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THE

ARCHETYPAL CONSUMMATION: A SYSTEM OF

GARMENT DRAFTING, Founded upon Practical Experience.

YOUNG & RATHVON,

COIiUMBIA, PA. 184S.

II'

EiitereJ according to Act of Congress, in the year

18'I5,

YOUNG & RATIIVON, ill

llie

Office of the

Clerk of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

Prinieil by J. J. Gosslfr,

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PREFACE, it is

with the utmost diffidence in

this

age of improvement,

wlien almost every day gives rise to something arts

and sciences, that the authors of

ty of presenting to

tlieir

this

nevv^ in the

take the liber-

brethren of the trade in general, the

results of tlieir investigations, researches,

in the science of

work

garment cutting.

and practical labors

Nevertheless, after having

given the subject that due amount of reflection which quires,

and resting under

a (irm conviction that

much

re-

yet re-

mains undeveloped connected with our beautiful science, they

now

appear before the public with the assurance of giving

satisfaction whei'e its principles are strictly

adhered

to,

full

a pro-

attention given, and a fair trial made.

In presenting this work the authors do not aspire to an entire originality in all its details

they merely present

as a

which they have arrived after a combined experience of twenty years in the art and science of garment cutting. One important feature, however, they do claim as entirely original, inasmuch as it differs from any series of practical results, at

thing extant upon the subject, and the superstructure

Pitch.

It is this that

eratum with the

built,

the foundation on

namely

always has been and

trade.

after the shoulder

been taken with

mainly

It has

the

which

Shoulder

the great desid-

been found in

many cases, that

measures and other prooi measures have

all

imaginable care and correctness, there

has been an utter failure in producing the desired effect in the application thereof, inasmuch as no

could be established without

first

permanent

'starting point'

having the shoulder pitched

to its proper place to suit thp particular

form of the customer,-

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 4V

and it is perfectly obvious to any experienced cutter that the garment may be cut in perfect accordance with the most correct measurement, and yet the result may involve him in disappointment, and frustrate

Another new feature is

obtained, that

which

may

all his

the

adapt

will be detailed in

its

anticipations.

manner itself to

which

the skirt spring

any form of

forepart,

proper place in the body of the

work.

The

authors are aware that the objection of complication

will be brought to bear against their system, and that some-

thing

more simple and with fewer

be more acceptable

to the trade,

many

flatter

and measures would

them

that

it is

themselves

it is,

and that

science of cutting has convinced pie thing that

lines

but a long experience in the not the

siii^

as thera

are almost as great a variety of forms as there are of counte-

more to be depended upon than any general systemâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; nevertheless it may claim nances, therefore practical results are

simplicity as

With tested,

chief merit. its

merits fairly

and in the hope that an impartial and candid fraternity

will give it

its

these remarks, and a desire to have

that consideration

so richly deserves,

which they

the "Archetypal

flatter

themselves

Consummation"

here submitted to the trade by

THE AUTHORS.

add an inch or more

each of your shoulder measures, un-

you should measure your customer over an over coat or hangup. For coats that hutton up close to the neck, after having taken the length of the lappcl, you will place your less

right

hand firmly against the point of its required length, and left hand pass the measure up along the front of

with the

breast to the required height of the neck,

and deduct the over-

plus from the full length of the lappell, and note the hallance in

your book.

Proceed in the same manner for vests and

roundahouts, that are required to be buttoned up close to the neck, and also take a measure around the neck for

width.

its

All other measures, such as sleeve, breast, waist, &c., in the usual mode.

For

vests,

take the breast and waist, where there

measure taken, and refer ure by which to cut

to the

by a

coat-

it.

For pants the most important are cut

graduated scale for the meas-

division of that

the hip measure, as they

measure

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; other measures

in the

usual manner.

For

linen,

bombazine or any other material that requires a

large seam, do not neglect to

ment cut

too tight

hands" than one that

For drafting

coats, in

vision of the first

make

a due allowance, as a gar-

always more liable to remain "on your a

trifle

too large.

every instance you will draft by a

di-

and second shoulder measure.

