Firstcourseinmodsmmechanics00inst

TT? i&

First Course in

Modern Mechanical Methods

Home Sewing

Copyright 1920

The

Institute of

Modern Sewing

Tl

C

of

1

'4>

Institute of Modern Sewing, Inc.

SEWING COURSE

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2011 with funding from

The

Library of

Congress

http://www.archive.org/details/firstcourseinmodOOinst

Lesson No.

The Care

And

1

Use Of The Sewing Machine

©CI.A576327

I

)

LESSON

No.

1

THE CARE AND USE OF THE SEWING MACHINE

Oiling and Cleaning Sewing machines require If

long.

to be cleaned

and

used moderately for only a few hours

oiled daily

day,

a

if

they are used continuously

all

day

and cleaning twice a week

oiling

is

sufficient.

A

good quality of sewing machine

bearing where there

The

plate

is

treadle

of

friction, as often as

may

and dust which

the lint

removed.

The

and

pitman.

in the

The bearings should be

collect.

removed occasionally

when

oiled inside

to

the face

shuttle race requires occasional oiling, as well as the ball bearings in the

The

rufHer and the tucker also require, occasionally, a small drop

oil.

Machines benzine,

which

making sure

are

gummed from

that there

using poor

no flame

is

The machine should be run long enough

in the

away

to cut

the life of the machine,

make

run easier and

it

oil

should

room when such the

oughly cleaned and oiled with good sewing machine

it

be required.

face plate and the needle plate of the sewing machine should be

away

clean

any

is

should be used, and a small drop applied to each

oil

lighter,

gummed

oil.

and

be

oiled

with

kerosene or

volatile liquids are being used.

and then should be thor-

oil,

Attention to these details will increase also permit

it

do better sewing than

to

could otherwise accomplish.

Adjusting the Tensions All sewing machines require occasional tension

There are two tensions

fabrics.

the

:

thread as thread as

To

it

adjustment

comes from the spool

to

suit

the

The upper

upper and the lower.

— the

comes from the bobbin.

it

tighten the tension turn the adjusting

equally to both upper and lower tension. (in. i)

A

stitch

screw

The upper

to

left.

the right

—

to

This applies

tension

is

adjusted

by means of the thumb screw, the lower tension by means of small screw, which

is

turned with a screw driver.

which approixmates perfection

amount of tensions above and below.

The

various

lower tension controls the

loosen the tension turn the adjusting screw to the

Testing the Tensions

to

stitch

tension controls the

(

See

in

appearance

will

best

be

obtained by an equal

111. 8.

shuttle tension spring should occasionally be

removed from

the shuttle, and

all

the

lint

and dust or knots of thread should be removed from under this spring and then the spring properly replaced.

This applies

to

both round and long shuttle.

;

The Needle Should be

Avoid Cutting Thread

to it is

quite possible with

wrong

the

Correctly Placed in the Sewing Machine

most sewing- machines

position, so that every time the

The needle should always be and

set in

rests in the long groove, then passes

short groove until

it

reaches the point.

the thread then rests safely in the groove

wheel

to set the needle

is

with the groove

turned the thread

is

in

cut.

down

such a position that the thread passes

through the eye of the needle resting in the When the needle is thrust through the cloth

and

is

thus protected.

(See

111.

2.)

(111.

A

Thread Should Rest

needle with a dull or bent point or one which

never be used.

in

Groove

It

much cheaper

is

to

is

defective in any

way should

use the required size of needle than

is

it

A

have work spoiled.

bent or imperfect needle can injure your fabric and completely ruin the appearance of the seams, by puckering and breaking threads in your to

cloth.

\

/

/

Selecting Proper Needles

(111.

Note Eyes

Same

3)

in

Position

In buying needles, if you find it necessary to accept a substitute which perhaps was not made for your sewing machine, you should always measure the needle from the top of the shank to the eye, and that measurement should be exactly the same as your original needle. Whether the point is a trifle longer or shorter does not necessarily matter.

(See

111.

3.)

Your Machine Should Feed

A

Straight

machine should feed straight without guiding the cloth when the presser foot is placed A machine which does not do this is the center of a straight piece of material. defective in one of three ways. It either has a poor needle,

directlv in

feed or a defective presser foot.

a defective stituting a

new needle and

then have a repair

man

if this

Try sub-

does not cure the defect

attend to the presser foot or feed

immediatelv.

Proper Sized Needles and Thread

One (III.

Sewing Straight

Sewing Crooked

4)

should not expect to get good workmanship

using poor thread or a needle which thread or perhaps too small for

is

when

too large for the

it.

The thread should be selected to suit the fabric which i>

thread.

Reasonably

fine

to

be stitched, and the needle correctly selected to

thread always gives better results than thread which

For a fine material such as organdie, fine lawn, batiste and similar from 120 to 150 thread with a needle which corresponds.

is

fit

the

too coarse.

fabrics,

one should use

Regulate Your Stitch The

should then be regulated to suit the thread which

stitch

after having given

by using a long, coarse that

is

it

may

The adjustment

stitch.

woman

very easy for any

this that a stitch

The

belt

of the length of the stitch

be regulated without any

difficulty

machine

to

this

your

is

and the machine

is

such a small matter

run

will not

to

of the Belt

full

If

it

speed.

power

too loose,

is

If

it

too tight

is

wasted by

is it

causes the

run very hard.

One should if

In other words,

whatsoever.

should be neither too tight nor too loose. slip

being used.

and one should become so thoroughly accustomed

to learn,

The Adjustment having the belt

is

other conditions due consideration do not spoil your bit of workmanship

all

avoid getting the belt soaked with

oil,

as

will invariably slip

it

and cause

difficulty

done.

Every machine should be supplied with a belt as you find it necessary.

The Adjustment The presser needle

is

punch, which enables you to shorten or lengthen

belt

of the Presser Foot and the Feed

foot rests on the feed holding the cloth in position while the

doing the work.

This pressure should be

Heavy

stitched.

light

requires

fabric

or heavy, according to the

heavy pressure and

light

fabric to be

fabric

a

lighter

pressure.

For Adjusting Pressure on Presser Foot

will

chiffon,

net

or fine

silks

and other similar materials, release the

pressure by turning the adjustment screw to the

'

f

left.

Increase the pressure

or neav y materials by turning the adjustment screw to the right.

be found on top of presser bar.

(See

111.

The screw

5.)

Winding Bobbins Great care should be taken in winding bobbins to have the thread placed on the bobbin This will insure an even run of thread from the shuttle, and will prevent

smoothly and evenly.

die line of stitching the thread

lllillllllli Illlllltllllilili

(ill.

Wound

iniiiiiiiilimillni

li.iii,

61

0ptr

°

n

,

:

,i|

:;|,"i'

,,

,j]f

l

(in.7)

A

Bobbin Improperly

Wound

You must

,

comes

..

.

T If the points

from having

a wavering appearance

which

will occur if

off the shuttle in jerks. ..

,

.

,

.

.

..

.

t mentioned herein are given careful attention and, you learn ,

.

and master them thoroughly it will then be very easy indeed to use the Attachments on the machine.

A machine which stitches straight with its own presser foot will make perfectly even tucks, will stitch the hem a short distance from the edge, will curn un der the binding evenly, and stitch it evenly, and will do edge-stitching and all other line operatintis with the greatesl possible ease.

A machine which does not stitch straight with its own presser foot will under no circumstances do satisfactory work with the Attachments, nor will iit be possible even with the most careful guiding to stitch a straight seam.

•,

,

-,

,

•

learn to properly thread the

,

,,

r

i

•

,

•

,1

machine and shuttle from your instruction book.

Before beginning to sew a long seam be sure the bobbin contains enough thread to complete the seam.

All adjustments may be made without removing the Attachment in use from the machine.

Always

raise the needle bar to

machine.

its

highest point before fastening any Attachment to the

—

—

— Projects for Lesson No.

(a) Tighten

your upper tension by turning your adjusting screw to the right and loosen

your lower tension by turning the adjusting screw appear

1

in

Your

the shuttle to the left.

stitch will

like this

8)

(III.

(Make Sample

(b)

of a Perfect

Tension)

Loosen your upper tension by turning the adjusting screw

to the left.

Your

stitch wil

then appear like this

(III. 9)

(Make Sample

(c)

of a Loose

Adjust your machine for a perfect

Use

alike as possible.

same number

the

stitch

Upper Tension)

by having upper and lower tensions as nearly

Your

of thread on top as in the shuttle.

correctly ad-

justed tension should have this appearance

(111.10)

(Make Sample

(d)

You must spend

at least

of a

Loose Tower Tension)

one hour of practice with your tensions.

perfectly for heavy cotton material, thin organdie or lawn and

silk.

Make

Adjust your tension a small

sample about

six inches in length of perfect stitching on each of these materials.

and

(e)

Take out your needle and

reset

test

your

works properly.

(f)

Adjust the pressure on your presser bar for thin material and for heavy material.

you have had the pressure silk

stitch to see that

difficulty

was

it

with the print

loo heavy.

Make

it

at least 12

times and each time thread up your machine

of the feed showing on

a small

line silk or chiffon,

(g)

above work are

This project

is

to be

Remove

to be sent direct to the Institute.

worked

out in the presence of your instructor:

belt.

Shorten stitch

to limit.

Loosen both tensions.

Release pressure on presser fool.

Remove

needle.

Put machine

in

order and adjust for making perfect

(All samples of

is

If

because

sample of stitching on heavy material and on thin

or georgette.

All samples of

it

work

to be sent to the Institute.)

stitch.

Lesson No. 2

The Cutting Gauge

And Binder

)

LESSON

No.

2

THE CUTTING GAUGE AND BINDER The Cutting Gauge and

For^Tndfng For Cording or Piping

(in. 11

The Bias Cutting Gauge

/

/

Have you ever noticed this little Attachment, is made to fit on the point of your scissors and

^-^ch

j

Gauge

is

A'

/

/

iss •z /

•

A'

/

?* f

'

/

ii?3

V

/ / /

if

/

/

'

'

M?

4

/

/

f or

(111.

IS)

Fold the Cloth as Indicated by the Dotted Lines

it

Material that

curved

now be most interested wonder why you did not discover you

will

shown by

Your

111.

shown

in

111.

If

Attach the bias gauge to the

to the letter B.

gauge and cut your bands

14.

bias strips to use with the Binder

the correct width it

you

the Binder

Tnsert your material in the

13.

Material with no starch should measure

adjust

If

in learning to

around corners.

Adjust the blue spring on the Cutting Gauge as

This Cutting °

not cut on the true bias will not successfully bind

is

lines or

To Cut Binding For Use With point of the scissors as

cutting o bias bands?

included in your set of Attachments.

