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DMC
LIBRARY
Embroidery on Net
TH. DE DILLMONT, EDITOR
MULHOUSE
(Alsace)
Cornell University Library
The tine
original of
tiiis
book
is in
Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright
restrictions in
the United States on the use of the
text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924086746884
Strip of
Embroidered Net.
Embroidery on Net.
Embroidery on net has become one of the most
attractive
kinds of needlework, being both easy to do and adaptable to a great variety of uses. The reason of its noj having until novi' taken its rightful place amongst the many different forms of
needlework, and of having failed to find favour with amateurs of fancy work, is perhaps due ,to the knotted net on which it had to be-done having to be made by hand which was a slow and rather tedious process. But now net materials with meshes of every sort of size are machine-made, which imitate the hand-made to perfection and bear washing equally well. The embroideries reproduced in the plates of the present album have all been woi"ked on such machine-made net and we have satisfied ourselves that it meets every requireinent and in every respect equals the
hand-made
article.
Nevertheless, added to the description of the different em-
broidery stitches employed, the necessary directions for making the net by hand are given in case any of pur readers should prefer making it themselves.
Implements loops,
^teel
meshes or
needles are
;
i
spools.
made
should be used
and 2). The made by means of
(figs,
or stitches as they are called, are
needles, and
The
for making: the net
of steel,
wood
or bone. For fine net,
the ends resemble pincers, with a hole
EMBROIDERY ON NET
4
bored through them below the fork, in which the thread is secured, fig. i the middle is like an ordinary knitting needle. The quantity of thread wound on lengthways between the forked ends must depend on the size of the mesh or spool employed, so that it may be slipped through the loops or stitches without difficulty. Besides these two implements, a weighted cushion is required ;
on which
to pin the loop of coarse thread that holds the netting
being made. Materials. The choice of the thread depends of course on the purpose the net is intended for. Cotton, silk and linen
whilst
it is
—
Fig.
Fig. i.
thread can
all
Steel netting needle.
Mesh or spool
be used
made
generally
I.
;
Reduced
size.
for netting. Natural size.
netted articles of one colour only are
of cotton or flax; those of several colours, in
silk or in imitation silk.
Of
the
D.M.C
articles,
those
we recommend
for netting,
Flax thread for knitting D.M.C (Lin k tricoter); Flax lace thread D.M.C (Lin pour dentelles), Alsatian thread D.M.C (Fil
are
:
D.M.C (Cotonperld) and Crochet D.M.C (Cordonnet 6 fils,. (*)
d'Alsace), Pearl cotton
6 cord
cotton
All these materials have a regular uniform twist and do *
not knot in the working;
—
The shape of the loops or stitches in Netting: stitches. is always square or oblong.
netting
—
First position of the hands (fig. 3). Every piece of net must be begun on a foundation loop of strong thread 4 to 8 in. long, which is pinned on to the weighted cushion. Then fasten the netting-needle thread to this foundation loop. Then take the mesh or spool in the left hand, holding it between the thumb and forefinger straightening out the other fingers beneath. Lay the thread over the spool and over the second, third and fourth fingers, bring it back upwards behind (*)
flax
See
and
at the
end of the book, the table of the sizes of the D.M.C cotton, '
silk articles.
;
EMBROIDERY ON NET these three fingers and lay
holds
it
it
to the left
D
under the thumb which
in position.
Second and third position of the hands (figs. 4 and 5). Carry the thread downwards again behind the four fingers, and slip the needle upwards from below through the loop that is on the fingers, and through the loop at the back of the spool or through the one to which the thread is fastened
Fig.
a second loop
is
3.
First position of the hands.
thus formed on the
left
hand which the
little
finger holds fast.
Then
gradually tightening the thread you draw out the fingers from the loop held by the little finger, and tighten the
loop passing over the second third and fourth fingers.
The
last
loop m.ust be kept on the
little
finger until the first
one is quite closed. Then only do you draw the little finger out of the loop, tighten the knot and finish the stitch.
The subsequent stitches are made in the same way, whether they serve for casting on the work or for making a netted ground.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
6
you have cast on a sufficient number of loops, draw out the mesh, then turn the work and, to begin a new row, lay
When
the spool against the
row
of finished stitches.
You then pass the needle through the last stitch of the preceding row and make as many knots as there are loops.
—
The stitches just described form diagonal Diagonal net. net for which the work must be turned at the end of each row,
Fig. 4.
because
it
is
Second position of the hands.
always made in horizontal rows running from
left to right.
Diagonal net broidery
;
bordered with
makes
it
is
very seldom used as a foundation for
a net with straight stitches a.
is
em-
generally preferred,
selvedge of double and triple stitches, as this
easier to join several pieces together or
sew them on
to a bit of stuif.
—
stitches. A net ground embroidered should be made just the necessary size to avoid useless work and economise materials. We subjoin directions for making squares, strips, frames and
Shapes of net -with straight
that
is
to be
rectangular pieces.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
7
—
Square of straight net (figs. 6 and 7). To make net squares with straight loops or stitches, begin by casting on two loops or three knots. In every succeeding row make two knots on the last loop so that each row is increased by one loop. Continue to increase until you have one loop more than the square should number. After this row, with the extra loop, make one row without
Fig. 5. Third position of the hands.
either increase or intake, begin the intakes in the next
joining the two last loops of every Slip the
knot,
two
last stitches,
that
row by is
to say, join
them by
but draw the spool or mesh out of the loop
tightening the knot,
row by
a knot.
a
before
—
Rectangular piece of straight net. Begin, as for the square, figs. 6 and 7, by casting on two stitches and continuing to increase to the length of the short side, and than make a row without increasing. After that make one row with an increase, and one with a decrease, until the side with the increases is the requisite length for the rectangular piece. You must see that the stitches do not become too short oh the side where you increase
;
this very easily
happens beca.use the double knot,
EMBROIDERY ON
8
resulting from the increase, takes
where you like a
two
join
-NET
more room than
by a knot. You
stitches
the decrease,
finish the
shape
square by decreasing at the end" of each row.