Both sides of the customer should be measured, and any difference that difference should be divided.

there

^7-s-

-f~~

PLATE II-DRAFT Lay your

OF THE BACK. and the

cloth with the crease towards yoii

grain to run from right to

left

—then draw the line A close

on the edge, and square the line B at bottom. With your lay the measure obtain the distance to E and thence to angle of your square at the junction of D and A and the long arm two inches or more in on E, [as fancy or fashion may direct,] and draw the line C and at the same time square the line D with it. From D to the mark at the bottom of scye [or C on the figure] thence to the hollow of waist [or D on the figure] you will obtain by the measFrom bottom of scye ures you have taken to these points. to F, is an I, from F to G ihere is no permanent distance, Square F, but is subject at all times to taste or fashion. and G, and go out on F a J, and from this point square the I'he width of the back will be governed with F. line by the measure which has been previously taken for that On the line D go out an I, and form part of the garment.

D—

the line I by a sweep or "crooked stick."

be parallel with

F and

The line E

should

the width between the hip buttons

governed by the style of the garment. The line J is governed by the prevailing fashion at the time the garment is After the back is cut out, make a cut, and so also is K. bottom of scye, and where the of waist, hollow the notch at crosses the line I: if the distance from the line F line to D is more than a I make a notch where the 3 is, but if

less,

pay no attention

it.

PLATE IL-DRAFTII. OF THE FOREPART. Draw

the line

A on the

edge of cloth opposite to where B with the bottom-

you have taken ihe back out— square

then lay the lower point of the back side-seam

the an-

—

gle of

and

and the upper point on the Une A, with make a mark, and this will

the back-seam towards you and

Then give you the length of side-seam for the forepart. F of the back, opposite the mark for top of side-

lay line

seam, with the back-seam along the line A, and make a mark where you have notched the back at bottom of scye,

and from these two marks square the lines Go out on the line C a 3, and square E from the line

to the

and

D— from D on

distance having that is the Square the line F from E line however not permanently fixed at that

small star

character on the square. at the star

— the F

merely given here as a guide for the new beginner. Go out on the line C from E a I and square the go down on G a 2 and make a mark— go in line G from from the line G on C an I and make a mark— draw the line point, but

C—

from the marks on G and C up through K and F. This shoulder its proper pitch the variations of

line gives the

be noticed at the end of this article. Go in on from the base of E an J, and mark it. From F go down on the line II an I, and make a mark, lay the angle point of your square on the line F and the outer

which

will

the line

to strike the marks on H and D, and along the short arm draw the line X the line X is also governed more or less by the shoulder measures and Go out from front of scye on is merely given as a guide. line C a i for front of the breast, and as much more or less as your breast measure, fashion, or the peculiar style of the coat shall dictate. Go up on E from Dai, and lay the angle of your square at the mark with the short arm towards you and the outer edge of the long arm at the I mark on D, and draw the line K this line has also no permanent position- but is governed more or less by the

edge of the long arm

—

FLATii^

III.

prevailing customs of the day.

After all these lines have been obtained lay your back with the upper point of the side-seam on the line C, the bottom of the back-seam at the angle of A and B, and the notch (where crosses I on the back,) on the line A: lay the other back along the line X with the one point of the top on F and the other on H form the front of scye as per draft then apply the proof measures as shown on Plate III, draft I, as follows From A around in front of scye to A; if it should be too long or too short, move the upper back to suit, always

keeping on the

line

next from

or blade meas-

you will alter to suit the measure at blade point, and mark your side-seam so far as the first position will permit then apply the 2nd and 3rd shoulder measures from B to B, and from C to C, and ure, which, should

require

it,

should

require

measures.

in a

alter the J

shoulder point

suit

the

of the waist measure from the line

and make a mark (Plate

as a guide

how

the second position: first position,

II, Draft II,) which will serve draw the back in, in bringing it to before you move your back from the

far to

you

will

form your scye

;

apply the scye mea-

sure and if necessary take some off of the shoulder point: the lower point from the lines the neat scye measure. alter to suit if

necessary

should be an

Apply your ballance measure and :

apply your hip, lappell, breast

and waist measures. The best guide for a well ballanced lappell, is to sweep its length from the socket point A by the waist point of the forepart.