If,

/

y*

it

usec i

s

it sooner. and you will by any chance, you do not find the Cutting Gauge in your box, your instructor will supply you with one.

The Cutting Gauge will measure and cut your bias bands for The following directions will enable you to use with the Binder. easily make up a supply of these bands to be kept in your sewing machine drawer or sewing basket, ready to bind seams, arms'-eyes, and to help in many other ways with your sewing.

Purchase one yard of thin lawn and fold it as shown by the chart.

It is very necessary to cut your material on a true bias.

use

/ /

/

Value

which

have overlooked N«l

Its

is

}{|

must measure from

",-<

to

Jjj

of an inch in width.

of an inch, while starchy material should measure ~s.

not obtained by adjusting the blue spring on your gauge to the letter "B,"

a trifle wider or narrower, as the case

determine the proper width.

may

be.

A

trial

with

the

Binder

will

quickly

To The seams on your

Join

Your Bias Bands

bias strips should be

they will run properly through the Binder.

Lay

the two diagonal ends together as

shown

when the strips are lapped back shown in 111. 15.

be seen that strips as

made as close to the edge as The edges can lie trimmed after

(111.

The Wrong

in

16 and stitch

111.

is

a seam.

in

the edges will be exactly even.

15)

Way

The Right

How

to

Use

to Join

instructor will assist

Cut the binding until the binding

to a point

you with

with the scissors.

comes through the

scroll

binding through the scroll with the

through the

scroll

this part of

your

is

made.

will then

not join your

10)

Strip-s

It

Substitute the Binder for the presser foot, following the directions given

Your

It

Do

(111.

Way

The Binder and

book.

safe in order that

the stitching

in

your instruction

lesson.

Insert the point in the scroll of the Binder

and under the

foot.

It

may

be necessary to draw the

stiletto or the point of the scissors.

As

the binding passes

both edges are turned in neatly.

Binders are of two types: those which are adjustable for the distance of stitching from the edge,

and those which are

not.

The

stitching should always be close to the edge, in order to have

the proper appearance.

The Adjustable

However,

Binder, at

Work

you do not have the adjustable type of Binder the working principle is the same. tell you which type you have with your Attachments.

After you have inserted the binding in the Binder Attachment lower the presser bar and

Your

if

instructor will

proceed to sew. folds together.

the illustration. stitching.

You

will find that the

The edge

to be

All seams to be

Attachment folds the

bound should be held

bound should be

in

stitched

cloth as the

the scroll of the

machine

stitches the

Binder as shown

and then trimmed close

to the

row

in

of

Using No. 6 Folded Tape With the Binder Tape which may be purchased ready folded can be used with the Binder. This tape must be number 6 will be the proper width in all stan-

one-half inch in width and you will find that the

dard makes.

The 111.

18.

tape

inserted in the outside slot of the Binder as

is

In this

same manner ribbon or braid may be used.

shown

It

in

must be

one-half inch in width.

Note.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;We

tape ready cut (111.

Ir.sertirg the the

IS)

Folded Tape Binder

in

time.

Your

thirty cents.

would advise for use

instructor

that

you purchase a

with this lesson. will

supply you

It

will

with a

roll of

unfolded

save you

24-yard

much

roll

for

Projects for Lesson No. 2 (A) Binding of Proper Width Cut a

lawn on the true

strip of

bias,

Use With Binder

to

for use with the Binder.

(

See

111.

%

20 inches long and

three separate pieces and stitch together with the machine.

i*icJh

wide.

The seams

Cut

this strip into

are to be trimmed ready

16.)

(B) Your

A

Bound Seam

teacher will demonstrate and assist you with

each operation for thi: lesson.

This oughly.

is

the

Sew up

first

samjJe to be made

;

master thor-

a straight or bias seam with the presser

J and trim off the edge about /& stitching.

Adjust the Binder to stitch

foot

inch as

from

close

to

the the

edge of the binding as possible, with the particular kind of material you are using. the scroll

and bind.

Insert the edge of the

The

finished sample should

seam

about six inches in length.

(111.

19)

Sample Mafic of Lawn or Muslin

(C)

An

Outside Curve

The adjustment feature of the Binder will require practice for this operation.

beginner

in

Care must be taken by the

adjusting this Attachment for a curve, as a

wider adjustment

is

necessary than for a straight seam

order to keep the stitching directly on the edge.

in

The

all times must be held well in the and if the curve is sharp it may be stop the machine and raise the presser bar in

edge of the cloth

at

scroll of the Binder,

necessary to

order to turn the cloth properly.

used

in

making such

The

outside curve

is

articles as aprons, scallops, collars,

children's clothes, etc.

(111.

Sample Made of Lawn

or India

in

measure

20)

Linen

(D)

An

Inside

Curve

The

material

a straight line 1

f

the cloth

is

is

held as nearly as possible in

when binding

a curve of this kind.

liable to stretch,

it

is

well to

add a

row of stitching close to the edge before binding.

The

outside

and

which you meet

inside

in

curves

are

conditions

your dressmaking and the time

spent in practicing these two operations will well

worth while.

binding the neck

(111.

Sample Made

Lawn

of

This illustration shows

an

open seam of

The

with

both

fitted

and the surplus material

edges

bound.

(rimmed from the seam, leaving one inch or side.

seam pressed and to l

bias,

it

is

Each edge

is

then bound and the

very sleazy

sometimes necessary to

stitch close

If the material

the edge before binding.

rue

when using

This

is

especially

rattine or voile.

Serge dress seams are often finished

manner.

less

is

flat.

used

An Open Bound Seam

heavy material

on each

is

21)

garment

first

inside curve

or India Linen

(E)

is

The

and armholes of garments.

in this

HMMOMB (111.

82)

Sample Made of Heavy Linen or Broadcloth

lie

in

(F)

A

Bound

Placket

This finish etc.,

where

a

practical for children's drawers, sleeves,

is

wide overlap

is

held as nearly as possible in a straight to

sew

plait

in

The seam

not desired. line,

taking care not

too deeply at the point, as this might cause a

or fold to

form.

On

children's drawers

objectionable, however, to bind in the fold, as

safe seam. scallops, in

this

and

This same condition it

lesson,

present time.

may

as

it

it

is

not

insures a

met with in binding row of scallops they are very much in vogue at the

would be well

is

to include a

Black or white folded tape of taffeta

be purchased in any department store.

cellent

is

This

is

silk

ex-

for finishing the bottoms of scalloped dresses or

underskirts.

Your sample, however, may be made

of any

material bound with white lawn.

(111.

28)

Sample Made of Lawn or India Linen

(G) Bound Buttonholes These Buttonholes are Easy to Make and Wear Well They are

practical for children's waists

back of princess tailored finish

is

slips,

and drawers, the back of dresses, pinafores, the shirtwaists, and for any garments where a

for the front of tailored

desirable.

(111.

Directions for

Do

work out

24)

Making

sit down at the machine and make some of the buttonholes in order to appreciate how easy it is.

The binding to be used with the Binder should be cut ~s of an inch wide. For ordinary binding as for seams, trimming, etc., the binding should be cut on the true bias.

Binding for making buttonholes should be cut on the crosswise of the material so that it will not stretch when

not try to

laundered.

these directions by "mental arithmetic," but

)

A

shows the

strip of cloth 2 inches wide.

E shows

with crosswise-cut binding: the pencil marks are

C shows

into sections. will

form buttonholes.

1

the sections stitched together

D

is

C

the

same

strip

with both edges bound

inch apart, showing just in

how

to cut the strip

such a manner that the edges

first

bound

with both edges bound, completing the buttonholes.

(A) as wide as you want the distance between the buttonholes. two inches apart, take a strip of material two inches wide and The marks show this strip divided into sections. Each section is one-half bind it as shown in B. If your button is one-half inch across add one-half inch, thus cutting inch wider than the button.

If the button is three-quarters of an inch in diameter, add your strip into pieces 1 inch wide. one-half inch and cut strip into sections one and one-quarter inches wide.

After your strip is cut into sections sew the nieces together as shown in C, using the presser Bind the edges with binding as shown in D. This makes a finished strip of buttonfoot. holes which are strong and practical for children's clothes.

Always

cut the first strip

Jf the buttonholes are to be

(

E shows the same idea worked out with finer materials Foot Hemmer instead of the Binder is used to finish the

;

the

first strip in

order to get an effect dainty enough to use with

dimity, batiste, etc.

E

shows the edges sewn to another piece of cloth, which in the case of practical sewing would be the garment.

This is done when they are in the stage as shown in C, binding the edge of the garment in with the row of buttonalso

holes, then stitching the other edge of the binding flat

on the

garment, using the presser foot.

(111. 25.)

Bound Buttonholes (sample made of heavy muslin)

(H) Button Loops To make and

button loops, attach the Binder to the machine

through a strip of binding about one-half yard This gives you a quarter-inch fold of bias cloth with

stitch

long.

For each loop cut

the edges turned in and stitched securely.

a strip sufficiently long to

Fold the loop

by hand.

shown

in

slip

to a point as

over the button

shown

Insert the ends in the 111.

in

111.

when

8 and sew

hem and

finished. in

shape

stitch in place as

27.

(III. 211)

The Button Loops

)

Practical

Uses of Binder

Binding dress seams.

Binding around armholes.

Binding seams, armholes and necks of corset covers and princess

slips.

Binding the neck and sleeves of kimona night gowns.

Binding edges of kitchen aprons, fancy aprons and caps.

Using

binding on shirtwaist cuffs.

fine

In this

way

it

is

also

trimming.

USÂŁ d as

Binding loops for buttons.

Bound buttonholes.

271

(111.

Forming

the Loops

(I)

This braid comes This year

cotton.

Many

suits.

times

Binding With Military Braid

in a variety of

widths and colors, also in

it

is

quite the proper finish

it

is

applied

flat

silk

or

for skirts, dresses and

as a trimming, but

more often

it

is

used to bind the edge.

The inserting

braid one-half inch it

in

The next sample

This braid to a

width

may

be used with the Binder by

is

Purchase

a

yard of

this

Braid a straight edge of a piece of serge or broad-

braid for practice. cloth.

in

the outside slot of the scroll.

will be a

so loosely

curve as shown

woven and

in the illustration.

so pliable that

it

will adjust itself

curve perfectly.

This braid

is

also very desirable for the

either scalloped or plain.

(

bottom of dresses that are

(111.88)

Sample Made of Woolen

See illustration below.

Material

.111.

20)

Sample Made of Any Woolen Material

(J)

sew

Scallops

Bound With

Silk Military Braid

In

binding the scallops care must be taken at the point to fold the cloth

in

enough of the goods

to insure a safe seam.

in a straight line

and

(K) Straight

Silk

Seam

With Binder

Binding, Used

Straight silk seam binding which

any notion counter on

cially

silk

a roll in either black or white

bias messaline

The

bound with white

and bind a piece of shows a piece of

silk tape.

not try to bind a sharp curve with this straight tape,

may

be perfectly done.