Strip of straight net
(fig.
— The
8).
way
simplest
to
on the required number of stitches, decrease on one side by joining two stitches by a knot and increase on the other side by making two knots in one stitch. Care must be taken not to change the order of the decreases and the increases as any mistake of niake such strips
is
to cast
would interrupt
that kind
the lines
of the squares.
How as usual
a
Begun.
make
new
is
the corners of a done by decreasing
on the inner side, then making
loop on the
last
loop so as to
form the angle. You then go on making the strip, but with this difference, that you make the increases on the inside and the decreases on the
Fig; 6.
Square of straight
to
— This
strip.
net.
.
outside.
(See also the directions fof
the square frame of net,
fig.
Square frame of net
—
g.) (fig.
9).
After casting on the loops as for
an ordinary piece of net, increase
them
to the
letter
number
a,
of eight,
then make four loops, skip the last* four of the preceding row, turn, make five Fig.
Square of straight
loops, increase at the last one,
make
7,
net.
last,
Finished.
four loops and decrease at the
turn,
make
five loops,
increase at
make four loops, decrease at the last one, then increase at the same loop, turn, make four loops and decrease at the last one, turn, make five the last one, turn,
loops, increase at the last, turn, last,
turn,
make five
Fasten the thread on
empty loops
are,
make
four loops, decrease at the
loops, increase at the last one, cut the thread.
point
c,
at the
make
outside edge where the four
four loops, turn,
loops, increase at the last one, turn,
make four
make
five
loops, decrease
EMBROIDERY ON NET make
at the last one, turn,
make turn,, make
five loops, increase at the last
one,
four loops, decrease and increase at the last one,
turn,
four loops, decrease at the last one, turn,
loops, increase at the last one, turn,
make
at the last one, turn,
make
make
five
four loops, decrease
five loops, increase at the last
one
and cut the thread. Fasten on the thread on the outside edge to the first loop, the next loop, make six loops, and join the two separate
slip
between the and the fourth loop by a knot on the last strips
third
loop of the
and the
left strip
first
loop
of the right strip,
decrease at the last of the turn,
make five
to
three
make two
loops,
two
loops.
lo).
(fig.
broidery on net the
be mounted
make
make
turn, slip the last
Frames
decrease,
turn,
loops,
four loops, turn, loops, turn,
turn,
loops,
six
then continuing
make
Fig. 8. Strip of straight net.
loops,
six
Fof em-
latter
must
in the ordinary
way on an embroidery if it
frame, be machine-made net; for
the hand-made,
some
prefer a
Fig, 9. metal frame, particularly in the Square of straight liet. case of a small piece of work. Such a frame should be made of wire strong enough not
yield It
when the net is stretched. may be square or oblong
to
according to the shape of the
work to be done upon it. The wire should be covered first with wadding, fig. .10, and then with thin ribbon, wound tightly. round it, specially at the corners so that
it
may
be quite firm on the wire and not twist
EMBROIDERY ON NET
10
about
when
the net
is
fastened on
must then be secured by
it.
The ends
of the ribbon
a few stitches.
Mounting the net on the wire frame without a tig.
— When
ii).
the frame
more
set
it
the net
is
braid.
exactly the size of the inside of
need only be fastened in with overcasting
stitches,
closely together at the corners.
Mounting a piece of net on the frame with a tape
—
on the contrary, the piece of net is smaller than the frame it can be edged all round with a linen tape, eased on in the sewing so as to form gathers round little
(fig.
12).
If,
the net.
In this way the net can be tightly
without
stretched
tearing loops.
outside
the
Figure
shews how
to
12
sew on
the tape, to pleat at
the
corners
it
atid
to fix the net in the
frame. In piece Fig.
10.
mounting of
a
machine-
Metal frame tor embroidered net.
sable to turn in the edges a so firm as the knots
—
little,
^^^^^ ^^^^ j^ j^ ^^^j, as the woven loops are not
made by hand.
Special needles are required for this work, long Needles. and blunt, known as "filet-guipure" needles, made in numbers I
to 6.
—
For embroidery on net the same material Materials. should be used as the one the ground is made of; twisted threads for the various lace stitches and soft loose ones for the -.
darning stitches and the outlines.
The
best twisted threads for the purpose are either Flax
D.M.C
(Lin
D.M.C
Flax lace thread pour dentelles), or Pearl cotton D.M.C (Coton
thread for knitting
(Lin' k tricoter),
.
EMBROIDERY ON NET perl^)
;
I
I
for a loose thread
take
either
Special
D.M.C
stranded cotton
(Mouhn^ Stranded
D.M.C
special),
thread
flax
(Lin moulin^),
Stranded silk D.M.C (Sole moulinde) or Persian silk D.M.C (Soie de Perse).
—
Stitches. Little squares of net serve as a foundation for a number
of different stitches and these stitches lend themselves to so man\-
binations
that
com-
we
Fig. II.
