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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
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< PRICE,
$5,000-
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
THE SCIENTIFIC
Lady Tailor System FOR
CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES *? COATS.
NO FITTING TO
DO.
IMPROVED AND SIMPLIFIED
SECOND EDITION.
AS
TAUGHT BY
^PROF. LOUIS MOLPOERO WASHINGTON,
D. C.
,
V
"AUG
?
8
11
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Important Notice.
No
person shall have any right, whatever, to
manner first
my
Lady
Scientific
procured from me, or
my
Tailor
System
use
in
any
without having
authorized agent, a book signed
by me. Entered according
act
to
of
Congress, on the
March, 1891, by Louis Molpoer,
in
of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
fifth
day of
the office of the Librarian
No. of copyright, 8375.
All rights reserved.
Sfiis
is
lo
dectify,
Thai
M use
my
Improved System of Dress Cutting, for which has been paid
the
has the right
to
sum of $5.00.
Teaching
I agree to use the said
not
teach
it
to
system
for
my own
any one without the
the owner, or a duly authorized agent.
i
I
A)
O
use only, and will
written
consent
of
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Rules for Basting.
A basting thread must be run on the line of the waist. Baste carefully, that lining and outside are perfectly smooth. In basting up the waist, pin at the waist and arm lines, and The most troublesome seam in hold long seam next to you. the whole waist is the curved side body seam, which comes next to the back. In basting this seam on one side of the back commence at the waist line and go up as in other seams, holding The other side must be the outward curved seam toward you. pinned at the waist line, and at intervals up the seam, then commence basting at the top, holding the outward curved seam toward you, as on the other side. In sewing up seams do not have the machine stitch too short, or it will draw. Nick the seams, so that the waist will spring nicely into the If you wish to finish figure, and then press them all open. with tailor-like neatness, bind the seams with ribbon. No hook and eye pieces are required, but instead a waistband should be put inside the dress to keep it in place. One-half inch is enough, except All seams must be allowed. under the arms, where the seams should be somewhat deeper. It is absolutely necessary to use a tracing wheel in order to have your lines perfectly true. After the dress is well cut, it must be made with great care, paying strict attention to the rules. in plush likeIn cutting velvet, the nap must be run up wise in sealskin, down. In cutting plaid be sure to match the stripes in waist, skirt and trimming, which can always be done. If the silesia, drilling, or other material used for lining the It is economy waist, is cut crossways it is less apt to stretch. to use a good quality of material for lining, as a poor lining will wear out sooner than outside goods, and the result will be that the seam will stretch, and the waist lose its shape. A dress should not be made so tight as to draw. The corset should be pulled in as required, and the waist should be fitted The seams will stretch over it easily and without wrinkles. and fray out if this rule is not followed. The same corset should be worn with the dress it was measured and fitted over, as different corsets change the figure. A dressmaker should make it a rule never to measure a lady over old or ill-fitting corsets. ;
;
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
The Purpose book
This
Cutting, and
intended to explain the
is is
Book.
of This
Dress
of
principles
founded on systematic rules, by which any one
can learn to measure, draft, baste, cut,
fit
and make dresses
without further instruction.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
To Dressmakers.
It will
be of great use to the professional
dressmakers, who, like the inventor, have had the same sad
experience in the use of
To Ladies
in
other charts and systems.
all
Private Life.
use of those ladies
who wish
as
;
the ladies themselves, or
more
To Young Ladies. it
will
more
superintend
to
to
it
at
devote
work.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Young
of those
times
work be done by
have more time
ladies, to
teaches will be valuable.
Most
dresses
or percale dress, as one of
they choose
if
artistic
spending at least six to trade.
own
trouble or more to
If this class of
home, professional dressmakers
system
adapted to the
their
the making would often be three
as the original cost.
to the finer or
It is as
make much
yet few ladies are willing to pay as much,
for it is probable that
much
It is especially
to alter or
for home and morning wear. a dressmaker to make a chintz
expensive material
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
eight
who do
you
this
Many
of
book and the
you
object to
months' time in learning the but wasting their time.
this are
There are few who are taught the art of measuring, drafting, by rule, basting and fitting, and that all seams are
or cutting
put together differently others should be held
who never allowed
in.
