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CRAWFORB'i ilBT^EM ON THE

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3

The Manner

which

in

to take the

System.

for the Present Measure

Make

a

round (he

ovei- the vest, for

Measures

Frock, Dress, or Body Coat

also

;

Undersacks.

mark at socket bone, make another mark about two and one -half inches Place a neck from socket bone, then find natural waist, and make a mark.

yard-stick against the back, resting on the most prominent parts of right

common

shoulder blade and hip, the top of yard-stick extending up to neck. ruler, ascertain

measure we

how many

inches from the yard-stick in to mark at side of neck.

how many

find

how many

inches the arm advances forward

from the

This measure should bo taken to where the arm joins the body.

yard-stick.

termed incline of arm.

tape and measure from

mark

full

Take shoulder measure from mark socket bone.

neck over

full

part of blade to natural waist,

Then take measure of armscye. socket bone, down under the arm and back

length of coat. at

Measure length of sleeve the same as

is

first

fingers of left

hand, and placing under the arm, and ascertain the length required at hand.

measure the circumference of breast and waist.

to

generally done in measui'ing leg

seam of pantaloons, by placing the end of the tape between the two

way

This

Leaving the yard-stick and ruler aside, take the

at side of

fashionable length of waist, and

correct

This

inches of hollow of waist.

the yard-stick in a horizontal position, resting on the most prominent parts

of both shoulder blades, and find

is

Then

will term incline of neck.

Then place

measure

Then, with the

This mode of measuring

is

a

Then

new and

of finding the shape, whether stooping over or very erect.

XJ^DERSA.CK. Measures

for the

Undersack are taken the same as

of fashionable length of waist,

Measures a coat on.

for

which

is

for the

Frock, with the exception

not taken.

Overcoat should be taken the same as

for

under coat, only taken with

5

To Draft the Frock, Dress, or Body Coat, as

Commence by drawing

line

and draw top

of back,

Diagram A.

in

line

measure of incline of neck, scale A, at A, and go down line of back breast measure.

breast,

of

arm

and continue on top

scale C, at C,

In case of a very erect form, point

as in diagram B, and for a very round shoulder

Go each

side of centre line to

A

I to J, scale G, from

form armscye.

to

K,

Then apply

G

scale G,

and

it

E

will reach

draw a

scale

E, scale

3, 4,

to line L, around

bottom of armscye, up

from

three inches to shoulder measure for

round bottom of armscye

to

diagram

E

and point

— — a and E

equal distances as in diagram

and one inch from

D

to

from

L

around the armscye to J, one half to

M,

the tape from

A

the other half of to

K, and from

A, and ascertain how many inches.

E

equal distances to

If the distance aforesaid

a.

II to I, scale G.

Add

making up.

If the distance from A to K, and A, be more than the shoulder measure with three

inches added, lower top of back and point a

line,

diagram

from centre of armscye to G, and

Apply

to

above the tou

line

the tape from line

armscye measure, with one-half inch added.

E

to

will not reach top line as in

II, scale 6, breast,

the armscye measure with one-half inch added, and from line L

from

D,

place incline of neck scale E, on line of bottom of armscye, at F, and go up to

E, scale 5, breast.

E

to C, scale

and square lines as in diagram.

Then

C.

line to

Place incline of arm scale D, at D, and come back on top line

breast.

B, scale 1,

to

Place incline of arm scale B, at A, and go across top line

Place incline

2, breast.

Place

light angle.

at

E

—— c

c

it will

correspond as in

be not enough, raise top of back,

and

c.

P, scale 6, twice, and form gorge.

Go from E

to

0, scale 6,

The height of gorge

is

not

confined to point P, except on military garments.

Erom A,

or top of back, to Q, measure of natural waist,

and

to

R, fashionable waist.

S is the same distance from Q, as Q is from B. From Q to T is regulated by fashion.

From T to U, measure of hollow of waist. Form side seam of back and sidebody, leaving

sidebody one-fourth

line from

X,

of an

bottom of sidebody

to

inch longer than the back for

W.

For spring of

skirt,

waist

seam.