30)

Samples Made of Messaline and Net

LIST OF BINDINGS ys inch lawn cut at 1

2

home

inch or No. 6 folded tape

yi inch military braid }4 inch bias silk binding.

Do

not try to assist the feed by pulling or pushing the work.

assistance

if

your machine

is

properly adjusted.

(All samples of

at

illustration

but a straight edge or slight curve

(111.

be purchased

inch width must be used with the Binder.

soft silk or crepe-de-chine.

Do

may

popular finish for seams, espe-

or heavy woolen dresses.

The one-halt Purchase

a very

is

work

to be sent to the Institute.)

The feed requires no

Lesson No.

Making

A

Kitchen Apron

3

And Night Gown

LESSON

No. 3

MAKING A KITCHEN APRON AND NIGHT GOWN The Kitchen Apron The apron here shown This

percale.

a very practical pattern, as the flare sides

is

cover one well when busy If

you desire

in the

kitchen or about the house.

to use a plain color of contrasting material

may purchase

for the binding you

instructed in Lesson No.

This apron

is

it

and cut

you prefer

If

2.

may purchase

pink or blue, you instructor.

requires one yard of yard wide

bias strips as

to use plain white,

a roll of 24 yards

very attractive

from your

made

if

of

un-

bleached muslin and trimmed with plaid binding. better to

It is

you find for

you

Print

is

If

it

to

buy a good quality of percale; however,

convenient to substitute print,

is

will be necessary

purchase two yards, as the sides must be pieced.

only 24 inches in width, while percale

you are using

seam, as

it

is

36 inches.

print, tear off the selvage

The

seam, using the Binder. finish a

it

if

and bind the

selvage should never be used to

will allow the material to

pucker when

it

laundered.

(111.31)

To Cut

the

Apron

Fold a yard of material on the length-wise fold and place your pattern as a pattern.

apron

may

shown

in

111.

32.

Your

instructor will furnish

This amount of material does not allow for be fastened with a button and buttonhole.

you desire the

ties

you with

ties

and the

However,

if

purchase y& yard more of material.

(111.

The Pattern on

the Material

32)

To Trim

Apron

the

The second row

Bind the outside edge of the apron, using the Binder. in the illustration is called

a French fold and

beneath the Attachment and the binding

is

applied with the Binder.

in the scroll in the

usual manner.

(111.

of trimming as

shown

The apron

placed

(See

111.

is

33.)

33)

The Binder Making French Folds

A

little

practice will enable

pocket as shown in

111.

31

you

to

and attach

make

attractive

trimmings

in

this

manner.

Bind the

to the apron.

To Shape

Band

the

Fold your band on the center fold and crease length-wise give you the exact center line.

Open and

Stitch as indicated by the dotted lines material.

(111.

Shaping the

Band

34)

You

Always machine.

You

and one which

will find that will

fit

to

shown in 111. 34. and trim away the surplus fold as

you now have a band nicely shaped

well.

should complete your apron in one hour.

raise the needle to the highest point before fastening

any Attachment to the

Making a Kimona Night Gown The kimona

which

(he ease with of

night

gown

very popular for

is

The

can be made.

it

its

simplicity

and

attractiveness and beauty

underwear depends upon the fineness of material and the careful-

ness of the work, rather than the over-use of laces and embroidery.

The

night

gown may

be

made

of long cloth, nainsook, batiste or

cotton crepe.

Later we will teach you how to for

make

lace

trimmings and tucks

more elaborate underwear.

This same simple pattern

gown.

The

sleeves

with tucks and lace.

may

may

be used for the most elaborate

be omitted, the bottom

The neck may be

may

cut square or

V

be trimmed shaped.

(111.33)

How Measure from will also

need

2V2

Cut Your Night

the shoulder to the ankle,

You must purchase

for the hem.

to

Gown

and allow two inches

You

material twice this length.

yards of lace edging.

Follow the chart here given and with the assistance of your you will be able to cut this garment without a pattern.

Cut the sleeves amply full, as a tight gown is most uncomfortable and it wears out sooner because of strained seams. If your material instructor

is

not 40 inches in width, Slip the

gown over

out enough. fine

it

will be

necessary to add side pieces.

the head to

make

sure the neck

is

trimmed

Bind the edge of the sleeves and around the neck with

lawn binding.

may

If

you are making a gown of

fine batiste, strips

If, however, you making your garment of heavier material we would advise you not to use it for bindings, as it would lie too clumsy and heavy.

of this material

be used in place of the lawn.

are

Start the binding for the neck at the center back and trim the

binding close at the starting point in order that you this point

finish

when

finishing.

Turn under

may

bind over

the ends of binding

and

by overhanding.

Cutting the

Gown (111.

The

You

are

lace

edge

now ready

is

to be applied to the

to stitch

neck and sleeves

up your long seams.

later.

36)

Up

Stitching

Gown

the Night

Join the under-arm seams, placing the pins in the garment inches apart and $4 of an

presser foot to

and

eliminate

will

stitching

Use

work

mcn from

freely without

basting

a

operation.

in contact (

l />

This will allow your

the edge.

coming

\

Note

Til.

with the pins

37 showing

and trimming.) which

a short stitch

To Make

you to trim seam pulling out.

will enable

stitching without clanger of the

the French

After trimming the seam

narrow as

and sew

this

and

possible,

is

Seam

turn to the

Pin up to hold this seam as

crease on the seam. first stitching,

close,

second seam

close to the

wrong you did

side

and

for your

in position, stitching

it

as

keep the raw edges safely within

still

the seam.

This seam should never show unravelled edges on the right

(111.

should

the Night

Gown

the bottom of the

gown

evenly, turn

a two-inch hem, pinning

it

in

]/\

inch and crease.

position.

Press carefully and stitch close to the edge.

hem

be wide and clumsy.

it

37)

Hemming Trim Turn up

side, neither

When

(See

111.

sewing

38.)

[

j

in the

take fullness out by fine gathers or tiny plaits after edge

is (111.

turned.

A in

3S)

2-inch strip of cardboard used as a measure will assist you

making

You stitching

the

are it

hem accurate. now ready to apply

the lace by

drawing the thread it by hand.

slightly full it and then French knots may be added the appearance of the finished gown. to

to the edge of the binding or over-handing

in the center of the binding.

This adds very

much

to

To Make French Knots French knots which are used in embroidery are made as illus111. 39.

After bringing the thread up through the material, take an ordinary back stitch.

Wind the thread or silk twice around trated in

draw it through, holding the coils down with the left Then insert the needle over the edge of the coils in the same hole, thus making the knot secure. Do not cut the thread on the needle,

thumb.

the underside, but pass on to the next knot.

(111.

Making French Knots

39)

Lesson No. 4

The Tucker- -Collar Patterns- -Making And Cuff Set

A

Collar

LESSON

No. 4

THE TUCKERâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAKING A COLLAR AND CUFF SET The Tucker and How to Use It Substitute the

may

Tucker for the presser

In order to do this with the greatest ease

foot.

be necessary for you to consult your direction book.

will save

The

you much time and trouble, fold of the first tuck

made by

quent folds are

if

you refer

to

it

Always have

this

book handy, as

it it

freely.

must be made by hand and creased

its

All subse-

entire length.

the Tucker.

The Tucker

in

Operation

After creasing the first fold insert the cloth in the Tucker from the left, between the smoother and the blade, with the cloth to be tucked uppermost, as shown in the photograph lower the presser bar and proceed to sew, keeping the crease against the guide. When the tuck Proceed in like manner for the next is finished, flatten it so that it lies in the proper direction. ;

tuck, creasing

the

hook

does

it

it

along the line

made by

just in front of the marker.

unaided.

When making

the marker, and catching the edge of the

It is

the last tuck,

the needle clamp, in order that no

first

tuck under

unnecessary then to guide the cloth, as the Tucker

throw the operating lever back out of the way of

mark may be made where a mark

is

not desired.

Table for Setting the Tucker

Set

For

Set

Tuck

Guide

Marker

so Pointer

at

points at

jV mcn

1/

tucks with y% -inch space J^-inch tucks with no space .

y& -inch tucks with ^5 -inch space

^8-inch tucks with J4~inch space T ,

4-inch tucks with no space

.

1

1

v/2

1

2

2

2

)4-inch tucks with J^-inch space

2

3

J4-inch tucks with JA-'mch space

2

4

4

4

4

6

6

6

^2 -inch tucks with J/2-inch tucks

no space

.

with ^4-inch space

24-inch tucks with no space

.

Study your Sewing Machine Instruc tion Bo ok n If

1

1

you observe you

will find that

underwear, children's clothes, require tucking of

some

sort.

etc.

tucking

is

c onnection with this lesson

the most popular trimming for

In fact, scarcely a

dainty garment

is

made

all

thin dresses,

that

does not

At It

the present time tucking

it

is

understand

to

But tucking must be exact. not attract. part of the

French underwear

fine

as well as the plainer models.

woman knows how

this feature of sewing.

must be well made. It must be evenly stitched and the spacing cheap ready-made garment trimmed with tucks. It does long and the thread is coarse.

This brings us to the vital how to make beautiful tucks, tucks which are a real trimming.

to be beautiful

How often you see a Why The stitches are ?

Tucker lesson

Before attempting cloth.

used on

not necessary to dwell long on the importance of tucking, as every

is

essential

is

Spend a

little

to

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

make

tucks for a dress or apron, try out your Tucker with a square of

time practicing, making various kinds of tucks with different spaces be-

tween them, until you know how to adjust the Tucker exactly as you want it. Use fine thread, from 100 to 150, with a needle to match. Have your tensions adjusted to give a perfect stitch.

Always be sure to fasten the adjusting screw firmly so that the Tucker guides will not shift.

How

Do

to

Cross-Tucking

First tuck the cloth lengthwise, then tuck crosswise across the tucks.

tremely ornamental and across the

first

tucks,

may

be made in

which gives a

many

Cross-tucking

For example, you can from plain cross-tucking.

different ways.

totally different effect

(111.

Some Combinations

of

Tucks with

a Variety of Spacings

41)

is

ex-

tuck, bias

Projects for Lesson No. 4

Samples to be Six Inches

(A) Wide Tucks

Length

(B) Tucked Net

(111. 42) Set at Five and One-half and Lawn.

Sample made of Fine

(111.

The Tucker Six.

in

43)

Sample Made of Net

(D) Bias Tucking

(C) Cross Tucking

(111.

44)

Sample Made of Fine Lawn till.

Sample Made of Fine Lawn

I.".)

