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THE
DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK
GUIPURE D'ART.
macram£
MODERN
POINT.
DEDICATED TO
H.R.H.
PRINCESS
MARCHIONESS OF LORNE.
LOUISE.
THE
DimiOIlJiW OF
I^EEDIiEtflO^I^,
ENCYCLOPEDIA OE AETISTIC, PLAIN, AND EANCY NEEDLEWORK, DEALING FULLY WITH THE DETAILS OF ALL THE STITCHES EMPLOYED, THE METHOD OF WOEKING. THE MATERIALS USED, THE MEANING OF TECHNICAL TEEMS, AND, WHERE NECESSARY, TRACING THE ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF THE VARIOUS WORKS DESCRIBED.
ILLUSTRATED WITH UPWARDS OF
WOOD ENGRAVINGS,
1200
AND
COLOURED PLATES. PLAIN SEWING, TEXTILES, DRESSMAKING, APPLIANCES, AND TERMS,
By Aitthor of "Side Nursiiin at
S.
E.
CAULEEILD,
a.
Some," "Desmond," "Avencle," and Papers on Needlework in "TIte Queen," "Girl's Own Paper," "Cassell's Domestic Dictionary,"
tC-c.
CHURCH EMBROIDERY, LACE, AND ORNAMENTAL NEEDLEWORK,
By
blanche
AiUhoi- of ''Church Festival Decorations,"
SAWAED,
C.
and Papers on Fancy and Art Work '^Girl's
Division
Own
1 1 1
Paper,"
.— E
in
"The Bazaar,"
''Artistic
Amusementu,"
tfcc.
m b to
Kn
i
.
SECOND EDITION. LONDON: A.
W.
COWAN,
30 AKD 31,
NEW BEIDGE
STREET.
LUDGATE CIRCUS.
LONDON: PRINTED BY
A.
BRADLEY,
170,
'^/?.^'?-^Y
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. and
it is sometimes vavied in tlio manuoi- illustrated in
where
Fig. 376,
it fills
in with int. i-ia.va sdtri,,.;
f^i.le
of the leaf, of -which the other is
worked
outline
is
in
Back
of the leaf in
stitch
Raised Satin Stitoh
:
one stitch wonld fill between every stitch. For the next row, fill in these spaces with a Satin Stitch, and carry each the
in the first row.
in
is
Relief
Embroidery executed with it in combination with other Embroi-
space
beyond the ones made
horizontal hues of
Satin Stitch over this padding. The handsomest manner of using
To work Work a row of Satin Stiich, and
miss
Work
veins.
the
centre vein in a series of Eyelet-holes.
Back Stitches, and pad
rows of large
the left hand with perpendicular runnings, giving the greatest height near the centre
Stitch, the
Overcast, and
193
dery
This
Stitches.
consists
in
Embroidering detached pieces of material, and attaching these to the main part of the work, so that they stand out and above the flat
Flat Satin, OvEnCAST, Eyelet, and Back Stitcues.
Fi<
Fill in the spaces loft in the second
row with a third row of stitches, carried beyond as before, and work in this manner until the leaf is filled in. Another variety of Satin Stitch is made by working a long and a short Satin Stitch alternately. This is vised for working small rose lea\'es, or any leaves that are
Embroidery.
EA13ED Satin, Back, and Overcast Stitches,
Fic. 379.
of
a
Fig. 380
Bluebell
so
is
a design
when
worked,
and the Details A and B (Pigs. 381, 382) show the manner of execution, which consists of embroidering the material, and sewing over that an extra piece of work. To work Trace the outfinished,
:
slightly ii-regular in outline.
Raised Satin Stitch, also known as Point Plumetis and French Plumetis, is more difficult of execution than flat It is worked over a padded foundation, thus Trace the outline of the design, run it round with a thread, and till in the parts to be raised with a padding of run threads. ,!Run these so that they a^e thick and solid in the centre of the Embroidery, and graduate down on both sides or run them so that they are raised on one side and graduated down upon the other, according to the design, and work in these lines in :in opposite direction to the Satin Stitch.
;
Fig. 3S1. Fia.
:i77.
Fig. 377 shows a Raised Satin
stitch that is to cover them.
and sloped down runnings worked over
petal with the padding raised on one side to the other,
and with
hoi'izontal
Kaised Satin Stitch
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Bluebellâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Detail A.
Kaised Satin Stitch.
A upon the main work, and Overcast the and their points, as shown in that illustration. Trace
line of Detail
petals
upon a detached piece of material the outline of Detail B, and Buttonhole all the ^ outline in very fine stitches;
work the
petals and the two horizontal lines in Raised Satin,
and pad them so that
they are most raised in the centre. In the detail one Fig. 378.
Ka 3ED Satin
petal is left unfinished, to
Stitch.
show the with a slanting stitch taken from left to right while Fig. 378 illustrates a padded petal raised in the centre and graduated to the sides, the runnings put in horizontally, and the covering stitches in an upright direction. Raised Satin Stitoh is rarely used to fill in the whole of a design, but is
combined with other Embroidery
stitches.
Fig. 379 gives a leaf executed in three stitches Back, Overcast, and Raised Satin. To work Outline the leaf :
:
in
Overcast, run a cord as a pad under the veins of the and Overcast this cord then work the right-hand side
leaf,
;
lines of
padding;
the rest are covered with
;
Overcast.
Fill in the
body
of the Bluebell with large VII
D.
Back Stitches worked
in
even rows. Cut out the p)iece of Embroidery, and stitch it on to the main part of work where the dotted lines are shown in Detail A. The piece of detached Embroidery is larger than the flat part of the flower, and will stand
up from the rest of the work where not attached main body of it.
to the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
194
A variety of
Raised Satin is known as Point de Plume. used in combination witli Satin and other stitclies,
It is
of leaving imworked upon tte petals of and leaves the parts intended to indicate the
consists
aiid
flowers
veins
it is
;
illustrated in Fig.
To work
383. sign,
the square, and finish
of the veins.
quite clear,
the veins
mn the
padding
To work Double the thread and bring the needle up from the back, hold the thread down with the left thumb to the length of an inch, put the needle in on the right-hand side of where it came
veins and centre of fl(3wer are
Work
the most raised.
straight
Satin Stitch padding, and vai-y
over
of
this
out,
tlieir
du-ectiou to follow the contour ,, lOO 1 XT J, „ Fig. o66 repreof the petals.
Stitch.
as an edging to Embroideries.
in so that the parts nearest the
lines
Stitch.
Tambour
Fill iu the petals
and
but on the same
line,
:
make a
right to left at the back, bring
horizontal stitch fi-om
out under where
it
up,
sents a flower worked in
Make
a Ciioss Stitch over the top of the loop.
DE Plume, with the
the edge
PiQ. 383.
POIST DE Pldme Stitcb.
Point marked with a black line; the centre of the flower is filled with three Etelet-holes for stamens, and the calyx is enclosed with fine Overcast, and Shi'g
filled in
Ladder
veins
Back
with
Stitch.
—See
Stitch.
Ladder
Stitch.
—
Spanish Stitch. This stitch is of two kinds, one where a Cross Stitch is worked on the face of the material and a square on the back and the other, where a cross enclosed in a square is at the front, and a square at the back. They are only worked when both sides of the material are required to be neat. To work the Cross Stitch: Make an ordinary Cross Stitch, making the back stitches the tojp and bottom lines of a square. Re;
cross the first stitch, and bring the needle out in front, ready to begin the next stitch three lines of the square at the back are made with each Cross, but they fit into ;
each other, so as to form squares as the work proceeds. To work the second kind Make a square of stitches in :
the front of the material, and work a Ceoss Stitch in the open space, passing the thread in horizontal lines from one point to the other at the back of the material. stitch much iised in ancient Church Split Stitch. Embroidery, and in silk Embroideries, to work the faces
—A
—
Work, and in Embroidery upon solid materials, such as silk and cloth. It is a succession of small Satin Stitches worked in even lines, and in a slanting direction, from left to right. To work Trace a horizontal line upon the material, bring the needle up from the back upon this line, and put it down again to the back, slightly above the Continue to make line, and in a slant from left to right. these small slanting stitches close together, and all of the same height, until the line is filled; then draw a line underneath the first one, a shoi't distance from it, and fill this line in the same way; work the top of the new line of stitches on the bottom of the fii-st line, and in in Berlin
:
between those Ti'te
first
made.
de BcBuf Stitch.
Commence by
:
stitch
from the top left-hand corner of
in the line at the
Bring the thread out a little above the bottom
bottom.
in the
line
of the
slanting
stitches,
insert
the
needle
and bring it out a quarter of an inch below and upon the line, making a Loop or Buttonhole. Draw the thread up, and put the needle through the material to the back on the line, and a little below the loop. Fig. 384 shows the working
after the loop is
first
is
stitches apart at
formed, and the loop
commence the
stitch
centre of the space.
the strands as before.
—An Embroidery Stitch made of
this
making two slanting the top and meeting
close to
up from the back of the frame, and make a and return the needle to the Then bring it up again to the surface thi'ough the
Andrew's Stitch.
of
:
middle of the first stitch, dividing or splitting the strands of silk of which it is formed by the passage of the needle. Put the needle down again to the back of the work, a short distance above where it came out, and bring it out again to the front in the centre of the second stitch, splitting St.
name
appearance of horns, and the lower ones of an animal's head. It is a useful stitch in Ticking and other Ornamental work. To make Draw a line that can be rubbed out down the
silk
four Satin Stitches arranged in the form of a St. Andrew's To work Mark out a square of the material, and cross.
—The
derived from its shape, the two upper stitches having the
short stitch on the surface,
back.
When
covered with a line of loops cut their ends. Tent Stitch. -Also known as Petit Point, and used is
and hands of figures. It has the appearance of Chain Stitch, but lies flatter on the surface, and is more capable of forming the small half-curves, rounds, or lines that follow the contour of the figure, and give the appearance of shading to Embroidery only executed in one colour-. It requires to be worked in a frame, and is made as follows Bring the
it first
and draw up, keeping the left thumb on the thread, so as not to draw it up beyond the inch held down.
came
,
work
—See Crewel Stitch. —See Chain Stitch. Tapestry Stitch. — See Gohelin Stitch. Tassel Stitch. — A stitch used to make a looped fringe Stem
:
lines, leave
;
square into the centre, and take the two remaining stitches from the two bottom corners of the square into the centre in the same manner.
Trace the dehut leave out the markings
with run
in the centre of the square
it
the next stitch from the top right-hand corner of the
it,
of Tete de Boeuf. BffinF btiich.
hole
mark
marked
In this illustration
the two slanting stitches are already
I
is
in progress.
made, the needle
is
When drawn
for the last stitch, while
the places where the needle
is
up,
inserted into the 2,
3, 4,
and 5
inserted and brought
out for the two slanting stitches that commence the next
Tete de Bceuf.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Thorn
—A line of
Slitch.
interlaced loops resembling
and made in the same way, except that the loops are closer together, not so large, and the needle is pnt in on a parallel line to -where it came out. To work Bring the needle to the front of the material, hold the thread under the left-hand thumb, make a loop with it, put the needle down on the right side of where it came up, and exactly on a line, and bring it out lower down over the loop of thread, and quite in its centre. Repeat the stitch, putting the needle in on the left-hand instead of the right, and continue working these two Single
Coral
Stitch,
:
stitches to the end.
Twisted Chain Stitch.
—Bring
right side of the material, and hold
the thread out on the it
down with
the
left-
hand thumb put the needle in to 'cross this held down thread from left to right, draw up the thread, letting the ;
down
held
piece go in the final pull.
—
Identical with Cord Stitch. Vandyke Stitch. A raised Couching. To work Lay down whipcord upon a linen foundation, in the shape of Vandykes, and tack this firmly down. Over this lay down lines of floss silk or gold cord, and to secure, bring a stitch from the back of the material, pass it over the threads, and return it to the back, and with a niimber of these stitches mark out the vandyked outline of the cords upon
Twist Stitch.
each
—
:
Vandyhe with
Stitch.
— Used
Ticking work
in
points at even distances apart.
its
and emvandyked line, To work Make
It forms a
:
a slanting Chain Stitch from left to right of the material, then a slanting Chain from right to left, bi'inging this one back under the commencement of the first stitch; continue these two stitches for the length, taking care that they are all of the same size, and that their points come under each other. Vienna Cross Stitch
Warp threads pattern.
threads leaving
secured
— See
Persian Cross Stitch.
—An
Embroidery Stitch used when are drawn away from the material to form the Warp stitch consists of drawing away the that form the weft, or cross the material, and the warp, or lengthways threads. These are together with ornamental Hem Stitch. Stitch.
—
Wavy Stitch. A raised Couching. To work Lay down upon a linen foundation lines of whipcord arranged in ciu'ves, and position. floss or
:
tack
these
into
Over these lay do\vu purse
silk,
or gold cord,
and to fasten them down, bring a stitch from the back of the material, pass it over two strands silk,
and
return
it
to
outline the curved
the
back,
and raised
on both sides with these
lines
securing stitches.
Wheaiear Stitch.— This stitch is
195 :
—First way
:
Make a
series
Point Natte down the space to be covered, and then work over their centres a line of Chain Stitches, taking of
care that the loop of each Chain Stitch begins at the spot where the Point Na.tte met ia the centre of the work.
The second way
is
to complete the stitch in one line (see
Make
a Chain Stitch down the centre, and then a slanting stitch to the right and a slanting, stitch to the left, both finishing in the Chain Stitch. Fig. 385), thus
:
—
Wheel Stitch. A stitch resembling a spider's web, and worked into the material, and not over an open space, like English wheel and other lace Wheels. To work Trace out a perfect circle upon the material, and divide it into four quarters.
Make
three long stitches in each
quarter, at equal distances apart,
and all ending in the Bring a thread up from the back of the material in the centre of the circles, and interlace work it under and over each thread in succession it centre of the circle.
;
{see Flo-. .SSfiV
Run
this thread in circles nearly to the
Fig. 336.
Wheel
Stitch.
side.
broidery upon thick materials.
of
can be worked in two ways
a combination of Point Natte
and Chain Stitch. It is used in Wheatear Stitch. Ticking and other fancy Embroideries, and also instead of Coral and Feather stitch, It for ornamenting children's dresses and imderlinen.
top of the long stitches, but not quite, and then fasten is a pattern formed with Wheels and the centres of the diamonds are crossed with diagonal lines, forming a Lattice Stitch.
it off.
Fig. 386
diamonds
;
Wliipcord Couching.
Witch
Stitch.
—The
— See
Couching
name given
used in Fancy Embroidery.
Stitch.
to Herringbone
when
See Herringbone Stitch.
—
Emljroidery Frame. All the best kinds of Emsuch as Church Embroidery, Crewel Work, Embroidery with silk. Tambour Work, and Berlin Work,
broidery,
require that their foundations shall be stretched in frames, as the stitches are apt to
when the work
draw the material together
embroidered in the hand, whereas the frame keeps the foundation evenly and tightly stretched in every part, and renders it almost impossible to pucker Frames are it, unless the Embroiderer is very unskilful. of two makes the best are those upon stands, as their use prevents habits of stooping being acquired by the worker, leaves her hands free, and gives unimpeded access to the back part of the work, without the artificial aid of slantis
:
ing the frame from the corner of some piece of furniture to her hands, or the holding that is necessary with the But as these stand Frames are cumberother kind. some and expensive, the second kind is most used; these are Frames made of four equal sized pieces of wood (see Fig. 387), or with the two horizontal pieces longer than the two upright, held together with nuts or pegs. They vary in size from 4 inches to 3 yards in length. The oblong Frames are used for long and narrow pieces, and the square for large pieces of work; and the same Frame is used indifferently for Church, Satin, and Crewel The frame for Embroideries, and for Berlin Work. it is made of differs from the others two circular wooden hoops, one smaller than the other.
Tambour Work
;
c c 2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
ig6
Both tlie hoops are covered with velvet cut on the cross, and exactly fit one into the other. The material to be embroidered is fastened to the smaller hoop, and kept The tight by the large hoop being passed over it. The ordinary frames are made of four pieces of wood. two upright pieces are called Bars; on these are nailed stout pieces of narrow webbing, to which the material
stitches close together. Brace both sides of the material, and then draw the twine up upon each side evenly and quite tight. Commence the Embroidery from the bottom of the material for canvas, and count the stitches and regulate the position, of the pattern by them and for cloth, see that the design is laid evenly upon it before tracing. ;
To Stretch Canvas and Cloth Together.
—This
is
re-
quired when a Berlin pattern is to be worked with cloth, for the ground. If the cloth foundation does not require to be bigger than the frame, cut it half an inch smaller
every
way thau the
Turn it stretches more. the canvas, right side upper-
canvas, as
the cloth down, and tack
it to
most, then tack them both together, and hem them where the raw edges of canvas are. If the cloth has to bo rolled over the frame, pxit soft paper in between the roUs of cloth,
and as the edges of the cloth are turned under, and
are therefore thicker than the centre parts, lay more silver paper In the centre of the rolls than at the outside, or a
appear upon the cloth on each side of the frame. Having sewn the two pieces of material together, attach them to the frame in the ordinary manner, and put them
line will
in,
When
with the canvas uppermost.
from the
broidered, cut the canvas
threads away before the cloth
is
is emand draw the
the pattern
cloth,
taken out of the frame.
—
To Stretch Velvet. When the size of the velvet to be embroidered does not exceed that of the frame, and the work is not for Church Embroidery, hem it round, and sew it
is
Fig. 387.
to the
The two
attached.
Stretchers;
horizontal
are
pieces
called
these are bored through with holes placed
through which metal or wooden pegs In the are run to fasten the pieces of wood together. stand Frames these holes and pegs arc not used, the wooden supports being lengthened or shortened by the at equal distances,
aid of screws.
The fastening " dressing
nicety, as,
of the material into the frame is called a frame," and requires to be done with great if it is rucked, or unevenly pulled in any part,
the advantage of the stretching Slight variations in the
manner
is
entirely destroyed.
of framing are necessary
according to the materials worked upon; follows
they are as
—
¥or Canvas and Cloth and Serge Materials. Select a frame long enough to take in the work in one direction, turn down the canvas or cloth about half an inch all round, and sew it down. If the length of the material will not allow of all of it being placed in the frame at once, roll it round one of the bars of the frame, with silver paper put between each roll to prevent it from getting lined. Sew the sides of the canvas to the webbing with strong linen thread, and put the fi-ame together, stretching the matei-ial to its fullest, and fastening the pieces of wood together through the holes with the pegs. Then take a piece of twine, thread it through a packing needle, and brace the it
to the stretchers.
At each
When
it
the Embroidery through the holland, and when away from the back of the
finished, cut the refuse holland
material, only leaving that part that
stitch pass it
over the stretcher and into the material, and
make the
is
covered by the
used as a background In Church Embroidery requires to be entirely backed with holland, in order to sustain the weight of the Embroidery laid upou it. Frame the holland (it should be of a fine description) as in canvas framing, and then paste it all over Its surface with Embkoideky Paste over this, by the aid of three stitches.
Velvet that
is
;
Take the velvet up, fully stretched out, and held by two people, and lay it down without a wrinkle upon the holland keep.it fully stretched out, and hold it firmly. Then let the third person, with hands underneath the frame, press the holland up to the velvet, persons, lay the velvet.
;
so that the
;
material with
its selvedge.
framing, and tack to this holland with tacking threads just the parts of velvet that are to be embroidered.
Embeoidekt Peame,
Work is
webbing of the bars by
larger thau the frame, stretch holland, as in canvas
two materials may adhere together without the
velvet pile being injured.
To Stretch Satin or
Silk.
— Stretch
a piece of fine
holland in the frame, and paste the silk down to it with Embroidery Paste, but only tack the satin to it.
—
To Stretch Leather or Kid. Stretch a bleached cotton In the frame, and paste the with Embroidery Paste, or tack the leather at the parts it is to be woi-ked ; cut the
piece of unleather to
it
firmly
down
calico
from
underneath when the Embroidery is finished. Do not stretch the leather or kid in the frame merely see that ;
it
lies flat,
and without wrinkles.
To Stretch Crepe.
— Sew
that in the usual way.
it
to
Book muslin, and frame
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Embroidery Needles.
—There are two or three descrip-
For canvas work they and blunt, and the eyes wide and long.
tions of Needles for Embroidery.
are short, thick,
I'or Chenille embroidci'y
and sharp at
point.
tlie
they are wider still in the eye, For use on cambric and muslin,
as in the Irish close and cut-work, and that called " Madeira " embroidery, a " between " is employed. For close materials, such as cloth, the needle has a long eye and sharp point, and resembles a darning needle, but is neither as long nor as thin. For Tainbour and Crochet work they are thick, and have a hook at the end instead of an eye.
Art work on
—
usually at periods
when
—A
Encolure. i'rench term to signify the opening at the neck of a dress, and that at the arm-hole, to receive
^or Pasting Materials Together Take loz. of the best gum, loz. of sugar candy, and a small piece of alum
threes,
just cover
to
it
powder, lay
fine
in water.
add
mixture
the
shallow vessel,
a
with cold water, and leave
Then take loz. Put the mixed
four hours.
in
to dissolve for
it
and mis it smoothly into an earthen vessel,
of flour, flour
above-mentioned,
the
place
vessel
surround it with water. Put and let the mixture simmer (not boil); stir it, to prevent its getting lumpy, keejiing the saucepan on the fire until the mixture is as thick as cream; then take it off the fire, but continue to stir until it is cold. Put the paste in a bottle, as it will Should it thicken after keeping, keep for some time. Another recipe add a little cold water. Take three tablespbonfuls of flour, and as much powdered resin as will lie on a shilling place these ingredients in half a pint of water, and boil for five minutes stir until it boils, and afterwards, and use when cold. To this a teaspoonful of essence of cloves can be added as a preservabut this is not necessary. tive, while the paste is boiling in
a
saucepan,
and
the saucepan on the
fire,
:
;
;
;
For Strengthening Embroidery
gum
:
Use
size instead of the
or resin of the above recipes.
Emery. —This
;
It is also made to adhere, by ing with oil or water. the use of size, as a coating on paper or thin calico, and thus rendered available for polishing steel. For the
purpose of needlework, the powder closely-compressed
cushions,
is
into
placed in very small,
which
needles
are
rapidly inserted and pulled out several times, for the removal of damp and rust. For children learning plain
sewing these emery cushions are very essential, especially if the material be thick and stiff.
En is
bias.
—The
French term for
"On
En
ChSle.
—A
The ribbon
— that
is
" shell-
laid like a succession of
one above or over the other, in groups of having been previously lined and plaited, and
scallop-shells,
then drawn closely together at the top of each scallop, leaving the lower portion of the " coquille " to spread out in a half -circle. When employed as a trimming for crape or gauze, the strips of material of which they are to be
made should be cut double the width
of what is required, and folded over on each side, so that the edges may overlap where it is tacked down the middle, while the double material is being pleated. The space between the edge of the toj) pleat of one group and the lower one of the group succeeding it must never exceed the width of the strip which is worked ujjon.
En En
Embeoidery Stitches. Embeoideey Stitches. A French
CovLc\i\ire.—Sce
Echelle.
— See
term to signify iu ladder form; also a word applied to trimmings consisting of a succession of narrow plaitings laid on horizontally between two upright side folds or bands, forming, as it were, a kind of insertion with a ladder-like appearance. Folds of this description were at one time extended across the front of a bodice, wide at the shoulder, and gradually reduced towards the waist.
—
Evantail. A French term to signify " designed form of a fan," and employed to describe methods of trimming in dressmaking and millinery. Flounces at the end of a skirt are sometimes thus made, openings being cut at regularly recurring distances, and a piece of after the
material of a different shade of colour, or a different piece of material, inserted into each opening, which plaited, closely confined together at the top,
to
flare
open
like
a fan at the bottom,
is
and allowed giving
much
freedom, as well as a more ornamental character, to the flounce.
English Embroidery. also known
—A
simple kind of white The Broderie Anglaise. patterns are generally worked open that is to say, composed of holes from which the interior has been cut, and
Embroidery,
as
—
the holes run round and
Overcast; but the
finest
and
best sorts of English Embroidery are ornamented with
Embroidery Stitches Broderie Anglaise.
trimmings
laid
Euglisli Laces. For three centuries the making of Pillow Lace was carried on iu England to a very con-
—
to denote
or lace
any
web
manner.
French term
Coquille.— The French term to denote
of
the bias"
to say, folded or cut diagonally across the
textile in a slanting
En
shaped."
En
a variety of Corundum, and, with the exception of the diamond, is the hardest substance known. It is produced in the island of Naxos, in the Grecian Archipelago. It is imported in lumps, and has to be reduced to powder for use by means of stamping mills it is then sifted into different degrees of fineness, and rendered availal.ile for grinding down surfaces by moistenis
have been in fashion.
Cceur. The French term to denote heart, or " V-shaped," and employed by dressmakers to describe the style of the opening in front of a bodice, which is otherwise " square cut."
the top of the sleeve.
reduce this
belts
—
En
Embroidery paste is used for Em'broidery Paste. two purposes in needlework; first, to effect the adhesion of two materials; secondly, to strengthen and stiffen Embroidery at the back. :
197
upon dresses, and formed with a corner point at the back, an angle being made at the junction of two sides of a square. Small capes, so shaped at the back, and just reaching to the waist, but with long ends in front, worn crossing each other, have been much in vogue at different times,
as
well as
with open work.
See
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. siderable extent, and, until the manvifacture of machine-
made
lace, Tvas
looked upon as one of the great industries
of the poor in the Midland
and Western
counties.
the present time, with the exception of Honiton
made
At lace,
Devonshire, and Maltese Guipures, made
in
in
where threads cross, work in the same manner, and repeat from *, as shown in Fig. 3S8. Another way of working this stitch
is
:
Place the lines diagonally across the space,
and radiate them, by making them farther from each other at one side than the other; work the spots over
Bedfordshire, and around London, not practised to anything like its former extent, the work being extremely laborious, and the Messrs. Marshall and remuneration most inadequate.
Buckinghamshire, the art
is
Snelgrove are eucoirraging the making of Flemish, Italian,
and Spanish
laces in the
West
of England.
A coarse description of Bone Lace was made in England sixteenth century, but never attained any and it was not imtil the arrival of Flemish refugees, and an interest had been taken in its manufacture by Katherine of Aragon, that English lace became Owing to that Queen's exertions, and of any value. the impulse given to its manufacture by religious refugees from Holland and France, English lace began to be of good make and design, and mention is made of presents of it to Queen Elizabeth by her courtiers. It continued to improve, and was until very recently protected from foreign competition by Acts of Pai-Hament, the result being that vast quantities of Belgian lace were smuggled into England and sold as Point d'Augleterre. The laces made in England are all copies of foreign laces, and some are considered to equal in beauty of design and workmanship the originals. Old Devonshire rivalling Brussels lace, Honiton, and Point Duchesse, and the Valenciennes made at Northampton, that produced in Belgium and the Low Countries. Although no kind of
the
before
celebrity;
lace-making, with the exceiHion of Honiton, has been confined to a particitlar locality, consequent upon the various
settlements
Buckinghamshire,
of
and
foreign
workers,
Northampton
the centres for the production of Lille,
Run
Bedfordshire,
are
considered
Laces, English
Valenciennes, Regency Point, Plaited Laces, Old
and Black lacea and around London, for black and white Blonde laces. Wiltshire and Dorsetshii'e were at one time celebrated for a lace made at Blandford and Lyme Regis, but the manufacture became extinct in the eighteenth century. The laces made in Devonshire and on the borders of Cornwall were formerly of considerable va,riety, but at present Honiton application and Honiton Guipure are chiefly made. The manufacture of these is, however, in a flourishing condition; new patterns and stitches are constantly worked, and that exhibited at the Exliibition of 1862 was so good as to obtain very high commendation from the judges. For a description of the Laces, see their various headings. Brussels, Maltese Guipures,
;
the lines large to commence with, and at the end very small. For a second variation, known as Open English
Lace,
make
four
lines
of
thread
each
cross
diagonally, horizontally, and perpendicularly,
a spot on the last
other
and work
line.
—
English. Lille. This is a name given to some of the Pillow laces manufactured in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire during the eighteenth century, because the patterns originally came from the districts around Lille
and Arras.
—
English Netting. See Netting. English Point. The English Point made during the
—
last
century seems to have been entirely the production of
the wealthier classes, and never to have been universal.
It
was Spanish Point or Rose Point, and was taught to the daughters of people wealthy enough to send their children abroad to be educated in foreign convents; and though worked as an article of commerce, and mentioned in various ofiicial reports, its manufactiu'e never became so popular as that of Bone or Pillow Lace. The lace woi'ked in England at the present time, and known as Modern Point, is formed with braids of various sizes arranged as patterns, and filled in with most of the original stitches
used in ancient Needle-points.
See
Modeen
Point Lace.
—
ZSuglisli Lace Stitch. This stitch is used in Needle Point and in modern Point Lace. It requires to be worked with the finest thread. To work Cross the space in one direction with a number of closely twisted Bars, a little way apart, but equal in distance*. Then, under these Bars, iDass a thread in the opposite direction, and secure it to the braid, twist it to the first place where the threads cross, and work the needle round it tmtil a fair sized spot is made, thus Carry the needle over one thread and under the other alternately. Twist to the next place :
:
Detail B.
English Wheel.
English Wheel. also
called
— Used
in
Modern Point Lace, and To work as shown in
Point a rAiguille.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
—Fill
np the space witli thirteen Baes, made Pass the thread from. 1 to 2, and CoRD the thread back to the centi-e of the space round 2, then pass the thread to 3, and Cord back to the centre, and continue Pig. 389
as follows
:
to pass the thread into the points
marked with the
figures,
and Cord them back to the centre, until all are made and Corded with the exception of the first Bar, which leave
To make the spot
uncorded.
in the centre
:
Insert the
needle over and under each Bar, and work round this
manner
until a
the thread up Bar
handsome sjjot and fasten oil'
them
formed, then cord
is
(see Fig. 389,
1,
in
Detail
199
Ermine
is a native. It measures about 10 inches in and nearly resembles the Marten in form, but tho common Weasel of this country in habits and feeding. During the winter the fur becomes snow-white, but
length,
throughout the summer the body,
is
dingy brownish hue.
The
This fur was so highly esteemed
yellow.
in the reign of
it is a
the end, while the other half, towards
tail is jet l^lack at
Edward III. that its use was restricted to But while free to all now, it continues
the Royal family.
employed for the linings and trimmings of the England, Eirssia, Spain, Germany, &c. The black spots which decorate the white fur in every to be
State robes of
square inch of these robes, are
made with
The
black Astrachan Lamb.
tails
the feet of the
of the
Ermine are
used on cloaks, tippets, muifs, boas, and other articles of Tho skins measure about 4 inches by women's dress. 9 inches, and their small size adds necessarily to the costliness of the articles made from them.
—
A
and B).
Escalier Lace. A stitch used in Modern Point Lace, and also called Cadiz Lace. It is shown Make Point de in Pig. 391. To work
English Wheel.
Fig. 390.
Fig. 390 is an illustration of an English
Wheel made with required to
fill
six Bars.
in
:
Bruxelles
Wheels are They are worked as
Three
the design.
of these
Eugr^lure.
Point de Bruxelles stitches would fill where the open diamond is formed in the illustration.
is
fastened to the
from the lower and scalloped edging. It is also The Engrelure is sometimes made with called Footing. the rest of the lace, and at others separately, as a narrow piece, and afterwards sewn on to the main part.
Estamene,' •A French made
dress,
En Konde Bosse. — See Embeoideet Stitches. Eu Taljlier. — The French term to signify " in the style of an apron," in reference to the
front of a skirt, which
is
made
form or trimming of the to appear as if an aprou
—
Entoilage. The French term for the ground of lace, on to which the Toile, or flower part of design, is worked.
Entre deux. — The French term that
is
like a serge, twilled,
Lace
—literally
for Insertion,
translated,
"
Em-
between two,"
to say, sewn between two other pieces of material
as a decorative trimming;
making
sively in the
a style which obtains exten-
of infants' robes
Euvers.
former.
—
Estrich. (or Estridge). The fine soft down beneath feathers of the ostrich, which is employed as a
French word, signifying the wrong side of garment. If a garment be put on inside would be said that it was "inis a I'envers."
out,
it
—
Epaise. The French term stance, and applied frequently
to express thick in
sub-
to describe textiles.
—
Ermine Weasel
—The
tribe, in
the Kolinski. Siberia,
French for
(Musiela Erminea).
pins.
—This
common with The
skins
animal
is
of
the
the Fitch, or Polecat, and
are
Norway, and Sweden,
imported from Hussia, which countries the
of
substitute for beaver in making hats, and in the manufacture of a stufE resembling fine linen cloth. It was imported free of duty to this country as far back as the reign of Charles II., as " Estridge," or " Bever
Wooll."
Etamine.
—A
coarse description of Woollen Bunting
Canvas, more or less transparent. It is employed as a dress materia), and intended to be worn over a contrasting colour. The threads are of a fluify character, and the material is to be had in a bright but dark blue, navy blue, russet and other shades of brown, in
cream colour, maroon, and sage green. Etamine woven with stripes of velvet, embroidered, and in plaited woven stripes; and it is also produced in black,
is
Epaulette. A word borrowed from the French Epaul, meaning the shoulder, and the diminutive which follows, combined with it, forms the word into a term meaning an ornament for the shoulder, both in dressmaking, and in reference to uniforms and liveries. Epiugles.
the
or
—A
textile or
face.
different qualities, it varies in price, but uniformly measures 25 inches in widtli. It is employed for women's dresses. In weather suitable for the wearing of Serge, Estamene might be a fitting substitute, but, at the same time, as a superior kind of dress material to the
and other clothing,
in white cambric, lawn, or muslin.
any
somewhat Being made
all-wool cloth,
but having a rough
in
it.
broidery, or
together in
that two
— A lace term used to distinguish the upper
part of a lace edging, and the one that
covered
close
straight rows, and only miss the space
already described. '
stitches
also
cottou.
—
Etching Embroidery. This vai'iety of needlework was originally called Print Work, and was much in vogue during the first part of the present century; many specimens of it are still to be met. with as fi'amed pictures. It was intended to reproduce, by the aid of Embroidery coupled with Painting, fac-similes of line engravings, and was worked with fine black silk over To work Stretch in an Ebia sepia tinted ground. :
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. BEOIDEET Feame some good -wliite or cliief silk, and pencil upon this tlie
oream-coloui-ed outlines
of
a
landscape engraving with prominent objects or figures.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Take a
sable brush,
for
the
and form the sky by washing in
darker
parts,
leaving
the
a short distance apart, and work the darkest shades
Satin Stitch medium and the
surface
of
silk untouched for the white clouds; and then colour the rest of the picture with washes of sepia, in shades corresponding to those of the engraving. Thread
the
deepest tints with separate Satin
EMBBOIDEKT. commence them close together, and end them more apart. Work the foliage of trees in fine Feench Knots. Etching Embroidery is at present worked more in outline than in filled- iu Embroidery, and is used for Stitches;
ErcmsG Embhoieekt a needle with fine black silk, and commence to cover the painting. Leave unworked all light parts, such as the sky work the medium tint with run lines of black ;
Graduate between
close together.
the
\
t
ETCHING
sepia
silk
iu flat
Fig. "9i,
d'oyleys
Etcuing
Emeeoidert
is an illustration and is worked as Draw the design in pencil upon jean, and tint it
and small
pictures.
Fig. 392
of a pattern intended for a picture,
follows
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. with waslies of sepia, then outline all the chief parts with Fill in the boat, the oars, and fine black silk run lines.
the compound word
part of the frogs and lobster, -with run lines close together, and mark out the lily flowers and the reins of the leaves in the same way. If the work is intended to wash, leave
dress or furniture,
out the sepia, and only work in the black silk lines. The two medallions (Figs. 393 and 394) are intended to be framed, and are entirely worked with black silk, without
To work Trace the outlines upon creamand work them over in Ceewel Stitch
any painting. coloured
:
silk,
with fine black silk, filling in those parts of the picture that are represented black. Work the whole of the back-
ground with a number of Feench Knots. Eteriielle Lace. Another name for Saxony Lace. Etoiles. These are required in Guipure d'Art, and are made with Slip Stitch, Point de Toile, Point de Venise, or Point de Keprise, arranged to fill in the meshes of the Fig. 395 is an netted Foundation with star patterns. Etoile worked in Slip Stitch and Point de Reprise, and Commence with Slip Stitch, take is made as follows a square of four meshes, and wind the thread four times round the right-hand top corner and the left-hand bottom corner, then reverse the winding, and wind the threads
—
—
:
made
Eyelet-holes
used to designate.
is
an article of and are either finished with Buttonhole Stitch, or with a metal binding affixed by means of are
to receive a lace, cord, or riljljon in
machinery.
F.
—A
term derived from the Latin Fahrica, rendered in French Fahriqiie, and not only employed to signify the structure or frame of any building, but of general application to manufactures of the loom otherwise, and more correctly, designated Textiles. Thus, it is very usual to speak of fabricating tissues of silk and wool, to avoid a repetition of the word manufacture. Facing. A term employed by drescraakers and tailors Fabric.
—
—
signify the lining applied to the extreme edge of a
to
dress or other
garment when used
and
it
liveries
cuffs,
and
;
uniforms
in reference to
denotes the differently coloured breast,
collars,
the colours being selected bo as to
accord with those of the regiment, guild,
city,
or family
represented.
—
Fa^on. A French term, signifying the make or external form of anything the shape, style, appearaiiee, or pattern. Fag.
— —The idea attached to the term
tion, inferiority,
Thus,
Fag
is
and
is
that of imperfec-
conseqvient rejection or destruction.
employed to signify a knot or blemish in the
web of cloth, an imperfect or coarse part of it. Fag-end. The rough, unfinished end of a web
—
Detail B.
Detail A. Fio. 305.
Etoile ih Slip Stitch ahd Point de Bepeise.
of the cloth,
round the other corners (see Fig. 395, Detail A). Bring the thread out in the middle of the square, and wind it round and round the centre, passing it over and under the Slip Stitches in that place. Complete the Etoile liy working Point de Repeise as four points, in the manner shown in Detail B. Make a Vandyke with two threads on each side of the centre mesh, and then interlace the thread in and out of these Vandyke lines and
mesh foundation,
the
first
over the right-hand thread,
under the middle thread, and over the left-hand, and then over the middle thread and under the right-hand. Fig. 386 is an Etoile worked in Slip
Stitch and Point de Toile thus Take a square of nine meshes, and work Slip :
Etoile Fia. 396. IN Slip Stitch and
Stitch in each outside corner.
the
centre
square
with
Point de Toile.
Then
four
cross
straight
threads laid in one direction, and darn these together with four threads in a contrary direction, working the cone-like finishes to the centre square in
the same way.
Everlasting.
—A description of woollen Jean, emploj'ed
for the tops of boots.
(which
It is another
name
for
Peunella
sea).
—
Eyelet-hole. The word eye is derived from the French " ct " is merely a diminutive, suitably applied in a>i7 reference to the small opening made in any material, which ;
any
of
where
it is secured to the loom. It is usually imperfectly or wholly undyed, and is disfigured with holes. Sometimes it is of a jioorer or coarser quality than the rest
textile,
and purchasers are allowed
to exclude it
from
the calculation of the length for which they pay.
—
Faille. This is a French term, denoting the ribbed or corded make in the weaving of ribbon or of piece silk but there is likewise a silk stuif especially known by the name of Faille, employed for evening dresses, and trimmings of It is soft in quality, and has more hats and bonnets. substance than a Fotjlaed, has but. little gloss, and is expensive. Faille looks better in light than in dark colours. ;
Fall.
—A
term much employed in dressmaking and
millinery, in reference to trimmings of lace, after the fashion of a fringe, depending
when
applied
from an edge or
For example, a trimming of deep lace, depending from the neck part, and round the shoulders of a low bodice, would be called a Fall of lace. In millinery, lace sewn to the brim of a bonnet, to serve as a veil, is called a Fall. False Buttonholes. These are sometimes adopted as decorations for dresses and jackets. They are made by border.
—
sewing a cord, or small roll of the material cut crosswise, of the same size and shape as a buttonhole, the button being sewn on the two ends of the roll or cord, at their The deception can be made more complete junction.
by cutting an opening in the stuff, running a narrow it on the right side, and turning the other edge through the hole, and hemming it on the wrong side. binding round
They may also be simulated thus
Insert the needle at one end of the supposed length of the opening at the top, then twist the silk round the end of the needle on its appeai-:
D D
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. ance up fhrougli tte material, at tlie opposite end of tlie opening, nntil tlie length of twisting shall equal that of
the curve required be a small sharp one, only twist the threads tvzice instead of three times. False Stitches. Used in Pillow Lace for rounding the
—
inner edges of curves and
circles,
and identical with False
Pinholes.
Fancy
Clieclcs.
— These are varieties, produced in every
description of stuff, more or less after the models of the
no degree distinctive of Tartans. Fancy Cotton BiblDon. Tliis Ribbon is made like a species of Tax^e, and employed for strings of nightdresses and caps, and for use on articles made of white cotton. One variety is oraiameuted with open work, after the style of lace, and is about an inch in width. Some Fancy Cotton Ribbons are made with a velvet pile, cut in strips fi-oni the ijiece, and having a raw edge, which is sized to prevent a fraying out. See Cotton Ribbon Yelvets. Fancy Materials. Under this name an indefinite number of fabrics must be classed, some of ephemeral character, many appearing under Trade names, differing original Scotch Tartans, but in
any Chin.
»S'ce
—
—
False BnTiosnOLES.
the hole. Thou place the thumb of the left hand on the roll so made, to keep it in place while the needle and silk are drawn through it (see Fig. 397).
False
Hem. — This
applied to a fold-over at the
is
extreme edge of any portion of dress or other article, made of whatever kind of textile; it has the appearance of a hem, and serves its purpose, but is not one in reality.
Making a False
Hem
is
a
method
of lengthening a skirt
or sleeves, or widening a bodice or jacket. It is eifected thus Open out the material of the dress or jacket to its extreme xn'oportions, run a piece of lining on to the edge of the material, and turn in the strip of lining employed to form the False Hem, hemming it down on the :
Thus, instead of turning in a comparatively wide strip of an inch in depth, a very narrow edge only is turned in with the lining, and the whole of the material inside.
is
made available to enlarge the dress. False Fin Holes. These are required
—
in Pillow Lace making, in the inner part of curves or circles, to keep the outer and inner edges level with one another, and are also called False Stitches. A s the outer edge of the curve or circle is necessarily larger than the inner, a greater number of pinholes are required at that edge than at the other, and as the working threads must pass backwards and forwards across the passive threads as usual, the only way of arranging them so as to lie flat is to stick one inner pin to two outer, and to work twice over the inner pinhole instead of only once, the usual way. To work Take the working Bobbins across to the inside, twist three times, put up a pin, and, instead of completing the edge, return with the same pair, and put up the pin on the outer edge finish the stitch, and return with the pair from behind that pin. "Work with these to the inner pin, take it out, and stick it in again, so that it holds the row just worked, putting it in the same hole as before; work the edge with the pair of Bobbins waiting at the inner edge. Repeat until the circle or curve is rounded. By this process two outer pins are stuck to one inner, and the curves rounded without puckering. Occasionally drive a pin down to its head to keep the lace firm, and, should :
respectively in the various shops.
Collectively they are
called " Fancies"
produced in
by the Trade, and consist of varieties the weaving, the patterns, and the com-
binations of colour, together with newly-jn'oduced dyes, according to the fashion of the time in Stuffs of every
—
description, of
cloths
for
permanent there
dress,
use.
are
"
For example, in Woollen Mooi-ish " and " Boucle,
"Canvas Rayo," "Sauglier Raye," sti'iped "Moorish Crape Lawn," "MeguetBroohc," "Beige Brode," canvas,"
"Foule Erode," &c. In Silk stuffs, the "Theodora," "Faille Fran^aise," and "Black Satin Damas " both the latter in geometrical, or small floral, designs, and corded. In Velvets, also, there are " Fancy " makes such as those woven in stripes with Grosgrain, and produced in two shades of colour, as well as in black, or any single colour.
—
—
As
so
many
of these varieties are continually appearing
and disappearing, and ai'e each frequently known by different names, they must be classed luider the general
name
of
"Fancy
diplomatist,
name
A
Materials."
an author, or an
war, a victoiy, a hero, a
actress, very usually give
a
to these novelties of the season.
Fancy
Silk Sheeting.
— This
material has a small
diaper pattern thrown up in the weaving. It is to be had It is in all colours, and is employed for embroidery.
22 inches in width.
Fancy Tambour.— Sfe Tambour Work. Fancy Tricot. — These are various arrangements TmcoT, and are Fancy Work.
of
described in Ckochet.
—
A term applied to Needlework that intended for decorative, and not for useful, purposes.
is
Fan Lace. — Used in Ancient Needle Lace and in Modern
—
To work First row Blake six close Point de Bruxelles Stitches, leave the space of six; repeat to Point.
end of the
:
line.
Second row
—work sis Point de Bruxelles
Stitches into the six in first row, carry the thread to the next six Point de Bruxelles, and work over those; re-
—
Third row work six Point de. peat to end of the row. Bruxelles Stitches into each of the loops of the last row,
—
Fourth row work six Point de Bruxelles Stitches into every six of the last row, and sis
and make loops between.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
—
into eacli loop. Fifth row work six Point de Bruxelles Stitclies into the six in the loop, and leave the space between them. Repeat from the third row.
Fashion.
—A
term employed in reference to the style, usage with regard to
cut, pattern, colours, or prevailing
dress, or other matters. Fashion wears out more apparel than the man.
:
—ShaliUiKarit.
—
Fast Pile Velveteen. This is a velveteen made after new and superior method, ensuring the fixity and firm adhesion of the pile, which used to wear out of the web when manufactured according to the original plan. The names given to it vary according to the fancy of the several manufacturers who produce it, and amongst them it is known as "Imperial," "Louis," " Mancunium," "Brunsa
wick Finish," the " Peacock Velveteen," &o., by which it may be inquired for. Feather Cloth. A mixture of cloth and feathers woven together, the cloth being undyed, and produced in drabs and greys. This curious material measures IJ yards in width. It has a very unfinished appearance, as the feather ends protrude from the face here and there throughout, yet are woven into the web sufficiently well to
names
—
preclude their falling out. one, comparatively light,
being rendered so by
The
cloth
naturally a
is
warm
and probably waterproof, without
artificial
means.
It is a specialty of
a large firm.
—
Feather, or Fringed Ruche. This description of is made by cutting a piece of silk parallel with the
RrcHE
selvedges, at distances of about 2 inches apart, throughout
the whole width of the material, and then drawing out the threads of the warp. Being cut on the straight, this
Ruche needs
to be fuller
than those made crosswise, and
own length will be necessary in calculating amount required for the space to be trimmed. Feathers. Almost every description of bird, from the small humming bird to the ostrich, supplies plumage that
three times its
the
—
employed for dress decoration; and not only so, but Feathers are worn both in theijfor actual clothing. natural hues and dyed, and employed in upholstery for pillows, &c. The word is derived the stufiing of beds, from the Dutch vcder. Feather Stitch. The two varieties of this stitch are the Opus Pluuuirium of ancient writers, itsed at that period and at the present time for filling in Embroideries worked in silk and crewels upon silk, cloth, and serge materials, and Feather and Double Feather Stitch, used to make the ornamental lines that decorate underlinen and children's /See Embeoideet Stitches. dresses. is
—
Feather Work.
—
This consists of covering buckram or foundations with birds' feathers, arranged in designs, and sewn entirely over the foundation. The work is very handsome, and is used for vallances, picture frames, other
stiff
chairs, brackets, fire screens, muffs, bonnets,
trimmings.
Large
articles are covered
and for dress
with Aylesbury
duck or white poultry feathers, dyed in various colours, and small with peacock, pheasant, parrot, ostrich, marabout, pigeon, Guinea fowl, and black-cock feathers used feathers are prepared as follows,
tained from domestic poultry
quarts of boiling water a table or tcaspoonful of Jndson's
;
if
white,
First, gently
and ob-
wash the bird
and steep them out one
dye, according to the depth of shade required,
the feathers in this for five minutes; take
by one with a pair of j)incers, so as not to toiich them, then add more dye to the water, and thoroughly stir the mixture throw the feathers in, stir all up together, and take out the feathers separately, without touching them, when they ai'e sulficiently coloured. Crawshaw's ;
dyes
may
also be used.
To Worli for Dress Trimmings, a large quantity of these dyed feathers, and strips of webbing, or Petersham, are required. Fasten the foundation of webbing to a weight cushion, and sew the feathers, one by one, on in lines across the width; slope their ends inwards and to the centre, and conceal the edge of the foundation by making the feathers overlap, laying the second line of feathers over the first, to thoroughly hide the securing stitches. Stitch each feather four times with a waxed thread. Put these stitches close to the end of the quill, two upon each side of it, and crossing each other.
—
To Work for Bonnets. Procure a black bonnet shape, bind the edges, and sew the feathers on singly, on the brim as straight lines, on the crown as circles.
—
To Worh for Muffs. Make the shape in buckram, and sew the feathers on singly, and in upward lines. To Woi-h Vallances and Braclcets. Cut a buckrani foundation the size of the article, rub it over with a little carbolic acid, and arrange well-marked natural feathers in
—
straight lines along the foundation, taking care that they thoroughly overlap each other. Begin at the lower end of
the material, graduate the colours, put in
all
one colour
and follow by a contrasting line sew each feather on separately with a waxed thread. To Make a Screen. These are usually made with peacocks' feathers. Cut out an oval or roiiud shajpe, and sew on as the first round the largest eyed peacocks' birds' feathers in a line,
—
feathers
;
for the second round, the smaller size
third round, the dark blue neck feathers
;
;
for the
for the fourth,
and finish with the head feathers Should the screen be a large one, sew on two lines of each kind of feathers, but keep to the same order. To work Fig. 398 Cut out the shape on buckram, and sew round it, so that the edge is thoroughly concealed, the fine filaments of peacocks' feathers; make the next round with parrots or pheasants' feathers, then fill in the centre with white poultry feathers, and over them arrange a lai'ge tuft of peacocks' filaments as a finish. Conceal the back of the buckram with a cardboard foundation, covered with fluted silk, which gum on to the buckram; the breast feathers
and
;
crest.
:
buckram with black paper.
or simply cover the
To work
in their natural shades.
The
203
and lukewarm water to which a little whisky has been added, and let it dry in a clean, warm place; after it has been killed, pick off the feathers, enclose them in a strong bag, and bake in a moderate oven. Shake each feather separately, cut ofi the fluff and the little hard piece at the top of the quill, and keep them where they are not likely to be crushed. To dye Pour into two in soapsuds
— This
Butterfly is intended as an ornament to be worn in the bonnet or in the hail', and is made as follows Cut out the shape in buckram, D r> 2 Fig. 399.
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
204
allow for each wing IJ inolies in depth, and \\ inctes
and
in width,
for the
5 inch in width.
body
IJ
and the pattern, and
inches in length,
Shape the wings
like
To cover the
roiind the lower extremity of the body.
two upper wings, sew on large and strong pheasant by cutting them with scissoi's, so
feathers; shape these
over,
Hem
and
them double, placing them flat down upon The turn-over edge should be deeper than
the stufE.
that underneath, so that the
Hem may
be
less
bulky,
and that the needle employed for Hemming may pass through two folds only, instead of four. This difierence in the depth of the two edges of material should be
before they are
Run
A
together.
Fell has
made
a second
and means the end of a web (textile). Felt. This is made of matted wool, hair, rabbits' fur, or other substances, first carded, then fulled, rolled, and 23ressed, and converted into a stout nap by a process that signification,
—
interlaces the several fibi'es. It is employed for hats, and heavy cloths used as carpets, but does not wear well, as the dye is liable to be rubbed off the surface. Frenchmade Felt, being softer and more pliable, is considered superior to our own, and preferred for hats. It is stiffened and made waterproof by the application of shellac, on both sides, with a brush. Felt is of ancient and Eastern origin. The Tartars employ it for their tents and clothing. Hats made of Felt were in use in this country in the Middle Ages, and were superseded by beaver ones, as well as by those of velvet in the reign of Elizabeth. The article is much used still for other purposes, the waste wool from weaving mills, and the hair of rabbits' fur, when cleaned, damped, rolled, beaten, and pressed together, being much employed for
druggets.
Feudu.