;
some having In
fact,
their apprentices
necessary things, but kept them special
branch,
such as quilling,
making, overcasting,
etc.
to
be stretched, while
we have known dressmakers to get a
glimpse of these
continually employed in one ruffling,
fluting,
button-hole
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
The time has now come when a young be considered unfinished unless she
We
guarantee
Curves and Neck its
Arm
perfect
we
Test Dress to Prove
Never take Dress
judge
We
its
lady's education will
an adept
in this art.
Sleeves, Busts, Darts,
Holes,
without Refitting.
simplicity and beauty, and
is
It is
simply perfect
are pleased to cut
in all
any one
Merits.
instructions
in
any system without having Test
and tried on. Many claim to be self-fitting, but yourself whether the fit is good or bad.
cut for
have tried
all
these so-called Tailor Systems, and do not
wonder that experienced dressmakers are disgusted with them. Practice and experience enable us to say that we have yet to record a single failure in the use of our
New
system.
our experience and the basis of our system, that with-
It is
out a perfect arm hole
is
it
impossible to have perfect fitting
waist and sleeves.
Our system made without
is
the only one by which a perfect sleeve can be
a particle of alteration.
both for measuring and
mistake
is
Many
rules are so plain
with
ordinary
inquire,
"
What
is
the difference
Lady Tailor System, and the other
?
care a
almost impossible. will
Scientific
Systems
drafting, that
The
"
Taught from pasteboard,
with
between the
so-called Tailor
imitation
square
attached, which are only a deception and fraud, as no person will ever
By
be able to use a square without the attachment.
Lady Tailor System, you will be tailor, by the tape measure alone,
learning the Scientific
competent to
cut
like
a
designated from any fashion plate, either English, French or
American
styles.
This can be learned in a very short time
few hours will instruct a dressmaker without of any pattern.
;
a
refitting or the use
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Measure 1.
for Drafting
Basque.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. Length
5.
Back.
of
bottom of the
belt,
and
— From
if
the bone of the neck to the
the lady
is
long waisted there
extension below the belt varying from
one
one
to
is
an
and one-
fourth inches, which should always be added to the length of
back below
line 1.
Neck Measure.
6.
over the inside
—
Place the tape around the up over the shoulder blades closely.
Length of Front.
8.
the tape around the neck, close
collar.
Bust Measure.
7.
of the bust
—Place
— Front
fullest
neck
part
hollow
in
the
shoulder
to
shoulder across the
to
lower
part of belt. Chest
9.
Measure.
— From
chest.
— From the bottom of the Height of Hip. — From the down the Hip Measure. —Around the hip over the Shoulder Measure. — From the neck end Neck Elbow Measure. — Place the hand Height of Dart.
10. 11.
belt up.
belt
12.
to
hip bone.
bustle.
13.
of shoulder.
to
14.
to
to
the neck
before measuring, then pass the tape from the neck over point of shoulder to the point of elbow. Inside Measure to the
15. close
Bend
of the Arm.
— Place the tape
up under the arm and measure to the inside bend of the
elbow. 16.
Inside
Measure
to
Wrist.
in direction 15, bring tape on
—While
down
you have the tape
to the wrist,
as
and note both
measures. 17.
Upper
Arm Meamre.
—Around
the arm.
The same
for
middle and lower arm measures, keeping the arm bent so the
muscles 18.
the arm
will
expand.
Elbow Measure. is
— Place the tape around the elbow when
straight, then
the point of the
elbow.
bend the arm, keeping the tape over
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
11).
Wrist Measure.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Place
the tape around the hand over
the thumb, so the sleeve will be just large enough for the hand to slip through.
20. belt
Skirt Measure.
and bring
out, while the
inches longer
down
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Place
the
tape
bustle
is
bottom of the
which
is
placed
The back should be two
lady stands upright. if
at the
to the top of the right foot,
Skirt should vary in width
wanted.
according to the size of the wearer, from two and one-eighth
Two and
yards to two and one-half.
one-eighth for a
medium
sized lady.
Always Use a Never take to
a measure without
Belt.
using a belt, as you are likely
take back length too long, which will cause wrinkles on the
hips and
observe
much length between arm and neck. Strictly in rules the book and we guarantee a fit without
too
all
alteration.
The use of curvatures is to get even lines unless you do this your seams will not be straight, which causes wrinkles. ;
There are a very few who are able
to
curve without the aid of
curvatures.
Draw
straight lines,
Curve even seams. Trace
-
-
in the lines,
-
Stitch straight.