VARIATIONS OF FOREPART. If the 1st shoulder ler

measure should be larger or smalline C from G I on the

than the 2nd, then go in the

with the 1st shoulder measure instead of the 2nd.

The

where the 1st shoulder shows the person to be straight with the head more thrown back, and consequently re-

reason will be obvious

measure

at a glance,

the largest,

On the quires the shoulder to be pitched further back. contrary, if the 1st shoulder measure is the smallest, it shows the person to be somewhat stooped and the head more forward, and therefore requires the shoulder to be pitched forward; if the 3rd shoulder measure be very large in proportion to the others, it shows the person to be high shouldered, and therefore requires the shoulder point to be raised to suit the form if on the contrary it be proportionally small, it indicates low shoulders, and consequently ;

the shoulder point to be sunk. If as has been remarked in the explanations of the back,

the distance from the line

be more than a

you

and place the notches instead lines F and this will back, on the of the top the of as the disbring the gorge as much in front of the line tance from E to D is more than a J: this rarely occurs, however, only where the person is very round shouldered

will

notch

on both

sides,

H H

or very long necked,

when

in either case

highly

For coats that button up apply the neck measure, and the measure in front of breast for heighth of neck as explained in the article on the mode of measure-

necessary.

ment.

All coats that are not wadded in the breast should be pitched a

little

further back in the shoulder,

PLATE IIâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;DRAFT III. OF THE

SKIRT.

Before proceeding to draft you will first obtain the prop? er amount of spring that will be required for the particular

form of the forepart

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;as

ence over the spring of a

the forepart has skirt,

influ-

than any customer can

11 have, whatever his shape

may be. For example down very low (as the

ion favours)

requires less spring than

and vice versa

therefore

of the forepart be thrown

the front

present fash-

cut short in front

your customer

of a straight

form with a prominent chest you will naturally give him a long lappell if on the other hand, his form is stooped and :

chest contracted a contrary course will be pursued and will cut the lappell proportionably short cases

it is

—

you which

in cither of

evident there could be no general spring given to

suit all forms,

and that some practical and

should be established that would adapt

self variable

itself to

mode

every variety

of forepart. First lay your back in a closing position with the forepart,

with the back-seam towards you

—

that

the upper

and lower points of side-seam of back and forepart together then draw a line from the lappell point across the back side up)

;

to the waist point

—

and

then lay the long arm of the square (lower

with the outer edge along t^e back-seam, with the

character V, where the line you have

drawn

crosses the back-

seam, and note the figure or fraction on the short arm of the square that forms a junction with line from lappell to waist point,

and

quired,

this will give

you a proper key

and you will then be ready

to the spring re-

to draft

your

skirt

with

some degree of certainty. Proceed as follows; draw the line A on the edge of cloth, and after having obtained the length re-

make a mark, then lay character V (upmark you have made, with the edge of the long

quired for the skirt

per side) at the

arm

of the square on line

short

arm

A and

strike the angle

on the

of the square that corresponds in number, to the

one you have previously taken on the under forepart and back

were

be parallel or nearly or otherwise

so,

in a closing position

with B;

— the form of

the skirt

side, whilst

the line

the

E should

formed by a curved rule governed by the pre-

12 Trailing

customs of the day: the top of line

ches in from the line A, but

when

about three

in-

the lappell and waist points

are cut long as in the present fashion, the top of the skirt should

be formed

may

represented on the

as is

be taken out of the top of

the cutter, but

sewed

drafts of skirts

skirt, or

the V's

not at the option of

not taken out they require more fullness to

in.

ANOTHER MODE OF DRAFTING A SKIRT

Lay

ihe back and forepart in a closing position, as rep-

resented in the above cut No.

;

let

the back-seam be line

touching the waist and lappell points go out on B a J and square the line C from B line go up on C a J and draw the line D; then square the line E from :

draw the

line

;

the line

A and

go out on

and whatever the difference

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

13 at that distance,

is,

and

will

between the

D and E; note

lines

be the required spring of the

down

skirt.

