TT? i&
First Course in
Modern Mechanical Methods
Home Sewing
Copyright 1920
The
Institute of
Modern Sewing
Tl
C
of
1
'4>
Institute of Modern Sewing, Inc.
SEWING COURSE
Digitized by the Internet Archive in
2011 with funding from
The
Library of
Congress
http://www.archive.org/details/firstcourseinmodOOinst
Lesson No.
The Care
And
1
Use Of The Sewing Machine
©CI.A576327
I
)
LESSON
No.
1
THE CARE AND USE OF THE SEWING MACHINE
Oiling and Cleaning Sewing machines require If
long.
to be cleaned
and
used moderately for only a few hours
oiled daily
day,
a
if
they are used continuously
all
day
and cleaning twice a week
oiling
is
sufficient.
A
good quality of sewing machine
bearing where there
The
plate
is
treadle
of
friction, as often as
may
and dust which
the lint
removed.
The
and
pitman.
in the
The bearings should be
collect.
removed occasionally
when
oiled inside
to
the face
shuttle race requires occasional oiling, as well as the ball bearings in the
The
rufHer and the tucker also require, occasionally, a small drop
oil.
Machines benzine,
which
making sure
are
gummed from
that there
using poor
no flame
is
The machine should be run long enough
in the
away
to cut
the life of the machine,
make
run easier and
it
oil
should
room when such the
oughly cleaned and oiled with good sewing machine
it
be required.
face plate and the needle plate of the sewing machine should be
away
clean
any
is
should be used, and a small drop applied to each
oil
lighter,
gummed
oil.
and
be
oiled
with
kerosene or
volatile liquids are being used.
and then should be thor-
oil,
Attention to these details will increase also permit
it
do better sewing than
to
could otherwise accomplish.
Adjusting the Tensions All sewing machines require occasional tension
There are two tensions
fabrics.
the
:
thread as thread as
To
it
adjustment
comes from the spool
to
suit
the
The upper
upper and the lower.
— the
comes from the bobbin.
it
tighten the tension turn the adjusting
equally to both upper and lower tension. (in. i)
A
stitch
screw
The upper
to
left.
the right
—
to
This applies
tension
is
adjusted
by means of the thumb screw, the lower tension by means of small screw, which
is
turned with a screw driver.
which approixmates perfection
amount of tensions above and below.
The
various
lower tension controls the
loosen the tension turn the adjusting screw to the
Testing the Tensions
to
stitch
tension controls the
(
See
in
appearance
will
best
be
obtained by an equal
111. 8.
shuttle tension spring should occasionally be
removed from
the shuttle, and
all
the
lint
and dust or knots of thread should be removed from under this spring and then the spring properly replaced.
This applies
to
both round and long shuttle.
;
The Needle Should be
Avoid Cutting Thread
to it is
quite possible with
wrong
the
Correctly Placed in the Sewing Machine
most sewing- machines
position, so that every time the
The needle should always be and
set in
rests in the long groove, then passes
short groove until
it
reaches the point.
the thread then rests safely in the groove
wheel
to set the needle
is
with the groove
turned the thread
is
in
cut.
down
such a position that the thread passes
through the eye of the needle resting in the When the needle is thrust through the cloth
and
is
thus protected.
(See
111.
2.)
(111.
A
Thread Should Rest
needle with a dull or bent point or one which
never be used.
in
Groove
It
much cheaper
is
to
is
defective in any
way should
use the required size of needle than
is
it
A
have work spoiled.
bent or imperfect needle can injure your fabric and completely ruin the appearance of the seams, by puckering and breaking threads in your to
cloth.
\
/
/
Selecting Proper Needles
(111.
Note Eyes
Same
3)
in
Position
In buying needles, if you find it necessary to accept a substitute which perhaps was not made for your sewing machine, you should always measure the needle from the top of the shank to the eye, and that measurement should be exactly the same as your original needle. Whether the point is a trifle longer or shorter does not necessarily matter.
(See
111.
3.)
Your Machine Should Feed
A
Straight
machine should feed straight without guiding the cloth when the presser foot is placed A machine which does not do this is the center of a straight piece of material. defective in one of three ways. It either has a poor needle,
directlv in
feed or a defective presser foot.
a defective stituting a
new needle and
then have a repair
man
if this
Try sub-
does not cure the defect
attend to the presser foot or feed
immediatelv.
Proper Sized Needles and Thread
One (III.
Sewing Straight
Sewing Crooked
4)
should not expect to get good workmanship
using poor thread or a needle which thread or perhaps too small for
is
when
too large for the
it.
The thread should be selected to suit the fabric which i>
thread.
Reasonably
fine
to
be stitched, and the needle correctly selected to
thread always gives better results than thread which
For a fine material such as organdie, fine lawn, batiste and similar from 120 to 150 thread with a needle which corresponds.
is
fit
the
too coarse.
fabrics,
one should use
Regulate Your Stitch The
should then be regulated to suit the thread which
stitch
after having given
by using a long, coarse that
is
it
may
The adjustment
stitch.
woman
very easy for any
this that a stitch
The
belt
of the length of the stitch
be regulated without any
difficulty
machine
to
this
your
is
and the machine
is
such a small matter
run
will not
to
of the Belt
full
If
it
speed.
power
too loose,
is
If
it
too tight
is
wasted by
is it
causes the
run very hard.
One should if
In other words,
whatsoever.
should be neither too tight nor too loose. slip
being used.
and one should become so thoroughly accustomed
to learn,
The Adjustment having the belt
is
other conditions due consideration do not spoil your bit of workmanship
all
avoid getting the belt soaked with
oil,
as
will invariably slip
it
and cause
difficulty
done.
Every machine should be supplied with a belt as you find it necessary.
The Adjustment The presser needle
is
punch, which enables you to shorten or lengthen
belt
of the Presser Foot and the Feed
foot rests on the feed holding the cloth in position while the
doing the work.
This pressure should be
Heavy
stitched.
light
requires
fabric
or heavy, according to the
heavy pressure and
light
fabric to be
fabric
a
lighter
pressure.
For Adjusting Pressure on Presser Foot
will
chiffon,
net
or fine
silks
and other similar materials, release the
pressure by turning the adjustment screw to the
'
f
left.
Increase the pressure
or neav y materials by turning the adjustment screw to the right.
be found on top of presser bar.
(See
111.
The screw
5.)
Winding Bobbins Great care should be taken in winding bobbins to have the thread placed on the bobbin This will insure an even run of thread from the shuttle, and will prevent
smoothly and evenly.
die line of stitching the thread
lllillllllli Illlllltllllilili
(ill.
Wound
iniiiiiiiilimillni
li.iii,
61
0ptr
°
n
,
:
,i|
:;|,"i'
,,
,j]f
l
(in.7)
A
Bobbin Improperly
Wound
You must
,
comes
..
.
T If the points
from having
a wavering appearance
which
will occur if
off the shuttle in jerks. ..