—A French term to manner
after the
denote cut open or slashed, decoration in the time of
dress
of
that they slope to meet the uuderwings, and notch their
Henry VIII.,- Elizabeth, and for some time subsequently. The style was derived from the Swiss. See Slashing.
Make the under wings of the neck feathers of the peacock, and let these slightly overlap the upper wings,
of
and notch
likewise given to ends of imperfectly printed cambrics,
Fents.
edges.
their edges.
with lampblack in with Chinese white.
oil
Paint the edge of colour,
Upon
all
the wings
and make the white spots
the upper end of the body sew
— A technical term denoting the ends of calicoes,
various descriptions, tacked together.
The name
which are sold by weight, and used for jjatchwork
is
quilts.
—
Ferret. A kind of tape, narrower than ordinary bindings, and made of silk, cotton, or worsted. The Cotton Feeeets have the appearance of unsized tape. Those in drab colour and black are mostly employed. They are
made up Numbers
in rolls of nine pieces, 8-18, or else 6-24.
deteriorated.
containing 16 yards.
The manufacture has
Cotton Ferrets
should
be
lately
stouter than
Italian but are now usually of a flimsy quality made of silk only, and all of one width, although of various colours, besides black and white. There are four pieces, of 36 yards each, in the gross. tapes,
Ferrets are
—
The French term for Buttonhole, or Double when used as a scalloped or plain edging to See EmBroderie Anglaise and other Embroideries. Feston.
Overcast,
BEOiDEEvr Stitches. Fig. 3D3.
down two
BuTiERFLY
in
Featuer Work.
—
\\ inches in length, to form the antennEB, and then cover over the foundation with black velvet; shape the head, and make the eyes fine pieacocks' filaments,
with two black beads bar the velvet body across with gold thread, and finish it off with a line of gold thread, where it joins the wings. Cover the back of the buckram with ;
black velvet, and sew a loop of wire into the velvet, through which to pass a hairpin.
Felling.
—A
material being
term used in sewing. first
Run
Two
together, turn the
pieces of
raw edges
Fibre. There are three descriptions of Fibee employed The animal, which is manufacture of textiles
in the
:
wool, and catgut; the by cotton, flax, grass, hemp, leaf fibres, bark, and jute and the mineral, which is only represented by asbestos, gold and silver thread, and glass.
represented in alpaca, mohair,
silk,
vegetable, represented
;
Some 360
species of plants produce fibre capable of utili-
sation for cloth or cordage, but the friability of most of them renders their use of comparatively small value, and
only five amongst them are in general requ.est.
Fibre Stitch.
—A
stitch
used in Honiton and other
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Pillow Laces to
down them
mate open as
tlieir centres,
in the
leaves, with a fibre
shown
Honiton spray
running
in the leaves with lioles in
illustrating
Flemish Stitch
To work Hang on eight pairs of Bobbins, and a Gimp upon each side of the Bobbins. Work the leaf in Whole or Cloth Stitch, with a fibi-e running down the centre make the fibre by twisting the workers both (Fig. 404).
:
205
the back, and bring
it up to the front through the first of the two holes close together, and put it down in the second. Bring it up again in the next group of two lioles, in the first,
is
and put
made
it
down
at the back
in the second hole, so that a long stitch
and a short
stitch at the front of the
work. Fasten off by tying the ends of the thread together at the back of the work.
;
before and after the centre stitch
is
made.
For the
first
four rows, twist the workers at this place once, then twist them twice in all the rows until the widest part of the leaf is reached,
when, for two
twist
I'ows,
them three
Then
V
times.
Then return to twisting tliem twice until the narrow part In the last of the leaf is reached, when twist only once.
take thread (No.
1
lenburgh),
three rows, cut off a pair of Bobbins in the first and second rows, and two pairs in the tliii'd row. Tie up the
Gimps and cut them
off.
remaining, stick the end pin
in,
their heads),
turn the Pillow round,
first
slanting the
back of the pat-
tern;
pass the needle
Fm.
400.
first
the thread under the small stitch between the tv/o
hole,
of
and twist the outside pair, but not the second; in this pair tie up all the others very neatly. Take out all the pins except three upon each side (running these down to
at the
up through the
Bobbins make a stitch about it,
Take the four pairs
another
7 Meckand begin
Fil de Tr.ice.
E,nd
slip
and so on all where the two lines of stitches are given; so that a thread caught with small stitches outlines the piece of lace to be worked When that piece of lace is and forms its foundation. holes,
round the pattern, as shown in Pig.
400,
two end pins outwards (be sure to do this), bring the threads in between these end pins, and lay them down over the leaf. Lift the pair in which they are tied up, and pass it round the other threads; take out one of the end pins, but not the one put in last make a Sewing, re-stick the pin, pass the same pair round, make another Sewing in The leaf is next pinhole, tie ujj, and cut the Bobbins off. thus finished on the wrong side, and the right side made
ferent texture to that forming the design, with which the
tidy.
outline of the pattern in laces
;
Fichu.
— A French term signifying a half-sqiiare of any
material cut diagonally, or from corner to corner.
name
This
also denotes a small covering of silk, muslin, lace, or
tulle, for
the nock or shoulders.
Figured Muslin.
—This
name
is
Figure of Eight Knot.
—Take a piece of thread, make
and put the top end of and hold them tight in the left hand. Curl the under thread round and under the upper thread, and pass it into the loop and out on the left hand. Draw the two ends tight, and a knot resembling the numeral eiglit will be made. Fil, The French for thread of any description. it
turning to the
left,
the loop under the lower end,
—
—
Fil de Trace. The name by which the outlines of Needle-made laces are distinguished. The various pieces forming the design are made separately, and, when conpleted, sewn into their proper piosition in the main part of the work. They therefore require a separate thread or foundation before they can be commenced, which is made as follows Take a piece of parchment, and tack it on to paper, and with a needle prick the outline of the lace to be worked through the parchment prick two holes close :
¥il do Trace
Bub
two more, and so
to
fill
in this pricked outline.
Filet Guipiire. Filiere.
name
of the thread of a dif-
— — See Guipuee
d'Aet.
— The French term signifying
measurement of knitting others spade-shaped.
They are made
—This work
a
Some
needles.
Gauge
for the
are round,
of steel.
and
See Gauge.
an imitation of the old arranged in patterns, and held together with Buttonhole Stitches of coloured silks. To work Select a simple star or Vandyke pattern, and trace this upon linen, which back with stiff paper. Tack along the traced lines three to four rows of Filigree Point.
gold laces, and
is
made with
is
lines of gold thread,
:
gold tliread connect these gold threads together with wide ;
Buttonhole, made with white
silk, only putting in keep the thread in position. Make loops of gold thread as an edging to the outside of the work. Make each loop separately, and secure it with an Overcast Stitch to the work, then make another loop close to the first, and secure tliat with an Overcast Stitch. Fill in the ground of the pattern with Baes, ornamented with
apart
suificient stitches to
PicoTS, and work
Wheels, Stars,
Fillings to the pattern. When from the linen foundation.
or
Lace Stitches
finished,
as
untack the lace
— See Bobbins. — An unbleached and very heavy description
Fill Bobbins.
on,
Begin with the thread at
also the
is
—
Filletings.
into the holes a little
white paint, to render them clear to the sight. Then, with a coarse needle and No. 12 Mecklenburgh thread, proceed
are cut at
is sometimes traced, as in Cluny Guipure and Blonde Laces. Filet Erode. Also known as Darned Laces, Guipure See Guiptjee d'Aet. d'Art, and Spiderwork. Filet de Canasier. The French name for Maceame.
;
together, leave a space, then prick until the pattern is outlined.
line
fii'st
pattern, withovit the lace being pulled or dragged.
Book Mu.slins
a loop with
small stitches of the
the back of the parchment, and the outline thread, with the lace attached to it, will then come away from the
usually applied to
decorated at regular intervals by a small raised spot or trefoil leaf. The width of such muslins ranges from 32 inches to 36 inches. clear
finished, the
of
Holland Tape, cut into various
3.T
to 10.
lengths, and numbered There is another striped variety called Stay Tape, employed by tailors to protect selvedges and buttonholes.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
2o6
—
Fillings. These are the various stitches in Needle-made and Pillow Laces that occupy the centres of the sprays and other devices that form the Toile, or design, of the lace. In Needle-made laces these stitches are always surrounded by a raised or flat Oordonnet, which serves as their foundation, and which is made of a series of Buttonhole.
With
the exception of the Wheels, the Fillings in Needle
laces are
formed either of
close Buttonhole, varied with
Knots and Corded
spaces, or with varieties of
open
lines orna-
mented with circles. The varieties of Buttonhole Stitches used as Fillings are ones taken from old Spanish and Yenetian Points, with other stitches taken from Darned
Most of the Fillings in Needle modern Point, and have received
laces or Filet Brode. laces are
now worked
in
names, under which headings they are described, with the exception of Figs. 401, 402, 40.3, which are given as examples. The illustrations give the Buttonhole as dark lines, the open spaces as white squares.
—
To work Fig. 401 First row work 15 Buttonhole, * miss the space of 3, work 21, repeat from * to the end of the row, but finish with 15 Buttonhole. Second row work the whole row :
—
in Buttonhole, carefully
counting the stitches. Third row * miss the space of 3 Buttonhole,
X X X _K x"x"x "x
—
work
3,
miss
repeat from
row
work 15, Fourth
work Sixth row and repeat To work 3,
21, repeat
Pig. iOl.
from
— like the second. all
Fifth
*.
Seventh row
the rows from the
first
—
the first row.
The
own
—
the
and Braid, and are
all
headings.
—
Filoselle (French, Bonrrc cle Sole). A silk thread used in embroidery, composed of the refuse of silk covering the exterior of the cocoon, and other kinds of inferior quality. It has been introduced for decorative needlework within the last fifty years, and has greatly superseded floss silk for general purposes, being less expensive and more easily
kept smooth in the working but it lacks the great gloss of the latter, which is spun from the finest portion of the silk. Filoselle is that portion of the ravelled silk ;
thrown on one side in the filature of the cocoons, which is then carded, spun like cotton or wool, and formed into spun silk. This silk is not only used as thread, but formed into a textile for dresses, scarves, and shawls.
— The
French term
for
is
Deawn Work
—
perfectly even,
and hold the severed parts
lengthwise on the finger of the
first,
row.
Fig. 402 First row work 9 Buttonhole, * miss the space of 3, work 15, repeat from *. Second row work 6 Buttonhole, * miss the space of 3, work 3, miss the space of 3, work 9 Buttonhole, repeat from *. Third row * work 3 Buttonhole, miss the space of 3, work 9, miss 3, repeat from *. Fourth row * miss the space of 3 :
composed of Plaitings, described under their
Fillings in Pillow Laces are
Stitches,
Fine Drawing. The method of Darning adopted by mend broadcloth and such like stuffs. Pare
the third.
— like
—
—
tailors to
FiLiiNGS.
row—like
Fifth
3,
—
the edges
3 Button* miss the space
—
row work work 3, miss 3, work 3, miss 3, work 9 Buttonhole, repeat from *. Sixth row work like fovirth row. Seventh row work like the third row. Eighth row work like the second row. Ninth row work like the first row, and repeat all the rows from
Fil Tir6. (which see).
—work
hole,
of
3,
*.
work 3, miss 3, repeat from *. 12 Buttonhole, * miss the space of 3,
—
—
—
left
hand.
Then pass
the needle (directed from you) through the edge of one piece, and back again (pointed towards you) through the edge of the other. Let in the needle at half the thickness of the cloth, and draw the stitches closely together, so that the edges may meet, yet neither overlap the other,
and carefully avoid ravelling out the thi-eads of the stuff. the work is finished, press it with a hot iron on the wrong side. See Darn. Finger. A measure of length, employed for every
When
—
description of textile for wearing apparel or upholstery, &c.
It
comprises 4k
inches,
and
is
much
in use
by
needlewomen.
—
Fingering. Worsted employed for stockings, sent out by the manufacturers in half pounds, consisting of eight skeins, each weighing an ounce the weight, however, is usually short. Various descriptions are to be had the Scotch in three or four qualities and many colours, including the ingrain shades. There is also German Fingering in many colours, including that known as Heather Welsh Yard Fingering, Peacock Fingering, and other kinds, the names varying according to the fancy of the ;
—
Figs. i02
and
403.
Fillixgs.
;
Buttonhole, work 15 Buttonhole, repeat from *. Fifth row * work 3 Buttonhole, miss the space of 3, work 9,
—
—
miss the space of 3, repeat from *. Sixth row work like the second row. Seventh row work like the first row, and repeat from the first row. To work Fig. 403; Begin with two plain rows. First row * miss the space of 3, work 3, miss the space of 3, work 3, miss the space of 3, work 9, repeat from *.
—
—
Second row— work 3 Buttonhole, * miss the space of 3, work 3, miss 3, work 15, repeat from *. Third row * work 6 Buttonhole, miss the space of 3, repeat from *'. Fovirth row—* work 15 Buttonhole, miss the space of
several manufacturers or shopkeepers.
Fleecy wools may
be had in many colours they are supplied in 31b., 61b., and 121b. bundles. The Scotch Fingering is a loosely spun ;
is sold by the spindle of 61b., and also by the pound and the ounce. The price varies with the quality, of which there are the Middle, Super, Ex. Super, and Ex. Ex. Super qualities. Each skein of the original
worsted yarn, and
Scotch Fingering contains sixty roimds, or 120 yards. It be had in very bright colours for articles of children's
may
wear.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Pinger Shield.
—A
silver
made
appliance
to
fit
the
207
brightly tinted Pish Scales, sewn to the foundation with coloured silks; the stems, veins, tendrils, and other fine
hand, on which materials are laid and held by the thumb, in Plain Sewing. It resembles a ring, one side being an inch wide, and the other quite It is employed to as narrow as an ordinary finger ring. protect the finger from the needle when much hard sewing
traceries, are worked in Satin Stitch with fine chenille, gold thread, or filoselle and the centres to flowers, &c., filled in with French Knots, beads, pearls, or spangles.
has to be done, or the finger has been accidentally hurt.
used.
first finger of llie left
Finishing.
—This word, so far as Plain Sewing
is
con-
cerned, refers to the securing of the thread employed.
As
in beginning
sewing — so two
the
work
—whether
Hemming
or
Over-
in finishing, no knot should be made, but take
stitches in the
same
and
place, one over the other,
then finish by running the needle backwards through the material, so as to be invisible for about half an inch or more. In the same way joinings should be accomplished, so as to avoid the bad habit of making knots. In flannel work, make the back runnings of still greater length, on account of the looseness of the material. Darn in the last thread very carefully, and take a Back Stitch where the last Herringbone Stitch ended, before recommencing the work with the new thread. In Finishing the runnings in darning, leave the thread in loops at each end of every running.
The
term, as applied to matei'ials, might denote the
hemming, or buttonholing of raw edges, or the fringing out of ribbon, linen, or silk, by drawing out the ravelling threads (running across the web), and lightly sewing in the last few strands over and over through the fringing, three or four strands in turning-in, and sewing, or all
;
The Fish Scales have
to be prepared before they are Select the iridescent scales of the carp, perch, or goldfish, and, while quite fresh, detach from the fish by
scraping with a knife from the
them
Draw out a design upon cartridge paper, containing a spi-ay of not very large flowers, and a bird or a butterfly, tints.
and prick out the outlines with a needle. Frame a piece of good velvet, satin, or silk, lay the pattern upon it, and pounce French Chalk through the holes, and go over the dots thus
made with
spaces there
French Knots, made of maroon
Pishev Pur.
— The Fisher
of the genus Weasel,
is
and
a native of Amei'ica, whence upwards of 11,000 of these skins ai'e annually imported to this country. They are
is
larger than those of the Sable, fuller,
and very
beautiful.
and the fur
The
tail is
deeper and long, round, and is
gradually tapering to a point, and is employed for hats, as well as to form a decoration in the national cap worn by the Polish Jews. One skin of the Fisher will suffice to
make a
muff, for which three
required.
The ground
Marten
skins would be
of the fur is dun-coloured.
Those of
the darkest shade are the best; but the darkness of the colour and the depth of the fur depend on the season
when
Then commence
lines of white paint.
work the flowers. For yellow daisies, and other flowera formed with large ojien centres, commence the work from their outside edge. Draw a circle, and sew the Fish scales round this circle; leave between each scale a little less space than one scale will cover; sew the scale to the foundation with coloured silk, bring the needle up from the back, through one of the piunctured holes, and put it down through the other. Sew on a second circle of Fish scales, so that they lay over the first line, and fill in the to
In reference to dressmaking and Mantua makers' work, Finishing denotes the binding of raw-edged seams with narrow sarcenet ribbon, and the removal of tacking threads. In fact, all the last work, not essential to the sowing together of any garment or other article, so as to complete its form, and render it capable of wear and but designed only to render it neat, and to prevent ravelling, may propei'ly be designated Finishing.
steep
them upon
a cushion, and puncture each with two holes, close together, near their base. Make these holes with a needle. Should the scales be all of one tint, colour them in places by mixing Damar varnish with powdered colours of various
depth.
use,
the head;
tail to
in cold water until they are soft, then lay
left.
Fill in the centre of silk or
the daisy with
with
fine cheuiUe.
Small sunflowers are worked in the same manner as daisies, but have four to six circles of scales sewn roimd them before their centres are begun.
Chrysanthemums and half-
with a calyx of green arrasene or chenille, are effective to work they are made with the largest Fish Arrange the Fish scales so that they open out scales. from the calyx all in one direction, and form an irregular let the scales forming the petals overlap half circle each other in the middle of the half circle, bo as to
opened
flowers,
;
;
conceal the stitches that sew the
new
first laid scales
to the
them, and conceal their uniting stitches with stitches of chenille. Hoses are formed as moss rosebuds, with the moss imitated in chenille, or as full fiowers, with the centre petals of Fish scales turning inwards, and the others turning outwards. Rose petals are rounded and shaped by placing large Fish foundation
;
lay
scales over
scales in the middle of the petal,
and small ones on each
side.
Leaves for the Embroidery are formed in two ways. To make the large ones Ai-range Fish scales so that they radiate on each side fi'om a centre vein, with their securing Conceal these with a line stitches upon the centre vein. of gold thread or chenille, laid above them, and secured from the back as in Coitching. Small leaves are made with a Fish scale cut and shaped and caught down with lines of silk passing over them, and into the two holes at their base. Arrange tliese lines as side and centre veins over the whole leaf. Butterflies have the wings made :
the animals are trapped.
Fisherman's Knot.
—Used
in
Square Netting.
See
Netting.
—
Pish Scale Emhroidery. This kind of work is extremely effective as an ornament where it is not liable to friction, and is a variety from ordinary Embroideries. It is
worked upon
silk,
satin, or
velvet foundations,
flower patterns, such as are used in Crewel
Embroidery. flower,
The
Work
from
or Silk
principal parts of the design, such as
leaves, butterflies,
birds,
are covered over with
of
overlapping
Arrange the
Fish scales secnred
with
scales so that they radiate
gold thread.
from the body
of
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
203
Work
body in gold thread and coloured silk, and sew in two heads for eyes. For Birds Work the breast, head, and body with coloured silks, and glue in glass eyes then mate the wings and the tail feathers with the Fish scales the tuttevfly. floss silks,
tlie
over a pad of :
;
Fur
Fitch, Fitchet, or Polecat
— The
Britain.
ground
(Mustela indorius).
a native of Europe, including Great The fur is soft and black, having a rich yellow This but the odour from it is unpleaSLint.
Fitchet
;
can, however,
is
much
be
and the fur made
overcome,
are three descriptions of Flags, those Sea used at sea, on the river, and at school feasts. flags include national, yachting, and ship flags, the colours of which are given in yachting and ship lists.
Flags.— There
are
made
Iiace. Flanders claims to be one of the countries in Europe where Needle and pillow Laces attained celebrity and became articles of commerce. She
with Italy the invention of Pillow Lace, and old Flemish writers assert that Flanders Lace was iTsed even in the fourteenth century, and certainly in the first part of the fifteenth century. However remote the commencement of lacemaking in that country, no other can show such a continuous and successful manufacture, not confined to the making of one lace, but embracing 'many disijutes
beautiful kinds that flourish in the present day, after
available for use.
They
—
Flanders
first
various
of
coloured
buntings, joined
with Mantua makers' hems, and upon this foundation such distinguishing marks as coats of arms, crowns, &c., after having been painted in their proper shades upon white materials, are attached. River flags, together
not being exposed to salt water, are made of
having supported their workers during the disastrous wars of the sixteenth century, and, through religious and political refugees, having introduced the art into many neighbouring States. The principal laces of Flanders are as follows Old Flemish Lace, known as TroUe Kant, an early Pillow Lace distinguished by its grounds, and after which the English Trolly Laces have been named, though they are of much inferior make Brussels, or Point de Flandre, or Point d'Angleterre, and Point Gaze, both of Needle and Pillow, made in the villages round :
:
silk, serge,
Brussels, first
made
in the fifteenth century,
forming them being sewn together, and the distiuguishiug small marks em-
existence in a flourishing condition
broidered in silk upon the coloured foundation. School and festival flags are made of coloured calicoes, and have
made
or flannel, the
different
colours
mottoes or emblems, cut out of gilt paper, gummed on. All flags are made with a wide hem, to admit the pole or cord that keeps them in position. This hem is made at the side for large flags, at the top for long, narrow flags,
and on both
As
is
it
impossible
to
aUow the space necessary
for a
description of all flags, the
lected
as
an example.
It
Union Jack
consists
the
of
is
se-
crosses
of
The George, St. Patrick, and St. Andrew united. ground is blue, with an upright and diagonal red cross suiTOunded by white lines. The usual size is 3 yards The flag is long and 1 yard and 25 inches wide. St.
made
in two ways.
Either the various strips of colour
are cut out and joined together; or the pieces are laid upon red bunting, and sewn down to it, when double sets of pieces are necessary, that both sides of the flag
may
show the quarteriugs. To make Cut a strip of red bunting 3 yards long and 10 inches wide, and lay it down as :
Join on to it, so as to form an ujaright cross, two strips of red bunting, 10 inches wide and 25 inches long, and then join four diagonal strips of red bunting, a centre.
and below the Surround both the crosses in the inside of the flag with an edging of white bunting, 4 inches wide, but do not carry this white edging along the outer edges. Fill in the spaces between the diagonal and straight cross with wedge - shaped pieces 3 inches wide, into the spaces left above
arms of the upright
of
blue
bunting.
cross.
Run
together
the
edges
of
these
and Fell them down, cutting away the red bunting from iinderneath; or cut the same pieces out, and join them on to the back of the red bunting. Hem round the outside of the flag, and add the wide hem or rings of rope on the side where it is to be attached to the pole various
or rope.
strips
of
bunting
with
coarse
worsted,
and
still
in
Mechlin, or Point
made at Antwerps; Lierre, Turnhout Lille, French Flanders Yalenciennes, made at Ypres, Meniu, Alost, Courtrai, and Bruges and Black Blonde Lace, made at Gi'ammont. For the descriptions of these laces and their varieties, see their own headings. de Malines,
;
in
;
;
—
Flannel. A woollen stuff, loosely woven. To be had makes both heavy and light, twilled and plain, white and coloured. Lancashire Flannels have a plain selvedge, a blue tint, and the surface on one side slightly raised. Welsh Flannels have also a bluish shade, and a broad grey selvedge on both sides, and run from 30 inches to 36
—
in various
sides for school flags.
;
A
inches in width.
similar article
is
made
in Lancashire,
equal in quality, and superior in finish. Yorkshire Flannels have a plain selvedge, and are superior to the Lancashire
manufactures. Both sides are alike, and they are in the natural colour of the wool, and improve in appearance
when washed, without being in other i-espects deteriorated. Patent Welsh and Saxony Flannels are of a very fine and superior texture, but are not durable. They are said not These are principally used for and have a long pile on one side only.
to shrink in washing. infants' clothing,
Bath coating is thick-made, with a long nap. The widths run from 4-4, 7-4, to 8-4. Gatjze Flannel is of a very loose, porous texture, and Zephye very fine and delicate, There are likewise being a union of wool and silk. striped Flannels in various colours, of a cloth-like texture.
Cricketing Flannel
is
of the nature of cloth,
natural colour of the wool.
on both
sides.
quality
and
and
of the
It has a plain surface, alike
Blanketing can be had of every variety of
size.
Some Flannels
are milled, some are
coloured or checked. Upwards of fifty-four million yards are annually made in this country. In Ireland, a coarse is manufactured, called Galway, and used by the Irish peasant women for cloaks, &c. this is probably identical with the stuff called Faldynge, of ancient Saxon manufacture, resembling Frieze. Faldj'nge was designed for external wear, and was employed in
description of flannel
;
ANGLO SAXON EMBROIDERY.
CHAIN STITCH EMBROIDERY.
—
;
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. the Middle Ages
eight or nine
boards.
alternately the
foi- bed-covering and cloths for sideChaucer makes two allusions to this material. His "Ship-manne" is said to have been clad {Canterbury Tales) All in a gown of Falding to tho kneo
and
in his " Miller's Tale," the clerk is said to
have
In France and Belgium a superior make of fine twilled Flannel is made, much patronised in this country.
Flaunellette.
4M.
—A
description
of
very
soft
warm
Flap.—In reference to needlework, this term signifies a portion of any material affixed to the dress, or other article,
at one
side,
and
left to
hang
loosely
from
it
may
be employed either for a useful Sometimes a Flap is sewn or a decorative purpose. on a garment to conceal hooks or buttons.
—
It
Flat Bar. These are parts and are made, according to
of the pattern of tlie
knotting
two threads forming the Bar to the See
Macbame.
—
Flat Point. A general term distinguishing laces made without any Raised work, or work in relief, from
Flattened Canvas. of
thread and
— This
cotton,
and
HONITON SPEAT, ILLUSTKATING FLEMISH AND FIBEE STITCH.
Flannel, measuring 28 inches in width.
at the other.
left.
Maceame Knots, worked by
Raised Points.
His presse icovered with a Faldyng red.
Fig.
right or
209
Macrame,
length requirec", with
It differs
textile is
can be had both
much used
in
France.
(See ncit fage.)
from other descriptions of canvas in having
been passed through the cylinders of a flattening machine, for the purpose of rendering it the more suitable for the drawing of designs upon it. These devices are afterwards traced with fine silk or cotton, in the colours to be used in the after working.
Flax.
—This
is
composed of the filaments of the bark,
or fibrous covering of the stem, of a plant of the Linmn genus, or Linum usiicdissiinum, an annual, and a native of
Europe.
From
these
filaments
linen
thread
is
: :
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Tlie thread is prepared as follows: The flax is spun. "Rippled," then "Eetted," "Scutched," and "Hackled." The coarse, entangled fibres, when separated by the Hackle, are called tow, and the hackled Flas called Line; the latter, when sorted according to its degrees
of
fineness,
ready to be spun, and made into cloths
is
For lacelawn, and thread. making, Flas is cultivated iu most European countries, but the Flemish is the best. Flax Canvas. This description of canvas may be procured iu various degrees of fineness and make, one of them being of very fine thread. That known as Flattened linen,
called
cambric,
—
Canvas is of flax combined with cotton. All descriptions Canvas are distinguished by numbers denoting their
of
several degrees
known
of
woven of and hemp-made kinds
or cotton, the woollen
silk, flax,
being generally
the finest
fineness,
Mosaic, irrespective of
as
being
its
not included.
Fleece. before
—The
curly hair, or woollen coat of a sheep, dressed for manufacture into yarn and cloth.
it is
—
Fleecy. Sheep's wool prepared iu loose threads for Darning and Knitting. Being loosely twisted, it has the advantage of not becoming hard and stiff when washed. Its thickness is counted by the threads. The two-thread fleecy is the finest, and is of the same size as the " double The other numbers are, reBerlia wool." spectively, the foui', six, eight, and twelve-thread fleecy. It is less expensive than Berlin wool, and, being rough in quality, is rendered xmsnitable for embroidery work. It may be had in black, white, partridge, various self or uni- colours, and ingrain colours.
Flemish Diamonds.
—These
then do Rope Sewing to the flowers, carry them down one side, making a double Tuen Stitch occasionally as the pinholes are on the inner curve. of the
stem hang on four more pairs
At
the end
and work Whole Stitch across the flower; turn and work a few rows of Half Stitch, sewing one side to the Whole Stitch; then, with five pairs of Bobbins, work Stem Stitch round the triangle, then finish the flower with Half Stitch. To work the smallest half flower Work the stem as in last flower, hang on three pairs of Bobbins, work four rows of Half Stitch, leave those Bobbins; hang on five pairs, at the further end of triangle, work round it, then continue Half Stitch, taking up all the Bobbins, and finish the flower with Work the tendril in Plain Braid or Stem Stitch, it. with one edge only Pearled. The leaves worked with Beanching Fibees [see Beanching Fibees) and in Whole Stitch have two holes made in each side with Innee Peael. These leaves require ten pairs of Bobbins. Fleurette Stitch.— See Point de Tenise. Flenrs de Tulle Nette. This is a French deof Bobbins,
—
scriptive phrase applied to figured Tulle or Net.
—
Flenrs Volants. The general term given to the Pinwork that ornaments the raised Cordonnct in Rose, Spanish, and other Needle-point laces, and which is one of tlie peculiar beauties of the work. The Fleurs Volants are distinguished by the names of Couronnes, Loops, and Crowns, for one description; and Spines, Thorns, Picots, and Knots for the other. Their varieties are shown in Fig. 405, and they are worked as follows
are used as Fillings to
Honiton Lace, and consist of the holes made in Flemish Stitch being arranged as diamonds of four, instead of being scattered about the pattern.
See
Flemish Stitch.
—
Flemish. Point, A Guipure Lace, also known as Point de Brabant, and described under Guipuee Laces (which
see).
Flemish Stitch.— One
of
the Fillings in Honiton
Lace, and illustrated in Fig. 404 (page 209) in the leaves dotted with holes. To work Work the open fibre down to the tip of the leaf (see Fibee Stitch) with six pairs :
Bobbins, then hang on four more two extra pairs where the leaf widens. of
of (see
the
leaf
separately in
pairs,
Work
and add each side
Whole
CioQi Braid, in Beaids), and,
or Cloth Stitch when a hole is reached,
twist the worker Bobbins twice, stick a pin below them, work to the end, and, when the hole is reached in the
return row, twist the passive Bobbins on each side of Bobbins twice as it at once, and twist the working Make the holes close tothey pass below the pin. gether, or at a distance
the pattern.
from each other according to
To work the
rest of Fig. 404
in Buckle Stitch, the Shadow Stitch, and the half
large
stems
Hale
or
:
Work
open flower
the in
open flowers
For the flower covered with tendrils, work in Half Stitch, and first work the tendril that touches the leaf, and then the one running up to the stem. In the next sized half flower, work down the stem and round the circle in Plain Beaid [see BkaidsJ, as follows
:
Fio.
-105.
Lace iLLFSTEiiisa rLEUES Volants.
iu the centre of design is trimmed with Couronnes ornamented with Spines. To work Fill the needle with fine lace thread, fasten it on at the left side of round, and make a small loop into the CoEdonnet, run the needle back underneath to the place from which the thread starts, and Buttonhole about one-third of the loop. Take a pin, and put it in at a short distance from the thread, the length the Spine is to be, pass the thread round the pin, and make three Buttonholes into the main loop; repeat this Pin-
The round
:
;
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. WOEK
make
to
twice,
the
Spines
tliree
seen on
tlie
Couronnes, then Buttonhole over the rest of the loop. The single Spines that trim the three centre scallops are worked before the pattern is joined together.
them
Woik
either with a single loop of thread fastened into
and the working thread put hack into the loop and drawn up, or wind the cotton several times round the needle, push the needle through the Cordonnet, The Couronnes trimming the and draw up tightly. the Cordonnet,
enter edge of the design are larger than those ornaMake the loop menting the round, and are made thus into the Cordonnet as before, but pass it over a small knitting pin, and run the thread back round the knitting pin instead of underneath the work, so that the foundation for the Couronne is rather thicker then Buttonhole the loop, and ornament it with three Spines. For the Fleurs Volants or the rest of the work Make Covironnes unornamented with Spines, but with two Spines between each Couronne. In all these stitches the Buttonhole must be both tight and even, as, unless this is done, the stitches become loose the first time the lace is cleaned, and the appearance of the work is destroyed. Flock. This word is radically the same as Flake, and is applied to hair, the " f " being dropped, and the tuft or curl termed a "lock." Hence, a bed stufEed with pieces :
;
:
—
or tufts of wool
is
designated a Flock bed.
—
Florence. This dress stufi is also known as Florentine, and is a description of Corded Barege or Grenadine. It is to be had both in black and colours, and is 26 inches in width. There is also a thin description of Taffeta, fabricated at Lyonfe, Avignon, and Zurich, which had its origin at Florence, and thence derived its name. Florentine. A material made for gentlemen's waistcoats, but when in plain colours it is sometimes fashionable for ladies' dresses. It is to be had for the former purpose both figured and striped, as well as plain. It is a twilled silk, thicker than Florence, which latter is, however, sometimes called by the same name. Florentine Lace. The manufacture of Raised Needle
—
securing stitches of silk brought from the back of the and returned to the back. Floss silk is also used for the high lights in Crewel and Silk Embroideries, but its place is frequently taken by material, passed over the floss,
Filoselle, or ravelled silk, floss.
To work:
which is stronger in fibre than Select for a pattern a floral design of
Satin Stitch Embroidery trace this upon a thin silk or thin merino or net foundation, and frame the material in an Embeoideey Frame. Carefully wind small portions of Floss silk upon separate cards, take a short length of ;
one of these, smooth it down with the fingers, thread it through a large-eyed needle, and fill in the pattern with flat Satin Stitch. Bring the stitch up at one side of an outline leaf or petal, and put it down at the other, to cover the ground with as few stitches as possible. Make holes with a large needle to bring the Floss through, should it at all fray in its backward and forward movement, and use very short strands of floss. Embroidery with Floss upon net and thin materials can be worked over the hand, but it has a much better effect when worked in a frame.
Floss laid witli Passing.— A term used in Church Embroidery to denote that floss silk is laid down upon some part of the design, and kept into jjlace with a gold coi'd or Passing Couched down upon it. See CotrcHiNG.
Floss Silk.— Anciently
called Sleine, or Sleided silk.
It is the soft external covering of the silkworm's cocoon,
and downy in qviality, and is carded, spun, and The English is superior to the French. This silk is made of the finest part of the cocoon, and does not undergo the process of twisting, and must not ravelled
made
into hanks.
be confounded with Filoselle. silk
by Shakespeare Thou
Fldts.
idle,
Allusion
is
made
to Floss
:
immaterial skein of sleided
— Troilus
silk.
and
Cressida.
—A French term, used to signify successive loops of ribbon or lace, arranged to lie
over-lapping one another in rows, so as to resemble the flow of small
—
waves, following closely on
the
Points in Florence flourished during the earlier part of the sixteenth century, mention being made of Florentine
decadence of their predecessors. What is called a Flot-bow is
lace having
been brought into France by the sister of and of Henry VIII. granting privileges of importation into England to two Florentine merchants but since these early chronicles, Florentine lace has become merged into Italian lace, and no particular account taken
made
Francis
idea
of
I.
;
it.
—
A French term, synonymous with the descripword Brochi when applied to silk and satin stuffs, and signifying flowered. The original term denoted the small blossoms clustered together in compound flowers and grasses, such as those that compose laurestina and Floret.
tive
heliotrope blooms.
—
Flounce. Fig. iOS.
of
Fl6t3.
plaited along one side,
foiindation,
and fastened down with
o\ir
term
used to
more or
less wide,
any kind of material
suffi-
and
left
loose
on the other.
It
should be attached to the dress, or other article which it is designed to decorate, on the gathered side, and may be cut either on the straight or the bias way of the stuff. In the fourteenth century it was called a Frounce, and in the reigns of William and Mary a puckered flounce or plaited border of a dress used to be called a Furbelow.
specially adapted for
flat
A good
style.
ciently slight to be gathered or
England, because of the delicacy of floss silk, it is cliiefly used in large quantities in Church Embroidery, and there
upon a
—A
signify a strip,
Flounce.
laid
same
be gathered from
illustration (Fig. 406).
Floss Embroidery. The most beautiful description of work is made in India, the natives of that country being celebrated for their skill in Embroidery with white or coloured floss upon richly tinted cloths and silks. In this
after the
may
This term was a corruption of Falbala, the Spanish for
FlonrisMug Thread.—A flax-made textures.
flat,
silky,
linen
thread,
mending Damask, Linen, and most It is sold by the skein and the oimce, i;
E 2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
2I2
from Nos. 4 to
in qvialities varying sizes are 4,
and
5,
20,
but the most useful
One golden brown
6.
variety,
known
Netted Guipure; in emWoidery, imparting almost the sheen of silk when used It is also called Flax Thread. in combination with wools. Flowers (Artificial). These are manufactured of as
Luxembourg Thread,
employed
is
iu
are very effective
colours,
diiferent
others, in
—
ribbon, velvet, feathers, wax, paper, the pith of plants, dyed grasses, satin, mother-o'-pearl, wings of beetles and
other insects, glass, hair, muslin, Ijeads, porcelain, shells, and thin sheets of whalebone, &c. Most of these materials are employed in the flowers manufactured for wear in
millinery and dress, dyes of
all
kinds being utilised to
supplement the natural colours. The Chinese, Romans, and South American Indians excelled in the art from the French have for some years very remote times past been pre-eminent in it; but our own manufac;
now produce very
turers can
superior descriptions, as like-
wise can those of Austria, Portugal, Sweden, Mexico, and Artificial flowers composed of Seal-sliin other parts. Fur, in beautifully variegated tints, and designed for use In in millinery, have been recently produced at Zurich.
Auvergne, delicate glass flowers are manufactured for articles of wear, such as brooches, pins, and other decoraIn the great Exhibition of 18.51, a tions for the hail'. great variety of flowers was contributed from Sweden, Madeira, Hamburgh, the Channel Islands, and our Colonies, besides those places already named.
Fluted Ruche. Buche
of
0.
— Otherwise called by the French name It is
la Vielle.
composed of single Box-pleats
stitched to a certain depth inwards, so as to leave the edges of the pleats loose.
of each pleat,
if
About half-an-inch
is
the usual width
the material be muslin or tarlatan, and
such thin fabrics, and from half-an-iuch to one inch for In the first-named materials, the raw edges may be snipped into small points, to resemble " Pinking," by tacking several strips together, and cutting through all simultaneously. In reference to silk, it is necessary to put in a book muslin lining of the same width as the Ruche when finished (including the headings), and the silk must be folded over the edges of the muslin to the depth of the silk.
width of the
Flutings. flute,
fluting.
— Piping
or
ornaments, shaped as a
frill
an organ, as
will
—
is
sewn under
Fig. 407.
Fluiix
the edge of a dress, or coat, at the button side of the opening, extending sufficiently far beyond it as to underlie the buttonholes at their extreme ends.
The Flt thus serves the purpose
of concealing the
It is called a Fly attached on one side on the other.
dress underneath the coat or bodice.
because, like a Flag, or Pennon, only,
and
is
allowed to
Fly Fringe.'— A kind floss silk
it is
fly loose
of fringe
—
Folds,
Gathering any part
The
draping
by Pleating
produced
or
on each end
at the waist of a skirt; or the flat plaits
of a skirt, bodice, or sleeve, secured at
them in place or the doubling of any cloth so that one part shall lie over another. Fond. Identical with Champ, Entoilage, and Treille, terms by which the groundwork of lace, whether of Needle or Pillow, is distinguished from the Toile, or pattern, which it surrounds and supports. These grormds are divided into Fonds Claire, Brides Claire, and Brides Ornees. The Fonds claire include the Reseau, or net-patterned grounds, and varieties of the same, such as Dame Joan, Honeycomb, and Star grounds; the Brides claire are the simple Buttonhole Bars that connect the various parts of a detached pattern together; and the Brides Ornees, the same Bars, profusely ornamented with Picots and Spines, and shown in Devonia Ground. Fond Clair.— See Fond. The term by which lacemakers distinFondeuse. to the dress to keep
;
—
—
guish the workers
who attach the
Fond, or Ground. Fool's Crochet.
—A
Toile, or pattern, to the
name sometimes given
to Tricot.
Crochet.
See
Foot.— See Stocking Knitting. Footing.
—A term
employed in the Knitting of stockworn out, have to be replaced by others knitted on to the original legs. The word is also known as Engrelure, and is used by laceworkers to distinguish the edge of the Lace that is sewn to the dress from the scalloped and unattached edge. The Footing is sometimes worked with the rest of the design, and at others as a separate narrow lace, being then sewn on to the main part. ings,
when the
feet of the latter, having been
—
Forfars. A coarse, heavy description of linen cloth, of nnbleached flax, and varying in width from 32
made
inches to 75 inches.
Foulard.—A washing
silk,
originally
made
in India, of
which there is a fair imitation manufactured at Lyons and Avignon. It is a very light material, and is printed iu colours on black and white grounds. Although the Indian is the superior article in make and consistency, a com-
—
be seen on refer-
which
was a fashionable trimming
the French designs and colours are the most elegant. The width varies from 27 inches to 30 inches. Foulardine. An imitation of Foulard produced in cotton, of a very soft make, for women's dresses. Foulardine is now little to be seen, and is almost out of date,
ence to our illustration (Fig. 407). Fly. The term used to denote a strip of material
It
for ladies' dresses in the reign of George III.
bination of yellow and red being the favourite design,
applied to dress, the latter being
gathered at both ends with great evenness and regularity. A collection of Fltjtings resemble the pipes of
the centre of the edging.
composed of tufts of
attached to a cord of gimp, which passes along
Sateen (which see) having superseded it. Foule Cashmere or Cloth. An all-wool
—
of a
coarse description,
imitation.
width, and
the
It measures is
called
from 24 inches to 26 inches in
used as a dress material.
Foule Serge (which
Foule Serge. Estamiue. all-wool
— This
It is softer
than
see).
material
is
sometimes
a heavier and much rougher than the Foule Cashmere, and
It is of
twill
twill textile,
Cashmere, but only an
251 inches to 27 inches in width. material.
called
make is
of
from
It is used as a dress
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
— —
Used
Crochet as the com-
Foundation Cliaiu. mencement to all pattern;. See Ceochet. Foundation Muslin. A very coarse description of It is Mnslin, of very open make, stiffened with gum. employed for stiffening dresses, and may he had in black and white. Foundation Ifet. A coarse quality of Net, made with large meshes, gummed, and employed for stiff foundations in millinery and dressmaking. It is to be had in black and white, and measures from 27 inches to 30 inches in in
—
width.
—
Foundation Stitch. Used To work ber of Point de Beuxelles and Modern Point.
:
—
in ancient Needle
First row
—work
Lace
a num-
stitches close together.*
Second row take the thread back frcun right to left, to form a Bar, and fasten. Third row work close Point de Brnxelles stitches over the thread, and piat the needle in between each of the stitches in the first row. Repeat from * until the space is filled in. Fox Pur. Besides the common animal preserved for
—
—
sport, several other varieties are valuable for their skins.
The most costly skins are obtained from the Arctic, or silver, and the black fox (C Lagojjus and C. Argentatus). The "crossed" fox [C. dccussatiis) and the red fox (C Fulvus) supply linings for cloaks and collars Silver ;
and blue fox furs are employed for women's dress, as well as for rugs and robes for sleighs. Red fox skins measm-e 1-1 inches by 28 inches, and all other varieties will be found of much' the same size. To give an idea of the value of some of these skins, it may be observed that as much as £100 has been given, in London, for one of exceptional beauty; and that the Impei-ial pelisse of the Czar, exhibited in 1851, and made of the black nocks of the Silver Fox, was valued at £3500.
:
white or coloured fleecy wool, and tie its end round the first peg on the left-hand side of the long side of the frame, with the short side of the several large skeins
of
frame without a peg behind it. Take the wool, and twist it once round the next peg, pass the wool on the inside of the frame to the third peg, and twist it once round that. Twist the wool once round all the pegs on the three sides, always passing it from peg to peg on the inside. For the next row, twist the wool once round the last peg worked, then, with the thumb and first finger, pick up the loop on that peg made in the first row, and draw it over the loop just made, and off the peg, leaving the last loop on the peg, and the first hanging down inside the frame. Work the second and all following rows in this way until the length of scarf or petticoat is made. For the last row, make the loop on the peg,
and draw the loop on it over the new loop as before for the first peg for the second, make the loop on the peg, draw the loop already there over it as before, and then put the loop from the first peg on to the second (thus leaving the first empty), drawing the loop on that peg over it. Work this second stitch until all the stitches are secured, then make a knot in the wool, and Crochet the end into the work. Work loosely, and ;
be careful to have a long piece of wool for the last row. of thick fieeoy wool, or -Jib. of thin fleecy, makes a
A Jib.
scarf, leaving sufficient
wool for a tassel at each end.
Frame Tape. — This
is a stout, half- bleached linen but there is one called by the same name, consisting of a union of linen and cotton, which is much
tape;
in request.
Knitting'.— A description of Frame Work when finished, has the appearance of Knitting. It is made upon a frame of the shape shown in Fig. 408, The length of the frame regulates the width of the work
Frame
213
The work has the appearance of very loose stocking knitting. The hollow space in the centre of the frame receives the work as it is formed, and thus keeps it out of the way of the new rows. To work Wind up into balls
to
which,
The distinguishing
the loom on which
it is
Frame Work. —This Metier,
is
prefix,
woven.
borders can be
refers
Travail an upon a flat, solid required. Mats and their
work, also called
formed with wools and
•
wooden Frame cut
"Frame,"
See Tape.
to the size
made upon
it
silk
without joins, but larger
worked in squares, and sewn together when finished. The materials necessary are, the wooden frame, brass-headed small nails or stout pins. Saxony or Shetland wool in -J ounce skeins, filoselles, and a rug needle. To work Draw upon a sheet of thin paper, the
articles require to be
:
size of the frame, a
frames of various sizes can be procured. The most useful one is m-ido of two pieces of wood, 14 inches long by 4 inches high and 1 inch thick, and two short pieces, 4 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 1 inch thick. These pieces are
hollow
spliced together at their corners,
space
is
left
inside
the frame,
so
that a
and pegs are
fastened upon three sides, round the upper part of the frame. Twenty-four pegs, each 2 inches in height, are required for each long side, and one or two for one of
the short sides, the other (not visible in the illustration) being left without any pegs.
number
of horizontal lines a quarter
an inch apart, and cross these with upright linos the same distance apart, so arranged that the middle line wiU come in the exact centre of the frame. Paste this paper round its edges on to the frame, and knock the brass nails in, so that they head every line. Take two of the 5 ounce skeins of wool, and wind the two ends together as a double thread upon one ball, and be careful that the skeins are free from joins. Tie the end of this doiibled wool round the toi3 nail, at the left-hand comer, then pass it without twisting to the nail below it on the left-hand side of the frame (see Fig. 409, p. 214); then cross the frame with it to the peg at the top of the frame next to the one it was tied to, run it along to the third peg, then cross the frame with it to the thii-d peg of
;;
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
214
on the side, run it along to the fourth, and cross the frame again with it to the fourth peg on the top line. Continue in this way, guided by the" illustration, until the first set of diagonal lines is made, and crossed by the second. When finished, do not cut off the wool, but make the edge shown in Fig. 410 with it. Twist the
the Cross Stitches must be placed exactly over the junction of the traced lines.
Carry the wool from one stitch to
the other, and cover the wool Cross Stitch with one of filoselle
Fig. 411
when is
all
another pattern made in the same frame. as before on paper, and fastened
The squares are traced
Fig. 411.
into the stitch.
Then return
to the centre,
and make
;
;
the wool in one of these squares up and make a Cross Stitch there, thus forming a Work all the stars in the same way. The border of Star. fringe for both these mats is the same, and is shown in It requires to be made upon a long narrow Fig. 412. frame, but a straight strip of wood will answer all Draw the squares upon the paper, the requirements. make the lines half an inch, and not a quarter of an inch, apart paste the paper on, and fasten the nails in at the end of these lines, round the bottom and two sides of the frame, and then round the top \\ inches from the edge. Fasten a second row of nails, a quarter of an inch apart, at the edge of the frame, and two nails the same distance apart upon each side. Take four skeins of thick wool, or eight of thin, and wind them together, and then lay them over the frame in diagonal lines, as before, round the inner line of pegs at the top, and round the other three edges at the sides. Be careful that the wool wound round the edge at the bottom of the frame, and that will form the end of the fringe, is put round a peg and run up into the next diagonal line at once, and not carried on from peg to peg and do not let the wool on the right-hand side of the frame, where the fringe will be continued, be cut off, but wound up out of the way. Secure the diagonal lines where they cross in diamonds, with a Cross Stitch made with fine twine, and commence the upper edge. Lay three horizontal lines of filoselle, fasten them into the side pegs, and take the fine wool and twist it round the upper and lower row oE the
draw
all
centre,
;
Tig. 410.
Feiue Woke.
Thread a rug needle with a contrasting shade of wool to the one already used, and secure the horizontal and upright lines where they cross on the paper pattern with a Ceoss Stitch, thus forming the diamond pattern shown in Fig. 410. The effect of the work depends upon the regularity of these diamonds, so the diamond pattern.
Frame Wokk.
and the wool
is doubled; two colours, one light and one dark, are used in the groundwork, the light colour to form the stars, the dark the diamonds and squares. The light wool is put diagonally round the pegs, and fills in the centre outside squares the dark wool fills in the middle square, and the four corner outside squares the straight lines of dark wool are arranged last. Make the edge as before, and secure the diamonds and the straight lines with a Cross Stitch, as in the first pattern leave the squares holding the light wool untouched, then
into the frame,
wool over the front part of one nail, and then round the back of the next nail, and so carry it along the edge of the frame and back again, putting it inside in the second row where it was outside in the first row. To secure these lines, and also the ones across the frame, thread the wool into the rug needle, and make a loose Buttonhole at every peg, taking all the wool at that place
made
the diamonds are secured.
into its
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. pegs, putting in extra pegs in
those in
tlie
tlae
Secure these and
upper.
with a Cross Stitch of
filoselle.
lower row to matcli tlie horizontal lines
Make
the fluffy balls
2T5
It should be scraped, and the powder rubbed into the spot with the finger, left there for some hours, and then shaken or brushed off. When applied to silk, it should be rubbed on the wrong
and
light coloured silks.
fine
side.
employed for pouncing through the Embroidery patterns, for the purpose of transferring their outlines to velvet, cloth, and serge materials. To use Select white French chalk, grind it to a fine powder, and enclose in a coarse muslin bag. Firmly press it through the holes in the pattern, and remove the pattern, when a number of fine dots will be left upon Take a sable brush, filled with Chinese the material. white mixed with size, and make lines of paint over these dots, so as to connect them together, and so mark the
French Chalk
holes
made
is
also
in pricked
:
Coloured chalks may also be had. very fine make of Basket-
outlines of the pattern.
French Fa^on Flannel.— A woven
had
twilled Flannel, to be
31 inches in width, and
is
in various colours.
It is
designed for children's dress,
such as pelisses and hoods. Fig.
French Foul6.— A
Trame Woee Fringe.
"112.
material,
shown in Kg. 412, by cutting the wool round the crosses made of twine, cut the upper four threads, and leave the under four as a support to the
balls.
produced in
felted cloth, being
twilled dress-
wool, measuring 24 inches in
all
width,
and
plain colours.
all
French Heel.— See Stocking Knitting. French Hem.—A description of Hem employed
Frame Worlc. This second kind of Frame Work is known as Frame Knitting, and is described imder that
for the finishing of Flounces, in lieu of employing a silk binding, and especially suitable for such materials as Mohair and
heading.
Alpaca.
—
rrange Gi'ill6e.— The latter word (Grillee) is descriptive French for broiled or baked, and applied to a crimped Silk Fringe, probably so
of the fringe, being the
thus
may be
waved by means which
it is
fineness.
It
in
of heat as well as of pressure. The widths made are various, and likewise the degrees of is worn in mourning as well as out of it,
because the crimping has somewhat of the appearance but it may also be had in colours, and is likeof crape ;
known
wise
description of
Crimping
as
fringe,
heading like network, Grill like
a
There is another from having an open signifying a grating, made
Fringe.
so called
—
way, that it may make the Hem of double not to lose the appearance of a hollow roll.
