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Book._3L±_ :ghtN?.J5^L COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
THE
American A
ga rment
Cutter
Complete, Practical, Up-to-date Treatise
on the Cutting
Albert's
of
(garments
According to the Latest and Most Approved Method
Published by
American Fashion Company New
York, London, Paris, Berlin
THE
build of a
ingenuity
man, and
AMERICA
to be
what has been sought
is
the
by
this publication,
confidence
of
their
be
cutting has
to
be spoiled.
The
R
MEX
clientage.
done without
work.
in this
many who have
of
of
aid
GA
CI T T E R
T
'
reproduced as nearly perfect as
ceeded that the
\
not
one
has
Particularly "
try-on
"
possible to
failed
is
this
and
at
human
so far suc-
by direct instruction or
either
studied,
is
The author has
to
enjoy
system
of
the
fullest
value
where
no time can a garment
perfect points being the fundamental object of this method.
PREFACE placing
In that
work before the Cutting Fraternity, we
this
have p.laced before them something that
we
Unlike any other work of understand.
It
its
kind,
construction
its
has been our aim to eliminate
tomical nature, for
we do not pretend
do claim that our work
is
absolutely
are
discussion
of
an ana-
anatomy, nor do we
to teach
we
convince the student of something
simple and easy to
is
all
and practical.
useful
is
confident
feel
try to
We
not convinced of ourselves.
practical,
and correct,
its
measures are
simple,
and applied on the pattern exactly as taken and they cover any
and
points
need
"O.
all
for
the
that
have heretofore confused the
cutter
to
mark
on
the
cutter.
" R.
book
B."
E." for over erect or any other sign by which to
customer,
for
his
measurements
will
show
all
certain that
any cutter following the instructions
Cutter
be satisfied with the results obtained.
will
of
There for
will
round back or
know the shape
such the
no
be
points.
of his
We
feel
American Garment
THE AUTHOR.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
CU
TTER
THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY The
fact that in
order to perfectly
human body,
the
fit
it
requires perfect measure-
ments, cannot be too often urged upon the cutter, and not only that, but tact
on the part
well
known among
of the cutter to get his
cutters
is,
customer to forget that he
that ninety-nine out of
sciously perhaps, while being measured,
ft is
if
is
completed he stoops forward,
to see a
requires
man
will pose,
his chest
this
is
my
sunken
natural position," but
in, his
back rounded, it ;
be seen that the cutter
who
can
make
his
fact,
uncon-
standing erect, with
be necessary for the cutter to either make a big alteration or a new garment so
the best chance of success.
much
A
you were to ask him to stand naturally,
he would be indignant and answer, "Why, of course the garment
one hundred men
common
shoulders thrown back and chest expanded, and
it
being measured.
is
customer forget that he
is
it
if
after
will
then
will readily
being measured, has
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
HOW TO MEASURE Before measuring sary, pin
up both
it is
well to see that the sides of the
sides of the Vest, but see that the center
Vest are not too loose;
seam
of the
back
is
if
neces-
in the right
place.
Use and
Place square under the
the ordinary division square.
parallel with the
body.
the arm;
make
a chalk
position,
make
a
(See Fig.
mark on top
mark on the
of
i.) it
The
arm with
the long end
down
short end to be close, but not tight, under
in front, and, still
side of the hack, and
remove.
holding the square
in the
same
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Figure
i
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
10
CUTTER
HOW TO MEASURE— Continued Now Fig. 2),
place the short end of the square under the
still
keeping the inner edge of
outer edge of 3).
Now
it
across the
first
line,
it
so that
it
place the square under the other
of the back.
arm with the long end upward
close, but not tight, at the front scye;
leaves a cross
mark
arm and mark
the
at
mark
(see
at the
the front scye (see Fig.
same way
at front
and
side
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
Figure
2
CUTTER
ll
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
12
CUTTER
HOW TO MEASURE— Continued The cle
cross
mark shown on
line cross.
the front in Figure 3
shows where the
line of scye
depth and
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Figure
3
13
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
II
HOW TO MEASURE— Continued Place the long end of the square across both center seam (see Fig. 4); this gives the scye depth. the collar button at the back,
marks on the back and mark across the
Now
find the socket bone, or
measure to the scye depth, divide
in half
from above
and mark across the
center seam. get the waist length, put the tape line around the waist just above the hip bone, and
To
mark across center seam
you must be
as the measure,
We
will
First
Now
now proceed
long as you go
to the scye depth;
strap measure; then from line
Then from of
It is
easily
same distance
understood
for the draft,
on to the waist
on front
for
line half
-|
line;
on to the
and measure to cross
full
line
front
way between socket hone and scye depth,
to
over-shoulder measure.
front cross line (Fig. 3)
under arm and over the blade hone to the center
breast, not tight; waist,
and
hip.
taking the breast measure he sure that your tape string
is
over the most prominent
part of the blade bone.
THE VEST If
length.
on
hack for blade measure.
Then In
down
the
to measure.
place the tape line to the back collar button Figure
same cross
seam
he. as
for the hip.
right.
from the socket hone
Fig. 3) for
the
measure 6 inches down
no matter where the hip may
that
(
of back,
measured
for a suit all that
is
needed
is
the opening and
lull
length measure.
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Figure
4
15
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
1G
HOW TO MEASURE— Continued TROUSERS Measure the outside seam from the hip bone to the top
For the inseam have the trousers
well
of heel, then the waist, hip, seat, thigh,
of heel.
drawn up and measure from the crotch
to the top
knee and bottom.
THE SQUARE The square used ters,
for these
diagrams
but for the benefit of those
who do
is
a plain division square, understood by most cut-
not understand
it,
we herewith give an explanation
of the divisions of same.
The long end i>
i>
»•
tV and
at the short
36,
:
is
divided into
20 for 40, or 24
will find
^,
or
for 48. if
\,
f
,
{,
TV> it the short end
Should you try to find £ of any
end of the square marked
square marked
you
of the square .\,-.
£,
and there you
will find the
Should you want ^ of any
you want
J,
'.
size,
size,
look
is
divided into
say 36, 40 or 48, look
number you want, at
18 for
the same short end
or TV look at the long end for the
mark
},
of
| or TV and
it.
In drawing for square lines be sure that you hold your square on the one line firmly, while drawing the right angle, for one line off will spoil the whole draft.
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
>' Figure
5
17
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
18
LESSON
I.
SINGLE BREASTED SACK COAT We
now begin with our
will
This
The measures
inches
Blade,
13
inches
inches
Breast.
38
inches
inches
Waist.
34
inches
inches
Seat.
39
inches
()\
Natural waist.
17
Full length.
30
Strap,
uj
:
Square
seams
—N
lose
—
inches;
<;!
inch
|
inches
A — F.
and
scye depth,
we
that
A
lines is
I!
14J,
>ver shi adder,
(
in
ground work.
lesson, the
are as follows
Scye depth,
\
first
tn he a single breasted sack coat.
is
at
C
to
11
is 7
inch; this
inch allowance
f
the center seam of the hack, and
[
inch each
is
at
for the three
the hack and
front shoulders.
A full
to
I
waist length, 17 inches.
is
>
length plus
Square out from At I
D go
in
I
I!.
inch
II
t<>
the line just I
E and
C, D,
I
inch
drawn
at
3^ inches; square
is
E
is
6 inches always, same as measure.
F
is
F.
<
i
is
half
way between A and B
sack coats except on box or straight hack coats
in all
)raw a line from the
From
to
I)
inch.
J
line, I',
point up to
H
to
is
G and dow
i of full breast
down from
—
n to F.
1<)
inches.
1.
way between the inner line at Hand II. Square down from K. 3JI inches always. Now apply the blade measure from the line inside of I! to wherever it comes; in this case the blade measure is 13 inches and comes even with the lower line, but let it be understood that the blade line is independent of the line squared down from 1\ and may be ] inch. J is half J
to
K
is
.
',
inch, or
1
inch in or out of that line, according to measure.
Square up from where the blade placing the square
square being
K I
to
I. is
1
j
.'.
1
division
>i
in this
the square.
Square up from
L.
for seams, as in
the
he distance from
he scye depth
and make no allowance
arm scye you have already made allowance, the width which makes just five seams.
in front of
inches,
line conies,
(Sec diagrams X and 9.)
A
to
of the
]).
case being ol inches, -make the distance from
l\
to
I.
hj
on Oth
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
19
#A
(3)
(5E)g
I
$
H
@
#
^
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^D
<ii)E
-® F
Diagram
i
AMUR CAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
20
I
LESSON
Q
P to
Sis
way between the
half
is
I'
is
i
From P
der.
A
to
is |
I'
di
inch
Square up from I'
V
to
Draw \1
is
a line
half
is
|
I
X
'lace the
R
is \
From R
breast always.
to
(raw
a
back to 4
is
Shape Xote
wanting
if
\
making
it,
inch,
more or
more or is
less,
less,
according to the
according to style and
style of shoul-
How-
taste.
wanted, cut the hack wide, say from P to back
breast.
to
O
(
is I
anil
V
Shape the back.
to T.
same
to
K ami up
to X,
which
is
measure
strap
— [2^
Square forward from N.
N
to
14
is
].
breast.
14 to [3
breast.
is \
at
U
L.
13 inches.
r.
<
)
M
and
and square forward.
I.
waist, 17
on
half division of the square.
From
2 to 3
is
inches.
1
J
From
3^ niches.
front
through
1
and
that in placing point
long,
his
back
to V, apply
from X to
slope oi the shoulder.
and
,'
inch,
from midway between
square
to 2
\
:
I*.
line fn >m 13 to
From Z
der,
to
i
n.
»\\
more than
way between K and
a line
inches.
\\
I
3
From
inch.
inch to
|
Draw
about
is
Measure back from A inches; add
about
is
I
a full or straight
Square
inch.
i
S to
S.
to back line
where
ever, in cases
is
B and K.
\\ inches.
Square out from
line
line inside of
Square up from Q.
inches.
j
I.— Continued
a
For
if
3
R
down. [
breast
from the lower
the scye depth
sloping wide shoulder.
shoulders padded heavily, you
is
short,
it
However,
may make
according to the amount of padding wanted.
will in
line
always, you get the proper
give
a
square and narrow shoul-
case of a sloping shouldered
the distance from
R to S
man
if or 2 inches,
THE
AMERICAN
G
Diagram
ARM EXT CUTTER
2
21
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
22
LESSON Measure back from 9 Measure back 7 from 6 to
if
-Continued
E. apply to 8 and back to 10, seat measure, plus £ inch.
'.o
to D, apply to 4
and back to
6,
waist measure, plus
1
inch;
draw
a line
10.
Between seams
I.
front
you were
Sweep from
and back
to cut an
at
Q
take out £ inch, the
underarm
Shape the
fish.
amount
of cloth
it
would take
for
For
in-
side of the front.
12 to 15, pivoting at N.
Straighten out the bottom of forepart.
The height stance,
of the
is
2/3 of the sleeve length, measured on the inseam.
the sleeve length be 18 inches, look for 18 at the long end of the square,
if
"2 Thirds"; 12 inches from the armscye, and the front
For
;
make a
line
Z
— K the center
of
it,
mark
one or a four button sack, mark the
For a three button sack mark the above the side pockets.
last
the pocket parallel with the
and mark 1/6 of the breast each side of last
marked
bottom
of
it.
button \\ inches above the pocket.
button opposite to the ticket pocket or
t,\
inches
Diagram
3
24
/
//
E
.
t
M
E R
I
CA N
LESSON Cut the back out, and place
X
In K,
at
X; sweep from point X
swing the hack
until
pi
unt
V on
GA K
I.
MEX
T
CUTTER
-Continued
point X,
measure over shoulder from
you get the proper measurement with
to Y, pivoting at
M.
J
G through
inch allowance,
Reshape shoulder and
finish.
mark
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
How
to
Diagram 4 Get the Over-Shoulder Measure.
25
THE
2fi
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE A
question often asked by the student
is,
"How
are
we
to
know
a stooping
from an
erect figure?"
The answer ure; that
is,
is,
"The measurements
the distance from
front are of the
A
to
B
is
same height and normal.
will
the
show;" on diagram
same
as
L
to N,
5 is a draft of a
normal
fig-
which shows that the back and
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
^
CUTTER
27
-#A
ifr
(a
@
<^
«»JS
®L -!t)c
^D
-<!»e
-&F
Diagram
5
THE
28
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE Continued
(
)n
diagram 6
\vc
have an erect figure where the distance from
from A to B, which shows that the person
and leans backwards.
is flat in
the back and
L
full
to
N
is
greater than
on the front shoulder,
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Diagram 6
29
30
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE Continued
than
On diagram 7 we have the stooping figure where the distance from A to B is greater L to N, showing that the person is round shouldered and stoops forward; but the blade
also plays an important part in the
make-up
width of a front across the breast from
K
to
of a person; for instance, I
is
]
of breast measure.
on
a
normal figure the
(See diagram 8.)
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE R
I
M \(,k.\M 7
31
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
32
These measures are the same measure
is
h inch smaller, that
B to P, while the front, from full
breast and Hat back.
is
K
as
12!,
to
on previous
draft,
Diagram
7,
except that the blade
instead of 13 inches, causing the hack to decrease from
I, is
increased to 10 instead of
f)\
inches, thus
showing
a
T
II
E
A
M
E
RICAN
GA R
M
E X T
N
CU
T TER
33
®A
(j)G
J
-&
P
Q,
<»
B
5)0
OD
6t)B
^!)F
Diagram
8
3-1
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
FULL BACKâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; FLAT BREAST These measures are the same
as
on Diagram
I
5,
except that the blade measure
to
P
to increase, while the breast
has decreased to 9 inches, showing that the hack
is
round while the breast
creased to 134 inches, causing the hack from
I!
from
is flat.
is
K
in-
to
T II E
M E RICA
A
Nj
(
/
ARM EN T
CU
@=
TTE R
35
3>
(jj)G
I
$
H
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IL
K
速-
&$
J
P
Q,
速 速 速
-
$>*
Diagram 9
AMERICAN
THE
36
ARM EN T CUT T E R
G
THREE BUTTON SACK The measurements by which Depth
this draft is
produced are as follows:
Over shoulder,
g inches
of scye,
13! inches inches
Waist length.
17 inches
Blade,
i-'i
Seat,
23 inches
Breast.
36
inches
Full length,
30 inches
Waist,
32
inches
12 inches
Seal.
37
inches
Strap,
Square
lines
A—U
A — F.
and
A to B is 9 inches; B to C is f inch; 30 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. At
A
to
D
go
D
is
in
\
inch.
square down.
From
line just
Square down from
made 1.
J
at is
B
to
half
H
is
half of full
breast
— 18
way between B and H.
from K.
to
E
Draw
a
17 inches;
A
is
K
A
to
F
G
to
D
and
from
line
H
inches.
J to
23 inches;
is 3.}
to
3^ inches.
is
I
is
Square down
inches.
—
Apply blade measure from B to K 12^ inches. Square up from K. K to L is \ the A to B. Square up from L. P is half way between B and K, P to O is i{ Square up from O. inches. Q to R is breast. K to S 1- \ inches, S to T is \ inch, A to U is inch more than Draw a line from U to T. Shape the back I" to V is | inch. breast. Square up from I'. Measure back A to V, apply to K and up to N, strap measure plus inch 12} inches. distance from
'\
i,
1
1
—
-.{
Draw
a line
inch less
X
X
Square forward from X.
to G.
to
13
is
l is from 13 to 1. X to T, breast. M is Sweep from X to Y. pivoting Square forward from O by K. than V to T. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye,
one-sixth breast.
and L.
from
Draw
a line
more than way between K
ti inches half at
M.
X
to
Y
is
]
inches, 3 to 2 is 3] inches. Z to 5 is \ waist. 5 to 3 is Measure back 7 to D and 2 to 0, waist measure, plus inch 17 inches. Measure 9 to E and S to 10, scat measure plus } inch 19 inches. Shape the side of the front, taking out I inch between front and back at O. Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. Finish front as represented. Cut out the back. inch let o\ er shoulder measure from G through X to K plus Place point V on point X. 1
]
1
—
—
<
}
— 13! inches.
THE COLLAR Draw a line from down from [8. 18 to
lapel crease t<) is
through
X
t} inches. 18 to 17
to 18. is
N
to [8
i| inches.
is
the
Shape
same
as
A
to
V
Square
collar as represented.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Three Button Sack
37
38
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Blade,
THE AMERICAN
G
Straight Front Sack
ARM E X T CUTTER
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Straight Back
:vj
THE AM
40
R
/•
N
CA
I
GA R
.1
E
1
CUTT E R
NT
FOUR BUTTON MILITARY SACK With
The measurements Square
A
to B
lines i-
'
D
half
go
in
is
From line inside of B to way between B and 11.
inch;
to
1*".