,
.
,
.
.
..
.
t mentioned herein are given careful attention and, you learn ,
.
and master them thoroughly it will then be very easy indeed to use the Attachments on the machine. A machine which stitches straight with its own presser foot will make perfectly even tucks, will stitch the hem a short distance from the edge, will curn un der the binding evenly, and stitch it evenly, and will do edge-stitching and all other line operatintis with the greatesl possible ease. A machine which does not stitch straight with its own presser foot will under no circumstances do satisfactory work with the Attachments, nor will iit be possible even with the most careful guiding to stitch a straight seam. •,
,
-,
,
•
learn to properly thread the
,
,,
r
i
•
,
•
,1
machine and shuttle from your instruction book.
Before beginning to sew a long seam be sure the bobbin contains enough thread to complete the seam. All adjustments may be made without removing the Attachment in use from the machine.
Always
raise the needle bar to
machine.
its
highest point before fastening any Attachment to the
—
—
— Projects for Lesson No.
(a) Tighten
your upper tension by turning your adjusting screw to the right and loosen
your lower tension by turning the adjusting screw appear
1
in
Your
the shuttle to the left.
stitch will
like this
8)
(III.
(Make Sample
(b)
of a Perfect
Tension)
Loosen your upper tension by turning the adjusting screw
to the left.
Your
stitch wil
then appear like this
(III. 9)
(Make Sample
(c)
of a Loose
Adjust your machine for a perfect
Use
alike as possible.
same number
the
stitch
Upper Tension)
by having upper and lower tensions as nearly
Your
of thread on top as in the shuttle.
correctly ad-
justed tension should have this appearance
(111.10)
(Make Sample
(d)
You must spend
at least
of a
Loose Tower Tension)
one hour of practice with your tensions.
perfectly for heavy cotton material, thin organdie or lawn and
silk.
Make
Adjust your tension a small
sample about
six inches in length of perfect stitching on each of these materials.
and
(e)
Take out your needle and
reset
test
your
works properly.
(f)
Adjust the pressure on your presser bar for thin material and for heavy material.
you have had the pressure silk
stitch to see that
difficulty
was
it
with the print
loo heavy.
Make
it
at least 12
times and each time thread up your machine
of the feed showing on
a small
line silk or chiffon,
(g)
above work are
This project
is
to be
Remove
to be sent direct to the Institute.
worked
out in the presence of your instructor:
belt.
Shorten stitch
to limit.
Loosen both tensions. Release pressure on presser fool.
Remove
needle.
Put machine
in
order and adjust for making perfect
(All samples of
is
If
because
sample of stitching on heavy material and on thin
or georgette. All samples of
it
work
to be sent to the Institute.)
stitch.
Lesson No. 2
The Cutting Gauge
And Binder
)
LESSON
No.
2
THE CUTTING GAUGE AND BINDER The Cutting Gauge and
For^Tndfng For Cording or Piping
(in. 11
The Bias Cutting Gauge
/
/
Have you ever noticed this little Attachment, is made to fit on the point of your scissors and
^-^ch
j
Gauge
is
A'
/
/
iss •z /
•
A'
/
?* f
'
/
ii?3
V
/ / /
if
/
/
'
'
M?
4
/
/
f or
(111.
IS)
Fold the Cloth as Indicated by the Dotted Lines
it
Material that
curved
now be most interested wonder why you did not discover you
will
shown by
Your
111.
shown
in
111.
If
Attach the bias gauge to the
to the letter B.
gauge and cut your bands
14.
bias strips to use with the Binder
the correct width it
you
the Binder
Tnsert your material in the
13.
Material with no starch should measure
adjust
If
in learning to
around corners.
Adjust the blue spring on the Cutting Gauge as
This Cutting °
not cut on the true bias will not successfully bind
is
lines or
To Cut Binding For Use With point of the scissors as
cutting o bias bands?
included in your set of Attachments.
If,
/
y*
it
usec i
s
it sooner. and you will by any chance, you do not find the Cutting Gauge in your box, your instructor will supply you with one. The Cutting Gauge will measure and cut your bias bands for The following directions will enable you to use with the Binder. easily make up a supply of these bands to be kept in your sewing machine drawer or sewing basket, ready to bind seams, arms'-eyes, and to help in many other ways with your sewing. Purchase one yard of thin lawn and fold it as shown by the chart. It is very necessary to cut your material on a true bias.
use
/ /
/
Value
which
have overlooked N«l
Its
is
}{|
must measure from
",-<
to
Jjj
of an inch in width.
of an inch, while starchy material should measure ~s.
not obtained by adjusting the blue spring on your gauge to the letter "B,"
a trifle wider or narrower, as the case
determine the proper width.
may
be.
A
trial
with
the
Binder
will
quickly
To The seams on your
Join
Your Bias Bands
bias strips should be
they will run properly through the Binder.
Lay
the two diagonal ends together as
shown
when the strips are lapped back shown in 111. 15.
be seen that strips as
made as close to the edge as The edges can lie trimmed after
(111.
The Wrong
in
16 and stitch
111.
is
a seam.
in
the edges will be exactly even.
15)
Way
The Right
How
to
Use
to Join
instructor will assist
Cut the binding until the binding
to a point
you with
with the scissors.
comes through the
scroll
binding through the scroll with the
through the
scroll
this part of
your
is
made.
will then
not join your
10)
Strip-s
It
Substitute the Binder for the presser foot, following the directions given
Your
It
Do
(111.
Way
The Binder and
book.
safe in order that
the stitching
in
your instruction
lesson.
Insert the point in the scroll of the Binder
and under the
foot.
It
may
be necessary to draw the
stiletto or the point of the scissors.
As
the binding passes
both edges are turned in neatly.
Binders are of two types: those which are adjustable for the distance of stitching from the edge,
and those which are
not.
The
stitching should always be close to the edge, in order to have
the proper appearance.
The Adjustable
However,
Binder, at
Work
you do not have the adjustable type of Binder the working principle is the same. tell you which type you have with your Attachments. After you have inserted the binding in the Binder Attachment lower the presser bar and
Your
if
instructor will
proceed to sew. folds together.
the illustration. stitching.
You
will find that the
The edge
to be
All seams to be
Attachment folds the
bound should be held
bound should be
in
stitched
cloth as the
the scroll of the
machine
stitches the
Binder as shown
and then trimmed close
to the
row
in
of
Using No. 6 Folded Tape With the Binder Tape which may be purchased ready folded can be used with the Binder. This tape must be number 6 will be the proper width in all stan-
one-half inch in width and you will find that the
dard makes.
The 111.
18.
tape
inserted in the outside slot of the Binder as
is
In this
same manner ribbon or braid may be used.
shown
It
in
must be
one-half inch in width.
Note.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;We
tape ready cut (111.
Ir.sertirg the the
IS)
Folded Tape Binder
in
time.