Pray. To ravel out a piece of stuff, so as to produce a kind of fringe, by drawing out threads of the warp from
wide as
the weft.
that the
Also, to rub or scrape the face or border of
textile, so as to injure it
French Camlbric. fine
in quality,
any
by removing the nap.
—A very
and very
superior
silky in
make
appearance.
It
is
imported in boxes of twenty-five pieces, each containing 74 yai'ds, in widths of finch or |inch. It is a comparatively costly material. French cambric handkerchiefs may be had in three diiferent widths, and may be bought by the yard, from the piece of 24 inches in width.
French Canvas. — The
material so
named
is
a descrip-
tion of Grenadine, of a stout, wiry character, varying in pattern,
width.
and measuring from 24 inches to 26 inches in It is a dress material, and of excellent wearing
quality.
It
to be
when
variety of indurated Talc, in masses
scales, of
a pearly white or gi'ey colour.
much resembles Soapstone and
for removing spots of grease
Jade, and is employed from cloth of all kinds,
Hem: Cut
stuff, so
as
the Flounce as
finished, with the addition of
Hem, and also the depth Then cut off this Hem and its
I inch for turnings used in the
Hem
is
to be.
silk fold all
upside
four raw edges
edge of the
;
line it with leno,
down on the
hem
and run the piping or
right side of the
may be laid together;
then
Hem,
so that
Run the other
to the edge of the flounce, placing the
right side of the former to the
wrong
side of the latter,
so that the joining is enclosed inside the
Hem, when
it is
turned over on the face of the flounce, pinned in place, and sewn to it by Running along on the ridge made by the cording. This is done on the inside of the flounce, by feeling the ridge. The Hem must not be pulled iip to its whole extent, as the actual edge of it must be of double material, and betray no signs of the join, which is i inch up on the inside. It is this inch, and J inch used for joining the silk to it, and i inch for the join of the Hem to the flounce, which uses the 1 inch extra which was allotted to the Hem, in detaching from the flounce. The Hem now really projecting 4 inch beyond the depth which the ?<
French Chalk. —A composed of small
a double French
it is
1 inch for turnings
of cambric,
right side of the
and turn the top edge down, also towards you, so that its inside shows. The piece so turned down must measure if inch for sUk, and 1 inch for stuiis that fray. Then make a close Running, using an inappreciable quantity of the turned-down doubled edge that is over the left hand, and when the whole has been Run, turn the floimce wrong side towards you, and Fell down the False Hem on the line of Running just made. The raw edge of the Hem must be turned in nearly half
To make
lattice.
made thus: Hold the
It is
flounce towards you,
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
2l6
was given, will be accounted foi' by i inch of having been used at the join below, and the other
flounce it
stitch largely used in all kinds of
Embroidery
to fill in the centres of flowers, and in old Crewel "Work to represent the foliage of trees. See Embeoideey Stitches. French. Lace. France, like Flanders, has for centuries directed much attention to Lace, the manufacture of which has been the support of many thousands of its
—
Before
inhabitants.
Colbert, in
for Raised Satin
See Satin Stitch.
French Point. —A name by which
\ inch for the turning at the top.
French Knot. —A
French Flnmetis. —The French term Stitch.
1G65,
established
his
celebrated Alen^on, or Point de France, at Alen^on, thei'e existed a large and flourishing community of laceworkers in various districts, who made Bisette, Gueuse, Mignon-
sometimes
French Quilting.
lace
Alen(;'on
is
Alencon.
See
called.
—A variety of Quilting (which
see).
and superior
de-
It is also a variety of
Pique of a
fine
measuring 28 inches in width. It may be had in different patterns, the price varying according to the cjuality, and is employed for children's dress, pelisses, &c. See Pique. It is also known as Marcella. scription,
—
French Stitch. See Tatting. French Twill. — Although called
ette, Point Coupe and Point de Paris laces, besides imitating the Italian and Spanish Needle-points. These
French, this is an English-made dress material, a variety of French Merino, It is of to be had in various qualities and in all colours. double width, and is suitable for servants' dresses.
workers rebelled against the power granted to the Royal manufacturers, of appropriating the best lacemakers of
Frieze. A napped coating, of which the right side is covered with little tufts, or burra, produced by a machine.
any
A kind of
woollen cloth, or baise, which we find mentioned
by writers
of the sixteenth century.
district,
and obtained, as a compron ise, the concession had been selected, the others
after 200 workers
that,
might keep to their own trades. From the time of Colbert the laces made in France have been as follows Alencon, :
the chief of all, a Needle-point considered to rival the Needle-points of Brussels, which has flourished from the time of its establishment until the present day, being still
made
—
It is
much employed
for men's clothing, especially in Ireland.
In allusion to
Henry VIII. (Queen France), Charles Brandon applied it to the
his marriage with the sister
Dowager
of
well-known verse: Cloth of gold do not despise
Bayeux, but no longer at Alencon; Argentan,
at
To match
coeval with Alencon, a different lace, but often confounded
with the latter, and of very great beauty this is no longer manufactured, the art having died out during the Revolution black and white Blonde silk laces, made, during the eighteenth century, at Bayeux, Caen, and Chantilly;
making
the black
of
the
made
white
made
still
is
ceased
at Bjiyeux, but the
about thiity years
ago.
French Flanders in the sixteenth century, and a variety of Lille, made at Arras and Mirecourt, in which latter city it still flourishes; a Guipuie resembling Brussels and Honiton Guipures; Point de Paris and Point d'Espagne, made round Paris in the eighteenth century while in Normandy, from Arras to Lille
lace,
in
;
Malo, laces in imitation of Point de Paris, Mechlin, Brussels, and Valenciennes, were largely made from the beginning of the sixteenth century until some thirty years St.
ago,
when
the
demand
of Valenciennes, which
for
them
is still
failed, with the exception manufactured. Dieppe and
thyself with cloth of friza
j
Cloth of frize be not too bold
That thou art matched to cloth
;
;
of
of gold.
Frieze was originally a woollen cloth or stuff, introduced
from Friesland; scriptive one,
at
the
same
the
Welsh
name
time, the
Ffris, signifying
and the Old English, and Irish French Friser, signifying " to curl. cloth,"
is
a de-
"the nap of
Frise,
and the
—
Frilled Elastics. These articles are made of Indiarubber encased in cotton, from 5 inch and f inch to 1 inch in width, and have a small frilled edge on one or both sides. They may be had in black and coloured silks,
and are employed, amongst other
or suspenders for stockings. They containing 12 yards or 24 yards.
Frills
and
Frilling.
like very small flounces,
uses,
as garters
may be had
in lengths
— Ornamental
borderings, formed which may be made of the same
Havre are known for their narrow Petit Poussin, Ave Maria, and Point de Dieppe laces, also for the Dentelle a la Vierge, or old Normandy lace; but none of these are now made in sufficient quantities to constitute a manufacture, and the art is gradually becoming extinct. For a description of these laces see their various headings.
French Merino. — This
cloth
is
manufactured of very
superior wool from the Merino sheep, and has the same
appearance on both sides. The twill is exceedingly fine it be had in all colours, and of double width. Some years ago French Merinos greatly excelled our own manufactures, but at the present time we produce them of equal ;
is to
and many are sent to France, reshipped to this country, and sold to the public as French. Those
Fig. 413.
A
Whipfed Frillikq.
quality,
of the best quality
cashmeres.
may
easily be
mistaken for genuine
material as the dress to be trimmed, or the furniture covering. They may also be made of a different material.
Those sold ready-made are of cambric, muslin,
lace,
and
ARRASENE UPON PLUSH.
GOLD THREAD UPON PLUSH.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. ribbon, and are usually of machine manufacture. Formerly sbirt fronts
and
sleeves were
ornamented with cambric and
and the underclothing of women likewise. Frills of great depth, and three or four-fold, edged with narrow lace, were worn round the throat, both by men and women, separately from the shirt or chemise, as frequently represented in Dutch and Flemish pictures. deep lace
raffles or frills,
217
their own work, that they are described under their own headings the other descriptions are used indifferently in Embroidery, Crochet, and Wool work, and are as follows
from
;
Ball Fringe.
—Take
a skein of single Berlin wool or
and cuffs, with an embroidery pattern and edge, machine or hand-made. In making a frilling for any under garment, it should be Whipped, as in the illustration (Fig. 413). The amount of fulness to be allowed is half as much again as the space on which it is to be sewn
it in half fasten it with a knot end of a long thread of gold cord, purse silk, or it down coloured wool, which bring three-quarters of an inch along the skein loop it over the skein, and knot it into the loop, then carry the thread down three-quarters of an inch, and loop it again over the skein and knot the loop make these loops at even distances apart until the skein is used up. Take a sharp pair of scissors, and cut the wool between the loops, cutting all the skein of wool, and only
—that is, for example, li yards of material to be Gathered up as Frilling for 1 yard of space to be supplied with it.
over the loop into
A metaphorical significance was
material, allowing
Frilling
is
also
sold for the latter purpose, as well as
for collars
once given to Frilling by Sydney Smith, who used it as implying a florid style of " Mr. has good sense, but I never knew speech a man so entirely without frill."
filoselle,
double
and cut
it,
;
to one
;
leaving the looped single thread; little it
to
round
fluff
balls.
hang down
Sew
these cut pieces the fringe to the
to the length of three
or four balls.
:
—
This is made with two large bone and with coarse wool. Make a six or twelve Foundation Chain, according to the depth of Fringe required. First row put the wool round the hook to make a stitch, and then work the next two stitches; when finished, cross the last worked stitch over the first, and let the first down, retaining only the last worked stitch on the hook wool round the hook, woi'k the two next stitches, cross them over each other, and drop one as Second row before, and so on until the row is finished. turn the work, hold it in the left hand, and pick up the with the second hook, making second hook. Work back the same stitches, but using the made stitch of last row Crochet Fringe.
Tricot needles,
Fringe.—Fringe
is
a decorative bordering, consisting
or twisted threads, single or many, and composed of silk, cotton, wool, gold or silver twist, fastened on one side into a braid or heading, by which it is attached to dress or furniture. Those descriptions which are in general use for the latter purpose vary from 1h inches deep to 4 inches, and are of three kinds, viz., plain head, plain head and bullion, and gimp head those for dresses are called fancy fringes, and are made of silk or worsted, from of loose
;
4 inch to 2 inches or 3 inches in width. are classified by the trade as follows
Common
fringes
Cotton bvillion fringes are of a heavy make, and sold in widths from 3 inches to 12 inches, and chiefly used for bedroom the lengths run to 24 yards or 36 yards. furniture German fringe, of white cotton, made in various fancy patterns their widths run from li inches to 3 inches, and they are sold in lengths of 36 yards they are vised for bhnds and bed furniture. Toilet fringes are likewise of white cotton, their widths being from f inch to 2 inches, and are sold in pieces of 36 yards they consist of various :
;
;
—
;
:
— bullion,
Geillee
is
loop,
star,
plain,
and open.
another description (which
Fkange
see).
row-
using the first hook to work with. Foui'th row like the second row, using the second hook work until the proper length of fringe is made, then unravel half the stitches to form a series of loops at one side. like the first,
;
—
;
kinds
Third
as one of the crossed stitches of this row.
Fringe Made Over a Mesh. Take a large wide mesh, or a strip of wood, according to the size required, and single Berlin wool or Crochet cotton. With a crochet hook make a Chain, then pass the wool round the mesh, and draw it
through the loop of the Chain on the hook, pass it again round the mesh, and draw it thi-ough the Chain on the hook, make 1 Chain, and pass the hook through the first Chain made. Repeat the stitch from the commencement. The single Chains are necessary to prevent the long loops formed on the mesh becoming irregular when the mesh is withdrawn. A variety of this fringe is made by ha"s-ing the loops twice the length, and knotting them together as
Detached borders are added to most pieces of Fancy work when the main part is completed. Ancient fringes were formed by imravelling the material, drawing away the threads one way of the stuff, and knotting the left These fringed ends to threads into various patterns. garments were the earliest description of knotted lace, and are frequently mentioned by old chroniclers; and as civilisation advanced, gold and coloured silk threads were introduced into the threads of the material, and these were most elaborately tied together, and enriched with fancy stitches. At the present time, the material, where it will allow of it, is still drawn away, and the threads that are left secured with a line of Buttonhole or Fancy Hem for a simple f)'inge, or Knotted as described below for an elaborate
Knotted
border. Where the material will not allow the threads to be drawn away, Ball Fringes, Tassel Fringes, and Knotted Fringes are made upon it as an edging, or Fringes are Crocheted, Knitted, or Netted, and sewn round the work. Knitting and Netting fringes are so rarely disconnected
needle up and
fringe.
—
Knotted Fringe. Fix along the edge of material, at even distances apart, four to sis doubled strands of filoselle or purse silk. Make a hole in the material with a stiletto, and knot them into this hole, or knot them on as in the last Fringe.
Fasten the material to a lead cushion, and
take half the threads from one knot and haK from the next, and, with a needle threaded with the same silk, fasten them together as a knot with Overcast Stitch, run the
next knot
is
down the threads
to be formed,
tied instead of Overcast.
to the place where the
The knots can be In the second row of Knots, 1? F
and
repeat.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
2l8
knot the threads together that are together at the edge of
For the third row, repeat
the material.
Knotted Fringe
like Fig. 414.
—Wind
over a thin
flat
book, or piece of wood, a good quantity of wool or thread, cut
and lay
it
at one place, Pick up three
it
straight.
opposite or left mesh, then withdraw the hook from the
mesh on the reverse side, and repeat from Observe that the mesh must be always turned over from the right side to the left. Two Double Crochet Stitches, instead of one, give a variety to the pattern, but The wide will not prove suitable when the wool is thick. portion of the pattern must be cut to form the fringe, but if made in crochet cotton may be left uncut. loop, turn the
first ro-w.
them evenly together, Push a and fold them in half. crochet hook through the foundation material, take up the bent end of the threads, and draw them through
threads, place
the
*.
Privolite.
— The
French
Frouces.
—A
verb to gather,
the threads, and draw them all bodily through the loop, and well tighten the
of cloth into plaits, to wrinkle
Nor
with wool,
Fnrs.
can be made
crewels, cotton,
or
;
material.
—
Fringing Machine. Fringing machines may be procured for' making what is required at home. The small appliance so called is incorrectly described as a raachine. It consists of a flat piece of wood, divided into a broad and a very naiTOw mesh, upon which the fringe is made by of a crochet needle or
hook
(see
See
—Frounce, to gather the edge any
textile, or to curl or
tiieked and frounced as she was wont.
—Milton.
—The
skins of animals coated with
Fur
suitable
and wraps, are for the most part included in the following list, and information may be found relating to them under their several headings The Angora Goat, Astrachan, Bear, Beaver,
for purposes of clothing, trimmings,
silk.
Cut a number of even threads, take up enough to form a good bunch, and fold them in half; wind thread or sUk round them, near their upper end, push Fig. iU. FniKGE. a crochet hook through the knot thus formed, and draw the end of the wound thread up T.'ith it, making a loop make another loop over the top of the tassel thus formed, and knot it into the edge of the
means
Tatting.
frizzle the hair.
Continue to fasten
—This
now
English word exactly similar
these strands of thread into the material until a thick fringe is made. Tassel Fringe.
for
French word derived from Froncer, the There is an old in rise for Gathers.
the material for a short distance, then put the crochet hook round the end of
knot thus made.
term
Tatting.
Fig. 415).
The
:
Chinchilla, Ermine, Fitch, Fox, Hamster, Genet, KoUnski,
Lamb
Mink, Musquash, Russian Musquash, Opossum, Perewiaska, Polecat, Rabbit or Coney, Squirrel, In Sable, Sealskin, Rabbit skins, and Persian Lamb. skin, Slarten,
we have those of birds, supplying the place of Furs, viz.. Eiderdown, Grebe, Penguin, Pheasant, Ptarmigan, and Swanskin or Down. Although some believe that the " Gris " of the olden addition to these skLas of animals,
times was the Fur of the Grey Squirrel, it is more generally believed to have been that of the Marten (which see).
—
Fur Trimming, Imitation. Made with Smyrna, Double Berlin, or Fleecy Wool, and used as an oraamental To work fringe to work baskets, mantel borders, &c. Cast on to a large wooden knitting needle as many stitches :
as
it
will hold, using together three strands of
Smyrna
Thread a needle with strong cotton, and secure each knitted stitch by passing the cotton first through the loop on the needle, and then through the loop made at the side of the stitch, when casting on, and the cotton loop. Work in this way until wool, or six of a finer kind.
all
the loops are secured, then take oil the knitting needle, comb out untU a long thick line is the result
cut them, and
forms the heading. To make the tassels Wind the wool twelve times round the hand, knot the strands together near the end cut, comb out, and sew to the this
Fig. 415.
method
Feikging Machine.
of working is as follows
or sis strands,
and
tie
:
Wind
;
heading. the wool in four
the ends in a knot.
Then fasten
the ends of the wool to the small mesh, hook the wool up in the centre between the two meshes, and make a Chain Stitch, enclosing the small mesh in the Chain. Make
another chain, withdraw the hook from the loop, turn the small mesh to the left side, and the last Chain Stitch will now be in the space between the two meshes, while the
wool will be in front *. Insert the hook, and bring the wool round the back of the mesh to the space, and draw it with the hook through the loop which is ah-eady on it, and make a Double Ceochet in the loop which is round the
Fustian. including
—A many
coarse,
varieties
stout,
twUled
— corduroy,
cotton fabric, barragon,
jean,
cantoon, velveret, velveteen, thickset, and thickset cord. Plain fustian is called "pillow;" the strong twiUed,
cropped before dyeing, is called "moleskin;" and when cropped after dyeing, " beaverteeu." From their strength and cheapness they are much employed for the dress of labouring men. They had their origin at Barcelona, the name being derived from fuste, the Spanish word for strong but they were imported here from Flanders, used were for jackets and doublets in the fifteenth century, and in the time first manufactured in this country at Norwich, ;
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Edward VI.
2ig
was theu a mised material, composed of linen and cotton but since Arkwrigbt furnished water-
cross.
has been made entirely of cotton. The common plain, or pillow fustian, is very narrow, seldom exceeding 17 inches or 18 inches in width. Out
an emblem of Christ's crucifixion, but was borrowed by them from the East, having been used in India and China, before the.time of Buddha, to express the Deity.
of
It
;
twist for the warp,
it
Gamma, drawn
four times, so as to make the shape of a It was employed by the early church workers as
half-pieces, or " ends," of about 35 yards then dyed, dressed, and folded ready for the market. Cantoon has a fine cord on one side, and a satiny surface of yarns, running at right angles to the cords, on the other. The satiny side is sometimes smoothed by singeing. It is a strong and handsome stuff. Corduroy is ribbed, the projecting part having a pile it is strong in wear, and the best kinds are twilled. Velveteen, velvet,
signifying any descrip. trimming and ornamentation, whether employed on dress or any other article.
and
fold a piece of stuff in half,
from the loom in
long,
it
is
Gants, or Gands.— The French name (which
Garniture.—A French term
tion of decorative
Garnitures of Art.
;
thickset, are imitations of silk velvet in cotton,
and to be had in various colours. another and coarse variety of fustian. are cheap,
and Camelote is
G.
Gathering.
Addison.
—A term used in plain sewing.
To
effect
it,
and then into quarters, placing pins at the measurements so made do the same with the piece of stuff on which the gathered portion of material is to be sewn, and place them together, pin to pin. Begin with the gathering thread at about twelve or fourteen ;
threads from the top take up three threads of the needle and miss four, more or less, according to the fulness ;
—A
term employed in dressmaking and millinery, boiTowed from architecture, denoting a kind of inverted fluting or beading. Plaits of a similar form are made on caps and cuffs, as composing a decorative
Gadroou.
Gloves
for
.see).
desired. When a quarter is completed, draw the gatherings rather closely, securing the thread by twisting it round the pin.
Stroke down each gather with a large needle, to lie evenly together. Then release the drawing
make them
style of trimming.
— A Scotch cotton fabric, employed for servants' said to be only a local name. Gala Galatea. — A cotton material striped in blue on a white Gala.
dresses.
is
It is made for women's dresses, and washes well. measures 27 inches in width. Galloon. There are two descriptions of this article. One is a strong, thick, gold lace, with an even selvedge at each side. It is woven with a pattern in threads of gold or silver, on silk or worsted, both plain and watered, and is employed in uniforms and on servants' livery hats. The other kind is of wool, silk, or cotton, combined with silk or worsted, and is used for trimming and binding articles of di-ess, hats, shoes, and furniture. This sort is only a narrow ribbon, done up in rolls of 36 yards each, four to the gross. The widths are called
ground.
It
—
" two-penny," " four-penny," " six-penny," and " eightpenny." Galloon is employed for the bands and bindings of men's hats, for the trimmings of women's dresses, and
Fig. 416.
Gatherino.
thread from the pin, and loosen the gathers, so as to mate the length of space they occupy correspond with that on the plain piece of material upon which they are to be sewn.
The finest qualities are produced at Amiens and Lyons, where it is chiefly made of wool. Swift mentions "a hat edged with silver Galloon" in his "Memoirs of P. P., Clerk of the Parish;" and in D'Urfey's "Wit and Mirth" {temp. Queen Anne), a country girl is said to wear " a jacket edged with blue Galloon." Galway Cloth. A closely woven cloth, of a coarse quality, suitable for cloaks, dyed scarlet, and worn by for curtains.
Fasten the thi'ead again securely to the pin, and sew on the gathers, sloping the needle to make the thread slant and slip between the gathers. When gathering flounces, the character of the
dress matei-ial should be conIf one intended for washing, the gathers should be cut the straight way of
sidered.
—
the stuff; otherwise
it should be on the bias; in either case,
the Irish peasantry.
Galway Flannel. — A
coarse
make
of
flannel,
of
a
thick, warm, and waterproofed. It is dark red colour 33 inches in width. A fine quality is also produced under the same name. Gamliroon, A kind of twilled linen cloth, made for
Fig. 417.
Sewing
in Gathers.
whether cut straight with the
;
— Gammadiou. — An
ornament frequently met with
ancient Church Embroideries, and given the it is
threads of the web or diagoof the flounce as the
much again
space on the skirt to be occupied, if the material be Care should be taken to conceal the
thick in substance.
linings.
which
nally, gather half as
in
name by
known, because formed with the Greek letter
gathering thread.
Gauge
for Knitting Needles.
or circular in form, and
made
—These are bell-shaped
of steel
or bright wire
F r 2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
220 metal,
tlie
graduated circular cute hole has a number, to
outer edge liaviug
througli to the extreme rim.
Each
distinguish it from its fellows, and there are larger circular holes
in
the
centi'e.
Some
gauges have the holes within the outer rim, only occupying the central portion.
As
there
upwards
of two dozen one only is here These appliances illustrated. are employed by wire-drawers, and are essential to the Knitter
are
varieties,
Fio. ilS. Gatige foe Ehittiso
as
Needles.
well as
to
the
Knitting Needles.
seller
of
They can
be obtained at cutlers', and at wholesale establishments where other materials and articles necessary for the woi'ktable are to be procured.
Gauging and Gathering Macliine. — This machine said to produce Gauging at one-twentieth the cost necessary to produce it by the hand when unassisted. The speed is estimated at 2500 stitches a minute, and as two needles can be employed simultaneously, double that is
number can
r,s
easily be produced, so accomplishing as
space than they are themselves apart, as would be the plan if the same directions were followed and " puffings " desired. Gauging, which is also known as " shirring (an objectionable Americanism),
pulled nearly tight
is
from row to row of the runnings, but not as to
make
so
much
the line of the gathering threads take an
uncertain course, the beauty of this trimming depending on the lines being of extreme accuracy. It may be made in groups at even distances; the runnings, separated
by
wider spaces, either longitudinally or latitudinally, to trim the bodice or sleeves of a dress, the head of a flounce, or for a bonnet, those of yoimg children especially. A guide for running the lines at correct distances must be made as in quilting, by holding a paper strip under the thumb of the left hand, the further edge of the strip placed against the running last made, and the nearer one to serve as a guide to the needle for the next running. Gauze. A delicate, transparent textile, of a gossamerlike appearance, woven of silk, or silk and thread, as well as in other varieties, deriving its name from Gaza, in Palestine, where the tissue was first manufactured. The threads of
—
silk and hemp are woven either singly or together, and the several kinds are plain made, brocaded or spotted, the designs being composed of silk, or else striped with
satin or velvet. There is an inferior description of Gauze, on which the designs ax'e of " Maquesia," merely gummed upon the Gauze. Those fabrics imported from China or India are sometimes decoi-ated with flowers in gold. Gossamer is a variety of Gauze (which see); so is Crepe China Crape, Mousseline de Lisse, which is crimped. Soie Crepe, and Indian Net a strong variety, made of silk and worsted, and employed for women's gowns are all of the same description of textile. The best kinds
—
—
are
made
The
in Prance.
Italian
is
another variety, bear-
ing a resemblance to Taffetas. Gauze was highly prized by the Romans, and was introduced into Ireland in 1698. Its manufacture in this country was carried on for a long period at Spitalfields, where the beautiful Chinese Gauzes
were successfully imitated, with flowers in gold and silver thread. It has been woven at Paisley, in Scotland, ever since 1759.
Brocades and damasks, and tabbies and
g-auzes,
bave been
lately brought over (to Ireland).
Dean
Gauze Brochi
(otherwise
known
as
—
much work, in a given time, as could be performed by twenty pei'sons. It is an American invention, is smaller than an ordinary sewing machine, and is available for purp)0ses of dressmaking, millinery, and the plain sewing of uudei'linen. It is known as the " Heberling Runningstitch Gatiging Machine." Pig. 419 shows a specimen of Gauging executed by a hand machine, a portion being left undrawn to show the runnings.
Ganging, or Gaging.
—A
term applied to a series of close parallel runnings, which are all drawn up so as to make the material between them set full by gatherings; but the runnings are not brought together on a narrower
Sioift.
Empress Gauze
and Lace-patterned Grenadine). This stuff, although bearing a resemblance to Grenadine, is not always a wholly silk, nor wholly linen textile, but may be a mixture of both, or of one or other exclusively. It has a foundation woven transparently, as Gauze, but
design of satin make.
is
decorated with a
The width
varies
floral
from 30 inches
to 32 inches.
—
Gauze Flannel. This stufE. is otherwise known as Zephyr Shirting, a very fine description of flannel, having a silk warp, striped with, black or pink, on a grey ground. It is 32 inches in width, and is employed for a superior
kind of shirting made for men's use in hot climates. Gauze Ribbons. These ribbons are a description of silk muslin, produced in fancy patterns and plain, and in They are employed for old ladies' caps, but all colours. are no longer fashionable. See Ribbon.
—
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
— This
—
Gaze au Fuseau. See Grille. Gaze Point. — See Point Gaze. Genet Fur. — The Genet is a species of
Genoese Embroidery. named after the
the Polecat, aud a native of Africa, Asia, and the South of Europe. Its fur is of a grey colour, spotted with either black or brown,
to
which it worked upon
the long tail being ringed with black and white. The skin is comparatively inexpensive, and is employed for muffs,
The work To work
and
but
bears fine
linen
Geneva Embroidery. — This
a modern work reThe foundation material is is
Em-
modern Genoese
Lace,
resemblance.
little
or
It
is
and the designs
muslin,
surrounded with narrow cord closely Buttonholed over. is suitable for dress and undeilinen trimmings. as shov/n in Fig. 420 If the muslin or :
linen is clear, trace the design
cuffs.
a
is
celebrated
broidery,
is
collarettes,
221
the
material
to
that
;
if
upon
thick,
calico,
trace
and tack
the
design
sembling Ticking Work. chessboard canvas, or Java canvas, and upon this broad lines of velvet are laid, and attached with Cross, Tent, Herringbone, and other stitches, worked in coloured To work Upon the chesssilks, chenille, or wool. board canvas lay down velvet bands 1 inch in width Cross these, to form squares and 2 inches apart.
on to it with the aid of the tracing paper and cloth, aud tack that to brown paper. Outline the whole of the pattern with the fine cord, aud make the loops with the cord at the same time. Cover the cord with a close and fine line of Buttonhole, and work plain Bae9 to connect the various parts of the design to-
with similar bands of velvet, aud Heeeingbone them Fill in the squares of at their sides to the canvas. canvas with Rosettes or Stars made with a brightcoloured chenille. The embroidery is sometimes worked
and
:
Fig. 420.
without the velvet bands, entirely in chenille or Arrasene,
—
coast.
—
Genoa Lace. A Modern Point Lace SoERBNTO Stitch (which see).
in the centre pattern with a plain Wheel, open parts branching from the Wheel with Ladder Stitch. Uutack the work from the brown paper, and cut away the liueu from between the Button-
gether;
fill
the
hole lines of cord.
GENOESE EMBEOIDEEY.
and the canvas foundation left exposed. Genoa Lace. The manufacture of lace in the city of Genoa and the surrounding country flourished during the seventeenth century, and both the Pillow and Needle Laces produced there were then held in high estimation. The earliest Needle Laces were made of gold and silver thread, or of gold wire, and the method practised of drawing out the wire was similar to that used in the time of the early Greeks. The Genoese Laces include a Pillow Lace resembling in pattern the Greek Points, Tape Guipures, Lace made from the fibre of the aloe, and Knotted laces, known in modern The manufacture of the three times as Macrame. first has died out, but the making of Maoramc has been revived, and flourishes in Genoa and along the
to
directly
Stitch, similar
Genoese Velvet.
—The velvets manufactured at
are considered to be very superior,
and
Genoa
are, perhaps, the
The pile is thick, close, and of and the web on which it is placed is likewise of silk, and closely woven. At the time of the coronation of Charles I., the red and purple robes for such occasions were usually made of Genoese velvet but, according to De Quincey, " by some oversight, all the store in London was insuflicient to furnish the purple velvet necessary for the robes of the king, and for the furniture of the throne. It was too late to send to Genoa for a supply, and through this accidental deficiency it happened that the king was attired in white velvet at the solemnity of his coronation, and not in best quality produced. fine silk,
;
nor purple robes, as consistent with the yiroper usage." De Quincey further observes, that the forebodings of the misfortunes of this " white King," according to the prophecy of Merlin, were supposed to have red
had their fulfilment
in his case, white being the ancient
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. colour for a victim, a curious coincidence being noticeable iu the fact tbat bis pall was wbite -with, snow,
wbicb
on
fell
as a sbeet
it
when be was
carried
to
was obtained from German sheep, although
tbe grave.
German Cross Stitch. — Identical German Fiugeriug. — A fine soft
witb Kkeuzstich. yarn, said to be
any otber wool of an equally fine quality. It may be bad in white, black, drabs, and greys, in ingi'ain colours, mixtures, and navy blue, and is sold by tbe pound and ounce. German Tleecy. This description of woollen yarn durable character than
of a nioi'e
—
known
likewise
is
but there
as Berlin Fleecy;
is
much
deception as to the sheep from which the wool is taken, as bales of the best description are now imported from Bee Fleecy.
Australia.
German
Fringes.
—These
ai-e made of white cotton The width is from li inches
in various fancy patterns. to 3 inches,
and the fringe
blinds and curtains.
is
down once
called
fold turned towards the sempstress
— so
then felled (or hemmed) to the cloth against which it is When completed, the laid like hemming it upside down. material sleeve or other article— being opened, the upper fold should be laid over the lower edge, and felled down. German Lace. Germany owes its best manufactory
—
—
of
Lace
to the exertions of Bai-bara
the lace
is cheapei-.
—A
lated, the central portion of the front of the bodice being
is
that the smooth top of the lower one should not touch the edge of the upper, but is just below it. The lower one is
—
There are two sizes sold, the double and the single. Ghent.— Valenciennes Lace of good quality is made in this town, and is sold in Holland, France, and England. The school iu Ghent for lacemaking was founded by the Beguins about the year 1756, and the lace was then termed It is less solid than true ValenFausse Valenciennes. ciennes, and is made in narrow and medium widths only. The network ground is more quickly made than the true Valenciennes, not so many turns in the Bobbins being given when forming the Honeycombs, and for this reason
in describing plain
—a kind of substitute for what
—the
spun at
It is French term signifying a waistcoat. employed by dressmakers. Gilets are sometimes made separately from the bodice, but are as often merely simu-
It is sold in lengths of
Sewing a method employed when desirable that the seam made should Ue very flat. It looks better than Felling, and is as stronc. The raw edges of two pieces of cloth are turned
needlework
chiefly
Keighley, in Yorkshire; bnt much of our best wool has latterly been imported from our own colonies in Australia.
36 yards.
used for bed furniture,
German Heel.— See Knitting. German Hemming. —A term used
—
very evenly twisted, smooth and soft, excelling Fleecy in these respects, and all other kinds of wool in its capability of receiving the most brilliant dyes. The wool so-called
Uttmann, who estab-
Gilet.
so bordered as to appear like a separate article of dress.
—
This is the shiny, or coarse glazed thread used Honiton and other Pillow Laces, to mark out and
Gimp. in
slightly raise certain edges of the design, as a substitute
for Raised laces, as
Work.
It is also used in
Needle-made Darned
a run edging, to emphasise the chief parts of a
pattern.
To work
for
two Bobbins
Honiton Lace, as shown in Fig. 421 Fill Gimp, and make the Half Hitch to :
-nith
keep the thread tight to the bobbins; tie them together and wind away the Knot. Hang eleven pairs of bobbins and the gimps to the point of the leaf, which arrange so that the
Saxony, in 15C1, the making of a Pillow Lace resembling Brussels Lace while in 1685, owing to the Revocation of the Edict of Nantea, religious refugees from France settled themselves in Germany, and manufactm'ed BO much and such good lace that they were enabled to export it, not only into Russia and Italy, but into France. Dresden, Nurnburg, and Saxony were the places most celebrated for their laces during the eighteenth century,
lished, in
gimps
fall out-
side the other bobbins
;
and large quantities of the
made
in Saxony, but of a
each
each row, thus
—
An
or
Darned Background Stitches. German Stitch.— See Berlin Work. German Wool (termed in French Zephyr
This
is
another
name for Berlin Wool (which
see).
—
It is
In the
first
No. 2 and under No. 1 to begin, and under No. 2 and over No. 1 to end the row.
em-
Menoir).
:
right, p.iss the gimp over
In returning from right to pass the gimp under No. 2 and over No. 1 at the beginning, and over No. 2 and under No. 1 at the
broidery upon thick white linen, with blue, white, or red The patterns used are himting scenes, linen thread. surrounded with conventional foliage, and are all taken
from old German designs. To work: Outline all the pattern with Reversed Chain, or Rope Stitch, made in blue linen thread. Work a row of Crewel Stitch Fill in leaves and inside this line with white thread. flowers with Satin Stitch in white linen thread. Work the clothes of figures, feathers of birds, and fur of animals with white thread, and with Modern Point Lace Stitches,
on
the leaf
row, working from left to
known as Torchon is still make and pattern inferior to
German Xinen Thread Emhroidery.
Work
Cloth Stitch with in Plain Edge, but pass the gimp through the Runners
lace
that formerly manufactured there.
side.
left,
end.
Work down
the leaf
Cloth Stitch and Plain Edge, working in the gimp as described, and when the leaf is finished, tie up and cut off the gimps, and then make Beginners' Plait in
with the other bobbins for the stem. Gimp, or Gymp.—An open work trimming, used on both dress and furniture, and in coach lace making. It is made of silk, worsted, or cotton twist, having a cord or a wire running through
it.
The strands are
plaited or
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. twisted,
form a pattern.
so as to
Passementerie has
The French
word
much
superseded that of Grimp in reference to the finer sorts used for dress.
Gingham. — A
thin chequered cloth,
made
of linen, the
threads being dyed in the yarn, and measuring 32 inches
was imported from India, and is extensively manufactured in England, and employed for dresses. There are several varieties, known respectively as Earlston Ginghams, Power Loom, Seer-Suckers, Coloured Diapers, Muslin Grounds (stripes and checks), Umbrella Ginghams, Crossover Stripes, Jean Stripes, Derries, plain common light and ditto dark grounds besides Gingham handkerchiefs, which are made of linen or cotton, much used in the North of England as market handkerchiefs,^for tying bundles, and carried on the end of a stick over the shoulder. When in width.
It
;
recently re-introduced
as;
a fashionable dress material,
Gingliam was given a new designation, and is now known by the unsuitable name of Zephyr. A superior kind is
made of Glac^ silk,
linen only, the other sort being
made
of cotton.
— A slight and peculiarly lustrous quality of make — without rib or or brocaded
Silk.
of plain
twill,
i.e.,
Glace
design.
be had in single
silk is to
colour's,
and also
in fine stripes, shot, or chine, and pensive.
It is peculiarly well
Glass Cloth.
— This
is comparatively inexadapted for summer dresses.
a beautiful material, which has appeared in various eshibitious. Manufactories for the production of ecclesiastical decorative fabrics composed of is
glass fibre are in operation in Austria, France,
and
it
made
also
is
at
Pittsburg,
in
and
Italy,
Pennsylvania.
When
toughened it will be rendered more satisfactory as trimmings for articles of dress and upholstery. With reference to the method pursued in its manufacture, the thread is dravm out of a molten bar of glass, by means of a rapidly revolving wheel, at the rate of 200 yards a minute the weaving is done by looms, as with silk. The
—
Gloves. A covering for the hand, or hand and wrist, having a separate sheath for each finger. The earliest kinds worn in England had no divisions for the fingers, but were supplied with a separate sheath for the thumb only.
They
are mentioned in the records of dress in tJie most remote times. Homer alluding to them in the Twentyfourth Book of the " Odyssey, " where Laertes is described as wearing them when found by Ulysses tending his garden His buskins
is
applied with minerals, while the glass
is
and the most beautiful
A
glass tablecloth shines
shades are easily produced.
with a satiny opalescent lustre by day, and under gaslight shows remarkable beauty. Imitation plumes in opal, ruby, pale green, and other hues, arc also wonderfully pretty.
seems to
lie
The
chief difficulty in the manufacture " manipulation of these threads,
in the
which are so fine, that a bunch containing 250 is not so thick as an average knitting needle. " The introducers of this new industry declare that "garments of pure glass, glistening and imperishable, are among the possibilities of
the near future."
—
These cloths are made of linen, and have a large Cross-bar check of red or blue thread. They have been diverted from their primary use, and much adopted for the purpose of embroidery, as well as for aprons and chair covers, small designs being worked within the several squares with crewels or ingrain cotton. They vary in price in England, from 6d. to Is. a yard, and measure from about
Glass Cloths.
27 inches to 30 inches in width.
—A thin calico of a loose texture, having
Glazed Calico. a high glaze on one
side, produced by a process of damping and extreme pressure, known as " calendering. " It is made for linings only, and can be procured in every colour.
;
former service torn.
and Gloves, against the thorn.
Xenophon speaks
of their use by the ancient Persians, and Pliny of the two descriptions, with fingers and with a thumb only divided, made of either wool or felt. In Eng-
land, the ceremonies connected
Two
with gloves are curious. bishops were put in possession of their Sees, a.d. 1002,
by each receiving a
glove.
In the time of Edward
deprivation of gloves was a ceremony of degradation. Glovers' Company of London was incorporated in
The importation
of
II.
The 16-56.
foreign manufactures of the article
was not permitted in England
until the year 182-5. At our coronations, the Champion of England (a hereditary office and distinction belonging to the Dymoke family)
rides
up
to
Westminster Hall, on the day appointed for
the ceremony, to challenge anyone
who
disputes the right
The office was established by William the Conqueror to Marmion and his male descendants, and thence came in the female line to De Ludlosv, and fromhis family, again in the female line, to Sir John Dymoke, in the reign of Richard II. It was, and still is, a part of the ceremony to throw down a glove as the token of a challenge, and to wait for a time to see whether any opposer of the succession would take it up of succession.
These Lincoln lands the Conqueror gave, That England's glove they might convey To Knight renowned amongst the brave^ The Baron bold of Fontonoy.
in a
state of fusion, before spinning,
old, in
Bat well repaired
;
colouring
223
—Antjlo-'Sorman
Ballad.
Another old custom in reference to gloves, which is still observed in England, is the practice obtaining at a maiden assize,
when the
the judge
;
sheriif presents a pair of white gloves to
also the fashion of presenting white ones to
wedding guests, and black to those at funerals. In the Northern counties, amongst other customs connected with gloves, white paper ones are hung up, with chaplets, in churches, in memory of persons deceased, as being emblematic of their purity, and having " clean hands. " This obtains in Yorkshire and Lancashire. It is not etiquette to wear gloves in the presence of Royalty, a rule having its origin in the emblematic use of gloves in giving a challenge, which inferiority in rank, as well as the loyalty due to them, would preclude. On the same grounds, the habit obtains of removing one or both gloves in church, being a mark of respect which, if due to an earthly potentate, is thought more incumbent still on those engaged in the acts of Divine worship. Following out the same idea of showing respect by removing the gloves, until quite recently the custom obtained amongst men to take off, not only the hat, but the right glove, when ottering the hand to a lady, and on entering a room as a visitor.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
224
The frame being ready, strings are carried backwards and forwards from one piece of webbing to the other. These strings are made of fine whipcord, and are laced closely together and perfectly parallel. They take the place of canvas, and bear the stitches therefore, it is of vital importance to the work that they should be arranged at even distances, and be close together and tightly stretched. Their number must be the same as the number
witli long tops extendiug up tlie arm from the were mucli worn in the fourteenth century in this country. Some were jewelled on the back, and were worn with regal robes, forming part of the costume and others were mailed, like the defensive armour they were intended to match, or had one or more metal plates on their backs, Embroidered while inside the glove was soft and flexible. ones were introduced into England in 1580. There is much
Tapestry.
gloves. Knights of the Middle Ages used to wear their lady-loves' gloves as badges in their helmets, and threw down their own as a challenge to private combat. In the last century, chicken skin gloves were much in vogue, for the esjsecial preservation of ladies' hands, as was imagined and rat skin gloves have been, and still are, to be had. Those now in ordinary
of lines required in the pattern, therefore they are counted.
Gloves
wi'lst
;
historical interest attached to
;
The kid gloves of home manufacture are principally made at Worcester, Yeovil, Ludlow, Leominster, Leicester, Nottingham, and London. Buckskins, strong, close-grained, stifl! and durable, will bear cleaning better than those of any other kind of leather. Doeskins are very durable and thick, but soft and flexiljle. Woodstock is a superior kind of beaver glove, well-shaped and sewn, and warm for winter wear. Those of Woodstock and Worcester are of ancient celebrity. use are of various descriptions.
Besides the
woven ones
leather
named, there are and wool. Berlin gloves,
gloves before
of thread, silk, cotton,
made there, are composed of The Berlin silk gloves are cotton, made to resemble kid. superior to others of that material, and are made in all colours. Aberdeens are made of worsted, or of cotton so called because originally
They are machine-knitted, and wear well. Worsted and those of lambs' wool, are much used in agricultural districts. Gants de Suede are made of thin skins,
yarns.
gloves,
turned inside out.
Thick white cotton gloves are used in
sei'vants' liveries, or plain dress, for waiting, or driving, " "
and outdoor attendance.
Thick white
wash leather
worn by the Life Guards. Goats' Hair Cloth.— See Cashmere. Gobelin Stitch. See Berlin Work and Embroidery
gloves, with gauntlets, are
—
Stitches.
Gobelin Tapestry.
—This
is
a revival, on a small scale,
is named after the celebrated Gobelin manufactory in Paris. Like the true Gobelin, the work is executed from the back, and can be made either of purse silk, filoselle, or single Berlin wool.
of
ancient Tapestry work, and
Silk woi-k in Gobelin
is
very beautiful, the variety of shades
and the number of stitches used contribxiting to give it a it is useful for handsoft and pleasing appearance; screens, bags, pincushions, where part of the background can be shown, and for squares in chair backs alternately with heavy lace but the wool Gobelin, with bold patterns, should be selected by all beginners until the minuiioE of the work is understood, as it will form a change to Cross Stitch work, will be as durable, and is executed from counted patterns. It forms excellent cushions, fender-stools, mantel and table borders. A strong wooden embroidery frame, with webbing up the sides, is necessary tor the wool work, while small ones, also with webbing at the sides, are The frames used for Guiptire d'Art, sufficient for the silk. and covered with silk, are large enough for many pieces of ;
;
Whipcord
is
used for the wool, very
twine for the
fine
silk,
The patterns chosen are the same as are used Cross Stitch on linen or Berlin wool work, detached
tapestry. for
flower sprays or landscape patterns, the first-named being the easiest.
In copying patterns with a good deal of ground, one shade up the work, but designs of various colours have to be more carefully treated. It is then necessary to thread a number of needles with the shades of colour, to secure them, and work them in their places, carrying the wool along the work where not required, putting it in and making a stitch, and then carrying it on again until the top of the frame is reached. When silk Gobelin is worked, the silk need not be threaded, but sufficient for one line should be wound upon a thin fine card, and that passed through the cords and the loop so made. To work Set up the frame and lace the cords across it, counting them, and putting them in at even distances apart. Commence to work from the bottom of the frame, at the left-hand side. Thread a wool needle with a shade of grounding colour, and tie it on to the first cord, and, bringing the wool up over the cord, put the needle in over and under the second cord, and bring it out, forming a loop on that cord with the wool, and so that the returning woo] crosses over the wool coming from the bottom cord then make another stitch on the right of the one just formed, and on the same cord. These two loops count as one stitch they must be always drawn up evenly and close together. The next stitch is made on the third line in the same way, and so on until every line of cord has a stitch upon it, and the top of the frame is reached. The wool is then fastened off, and another line commenced from the bottom, and close to the one first made. The appearance on the right side (the work being executed on the wi-ong) is like the of colour is carried straight
:
;
tight loops seen in cai-pets.
The work
is
executed for
silk
Gobelin as for wool, the difference being in the fineness of the pattern produced.
—
Another Variety. Another manner of imitating Gobelin tapestry with silk is only practicable for small articles, such as necktie ends, bags, and hand screens. It is
done on the right
fine knitting needles.
and the stitches are taken over The needles should not be large,
side,
as they are withdrawn, and, for beauty.
The patterns
if big,
are the
leave loops too long
same as before described,
A silk or satin the pins taking the place of cords. foundation stretched on a frame is necessary, and the pins are attached to this, close together, with strong tacking Bring the embroidery silk from the threads. To work back of the material, pass it over the knitting needle and return it to the back, and pass it over the needle again :
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BERLIN CANVAS AND STITCHES.
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THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. close to the first place to complete the stitch. Work two or three stitches of the same colour if close together on the same line at once, but the tendency of the work shonlJ
be always upward, from the bottom line to the top, and
but little deviation from this rule allowed. The material being the ground, only the pattern is worked. When the pattern is finished, paste over the back with Embkoideey Paste, and leave the needles in position tmtil this is thoroughly dry, then pull them out. If the design is an Arabesque, the work can be enriched with a line of gold thread Couched round every portion of the outline. If both sides are shown, as in a necktie, a piece of silk should be laid over the back part, but this is not otherwise necessary.
Another variety is worked upon Java Canvas, or Select bold Kreuzstich design, and Woollen Canvas. work in Gobelin Stitch instead of Cross.
Gold and Silver Lace. silver, or
method
—The
twisting of gold and
gold wire, into various patterns, was the
of
making
lace,
and though
obscurity, the authentic records
still
its
origin
is
remaining of
first
lost in its
use
making of Gold Lace back to the time of the Egyptians and Romans. The origin of all lace came from the desire to ornament the edges of garments, and at first, in order to do this, the material itself was ravelled out and fringed then, into these ravellings coloured silk and gold threads were introduced and worked up together; and, finally, the ornament was detached from the garment and worked separately, and elaborate needle-made stitches cari-y the
225
dress, liveries, furniture, and church decorations. Gold Fringes and Gold Passing, employed for Embroidery work, are made in the same way. Gold Beaten Out. Also known as Batuz Work and Hammered-up Gold. Much used in the Embroideries executed between the eleventh and sixteenth centuries. It consists of fine gold or silver gilt, beaten out with hammers into extremely thin plates, which are shaped to fit into certain parts of the work. These plates are attached with sillt to the material, or glued to it. Bze Baitjz Wobk.
—
Gold Bullion bkoideey.
Embroidery.
— See
Bullion
Em-
Gold Embroidery. — See Embeoideky with Gold. Gold Fringe. See Gold and Silvee Lace. Gold Passing. A silk thread encased in flattened gold
— —
employed in embroidery work.
wire,
See
Gold and
Silver Lace. Gold Twist or Thread. See Gold Passing and Gold and Silvee Lace. Gold "Wroxiglit Work. Used largely, during the
—
—
eleventh to the sixteenth centuries, as ornaments to ladies'
embroidered dresses, and for the crests and other insignia uijou embroidered banners, or as adornments to coronation and funeral garments, and consisting of thin plates of gold, beaten out flat, and then worked up with silks into
;
introduced.
Cyprus produced Gold and Silver Lace in 1390, while Venetian and Italian claim to be the originals of all the Gold and Silver Laces, and the rest to be but copies. Point d'Espagne at one time signified Gold and Silver Lace into which coloured silks were introduced, and this descrijition of Laoemaking flourished in Spain during the fourteenth century, declining in beauty after the expul-
Jews from that country, they being the best In Sweden, Gold Lace was made in the fifteenth century; in Russia it was the first description of lace which was manufactured. In France, Gold Lace was made before the time of Colbert, at Aurillac, while at Arras it flourished up to the end of the eighteenth century. The gold used in its manufacture was of considerable value, and a work called Parfilage, or Ravellings, which consisted of unpicking the lace to obtain the gold, was at one time very fashionable. Gold Lace is now made by machinery, and is only used for sion of the
workers.
uniforms, theatrical purposes, and servants' liveries. The Gold and Silver Laces of the present day consist of warp threads of silk, or silk and cotton combined; the weft
being of silk thread, covered with silver or silver gilt. The metal is drawn into a wire, and then flattened between steel rollers.
Although the gold alone be
tenths of the lace
visible, nine-
patterns in
relief.
—
Gore. A term used in Needlework to signify a piece of any material, cut somewhat wedge-shaj^ed, wider at one end than the other, which, being let into a skirt, or any part of a garment, increases the width at one end, while it
As a rule, the sloping side of the always joined to Ibo straight side of the next breadth in a skirt; and when hand-made, the sloping side is held next to the sewer. In a machine the straight side should be uppermost. One breadth of material will make two Gores, it being first measured, and then cut obliquely. These dress-skirt Gores are not cut to a point at the small ends, as in the Gore for under-garment sleeves. In the skirts of underclothing the Selvedges are Seamed together. Gorget. This term denotes an article of di-ess, copied from the throat portion of a military uniform, and worn lessens it at the other.
Gore
is
—
by women
in the sixteenth century,
into fashion again. stiff
As
which
covering for the throat or gorge,
whether made of or fringe,
And
A
silk, satin,
and worn
plain,
signifies
not
tempting wear they arc, Ac. Pleasant Qiiippes for Gentleaomen, 1596.
—
Gossamer.
—A
rich
silk
gauze, so called from its
resemblance to the finely woven silken thread spun by spiders, and which seems to derive its name from the fact of its being chiefly found in the Gorse, or Goss, this
of the Blessed Virgin Mary's shroud
Bobbins.
which
of a complex machine, having a wheel and iron Though called Lace, the manufacture would be more correctly described as Braid. It varies in width, and is employed for uniforms, ecclesiastical, Court, and civic
it
beaded or embroidered.
film
silk.
creeping
gorgets brave, with drawn work wrought,
means
of
now
or velvet, decorated with lace
Several strands of the flattened gold wire pass round the silk simultaneously, by is
is
the term applies to any wide and
being anciently called
Samyt.
According to an
ancient legend. Gossamers were said to be the ravellings fell
from
her.
on her Assumption,
The term Gossamer was formerly
applied to cotton threads, or the fine filaments on the seeds of certain plants, such as the dandelion and thistle,
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
226
being derived from Gossyjnum.
now
Tlie textile
cilled
Gossamer " is strong in quality, and is made in black and coloui's. It is niiicb employed for veils, and worn by botli sexes, being four times as thick and strong as "
ordinary gauze, althougb nearly as open in texture.
may
be procured in width.
It
a j'ard or a yard and a quarter
eitlier at
outer garment woi-n by, women, combining a bodice and skirt, and, till recently, for many years
designated by the less distinctive term " Dress." called
In the Middle Ages
{See
men wore what were
"Gowns" The
lord shall shift his goione
by
night.