Mounting net on the metal frame without webbing.
are
we are going to describe there will be some unknown to our readers. We can say for certain that many of them we have never met with either described or illustrated in any publication we have come across. Darning stitch, (figs r3 and 14). — The simsure that amongst those
'
plest stitch for covering a
ground
net
dar-
is
ning stitch. It is done over a prescribed number of squares, across which the thread is carried
backwards and
forwards until they are filled in. It is
the stitch
generally used
when
pattern
consisting
counted
stitches,
as is
a
cross
such one,
reproduced on ground.
to be
a net
stitch
a
of
pig. 12.
Mounting net on the metal
frame with webbing.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
12 It is specially
as curtains
work such throws up the pattern and is
useful in the case of large pieces of
and bed-spreads as
it
very quickly done. It
may happen
that
you have,
as
you go,
change the
to
how
direction of the darning stitch; figure 14 explains
embroidering outlines, to this
this is
very often used for
It is also
done.
we
will refer
again further on, poge 22.
Linen
^ This
stitch
(figs. i5, 16, 17, 18).
the stitch
is
with in the
(')
most ofton met
embroideries and the
old:
"grounds of leaves and flowers as well 'as
the edges are generally
After fastening
the
worked in
it.
thread to a
knot of the net it is, carried twice to ^^^ f^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ threads of the net so that every second thread passes at the end of the row under the thread of the net and over it when it is brought upwards again. This forms the body of the linen stitch which is completed by the second series of stitches, the same as in darning stitch (see fig. 16.) Fig.
1
3.
Darning
stitch.
When
stitch is to form a by carrying the threads
linen
corner, begin
over a prescribed
In this
first
should a fine
on the Darning
Change of
stitcli.
direction.
the
number
of squares.
the threads
must be
very slack, and in order that they
left
Fig. 14.
row
all
be of the same length lay or a coarse knitting needle
mesh last
square over which to stretch After finishing a few
threads.
squares in linen stitch, the auxiliary
mesh can be removed. The
threads of the
first
layer get shorter
by degrees through being constantly taken up and dropped by the passage of the second layer of threads until they are not
long enough to prevent the too
tightly
stretched.
last
embroidered squares becoming
Having reached the corner
cross the
(*) See also the Encyclopedia of Needlework by Th. de Dillmont, the chapter on Netting.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
l3
threads of the next row as shewn in figure 17. The first threads of the second side form the linen ground of the corner square from the second corner square pass to the third from the third ;
;
to the fourth, passing first
under and over
The
threads laid for the
old embroideries are done on very fine net, and the
linen stitch
Fig.
1
worked
is
5.
Linen
in
two
layers of threads only, that
Fig. 16. Linen
stitch
of four threads. Laying the fir^t stitches.
one journey little "figure
to
and
fro.
Laying
with linen
the.
second stitches.
Fig. 18. Linen stitth
of two threads.
illustrates, in the
two
layers of threads.
19, 20,
21).
—
Loop
working,
stitch is generally
transparent ground than- can be obtained
stitch.
There sre two kinds of loop slanting.
in
stiti.h
Figure 18
in linen stitch in
Loop stitch (figs. used to make a more
is
of four threads.
Fig. 17. Linen stitch of tour threads. Formation of the corners.
a
the-
corner..
stitch,
the straight and the
EMBROIDERY ON NET
14
to the middle of a then make a loop reaching to the middle of the next horizontal bar (fig. 19). These loops are always made from left to right the thread must be laid to the right and the needle passes downwards from above under the bar
For the straight kind fasten the thread
vertical bar of the net,
;
and
in front of the thread.
The
length -of the loop must be
half the height of the bars of the net.
For the second row turn the work, make a stitch over the vertical bar of the net, pass the thread under the bar of the net, as in the first row, then over the loop and under the bar which is under the loop. Figure 20 shews the way to join the rows of loop stitch together and how to pass the needle through the existing stitches.
Fig. 19. Straight loop stitch. First
Fig. 2b. Straight loop stitch.
and second journey.
Row
of stitches finished.
For slanting or diagonal loop stitch, fig, 21, you make the loop stitches round the knots, instead of round the bars of the net, so that the stitches quite naturally take a slanting direction.
The
thread must be carried round and not over the knots, and
regularly
plaited
on which account
it
is
sometimes
called
"plaited stitch".
As net
figure 21 shews,
and that makes
you can only fill every other stitch of the ground more transparent than the
this
preceding one.
Star composed of long straight stitches (figs. 22, 23, This star covers sixteen squares of net. Fasten your 24). 'thread to the middle knot of the sixteen squares, then carry it in a diagonal line from left to right, under a knot of the net.
—
5
EMBROIDERY ON NET bring
1
back towards the other extremity of the square formed the knot 22). This the underneath rays of
it
by the sixteen squares of net, slip the needle under and lay three threads in this same direction (see fig. forms
the star.
To make the stitches that complete the figure take the .starting
point as the centre and, following the direction of the arrow, cover the net with three threads in a vertical line
an dthree others
horizontal line
(fig.
in a
23).
That being done, slip the needle four or five times under the threads just laid never
—
under the threads of the net the back of the
work
Fig- 21- Oblique loop stitch.
— then fasten
off
your thread
at
(see the finished st^r, fig. 24).
Leaves in darningr stitch (figs. mostly used in making the often.-adorn embroidered net. The stitch
needle, starting from the middle,
—
ib and 26). fine
.
delicate
This
leaves
a
is
that
is
carried alternately to the right and
under the threads of the founand you push the stitches, as you make them, close together with the point of your needle. To make these stitches to perfection you must left
dation,
not forget to turn the work so as tb
have the finished stitches directed ,^'g- '^towards you. First you stretch the Star cemposed of long stitches. threads, as the engravmg J underneath1 threads. o o shews, to Laying the the number of two or three, and then make the leaf with one, often even with several veins. When the leaf has only one vein, as shewn in the left part of figure 26, the needle divides the prepared threads eqjaally into two, where, as in the case of wider leaves which would be improved by having two or more veins, you divide the threads accordingly ,
.