Your
thirty cents.
would advise for use
instructor
that
you purchase a
with this lesson. will
supply you
It
will
with a
roll of
unfolded
save you
24-yard
much
roll
for
Projects for Lesson No. 2 (A) Binding of Proper Width Cut a
lawn on the true
strip of
bias,
Use With Binder
to
for use with the Binder.
(
See
111.
%
20 inches long and
three separate pieces and stitch together with the machine.
i*icJh
wide.
The seams
Cut
this strip into
are to be trimmed ready
16.)
(B) Your
A
Bound Seam
teacher will demonstrate and assist you with
each operation for thi: lesson.
This oughly.
is
the
Sew up
first
samjJe to be made
;
master thor-
a straight or bias seam with the presser
J and trim off the edge about /& stitching. Adjust the Binder to stitch
foot
inch as
from
close
to
the the
edge of the binding as possible, with the particular kind of material you are using. the scroll
and bind.
Insert the edge of the
The
finished sample should
seam
about six inches in length.
(111.
19)
Sample Mafic of Lawn or Muslin
(C)
An
Outside Curve
The adjustment feature of the Binder will require practice for this operation.
beginner
in
Care must be taken by the
adjusting this Attachment for a curve, as a
wider adjustment
is
necessary than for a straight seam
order to keep the stitching directly on the edge.
in
The
all times must be held well in the and if the curve is sharp it may be stop the machine and raise the presser bar in
edge of the cloth
at
scroll of the Binder,
necessary to
order to turn the cloth properly.
used
in
making such
The
outside curve
is
articles as aprons, scallops, collars,
children's clothes, etc.
(111.
Sample Made of Lawn
or India
in
measure
20)
Linen
(D)
An
Inside
Curve
The
material
a straight line 1
f
the cloth
is
is
held as nearly as possible in
when binding
a curve of this kind.
liable to stretch,
it
is
well to
add a
row of stitching close to the edge before binding.
The
outside
and
which you meet
inside
in
curves
are
conditions
your dressmaking and the time
spent in practicing these two operations will well
worth while.
binding the neck
(111.
Sample Made
Lawn
of
This illustration shows
an
open seam of
The
with
both
fitted
and the surplus material
edges
bound.
(rimmed from the seam, leaving one inch or side.
seam pressed and to l
bias,
it
is
Each edge
is
then bound and the
very sleazy
sometimes necessary to
stitch close
If the material
the edge before binding.
rue
when using
This
is
especially
rattine or voile.
Serge dress seams are often finished
manner.
less
is
flat.
used
An Open Bound Seam
heavy material
on each
is
21)
garment
first
inside curve
or India Linen
(E)
is
The
and armholes of garments.
in this
HMMOMB (111.
82)
Sample Made of Heavy Linen or Broadcloth
lie
in
(F)
A
Bound
Placket
This finish etc.,
where
a
practical for children's drawers, sleeves,
is
wide overlap
is
held as nearly as possible in a straight to
sew
plait
in
The seam
not desired. line,
taking care not
too deeply at the point, as this might cause a
or fold to
form.
On
children's drawers
objectionable, however, to bind in the fold, as
safe seam. scallops, in
this
and
This same condition it
lesson,
present time.
may
as
it
it
is
not
insures a
met with in binding row of scallops they are very much in vogue at the
would be well
is
to include a
Black or white folded tape of taffeta
be purchased in any department store.
cellent
is
This
is
silk
ex-
for finishing the bottoms of scalloped dresses or
underskirts.
Your sample, however, may be made
of any
material bound with white lawn.
(111.
28)
Sample Made of Lawn or India Linen
(G) Bound Buttonholes These Buttonholes are Easy to Make and Wear Well They are
practical for children's waists
back of princess tailored finish
is
slips,
and drawers, the back of dresses, pinafores, the shirtwaists, and for any garments where a
for the front of tailored
desirable.
(111.
Directions for
Do
work out
24)
Making
sit down at the machine and make some of the buttonholes in order to appreciate how easy it is. The binding to be used with the Binder should be cut ~s of an inch wide. For ordinary binding as for seams, trimming, etc., the binding should be cut on the true bias. Binding for making buttonholes should be cut on the crosswise of the material so that it will not stretch when
not try to
laundered.
these directions by "mental arithmetic," but
)
A
shows the
strip of cloth 2 inches wide.
E shows
with crosswise-cut binding: the pencil marks are
C shows
into sections. will
form buttonholes.
1
the sections stitched together
D
is
C
the
same
strip
with both edges bound
inch apart, showing just in
how
to cut the strip
such a manner that the edges
first
bound
with both edges bound, completing the buttonholes.
(A) as wide as you want the distance between the buttonholes. two inches apart, take a strip of material two inches wide and The marks show this strip divided into sections. Each section is one-half bind it as shown in B. If your button is one-half inch across add one-half inch, thus cutting inch wider than the button. If the button is three-quarters of an inch in diameter, add your strip into pieces 1 inch wide. one-half inch and cut strip into sections one and one-quarter inches wide. After your strip is cut into sections sew the nieces together as shown in C, using the presser Bind the edges with binding as shown in D. This makes a finished strip of buttonfoot. holes which are strong and practical for children's clothes.
Always
cut the first strip
Jf the buttonholes are to be
(
E shows the same idea worked out with finer materials Foot Hemmer instead of the Binder is used to finish the
;
the
first strip in
order to get an effect dainty enough to use with
dimity, batiste, etc.
E
shows the edges sewn to another piece of cloth, which in the case of practical sewing would be the garment. This is done when they are in the stage as shown in C, binding the edge of the garment in with the row of buttonalso
holes, then stitching the other edge of the binding flat
on the
garment, using the presser foot.
(111. 25.)
Bound Buttonholes (sample made of heavy muslin)
(H) Button Loops To make and
button loops, attach the Binder to the machine
through a strip of binding about one-half yard This gives you a quarter-inch fold of bias cloth with
stitch
long.
For each loop cut
the edges turned in and stitched securely.
a strip sufficiently long to
Fold the loop
by hand.
shown
in
slip
to a point as
over the button
shown
Insert the ends in the 111.
in
111.
when
8 and sew
hem and
finished. in
shape
stitch in place as
27.
(III. 211)
The Button Loops
)
Practical
Uses of Binder
Binding dress seams.
Binding around armholes. Binding seams, armholes and necks of corset covers and princess
slips.
Binding the neck and sleeves of kimona night gowns. Binding edges of kitchen aprons, fancy aprons and caps.
Using
binding on shirtwaist cuffs.
fine
In this
way
it
is
also
trimming.
USÂŁ d as
Binding loops for buttons.
Bound buttonholes.
271
(111.
Forming
the Loops
(I)
This braid comes This year
cotton.
Many
suits.
times
Binding With Military Braid
in a variety of
widths and colors, also in
it
is
quite the proper finish
it
is
applied
flat
silk
or
for skirts, dresses and
as a trimming, but
more often
it
is
used to bind the edge.