II
is
1
.',
LJ
to
Square out from
inches.
II.
From A
from
U
to
Measure distance A
to
Square down to
V
is
draft.
I
to
(
hall
i
\~ inches;
is
>
A
to
E
way between A and
a line
to F
is
B.
up to G. 19 inches.
to
11
1
inches.
3.'
is
is
J
Square clown from and K. 3! inches. to K, 13 inches. Square up from K. I
Square up from L. P is Square up from Q. Q to l\ is breast, K is \ inch. From I' to back line 7 is f inch.
to B, [9011 6th division. 1
inches.
j
S
S.
U
A
23 inches;
is
is
.
is
to
half of full breast,
K
J to
K to I. is \ the distance from A way between B and K P to Q is
S
A
is E and down and draw
B, C, D,
inch, square
\
;,'
Apply the blade measure from B half
on previous
as
show exaggeration
lines
— U.
30 inches. Square out from
At
same
are the
A — F and A inches; to C 1!
i.',
The dotted
Exaggerated Shoulders.
or without
is
to
inch
\
|
T
more than
\
Square up from
breast.
From
I".
I inch.
Draw
a line
I
shape the back.
;
K and
Y; apply to
to X, --trap
lip
measure [2§ plus
j
inch
\
i\
inches. is \ breast. X to Square forward from X. 14 to 13 is half way between I\ and L. I. inch less than V to T. N to O is Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. X to Y is by M. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. breast. Square forward from Z to 2 is half waist, 2 to 3 is \ inches, 3 back to 4 is 3] inches. Shape front edge. 8
Draw
a line
from X
Draw
ii inches.
a line
to G.
from
1
\
j
I
is
M
13 to
\
>
1
3| inches back from the edge. to S
Measure back 9 to E; apply
and back
in! inches; add
t
J,
inch
— 20
is
inches.
square up from 9 to get 6, draw a line from 6 through 10 to _'. Shape the side of forepart and take out \ inch under arm fish. Sweep from [2 to 15, pivoting at X. Cut out the back and apply point V to X; swing 10 to 9
until
j
or
i| inches,
is
1
you gel shoulder measure, plus For broad shoulders and narrow I
inch
at
A-
-
V, and the
same
padding and increasing the back as
is
at
|
inch. collar,
X.
as per
proceed as follows:
Add broken
|
or
g
lines.
inch
at
After the back
Increase the shoulder
necessary.
Diagram on page 43 shows
a
ven good wa\
to cut
a
is
cut,
add
T, raising the shoulder for
concave shoulder.
at
Y
as
much
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Four Button Military Sack With or without exaggerated
shoulder.
The dotted
lines are
exaggi
41
TIIH
42
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE.
HOW TO CUT A CONCAVE The they
fail
SHOULDER.
trouble that cutters usually experience in trying to yet concave shoulders to
make
shoulder point.
provision for the stretching of
A good
test of this is:
it,
and thus
is
that
lose the original position of the
take the fronts of an) ordinary coat and stretch the
hollow of the gorge, the shoulder and the armscye, then
lay the original pattern
upon
it
and
see the result.
The following diagram shows
a
very g
1
way
to yet a concave shoulder:
After the pattern has been cut according to measurements, double your front over, say !
A
inch, as to
from E to F, the result
broken
line B,
and from
the shoulder and armscye as
will
he to bring the shoulder point over as from solid line
solid line
C
to
broken
marked on diagram.
line
I
).
Stretch the hollow of the
gi irge,
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
"How
to cut a Concave Shoulder"
|:i
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
44
THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED SACK The measurements by which
this draft is
produced are
as follows:
inches
Over shoulder,
14}-
inches
Waist length,
17
inches
Blade.
13
inches
Seat,
23
inches
Breast,
38
inches
Full length,
30
inches
Waist,
34
inches
inches
Seat,
39
inches
Scye depth,
o'.
Strap,
1
Square
lines
A
is
B
to
A—U
2.}
A — F.
and
B
g\ inches;
C
to
is
inch;
f
A
to
D
<
is
half
A
17 inches;
is
E
to
is
A
23 inches;
F
to
is
30 inches.
Square out from \t
draw
From
line inside of
B to
in
.',
Square down from
to
I\I
P 1
re.ist.
A
is
.'.
and
1
way between
I\
to
S
is
to
U
is
\
up
F;
G
to
K
J.
\
way between A and
and down
breast.
11 is I full
A
the distance from
half
is
line
to
11
is
II
T
2^ inches.
is
I
11
1
to J
is
K
to
II.
to L. 13 inches.
3} inches.
L
is
35 inches.
Square up from
L.
Square up from M.
to B.
P
and L.
\\ inches, S to
I'..
to F.
halfway between B and
Apply blade measure from
Square down from L.
L
E and
B, C, D,
inch,
go
)
I
breast measure plus
to
Q
inch.
|
is
to
to
LJ
Square up from Q.
inches.
\
1
P
inch.
l
is {
back
V
is
line
|
is
1
inch.
Draw
inch.
to
Square down
V
from
a line
R
is
\
for back.
to T.
Shape back.
Measure distance A 1
)raw a line from
inch less
than
V
to
N
to T.
X
L and X
apply to
\'.
W.
to (1 to get
to 14
is
\
measure plus
for strap
Sweep from
breast measure.
W
J
inch
to X. pivoting at
(
—
[2^ inches
X
>.
to
X
is |
Square forward from 14 by 0.
Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye.
Y
to
Z
is
half waist
Measure distance 4
measure, Z to
and
to D,
Measure distance 6 to E and Square out from X. inches; draw
a line
Sweep from 8 <
ut
X
from 12 to
3 to
is
\
inches, 2 back to 3
waist
inch
measure plus
measure plus
more than Shape
[i to J.
to 9, pivoting at X. extend line
out back and place point
to
1,
and from
V on
point X.
G
through
Gel over shoulder measure from
Sweep
is 3.I
5 to 7, seat
to 12 I
2
X and reshape
shoulder.
1
W
,',
\
5! inches.
is
inch.
1
inch.
breast measure.
u
to 11
front.
— Z up and take out V. to L,
14',
plus
\
inch,
14.I
inches.
is
3]
THE
A
MER
I
CA \
:
GA R
M EN T
CUTTE R
Three Button Double-Breasted Sack
45
4(i
T
II
E
A
M ERIC AN
GA R
M N F,
Strap,
T
C U T TE R
THE AM E R
I
CA
N
GA R
.1
/
E X T
C r T T E R
3()0
Four Button Sack for Stout Figure
T
48
MER
A
E
II
I
CA N
GA R
M
E X T
C
UTTER
FOUR BUTTON SACK For Corpulent Figure The measurements by which
produced arc as follows:
Over
Full length, Strap,
13^ inches
Waist,
Square
A
is
9} inches 17^ inches inches 31
Scye depth, Waist length,
is
this draft
B
to
A—F
lines
15^ inches 13! inches
Breast,
40 42
inches inches
A — V.
and
C
9^ inches; B to
is
shoulder,
Blade,
is
A
f inch;
to
D
is
inches;
17-J
A
to
E
A
2$i inches;
is
to
F
31 inches.
Square out from
D
to inner line
made
the line just
at
3j inches. Square up and
C, D,
P.,
is
to
11
F. G is half way between A and B. Square down from inner line and draw line up to G. From half of full breast. K is half way between and H. K to 9 is
F and
inch.
\
1
is
1
1'.
down from
O
half
way between B and
J incites.
Square out from R.
o.
is
O
to
R
to
S
to
U
is
9.
P
is
1^ inches.
Square up from P.
line
P
to
\
to
from
O
is Jf
V V
is
breast;
Q
R
to
is
more than
inch
•'}
1
J
Square up
breast.
front V.
V
is
5 inch.
Draw
§ inch.
a
and shape back
to S
For every inch that the waist is larger than the breast advance ] inch from 9 to L; in where the breast measure is 40 and the waist 42 inches advance the blade i inch from to L. Square up and down from F. to M is the distance from A to P.. Square up from M. H to J is the same as 9 to
this case,
.'.
I
L
—
I
.
inch, J to
T is
3^ inches.
Measure distance
Draw
N
from
N
A
to
U, apply to
N
L
and up to N, T3I inches plus
Draw
.{
inch
— 134
inches.
from 8 to I. to 19 is J breast measure. 17 is half way between Land M. Square forward from 19 by 17. \V to X is 1 waist. X to Y is 1 inches, Y hack to 7. is 3} inches. Square down from Y. Measure back 2 to D and Z to 3, | waist measure plus \ inch. Square down from 3 to 4. a line
to G.
to 8
is
breast, plus
,',
\
inches.
\
a line
]
From 4
to
Draw
i^ inches.
1 is
Sweep from
11
to [2
pivoting
at
a line
N.
from
through
3
Sweep from
1
to
11.
Shape the
10 to 20, pivoting at
17.
side of front.
Shape
front,
gorge, shoulder and armscye.
From Mark same and
1.
13 are
take out the
V
to
[5
is
-,
Measure distance from
of sleeve length.
distance from bottom to 13 and
14.
Draw
15 to
a line from 13 to 14.
bottom
From
of front.
15 to 14
measure each. 23 is half way between P and 9. Between 23 and jj to 1., cut the pocket to 14 and take out inch inch that has been added from
breast
I,
\
<
1
(
to botti mi of front.
Cut out the back and place point G through [6 to
inch allowance from
Finish as represented,
U
on point X Sweep
L.
I
,
iage.
Get over shoulder measure with
J
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE
Four Button Sack for Corpulent Figure
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
50
After the front the
bottom
as
is
cut out and the
shown on Diagram
10,
V
taken out as from 17 to the bottom of front, reshape
following:
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Diagram
io.
61
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER THREE BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK.
THE
52
The measurements by which
this draft
is
produced are as follows:
Scye depth,
Over shoulder,
9 inches Natural waist, i6| inches Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Full leng-th, 36 inches Strap, 12 inches
is
Square
lines
A
is
to
B
A— E
9 inches:
and
A — U.
B
C
to
36 inches. Square out from B. C, D,
Seat,
f inch;
A
to
D
is
16^ inches;
A
to
E
is
i8i inches;
A to F
is half way between A and B. to I is 2-J inches, I to J is 1 inch. 18 inches. is half way between B and H, 9 inches. Kto L is 3J inches. Square down from I and L. to is the distance from Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12 J inches. L to
B
K
is
13^ inches 12^ inches 36 inches inches 32 37 inches
Blade, Breast, Waist,
to
H
is
half of full
E and
F.
G
breast,
H
M
A
},
B, 18 on 6th division.
Square up from L and M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1^ inches. Square up from P; P to O is ] breast, O to R is i-J inches; Q to T the same. Square out from R. R to S is J inch. A to U is f inch more than | breast. Square up from U, U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is I inch more than | breast. F to 2T is the same as E to 1. Shape back. Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N. strap measure 12 plus inch. 12} inches. Draw a line Draw from N to G. Square forward from N. N to T4 is £ breast. T4 to 13 is ii inches. a line from 13 to J. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. N to 20 is £ inch less than V to S. N to 12 is £ breast measure. Square forward from Shape gorge, shoulder and armscve. 12 by 17. 1
,
From 2 to 3 is i^ inches in this case. The waist suppression is as follows: Where the waist measures the same as the breast, or more, take out 1} inches between 2 and 3, never less; and for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast take out £ inch in addition to \\ inches: in this case, where the waist is 4 inches smaller than the breast, 4 eighths and 1^ make ij inches. to X is \ waist measure. to is 1} inches. From 3 to n is { waist measure. From
Y
W
back to Z is 3^ inches. Measure waist 2 to D and Z to
X
Y
and take out balance between 6 and
7, in this case \ smaller than the breast. However, when the waist is as large as the breast and there is nothing left to take out between 6 and 7. take I inch out, and omit taking a fish out at the waist, and three inches from to Z is enoueh for a stout person. to 7. and shape front and side body. Draw a line from to 6 and Sweep from 1 to a. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N. Draw a line from 8 to waist line at 7. Draw a line from waist line to 4. 3,
inch, or ^ inch for everv inch the waist
is
Y
K
K
THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to o. 3 to <» is o inches. to 10 is r| inches. Draw a line from inch more than 1 tn ji. A through Torn it. 8 to 15 is the same as 4 to it. 4 to t t is to tt. Draw a line from Shape top of skirt dropping- it 1 inch at 8. round the skirt § inch over to. Cut out the back and place point V on point N; get over shoulder measure from G through 18 to L, sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. J
i c;
THE COLLAR Draw a line from Square down from 24.
t
inch above J through N to 24. inches. 24 to 25 i24 to 23 1
J
X is
1
'\
to 24
inches.
is
the same as Shape collar.
A
to V.
THE
A
M ERIC AN
GA R
MEN
T
Three Button Cutaway Frock
C
UTTER
53
54
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Over
s
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
One Button Cutaway Frock
55
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
56
ENGLISH WALKING COAT The measurements by which
this draft
produced are as follows:
is
Scye depth,
10
inches
Over shoulder,
14! inches
Natural waist,
17
inches
Blade,
Fashionable waist, 19
inches
Breast,
13^ inches 40 inches
Full length,
38
inches
Waist,
36
inches
Strap,
13} inches
Seat,
41
inches
Square
lines
A
is
B
to
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;E
10 inches;
and
B
A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; U. C
to
f inch;
is
A
to
G
is
D
is
A
17 inches;
to
E
is
A
19 inches;
F
to
is
38 inches.
Square out from B, C, D,
B is
half
to
H
is
E and
F.
half of full breast measure,
way between B and H, 10
inches.
half
way between
H
20 inches.
K to L
is
to
I is
A
and
B.
2% inches;
I
to J
is
inch.
1
Square down from
3^ inches.
I
and
K L
Apply blade measure from B to L, 13^ inches. L to M is \ the distance from A to B, 20 on 6th division. Square up from L and M. O is half way between B and L O to P is 1} inches. Square up from P. P to Q is \ breast. Q to R is \\ inches. Q to T is the same. Square out from R. R to S is % inch. A to U is f inch more than \ breast. Square up from U. U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to is \ inch more than ^ breast, F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Shape back Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure 13} plus \ inch, 13^ inches Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 23 is \ breast. 23 to 22 is Draw a line from 22 to J. 1^ inches. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17.- N to 20 is \ inch less than V to S. N to 19 is \ Square forward from 19 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. breast measure. 1
From From 3.I
2 to 3
is
3 to 6
is
if inches.
From
\ waist.
Measure
waist, 2 to
D
and Z to 3
inch for every inch the waist
Draw 4,
W to X
is
\ waist.
X
to
Y
is
1
\ inches,
Y
back to Z
is
inches.
pivoting
a line at
T.
from
K
to 6
and
Sweep from
arid take
out balance, \ inch, between 6 and
7,
or \
smaller than the breast.
is
K
and shape front and side body. Sweep from 1 to at a point 1 inch back from N. Draw a line Draw a line from waist line to 4. Shape the side body
4 to
from 8 to fashionable waist line. reducing it \ inch at T and \ inch
at
to 7,
8,
pivoting
blade
line.
THE SKIRT Square down from through 10 a line
from 12 to
3 to 9.
4 to II
to 11.
is
3 to 9
\ inch
is
9 inches; 9 to 10 is ij- inches. Draw a line from 4 to 2 to )raw 8 to 12 is the same as
more than
1
1
.
_|
1
1
.
I
II.
Shape top of skirt dropping it { inch at X. and rounding it | inch over 10. Cut out the back and place point V on point N. Measure over shoulder from Finish as represented. 18 to L and add \ inch.
G
through
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
English Walking Coat
CUTTER
57
AMERICAN
THE
58
G
ARM E N
I
CUTTER
THREE BUTTON FROCK For Stout Figure The measurements by which
this draft
is
produced are as follows:
Scye depth, 9^ inches Natural waist, 17 inches Fashionable waist, 19 inches Full length, 38 inches
Square
A—E
lines
and
A — U.
Strap,
13^ inches
Over shoulder,
15 \ inches
13^ inches inches
Blade, Breast, 40 inches
Waist,
40
A to B is gl inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to F is 38 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to is half of full breast, 20 inches. to I is 2% inches. I to K is half J is 1 inch. way between B and H. K to L is 3^ inches. Square clown from L. Apply blade measure from B to L or wherever it comes to. Square up from blade; from L to M is the distance from A to B. Square up from M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1^ inches. Square up from P. P to Q is \ breast. Q to R is i£ inches. Q to T the same. Square out from R. R to Sis finch: A to U is inch more than J breast. Square up from U. U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is ^ inch more
H
H .'.
1
if
than
I
I
F
breast.
From
2 to 3
to 21 is
Measure back from N
)ra\v a line
inches.