Press seams open,
-
-
-
10
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
BASQUE
No,
COPYRIGHTED.
11
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Basque No.
Directions for 1.
Draw
1.
line 1 eight inches
from the bottom of the paper
line 2 the height of
under arm measure above linel.
for belt line. 2.
Draw
3.
Draw
line
Draw
line 1
3 the
diameter of arm eye measure above
line 2. 4.
the length of back above line 1, one inch
from the edge of the paper to the right and add the extension below
line 1.
5.
Dot
to the left of line 4,
draw
of the back, and
line
on lines 1 and
3, half
the width
5 through dots just made, from line
3 to line 1. 6.
of the
Dot to the left of line 5, on lines 1 and 3, the diameter arm eye measure and draw line 6 through the dots just
made from
line 3 to line 1.
Dot on lines 1 and 3, to the left of line 4, half the bust measure, and draw line 7 through clots just made from line 3 down the w hole length of front. 7.
T
8.
Draw
slanting diameter of square,
mark from the junction 9.
Draw
T
line
of lines 3 and 5,
by drawing
and 3 and
a cross
6.
8 to the left of line 4, one-sixth of the neck
measure, for back of the neck. 10. lines 2
11.
Draw and
Dot
below
line
to dot
A.
line 9
6, for
A 1,
is
from the end of
back shoulder
line.
one inch to the
and draw a
line 8 to the junction of
line
left
of the end of line 4,
from junction
lines 8
Take half the space between 5 and 6, on line make dot K, draw slanting w aist line from dot A to draw to the end of line 7. 12.
T
and 4
1,
K
and and
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
12
Dot
13.
to the
right
neck measure and draw 3, one-half of
ture from
7 on line 3, one-fourth the
of line
10 up from dot just made on
line
line
an inch less for front of neck, and use neck curva-
end of
the
line
10
one-half of an inch
to
below
line 3 to line 7.
14.
Draw
11 from top of neck to junction of 3 and
5.
15.
Place the end of the rule at the top of neck, letting
it
line
cross center of the square and measure
neck
for shoulder
To the
16. line
take
2,
from the top of the
and make a dot the length of the shoulder.
right of line
7,
one and one-half inches above
chest measure and
half the
make
a dot where
half the chest measure comes.
To curve the arm eye,
17.
and 2 on
lines 9
the
junction
line 5
of lines 9
first
take half the space between
and make dot F, and then curve from and 5 to dot V. and then round to
half the space between lines 5 and 6 on line 2 and then up
through above
the
line
chest
measure and up
11, the height of
the back shoulder
line,
to shoulder
measure and
arm eye measure, then measure
and make the front shoulder one-quarter
of an inch shorter, and curve
from the top of the arm eye
to
top of the neck.
One inch
18.
the space between dot
dot
C.
waist
Dot
line.
D
A, make dot B, take half
to the left of dot
is
Dot E
A
and
5 on waist line and
line
one-half inch to is
the
one-half inch
to
right
the
of line left
of
make 5
on
slanting
diameter to the right in arm eye. 19.
Place large
end
of
curvature at
dot
B and draw
a
curved line to one-fourth of an inch above dot F, and curve
down
to half the
inside of back, use curvature the it
F and E in arm eye for same way from dot C, letting
space between dot
;
touch back line at line 2 for outside of side body. 20.
Use ihe curvature the same
for inside of side
body.
way from
dot
D
to dot
E
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Measure the space between
21.
w aist
line, for
darts
is
T
lines 6
13
and 7 on slanting
The space between
darts, in four equal parts.
found by measuring three-eighths of an inch on each
side of the center mark.
Draw
22.
a line in each center of space for darts, front dart
according to measure, and
back dart one-fourth inch higher,
and slanting back one-fourth inch, then curve
by
darts
for
placing the small end of curvature on the end of each line and
curve to waist
line.
Curve the back of neck from end of
23.
line 9 to one-half
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front
neck to half of neck measure and make a
Curve front of
(dot.)
make rounding
waist from this dot one-half inch above line 2,
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch,
and out
bottom of paper.
to line 7 at
To
24.
find the
D
measure from
to
back
C
for
and under arm gore, side body, and from B to A for back, line of the front
B
omitting the space between
curved
and C, and then from the front
line to front dart, omitting the
width of darts, measure
the space between the darts and from the back dart to half the
waist measure and
G
space between
Draw
25.
of front to
E
make
dot G.