The inserting
braid one-half inch it
in
The next sample
This braid to a
width
may
be used with the Binder by
is
Purchase
a
yard of
this
Braid a straight edge of a piece of serge or broad-
braid for practice. cloth.
in
the outside slot of the scroll.
will be a
so loosely
curve as shown
woven and
in the illustration.
so pliable that
it
will adjust itself
curve perfectly. This braid
is
also very desirable for the
either scalloped or plain.
(
bottom of dresses that are
(111.88)
Sample Made of Woolen
See illustration below.
Material
.111.
20)
Sample Made of Any Woolen Material
(J)
sew
Scallops
Bound With
Silk Military Braid
In
binding the scallops care must be taken at the point to fold the cloth
in
enough of the goods
to insure a safe seam.
in a straight line
and
(K) Straight
Silk
Seam
With Binder
Binding, Used
Straight silk seam binding which
any notion counter on
cially
silk
a roll in either black or white
bias messaline
The
bound with white
and bind a piece of shows a piece of
silk tape.
not try to bind a sharp curve with this straight tape,
may
be perfectly done.
30)
Samples Made of Messaline and Net
LIST OF BINDINGS ys inch lawn cut at 1
2
home
inch or No. 6 folded tape
yi inch military braid }4 inch bias silk binding.
Do
not try to assist the feed by pulling or pushing the work.
assistance
if
your machine
is
properly adjusted.
(All samples of
at
illustration
but a straight edge or slight curve
(111.
be purchased
inch width must be used with the Binder.
soft silk or crepe-de-chine.
Do
may
popular finish for seams, espe-
or heavy woolen dresses.
The one-halt Purchase
a very
is
work
to be sent to the Institute.)
The feed requires no
Lesson No.
Making
A
Kitchen Apron
3
And Night Gown
LESSON
No. 3
MAKING A KITCHEN APRON AND NIGHT GOWN The Kitchen Apron The apron here shown This
percale.
a very practical pattern, as the flare sides
is
cover one well when busy If
you desire
in the
kitchen or about the house.
to use a plain color of contrasting material
may purchase
for the binding you
instructed in Lesson No.
This apron
is
it
and cut
you prefer
If
2.
may purchase
pink or blue, you instructor.
requires one yard of yard wide
bias strips as
to use plain white,
a roll of 24 yards
very attractive
from your
made
if
of
un-
bleached muslin and trimmed with plaid binding. better to
It is
you find for
you
is
If
it
to
buy a good quality of percale; however,
convenient to substitute print,
is
will be necessary
purchase two yards, as the sides must be pieced.
only 24 inches in width, while percale
you are using
seam, as
it
is
36 inches.
print, tear off the selvage
The
seam, using the Binder. finish a
it
if
and bind the
selvage should never be used to
will allow the material to
pucker when
it
laundered.
(111.31)
To Cut
the
Apron
Fold a yard of material on the length-wise fold and place your pattern as a pattern.
apron
may
shown
in
111.
32.
Your
instructor will furnish
This amount of material does not allow for be fastened with a button and buttonhole.
you desire the
ties
you with
ties
and the
However,
if
purchase y& yard more of material.
(111.
The Pattern on
the Material
32)
To Trim
Apron
the
The second row
Bind the outside edge of the apron, using the Binder. in the illustration is called
a French fold and
beneath the Attachment and the binding
is
applied with the Binder.
in the scroll in the
usual manner.
(111.
of trimming as
shown
The apron
placed
(See
111.
is
33.)
33)
The Binder Making French Folds
A
little
practice will enable
pocket as shown in
111.
31
you
to
and attach
make
attractive
trimmings
in
this
manner.
Bind the
to the apron.
To Shape
Band
the
Fold your band on the center fold and crease length-wise give you the exact center line.
Open and
Stitch as indicated by the dotted lines material. (111.
Shaping the
Band
34)
You
Always machine.
You
and one which
will find that will
fit
to
shown in 111. 34. and trim away the surplus fold as
you now have a band nicely shaped
well.
should complete your apron in one hour.
raise the needle to the highest point before fastening
any Attachment to the
Making a Kimona Night Gown The kimona
which
(he ease with of
night
gown
very popular for
is
The
can be made.
it
its
simplicity
and
attractiveness and beauty
underwear depends upon the fineness of material and the careful-
ness of the work, rather than the over-use of laces and embroidery.
The
night
gown may
be
made
of long cloth, nainsook, batiste or
cotton crepe.
Later we will teach you how to for
make
lace
trimmings and tucks
more elaborate underwear. This same simple pattern
gown.
The
sleeves
with tucks and lace.
may
may
be used for the most elaborate
be omitted, the bottom
The neck may be
may
cut square or
V
be trimmed shaped.
(111.33)
How Measure from will also
need
2V2
Cut Your Night
the shoulder to the ankle,
You must purchase
for the hem.
to
Gown
and allow two inches
You
material twice this length.
yards of lace edging.
Follow the chart here given and with the assistance of your you will be able to cut this garment without a pattern. Cut the sleeves amply full, as a tight gown is most uncomfortable and it wears out sooner because of strained seams. If your material instructor
is
not 40 inches in width, Slip the
gown over
out enough. fine
it
will be
necessary to add side pieces.
the head to
make
sure the neck
is
trimmed
Bind the edge of the sleeves and around the neck with
lawn binding.
may
If
you are making a gown of
fine batiste, strips
If, however, you making your garment of heavier material we would advise you not to use it for bindings, as it would lie too clumsy and heavy.
of this material
be used in place of the lawn.
are
Start the binding for the neck at the center back and trim the
binding close at the starting point in order that you this point
finish
when
finishing.
Turn under
may
bind over
the ends of binding
and
by overhanding.
Cutting the
Gown (111.
The
You
are
lace
edge
now ready
is
to be applied to the
to stitch
neck and sleeves
up your long seams.
later.
36)
Up
Stitching
Gown
the Night
Join the under-arm seams, placing the pins in the garment inches apart and $4 of an
presser foot to
and
eliminate
will
stitching
Use
work
mcn from
freely without
basting
a
operation.
in contact (
l />
This will allow your
the edge.
coming
\
Note
Til.
with the pins
37 showing
and trimming.) which
a short stitch
To Make
you to trim seam pulling out.
will enable
stitching without clanger of the
the French
After trimming the seam
narrow as
and sew
this
and
possible,
is
Seam
turn to the
Pin up to hold this seam as
crease on the seam. first stitching,
close,
second seam
close to the
wrong you did
side
and
for your
in position, stitching
it
as
keep the raw edges safely within
still
the seam.
This seam should never show unravelled edges on the right
(111.
should
the Night
Gown
the bottom of the
gown
evenly, turn
a two-inch hem, pinning
it
in
]/\
inch and crease.
position.
Press carefully and stitch close to the edge.
hem
be wide and clumsy.
it
37)
Hemming Trim Turn up
side, neither
When
(See
111.
sewing
38.)
