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CRAWFORB'i ilBT^EM ON THE
Science
and Art OF-
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3
The Manner
which
in
to take the
System.
for the Present Measure
Make
a
round (he
ovei- the vest, for
Measures
Frock, Dress, or Body Coat
also
;
Undersacks.
mark at socket bone, make another mark about two and one -half inches Place a neck from socket bone, then find natural waist, and make a mark.
yard-stick against the back, resting on the most prominent parts of right
common
shoulder blade and hip, the top of yard-stick extending up to neck. ruler, ascertain
measure we
how many
inches from the yard-stick in to mark at side of neck.
how many
find
how many
inches the arm advances forward
from the
This measure should bo taken to where the arm joins the body.
yard-stick.
termed incline of arm.
tape and measure from
mark
full
Take shoulder measure from mark socket bone.
neck over
full
part of blade to natural waist,
Then take measure of armscye. socket bone, down under the arm and back
length of coat. at
Measure length of sleeve the same as
is
first
fingers of left
hand, and placing under the arm, and ascertain the length required at hand.
measure the circumference of breast and waist.
to
generally done in measui'ing leg
seam of pantaloons, by placing the end of the tape between the two
way
This
Leaving the yard-stick and ruler aside, take the
at side of
fashionable length of waist, and
correct
This
inches of hollow of waist.
the yard-stick in a horizontal position, resting on the most prominent parts
of both shoulder blades, and find
is
Then
will term incline of neck.
Then place
measure
Then, with the
This mode of measuring
is
a
Then
new and
of finding the shape, whether stooping over or very erect.
XJ^DERSA.CK. Measures
for the
Undersack are taken the same as
of fashionable length of waist,
Measures a coat on.
for
which
is
for the
Frock, with the exception
not taken.
Overcoat should be taken the same as
for
under coat, only taken with
5
To Draft the Frock, Dress, or Body Coat, as
Commence by drawing
line
and draw top
of back,
Diagram A.
in
line
measure of incline of neck, scale A, at A, and go down line of back breast measure.
breast,
of
arm
and continue on top
scale C, at C,
In case of a very erect form, point
as in diagram B, and for a very round shoulder
Go each
side of centre line to
A
I to J, scale G, from
form armscye.
to
K,
Then apply
G
scale G,
and
it
E
will reach
draw a
scale
E, scale
3, 4,
to line L, around
bottom of armscye, up
from
three inches to shoulder measure for
round bottom of armscye
to
diagram
E
and point
— — a and E
equal distances as in diagram
and one inch from
D
to
from
L
around the armscye to J, one half to
M,
the tape from
A
the other half of to
K, and from
A, and ascertain how many inches.
E
equal distances to
If the distance aforesaid
a.
II to I, scale G.
Add
making up. If the distance from A to K, and A, be more than the shoulder measure with three
inches added, lower top of back and point a
line,
diagram
from centre of armscye to G, and
Apply
to
above the tou
line
the tape from line
armscye measure, with one-half inch added.
E
to
will not reach top line as in
II, scale 6, breast,
the armscye measure with one-half inch added, and from line L
from
D,
place incline of neck scale E, on line of bottom of armscye, at F, and go up to
E, scale 5, breast.
E
to C, scale
and square lines as in diagram.
Then
C.
line to
Place incline of arm scale D, at D, and come back on top line
breast.
B, scale 1,
to
Place incline of arm scale B, at A, and go across top line
Place incline
2, breast.
Place
light angle.
at
E
—— c
c
it will
correspond as in
be not enough, raise top of back,
and
c.
P, scale 6, twice, and form gorge.
Go from E
to
0, scale 6,
The height of gorge
is
not
confined to point P, except on military garments.
Erom A,
or top of back, to Q, measure of natural waist,
and
to
R, fashionable waist.
S is the same distance from Q, as Q is from B. From Q to T is regulated by fashion. From T to U, measure of hollow of waist. Form side seam of back and sidebody, leaving
sidebody one-fourth
line from
X,
of an
bottom of sidebody
to
inch longer than the back for
W.
For spring of
skirt,
waist
seam.