Draw
is
the
same
i| inches; 3 to 6 A to V, apply to
to G.
as is
E
to
I..
Shape back.
| waist.
L and up to N, strap measure plus { inch, 13.} inches. breast. Square forward from N. N to 14 is 14 to 13 is ,1
\\
from 13 to J. way between L and M. a line
T7 is half Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. N to 20 is \ inch less than to S. to 19 is \ breast; square out from 19 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye Shape side body, reducing it ] inch at T a'nd \ inch at blade line. From is i waist to X to Y is 1 ) inches. to Z is 3.^ inches. Square down from Y. Measure waist 2 to and Z to 3. There being nothing to take out in this case between 6 and 7, omit taking out a fish, and instead take out ^ inch between
V
N
W
X
Y
D
i>
and
7.
to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at 1 inch back from N. From front edge to 2j is a line from where sweep crosses line 8 to side of front. ai 27. Take out \ inch
Sweep from
1
Draw '
waist.
V
Draw waist
is
a line from 4 through 27 and 8; note the as large or larger than the breast.
V
at
27
is
to be taken out only
when
the
THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to 9; 3 to 9 is 9 inches; 9 to 10 is i£ inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. 4 to 1 1 is the same as 1 to 21. 8 to 12 is the same as 4 to 1 1. Draw a line from 12 to 11. Shape top of skirt reducing it \ inch at 8 and rounding it § inch over 10. Cut out the back and place point V on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 18 to L and add } inch. 15.V inches. Sweep from wherever the back reached on front and reshape shoulder.
THE COLLAR Draw
25 to 26
is
N
to 25 is the inch above J through N to 25. i£ inches; 25 to 24 is 2 inches; shape as represented.
a line
from
1
same
as
A to
V.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
?(<H^
Three Button Frock for Stout Figure
59
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
60
THREE BUTTON FROCK For Corpulent Figure The measurements by which Scye depth, cjh Natural waist, 17 Fashionable waist, 19 Full length, 38 lines
A —V
and
A
is 9-J-
inches;
B
B
is
produced are as follows: Strap,
42
A — E.
to
C
is
13} inches inches \ 13^ inches 40 inches
Over shoulder,
Waist,
Square to
this draft
inches inches inches inches
J inch;
A
38 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and 11. B to 25 is half of full breast, 20 inches.
D
to
G
is
is
half
15
Blade, Breast, inches
17 inches;
A
E
to
is
19 inches;
way between A and B. way between B and
11 is half
25.
H
A
to
to J
1
is
is
1
3^
inches.
For every inch
that the waist is larger than the breast, advance \ inch at J. In this case, 2 inches larger than the breast, advance from J to L ^ inch, also advance From 24 to 5 is 2 k inches; from 5 to I is 1 inch. i inch from 25 to 24. Square
where the waist
same
the
down from
is
5.
to J, 13 \ inches; and to L, ^ inch. Square up from L. E to from A to B, 19 on Oth division. O is half way between B and J. O to P is 1} inches; square up from P. P to Q is } Square out from R. R to S is J inch. breast; Q to R is iA inches; Q to T the same. A to V is J inch more than ^ breast. Square up from V. V to U is § inch. Draw a line from V to S. E to 1 is \ inch more than J breast. to 21 is the same as E to 1. Shape
Apply blade measure from B
AI
J the distance
is
1
1
back.
A
U, apply to L and up to N, strap measure plus \ inch, 13A inches. jt, to 22 is X to 23 is breast, Square forward from X. 2 inches. Draw a line from 22 to E Sweep from 26 to 20, pivoting at 17. N to 20 is \ inch less than U to S. N to 15 is $ breast. Square out from 15 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. From Y back to Z is 3^ inches. From 2 to 3 to X is \ waist. X to Y is 1] inches.
Measure back
Draw
a line
from
X
to
to
(
\.
,'
1
!
W
is
1 inches.
1
Shape side bod}', reducing \ inch at T, and \ inch at blade line. 3 to 6 is ^ waist. 6 to and Z to 3 for waist measure. ^ inch, or measure back 2 to From to take out the half inch increase from J to L. Draw lines from to 6 and from to 7. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 18, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N.
7
D
is
H
K
H
K
From front edge to a line from side of front to where sweep crosses line at 18. Take out J inch V at 19. Draw a line from 4 through 19 to front edge, and from waist line to 4. Draw
[9
is \
waist.
THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches, 9 to 10 is 1^ inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to F. From 4 to F is the same as 1 to 21. Shape top of skirt, dropping it } inch at 18. From 18 to 12 is the same as 4 to F. Draw in mi 12 to F. Finish skirl, rounding it § inch over IO. Cut out back, place point U on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 26 to L, 15I plus \ inch, 15A inches. Sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. -
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 22
23
N
Y (\KS£
Three Button Frock for Corpulent Figure
61
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
62
SINGLE BREASTED FROCK, STRAIGHT FRONT The measurements by which Scye depth, Natural Waist,
produced are as follows:
this draft is
Over
inches
9
\6\ inches
inches inches
Full length,
40
inches
Waist,
Strap,
12
inches
Seat,
37
Square
lines
A— E
and
H
to
is
is
half of full breast
E
f inch;
and
— 18
A
G
F.
inches.
Apply the blade measure from B
A
— 18 on 6th
to
D
to
H —9 inches. K to L
way between B and
inches
A —U.
A to B is 9 inches; B to C 40 inches. Square out from B. C. D, B
12^ inches
Breast,
36 32
Fashionable waist, i8| inches
is
13^ inches
shoulder,
Blade,
L
is
is
half
H
A
to
E
way between
A
and B.
\6\ inches;
is
18J inches;
A
K
2\ inches; I to J is 1 inch. Square down from I and L. is 3^ inches. Square up from L. L to \2\ inches. to
I is
to
is
M
F
half
is
\
Square up from M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1} inches; square up from P. P to Q is -J A to breast; Q to R is 1^ inches; O to T the same. Square out from R; R to S is f inch. to S. Square up from U; U to V is \ inch. Draw a line from is f inch more than \ breast. the distance from
to
B
division.
U
U
E
to
is
1
\ inch
more than
Measure back A inches.
N
Draw to 14
Draw
a line
is
\
from
N
to G.
breast, 14 to 13
Shape back. is the same as E to I. and up to N, strap measure. 12 plus \ inch Square forward from N.
F
\ breast.
to Y. apply to
is
to 21
L
\2\
i\ inches.
from 13 to J. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. 17 is half way between L and M. N to 20 is \ inch less than V to S. Place square at K and 18 and square forward. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. a line
From
X
to
Y
is
2 to 3 1
1
is
if inches in this case.
inches;
Y
out balance between 6 and
7,
From
3 to 6
is
\ waist.
From
Measure waist 2 to 3! inches in this case \ inch.
back to Z
is
D
from K to 6 and K to 7 and shape front and side body. Sweep from to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at Shape the bottom of front. from N.
Draw
W to X
and Z to
is
\ waist;
and take
3
lines
1
a point
1
inch back
THE SKIRT Draw a line from 8 to 4. Square down from 4. 4 to is inches; 9 to 10 8 is \ inch more than T to 21. Draw a line from 4 through ro to 11. 4 to same as 4 to [I. Draw a line from 12 to II. Round the skirt % inch over 10. 1
Finish as represented.
1
is
1
\ inches.
to 12
is
the
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Single Breasted Frock, Straight Front
63
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
64
CUTTER
THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK The measurements by which
Square
From
lines
A
A —V
B
this draft
is
produced are
i3i inches inches 15
Over shoulder, Blade, Breast,
13! inches inches inches
40 36
Waist,
A — E.
and
as follows:
Strap,
inches inches inches inches
10 Scye depth, 17 Natural waist, Fashionable waist, 19 Full length, 42
the scye depth, 10 inches; from B to E is fashionable waist, 19 inches;
C
is
A
to
from
A
D
to is natural length, 42 inches. and B. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way hetween to I is 2.\ inches. Square down from I. is half of full breast, jo inches; From B to to L is 3^ inches; square down from L to get W. half way between B and H; from Apply the blade measure from B to L, 13^ inches. Square up from L. to
is
A
waist, 17 inches;
to
f inch;
F
is full
A
H
H
K
is
From L
O
is
From P
M
to
half
K
is
A
to B. \ the distance from From to L.
Q
to
is
From Q to R is \\ From R to S is £ inch.
\ breast.
Square nut from R.
From A a line
from
U
From E
O
way between B and
to
V
is
more than
% inch
Square up from M. is \\ inches. Square up from P.
P
inches.
From
Q
V
Square up from V.
\ breast.
to
T
to
the same.
is
U
is
§ inch.
Draw
to S.
to
1
is
\ inch
more than
From F
J breast.
Shape the back as represented. Measure distance from A to U, apply same
to
L
to 21
is
the
same
as
from
E
to
1.
and up to N, strap measure plus 4 inch,
13! inches.
Square forward from N. From N to 22 is J inch from 22 to I. Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17; from N to 20 is 17 is half way between 1. and M. Place the square at K and 18 and square forward for gorge. 4 inch less than from U to S. to X is i waist; X to Y is \ inch. Y Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. From back to Z is 2\ inches. From 2 to 3 is if inches; from 3 to 6 is \ waist. Measure waist from 2 to D. apply same to Z and back to 3. and take out balance between 6 and 7. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T; sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N. inch at blade line, and finish bottom Shape the side body, reducing it r} inch at T, and
Draw
more than
a line }
from
breast.
N
to
G
Draw
to get t8.
a line
W
]
of front as represented.
THE SKIRT Draw a line from 8 to 4. square down from 4 to 0. square down from 8 by the waist line. From 4 to 9 is 9 inches; square (Hit from <>. From 9 to 10 is 1 J inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. From 4 to 11 is the same as from 1 to 21. From 8 to 12 is the and round the skirt J inch at 10. same as from 4 to 1 t. Draw a line from 12 to 1
r
THE REVER Draw inches
at J
a line parallel
with
and 2f inches
at
X—
I,
make
the width of the rever 2^ inches at the waist, 3^
10
THE COLLAR From from the lapel crease through X to 24. A to U. Square down from 24. From 24 to25 is 1] inches. Make the width of tin- collar at the notch i'{ inches.
Draw
a line
Finish as represented.
X
to
24 is the same as from 24 to 23 is 2 inches.
From
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Three Button Double Breasted Frock
65
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK THE
66
For Stout Figure The measurements by which
Full length,
is
4-'
A— V
lines
is
'produced are as follows:
g\ inches;
B
Over shoulder, Blade
C
to
inch;
is \
13! inches inches
40
Breast,
A
inches
40
Waist,
A — E.
and
13 j inches 15 j inches
Strap,
inches inches inches
17 Natural waist. Fashionable waist 19
Square A to B
this draft
y^ inches
Scye depth,
to
D
is
17 inches;
A
E
to
is
19 inches;
A
F
is
Draw
a
to
42 inches.
Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. N to I is 2\ inches. B to II is half of full breast. 20 inches. K is half way between B and II. K to L is 3| inches. Square down from and Apply blade measure from B to L. Square up from L. L to M is I the distance from \ to B, 19 on 6th division. Square up from At. is hall way between B and I.. O to P is \ inches. Square up from P.
I..
I
(
1
)
P
to
Q
is
Square out from
A E
to
inch
:
to A"
from
line
is l
V 1
O
breast.
!
to S. inch is I
l\.
to
I\
R
to
S
more than more than
Q
U- inches. is '} inch.
is
is
the same.
breast.
Square up from V.
breast.
11
I
|
T
to
to 21
is
the
same
V
to
E
as
U
to
is
|
inch.
Shape the back.
1.
and up to X. strap measure 3 plus inch, 13! inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 22 is \ inch more than breast. Draw a line from 22 to I. 17 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. X to 20 is inch less than from U to S. Shape shoulder and armscye. 2 to 3 is i{ inches. Place a square on K and 18, square forward for gorge. 3 to 6 is X to A' is inch; Y back to Z is 2! inches. waist. to X is l waist. Measure waist from 2 to D and from Z to 3. There being nothing left to take out, omit the fish and take out \ inch instead between 6 and 7. inch at blade line. Shape the side bod)', reducing it \ inch at T and Sweep from to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to [3, pivoting at inch back from X. Draw a line from 13 to side of front and shape bottom of side body. Take out J inch V at 14. Draw: a line from inch less than I waist. From 8 p. is to X. 4 through VIi
A
asure back
to
U, apply
to
1.
{
1
J
1
]
W
]
]
J
1
1
1
1
Draw al
I,
1
1
1
a line parallel
and 2* inches
at
1
with X
—
THE REVER
f.
9.
make
the width of the rever 2! inches
ai
8,
3.1
inches
THE SKIRT
Draw a line from 4 to inches. 1 is 9 inches, o to 10 is Square down from 4. to 21. to 1 1 is the same as through i<> to X to 12 is the same as 4 to 11. Square down front of skirt by waist line. Draw a line from 12 to 11. Round the skirt § inch at 10. Cm out the back. (', through 18 to L, plus let over shoulder measure from e point Q on point X. inch. 15! inches. Sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. .
|
1
1
.
1
(
1
1
-
(
J
Till' I
)ra\v a line
24 to 25
is
1
COLLAR
from crease through X to 24. in- lie 24 to v is :inches. !
X
to 21
Shape
is
the
same
as
A
to
I".
collar as represented.
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Double Breasted Frock for Stout Figure
67
68
TH E
A
MER
:\\
I
CA
this (In
N
CA R
.1/
E
N
T
CU
T TER
THE
A
MERiCAN GA RMENT CVl
Double Breasted Frock fob Corpulent
F
I
ER
gure
m
AMERICA
THE
70
GA R
.V
MEN
C
T
I
T
'
I
R
I
TUXEDO COAT The measurements by which Scye depth,
14;;
inches
13!
inches
inches
Breast,
39
inches
inches
Waist,
35
inches
Hip,
40
inches
30
Strap,
13
A— F
From A
to
J! is
23 inches; to F
o
and
A — U.
inches; from
,
From
in
inch; from
is \
A
D
to
is
17 inches;
A
from
t<>
E
is
1*'.
l'».
D go
C
to
1!
30 inches. Square out from C, D, E and
At
produced are as follows:
Blade,
Full length,
lines
is
Over shoulder,
Waist,
Square is
this draft
9I inches inches 17
draw
inch,
.',
the line inside of
Square down from
a line I!
to
(i is
up to
1]
is
way between A and
half
G and down
B.
to F.
19^ inches.
half of full breast,
II
to
is
I
j\ inches.
I.
way between B and H. Apply the blade measure from
From
J is half
K
J to
to K, 13
I!
\
is
Square down from K. Square up from K.
3} inches.
inches.
the distance from A to 1!. From I\ to L is is half way between K and L. Square up from L. inches; square up from Q. P is half way between B and K; P to Q is From Q to R is breast from R to S is if, inches; square out from S. S to T is From A to L* is | inch more than J breast. Square up from U U to V is inch. .',
M
1
J
\
;
j
from V to T. Shape back. Measure distance
inch.
Draw
•"'
;
a line
Draw
a line
Place the square
Sweep from
A
K
to V, apply to
from X
to
at J
G
to get
X
and
X
;
and up to X. strap measure plus
and square forward through
X to Y, pivoting at
M.
J
inch, 13
inches. J
square forward from N.
From X
Y
to
is
<
|
>
for gorge.
inch less than from
V
to
I
Shape the gorge shoulder and armscye.
From
/.
to 3
from 2 to get
is
more than
1] inches
\ waist;
from
3
back to 2
is
3^ inches. Square
down
8.
Measure hip from 9 to E and from 8 to jo. 20 plus \ inch, 20^ inches. inch, \%\ inches. Measure waist from 7 to the line inside of D and 2 to 6, 17', plus Shape the side of front, reducing it \ inch at Q. Sweep from 12 to 15 pivoting at X 1
THE COLLAR The break point
\
down from 3
and
of the roll
inch outside of 24.
-'
|
X
to 25
is
1 J
inches above the pocket.
is
finish as represented.
1
j
Draw
a line
from the break to
a
From X to 24 is the same distance as from A to \ Square From 24 to 23 is \\ inches. Draw a line from 23 to inches.
to 24.
.
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Tuxedo Coat, Shawl Collar
71
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
72
TUXEDO COAT, PEAKED LAPEL The measurements by which
Over
inches
Blade,
[3
inches
Seat,
23
inches
Breast.
38
inches
Full length,
30
inches
Waist,
34
inches
inches
Seat,
39
inches
Square
lines
A
is
to
I!
A
to
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;
g\
U4 U and A
the scye depth,
F
D go
From di
>\\ 11
in
\
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; (>.',
B, C, D,
inch.
I
F.
C
inches; B to
E and
G
F.