G
If
then use rule 24 of No. 2 Basque,
line 5
for
to the right of
not measure half the
and back dart and make dot H.
arm eye straight for back and front of under arm gore, and draw line 13 from G back of under arm gore. line
Extend
26.
comes if
12 from
lines 4
II
and 7
up
to
to the
bottom of paper and center
of darts, slanting back one-fourth inch, also outside lines
lines
of darts, leaving one-half inch each side the center lines at the
bottom of paper. 27.
Measure
for hip line on lines 7
height of hip and draw line 14
and
H
28.
end of
on hip
line,
Draw back line 4 at
exactly below line
from
A
and 4
;
from
for hip line. letters
on waist
line 1
Mark
C,
the
D,
G
line.
to one-half inch to the left of
bottom of paper with
rule.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
14
Draw
29.
paper with 30.
right of
D
the
sloped from
G
on hip
on hip
Back of
P. S.
one inch to the
left
is
sloped from
G
one inch to
is
sloped from
H
one inch to
front
H
sloped from II
is
on hip
add on or take
measuring
off to suit the hip
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Always baste the
putting on the garment.
one and one-fourth
line.
If too large or too small after line,
D
to the
line.
inches to the right of 35.
bottom of
to
line.
Front of under arm gore
34.
down
line.
left of II
on hip
is
Back of under arm gore
the right of 33.
straight
Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch C on hip line with curvature.
on hip
32.
B
rule.
Front of side bod}^
31.
of
inside of back from
all
the places
measure.
sleeves in, and the collar on, before
16
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
BASQUE
No. 2,
COPYRIGHTED.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Basque No.
Directions for
17
2.
Proceed as in Basque No. 1 until you get to rule 24.
One inch to the left of dot K, on waist line, make dot H, and draw line 12 from II up to arm eye straight for back 24.
of front
then measure side body, back and front, and take
;
the remainder of the waist measure of
K
line
;
put one half to the right
and make dot G, the other half
and make dot I
draw
;
under arm gore, draw front of under
arm
Extend
25.
to the left of
13 from
line
G
to
E
K for
on waist
back of
14 from I up to top of line 12 for
line
gore.
and 7 to the bottom of paper and center
lines 4
lines of darts, slanting
back one-fourth inch, also outside lines of
one-half inch each side the center lines at the
darts, leaving
bottom of paper.
Measure
26.
for hip line
on lines 7 and 4 from line
height of hip, and draw line 15 for hip
H
and
Draw back
27.
end of
line
paper with 29. right of
left of
31.
from
on waist
the
line.
to one-half inch to the left of
B
down
straight
to
bottom of
rule.
of the side
C on
hip
body
on hip
is
is
sloped from
C one
inch to the
D
one inch to the
line.
Back of under arm gore
G
sloped from
line.
Front of side body
D
A
inside of back from
Back
the right of 32.
line
letters
1,
C, D, G,
4 at bottom of paper with rule.
Draw
28.
30.
below
I on hip line, exactly
Mark
line.
on hip
G
is
sloped from
is
sloped from I three-fourths
one inch to
line.
Front of under arm gore
of an inch to the left of I on hip line. 33.
Back
of front
inches to the right of 34.
on hip
H
is
sloped
on hip
from
II
one and one-fourth
line.
If too large or too small after measuring line,
add on or take
off to suit the hip
all
measure.
the places
18
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
BASQUE FOR FRENCH BIAS DART. COPYRIGHTED.
19
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
French Bias Dart. Proceed as
To
21.
in
Basque No.
the right of line
measure and make a and
1 until 7,
you get
to rule 21.
on waist line take half the chest
between
dot, divide the space
Curve the darts
7 into four equal parts for darts.
line
this dot
the same as in plain basque with the exception of curving the
back
of the
measure
dart,
which
curved
is
below the waist
through the chest
line.
Curve the front of the waist the same as
22.
No.
back
to four inches
in
basque
1.
Three-fourth inch to the left of line 5
23.
make
G
dot
and
left of dot G make dot H, on waist line draw a line from H up to arm eye straight for front of under arm gore, and draw line 13 from G to E for back of under arm
three inches to the
gore.
Then measure from H to G to C for side body, from B
24.
D
from
front curved
back bias curve
down
P. S.
A
to half
and from dot.
