'
to .liter:
dotted
Reduce the
A
lo
B and C
E
lo
F
Lengthen the top sleeve
from
K
to
G
to
H
at Isottom
L and
I
and
inch
>4
the
from
K
The
Cause
:
The
to D, say, yi inch or
to
Reduce
sleeve falls in folds sleeve head
Alter: the
is
from the
:
Cause:
L and
to
D.
I
to G,
too short.
Reduce the sleeve head from
undersleeve from 3 to
has too
much
at the
down.
4,
the
1
same
1.
lo 2, say,
3^2
inch, as dotted line shows.
yi inch, as dotted line shows.
Dâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;
1.
This sleeve wrinkles at the top of the undersleeve upward. It
and ^4 inch
2
sleeve head
FIGURE fault
in
same amount, and reshape.
DIAGRAM Dâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; How
more, as showr
to G.
FIGURE fault:
2
line.
Reduce the undersleeve from
sleeve
from
sleeve
d.
sleeve head.
under-
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
283
3
!X0
«
—
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
284
DIAGRAM Hoiv
to
Alter:
from C
Take the
fullness out at the side front only, in this case
to B, slightly
shaped up to A.
FIGURE Fault
:
When
a coat
is
E.
too full in
tiie
E.
front at hottoni.
1
inch
more or
less
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
285
UJ Oi
O
<
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
286
DIAGRAM How
to Alter:
from
A
Rip the seam to
P>.
at top of the side
Shape down
The ditsance we take off from
A
to
to bust
front gore
Front armliolc loo
full.
and take
ofT
-Kt
inch, in this case
iii.e.
B add on
the shoulder
FIGURE Fault:
F.
F.
from C
to
D, as dotted
line show:,.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
287
3
B a u
be
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
288
DIAGRAM Hoiv
to Alter:
From
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; B
Rip the seam
shape
at
down below
on the shoulder from
C
top of the side back gore and take off 34 mc\\ in this case.
the Ijust line to
I.
l^.ack
armliole too
The
distance
to D, as dotted line shows.
FIGURE Fault:
G.
full.
G.
we take
oft'
from
A
to
K add
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
^89
O 3 IE
O
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR
290
DIAGRAM Ho-w
to
Alter:
more or
Rip coat open less,
slightly
at the
FIGURE I'aitlt
:
Cause:
When The
H.
bottom and allow
shaped to A, as dotted
at the side
line
shows.
H.
a coat wrinkles across the back at waist line.
coat
is
too tight over the hip at back.
WOM.i:N,
back gore from
V
to
C
1
inch
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
291
3
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
292
DIAGRAM Hoiv
to
Alter:
All(3\v at the
Reshape shoulder from C
back from
to
1!
to F, as dotted
A
Cause:
When The
a coat
coat
is
falls in
folds
to
hne shows.
down
cut out too deeji at
D
and
FIGURE I'tiiill:
J.
J.
center hack.
tiie
hack
fjf
nccl
C
-M incli.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
293
b/)
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
294
INDEX Page
IRODUCTIOK PKEFACE. TO SECOND EDITION Rol'oRTlONAL MEASUREMENTS I'KOPOKTIONAL WIDTHS I'Kl li'OKTK )NAL LENGTHS DlKEtTIOXS FOR TAKING MEASURES JACKET LESSON JACKET LESSON 2 TIGHT BACK, L(JOSE FRONT TIGHT HACK. LOOSE FRONT, COMPLETE TIGHT FITTING BACK, WITH TWO DARTS TIGHT FITTING BACK, LOOSE FRONTS, FRENCH SEAMS TIGHT FITTED lACKET FRENCH SEAMS REGULAR COAT SLEEVE HOW TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP HOW TO MAKE RECiULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER BISHOP SLEEVE SEMI-FITTINC; WITH UNDER GORE SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SEAMS AT SIDES AND SAILOR COLLAR L( JOSE SEM I-FITT NG COAT SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR SEVEN-EIGHTHS FITTING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE HI PLESS COAT LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT M< )NTE CARLO C( )AT TWO PIECE COAT LOOSE BOX COAT ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT LOOSE C( AT, RA( LAN SLEEVE HOW TO PLACE DARTS IN FRONT OF RAGLAN HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A P.LOCK PATTERN, LOOSE COAT HOW TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM BLOCK PATTERN FOR DEEP ARMHOLE COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT SHAWL COLLAR WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN SET ON COLLAR AND LAPEL SIIiiWN ON BLoiK PATTERN TWO-PIECE KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN LOOSE FRONT JACKET. THREE-EIGHTHS SEAMS ALLOWED NINETEEN GORE CORSET JACKET E T N J A C KT RUSSIAN BLOUSE TIGHT FITTING lACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT LOOSE FRONT lACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST TIGHT FITTING VEST EMPIRE JACKET NORFOLIv JACKET NORFOLK TACKET TO DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER SFMI-FITTING COAT WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR CHILD'S TURNED DOWN COLLAR STANDING COLLAR TURNED DOWN COLLAR HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN OPERA CLOAK ULSTER WITH I50LMAN SLEEVE FICHU NO. 3 FICHU NO. 4 IN
5
6
y 10
1
11 12 14 16 18
I
20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
I
)
42 44 46 48 30 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 12 74 76 78 80 82
;
"
(J
DOLMAN DOLMAN DOLMAN DOLMAN
NO. NO. NO. NO.