)raw a line up
the line inside of B to
fn 'in
14^ inches
shoulder,
is
j
inch;
A
to
1
>
17 inches;
is
A
to
E
is
H
i<>
half
is <
way between
half of full breast, 19 inches.
is
and
\
B.
and down to F.
I
H
to
1
is 2},
inches; square
I.
is half way between Band II. Apply the Made measure from B
J
From
1\
ween K and
to
I.
is
.',
K
3^ inches; square down from K. Square up from EC. Square up from L. the distance from A to B. M is J
to
t<>
K
is
13 inches.
half
way
bet-
L.
half way between I! and K. inches. Square up from Q. I' to Q is From to R is \ breast; from K to S is J inches. Square out from S. S to T is f From A to U is \ inch more than | breast. Square up from L'. From U to V is |
1' is
i
1
I
23
length, 30 inches.
is full
Square out from At
produced are as follows:
is
17
Strap,
inches;
this draft
inches
Scye depth, Waist length,
]
inch.
1
V
Shape the hack. Measure distance A to Y, apply same to K and up
)raw a line from
inch.
to T.
to X, strap
measure plus
J
mch.
13
inches.
Draw more than
from \ to
a line \
Draw
breast.
G
to get X.
a line
from
is From X to breast. Draw a Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. <
>
J
From X
Square forward from \\
W
to
from X through From X to Y is
line
Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. From / to 2 is inch more than J waist. |
to \Y
is
\
inch
I.
From
2
<
]
hack to
for
>
gorge.
inch less than from
3
is 2.
1
,
inches.
8
V
to T.
j\ inches
is
iack fn >m fn mi edge.
I
Measure back 9 to E, apply to Sand back to to, seal measure plus inch.. Measure 7 to line inside of D, apply to 3 and back to 6, waist measure plus inches. Shape the side of forepart reducing it \ inch at },
(
Sweep from
12 forward, pivoting at X.
).
Finish as represented.
1
inch.
[8
Tuxedo
*
oat,
Peaked Lapel
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
71-
FULL DRESS COAT, SHAWL COLLAR The measurements by which 9 if 4 Natural waist, Fashionable waist, 18^ Full length, 40
Square
A
From
A— U
lines
B
to
waist, K<\ inches;
is
A
and
this draft is
produced are
inches inches inches inches Waist,
Scye depth,
B, C,
13^ inches i-A inches 30 inches
Blade, Breast, inches
32
B
the scye depth, 9 inches; from
D,
E and
G
F.
is is
inches
12
Over shoulder,
A — E.
to E, fashionable waist,
Square out from
as follows:
Strap,
C
to
is
'i
A
inch; from
i84 inches; A to F, full length, halt way .between A and B.
D
to is
natural
is
40 inches.
From B to H is half of full breast, 18 inches. From 11 to I is \\ inches. K is half way between B ami Ft. K to L is 3! inches. Square down from L. Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12^ inches. Square up from E. and E. From O to P is { inches. Square up from P. is half way between From P to [J is breast. <J to R is ii inches. Q to 1 is the same. From E to I is \ inch more than \ breast. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line from 1 to 21. From A to U is i inch more than i breast. Square up from L'. I to \ is | inch. Draw a line 1
1'.
.}
from
Finish as represented. is i the distance from
to S.
L*
From E
M
to
up from M. Measure distance
A
same
to V, apply
A
to B.
to
L and up
17
halt
is
way between
to N, strap
L and M.
measure
Square
12, plus \ inch,
12] inches. 1
X From X
>raw a line from
ward from X.
From X
to [9
is
I
\
waist.
From
_'
X
to 3 to
Y
is is
G
to
24
V
to S.
1^ inches. 1} inches.
is
!,
Square for18 to 20, pivoting at 17. Draw a line trom 24 to J. From X to -'O 18 through iy for gorge.
Sweep from
to get 18.
breast.
i
inch less than from
is
to
inch less than
Draw
l
breast.
a line from Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye.
From
Measure waist from to D and Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at _'
3 to
X
is
I waist.
From
\\
to
X
j] inches
is
and take out balance between 6 and
to 3
Sweep from
4 to 1(>, pivoting at a point to 7. to 6 and from X. From 16 to 8 is f inch. Draw lines from inch at blade line. Shape the side body, reducing it \ inch at T and Shape bottom of front from 8 to waist line. T.
K
less
than
7. 1
inch back
K
.[
THE SKIRT From 3 to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. o to 10 is Square down from 3 to 1;. Drawn line from 4 through 10 to 11. From 4 to 11 is the same as from to 21. Shape the top of skirt. From 16 to 13 is \'\ inches. From 13 to 14 is the distance from is the same as from 13(014. )raw a line from 14 to 12. From 11 to [6 to 4. Finish the skirt, rounding it § inch at 10. ',
1
inches.
1
'.
1
_>
1
REVER AND COLLAR
Till'.
to the waist. straight line from 24 through Make the width of the rever at the waist inches and 2 inches from to J. Draw the shawl crease through X to 25. In mi X to 25 is the same as from A to \ '. Square down fn un 25. 25 to 26 is inches. From 25 to 15 is [J inches. Draw a line from 15 to and shape as represented.
Draw
.1
I
:
I
1
,
1
I
]
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Full Dress Coat. Shawl Collar
75
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
76
FULL DRESS COAT, PEAKED LAPEL The measurements by which
this draft
is
produced are as follows:
\
E
Blade, Breast,
inches
38
inches
34
A U and A E. inch; A to D is natural waist, id! inches; A scye depth, 9^ inches; 1! to C is is fashionable waist, ii>.[ inches; A to F is full length, 40 inches. Square out from 1!, C, D, E anil F. G is half way between A and B. is to ! inches. B to II is half of full breast, 19 inches. K to L is 3! inches. Square down from L. K is hall waj between I! and is ! the Square np from L. L to Appl) the blade measure from B to L, 13 inches. Square
tn
Over shoulder,
—
—
I2| inches 14^ inches inches 13
Strap,
inches Natural waist, [O^ inches Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Full length, 40 inches Waist, o!
Scye depth,
tn
lines
:
is
i'.
;
H
1
1
1
;
1
M
distance from (
)
to
A
to
inches. P is Square up from 1
17
11.
half
is
way between
I.
and M.
way between
half
is
>
(
1'.
and
I.
]
P to
I'.
is
j
of breast
Q
measure.
R
to
is
Q
inches,
[|
to
T
the
same.
Square out from R; R V to I
U
S
to
>raw a line from U to S. E to is inch more than J
1
to 21.
of breast
\
!
1
from
inch.
is \
more than
inch
is \
Square up from
measure.
breast measure, F to 21
is
same
the
U
I'.
as
E
to
V
to
is g
Draw
1.
inch. a line
Shape the back.
Measure back A to V. apply to L and up to N, strap measure pins X to 24 is | inch )ra\\ a line from N to G; square forward from X.
>:
inch, i_ less
than
X to 10 is 1 of breast measure. measure; draw a line from 24 to I. Draw a line from 8 through 19 for gorge. Sweep front t8 to 20, pivoting at [7; N to 20 is inch less than V to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. inches. 3 to 6 is [of waist measure. From to 3 is From VV to X is 2] inches less than ! of waist measure. X to front edge Draw a line from _'4 through and X. fake out balance between <> and 7. and X to 3. Measure back 2 to inch at blade line. inch at T and Shape the side body, reducing it Sweep from to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to [6, pivoting at a point inch back from X. 'raw a line front 8 to the side of forepat From 16 to 8 is £ inch.
inches.
;
J
I
,'.,
of breast
1
|
:
_'
1
;
is
1
inch.
I
I
>
j
J
1
1
1
I
THE REVER Draw Make
a line parallel
with
I
—
the width of the rever
8. :
1
f
inches
inches
at 8, _'!
THE SKIR Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 Draw a line from through 10 to |.
the top of skirt. b'ri mi [6 to
loom I
1
[3 to
3
1
1
is is !
Finisll skirt
,
_' j
inches
at
15.
I
Square out
9 inches.
1 1.
and
From 4
to
1
1
is
the
fn
im
same
9 to 10 is i£ inches. as fn mi to 21. Shape
9.
1
[4 inches.
the distance from 1(1)04.
14(0 rounding it
>raw a line from
is
at J
1
1
1
to 12
is
the
same
as [3 to 14.
_».
g
inch
at
10.
Get the over shoulder measun from shape shi inkier.
Cut out the back, and place point V
G through
t8 to
I.
plus
[
inch.
1.4!
011
point X.
inches.
Re-
THE
A
MERICAN
G
.
I
R
.1
/
E
mâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;
i?
Full Dress Coat
N
T
CUTTER
77
T
7S
II
E
FEW WORDS
A
IN
1
CA N
GA R
.1/
E
CU TTER
N T
REGARD TO WAIST SUPPRESSION
proper amount of blade pocket, or roundness over the blade bone,
In order to get the
we herewith place
E R
1/
I
3 different
back and the round Made
to
diagrams for 3 different
show how
figures,
namely, the normal, the
il.it
the waist suppression changes the blade fullness'.
DIAGRAM A Idle
measurements
of this draft are: 13
Breast,
38 inches 34 inches
Waist,
This Made to
I
c)l
1
ut
inches
Blade,
is
inches, or
considered normal for the breast measure as .',
breast.
The distance from
out the back and place point
28 to jo over-lapped
is
y
inch.
O
to side
_>
to 3
is
1
;;
it
leaves the distance from
L
inches.
body and point
1
to 4.
and the distance from
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
DIAGR KM
\
Normal Blade
79
THE
80
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
FULL BREAST-FLAT BACK DIAGRAM
B
Blade,
12^ inches
Breast,
38
inches
Waist,
34
inches
The
distance from 27 to J
is
10 inches, showing the person to be
full
breasted with
flat
back, in which case proceed as follows:
From place
it
2 to 5
from
The
is
if inches; from 27 to
I
is
J inch; take out l of that distance,
-]-
inch,
and
5 to 3.
distance from 6 to 7 will be
and point
L
to 4,
f
inch; cut out the back and place point
and the distance from 28 to 29 over-lapped
showing a small blade pocket.
is
a little less
T
than
to side i
body
inch, thus
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
DIAGRAM 1m
i
I
B
Breast, Flai Back
81
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
82
FULL BACK FLAT BREAST DIAGRAM
C Blade measure from
B
distance from 26 to J
26
is
13^ inches.
34 inches
Waist,
The
to
38 inches
Breast,
is
9 inches, showing the person to be
full
backed and
fiat
breasted.
Proceed as follows:
From
2 to 3
From L Take waist
if inches.
is
to 26
is
A
inch.
\ inch off from 3 to
between 6 and
5,
which
is |
L
to 26,
and take out balance
of
7.
Cut out the back and place point T
28 to 29 over-lapped
the distance from
is f
inch,
showing
to
sidebody and point
a large blade pocket.
I
to 4
and the distance from
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE TER
DIAGRAM C Full Back, Flat Breast
83
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
84
CHESTERFIELD OVERCOAT The measurements by which
this draft
produced are
is
17
Full length.
42
Strap,
1 -'ii
as follows:
Over shoulder,
14,}
inches
inches
Blade.
13
inches
inches
Breast.
38
inches
inches
Waist.
34
inches
oi inches
Scye depth. Waist length,
39 inches inch over short measures.
Hip.
Add
and waist measures and
3 inches to the breast
Square
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;U
lines
A
and
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
%
F.
A
From A to Bis \o\ inches; B to C is % inch; from A to D is [7 inches; A to F, full length, is 42 inches. G is half way between A and B.
E
to
23
is
inches;
Square out from B, C, D, E and
From B
H
to 4
} is
to
2 A inches; 4 to
is
1
is
way between B and
half
_'
K
tween
and
L
to
is
Square down from 4 and
inches.
Square down from K. is 3.! inches. J to to K. 13 phis ] inch, 13] inches. Square up ;
A
the distance from
.',
I.
K
11.
Apply the blade measure from B
From K
F.
half of full breast. jo\ inches.
11 is
to
M
Square up from L.
1'..
is
from K.
half
way
be-
L.
P is half way between B and K. P to Q is A inches. Square up from Q. From O to 1\ is breast. R to S is i-J inches. Square out from S. S to T From A to U is inch more than breast. Square up from I'. 1
:
is
{
inch.
;
:
.'
J
U
to
V
is
inch.
|
I
'raw a line from
Measure distance from A
V
to T.
same
Shape the back. and up to X, strap measure 12^ plus
I
Draw
a
K
to
iyl inches.
inch.
X
)raw a line from
1
to
G
Square forward from X. from 13 to I.
line
to V, apply
From X
to
)
(
Sweep from X
is
i
to get X.
From X
to 141s
breast.
,'
From X
M.
2A inches.
is
by M.
Square forward from
breast.
to Y, pivoting at
14 to 13
;
to
Y
is
j
inch less than from
Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. From Z to 5 is A waist. From 3 to 3 is 2 inches. From Shape the front. is 4. ,-mehes back from the front edge. Measure back from 10 to K. appl) same to 8 ami back to inches. From 10 to 9 is r{ inches. Square up from inch. 2
back to
3
\
2
is 4.I
V
to T.
inches.
8
l
through 10
to
Shape the
side of front reducing
to V.
as
ri'i
from the
it J
lapel crease
Square down from
iresented.
measure. 21 plus
Draw
o.
a line
A
from 6
Sweep from
inch at Q.
1
1
to 12, pivoting at
J.
12 to 15, pivoting at X. Till-'.
(raw a line
A
to
[2.
Sweep from
1
scat
10. <;
1.',
21.
COLLAR
through X
From
21 to 22
to 21. is
1 |
X
to 21
inches.
2
is 1
the
same distance
to 20
is
2
|
inches.
as
from
Finish
THE AMERICAN GARMENT' CUTTER
*®~ Chesterfield Overcoat
85
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
86
TOP COAT The measurements by which
(
i
Over shoulder,
9^ inches
14^ inches
Blade,
Full length,
35
inches
Breast,
39
Strap,
13
inches
Waist,
35
and waist measures and
3 inches to the breast
A— U
lines
From A is
produced are as follows:
inches
Square
F
is
17
Add
to
this draft
Scye depth, Waist length,
B
to
inches
§ inch to the short measures.
A — F.
and
ioj inches;
is
13I inches inches
B
C
to
A
inch;
;
is
;
to
1
17 inches;
is
)
A
to
E
is
A
23 inches;
35 inches. half
is
way between
Square out from
From B
to
II
A
and B. E and F.
C, D,
1'.,
half of full breast, 21 inches.
is
Square down from I. J is half way between I! and H. J to K is Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13J plus inch, 14 inches; square up from K. From K to L is the distance from A to B. Square up from L. and K. P to Q is ih inches. P is half way between R to S is \ inches. Square out from S. S Square up from Q. Q to R is breast. 1
to
1
is
I
4.
1
,
inches.
3^ inches.
;
,
.',
I',
1
}
to
T
is
f inch.
\
to (J
is
from \Y
line
ij
more than
inch
Square up from U.
breast.
|
U
to \Y
is
Draw
| inch.
a
to T.
Shape the back. Measure distance
A
W,
to
apply same to
K and up
M. strap measure
to
13 plus
inch,
1
14 inches.
Draw
a line
from
from
1
1
to
From by tin-
(
G
Al to
Square forward from
to get 22.
Al.
M
12
to
is
,',
12 to
breast;
11
is
2^ inches.
Draw
a line
I.
Al
to
X
is
breast.
1
half
is
way between K and
J..
Square forward from
N
).
From
Sweep from 22 to 6, pivoting at O. gorge, shoulder and armscye. A
is
where the armscye crosses
line B.
M
to 6
is \
inch less than
S [uare down from
\'
to
W to T.
X; from
A"
to
Shape
X
is
12
inches.
From \ Square out from \. From X to A' is i inch. Draw brum inches.
A'
to
J is
as
much
A'
to 2
to to
is
9
X
lines
is
3 inches.
from
\
through
A"
and from V through Z. from \ inch to
extra back as you wish to add to a box coal
from broken to solid lines. the same length as from J i<. Sweep from 2 to
Reshape back
From From
to
.
1
is
.
1 J-
as
\ waist;
from 9 to 8
is 2.\
7,
pivoting
at
Al.
Finish the front.
inches.
THE COLLAR Draw
a line from lapel crease through
Square clown from
14.
14 to
15
is
1
|
M
inches.
to
1
|.
Al
14 to 13
to [4 is the is
i\ inches.
A
to W. as from Finish as represented.
same
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Top Coat
s7
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
FULL BOX OVERCOAT The measurements by which Scye depth. Waist length,
9-V
17
50
Full length, Strap, '
12'i
this draft
A
A—
A— U
B
to
Square out from B, C,
D
B
to
B
to
H
to
io| inches;
is
H
C
and F;
2 A inches;
to
1
A
to
D
over
17 inches;
is
halfway between
is
all
short measures.