,
,
,
'
into three or four clusters.
,
'
,
.
.
,.
,
EMBROIDERY ON NET
i6
In embroidering leaves in darning stitch you should also be push the stitches more closely together at the two ends,
careful to
and leave them rather more play in the middle. Figure 26 shews two leaves completed one with one vein, the other with two. ;
.{
EMBROIDERY ON NET
'7
back to the starting point and up again to 'the middle. A foundation is thus prepared for the darning stitch, which should always be begun at the top of the scallop. Scallops in buttonhole stitch (fig. 2^). Another way quite as pretty and easy as the preceding is, making two button-
—
hole stitches before passing to the opposite side.
Veined scallops scallops
is
(fig.
29).
—
Fig. 27, Scallops in darning stitch.
A
and
to stretch a thread to
third
way
fro in the
left to
right
under the middle
thread and from above downwards under the
the needle
is
making
Fig. 28. Scallops in buttonhole stitch.
square, then slip the needle from
Fig. 29, Veined scallops.
of
middle of a
left
bar.
Then
Fig. 3o. Scallops in Venetian stitch.
passed from right to
left
over the stretched thread
and under the right bar, and so on.
The
thread must be drawn rather tightly round the one it encircles so that the stitches form a round and very even vein at the back of the scallop. Enough stitches must be made completely to cover the thread and fill the bottom of the square.
Scallops in Venetian stitch
(fig.
3o).
—
The
prettiest
which best suit the character of embroidered net are those done in Venetian stitch. You begin by making seven or scallops
EMBROIDERY ON NET on the bar of the net, then you conmaking the same stitch, to and fro, decreasing in each row by one stitch, until only one remains to be made, by which 3rou fasten the scallop to the top bar.
eight buttonhole stitches
tinue
The thread must be
carried
on the wrong
side to
the
next figure.
Wheels "worked in single darning stitch, and in interTo make these verted darning stitch (figs. 3i and 82). wheels, or spiders, as they are sometimes called, the thread is fastened on at the junction of four squares carried diagonally to the right and left (fig. 3i, left detail) across the empty space and brought back to the middle after winding it round the
—
;
>J_.5._^_-i_i._i^-'
I
f
Fig. 3i. Laying the for
;
,
making
a
first threads wheel,
and the beginning of
first.
I
I
u
t
Fig. 32.
Wheels
in single
and interverted
darning
a .wheel.
stitch.
These diagonal threads should be closely covered with
overcasting stitches to give
them the appearance
Bringing the thread back
to the centre, pass
over the diagonal threads as for the wheel to cover half a bar.
detail),
many
of a firm cord. it
times as
(see the leff is
necessary
Figure 32 shews on the right a finished wheel in single darstitch,, such as has just been described, whilst on the left you have a wheel done in interverted darning stitch, that is to
ning
say by dropping and picking up threads, as in darning.
The latter also shews how when the thread that forms the foundation of the wheel starts from a corner it f emains single in the first square until the wheel is finished; When it has attained the requisite circumference,
before the one which slip the
is
you stop the thread
as
it
passes
the continuation of the single thread, and
needle through the wheel, to double the thread
first laid.
EMBROIDERY ON NET Hibbed wheels
(fig,
33).
19
— Prepare a foundation the same as make
a back-stitch over
one bar
of the net, shp the needle under the next bar and go on
making
for the preceding wheels, then
back-stitches until the bars of the net are covered with them.
Bribbed lozenges tion
is
required
(fig. 34).
— For these
the back-stitches are
;
lozenges no founda-
made
directly
on
to the
bars of the net. Both sides of the wheels
and lozenges can be used in
work
;
shews
piece
a
of
the engraving
both
wrong and
the
right side.
Wheels
set with
loop stitch (fig. 35). Often a wheel
~
occurs in a big square of net which
cannot ciently
Fig. 33.
Ribbed wheels.
Fie. 35.
^ Wheels framed with loop
Fig. 34.
Ribbed lozenges
it
sufiifill;
it
may
then be framed with
whole or half loop
stitches
to
up the
fill
surrounding space.
The
left
part '^
.
,
. stitches. •
of our engra-
ving shews very distinctly how the thread, passing under the wheel and twisting once round the thread laid for the wheel, is carried round the square by. forming eight loops.
The arrow shews how you
pick
up the loops and
finish the
figure explains the laying of a second thread in
same the loops, and
make
a second circle.
first
how
circle
round the wheel. The second
the thread
The white
is
passed through them to
detail in the
line serves as guide for the stitches.
represents a finished wheel.
The
third detail
;
EMBROIDERY ON NET
20
—
Star with corners in buttonhole stitch (fig. 36). Few kinds of embroidered net are so quickly executed as the one shewn in fig. 36. Two buttonhole stitches on the outside and a single crossing of the thread below are all that is needed to make this pretty star. The middle square is ornamented with a little wheel.
—
Star with corners in darning stitch (fig. Sy). This figure shews us a pretty subject worked in darning stitch made over one laid thread and over four bars of the net.
The
left
part of the figure
shews the subject begun.
Floweret in dot on a linen ground
stitch (fig.
of
38).
dot
— With the help stitch
a
great
variety of supplementary
and ornaments can be produced on a foundation of linen stitches. details
Fig. 36. Star with corners in buttonlioie stitch.
It
would be
Framing the figUrOS. reproduce certain patterns on net unless and soften the outlines with darning stitches
difficult to
one could round
off
Or overcasting, as
shewn in the
subsequent figures.