— The Bolce rf Courlasye (Fourteenth Cent.) Taming
of the
possessing no
One
With a trunk sleeve The sleeves curiously
"gowns"
are
and
collegiate,
garment thus
known
:
and
so-called
legal
worn by men, cut and made up
in difEerent
but all characterised by the union of a skirt, with a covering of the body to the throat. A very early name employed to signify a gown is " Gite," as may be seen in several old works, such as styles
of different materials
Chaucer's " Wife of Bath,"
Gay
Grafting.
—A
tail,
is
short wings, and a long conical beak.
Grebe has a
Welsh name
;
crest,
and thence the derivaby which it ia
Griehe, or crest,
in Wales.
Grebe Cloth. —A
fitted to the shape.
civic,
species of
tion of the
cut.
likewise alludes to the
Gozonei in pure white that Ecclesiastical,
bird so called
capo,
and
Tennyson
— The
England, inhabiting the fens of Shropshire, Cheshire, and Lincolnshire, where it is called a " Gaunt." It is, however, to be found all over the old and new world. It is remarkable for the thickness and beauty of its plumage, and the breast is employed for making articles of dress such as hats, iDclerines, cxifEs, and mulfs, as a substitute for fur. There are five different
known in the British Islands, viz., the common Dabchick, the Eared Grebe, Horned Grebe, Red-necked Grebe, and the great Tippet Grebe. The skin measiu'es 8 inches by 9 inches. The bird is peculiar in ai^pearance,
Imprimis, a loose-bodied gown,
With a small
iristatus).
species
" the tailor says
Shrew
Grebe [Podicipinw
a waterfowl, a native of
—
Later on we find that Shakespeare speaks of being Dressed in the gown of humilitj', and, La the "
needlework patterns. It is practised by the West Indian who adorn their mocassins, head ornaments, and belts with this material. The designs arc worked in flat Satin Stitcu, and the grass is dyed in various shades tribes,
of colour.
Gown. —The
Dressmaking.)
—
Grass Embroidery. This Embroidery consists in using grass instead of silk or wool to form ornamental
style uf
cotton cloth,
made very much
in the
Swanskin.
Grecian Netting.
— See Netting. —This a modern
Greek Embroidery.
is
work, and
is
used for small mats, banner screens, and other fancy articles. It is a description of Applique, and consists in arranging upon a flat foundation p)ieces of coloured cloth
viz.
ECirlut Giles.
term employed in Daening, to signify
web into a space from which an unsound piece has been cut out. the insertion of a sound piece of stocking
The
original English word"gralf " for "graft,"
in the Authorised Version of the
also alludes to
thus
it
And
jra/t
An illustration
is
New
is
employed Pope
Testament.
:
my
love immortal on thy fame.
given under
Darning
(which
see).
—A cheap kind of
Grannnont. was first made
in the
town
white thread Pillow lace of Grammont, but lately a
black silk lace, rcsemljling the Ohantilly Blondes, has
The Grammont laces are made and shawls, and are used more Europe. The ground of the lace
been manufactured.
in
large pieces for flounces
in
America than in coarser, and the patterns not so tilly,
also
the black silk
the quality of the lace
is
is
Ohanis not so pure in colour but good, and it is cheaper than clear as the true
;
the French lace.
Grandrills.
—A
dark grey material, made of cotton,
usually of about 27 inches wide, and employed for the
making of stays
;
Gheek EMBROiDEitr.
Fig. 422.
a description of coarse Jean.
—
Grass Cloth, or Lawn. A fine, light quality of cloth, resembling linen, made from the Urtica nivea and other plants. As imported from the East for the home retail
or silk, in arabasque designs,
market, width.
foundation.
it is
sold in pieces
of 40 yards, of IG inche.? in
and attaching these to the
material with Chain, Herringbone, and other Embroidery
and these stitches are also repeated upon the plain To work as shown in Fig. 422, which is a section of a round mat Di'aw out the design upon dark stitches,
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Turkey red clotli, cut out the diamond-shaped piece of the pattern and the design in the centre of the oval from a dark art blue shade of cloth, and the oval from a blue cloth, paler, but of the same shade as tljat used for the diamond. Lay these upon the Turkey rod foundation, and to attach them to the material lay a silk cord round their edges, of their own shade, and catch this down with red
This needle-made
Guipure.
lace,
one of
the earliest,
was worked in the Ionian
Isles and at Venice during century; but its greatest celebrity was obtained during the sixteenth century, as, though manu-
the fifteenth
its character was then altered, was superseded in popularity by the Renaissance Points. The Lace worked in the Ionian Isles is the real
factured in the seventeenth,
and
it
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Fra.
silk,
as in
Work
Couching.
the scar
-12:1.
m the centre
GKEEK
of the
Tete de Bceue Stitch with red silk, and Herringbone over the oval with blue silk. Finish the pattern by working Chain Stitch round the oval in old gold silk, and make the Feathers, Dots, and Lines with diamond
in
the same old gold coloured
Greek Point. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Also Retioolla,
Rcticella,
silk.
kno-mi as Roman Lace, Italian and erroneously called Venetian
POINT.
Greek Point
;
that worked in Italy, although of the same and is known more frequently as
kind, is of a finer malce,
The principal places and Italian Rcticella. Greek Point were the Ionian Isles, Zante, Corfu, Venice, Naples, Rome, Florence, and Milan. In Spain, France, Enghvnd, and Goi-many, Greek Point was made, but it was not original, being copied from the Italian laces, many patterns of which were published Rcticella
of manufacture of
G c 2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
223 in Vinciola's collection in 1587.
The designs
of the early
and the oldest are the simple outlines, worked over laid and arranged cords, or over threads These geometrical left after others have been withdrawn. outlines were succeeded by laces made with the same style of pattern, but with the plain outline filled in with half laces are all geometrical,
and wheels, and this description finally merged into open work with thick stitches, made like other needle laces. The stitches used in old Greek Points are the ones now worked either in Guipure d'Art or in Modern Point Lace. The materials were silk of various colours, gold and silver thread, or linen thread. The modern Greek circles, triangles,
Point
is
only
To work
made with
linen thread.
Fig. 423, p. 227, an illustration of the
Buttonhole
it'
thi'ow a thread
and Buttonhole
backwards and forwards until the width of that piece of the pattern is obtained ornament its edge with Picots. Finish the edge of the lace with' a line of Buttonhole, and work a fancy stitch beyond on the cambric with a line of slanting Satin Stitches, outlined with Back Stitches. ;
lines are
from the inner outside line to the inner line on the it, and return it to whei'e it came from, leaving a small space between. Work over the two Work aU lines by darning in and out in Genoa Stitch. the straight lines of the lace in this way, and then Buttonhole over the outside cords. Work the ovals and stars in Buttonhole, ornament them with PicOTS, and work the opposite side, secure
OnCDK POINT.
;
This pattern
across
Fia. 421.
over,
in the open squares with the pattern
:
the wider cord for the outside line, the finer for the inner line. Then make the horizontal lines. Throw a thread
of
:
across a space and
Fig. 424
most of the
manner
working with drawn threads Take a piece of fine cambric and draw the threads out so as to leave a number of open squares surrounded with fine lines, and tack this upon a piece of parchment upon which the design of the lace has been traced. Commence to work by Oveecastino all the fine lines with fine Mecklenburgh thread, and then fill
is partially worked with formed with Genoa TwoThread Stitch. The cord used is Gait's linen cord of two widths. Ti'ace the pattern upon parchment or Toile cire, and tack down on to it the outside straight lines, using
To work
cords, but
cones in Point de Fisston. To form the edge, tack an ornamental braid in scallops, and secure it to the Buttonhole cord with Baes made of Buttonhole, or simply ornament the Buttonhole line with Picots. To work Fig. 425 This design is of a similar make to the last, but it is intended as the border to a fine linen :
and is worked on to the edge of the linen, which away from underneath when the work is finished, the Trace lace being thus made part of the cloth. To work the pattern on the linen with blue carbonised paper and tracing cloth, and back with brown paper, ran a cord to form the outer lines of the pattern, and cover with Buttonhole. Work the thick parts of the lace as shown in Detail A (Fig. 42G) thus The thick lines make with two-thread tablecloth, is
cut
:
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Genoa Stitch, the cones in Point de Feston, and the looped edge in Buttonhole finished with Picots. When
ways
:
Eithex' trace
Fig.
the lace
when
it
is
completed, cut away the liuon from beneath
will
with a
4;;7.
GUEEK POINT
To work Fig. 427 This pattern which is a specimen of the latest kind of Greek Point, and is a copy of a piece of lace found in a convent at Milan, can be worked in two :
the pattern, and outline every part
42(3.
Greek Point
and
fill
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Detail
A,
it,
appear as in Fig. 425.
Pig.
239
Oli
fine cord,
in all thick parts with
BuTTo:i
KETICELLA.
HOLE Stitch, and open parts with Ladder Stitch or. Trace the design upon fine cambric, and tack that to ;
parchment
;
work over
all
the lines of the outline in fine
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
230 Buttonhole, connect those finish
t(_>cpetbei' witli corded Baes, and by cutting away the superfluous camLric outside the
Buttonhole.
:
— An
much resembling
open
silk,
a harvge,
or silk and wool textile,
made both
plain and figured.
Fig. 428.
GREEK
There are a groat many varieties of this description of dress material, employed for summer or evening wear. The widths vary, nmning generally from three-quarters of a yard to 1 yard.
Grenadine Crepon. material,
made
suitable for
—A new description of black dress summer
or evening wear.
It
is
and has a transparent check pattern composed of rows of coarse cords, each stripe of the same width as the thin squares enclosed by their crossings. It is
entirely of wool,
24 inches in width.
Grey
Calicoes.
lace term used with
Gaze au Puseau and
from the ground surrounding it. Grille, Grillage, or Gaze au Fuseau, are terms especially applied to ornaments that have open spaces bari-ed or grated across them, while Toile is used to describe those ornaments that are worked quite thick and without open spaces.
much
;
—
The Fur thus named as having been wcirn in the Middle Ages, although mentioned
Gris, or Grey. so
by Chaucer
as denoting any description of valuable fur, has likewise been affirmed by others to have been that was more probably that of the Marten (which see).
of the grey squirrel, and
Grogram. mohair or
—A
stuff,
mixed material, composed of silk and manufactured in Scotland. The texture
POI NT— IM ITAT 10 N. and the surface rough, being woven with a large woof and rough pile and the name is a corruption of the French gros grain. It is a kind of coarse Tatt'ety, stiffened with gum, and is an inferior article to the more modem and fashionable material, which it somewhat is loose,
;
i-esembles,
known
as
Gros Grain
(which
method often adopted
and Wigan, 33 inches
(heavy extra) and Bolton are
;
all of
and the Wigan Twills the same width.
The
in finishing the edge of a ribbon.
madam
in her
gragram gowD. —Sxnft.
classed as Domestic run from
the Mexican (fine double work),
see).
threads of the warp in both the above-named materials pass over two of the shoots at once, taking up one only, a
'Twag
—Those
29 to 33 inclies in width Victoria,
—A
lace
Greek Point can be imitated with the aid of braids, as shown in the design below (Fig. 428). To work Trace the design upon pink calico, and tack a braid with an open edge round the outlines of the pattern. Overcast the edge of the braid, and secure it in itii place with Buttonhole Bars ornamented with Picots, carried acoss the open parts of the lace, and then sew on a fine cord into the centre of the braid, and fill in the spaces with Sorrento Stitch or Point de Bkuxelles, where the lace is to be thick, and where open with ornamental Wheels and Stars. Sew a lace edging to the scalloped edge of the work.
Grenadine.
Grille.
Toile to distinguish the ornamental flower or pattern of
And
scorned the charmfnl village maid,
With innocence and grogram
bloat.
— Thomson.
^
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Gtos de Messiue.
—A
variety of
having a raised narrow inn-rib.
Gros
de Naples,
It is 18 inclies in width.
—
Gros de Naples. The term " Gros " being the French name signifies a thick Najjles Silk. It is a
for tliiek, the
material somewhat similar to lutestring, but less stout, and
and and is manufactured in this country as well as in Prance, whence it was formerly imported. The chief seat of the manufactm-e in
made both coloured.
England
plain and figured, in various qualities,
much used
It is
is
for dresses,
at Spitalfiolds.
Gros de Naples Ribbon.
— This by
of ribbon, sufficiently described after a kind of
Rep-made
Italian
a handsome make name, being called
is
its
much
silk,
in vogue,
—A
French name for a silk textUo, produced l>y the use of different shuttles with threads of various substances for the weft, by which means a stripe is
Gros des Indes.
formed transversely across the web.
Gros de Suez.
—A description
It is slight in substance,
by milliners for lining bonnets.
of narrow width, has a very small rib,
and
is
known
also as
"Turquoise Silk."
—
A stout black silk, having a fine cord Rep. The colour is dull, and therefore very suitable for mourning. It wears well, and the width varies according to the price. Bee Gkogkam. Gros Grain.
like that of
Gros Point. — The French name (which
Cfioss Stitch
for
see).
Gross.
—A term emijloyed in
Bobbins to a Pin hole by drawing up a loop of one pair through the edge and pajsing the other Bobbins through it,
and work in Cloth Stitch or
commerce
in reference to
certain materials or appliances used in Needlework.
It
in
Beginners' Stem
which attach the Bar by drawing up a pair of Bobbins as a loop through the edge, and passing the other pairs through it tail foremost; draw this loop tightly, twist the Bobljius, and To work a carry them on to the next Bar required. Bride Ground ornamented with a Pearled Edge upon one side: Hang on the Bobbins as before, work across and back in Cloth Stitch, twist six times, take the last Bobbin on the right hand in the left hand, raise it, take a pin in the right hand, twist it once under the thread, GO as to make a looj) round the pin, put it in the Pinhole, take up the Bobbin next to it, and twist it once roimd the pin; work back in Cloth Stitch to the left hand, and return again to the right, and repeat. When the to another edge in the pattern, to
Bar to the pattern To work a number of Bars so as to form a complicated Bride Ground see Devonia Geound and HoNiTON Geound. The Reseau Grounds in Needle and Pillow Laces are much more difficult to make than the Bride Grounds, and required length
of silk stufE employed
231
is
obtained, attach the
as before dcscriljed.
from the time they take to execute, and the cost of the fiax threads required for working them, they double the The worth of the lace upon which they are executed. foundation of all Reseau Grounds is a net pattern, and in Needle and Pillow Lace Ground is usually worked in the Brussels Net Ground, shown in Fig. 430 for the Needle made, and in Fig. 429 for the Pillow made. To work
signifies twelve dozen.
—
Ground Downs. -A description of sewing Needle, so designated because they are cut shorter than the ordinary sewing needles called " Sharps," and formerly ground
mm
shorter, instead of being cut to the desired length.
Grounding —The background,
or supposed foundation
any decorative design in tapestiy, wool work, or other In Berlin or German wool work, English wool is preferable to any other for grounding, as it is less quickly soiled, less deteriorated by brushing, and altogether more durable. The colour of a background or the " grounding " of a piece of embroidery should be selected with a view to showing oft" the colours of
description of embroidery.
of the design.
Like bright metal on a sullen grouniX.
— Shakesjyeare.
— The
grounds of Laces are divided into two kinds one being called the Bride and the other the Reseau. The Bride grounds are formed with plain or ornamented Bars, taken across the open spaces left in the design in such a manner as to connect the ornaments they are worked by the forming the pattern together needle in Needle Laces, and on the Pillow in Pillow Laces. To work Bride Gro imds with the needle Throw several threads across the space left between two parts of a design, and cover these with a thick line of Buttonhole Stitches ornament the Bar thus made with Picots
Grounds.
—
;
:
;
while working, or leave
it
plain according to the pattern.
To work Pillow Bride Ground
:
Hang ou
four pairj of
Fig. 129.
Gkoukb Pillow Eeseac.
Pig. 430 Begin the ground at a corner, as the holes will not otherwise pull into shape; fasten the tkread to the lace or FiL DE Tkace, insert the needle at about the distance of one-sixteenth of an inch, bring it out as for a Button:
hole, but twist the thread once round it, so as to make work to end of space, and at the end of each row fasten the thread to the lace with a strong stitch, and sew over and over the threads back to the commencement, putting two twists into each loop; Oveecast dovin the edge of the lace for 1-16 of an inch, and recommence a twisted strand
;
making the row, putting the stitches this time into the made by the first row. The varieties of Needle made grounds. Dame Joan, Stae, and Steand, are described under their own headings. The Pillow Reseau Honeycomb groimd (illustrated in Fig. 421)) is worked but little at the
loops
present time, it having given place to the Pillow made Bride and the machine made net groimds. It is worked thus: Put up ten pau-s of Bobbins, make a whole Cloth Stitch behind the pin on the right hand side, take up the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
232 pair nearest the left hand, and
make
a
Half Stitch
it
;
twist each pair twice,
;
;
Flu.
130.
G l;
Guimpe. — The French word
with
and put up a pin between them take the pair on the left hand side of the pin, and make a Half Stitch with the pair next to the left hand; twist each pair twice, and put up a pin between them continue this with each pair to the end of the row; make a whole Cloth Stitch behind the left hand pin, and work back to the right with the same stitch. The varieties of Roseau groirnds are Italian and Meciiliij, the pair next to
U
i; 1)
it
for
GiMP
(which
see),
while
also stands for a wimple.
Guiniped Embroidery.
—A description of
Raised
Em-
broidery largely used in ancient church embroideries. To work Cut out from parchment the portions of the work :
and tack these pieces on to the foundation this padding over Bring gold, silver, or silk thread up from the back of the material and pass it over the parcbnicut and put it down again to the back.
to be guimped,
material.
KEEDLE
To cover
KESEAU
:
.
came
Work
manner
until
Point de Paris, Toechon.Teolly, and Valencienneh, and they are mentioned under their own headings. Gneuse Lace. This lace was manufacttu'ed in France
opposite to where
before the time of Colbert, and also during the seventeenth
widely diffused as no longer to bear a definite designation. The word comes from Guipe, a thick cord or thread, rotmd which gold, silver, or silk threads were twisted, and became a lace term, when it was applied to the cord
—
century,
and
is
better
lace is a thread lace is
known as Beggars' Lace. Gueuse made upon the Pillow, the ground
Roseau, and the Toile worked with a thicker thread than The lace that is now made resembling it is
the ground.
called Torchon,
and
is
not so good.
the padding
Guipure.
is
it
up.
in this
quite concealed.
— A lace term which
has gradually become so
introduced into lace that was covered over with thread, and used to raise into relief the chief parts of a design.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
233
Guipui-e gradually
Conte, but the patterns were also cut out of fine linen, and
patterns
Applique to the gi-ound.
came to be applied to all laces of large were connected with the Bride Ground or required no groundings, but as lately the word has also been applied to large flowing pattern laces worked with coarse net grounds, it is impossible to lay down any hard tliat
it, but no fine patterned laces or grounded laces are ever known as Guipures. See Guipure Lace. Guipure ^ Bride. A term applied to Guipure laces whose grounds are made with Brides, to distinguish them from Guipures having no spaces left between the patterns.
and
fast i-ules about
delicately
—
—
Guipure Bar. For the manner of working needlemade Guipure Bar see Guipure d'Art. To work a Pillow Guipure Bar Throw out, while the pattern of the lace is in progress, four pair of Bobbins, 'Eind work in Cloth :
Stitch
to the opposite side,
Fm.
4C1.
the lace at that point.
and work the Bobbins into
guipure Work
D' A E
the Bars alternately from
the Bobbins taken away to form one Bar are returned by if
they
ai-e
Guipure d'Art. and
Filet Guipure,
Filatorium, or
required.
— In this
lace, also
known as
we have the modem
Damed
Filet
Brodc
revival of the
Netting, or Spidei'work, so
Opus
much
During the Middle Ages Network was called Opus Araneum, Ouvrages Masehes, Puuto a Maglia, Lacis, and Point Conte, and its patterns are found in Vineiola's book, published in 1588. The network ground at that time was called Rezel and Rcseau, and is identical with Netting. When this ground was darned with a counted pattern the lace was known as Point used in the fourteenth century.
this
The work was then known
as
find that
with a coarse thread if for furniture. A glazed thread or gimp can be run into the design as in Cluny Guipure.
The
materials necessary for the
work are wire frames
of various sizes, with their wire foundation covered with flannel or ribbon, a wooden netting mesh, an ivory netting needle, long embroidery needles without points
and with
T- A N CI E :;T LY KNOV.'N as opus riLATOKIUM.
side to side of the different parts of the patterns, so that
another
we
term often used by old writers for the damed as well as the applique pattern. The Cluny are another revival of Opus FilaGuipures of modem times torium, and closely resemble Guipure d'Art. In ancient times the netted foundation and the pattern embroidered upon it were executed with gold and silver thi-eads, or with coloured silk or flax, but the lace is now worked with the finest of linen thread when used for di-ess trimmings, and Lacis, although
and coarse linen threads. To commence, The stitch used is the same as plain Netting. For a square of lace, commence from one Netting Stitch, and increase a stitch Then decrease a every row, until the width is formed. For a stitch eveiy row, until only one stitch remains. long piece of lace, commence with one stitch, increase a stitch each row until the width is obtained, then net large eyes,
and
fine
the foundation has to be netted.
without increasing or decreasing until the length of the strip is worked, and then decrease every row until only one stitch remains. To make a circle foundation, net it as a square, and when in the frame mark out the circle with a thick row cf Buttonhole Stitches, and cut away the foundation beyond the Buttonhole circle when the
HH
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
234 lace is completed.
After the foundation
is
netted, attacli
in the square
by lashing each, outei- stitch separately to the frame. The foundation must fit exactly into the frame, and each mesh must he square and drawn out to its fullest extent. If this is not properly done, the stitches worked upon the squares will be irregular, and the lace spoilt. The stitches are now commenced. In ancient designs
immediately
;joining the last
commencement and fastening
that the
Fig. 433
seom-e.
is
squai'e of laco, so as to give the
centre
perfectly
a
taken over one or two meshes, according to the size. TLese are surrounded with a line of Point db Toile, worked to form a diamond and enclose the other stitches. The dots on the pattern indicate where the Point do Toile is to bo worked to complete the diamond. Tlie letters a, a, a, a, mark where Point Venise is worked
4*53.
GairuRE d'Art— "Working Detail.
Eelief.
on the four comers of the square. with Point d'Esprit, the thick parts of the pattern in Point de Toile, and the relief parts in Piiint de Kei^rise. The varieties of stitches that are now used in Guipure they arc, however, chiefly d'Art are of modern origin copied from old Needle Point laces, and theu' use serves to :
increase the value of the work and to enhance its beauty
;
but not more than from four to six varieties should be worked in one design, or its uniformity and solidity wUl be destroyed. The different stitches are described under their various names. They are all worked on to the netted foundation as follows Be careful that the netted :
foimdation squares are perfectly true before commencing the stitches begin in one corner of a square by attaching ;
the thread firmly to the knot, and work from side to side until that square is finished then run the thread over the ;
foundation to the next square, and work Should the next stitch to be woi'ked not commence
line of the netted
is
manner of working. The Point Ciioise Wheel surrounded with Point DE Feston iu cone shape, and finished with long ovals, is
Fig.
in that.
off
a working detail showing an unflnlshed
was used for the Guipure, not raised from the surface, and this description of lace is illustrated in Fig. 431, p. 233, where the darned meshes form a conventional rose and leaf pattern connected together with diagonal lines. In the Guipure en Relief, or raised patterns of the same period, two or three stitches were introduced. These are illustrated in Fisj. 432, where the netted foundnXion is covered over
GnimKE d'Aut— Guirnr.E en
Cord
'must be begun and fastened off in the square, but do not fasten off the thread unnecessarily, and take great care
only one stitch. Point do Toile or the plain darning stitch,
I'lG. 432.
worked,
the thread over the lines of the intermediate squares, to conceal it until the place is I'eached. Solitary squares
it,
For manner of working
When
the various stitches see their headings.
the netted
foundation has been sufficiently covered, unpick it from the frame, and either surround it with an edging formed of
or
Buttonholes, or tack a narrow lace to it as a finish, make it up in alternate squares with coloured silk
In some Guipure d'Art designs the netted foundation is cut away, so as to leave quite open squares between the thick pattern parts. When this is done four or sixteen meshes are cut away, and the edges firmly Buttonholed round, PicoTS being formed over the knot of the netted foundation wherever it appears, thus securing the cut edges more firmly, and ornamenting the sides of or satin.
the open space.
—This
known as Point Pyramide worked in a cone shape over Take four meshes the centre of four squares. To work arranged as a square, and from the centre line at the top Cone.
and
is
made
stitch
is
also
;
of Point de Toile
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. carry four threads
down
to the
bottom
line,
fastening two
at the outer knots on each side, and the other two at an even distance between these knots and the centre. These lines all meeting at the top in the centre and diverging over the whole space at the bottom, form the Cone or Pyramid. Interlace them with Point de Toile, darning
over and under each
line,
and take
make an Etoile over Make Slip Stitch
235
sixteen squares (as
shown
in Fig. 437)
over the four corners of the square of four meshes, crossing in the centre, as shown in Detail Bring the thread out in the centre of the (I''ig. 430). square, and wind it round and round, over and under
A
the Slip Stitch, to form a close AVueel.
Work Point
middle line of
in the
mesh in the working. Fill in from the point to the bottom of the Cone, and keep the lines in their pyramid form and without dragging the stitch. Cone can bo made with only thi'oc lines if required. It is then worked over three meshes upon one line, and a centre mesh above, instead of over a perfect square. Add the two outer lines and one as a centre, and fonn the two side lines of the Pyi-amid by the two sides of the 'middle mesh of the three on one line. Cord Stitch. This is a thick stitch worked roimd three sides of a square with a number of corded threads, and taking up six square meshes. To work Carry a thread across the outer right hand square (see Fig. 431), and CoiiD the
—
:
Fig. t)7.
DE Repbise
Etoile.
form the four points that comiDlete the Etoile. To make an Etoile over four squares Make a plain cross, and then a St. Andrew's Cross over the four squares, and form a Wheel centre by darning over and under the thi'cads forming the ci'osses. To make an Etoile over nine squares (as shown in Fig. 438) Work Slip Stitch in each outside corner, and Point db Toile to fill in the centre square, and the Cones that fill in the other squares and form the star. To make an Etoile over sixteen Make a cross from the four squares corners of the outer squares, and knot as a
Cone,
so as to
:
:
:
Fig.
Etoi:
-133.
to
the netted foundation in
Slip Stitch
roimd every outer knot of
the
Then
the centre
cross
the square, and take the stitch to the centre each time. Treat the cross just made as a knot, and Slip Stitch Fig. 431.
OciruitE l'Aei— Conu
Sincu - Detail A,
back by twisting round it then Cord it along the mesh and carry it across the left hand outer mesh, tind Cord that back Cord down the left side of the centre mesh, and pass the thread round three sides of it (as shown in Fig. 435), and return back by twisting the cotton it
;
centre
;
round it, so that sixteen rays are formed. Each ray is formed with three threads passed round the knot and Complete the Star with a close Wheel into the centre. centre. Fancy Etoilos can be made so as to entirely fill in a whole square of lace with a star-shape pattern like Fig. 439 and 440, or so as to fill in the four- comers of a square, like Fig. 441 (page 238). To work Fig. 439: Work a
m Fig.
43.5.
s^
Point Cboise
as a
m
GuirnnE D'AnT-Cono Stiicu. Fig.
round the thread; pass another thread round the three sides of the centre mesh, and Cord that back work four
tiD. Gdipcke d'Akt— Etdile, i'OEHBD OP Maltese Point.
Goii-uue i/Aut— Etoile, fokmed oe Point de Toile.
Fig. 440.
;
shown in Fig. 435. Also known as Star, and made to
centre,
lines xmtil the stitch is finished, as
Etoile Stitch.
—
fill
Point.
and fill in the four squares round it with Maltese Leave the four squares beyond the Maltese Point
in nine or sixtcea squares of a netted foundation, with
ones plain, anxl
combinations of Slip Stitch, Poiut de Toile, Point de Venise, or Point do Kcprise, arranged to form stars. To
and work
Po^T
fill
the ones at the side with
DE T01L13 over the
Wheels,
rest of the netted
fouridation.
U H
2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
236
Make an eight-armed Wheel Buttonhole square Work Point de Toile in pyramid shape in
To work over
tlie
Fig.
thread across a square mesh and cover
440:
of
four centre squares, -with a
as a finish.
it
with a thick lino
or use the netted foundation for the Bar,
and work over that a
close, thick row of Buttonhole. Guipure en Relief. The most effective oi'nament to Guipure is the Raised Work that is made as part of the design, and that is worked over the flat stitches that fill in the netted foundation. This Raised Work is principally formed of Genoa Stitch or in Point de Reprise, arranged as sprays of leaves and flowers, quite separate from the work beneath; but large raised crosses and stars and long lines
—
'
the four squares on each side siirrounding the Wheel, and outline the lace with a Buttonhole edge. Fig. 441
^IS^mitMjfmf^^mm
,_
Buttonhole,
!fai!«ii!iii!ii^^!i!il»iiS!
Fig.
41:1.
Gi^ipure d'Art— Etoiles,
illustrates Etoiles
The
Etoiles
formed
W(Ith I'oint de Venise,
used at the four corners of a square.
make with Point de Venise,
Fig. 4i3.
part of the design with Point de Toile, and the open part
with Point d'Espkit and Wheels.
—Used
making of Greek Lace as and resembling the Point de Genoa Stitch is Reprise used in Guipure en Relief. worked over two or three foundation threads, according to form. To work over the thickness of the Bar it is to Pass two foundation threads, as shown in Fig. 442 two threads across the space to be filled, secure them Genoa
Stitch.
Guipure en Relief— Flower S
the thick
in the
well as in Guipure d'Arfc,
can be formed with it. The foundation beneath the raised work is sometimes left plain, but is generally filled in with To work either Point de Toile or Point d'Espkit. Guipure en Relief Fasten the thread across two or more squares, according to the length of the leaf, and make an oval with it, then darn the thread thickly in and out of :
this oval.
To work the spray shown
in Fig. 413
:
For the petals
:
throw the thread across two squares and form an oval, and then bring a thread up the centre of the oval, dam in and out between these three threads, the additional of the flower,
tlu'cad giving the veined look to the petals.
Fig. 413.
Guipdee
d'
Art— Genoa
Work aU
the
Siitch.
tightly, and leave one-eighth of an inch between them, then darn over and under the two threads until a solid compact line is made, with a plait in the centre. To work Cross the space to be over three foundaiion threads filled with three threads, putting them not quite an eighth inch apart, and out of them as before of an and darn in the third thread will make the thick close line wider than
Fir.. 4it.
Guipure en Relief— Corner.
:
;
the one formed with only two foundation threads. Guipure Bar. Only occasionally used in Guipure en
—
Relief as part of the design.
To work
:
Either throw a
petals in this manner,
and fill the centre
of the flower with
a Wheel. Work the leaves in the same way and form the stems with a thread thickly Overcast. Connect the stems to the netted foundation by occasionally including that in the Overcast.
To work
the corner shown in Fig. 444
:
Commence
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. the netted foundation with one stitch, work ten rows, and inci'ease a
stitch each row.
Pill in the outside
line
of
Point d'Espeit and the whole of the interior with Point de Toile. Over the last work the Guipure en stitches with
and
fill
237
in four squares of the foundation with that stitch. these squares in the oval shape
Darn over the outside of shown in the illustration, the centre.
Work
so as to raise that part above
three small
Genoa Stitch
leaves
at
Genoa
Stitch, as shown in Fig. 442, the stems in Overcast, and the buds as close Wheels. Relief; the leaves in
To work the lappet shown foundation and stars in
in Fig.
Buttonhole round
Point de Toile, the
445
:
the edge.
Net Work
loops proceeding from
the the
them
and the twelve-armed star in Genoa Stitch, with throe foundation threads, distinct from foundation, as Ovals,
the point of the seed vessel, and four large and three small leaves at the base. Make the buds of close
Wheels, and with Point Jours.
— These
de Toile and Slip Stitch,
are the open stitches in Guipure, and are so called to distinguish them from the thick stitches.
The term includes Point d'Esprit, Point Croise, Ovales, Point de Gerbe, and Wheels formed with Point d'Esprit. Maltese Point. A variety of Cone or Pyramid,
—
and deriving
its
so that four of
name from
its
stitches being arranged
them form a Maltese
Cross.
To work
Twist the thread for a short distance round the lower line of a square mesh, then loop it round the upper line and return it to the lower, so that the two lines form a
pyramid twist the thread up one of these to the top, and interlace these two threads together with Point de ;
Fi'S. i45.
as
shown
in Fig.
41-15,
GoirDR in the
same
stitch
•
for the stem and the circle Buttonhole a thread laid over the foundation, and ornament it with loops as Picots. Cut away those parts of the foundation that are not required when the work is finished.
To work the corner shown
Guipdeh d'Art— Maltese Poikt.
Fig. 447.
and the leaves
in Fig. 446
:
Net
the
foundation as before mentioned, fill in the outside line of stitches with Point de Toile and the rest of the netting with Point Ceoisb. Work the sprays of leaves in Genoa
Stitch, as shown in Fig. 442, and the stems in Overcast. For the seed vessel, work the centre in Point dc Toile,
Venise
for half the length of the square {see Fig. 447)
then carry the thread so as to take in the netted outer and work in Point de Yenise down to the bottom of the square, passing the thread over and imder lines of square,
the four lines each time. Ovals.
— These are long loops
of an oval shape
worked
in the centre of a square mesh, or in the centre of four
To work
Twist the thread round the netted foundation until it reaches the centre of a square, then carry it down from the top to the bottom line of the mesh, loop it through and bring it back to where it started from meshes.
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
238 loop
it
through at that place, and form the Oval with three round the netted foundation
loops, then twist the thread
Picot.
— These
ornaments
to the edge of Wheels, Bars,
and the outer edge of Guipure, are made in various ways. To finish a Bar or an Edge with a fringe of loops Work a Buttonhole upon the Bar, and insert the needle into :
the lower part of it, to make a loop at its edge, then continue the row of Buttonholes, and work a loop into
every thii'd Buttonhole. To ornament a Wheel or a Bar with a thick Picot
Buttonhole
into the edge working thread plain for inch, then make a tight Buttonhole the space left plain, and one into the
Make
a
of the foundation,
an two upon foundation close to the first made Buttonhole. Pioots are also made round a knot of the netted foundation in the shape of a cross or star they then form part of the design of the lace in the the eighth of
leave the
Fig. 443.
Goipuee d'Art— Ovals and roiNi t'Eetkit StiTcn.
upon
it,
;
to the nest square.
Fig. 418 is
Fig.
4-19.
an
illustration of a piece of
OUIPUEE
D' A
RT— Showing
with Point d'Espeit. Overcast. Used to form the fine stems to the leaves in Guipure en Belief. To make Either cover a line of the netted foundation with close Ovekcast Stitches, or thi-ow filled in
—
:
a thread across the lace, secure over that.
it
illustrated in Fig.
4-19.
Stak, Picots, Udipuue en Kelief, and Point de Toile.
Guiptu'e where four Ovals form an open cross, with coracrs
and centre
manner
with a knot, and Overcast
To work as a cross Fasten the thread securely and push the needle half through the knot, so that the point comes out in one of the angles of the mesh; wind the thread round the needle from right to left ten times, place the left thumb upon it to keep it steady, and pull the needle through, leaving the wound threads forming a thick loop between the meshes. Secure this with an Ovd;e;ca.8T, ;
THE DICTIONARY OP NEEDLEWORK. and push the needle again half thi-ough the kn(jt and bring it out in another angle and repeat. Fill in the four angles sui-roundiug the knot this
so as to miike a cross in
manner.
238)
knot
it
The
MQ
Fig.
(page
of four ineshes,
to the foulidation in the centre, then
angle as described in the Star.
fill
in each
remainder of the
design work as follows: The centre work in
Point pe
ToiLE, Buttonhole roimd its edge, and ornament it with Guipure en Relief in a Star pattern. Suvroxmd this centre with a diamond in Point de Toilo, and form the thick outer edge with the same stitch, where ornament it with Herringbone worked over it; run lines of thick Glace thread upon each side of the -thick edges, and connect the last to the Buttonhole surrounding the inner square with a line of Herringbone.
Point Croisc.
—This stitch
is
fill
thread up the
loop to the place
first
it
started fi'om.
To work
Fig. 451, wliich
is a combination of the twisted and simple Point Croisc, over fom- meshes Take
in single meshes,
and
it
is
vra-ied
The
with either a plain or twisted thread.
a diagonal line across two meshes from twist this Tip to the centre
the left
hand lower
make a
take the thread
;
knot, twist
Wheel
close
left to light,
it
up
and
down
to the centre
;
to
here
round the three threads, and then it, up to the top right
pass the thread, without twisting
hand knot, and commence another
stitch
over the next
four meshes.
Foint de (which .see).
Point
Bnixcllcs,
d'Esiorit.
many
also
— This
used in Guipure, as
it
is
fills
called
Point
de
Feston
a light open stitch, most in the netted squares with
varieties of design, the foundation of
all being can bo woi-ked as a single loop in each square, as shown in Fig. 452, or as four loops in a square,
a simple loop.
either used for ground-
ing a design in the same manner as Point d'Fsprit, or to
239
:
To make the eight pointed star in Work a Point Ckoise over a square
:
finally twist the
also
shown
It
in Fig. 452, or as
an interlaced thread, aa
by being made stitch consists
two lines of Point Serre, forming a cross in a mesh, which is finished with a single Buttonhole on a rosrtti' in the centre, where the four threads meet. To work simpilo Point Croise
of
Work
a line of
Point Serre
across
a certain number of square meslies,
from
left to
and same meshes
right of the lace,
return back over
tlie
with another line of Point Serre, but ... .,, , where the second line crosses the first in
Guipuke r.'Ar.T Twisted I'oint Cuoisk.
Fio. 450.
the centre of the square, ma,ke a single
hole with it over down to the lower and pass
it
Button-
the diagonal line there, then take
it
knot of the mesh, twist it round, into the next mesh. Buttonhole it over the
diagon;il line tliere,
left
and take
it
up
knot of that mesh, and repeat until
to the top left all
hand
are filled with the
cross.
To work a twisted Point G'roisc Make a loose h op from the left hand top knot to the right hand top knot tf a mesh, and twist the thread back to the centre, then looj)
Point u'Espkit.
riG. 4^2.
shown in
Fio. 453.
PoisT n'EsPRiT.
Fig. 453, or as filling in the entire gi-ound of
the netting, except where a thick pattern is worked in Guipure en Relief {see Fig. 432), or as a Wheel or Star in fact, the combinations that can be made with it are
:
To work for a single line Fasten the thread knot in the square, put the needle under the next knot, and draw up loosely so as to make a loose Buttonhole [see Fig. 452), and work a row of these numerous.
:
close to a
loose Buttonholes one into every square.
To
fill
in
a
Work
a loose Buttonhole over every knot of the netted foundation. To interlace: Work a loose Buttonhole into every mesh, not round the knot, but in the square
centre,
:
of Buttonholes on the made, interlacing the second loops made ones over the side lines of each mesh
and return by a similar row
line beneath those just
mth
the
first
{sec Fig. 453).
To make Diamonds with Point d'Esprit Fasten the thread at the right hand top knot of the square, put it :
Fig,
it
"451.
into the right
GDirmiE d'Aet—Point Croise.
hand lower knot, and twist it back to left hand lower knot, and twist
under the bottom line of the square without looping it, and then over the left hand top knot without looping it; work the whole line so, and then return back with the same stitch, only varied, by taking in the old thread with
the centre, then into the
the new.
back into the centre, unite the threads with a Buttonhole or form a close Wueel (as shown in Fig. 450), and
diamond rows.
Where they meet is
in the centre of a square, a
formed by the points of the stitches in the two
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
240
For interlaced Point d'Esprit with an open I'ound in This requires four square meshes, two each way; work a single Buttonhole line round the outside of all the squares, and then run the thread into the loose part of every loop, an 1 draw it up as a circle, and finish by OvEECASTiNa this circle. For Wheels in Point the centre
:
Wheels.
d'Esprit see
—
Point de Feston. This consists of a Buttonhole Stitch worked from side to side of the mesh, either as a single line to form a border to a pattern, or as a number of lines to fiU in a mesh with a pyramid-sliaped design. To work as a Border Fasten the working thread to a knot, and Overcast round each side of the various meshes that are to form the border to the lace, or to that piece of the pattern. Work close rows of Buttonhole over this Overcast, and ornament the thick line thus formed with PiCOTS, or leave it quite plain. To work to fill in successive meshes, and as shown in Fig. 454 Begin at the left side of a mesh and work six :
over the top line of the mesh, and secure
it
after looping
with a Buttonhole, then simply loop it over the lower line of mesh without securing it repeat the stitch in the ;
same square
five times,
and then draw the threads together
by enclosing them all in a Buttonhole. Point de Bepasse. See Point de Toile. Point de Reprise, This is a thick stitch, and will be found in nearly all patterns, either filling in one separate netted square or a number together with thick lines of thread. To work for one square Pass the needle under in the centre
— —
;
and over the bottom, and work upwards and downwards until the square is filled the top line of the square (see Fig. 456).
:
Buttonholes
to the opposite end, making each enough to allow of a needle being put into it. right to left, and make four loose Buttonholes, fastening them into the four centre Buttonholes of the last row. Work a^ain from left to ri':;ht with tliree loose
stitch loose
Work back from
Fio. 453.
To work
GniPor.E
d'Act— Point de Eepuise.
several squares together
over and under each thread of a reached, then
with a
return
similar
Pass the needle
:
mesh
until the last ij line
back,
only
reversing the over and under so that the threads interlace.
To work
Fia.
GD7PDRE u' Art— Point DE Feston.
-ISl.
Pig. ioj.
CurrunE d'Akt— Puikt de Feston.
lai'ge
netted meshes quite thick
:
Make
a
foundation of four diagonal lines to fill in the square, and then dam these in and out and backwards and forwards, including the outer lines of foundation in the darning,
and forming the ribbed appearance shown
in Fig. 457.
Buttonholes fastened into the centre stitches of the last row return with two stitches, and finish with only one Buttonhole quite in th^ centre, and forming a point. Pull this stitch down to the square beneath, and fasten it there in the centre of the line, then Overcast to the left of that mesh, and commence another stitch. To work Fig. 455 Fill in a square mesh as described above, but with eight Buttonholes, and when the ;
:
last stitch is
reached, instead of Overcasting along the
square beneath
to the left and filling that mesh, comwork Battonholos to the right, and work four Buttonholes upon half that mesh, and four upon the mesh on the right hand next to it; work the stitch as before, but upon each side of two meshes, and not in the
mance
centre of one. of
it
at once to
Point de Feston
is
sometimes used instead
Point ds Toile or Point de Reprise
to
fill
in
a mesh it is then made with straight rows of eight Buttonholes worked backwards and forwards without diminution until the entire square is filled in. Point de Gerbe. So called from the resemblance the ;
—
stitch bears ^
when completed
ariety of Point Faisceau.
to a she.if of corn.
To work
:
It is a
Loop the thread
Fig. 457.
Point de
Guipure d'Akt— Point de Reprise,
Toile.
— Also
known
and one of the
stitches
their centres.
Each mesh can be
as Point de Rcpasse,
most used in Guipure, as either it or Point de Reprise are worked to form the thick parts of most designs. It is a simple darn, worked with great care and exactitude in and out the meshes, and so filling in or a whole
the stitch
separately darned over,
row darned over at once, the important part of being that the same number of threads are used
IAN
NEEDLEWORK.
BULGARIAN NEEDLEWORK.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. auy departure from this rule eutailing a of regularity in the woi-k. To work Point de Toile as
in every square, loss
one square: Fasten the thread firmly in one corner of tlie to be filled, then pass tlie needle round the tliread
mesh
of tlie
mesh nearest
it,
cross to tlie opposite side, pass
over that thread, bring
and
it
back to where
Single Point de Venise
241
frequently worked as shown in Pig. 461, in the corner angles of nine meshes, the other meshes being filled in with Wheels made with is
Point Ceoise, aud with a
centre of
Point de Toile.
it
started from,
it
repeat, so that four or sis threads, according to the
size of the mesh, are laid across the square then slip the thread round the corner, and darn in and out of these threads, by taking and leaving each alternate thread. ;
Dam in four or six
threads corresponding with the number
laid across.
To work Point de
Toile as shown in Fig. 458, and over Take the longest line of squares, and pass the four or sis threads from end 'to end of them, over and under each mesh several squares
as they reach
round the before
if
it
last
then
;
slip
corner,
the stitch
is
is
the thread
;
OF
d'Esprit,
A
good border pattern is made as shown in Fig. 462, with Point de Toile, Point d'Espeit, and Single Point
—
Point Eventail. A variety of Point de Venlse, stitch formed by filling up with a three-quarter Wheel three of the centre corners of four meshes. Point
and a
but when
required to form several thick
squares in different directions, place
the threads across in position both for
GuiruRE !>' Art— Border Point de Venise, Point and Point de Toile.
Fig. 4G2.
DE Venise, Point Croise, Point de Toile, & "Wheel.
de Venise.
and darn as to cover one
long single line of meshes it
Pia.iCl. GuiPoiiED'AnT— Point
:
Eventail
is
Fig. 463,
is
'
Fia. 4:
made
in two ways; the simplest, illustrated in worked as follows Fasten the working thread :
and width before they are darned together, and darn straiglit down their width their length
at once without reference to the
number
of squares to be
filled in.
—A stitch largely used
in Guipure to Guipure en Relief to form raised masses. Dilfereut designs can be made by the various arrangements of Point de Venise in angles, but the stitch is the same in all of them. To work single Point de Venise This consists of filling in only one angle Carry a thread of a square, and is shown in Fig. 459. diagonally across a mesh, twist it round the upper knot, and loop it backwards and forwards over the two sides of
Point de Venise.
fill
in the angles of meshes,
and
also in
:
the mesh, so as to interlace
tlie
diagonal thread each time.
Fia.
4C-".
Udipuke
d'
Art— Point
Evi ktail.
diagonally across a mesh and wind it round the lower knot, and then over and under as in darning the four threads of the meshes aud the one thread across the mesh Do not darn the tliread as a continuous just added.
Pia. 4CI
Point
t>f.
Venise.
Gii
Point de Vekl
and cover over the three threads and form a triangle.
Work
mesh is half filled then Coed up the diagonal thread, and commence in another square. To work Double Point de Venise, as shown in Fig. 4G0 Work as before, but before the centre of the mesh is quite readied CoED up the diagonal line, and make another
round, but loop it back each time it reaches the two outer threads of the mesh, so that it forms a three-quarter Wheel aud leaves one side of the knot unenclosed.
Point do Venise into the coi-ner opposite the one first
When
until the
•pro. 4Gt.
;
:
filled.
GcircKE
d'
Art— Point Eventail
a large enough Wheel
is foi-med,
ran the thread
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
242
up to the knot and pass it diagonally across tlie mesL on that side at tlie part not filled in and commence close
another
stitch.
To work
Fig. 464 Before commencing the stitch, caiTy a separate thread in a diagonal direction across three or f om- meshes then fasten the working thread in a :
until the close
diamond, shown in Fig. 466,
is
made.
To
work thi'ce more of the close diamonds, and surround them with interhiced Point d'Esfeit and finish Fig. 466,
a line of
Buttonhole
scallops.
;
contrary diagonal direction across a mesh, so as to meet the first thread at a knot, and dam in and out the sis that there meet in the same
lines
way
as already de-
scribed, leaving one side of the knot free.
—
~Point Faisceau. A stitch not much used in Guipure, but forming a variety of Point de Toile and Point de Feston for filling in thick parts of the lace. When worked
presents the appearance of a number of HeiTingbone Stitches united together with a loop in the centi-e. To it
work
Fasten the thread securely to the left hand top knot of a square mesh, take it down to the bottom, and loop it there round the bottom thread and secure it with two turns round that thread, take it up to the top, loop :
round, and secure
bottom, cross
as before
it
;
take
it
down again
to the
over the last thread in so doing, and
it
Continue to pass ^wp and down the mesh in it is fiUed with ten threads, then fill in the next square with the same stitch and any others in the pattern. Finish by fastening a fresh thread where the secure
it.
way
this
until
Fig. 4G5.
Point Tidlage.
GaipURE d'Art— Poixt Serre.
— An
open stitcli formed of crossed and worked as follows Cany the thread diagonally across a mesh, and twist it round the knot so that it comes out at the back of the nest mesh. Bun up the netted foundation across thj squares with this threads,
:
was fastened, caiTy this down to the centre of the and make a Buttonhole, taking in all the ten threads in it; i-un the thread up to the right-hand top knot of the mesh and fasten there, and then down into the middle of the second mesh, where rejieat the Buttonhole, and continue to repeat the Buttonhole in first
first square,
every square.
Point
mesh
to
Ldclie.
form a
—A
stitch
worked diagonally across a To work: Fasten the
filled-iu triangle.
thread to the top left-hand knot of the mesh, secure it with a Buttonhole round the top line, then pass the thread to the left-hand line of the mesh, and there
with a Buttonhole, and continue to pass the thread between the two lines, and Buttonhole it to secure
it
them until it fills in the mesh number of diagonal lines. Point Pyramicle. Point Serre.
—A
— See
with
a
variety of Point de Feston worked
diamond
It consists of a
as a diamond:
in the centre of
Point de Feston
Loop the thread round the
centre knot of four squares, and then round every thread of the foundation that holds that knot in succession.
Work
i-ound
—Worked like Guipure Bar, but instead
of straight Bars along a design,
drawn tight at each stitch instead of being left as a loop. To work as a singe line: Loop the thread round the bottom lefthand knot of a square, and then round the top right-hand knot, draw it up tight, and continue to the end of the space. (This is shown in the top line of Fig. 465.) For the rest of the design, work a close diamond as a centre, surrounded by Slip Stitch.
To work
stitch (see Fig. 467), a.nd to return make the same stitch back, but reverse the direction of the diagonal line, so that it crosses the first one in the centre of every square.
Raijleigh Bar.
Cone.
as a single line or as a fiUed-in
four square meshes.
to the centre
Guipure D'ART-PoI^'T Ti::LLAaE.
Fig. 467.
the knot seven times
with
these
loops,
work irregularly shaped
Bars.
Bone.
— Also called Wheel and Spider Stitch, and made and Point de Toile, or of Point To work as shown in Fig. 468, with Point Ceoise: Pass the thread
either with Point Croise
d'Esprit.
across into the four corners of the square
and into the centre of the four sides, and twist it up each thread in returning Then pass it over and to the centre. under each thread as in Point de Toile rmtil a largo rosette is foi-med in the centre. rosette can be
The outer edge of this The size of the varied by the number of
ornamented with Picots.
Bones made in
this
manner
are
the squares of the netted foundation they are worked over, one square being the smallest, sixteen the largest, and four squares the usual size. Roues of Point d'Esprit are made
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. thus Work upon a square made of four meshes, and fill in with an open Rone made in two ways. For one, work a Point d'Bspeit in every square, and connect the loops together with a thread run into them to draw them
half
:
way between the
centre knot and the Point d'Esprit
edging. Fig. 469 illustrates various arrangements of Rones.
The thick parts of the pattern are made of Genoa Stitch as worked in Guipuee en Relief, the Rones filling in one square of Point Croise, while the Spider web Roues are made as follows Take a foundation thread across the square from corner to corner, and Cord it back up to the centre, run the thread from this to the knot and Cord it back to the foundation thread and along to where Then fill in the angle with lines of it first commenced. thi'ead at even distances apart, and loop each line round the thread taken to the knot when they come to it. To make a perfect Rone fill in the angles of four squares with :
liliiiiii
^
this stitch,
\>vA,
in the illustration, with the exception of
the centre, only three angles are thus is filled with a Point Croise Wheel.
'^^^M
a
Wi
243
ei
filled,
and the fourth
Sli^ S«ifc7i.— Worked as Point Lache to fill in half thick triangle, but as a series of loops
mesh with a
from corner to corner without the securing Buttonhole (see Point Ldche).
—See Rone. — See Bone.
Spider.
Wheel. iTiQ. 469.
—
Gdipcke d'Aut— Arrange3]
Guipure de Flandre. The name given generally to made on the pillow, to distinguish them from the Flemish Laces made with the needle.
old Flemish Laces
and make an open round for the other, make a Point Okoise from the fom- corners of the square and together,
;
Fig. 470.