A to F A and
is
50 inches.
LI.
2 inches.
is
J
G
f inch
14^ inches inches 13 38 inches 32-36 inches
joA inches.
half of full breast,
is
I is
Blade, Breast, Waist,
inch;
is %
as follows:
Over shoulder,
measures, and
3 inches to breast and waist F. and Scpiare lines
Add
produced are
is
inches inches inches inches
Square down from 1 and J. to K is 3! inches; scpiare down from K. and is half way between Apply the blade measure from B to K. plus % inch, 13^ inches. the distance from A to B, 20A on 6th division. to L is Scpiare up from K; P is half way between B and K.
W
1'.
1
K
P
to
O
is
1
W
:
.',
iA inches.
R
breast. Square up from Q< Q to R is Square out from S; S to T is i inch. j
to
S
is
1
A
inches.
:
A
U
to
is
U to V
more than
inch
|j
1
Measure back A
Draw
a line
to 12
M
is
is
From O From
from
(
)
I breast.
12 to
to 6
1
1
is
2\ inches.
Draw
Sweep from
V
inch less than
is ]
1
inch, 13I inches.
Square forward from O.
to G.
way between L and K.
half
Square up from U.
I breast.
)raw a line from V to T. to V, apply to K and up to O, strap measure plus
inch.
is I
a line from 11 to
5 to o,
pivoting at
J.
M.
to T.
X by M. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. Square down from 4 to X. 4 is where the armscye crosses line P. X. from out Scpiare inches. to 12 X is 4 X to Z is vV inches. X to Y is \ inch. Draw a line" from 4 through 7. to 2. Draw a line from 4 through Y to the bottom. coat, from A inch to is as much extra back as you want to allow for a box From 4 to to
X
is
\
Scpiare forward from
breast.
W
1
{
inches.
a line from
Draw 10 to
.»
is
.',
W to
Reshape back
1.
9 to S
waist.
is
Sweep from to 2, pivoting at Sweep from 2 to 7. pivoting at Shape bottom of front.
as represented
Shape the
i\ inches.
front.
4.
1
(
).
Cut out back and place point V on point O. Get over-shoulder measure from G through 5 to K. 14! inches, plus
1
inch. 15A inches.
Reshape shoulder.
THE COLLAR 1
down
to 14. >raw a line from lapel crease through inches. from 14. 14 to 4 to 13 is 2 5 is
Shape
<
1
1
[
collar as represented.
1
to 14
I
j
inches.
is
the
same
as
A
to V.
Square
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Full Box Overcoat
89
T
90
II
E
.
I
M
E
RIC A N
GA R
M
E A T
C U T TE R
INVERNESS The measurements by which Scye depth, Waist length,
produced are as follows:
is
Over shoulder,
9^ inches inches 50 inches i2f inches
14^ inches inches 38 inches i 2 '^ inches
Blade, Breast, Waist,
17
Full length, Strap,
Add
this draft
13
3 inches to breast and waist measure and 5 inch to all short measures. Square lines A E and A V. A to B is 10 inches; B to C is % inch; A to is \~\ inches; A to E is 50 inches. Square out from B, C, D and E. F is half way between A and B. B to G is half of full breast, 20^ inches. G to H is 4^ inches. Square down from H. I is half way between B and G. Square down from J. I to J is 3| inches. Apply blade measure from B to J plus $ inch, 13I inches. Square up from J. J to K the distance from A to B. Square up from K. L is half way between J and K. P is half way between B and J. P to Q is 1^ inches. Square up from Q. From O to U is 1 inch. Q to R is } breast measure. R to S is 1^ inches. Square out from S. S to T is % inch. A to V is J inch more than ^ breast. Square up from V. V to is inch. Draw a line from V to T. Square down from U to X. U to X is 12 inches. Square out from X. X to Z is 35 inches. X to Y is J inch. Draw a line from through Y to 10. Draw a line from U through 1. From 11 to 1 1 is the same as from U to 10. and from through R to U. Shape back from A to Measure distance A to W, apply to J and up to M, strap measure plus inch, 13'j
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
1
'
I
is
l
W
;'-
U
Z
to
1
W
W
1
inches. a line
from
M
O N
breast;
M from
M
Draw to
W
to
is
}
is
i breast.
to F.
O
to 17
Square forward from M. is
Draw
2] inches..
N
Square forward from
a line
by L.
from 17 to H.
M
to
1
is J of the breast. Square out from 6. Shape the front. 8 to q is 2I inches. 7 to 8 is \ waist. Shape gorge, shoulder Sweep from 1 1 to 12, pivoting at M.
T
is
the
same distance
as
to 36.
to 6
From
and armscye.
THE CAPE Place a sheet of paper under the pattern and trace out as follows: From to M, around the gorge, to crease of lapel. Hack from II is 2 inches and 9 to 8 is the same. Measure the inside sleeve length from J to 4. Sweep from 4 to 5, pivoting at M. Sweep from 4 to 3, pivoting at M. Extend line 1 through 2 and B to 3. Finish as represented. 1
Nick the back
|
at line 6.
THE COLLAP Draw
M
from IT through From Square down from 13.
From Make Draw
a line
to 13. [3 to 15
to 13 is the inches.
1V1
is
1
J
13 to 14 is 2 inches. the width of the collar at 16 two inches. a line from 14 to 16 and finish as represented.
same
as
A
to
W.
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Inverness
91
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
92
DOUBLE BREASTED ULSTER The measurements by which Depth
this draft
is
produced are as follows:
Over shoulder,
10
inches 17! inches 48 inches 13] inches Seat,
of scye,
Waist length, Full length, Strap,
Blade, Breast,
Waist, inches
41
inches 15 13^ inches 40 inches 36 inches
Add 3 inches over breast and waist and inch over all short measures. 'Square lines A U and A F. A to B is io| inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is i~S inches; D to E is 6 inches; full
length, 48 inches. Square out from
B in
11
I'..
C, D,
E and
half of full breast
is
:;
—
—
F.
measure,
G
is
half
way between
A
and
A
to
F
is
B.
21-i inches.
H to 4 is i\ inches. 4 to I is \\ inches. Square down from 4 and 1. J is half way between B and II. J to K is 3^ inches. Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13^ plus % inch, 14^ inches. Square up from K. K to 1. is \ the distance from A to Square up from L. is half way between K and L. 1' is half w:i\ between I! and K. P to is 1 A inches. Square up and down from Q. 1'..
M
A
to
U is
inch
\
more than
\ breast.
Square up from V V to V is | inch. Q to R is \ breast. R to S is \\ inches. Square out from S. S to 'I" is | inch. Draw a line from U to T. Shape the back. Measure distance A to V, apply to K and up to X, strap measure plus inch, 14', inches Draw a line from X in (. to get X. Square forward from X. N to 14 is I breast. 14 to 13 is 5 inches. Draw a line from 13 to I. X to O is ^ breast. Square forward from O by M. Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. X to Y is \ inch less than V to T. Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye, .
1
/.
t<>
5 is
From
\
waist measure.
5 to 3 is 4;] inches.
3 to 2
is
7 inches.
edge to 8 is the same as Iron. 3 to 2. -Measure back 10 to F, appl) to 8 and back to 10, seat measure. 44 inches. 10 to 9 is \ inches. Square up from n to 0. (raw a line from (> through 10 to 12. Shape the side of the front. In mi 6 to 2 is the same as from 7 to 11. Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. Between front and back at Q take out \ inch. Extend line from 4 5 up and take out V as indicated. front
1
1
1
—
THE COLLAR Draw
a line
Extend
line
from (
>
lapel crease to
—X
inch beyond N.
\
to 21.
From X to 2] is the same as from A to V. inches. Square down from 21 to jj. From 21 to 22 is 5.I inches. From 21 to jo is )raw a line from 21 down to V as marked. Shape the collar stand from 20 as indicated. Cul out the back. Place point V on point X. through X to K, 15 plus inch, id inches. Get over shoulder measure from Reshape sin mlder. 1
J
1
(
i
1
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Double Breasted Ulster
93
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
94
CUTTER
SINGLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT The measurements by which
this draft
produced are as follows:
is
inches Strap, 13 Over shoulder, 14! inches inches clinches Blade, Fashionable waist, 19^ inches 50" inches Breast, 39 inches Full length, inches Waist, 35 Add three inches to the breast and waist measures, and | inch over all short measures.
9f inches
Scye depth, Natural waist,
Square
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; E
lines
A F
is
\-j\
and
to B is io4 inches; so inches.
B
A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; U. C
to
to
K
is
H
is
half
$ inch;
F and
Square out from B. C, D,
B
is
half of full breast. 2
1
way between B and H.
F.
A G
to
to
half
is
H
inches.
K
D
L
is
way between
to
is 3-i
A
i;i inches;
A
i\ inches. inches.
I
is
to
E
is
19^ inches;
A
to
and B. I
to J
is
2 inches.
Square down from I and L. Apply the blade measure from B to L, 13^ plus f inch, 14 inches. Square up from L. is \ the distance from A to B, 21 on 6th division. L to Square up from M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is \\ inches.
M
Square up
H
inches, O to T is the same. to R is from P. P to Q is \ breast measure. Square out from R. R to S is $ inch. A to U is f inch more than \ breast measure. Draw a line from U to S. Square up from U. U to V is \ inch. F to t is inch more than \ breast measure. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line from 1 to 21 and shape back. Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure, plus 1 inch, 14 inches. 1
a line from N to G. 14 to 13 is 2% inches. Square forward from N. N to 14 is \ breast measure. Draw a line from 13 to J. \~ is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17. N to 15 is i breast measure, square forward from 15 by 17. N to 20 is 1 inch less than Y to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. From 2 to 3 is i| inches. 3 to 6 is j waist measure. \Y to X is ^ waist measure. X to V is 2 inches. Y back to 7. is 4J- inches. Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3; take out balance between 6 and 7. Sweep from to _t. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at I inch back from X.
Draw
1
,
1
Draw
from 8 to the side of front. Shape the side body, reducing it } inch a line
at
T
and | inch
at blade line.
THE SKIRT Draw a line from point 5 to waist line at 16 and square down from 8 to 4. Draw a line from id inches. Square out from 9. 9 to to is 9 inches. S to 12 is the same as 16 to 11. [6 to II is the same as t to 21. through 10 to 11 waist line. Square down from 8 by waist line. Square down the front of the skirt by the Shape bottom of skirt'. Round the skirt 5 inch at 10. on noint N. Place point Tut out the back. Get the over-shoulder measure from G through 18 to L plus 1 inch, 15$ inches. 1
to 9.
>r;iw
a line
10 to 9
1
is
'
V
THE COLEAR Draw a line from the lapel crease through N to 23. N to 23 is the same inches. 23 to 24 is 2} inches. down from 23. 23 to 22 is At the notch make the collar 2 inches wide. Finish as represented, t
J
as
A
to V. Square
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
CUTTER
Single Breasted Frock Overcoat or Single Breasted Surtout
THE
96
M E RI CAN
A
MEN
GA R
T
TTER
CU
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT The measurements by which
this draft
produced arc as follows:
is
Scye depth, 93 inches Natural waist, 17.] inches Fashionable waist, ig\ inches Full length. 50 inches
Strap,
Blade, Breast,
Waist,
(Add
A
lines
inches
35
3 inches to the breast and waist measures
Square
inches 14] inches 13] inches 39 inches 13
Over shoulder,
and
— E and A — U.
;
;,
inch over
short measures.)
all
A to B is ioi inches; B to C is inch; A to D is \~\ inches; A to E is \n\ inches; A to 50 inches. Square out from B, C, >, E and F. ishalf way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast measure, 21 inches. to is 2 ! inches. is half way between Hand II. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from and L. Apply the blade measure from to I.. 13] inches, plus inch, 14 inches. Square up from L. 1. to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. is half way between 1! and L. O to P is J inches. Square up from P. I' to Q is breast. Q to R is \ incite-. Q to 1- the same. Square out from R. R t< S is inch. A i" U is I inch more than l breast. Square up from l". {' to V is | inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is inch more than breast. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line from to 21 and shape back. Measure back A to A', apply to L and up to X. strap measure plus inch, 14 inches. Draw a line from X to G. Square forward from X. X to 13 is J inch more than breast. Draw a line from 13 to I. 17 is hall way between I. and M. Sweep from [8 to 20, pivoting at 17. Pla* e the square at l\ and iX and square forward through 13 for gorge. X to 20 is inch less than V to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. From 2 to 3 is I inches. From 3 to 6 is waist. From to X is | waist measure. X to Y is inch. A' back to / is inches. Measure waist 2 to and 7. to 3 and take out balance between 6 and 7. Sweep from to 4. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to X, pivoting at inch back from X. 'raw a line from X in the side of front. Shape the side body, reducing it inch at T and inch at blade line. '\
F
is
<
I
',
1
1
1
K
1
I'.
(
;]
)
1
1
I'
I
']
'
-J
J
1
1
1
}.
!
:'}
W
J
_>.',
|
1
)
1
1
I
[
J
THE SKIRT Draw
a line from 8 to 4. Draw a line from point 10 to waist line at 4 ami square down to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. inches. Draw a line from 4 9 to 10 is through 10 to 11. 4 to is tlie same as 8 to 2 is the same as 4 to 11. to 21. Square down from X 1>\ waist line. Finish skirt rounding it | inch at 10.
loo.
\
1
1
Draw
t
1
—
TIM'
!,
1
RFA'FR
with X Make the width of the rever 2 inches at the waist line, inches at J, and 3 inches at [9. Square down the front of the skirt by the waist line. in "lit the back. Place point V on point X. Get over-shoulder measure from (i through r8 to L, over-shoulder measure plus inch. i; inches. a line parallel
:
I
;
1
1
:
1
;
THE I
Maw
down from wide.
a line
23.
from the j,\
to
_>_>
lapel crease is
1
|
Finish as represented
inches.
C<
>l
through X 23 to 24
is
\R
I.
to 23. 2
1 ,
X
is the same as \ 1. V. Square At 25 make the collar 2J inches
to 23
inches.
1
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Double Breasted Frock Overcoat, Double Breasted Surtout
or
97
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
98
SINGLE BREASTED PALETOT The measurements by which
produced are as follows:
this draft is
Strap,
13
inches
Over shoulder,
14^ inches
Fashionable Waist, 20
inches
Blade,
50
inches
Breast,
<j|
18
Full length,
Waist,
Square
lines
A to
is
B
A— U
and
B
10] inches;
A— E.
to
C
is \
A
inch;
to
D
so inches.
Square out from
B to H is half of down from and J.
I'.,
C, >. E and F. breast, 21 inches. <
1
full
.
is
half
H
to
is
13^ inches inches
39
inches
35
3 inches to the breast and waist measures and
Add
is
inches
inches
Scye depth, Natural Waist,
|
inch over
18 inches;
A
short measures.
all
to
E
way between A and I is
>h inches.
I
is
20 inches;
A
to
F
B.
to J
is
2 inches.
Square
I
K is half way between B and H. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from L. Apply the blade measure from B to L. 13] plus | inch. 14 inches. Square up from L. Square up from M. I. to M is I the distance from A to B. N is half way between B and L. N to O is i inches. Square up from O. O to P is \ P to O is 1^ inches. P to S is the same. breast. Square out from O. O to R is f inch. E to T is £ inch more than I breast measure. Square down from T. is § inch. A to U is I inch more than J breast measure. Square up from U. U to Draw a line from U to R. Shape the back. Measure back A to W, apply to L and up to X, strap measure plus inch, 14 inches. 1
W
1
Draw 23 to 22
X
a line from
to G.
Square forward from X.
to
18
to 23
is
£ breast measure.
2^ inches.
is
Draw a line from 22 pivoting at 18.
X X
X
to
Z
to
Y
is
\
is
J.
is
half
W
way between L and M.
to R. inch less than Square forward from I breast.
Y
by
18.
Sweep from 24
to Z,
Shape gorge, shoulder and arm-
scye.
From
14 to 6
is
\
1
inches.
Square down from K. it inch at S and j inch
side body, reducing
Shape the
T
Sweep from Sweep from
1
at
blade
line.
pivoting at S. 5 to 20. pivoting at t inch back from X. From t to 2 is \ waist measure. From 2 to 3 is j\ inches. 3 back to and 4 to 6, take out balance between 7 and 8. Measure waist 14 to to
5,
.4 is
\\ inches.
D
From 20 down from from
o-
Draw a line from 21 through the side of front to 9. Square to 21 is g inch. Draw a line 10 to 1 1 is 1 1 inches. Square out from I O. Q to 10 is 9 inches.
through to 13
Sweep
to 13. as E to F. from 13 to 19, pivoting at X. is
t
i
the
same
Finish skirt rounding
Cut out the back. on point X. Place point Het over shoulder measure from G through 24 Sweep to Z and reshape shoulder.
|
inch from
1
1
to 12.