[
j
in the
take fullness out by fine gathers or tiny plaits after edge
is (111.
turned.
A in
3S)
2-inch strip of cardboard used as a measure will assist you
making
You stitching
the
are it
hem accurate. now ready to apply
the lace by
drawing the thread it by hand.
slightly full it and then French knots may be added the appearance of the finished gown. to
to the edge of the binding or over-handing
in the center of the binding.
This adds very
much
to
To Make French Knots French knots which are used in embroidery are made as illus111. 39. After bringing the thread up through the material, take an ordinary back stitch. Wind the thread or silk twice around trated in
draw it through, holding the coils down with the left Then insert the needle over the edge of the coils in the same hole, thus making the knot secure. Do not cut the thread on the needle,
thumb.
the underside, but pass on to the next knot.
(111.
Making French Knots
39)
Lesson No. 4
The Tucker- -Collar Patterns- -Making And Cuff Set
A
Collar
LESSON
No. 4
THE TUCKERâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAKING A COLLAR AND CUFF SET The Tucker and How to Use It Substitute the
may
Tucker for the presser
In order to do this with the greatest ease
foot.
be necessary for you to consult your direction book.
will save
The
you much time and trouble, fold of the first tuck
made by
quent folds are
if
you refer
to
it
Always have
this
book handy, as
it it
freely.
must be made by hand and creased
its
All subse-
entire length.
the Tucker.
The Tucker
in
Operation
After creasing the first fold insert the cloth in the Tucker from the left, between the smoother and the blade, with the cloth to be tucked uppermost, as shown in the photograph lower the presser bar and proceed to sew, keeping the crease against the guide. When the tuck Proceed in like manner for the next is finished, flatten it so that it lies in the proper direction. ;
tuck, creasing
the
hook
does
it
it
along the line
made by
just in front of the marker.
unaided.
When making
the marker, and catching the edge of the
It is
the last tuck,
the needle clamp, in order that no
first
tuck under
unnecessary then to guide the cloth, as the Tucker
throw the operating lever back out of the way of
mark may be made where a mark
is
not desired.
Table for Setting the Tucker
Set
For
Set
Tuck
Guide
Marker
so Pointer
at
points at
jV mcn
1/
tucks with y% -inch space J^-inch tucks with no space .
y& -inch tucks with ^5 -inch space
^8-inch tucks with J4~inch space T ,
4-inch tucks with no space
.
1
1
v/2
1
2
2
2
)4-inch tucks with J^-inch space
2
3
J4-inch tucks with JA-'mch space
2
4
4
4
4
6
6
6
^2 -inch tucks with J/2-inch tucks
no space
.
with ^4-inch space
24-inch tucks with no space
.
Study your Sewing Machine Instruc tion Bo ok n If
1
1
you observe you
will find that
underwear, children's clothes, require tucking of
some
sort.
etc.
tucking
is
c onnection with this lesson
the most popular trimming for
In fact, scarcely a
dainty garment
is
made
all
thin dresses,
that
does not
At It
the present time tucking
it
is
understand
to
But tucking must be exact. not attract. part of the
French underwear
fine
as well as the plainer models.
woman knows how
this feature of sewing.
must be well made. It must be evenly stitched and the spacing cheap ready-made garment trimmed with tucks. It does long and the thread is coarse. This brings us to the vital how to make beautiful tucks, tucks which are a real trimming.
to be beautiful
How often you see a Why The stitches are ?
Tucker lesson
Before attempting cloth.
used on
not necessary to dwell long on the importance of tucking, as every
is
essential
is
Spend a
little
to
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
make
tucks for a dress or apron, try out your Tucker with a square of
time practicing, making various kinds of tucks with different spaces be-
tween them, until you know how to adjust the Tucker exactly as you want it. Use fine thread, from 100 to 150, with a needle to match. Have your tensions adjusted to give a perfect stitch. Always be sure to fasten the adjusting screw firmly so that the Tucker guides will not shift.
How
Do
to
Cross-Tucking
First tuck the cloth lengthwise, then tuck crosswise across the tucks.
tremely ornamental and across the
first
tucks,
may
be made in
which gives a
many
Cross-tucking
For example, you can from plain cross-tucking.
different ways.
totally different effect
(111.
Some Combinations
of
Tucks with
a Variety of Spacings
41)
is
ex-
tuck, bias
Projects for Lesson No. 4
Samples to be Six Inches
(A) Wide Tucks
Length
(B) Tucked Net
(111. 42) Set at Five and One-half and Lawn. Sample made of Fine
(111.
The Tucker Six.
in
43)
Sample Made of Net
(D) Bias Tucking
(C) Cross Tucking
(111.
44)
Sample Made of Fine Lawn till.
Sample Made of Fine Lawn
I.".)
(E)
A
Flat collar
edge of the collar
Collar Patterns
may be made by cutting a may be round instead of
certain dress lay the center back
shown
pattern as
square
if
desired.
in
the illustration.
If
you wish
to
fit
The
outside
a collar to a
seam on a piece of paper and trim the shape of the neck.
Cut
shape as desired.
SLIGHT ROLL AT BACK
FLAT COLLAR
SHOULDER SEAM
SHOULDER SEAM.
ROLL COLLAR
Take a dart chart.
SHOULDER. SEAM.
COLLAR A8CO SLIGHT ROLLCOLLAR ABC*D MORE I20LLING.
By
following lines here
be able to cut
roll collars.
shown you
will
at center
This will slightly
Neck
roll
as
your
shown
collar.
in
(F)
A
Dainty Collar and Cuff Set
Xow
that
you have practiced with your Tucker and
have made your samples of various
size tucks
we
are
going to ask you to make a 24-inch square of crossThis tucking
tucking.
A Do
very fine stitch
is
is
to be
made on
fine organdie.
be used and a perfect tension.
to
not forget, too. that you are to use a fine needle to
correspond with the thread and material you are using. Set your Tucker for a pin tuck and your space at V/z.
You may
use the pattern which your instructor will
furnish you or you
may
have a dress which you would have a style collar in view that After your tucking cuff set cut out lace edge.
edging. the edge
(in. 46)
properly.
Stitch the lace in position with the
You may
a second stitching.
safe
if
trimmed
overcast this
you
it
is
to be
like to freshen
will look well
finished
up and you
on the dress.
and your
trimmed with
collar
a narrow, fine
l set illustrated will recpiire Z />
select
your
own
pattern,
and
yards of
measure around
and allow sufficient lace for turning the corners machine and then turn back the material and make raw edge if you desire, but we feel sure it is quite
close.
Bind around the neck and the edge of the Figure the cost of saving worth while
A
If
The
is
Maybe you
draft your own.
cuffs with fine lawn, using the Binder.
this collar set
and compare
(AH samples
work should be
it
with the price of ready-mades.
?
of
sent to the Institute.)