GUIFUKE
it together in the centre, work a loose Point d'Esprit in every square, counting the threads as a square so that
knot
eight Point d'Esprit are made.
Draw
Guipure en Relief.
these loops together
with a thread run round them, to form an opei? circl^
— See Guipuee d'Aet.
LACIi.
of Braid and Tape and the more elaborate kinds, such as Flemish Point or Point deBrabant, differs but slightly from that used \n Honiton Lace, which is a Guipure worked with very
Guipure Laces.— The making both
Guipui-es
I I
'2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
244
fine thread, a variety of stitclies,
and with Raised Work,
while the ordinary Braid Guipures are worked with coarse thread and with Cloth Stitch, joined by Bars, and with
and the Flemish Points without Work in Relief. Tlie method of dressing the Pillow, pricking the patterns, winding the Bobbins, and making the stitches are the same in all, and are described under their own headings therefore it will not be necessary to recapitulate them for these coarser laces. To work the pattern, Pig. 470, which is entirely formed with Braid and Bars, and is a copy of a lace made in the seventeenth century Prick the pattern upon parchm ent, and mount it upon the Pillow, with the straight tape edge to the right. Dress the Pillow, and hang on seven pairs of Bobbins, filled with fine thread, and a pair plain patterns
;
;
;
Fig. 471.
with Gimp. Tie the pairs together, wind the knots out of the way, and then knot them all together and pin them to the pillow where the letter A is shown in pattern,
pushing in the pin to its head. Arrange the Bobbins as three working pairs or Rimners, four Hangers or Passive pairs, and the Gimps to strengthen the edge, and work the straight piece of Braid that borders the work for the length of the pattern in Cloth Stitch and Plain Edge leave the Bobbins hanging so as to continue this edge when the pattern is shifted, and tie up eight new paii-s, filled with ;
Divide these
new Bobbins
marked
B
in the illustration.
into three pairs of
Runners and
Hangers, and commence to work the looped part of the braid with them. Work in Cloth Stitch with five pairs of
;
curve with
;
drawing up a thread with the crochet hook and passing the next Bobbin through the loop tail foremost make this Sewing upon each side of the Braid, working over the Braid to prevent it from moving when taken ofE the Pillow; drive the plus in at the places where the Sewings arc made, so that they do not catch in the lace, and as the work proceeds remove these pins, leaving only a sufficient number to keep the lace ia its place. Woi-k with Clotli Stitch and Plain Edge all the rest of the pattern, making ;
the cui-ves witli False Pinholes in the inside, the pattern wherever
it
and attaching
touches either the curves or the
TLEMISH POINT GUIPUEE LACE.
filled
fine thread, into the pinhole
Edge until the first curve is reached round the False Pinholes on the inside until the place where the braid crosses is reached make a Sewing by Plain
straight braid edge with Sewings.
Ha'sdng finished the
work the Bars with Purl Edge that connect it together thus Take eight pair of Bobbins, wind the knots out of the way, attach them to the Plain Edge at a Bar by drawing up a loop of one pair through the edge, and pasi^ing the others through it, draw up tight, and work Cloth Stitch across, and without setting up a pin, work back, twist six times, take the last Bobbin on the right hand in the pattern,
:
left
hand, raise
it,
take a pin in the right hand, twist
it
round the pin, put it in the Pinhole, take up the Bobbin next it, twist it once round the pin, work back in Cloth Stitch to the once under the thread in a
left lip
hand, a pin
return
on the
loojj
again to the right without putting put up a Purl pin, and work
right,
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Bar
open work between the leaves, by either wox-king with the whole forty-four Bobbins from side to side, making
completed and the place it draw up a loop with the hoot, and pass two of the Bobbins through it tail foremost; draw the loop tightly up, cut off two pairs of Bobbins, being careful that they are not the ones used in making the loop or those that passed through it twist the remaining four very tightly, and carry them on to the next Bar if close to the last made, if not, cut off and plait up all the Bobbins, and hang them on where required. _ The Bars can bo made like the Brides in Needle laces with in this is
manner
until the
is
to be joined to is reached, then
one
Buttonhole, and ornamented with Picots as far as
tinue
it,
shown take
When
in illustration,
iip all
it is
instead of
is completed wished to con-
part of the work
in
steadying
Bars
A until the end
first
from
it
with a pin, or by into B and then
A
Work
of the leaf is reached.
in this pattern,
when the
tracing of
GUIPURE LACES.
roll up the lace the lace and re-arrange its end over the commencement of the pattern, take up the Bobbins laid aside with the straight edge, and work that part first, and then pick up those that formed the curved braid and still
iato
;
the pins, leaving those at the last
Fig. i-^.
B
them is reached, with four pairs of Bobbins thrown out upon each side, and make them alternately from side to side, so as not to decrease the number of Bobbins, make them either by rolling the top Bobbins I'ound and round, drawing one up through the Pinhole, passiug a Bobbin through the loop tail foremost, and drawing up the loop or by working them in Cloth Stitch, and adding Purl Pin Work. The working the Bars at the same time as the lace makes it the
the pattern
and
Ladder Stitch and
twisting a pair of Bobbins
from
;
being made on the Pillow.
245
;
finished in a small bag,
I
all the Bobbins at the same time, and a little confusing, but the Bobbins not in immediate use can be rolled up out of the way, and where the pattern nar-
necessary to put up is
rows they can be tied off gradually and again added at the side pins where it widens. Put up for the Purl Edge and
Footing when commencing the
lace, sis paii-s of
continue as before.
for the
To tvork the Flemish Point Guipure, as shown in Figs. 471 and 472 Prick off the pattern, and trace the outlines of the Bars with a fine pen. Dress the Pillow, and put the pattern on to it with the Purl pins on the left hand side put up twenty pairs of Bobbins at A, and twenty-four pairs at B, and work down with both sets in Cloth Stitch as
Bobbins for the Purl, and four pairs for the Footing. Tlie small wheel in leaf A, work in Wheel Stitch. Work leaf in Cloth Stitch with Wheels, form the centre with two rows of Pinholes, and the knots between them make with a Cloth Stitch with a pair of Bobbins taken from each side, p\it in the pin, give the Bobbins three twists both before and after making the stitch. To woi-k leaf D Put up Bobbins at D, and work round the cmwe with False
:
;
far as the division, piece, as
shown
in
making the small holes in the cmwed Holts Stitch and Beaid and the
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
246
Pinholes, work in Olotli Stitcli and Laddei- Stitch. To work leaf E: Work in Cloth Stitch on its left side, and in Hole Stitch on its right. The leaf F work with Cloth Stitch, Hole Stitch, and a Wheel. Work leaf G in Cloth Stitch and in Slanting Hole Stitch thus
Work
up twenty-four Bobbins for the edging, ten Bobbins for each border, and four for the lozenges in the centre. Work in Cloth Stitch, detach two of the centre Bobbins and
with twelve Bobbins, take the four on the right
hand and work to the pin, leave them hanging, and take the two first pairs after the pin, twist them twice and leave them hanging; take the second paii-, twist them twice, and leave them hanging, and continue this up to the last pail- on the left hand side; return to the right hand four behind the pin, work them over to the left side, give the Runners a twist twice between each stitch until the work is carried across and the pin worked in, then twist the pair in front of the pin twice, and leave them hanging twist each pair twice, and take up the left hand Bobbin behind the pin; work in the pin and twist the Runners twice between each pair of Bobbins, work back to the right hand. The curved leaves near Gr work in Cloth Stitch, with Hole Stitch and Wheel where drawn. The leaf H work in Cloth Stitch down the outer side. Ladder in the centre, and Wheel on the left side. Where the Bars form a triangle at the point of H unite the two sets of Bobbins that work the two Bars, and make with them the third Bar. To work the Cone marked I set up thi-ee sets of Bobbins at the thi-ee points of the cone, work the centre point in Cloth Stitch, with Knots between each Pinhole, as described for leaf C. In the right hand point make a hole decorated with Pukl Pin, and all the lower leaves with one or two holes decorated ui the same manner. Work the stem in Cloth Stitch, and make the open work between the leaves by twisting the Bobbins and putting in a pin. Work leaves J, K, L in Cloth Stitch with Hole Stitch on the under side and Ladder Stitch to divide them. Commence the flower, M, in the centre with a Wheel, and bring the J3obbins down for the under part and stem. Work the right hand part of the leaf underneath the letter M in Lattice Stitch, the left hand part of the same leaf in Cloth Stitch, with the divisions made by twisting the Bobbins and putting up pins, and be careful Commence the leaf N to add Bobbins for any wider part. at the under part of the cui've, work in Cloth Stitch with at and P, and decorate this leaf Holes, adding Bobbins
Pig, 473.
QuirunE Iksertion.
;
with Purl Pin. Commence leaf Q at the oiu'ved point, work in Cloth Stitch and Open Cross Stitch. Work the
under part in Cloth Stitch, with additional Bobbins put up at the points, and work down and tie off, and when R is reached leave enough threads to work up round R, S, T, and U, and then tie them off. Work round all these leaves with Purl Pin. Having worked the pattern, remove the lace from the pillow and roll it up in a piece of clean linen, pin it flatly again on the pillow at the upper part of
The illusthe pattern, and recommence the work. the same pattern as Fig. 471, but
twist to
with
form the Bars, and make the loops in the centre
ilPuiiL
to
the edging. Fig. 474, in Cloth
"174.
GnipnEE Edgisg.
form the plaited edge, and ornament the scallops with
Purl Pin in the same way.
Guipure Renaissance. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;^An embroidery worked in Guipure Laces, and made with
imitation of the Tape
coarse cheese cloth, ecru coloured cords of various sizes,
and com sewing silk. The work is used for mats, antimaTo work as shown in Fig. 475 cassars, and furniture lace. Select the kind of cheese cloth that is used to strain cream through, three sizes of ordinary cord, and a fine cord made Commence by making the largest centre round of ecru silk. of the largest sized cord, then fold pieces of the cheese
cloth into eight
wedge - shaped
pieces,
and secure their
back stitcli these on to the round of cord, make a smaller round with the second sized cord, and stitch the points of the wedges to this. Sew inside the second cord a round made with the third sized cord, and to that sew the fine ecm silk cord, twisting it in tui-ned-in edges at the
;
the manner shown in the pattern. Form the smallest circle with the largest sized cord, secure that to the points of the twisted ecru cord,
a
Wheel made
covered with
and
fill
in
the
centre with
ecm silk, with a well padded Buttonhole in ecru silk. Return of
centre to the
and shape the cheese cloth to form the and the straight lines that proceed from them.
larger circle, half circles
without the letters. Figs. 473 and 474 illustrate an insertion and edging made of coarse lace thread (No. 40), or with black silk or
made
The pricked pattern and the lace are both given to show the manner of working, which is To work Fig. 473 prick the pattern, put extremely easy.
Work
Fig.
tration. Fig. 472, is
ecru colom-ed mohair.
Pin.
Stitch twist the thi-eads for the Bars, plait them together
Connect the straight pieces together with a half circle, of the largest sized cord, sewn to the large circle, and
finish that with a twisted half cii-cle of ecru cord.
Bend
the large cord round the outside of the lace, in the shape shown in the pattern. Finish the lace by covering all the cords, except
the ecru silk one, with close Buttonhole
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. ecru silk, and Overcast and straight pieces of cheese cloth with the same woik the Wheels between the wedges in the same also
made with circle silk
;
tlie
edges of the half
material.
— —
Guipure Richelieu. See Richelieu Guipure. Gunny, or Gunnies; A coarse description of sacking, made from the fibi'es of two plants of the genus Gorchorus, a native of India. The fibre is employed to make cord-
Fio. 475.
The and also a kind of coarse linen, called Tat, manufacture of Gunny or Bagging Cloth is one of the occupations
the lower orders in Bengal, and, owing to its great strength
of
Bombay, and Madras and cheapness, it is in extensive demand in Iir Europe, China, Avistralia, and America ;
all countries.
this
cloth is
employed in the packing of their several products. Rice, spices, and cotton are packed in it. Gusset. A square piece 01 material let into the upper
—
openings above the wristbands of a shirt, to prevent the tearing of the seam. Gussets should be cut the straight way of the material, and a selvedge procured for one side, Half gussets are sometimes employed for the if possible. They should shoulders of nightshirts, towards the neck
GUIPURE RENAISSANCE.
age,
principal
247
end of a sleeve, by which it is connected witli the body of the garment under the arm, for the pui-pose of giving move play to the latter. Small ones are also inserted at the
bo folded over on the bias, one comer laid against that opposite two sides should be sewn into the body of the garment under the arm, and the other two sides into the ;
imderneath the arm. Thus, when the shii-t or chemise is laid flat on the table, irith the sleeves spread out horizontally, the gussgt presents a triangular form in It should bo sewn into the sleeve before its half section. sleeve
it is
attached to the body.
Gusset.— See Knitting.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
248
Gutta Fercha. whence was
— So called from Talo Percha,
tlie
island
gum, wliicli is produced by a forest tree the Isonandra Gutta which grows in the great woods of the Malayan Peninsula, Borneo, and other islands first
obtained
tlie
—
—
of the Indian Archipelago.
The material produced
is
sent
kind of cloth
made
is
Thei-e is likewise a
of horse-hair.
cloth made of horse-hair which is dyed, the white receiving permanent colotii's crimson, claret, green, and scarlet the warp of the cloth being either of woi-sted or cotton, and used in Upholstery, especially for steam ships, railway
—
largely manufactured at Sheffield
to this coimtiy in large blocks of 31b. or 41b. in weight,
carriages, &c.
and
Worcester, and is partially hand-made in a loom, owing to there being no continuous thread of hair to render
then goes through a process of purification, and
it
is
cut into long strips for purposes of wear or otherwise,
such as in the making of boots and shoes.
It is a rival
demanding elasSee Indiaruebee.
to indiarubber in its uses for all articles
be rendered waterproof.
ticity or to
Gyuip-head. braid,
made
—A
description
of
narrow open-worked
as a binding or fini.sh for the pui-poses of
uiDholsteiy work.
is ajjplied
It
to chairs, sofas, &c.,
and
nailed on to conceal the tumings-in of the cloth or velvet,
The
cloth is likewise
Haberdashery. — In the Danish, Tuischer, and in German, Tauschei; means a seller of trifling wares, such as Tapes, Buttons, Needles, Ribbons, Hooks and Eyes, &c., to which articles all employed in Needlework the term Haberdashery applies in English. The fraternity in ancient times was called " Hurrers," and also " Milliners." They were incorporated by Letters Patent in the reign •
—
—
Henry
YI., 1407,
by the
style of the
" Fraternity of
Catherine the Virgin, of the Haberdashers of the City of London." Their modem and present denomination is " The Master and four Wardens of the Fraternity of the St.
Art, or Mystery, of Haberdashers, in the City of Lond(.>n." walking haberdashery Of feathers, lace, and fur.
—The usually
of
fine kind of cotton cloth, threads running the long way, and presenting the appearance of fine cords. It is 38 inches in width, and is
employed for infants'
Hairpin Crochet.
Bridal of Triermain.
width,
and suitable for
women's wear.
—
Hainaalt. In Binche, a town of Hainault, Brussels Lace was made during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries also a heavy patterned Dutch Lace. See Binche Lace. Woven fabrics of Hair-cloth, or Hair-seating. various descriptions made from the hair of animals. That of the camel, being long and as fine as silk, forms a beautiful matei-ial for the weaving of dress and mantle the red, stuffs, of which there are three kinds employed white, and grey; that of the Angora goat, from which a light and expensive cloth is made of the description of plush called angola cloth, which, from its repelling heat, is employed for paletots, overcoats, &c. and that from the Cashmere goat, from which is manufactured fine and costly shawls, and of which material there are three ;
—
—
;
kinds, the Rizargee being of the finest texture.
rough, coarse description of hair cloth
is
r.^bes
and
frocks.
See MuSLIN.
— See Crochet, page 107.
—Also
called Point Tresse. In the time was much the custom of embroiderers to work miniatures, and to form the hair with the real hair of the person represented. To this fashion we owe several likenesses of that monarch containing portions of his hair, I. it
as ladies loyal to the Royalist cause generally obtained
from the King hair for Tresse It
is
is
of
much
this purpose
;
but the true Point
older date than this kind of Embroidery.
mentioned in old writings that the Countess
of
Lennox worked it during her captivity in the Tower and presented it to Queen Elizabeth, and thei'e are notices of it in the Middle Ages. The true Point Tresse resembles extremely fine Knitting, in which the human hair twisted round fine silver thread or plain linen thread is knitted and so worked in. The peculiarity of the work is, that it will not burn, but only smoulders, when subject to the action of The Indians plait or weave the tail hair of elephants fire.
manner, and the Americans are accustomed to up hair into detached flowers, leaves, and sprays. The only remnant remaining in England of this Hair Work consists in the almost obsolete brooches formed with bows of plaited or knitted hair, the true Point Tresse being no longer made. plait
cloths are of a thin, light make,
seven quarters in
in Paris.
—A very
in a similar
A
Habit Cloths. —These
and
the
of Charles
H.
made
Hair-cord Muslin.
Hair Work.
colours.
is
machinery available. The hair is chiefly procured from Russia and South America for our home manufacture.
and sewn over the seams I'ound cushions. It varies in width, and may be had in every colour and of mixed
of
It
A
very woven in bands,
and for gloves used for the purpose of friction, and by the monastic orders for shirts, worn as an act of penance. This
Half Hitch.
—A
to denote the loop
tenn used by Pillow Lace makers given to tighten the thread after
it
has been woiind upon the Bobbins. To make After the thread has been wound upon it, hold the Bobbin in the left hand, with the palm upwards, take the end of the thread in the right hand, and pull it tight; place the middle finger of the left hand upon it, and give a turn of the wrist, to bring the thread round that finger; then put the loop over the head of the bobbin with the middle :
finger, gently pulling
the thread
all
the time with the
This loop, sometimes called rolling as well as Half Hitch, keeps the thread from coming off the Bobbin, and the amount of thread left free can be lengthened by tightening this loop, or shortened by lifting up the loop
right hand.
with the needle pin and winding the bobbin up. Half Stitch. Also called Lace and Shadow Stitch, and used in Pillow Lace making to form the shadow of a pattern, to fill in the inside of curves, flowers, and circles, and to make lighter leaves and parts of a design than
—
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. those formed with Cloth or
Whole
Stitch.
The
principle of
Commence
at the
tail,
249
and hang on seven pairs of Bobbins
the stitch
is, that only one Bobbin works across the leaf each time. The Bobbins are treated as pairs, but as the working pair is continually changing, one thread I'uns straight across, and the others slant crosswise down the
and two GiMPS, work in Cloth Stitch to the place where the pattern narrows, then cross the Gimps underneath the Bobbins, and continue the upper part of the body. When the head is reached, cut off two pairs of Bobbins, and tie up
Half Stitch, when worked as a Braid, is illustrated and described in Braid Work. To work the leaf shown in Fig. 476 Stick a pin at the tip of the leaf, and hang on eleven pairs of Bobbins, run the pin down to its head, and work a row of Cloth Stitch to bind all the threads together. The three working pairs having been twisted three times, give the rest of the Bobbins a twist to the left, except the two pairs immediately inside the pins upon each side of the leaf. Those two pairs are never twisted, but a Whole or Cloth Stitch ,is made as the working Bobbins pass them at the beginning and end of each row. The effect of this is to form the streak upon each side of the leaf in Fig. 476, which gives the appearance of a Gimp. Second row make the Cloth Stitch, put the pair of Bobbins that made it on one side, and give the Working Bobbins a twist to the left; bring forward the next pair,
and cut off the Gimps. Work Stem round the head, and sew and tie up to finish. Make a Rope Sewing to where the right-hand wing begins, and hang on another pair of
work.
:
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Fig. 470.
which
is
Leaf
i.\
II.vlf
I'lght,
twist both pairs once to the left
bring the next pair forward, and put the middle left-hand Bobbin over the middle right hand, and twist both pairs once; continue to bring forward a pair of Bobbins, put the centre ones over each other, and twist both pairs once, until the end pair is again reached make a Cloth Stitch without twisting, then twist thrice and work a Plain ;
Edge.
Return
in the
same manner, not forgetting the
twist after the Cloth Stitch.
When
within a few rows of the end, tie up and cut off a pair of Bobbins, work another row, tie up and cut off another pair, and finish the leaf by plaiting the rest for the stem.
This stitch does not require but a firm pull at the Hanging Bobbins is given from time to time to keep it straight, as, unless the threads are kept even, the lace will be thick in some places and open in others. The threads must not be broken, as knots cannot be made while the stitch is in progress, except at the edge in the Cloth Stitcli. To work Fig. 477: Work the body and head first. to be
drawn together
tightly,
Work Stem
along the upper part of the wing,
and for the Pearl Edge twist twice before the last stitch and after the first in the return row. Continue Stem round the circle at the end of the wing, changing to Plain Edge where it turns inside; make a Sewing where it joins, and tie and cut off all but two pairs make a stitch with these, twist twice, and stick a pin between them in the nearest single hole. Fill the circle with Plaitings. Return to the body of the Butterfly, and to work the Half Stitch hang on five pairs of Bobbins and two Gimps. Sew each outside pair to the body, and increase the width of the lace by hanging on a pair of Bobbins at the slanting ;
side for six rows.
Tig. 477.
Sr tlh.
already twisted, put the middle left-hand Bobbin
over the middle
Bobbins.
lower wing
is
When
the point of junction with the
EuiTERFLT IN Half Stitch asd Plaitixcs.
passed,
Left Pearl.
commence the Pearl Edge, which
When
the Half Stitch is nearly Bobbins in each of the two rows before the last one, and three pairs in the last row join one side to the circle by Sewing where they touch when working the Half Stitch. Make a final Sewing at the end, and tie and cut off the Bobbins. For the lower wing, commence at the body, hang on six pairs of Bobbins, and work the band in Cloth Stitch round the wing begin with making a Plain Edge, and turn to Pearl Edge below the tail. From the place where the wings join, sew each row to the upper wing, not working the Edge on that side. The left side of the Butterfly is worked similar to the right Fill the lower side, and the Plaitings are filled in last. wings with Long Plaitings, with six pairs of Bobbins; the upper with Cucumber Plaitings; and to finish the Butterfly, make the antenna; with five pairs of Bobbins in will be
finished, cut off a pair of
;
;
Cloth Stitch, commencing at the head.
Hamburg
Point.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A
lace
made
at
Hamburg by
Protestant French refugees, after the revocation of the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
250
The lace is now obsolete, but was a Drawn Work, like tbat described in Dresden
Edict of Nantes. description of
—
Hangings. Tapestry, or such-like woollen fabrics, used as ornamental or useful drapery of the household. Kg
Point.
Hamburg Wool. —Tbis
one of tbe varieties of German wool prepared for tlie purposes of embroidery, is
composed of from four to twelve strands of tbe and brilliant in colour, and is suitable for working on coarse canvas. An imitation is made, of
and
is
yarn.
It is glossy
inferior quality, called
Hamburg
"Worsted.
—
Hammered-up
Gold. Gold liammered out into very Tbe gold plates tliin plates, and sewn upon Embroidery. were eitber formed into plain beraldic shields and other devices, or a pattern raised in relief
decorated in this manner
(which
The work Batuz Woek
upon them.
is genei'ally
called
see).
—
Hamstei' (Cricetus Vulgaris]. A native of Germany, from wbence upwards of 100,000 skins are annually colThe fur being poor, coarse, and rough, is exlected. clusively employed for cloak linings, more especially by tbe Greeks. The back is of a reddish brown, and the rest black, with a few light spots. The skin measures 5 inches by 12 inches.
HandltercMefs.—A handkerchief was linen formerly employed by women
the square of
fine
to cover the
also used in the hand. The not met with earlier than in the fifteenth century, when, in the " Wardrobe Accounts Edward lY.," we find "V. dozen handcouverof chieffes " are named as having been made and washed by one Alice Shapster, to whom a payment had been made. Modern handkerchiefs are to be had of different dimensions, those for women being smaller than those for men. They are produced in silk, both Chinese and Indian, as well as English of cambric, cotton, and ni\islin; some designed for the jjocket, and others for the neck. Some of the Indian silk ones are in self colours, others have patterns upon them, and are
head, and
term
more recently
Handkerchief
is
;
necessarily in two colours
Handkerchiefs
;
these are
known
see).
stitched or ril^bon borders, and
embroidered
some are anore or
less
others have black or coloured borders in
;
various designs.
export trade.
Trimmings
came
fashion in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
first into
of lace ap]3lied to Handkerchiefs
tnie-love knots.
—Friar Bacon's Frophesie,
a.d. 1C04.
reeled,
;
the material
make a pound of twenty
indicated by the
is
Water
weight.
hanks
to the pound,
number of hanks which means a coarse yarn
twist
and
used for the warp, or Mule twist is used for the weft, or cross threads. In some places the words hank and skein have different meanings the former including two or more skeins, and consisting of two or is
the longitudinal threads, of the cloth.
—
more threads twisted or
Hank, Worsted. — A which
hose,
is
d<mc
tied together.
description of yarn for knitting
up
in Mb.
various
colours
— plain,
and sold
by
may be had
in
skeins,
the single, dozen, or half-dozen pounds.
It
white,
speckled, grey,
scarlet,
—The
former kind
that in
Spanish brown, black, &c.
Hard and Soft Silk. which the natural gum is been removed by scouring.
left,
is
the latter in which
it
has
—
It
Harden. This cloth is otherwise known as Hurdcn. is made from Tow (which see), or of the coarsest de-
scription of flax or hemp. sheets,
and
towels, were
Under garments, tablecloths, made of Harden in the olden
In the will of Johan Wielif, dated 1562, ten pairs Harden sheets are named, valued at 20s. nine tablecloths of Hai'den at lOs. and hand towels made of the same cloth. Six years later, Walter Sti'ykland made a bequest of 40 yards of Harden cloth, the whole piece being valued at 13s. 4d. (See Flax and Hemp.)
times. of
;
;
Hare-skin Fur. tion of Fur,
but
—This
is
is
an
inferior
thick and soft.
animal in the winter, when the coat close resemblance to sealskin, It
is
in
much
when
is
and cheap descripfrom the
If taken
thick,
it
well dyed
will bear a
and dressed.
request.
Harrateen.—A kind
of cloth
made
of
combing wool.
—
A modern Embroidery Buibi'oidery. formed of Buttonhole Stitcli, worked with coloured silks Haveuese
flower-shaped designs, or the geometrical designs used Crewel Work; and where the design would be too
in
heavy if entirely covered over with Buttonhole, the open darning stitches used in Crewel work backgrounds (see page 99) are inserted into the centres to lighten the effect. To work Trace out a design upon oatmeal cloth or crash,
Have you not sometimes seen a handkerchief Spotted with strawberries in your wife's hand
is
or crewels upon crash, cloth, or any thick material. The patterns used for this work are the conventional
Handkerchiefs were wrought
With names and
or head of
When
sale.
yarn
and
designs, so prepared to suit the native taste, for the Indian
denotes a certain measure of yarn,
silk, thread, or cotton, prepared for not required for weaving in a factory, tbe and wound off in lengths of 840 yards each, twisted together and secured. For worsted the hanks are longer than for cotton. However fine the yarn maybe the same length is given and the quality or fineness of coil, skein,
Bales of coloured cotton Handkerchiefs
are manufactured in this country in Oriental colours
—Dryden.
Hank. —This term
Bandana
as
Cambric, mu.slin, cotton and gingham handkerchiefs are to be had, with hem(which
purple hangings clothe the palace walls.
?
—Othello.
:
Hangers.
— This term, with that of Passive Bobbins,
is
used by Pillow lacemakers to distinguish those Bobbins that lie straight down the cushion, from tbe Worker Bobbins, that pass backwards and forwards, from side to side,
and
interlace the Hangers.
and, should
it
Buttonhole.
contain large leaves, cover them entirely with Graduate the length of the Buttonhole
from the stem to the point of the leaf, and fill in one side of the leaf with a row of Buttonholes, turning the raised edge to the centre of the leaf to form the middle vein.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Work
the stems in
;
parts of the design, and leaves too small to require a centre vein, with rows of Buttonhole, and turn the edge of the Buttonhole to the interior of the design.
251
Hemmer. —The name of an attachment " employed to Hemming by means of its use
Oeewel
Stitch, work the flowers in single distinct petals fill each petal with Buttonholes. and turn the edge to the centre of flower. Cover detached all
"
execute the stitch called in a sewing machine.
Hemming. — This
is a term used in plain sewing, and and method of its application, is to produce a firm, neat border to any article of clothing, upholstery, or of household use, instead of leaving a raw edge, which would ravel out. To make a Hemming, turn in the raw
the
stitcli,
edge of the stuff with a double fold-over, insert the needle, and secure the thread under the edge of the fold, and, directing the needle in a slanting position leftwards, take up a couple or three strands of the stuff of single portion, below the fold, bringing the needle through the edge of
Havene.se Embkoideht.
Fig. 478.
To work a geometrical
design, as
shown in Fig. 478
shades of gold are required for this pattern. Work the sprays and thick parts with lines of Buttonhole
Two all
and turn the edge to the
in the darkest shade,
Make
the
Cones
in
inside.
the lightest shade, with an open
Lattice Stitch, and
fill in with this stitch the other open parts of the design; work the seed vessels in the corner with Satin Stitch.
—
This is a comprehensive term, under Head-dress. which a very large number of coverings and adornments for the head may be classified; but for those Head-dresses which belong to women's costumes of the present day, and to the Art of Needlework, including Hats and Bonnets, i^tc, see MiLLINEKY.
Make a continuous succession of fine regular stitches thus, resembling teeth, which will confine the fold closely to the rest of the material (Fig. 479). the fold likewise.
All the
Was hommecl
skii-t
about
with golden fringe.
Spsnscr.
sometimes used instead of Footing, upon the side of lace sewn to the dress from the edge that is left free. Headings are either made of Braids worked sej^arate from the pattern, and attached to it, or they are worked as
There are various other styles of hemming besides the ordinary hem described above, such as Counter Hemming, German Hemming, and Mantua Makers' Hemming. The latter is employed where the ridge formed will be of no consequ.ence, while speed in finisliing is an object. Lay two pieces of stuff together, the raw edge of the nearest
part of the design.
to
Heading.
—A term
to distinguish the edge of the lace that is
below that of the other piece. Turn the and then fold both together over as in ordinary Hemming, and Fell through the double stuff, so as to leave a projecting hem, foruiing a ridge, instead of a flat one, such as would be suitable for
you a
little
Sante).—Tlna is a new material, designed for underclothing, manufacturered at Zofingen, Switzerland. It is composed of pure silk and pure wool, which are woven into ridges, and a fabric is thus produced that resembles white crape. Though close
iipper edge over the lower,
and possesses great elasticity. It is likewise light, yet exceedingly warm, and, being undyed, bears washing very well, and without shrinking.
skirts, it
Health Crape
(Cn-pe
de
in texture, it is porous,
Its width
is
about 24 inches.
Heathei' Wool.
—This
name does not denote any
special kind of wool or yarn,
but has reference only to
a border.
In the seams
of
sleeves,
pockets, bags,
may be suitably used. German Hemming is a substitute
for
Turn down the raw edges of both pieces united once, and lay them one below the
top-sewing.
of cloth to be othei-, so
of the upper one, but
lie
just beneath
it.
Then
and Fell the lower one to the cloth against which
Heather in yarn of any description. There is much German wool manufactured for the knitting of stockings, each strand of which is parti-coloured.
laid, like
— See
Stocking Knitting.
that
the smooth top of the lower should not touch the edge
the mixed and speckled colour which produces a hue like
Heel.
or
hemming
Hem it is
upside down.
The Counter Hem, although adopted in the teaching young children, is not a style to be recommended, while it cannot be omitted in the list. The working of of very
K K
2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
252
—
this method is as follows Mark one side of the material A, the other side B; turn one edge down on side A, turn the opposite edge down on side B, lay the fold B under the fold A, Hem the edge A, then turn the work over and Hem the side B, and by this means never have a wrong or a right side. If the edge A were neatly Back Stitched, instead of Hemmed, there could be no objection to the Counter Hem. The needle should be inserted in a sloping direction not straight upwards. Hemp. This plant is supi^osed to have been originally a native of Persia. The inner fibrous bai'k is detached from the wood by immersion in pools of water, and made
Hercules Braid. A employed for trimmings. an inch to about 4 inches.
into coarse cloths, cordage,
and canvas. It is naturalised The Europe and in England, as well as elsewhere. hemp grown in this country supplies material for Towelsuch as Huckaback, Buckram, Canvas, and cordage. ling Russian and Polish Hemp is converted into sails and cordage, and the Manilla into ropes. The hemp plant grows to a height of about 3 feet to 4 feet, the stems branching with alternate leaves on long foot stalks, the flowers growing in clusters. Hemp is of the Nettle tribe. Herodotus writes of it thus " Hemp grows in the country of the Scythians, which, except in the thickness and
of the needle to the left hand,
in
sti-ands,
:
—
—
—
:
height of the stalk, very
much
qualities mentioned, however, the
resembles Flax;
Hemp
is
The Thracians make clothing of it very could any person, without being very
much like
in the superior.
Linen; nor
well acquainted
with the substance, say whether this clothing be made of
Hemp
or Flax."
—
Hem-Stitcli. A term in needlework designating the mode of producing a delicate kind of open-work, by drawing together certain threads in the material of the stuff, to be sewn in small successive clusters. Draw out a few parallel threads in the cloth whether linen, cambric, or muslin at the head of a hem, and fasten up the upper and last cross-thread to the folded hem above it, so as to prevent thus leaving small open spaces its ravelling downwards between each of the clusters of strands.
—
;
Sera
Stitch,
Henrietta
— Embeoideey Stitches. —A material employed for moui-ning,
Fancy.
Cloth..
See
the warp composed of spun
silk, and the weft of fine Saxony wool. It is stouter than Parramatta in the warp, measures 40 inches in width, and varies in price. Henriquez Lace. Used in Ancient Needle Lace and in Modern Point. The finest thread is required to work To work Take a twisted thread across a this stitch. space from one finished piece of work to another, and a single one back very near to it. Twist a thread twice round the second line, and Daen a spot on both; twist again on the single thread five or six times, and repeat the spot. Do this to the end of line.* Then take the two single threads across at a small distance from the others, and keep the two apart by working a twisted stitch between. Repeat the twisted threads and Darned spots as before, and make the spots fall underneath the others. Continue from * until the space is filled. Then work the two single lines in exactly the opposite direction, and make them go \inder and over in retiu-ning. The Darned spots must be worked in the spaces between where the
—
:
four lines meet.
thick,
corded,
It varies in
worsted braid, width from half
Herringbone Stitch. —A
stitch used in plain sewing, Embroidery, being a kind of Cross Stitch,worked backwards, from left to right. It is chiefly used in the making of seams in flaimel, when, a running having been made, the two raw edges are turned back the one from the other, and the two either separately Herringboned, or else
and also
in
the stitches are taken across the running into the material
beyond the raw edges, exactly parallel with them, and so confining the loose strands of the flannel. Direct the point
and take up two
vertical
leaving four strands between the top row
of
and the lower one; then re- insert the needle at the fourth thread from the spot where it entei'ed the previous time on that row, so working backwards, from left to right, that the threads successively drawn through, above, and below, may cross each other diagonally, and form a series, resembling the letter X, in regular order. The material should be held across the first two fingers of the left hand. The stitch is employed in embroidery, and with coloured silk, cotton, or wool. stitches
Herringbone Stitches.
Fancy.
Stitch,
— See
Embeoideey
Herringbone Twill. —A name by which dress material
is
known.
Rampoor Chudda
It is
all-wool
one of the
textiles,
a soft slight
vai'ieties in
woven
to
the
resemble
Herringbone Masonry, and measuring 42 inches in width. Hessians. A strong coarse cloth, made of a mixture of Hemp and Jute, and is employed for the packing
—
of bales.
Hibernian Embroidery.
—An Embroidery with Satin
and Buttonhole Stitches upon tions,
with coloured silks or
foundaused for
velvet, silk, or net filoselles.
It
is
banner screens, cushions, and dress trimmings, and is but distinguishable from Satin Embroidery. To work Trace the design upon the material, and select a flower Pill in the stems of the flowers Satin Stitch pattern. with Satin Stitch, and work the leaves in Satin Stitch,
little
:
shading them with vai'ious colours. Work small flowers, such as Forget-me-nots, with Satin Stitch petals, and Work larger finish them with Feench Knot centres. flowers in Buttonhole laid over a padded surface, and fill in their centres with beads, or woi-k
Stitch.
Form
them in Raised Satin number of Point
fern sprays with a
Lance Stitches, and wheat and
barley with irregular
Satin Stitches worked over a padded foundation.
—
Hodden Grey. The word Hodden is evidently derived from Hoiden, or rustic and clownish, and thus descriptive of a material worn by the peasantry. Hodden grey is a cloth peculiar to Scotland, and made from the natural undyed fleece. A black lamb is usually kept for the manufacture of this cloth in farming districts, as its wool
is
very suitable.
Holbein Stitch.
— Also
known
as Italian Stitch,
and
used in Holbein Embroidery to cover the outline patterns forming that work. The beauty of the stitch entirely depends upon its exact regularity. The idea of the stitch is that both sides are alike, therefore every stitch must bo
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. and accord in length complement. To work Follow the exact outlines Embroidery with single Runnings, worked with great precision, and return back along the same line to complete it ujaon both sides, thus To work a straight line, thread a coai-se wool needle, and Run the line with a series of stitches exactly the same upon both sides this produces upon the right side of the work a series of short stitches, with gaps of the same length between them return along the line with another Running, so that these gaps are filled in, and a straight line upon both sides of the stuff is made. To make a Vandyke line Make with a Satin Stitch every left-hand line of the Vandyke upon the right side of the work the under side will have the right-hand lines In returnof the Vandyke formed with the under thread.
253
either perfectly upright or horizontal,
the pointed square look to each stitch, as that
with
characteristic of this work.
its
:
of the
Hole Stitch.— A stitch used form holes or small round spots
;
in Pillow
is
the
Lace making
to
in the centre of the thick
Numerous designs can be made by
parts of a pattern.
the diiferent arrangements of these holes, of which one
is
;
;
:
;
;
make all the right-hand lines Vandyke with a Satin Stitch upon the right side
ing along the pattern,
of
the
of
the material; the under side will thus be completed with
Vandyke
the under thread forming the left-hand
To work a Battlemented
line
On
:
lines.
the right side work in
Satin Stitch all the upright lines form on the under side with the under thread all the horizontal lines. Return ;
and
finish the pattern
on the right
side,
by making
all
the horizontal lines
the under threads of which will foim the
upright lines of the Battlement upon the wrong side of the material.
centre pin, and
—
worked so that it
it fills its
to
scale,
and each
which
stitch
exact place, and the one next
ai-ranged so as to be capable of meeting
it.
;
Bobbins while the stitch
Holbein Work. This is a modern revival of work executed in the time of Holbein, and frequently to be seen in his paintings. It consists of an outline Embroidery, executed with great care and exactitude, so that the right and wi-ong side of the work are alike. The designs are carefully drawn
Flemish Stitch; a single hole is described in Braids. But whatever the pattern, the hole is always made in the same way, although the number of the Bobbins used to make it can be increased or decreased. To work: Hang on twelve pairs of Bobbins, and work across from left to right in Whole or Cloth Stitch six times put up the pins each side into their pricked holes, then divide the Bobbins into two equal numbers, and put a pin in the centre. Take up the left-hand Bobbin, and woi'k Cloth Stitch with six pairs ujj to the centre pin work back to the left with the same six pairs, without twisting or putting up a pin at the edge, twist, and put up a pin, and leave the Bobbins hanging. Take up the righthand Bobbins, and work with them to the centre pin in Cloth Stitch, and return with them without twist or pin to the right hand put \\^ a pin, and work right across the whole twelve Bobbins to the left hand, and enclose the centre, pin, which makes the hole. Keep the Hanging called
The work,
durable, and quickly done, is chiefly executed and linen materials, and used to ornament tablecloths, towels, and other washing articles, and is then worked with ingrain silks and cottons but it can also be is
in flax
:
them away too
is
in progress
when dividing much from the
drawn towards the
the Bobbins do not draw centre, or a stretchy, wide
hole will be the result.
Holland. the
Low
—A
kind of linen originally imported from its name), but now British
Countries (whence
made, and chiefly in Scotland. It is unbleached, and is made in two descriptions the glazed and unglazed. The former is employed for carriage or chair covers and trunk linings the latter for articles of dress men's blouses, women's and children's dresses, and many other pui-poses. Hollands may be had from 30 inches to 36 inches in width, including the rough, dressed, and undressed descriptions,
—
—
;
brown lawns, and Drills for boys' suits. A description of is employed for window roller blinds, made in They are highly glazed and cotton as well as linen. sized, so as to be less influenced by dust, and are made in white, l:>lue, buff, green, and in stripes of different colours. The widths begin at 28 inches, and increase by 2 inches up to 100. Holland
Fig. 480.
used upon cloth or
Border silk
ix
Holbein Work.
—
foundations, and worked with
and fine crewels it then makes tea cosies, mats and cushions. To work as shown in Fig. 480 (a design intended for a border to a tablecloth, and considerably reduced from its right size), upon coarse
filoselles
;
ecru coloured linen, with crimson ingrain silk Trace the pattern on to the linen with tracing cloth and :
blue
tracing
paper.
Holbein Stitch.
Work the short stitches Work the Battlemented lines
First all the upright lines,
and then
retuj-n
with thus
:
back and
form the horizontal. Run the long lines, and fill in the gaps by returning. Work all the squares by Rmmings, returning back until they are filled. Work the single stitches with a double Satin Stitch.
Be
careful to give
Hollie Point. A needle lace much worked in the Middle Ages. The word is a corruption of Holy Point, and was used to denote Church Laces, whether formed of Drawn or Cut Work, or with Darned Netting or Needle Point when the pattern of the lace was a Scriptural subject or contained sacred emblems. Italy, Spain, Flandei-s, and England, all produced Hollie Points, the designs of which were either figures illustrating the fall of Adam and Eve, and other Old Testament events, or the Tree of Knowledge, the Holy Dove, and the Anniuiciation Lily, with or its flower pot. It was not until the beginning the seventeenth century that Hollie Point was used for anything else but church pui-poses, and the fashion of wearing it was first adopted by the Puritans in the
without of
reign of
James
I.
The designs shown
in Figs. 481
and
4:82
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
254
and are executed in Needle Point,
are of great antiquity,
and have been used
to adorn a child during its christening,
the round pattern to fonn the centre of the baby's cap, and the long, to ornament the " bearing" cloth or long garment
was used when carrying
of fine linen that in ancient days
the child to the font, and which was always handsomely
The
decorated with lace. Hollie Point
stitch for this description of
2,
2,
miss
Hollie Stitch; it is a ButtonTo work the Border shown in
described in
is
work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, work 17, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 22, miss 2, work 20, miss 2, work 29, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss Tenth row— work 14, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, 2, work 14. miss
hole with an extra twist. Fig. 481 Take a piece of green linen or green leather cloth, and tack it on something stiff, then lay upon it three threads the length of the piece of insertion fasten them :
;
firmly from the underneath, leave the three threads on the gi-een sui'face, then thread a needle with fine thread and bring it up from underneath with a very small stitch, so as to hold the three threads firmly together. Begin at the left
—
hand
corner. First row work 78 Hollie Stitches with space enough between each for two stitches to come on the
next row under take the thread back to the left hand, and in every row take up this thread with the lower part of the stitch of the row above. Second row work 4 and miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6 and miss 2 altei'nately to the end of ;
—
the row
take the thread back to the left hand.
;
Third
Circle in Hollie Poi:;t.
Fig. \%2.
wori-k
6,
miss
miss ...ss
2,
work
work
2,
miss
2,
woi'k
1,
miss
work
1,
miss
2,
work
work
4,
16,
miss
1,
2,
work
2,
10,
miss
10, 2,
work 18, miss liss 2, work 21, miss 2, work 30, miss 2, work 6, miss work 6, miss 2, work 16. Eleventh row work 16, iiiss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 3, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 12, miss worli <"ork 4, miss
2,
work
miss
8,
2,
miss
—
,
I'iG. 4S1.
2,
Edgixo is IIollie Toixt.
—work 2 and miss 2 to the end of the row. Fourth —miss 2 and work 6 alternately to the end of the row. miss and work 2 alternately to the Fifth row —work row row
4,
2,
the four worked at the beginning must not be repeated. Sixth row- work 6 and miss 2 alternately Seventh row work 8, miss 2, to the end of the row.
end of the row
;
—
work 2,
miss
work 2,
1,
1,
22,
miss
work
2,
21,
miss
work
miss
2,
2,
2,
work
2,
work miss
2,
miss
work
2,
work
1,
miss
miss
2,
work
work miss
1,
2,
miss
work
—
miss
2,
work
2,
work
2,
miss
14,
miss
2,
work
2,
work
1, 1, 2, 2,
work
miss
1,
miss
2,
1,
miss
2,
2,
2,
work
2,
work
12,
work
miss
miss
2, 2,
miss
work 1,
1,
miss
work 2,
2,
30,
miss
work
miss 2,
miss 2,
2,
work
miss 2,
2^
work
2,
work
work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 10. Eighth row work 10, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, woi'k 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 15, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, woi'k 10, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 20, miss 2, work 16, miss 2, work 28, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 12. Ninth I'ow work 12, miss 2, work 2, 2,
miss
(E-N-
2,
—
—
2,
work
miss
work
2,
4,
10,
2,
work
8,
10,
miss
2,
2,
work
12,
miss
work miss
miss
2,
work miss
work
miss
4,
1,
miss
2,
work
2,
work
2, 1,
miss
work 1,
2,
16,
miss
2,
work
1,
work 2, miss Twelfth row work 18, miss 2, 2, work 2, miss 2, work 18. work 6, miss 2, work 16, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 16, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 8, miss miss
2,
work
14,
miss
2,
work
2,
miss
2,
—
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. 2,
work
4,
miss
2,
work
14,
miss
2,
work
10,
miss
work
2,
work
6,
miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 6, niiss 2, work 20. Thirteenth row work 20, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 22, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work C, mirjs 2, work 4, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work C, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, miss
2,
work
8,
miss
2,
work
miss
10,
2,
—
7,
work 2, miss 2, work 22. Fourteenth row work 22, mis.i 2, work 6, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, woi-k 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 12, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 12, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2fW0rk 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 5, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 24. Fifteenth row work 20, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 33, miss 2, work 12, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 5, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 12, miss 2, work 11, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 22. Sixteenth row work 23, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work i, miss 2, work 11, miss 2, work 1(3, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 18, miss 2, work 7, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 16, miss 2, work 24. Seventeenth row work 20, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 27, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 16, miss 2, Work 10, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 19, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work l,miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 18, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 22. Eighteenth row work 18, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 38, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 16, miss 2, work 10, miss 4, work 20, miss 2, work 7, miss 2, work 1 miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, v/ork 7, miss 2, work 1.5, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 20. Nineteenth row work 16, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 34, miss 4, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 4, work 2, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, woi'k 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 22, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, woi-k 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 11, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 18. Twentieth row work 14, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, worli 30, miss 2, work 4,, .miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 30, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 16. Twenty -first row work 12, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2,
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
255
miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 28, miss 2, work 4, miss 3, work 7, miss 3, work 4, miss 2, work 4, miss 2,
work
14, miss 2, work 28, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 9, miss 2, work 7, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, woi-k 2, miss 2, work 2, mis3 2, work 2, miss 2,
—
miss 2, work 14. Tn-enty-second row work 10, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work G, miss 2, work 26, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 11, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 3, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, woik 10, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 24, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 7, miss 2, work 5, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 12. Twenty-third row work 8, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 24, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 11, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 9, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 24, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, work 4, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2 work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 10. Twenty-fourth row work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 21, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 11, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 10, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 26, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 10, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 8. Twenty-fifth i-ow^work 4, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 18, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 7, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 12, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 10, miss 2, work 1, miss 1, work 1, miss 1, work 26, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 2 to the end of the line. Twenty-sisth row ^work 2, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 4, miss 2, work 20, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 26, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 1, miss 2, work 8, miss 2, work 6, to the end of the line. Twenty-seventh row work 2, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 6, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 3, miss 2, work 2, miss 2, work 3, miss 4, work 25, miss 2, work 14, miss 2, work 48, miss 2, and work 2 to the end of the line. Twenty-eighth row work 6 and miss 2 the whole row. Twenty-ninth row— work 2 and miss 2 to the end of the line. Thirtieth row ^work 6 and miss 2 to the end of the line. Thirtywork 2 and miss 2 the whole line. Thirtyfirst row second row miss 2 and work 6 the whole line. Thirtythird row miss 2 and work 1 the whole line. The circle shown in Fig. 4S2, and given in an enlarged scale in Fig. 483, is worked in the same manner as the edging with regard to the formation of the stitches, and as they can be counted from the illustration, it is needless
work miss
2,
2,
—
—
—
—
— —
—
— —
to
enumerate every Hne. Work the centre round of the patfirst, and commence with thirty-sis Hollie Stitches,
tern
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
256
whicli increase in every line until the centre of the circle is reached, and then decrease the stitches in the same
After the centre is finished, work a row of open HoUie Stitches quite round it, and increase to widen this circle by working two stitches into one in the centre of every thick point. The line of thread is put round every Should there not be sufficient increase by line as before. working two stitches into one at every thick part, also increase at every open space in the same manner; but as this depends upon the thickness of the Honiton thread used, it can only be regulated by the worker. proportion.
Hollie Stitch. Point
is
follows
:
—The
Stitch
used in making Hollie
a description of Buttonhole, and is worked as Fasten a thread across from right to left of the
work, and place the needle in and draw up as if commencing a Buttonhole put the left-hand thumb firmly on the thread, and twist it round, then thread, pass the ;
needle into the loop on the right of the thumb, and draw Commence each line of stitches from tlie left-hand up. side of the lace and work to the right, then tln-ow the
thread back to the left, and commence another line thei'e, working each stitch into the lower part of the stitch above it iu the first line, and enclosing the thrown thread.
—
Houeycom'biiig. A term used to describe a pattern formed in silk, or any material equally thin. There are two methods of producing the effect of a Honeycomb. That in Plain Sewing is as follows Make Runnings diagonally across the material, the distances between each depending on the proportions of the piece of textile to be covered. Then cross all these Runnings again diagonally from corner to corner, and draw up each thread so as to produce diamond-shaped cells of loose and partially puffed appearance. For the second method, see Embroikeey Stitches. The effect of Honeycombing is produced in certain kinds of canvas, used for Embroidery, and in towelling. :
Honeycoml) Knitting. — See Knitting.
Honeycomb
Stitch.
— See Embeoideey Stitches. — This form of Honiton Lace
Honiton Application.
was at one time popular, and the lace thus made and applied to a hand-made ground is most valuable. At the present date, the Honiton Guipure is more worked than the Honiton Application. This latter is formed by working the lace sprays on the Pillow, and then adding to them a Brussels net ground, formed either with the needle or on the Pillow. The lace so finished is very vakiable, but, from the length of time the ground takes to form, and from the fineness, and consequent dearness of the Antwerp thread used, hand-made net grounds are rarely woi'ked, except for Royal trousseaux. The principal Honiton Application now made consists of working the Honiton Sprays on the Pillow, laying them upon machine-made net, and sewing them down to it in the following manner Cut out upon blue paper the exact size of the lace to be made, whether it is a flounce or only a small piece. Tack down upon this in their right positions the various Honiton spi-ays; lay them right side downwards upon the paper, and secure them just sufficiently to pi'event them curling over, but not tightly. Over them lay the net, cut the wrong way of material. :
The net selected should be of delicate thread, of a cream, and not blue white, slightly stiff, and with holes Pin down this net to the paper withand then sew it to the sprigs. Use Lund's No. 12 needles, and 175 lace thread, and sew down the sprig to the net by passing the needle through every other outer pinhole of the sprigs. Cut away the net from under the sprigs where there are open parts in the lace that have been ornamented with open Fillings, and Overcast round the edges of the net at these places to prevent the net fraying, and turn in and sew firmly down sexagon in shape.
Hollie Stitch.
Fio. 4S4.
out stretching
The stitch, as shown in Pig. 484, is worked wide apart, and forms a line of open work between the thick pattern in the lace, but the thick and the open parts of Hollie Point are worked in the same stitch in the thick these ;
are placed close together; in the open, the space of two or
more
stitches are missed.