(E)

A

Flat collar

edge of the collar

Collar Patterns

may be made by cutting a may be round instead of

certain dress lay the center back

shown

pattern as

square

if

desired.

in

the illustration.

If

you wish

to

fit

The

outside

a collar to a

seam on a piece of paper and trim the shape of the neck.

Cut

shape as desired.

SLIGHT ROLL AT BACK

FLAT COLLAR

SHOULDER SEAM

SHOULDER SEAM.

ROLL COLLAR

Take a dart chart.

SHOULDER. SEAM.

COLLAR A8CO SLIGHT ROLLCOLLAR ABC*D MORE I20LLING.

By

following lines here

be able to cut

roll collars.

shown you

will

at center

This will slightly

Neck

roll

as

your

shown

collar.

in

(F)

A

Dainty Collar and Cuff Set

Xow

that

you have practiced with your Tucker and

have made your samples of various

size tucks

we

are

going to ask you to make a 24-inch square of crossThis tucking

tucking.

A Do

very fine stitch

is

is

to be

made on

fine organdie.

be used and a perfect tension.

to

not forget, too. that you are to use a fine needle to

correspond with the thread and material you are using.

Set your Tucker for a pin tuck and your space at V/z.

You may

use the pattern which your instructor will

furnish you or you

may

have a dress which you would have a style collar in view that After your tucking cuff set cut out lace edge.

edging. the edge

(in. 46)

properly.

Stitch the lace in position with the

You may

a second stitching.

safe

if

trimmed

overcast this

you

it

is

to be

like to freshen

will look well

finished

up and you

on the dress.

and your

trimmed with

collar

a narrow, fine

l set illustrated will recpiire Z />

select

your

own

pattern,

and

yards of

measure around

and allow sufficient lace for turning the corners machine and then turn back the material and make raw edge if you desire, but we feel sure it is quite

close.

Bind around the neck and the edge of the Figure the cost of saving worth while

A

If

The

is

Maybe you

draft your own.

cuffs with fine lawn, using the Binder.

this collar set

and compare

(AH samples

work should be

it

with the price of ready-mades.

?

of

sent to the Institute.)

Suggestion for Applying Cross-Tucking to an Undergarment

Isn't this

Lesson No. 5

The Edge- Stitcher

LESSON

No. 5

THE EDGE-STITCHER The Edge-Stitcher makes It makes it possible

valuable. the

most perfect

stitching.

A

the sewing

machine

crooked

line

of

actually spoil the appearance of a finished garment.

Stitcher

is

more

itself

for the unskilled operator to do stitching If the

will

Edge-

not with your machine your sewing instructor will be

glad to supply you with one.

Directions for Using the Edge-Stitcher

The Edge-Stitching Attachment is fastened to the machine in the same manner as the presser foot.

The different slots which are numbered from one to five in the illustration serve as guides for sewing together laces, insertions, sewing in position

(in 4i>

folded or

etc.,

hemmed

edges, bias fold materials, piping, etc.

The Edge-Stitcher is adjustable for by means of the lug A at the side of

the stitching in relation to the edge of the garment, lace, the Attachment.

(111.

How To

adjust,

move

desired adjustment that the

is

lug

A

(see

obtained.

Attachment be adjusted

111.

to

4S1

Adjust the Edge-Stitcher

left of the Attachment to the right or left until the sewing two pieces of lace together it is very necessary stitch exactly on the edge so that the edges will not fold over

47) at the

When to

when laundered.

Always use

a line needle

and thread when sewing

laces together, as this greatly

improves the

appearance of the finished work.

The edges of lace or soft material should be held slightly overlapped when operating the Edge-Stitcher to prevent the material from feeding away. When the Attachment is properly adjusted the most inexperienced operator can sew yards of lace or other material together with no

difficulty.

A

Made With

Variety of Trimmings

the Edge-Stitcher

— Rows

of insertion

sewn together.

and 4 are used for

this class of

work.

Fig.

1

Fig. 2

Nos.

1

—Rows of

is

No.

and embroidery sewn together. Slots

—Tucking

placed in slot

slot

1

also used for this class of work.

and 4 are

Fig. 3

lace

Slots Nos.

and insertion sewn together. The lace No. 4 and the folded edge of the material in

1.

The ribbon

-Ribbon and lace sewn together.

1 and the lace in slot No. 4.

Fig.

is

placed in slot No.

—

Fig. 5 A band of embroidery finished on the edge with narrow lace edge. The embroidery is placed in slot No. 1 and the lace in slot No. 4.

a

—Lace

6

Fig.

insertion

The

used as trimming.

lace

is

and the material in under the Attachment.

After the lace is sewn in position the material is cut from the underside, the edge turned back and a second row of stitching added as a finish. placed in slot No.

is

— Braid

7

Fig.

braid

1

inserted

sewn

in

slot

to

a

No.

1

garment for trimming. The and the garment under the

Attachment.

Fig. 8

—Bias

folds

sewn

to the

used as a finish and trimming. slot

No.

1

edge of a garment to be

The

bias fold

and the edge of the garment

garment wrong

side

up.

The

in slot

«)

inserted in 5 with the

other edge of the binding

stitched in position with the presser foot.

(ill-

is

No.

is

Fig.

9

— Folded The

for a finish.

the

hem

in slot

bias tape stitched flat at the top of a

tape

No.

is

inserted in slot Xo.

The other edge

5.

is

1

sewn

hem

and the edge of with

in position

the presser foot.

—A box

Fig. 10 3

and the

11

Fig.

— Bias

Insert the piping in slot Xo.

plait piped.

plait in slot

No.

1.

The

fold material used to cover a seam.

and the material under the Attachment. Care must be taken to keep the row of stitching as close to the seam as possible.

The free edge of the bias strip is then sewn in position with the sewing foot. folded strip

Fig. 12 finish

is

placed in slot Xo.

is

—Bias

1

fold material used to finish a curve.

practical for underclothes.

Insert the bias

This

fold in

and the garment in slot No. 5. Turn the bias back and add a second row of stitching with the presser slot

No.

strip

1

foot.

—A

French seam stitched with the Edge-Stitcher. stitched with the presser foot and the material turned on the wrong side ready for finishing it is inserted in slot Xo. 5 and adjusted for the proper distance.

Fig. 13

After the seam

is

— Bias

Fig. 14

fold material

sewn

as a stay for children's underwaists.

serted in slot No.

Fig.

1-1

—

1

To

in position.

The

be used

folded tape

is

in-

and the srarment under the Attachment.

Bias fold material used as trimming.

easy to turn corners using the Edge-Stitcher. outside curve stop the machine

To

where the corner

quite

It is

turn the is

to

be

turned and fold the proper amount of material over, then insert

it

reached.

in the It

is

Edge-Stitcher and stitch until another corner

is

not necessary to remove the material from the

Attachment to turn the inside curve. Slot No. 1 is used for the bias tape and the garment is placed in under the Attachment.

(111.

50)

We

desire

you

to practice

each operation here shown.

Projects for Lesson No. 5 Samples of Edge-Stitching Samples

Made

to be

to be six inches in length

When

sewing together two patterns of lace

always have the one with the better finished edge in the slot at the left, as this is the

show.

If the

feed of the machine

edge that is

will

sharp and

catches the lace insert a piece of paper in nnder the Attachment.

Do

not have the tension too

tightly adjusted for this

kind of work.

This sort of trimming

underwear and

is

very popular for

lingerie dresses.

(111.51)

Sample Made

of Val.

This sample together the laces.

is

Lace

made The

the

lace

is

same

as

inserted in slot

No. 4 and the folded edge of the material No.

1.

The

stitching should

sewing

come

in slot

as close to the

edge as possible when doing work of this kind so that the edge will not curl

up when laundered.

(111.

52)

Sample Made of Lawn and Val. Lace

Piping With the Edge-Stitcher

o

-.

o

I

';'

°.'

°

|°

o

o

o.

This trimming b

o

-

.... .

.

clothes

o

in slot o

o

o

slot O

-

DO

No. o and

No.

used mostly for children's

The piping

is

inserted

the finished edge to be piped in

4.

•

If a

narrower piping

is

desired the piping

inserted in slot 3 and the edge in slot

-

-

o

o

This piping

o

o

1.

is

made

the proper width to

may

be pur-

chased in the department stores.

o

....

slot

take the No. 5 folded piping that

-

o

(111.

53)

Sample Made of Percale or any Washable Material

A

Many the

times

when using

seam shows through

will spoil the

A

fine material

plainly, a

French Seam

where

crooked seam

appearance of the finished

article.

French seam may be perfectly stitched by using

the

Edge-Stitcher.

made with fitted,

the

After the

presser

foot

the surplus material

is

inserted in slot No. 5

first

stitching

is

and the garment

trimmed away and

This folded seam

the second turning made.

width.

is

o

•

o

and

is

house dresses.

is

and adjusted for the desired

The Edge-Stitcher

will

guide this seam

perfectly.

(111.

54)

Sample Made of White Lawn

(All samples of

work

to be sent to the Institute.)

Lesson No.

Making

A

Chemise

And

6

Cross- Tucked Medallions

LESSON

No.

6

MAKING A CHEMISEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; USING THE EDGE-STITCHER AND TUCKER Materials required

:

2yÂą yds. Batiste

6

"

Insertion

5

"

Edging.

This attractive combination val.

lace

assist

and

insertion.

you with the

It

cutting.

is

made

(See

111.

tucks with a space of about

Tucker

is

1

'

Always

try out

it

in

groups of

The

inches between the groups.

_>

to be set for a fine pin tuck.

trim off the edges so that

trimmed with

56.)

20 inches by 10 inches

First tuck a piece of material live

of pink batiste and

requires no pattern, as your instructor will

After your tucking

is

finished,

measures 8 x 16 inches.

your Tucker on a waste piece of material before

starting to tuck for a garment.

Cut your yoke as indicated by

111.

57.

You

are

now ready

to

sew

your laces together for the trimming.

(III.

55)

H

it

ll

1*1

|l| !

J \

1 -i

a

l|l

A rfcr

(111.

How

to

50)

(III.

Mow

Cut Your Chemise

to

57)

Cut the Yoke

Edge-Stitching the Lace and Insertion Together Attach the Edge-Stitcher to the machine and adjust

for

sewing laces together.

Sew

to-

gether your lace and insertion.

your

lace,

lieve

it

After you have adjusted your Attachment and started to join notice the small amount of time required to finish this work.

You would hardly be-

possible to do

it

in so short a

time as compared to the tedious operation of basting by hand.

You again to 1

f

are

now ready

to apply the lace to the triangular pieces

111.

the yoke

is

too large the points

may

be over-lapped a sufficient amount to

Up

Stitching

Refer

the

make

it fit

properly.

Seams

seams in your chemise following directions given in your night gown lesson. trimmed close to the stitching it is folded and inserted in your Edge-Stitcher stitching.