Suggestion for Applying Cross-Tucking to an Undergarment
Isn't this
Lesson No. 5
The Edge- Stitcher
LESSON
No. 5
THE EDGE-STITCHER The Edge-Stitcher makes It makes it possible
valuable. the
most perfect
stitching.
A
the sewing
machine
crooked
line
of
actually spoil the appearance of a finished garment.
Stitcher
is
more
itself
for the unskilled operator to do stitching If the
will
Edge-
not with your machine your sewing instructor will be
glad to supply you with one.
Directions for Using the Edge-Stitcher
The Edge-Stitching Attachment is fastened to the machine in the same manner as the presser foot. The different slots which are numbered from one to five in the illustration serve as guides for sewing together laces, insertions, sewing in position
(in 4i>
folded or
etc.,
hemmed
edges, bias fold materials, piping, etc.
The Edge-Stitcher is adjustable for by means of the lug A at the side of
the stitching in relation to the edge of the garment, lace, the Attachment.
(111.
How To
adjust,
move
desired adjustment that the
is
lug
A
(see
obtained.
Attachment be adjusted
111.
to
4S1
Adjust the Edge-Stitcher
left of the Attachment to the right or left until the sewing two pieces of lace together it is very necessary stitch exactly on the edge so that the edges will not fold over
47) at the
When to
when laundered. Always use
a line needle
and thread when sewing
laces together, as this greatly
improves the
appearance of the finished work.
The edges of lace or soft material should be held slightly overlapped when operating the Edge-Stitcher to prevent the material from feeding away. When the Attachment is properly adjusted the most inexperienced operator can sew yards of lace or other material together with no
difficulty.
A
Made With
Variety of Trimmings
the Edge-Stitcher
— Rows
of insertion
sewn together.
and 4 are used for
this class of
work.
Fig.
1
Fig. 2
Nos.
1
—Rows of
is
No.
and embroidery sewn together. Slots
—Tucking
placed in slot
slot
1
also used for this class of work.
and 4 are
Fig. 3
lace
Slots Nos.
and insertion sewn together. The lace No. 4 and the folded edge of the material in
1.
The ribbon
-Ribbon and lace sewn together. 1 and the lace in slot No. 4.
Fig.
is
placed in slot No.
—
Fig. 5 A band of embroidery finished on the edge with narrow lace edge. The embroidery is placed in slot No. 1 and the lace in slot No. 4.
a
—Lace
6
Fig.
insertion
The
used as trimming.
lace
is
and the material in under the Attachment. After the lace is sewn in position the material is cut from the underside, the edge turned back and a second row of stitching added as a finish. placed in slot No.
is
— Braid
7
Fig.
braid
1
inserted
sewn
in
slot
to
a
No.
1
garment for trimming. The and the garment under the
Attachment.
Fig. 8
—Bias
folds
sewn
to the
used as a finish and trimming. slot
No.
1
edge of a garment to be
The
bias fold
and the edge of the garment
garment wrong
side
up.
The
in slot
«)
inserted in 5 with the
other edge of the binding
stitched in position with the presser foot.
(ill-
is
No.
is
Fig.
9
— Folded The
for a finish.
the
hem
in slot
bias tape stitched flat at the top of a
tape
No.
is
inserted in slot Xo.
The other edge
5.
is
1
sewn
hem
and the edge of with
in position
the presser foot.
—A box
Fig. 10 3
and the
11
Fig.
— Bias
Insert the piping in slot Xo.
plait piped.
plait in slot
No.
1.
The
fold material used to cover a seam.
and the material under the Attachment. Care must be taken to keep the row of stitching as close to the seam as possible. The free edge of the bias strip is then sewn in position with the sewing foot. folded strip
Fig. 12 finish
is
placed in slot Xo.
is
—Bias
1
fold material used to finish a curve.
practical for underclothes.
Insert the bias
This
fold in
and the garment in slot No. 5. Turn the bias back and add a second row of stitching with the presser slot
No.
strip
1
foot.
—A
French seam stitched with the Edge-Stitcher. stitched with the presser foot and the material turned on the wrong side ready for finishing it is inserted in slot Xo. 5 and adjusted for the proper distance. Fig. 13
After the seam
is
— Bias
Fig. 14
fold material
sewn
as a stay for children's underwaists.
serted in slot No.
Fig.
1-1
—
1
To
in position.
The
be used
folded tape
is
in-
and the srarment under the Attachment.
Bias fold material used as trimming.
easy to turn corners using the Edge-Stitcher. outside curve stop the machine
To
where the corner
quite
It is
turn the is
to
be
turned and fold the proper amount of material over, then insert
it
reached.
in the It
is
Edge-Stitcher and stitch until another corner
is
not necessary to remove the material from the
Attachment to turn the inside curve. Slot No. 1 is used for the bias tape and the garment is placed in under the Attachment. (111.
50)
We
desire
you
to practice
each operation here shown.
Projects for Lesson No. 5 Samples of Edge-Stitching Samples
Made
to be
to be six inches in length
When
sewing together two patterns of lace
always have the one with the better finished edge in the slot at the left, as this is the
show.
If the
feed of the machine
edge that is
will
sharp and
catches the lace insert a piece of paper in nnder the Attachment.
Do
not have the tension too
tightly adjusted for this
kind of work.
This sort of trimming
underwear and
is
very popular for
lingerie dresses.
(111.51)
Sample Made
of Val.
This sample together the laces.
is
Lace
made The
the
lace
is
same
as
inserted in slot
No. 4 and the folded edge of the material No.
1.
The
stitching should
sewing
come
in slot
as close to the
edge as possible when doing work of this kind so that the edge will not curl
up when laundered.
(111.
52)
Sample Made of Lawn and Val. Lace
Piping With the Edge-Stitcher
o
-.
o
I
';'
°.'
°
|°
o
o
o.
This trimming b
o
-
.... .
.
clothes
o
in slot o
o
o
slot O
-
DO
No. o and
No.
used mostly for children's
The piping
is
inserted
the finished edge to be piped in
4.
•
If a
narrower piping
is
desired the piping
inserted in slot 3 and the edge in slot
-
-
o
o
This piping
o
o
1.
is
made
the proper width to
may
be pur-
chased in the department stores.
o
....
slot
take the No. 5 folded piping that
-
o
(111.
53)
Sample Made of Percale or any Washable Material
A
Many the
times
when using
seam shows through
will spoil the
A
fine material
plainly, a
French Seam
where
crooked seam
appearance of the finished
article.
French seam may be perfectly stitched by using
the
Edge-Stitcher.
made with fitted,
the
After the
presser
foot
the surplus material
is
inserted in slot No. 5
first
stitching
is
and the garment
trimmed away and
This folded seam
the second turning made.
width.
is
o
•
o
and
is
house dresses.
is
and adjusted for the desired
The Edge-Stitcher
will
guide this seam
perfectly.
(111.
54)
Sample Made of White Lawn
(All samples of
work
to be sent to the Institute.)