W
to L, [4! plus
(
inch, 15} inches.
THE AMERICAN
GARME N T
Single Breasted Paletot
C U TTER
99
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
100
SINGLE BREASTED PADDOCK The measurements by which
12
Strap,
(Add
A— V
lines
and
is
produced are
as follows:
Over Shoulder,
13^ inches 12% inches 30 inches 32 inches 37 inches
Blade, Breast, Waist, Seat,
and waist measures and
3 inches to the breast
Square
this draft
inches inches inches inches inches
Scye depth, 9 17 Natural Waist, waist, Fashionable 19 Full length, 50
A — G.
-
4
inch over
all
short measures.)
A to B is 94 inches; B to C is | inch; A to D is i/i inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to G is 50 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and G. II i> half way between A and B. From D to F is 6 inches always. Square out from F. From D to V is ] inch. Draw a line from Y to II. From the line just made at B to 1 is half of the full breast Square down from J and K. I to J is 2^ inches. measure, 19^ inches. J to K is 2 inches. is 3^ inches. Square down from M. L is half way between B and 1. E to inch, 13J- inches. Apply the blade measure from the line inside of B to M, I2| plus Square up from M. Square up from X. the distance from A to B, nj\ on 6th division. to N is 1' to O is 1' is half way between B and M. inches. Square up from Q. Q to R is R to S is 1^ inches. R to T is the same. Square out from S. S to U is f inch. \ breast. A to V is 4 inch more than \ breast. V to is f of an inch. Draw a line from V to U. Y to X is \ breast. Square down from X. Shape the back. and up to Z, strap measure plus 1 inch, 13 inches. apply to Measure back A to Z to 3 is £ breast measure. Square forward from 3 by O. Draw a line from Z to IE Square forward from Z. Z to 20 is \ breast measure. 2(1 to 25 is i\ inches. Draw a line from 25 to K. and N. Sweep from 1 to 2, pivoting at O. is hall way between to U. Z to 2 is \ inch less than Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. From 4 to 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 6 is 2] inches. 6 back to 7 is 4-^ inches. Shape
M
jj
M
;',
U
W
W
M
M
W
the front edge.
From
8 to 9
is 4]-
Measure back
inches.
F and
12 to
9 to 13, seat measure 20 plus
Draw
1
inch. 21 inches.
from 11 through 13 to 14. Measure waist X to Y and 7 to 11, take out balance between 16 and 17. Shape the side of the front, reducing it \ inch at P and rounding \ of an inch over the line 13 and 14. From 11 to fashionable waist is ^ of an inch more than X to fashionable waist. Sweep from 2~ to 14. pivoting at T. Sweep from 14 to 15. pivoting at Z. Shape the bottom. 'ut out back, place point \V on point Z. to M, 13} plus i inch \ \\ inches. ,et over shoulder measure from II through Sweep to 2 and reshape shoulder.
From X
to
1
1
is
1
j
inches.
a line
:
1
1
1
THE COLLAR Draw 20.
a line
20 to 21
Shape
is
Z to 20 is the same from 2^ through to 20. 20 to 22 is 2] inches. inches. 1
J
as represented.
as
\
to
W.
Square down from
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
i.
Breasted Paddock
1(U
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
102
DOUBLE BREASTED PADDOCK measurements by which
lie
Scye depth,
this draft
is
produced are as follows:
Over shoulder,
9^ inches iji inches
Natural waist,
Fashionable waist, ioi inches 50
Strap,
\2h inches
Add
3 inches to the breast, waist
der and blade.
Square and
inches
Full length,
lines
A
A to B is \o\ G full length.
and
hip,
B
to
C
is 4
inch;
Square out from B, C, D, E, F and G.
D
to inner line
Draw From
A
inches inches
Breast,
38
inches
Waist,
34 40
inches
Hip,
and 5 inch over scye depth,
— V and A — G.
inches;
14I
Blade with allowance, 13
to
D
is
H
is
half
\"j\
inches;
E
inches
over shoul-
fashionable waist;
way between
\ inch. a line from the \ inch to II and down. line inside of B to I is \ of full breast, 20| inches.
strap,
A
and
F
hip;
B.
is
to J
I
is
-'',
inches.
J
to
Square down from J and K. L is half way between B and I Square down from M. is 3! inches. L to Apply the blade measure from 1! to M, 13 plus \ niches. y\ inches. M to N is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from N and up and down from M. P to Q is \ inches. Square up from Q. O to I' is half way between B and M. inches. R to T is the same. Square out from S. R to S is breast. S to U is 5 inch. A to V is J breast plus \ inch. V to \V is f inch. Draw a line from V to U.
1\
is
4 inches.
M
1
1
R
is
\
H
From
D
to
X
is
breast.
\
Square down from X. Finish back as represente
W
to M and /.. strap measure plus inch, inches. A to Z to 25 is \ breast. 25 to 24 from Z to H. Square forward fn im Z. O is half way between M an X. 4i inches. Su'eep from 1 to 2, pivoting at O. Z to 2 is inch less than to U. Z to 3 is i breast. Draw a line from through 3 for gorge. Shape gorge, shoulder am armscye. From 4 to 5 is waist 5 to 6 is 4] inches; 6 to 7 is (>J inches. Draw ines from 25 to and 24 to K. Extend line J 5 up and take out V. Shape front edge and lapel. 8 to 9 is 6i inches. Square down from L. From \" to TI is 1] inches. Measure waist from X t( side of D, apply to 7 and back to 11. Takeout balance between 16 and 17. Measure back 12 to F and 9 to 13, hip measure plus inch. )raw a line from through 13 to 14 and shape side. Sweep from I.| to 15. pivoting at Z.
Measure distance
Draw
1
a line
is
W
-]
1
.',
:
—
1
1
1
1
Finish as represented.
J
CUTTER
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
Double Breasi ed Paddoi
k
103
THE
104
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
MEASURING A HUNCHBACK In
measuring
this figure all the
except that after the scye depth
is
measures are taken the same as
upper end come opposite to where the collar ought to begin.
B
Line
Letter
Take
The
is
A
for
any other person,
located place a square or a ruler at the back and
See figure
let
the
6.
the scye depth. is
the height of the neck.
the measure as from
A
to B, then begin to
difference in the length in
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; B
and C
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;B
measure the scye depth is
changed
in the draft.
as
from C to B.
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
How
to
Measure
a
Hunchback
LOE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
IOC
STRAIGHT FRONT SACK FOR HUNCHBACK The measurements by which Height of neck, Scye depth, Waist length,
17
Full length,
30
lines
A
is
inches;
to
B
A
to
F
A— U
and
produced are as follows:
Over shoulder,
13 \ inches
Blade, Breast, Waist,
13I inches 38 inches 36 inches 38 inches
Seat,
A — F.
height of neck, 8^ inches; is full
is
inches inches 11^ inches
Strap,
Square
this draft
8^ inches 9^ inches
B
to
C
A
inch;
is |
to
D
is
17 inches;
A
to
E
23
is
length, 30 inches.
Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. At D go in j inch. Draw a line from G to D and square down. From the line just made at B to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to I is 3 h inches. Square down from 1 to K is 33 inches. J is half way between I! and 11. Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from line inside of B to \V, 13^ inches. Square up from W. \\ to L is >s the measure of depth of scye, i8£ on 6th division. M is half way between and L. P is half way between B and W. P to O is 1 \ inches. Square up from O Q to R is \ breast. R to S is 1 i inches. Square out from S. S to T is f inch. I
W
A
tn
I" is
'';
inch
mure than
Square up from L U to Shape back as represented. :
.
Measure distance
A
J
V
breast measure. is
Draw
| inch.
to V, apply to
W and up
a line
from
to N, strap
U
to T.
measure
1
1] plus ) inch,
1
ti
inches.
Draw a line from N to G. Sweep from X to V, pivoting
at
M.
N
Y
to
is
.[
inch less than
V
to T.
N
to
O
is
§
breast measure.
Square forward from O by M. Square forward from N. N to 13 is breast. 13 to 14 is ih inches. Draw a line from 14 to 1. Shape the gorge, shoulder, and armscye. From X to 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 3 is \ inches. 3 to 2 is 3! inches. 8 is 3-1 inches from the front edge. I-
1
Measure back 7 to D and 2 to 6, waist measure plus 1 inch. Measure 9 to E and 8 to 10, seat measure plus inch. Shape side of front, reducing one half inch between back and front at O, sweep from 12 forward, pivoting by N; finish bottom. The scye depth as from (' to B on figure is 9) inches. 111 the back from G to R, and open it from G to 15 until the measure from B to 16 is 1
1
9
inches. J
(ut out the back and place point Get over shoulder measure from Finish as represented.
(i
V on
point N. through X to
\\
.
13! plus
j,
13.
1
,
inches.
R
THE
AME R
I
C
AN GAR M E N T
C U T TE
Straighi Front Sack for Hunchback
Wt
THE
108
A
MERICA N
M E NT
GA R
CUT
TE R
CASSOCK COAT The measurements by which Scye depth, Natural waist, Fashionable waist,
17.I
length,
52
Full
this draft is
produced are as follows:
9^ inches
Strap,
\<>'
2
Blade, Breast,
Waist,
Square A to B is
lines is
1
9.
A
12J inches 14^ inches inches 13 38 inches
Over shoulder,
inches inches inches
inches
34
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; U and Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; E.
inches,
B
C
to
is
If
inch;
A
to
D
is
\j\ inches;
A
to
E
if)i
is
inches;
A
F
to
52 inches.
Square out from B, C, D,
B
H
E
G
and F.
is
half
H
K
half of full breast, 19 inches. half way between I! and 11. to
way between
A
and B.
I to J is 1 inch. 2^ inches. K L is 3^ inches. Square down from 1 and is Apply the blade measure from B to L 13 inches. Square up from L. is I the distance from A to B. Square up from M. L to
to
is
to
I is
1..
M
O
is
half
way between B and
O
L.
to
P
is
i\ inches.
P
Square up from
P.
U
to
Q
to
is
^
breast.
I^ inches.
Q
to
Square out from R.
R
to S
Q A
R is
to
to
U
is
T
more than
3 inch
J
the same.
is
is
JJ-
inch.
Square up from U.
breast measure.
V
is
|
inch.
U
to S. >raw a line from E to 1 is I inch more than
1
Draw
J
F
breast measure.
to 21
is
4 breast
measure.
Shape back as represented. Measure distance A to Y. apply to E and up to X, strap measure plus \ inch. breast. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from X. X to 14 is 'ii 13 is Draw a line from 13 to J. \ inches. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 5. From 5 is half way between E and M. inch less than from V to S. N to 15 is breast. Square forward from 15 by 5. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. a line
from
1
to 21.
,'
;
13 inches.
From
14
1
X
to 20
is
]
-J
From From
2 to 3 to
W
is
X
Measure waist tween 6 and 7.
Sweep from
i
From 3 to 6 is From X to Y is
inches.
'';
1
is
J
j-
2 to 1).
waist.
inches. V back to Z is 3J inches. ] apply to Z and back to 3 for waist measure; take out balance be-
waist.
to 4. pivoting at T.
1
Sweep from
4 to
X.
pivoting
at a
point
1
inch back
from X.
In mi 8 to 17 is inch. Draw a line from 17 through 33 to 16. From id to is o inches. From 9 t'> 10 is ^ inches. Draw Square down from 10. a line from 16 through 10 to From 10 to 11 is the same as from E to F. Square down from front of skirt by waist line. From 8 to 12 is tin- same as fn mi 16 to 11. Shape the bottom of skirt. Cut out the back and place point V on point X. get over shoulder measure from G inch. 14JJ inches. through 18 to L plus .',
1
1
1
]
Till-.
\
COLLAR N
the top of lapel through to 23. From 22 is inch. From 24 to jt, is J inch. Finish collar, making the width of same in front t inches.
Draw a line from to V From 23 t"
1
.',
N
to 23
is
the
same
as
from
THE
A
M ERIC A N
GAR M ENT CUTTER
Cassock
109
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
110
THE SLEEVE Measure the arm If
scye.
for a sack coat without an underarm seam, add J inch to the measurement;
stance,
if
the armscye measures 18 inches,
arm seam, then
cut
A— L
Square
lines
A
to
B
is
B
to
D
is
j of
D
to
C
is
I
C
to
E
is
make
the sleeve iNA inches; but
according to measure.
it
A — F.
and
i inches always.
i
the armscye.
inch.
^ of the armscye.
Square out from B and D.
From C
H
to
I
to II find
is
-\
Square down from to J
II
Draw
is
i
to
K
is
K
to
L
is
J
i
scye.
I.
inch.
from
a line
A
arm
of the
h
inch.
E
to
J.
of the armscye. of the armscye.
C
Draw
a line
From
D
to
(
and F
to
From B
to
P and F
to
R
are
Shape the sleeve from
O
through C through L to H.
from >
K.
to
Q
is
i| inches. i
\
inches.
Shape the undersleeve from C through P to
D
F
to
is
Square out from F.
Fn
M
'in is
way between
Measure width
Add 1
i
made
the line just
half
J.
the inside length of the sleeve plus
1
of sleeve
to
X
1
is
1
§
inches.
and N. from F to N.
inch for seams.
>raw lines from
1
I
to
Finish as represented.
M
and from
J to
M.
|
of
an inch.
if
there
is
for
i
an und<
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Sleeve
111
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
112
HALF AND HALF SLEEVE Measure the arm If for a
stance,
if
scye.
sack coat without an underarm seam, add \ inch to the measurement.
the armscye measure
underarm scam, then cut Square
A
lines
A
to B
is
D
to
C
is
the sleeve
i8| inches, but
— L and A — F. 1'.
C
inch always.
i
make
according to measure.
inches always.
\
i
it
18 inches,
is
to
D
E
is
to
is \ .'
of the armscye.
of the armscye.
Square out from B and D.
From C
H
H
to
is
i
I
is
\
inch.
II to J
is
I
inch.
to
of the armscye.
Square down from
I.
A
to
K
is
| of the armscye.
K
to
L
is
\
of the armscye.
Draw
a line
Draw
a line from
From
I) to
F
to
Q
is
1
from
C E
F
is
1
inches.
to K. to
J.
the sleeve length.
Square out from Q.
From F
M
is
half
to
N
is
the width of the sleeve plus
way between
I
i
inch for seams.
and \.
Shape the upper sleeve from
1
\ml the undersleeve from
to
1
Shape the upper sleeve from
M
and the undersleeve from
through
II
L
J to
to C.
<
J
t
<
»
'.
Finish as represented, hollowing the sleeve
|
inch
at
the front seam.
M.
if
For
there
is
in-
an
THE
AMERICAN
K
GA R
M E NT
L
The Half axu Half Sleeve
CUTTER
113
THE
114
A
M E R IC AN
G
ARM EN T CUTTER
SLEEVE FOR BOX OVERCOAT Measure the armscye before the back
is
cut out without extra addition to the back, and
For
then measure the addition that the back makes.
instance,
the armscye measures 20
if
inches without the addition, cut the sleeve 20, and add the difference of the addition of the
back, to the undersleeve.
A— L
A — F.
and
Square
lines
A
to
B
is
B
to
D
is }
of the armscye.
D
to
C
is
inch always.
C
to
E
is
\\ inches always.
1
^ of the armscye.
D
Square out from
From C II
to
to
H
is
-i
H
inch.
I is A
Square down from
A
to
K
is
K
to
L
is
and B.
of the armscye.
to J
is
inch.
1
I.
of the armscye.
I
of the armscye.
-J
Draw
a line from
C
to K.
Draw
a line
from
E
to
From
D
F
to
is
J.
the length of the sleeve.
Square out from F.
From
the line just
From F A
I
is
N
to
is
made
halfway between
From
1
>
to
<
)
N
to
I
J
to
t
if inches.
and F to
and X. From
Q
is
Shape the upper and under
From
is
the width of the sleeve plus
r J
inches
sleeve,
1
inch for seam.
D
to
in
each case.
P and F
to
R
hollowing them £ inch
add the increase that the back has made, say
Shape the under sleeve from Finish as represented.
1
to
M
and from
1
is
1
|
inches.
at front \
inch.
through P to C.
seam.
THE AM ERIC. IX
GARMENT CUTTER
Sleeve for Box Overcoat
115
AM URIC AN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
116
SINGLE BREASTED VEST, NO COLLAR The measurements by which
this draft
is
produced are as follows:
Scye depth, Waist length,
9
inches
Breast,
36
inches
17
inches
Waist,
32
inches
Strap,
12
inches
To
12^ inches
ui
inches
Blade,
The
blade measure
in all vests
A to B is 9 inches; A to C Square out from B and C. line
five,
A
inch smaller than in the coat, the vest
therefore
A
inch
less.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
is ^
_sA inches
Full length.
should be cut
having but three seams, while the coat has D. Square line A O and A
C to U Draw a
opening,
C
17 inches;
is
to
D
is
3A inches.
inch.
from
U
From
to E.
the line just
made
B
at
to F, half of
full
breast,
is
18
niches.