H
and
line
the waist measure, dot on waist line for front.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Half
(dot)
the waist
measure
left
of
should
K,
if
not
come within
make under
larger or smaller.
Extend
lines 4
and 7
to the
bottom of the paper, and
darts and outside lines of front dart and left
centre
lines of
side of
back dart to three-eighths of an inch from centre
at
lines
bottom of paper. 26.
hip,
G
from
measure and make a
which makes the back of the
arm gore
for back,
end of curvature to the top of
one-quarter inch either to right or
25.
to
space between the darts and
half the waist
dart to
Place the small
line 12,
to dart,
line
under arm gore, and
for
Measure
below
and
H
for
line 1,
on hip
hip line on lines 4 and 7 the height of
and draw
line
line
14
for hip line.
exactly below letters on waist
Mark line.
C, D,
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
20
Draw
27.
outside of back from
A
to
down
one-half inch to
the left of line 4 at bottom of the paper with rule.
Draw
28.
inside of back from
B
straight
down
bottom
to
of paper with rule. 29. right
Back of side body is sloped from C one inch of C on hip line with curvature. Front of side body
30. left
of
D
on hip
Back
31.
to the right of
of under
G on
inch to the left of
H
line.
D
one inch to the
is
sloped from
G
to one inch
hip line.
on hip
line to
from back bias dart hip
arm gore
gore
is
sloped
from
II
one-half
line.
Then measure under arm
from front curved
line for
sloped from
line.
Front of under arm
32.
33.
is
to the
body and back and the dart space between the darts and gore, side
to half the hip
measure and make a dot on
Curve from line 12 on waist line to this dot on hip back of
front.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Rules for Proceed as
Two Under Arm in
21
Gores â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Bias Dart.
basque for French Bias Dart
until
you get
to
under arm gores.
body and one-half inch to the right on waist line and dot I to the left of dot G the width of side body, and draw line 14 from I up to arm eye straight for front of front under arm gore and draw line 13 from G up to half the space between dot E and top of line 11 in arm eye for back of front under arm gore.
Take width of
1.
K
of dot
side
and make dot
G
Again take width of side body and one-half inch to left K, make dot L and dot N to the right of L the width of side body and draw line 15 from L up to top of line 13 in arm eye for front of back under arm gore. Draw line 16 from N to 2.
of dot
dot
E
for
back of back under arm gore.
Measure from I to G and from L to N for under arm gores, and then from D to C for side body, and from B to A for back, and from front curved line to dart space between darts, and from back bias dart to half the waist measure and 3.
make
Use small end of curvature from top of line 14 to dot just made on waist line for back of front, which makes a dot.
line 12. 4.
Proceed for hip measure as
in
basque above with the
exception of under arm gores which are curved one-half inch to right and left of letters on hip line. Measure under arm gores, side body, back from front curved line to dart, space
between
the darts from the back bias dart to half the hip measure and
make
a dot on hip line, and curve from end of line 12 on waist line to dot just made on hip line for back of front.
22
EVERY LADY
ITER
OWN DRESSMAKER.
BASQUE FOR TWO UNDER ARM GORES. COPYRIGHT*:!).
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
Basque Proceed as
Two Under Arm
for
Basque No.
in
1 until
you get
23
Gores.
to rule 24.
One and one-half inches to the left of dot H, and draw line 12 from dot II up to arm eye 24.
K
make dot
straight for
measure side body back and front take half of the remainder of the waist measure and put equally to and make dot G, and to the left of dot H make the right of
back of
front, then
;
K
dot
I,
and draw
E
tween dot from dot I
line
13 from dot
and end of
to top of
gore, and then take
up
12, which
line
the
G
to half the space be-
12 in arm eye, and draw line 14
line
remaining
makes
front under
arm
portion of waist measure
and one-half inch to the left of dot K make dot L and dot N to the right where the remainder of the waist measure comes, and draw dot
L up
to top of line
Extend
25.
N
16 from dot
line
lines 4
lines of darts, slanting
to dot E, and draw line 15 from which makes back under arm gore.
13,
and 7 to the bottom of paper and centre back one-fourth inch, also outside lines of each side the centre lines at the
darts, leaving one-half inch
bottom of paper.
Measure
26.
for hip line
on
lines
height of hip, and draw line 17 for hip L,
H
and I on hip
end of
line
line
from
A
to one-half inch
4 at bottom of paper with
Draw
28.
inside of
Mark
C,
exactly below letters on waist
line,
Draw back
27.