5
:... .-.
'.
8
(Continued)
1
1
2 3
98 100 102 104 106 106 10S
7
APE WITH ONE DART CAPE WITH TWO DARTS Co,.\CHMAN'S FUR C.M'E HOW TO GRADE MflNTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT ULSTER NO. ULSTER NO. 2 PRINCESS DRESS NO. NO. NO.
86 88 90 92 94 96
6
I
HOOD HOOD HOOD
84
KNEE LEGGINS SHOE LEGGINS
.*.
lin 112 114 116 118 120 122 1 24 126 128 130 132 1.^4
136 138 140 142 144 144 146 1 46
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
295
ENDEX Pt«.
WAISTS. FIRST LESSON WAISTS. SECOND LESSON IIC.HT iriTED LINING, FRENCH SEAMS
TIGHT UNINi; SHIRT WAIST WITH ONE GORE TIGHT FITTING TWO i'lECE LINING LOUSE SHIRT WAIST li
UIAGKA.M
8J
\i1 \'J,
\i* Jj* '5* 160
TURN OVER COLLAR IIISHOP SLEEVE TIGHT LINING SLEEVE TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS, FOUR PIECES BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE HOW TO .MAKE KIMONO SLEEVE FROM BLOCK PATTERN WAIST WITH KIMONO SLEEVE MANNISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE HOW TO MAKE A SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL HOW TO MAKE A NOTCH COLLAR HOW TO MAKE A SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN HIPLESS OR HOBBLE SKIRT IN ONE PIECE EMPIRE SKIRT lliiBliLE SKIRT WITH ONE PLEAT ON SIDE
}6f }6j J6j 166 168
PA.XTALOON SKIRT RC U L A R SKIRT THREE GORE SKIRT FIVE GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT F1\E GORE SKIRT SEVEN GORE SKIRT NINE GORE SKI RT ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE ELEVEN (;oRE FLARE SKIRT THIRTEEN Go RE PLEATED SKIRT FIFTEEN t;oRE SKIRT SAFETY RIDING SKIRT •;• HACK PART OF SKIRT ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF SAFETY RIDING HABITS RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE, FRONT PART RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE. BACK PART DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT RIDING BREECHES PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, CHILDREN'S PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, MISSES & JUNIORS' FI RST LESSf N SECOND LESSON EIGHT YEAR OLD REEFER SEMI-FITTlisG COAT, EIGHT YEARS SEMI-FITTING FRENCH SEAMS. EIGHT YEARS EIGHT YEAR OLD BOX COAT PLAIN COAT SLEEVE BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS EIGHT YEAR r)LD KIMONO SLEEVE .\ND COAT HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN
J'j 196 198
lIoliBLE SKIRT
L
I
)
DRAFT A SLEEVE EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOI'T SEAMS ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN EIGHT YEARS HOOD NO. HOOD NO. 2. EIGHT YEARS HOOD NO. f. EIGHT YEARS ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING CHILDREN'S COLLARS AND CUFFS ONE PIECE CIRCULAR C.\PE CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TKIHT FITTING JACKET H( )W T( MAKE ALTERATIONS FIC.URE A. DIAGRAM A FIGURE B. DIAGRAM B. FIGURE C, DIAGRAM C FIGURE DI. DIAGRAM Dl FIGURE D-2. DIAGR.NM D-2. FIGITRE.E. DIAGRAM E FIGURE F, DIAGRAM F FIGURE G, DIAGRAM G FIGURE H, DIAGRAM H FIGURE J, DIAGRAM 1,
)
'.
I
JiS ]/2 \l* 1J6 178 ISO 182 184 188
J'" ]92
200 202 20j 206 208 210 212 214 216 220 222 224 226 228 230 232 234 235 236 238 240 242 244 246 248 250 2.52 2.i4
254
if* 256 258 260 262 262 264 266 268 270 272 274 276 278 280 282 282 284 286 288 2^0 292
;-V'*V
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
111
lillll
lllllllllltlllll
014 061 932 2
\\\,
A
l^vV
\
;v A' \
V
\\|
\
\\
VN^^^
\^
\
\
\H \
\\^
•il'
\ k\
\^^\
^*^
v«*
c*;:
>.
\'
II
II nil ill!