APPLICATION. A

No. 2 square B on B a 3 and square C go up on C the difference you have obtained as directed in No. 1, and draw In all other respects form the skirt as directthe line D. ed in another part of the work on skirts. The same prin-

Draw

line

as represented in the cut

from

ciple

can be applied

;

to the coatee skirt.

PLATE II-DRAFT IV- OF THE SLEEVE. Draw

the line

A on the edge of

measure from sleeve-hand the line

make

mark

the cloth, then apply your

elbow, and from thence up on

the full length of the sleeve, (back included) and

from mark go down a

;

from thence a I

to the base of the line

to the small star,

and

Bj square B with A; then

lay your back on as represented on the plate and obtain the starting point for the line

go up on the line

draw the

line

D; go out on the line from the

to the small starâ&#x201E;˘this will

D from line

to line

E, which

to the

and down on B, and

form a pivot to sweep

half the scye meas-

ure across on B; if you cannot reach the distance with the sweep for the line D, then sweep as much of it as yoti can reach and form the front by your eye, giving

a gentle curve

so as to intersect the curve of the under-sleeve

;

the under-

sleeve should be cut as represented on the draft, taking care

that the line

should not come, or at least very

the line B; the upper sleeve should be sleeve as

and

much

in the front

arm-seam

in order not to require

sleeve should be

hooked

too

drawn as the

much

below

back arm-seam

fullness,

in as represented

little

on the under-

;

the

upper

the general ap-

pearance or shape will be governed by fancy or fashion.

—

REMARKS. As

it is

almost impossible for an author to be as clearly un-

derstood, or to convey as correct an idea of in writing, as he

can by oral teaching

—

what he

intends,

therefore, the forego-

ing will necessarily be intersperced with some imperfections. Nevertheless, by a proper attention on the part of the pupil

mod-

a frequent recurrence to the drafts, and the exercise of a erate share of taste

be enabled

and judgment

knowledge

to obtain a sufficient

convince him of

— a common

intrinsic value,

its

intellect will

ol the

system, to

and of the correctness of

general principles.

its

PLATE

III— DRAFT

OF THE COATEE, OR

II.

BUSINESS SKIRT. You

will obtain the spring for this skirt the same[as descri-

bed for a dress First

draw the

coat,

ing obtained the of skirt

but the application

somewhat different.

A on the edge of the cloth, and after havlength, square the line B from A for the top

line

then measure across on

the distance j^ou require,

including fullness, and strike the angle C, in the same man-

ner that you do the angle

and F, and

in draft 3, plate II,

also the top, front,

and

from the

lines

plaite of skirt as represen-

ted in the draft, or according to the existing [style at cutting.

III—DRAFT

PLATE Draw

line

A on the edge of

the skirt and square the line

square gle

at five

less, as

the base

the

SKIRT. the cloth, obtain the length of

may

lay the angle point of the

line

degrees on the short the case

FROCK OR OVER-

III.

COAT

require

C, and strike

arm ;

the an-

of the square,

the customer

more of an

erect form with prominent buttocks, he will require a higher

FLATI': IV

form— measure across on the the distance required including fullness and lapthe line is an angle which is left to the discre-

angle than one of a contrary line

pells

B :

tion of the cutter,

however,

lest

the

and

is governed more or less by young beginner should not have

style, suffi-

cient faith in his ov^rn taste or judgment, the following

may

be an assistance to him: After having obtained the required distance on line B make a mark, and place where the 3's commence on the long arm of the square to said mark, and strike the angle I on the short arm— this will

you a very tasty frock-skirt spring, and one that may be relied on; in the majority of cases form the top, plaite,

give

—

and bottom of the

skirt as

represented on the draft.

PLATE IV— DRAFT

L OF THE VEST FOREPART.