Linen stitch framed with darning stitches (fig. 39).
—
In framing linen stitches at the corners with darning
ches they must be set less closely
you
may
stit-
much
than in figure 37 also,
instead
of
stopping the stitches at each corner, continue
them round
EMBROIDERY ON NET
21
round the figure and then overcast it or make a thick padding round the edges and embroider the outlines over the bars of the net as you do in white embroidery.
—
Outlines in darning and overcasting stitches. Freehand designs require outUnes and veins in darning or over-
made without
casting stitches, net,
as
illustrated
of our plates.
darning several
thread
The
in
outlines in
stitch
are
rounds
in
of
medium
overcasting a
regard to the squares of the
several
done a
size
coarser
in
pliable ;
for
thread
should be used for instance, Special stranded cotton D.M.C (Moulin^ special) N° 14 which ;
gives
more
Fig. 38. Floweret in dot stitch
on linen ground.
relief to the over-
casting.
—
Cut stitch (fig. 41) Here "cut work" means half covering the bars with buttonhole stitches
and cutting away the
other half with scissors. inside bars are often
The
ornamen-
with two-edged buttonholing and knotted picots. You separate very slightly the stit-
Fig. 39. Linen stitch framed with
darning
ted
ches of the
first
row of button-
holing so as to insert those of the second row between.
In
doing
cut
stitch
on
stitches.
l^HI
machine-made net you should strengthen only the outer side buttonhole
of the bars with
and leave out such picots as would come too close together, for the meshes of machine-made net are generally very small and the picots would touch each other. stitches
Fillings for
machine-made
stitches suitable for this purpose.
net.
—
They
Here we give
five
are easy to do and
EMBROIDERY ON NET
22
need little time or patience for which reasons they are generally used for big pieces of decorative work. These stitches are finished off outside by an embroidered outline of darning or ;
overcasting stitches, or else by a
Ground
waved
in
through every row
stitch
woven
(fig.
braid or twisted cord.
—
42).
Carry the thread
two squares and behind a knot and you have the stitch
of the net over
in question.
Ground worked in zontal rows
(fig. 43).
hori-
— Make
half crosses over four squares
of net, then carry the thread
under
tl^ree
Fig. 41.
across the
Cut
fifst
knots
and two
In the second row carry the thread one and you have the ground represented in
squares
of
the
net.
stitch.
the engraving.
Ground formed of intersected loop Cover three
stitches
(fig.
44).
—
a whole row of squares with cross-stitches and skip rows of stitches. When you have covered a sufficient number of rows with cross-stitches,
take a very long needleful of thread
and slip the needle upwards from below and from right to left under the two bars of the third top square ;
then come
down
to the first
square of the three lower rows and pass from right to left
under the bars, so
as to
leave an interval of three squares bej
Fig. 42.
Ground
in
waved
tween the new stitches. The next row of stitches is done in the same way
stitch.
so that the stitches are not only set contrariwise but cover each other reciprocally.
—
Latticed ground (fig. 45). Begin by- running the thread and fro under two vertical bars and over three horizontal ones. When the ground is quite covered, carry the thread from right to left under the bars where the threads of the first bars to
cross
each
other
;
then take the thread over the elongated
EMBROIDERY ON NET crosses, corresponding to five squares of tile
same
On
line
the
under the bars of the
way lines,-
tlie
net,
and pass
it
in
net.
hack, the long stitches intersect each other on
the stitches of the horizontal
23
first
rows.
The lower rows
are
worked
in
the upper in vertical.
—
Groiiiid in Russian stitch (fig. 46). Begin at the top, pass the thread, from right to left, under one bar of the net. ^
EMBROIDERY ON NET
24
page
1
and copied from one of the and most curious pieces of
2
oldest
antique
net
grounds worked thread,
all
In
existing.
all
the
two kinds of
in
the stitches that are to
be worked in the coarsest thread are to be worked first.
Ground in darning stitcli and The darning loop stitch (fig. 47). stitches with which you begin the ground are worked in the coarse thread as well as the almond-shaped
—
Fig. 47.
Ground
and loop
darning
in
stitcli.
ones that connect them stitches
are
made
in
;
the loop
the finer
thread.
Ground consisting of little and loop stitches (fig. — With a coarse thread 48).
-wheels
finish the wheels, only over the
whole surThen, with the fine thread surround them with loop stitches, worked in rows, as shewn in figure 20. bars, throughout the
face of the net.
Fig. 48.
Ground of
little
and buttonhole
wheels
stitch.
Ground consisting of squares in darning and loop stitch (fig. 49). Darning stit-
—
ches worked horizontally in the coarse-thread, over four squares
of the net, alternate with loop stitches in fine thread covering,
same number of squares. Diagonal ground with the squares framed (fig. 5o). the
~-
Fig. 49.
Ground
of squares in darning
and loop
stitch.
Pass
the needle with a coarse thread under the first knot, from right to left, then
diagonally under the next knot
EMBROIDERY ON NET
25
from
left to right. Repeat the same stitches twice, to and fro^ so that the squares of the net are framed with a double setting of stitches.
When take
the whole ground
the fine thread and
is
covered with these
.make loop
=i_i_Ji_ÂŤ,_J_ÂŤ^_4_J_{,_;_
stitches in
first stitches
the squares
EMBROIDERY ON NET
26
in the preceding pattern,
you frame
the squares of net with three rows
of stitches
worked
once more to and
to fro,
and fro, then, you make in
fine
thread, cross-stitches over the
first
ones.
Ground of squares in darning: and overcasting stitches (fig. 52.)