7 and 4 from line 1, the line.
back from
B
D, N, G, line.
to the left of
rule.
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with rule. 29. right
Back of the side body of C on hip line.
30. left of
Front of side body
D
on hip
line.
is
is
sloped from
sloped from
D
C one inch
to the
one inch to the
24
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 3
1
.
Back of back under arm gore
half inch to the right of
N
arm gore
L
is
sloped from
on hip
is
line.
sloped from
N
to one-
Front of back under
one-half inch to the left of
to
L
on
hip line. 32.
Back
of front under
arm gore
half inch to the right of
G
on hip
arm gore
I
to
is
sloped from
is
line.
sloped from
(1 to
one-
Front of front under
one-half inch to the left of I on
hip line. 33.
Back
of the front
inch to the right of
H
is
on hip
sloped from II one and one fourth line.
2G
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
PRINCESS OR POLONAISE. COPYRIGHTED.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
27
Princess or Polonaise. Proceed as
Draw
22.
Basque No.
in
a
line
1, until
you get
to
Rule 22.
in each center of space for darts, after
taking out one-fourth of each dart from the outside of darts, and draw front dart according to measure, and back dart onequarter inch higher, and slanting back one-fourth inch, then
curve for darts by placing the small end of long curvature on the end of each line and curve to waist line.
Curve the back of neck from end of
23.
line 9
to one-half
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front
neck
to half of
neck measure and make a
(dot.)
of waist from this dot one-half inch above line 2,
Curve front
make rounding
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch,
and out
to line 7 at
bottom of paper.
Then measure
24.
curved
line
the side
body and back, and from front and measure
to dart, omitting the space of darts,
the space between darts, and then from back dart to half the
make
Take half the space from dot just made and back dart and make dot H, and draw line 12 from H up to the arm eye for back of front, slanting a little to the right. Then take the space of the darts you have taken out and put to the right of II on waist line, and make dot I, and put the same space to the right of half the waist measure dot, and make dot G, and draw line 13 from G to E for back draw line 14 from I up to end of line 12 in of under arm gore arm eye for front of under arm gore. waist measure and
a dot.
;
P. S. 5,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
If half the waist
measure comes
proceed the same as in Basque No.
of drawing
the
2,
to the right of line
with the exception
center and outside lines of darts together at
bottom of paper. 25.
Extend
lines
4
and
7
to
the
bottom of paper and
center lines of darts, slanting back one-half inch, also outside lines
paper.
of darts, letting
them touch center
lines at
bottom of
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
28
Measure
26.
for hip line on lines 7
height of hip and draw line 15 for hip
and
H
on hip
;
from
line
A
from
line 1
Mark
exactly below letters on waist
line,
Draw back
27.
and 4 line.
C,
the
D, G, I
line.
to one-half inch
to the left of
end of line 4 at bottom of paper with rule.
Draw
28.
paper with 29. right 30.
31.
Front of side body
D
on hip
Back
the right of 32.
G
is
sloped from
to
bottom of
sloped from
is
D
C one
inch to the
one inch to the
line.
of under
on hip
arm gore
left
of I on hip
Back of the
is
sloped from
G
one inch to
line.
Front of under arm gore
an inch to the 33.
down
straight
rule.
Back of the side body of C on hip line.
left of
B
inside of back from
front
is
is
sloped from I three-fourths
line.
sloped from
H
one and one-fourth
inch to the right of II on hip line. 34.
on hip
If too large or too small after measuring all the places line,
add on or take
oil'
to suit the hip
measure.
30
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
31
Rules for Drafting Sleeve No. Line
1.
1
the diameter of
is
arm eye and
1.
inside to wrist
measure added, dot on this line where the diameter begins and
make dot A, take half the space between dot A and end of line 1 and make a dot, one-fourth inch to the left of this dot make dot B, to the left of dot A make dot C inside to bend measure. Line 2
is
two-thirds the
3.
Line 3
is
the same length as line
4.
Draw
5.
On
lines 4, 5
line
inch
one-half
5,
On
6.
dot
F
A
D
from
a line
line 1 at
and C
D
from
F and E
to
G
to
bottom of sleeve make dot
II,
D
E.
one and one-half inches
6,
to line 3.
A, make dot
dot
make dot
from
make
dot C,
F make
three-fourths of an inch from dot
;
draw
line
1.
and 6 from dots B,
three-fourths of an inch from
to
arm eye measure.