Follow Fig. 13, page 29, for instructions for French seaming.

Sew up

the

first

After your seam for the final

which form the yoke.

57 and you will find a sketch of the front and back of the yoke ready to be attached.

is

You

You have now had instruction in making French seams with and without the Edge-Stitcher. will find many times that it is necessary to understand both ways of making this seam and

you

will be able to

The bottom of the If

hem

of the chemise

may

be

is

more

hemmed and

with the Edge-Stitciher, following Fig.

you desire

made buttonholes six inches

choose for yourself which

to

have

this

3,

band of the

lace

and insertion

This edge

may

insertion

neck.

is

The

as

shown

is

in the illustration.

Yoke

then applied to the bottom of the yoke and to the top of

raw edge, or

this finish, as

it

it

may

and insertion

is

be left trimmed close.

insures a safe seam.

to be joined at the points of the yoke, thus

lace

your Edge-Stitcher lesson.

be finished by turning back the material and adding a second row

of stitching and then overcast the

must always be used for

3, in

;

lace,

Joining the

A

the lace and insertion stitched to the edge

page

garment an envelope chemise you may add a tab and apply handor you may leave the side seams open for a distance of

or snaps to fasten

and trim the edge with

the chemise.

practical.

to be joined

A

A

short stitch

four-inch strip of lace and

making the garment low enough

in the

with the Edge-Stitcher.

The reason your ready-mades pull out so often is because of the poor stitching. You home-made garments will wear at least twice as long as the readv-made ones.

find that

will

To Make

a

Round Medallion

(111.

Sewing Lace

to

5S)

Paper Circle

Cut a piece of paper the

Measure the width of

size of the desired

medal-

from edge of paper to find out how large the center is to be.

Cut a piece of cross-tucking large enough to form the center, allowing lion.

one-half inch to turn

lace

in.

fill. 59.)

Baste

the

cross-tucking

to

the

paper.

With

the

machine sew the outside edge of the lace to the outside edge of the paper, and the inside edge of the lace to the cross-tucking, pulling^, the thread in the lace to fit

make

it

into a perfect circle.

an.

go)

Tear away the paper, turn back the tucking, and stitch

Trim

off surplus

This

second

stronger.

A

down

edge of tucking close

row

Pull out

of first

stitching

to the stitching.

makes

the

medallion

stitching put in the edge of lace.

medallion of any shape can

lie

made

manner.

(111.

free edge of

close to the edge of the lace.

Gil

Cross-Tucked Medallions Applied to an Undergarment

in

the

same

Lesson No.

The Ruffler

7

And Shirr er

LESSON

No.

7

THE RUFFLER AND SHIRRER LESSON

-c - D

(111.

Substitute the Ruffler for the presser foot, by placing the Ruffler foot

presser bar.

The forked arm (B)

of the Ruffler should

Tighten the Attachment screw firmly by turning to see if the needle passes 1.

2.

4 and 5 show

3,

it

first

in position

on the

be set astride the needle clamp.

to the right, then turn the

through the center of the hole

how

(A)

62)

hand-wheel slowly

The

in the foot of the Ruffler.

lines

to place the different pieces of cloth in the Ruffler.

you do not have the type of Ruffler here shown these directions for attaching and adThe forked arm (B) on all Rufflers is practically the same and the adjusting

If

justing will apply.

screw

is

usually at location (C).

Study your Sewing Machine Instruction Book

To Adjust Insert the cloth

in

bar and proceed to sew. fullness

notice stitch fine

is

how

this lesson

the Ruffler between the blades, following line two.

Now

turn the adjusting screw

the fullness decreases.

You

will

Now

(C)

right:

Lower you

the presser

will

find

the

turn the screw up, or to the

left,

and

to

the

Adjust your Ruffler for an ordinary gather and lengthen the

now

and perfect as when the fullness

To

connection with

the Fullness of the Gather

increased as you turn this screw down.

on your machine.

in

note that the gathers are scant, but the plaits arc not as is

decreased with the adjusting screw.

increase the fullness turn the adjusting screw to the right.

To

decrease turn to the

left.

Gathering to Fit a Given Space Because the Ruffler can be adjusted for with the machine stitch regulator,

it

is

fullness, both with the Ruffler adjusting

amount of fullness to a given space. The amount of gathers taken up. For example

quality of material also has

the full

as a softer quality with the Ruffler set at the

same

certain

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a

The

A In-

much

to

do with

starchy piece of material will not gather as fullness.

work by loosening the upper tension until the gathers hand sewing, or by gathering a smaller piece of cloth accordingly into certain space by trail.

The loose upper tension is a very practical way to adjust for fullness. long thread must be left in taking the material from the Ruffler in order that the gathers may

slide a

screw and

impossible to have a device on the Ruffler for adjusting a

Ruffler can be adjusted for this

on the thread as

scattered as

much

in

as

The

is

necessary.

Effect of

Changing Fullness of Gather and Length of Stitch

This

is

a Full

Gather with a Short Stitch

By Lengthening

the Stitch the Gathers

Made

This

llj

is

Scant

Plaiting with a

Long

Stitch

Shortening the Stitch the Fullness -

I

i,l I

111.

08)

Making

If

your machine

vou can apply

this

is

With

Plaiting

supplied with a Five-Stitch Ruffler you will find

trimming

your garments.

to

machine ask your sewing- machine dealer for your type of machine you will be able Ruffler such as are obtained in If

the Five-Stitch Ruffler

111.

to to

If

it

for directions as to

how

this

The adjusting screw must

in

which

you cannot purchase same make many pretty trimmings with your type of If

63.

Ruffler

is

adjusted.

to refer to

The

your machine instruction book

effect of this

instead of at each stitch as in ordinary ruffling.

adjustments are made exactly as

many ways

not and you desire to have one for your

supply you with one.

you have the Five-Stitch Ruffler we ask vou

fifth stitch,

is

The

is

cloth

to is

make one

plait

every

inserted and held, and

in plain ruffling.

be turned

down

or to the right as far as

it

will

go for

plaiting.

The

Shirring Lesson

l

For shirring

in

rows or piping

a

wide

ruffle the

111.

65

Shirring Plate must be used

in

connection

with the Ruffler.

As you

note from your practice with the Ruffler the cloth to be gathered

will

between the blades.

If

you

will try to put a

is

inserted

wide piece of cloth between the blades, you

will

which your underblade is attached is in the way.

As the Shirring Plate takes the place of the underblade on the Ruffler it is necessary to remove the

find that the separator or part to

separator before using the Shirring Plate.

The separator of the Ruffler is removed either by loosening the screw on the side of the Attachment or by turning it over back as shown in the above illustration. Your instruction book must be consulted for this operation. Your instruction book will also tell you how to attach the Shirrer to the machine.

After the separator of the Ruffler is

is

removed and the Shirring Plate is attached the Ruffler You will find that you are now able to place

placed on the machine and operated as before.

a large piece of material between the blades.

To Crease the material

on the creases. will tell

in

Rows

rows the proper distance apart, then press witli a hot iron and stitch also be used to guide your rows of shirring.

Your instructor

The Quilter may

you how.

Shirr in Straight

Projects for Ruffler Lesson These samples may be made of student desires.

your

final

We

would advise

strips of least

at

muslin cut cross-wise and

hemmed

or not as the

two hours' practice with the Ruffler before

making

samples.

A The

material

Make one and one with

is

Plain Ruffle

inserted in the Ruffler following line

sewing

plain ruffle with tension set for regular

a loose

2.

upper tension, showing Ihow the gathers

can be made to slide on the thread for adjusting to

fit

certain space.

(111. 6(i>

Ruffling and

Sewing at

One

to a

Band

or

Garment

Stitching

between the blades, following line 2 and which represents the garment for the garment fol-

Insert the ruffle

the strip

lowing line

1.

You will learn from this practice that it would be very make an undergarment and sew the ruffles in position, gathering at the same time.

Ruffles may also be gathered and easy to

garment under the AttachFor this sort of trimming, however, it would be necessary to finish tilie heading of the ruffle before inserting it in the Ruffler. .Many times a stitched to a dress by placing the

ment and

picot

is

the

ruffle

between the blades.

used as a finish for both edges of the

ruffle.

This

must be made on a special hemstitching machine and the charge for this work is about ten cents a yard.

You will probably find a hemstitching shop in your town. finish

i

111.

G7)

a

Ruffling,

Sewing

to

a Facing at

The garment

It

:

I

them

placed in the Ruffler, following line

will

1,

the

3.

be necessary for you to guide these bands, keeping

well in the Attachment.

You

will not find this difficult

to do.

You

;

will readily see

what a great amount of time can be

saved through using your Ruffler for such operations as

(111.

Sewing

One Operation

following line 2 and the facing following line

ruffle

Hm

is

Garment and Adding

a Ruffle to a Garment and a Facing at One Stitching

this.

68)

Sewing

Piping a Ruffle If the ruffle

inches

it

will

for this operation

for this operation. will

2,

Your The

explain why.

following line

is

to be

more than

V-/>

be necessary for you to use your Shirring Plate lesson on the use of the Shirrer

ruffle

is

to be placed in the Ruffler.

and must be pulled through so that the finished

edge comes to the right of the blade.

The

last

guide on the

Ruffler underblade can be used to keep this heading even.

The piping which has

first

is

placed

been folded,

following is

line

4

and the band,

inserted following- line

5.

tin.

tin)

Piping a Ruffle and Sewing it to Finished Band at One Operation

If

you have the Five-Stitch Ruffler, the following samples are to be made. If not. make one fullest ruffle and the longest stitch, both with and without a band.

sample using the

Plaiting Adjust the Ruffler for

following the directions

plaiting,

Try out the Ruffler. using various lengths of stitch in order that you may know just the Try the Ruffler with a effect the stitch has on the plaiting.

given

your instruction book.

in

scant plait by turning the adjusting screw to the

left.

Make your sample on organdie and crease down each makes it. You will find it much easier to

plait as the Ruffler

press your plaiting

if

you do

it

in this

way.

(111. Til)

Sample

Made

of Organdie.

Stitch Plaiting

to be

Five-

(111.

Plaiting

for

711

and Sewing to a Band or Garment at One Stitching

(111.72) I

The sample of plaiting and sewing to making a ruffle and stitching to a band

a at

11 c

Sue.

i

Plaitii!

F.,i

i

n

band at one operation is made exactl) as directed one sewing, except that the live-stitch device is

used.

You

will find

the Ruffler.

You

it

quite easy to

will also find

it

make

pretty collars and vests

quite easy to

(All samples of

work

make trimmings

now for

after learning

summer

to be sent to the Institute.)

dresses.

how

to

use,

Lesson No. 8

The Hemming Lesson- -Hemming MAKING A TAILORED PLACKET

A

Towel

LESSON

No.