Lesson No.
Making
A
Chemise
And
6
Cross- Tucked Medallions
LESSON
No.
6
MAKING A CHEMISEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; USING THE EDGE-STITCHER AND TUCKER Materials required
:
2yÂą yds. Batiste
6
"
Insertion
5
"
Edging.
This attractive combination val.
lace
assist
and
insertion.
you with the
It
cutting.
is
made
(See
111.
tucks with a space of about
Tucker
is
1
'
Always
try out
it
in
groups of
The
inches between the groups.
_>
to be set for a fine pin tuck.
trim off the edges so that
trimmed with
56.)
20 inches by 10 inches
First tuck a piece of material live
of pink batiste and
requires no pattern, as your instructor will
After your tucking
is
finished,
measures 8 x 16 inches.
your Tucker on a waste piece of material before
starting to tuck for a garment.
Cut your yoke as indicated by
111.
57.
You
are
now ready
to
sew
your laces together for the trimming.
(III.
55)
H
it
ll
1*1
|l| !
J \
1 -i
a
l|l
A rfcr
(111.
How
to
50)
(III.
Mow
Cut Your Chemise
to
57)
Cut the Yoke
Edge-Stitching the Lace and Insertion Together Attach the Edge-Stitcher to the machine and adjust
for
sewing laces together.
Sew
to-
gether your lace and insertion.
your
lace,
lieve
it
After you have adjusted your Attachment and started to join notice the small amount of time required to finish this work. You would hardly be-
possible to do
it
in so short a
time as compared to the tedious operation of basting by hand.
You again to 1
f
are
now ready
to apply the lace to the triangular pieces
111.
the yoke
is
too large the points
may
be over-lapped a sufficient amount to
Up
Stitching
Refer
the
make
it fit
properly.
Seams
seams in your chemise following directions given in your night gown lesson. trimmed close to the stitching it is folded and inserted in your Edge-Stitcher stitching. Follow Fig. 13, page 29, for instructions for French seaming.
Sew up
the
first
After your seam for the final
which form the yoke.
57 and you will find a sketch of the front and back of the yoke ready to be attached.
is
You
You have now had instruction in making French seams with and without the Edge-Stitcher. will find many times that it is necessary to understand both ways of making this seam and
you
will be able to
The bottom of the If
hem
of the chemise
may
be
is
more
hemmed and
with the Edge-Stitciher, following Fig.
you desire
made buttonholes six inches
choose for yourself which
to
have
this
3,
band of the
lace
and insertion
This edge
may
insertion
neck.
is
The
as
shown
is
in the illustration.
Yoke
then applied to the bottom of the yoke and to the top of
raw edge, or
this finish, as
it
it
may
and insertion
is
be left trimmed close.
insures a safe seam.
to be joined at the points of the yoke, thus
lace
your Edge-Stitcher lesson.
be finished by turning back the material and adding a second row
of stitching and then overcast the
must always be used for
3, in
;
lace,
Joining the
A
the lace and insertion stitched to the edge
page
garment an envelope chemise you may add a tab and apply handor you may leave the side seams open for a distance of
or snaps to fasten
and trim the edge with
the chemise.
practical.
to be joined
A
A
short stitch
four-inch strip of lace and
making the garment low enough
in the
with the Edge-Stitcher.
The reason your ready-mades pull out so often is because of the poor stitching. You home-made garments will wear at least twice as long as the readv-made ones.
find that
will
To Make
a
Round Medallion
(111.
Sewing Lace
to
5S)
Paper Circle
Cut a piece of paper the
Measure the width of
size of the desired
medal-
from edge of paper to find out how large the center is to be. Cut a piece of cross-tucking large enough to form the center, allowing lion.
one-half inch to turn
lace
in.
fill. 59.)
Baste
the
cross-tucking
to
the
paper.
With
the
machine sew the outside edge of the lace to the outside edge of the paper, and the inside edge of the lace to the cross-tucking, pulling^, the thread in the lace to fit
make
it
into a perfect circle.
an.
go)
Tear away the paper, turn back the tucking, and stitch
Trim
off surplus
This
second
stronger.
A
down
edge of tucking close
row
Pull out
of first
stitching
to the stitching.
makes
the
medallion
stitching put in the edge of lace.
medallion of any shape can
lie
made
manner.
(111.
free edge of
close to the edge of the lace.
Gil
Cross-Tucked Medallions Applied to an Undergarment
in
the
same
Lesson No.
The Ruffler
7
And Shirr er
LESSON
No.
7
THE RUFFLER AND SHIRRER LESSON
-c - D
(111.
Substitute the Ruffler for the presser foot, by placing the Ruffler foot
presser bar.
The forked arm (B)
of the Ruffler should
Tighten the Attachment screw firmly by turning to see if the needle passes 1.
2.
4 and 5 show
3,
it
first
in position
on the
be set astride the needle clamp.
to the right, then turn the
through the center of the hole
how
(A)
62)
hand-wheel slowly
The
in the foot of the Ruffler.
lines
to place the different pieces of cloth in the Ruffler.
you do not have the type of Ruffler here shown these directions for attaching and adThe forked arm (B) on all Rufflers is practically the same and the adjusting
If
justing will apply.
screw
is
usually at location (C).
Study your Sewing Machine Instruction Book
To Adjust Insert the cloth
in
bar and proceed to sew. fullness
notice stitch fine
is
how
this lesson
the Ruffler between the blades, following line two.
Now
turn the adjusting screw
the fullness decreases.
You
will
Now
(C)
right:
Lower you
the presser
will
find
the
turn the screw up, or to the
left,
and
to
the
Adjust your Ruffler for an ordinary gather and lengthen the
now
and perfect as when the fullness
To
connection with
the Fullness of the Gather
increased as you turn this screw down.
on your machine.
in
note that the gathers are scant, but the plaits arc not as is
decreased with the adjusting screw.
increase the fullness turn the adjusting screw to the right.
To
decrease turn to the
left.
Gathering to Fit a Given Space Because the Ruffler can be adjusted for with the machine stitch regulator,
it
is
fullness, both with the Ruffler adjusting
amount of fullness to a given space. The amount of gathers taken up. For example
quality of material also has
the full
as a softer quality with the Ruffler set at the
same
certain
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a
The
A In-
much
to
do with
starchy piece of material will not gather as fullness.
work by loosening the upper tension until the gathers hand sewing, or by gathering a smaller piece of cloth accordingly into certain space by trail. The loose upper tension is a very practical way to adjust for fullness. long thread must be left in taking the material from the Ruffler in order that the gathers may
slide a
screw and
impossible to have a device on the Ruffler for adjusting a
Ruffler can be adjusted for this
on the thread as
scattered as
much
in
as
The
is
necessary.
Effect of
Changing Fullness of Gather and Length of Stitch
This
is
a Full
Gather with a Short Stitch
By Lengthening
the Stitch the Gathers
Made
This
llj
is
Scant
Plaiting with a
Long
Stitch
Shortening the Stitch the Fullness -
I
i,l I
111.