—
Grounds
Fig. 34.
them
in darning stitch with big wheels,
over
stit-
others
or
number
always present a heavier appearance than equal
GrounJ of squares
which darning
in
preponderate
ches
in
already described and should only be used therefore where a very well-covered, those
shaded surface Fill a
is
required.
diagonal line of squares
with darning
stitches,
i3,
fig.
an equal number in each square, then carry a thread between the squares and double it coming back b}' overcasting it. as close as possible, but
Fig. d5.
Ground with squares of darning stitch and little
Groundof big wheels.
wheels
(fig.
53).
- In
figure 53
you
fijl
the squares with darning stitches, as in figure 52,
and instead of making long
bars you introduce a wheel with four
spokes into each empty space.
Ground with squares of darning In and big wheels (fig. 54).
—
stitch
figure 54 the darning stitches
Ground in darning and cross-stitch.
Fig. 56.
ornamented with
big.
and the
wheels cover four squares of the Ground w^ith big wheels (fig.
—
Grounds of a wheels worked in
described in figures 24 to 26.
certain size either
net.
may
55i.
be
of the waj's
EMBROIDERY ON NET
27
—
Ground in darning stitch and cross-stitch (fig. 56). Begin, as before, witla the darning stitches and then do the To give the proper shape, finish cross-stitches.
rows
them all
next rows that cross
the
the
in one direction first; in
the
you insert the thread between the stitches first crossed. first
Ground figures
(fig.
of 57).
geometrical
— This stitch
which has no resemblance with the former ones is composed of simple geometrical lines.
Fasten the thread to a knot of the net, then pass it, always diago-
^'S-
^"- (Jround of iieometncal figures
under
nally
three
bars
other of
the
net and repeat this three
times
;
after
that twist the
thread
once
Fig. 58.
round the
Bordering in buttonhole stitch "on big-meshed
net.
bar of the net to fasten it, and come back to the knot already encircled and repeat the four rounds, as in the first instance. By always bringing fourth
the
thread
back
to
the
knot
where the next square is to begin you will have four threads stretched along two sides and five along the other two.
Detached lozenges are also often Fig. 59. Bordering in buttonhole stitch used for ornamenting wheels in on s'm all-meshed net. in this case the darning stitch thread is carried under the vertical and horizontal bars which formed the spokes of the wheel. ;
EMBROIDERY ON NET
28
Bordering in buttonhole stitch
(figsi
58 and Bg).
— Scallo-
ped edges in net should be buttonholed, always from right to left. A padding of several threads should be laid down first to give irelief -to the buttonhole stitches, you then cover the bars of the net entirely, making besides, three to five stitches over the knots of the net turned outwards the knots turned inwards ;
and the bars of the net must not be cut until the whole border is- finished. Fig. 58 shews a bordering buttonholed on large-meshed net, which gives very square scallops. On small-meshed net the scallops round themselves in the working, as seen in fig. 59. are skipped
To
embellish the buttonholed bordering a picot braid
may
be sewn on to the outside.
—
Note. For the washing, ironing and pinning out of embroideries on net see the chapter "Miscellaneous Directions' in the
Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Th^rese de Dillmont.
Persons wishing for further directions regarding the execution of the patterns contained
in
EMBROIDERY ON NET
or the materials mentioned therein should address themselves to the firm of
TH. DE DILLMONT, who
will
at
MULHOUSE (Alsace)
immediately furnish them with the required information.
Patterns
of Embroideries on Net (20 Plates)
XIV
Plates I to
contain various unpublished patterns
for laces, strips and grounds.
Plate net,
is
XV,
copied from an old piece of embroidered
composed of
strips
joined
together by
a
con-
necting stitch. Plate
work
XVI
represents a fragment of an old piece of
exhibited in Paris,
Plates
XVII
to
XX
suitable for a piece
Plate
XVI.
at
the Cluny
Museum.
contain 12 subjects on a big scale
of work
like the
one represented
in
Plate
EMBROIDERY ON
i
NiET
I
Plate
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroideries on net to be worked with the
D.M.C Cotton, Flax and
Silk articles
11
Plate III
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroideries on net to be worked with the
D.M.C Cotton, Flax and
Silk articles
Plate
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroideries on net to be worked with the D.M.C Cotton, Flax and Silk articles
IV
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VI
Plate VII
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroideries on net to be worked with the
D.M.C Cotton, Flax and
Silk articles
Plate VIII
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroidery on net
to be
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Plate XI
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Plate XIII
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroidery on net to be worked with the D.M.C Cotton, Flax and Silk articles
Plate
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroidery on net to be worked with the D.M.C Cotton, Flax and Silk articles
XIV
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EMBROIDERY ON NET
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Plate XVIII
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XIX
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^
XX
D-M-C LIBRARY Tn order to encourage
and develope the
taste for
needlework
and to make the use of the numerous articles specially manufactured by them for sewing and embroidery more widely known the Societe anonyme Dollfus-Mieg & C'ÂŤ, have issued a series of publications forming a complete library in itself, which treats with every form and description of of
all
kinds
needlework.
Each album consists of a series of unpublished and very varied accompanied by an explanatory text with the assistance of which it will be found easy to execute even the most compatterns,
plicated designs.
Although in artistic value, in the selectitjn of the patterns and the care expended on the execution, these publications surpass every thing till now produced of the kind, they are offered at a price greatly below their value that they: could be produced under such favorable conditions is due solely to the size of the editions and the object in view. ;
AH
needlework publications are edited in French and German, in English. As the text however is but of secondary
and some
importance while the designs are the principal feature, all these works can be used to great advantage even in the countries where other languages are spoken than those in which they are edited.