8

THE HEMMER LESSONâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; HEMMING A TOWEL For the inexperienced operator, the Hemmers require more practice than any of the other first hems you make are not perfect.

The material must be guided at all times so that too much or too little goods will not be fed into Attachments, so do not become discouraged when the the Attachment, causing the

The mer

hem

Hemmer can be applied Hemmer in place

rule for operating the

or the

Hemmer

point where the

Attach the

Set.

hem

is

to be uneven.

to start, fold

the needle.

Lower

too

much

The Adjustable Hemmer

is

being fed

in,

too

If

cloth

little

rule that it

is

it

under

hold the

left,

the

Hemmer Set. By Hemmer is adjusted

Hemmer

73)

with Cloth Inserted

must be followed when using the Hemmers

is

to hold the cloth in a straight

inserted in the Attachment.

When hemming Never

in,

is

left.

ill.

The

fed

is

bringing

hem

narrow hem.

Cut of

line after

left,

place of the

in

simply loosening the screw, and sliding the guide to the right or for a wide or

the

beginning of the

hold the cloth to the

used with some machines

is

Hemmer from

in the

until the

the presser bar and proceed to sew.

if

Hem-

Beginning at the

foot.

up one-eighth of an inch of the edge for a distance of about

two inches, creasing the fold. Insert the folded edge up and around the spoon, then draw it toward you cloth to the right;

Foot Hemmer, Adjustable

to the

of the presser

pull

over a seam, always press the seam as

your material, as

will cause

this

it

flat

to stretch

as possible before starting to sew.

and your hem

will not

come out

even with the garment.

When hemming

soft material that

is

liable to stretch

Paper should also be used Table linen

may

to

hem

a soft bias edge, as

be run through the

be ready for the hand sewing and

much

Hemmer

is

it

over the feed to prevent the goods from puckering and the

better to insert a piece of paper

hem from it

will

stretching.

keep the cloth from stretching.

without using thread.

time saved.

Your

linen

will then

Hemming and Sewing on

Lace with the Foot

Hemmer

(111.

Hemming and Sewing on Lace

You

will find that

illustration.

you have a small

Hemmer

with the Foot

74)

Hemmer

very similar to the one shown in the above hem with this Attachment lace may be

After you have learned to make a plain

inserted in the slot at the right.

You must

guide your

hem

with one hand and the lace with

the other.

You must spend some time at practice with your Hemmer. your time, as they will save you many hours of labor.

You

will

be well repaid for

Projects for Lesson No. 8

Hemming Toweling A

small piece of toweling

is

to be

hemmed

with the size

one or size two Hemmer.

The

material must not be pulled, as the lines will not

exactly match

if

this

When hemming

is

towels leave the thread ends sufficiently

may be tied, and after one thread is may be threaded into a hand-sewing needle and the hem caught together with a whip stitch.

long in order that they cut the other the edge of

(111.

Hemmed

Toweling

75)

done.

Turning the

Hem of Table Linen, While

Making it

Hemmer may

the

machine

The

size

Ready

for the

Hand Work

desirable to have table linen

is

the

is

It

make

be used to

hemmed by

hand,

For

work

the turning.

this

not threaded.

one

Hemmer

the linen before starting to

used and a thread

is

hem.

You

is

pulled in

will find that

much

time has been saved through following this suggestion.

(111.

Table Linen Turned with the

76)

Hemmer

Hemming

a Kitchen

Towel

Purchase one yard of toweling and hem the ends by Hemmer. Whip the hems at the edge as suggested

using the in the

size

above

text.

We

would suggest that you use

either the

one or size two Hemmer.

(111.

77)

Quilting

Fold a crease in the cloth to be quilted as a guide for the first line of stitching, thereafter guiding each succeeding line by holding the cloth so that the last line of stitching made is run directly

under the guide, as shown

in the illustration.

(All samples of

work

to be sent to the Institute.)

Sleeve Placket for Shirt This tailored placket

ij

used on men's shirts and tailored shirt waists.

Before stitching up sleeve, placket must be faced.

Cut opening four inches deep about one inch from fold on under side of sleeve, on to draft, point of pattern on stripe, or matching line of gash.

stripe.

Cut facings according

|

IN

-IN -if\j

in

(III.

7

i-

IN (111.

Under slash.

A)

right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve on under side from edge turn facing back on seam and then on line of slash turn in

Facingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; hay

l inch Stitch /%

B

;

;

of

%

inch on other side and stitch on edge.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

For Upper Facing Lay right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve; stitch 's-inch from edge. Open seam flat. Fold facing to right side, so point of placket comes in line with gash.

Turn in J^-inch around point and on long side, stitch twice across just below end of gash.

Lesson No. 9

The Braiding Lessonâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Making

Smocking

A

Linen Scarf

LESSON

No. 9

THE BRAIDING LESSONâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAKING A LINEN SCARF

(111.

79)

Directions for Using the Underbraider Insert the braid in the Underbraider by threading

machine as shown

when using

front,

the

in the instruction

the Underbraider.

(See

To Copy Braiding designs

may

it

Always use

book.

111.

through the tube, then attach the braider foot,

which

is

cut

it

to the

away

in

81.)

Braiding Designs

be purchased at any pattern

and should be continuous as if you wish to save copies of any pattern pin the design to the sheets and stitch with the sewing machine without usin°thread in the needle. The braider foot instead of the sewing foot should be used for this nearly as possible.

Use

counter

several sheets of ordinary wrapping paper

;

work, as pattern torn

it

allows the operator to follow the design better, just as in braiding.

then pinned or basted to the material and after the design

is

The perforated

worked the paper

is

off.

To

Start Braiding

Insert the braid in the Underbraider

Lower comes it

is

the presser foot

and

in the center of the braid.

The

with the screw driver.

consists of short curves

;

it

is

and attach

stitch for a short If

stitch

it

is

to

it

to the -machine.

distance to

make

sure the line of stitching

one side adjust the Braider over

slightly by

pushing

for braiding should be of ordinary length unless the design

then better to have the stitch a

trifle

shorter.

The braiding design

should be stamped on the wrong side of the material.

To Turn With

the needle piercing the braid, raise the presser bar and turn your cloth in the proper

direction, lower the bar to

a Square Corner

and proceed

to sew.

By

following these directions you will be enabled

turn a square corner perfectly and at the same time keep the goods from puckering.

|

Finishing the Ends of Braid

When

the braiding

punch

finished

is

a hole in the material with the point of

wrong

or the stiletto, push the braid through to the

when doing

this the hole

made by

side

and fasten by hand.

the scissors

If care

taken

is

the stiletto can hardly be detected.

Kinds of Braid to Use Several different kinds of braid is

soutache, which comes

pillows, scarfs, etc.,

is

may

be used with the Underbraider, but the most popular

Another braid that is used for fancy work such as This braid also comes in silk or cotton and in a variety

in silk or cotton.

the pigtail braid.

The

of shades and colors.

and

s;old

cord braid can also be used with the Underbraider.

silver

Projects for Lesson No. 9

The

braid and material can be of any color.

must come

in the center of the

The

stitching

braid and the tension must be

perfect.

If to

your design consists of sharp curves

run the machine slowly

in

it

will be

necessary

order to follow the pattern.

Braiding Net

When

braiding net

perforated on paper, as this material It is

and keep

it

it

necessary to have the design

is

would be impossible from stretching.

it

when braiding

fectly flat

stamp on

often necessary to insert another piece of paper under

the braider foot next to the feed of the machine.

true

to

chiffon.

This

will

This

is

also

keep the material per-

and the appearance of the finished work

will

pay for

the extra care taken.

(til.

si

l

Braiding With Pigtail Braid This sample to be made of pigtail braid. this style of braid

it

is

When

using

better in chose a pattern with the lines

not too close together, as

the

braid

flattens

out after

it

is

stitched.

A

pillow or hand hag

this braid.

instructor.

I

III.

s-

For

this

is

very effective

when trimmed with

sample use the design furnished by your

Braided Loops

Sew

a strip of fine lawn through the Binder,

attach the Braider to the machine and sew a of braid through the center of the strip. the loops as described in Lesson

(111.

row

Finish

2.

83)

Braiding a Scarf or Pillow

(in.

Your

instructor will furnish

you with a braiding pattern for a scarf and

suggest that you use both, thus making a very practical linen or crash in tan or white as desired

The

This

and soutache braid

in

living-room

pillow.

or

den.

We

would

Purchase

a contrasting color.

and pillow are very pretty made of tan linen and braided with golden-brown The wide hem may be hemstitched. (See directions below for hemstitching.)

scarf

silk braid.

The

for

set

sn

and one-half yards of two yards and two pieces of

set will require three

scarf alone requires

linen or crash

and three pieces of braid.

braid.

To Make Hemstitching Hemstitching

is

a line of open

work made by drawing out

cross threads in successive small clusters.

Draw

as

manv

parallel threads

and fastening the

threads from the material as desired

:

at the top of the

Baste the

Begin

We

hem.

hem

close to the

at the right

hand

three or four cross threads.

Hold the thread in Take the hemming

suggest that you

the

form

stitch

[111.

drawn

make

a three-inch

(See

threads.

111.

hem

in

your scarf.

86.)

hemming. Pointing the needle towards you, take up Bring the thread to the right and across the front of this group.

side as for

and catch

of a loop,

through

tihe

hem

only.

in It

the hem, then

draw

the needle through.

should not shown on the front of the scarf.

85

(111.

86)

SMOCKING

(111.

87)

1.

Outline stitch used in embroidery; progress is away from the body; the needle is pointed toward the body in taking each stitch. The long stitch is forward on the surface, while the short back stitch is through the material. The thread is thrown alternately to the right or lower side of the needle, then to the left or upper side. The short back stitch is taken on each dot.

2.

Simple outline

stitch, letting

thread

fall

naturally to right or lower side of needle.

3.

Take up first two dots as for outline stitch, throwing thread to left of needle. Then take up second dot in second row, thread to left of needle. Now take up third dot in second row and throw thread to right of needle. Next, take third dot in first row, letting thread fall to right then, the fourth dot in first row, throwing thread to left, then fourth dot in second row, thread to left; fifth dot in second row, thread to right and so on until all dots in first two rows are taken.

Begin on third row and take up first two dots, letting thread fall to right, then take stitch below second dot in second row, thread falling to right of needle. Take up third dot in second row, throwing thread to left of needle. This gives the appearance of a double stitch. Next take up third dot in third row, keeping thread to left of needle. Proceed as before. just

Note:

Dots are Y\ or J^-inch apart.

(All samples of

Stamping patterns can be bought

work

to be sent to the Institute.)

at

the stores.