From F
to <1
H
way between
is
half
is
Square down from G.
2 inches. 1!
and
H
F.
to
I is
3 inches.
Square down from I. Apply the blade measure from B to 1, \ inch less than the blade measure 12 inches. I to J is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from 1. Square up from J. M to X is \ inch. Square up from N. is half way between B and 1. Square up from ). O to P is A inch. breast. inch more than A. to O is Measure distance A to I'. apply to and up to EC, i_> inches net. Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to Q.
M
<
A,
:'|
I
K
R
to
is
J
inch less than
P
to Q.
Shape the back shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye inside of line
A
inch below
Y
and
A
inch
I.
From S
T
to
is
A
the waist measure.
Square forward from K.
K t<> Draw
|'inch
is
_'
more than
a line from 2 to
K to L
is
V
is
I
<
,' ;
breast
r.
inch.
same as A to P. Measure the opening from V,
K jd'l
to
the
12 plus
|
inch,
and to
7,
JsA plus 1} inches, for make-up.
inches.
From T
V
is
half
1
X is inch more than way between B and .
>
1
Finish as represented.
(
i.
A
waist;
from U to \Y
is
the same.
THE
A
MERICA N
G
ARM E X T
Single Breasted Vest
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; No
Coi
i
C U T T
\i;
ER
11?
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
118
SINGLE BREASTED VEST WITH NOTCH COLLAR The measurements by which Scye depth, Waist length, Strap, Blade,
The
this draft
blade measure in
all
A— O
line
to B is 9 inches; A to C Square out from B and C.
is
half I is
way between
I!
inches inches 12^ inches 25^ inches
36
Full length,
therefore
five,
17 inches;
is
C to U is f inch. Draw a line from U to E. From line just made at B to F From F to G is 2 inches. Square down from G. to
Breast,
Waist, To opening,
A — D.
and
A
H H
produced are as follows: t>
2
vests should be cut £ inch smaller than in coat, the vest having
but three seams while the coat has
Square
is
inches inches 17 12 inches 12^ inches
9
ami
is
C
to
A
D
inch
is
3
.',
less.
inches.
half of full breast, 18 inches.
F.
3 inches.
Square down from
I.
Apply the blade measure from B to I, Square up in un I. I to the distance from A to B. J is Square up from J.
A inch less than the blade
measure, 12 inches.
;';
M
is
M
to
way between B and
half
N
is
1.
inch.
-h
Square up from N.
A
to
(
is
)
nmre than
inch
f
breast.
i
Square up from O.
O
to
P
is
\ inch.
Measure distance A to P, apply to and up to K, 12 inches net. Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to Q. K to R is inch less than P to Q. Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye i inch below and ^ inch 1
]
inside of line
From S
I.
to
T
is
£ waist.
Square forward from K.
K
to G.
plus
to
L
is
K
to
V
is
I
inch
mure than
Measure the opening from A to P and K. to G, inches for make-up, 26| inches. From T to X is inch more than waist. ii mi I' in is inch more than \ waist. and Y is half way between 1
j
-\
1
;
l
,',
breast.
Draw
a
line
from
\
2 inch.
W
1
I',
Finish as represented.
(
].
12 plus f inch for opening;
and to Z 25^
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Single Breasted Vest, With N o :
h
ii.i.ak
11'.)
AMERICAN
THE
1*20
GA R
SINGLE BREASTED VEST
MEN
C U TTE
1
fi
WITH NOTCH COLLAR
For Stout Figure The measurements by which
Waist,
13
inches
To
lines
A
is
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;O
B and
way between
half
I
inches
12^ inches 27 inches
opening,
A
to
C
is
17 inches;
C
D
to
it.
3* inches.
C.
A
and B.
From C to U is I inch. Draw a line from U to E. From line just made at B to F is half of full breast, 20 F to G is 2 inches. H is half way between B and F. from
inches
A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; D.
scye depth 9 J inches;
Square out from is
and
40 40
Full length,
13^ inches
Blade,
Square
E
Breast,
inches
Strap,
B
produced are as follows
is
j
I
to
this draft
9^ inches
Scye depth, Waist length,
inches.
to
II
I is
3 inches.
From S
to
T
Square down from T.
i waist.
is
Apply the blade measure from B to 1, less \ inch, 13 inches. Square up from I. 1 to J is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M is half way between B and I. M to N is { inch. Square up from N. Square up from O. O to P is h A to O is I inch more than ^ breast. Measure distance A to P, apply to I and up to K, strap measure net. :
Draw From
K
from
a line
K to R is
to
E
Draw
to get Q.
inch less than
',
P
a line
from
O
to
K to V K to L
is
i inch
is
i inch
more than
>
breast.
f inch.
Measure distance A to P, apply to K and (own to Z full length plus 1 j inches.
(
i.
opening plus
f inch.
I
From T From U is
half
to
X
to
W
is is
1
1
inch inch
more than more than
h
waist.
h waist.
way between B and G.
and bottom of vest. inches from and parallel with bottom tut the pocket open and crease over \ inch as from
Shape the
front
The pocket
is
5
1
See diagram
7.
inch.
O.
I.
Square forward from K. Draw a line from V to G.
J.
to Q.
Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye inside of
Y
Square down
to get S.
of front. t>>
J.
below
V am
inch
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Single Breasted Vest With Notch Collar
For Stout Figure
121
THE
122
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Front of corpulent man's vest after
Sec
1
>iagram
7.
"V"
has been taken out
at
the pocket.
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
1
)IAGRAM
/
123
124
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
40
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Single Breasted Vest With Notch Collae
For Corpulent Figure
125
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
126
FULL DRESS VEST, SHAWL COLLAR The measurements by which Scye depth,
this draft
is
produced are as follows:
gi inches
Waist length,
17
Strap,
[2|
inches inches
26
Full length,
Square
A
to
E
is
C
to
B
V
and
way between
is
inch.
I
the line just
A
and
a line from at
B
H
is
half
way between B and F;
to J is
A
to
is
O
Measure distance from
Draw
K
a line from
From K
R
to
1!
A
and
more than
f inch
is
\
E
34
inches
is
17 inches;
C
to
B and
D
is
to U.
to
A E
J
to
to
M
X
to
is
1
!,
down from
I.
inch, u.] inches. J.
Square up from N.
inch.
O
to
P
is
|
inch.
and up to K, strap measure, u'l inches.
Draw
to get 0.
P
J
Square up from O.
breast.
to P, apply to
inch less than
3 inches; square
13 less
Square up from
to B.
1.
is
I
I,
a line
from
O
to Q.
to O.
Shape the hack, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye side of line
3^ inches.
C.
half of full breast, 19 inches.
is
H
measure from B
way between
is
Waist. inches
Square down from G.
the distance from
.',
half
E
to
2 inches.
C
to
made
G is
M
inches
inches
Square out from
Draw
to
I
A
B.
F
\]>ply the blade
13
38
A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; D.
scye depth, 94 inches;
is
half
From
Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;O
lines
Blade. Breast.
\
inch at
Y
and
h
inch in-
I.
Square forward from K.
From K From K
to
V L
to
is
is
Measure back A length plus
Draw
I
\
'in
U
ii'
a line
to
from
Y
is
X is
S to
W half
is
inch
I',
more than
From S
inch.
apply to
to
1
inch
]
1\
to Z.
front edge. inch.
more than
\
waist.
way between B and G.
Finish as represented.
].
T
of breast is
|
measure.
waist measure.
K and down
inches.
Shape gorge and
Fn
\
;]
to
I"
for
Draw
a line
from
V
to
<
\.
Square down from T.
opening and down to
Z, for full
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Single Breasted Full Dress Vest
Shawl Collar
127
1-28
THE AM ERIC A N
GA R
MEN
Blade,
T
C U TTER
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
CUTTER
Double Breasted Full Dress Vest Shawl Collar
129
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
130
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST, NO COLLAR The measurements by which Scye depth,
Breast,
38
inches
inches
Waist,
34
inches
Strap,
ij'i'
inches
To
i-2-J
inches
13
inches
Full length,
jf>
inches
Blade,
D
to
A
lines
V
to
From
E
D
is
1
and B.
made
G
inches.
1
3
at
waist length. 17 inches;
A
way between
B
to
C
1
is
3
inches.
and D.
V.
3 to
half of full breast 10 inches.
is
way between
half
is
E
to
is
from
a line
D
B
to
half
is
Draw
of an inch.
is %
the line just
F
to
A
scye depth. g\ inches;
is
opening,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; C and A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; N.
Square out from
B
produced are as follows:
17
Square
A
this draft is
inches
Waist length,
<)\
D
G
and E.
H
to
is
3 inches.
Square down
from H.
D
Apply blade measure from Square up from H.
K
is
A
to
J to
a line
P
from
to
C).
K
to
A
L
H
i
Square up from F.
inch.
and up to
Draw
M.
is
Square up from F
to D.
N
Square up from N.
breast.
apply to
O
i2-\ inches.
the distance from
.',
IT.
-J
J to 3 to get
inch less than
is \
and
H,
to
is
1
more than
f inch
is
Measure distance A
Draw
D
way between
half
N
FI to
a line
J.
to
O
is
i inch.
strap measure. I2| inches.
from
N
to
M.
M.
to
Shape back, shoulder and armscye. Square forward from
R T
to
R
to
J.
is
\ inch less than
is
3i inches.
Draw
a line from 2 to F.
Draw
a line
The
U
R
I"
through T.
A
to
down
From
Y 1
to
>raw
Q Y
in S to
is
1
a line
X
is
inch
O, apply
26 plus
is
1
1
J to
L
is
\ inch.
to S.
from
inches,
breast.
,\
2] inches.
is
Measure distance
a lint-
is
waist.
\
from F through
distance from S to
Draw
J to 2
to J
and down to opening,
12',
inches. 27J inches.
[
inch.
more than
!,
waist.
from J through opening and
finish as
represented.
inches plus
\
inch, 13}
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
I
Iouble Breasted Vest,
No Collar
131
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
132
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST, PEAKED LAPEL The measurements by which Scye depth, Waist length,
17
Strap,
I2j inches
Blade,
Square
A
to
D
to
V
D
inches
and B.
3
Breast,
38
inches
Waist,
34
inches
To
I2i inches
opening,
26
Full length,
A
is
Draw
an inch.
§ of
is
produced are as follows:
inches
A — N.
and
scye depth, 9^ inches;
is
is
inches
13
A— C
lines
Square out from
B
this draft
9^ inches
B
to
a line
is
from
B
waist, 17 inches;
way between
half
A
From
3 to V.
C
to
is
3! inches.
and D. the line just
made
at
D
E
to
is
half of full breast, 19 inches.
E
to
F
G
way between
H
to
if inches.
is
(i is half
D
and E.
Square down from H.
3 inches.
is
D
Apply blade measure from
H
Square up from H.
K A
is
N
I
H, 12A
to is
is
more than
inch
f
Measure distance A
to
<
inches.
the distance from
•*
K
way between B and H.
half
to
to
to
L
| breast.
K apply to II
Draw a line from J to 3 to get M. J to P is } inch less than O to M.
is
to D.
Square up from
a line
I.
Square up from L.
N
Square up from N.
and up to
Draw
\
i inch.
to
O
is
^ inch.
J,
strap measure, I2f inches.
N
to
M.
Shape back, shoulder and armscye. Square forward from
Q
to
R
Draw
is
J to 2
R
from F through
a line
Shape
J.
is
breast.
}.,
Draw
a line
from
2 to F.
J to
Z
is
|
inch
inch less than i waist.
{
to S.
front.
THE REVER Draw Make
a straight line parallel
Draw
a line
(he width of the rever from
\2\ inches plus
From
V
to
Draw
with
O Y
to
is
1
a line
U
from jj
X
to T,
1
inch
from
3^ inches, and from
measure the distance
inch, 13J inches, then is
—
F R. R to T, down
A
U
to S, 20 inches plus
inch.
more than 1
h
waist.
through opening and
to
to O, apply to J
finish as represented.
1
}
S 2\ inches.
and down to opening
inches, 2"]\ inches.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Double Breasted Vest, Peaked Lapel
133
GARMENT CUTTER
THE AMERICAN
134
CLERICAL VEST, BUTTONED ON THE SIDE The measurements by which Scye depth,
38
inches
34
inches
Full length,
26
inches
I2f inches
Blade,
inches
to
B
13
A
U
From
F
to
H
is
B and
inch.
is §
the line just
G
is
half
1
to J is
is
half
A to O
is
a line from
made
at
B
waist, 17 inches;
A
way between B and
I.
more than
C
K to E to
Draw
from
half of
M 1
<
E
3! inches.
is
half
i.
Square down from
3 inches.
1 is
B
to
I,
ul
to
N
1.
Square up from
inches.
Square up from
to B.
P, apply to
to O.
1.
J.
^ inch.
is
Square up from
and up
<
).
O
to
K, strap measure,
to
P
is ^
i_>;]
inch.
inches.
get 0.
From K
to
R
Square forward from
\ breast.
L
is
\
From S
to
T
From
inch is
U to \\*
more than
1
inch
to
I'.
breast.
}
inch less than
j
is
Measure back A
inch less than from
is ]
2
by
P
to
O.
3. \
inch
at
V and
\
inch inside
\
more than apply to
waist.
Draw S
to
a line
X
is
1
from
L
to G.
inch.
\ waist.
K and down
to Z, full length. _'d inches plus
1
[
inches.
inches.
After the vest
and
is
I.
Iv to
_>7]
D
breast, [9 inches.
full
Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscve of line
to
to U.
to
I breast.
a line from a line
is
H
E.
£ the distance from
% inch
F
to
E
line inside of
Draw
is
is
Square down from
if inches.
way between B and
A to
to 2
C
C.
Measure distance
K
to
Draw
Apply blade measure from
M
A
and B.
Square out from to
A— D.
and
scye depth, 9^ inches;
is
way between
C
Breast.
Waist,
Strap,
A— O
produced are as follows:
inches
17
lines
is
9^ inches
Waist length,
Square
A
this draft
is
to he
is
cut, an extra piece of cloth
sewed on to the back on the
is
cut as per dotted line for a button stand,
right side, to be buttoned over
from the
The buttonholes are to be on the front, and the buttons on the extra piece. usually cut with a standing collar to conn' about
\
inch apart in front.
These
left
side.
vests are
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Clerical Vest
135
136
THE AMERICAN
GARMENT CUTTER
Seat,
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
Trousers
CUTTER
137
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
138
PEG TOP TROUSERS The measurements by which
this draft
is
produced are as follows: inches
Outside length,
42
inches
Seat,
40
Inside length,
32
inches
Thigh,
26^ inches
34
inches
Bottom,
16
Waist,
The knee measure may Square
lines
A
to
is
B
to
D
is
B
C
A— B
be taken or
A
and
—
may
be
left
inches
out, as desired.
J.
the outside length, 42 inches. inside length, 32 inches.
is
more than
2 inches
half
way between B and
C.
Square out from B, C and D.
C
to
G
is
E
Square up from
to
H
to
E
to establish
to
is
H
is
is I
of the
H
bottom;
to
L
M
to
Z
to establish
Draw
a line
from
L
to
C
to establish N.
/.
J to
I
K
an inch back from
is
as
C
E
to G.
to J.
i inch less than
is
a line from
of
same
J.
inch out from
]
the
I.
Draw
is
\ of seat measure.
of seat measure.
is J
M
F
to
G to
through
lines \ inch in and
V
E
H
from
a line
Draw
E
measure;
way between C and F; B
half
Draw
half of seat
is
of
bottom.
from Z to 3
is
h of the thigh, 13! inches.
Finish forepart as represented.
waist.
-i
I'';
j
O.
THE HACK PART Extend to
\
is
3 to
W
is
1
From M to
R
M— L, O— N, C—Z, J— K and G—
lines
is
:
^
\\
to I
inch less than inches; F to
T
is
inch;
},
inch
X
to
of scat
,',
U
is
is
Finish back part, dropping
^
of
bottom; from
the same. jj
is
\
waist, plus
1
inch.
l\ inches.
more than
Q
I.
measure; X to Y
inch at U.
L
to S
is
the same.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
L
T
Peg Top Trousers
CUTTER
139
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
140
SPRING BOTTOM TROUSERS The measurements by which
this draft
Outside length,
43
inches
Inside length,
32
inches
Waist,
38
inches
Seat,
40
inches
When
person
a
produced are as follows: Knee, Bottom,
is
Hip,
inclined to be corpulent
is
is
it
best to take a hip
19
inches
19
inches
40
inches
measure about three
inches below the waist.