2.
dot
G
;
and
and one inch above and draw line from F ;
H.
Draw
7.
down
line
7
three-fourths the
from end of line 1
end of
7
line
make
and three inches
;
measure straight
wrist
to the
left
a dot and draw line 8 from dot
H
of the to dot
just made. 8.
On
from dot
line 8
H
;
make
dot
K,
two inches inside of
mark
one-fourth the wrist measure, 9.
Dot L
is
one inch above
a line straight to line 4 and
the space between lines 1
On
R
from G.
make
dot
I,
and from
I,
J.
line 3
on
From L draw Dot N is one-half draw line from N
line 2.
make dot M.
and 3 on
line 6, inside of F,
upper sleeve
Mark
II
line 2
;
and make dot 0.
to line 4
10.
three-fourths the wrist measure
for
is
three inches
mark
elbow so that the
for the
wider than
upper sleeve from F, and
the
Q
for
under
sleeve.
under sleeve
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
32
Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot for elbow, letting tape pass line 6, between Q and R make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes to then draw line 9 from F through dot just made to line 3, and mark Q and 11 on this line. 11.
N
and measure ;
;
Draw
12.
and from
R
to
a line from
M
K, and from
to
Q
R
and from
to J,
to
and from
G
Q
last
made,
to I.
Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve inside of upper sleeve from D to F and F to II, and curve inside of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. In 13.
D
curving the top of upper sleeve begin at quarter inch below dot
dot
M
N
to line 2,
and
and curve
to one-half inch
to
one-
below
on line 4, and measure for upper, middle and lower arms
and curve outside of sleeve according P. S.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The
back shoulder
front
to
seam of the sleeve
line crosses line 6
the width of side body
;
on line
measure. is
sewed
2, the
in
where the
back seam half
always make the sleeve from one
one and one-half inches larger than the arm eye.
SKIRT DRAFT. COPYRIGHTED.
to
34
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
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EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
35
Rules for Drafting Sleeve No. 2. Line
1.
1
this
and make dot B, take half
and make a
line 1
make
arm eye and inside to wrist where the diameter begins the space between dot B and end of
the diameter of
is
measure added, dot on
line
dot, one-fourth
inch
to the right of this dot
B make
dot A, to the left of dot
dot
C
bend
inside to
measure. 2.
Line 2
is
two-thirds the arm-eye measure.
3.
Line 3
is
the
4.
Draw
5.
On
7
same length
lines 4, 5
as line
1.
and G from dots A,
B
line 5, one-half inch
D
fourths of an inch from
On
line
dot
F
6.
make
and draw a line
F
three-fourth
D
from
to
F and E
3.
three-
;
G
to
from dot
inches
bottom of sleeve make dot H,
at
1
;
D
line
E.
three-fourths of an inch from dot
line
to
from dot B, make dot
make dot
one and
6,
and C
F make
C.
G
dot
;
and one inch above
;
and draw
line
from
H.
to
Draw
7.
line
three-fourths
7
dowai from end of line
end of
line 7
make
1
;
the
wrist
measure
and three inches to the
draw
a dot and
line
8 from dot
straight
left
of the
H
to dot
just made.
On
8.
from dot
8
line
II
make
dot K, three-fourths the wrist measure
Dot L
9.
is
From L draw
N
is
N
10.
to line
On
upper sleeve
R
for
make dot
and from
I,
one and one-half inches above line 3 on line
2.
mark
4 and
L
to
I,
J.
a line straight to line 4 and
one- third the space from
from
H
two inches inside of
;
one-fourth the wrist measure,
end of
make dot M.
line 1
and draw
line
make dot 0.
6, inside of F, mark for the elbow so that the two inches wider than the under sleeve. Mark
line is
Dot
upper sleeve from F, and
Q
for
under sleeve from G.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
36
Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot N and measure for elbow, letting tape pass line 6 between Q and R make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes then draw line 9 from F, through dot just made, to line 3, to and mark Q and R on this line. 11.
;
;
12.
Draw
and from
R
to
a line from
M
K. and from
to
Q
R, and from
to J,
and
G
to
Q
last
made,
to I.
Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve inside of upper sleeve from D to F and from F to H, and curve inside In curving the of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. top of upper sleeve begin at D and curve to N and to M, and measure for upper, middle and lower arms, and curve outside of 13.
sleeve according to measure.