Hollow Spots.
Homespun. —A
See Ceochet. coarse
and
rather
loosely
woven
woollen material, employed for men's and women's dresses. The origin of the name is derived from the circumstance that, in former times, women used to spin the wool at home, and send it to country manufacturers to be woven into cloth. It has within the last few years been brought into fashion by some members of the Scottish nobility, who probably procured it from their own tenants for country wear and it has been successfully imitated by the manufacturers, in both fine and coarse qualities. ;
it,
the net at the outer edge of the lace. When the net has been joined to the lace, cut the tacking threads at the back of the blue paper, pull them carefully out, take off the lace, and slightly iron the net side over. the ground, see
To work
Net Ground.
Honiton Crochet.— See Crochet. Honiton Gx'ound.— This
is
consists of filling in with a
used in Honiton Lace, and
number
of Bars, that cross
each other and form diamonds, the groundwork of the lace. To woi-k Rule blue paper into a number of dia:
mond
lines,
\ inch apart.
Tack the sprays of
lace, face
CRAZY
PATCHWORK
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. downwards, to this paper; pin the paper on to the pillow, and woi-k along the lines. Work all the lines first that go in one direction. Hang on to a line four pairs of Bobbins, and work in Stem Stitch with a Pbael Edge down to the end of that line, and for the others going in the same Then work the cross lines in the same manner, direction. but make a Sewing as each line is crossed, by drawing the loop underneath the line to be sewn to, and passing the other through it. When the lace is reached in any
257
worked, are attached to each other with fine Buttonhole Bars, or else joined with stitches. Honiton Application, or the detached sprigs sewn to machine net, is also made, but not so frequently as Honiton Guipure. Nearly all Honiton lace is made of white thread; but when black Honiton ia required, it is made of fine ingrain black silk the only material that takes a sufliciently rich black colour. White thread will not dye black, but a rusty brown, so lace
worked with
it
should never be altered to black.
silk is
more troublesome than working with
Beginnees' Stem to the next line, if at all possible otherwise, tie vcq and cut off the Bobbins, after having fastened them with two
Working with
Sewings to the
Honiton Lace making, there is every reason for the lace continuing to form a valuable article of commerce; the work produced is extremely v.'hito and delicate, is
part
make a Rope Sewing,
or plait ;
lace.
Honitou Guipure.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The
form of Honiton Lace now worked and described under Hoijiton Lace.
Honitou
Iiace.
thread, as the silk loosens after the stitches are made, unless carefully manipulated. In the present stage of
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The first laces made in England were
Darned Laces, and to these succeeded Bone Laces, a manufacture brought from the Continent by early emigrants. The record of the first making of Bone Lace in Devonshire is obscure, but Honiton was the centre of the trade in the time of Queen Elizabeth; and it is believed that Bone Lace was made there in the very early part of her reign. The laces then made were a coarse thread lace, and plaited laces of gold and silver thread, after the Italian and Greek Eeticellas. The making of English Lace was from an early date protected by Royal enactments, which forbade the importthe Outworks and
ation of foreign
laces, particularly excluding Flemish.
The Honiton Lace workers attempted to imitate Brussels Lace, that made by them being largely worn at the Court of Charles II.; bvit
it
was very
inferior to the true Brussels
Lace, the delicate Fillings and openwork stitches so profusely scattered over that lace being omitted, and heavy
Guipure Bars substituted.
The
pattei-ns also
true copies of the originals, but rendered
were not
unmeaning by
made in them, and by the coarseness of the Queen Anne repealed the lace edicts, but George II. and George III. re-enacted them; and as by this time the Guipure Bar Ground in Honiton Lace had been succeeded by the working of true Bi'ussels Ground, Ihe alterations
thread used.
and the patterns formed of detached lace impi-oved, and gradually became perfect. The workers executed the Vrai Reseau with the finest of Antwerp thread, and with great delicacy and as the sprays used could be made over and over again by the same worker, groat precision and beauty were attained in the manufacture and during the forty years preceding 1820, the Honiton Lace produced stands unrivalled by its contemporaries. After that date, when machine-made net was first introduced, the trade fell into obscurity, the patterns being designed by the workers themselves, and debased in composition; and although attempts were made by the Royal family to raise the standard of manufacture, the lace produced was rejected by the foreign markets, and it was not till International Exhibitions opened the eyes of traders to the importance of good designs that they were again sought out, and the lace reinstated into its old position. The present manufacture of Honiton Lace is almost exclusively confined to Honiton Guipure, in which detached sprigs, after being or Vrai Reseau,
flower
sprays,
Fig.
-ISj.
Honiton LiCE Srnio,
English
;
;
executed with great care, and from good designs, and is remarkable for its Raised Work, or Work in Relief, of the The making of it can be acquired by finest description.
who possess a good sight and touch, and a certain amount of patience. The materials for making Honiton Lace are as follows The pattern traced as a whole, and portions of it separately pricked, known as Passements, upon which the lace is worked a Pillow, with Covering cloths. Lace and common all
:
;
Pins, Pincushion, fine Crochet Hook, Needlepin, six dozen
Bobbins, Honitou Lace Thread (Nos. 195 and 17-5), and the shiny lace thi-ead called Gimp. The chief stitches used in the Lace are described under their own headings, as they are used in other Pillow Laces. The two most important are Whole or Cloth Stitch, an imitation of close weaving, and used for all the thick outlines of flowers or thick leaves, &c., and Half, or Lace Stitch, used for lighter parts of the outlines, or lighter
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. After tiese come tte rillings, or open stitclies, used to lighten tlie centres of the patterns. These include Diamond Holes, Chequer, Dame Joan, Flemish, Fibre, Lace, Net, Open Dots,Star, Vandyke and Cross Tracing; Wheel, Cucumber, Long, Crinkle and Square Plaitings Devonia, leaves.
;
Honiton, Italian, and Net Grounds; Plain, Pearl," and Inner Edges; False Pinholes; Buckle, Beginners', and Ordinary Stems Branching and Centi-e Fibres HeadFootings; Twists; Tracings; Vandyke Tracings; ings ;
;
;
Gimps; Knots; Rope and Return Rope
;
Curves; Circles;
Besides these recognised stitches, there are certain manipulations, with the Bobbins and other implements, to be leamt before the lace can be properly made.
Fia. 480.
They are as
is
the latter plan can only be pursued at small increases
when rounding curves. The Bobbins change their positions so continually .that it is useless to piit a distinguishing mark upon them, but an expert lacemaker understands the order they should be used
follows
:
HONITON LACE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; POP.PY AND BEYONY DESIGN.
When holding
the Pillow on the knee,
something that will resist it, and arrange so that the worker does not stoop. Always treat the Bobbins as pairs, with the exception of the Gimps, which hang on with the other Bobbins, so as to lie on each side, immediately inside the pin. Hang the number of Bobbins it
The increasing and decreasing the width of the managed by adding or cutting ofE Bobbins in pairs at the pinholes, or by spreading out the threads over a wider surface, or drawing them closer together;
heap. lace
or decreases, or
Tarns.
let
more, are called the Workers, or Runners, and reaUy form the lace as they work backwards and forwards, from side to side, over the Hangers, or Passive Bobbins, which simply hang down the pillow, and should be spread out in a fan shape there, and not allowed to lie together in a
rest against
required for a leaf or other part of a pattern at the tip or base of the part as directed, tie them up first in pairs, with
them placed on the passive Bobbin, and then knot all the ends together in one big knot, through which stick a pin, and put it into the pinhole. The length of the thread from the Bobbin to the knot is 4 inches, and when it is used in the lace and more is required, unwind from the Bobbin by lifting the Half Hitch. Divide the Bobbins into two sets one set, consisting of three pairs or
the knot that secures
;
(Piest Paei.)
The threads twist and mentally numbers them. and tangle themselves together as they lie, and when the pillow is put down this roughens the thread and renders it brittle, and is one of the chief difficulties that a beginner has to encounter, as every twist must be patiently undone, an extra one causing a hole in the work. Knots and brittle places in the thread require to be wound out of the way, the thread cut off, and a fresh Bobbin put in, or the lace is rendered coarse and uneven. in,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
The Bobbins, when working, should not be looked at; the pins should be stuck in rather slanting, and only far enough to hold the lace, and the hands used together simultaneously to pass the Bobbins over and under each other mechanically, without following them with the eye,
which should be
fixed
on the
lace,
ready to detect
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. an error in the making. Take out any false stitches and rough or untidy looking holes, by patiently untwisting The lace is the Bobbins until that part is reached. executed upon the -wrong side, so that all irregularities and Ornamental Knots should be iTpon the upper surface. Fillings are worked upon the wrong side, vmless directions Good lace will present a to turn the work are given. firm and compact surface the pinholes in it v/ill be close together, the open stitches and holes of uniform shape and size, and the edge firmly twisted while bad lace will fail in all these particulars, and present an untidy, dragged appearance. Before commencing any Lace pattern, learn the stitches by working them as braids. See Braids. ;
;
259
reached Sew two Return to the pairs to each Pinhole, Tic and cut ofE. tip, pick up the four pairs of Bobbins left there, and work down in Half Stitch, adding a pair at the -widest part of the leaf make a Rope Sewing to next leaf, -work half near the end, and,
when
the flower,
is
;
of this in Cloth Stitch, as far as the reverse fold, there
turn and work the other half, finishing in the flower as before. To complete the leaf hang on seven pairs of
Bobbins at the tip, and work the reverse fold. Commence the third leaf at the flower, Sewing to each pinhole two pairs of Bobbins for four holes work the leaf in halves in ;
Cloth Stitch with an open Fibre. The centre of the flower is now filled in with Squake PtAiTiNGS, which have to be carefully worked, as there
is
no securing
stitch
between
^^
^:
''^^j
Fia.
487.
HONITON LACE-POPPT AND BETONT DESIGN.
To work the Honiton Sprig shown in Fig. 485 (page 2S7) Prick out the pattern upon parchment, IDeess the PiLLOVf, and commence with the middle round of the flower, where the Half Stitch is drawn. Hang on sis pairs of Bobbins and a Gimp, work round the inside petal in Half Stitch, then hang on another pair of Bobbins, and work round again, Se-wing to one edge then work round the last time, half the way in Half Stitch, and the ;
remainder in Cloth or Whole Stitch, cut off the Gimp and two pairs of Bobbins, and work Fibre Stitch down the stem of the front leaf; at the tip hang on four pairs of Bobbins, which fasten down on the pillow
and
leave.
Turn the
pillow,
and work down the side is shown with the hanging on another pair
of the leaf where the Cloth Stitch six pairs
1
worked with before,
theln;
(Skcond Part.)
twist the threads twice instead of four times, and,
Bobbin worked second from pulling, lay it with back on the pillow, so that the threads are slack, while the next Square Plaiting is made with pairs three and four, and the pairs nearest them. The flower being finished, the stalk is next worked. Commence at the tip of the tiny leaf near the bottom, hang on eight pairs of Bobbins at the tip, and work in Cloth Stitch cut ofÂŁ a pair of Bobbins as the corner is turned, and work up to the reversed leaf; here hang on five pairs, and leave six behind to keep the its pair
;
with which to work the stalk, and work Stem along the upper part of the right-hand side of the leaf and the lo-n-er of the reverse fold; return with eight pairs (adding a pair), first in Half Stitch, then in Cloth Stitch, and cut Bobbins at the end. Pick up the Bobbins left on the
and work off the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
26o
and work witli them to tlie top bud as before work Stem round one side and across the top of tlie calyx; add a pair of Bobbins, and work tbe bnd in halves, connecting the first row to the middle row of stem. Cut off the Bobbins when the calyx is finished, and hang on at the main stalk stalk,
;
Work according to pattern, but at the turn of the stem, where the bud springs from the calyx, make a pinhole at the Inside Edge instead of a Turning Stitch, which will bring the inner edge into a peak. Work the three small leaves, two in Cloth Stitch and one in Half
for the other bud.
Stitch, with six pairs of Bobbins.
For the largest
half-
opened flower Begin at the bottom of the lowest petal, and work the three middle ones in Raised Woek and Half Stitch with eight pairs each- Hang on eight pairs of Bob:
them in Cloth For the calyx Begin at the tip of the lowest leaf with six pairs, work that and the middle one, then up the outside petal of the flower in Cloth Stitch, and do the open back petals pass the thread across the one closed jsetal in a Plait. Finally, work the third calyx leaf with nine pairs of Bobbins, as it is worked over the middle leaf, and Sew to the Raised Work strands. Cut off thi-ee pairs, and work Stem to the main stalk; cross this, and work the bins at the tip of each back petal, and work Stitch.
:
;
hollow
Commence
leaf.
the other flower at the tip of the
the Raised
Work
usually requires five pairs, but four are
enough for a small indentation. When, however, the points of the jags run upwards, treat the indentations as small leaves, add extra Bobbins at the tip, and work back down the point, making Sewings on one side to prevent the hole showing where the stem first turns upwards, and add an extra pair there to be left behind and worked in at the base. Work Fibre up the centre stem, the open dots with Inner Pearl, the small dots as Flemish Stitch, the zig-zag device on some of the leaves in Vandyke Tracing and Cross Tracing. The lace in relief has now to be worked. Begin with the flower shown in Fig. 488, Detail A. This is worked flat upon the Pillow, the centre petals first. Work round the inner ring with five pairs, join the circle, add another pair, and work up one side of petal, add three more pairs, then work Cloth Stitch, Sewing first to the stem and then to the inner circle, add by degrees four paii-s, and Sew twice into each pinhole of the centre ring, to bring the Bobbins round as each petal finislies, gradually cut off the Bobbins down to six pairs, then work the next petal. These petals are not joined where they touch, but, when the last is finished, and the Bobbins are cut off to six pairs, the back petals in Half Stitch are worked over them. Each of ;
middle calyx leaf with six pairs of Bobbins in Cloth Stitch, then work the two middle petals in Half Stitch work one over the calyx leaf, which connect at the tip as it crosses, then the calyx in Half Stitch, and Stem to the main stalk. Return to the flower Work the npper calyx leaf and up the side petal in Half Stitch, then the open back pietals and down the lower side petal in Cloth Stitch, and
these takes sixteen of Bobbins add them gradually the stem is as pairs
;
Work
this
one-third
of
worked.
:
stem the
way
round
Work
work over the part
the stalk of the flower and the two leaves on the main stalk
already done with-
Branching Fibre, Cloth and Half Stitch. The Poppy and Bryony pattern given in Figs. 486 and 187 (pp. 258 and 259) is a Honiton Lace pattern, into which Raised Work is introduced, and should be worked bj' good
out minding it, take the pieces out, and leave it to be held
finish with the lower side calyx leaf in
Cloth Stitch.
in
The
lacemakers.
specialties of the pattern are the inner
petals of the flower, the butterflies' wings,
and
all
parts that
stand up in the bold relief which is the most difiicult and eifective part of Honiton Lace. The long leaves which form the framework of the pattern are done first, then the inner leaves, flowers,
the gi-ound
and buds.
filled
in,
The border
is
then formed,
the lace unpicked, and the same
pattern worked over the Passement until a flounce length is completed. When the length is made, the lace is
taken
off
the Pillow, and the Relief work arranged with
down with the covering work
is
circle
in the Sewings,
like
the
first
petal.
The
difficult
which are attached
made
ones.
To make
part of the to the inner
these
Sew
:
the small petals to the outer strands of the circle, and
Make three Sewings when doing the final leaves; when put a Square Plaiting in the centre
the large ones to the cross sti-ands. in
the same place
these are finished,
Finish the flower of the flower, and cut ofl' the Bobbins. by working leaf, stem, and seed pod in Half and Cloth The flower opposite the one Stitch and Open Braid. just worked is done in the same manner, the difference
produced when the lace
taken
Commence with the long kaf that has Vandyke Plaitings as a centre. Work with eight pairs of
in the effect being
and carry Stem along the and work back. The first two jags are made by spreading the Bobbins, adding more
up its petals, the other to Plaitings are worked in the centre of this last flower, on the right side, after the lace is taken off the Pillow. The centre flower, shown in Fig. 489, Detail B, is next
a needle.
Bobbins from the base of
inner side to the tip of
it,
leaf, turn,
required and, following the course of the pinholes, as the indentures become deeper, leave the three inside pairs if
;
and carry Stem to the tip with the others, hang on a fresh pair at each Pinhole and leave it behind when the tip is reached, turn and work straight back across these new pairs. Pursue this plan always when indentations stand out clear and square fi'om a leaf the number of Bobbins left behind vary according to circumstances of Bobljins,
;
;
is
off
made to fold Crinkle open them out.
the Pillow by the needle, one flower being
made.
It consists of three tiers of petals.
inside tiers in
Cloth Stitch,
Work
the two
the outside tier in
Half
Stitch, and these last finish with Pearl where they form the edge of the scallop. Work these petals in the same as those described for the first flower, the Sewings being the most difficult part, which are made in the same place three times over.
manner
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
261
and work the wings as before, but fasten framework leaves on each side. These wings cannot be worked over the foundation wings on account
Next work the centre leaves and seed pods. Begin -with the stem of the drooping one, and carry it round the curve until it reaches the seed pod here npon the pattern are two sets of pinholes in the form of ovals, one inside the
of the Butterfly,
and carry Stem all round it at the base; hang on eight more pairs of Bobbins, and work Cloth Stitch to the tip, then cut off the middle Bobbins, and leave five pairs on each side, with which make the two points, carry Stem to their tie up tips, and return to the oval, where Sew securely
The half open Bryony leaf needs a description, but the Bryony leaf and bud in Half Stitch, the tendrils, the half opened flower, and the drooping bud can be worked from the illustration. For the Bryony leaf Begin at the
;
Work
other.
the large oval
first,
;
Thus, having finished the uijper part of the seed pod, take the pins out, and turn the pod back on tbe Pillow, with a pin to fasten it; hang on six pairs of Bobbins at the base of the inside work Stem to oval, Sew to the stem of the upper one the Bobbins and cut
them
off.
;
the
tip,
hang on seven more
pairs
and a Gimp, and work
them
to the
of the tracery.
:
end of the tendril, follow it to the leaf, then continue the Stem up the back. Hang on two pairs at the tip, and work back in Cloth Stitch, Sew to the outside strands
When
of the stem. reached, carry
the
first
Wokk
division of
the leaf
Sew
centre fibre.
to the tip,
twice or thrice into each hole, as there
Spread out the more outside than inside holes. Bobbins to form tlie next point of the leaf, and follow
back in Cloth Stitch; this being the foundation oval, the work requires to be close and firm; fasten once more to the npper stem, tie up and cut off the Bobbins.
are
Take out the pins, bring the first oval down into its place, and pin the small one over it; when the Geound Fasten six is put in it must be sewn to the small oval. pairs of Bobbins to the stem where it intersects the drooping leaf, work Stem to the large poppy, return
and the work
with eight pairs of Bobbins, and add gradually four more pairs where the leaf
pillow without cutting off any of the Bobbins, and
when that tip is reached, being carried down the last edge, gather the five pairs next to the pins in a cluster, which pass between the working Bobbins in one row, and under them in the next like a Gimp. Arrange the Sewings so as to the course of the outside holes
finish this side of the leaf neatly at the base.
where leaf and flower touch, and work the second
compress or expand the work according to the holes, and unworked wherever the holes arc close together,
leave one
and inside level. Bring a cluster Bobbins down the side of the last point, cut off eight paii;s, work to the tip, tic up the Bobbins, and leave them there to work the ground with, which, when sewn to this in any part, must be attached to the lace worked last, and not to the lace below it. Fill in all the flower part of the design with Devonia Geound, and then commence the border and the Italian Ground.
half of the leaf in
so as to keep the outside
the same way, then
of five pairs of
and cut
oif
Work
and then the stem of the upright seed pod. which is Stem worked round the small scallops, and fastened off and filled in afterwards with Ckinkle or Plain Plaitings.
the other
This
leaf,
made
is
Work
like the first one, except the finish,
the raised Butterfly as follows:
Commence
with
the body, and work it with seven pairs of Bobbins, then with five pairs work the tracery inside the foundation wings, and carry Stem all round the foremost wing do the outside edge first, and as it is worked hang on a pair of Bobbins at each pinhole, except at the three corners, to which hang on two pairs leave these extra Bobbins behind for filling in the wing in Half Stitch, which commence when the base is reached, and fasten the tracery with ;
;
a
Sewing
where
it
as
it is
passed.
Pearl
forms the outer edge.
foundation wing, leave
off at
the wing of Butterfly
In working the
the further corner
:
first
cut off
Bobbins and work Stem round the other wing to the base, hang on two extra pairs at the three corner holes, and one at the remaining holes, leave these, and work with them the inside of the wiug in Half Stitch, then tie up the Bobbins and out off. Now turn the wing completely back, fold a piece of thin paper, and pin it down over it. Hang on five pairs of Bobbins to the body five pairs of
Turn the work
;
flower
the Bobbins.
;
is
back the reverse way over the same ground in Half Stitch. The Sewings to the stem must be made to the cross strands, and two or three in one hole the outside edge work in the same holes as before, but not in Raised Work, for fear of joining the two sides together in drawing the Sewing,^
widens, fasten to the
tie \ip
is
hang on two extra pairs of Bobbins at the first hole, and one at each succeeding hole, work straight back from the tip to the
Raised
The border
is
worked in
Wheel
Stitch, and with
Diamond Holes. The latter is worked first, and resembles Chequer Stitch worked slantwise: Hang on eleven pairs of Bobbins at the tip of one of the border three Working pairs, and one Passive or leaves, thus
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
pair on each side next the pins, and six other pairs in sets of three. Work from the outside across the Hangers next the pins (called the side pair), twist the
Hanging
Workers
thrice,
work three
stitches, the last a
Turning
Stitch, return to the edge, and twist the Workers before doing the side pair. In the third row, work the side pair, twist, work two, the last a Turning Stitch, and return to the edge. Fifth row work the side pair, twist, make a Turning Stitch, and return, then work the side pair only and back again this wUl bring the Workers down another
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
;
hole,
Twist
and all
is
the same as doing two
slanted. 3,
together.
and the preliminary diamond is made, and the For the rest of the Diamonds, work 1, twist, twist, work 3, twist, work 1 repeat this row three
five times,
work work
Sewings
the Hangers, except the two side ones, four or
;
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
262
row is finished, wori over the side pair and back again, twist the six middle pairs, and work three rows, again twisting after the 1st, 4th, and 7th stitches one side will finish before the other, because of the slant in the stitch; wind tap as commenced, working across four pairs and back, then across three, and finally times, then, wliicliever side the
;
across two pairs.
When
the
Diamond
leaf
is
finished, cut
oS sis pairs of Bobbins, and work the circle and the companion leaf— the circle in Raised Work, the leaf in Half Stitch, and the wheel as given in Wheel Stitch this com;
pletes the border.
;
almost similar to the first portion, the difference being, that the Bryony buds are worked in Chequer Stitch, and the butterfly with expanded wings in Half Stitch work it ;
and sew on after the Italian Ground is made. The lace being finished and taken off the pillow, work the Crinkle Plaiting centres to the poppies, and then adjust the Relief Work. Lay the lace on tissue paper, and thread the finest possible needle with lace thread, and with them adjust the petals, sewing them to their separately,
Make
knot on the thread to begin with, and to fasten off make a stitch, pass the needle once through the loop, and draw it up and cut the thread off close. For the first poppy, which folds over towards the middle, run a thread along the edge of the inner petals,
and draw them
a
little
close, or leave
them
The back, arrange by
partially open.
opposite poppy, that curves its leaves attaching the curved petals to the back petals, run the thread at the back of the lace, and give two stitches to one petal and one to another;
do not sew them regularly down, but vary their effect. The middle poppy requires the inner petals to stand up, and the outer .to lie down treat them as described above. For the long flower, sew both sides together the other flower, which is more open, sew only partially, and catch the middle petal to the side ones. For the seed pods, sew the large oval to the small one on both sides, but not at the tip, as this should stand up. Fasten down the calyx of the opening flower with a stitch at the tip, and sew on the loose butterflies. ;
To
stiffen the lace
Boil a quarter of an ounce of rice in
:
a pint of water, strain
when
cold,
and brush
inside of the parts that are in Belief
this over the
but only damp, not thoroughly wet them. Brush over the ordinary Relief parts with a camel hair brush, but where a bold curve or round is to be given to a petal, mould that piece over an ;
ivory knitting needle that has been dipped into the rice water. The knitting needle is more effective than the brash for stiffening the inside of buds or seed pods, and, in fact, wherever a rounded appearance to the lace in
Relief
is
required
opera cloaks, jackets, and employed for evening wear they iised to be called Caleches. The Hood forma part of the Bedouin's national dress, and of the costume of the
it
will be
Honiton Trolly.—This
found
useful.
Honiton Lace with a Trolly Ground, and was worked before Honiton lace became is
celebrated.
Hood.— One of the various descriptions of head-dress, equally adopted by the two sexes. In some countries ladies use them instead of Hats and Bonnets, making them of cloth of a light scarlet colour,
and braided.
They
are
When
monastic orders. They are also worn attached to thick coats or ulsters, by sailors on Arctic expeditions, and by soldiers
engaged in campaigning and sentry work. A check cotton stuff exclusively manu-
Hoohoo.
—
factured for the African trade.
Hooks.
—An appliance made of
white metal wire bent
and pressed closely together, then bent across so as to form a tongue, which may be passed through an eye of the same metal wire, so as to make a movable connection between them. The remaining in the
The grounding to this part of the lace is composed of Italian Ground (which sen). The completion of this design is given in Kg. 486 it is
proper places.
also attached to burnouses,
iilsters.
centre,
portions of
the wire are each curled outwards
the end of
the
—
—below
formed and rounded into a pair of small rings, by means of which the hook is sewn to any material. They may be had both in black and white, and of various sizes and thickness, to suit the textile and the dress of either men or women. They are sold on cards, and also loose in bags of h cwt., by the lb., or the oz. likewise in papers of from olb. to 61b. The numbers run from 4 to 8 inclusive. tongue
;
—A
Hoops. graduated collection of steel bands, either enclosed in casings in a petticoat, or fastened together with a succession of tapes, at regular distances, preserving the form of a hooped petticoat common kinds are composed of ;
whalebone, cane, or even of coarse hemp cord. This form of dress extender has been fitly described as a " pyramidal bell hoop." There were also "circular bell hoops" and " pocket hoops," besides other even
more extravagant and grotesque varieties, which for moi'e than 200 years were
Queen and revivals down to the present day. Hoops extending only halfway round have also been in vogue, and small extenders of the petticoats, called " bustles," worn just at the back from successively in fashion,
and, since the time of
Elizabeth, have had
extinction
fitful
halfway down the skirt, made of whole petticoats of the latter material, frequently supersede the use of the most ungraceful and inconvenient Hoop. Eea Crinoline. Hopsacking. These are very coarse cloths, made of a combination of Hemp and Jute. See Sacking. the waist, reaching crinoline, as well as
—
—
Horrocks' Calico. A superior make of calico, so from the name of the manufacturer. These are A 1 " and " B 1," both 36 inches in width, and are
called sold "
suitable for underlinen.
—
Hose. Another and more ancient name for stockings. Sometimes called " Hosen," as in the Book of Daniel, chap, iii., v. 21, and in Robert of Gloucester's Chronicle " Hosyn enclosyd of the most costyoiis cloth of cremsyn." The " Trunk -hose " of the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. were very wide breeches. Hosiery. In olden times this term now altogether
—
restricted to stockings
—used to
—
denote men's breeches.
His youthful hose, well saved, a world too wide For his shrunk shanks. —ShnTcespeare.
Hosiery socks.
every description of stockings and the former there are white cotton,
signifies
Amongst
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. unbleached, striped, white merino, coloured mei'ino, ribbed merino, lambs' wool, cashmere, black worsted, both plain
and knitted. Each has its sizes, which are numbered from No. 1 to No. 9 in stocks and stockings. The size is known by a corresponding number of small holes to be found manufactured in the feet. Hose and half hose, for men, youths, and boys, are of the following description Men's lambs' wool, merino, worsted (both plain and knitted), fancy stripes, and brown cotton (plain and knitted). :
Women's stockings silk (both plain
are also to be had in Lisle thread, and ribbed) with clocks only or open work,
and in various
colours, as well as in black.
The best The
cotton stockings are the fine unbleached Balbriggan.
women's stockings are known as full size, medium, slenders, and small women's. Under the same term, Hosiery, other articles besides stockings and socks are included, viz., all descriptions of underclothing worn by men, and their ties, handkerchiefs, belts, and braces. several sizes of
—
Hosiery-fleecy. A textile of the common stocking make, woven of fine fleeces of wool, the webs, when woven, being cut up into waistcoats and other articles of dress.
Huccatoons.
—A
cotton cloth, manu-
description of
factured in Manchester expressly for the African export trade.
Hucka'back.
—A
coarse kind of linen cloth, manufac-
tured in small knots at close and regular intervals, making a rough face. It is employed for towels, and is very
Huckabacks may
durable.
also be
had in cotton, and
towels may be purchased ready made in towel lengths, or cut from pieces.
likewise of a mixture of both.
The
—
Hugtienot Lace. An imitation lace worked some fifty now obsolete. It is made of a net foun-
years ago, but
which aster or rosette shaped flowers of mulled muslin are sewn. To work Draw out upon pink calico a simple pattern formed with rosette-shaped flowers, with buds and single leaves connected together by a flowing and entwined stalk. Back this pattern with brown paper and tack the net to it. Prepare several strips of mull muslin 1 inch in width, 6 inches in length, double the muslin, and place the edges so that they dation, on to
:
263
shown in
Pig. 490. Join the muslin together, and draw the run thread tightly up so as to form a rosette composed of points like the rosettes formed with Tape in Tape Work.
Sew
this rosette to the net, attach every point or fold securely to the net, and, carrying the thread quite round the petal, make another rosette of muslin with a smaller
number
of points, which sew inside the first so that the two form a raised flower. Leave in the centre flower enough of the net foundation visible so as to have an eightarmed Wheel worked over it. Buds are formed with nine points of muslin. Prepare the muslin as before, bitt do not connect it together draw it up as a half circle, and sew it in this shape to the net foundation. Form leaves like buds, but with only four or three points, and make stalks and tendrils by Darning in three threads of lace in the linos over the pattern. A glazy thread, such as is used for Gimp, is the best for these lines. Edge the lace with a number of leaves tacked close together with their points ;
tui-ning outward.
Numerous
varieties of patterns can be
formed by altering the number of petals to a flower, working Wheels surrounded by Overcast holes, and by using fancy Darning Stitches about the net but the manner of making the muslin p]etals docs not vary. Hungarian Emljroidery. A description of Applique, with linen and twill materials, used for chair backs and table borders. To work Trace out a bold flower design upon ecru coloured holland, and back the holland with scarlet or blue twill, of the same length and width. Buttonhole round the outlines of the pattern, and fasten with the stitches the two materials together. Cut away all the holland outside the Buttonhole lines, and ;
—
:
expose in these places the twill background. Work Tete DE BcEUP, Coral, Satin, and fancy embroidery stitches on the ecru holland design. Use the same colour thread for these as for the Buttonhole lines either white, scarlet, or
—
blue.
I. Idiot Stitch. — One of the names given to Tricot Stitch (see
Crochet,
pag*l"28).
—A
French term, denoting a description of and 72 inches. Illusion Wool Work. An easy Berlin Wool Work, intended for young children. To work Make in single Berlin scarlet wool a number of scarlet rounds in Cross Stitch. Ground in between them in Cross Stitch with dark blue wool. The name is also given because, on Illusion.
silk tulle,
made
in widths of 54 inches
—
:
./
shaking the work, the scarlet rounds appear to dance. Imitation Ijace. Machine-made lace, made both of flax and cotton thi-ead, woven to resemble different kinds of It may be had in many varieties lace and small edgings. of width and finish, and is comparatively inexpensive. In the years 1817-19 It is chiefly made at Nottingham. English workmen established themselves at Calais, taking
—
meet
in the centre at the back of the strip
into points, thus
:
the back where the
then fold
it
turn the corner of the strip down to first
and make the second first,
;
broken line is shown in Fig. 490, by folding the strip over the
line,
turn also to the back,
make
the third line by folding
the closed strip over to the front, and the fourth by folding the closed strip over to the back, the
number
of
points or folds required will depend upon the size of a flower, every alternate isoint
forming a
needle with fine lace thread, and run so that
it
follows the lines ma.de
it
petal. Thread a along the muslin,
by the
folds,
and as
them a machine on the " straight bolt " principle, and the manufactory there established has prospered and kept pace with all the English improvements. There are four varieties of superior quality made at Calais, and St. PieiTe-les-Calais, the Maliues, and Valenciennes imitations amongst them. At Caen, Lille, St. Quintin, Camvrith
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. bray, Chantilly, aud Lyons,
tlie
macliine-tnaae imitations
formed witli tbick Pillow-made braid, or witb tliick Needle-made Buttonbole Hues. These can be so easily imitated by the machine braids formed into patterns and joined together with needle-made Bars and Fillings that hardly any kind of braid or tape lace has escaped One of the simplest arrangements of these copying. machine braids is shown in Fig. 491, which is an imitation of Honiton lace, carried out with the assistance of three kinds of braid. These consist of the open straight bi-aid used for the straight lines, the thick braid resembling Cloth Stitch, and the open braid resembling Half, or Lace Stitch. The two last named are manufactured in a series of ovals, and not as straight pieces. To work Trace the design upon X^ink calico, and tack down the plain straight lines of braid to it. Take the Half Stitch Braid, and, without cutting it, arrange it in a succession of Vandykes along the upper part of the pattern, so as to fill in where shown, and arrange the Cloth Stitch Braid in a similar manner. After the Cloth Stitch Braid is arranged, sew the alternate ovals composing it thickly over to form the stem of the leaf, and then tack on the Half Stitch Braid at the bottom of the pattern :
Fig. 491.
of lace, botli in black
Imitation Hositon Lace.
and white, are very
beautiful,
aud
492.
Since the manufacture
two Vandyke
Having thus tacked all the braids them together. Take fine lace cotton.
lines.
IMITATION VENETIAN LACE
l:iy machinery of ornamental made of fine linen thread, numerous laces have been imitated with their help, particularly those laces
braids
in
in position, secure
scarcely to be detected as imitations.
and Overcast all the edges of the ovals to the straight braid wherever they touch each other, Overcast all the edges of the three descriptions of braid, and make
Corded
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Bars and finish,
pliiin
Wheels
while Overcasting;
and, as a
sew an ornamental lace edging to the lower edge
of the pattern.
hand-made Venetian Lace, worked with a thick braid, with a cord sewn
Fig. 492 is an imitation of
and is round its edge to imitate the raised Cordonnet of the old Spanish and Venetian Point. To work Trace the design upon pink calico, and tack down to it a plain, thick linen braid half an inch in width, and tack down and neatly turn in this braid wherever the pattern by its sharp curves and twists requires the braid to be doubled; round all the edges of this broad braid run a fine cord. Pill in the open parts of the pattern with Wheels, Escaliee, and Point d'Espagne, and :
connect the various parts together with
Fia.
Buttonhole
493.
lace
stitches,
and
finally
265 stitch
down
in the centre of
the braid a fine line cord, which forms the raised OoE-
DONNET. The outer edge bought lace edging.
of
the lace ornament with a
worked in imitation of the and Greece. To work: Trace the
Fig. 495 (p. 266) is a lace
Tape Laces
of Italy
entirely with
a plain thick linen together with Buttonhole Bars, ornamented with Picots. Fill in all the spaces left between the outline braids with a pattern, outline braid,
single
and
it
connect
the
various
parts
Point de Beuxelles.
Imitation Breton Laces and Imitation Brussels Laces already described, can be referred to. These from the imitation Braid Laces, as they are worked upon net, to which a braid is sewn, and the
being differ
IMITATION GREEK LACE.
Bars ornamented with Picots. As a finish, go over the cord forming the Cordonnet. Leave this uncovered where plain in the design, but stitch it down and work it over with fine cotton and with close Buttonholes in some parts and in others with thick cotton and in Rope Stitch to form the
fancy stitches ornamenting them are formed with the the net being used as their foundation. Haythorne's linen braid and Mecklenburgh linen thread
needle,
to the braid,
are the best to use for all Imitation Laces.
in tlie edging. Where the Cordonnet is ornamented, work Point de Venise as an edging. Fig. 493 is an imitation lace resembling some of the
Another Imitation Lace is a modern Embroidery, intended as an imitation of Spanish Lace. It is worked upon fine linen or cambric, with Meckleubvirgh lace thread and fine cord. To work as shown in Fig. 494 (page 266) Trace the design rapon cambric and tack it to a piece of Toile Cire, outline all thick pai-ts of the design with a fine cord, which stitch down securely,
difference
Greek Laces. It is worked with a braid made with an open edge upon each side, and thick in the centre. To work Tack the braid upon the pattern. Overcast round all its edges, taking care to keep the open lacelike look of the edging untouched, and make the Buttonholed Bars, which ornament with Picots. :
Fill
in the centres of
the pattern with various fancy
:
and Buttonhole roiuid the outer edge of lace. Work the ground as follows Arrange upright and horizontal lines of fine cord across the spaces to be filled, and wherever they cross, work over and under the four meeting lines, drawing them together in the :
M M
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
266
Wheel, or Stae, or work Baes ornamented with PicOTS
shape of a small or
Buttonliole
When
ground.
the ground
is finished,
simple as
a
cover the out-
show the number of stitches, the front will reHaving finished the Combed - out Woek.
will
semble
comb out the ends of wool. Imperial Tape. A superior description of Tape, firmly made, and sold in numbers running from 11 to pattei'n,
—
See Tape.
151.
Impermeable.
— The
term
especially used in reference It
is,
Impermeable
is
to the passage of
mora fluids.
employed in conrmerce to signify water-
therefore,
proof, in reference to articles of wear, or for other uses.
Inch.
—A
measure of length, being
barleycorns in
its
equal
extent, or yVth of a foot.
to
three
It is em-
measurement of textiles, which short lengths are required,
ployed in commerce for the especially
such as
those
lace, or
Netting, Imitatioh Spanish Lace.
with linos of fine Buttonhole, and then cut away the linen from undenieath the ground. Imitation Smsrrua Work. Made with canvas, thick wool, Berlin wool-work patterns, and a crochet hook. line cords
—
other trimmings.
—A
term used in Crochet, Knitting, and of the stitches forming the pattern are to be enlarged. See Oeochet, Knitting, and Netting. In working Pillow Lace it is Increase Widths. Increase.
F:a. 49i.
of
when the number
—
continually necessary to enlarge this
enlargement
is
the
pattern.
When
but small and quite temporai-y,
it
T .K
'^yr^^ u.^^f ^S^- ^M M^'f^'
A
sSwML^ m^^^jg^ ^ ^^
19
>m
^^^^M^m^ ^^.^i^mm:. l^i^^'O^
Fia. 495.
as an imitation of
Smtena Rra Knitting.
IMITATION TAPE LACE.
To work
of a large size, out the various shades of three-inch lengths, take up a piece matching
Use canvas
wool into a square of the pattern, double it, and hold it at the Pass the back of the canvas with the left hand. crochet hook through the canvas to the back, and let ends of the it draw the loop to the front, but keep the wool held by the left hand, and still at the back. Pass the crochet hook over two upward strands of canvas, and through to the back again; here pick up the ends of wool and draw them through to the front and through the loop on the hook. The back of the work
spread out the Bobbins already in use, while working fills in the space between the pinholes at its edge, but when the increase width, fresh Bobbins have to be and is of some length is
so
sufficient to
that
the
added, thus
:
lace
Work
before the last row
the lace until near the part, and just is completed and the outside pin is
added, take a pair of Bobbins, tie them together, wind the knot away from the middle, pass the thread under the two working Bobbins, run
it
up
close to the passive
Bobbins, stick a pin and complete the edge, and work these new Bobbins in in the next row with the old ones. Directions are often given in lace patterns to hang on
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Bobbins
;
managed
either as a single in the
oi-
double pairs they
ai'e
both
same way.
Indian Cloths.
—A large number of cotton and woollen
produced in many parts of the country, but chiefly at Dacca (see Dacca Muslin), some of the beautiful productions of which manufactory are very significantly described by their native names, which, being translated, are Evening Dew, Running Water, and Woven Air. One piece of muslin, 4 yards long and 1 yard in width, weighed 566 grains; and another, 12 yards in length, and of the same width as the former piece, weighed 1565 grains. The loom-figured muslins, called Jamdanee, are exquisitely delicate;
the designs are complicated, and, being e/ie/ ti'osiiure of
Indian weaving, are the
most costly of the Dacca productions. The common unbleached calicoes bear names varying with the localities where they are made. Some of the Indian cotton cloths are woven with coloured thread in imitation of English designs, such as " shepherds' " tartans.
cloth
remarkable for
Indian cotton
sail-
and strength. Chintz and other printed fabrics are produced in many places here and there over the country, the former being chiefly manufactured at Musulipatam, Arnec, and Sydaput, in the Madras Presidency, where the cloth is known as Kheetee. Those of Musulipatam show great variety, both in quality and in style. These manufactures are distinguished by the native name of Calum Kouree. Besides, some of the chintzes made for women's clothing show a dazzling variety of colour crimson, puce, pink, and green, is
its
lightness
—
all
The common bleached cotton
blended together.
for
handlooms of Bharlpore, from Cashmere. Those made in Sinde are rich and various in quality, and the dyed cottons produced for the same purpose are some of them very fine, and of great richness of colour, which latter is in some cases laid on with a stamp. Gold stripes decorate certain examples, and others have an admixture of silk, and are fringed with gold thread, or have deep gold borders. Besides these cotton textiles, the woollen and hair fabrics present many beautiful varieties, such as the Cashmere Cloths and those of camels' hair. The Puttoo is composed of the inferior kinds of wool used for their shawls, which latter are made of a substance like swans' down, grov^ing nearest to the skin, underneath the thick hair of the The Indian Tibetian goat, and which is called Pushum. Kersemeres are unlike the Puttoos, being of rather a hard turlaans is chiefly pi-oduced in the
and those of the
Of cloths for carpets and rugs there are five deOne is entirely of cotton, close and stiff in and having a smooth surface. They are known
scriptions.
cloths are comprised in the term India Cloths, which are subdivided into many distinct varieties. The muslins are
regarded as a
country.
267
finest texture
Striped woollen cloths are made in Nepaul, Thibet, and Sikkim, the Cumblee being employed in cold weather as a covering for the head and shoulders. quality like our own.
texture,
by the name of Suttringee, are made all over the country, and are in almost universal use, being very durable. Another cloth m_ade for the same purpose is of a mixed
A
woof is of wool. third kind, made of cotton only, has a short thickset pile of cotton worked into it, while a fourth has a pile of wool. Piece goods of cotton cloth are extensively made in India for home use, material, as the
and likewise for export, including pocket handkerchiefs, and table napkins, large quantities being produced in imitation of European made examples. Calico cloths, made in scarf patterns, are some of them very bright in colour. They are woven in half widths, and have a border on one side and two of these scarfs being sewn together, an entire scarf, bordered on both sides, is intended to be produced. These have silk borders and ends, and show an endless variety of both colours and quality. They are also made with a union of silk, and likewise of sUk only. Cotton rep is a coarse cloth used as a dress material and covering for horses by the natives. Cotton Palempore for bed covering is produced in Bengal. Silk textiles, not being classed under the name of " Cloths," do not enter into the present list of Indian manufactures (for which see Indian Silks, and Indian Muslin). India was the cradle of cotton manufactures and of cotton piunting and she supplied Great Britain with yam and cotton textiles long previously to f lu-nishiug the raw material. Dorcas, Jaconets, and Mulmuls all originated there and for hundreds of years Arabia, Persia, and the eastern parts of Africa were mainly supplied thence with their cotton cloths, muslins, and chintzes. d'oyleys,
;
;
;
Indian Anglo Embroidery. worked
—A
modern embroidery
in imitation of the coloured Indian embroideries.
The foundation kerchief,
of the
such
as
is
work worn
is
a large cotton neck hand-
by peasants in Fi-ance or
These handkerchiefs are selected for thenwhich are oriental and bright coloiu-ed; and these patterns are reproduced by the embroidery executed over them in silks and gold or silver thread. To work Back Switzei'land.
patterns,
:
the cotton handkerchief
with a Ticking lining, outline each distinct portion of the design with Reveksed Chain Stitch worked with a thick strand of filoselle, Sew round this outline lines of gold or silver thread. Fill up the pattern and the ground work with coloured silks that match their colouring, and work with Ceewel and Satin Stitch chiefly, but occasionally introduce Coral, Herringbone, and other close embroidery stitches. Ko part of the original grounding is left visible. Finish with a broad band of plush as a border, and sew a silk fringe to
Felts are also
that.
ka.
and
The work makes handsome and is now very
table covers, cushions,
made for cloaks, leggings, blankets, cushions, The Cashmere Cloths manufactured into shawls forui the most important loom industry of the Punjaub, which about thirty or forty years ago was almost entirely confined to Cashmere but, while the best kinds produced in the Punjaub are those of Umritsur, none of them can
figured ones, called Jamdanee.
compete with the original manufactures of Cashmere. One of the best specimens of a Cashmere woven shawl, and weighing 71b., will cost as much as £300 in the
sheds by the banks of the Ganges, and size the wai-p with rice starch. Some of these muslins are chequered, and three persons are then employed in the manufacture one
;
fire screens,
India Muslin.
—An
fashionable.
exquisitely
fine
description of
Muslin, the most beautiful and delicate kinds of which are produced at Dacca, in Bengal, especially the loom-
The weavers work under
—
M
M.
2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
268
to form the design, another twists it, and the third weaves it. Spinning and weaving are occupations which may be followed without loss of caste.
pulls tbe thread
Indian Muslins were first introduced into this country about the year 1870. Simple and primitive, as they still continue to be, in the method of their weaving, they are superior to our own productions in their durability, and the retention of
their whiteness.
varieties of Indian
Muslin made
;
There are different
some are figured
in
colours, others spotted with gold or silver, or else are plain
white cloths.
Amongst them is the Mulmul, or a descripname is a corruption of Jaghernout,
tion of Jaconet, which
only slighter in quality than ours undressed, plain Buke.
Indian Dhurrie.
See,
;
others resemble a soft,
Indian Cloths.
— A coarse description of thick cotton
imported to this country from India. It is made for hangings, curtains, and other articles of furniture. It has
resembles a Rep in its style of manufacture, and measures about \\ yards iu width.
Indian Embroidery.— Eastern Embroideries have
for
centuries excited the admiration of the world for the
magnificence displayed both in their material and work-
Four centuries before the birth of Christ, when the art in Europe was hardly commenced, the needlework that was displayed upon State occasions by Indian princes manship.
was as gorgeous and as well worked as it is at the present day, and full details of it were given by the Europeans who travelled in those times. No Western nation has ever attained to the profound knowledge and
management
of colour that the Indian
workmen displayed
was corrupted by the introduction of European dyes, aud iu no article is this knowledge better shown than in the numerous State counterpanes and
befoi'e their taste
principal are
;
worked. Silk
All Indian work, with the exception of Floss
upon Net, and Muslin work, it is
is better for study than impossible to give the time necessary
an exact copy, and a partial one frequently perpetuates the faults and none of the beauty of the originals but an European worker will do well to study the
for all
CLOTH EMBEOIDEEy.
a pattern consisting of very broad stripes, of equal width, in blue and red, or two shades of blue, running across the cloth, and has a deep striped border. It somewhat
many
many varieties of needlework, of which the Cashmere work, Embroidery in Chain Stitch, in Braiding Embroidery upon Cloth, Mushn, or Net; Embroidery in Floss Silk, and Quilting. These various kinds of work are done iu many parts of India, but take their name from the district in which they are especially are included
for imitation, as
cloth,
Fio. 49S.
hangings that are still iu existence, and which must be seen before any conception of the untiring patience and skill required in the working out of the elaborate designs, iu stitches arranged in every conceivable form and colour, can be appreciated. Under the title of Indian Embroidery
polychrome effects produced, and the elaborate and yet pure designs. Cashmere Work is one of the principal Indian Embroideries, and the shawls imported to England of this Embroidery are highly prized; in them the needlework almost covers the material, and the work is carried out in every conceivable shade. The prices these shawls command vary from £50 to £300, according to the needlework upon
them, and their value
is generally decided by the height of an inferior shawl being only worked to a certain depth, ani a rich shawl having a border nearly filling up its centre. Cashmere work is generally done upon silk or woollen fabrics, the colours of which are red, black, green, aud white, all of which are frequently used in one piece of needlework. They are joined together as in Inlaid Applique, so as to appear one piece, and form in themselves masses of colom', but they are covered either with Satin Stitch Embroidery in shaded floss silks, or with a number of stitches, such as Cross
their borders,
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Stitch, Point Lance, Heebingbone, Back Stitch, Point de Riz, and Knots, worked with twisted purse
worked in the European on the contrary, an Indian worker rarely fills in two spaces of the pattern alike, using continually the same stitch, but altering the direction to suit the flow of the pattern, and arranging it over the place indiscriminately, and filling in with any other stitch or variety of the same that may silks.
These
stitches
are not
fashion, in straight lines, or all in one direction
strike his fancy.
The
effect of the
pattern
;
much
is
creased by this manner of Embroidery, but it almost impossible of imitation.
it
in-
renders
269
embroidered upon plain net. The first named is the handsomest, and large quantities of it are exported to England. The patterns are generally geometrical designs it is
or conventionalised flowers
and
leaves,
and the Embroi-
executed to entirely conceal the material. The stitch used is flat Satin Stitch for all the chief parts,
dery
is
and Rope or Stem Stitch for the dividing lines of a pattern and the stems of flowers. Chain Stitch is also introduced, but not to any extent. Some of the handsomest Floss Embroideries are those worked with white floss upon scarlet grounds, and used as scarfs or sashes.
Indian Quillhuj Work was carried to great perfection during the Middle Ages, and many specimens executed in those early times are still preserved. The art in India is still carried on, and though nothiug is now produced there
Embroidery is worked much in the same manner as Cashmere Work, but upon various coloured cloths, such These ar€^ joined together as in as black, red, and green. Inlaid Applique, and are either braided with gold braid, or worked with gold thread and gold silk in Chain Stitch, or covered with conventional flowers, worked in flat Satin Stitch, with brightly shaded floss silks. Much of the Cloth Work in gold and silver, upon black and red grounds, comes from Delhi, and is known as Delhi Work but Embroidery with coloured floss upon cloth is also called by that name. Embroidery upon Cloth with gold or silver thread is more easily copied than Cashmere work, as it contains no elaborate stitches, and much of it is
Indian worker will quilt iip anything given him to wad, in radiating circles and geometrical designs, without any pattern and with perfect accuracy. Much of the old Qailting is done upon silk foundations, but some is executed vipon cotton tissue, and so arranged that in places the material is pufl'ed up, and in others left plain, and these last parts embroidered with designs in many colours or the pattern is entirely formed with quilted lines
simple Bkaiding, either with fine gold braid. Backstitched to the material, or with gold thread Couched
are not simply indicated in outline, but are filled in with
down upon the
lines that follow the right contours of the object they
Clotti
;
wnich
is
surface.
Of
this description is Fig. 496,
To
the half of an Indian cloth.
gether, as in
Inlaid Applique,
woi'k
:
Join to-
different coloured cloths
make
;
the outside rim of black cloth also the centre scalloped line; the rest make of scarlet cloth, except the ;
make these alterForm the fine curled
centres of the pine-shaped ornaments
nately of green and blue cloth.
;
round the chief parts of the design with Japanese gold thread sewn to the outside of the material, making the thicker lines with fine silver braid, back-stitched lines
down, and work the round bosses and other ornaments in Overcast and with blue and green floss silk.