Draw
from line of top of skirt,
half the measure of hollow of waist, and form as in diagram.
a to
7
DIAGRAM
B.
TO FIT THE VERY ERECT FORM. Proceed the same as
makes
in
a shorter distance
diagram A.
between
A
The measure of
incline of neck being smaller,
and B, and longer between
shoulder point go up above the top line, leaving length enough breast.
The width of back
incline of
arm
is
smaller,
is
F and to
E, letting front
follow the round of
narrower than that of diagram A, for the reason that the
making
a
narrower back, and wide fore part.
If desired to
make the waist seam curved, take off top of skirt at H, and add the same on fore part. But if desired to make a full skirt, let the skirt and fore part lap each other at II. The move the lap
in front, the
more drapery there
will be at the
bottom of
skirt.
8
DIAGRAM
C.
TO FIT THE STOOPING FORM. The from F
incline of neck being large, to
E
short, point
E being below
makes the back wide and the shoulder point.
makes the back long from
fore
the top line.
part narrow,
at
A
to B, and the distance The incline of arm being large,
the same
time advancing front
9 DIAGRAM
THE There
is
RP U L
C
D.
N
K
FORM.
T
one very important point in drafting a coat, and that
front shouhler point in (he right phice.
D
and
4, in diagrnni
line.
A
sure
way
the half of circumference ot breast one inch, go from
two inches, or whatever
this rule will give.
E
to
A
E
to
1
A
1-2 inches, add 1 inch,
and from
1
B
1-2 to
to
C
19 1-2, making 21 1 inch.
But
if
point
amount should exceed
one inch, or one and one-
;
20
inehe-;,
f'-om
and the hollow
21 leaves
1
;
these measures combined be
than the breast, let the front shoulder point remain at E, nnd take fore part.
find this
shoulder needs
If half the circumference of breast
be 20 inches, and half the circumference of waist be 19 1-2 waist
in getting the
of doing this is to add the measure
of hollow of waist to half the circumference of waist, and if the
half, or
A,
But where the wai<t increases, the
for a well proportioned fignre.
throwing back from E, on top
Scales
is
V
of
go from smaller
out at bottom of
lO DIAGRAM
E. This change
Represents the clir.nges made for a long and short neck.
shouMer measure
b, at top of
back, and b at front shoulder point
is
is
made by
the
the height found
by the divisions on the square.
Apply to
the ta[ c from b to b, across top of back,
and from b
L, round bottom of arinsize, back to b at top of back,
inches.
Now
measures.
add 3 inches
neck.
But
3 inches added
points at a
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
a
shoulder
measure
measure of draft be 1 inch
If the
ing top of back at lono-
to
c
and
if the
take
and
a.
c,
measure of draft be
off
1
front shoulder point
and ascertain how many
making up, and compare both add 1-2 inch to top of back, mak-
for
short,
and also 1-2 inch to
at
c front
shoulder point.
This
fits
the
inch more than shoulder measure, with
1-2 inch at top of back and front shoulder point, making these
Thus by lengthening or shortening the back and
amount, the balance remains the same.
front an equal
11
DIAGRAM
F.
THE SLEEVE. Go from A
to
B, scale G, measure of armscyc from
half of armscye from
from
A
to B,
from C
on the shoulder
one inch.
A
to J, one-fourth
to II one-half of
to be built
M is half the
(tf
armscye from
armscye.
up from C
distance from
to
D.
K
B
to
from
G
to
C, the same from
to
F,
I to II, one-half the distance to L, the
same amount
jNIeasure of length of sleeve from
G.
A
as left
D
to
E,
13
DIAGRAM
G.
THE SACK COAT. To
draft the
Sack Coat proceed the same as in diagram A, as
far as line
on bottom
of armscye, the only difference between a Sack and Frock Coat being from line on bot-
tom of armscye
to the
bottom of coat, the upper part of both garments being exactly
Go from B
alike
B
is
the natural waist.
from B
to
E
one-fourth of waist, from
E
to
threo-(|uarters of an inch, and strike a line as in diagram.
to
C
the same distance as
F measure of hollow of from F to H for spring
B
is
from A; go
waist, from
G
to
H
of skirt," and form
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