For Misses or Children. Proceed as in Basque No.
1, until
you get
Measure the space between
18.
lines 6
waist line, for darts, in four equal parts. darts
Rule 18.
to
and 7 on slanting
The space between
found by measuring three-eighths of an inch on each
is
side of the centre mark. 11).
Draw
centre line of dart from the centre of space the
height of dart and slant back one-fourth inch, then
use
long
curvature from the top of the line to the centre of each dart,
which
one dart.
will give the desired fullness for
2(1.
One and one-fourth inches
line
make
and
line 5,
and make dot C on waist
curvature at dot of back.
to the left of dot
dot B, then take half the
B and draw
a.
space
line.
A
between
on waist dot
A
Place large end of
curve line to dot F, for inside
Use curvature the same way from dot C, letting
touch back line at line 2 for outÂŤide of side body.
it
37
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
To
21.
find
the back line of the front and width of side
B
body, measure from dart, omitting the
A
to
width of dart, and then from back of dart,
make
to half the waist measure and
Take
22.
and make
half the space
dot H, dot
as the waist
from front curved line to
and
measure
D
is
dot on waist line.
between
and back of dart
this dot
the same distance to the right of
is
Draw
from C.
line
12 from II up
to
draw
13
eye half the space between lines 5 and 6,
arm
D
from
up
centre
line
line
to top of line 12.
Extend
23.
H
lines
and
4
7
the
to
bottom of paper and
of dart, also outside line of dart leaving one-half
inch space each side of centre line.
Measure
24.
for hip line
on
lines 7
height of hip and draw line 14 for hip 25.
Mark
26.
Draw back
end of
line
and
line
from
A
H
;
from
line
1
the
on hip
line.
to one-half inch to the left of
4 at bottom of paper with rule.
Draw
27.
D
dots B, C,
and 4 line.
inside of
back from
B
straight
down
to
bottom
of paper with rule. 28. right
Back of the side body of C on hip line. Front of side body
29. of
left
H
on hip
Back of
30.
of
D
on hip
31.
on hip
is
is
sloped from
sloped from
C one
D
inch to the
two inches
to the
line.
front
is
sloped from
H
two inches
to the right
line.
If too large or too small after measuring all the places line,
add on or take
off to suit the hip
measure.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
BLAZER COAT AND VEST. COPYRIGHTED.
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
39
Blazer Coat and Vest.
Proceed as
Basque No.
in
1,
the exception of the following changes
Draw
line
Draw
line 2
Dot [A]
is
and vest with
for Blazer coat :
one 14 inches from bottom of paper for one-half inch higher than under
one and one-half inches to the
After getting arm-eye same
left
as dress, then
belt-line.
arm measure.
of end of line 4.
make back and
front shoulder lines one-quarter inch shorter than curve coat-
arm-eye around
to
one inch below junction of lines 2 and
which makes coat-arm-eye large enough
Put one Dart Find Dot
Dot
[G-]
to go
6,
over the dress.
in vest-front.
and [H] the same as
to the left of line 7
in
Basque No.
1.
on lines 3 and 1 one-fourth the neck
measure, and draw line from one-half inch above line 3 through dots just
made down
to
bottom of paper, which makes front
of coat, and curve neck to top of this line above line 3.
Put
Three-fourth inch to the
make line
neck on
in one-half inch dart at
line 7, as
shown
in draft.
of end of line 12, in arm-eye
left
Then measure the width of the dart at waist and put the same space to the left of [H] and make a
[dot,]
a [dot.]
use small end of curvature at dot in arm-eye, to [dot]
at waist line, which
makes back of the
Then measure under arm
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
side
front of coat.
body and back, and from
front of coat to half the hip measure, then use curvature from
back of front coat on waist in draft.
line
to
bottom of paper as shown
4(1
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
DOUBLEIBREASTED COAT. Will be explained by Teacher.
<xj
PRICE, $5.00;E>
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
THE SCIENTIFIC
Lady Tailor System FOR
CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES <ff COATS.
NO
FITTING TO DO.
,&*"**£
IMPROVED AND SIMPLIFIED-
SECOND EDITION.
AS
TAUGHT BY
OPROF. LOUIS MOLPOERI> Washington,
d.'c.
HO
COPYRIGHTED.
BASQUE FOR FRENCH BIAS DART.
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
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