Further on will be found a list of these publications, which had of all booksellers, mercers and embroidery shops, or if necessary direct from the publisher Th. de Dillmont, are to be
MuLHOusE
(Alsace).
— —
:
List of the publications of the D-M-C Library
* Encyclopedia of Needlework A handsome volume
by 1107 engravings. English
of about 800 pages illustrated
Bound
binding. Gilt top.
in-i6
Price
.,
:
1/3
* Albums for Cross-Stitch Embroidery * In-4'',
ALBUM
I
:*
Price
32 plates with 278 designs. Artistic cover
ALBUM
:
1/3
II
40 plates with i36 colored designs, comprising several alphabets. Artistic
In-4°,
cover
* ln-4°,
40 plates with
La An album
1
ALBUM
2/—
:
III":
Price
82 designs
:
1/8
Broderie au Pass6 (Flat stitch Embroidery) accompanied by tracings Polychrome cover
in-4° of 20 plates
with explanatory
text.
Le An album
Price
f
in-4°,
for
reproducing the designs, Price
S/
:
Filet-Richelieu (French net work)
of 3o plates with explanatory text. Artistic cover
.
.
.
.Price
2/
;
Alphabets et Monogrammes (Alphabets and Monograms) An album
in-4''
(oblong shape) with
gilt
composed of 60
edges,
explanatory text
plates witfi
Price
:
Motifs de Broderie copte (Motifs for Copte Embroidery) This work
is
divided into
3
parts each of
which
tory text. Artistic cover. In-4"
Le Two albums
is
2/
,
accompanied by an explanaPrice
'
:
2/
— each
Tricot (Knitting, P' and II"* Series)
in-4'',
containing
the
first
72,
and
the
knitting. Artistic cover
second 63 patterns, for Price
2/—
:
each.
Le Macramd (Macram^) An album (*)
The
in-4''
°f
'^~
publications
p'ates with explanatory text. Artistic cover
marked with an
asterisk (*J and
are edited in English.
Prices no longer in force
of which the
title
Price: 2/
is
underlined
LIST OF THE PUBLICATIONS OF THE
La (Net
Two
albums
in-4'>,
D.M.C
LIBRARY
Broderie sur Lacis
work embroidery, composed of 20
!»*
and
II"<i
Series)
plates each with explanatory text.
cover
Price
Artistic
1/3 each.
:
* The Embroiderer's Alphabet An album
in-i6, containing 82 colored plates composed of alphabets, monograms and patterns for counted stitch embroideries, followed by jo plates of monograms and festoons with tracings for white' embroidery. Attractive
cover
Price
*
New
5^-
:
Patterns in Old Style
Work
divided into two parts each of which is composed of 12 plates, accomeach Price 3/ panied by an explanatory text and figures. In-4°
—
:
* The Net Work Containing 28 pages of text with explanatory figures and 20 plates with patterns Price 5 '' for embroidery on net. Artistic cover, Iij-8° :
Le Crochet (Crochet Work,
I^t
and
II""i
Series)
Two albums in-4'', containing the first C4, and the second 67 patterns for crochet work and a detailed description of the patterns. Artistic cover Price: 3/ each.
—
* Crochet Work, An album
III'''^
Series
in large octavo, containing 12 plates with a great variety of patterns
for crochet
work and an explanatory
text
with figures
Price
lO''-
:
* Drawn thread W^ork An album
in-8»,
planatory
of 20 plates containing a great variety of patterns and an exPrice 5 •' cover
text. Artistic
:
Recueild'Ouvrages divers (Collection of various kinds of works) An album
in-4'
Price
of 35 plates containing 242 engravings with explanatory text
;
1/8
Motifs pour Broderies (Motifs for Embroideries,
I^*
and
11"^ Series)
Two albums in-8", each containing 32 colored plates, composed of grounds, borders, floral designs etc., also a series of tracings to facilitate the reproPrice: 1/— each. ducing and enlarging of the patterns (*)
The
publications marked with an asterisk
are edited in English.
(*)
and of which the
title
is
underlined
THE PUBLICATIONS OF THE
LIST OF
* Motifs
for
Embroideries
and
(IIF'^
D.M.C
LIBRARY
IV*'^ Series)
Two albums in large octavo, each
containing 20 colored plates, composed of various designs in modern style, for embroidery on counted threads. .Price Q^- each. :
La
Dentelle Renaissance (Point lace)
Containing 76 pages of text with explanatory figures, 10 plates withoiit text and 10 patterns on cambric for executing tlie designs reproduced on these plates. In-8°
Price
1/8
:
* Teneriffe Lace W^ork An album
in-8",
of 20 plates containing patterns for wheels, borders and lace text. Artistic cover Price: Si"!
and an explanatory
Point de croix Nouveaux dessins (Cross Stitch New Designs, P* Series) •
•
An album
in-8»,
containing 24 colored plates, composed of grounds, borders for cross-stitch embroideries Price 3 } •
and various subjects
* Cross Stitch
:
New
•
Designs
(II"*^
and Ilpd Series)
Two albums in large octavo, each
containing 20 colored plates composed of grounds, borders and various subjects for cross-stitch embroideries Price: 4^- each.