A
to
B
is
outside length, 43 inches.
B
to
C
is
inside length, 32 inches.
D is 2 inches more A to 3 is 3 inches.
than half way between
Square out from
C,
3,
D
B and
C.
G
half
and B.
From C to E is \ seat. E B to H is the same as C to
F
to
is
£ seat.
Draw
G.
is
way between C and
a line from II through
G
to
F.
I.
In the Springdjottom trousers the forepart must be small at the bottom.
From II to M is 4^ inches. H to L is 4 inches. P to O is I of the knee and P to N is the same. Draw lines from L to N and from M to O. Extend
E
Square up from
From
tti
2 to
K
is
line
from
O
to
Z and from
N
to C.
to get 2.
I waist.
However, the distance between K and A must never be less than 1 inch. In this case, where the waist is only 2 inches smaller than the seat, the distance from A would be \ inch. We will therefore make it one inch and measure waist from K to
9! inches.
From Draw
from
2 to J is the same distance as to C. side from
From
1
to 2.
K
Shape the
inch
3 to 4
is
a line
from
\
more than K, and
J to
\ hip.
finish as represented.
THE BACK PART Extend lines L—M, O, C— Z and G— I. Sweep from C to W, pivoting at N. Sweep from K
N—
to
[
X
I inch less than
is
7.
to
W
is
L
to
S
is \
N
to
O
From X 1
F
\\ inches.
is
inch
\ inch.
to
Y
is
)raw lines from
O
to
2 inches
X
U
to
more than
to Y, pivoting at L.
seat.
\
\
R
is
\\ inches.
is
\
to
T
is
the same.
the same.
more than
to V, from
Finish back part, taking out
M
bottom.
X
\ waist.
to Y,
inch
V
and from
at
Y
to
W.
the waist and dropping
§
inch
at
U.
K I,
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
M
L
T
Spring Bottom Trousers
141
â&#x20AC;¢
43
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Corpulent Man's Trousers
H3
144
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
TROUSERS FOR A BOW-LEGGED PERSON. I
R
After the measures have been taken as
amount
usual, ascertain the
that the legs are
bowed, by having the person stand with both feet
Draft viuir forepart according-
together. If
ly.
part as
the
bow
from
R to N
From R From
be two inches, cut
to
I
2 to 3
and
the fore-
at 2.
inch.
is i is J
in
inch.
Pin the pattern over figure 2 on the figure 3
and
letter
them on II.)
R
to figure
after
a clean sheet of paper.
which place
(See
Diagram
Straighten out the inseam and measure
the length from
proper length. ingly.
1,
F
Now
to
M
so that you get the
cut the back part accord-
(See Diagram III.)
inch, then
it
places, -J inch
is
If
the
not necessary to cut
between 2 and
bow it
in
lie
1
two
3 will be sufficient.
THE
After Being
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Siiortejs'ed in
Seam
145
THE
146
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
TROUSERS FOR KNOCK-KNEED PERSON These trousers are cut cut
open
as
from
N
the pattern over as from
just opposite to the trousers for a
From N
to O.
N
to
i
to
i
is
£ inch or as
bow legged man.
much more
and cut the back part accordingly.
as
may
They
be necessary.
are
Lap
THE AMERICAN
GARMENT CUTTER
Trousers for Knock-Kneed
Man
147
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
148
Narrow Falls pattern for the trousers having been cut, proceed as follows:
The 1
is
half
B to
(i
way between J and K. the same distance as from
is
I
to
From to G is 8 indies, or inch below Add inch from to 3 and J to 4. The waist-band for these trousers is cut I
I
_â&#x20AC;˘
i
and the
fly
K. the pocket as from B.
that
is
added
is
separately. A welt is sewed on as from sewed on underneath part of the forepart marked B K.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
1
to
G
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Broad Falls proceed as follows: After the forepart has been cut out,
Lay
the pattern on the paper and
mark
as from
K
to J, to
2,
an
to A.
From K to A is 8 inches, or A is i inch below the pocket. From j to 2 is 2 inches. button-holes. From J to 4 and 2 to 3 is I inch for buttons and or may be cut separately piece the to added be may The waist-band
149
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
150
WITH EXTENSION
RIDING BREECHES The measurements by which
is
this draft
is
produced are as follows: Knee,
Outside length,
35^ inches
Inside length,
25
inches
Small of knee,
13^ inches
To
22
inches
Calf,
15
inches
Waist,
35
inches
Ankle,
12
inches
Seat,
40
inches
knee,
Square
lines
A
is
B
to
A— E
16^ inches
A—J.
and
22 plus 1^ inches, 23^ inches.
B
to
C
is
2\ inches;
C
to
D
is
4 inches;
36! inches.
E
F
to
is
inseam, 26^ inches.
Square out from F, B, C,
H
D
and E.
is
\ inch
F
to
G
is
I seat.
G
H
to
S
is
f inch.
Square up and down from
Draw
a line
to
from S through
L
to
more than \
seat measure.
G to
establish 7
and
J.
M.
Square down from M.
M
From
to
N
\ inch
is
more than
\ of small of knee.
Square down from N.
P
to
Q
is
I inch
to
R
is
\ inch
Draw J to
more than \ calf. more than \ ankle.
a line from
W
is
F
to
N F to T is ;
Shape
\ waist.
1
side seam,
inch.
and
finish as represented.
THE BACK PART I—U, Y— Z, B— L, 8—5, 9—6 and E— 7. R to 7 is I inch; Q to 6 is \ inch; M to 5 is \ inch. II to Z 2 inches; T to Y is 2 inches; G to 11 is \ seat. U to V is 4 inches; V to X is \ waist plus inch. Draw a line from V to II. Extend
lines
is
1
Draw
a line from
-Measure ankle
Q
to
P and 6
M
to
N
and
1\
1
to 3 and
V
1
to
5.
O
and 7
to 10, 12 inches,
and 2 inches
for the
V
and seams.
to 9 calf, plus £ inch.
5 to 8, small of
Square up from
Cut out
Z to
to
1
knee plus \ inch.
to 2.
4 are \ inch each.
on back
part.
Finish as represented.
1
is
half
way between
O
and R.
A
to
E
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
CUTTER
Riding Breeches with Extension
151
162
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Waist,
THE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE
Bicycle or Golf Trousers
153
THE AMERICAN
154
GARMENT CUTTER
MILITARY CAPE Square
lines
A — B — C.
Place the back of an overcoat pattern of the size required to touch line
A— B.
A — C with the shoulder touching at M — P. D — E — M and the front at P— U around the gorge
Place the forepart to touch line .Mark around the back at edge.
From E
to
F
is I
From P
to
T
is
From
U to
From T Draw
to
lines
S
is i
N is
inch.
i^ inches.
i
inch.
inch.
from S to
Sweep from B
N
and from F to N.
to C, pivoting at S.
Flatten the bottom and hollow shoulder as represented.
and front
THE AMERICAN GARMENT
Military Cape
CUTTER
155
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
156
SHOULDER CAPE. Draw
B
is
and place the back
a line
seam to touch
the breast
Mark around
line.
the back as at
From B
to
D
is
^ breast.
From
D
to
E
is
^ breast.
Draw
a line from
From
I
From F
to J
to
is I
G
is
to
C
is
A — H — D.
H through E to
I.
inch.
^ inch.
Shape the back from
From A
of an overcoat pattern of the size required, the center
A— C.
at
G
through
H
the length required.
Finish the bottom as represented.
through
E
From G
to J. to J
is
3 inches
more than from A
to C.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
Shoulder Cape
157
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
158
THE SHOULDER CAPE— Continued THE FOREPART Place the forepart of an overcoat pattern of the size required on a sheet of paper and
mark around
it
as per dotted lines.
X to K is 4^ inches, K to L £ breast.
From
From
M —X
is
the breast
line.
or the addition to the breast of a single breasted overcoat.
is
From L
to
M
is
^ breast.
From R
to
S
is
^ inch.
From N
to
t
Q is ^ breast. From N to O is inch. Sweep from O to P, pivoting at Q. From N to P inch. Draw lines
from
O
from P through
M to
U.
1
is
1
Draw
a straight line
From
U
Draw
a line
rounding
it
From
V
X
to
to
is 1
from
| inch
From S
Y T
Q
and from P to Q.
inch.
V
to
M.
Shape the shoulder from S
O, and the
side
on the back
part.
to
over M. is
is 1
2 inches.
From Z
to
W
is
the same.
inch.
O and from P to V is the same from V to W, pivoting at T.
From S Sweep
to
to
to
Finish as represented.
as
from
G
to J
from P to Y.
THE AMERICAN
GARMENT CUTTER
The Shoulder Cape
159
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE
160
FEW REMARKS ABOUT MAKING
A
The Canvas.
—The canvas and
COATS.
hair cloth should always be cut
on the
bias.
SACK COATS Sack Coats.
— In sewing up
the side seams hold the back easy over the blade, straight
below the waist, and a
to about 3 inches
The Shoulders.— The to the shoulder point
trifle
short over the hip.
may
front shoulder
be slightly stretched from the middle of
and the back held easy over the same
parts, but
never stretch
it,
for a
it
stout person.
The Edges.
— Always dip the stay tape
ing stay tape on the front edge, hold that the roundness of the breast
For
straight.
which
is
is
it
in
pressed
in to
In
all
straight front coats,
Sleeves.
such
as
at
down
hold them even.
the upper sleeve, keep
little
When
Before basting
in
so
becomes
they are straight.
inches;
from there
short to about 3 inches from the bottom, and from there
sewing up the back seam, begin also on top, and basting on
them both even
the upper sleeve easy, and from there
in the
bastin,
the top, and, basting on
the upper sleeve, keep both upper and under sleeves ev.en for about 3
hold the upper sleeve a
When
over coats, double breasted in until
— In sewing up the front seams always begin
down
it.
front edge
over the most prominent rounding,
must be worked
sacks, or straight front sacks, the front edges
work the
the middle of the front and the edge
a stout person, hold the stay tape short
over the waist.
The
water and press before using
short over the breast, and
to the elbow, over the roundness of the
down
elbow hold
even.
the sleeves straighten out the armscye, and take a linen thread, draw-
back part of the armscye from the shoulder seam to about ii inches below the side
seam, and press the fullness away so as to leave a pocket over the blade bone.
When •
basting in the sleeve, begin with the right one and placing the seam of the sleeve
to the nick of the full
back hold
it
even to about
I
inch beyond the shoulder seam, from there on
the sleeve in until the front nick of the sleeve reaches the nick of the front; from there
hold the sleeve even until you reach the part of the armscye that thread and
full
the under sleeve in over
The Collar.
person needs stand.
— Collars are to
A concave
slim persons. a
lie
is
drawn
in
with the linen
it.
put
in
easy
in
the hollow of the gorge for normal or
shoulder needs a longer collar than a normal shoulder.
shorter collar than a normal person.
A
stout
In either case, don't stretch the collar
HE
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
161
FROCKS In basting the side body to the front, always begin and keep them even at the armscye side body a little short at the waist.
and hold the
THE
SKIRT.
After the side seam and fish are sewed and pressed ipen, baste a piece of stay tape to the bottom, or the waist seam of the side body, so as to prevent it from stretching, after which baste the skirt on, beginning at the side, hold the skirt and side body even to the side seam; from there on for about 4 inches hold the skirt full, and from there on even to the front. In sewing the back to the side body, begin at the armscye and keep both back and side body even to about 4 inches from the waist; from there down full the back in about \ or § inch; don't stretch the side body until after the hack is sewed on to it, and then only just enough i
to
make
the hack
seam
straight.
Shrink
in the side
body
half way.
THE PLEATS. inch or a seam back from the to put a baste in the skirt in until the pleat is straight, press it open as were a seam. Pull the baste out audit is ready to be joined to the back. The shoulder, collar and sleeves are the same as in the sack coats. In double breasted frocks or dress coats all the seams are joined the same as the single
The proper way to make the pleats mark stitch, and press the roundness of if it
breasted coats, except that the rever needs but little fullness at the waist.
is
is
J
held short over the breast and the bell shape skirt
VESTS. All vests cut by this system need no collar stand, as the stand is cut on the vest. the front edges are to be made straight with the stay tape, i. e., they are to be worked in until the edge is straight and the fullness pressed in to the middle of the
The Edges.— All
front.
—
The Shoulders. The shoulders ought to be stretched slightly and the back held full The collar, if there be one. should be held easy to about 3 inches from the over them. shoulder and from there held short to about 2 inches from the front edge. Double breasted vests, with or without collar, or dress vests with low openings should have stay tape laid around the opening and held short so as to prevent the edge sticking away from the shirt front. Double breasted vests, and double breasted coats must have more breast worked in them than single breasted vests or coats.
TROUSERS. Avoid stretching trousers, except the inseam of the back part from the knee to the Any stretching on the forepart is sure to spoil them. Let the crotch, and that only \ inch. hold notches come together evenly; hold the forepart easy over the knee and the back part easv over the calf. Peg top trousers should have the roundness from over the hip pressed in to the back. Waist bands Let the fore part be held easy over the back part from the hip to the knee. waist and even from should be held a little short 'over the fore part, easy in hollow of the there back. The right fly should be held easy done by shrinking. Do not stretch.
,
in
the hollow of the crotch.
Let
all
.
.
the shaping be
INDEX Introduction
3
Preface
5
The Measurement of the Human Body How to Measure Vest Measurements Trousers Measurements The Square
'.
lfi
Single Breasted Sack Coat
18
Actual Measurements Will Show Figure Three Button Sack Straight Front Sack— Straight Back Four Button Military Sack With or Without Exaggerated Shoulder How to Cut a Concave Shoulder Three Button Double Breasted Sack Four Button Sack (For Stout Figure) Four Button Sack (For Corpulent Fiuure) Three Button Cutaway Frock One Button Cutaway Frock English Walking Coat Three Button Frock (For Stout Figure) Three Button Frock (For Corpulent Figure) Single Breasted Frock (Straight Front) Three Button Double Breasted Frock Three Button Double Breasted Frock (For Stout Figure) Three Button Double Breasted Frock (For Corpulent Figure) Tuxedo Coat Tuxedo Coat (Peaked Lapel) Full Dress Coat (Peaked Lapel) Full Dress Coat (Shawl 'oi.i.ari A Few Words in Regard to Waist Suppression Full Breast— Flat Back 'iiestereield Overcoat Top Coat Full Box Ivekcoat Inverness Double Breasted Ulster Single Breasted Frock Overcoat Double Breasted Frock Overcoat Single Breasted Paletot Single Breasted Paddock Double Breasted Paddock Measuring a Hunchback Straight Front Sack for Hunchback Cassock Coat The Sleeve Half and Half Sleeve Sleeve for Box Overcoat Single Breasted Vest (No Collar) Single Breasted Vest with Notch Collar Single Br east el Vest, Notch Collar (For Stout Figure) !re st ei Vest, Notch Collar (For Corpulent Figure) Full Dress Vest (Shawl Collar) Double Breasted Full Dress Vest (Shawl Collar) ile Breasted Vest (No Collar) Double Breasted Vest, (Peaked Lapel) Clerical Vest (Buttoned on Side) '.
<
<
i
\
I
i
i
i
:i;s
Peg Top Trousers Spring Bottom Trousers Trousers for Corpulent Figure Trousers for Bow-Legged Person Trousers for Knock-Kneed Person Narrow Falls Broad Falls Riding Breeches with Extension ib Bicycle Trousers Military ii
er
<
i
'ape 'ate
A Feu Remarks About Making Coats
7 8 14 16
2fi
36 38 40 42 44 46 4S 52 54 56 5S 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 76 74 78 so 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 100 102
104 106 108 110 112 114 116 118 120 124 126 12S 130 132 134 136 138 140 142 144 Hi; 14S 149 150 152 154 156 160
:
Cable BJS>rc8ec«:
WM. Telephone
P. AHNELT, PRES. TREAB. CHAS. W. NELSON, 1ST vice-phes.
37^ QRAMERCY [
<.
WM. O. FREYER, 2ND vice-PRES. LEON LEWIN, SECRETARY
flMibliebers ot
AMERICAN GENTLEMAN Men's Fashions.
EDITION DE LUXE
Antmran
ifeljinn
(Sin.
[INCORPORATED]
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ESTABLISHED
18QO
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LES PARISIENNES The Acknowledged Authority on "Tailor Made" Styles $20.00 A YEAR
Designers and
AMERICAN CLOAK ALBUM Cloaks, Suits, Etc. $50.00 A YEAR
Publishers of
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Designs Yearly $25.00 A YEAR
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PLETE
CLOTH BOU
$10.1
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AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER For Furriers OTH BOUND, COMPLETE
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the
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f
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