Draw an

on the edge of the cloth and square B go in on B a 2 and square the line C, and and square the line D then with the length you have the line

bottom

for the

;

taken for the vest, after deducting a

for width of back go out on E a 4— from where the line E strikes the line A, go down a a and square the line F from F go up a J and square the line G go in on the line G from C a I and form the scye on line from where the line E touches go up a J, and from thence draw the line I diagonally through the square formed by the crossings of C, D and F, G form the lines L, K, and the gorge as represented on the draft, or according to at the top,

sweep the

line

;

the particular form of the customer; the lines are for a double breasted vest; the length

the size of the gorge,

a button-up coat

heavy

roll for

M and N

the front and

obtained the same as described for

the line J

which you

will

is to

represent a vest with a

go down on the

line I

from

16 line

the line

;

represents a vest without a

roll.

VARIATIONSIf the customer

stooped or high shouldered, then raise

and pitch the shoulder more forward 'as represented on the draft and if he be large around the waist

the line

;

in proportion to the breast, then the line

drawn

in so

much

should not be

represented, and also the

should be brought more forward

line

bottom, to suit the

at the

particular degree of corpulency.

PLATE IVâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;DRAFT II. OF THE VEST BACK. The

which the go out on B a I and make a mark lay the forepart as represented on the plate and apply the breast and waist measures neat, allowing only as much as the seam and turn in require then take the length from the J on B to the top of the forepart upper point, and sweep the line C go out on C a e: go down on A a 6 and square the line D go out on D a J, and from thence to the I on C, draw a line for the shoulder seam having marked the top and bottom of side-seam, allow as much as you deem sufficient, and form the lines G and F. back

line

be cut

is to

the fold of the material out of

;

squared for the bottom

;

VARIATIONS. The

line E, as in the forepart, for

stooped or prominent

shoulders will require to be raised as represented on draft.

Vests as well as

all

other garments treated of in this

work, are cut by the second shoulder measure. But where the customer is measured for a vest alone, or should he

have no coat on at the time, a simple breast measure may be taken, and the following table consulted, which will

17 give the corresponding shoulder measure to the garment

must be drafted

Breast Measures.

it,

and by which

in all cases.

Corresp'ding Shoulder Meas. 15

15;'

161

23 24 25 26 27 28 29

171

1\\

22^

18 185

19^

201

23J

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

24 245

C5i *

263

27 275 .

28J 291

305

42 43 44 45 46 47

3U 321

33 335

341 351

PLATE IVâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;DRAFT III. OF PANTALOONS. A is the edge of the cloth B is squared for the top go from line B down on A to within an inch or less of the :

full

length of the pants, and square the line

â&#x20AC;˘

go up the

much

you have deducted from D go out on D a J of the hip measure, and also a I of the same measure which you will find on the long arm of the square underwise square the line E from D go in on an imaginary or dotted line O the \ of the waist measure, and form the lines I and H draw the line F about an inch and a half in from the line A at the bottom go in on line according to your measure (say about a 3 of the bottom measure) draw the line G from the 3 on D to the 3 on C, and from the bottom of forepart as per draft lay your forepart on the cloth out of which you intend to cut the hindpart draw the line about an inch or less below the line C of forepart go out on line N 3 of the bottom measure draw the line about an inch outside of line G of the forepart at top and from and, also, the lines the bottom, as represented on draft J and K. length of crotch (as the

full

less as

length) and square the line

;

The above

desire pants with

the line line I,

and

ARIATIONS

for pants with a slash.

a whole

fall,

If,

however, you

or plaited pants, then

let

represent the top, and for the latter omit the if

necessary add some in width at the top yet

something less than and the hindparts something

for gaiter bottoms let the foreparts be

a third wide at the bottom,

more than

wide, and shape them accordingly

pants or those that are shaped the knee and form

Those of strike a

who may

tions to line

for straight

draw a

line at

measure.

prefer Scott's scales will

of hip measure, and

one 24th 3 and and Ward's or Mahaii's scale, may use them, to go sixteen por-

for distance across crotch will require those

the leg,

them accordingly

the craft

for line

who

;

of hip measure, and 62 portions more for

distance across crotch.