* Hardanger Embroideries Album
in large octavo, containing 36 plates composed ot a number of patterns openwork embroidery on counted threads 20 pages of text with explanatory figures accompany the plates Price 8^for
;
:
* Marking Album
in-S"
Stitch,
P* Series
containing 12 colored plates composed of alphabets, for counted stitch embroideries
and patterns
» Album
monograms Price
i
Irish
:
I''-
Crochet Lace
pages of text with numerous explanatory figures and 7 plates of patterns for Irish crochet lace, to which are added tracings on linen for reproducing the patterns illustrated "on the plates Price 1/5 in large octavo, 53
:
(*)
The puplications marked with an
are edited in English.
asterisk {*)
and of which the
title
is
underlined
:
anonyme
Thie Soci^t^
DOLLFUS-MIEG & 0%
Mulhouse-Belfort-Paris
manufacture and put on sale under the trade mark
DMC work
articles specially intended for embroidery, sewing, knitting, crochet, lace
and in general
COTTON, These
needlework
for all kinds of
articles are
made
l_(NEN
in the following materials
AND
SILK
in all sizes in ecru, white, black
and
all
colours.
They are to be had in embroidery and haberdashery shops etc. ; but the variety of articles manufactured by the Soci^te anonyme Dollfus-Mieg & C'°, bearing the D.M.C trade mark, is so great that it is impossible for even the best furnished shops to keep them all in stock. But as houses that are in connection with this firm or its agents are able to procure any of the D.M.C articles in small consignments, customers can always be supplied through them with all they require.
—
—
Cotton : Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) Cotton lace thread (Fil k dente'le). Demi-Alsatian (Demi-Alsace). Bell thread Tiers-Alsatian (TiersrAlsace). (Fil 4 la cloche). Embroidery cotton Embroidery cottons (Cotons a broiler). special quality (Coton a broder qualite speciale). Pearl cotton (Coton perle). Shaded pearl cotton (Perle ombre). Chine for crochet knitting, etc. Special stranded cotton (Moulin^ special). Crochet cotton 6 cord (Cordonnet 6 fils). Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet qualite spiciale). Crochet cotton, bell mark (Cordonnet a la cloche). Crochet cotton* (Coton pour crochet). Knitting cottons (Cotons a tricoter). Hosiery Fluted cotton (Coton cannele). cottons yCotons pour bonneterie). Stranded Felting cotton (Coton 4 feutrer) cotton 8 threads (Mouline 8 fils). Darning cottons (Cotons a repriscr). Darning cottons special quality (Cotons 4 repriser qualite speciale). Sewing cottons superior quality and good quality (Cotons a coudre qualite superieure et bonne qualite). Sewing cottons and bell tacking- cottons (Cotons a coudre et a batir el la cloche). Special thread for sewing machines (Fils speciaux pour Marking « Alsa ». machines k coudre). Marking cottons (Cotons a marquer). Knotting cotton cottons special quality (Cotons k marquer qualitd spiciale). Knitting cotton (Fil a pointer). Alsatian crochet cotton (Cibl^ d'Alsace).
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
— —
—
—
—
—
— — —
— —
— —
—
—
(Relors pour mercerie). Knitting cotton bell mark special quality Superfine braid and braid (Retors special pour mercerie). « Alsatia ». Alsatian twist special I" quality (Lacet superfin d'Alsace et Lacet 1" qualiti). quality (Retors d'Alsace qualite speciale), etc., etc. boll
mark
Flax threads
—
—
— —
Floss flax or Flax embroidery thread (Lin a broder). Flax Stranded flax thread (Lin mouline). floche). Flax lace thread thread for knitting and crochet (Lin k tricoter et 4 crocheter). (Lin pour dentelles). Washing silk: Stranded silk (Soie moulin^e). —Persian silk (Soie de Perse). :
—
flourishii.g thread (Lin
Gold and Silver
:
Gold and
silver
embroidery threads (Or
—
et argent fins
pour
la broderie).
The following strokes placed
numbers of the numbers indicate
tables give the
beside
thickness of the thread.
the
of the above articles ; the each case the corresponding
si:(es
in
List indicating the
tU. /150\ s!!? oI
^
"
DMC
\80
Ki^r.y
ALSATIAN THREAD, DEMI-ALSATIAN (Fil
d'Alsace, Deml-Alsace)
TIERS-ALSATIAN and COTTON LACE THREAD, 9 cord (Tiers-Alsace et Fil
30
.
36
.
4Q.
50
60
i denteiie, 9 brins)
numbers and
sizes
of the
D.M.C n
threads in Cotton
List indicating the
numbers and
sizes of the
as well as the
MARKING COTTON (Coton k marquer)
KNITTING COTTON
CROCHET COTTON 4 CORD
(Coton k trlooter)
(Crochet 4
fils)
6 8
•
a
I
10
i
10
I
12
1
12
I
U
'
10
12 IS
14'
20 18 24
18-
30
35
16
<
-
18'
20.
20'
'
25
40
<
30
45
'
SO
-
60
'
35-
24
'
30
'
40
40. 50
.
LIN
POUR
70
DENTELLES
80
DMC
90 100 120
FLAX LACE THREAD
150
(Lin pour dentelles)
200
KNITTING COTTON
bell
mark
(Retors pour meroerle) 12 •
16 •
20-
10
15
•
3525
.
k pointer)
40. 30
10
I
15.1
20
30
J
'
-
30
20
KNOTTING COTTON (Fll
25
35
4550
40-
60
50
70
D.M.C registered trade mark D.M.C
D-M-C
threads in Cotton, Flax and Silk,
widths of braids. s.
4
I
6
I
810 15
.
20
.
3040 SO
'
6070
80 80
3
I
5
I
6
I
8
I
10
I
12 16
.
20
•
25 30
.
35
•
40
-
SO
-
60
-
70
-
100
-
150 -
Printed by the Socil^Ti anonyme
DOLLFUS-MIEG & O"
*^^!~-l^>^-
4-^v^
ms
S^P^