—
Indian Chain Stitch. This Embroidery is one of the most ancient of all needleworks; for a long time it was known as Tambour Work, and then as Indian Work upon muslin. It is executed in many forms, either upon Turkey red twill, with white cotton, or upon muslin and net for dress materials, or upon coloured cloth embroidered in silk for articles that do not require washing. The stitche^ rrsed are Chain Stitch and a simple Knot; most of the patterns consist of outlines worked over with Chain Stitch lines, and such places as the veins of leaves, the stamens of flowers, &c., indicated by short Chain Stitch lines, or by a succession of Dots. The work when executed upon net is not always in Chain Stitch, but is formed with a shiny thread Run along all the outlines and in and out the net. Indian Work upon fine muslin or cambric is the same as the fine Embroidery execirted in Ireland upon the same matei'ials, except that it is almost entirely worked with flat Satin Stitch and without open stitches. Indian Floss Silk Work is of two kinds, one where it worked upon coloured cloth or cashmere in elaborate patterns of many shades of floss silk, and the other where is
equalling the old elaborate designs,
still,
arranged as figures, animals, or foliage.
delineate,
the least skilled
These shapes
and the smallest spot upon a leopard, or the
curl of a horse's mane,
is
as faithfully rendered as the
more important parts of the work. Indian Quilting Work was brought to Europe by the Portuguese, and from that country it spread over all the Continent, and became a favourite needlework during the fifteenth and sixeeenth centuries. See Quilting.
—
Indian Floss Silk Embroidery. This work is executed upon black or white net with white or coloured floss silks, and is an imitation of the floss Silk Embroidery made by the natives of India. From the nature of the materials used, the Embroidery should not be subject to much wear and tear, but it is not difficult of execution, is extremely Oriental in appearance, and is suitable for brackets and mantelboards and evening dress trimmings. To work Trace out upon pink calico an Oriental design, composed of conventional leaves and flowers, and work out the design as in ordinary Satin Stitch Embroidery. Tack down to the calico black or white net, and cover the pattern over with a series of long Satin Stitches worked in :
floss silk.
Insert the needle in the lower part of a leaf,
and carry the stitch up to the top of the leaf, here twist the needle round one mesh of the net just to hold the silk, and carry the silk back to the lower part cif the leaf on the upper side of the net, so that none of the silk is wasted at the back of the work. Work long Satin Stitches in this manner over all the pattern, slanting them outwards when forming the petals of flowers, and curving and sloping them, when by so doing the lines of the designs are more fully indicated. Work large leaves, not from the top to the bottom, as before mentioned, but with two lines of stitches radiating from the centre vein, and stems with a number
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
270 of short slanting stitches.
Designs in cream white floss more Oriental in appearance than those into which
silk are
colours are introduced.
—
Indian Hemp, or Snnn. The fibre of the Crotalaria a totally different plant from the Cannabis Sativa, from which Hemp is obtained. See Sunn. Indian Lace. There is little trace of the art of lacemaking to be found in any part of India, which is remarkable in a nation endowed with such wonderful patience and skill over the sister art of Embroidery. All the famous Indian collections of gorgeous textiles and needlework supply only a few specimens of a native lace, consisting of a simple open meshed gauze, embroidered with gold and silver, of the poorest design and execution. The only other work that at all resembles Needle-made lace is a descrip-
—
Knot Work made with a continuous
series of thick
Buttonholes, every three stitches of which are drawn together with a loop passed across them. These rows of
Buttonholes are only varied with lines of Chain Stitch, and the whole forms a compact, massive fabric, not partaking in any way of the lightness and elegance of lace.
Indian Point Lace.
Work
(which
— One
of the terms for
Deawn
the
many
made both
to 12,
and
it
sized
— —
Indots. See Emeeoideet Stitches. Ingrain. A term used in connection with textiles dyed before being woven. The advantage of emplojriag them is that they can be washed without thereby discharging their colours. The cotton cloth called Turkey red, and the red marking cotton, are what is called Ingrain. There are also double and treble-ply Ingrain carpets.
—A
Inkle. kind of linen tape or braid, employed in the sixteenth century as a trimming, and worn on soldiers' uniforms.
It
was made in different colours— plain yellow,
plain white, or striped in blue and pink, or blue and red. It
was much worn by the peasantry as a trimming for and hats. The term Inkle had likewise another
dresses
signification in
early times
—
viz.,
a particular kind of
crewel or worsted "gjth which flowers and other designs
were embroidered.
manu-
With her neeld (needle) composes own shape, of bnd, bird, branch or berry,
That even her
factured in India, five may be more especially indicated as entering extensively into the English liome market.
Indian silks are classified as the "Cultivated" and the "Wild." Amongst the former we import the Corah, Mysore, Nagpore, and Rumchunder; and from the latter
is
length desired.
Nature's varieties
and is of and soft. The may be had cut in any
It is sold in large quantities,
numbers run from 00
see).
Indian Silks. — Amongst
—This variety of tape was formerly known
superior strength, and
jiincea,
tion of
India Tape,
as Chinese tape.
Her
art-sisters, the natural roses,
ruby cherry That pupils lacks she none of noble race Who pour their bounty on her. inkle, silk, tnrn with the
Pericles,
Inkle
used formerly to appear in the
Act V.
Customs unwrought inkle," list
of
or Wild Silks, the Tusore, otherwise called Tusah, and Tusar. There is also that called the Moonga, a superior description of silk of the same class, but em-
or the plain
ployed in the trade with Arabia. The Kincobs are Satin textiles, decorated with designs in gold flowers, and are
consists in ciitting out various pieces of material so that
category,
employed for
ladies' skirts
of silk, but a cotton back,
embroidered flowers
and are
chiefly
;
;
the Mushroos have a surface and are decorated with loom-
the silk brocades are very beautiful, Trichinopoly. Those
manufactured at
"wrought" and
duties described as
"
and embroidered varieties. Inlaid Applig.tie. The description of Applique, which
—
they
fit
into each other,
and joining them together without
See Applique.
their overlaying.
—
Inner Fearl. The Pearls are the ornamental loops used in Honiton and other Pillow laces as a finish to the edge of the design and the Inner Pearls are the same loops worked round an opening in the centre of the lace. There are two ways of making these one with a Gimp, and one without. To woi'k with a Gimp, as shown in the ;
brocades with white silk flowers are from the Deccan, though to be purchased in Madras. The most costly ex-
amples of brocaded silks are massively embroidered with gold, and with silk stripes; the costliest of all, produced at Hyderabad, are very striking in appearance, having wavy stripes of
:
Uf**'".'
'
the French term obtained from a species of fig tree, or Ficiis elastica, a native of the East Indies. Besides other uses to which it is applied, India rubber is introduced into
"^M
'.,,^^^
''l^^^^M
many ounces. India Rubber.— Otherwise known by
scarcely weigh as
Caoutchouc, a
gum
which are thereby made waterproof and When elastic materials are manufactured, such as bands, garters, and braces, and cloth from which "spring-sides" of boots are made, the warp only is composed of India rubber. Both silk and cotton cloth are now produced in all colours, and shot on each side, waterproofed with India rubber, and having a beautiful lustre. See Elastic Textiles and Webbing. articles of wear-,
into surgical bandages.
;
Hollow Leaf in Fig. Hang on ten pairs of Bobbins and two
497
and white, combined with gold. Silk stufl', manufactured for trousering, is produced of the very slightest texture, 9 yards of which would rich yellow, pink,
:
Gimps
at
ing begins. Fig. 497.
liNNER
Pearl with a Gimp.
the tip
of
and work in Cloth Stitch to the place where the openieni,
Work
to
the centre of the row, stick a pin in the top
of Gimps round it, twist the two pairs make a stitch about the pin, and work first down one side of the opening and then down the other. The inside stitch is the Inner Pearl, and is made hole,
of
hang on a pair
RuNNEES
Work
twice,
to the inner Gimp, pass it through the pair, Runners six times, stick a pin, pass the Gimp through again, and work back. When both sides are finished all but the lowest hole, the two runner pairs will
thus
:
twist the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. meet in the middle, make a stitcli, stick a pia, tie the Gimps, cut them off, and let one of tlie Runner pair of Bobbins merge into the Hangers, or Passive Bobbins, and finish the leaf in Cloth Stitch. The remainder of the pattern is worked with the circle in Raised Woekwith six pairs of Bobbins, and the closed leaf in Half Stitch. To work the Inner Pearl without a Gimp, as shown in Fig. 498 (page 271), in the Butterfly's Wing Work the body, beginning at the tail, with five pairs of Bobbins and two
mings
of
271
any description were not required, and would have
obtained no sale had they been produced. When Charles I. repealed the dress enactments, English fashions, with their profuse lace decorations, were assumed, and the want of a cheap native lace was felt by all to whom expensive foreign laces were unattainable; but no effort to establish
a manufactory was made until 1731, when the Dublin Society founded a school, which was, however, dissolved
when that
foui- pairs each, which tie up and cut off. Hang on six pairs of Bobbins at the body, work up the upper wing, there hang on four pairs, come back with Cloth Stitch, and work the Inner
society ceased in 1774. In 1820, Carrickmacross Lace was made from Italian patterns. In 1829, a school was opened at Limerick for Limerick Lace; but it was not until the great famine years (1846 to 1818) that any real attempt to make lace a general production was commenced. In those years, by the exertions of ladies and the Government, lace schools were opened in various parts of the country, and the fine Irish Point an imitation was commenced at the Cun-agh of Brussels Applique schools. Limerick Lace, Irish Point, and the fine Crochet
Pearl as directed in the previous pattern. At the bottom cut off
imitations of old Points, are the lices that have attained the greatest celebrity as Irish productions but, besides
but six pairs of Bobbins, work Stem from the lowest part of the other wing for seven holes, then hang on a pair of Bobbins at each hole for four holes, which are not worked in, but When the point of junction with the lie back by the pins.
these,
reached make a Sewing, work straight across in Cloth Stitch, bringing in the added pairs left at tlie pins twist each of these twelve times.
all of
:
Gimps. Out off the Gimps at the head of the butterfly, hang on three more pairs of Bobbins, and work the antennae with
;
all
other leaf
is
:
—
Insertion. In reference to textiles, this term is employed to denote strips of lace, or embroidered muslin, or cambric, having the edges on each side alike, and a plain portion of the material outside the work, by which it can be sewn to a garment, collar, or cuff on one side, and to the plain part of the lace, or muslin edging, or border, on the other. It is also much employed for infants' bodises an.i robes, being inserted in parallel stripes between portions It is of the dress material, whence the nanre is derived. always worked on the straight way of the stuff, and is called in French Eiitve-deiix. Insertions are likewise made in Crochet Work and Tatting, as also by moans of Tape and Braid, and worked in silk and cotton, as an openwork decorative connection between two pieces of material.
this
—A
linen cloth as fine as French by the yard, and handkerchiefs of material can bo had with grass-pattern borders,
Irish.
Cambric.
Cambric. It
is
sold
broad tape hems, or Irish.
Suchs.
hem
stitched.
—A linen textile of stout make, in white,
unbleached, and black, blue, brown,
—
—
olive,
and grey.
It is
used for labourers' blouses.
—
Irish ]Lace. Lacemaking in Ireland has only within the last fifty years become the industry of the people, and the laces produced are none of them national, but are all copies of those worked in other countries. Until the time of Charles I. the Irish clung to their national costume,
and as
this
consisted of a large three-cornered cloak, thickly-plaited vest, knitted trousers, and plain skull cap for the men, and
women's dresses of the same simple pattern,
lace trim-
of
other laces are worked,
especially Irish Guipure, or Carrickmacross Point, Jesuit,
Spanish, Venetian and Rose Point, Pearl Tatting, Knotted and Lifted Guipure, Black and White Maltese, silver, black,
and white Blondes, and wire ground Valenciennes, which command a certain price.
Limerich Lace
is
Run, and Applique.
Tambour
Brussels net in a in linos of
and
three descriptions
of
To work
Tambour
—Tambour,
:
Frame the
frame, and work the pattern
a
To work the Run Lace
and work the pattern
net,
the
Chain Stitch made with
floss thread.
in
Run
:
Tambour needle Frame Brussels
lines with a point
To work the Applique net over net, work out the
needle and fine linen thread.
Lay Cambric
over net, or
by overcasting the lines of the pattern, cut away the background of the upper material, and allow the foundation material to show through as the background design
to the design.
Irish Point.
Lace, but
—This
its chief
lace is sometimes called
manufacture
is
Curragh
at Youghal, where
it is
taught in the schools attached to the convent, besides being made at New Ross, Kenmare, Killaruey, Kinsale, Clonakilty, and Waterford. The best Youghal Irish Point is made with a needle, Reseau ground, and flower and Arabesque designs, copied from Brussels Point Lace, and filled with fine and well-arranged Point Lace stitches. Another kind consists of working with the needle detached joining these together with Corded fiowor sprays,
and cutting away To work Trace out the design as a whole upon a piece of blue paper, and each leaf or spray separately upon patent cloth or parchment. Prick these small patterns round their outlines with two holes close together, a slight space left, and two more holes close together, with great regularity, and commence to work with 250 eight-fold lace thread. Over Bars, attaching
them
that foundation where
Irish Guipure.— See Irish Lace.
in spite of the laws forbidding its adoption;
numerous imitations
to Brussels net, it is
not required.
:
the outline of a flower or leaf lay several strands of fine thread or a thin cord, and attach this to the pattern by
CoucHiNa first
it
down.
Bring up the needle through the
pinhole on the outside of the flower, pass
it
over the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
272 thi'eads,
and put
it
down
the whole of the outline
commence are the
to
fill
in the second pinhole.
down
to the pattern,
in the stitches.
same needle
The
stitches
Catch
and then employed
stitches used in old needle-made laces
Modern Point lace. Worl; the light fillings with Point de Beuxelles and its varieties, and with Barcelona Lace and Point de Venise and the thicker with Point None. Having worked the fillings, go over the outline with fine even rows of Buttonhole, and ornament this Coedonnet with Loops and Picots, and work over all stalks, veins, and tendrils with fine Buttonand
in
;
hole lines.
These Buttonhole
lines require great care
the thread, while making them, must not take up any of the tacking threads or the parchment, and the stitches
Fig.
499.
C AEEIC
the
Reseau
groiind with the needle. This real ground add
worked and tacked together. two descriptions, an Applique and a Guipure. The Applique is worked upon net like that made at Limerick, but the designs are better and more elaborate. The Guipure is illustrated in Fig. 499. This is really a description of Embroidery, and is worked as follows Take the very finest mulled muslin or fine lawn, trace the design upon it, and lay it upon Toile Cire. Run a thread round all the outlines, and Overcast after the separate sprays are
Carrickmacross Lace.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Of
:
this thread over very closely; cut flowers,
Wheels Modern
Buttonhole
away the centres of the fill them with the same as are used in with a Honeycomb net,
these round, and
and fine open stitches, Point, or fill them in
KMACEOSS GUIPUEE LACE.
must be worked with a uniform regularity. When the detaclxed pieces are made, unpick them from their patterns by cutting the tacking threads at the back of the pattern, and pulling out every thread singly. Lay all the detached pieces, face downwards, upon the complete design, and tack them to it, then connect them together with Corded or Buttonhole Bars. If the Bars are only Corded, lay fine cream-coloured Brussels Net over the sprays, and attach this to them by Oveecasting into every other pinhole in the outer edge of the sprays. Cut away the net, and Overcast the edges where the fancy fillings occur in the sprays, and finish the outer edge with a line of Buttonhole ornamented with Picots. Work the best Ii-ish Point entii-ely aa old Brussels needle point, and form
and
Barn
in and out of this, so as to form an open Connect the various detached piarts of the pattern together with a number of Buttonhole Bars, which freely ornament with Picots. Unpick the work from the Toile Cire, and, with a very fine and sharp pair pattern.
of scissors, cut the material
away
close to the Overcast, so
This lace will not stand hard wear, and should be cleaned, not washed, as the edges are only Overcast and not Buttonholed, as its lightness and beauty would be impaired by the thick edge a Buttonhole as to leave an open ground.
line would give. and Shamrock.
The patterns most worked are the Rose
Irish Crochet.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This
is
an imitation of the Guipure
points of Spain, Greece, and Yenice.
Its reputation aa
01
< I
UJ a:
< 1
ITALIAN PILLOW BRAID LACE.
Q Z 3 o o
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. The Knotted,
Jesuit, Lifted,
an Irisli Lace and Greek Guipures are all imitated with fine crocliet. Irish Linen. This linen, being so much superior to that manufactured elsewhere, is inquired for in the shops by the name of Irish. The evenness of the threads, the softness of the texture, and the gloss of the surface, are is universal.
—
said to be partly attributable to the quality of the flax grown in Ireland. The principal seats of the industry are
and Londonderry. See Linen. Irish Point Crochet. This Crochet is worked in imitation of the early Spanish Guipures, and is also known as Honiton Crochet. See Oeochet. Irish Stitch.— Sec Berlin "Work. The beautiful white Embroidery Irish Work. at Belfast, Carrickfergus,
—
—
executed in Ireland is illustrated in Fig. 500, but does not differ from the white Embroideries manufactured in Saxony, Madeira, and Scotland. The peasantry of Ireland have obtained a well-deserved reputation for the excellence of the work produced by them, which is as remarkable for the delicacy of its execution as for the beauty of its designs.
Irish
work
done npou
is
fine cambric, linen, or
muslin, and the stitches nsed are Flat and Raised Satin,
Fig. 500.
BOEDEK
French Knots, Overcast, and Dot. The work is principally made with flat and raised Satin Stitches, relieved by the others named; the open parts are formed with Eyelet-holes, but these are never large or numerous, thus distinguishing Irish Work from Broderie Anglaise, where they form the chief part of the design. To work Fig. 500 Trace the design upon fine cambric, and back it with Toile Circ. Work the round balls in Overcast, the leaves in Raised Satin Stitch, the stems in Rope Stitch, the flowers in Raised Satin Stitch, with French Knots for their centres and Dots, surrounded with fine :
;
Overcast, for the outside leaves.
—
Ironing. Embroidery worked over the hand, and not Frame, requires to be stretched when completed, if at
in a
all jjuckered.
to the
The
process of finishing differs according
work.
Emhroidery upon Silk or Satin requires two people material. Take a hot iron, and hold it with the flat end uppermost; cover it with a damp handkerchief, and, as the steam rises, pass the Embroidery over the iron, with the wrong side downwards. Stretch it firmly while drawing it across the iron, and be careful not to make any creases. to
stretch the
273
For Crewel Worh upon Cloth or Serr/e : Make an open wooden frame with four pieces of wood, damp the material, stretch it into the frame, and, while damp, iron it carefully upon the wrong side. If ironed over a solid frame tlie work becomes flattened. For Crewel Work upon Linen: Damp and pin out the work until dry upon a drawing-board. For Woolwork Damp the work upon the wrong side, stretch it, and firmly pin it down upon a drawingboard, with the wrong side uppermost. Pass a warm iron :
over the surface, then rub a into .the back of the work,
little
Embroidery Paste
and leave on the board imtU
quite dry.
—
Isle of Man Lace. The lace really made in the Isle Man during the last century was a Pillow-made edging lace, resembling Valenciennes in design and ground; but of
much lace was conveyed from that island into England, under the name of Isle of Man lace, that was smuggled over from the Continent, as, during the time that foreign laces wei-e forbidden importation into England, the Isle of Man was one of the chief smuggling depots. The real Isle of Man Lace was of no value, and is no longer made.
IN IRISH WORK. Isle of Wight Lace.— During the last centuiy a Pillow Lace was made in the island resembling that
made
in Wiltshire
now
has
a
it
disappeared, the lace now known Wight Lace being made upon machine net.
as Isle of It is
and along the South Coast; but
entirely
Run
resembling some of the Northampno particular value, but, being a native industry, some articles composed of it were worn by the Princess Royal at her first presentation. To work Run the chief part of the design with fine lace thread, until quite thick, then form the outline by doubling the thread and running it round the close portions of the
ton
Run
lace,
laces.
It is of
:
Make Open
by Darning the net in and ornament the net ground with single Dots or Diamonds, made with four Dots together, and formed with Overcast and pattern.
various designs, to
Run
Fillings,
imitate lace filhngs,
lines.
The name
of Isle of
Wight Lace
is
sometimes given to
Tatting worked in large pieces.
Italian Cloth.
— Otherwise
called Venetian Cloth.
A
and dyed black. It is employed for women's petticoats, and as linings for men's coats. It measm'es I yard in width. description of linen jean, satin woven,
N N
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
274
ItaUan Darned Netting.
—This kind of lace
is
known
Pimto Maglia and Lacis by the Italians, and was one of the first kinds of lace made. It was worked all over Italy during the sixteenth century, although some authorities declare that it was for some time only worked at Sienna, and was called Sienna Point for that reason. The lace is made like other Darned Laces, ni^on a Netted Eotindation, and is revived in our modern Guipure d'Art. To work as
:
Net
a foundation of plain square meshes, which slightly starch and stretch in a Frame, and work upon that a
Dakning
in and out of tlie and others only partially. The stitches nsed are the same as those illustrated in GciPTTEE d'Aet; but to imitate the old Italian Laces do not work more than two or three different stitches in one
design formed by thickly meshes,
some
filling
See
design.
in entirely,
GuiprEE d'Aet.
Italian Ferrets.
—A
kind of
silk
white, black, blue, scarlet, crimson,
galloon,
and other
made
in
colours, of
one width only. Four pieces, of 36 yards each, to the gross. It is used for binding dressing govnis and flannels.
Ground.
Italian
— This
Lace ground was is composed
Pillow
anciently used in Italian coarse laces, and of hexagons, having all the sides equal.
in the
Poppy and Bryony
design, as
It
is
illustrated
worked for Honiton
Lace, the
real stitch being slightly different, the altera-
tion being
made on account of the fine thread required for To work for Honiton Lace Begin at the left-
Honiton.
of conjecture however, there is no doubt that Italy produced good needle laces in the fifteenth century, and in the sixteenth the art was almost univerThe great luxury of the sally practised in her convents.
must remain a matter
;
Venetian and other Republican States, and the pomp and magnificence attending upon the Romish ritual, fostered the production of the most costly Needle Points, until
they were superseded by the newer Belgian a,nd French manufactures, when the art of making them gradually died out. The earliest laces made in Italy were the Outwork,
Darned Laces and Drawn Work,
also the gold
and
silver
the fine Needle Points and the Raised Needle Points made at Venice, the Reseau grounded Needle laces made at Milan and Burano, and the Knotted laces, and, beside
and Pillow Laces of Genoa. The making of Pillow Lace spread all over Italy, and what are known as Guipure and Tape Laces are all classed under the heading of Italian Lace. This description of Italian Pillow Lace is illustrated in Fig. 501, where the pattern is formed with a thick Braid, ornamented with a Pearl Edge. The Braid is lightened with a number of devices formed upon it by various shaped holes, made by working Pinholes, while Oeinkle Plaitings and Diamond Fillings fill in the
The Brides uniting the
centre of the thick outlines.
various parts of the pattern together are formed with thickly plaited plain Baes. For description of Genoese
Knotted Laces,
sec
Maceame, and
for Milan
and Venetian
:
hand side of the place to be filled, and fasten on four pairs of Bobbins, and work a Plait right and left as far as the two holes below stick a pin there temporarily to hold the Bobbins, fasten on four more at the tip of a leaf, and Plait right and left as before. The Plait first made will meet the left-hand one of the second set. The Bobbins are now dealt with in pairs, and not as single threads. Take out
Laces, their several headings.
—
Italian PnntO. The Italian name for Italian lace. Italian Punto ^ Groppo.— The modern Maceame
;
(which
sec).
Italian
Stitch.
—A
Holbein
Couching.
the pin put in temijorarily, pass the middle left-hand pair over the middle right-hand pair, stick in the pin again
between them
;
twist each pair to a fine strand, and, with
these four strands,
make a
Plait
down the
straight side
name
Stitch
is
applied
erroneously
sometimes so
to
called.
J. Jabots.— A French a description of
term, originally employed to signify
frilling, or rufiles,
decorating the front of
of the hexagon, stick a pin in the hole at the bottom, un-
a shirt.
and make a Plait right and left as before. Return to the border, fasten on four more pairs, and bring a fresh line of Plaits down in the same manner; there will be no difference in the size of the Plaits if the strands are firmly twisted. The stitch when made in coarse thread is as follows Put the middle left-hand Bobbin over the
the full decorative frilling of lace worn on the front of a
twist the threads,
:
middle right-hand one, give both pairs one twist to the left, and repeat. When the right and middle lines meet, twist the strands, put the middle left strand over the middle right, stick a pin to hold them, then work with the twisted strands in the same stitch as before. This manner of making Italian ground, when done with fine thread, makes the hexagons small and close.
Italian
Iiace.
—Italy
is
as
making as Belgium, and good
celebrated for its
lace-
was produced in the period than in Flanders.
lace
former country at a much earlier The Italian needle-made laces, particularly those of Venice and Milan, are of great value and unrivalled beauty. Italy asserts her claim to the invention of Needle Points, although Greece and Spain also lay claim to its production; but which of these nations first invented Needle Point
It is
much
now
applied by dressmakers and milliners to
same style as those originally so worn by men. JacoVs Ladder.— See Knitting. Jacconet. A thin, yet close, cotton textile, of a quality between muslin and cambric, being thicker than the former and slighter than the latter. The name is derived from Jaghernout, the district in India where the manu-
bodice,
named, and
in the
first
—
facture originated.
It is the thickest of the soft muslins
employed for making dresses and neck cloths, and other Nainsook is a variety of articles of infants' clothing, etc. Jacconet, of a thicker make. There are also glazed Jacconets, which are dyed in various colours, the thick glazed finish being on one side. Much of this description of cloth The width ranges from about 30 is made in France. inches to a yard.
—
The finest and most beautiful variety Jamdanee. amongst the Indian loom figured muslins, produced in the Deccan. Their designs are so complicated, and their texture so delicate, that they are more costly than any others of Indian manufacture. See Indian Muslins.
Fia.
501.
ITALIAN PILLOW LACE.
N N
2
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
276
Janus Cord. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The
named is a description made for women's
material so
of Rep, composed of wool
and
cotton,
and, being a black material, is peculiarly well It is a specialty of a large bouse of and the fine cord runbusiness. The width is 30 inches dresses,
suited for mourning.
;
ning through shows equally on both sides, so that there no right or wrong side to the material.
Japanese Emlsroidery.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; We
are
is
indebted to the
opening np of the islands of Japan to Europeans for the introduction into this country of some of the most curious and elaborate achievements in the way of needlework ever produced. Tlie cradle of Embroidery was in the East, and, in the earliest times, tbat wrought at Babylon excited the admiration of the Egyptians, Hebrews, and Greeks but there are few people who have realised that, ;
during the centuries succeeding Alexander's Eastern conquests, in a remote and seemingly barbarous kingdom. Embroidery was executed of the highest class, while the art in Europe was passing through the stage of its first acquirement,
its
period of excellence, and
its final
decay,
only within the last few years, and mainly from it from the East, that the craft has been rescued from oblivion. Because the work executed in Japan is in general good, it does not follow
for
it is
the stimulus again given to
that all is; or that it should be copied by us imtil we Like all Eastern imderstaud the reason of its design. work, much of it is symbolical, and should be reproduced only in its spirit, as many pieces that seem to us grotesque
and unsightly are merely truthful enough representations of some old religious legend, quite out of place for English home use. It is the spirit in which the work is done, the originality and force of the designs, and the marvellous power attained in the management of colour, combined with tbe patience and care brought to the execution, that should excite our emulation. Japanese workers are able to compete with most nations in their figure, bird, and flower designs, and in the marvellous manner they produce, with a few lines, a distant landscape or foreground object, subordinate to the centre figures; but their geometrical and conventional designs are not so good as those produced in China and India. Three descriptions of Embroidery are made in Japan. First, that upon silk and other grounds, worked with Flat Satiu Stitch in coloured silks, and with gold and silver thread second, Raised Embroidery, similar to our Emand, thirdly, the Raised Work, broidery on the stamp The comijosed of various coloured cottons and cloths. Japanese silk embi'oidery commonly seen in England is done for the English market, and is much Inferior to the work used in Japan to cover over wedding gifts when passing from one house to another, or for screens or These are all heirlooms, and their embellishment dresses. Black is rarely used as a is of tlie best description. ground in native Japanese work, pale blue, purple, scarlet, and bro^vu being preferred, as giving a softer tone to the ;
alike, and that all are in attitudes of easy while their distance from each other, and the space
no two are flight;
they are flying into, is admirably rendered by the foreshortening of the birds, and the few lines indicating the horizon and the clouds. Besides the storks, eagles and small gay-plumo.ged birds are constantly worked, and with sucli attention to plumage that almost every feather is indicated.
This fine work
is
the result of using silk threads
makes them as reThe silk web is passed round a fixed pin, doubled, stretched, and the two ends twisted together by being rolled in the palms of the hands. The cherry blossom, of so fine a texture that the worker quired.
hawthorn, acacia, and laburnum are the favourite small flowers, the double anemone, ii'is, and chi-ysanthemum the large ones of the woi'ker the colours they are worked in are true to Nature, and are all executed in Flat Satin Stitch, though occasionally the stem of a tree, reeds, or ;
other foreground objects, are worked with gold thread laid
down, two strands together, but separately Couched to tlie material. The ability of the Japanese to work figures in
shown
which represents a taken from a very ancient piece of embroidery. In this is found many curious stitches, and also the peculiarity of human hair being used for the hair of the figure, which, after being secured to the top of the head, is allowed to flow freely down the face and back, being looped under the head-dress, and the ends left free. To work Make the face in flesh-coloured silk, and all the wrinkles and liues with slightly raised parts indicate the features by black silk lines, the eyeballs white, and the hair white. Work the face in Satih Stitch, arranging the lines, as the shading indicates, across the face. Form the head-di'ess with lines of laid gold thread, also the bow behind the ear, and the piece hanging down the back. Make the upper dress with lines of gold-coloured floss silk laid downwards, and then caught at stated intervals with three lines of silk of the same colour, which arrange to form the pattern; make the wavy lines down the
silk is
in Fig. 502 (page 277),
female sweeper, and
is
:
;
garment in the same
colour,
and work
collar
and
sleeves
with gold thread; make the under dress with pale blue floss silk, with gold thread stitched round it with scarlet silk. Silver thread and small white silk Knots form the edging below the sleeve. Work the hands and feet like the face, and make the broom with gold tlireads. Couched
down with yellow silk. Fasten the threads used, either in beginning or finishing, in the front.
;
design.
The
stork
constantly depicted
;
is
the sacred bird, and, as such, is generally worked with white silk
it is
shading to grey and black silks, and with pink legs but it made with gold thread. In a flight of storks across a screen, it wUl be found that, however great their number, ;
is also
The Embroidery upon the Stamp
is
large animals, such as dragons, tigers, sented,
and largo
fish
and birds
when various Japanese
;
deities,
fierceness, are delineated.
but
chiefly
and it
is
used when
lions, arc repre-
also
in all their
employed grotesque
All the leading muscles and
contours of the object represented are padded to a great height with raw cotton, and glass eyes are inserted into the figure.
All the padding
is
then covered with lines of gold
thread Couched down, and these lines are so arranged that they follow the true natural lines of the figures, while the raised parts give the effect of light and shade. Flat parts are generally worked in brightly coloured floss silk,
but sometimes the whole design
gold or silver thread.
is
execvited with
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
277
Raised figures covered with coloured cotton or cashmere are a peculiarity of Japanese art, and have an extremely curious eifect. The subjects chosen are illustrations of the mythological fables of the country, or scenes from
person in reality. The faces are painted and raised, and have much the same look as those of the best rag dolls; but the hair and moustaches are real, the hair of the women being ornamented with raised haii-pins and combs.
Japanese everyday life a "whole screen will be covered with these raised figures engaged in all the varieties of
Every garment
;
Fia. 502.
worked in Flat Satin Stitch in coloured silks. The raised figures are managed by filling out, until quite prominent, all the contours of the figure with waste cotton, and then covering this over with clothes
made
distinct from the figure where it would and any iniplementa held in the hand
is
life,
JAPANESE EMBEOIDEEY
Japanese labour, and with the sun-oundings and landscapes
linen, or coloured materials,
be in real
of white or coloured
such as would be worn by the
from the sui'face. This kind of Japanese work cannot well be copied by Eui'opeans, as it would lose all its quaiutness in any other dress but much can be learnt from their Silk "S^ork, and from the spirited and elegant designs for which they are so justly are almost detached
;
celebrated.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
378
Japanese Native Cloth.
—A very narrow, and
plain made, and undressed for the originally designed fine,
borders, but sold
for
kinds.
ratter
14 inches in -width, embroidery of curtain
clotli,
articles of
fancy work of various
—
Japanese Silks. These silk stufEs are produced in three descriptions of dress material, of more or less degrees " double warp gros of thickness respectively. There is the grain," which
in all colours, both
may be had
dark and
These are all 22 inches in width, and are softer in quality than those of a plain make. The Damasse Japanese, which has apparently as much substance in them, but is not so soft, has a rather small floral design, which covers the ground of the silk vei-y closely. It may be had in many varieties of colour, both dark and very delicate light
light,
tints.
and measures 19 inches
The
in width.
plain
made
but vary in thickness. but one kind, which is described as leather made," is stouter than the rest, is 45 inches in width, and is produced iu a silverygrey colour, of which the black warp is soft, and the grey
Japanese
They
silks are slight in ciuality,
are, for the
most
part, 20 inches in width
;
'•'
may
be had in a great number of colours, both dark and light—the latter in very delicate tints— and are almost transparent in quality. The stiffness of the woof of this description of silk is such
woof
is stiff.
The
slighter kinds
has the great disadvantage of creasing. Japanese Stitch. See Embeoidery Stitches.
that
it
—
Java Canvas. —A
close
make of canvas, having the and made in many sizes and
appearance of being plaited, degrees of fineness. Some kinds are white, some yellow, and some like fine Berlin canvas. Java Canvas is employed in the
See Canvas.
new Kreuzsticherie.
Java Canvas Work. —This Embroidery
the material upon which
it
is
worked, and
The Embroidery upon the Canvas
with wools,
silks,
is
such as is used for Berlin patterns. Count the squares used in the Point Paper for the design, see that the threads of the Java Canvas correspond, and then copy the pattern upon it, using deep rose colour, dark green, orange,
Make the Cross Stitches of one and the Satin Stitch rays of it of orange, and work the nest figui'e in blue and ciimson. Diversify the design by altering the colours. When the work is finished, edge it by sewing doubled ribbon round the edge of the canvas to keep it from fraying out. and bright blue
named from is
used for
worked either
or filoselles, and the stitches used are Elat
silk.
figure of dark green,
Jean.
—A twilled
cotton cloth, or species of fustian, of
thick and strong make, to be had both plain and iu stripes,
and in single
colours.
Satin Jeans, or sateens, are of a
superior quality to ordinary Jean, having a smooth glossy
and being made after the manner of satin. These are much employed for stays, belts, waistThe " Laces of Jeane," coats, and for shoes and boots. and " Lace of Jeane Silk," of which mention is made in Mediaeval documents, denoted " Laces " of Genoa although a common matei'ial, described as "Whitt Jeanes," and " Jeanes Fustian" (which seems to have been employed for stockings), was in use iu the fourteenth and fifteenth surface,
lattei' varieties
;
centuries.
Jeanette.
— A variety of jean, coarser in quality, yet not Some
so closely woven.
finished
Jeanettes are twilled, and have a
These
surface like sateen.
employed as
textiles are chiefly
linings.
Jennet Fur (Genet).
—This
designation
is
applied to
cat skins, dyed, and carefully prepared so as not to betray their
is
mats, work cases, music cases, and for any description of article that requires a pliable, yet moderately stiff, foundation.
evenly woven Java Canvas, of as pale a colour as procui-and have the design marked out upon Point Paper,
able,
common
of their fnr,
fed on
The best animals are the Dutch The former are reared for the sake treated with much consideration, and
origin.
and the Ba^'arian. ai'c
until the coat
fish,
is
in a state of the highest
also collected in England The wild cat {Felis ccdiis) is much larger, is longer in its fur, and is chiefly met with in the extensive forests of Hungary. The colour is brownishgrey, mottled and spotted with black. The softness and
perfection.
and other
Large numbers are
countries.
durability of the fur renders it very suitable for cloak It is also made into wrappers ior open carriages and railway rugs. The real Jennet Fur is that of the Civet cat, and is very pretty. It has a dark ground, variegated with narrow stripes and spots of yellowishwhite. The skin measures 12 inches by 4 inches. Jersey. The finest portion of wool separated from the rest is so designated also fine woollen yarn and combed wool. Jersey and Guernsey are names likewise given to woven, close-fitting vests of coarse wool, worn by sailors and fishermen in lieu of jackets, or under their pea-jackets and waterproof blouses. The names of these vests have reference to their origin in the Channel Islands. As a boating costume, and one adapted for athletic and other sports, it has been long adopted by gentlemen, only the materials are of a finer quality, and woven in stripes of different colours as white and blue, white and pink, &,c. These vests have also been adopted by women usually young ones and were woven entire at first, and afterwards made of what ia called Elastic Cloth, or linings.
—
;
Fia. 503,
Java Canvas 'Work,
Satin, French Knots, Point de Riz, Cross Stitch, and other Embroidery Stitches. The patterns executed are all simple geometrical designs, worked in large open stitches over the canvas, which is left ^'isible in most places, as, from its stiff nature, it would be great trouble to fill it up with Embroidery, and, being in itself ornamental, it does not require concealment. To work Fig. 503 Select a well and :
—
—
—
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. "
Stockingette " (which
woollen yarn, of
see),
and
also in silk, cotton,
and
many
degrees of fineness, and sold at H.R.H. the Princess of Wales introduced
varying prices. the fashion as a yachting costume. first ii3
is
cotton, flax, tow, its
and wool.
natural state, but
colours,
and
it is
279 It is fur the
most part used in dyed in various
also bleached,
finished.
These Jerseys were manufactured by a firm in the Isle uf Wight. What
commonly known
Jesuit Xace, with Crochet.
Jetted Lace.
—A
Guipure lace imitated in Ireland
—This
work makes a useful trimming,
made
at a compara-
composed of black machine lace, bugles of an equal size, and black sewing silk, and can be worked in two ways, first, by entirely covering the pattern, and only leaving the groulid visible secondly, with lines of bugles marking out the principal lines of the lace. To work thickly, select a coarse lace, with a tliick, prominent pattern. Cover this pattern with bugles, sewn on with the black silk, and arrange them so as to follow the curves and lines of the lace tbey cover up. To work leaving the lace visible Select cither a Chantilly Blonde or Maltese Silk Guipure Lace, of a bold and flowing design, and sew the bugles separately along the centre of every part of the design; work a Back Stitch after every fourth bugle, to keep the bugles from getting out of place. Cover entirely over with bugles any rosette, or small flower parts of the pattern, and double the line of bugles where the design will be improved by so doing. Joining. »Se«; Crochet, Knitting, and Tatting. Join Threads.— See Macbamb. Josephine Knot. This knot is used to join two pieces of thread together, where both the ends are afterwards small cost.
It
is
;
:
—
—
required for use.
Bend, and (which
is
It is
known to nautical men
illustrated
as a Carrick
under the heading of Knots
Bce).
Jours.
—A term used by lacemakers to denote
stitches that
Jupe.
the open form the Fillings in Needle and Pillow Laces.
—A French term signifying the skirt of a dress, a
petticoat skirt being distinguished
from
it
by the name of
Jupon.
Jute.—The
Kangaroo Fur. —The Kangaroo
is a ruminating margenus Macropus, and is a native of Australia and the adjacent islands. Kangaroo skins vary in size; those of the so-called "Foresters" are of considerable proportions, the animals being from 7 feet to 74 feet in height. The fur is somewhat similar in colour and quality to that of the raccoon, though not so handsome nor valuable. It is much employed in Australia for articles of dress, and fetches a good price.
supial animal, of the
and, though expensive to buy, can be tively
K.
as Jersey Cloth (or Elastic Cloth)
30 inches in width.
silky fibres
growing underneath the bark of
the two plants, Chonch and Corchonis, which are extensively cultivated in Bengal, but common, here and there,
Coarse cloths have all over India, Ceylon, and China. been manufactured from it for centuries, as well as sacking and cordage. Indian Jute is first cleaned, and then pressed into bales, each containing 3001b., for exportaIt was introduced into this country tion to Enropc. rather more than forty years ago, the chief seat of home mannfacture being at Dundee; it is also manufactured in London, Manchester, and Glasgow. It is likeOur home wise iitilised in Prance and the United States.
manufactures consist of canvas, carpeting, cording, Ducks, Hessians, sacking, sailcloth, and sheetings.
—
Besides the
manufacture of these cloths to make some of which, as in the carpet manufacture, it is used in conjunction with cocoa fibres Jute is likewise extensively employed in the adulteration of silk stuffs, which, owing to its great Many other unions are lustre, it greatly resembles. formed in connection with Jute by its incorporation with
—
Kashgar
Cloth.
Cloth (which Kerchief.
— Synonymous
— SeeHANDKEECHiEF.
the Highland
Camel Haik
with
sec).
women
According to Martin, on
in ancient times wore nothing
their heads until after marriage,
when they
invariably put
on a head-dress formed of a handkerchief of fine linen which was tied under the chin, and was called a Curtch. Hir coTerchiefs weren I dorse
full fine of
ground,
sware thoy weyden a pound,
That on the Sonday were upon
hir hede.
Chaucer (1328—1400).
Kersey. Say, the
—According to Booth, Kersey
name being a compound
—
is
double-twilled
Danish and Swedish cross; because Tweeling is of
Kersing and the Scotch Kors so as to have the appearance of lines of plaited threads, running diagonally across the web. Kersey is a kind of coarse,narrow, woollen cloth, woven from long wool, and usually ribbed. Sometimes, however, it used to be made of a finer quality. In Stafford's " Briefe Conceipte of English Policye," 1-518, he speaks of the vanity of servingmen, who would have their " hosen of the finest Kersey and that of some strange dye, as Flanders dye or French puce. " According to Blanche, many descriptions of Kerseys are mentioned in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Edward VI., "varying according to the texture in length, breadth, and weight of the piece, which was strictly regulated by Statutes." There were the " ordinary Kerseys,
woven
Kerseys, Devonshire Kerseys (called washers,' wash-whites '), Check Kerseys, Kerseys called dozens,'
sorting or
'
and Kerseys
'
'
called
Kerseymere.
'
straits.'
"
— A twilled, fine woollen clothof a peculiar
warp being always above, and twoIt is of two thicknesses, single and double milled, being reduced in width by the process of milling from oi inches or 36 inches to 27 inches. The name is derived from It is thin, light, and pliable. the locality of the original mannfacture, on the " mere " or brook which runs through the village of Kersey in Sufl:olk. We learn from Stow that "about the year 1505 began the making of Devonshire kersies and corall clothes." Kerseymeres must be tested by their feeling in the hand, and by a close inspection. If of good quality, they are more texture, one-third of the
thirds below each shoot of weft.
durable than plain cloths.
Kid Skin (Leather). — The
best kid skins employed ia
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
28o
the manufacture of gloves are collected from the south of
France.
They
from Ireland, Germany, Those exported from Ireland are
are also imported
Switzerland, and Italy.
much
esteemed. As soon as the kid ceases to be nourished on milk only, the fineness and delicacy of the skin becomes deteriorated, and it is rendered unsuitable for the best gloves. The French dyers of kid gloves have produced between ninety and one hundred different shades of colour. See Gloves. Kilting, A term employed in dressmaking to denote an arrangement of flat single plaits, or pleats, placed closely side by side, so that the double edge of the plait on the upper side shall lie half over the preceding one on the inside, each showing about 1 inch and hiding 1 inch. The arrangement is precisely that of the short
—
worn by Scotchmen as a part of their national costume, and whence the term Kilting is derived. It must always be made on the straight way of the material.
petticoat
—
Kilting Machine. An appliance used for the purrpose of both Kilting with more perfect regularity, and greater speed, than in working by hand. Under the
name
of " Accordian," whole skirts of fine machine-kiltiug
may be had; Tulle,
as well as Trimmings, in
and dress
Ruchiugs
of
Net
stuffs.
(Kinca\iT3). — hn
Indian textile fabric of and sometimes embroidered with gold or silver. It is used for both male and female dress, and is sometimes very costly. It is chiefly manufactured at Ahmedabad, Benares, and Trichinopoly, and is produced in several varieties. In some the
KincoT) or
muslin, gauze, or
silk
silk,
woven
in various ways,
predominates, and in others the silver or gold.
Tunics
made of this material, and it is much employed for women's skirts, for which latter purpose, were the petticoat of moderate length, the price would vary from £3 to £5 sterling. for men's wear are
Kirriemure Twill. — A
fine twilled linen cloth,
named
town where it is manufactured, in Forfarshire. employed for purposes of Embroidery. Knickerbocker. A species of Linsey cloth, manufactured for women's dresses, having a rough surface on the right side, composed of what appear like small knots
after the It is
—
They
in the yarn.
without any design
are of variegated colours, speckled, yet ;
and
also to be
had
in grey, black,
and
white.
—
Knitting. The art of Knitting was imknown in England until the sixteenth century, but before that time The tradition in it was practised both in Italy and Spain. the Shetland Isles is, that it was first introduced there when the Spanish Armada was dispersed, the ship belonging to the Duke of Medina Sidonia being wrecked at Fair Isle, and the rescued sailors teaching Knitting to the inhabitants and that from those islands it was imported But before that date knitted into Scotland and England. Bilk stockings had been presented to Edward VI., from Spain, and some stockings had been made in England. The Scots claim the invention of Knitting, because the ;
Knitting Guild, founded in Paris, took for their patron saint, St. Fiacre, the son of a Scotch King. Knitting obtained an unenviable notoriety in the time of the first
great French Revolution, fi-om the practice of the Parisian
women, when viewing the executions in the Place de la Concorde, of Knitting, and as each head fell from the guillotine, of counting the number as if they were counting their Knitting stitches. The best knitters on the Continent are undoubtedly the Germans and Poles, but the art is universally practised, and even in Turkey the scarlet fezes are knitted, and then blocked, dyed, and made to resemble cloth. The Pyrenean Knitting executed in the Bas Pyrenees is justly celebrated for its lightness, and also for the diversity of colours used in
it
;
but no Knitting exceeds in beauty of texture that
made in Shetland, at Unst. The wool from which this is made is obtained from sheep which resemble those in
the
mountains
of
Thibet, and
is
of
three kinds,
that from the "Mourat," a brown coloured-sheep, being the most valued, that from the " Shulah," a grey sheep,
ranking next, and the white and black varieties being the The finest wool is taken from the neck of the living animal, and is spun and prepared by the natives, and Knitted in warm shawls 2 yards square, and yet so light and fine that they are easily passed The Knitting from Fair Isle is through a wedding ring. closer in texture, and is dyed by the islanders with dyes procured from seaweeds or rag and madder wort, and the colours produced are delicate pinks, grey-blues, and soft These colours, with white, are knitted upon browns. patterns in the stockings and caps worn in Shetland, and in many cases the designs of these pattei'ns are extremely least esteemed.
good.
The word Knit is derived from the Anglo Saxon Cnittan, It is executed by and means threads woven by the hand. means of long needles or pins, formed of bone, steel, or wood; one thread only is worked, which is formed into In Straight or loops, and passed from one pin to another. in Round, four or five. Flat Knitting, two pins are used The excellence of the work is judged by its evenness and regularity, and when stitches are carelessly dropped off the ;
pins the effect of the Knitting is marred, as they cannot be raised without spoiling its appearance.
The materials used the silk used
is
are
generally
silk, wool, worsted, and cotton; Adams' or Faudell and Phillip's
Knitting silk, but silk should not be employed until the worker is somewhat experienced, as the shiny look of the silk is destroyed if unpicked or split; a piece of silver paper put over the knitted parts prevents their getting spoilt by the hands while working the rest of the pattern. Pyrenean or Shetland wool is used for fine Knitting, such as light and warm shawls and babies' socks; Eider yarn, lamb's wool, four thread-fleecy, and Andalusian for medium sized Knitting; Scotch Yarn, worsted, and fleecy wool for strong and rough Knitting and Strutt's and Ardcn's cotton for ordinary Knitting for toilet and breadcloths, and the finest Crochet cotton for d'oyleys and pincushion covers. ;
All Knitting should be worked loose enough for the pins through the stitches, but not too loose. If really worked with intelligence, there is much scope in Knitting for individual art, as, after the pi-eliminaries are
to pass easily
once understood, new shapes and designs can be invented. When the learner has thoroughly taken in that a Knit
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. a Purled; a Raised rib, stitch will make a Chain an Over; will Increase if Knitted, or, if Slipped the next time will make a hole or open stitch and that all open stitch,
;
spaces in Knitting are formed as to the size hy the number of Overs put round the pin; and that open parts can be made in the work without increasing the number of stitches on the pins or spoiling the evenness of the
work, by Knitting two stitches together instead of one, a great variety of forms and shapes will be within the
power of the Knitter to attempt. Terhs. The varioi'.s terms used
—
Knitting
in
in-
structions are as follow
— Similar to a Round (which — Similar to Pxirl (which Binding. — See Joining Togethtr. About.
Back
see).
Stitch.
Bring Forward, or Pass
the
the working thread and pass
it
end
281
of about a yard, or more, according to the numl^cr
and make a loop on the pins, hold end over the third and fourth fingers, and the thread from the ball of cotton under the thumb, pass both the threads round the little of stitches required,
them
finger
in the left hand, put the
the right hand, leaving 3 inches
of
of
thread
between the hands, and then put the thumb and first finger of the right hand, opened wide, in between the threads, twist the thread from the ball round the right thumb, and into the loop thus formed put the closed pins so as to bi'ing the loop on to the pins, twist the other round the pins with a movement of the first finger of the right hand, and draw the loop on the thumb over a stitch will thus be formed upon the it and drop it ;
see).
pins with a ribbed edge.
To Cast On with two
—
pins, as
shown
in Fi^. 505:
Thread in Front. Take between the needles to
the front of the work.
—The
manner of finishing. To work and pass the first over the second, and drop it, so that only one is left upon the needle; then Knit another stitch and pass the second made stitch over that and drop it, and continue knitting in this manner, never keeping more than one stitch upon the right-hand needle, until the whole of the stitches have been Knit and dropped. For the last stitch draw the wool through it, and sew the end down. Cast On. The manner of commencing the work, and done with either one or two pins. To Cast On with one pin, as shown in Pig. 504 Hold the knitting pin in the right hand (maikcd Al, and allow a long end of cotton to hang down, holding it in the right hand, twist that Cast
Knit two
Off.
stitches
—
:
Fig.
50.).
KNiTriKG— Cagt On with Two Tins.
Blake a loop at the end of the thread, and put it on the left-hand pin (marked C), hold the otber pin (marked D) in the right hand, and put it into the loop, pass the
thread between the pins, and bring the point of the right-hand pin in front, piass the thread throiigh the loop on the left pin; there will then bo a loop xipon each
round the thumb of the left hand (marked B), and put the pin through the loop thus made, pass the end of the cotton that is on the ball of cotton round the needle tightly, and draw the needle back through the loop to make a stitch, and then slip the cotton off the left thumb, and draw that end tight. Another way: This second plan is used chietly in Stocking Knitting, where a raised edge strengthens the work. Piit the two knitting pins together, leave an
Knittikg-Cast On witu Two Pixj.
Fib. 505.
pin, finish
hand
pin.
by slipping the right-hand loop on to the
Work
left-
in the rest of the stitches as sbowii in
Pitt the right-hand pin through the made. Knit it, and Slip the stitch from the right piin on to the left. Similar to Over (which see). (!ast Over.
Fig. 506,
thus:
stitch last
—
00
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
282
—
Crossings. Tiieso aro formed as follows: When the part where a Crossing is to be made is reached, take oH! upon a spare pin three or four of the first stitches on the left pin, and keep it to the front of the work, then Knit the next three or four stitches loosely, or Pukl
Another way Put the right pin through a stitch, and pass the thread once round the pin {see Fig. 509), then pass it again round the pin, as shown in Fig. 510, :
them; when these are knitted, Knit or Purl the stitches upon the spare needle, on the needle held in the right hand.
By
under the
so doing, the last stitches,
of the work.
Decrease.
—There
stitches first knitted are laid
which are raised above the rest are several
ways
known
of Decreasing,
Narrowing, or Takmg in; but when the word Decrease is used in the instructions without other explanations, it is understood
and the methods are
also
as
Fia. SOX
Fia. 507.
Kniiiiko -Djobi.e Siitch.
and Knit the stitch, bringing two threads through and on to the right-hand pin instead of one.
KsiTiiNG— Decrease.
it
stitches together. To Decrease see Put the right-hand needle through two stitches on the left-hand needle, and Knit them as if they were to
mean Knit two
Fio-.
507
a single
:
stitch.