LESSON

No. 10

Alteration of Shirt Waist Patterns

MAKING A SHIRT WAIST

LESSON

No. 10

ALTERATION OF SHIRT WAIST PATTERNSâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAKING A SHIRT WAIST The

may

select later

on with your sewing.

Commercial patterns are made

to

fit

model figures and very often need

ready made dresses usually need alteration to

For and then

any dress or coat

directions for the alteration of shirt waist patterns will also apply to

pattern that you

we

this reason

desire to teach

you

alteration,

as

just

properly.

fit

to alter paper patterns rather than to

make

a dress

alter the dress.

To Lengthen

the Waist Line

Very often is

a

garment

cut too short waisted.

is

Hold

spoiled because

it

up

to

the pattern

your figure from the shoulder and

if

is

it

too

short in the waist, cut the pattern as indicated

by

111.

89.

Separate the pattern by pasting a strip of

paper to hold

it

in shape.

The back should

also be altered the

amount and should be cut

(111.

111.

89)

To Add

as indicated

by

same

111.

90.

90)

Fullness to Bust or Increase the

Shoulder Seam

If

you

find

it

necessary to add fullness to

the bust or increase the shoulder line, cut

pattern as indicated by

91 and

111.

your

insert a strip

of paper in the pattern.

The back must amount as shown by

also 111.

be

altered

the

same

92.

Oil.

on

(111.

92)

To Lengthen

the Sleeve

If the sleeve is too short

the pattern as

shown by

You must

111.

If

from the elbow down the

at these

two points

the sleeve

shown by

111.

at the cuff

it

94.

order to

in

you take the length from the sleeve

sleeve will

draw and

all

pull up.

93)

To Add

If

to the cuff cut

93.

always alter a sleeve

keep the proper shape.

(III.

from the under arm

Fullness to the Sleeve

too tight cut the pattern through the center as

is

If

you then

find

it

necessary to tighten the sleeve

can be done by taking

it

in at the

under arm seam

from the elbow down.

The after

it

sleeve should not be altered

has been attached to the

arm

from the elbow down

until

hole.

(III. 9-fl

To Shorten

the Waist Line

For a short waisted tern as

shown

in

111.

figure over lap the pat-

95 and pin or paste the fold

in position.

The back must 111.

also be altered as

Do

not

folding too large a tuck.

make It

is

they correspond. (in.

no

the mistake of

better to

the figure and then the pattern to

95)

in

96.

CAUTION.

(III.

shown

make

measure sure that

To Make

Smaller in the Bust or Shoulder Line

Cut the pattern and overlap as shown 111.

97.

Measure the pattern and too full overlap at the point

A cause is

garment it

(111.

97)

Never

alter

at

the

in

111.

also

98.

properly.

fit

A

pattern which

and hang

in a

very ugly manner.

98)

To Shorten

Overlap the pattern

shown

is

very often unsatisfactory be-

is

does not

the back

if

too full in front or back will cause the garment

to bulge

(111.

in

the Sleeve

two points indicated by

from the bottom or the top of the sleeve only

as

111.

99.

it

will

spoil the shape.

Never

tom

try to alter the sleeve for length by cutting off the bot-

as this too will spoil the

appearance of the finished sleeve.

an.

To Make

Sleeve Narrow in Width

Overlap the pattern as shown

seam should be taken fit

the

arm

(III.

100)

in the

in

111.

100.

same amount

to

The under arm

make

waist

sleeve properly

hole.

Never take the seam.

99)

Always

fullness

from

a

alter as here directed.

sleeve by

sewing

in

a

deep

MAKING A SHIRTWAIST

This attractive blouse, which

made

is

of

white

fine

organdie, can be fashioned from lawn, batiste or thin if

you prefer.

pleased

you

if

However, we select

believe

organdie, as

you

will

material

this

silk

be more easily

is

laundered and quite easy to sew on.

made

If

/

2l

of 40-inch organdie

yards of material

2

@

will require:

it

.75c

$1.88

One-half dozen buttons

10

Thread

05

(size 100)

Total Cost

(111.

The

$1.65

101)

lesson on the alteration of patterns will allow

pattern you purchase for use with this lesson.

you

to

properly

the plain shirt waist

fit

All trimmings arc added before the blouse

and

is cut.

your material two fronts from the one width, tuck both sides of the material. If the material is not wide enough to allow for the cutting of two fronts measure enough for two fronts and make your tucks in one continuous length. of material required for the length of the front,

Measure the amount

is

wide enough

if

for the cutting of the

to allow

To Trim the Blouse Tuck your material in two groups of five pin tucks very close together. These clusters should be started about two inches from the edge of your material and should be two inches apart. Make two clusters of tucks. The space between the tucks will allow for your plaited trimming to be attached.

To Cut

the Strips for Plaiting on the cross wise of the material from selvedge to selvedge and may be measured and cut with your cutting gauge set at "F." Measure around your collar, cuffs and down the front and allow three times this length for plaiting strips.

Cut sufficient strips and sew them together in one continuous strip and then hem one edge with the narrow foot hemmer. Press well before plaiting.

The

strips for plaiting should be cut

Plaiting the Strips

Try out your your

may

ruffler

with a small piece of the material you are using for your blouse.

stitch to bring the plaits quite close together. set

that the

your

ruffler for a fine scant

machine

will

make.

gather or you

Plait or gather

your

If

may

you do not have the

we can

start

it

in

strips

our next lesson.

required for the width of material you are using.

when

selecting your pattern.

Set

vou

use the fullest plait and the longest stitch

and bring

to

next

material for washable dress, and dress pattern 8475 Pictorial Review Style of similar style; so

five stitch ruffler

The Note

P>.

class.

or another pattern

pattern will state the illustrations

given

Also bring

number

in

lesson

of yards

No,

11

LESSON Making

No. 11

the Blouse- -Continued

A WASHABLE DRESS

LESSON

No. 11

MAKING THE BLOUSE CONTINUED Before

this lesson

also have fitted

been attached

you

will

You

will

to cut the blouse after the plaiting

has

have made the tucks and the plaitings for your blouse.

your paper pattern so that you are ready

to the front.

To Apply

the Plaiting to the Front of the Blouse

Find the center of the plain space between the groups of tucks and place the unfinished edge of the plaiting on this Stitch

Fold back front of waist so that wrong side of goods faces up.

line.

This makes a receiving tuck that

front edge of fold using the presser foot for a guide.

holds the

ruffle.

fully explained

may

This tuck

be stitched

flat

on the right

side.

This operation will be care-

by your instructor.

Cut the blouse after the tucks are made and the

frills

on the ruffled and tucked length of goods, so that the shoulder and collar

Cut back

arm. tucks

may

front

box

line,

plain,

applied.

Lay

having tucks and or

the front of the pattern

group of tucks begin

for

at the point of

turned toward the

ruffles

extra trimming several groups of

Cut a piece of goods 2 /i inches wide for

be added. plait,

first

l

turn edge on both sides and baste plaiting.

At-

tach to right front, face with plain material and stitch on right side,

one row of stitching fastening

This method of making

together.

all

trimmings and cutting a garment from a plain commercial pattern is

one which we believe you will find of untold value to you.

102)

(111.

This method

will also enable

you

to

make

quite original trim-

mings both for your underclothes and for your shirtwaists and dresses.

The shoulder seams and under arm seams should be basted with on the

sleeves should be

much

easier

when sewing when

up or

right

out they should be pinned while the garment

is

the cuffs attached before being set in the arnrs-eye, as

it

let

to

made and

handle a sleeve than a whole blouse.

in sleeves that

they hang properly.

cutting your blouse, as they will assist

As you cuffs also.

tween

to be taken

seam on the

figure.

The is

seams need

If the

side.

the

will note

Cut two

stitch,

from

collars

111.

you

in placing

make

101, the tiny frills

and four

cuffs,

one for

Particular attention should be paid

Follow the notches on your pattern carefully sleeve.

attractive trimmings for the collar

lining.

then turn to the right side and press.

your

Raw

Place edges even with the elges are

all

inside

and

ruffle in

collar

and be-

and cuffs

are then joined to their proper places.

The fastening.

cuffs are fastened with tiny pearl buttons.

The bottom

of the blouse

be left sufficiently long to be tied.

These buttons are also used for the front

may be hemmed and

a tape or elastic

band run

in

or

it

may

Hand Made Buttonholes While possible

it

we

has been our desire

believe

you

all

through

You

tonholes to finish a blouse.

this

sewing course

to teach as little

hand work

as

nothing that can take the place of hand made butwill find that your garments go together so quickly when using

will agree that there

is

our mechanical sewing methods that you will have time to apply a hand made touch to finish your garments.

You should, therefore, measure very and only cut them as you make them. If you

Buttonholes should always be of even distance apart. carefully just

where each button hole

to be cut

is

them they

cut several of the holes before sewing

Many

will stretch out of shape.

button holes

are very unsightly because of this trouble.

To prevent the material from slipping and making an uneven cut we would suggest that you baste around the buttonhole before cutting. Buttonholes are stranded to hold them in shape while working.

Bring the needle up at one end of the buttonhole, and allowing the thread to lie along the cut on the right side of the material, sew down at the opposite end.

Do the same on the opposite end of the cut and sew down opposite the first stitch and fasten the thread. If the material is inclined to fray it is better to overcast the buttonhole before working *s it.

To Make

the Buttonhole Stitch

Place the buttonhole over the forefinger of the

thumb and it

is

finger.

Begin

work

to

left

hand, holding

it

in

position with the

Insert the needle and while

the buttonhole close to the end.

pointing towards you, bring the thread from the needle eye around to the

Draw

needle.

left under the forms a purl on the edge. Conto the end of the buttonhole taking care to sew in the same amount of

the thread through

tinue these stitches

make

material each time you

and you

will see that

it

a stitch.

To

Finish the

End

of the Buttonhole

When you

have reached the end of the cut in your buttonhole, pass the thread up and down through the goods until two or three threads cross the end of the slit close to the buttonhole stitches. This will form a bar. Take several buttonhole stitches over this bar and continue to

make

the other side of the buttonhole.

Care should be taken not

to

cut the buttonhole too large for the button to be used.

A We

are

Read

now

ready

directions

to

Washable Dress

begin our washable dress.

which come with your pattern very carefully,

test

tern to material and cut dress under the direction of your instructor.

tucked, you will

make your tucks

first,

and If

alter same, pin pat-

your dress

is

to be

unless pattern allows for them, then place material on pat-

tern and cut.