FLATi^]

PLATE V-DRAFT Draw the line A on

OF THE SACK,

the crease of

cloth

length of the garment, and sweep the line

the pivot about 3 inches out on line

(BACK.) obtain the

;

it,

making

obtain the length

go in on C about 2 inches and from thence draw the line E, and square the line D go down on E the depth of scye measure and square the line F: go up from F a I and square the line G go out on F a 3 and square from F go out on F an 8 go out on D an 8 go out on C from E the 6 of the neat waist measure and on B the I of the hip measure and form the back scye, and lines I and J as repof waist and angle the

line

[[more or less according to style] :

resented on the draft, or agreeably to the ruling custom of the day.

VARIATIONS. you require a loose sack without a seam in the back then you will omit the line E, and square D, F and G from A, and shrink the back in along the line A at the waist, and stretch J a little opposite the shrinking. If

PLATE Vâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;DRAFT Draw

cloth

A a sufficient distance in from the

the line

give

OF THE FOREPART.

11.

room

for

the bottom of the line

enough

the goods be wide

edge of should

then with your back find the

;

C by the disgo out on C a 3 and square D go up on D an I and square E go out on E a I and square F go down on F a 2 and in on E an | and draw the line G go up on D from C a I and also to star with the corresponding character on the square, and square from the line go in on C from D an I and down on length of skirt and square

tance from

F on your

then square

back:

;

ed in a dress coat

;

and X the same as describapply the back on the lines A and C

and obtain the

lines

X the same as described

and apply the proof measure, and on for dress coat,

with the exception that you will follow the

rections given in the forepart of this coats

and sacks

drawn added

to that

fish

from 2

to 3, 4

measure in some

and even 5 inches should be according to the particu-

cases,

which the garment may be

desired

and

go out on

E from D a

for length if

for a close

;

should be taken out of each forepart as represent2

and

the garment

ed add the necessary quantity outside of

measure

di-

in regard to over-

and, also, the ballance measure should not be

in neat but

lar style in

sack a

;

work

and heighth

as described,

single-breast-

apply the neck

and form

line I

on the contrary you desire a double-breasted sack

then add something more in front of breast and form the line

O, or

you wish, cut the

lappells off as represented

line J agreeably to measure,

bottom according the line

and spring out the

form the

;

skirt at the

garment

to the desired style of the

form

M as represented on the OF THE SACK SLEEVE. draft.

Observe the same direction in drafting the sleeve of sack for

any other

coat, excepting a

on when intended

due alloAvance

drawing

for

as it

be worn over another coat.

PLATE Vâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;DRAFT

III- OF THE CLOAK, OR MANTLE.

Cut the

two equal

cloth into

pieces,

and open

out the full

width with the grains running towards the left, and on the edge towards you draw the line A go up from the bottom ;

the neat length of the cloak and

go up a a

and square the

and square the at

cate

;

line

what over the draft the line

line :

mark

go in on

size or style of the

F two

Aj and four inches shorter

;

from the mark

across the cloth

and on

go irom

garment

inches longer at the line at

than at

^ ;

angle

shall indi13

than at

this will give the

^1 cloak

its

proper length over the shoulder, (which takes up

bout two inches) and in front, which would otherwise droop too much form the gorge or line E as represented on the ;

draft

and take out the gores

marked, which will give the

mantle a better hitch on the shoulders, and cause in

place,

its

Capes

same

it is

not clasped or

for cloaks, surtouts, over-coats,

B an

and from thence

remain

tied.

&c.,may be cut by the go up from length

with the following variations

draft,

to line

even when

go in on

ÂŤ,

and on

give the cape any fullness you desire and form the

;

gorge accordingly.

In drafting a cloak as in a sack you will draft by the second shoulder measure takeh loose, or an inch added to the neat

measure

you the

;

take a gorge measure and apply

precise

amount

it,

which

will give

be taken out at the gores.