Draw

from line of top of skirt,

half the measure of hollow of waist, and form as in diagram.

a to

7

DIAGRAM

B.

TO FIT THE VERY ERECT FORM. Proceed the same as

makes

in

a shorter distance

diagram A.

between

A

The measure of

incline of neck being smaller,

and B, and longer between

shoulder point go up above the top line, leaving length enough breast.

The width of back

incline of

arm

is

smaller,

is

F and to

E, letting front

follow the round of

narrower than that of diagram A, for the reason that the

making

a

narrower back, and wide fore part.

If desired to

make the waist seam curved, take off top of skirt at H, and add the same on fore part.

But if desired to make a full skirt, let the skirt and fore part lap each other at II. The move the lap

in front, the

more drapery there

will be at the

bottom of

skirt.

8

DIAGRAM

C.

TO FIT THE STOOPING FORM. The from F

incline of neck being large, to

E

short, point

E being below

makes the back wide and the shoulder point.

makes the back long from

fore

the top line.

part narrow,

at

A

to B, and the distance The incline of arm being large,

the same

time advancing front

9 DIAGRAM

THE There

is

RP U L

C

D.

N

K

FORM.

T

one very important point in drafting a coat, and that

front shouhler point in (he right phice.

D

and

4, in diagrnni

line.

A

sure

way

the half of circumference ot breast one inch, go from

two inches, or whatever

this rule will give.

E

to

A

E

to

1

A

1-2 inches, add 1 inch,

and from

1

B

1-2 to

to

C

19 1-2, making 21 1 inch.

But

if

point

amount should exceed

one inch, or one and one-

;

20

inehe-;,

f'-om

and the hollow

21 leaves

1

;

these measures combined be

than the breast, let the front shoulder point remain at E, nnd take fore part.

find this

shoulder needs

If half the circumference of breast

be 20 inches, and half the circumference of waist be 19 1-2 waist

in getting the

of doing this is to add the measure

of hollow of waist to half the circumference of waist, and if the

half, or

A,

But where the wai<t increases, the

for a well proportioned fignre.

throwing back from E, on top

Scales

is

V

of

go from smaller

out at bottom of

lO DIAGRAM

E. This change

Represents the clir.nges made for a long and short neck.

shouMer measure

b, at top of

back, and b at front shoulder point

is

is

made by

the

the height found

by the divisions on the square.

Apply to

the ta[ c from b to b, across top of back,

and from b

L, round bottom of arinsize, back to b at top of back,

inches.

Now

measures.

add 3 inches

neck.

But

3 inches added

points at a

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

a

shoulder

measure

measure of draft be 1 inch

If the

ing top of back at lono-

to

c

and

if the

take

and

a.

c,

measure of draft be

off

1

front shoulder point

and ascertain how many

making up, and compare both add 1-2 inch to top of back, mak-

for

short,

and also 1-2 inch to

at

c front

shoulder point.

This

fits

the

inch more than shoulder measure, with

1-2 inch at top of back and front shoulder point, making these

Thus by lengthening or shortening the back and

amount, the balance remains the same.

front an equal

11

DIAGRAM

F.

THE SLEEVE. Go from A

to

B, scale G, measure of armscyc from

half of armscye from

from

A

to B,

from C

on the shoulder

one inch.

A

to J, one-fourth

to II one-half of

to be built

M is half the

(tf

armscye from

armscye.

up from C

distance from

to

D.

K

B

to

from

G

to

C, the same from

to

F,

I to II, one-half the distance to L, the

same amount

jNIeasure of length of sleeve from

G.

A

as left

D

to

E,

13

DIAGRAM

G.

THE SACK COAT. To

draft the

Sack Coat proceed the same as in diagram A, as

far as line

on bottom

of armscye, the only difference between a Sack and Frock Coat being from line on bot-

tom of armscye

to the

bottom of coat, the upper part of both garments being exactly

Go from B

alike

B

is

the natural waist.

from B

to

E

one-fourth of waist, from

E

to

threo-(|uarters of an inch, and strike a line as in diagram.

to

C

the same distance as

F measure of hollow of from F to H for spring

B

is

from A; go

waist, from

G

to

H

of skirt," and form

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