After the dress

is

cut

it

should be basted and

fitted

As

the majority of people are wearing their dresses 6 inches

ing a 6 inch ruler which

from the

skirt,

ruffles, etc.

floor

we

are furnish-

think will be very useful to you in hanging your skirt and in number-

ways. If you prefer your dress shorter you any of the department stores at a nominal cost.

less other

in

we

Stitching

ready for finishing.

waist and sleeves and finishing placket should be done at home, also plaitings.

will

probably be able to buy a skirt hanger

Lesson 12 should be well studied and all simple projects worked out before class. Chose from any of the following designs the style of trimming you are going to use. You will note that many ways of trimming the same pattern can be worked out.

Organdie and Cross Tucks

Simplicity voile.

is

making

In

the keynote of this lovely the

peplum

for this dress,

little

we

frock of batiste or

first

make our

piece

of cross-tucking the width Ave desire, stitch the lace on each side,

then cut the material for the

hem

hem

twice the width of the finished

plus J^ inch for a turn on each edge.

Stitch lace on to double

From

hem.

finished peplum, subtract the width of

and cut the upper section

this

the desired length of the

hem and

the cross-tucking

amount, plus two inches allowed for

finishing.

Join lace to upper section of peplum, and follow general directions for

making waist and

sleeves.

Serge and Military Braid

There

nothing smarter than a tailor-made frock of tricolette

is

or serge, and this model

is

especially suitable for these materials.

Military braid makes a very effective trimming for this dress.

The

braid can be stitched in position with the edge-stitcher without

basting.

Measure and mark with

to be sewed, attach edge-stitcher,

tailor's

chalk where the braid

and proceed with your work.

Ease braid when stitching so material

would be well

Follow seams.

"to

all

try

it

will

on a small piece of material

not pucker.

must be

plain,

It

first.

general directions for washable dress except

All seams in wool

is

for

and finished with binding.

Flowered Voile and Tiny Ruffles

charming dress can be made of flowered

This

trimmed with effective

can be

and launder

hem on

there

are also a time-saver, as they

trimmings

to trim this dress

at the

would be

is

still

another way, and that

is

pipings can be cut with the bias gauge.

Chambray

gingham or

little

Your tucker

linen.

Gingham and Tucks

or

made

dress can be

will

come

of chambray,

very handy with this

in

model.

In

making peplum,

3 inches

more on

and your marker

if

your pattern does not

the length for 8 tucks.

and the space between the tucks In

making

the vest of tucks

a strip of material

and cut

call for tucks,

)/\

1^

trifle

over

j4,

inch

inch wide.

and

lace,

After the strip

first.

allow

Set your tuck guide at

This makes the tuck a

at 3.

it

is

would be well to tuck tucked, lay on pattern,

off the desired lengths, join the lace to the strip

with the

edge-stitcher.

For the

collar

cut

length) 5 inches wide. it

measures 4 inches.

off

After

if

one wishes

/ l

2

it

or 4 yards of is all

material

it.

(on the

tucked, trim each side so that

This gives a more even edge.

the collar and cuffs can be

material

3

bound or piped with

Crushed or plain

have

The edge

of

plaid or striped

belt of material.

ruffles

and

in dress.

to pipe the reversed

pepluni, collar, vest and cuffs with satin.

prefer to have vest of tucked white organdie.

This practical and stylish

to

same time.

correspond with predominating color

belt of taffeta to

And

to dress or

and

are very pretty and

Ruffles

They

easily.

made and sewed

Another way

The

of the same.

ruffles

voile,

Belt of satin.

Some

people

may

White Organdie and This dainty

Frills

made

frock can be

little

trimmed with narrow

of plain white organdie,

plaitings of colored organdie, or of colored or-

gandie trimmed with white plaitings, or again organdie in any shade which you be

.--ÂŁ<s

made

same

of the

The width

at the

The young

vidual.

from 45

desire,

\

bottom of the

girl usually likes

or over-skirt

peplum has

according to the indi-

skirt varies

extremes, so her skirt

is

a reversed

a

little

hem and narrow

As

the cuffs

and two pieces for the

assume that your

will

You

lace

and

collar are double

collar.

wrong

same

Baste

plait-

mcn seam

turn

See that collar and lining

perfectly smooth, and then baste around neck-line.

Baste collar to

with a narrow bias facing of same material.

right side of facing to

if

collar, laying right sides together,

and baste around outside edge.

finish

you wish

val.

plaitings are all finished.

around outside edge of upper

and

we

notice

stitch in place.

then baste under part of collar to plaiting, stitch *4

waist,

girl

will

hem, the directions for which are given

to be a little daintier.

cut four pieces for cuffs

lie

anywhere

and for the young

for others 2 yards.

Plaitings can be edged with very

to right side

is

For the average person we

fuller

Set the plaiting at top of

in this lesson.

ings

of

/> yards, a satisfactory width.

would suggest V/2 yards, and

We

made

can be

l

The peplum

your frock

it

and the trimmings can

material.

48 inches around the bottom.

to

have found

that the

may

The

laid to right side of collar, stitched, then turned

is

and stitched again.

side of waist

The

cuffs are

made

the

as the collar.

Vest Cut vest and turn one inch

%

to

wrong

side.

Baste in plaiting to fold on wrong side, turn back

inch of the inch you have turned over and turn again so that

Now

stitch

vest

plaiting in place

the dress

is

on right

and

side,

and

also catch in

the facing

if

facing.

is

all

raw edges are covered

up.

carried up far enough one stitching will sew

After your sleeves, collar and vest are put

in place

ready to be put together.

Adjust gathers of

skirt

and peplum

to belt

and baste; gather waist

at

bottom, and pin to

when properly adjusted sew, turn raw edge of waist in and sew to skirt can be made of ribbon in a contrasting shade, or can be made of the same belt is to be made of the same material, cut double, lay right sides together,

top of belt and then again.

The

material. stitch

belt

If the

and turn inside

out.

the outside, as that takes

See that

away from

belt

is

smooth, then press but do not

the daintiness of the dress.

Tack

one wishes to have a sash, belt could be cut very much longer and care for a sash, the belt can be fastened under the

arm with

snaps.

belt

stitch

belt

on very

tied in back.

If

again on

lightly.

If

you do not

LESSON

A

No. 12

Washable Dress, Continued

.

LESSON

No. 12

WASHABLE DRESS â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued Pictorial

Type

Review Pattern 8476

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Afternoon

or similar style pattern.

dress.

Materials organdie, dimity, gingham, chambray, linen.

Voile,

Trimmings Lace, tucks, self-trimmings, such as ruffles or plaitings, reversed

hem

finished with cord or

piping and buttons.

Findings Net or Seco silk 36 inches wide.

for lining

if

desired; ]A yard of material 72 inches wide, or

1

yard of ma-

terial

Belting, waist

measure plus 3

inches.

Snaps, hooks and eyes.

Thread.

Pattern.

1

Test and alter pattern.

2.

Follow general directions.

Do

not forget to allow for

all

tucks and plaits before cutting.

Preparing Belting 3.

Always shrink your belting before making up the dress, as you will find after it is laundered it will be from )A inch to 1 inch too small around the waist, and will cause you a great deal of trouble and inconvenience to fix

Allow waist measure plus two

Turn one inch hems to wrong side and

Sew

it.

inches. stitch.

the eyes to the left side so the loops extend out beyond the end of the belt about '4 inch.

Set the hooks back on the right end about

Y\

inch, so

when

the belt

is

hooked, the ends of

the belt will just meet.

Mark

center front or center back.

Basting 4.

Piaste

seams

in

waist, sleeves, skirt

and peplum, allowing for placket on the

left side

of the

skirt.

Gather if

skirt

and peplum

at the top, waist at the

bottom, and sleeves

at the

necessary.

Turn reversed hem on Turn hem

in

the

peplum and

pin.

top of vest, and bind the sides.

Close center seam of collar.

Lay

the right sides together and stitch

Turn and

baste

to

around the outside of the

collar.

waist with center back and notches matchinsr.

top and bottom

Fitting Skirt 5.

Put the

belt

on the

figure.

Pin the center front and back of the skirt to corresponding points in the

Draw up

the gathers and fasten.

Adjust the fullness

and so skirt hangs evenly and center back fall in vertical

at the waist line, so the gathers fall straight,

bottom.

the

at

belt.

See

Pin.

the

that

center

front

directions.

Attach the peplum

in the

same way.

Waist 6.

Pin the vest

in place.

Pin the center front and center back to

Draw up

belt.

and arrange on the

the gathers at the waist line

Pin.

belt.

Take

in

or

let

out

extra fullness at the seams on the right side.

Mark armhole

See that the waist does not wrinkle.

Fit neck.

Pin sleeves to place and notice length.

Look

for general lines

Mark new seam

lines if alterations are necessary.

Baste again and

refit to

see

if

alterations are properly

line.

and ease of

fit.

made.

Seams 7.

Waist, %-inch French seams.

Armhole, plain seam, bound.

Skirt, plain seams.

Placket 8.

Continuous binding with binder.

Turn under

down by

the top edge and catch

hand.

The other edge

is

an extension.

left for

Finish at Waist Line 9.

Sew

skirt

Sew

waist to top of

and peplum

bottom of

Turn

in

to top of belt.

belt.

If a

long waist line

In that case

belt.

it

would be

hem

lower edge of waist and

is

desired,

well to allow

to belt, covering

the waist should be attached to 1

inch on the length.

raw edge of

skirt

and peplum.

Collar 10.

Your

collar

is

now

basted to waist with center back and notches matching, wrong side of

collar to right side of waist. all

Stitch

Lay

bias strip

1

inch wide to right side of collar and baste

around.

T

4 inch from

Turn facing over

to

edge.

wrong

side of waist, turn in J4 inch

stitching exactly on the edge.

and

stitch to waist,

with the

first

Cuffs 11.

Double; lay right sides together and

wrong

to

side of sleeve.

stitch

Stitch.

on three

Turn

the

on the other edge of cuff and

Turn

l inch in /\

Turn

cuff back on sleeve.

sides.

seam down

Turn.

Lay wrong

side of cuff

into the cuff.

stitch to sleeve.

Belt or Girdle 12.

a.

Lay

Double.

right sides together, stitch

Turn

right side out.

Turn

in

edges at open end and

Hem

all

around the edges, leaving one end open.

stitch.

around, arrange on figure, and tack loosely at front, sides and back.

b.

Single.

c.

Ribbon or

a.

Sleeves

b.

An

c.

Vest

may

be tucked or trimmed with insertion.

d.

Vest

may

be

e.

Tunic may be tucked or trimmed with insertion

/.

Reversed hem,

all

silk.

Suggestions 13.

may

be short.

additional collar and cuff set

made

g.

Pockets

may

of tucked organdie.

of tucked organdie. to

correspond with

vest.

and cuffs may be piped with plaid if dress is of plain material, or narrow plaiting may be set in reversed hem, vest, collar and cuffs.

collar

vice versa; or

may be made

be added.

,-> :,