CONCLUSION. The

authors cannot dismiss the subject without

few general remarks sity of a

in conclusion,

making a

on the indispensible neces-

proper exercise of taste and judgment in making as

well as in drafting and cutting garments. If a coat even should

be well and

'tastily' cut, itoften

ence or want of a sufficient of the maker, that the

happens through the inexperi-

artistical

garment

knowledge on the part

totally spoiled

;

and the ve-

ry effect for which the cutter so long and so laboriously ed, has

been utterly destroyed, and himself subjected

most intense disappointment, and wounded

toil-

to the

sensibility.

old gentleman of the trade in the city of Baltimore used

remark

:â&#x20AC;&#x201D;"When

they make

me me

look at

laugh, but

are brought in

made

up,

not the least doubt but that

weep over such

Even

coats after they are cut out,

when they

cry," and there

he had just cause broad cloth.

bad cut coat

wanton spoliation of be improved very

may

much

appearance by a

to say " the coat

'tasty'

was cut

maker, and

it is

no excuse

for

made

it him coat making a and cutting one, because are buzzard," up a two different things, for there are certain effects that are produced in making alone, which no cutting can reach and, therefore, it is of the first importance that the maker should

a buzzard, therefore

;

have a thorough knowledge

department of the business,

ot his

may

be the better enabled to understand fully the tentions of his " Crook," which in the end will certainly

that he

dound

own

to his

best interests.

credit

This

and will ultimately advance his

result can only be brought about

in-

re-

own

quiring apprentices to the business to serve a reasonable length of time to dissipated

which would

it,

As we remarked that

phrase

prevent in a great measure the

in our preface Tailoring

generally

it is

also

and licentious habits so prevalent among our trade.

"cracked up

and, therefore, those

;)

who

be"

not the easy thing

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

(to use a

adopt

vulgar

as their pro-

and avocation, should be actuated by the proper and be ambitious to excel in it, as it is one that has

fession spirit,

decided advantages over

many

others

;

moreover, the bus-

becoming every day more complicated, and it would seem necessarily so, as it is the only means by which the '* rag-shops" that are craft can compete with the host of springing up like mushrooms, and exercise a ruinous influence on the trade, throughout the length and breadth of

uiess

our land.

od than is

apprentice should be taken for a less peri-

five years,

but in

absolutely necessary.

many

instances a longer period

This period

comparatively a

short one, in connection with a man's lifetime, or the influence

When

calculated to have over

first

goes to the trade, he

him is

in future years.

helpless as a

and therefore it requires he can offer the least before sometimes years months and

child just

emerged

into existence,

â&#x20AC;˘

compensation to his mastei' for the pains and anxieties and morlifications he has incurred on his account. And when at

become free, he can "cast his bark upon Ocean" wuh some kind of confidence, and with the as-

length he does

the

surance that he will not "strike a bar and bilge" the very " port" he attempts to "enter." Many young men

first

come out of

their apprenticeships with scarcely

sufficient to construct a

wagon

knowledge

cover, and of course most

egregiously ignorant of the business, and yet their employers

manner, compelled to give them employment, be. pursue a different course would be to reflect upon themselves and upon all the work they had previously made; and, therefore, in a sort of charity to the feelings of anothare, in a

cause

er, these

things are continued at the daily sacrifice and

laceration of your own.

hand it often hapand persevering boy is put under a stupid, dissipated and worthless master in such a case we would say "break the bonds that bind two unwilling hearts together," for it is betterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; nay the best thing that can be done for both master and man. pens that an active,

the other

intelligent

;

These things adhered millenium

in the

many

evils will be obviated, a

science of Tailoring will have

assume that rank in society was by nature and "Nature's God" intended.

ced, and our trade it

Hoping

that the foregoing hints

may

commenfor

which

be taken in that

spirit

of kindness and good intention by which alone they

were

dictated,

and with a

lively interest in the welfare of

the legitimate trade in general, scribe ourselves

we very

respectfully sub-

your fellow tradesmen and

Humble

Servants,

THE AUTHORS.

TERMS The

price of the System, including books,

square, level, and full instructions in drafting, will in all cases

Persons sonal

For book and

all

drafts,

YOUNG,

8 00

Columbia, or

RATH VON,

cases Post-Paid.

8 D

full

8 00

draft alone (without square,)

For book wuhout

S. S.

For square alone,

-SIOOO

be furnished the

Address B.

a distance without requiring per-

instruction, will

system

3 2.6

Marietta, Pa.

3 00 5 00

:^'':'^M'-\'^b'</ -'S. .^""V. -O^

,6"

•^o.

•-