Decrease
Purlimj.
ivliea
—Put the right-hand needle
through the first stitch on the left-hand pin, and draw Knit the the stitch on to the pin without Knitting it next stitch, and draw the unkuit stitch over it, and ;
let it drop.
—
Double Stitch. One of the methods of Increasing, and consisting of making two stitches out of one. To work as shown in Fig. 508 Knit a stitch, but leave it :
Fig. 510.
Dropped
Stitch.
for the purpose of
Knitting— Double Stitch.
on the left-hand needle, then briug the thread to the front of the work between the jpins, then Knit the same stitch again, putting the right-hand pin through the back part of the stitch and the thread round it at the back; return the thread to the back of the work wlicn the stitch is finished. The illustration shows the stitch Knitted once, and the thread brought to the front ready for the second part.
— Stitches are Dropped in
making open
spaces, or
Knitting
when Decreasing
but no stitch should be Drojiped unless it has been caught, and will not unravel the work. There are two ways of Dropping a stitch First way When an Increase in the Knitting has been made in one row, put the cotton round the needle (termed an Over) in the next row, slip that Over oft' th needle without being Knitted, and allow it to amalgamate into the work without fear of unravelling. Second way Slip a stitch from left to right pin without working it, Knit or Purl the next stitch, and jjass the Slipjped Stitch over the last made, and allow it to drop on to the work, it being secured by being held up by the :
Fig. 603.
Knitting— Double Stitch.
—
;
second made stitch. Dropped Stitches that are slipped off the pins without the Knitter being aware of the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
and Knit with it the first stitch upon the first pin, and draw the thread tight, and with it the third \iva, up to the first. Work several Rounds, and then Slip some of the stitches from one pin to another, so that in no place is the division of the stitches the same through all the work.
mistake must be picked up at once, or the work will be spoilt; tlieir loss is detected by the loop -which forms the The Knitting is either stitch running down the work. until the line where the loop is is reached, or if simply Plain Knitting, the stitch is picked iTp thus: Put a crochet hook through the dropped loop, stretch the Knitting out imtil every line run through is visible, and
undone
is
when
reached,
'Edije Stitch,
— The
slip it
on
to its
jsin.
stitches in straight Knitting that
begin and end the woi-k are known as the Edge Stitches. They are rarely mentioned in the instructions for Knitting patterns, but they are
added as extra stitches
;
in all cases,
as they serve to keep the Knitting straight and to form a
compact edge.
Edge
Stitches are Knitted
and Slipped
alternately.
Fasten On:
When commencing
—The instrument used
for measuring the size These ai'e usually either circular, bell-shaped, or elongated, and are made of wire or steel. In the circular Gauges the outer edges have graduated circTilar cuts through to the extreme rim, to form what look like the cogs of a wheel each hole has a number to distinguish it from its fellows, and there is a still larger Bell circular hole in the middle of the instrument. gauges are shaped like a bell, with the same arrangement of holes as the circular. In the elongated gauges the holes are within the outer i-ini, and occupying the central portion likewise. But as there are upwards of two dozen varieties, two only are illustrated in Pigs. 512 and 513. These appliances are employed by wire-drawers, and are essential to the Knitter as well as to the seller of Knitting
Gauge.
of the Knitting pins.
the loop up these lines until the last row
Chain Stitch of Knitting
28-
the Knitting, tie a
loop of the thread upon one of the needles.
Fasten Two Threads toc/eiher Lay the two threads together contrarywise, and Knit a few stitches with them both, or fasten them together with a Weaver's Knot, :
Needles.
and Knit the ends in, one upon each side. Form a Hotmd. Rounds are worked with either five or four pins, and are required in Stocking and other Bound
On. — Another term for Cast on (which —These are formed in open fancy Knitting following manner For a small hole — Make a stitch
Hang
—
see).
in
Hole.
the
:
with an OvEE in the previous row, and Deop that stitch without Knitting in, the place where the open space is required. For a large hole In the previous row pass the wool round the pin either two, thi-ee, or four times, according to the size of the hole requii-od, and when these Overs are reached in the next row. Knit the first, Pukl the second, and repeat the Knitting and Purling until :
they are
all
formed into
stitches.
—
Terms used when the number of stitches upon the pin have to be augmented. The ways of Increasing are as follows: The simplest is Increase
or Malce a Stitch.
the Over or Bring Forward, used for open plain Knitting. Bring the wool from the back of It is worked as follows :
four pins in this kind of Knitting.
the work to the front between the pins, and put it over the right-hand pin ready to Knit the next stitch; form the same Increase when Purling, by passing the thread already at the front of the work quite round the right hand-pin, and bring it back to where it started from, ready to Purl
Pig. 511, with four pins
the next stitch.
FOKM
Via. 511.
Knitting.
The Germans use :
A EOUND.
five pins,
and the English
To work, as shown in Cast ON the number of stitches
o
Fia. 513.
o
o
19
IB
CiKcnr.An GicaE.
required upon one pin, and
Knit
or
Purl them
off
on to
another form of
OOOOOCCC
17
ae
rio. Sit.
the three pins. Divide them so that the number of stitches upon each pin are nearly the same. Take the fourth pin
is
O O O ooc-
O go
Double Stitch
IS
14:
13
la
ii
lo
STRiinnT Gahoe.
Increasing, and one chiefly used for close work. When stitches are to be Increased at the end of a row. Knit the last stitch but one, make an Otee, and Knit the last
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
284 stitcli.
An
formed ty picking up or Hold the work right side to the and put the pin into the work so as to pick iip the
raising a fr:>nt,
luci-oase is also
thus
stitcli,
:
loop nearest the last one, Knit, pull this up as a loop on the pin, and pass the working thread round the pin and
;
push the
Knit
left
pin
Stitch off
down with the it,
and
let it
right forefinger, slide the
drop.
stitch, let the loop
through the picked up loop, to form a offl
the left; then, with a movement of the right forefinger, pass the thread between the pins (see Fig. 516) draw it through the loop and up on to the right pin as a stitch,
the pin as in ordinary Knitting.
—
Together or Bindiwj. To woi'k as shown in Put the two pins containing the work together, the one holding the longer piece at the back. Take a spare Join
Fig. 514
:
Fig. 514.
first stitch upon tlie front pin, upon the back, and Knit the two continue to Knit the stitches tog.-tUer in this
pin and put
and the together
manner
it
first ;
Kkitiixg— Join TociinER.
through the
until all are absorbed.
—The
To work
and chief stitch in Knitting, and sometimes called Plain Knitting. There are two ways of making the stitch, the one shown in Figs. 515 and 516 Knit.
Fig. 510.
stitch
first
the German method: Hold the hands and these between the first finger and
in
over the pins,
Fig. 517.
thumb
of each hand, as
over the
Fij. j!5.
Knit -E:rGL'sn MEinoD.
Enghsh method.
the stitches on in
tlie left
;
into the front part of stitch, so that the front of the stitch lies across the pins,
and
slide the right pin
Knit -German Method.
shown
in Fig. 517, with the thread
second, and third fingers of the left hand,
and held tight between the little finger and third finger. Put tlie right pin through the stitch, but at the back, not front (see Fig. 518), open the stitch out, twist the pin round the thread stretched on the left fingers, draw it through the stitch, with a movement of the left wrist bring the right pin to the front, push the left pin down, and dropi the stitch on it. The hands are held closer together than shown in the engraving; they are there
To work: Hold the pin with hand (marked B), and the pin to which they are to be transferred in tlie right hand (marked A), and wind the thread round the little finger of tbat hand, bring it under the third and second finger, and over the first finger, and keeja it tight put the right pin bjing the
first,
Ksit -Us
behind
divided in order that their position
German manner
of Knitting
is
may
be
made clear.
The
the quickest, and also, from
it lies more smoothly upon the surface. Fig. 518 also gives the appearance of a piece of work with all the front part in the plain loops formed by Knitting. In Eouud Knitting, this is accomplished by Knitting every Round In Straight Knitting, where the work has to be turned, the back row is Purled,
the stitch being Knit from the back,
:
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. BO that
the kiijts of
and
loops in front.
tlie
tlie
Knitting are
th; back,
all at
is marked by the letters A and B, For example A, Purl 4, Over, Knit G, B, means that after the stitches a e once worked they are repeated thus Knit 6, Over, Purl 4. Other marks beside thj asterisk and the cross are occasionally used, but they
wards, either the plice
or by a cross
+
(
).
:
:
are generally explained in the instructions given with the
work.
Narroio.— To Deceeash either by Knitting two together or by a
Take
in.
Oy^r.— To Incesase In phiin Knitting, pass thread to the front of the work through the pins back again over the pins; or in Purl Knitting, when thread is already at the front of work, pass it over :
—
-A.
is
the
the needle and right round it, so that it again comes out at the front. The Over makes a new stitch when Knitted off
Knit.
Fig. 513.
Knil from ilie Bx:lc. Knitting the Knit Stitch
the
and
terra used wlien in Eni-lisli
to be taken at the back as in
Gorman Knitting: it is done for the piu-pose of making the work smoother in that place.
—
Knit Three Stitches Together. Put the right pin through three stitches on the left-hand pin at the back, and Knit them as one, or Slip the first stitch of the three, Knit the two next together, and Slip the first stitch over them and drop it. Knit Two Together. One of the ways of diminishing, and also known as D^vreaaa or Narrow; it is iUus-
—
on the next row, and the method of Increasing by Overs the one commonly employed in open Knitting patterns.
—
is
Pass a Stitch. See Slip Stitch. Pass the Thread Bach. When changing Purling to Knitting, pass the thread which is at the front of the work for Purling to the back. Pass the Thread Forward. When changing Knitting to Purling, the thread that is at the back of the work for Knitting is passed between the stitches to bring it to
—
—
the front for Purling. This movement of the thread is generally understood, but not expressed, although the term is sometimes used in old books.
— —
Pich up a Stitch. See Raised Stitches. Plain Knitting. See Knit. Purl. Also known as Back, Reversed, Ribbed, Seim, and Turned. It is the stitch next in importance to Knit, and produces the ribs or knots in the front of the work where they are required, or, when worked as the back ruv.',
—
FiQ. 51D.
E'siT
TWO Together.
rated in Fig. 519, .and worked thus: Put the right pin (marked A) through two stitches on the left pin (marked B), and Knit them as one. -Loop.— A term used occasionally instead of Stitch. Mahe a Stitch. To Increase in the various ways 1
—
Fio. 520.
described. Maries.
—These
are used
in
Fave the trouble of recapitulation. ij
twice put,
it
Knitting patterns to When an astei-isk (*)
indicates that the instructions for Knit-
ting between the two asterisks are to be repeated from where the lirst asterisk is placed to the last, thus Knit 3, * Purl 1, Knit 6, Over, repeat from * twice, would, if written out at full length be. Knit 3, Purl 1, Knit G, Over, Purl 1, Knit 6, Over, Purl l,Knit 6, Over. When a row is worked to a certain stitch, and is then repeated back;
IiNiTTiNC— rnm. (Engitsh Method).
Round Knitting to a straight piece To Purl as worked in England, and as shown in Hold the thread in the right hand (marked A1, an 1
gives the appearance of of woi-k.
Fig. 52
)
:
be careful that it is in the front of the work, put the right pin through the stilch in front of the left pin (marked E), lift the thread with the right forefinger, and pass it i-ound the pin, keeping
behind the
loft,
it
quite tight, bring the right pin out
and draw the
stitch off.
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK.
2S6
To work iu the Gerniau metliod, as sliowu in Fig. Hold tbe hands ever botli pins, and the pins between the thumb and forefinger of each hand. Bring the thread to the front of the work, pass it over both pins, and hold it tightly over the left hand. Put the right pin through the stitch and before the left pin, and, with a jerk of the left hand, bring the thread behind it, then draw the pin out 521
:
reverse
way: Pass the
fjom one pin
stitch
taking that part of the loop that
is
to the other, towards you.
-^
mS p^ t
(5
(
Fig. 523.
Kni'
—
One of the ways of Deceeastng. The term either means Knit two or three stitches together, or Ta\-e Tn.
Fio. 521.
KNiTTixa— Purl (German METnoD).
behind the left pin, and with the stitch on it. The German manner of Purling is the quickest and smoothest. Fig. S21, besides showing how to Pui-l, gives the appearance of a piece of Knitting which has been Knitted at every back
row and Purled in every front row. Purl Three Stitches Togdlicr.—FvR-Lthe first stitch, put it back on the left jjin, draw the next two stitches on that pin over it and drop them, and put the first stitch on the right pin.
Purl Two Stitches Together. the pin at the same time, and
— Take
two
Puel them
stitches
on
as one stitch,
first stitch and put it back on the left pin, and then draw over it the stitch next it on that pin, which droiJ, then take the first stitch on to the right pin.
or Purl the
Q.uite
Round.
— To
make an Over
in Purl Knitting.
Fin. 523.
Knittikg-Tjiei: Is.
See Over.
—
Haise Stitches. Hold the work in the right hand, and with the right pin piick up a loop, then pass the thread through it, and so make a stitch. Rib.
—
length of
Puel
—To
make an Over in Purl Knitting. Another name for Purl. Rows Kibbcd the the Knitting are made by Knit 2 stitches,
Reversed.
and repeat to the end, and in the nest row Purl the Knitted and Knit the Purled. Round. When Knitting with four or five piins, each time the stitches have once been Knitted is called a Pound. 2,
—
Roiu.
two
pins,
—When
when
all
Knitting in straight Knitting with the stitches have been Knitted off one
pin on to the other
Seam.
it is
called a
—A name given to Puil Knitting, but usually
indicating the one Purled Stitch ing,
to
Row.
down the
form the scam, and which aids
leg of a stock-
in counting the
stitches.
Slip. — To
Slip a stitch, proceed thus: Take a stitch off the left pin, and slip it on to the right pin without securirg it in any way. The Slipped Stitch in Fig. 522 is shown upon the right pin. To Slip a stitch the
Slip the first stitch. Knit the as shown in Fig. 523. second, and pass the Slipped Stitch over the Knitted. Tahe In Reversed. Pdel the first stitch, put it back on the left pin, and draw the second stitch over it. Used when wide or narrow tucks are Tiichcd. made as ornaments to the work. To make When arrived at the spot. Knit and Puel the rows until sufficient depth Pick up on a spare pin the loops showing of the is made. first row, and place this pin alongside of the one in the Knit a loop from one pin and a loop from Knitting.
—
—
:
another together.
Be
careful to arrange the t-uck to fall
on the right side of the knitting. Turned Roio. A Purled row, or a row at the back
— Turn Stitch. — Another Widen. — To Increase.
of Straight Knitting.
name
for
Puel, which
see.
—
Patteens and Stitches. Knitting Stitches, although so few in number, are capable of forming a great variety of patterns, of which the following are a selection
:
— This forms a raised
knob between
On
stitches that
Boule de Neige.
open parts.
Ca.st
any number
of
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. divide into six, for the pattern,
Knit very
First row
* Knit
five
Purl and
together,
loosely.
make
and tlirce extra stitches. Second row Knit three,
five
stitches
of one, thus
is
—
—
—
This is also known as Patent used for warm petticoats, waistcoats, and The name Brioche originated in the stitch being used first to make cushions whose shape resembled a French cake of that name, but which are now obsolete. To work Cast on the number of stitches required, and that will divide by three. First row PuRL. Second row Slip 1, * Otbk, Slip 1, Knit 2 together. Repeat the second row to the end of the work, always taking care Brioche Pattern.
stitch
suitable for scarves, counterpanes,
Over, Purl, Over, Third row Purl, and then take off, repeat from *. row Knit. Sixth row Knit. Fourth row Purl. Fifth Purl. Seventh row Knit loosely. Eighth row repeat from second row. In every pattern row the five stitches made in the previous pattern row must be the ones knitted together, so that the I'aised knobs are formed at the side, and not over the last made ones. Knitting, and
— The
—
leave stitch on the needle.
— —
Cross Pattern.
287
worked in
strips,
shown in Fig. 524 and antimacassars.
and when used for the
is
It
mentioned and It requires fleecy wool and bone needles. To wiM-k: Cast on any number of stitches that divide into 6, with four extra for Edge Stitches. First and second row Knit and Purl. Third row Knit two,* Over three times, Knit one, repeat from * until within two stitches of the end, which simply Knit. Fourth row Knit two, * draw the next six stitches on to the right-hand needle as long loops, and then pass the left-hand needle articles
the strips are
made
last
in contrasting colours
sewn together.
—
—
is
couvrepieds.
:
—
—
that the Over of the last I'ow stitches knitted together in the
A
variety of the stitch
Over of the
is
the second of the two
new row. is made by Knitting the
last I'ow as the first of the
two stitches Knitted
together; this alteration turns the knitting from a close piece of work, with perpendicular lines running
np
it,
to
a stitch with raised knobs and open places.
Brioche Knitting in two colours
is
worked upuu
needles without knobs at the ends, securing the colours
one at each end, and alternately working them backwards
and forwards.
—
This is also known as Chain Stitch. worked either with coarse or fine wool or thread, and with any even number of stitches, and it forms a laised cable in the centre of the work, surrounded with Pui'led knitting. The raised cable is managed by slipjjing upon a spare needle 3 or 4 of the centre 12 stitches (according to the width of the strip), and Knitting the remaining number of centre stitches, and then Knitting the ones put on one side; by this means a twist is given To work with No. 18 needles and fleecy to the cable. wool: Oast on 14 stitches, and Knit first and second rows. Third row Knit 3, Purl 8, Knit 3. Fourth row Repeat third and fourth rows six times each. Knit. Seventeenth row Knit 3, take off 4 stitches upon a spare pin, Knit the next 4, drawing the wool tight, and then Knit the 4 on the spare pin and the 3 still upon the Commence the nest cable by Knitting 3, Purling needle. 8, and knitting 3 stitches, as in third row, and repeat from CahlePattern.
It can be
—
—
that row.
Another Cable Pattern is made by Knitting long and then Plaiting them together.
strips of Knitting,
Close Pattern.
making
— This
simple stitch
is
useful
for
gloves, knitting lieels to stockings, or for any-
thing that requires to be close and warm. Cast on any number of stitches that divide into 2. First row Knit
Fit;.
52i.
KKiirisG— Ckoss rATTEUs.
first three loops taken on the right-hand and draw them over the other three, keeping them in regular order; put all six loops back on the left-hand needle, and knit them one after the other. Repeat from * to within two stitches at the end, which Knit. Fifth row Purl. Sixth row Knit. Seventh row as fourth. Repeat fourth, fifth, and sixth rows to the end of the pattern. There are two ways of Double Knitting Pattern.
through the
needle,
—
—
—
Knitting this stitch so that the fabric, although only knitted with two needles and at one time, has the appearDouble ance of two x'^isocs of kuilting laid together. Knitting is suitable for all warm articles, such as comforters and petticoats. It is worked with fleecy and fine
Slip 1, and repeat. Second row Knit. Repeat these two rows to the cud of the work, being careful that the Slipped Stitch of the new row should come always over
wools upon pins suitable to the thickness of the wool. To work Cast on an even number of stitches, and add Edge Stitches, which always Knit. First row Knit one, and put the wool twice round the pin; when doing so, bring the wool to the front between the j)ins, Slip a stitch,
the Slipped Stitch of the last row.
and put the wool back;
1,
—
:
—
repeat.
Second row
—Knit
the
THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. Slipped StitcL, with tbe wool twice over the pin, and
stitches that are
Knitted Stitch, bring the wool to the front before Slipping, and pass it back afterwards. Eepeat these two rows to the end of the work. Another Way. This is worked on the wrong side, and turned inside out when finished. To work Cast on an even number of stitches, and two extra for Edge Stitches, which always Knit. First row wool in front, PuKL 1, Slip 1, continue to the end, always keeping the wool in front of the needle. Second I'ow slip the Purled Stitch and Purl the Slipped. Dutch Corn Knitting Pattern. Hold the work in
twenty-nine stitches and
Blip the
—
:
—
—
—
the left hand, also the wool, and, instead of making a stitch in the ordinary manner, wind the wool round the
keep it from slipping, insert the right-hand pin into the stitch, and let it diaw the wool from the back little finger to
work to the front through the stitch. The stitch on is then let go, and the wool on the right pin makes the new stitch. Kepeat for every row. Fancy Patterns (1). The open pattern, shown in Fig. 525, is a useful one for working scarves and small sbawls in. It should be worked with fleecy wool and Cast on an even number of ivory needles. To work of the
the left pin
—
:
dropped
lie flatter.
Purl
To work First
back.
Kkitting— FA^CT PatteiiKS:
and two extra as an Edge Stitch upon each which Knit and Slip alternately. First row Over, Knit 2 together; repeat from * to the end of the row. Second row Publ every stitch. Repeat the first and second row for all the pattern. stitches,
—
side,
—
The pattern given in Fig. 526 is useful for (2). counterpanes, and is worked in strips with No. 8 Strutt's cotton and No. 17 needles, or with fleecy wools and bone pins for oouvrepieds. The stitches require careful counting, and attention should be frequently given to the direction of the slanting lines, that they diverge from and The lines slanting from left to join each other as drawn. right are formed by Knitting two stitches together, the ones slanting from right to left by Slipping 1, Knitting 1,
and passing the Slipped Stitch over knitted this is called Take In in the directions. When decreasing the diamonds in the pattern, and Knitting stitches together, always Knit them from the back of the stitch, as, by so doing, the ;
Cast on
Knit
Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knitl, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Take in. Over, Knit I, repeat from *; there will be thirty-three stitches now upon the needle. Second and all even rows Purl. Third row Knit 1, *, Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together, Over, Kuit 3, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Kuit 1, repeat from *. Fifth row— Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together, Ovei-, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 5, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 5, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Take In. Seventh row Knit I, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together, Over, Kuit 7, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Knit 1, Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 7, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Knit I. Ninth row— Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 1, Over, Knit 2, Knit 3 together. Knit 2, Over, Knit 1, Over, Take In, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Take In, Over, Knit 1, Over, Knit 2, Knit 3 together. Knit 2, Over, Knit 1, Over, Take In, Over, Take In. Eleventh row— Knit 1, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 3, Over, Knit 1, Knit 3 together. Knit 1, Over, Knit 3, Over, Tak- In, Knit 1, Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 3, Over, Knit 1, Kuit 3 together. Knit 1, Over, Knit 3, Over, Take In, Knit 1. Thirteenth row— Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 5, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Knit 5, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Knit 5, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Knit Fifteenth row Knit 2 together. 5, Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 1, Knit 3 together. Knit 1, Over, Knit 3, over, Knit 1, Kuit 3 together, Knit I, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Knit 1, Kuit 3 together. Knit 1, Over, Knit 3, Over, Knit 1, Knit 3 together, Knit 1, Over, Knit 2 together. Seventeenth row— Knit 1, Over, Take In, Over, Take In the three stitches at the top of the diamond, Over, Knit 5, Over, Knit 3 stitches together at top of diamond, Over, Knit 1, Over, Knit 1, Over, Knit 1, Over, Take In three stitches, Over, Knit 5, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 1. Nineteenth row— Knit 2, *, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Kuit 1, Knit 3 together, Knit 1, Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 3, repeat from * at end. Knit 2 instead of 3. Twentyfirst row—* Knit I, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Knit 3 together. Over, Kmt 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit Twenty-third row 1, Over, repeat from *, end at Knit I. —Knit 2 together, * Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Knit 1, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 2 together, Over, Knit 1, Over, Knit 1, Over, Knit 1, repeat from * at the end. Knit 2 together instead Twenty-fifth row— Knit 1, Over, Knit of the first Knit 1. together, 1, Over, * Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Knit 3 Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together, Slip 1, Knit 1, Slip 1, repeat from * at the end instead of last, Knit 2 together, Knit 1, Over, Knit 1. Twenty-seventh row— Knit 2, * Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Over, Take In, Knit 1, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 2 together. Over, Knit 3, repeat from * at the end, Kuit 2 instead of 3, 1 *,
—
—
—
—
Fig. 525.
:
row
XLYIII.
Plate
ii .
W 'W.<» .W .W .W » .» .
.
>-<r;
No.
167.
Furniture Lace for Mantel or Table Border.
The braid should be that woven with a picot edge. To work Materials required Ecru braid of two widths, and ecru-coloured thread. Tack the braid to a foundation in Vandyke lines, OVERCAST it well together at the points, and make the Bars and ornamental Wheels. Untack the braid from the foundation, and use the lace as an edging. :
:
No.
168.
Drum Work-basket.
No.
169.
Cross Stitch Pattern for
Drum Work-basket.
round of miUboard 5 inches in width, and a handle of the same, 8 inches long, and 2\ inches wide. The hning draw strings at each side. To work Cut out is of dark purple or blue Surah silk, and is sewn to the millboard, and gathered with detail in No. 169, and take the the size of the millboard in '\3\'^ canvas, embroider the mde strip with the pattern shown in Work in Cross Stitch, and with coloured filoseUes. Bmd the Java canvas edoirg of the pattern only to work on the handle. handle. Use a handsome silk of the the ends them at and place bows, ribbon up the to ''the millboard with ribbon, and make cord for the draw strings.
Foundation
ot Basket,
a
:
Plate XLIX.
No.
170.
Handkerchief Sachet.
Oriental handkerchief, lined with Cut sillc, and trimmed with ribbon. To make the handkerchief to shape, line it, and bind it with Embroider the design with Satin Stitch, ribbon. make ruches and bows of ribbon, and sew them on to the Sachet.
JIade of a Liberty's
Surah
fZ^v
:
.
.
,
Âť4*H^
No.
171.
Wall
Pocket.
Foundation, a stiff cardboard back, covered with plain velvet, 12 inches square, with For the the lower corners rounded off. Bag, take a piece of satin or brocaded siUi, 20 inches wide and 24 inches long, and ornament one edge with a strip of
Bulgarian Eimbroidery and fringe.
down
a
the cenire for
5
inclies,
turn
No.
172.
Foot Muff.
No.
173.
Vide Poche.
ball
Cut the upper edge of the satin the
two points over, stiifen them with buckram, and trim with Bulgarian embroiderjr. Make up the Pocket by gathering the satin 6 inches from the bottom edge, and sewing it to the lower edge of the cardLine the satin, sew it to the board. cardboard back, and finish with ribbon bows.
Made
of crimson baize, 4 feet by 3 feet 6 inches, and grey baize 2 inches larger every way. To make Fold the crimson baize in half the short Avay, and cut out from one end the two corners, measuring a square of 12 inches. Lay the two coloured baizes together, the grey undermost. Fold the grey baize over the crimson, to the depth of 2 inches, all round. Scallop the grey edges, and :
Buttonhole them
to the crimson baize. Turn up the flap left where the squares have been cut out, and form with it the pocket for the feet. Finish with wooden buttons and sillc buttonholes. "When the feet are in the Muff, it is buttoned to the knees of the wearer.
Foundation, a small wicker basket. Embroidery worked on bands of soldier's scarlet
To work
Cut out the bands, and Work the stars, edges. Berlin wool, in R.4.ILWAY Stitch, and the rest, with deep carnation-coloured purse silks, in B.\CK and Feather Stitches. Make the tassels of the wool and silk combined, and Buttonhole the bands to the foundation. cloth.
Vandyke
their
in pale blue
:
Plate L.
1^
** ^
Ly '
^-N
}
,-;/
No.
-A-
v"
175.
Square for Cot Quilt.
in Crochet Tunisian %vjth white Saxony wool, the design in pink or blue single Berlin wool, and wth Crewel Stitch. To work Cast on 18
The foundation
is
worked
:
\*I
stitches,
^^ÂťJ<g -.^^.jrfil ' J > _-; t aHM
_:
If
No.
Wall Pocket for
174.
Foundation material,
darlc
brown
*) U Ll tt.! ' II U
this
French Knots.
Letters.
cords.
blown filoselles, and ornamented Avith, To work Cut a strip of leather or kid. inches wide, scallop out
fine
brown
silk
14 inches long, the top as shown, and work the iiinning border in BACK Stitch, and the top medalhon in Satin Stitch, Couching the fine cord round the flowers and leaves and stems. Cut out three Pockets in kid, each 5 inches wide and 4 inches high, work the designs shown on them in Satin Stitch and Couching, sew them to the foundation, and border with the cord. Finish the Wall Pocket with a millboard back, and sew a handsome cord on as an edging. 5J-
Border
kid, erabroideied with sliades ot
and
bright
and work 18 rows in Idiot Stitch.
square with a row of Single Crochet, worked with the coloured wool. Use the same coloured wool to form the flowers and leaves, and finish the flower centres with
:
No.
176.
Gentleman's Sachet.
The Sachet is of large size, and is intended lor gentlemen's use. The cover is made of silk brocade, finished with a border of plush and a silk cord the inside lining and pockets are of quilted satin. To work Cut a piece of brocade, iS inches long, and 8 inches wide. Outline the flowers on this brocade by Couching round them fine gold cord, and work in their centres, with French Knots and Satin Stitches, in coloured silks. Cut bands of plush, 2 inches wide, and sew these round the brocade. OuiLT the linin g and the pockets, sew them inside the cover, and hide the joins at the edges with a wide silk cord Overcast over them. ;
:
Plate
LI.
No.
178.
Knitting Basket.
Foundation of wicker; ornaments, bands of cloth and ribbed ribbon, shown in No. 180. To work Cut the edge of the band into Vandykes, and lay along its centre a narrow piece of ribbon, cut into alternate diamonds and long squares. Round this narrow ribbon Couch double Berlin wool strands, and work the centre The side bands of the in Satin Stitch and Dots, with the same wool. Basket are worked in Feather Stitch, and their centre ornament consists of a siUc ribbon, cut in the shape of a leaf, and Couched' round with double Berlin wool. :
No.
177.
Knitted Reins for Children.
Needles No. 12, and coarse wheeling yarn of two To knit shades of colour, are required. Cast on 14 stitches, and knit 3 yards in length in Plain Knitting, to make the Reins. Knit four i-yard lengths of the same ^vidth, and sew these together to form the cross-pieces and anns, and sew the Reins Embroider the child's initials to the latter. with white filoselle, on the front cross-piece, in Cross Stitch.
No.
Bamboo
179.
Watch
Stand.
Java canvas, brass and cord of navy blue and crimson colours, and Over the To work Java canvas embroider filoselles matching the cord. Use the alternate crosses and eight-pointed stars, in Satin Stitches. blue for the stars. crosses, and the navy crimson filoselle for the
Materials required
hook,
silk
:
stand, octagonal piece of
tassels
:
No.
180.
Detail of Knitting Basket.
Plate LII
8i.
Toe of Child's Slipper.
To make Cut the cloth to the size of the child's shoe, and work with crewel wools. the toe in Satin and Rope Stitch with crewels of natural shades sew the rough cloth to a slipper sock, trimming. And edge with a silk cord or narrow fur
Worked upon rough
cloth,
:
;
No.
182.
Crochet Edging for a Pincushion.
vnth coarse crochet cotton. First row 6 Chain, 4 Chain to make 10 Chain,* cotton round the a PICOT, I Chain, repeat from 4 Chain twice hook twice, and a Long Treble into the seventh Chain 4 Chain to make * repeat from the commencement of repeat from t\rice, then and a Picot, Second row Like the first, except that 6 Double Crochet are the row. worked over every 6 Chain of the last row, and the 3 Picots above the Long Trebles, the Long Trebles above the Picots.
Worked
:
;
;
:
Photo Stand Sachet. No. Sachet, a square of ribbed silk. Foundation and stand of strong millboard. To work Cut the square, as shown, into four flaps, embroider these with flowers in natural colours, and with filoselles in Satin and Dot Stitches. Sew three flaps together, surround with a silk cord, and carry the cord Glue the back of the sachet, and the round the fourth, which O] en. back of the extended flap, to the millboard mount. :
Handkerchief Border.
184.
Material for centre, fine white cranbric ; edging of white To work Trace the design upon the cambric, lace. and work with French embroidery cotton in Raised :
S.^-TiN,
Overcast,
Stitches.
Satin,
and
French Knot
Plate Lin.
Window
Sill
Valance of Patchwork.
octagon stars, allowing Materials required: Black velvet bacliground, patches of silk and satin, and some filoselles. To work: Cut out the together, two shades of one colour to each, such as two shades of grey, two of crimson, and two of olive green. Tack the patches the foundation velvet, Butionhole each star to Stitches. or with lines of Feather Coral and ccnceal the tacking threads and work connecting lines on that liom one star to the other, as shown.
No.
Worked, with French embroidery
1
86.
on
No.
The
White Embroidery for Underclothing.
To work: Trace the design, and work white linen. Overcast, Rope, and Point de Pois Stitches.
cotton,
fine
1S7.
it
over in
RAISED Satin,
Cloth Edging for Book Shelves.
To work the Edging, cut embroidery aie used shelves are of plain wood, and, to hide their edges, strips of cloth ornamented with the other ^Mth double Berlin wool. a strip of cloth the length of the shelf, and 2 inches in width ; scallop one edge, and Overcast Stitches. Satin and Work the pattern with two distinct coloured filoselles, in Crewel
Plate LIV.
No.
i88.
Embroidery for Tennis Apron or Dress Apron.
worked upon a band of one colour, and then laid upon material of a contrasting shade. For a Tennis Apron for a Dress Apron, to the scarlet band blue stars are it is worked on scarlet twill, and laid upon grey or white twill apphque, and the embroidery is laid on a black foundation. To work Cut out the stars in grey or blue materials, lay them on the scarlet band, and work them round with Chain Stitch. Finish their centres with Feather Stitch and Buttonhole. Work on the scarlet material in Herringbone, Satin, and Cross Stitch. Use old gold, pale blue,
The Embroidery
is
;
:
and deep crimson
filoselles,
for the
Embroidery.
No.
189.
Braided Mantel Border.
also suitable for a wood basket or a table border. It is worked and the centre fillings made with purse sUk. To work Trace the design, For the fillings, make crossbars of the strands of purse siUi, and outline. stitch. The Border can be worked either upon maroon, na%y blue, oUve plain gold, or fancy braids.
This design
is
:
on dark cloth, mth fine gold-coloured braid, and Back Stitch the braid round the whole secure the bars where they meet with a back green, or black cloth, -with black and gold,
Plate LY.
No. Cut
190.
D'Oyley of Muslin^ Lace, and Tulle.
inches in diameter, in tliin muslin and tulle arrange on the muslin dried leaves and grass, and gum them down sew the tulle circle over them, and trim with two rows of fine lace put on very full sew a roAV of gold beads over the join between lace and tulle.
circles, 5 J
;
;
No.
igi.
Detail of Chair Back.
No. The
193.
Edging for Muslin Window Blind.
net foundation is bought with the white Vandykes already arranged, and the work consists in sewing a line of Arrasene silk along these lines, working the stars, and hanging on the plush balls. To work Overcast the Arrasene with filoselle to the foundation, w'ork the stars in S.\TIN Stuck, with Arrasene, and hang on the plush balls with loops of filoselle. :
No.
192.
Chair Back of Drawn Work, Lace, and Embroidery.
The border of this Chair Back is one-third of the length of the material, and is made by sewing insertion lace between wide rows of Drawn Work. The narrow edge round the Toile Colbert centre is of Drawn Work and Lace. For the Embroidery, work the detail shown in No. igr. Work, in Satin and Overcast Stitches, with Oriental
silks.
Plate
LYI,
^.v> I
No.
194.
Trimmng for
^^^'iii~i£'i.
'
Children's Summer Frocks.
Brown holland or white pique for the foundation, crewel wool or ingrain cotton for the embroidery. To Materials required Trace the design upon the foundation strip, and scallop the edges, which work round with Buttonhole Stitch. the design, in two shades of one colour, in Crewel Stitch and Point de Pois. :
work
Work
'^W;^,^^^;&\'. No.
195.
Border for Tablecloth or Perambul.a.tor Rug.
plain cloth matching the darkest colour Materials required: For the centre, a piece of tapestry cloth; for the Border, a piece of To work colour, as the plain cloth. used in the centre, and double crewel wools and silks of a lighter shade, but of the same "Work the spray design in Railway Cut one edge of the plain cloth in scallops, and TACK this edge to the centre piece. the silk to Imes. Use cun-ed the form wool to the same two strands of down s. and ^„„^„ „ Couch „ Stitch with the double crewels. , j . . j r 1 j strands of wool round a make the Couching stitches, and to fill in the centres of the rosettes. To make the tassels, ^^^nd the silk strands. card cut and tie them, ravel out some silk, lay this o\ex them, and retie with
—
—
,
LYII.
Plate
8 ^P^H ^^^^ ^s m l^^^^b
No.
196.
D'Oyley in Roman Work.
with French Embroidery cotton. To work Trace the design, Overcast the outline, and connect it to Work the border in Buttonthe border with fancy PicoTS.
Worked on
fine linen,
:
hole Stitch, and
cut
away
the spare linen.
H B Hi H H H s ^s ^s ^H H H M 1 ^S E 8 No.
Worked
197.
^M
^^^PB
^^p
^^1^^
H H B ^s
^(
m ^B
Knitted Quilt for Bassinette.
in four shades of
one colour, with Laine deVienne or single
To work
Berlin wool, and needles No. 11.
:
For a
perfect square,
Knit in Plain Knitting an exact square border of half squares, cast on 40 stitches, and decrease by Knitting 2 together at the beginning of ever)' alternate row, Sew the various until only 2 stitches remain on the needle. squares together in the arrangement of colour given in the pattern, line the Quilt with thin silk, and sew a coloured cord round the edge, or make a long fringe with the spare wool. Cast on 40
stitches,
and
for the
No.
19S.
SouARE
J, AMI'
Materials, Java canvas,
Mat
in IIoi.isein
and ingrain
silks
Embroidery.
of three shades.
To
Execute the entire design in HoLBEiN Stitch, and put in the three shades of colour as indicated by the dark or light pnnting. The same design worked on Toile Colbert both sides is used for window blinds as in Holbein Stitch of the work are alike.
work
No.
199.
Border for Baby's Head Shawl.
:
;
Embroider)' worked vnib Foundation, either blue or scarlet flannel. To work Scallop out edge of shawl, and white, unbleached silk. trace the design work it round with Buttonhole Stitch above it,' and execute it ia S.^tin Stitch. :
;
Plate
LYIIL
No.
200.
Lawn
Tennis Shoe Case.
To make: Cut a piece of American make, brown hoUand, blue worsted braid, and blue crewels Round the edge of one of the lengths, and embroider the American cloth, and one of holland, 24 inches in length, and 12 inches wide. Make two full holland pockets, and sew them to the holland. one on each side cloth with crewels in Cro.ss and Vandyke Stitches. Bind the holland and the American cloth together with braid, of the length of the mateiial, and at a little distance from each other. and make divisions by stitching down lines of blue worsted braid to the holland. Finish with a strap, or button and buttonhole. American cloth of
Materials used:
a thin
No. No.
201.
202. Det.ail
of Sideboard Cloth in Holbein Stitch.
Sideboard Cloth.
The embroidery is worked so as to bring material is of crinkle cloth, or diaper cloth, ^vith the border woven in the stuff. at the long edges the embroider}' is placed between the the pattern out in rehef, by filling in the background at the sides of the cloth For the lines, woven lines. To work the sides, lill in the background with Holbein Stitch, as showai in No. 202, with crewel wool. work in Cross Stiicii, in Rope, Coral, Feather, and Dot Stitch.
The foundation
;
No. No.
203.
Lead
204.
E.MBROIDERV OF LE.AD CUSHION.
Pincitshion.
Above the lead a cushion, stuffed with horsehair, and covered is a square of lead, sunk in a wooden frame. with black velvet, is sewn, and the wooden frame is concealed with black satin, to which a panel of oil gold-coloured silk is Apphqui5. To work Cut out the panel, and work, the pattern shown in No. 204 in Fe.ather Stitch, with crimson purse silk. Applique to the black satin, and Couch a crimson silk cord round the panel.
The foundation of the Pincushion :
Plate
LIX.
No.
205.
Wood
Basket.
Foundation, a black wicker Basket, with gilded handle. The sides of Basket are covered with a deep cloth valance, embroidered To work Cut out dark blue cloth to fit the side, and with single Berlin wools or crewels, and finished with wool tassels. Work the pattern in Point Lance, Back Stitch, and French Knots, in old gold and bronze Vandyke one edge. Finish with tassels of wool. colours, on the cloth. :
No.
No.
206.
Wall Pocket
for Dkessing-room.
Made
of striped red and white ticking, and used for holding Size of foundation, 12 inches by 7 inches toilet necessaries. of Pockets, 4 inches by 7 inches. To work Work stars, in Satin Stitch, and with dark blue filoselles, down all the white stripes Line the Pockets with blue quilted alpaca, and of the ticking. finish the Pockets and edge ^\^th a ruche of blue ribbon. ;
:
207.
Work
Tub.
Foundation, an American flour tub. The lid is covered with soldier's blue cloth, and a deep valance of the same material hides the Tub, while the wooden handle is also covered nith the cloth. The cloth on the Ud should be of a hght blue, and To work On the lid cover that on the Tub of a darker shade. embroider the pattern with Satin Stitch, in shades of pale yellow and piiik silks on the Tub cover work in Satin, Crewel, and Rope Stitches, and with carnation-coloured silks. Make the tassels of BerUn wool, to which add strands of all the colom-ed silks used in the embroider)-. :
;
Plate LX.
No.
2oS.
Boot Bag.
Materials required
:
Brown
No.
209.
Spectacle Rubbers.
Cut four pieces of thin card, 2^ inches long, and shape like Cover two with dark a pear. kid, and embroider them \\"ith a butterfly in Satin Stitch.
holland,
braid, and scarlet ingrain cotton. To work Cut one piece of holland, 13 inches by 6 inches, and another 16 inches by 6 inches. Round both edges of the longest strip, and one of the shortest. Work, in Holbein Stitch, the bordering shown, as an edging to both pieces, sew them together, and bind round with the braid. Make a flap by turning the long piece over the shortest, and finish mth a button and scarlet
:
Pad
the other two, cover with chamois leather, and sew on to the kid, to form the inside of Take a small the Rubbers. curtain ring, and cover it with
Single Crochet, worked
in
Sew the Rubbers purse silk. on each side of this ring, leaving enough space for a narrow ribbon to be run through the ring.
buttonhole.
No.
The
Cigar Case.
210.
materials used are two shades of grey kid, two shades of ruby-coloured purse silks, and ornamental grey sillc ' cord. To work Trace the design and initials on the lightest coloured kid, and work in Raised Satin Stitch. Applique to the dark kid, and surround the panel with Work the design on the dark kid, the ornamental cord. :
in
Satin Stitch, with
No.
211.
the darkest ruby
silk.
Luncheon Case.
out the waterproof cloth, and line it Materials required: Waterproof cloth, dark bro^n holland, and navy blue dress braid. To work: Cut a w-ide pocket to hold sandÂŤnch with the holland. Make a large double pocket, to hold a nickel silver tumbler and a sherry flask; bound with braid, and the articles hoUand These pockets are all made of case, and a strap for table napkin, and knife and fork. white silk. should fit them tightly. Ornament the braid with HERRINGBONE Stitch, worked in scarlet or
Plate
LXL
,;
No.
212.
Key
'jr--^,
j^\
Basket.
Foundation of wickei', covered witli cloth, and worked with Cloth Embroidery. Tlie Bashned witli sillc, and finislied with a Icet is frill
No.
213.
V/ATCH Pocket.
Foundation of millboard pale blue rep silk;
of ribbon.
Ijlue
velvet,
Satin with
;
lining ot
Bag
of dark
embroidered
Stitch
Couched
;
flowers lines
of
with
edged gold
thread.
No.
Doll's Trousseau Basket.
214.
Basket of wicker
;
trimming of ribbon and lace
;
lining
of blue sateen.
No. No.
215.
Box Pincushion.
Foundation, a cigar Box; covering of German canvas, worked witli Cross Stitch trimming, plush ribbon, silk fringe, and tassels and gimp. ;
216.
WoRK-B.\SKET.
Foundation, an ordinary wicker Basket, which is worked with Holbein Stitch, and lines of coloured tinsel sewn on between the work edging of fine wire, covered with Buttonhole; lining of silk; ribbons of silk. ;
Plate
LXIL
No.
To work
the Valance, see
and
Gobelin
217.
Window Seat Valance.
Gobelin Tapestry. for the
No.
Window
218.
Finish with tassels matching the colours used Seat use quilted satin sheeting.
Tapestry Screen
{see
Tapestry).
Plate LXIII
No.
220.
Crochet Sofa Rug.
Foundation, Idiot Stitch border of Chain Stitch, worked in a darker coloured wool than is used for ;
No.
To work
219.
Handkerchief Border of Mignakdjse Braid AND Crochet.
Sew the centre Braids together to form open diamonds, and connect them together with Chain Stitch loops. Work the Boiders in rows of Single Crochet and Cross Trebles, and edge with Single Crochet loops. The Braid is taken down the centre of the Handkerchief, as well as
:
round the
the centre, and over the Idiot Stitch foundation. To make the rosettes, work a round of Chain Stitch in light wool, and fasten this doA\Ti with Buttonhole Stitch, made Avdth a dark coloured silk.
sides.
X
i No.
221.
These ornamental
Window Blind Window
Band. 2.
Blinds are used to block
out an unsightly view. They aie made with alternate strips of Guipure Lace and Toile Colbert. Woik the Toile Colbert in Cross and Long Stitch, with ingrain cotton.
Made
Border and Centre for Ornajiekt.\l Pillow Case.
To work Sew the braid with plain Mignardise braid and Crochet. together to form the centre pattern, and ornament with loops of Chain Stitch and a border of Chain Stitch and Single Crochet. Rows of Single Crochet and CROSS Trebles form tire edgings. :
Plate
LXIY.
No. 223. Insertion for Childrkn's Underclothing in Crochet MiGNARDisE Braid.
and
First row, CROSS Trebles and 5 Chain a narrow row of braid. alternately; second row, 5 Double Crochet into the centre of the first Cross Treble, * Purl Foundation Stitch for one loop, 3 Chain into centre of second Cross Treble, 3 Chain back to Purl Foundation, draw through as a Repeat from commencement of the row loop, and repeat from * three times. Work both sides of the Insertion in this manner, and join them to the end.
Foundation,
together, as shown, with looped Chain Stitch.
No. 224. Tablecloth for Small Drawing-room Table. Foundation, ecru-coloured German linen, woven in
two shades ot crimson ingrain cotton, in Border made by drawing out the foundation of the remaining threads, as shown, with the scarlet cotton securing them.
squares.
Design worked,
Cross Stitch, Holbein Stitch, and Russian Ejlbroidery Stitch. linen to a depth of 3 inches,
and malcing
tassels
in
Plate
LXV,
liBiiiyiiiiiiiiliiiSiiiL!!!
No. Foundation, seal brown cloth;
225.
jiiMlMJiifcii^taMiMiMiiJU'I fiiiiiiii
Border for Book Shelves.
embroidery in Oriental silks of yellow shades, and in Satin and Chain Stitch.
No. No.
226.
Crochet Sofa Quilt Centre.
Worked vnth strip
double Berlin wool, in strips (each of a different colour), and with Raised
227.
Looped Crochet Border for Sofa Quilt.
Foundation, a strip g
Chain
coloured wool
Cross Stitch.
No.
228.
of crochet, worked in Idiot are worlved over the founto each loop, and a dark fastened through them.
The loops
Stitch. dation,
is
Half Square of Guipure d'Art, for Sofa Cushion.
This Square is laid, when worked, upon a foundation of plush, and is edged witli a broad band of satin, and finished with a Foundation, Square Netting, over which is worked, with fine wide frilling of satin and a Guipure Lace edging. linen thread, Point de Toile, Point d'Espkit, Point de Reprise, Guipure en Relief, Point de Venise, and
Etoiles.
Plate LXY[.
Chair Back.
Made
with plush,
satin,
gold-coloured satin; size of of the satin, and work the gold-coloured cord. Make same ribbon, concealing the
To work
Cut out four squares ot maroon-coloured plush, and five squares of old squares, 6 inches. Cut five squares of plush, ij- inches square. Sew the latter to the centres Edge the small plush centre with an old embroidei-y in Satin Stitch and crimson sillv. up the various squares with the brocaded ribbon as connecting strips, and border with the Finish with a bought tassel plush fringe. stitches with an old gold silk cord.
and fancy ribbon.
:
No. 230. Guipure Lace Edging for Blinds. Square Netting, over which is worked, with fine linen thread. Point d'Esprit, filling in backgroundj and on For the border, Point d'Etoile, Point de Guipure en Relief, Point de Venise, and Etoiles. Venise, and Buttonhole Stitch, are required.
Foundation, the
design,
LXYII.
Plate
No.
232.
Detail of Butterfly.
No.
233.
Ornamental Cover for Bradshaw.
Foundation of
No.
231.
Foundation, a
Leaves for Basket.
fine
Open part of leaf. Treble Edging, a loop of 3 Chain and Single Crochet alternately.
Crochet. Crochet.
of
235.
Work
234.
Butterfly for the Hair.
;
of
wicker
;
236.
Cloth Edging for Mantelboards.
Chain
Stitch Embroidery.
Basket.
leaves made mth fine wtc, over with single Berlin wool in Crochet. bag and pompons complete the trimming.
Foundation
em=
gimp and CHAIN StitCH foundation of wings and body, fine wire. Lines of gimp Overcast to wire, and worked round the edges with loops of silli.
No.
No.
comers
broidery.
No.
Made
Avith
;
with Single
wire, covered
satin,
broidered with Satin Stitch border of Herringbone Stitch. The foundation is crossed diagonally with a piece of plush that is edged with a silk cord and rosettes of em-
worked
A
satin
Foundation, plum-coloured cloth, worked in Chain Stitch, with two shades of pale blue silks, and ornamented with spangles and bugles.
Plate
LXYIII.
No.
237.
Teacloth of Toile Colbert bordered with Lace.
Centre of Tablecloth, CROSS Stitch, surrounded with Drawn Work. Stitch, finished with insertion and edging
Embroidered border, of Satin lace.
No. No.
238.
Ornamental Eider Down Cover.
Centre, a Guipure d'Art square, bordered with a puft and frillings of satin, edging of swansdown, and a frilling of double satin.
239.
Chair Back.
Foundation, teiTa cotta-coloured plush, ornamented with Brocade Embroidery.
Plate LXIX.
No. Foundation, cheese in strips.
To
Chair Back.
.40. clotli,
worlc
:
with rows of Drawn with Chain Stitch.
on which
is
Detail of Ornamental Bkaid FOR Chair Back.
laid fancy braid
Ornament the cheese cloth Work, and the fancy biaid
Work
No. Foundation, German canvas.
Stitch
No.
243.
Foundation of velveteen
broidery upon
Couched round
the
outlines of
the
braid
over \vith
Ch
Stitch, using single Berlin wool.
;
242.
No.
Foot Muff.
and
fur.
Applique
A
Corner for Tablecloth.
Background worked with two shades of single Berlin wool, Holbein Stitch, in purse silk.
in
Cross
pattern outhned with
Silk
Em-
broad silk cord the velveteen. the Applique pattern as a finish.
is
Pocket H.andkerchief Sachet.
244.
Foundation of satin trimming, a GuiPURE d'Art square, and Guipure edgmg. Border, Feather Trimming. Bow of satin at one comer as a finish. ;
Plate
LXX.
I
(
>-
No.
245.
Italian Cross Stitch and HoLBErN Work-table Centre.
Foundation material, Geiman canvas enibroideiy, executed with ingi-ain scarlet and navy blue purse silk. To work: FiU in the background entirely with Cross Stitch, and witli the scarlet silk work Holbein Siitch round the outlines of pattern, and, for the markings of the same, with navy blue silk.
Plate LXXI.
-
No. Foundation of pheasant
246.
Hand Screen
in
:)
Feather Work.
To make
Foundation,
Embroidered Pillow Casf
fine linen.
and Stitches. thread,
with
Design executed in
fine
Raised and Fancy
No.
Worked on
fine
249.
Work.
A
spray of
I
No. ''4~
,
1
the butterflies, see Feather artificial flowers finishes the Screen.
feathers.
i
No.
'/
248.
Detail of Embroidered Pillow Case.
Worked
in
Raised Satin Stitch, Point de
Pois, and Satin Stitch.
white linen
Embroidery
Embroidered Initials for Handkerchief.
white cambric, with
white embroidery cotton,
French Knots.
in
Raised Satin Stitch and
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Csulfeild? Sophia Frances Annen 1824The dictionary of needlework
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