08)
Making
If
your machine
vou can apply
this
is
With
Plaiting
supplied with a Five-Stitch Ruffler you will find
trimming
your garments.
to
machine ask your sewing- machine dealer for your type of machine you will be able Ruffler such as are obtained in If
the Five-Stitch Ruffler
111.
to to
If
it
for directions as to
how
this
The adjusting screw must
in
which
you cannot purchase same make many pretty trimmings with your type of If
63.
Ruffler
is
adjusted.
to refer to
The
your machine instruction book
effect of this
instead of at each stitch as in ordinary ruffling.
adjustments are made exactly as
many ways
not and you desire to have one for your
supply you with one.
you have the Five-Stitch Ruffler we ask vou
fifth stitch,
is
The
is
cloth
to is
make one
plait
every
inserted and held, and
in plain ruffling.
be turned
down
or to the right as far as
it
will
go for
plaiting.
The
Shirring Lesson
l
For shirring
in
rows or piping
a
wide
ruffle the
111.
65
Shirring Plate must be used
in
connection
with the Ruffler.
As you
note from your practice with the Ruffler the cloth to be gathered
will
between the blades.
If
you
will try to put a
is
inserted
wide piece of cloth between the blades, you
will
which your underblade is attached is in the way. As the Shirring Plate takes the place of the underblade on the Ruffler it is necessary to remove the
find that the separator or part to
separator before using the Shirring Plate.
The separator of the Ruffler is removed either by loosening the screw on the side of the Attachment or by turning it over back as shown in the above illustration. Your instruction book must be consulted for this operation. Your instruction book will also tell you how to attach the Shirrer to the machine.
After the separator of the Ruffler is
is
removed and the Shirring Plate is attached the Ruffler You will find that you are now able to place
placed on the machine and operated as before.
a large piece of material between the blades.
To Crease the material
on the creases. will tell
in
Rows
rows the proper distance apart, then press witli a hot iron and stitch also be used to guide your rows of shirring. Your instructor
The Quilter may
you how.
Shirr in Straight
Projects for Ruffler Lesson These samples may be made of student desires.
your
final
We
would advise
strips of least
at
muslin cut cross-wise and
hemmed
or not as the
two hours' practice with the Ruffler before
making
samples.
A The
material
Make one and one with
is
Plain Ruffle
inserted in the Ruffler following line
sewing
plain ruffle with tension set for regular
a loose
2.
upper tension, showing Ihow the gathers
can be made to slide on the thread for adjusting to
fit
certain space.
(111. 6(i>
Ruffling and
Sewing at
One
to a
Band
or
Garment
Stitching
between the blades, following line 2 and which represents the garment for the garment fol-
Insert the ruffle
the strip
lowing line
1.
You will learn from this practice that it would be very make an undergarment and sew the ruffles in position, gathering at the same time. Ruffles may also be gathered and easy to
garment under the AttachFor this sort of trimming, however, it would be necessary to finish tilie heading of the ruffle before inserting it in the Ruffler. .Many times a stitched to a dress by placing the
ment and
picot
is
the
ruffle
between the blades.
used as a finish for both edges of the
ruffle.
This
must be made on a special hemstitching machine and the charge for this work is about ten cents a yard. You will probably find a hemstitching shop in your town. finish
i
111.
G7)
a
Ruffling,
Sewing
to
a Facing at
The garment
It
:
I
them
placed in the Ruffler, following line
will
1,
the
3.
be necessary for you to guide these bands, keeping
well in the Attachment.
You
will not find this difficult
to do.
You
;
will readily see
what a great amount of time can be
saved through using your Ruffler for such operations as
(111.
Sewing
One Operation
following line 2 and the facing following line
ruffle
Hm
is
Garment and Adding
a Ruffle to a Garment and a Facing at One Stitching
this.
68)
Sewing
Piping a Ruffle If the ruffle
inches
it
will
for this operation
for this operation. will
2,
Your The
explain why.
following line
is
to be
more than
V-/>
be necessary for you to use your Shirring Plate lesson on the use of the Shirrer
ruffle
is
to be placed in the Ruffler.
and must be pulled through so that the finished
edge comes to the right of the blade.
The
last
guide on the
Ruffler underblade can be used to keep this heading even.
The piping which has
first
is
placed
been folded,
following is
line
4
and the band,
inserted following- line
5.
tin.
tin)
Piping a Ruffle and Sewing it to Finished Band at One Operation
If
you have the Five-Stitch Ruffler, the following samples are to be made. If not. make one fullest ruffle and the longest stitch, both with and without a band.
sample using the
Plaiting Adjust the Ruffler for
following the directions
plaiting,
Try out the Ruffler. using various lengths of stitch in order that you may know just the Try the Ruffler with a effect the stitch has on the plaiting.
given
your instruction book.
in
scant plait by turning the adjusting screw to the
left.
Make your sample on organdie and crease down each makes it. You will find it much easier to
plait as the Ruffler
press your plaiting
if
you do
it
in this
way.
(111. Til)
Sample
Made
of Organdie. Stitch Plaiting
to be
Five-
(111.
Plaiting
for
711
and Sewing to a Band or Garment at One Stitching
(111.72) I
The sample of plaiting and sewing to making a ruffle and stitching to a band
a at
11 c
Sue.
i
Plaitii!
F.,i
i
n
band at one operation is made exactl) as directed one sewing, except that the live-stitch device is
used.
You
will find
the Ruffler.
You
it
quite easy to
will also find
it
make
pretty collars and vests
quite easy to
(All samples of
work
make trimmings
now for
after learning
summer
to be sent to the Institute.)
dresses.
how
to
use,
Lesson No. 8
The Hemming Lesson- -Hemming MAKING A TAILORED PLACKET
A
Towel
LESSON
No.
8
THE HEMMER LESSONâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; HEMMING A TOWEL For the inexperienced operator, the Hemmers require more practice than any of the other first hems you make are not perfect. The material must be guided at all times so that too much or too little goods will not be fed into Attachments, so do not become discouraged when the the Attachment, causing the
The mer
hem
Hemmer can be applied Hemmer in place
rule for operating the
or the
Hemmer
point where the
Attach the
Set.
hem
is
to be uneven.
to start, fold
the needle.
Lower
too
much
The Adjustable Hemmer
is
being fed
in,
too
If
cloth
little
rule that it
is
it
under
hold the
left,
the
Hemmer Set. By Hemmer is adjusted
Hemmer
73)
with Cloth Inserted
must be followed when using the Hemmers
is
to hold the cloth in a straight
inserted in the Attachment.
When hemming Never
in,
is
left.
ill.
The
fed
is
bringing
hem
narrow hem.
Cut of
line after
left,
place of the
in
simply loosening the screw, and sliding the guide to the right or for a wide or
the
beginning of the
hold the cloth to the
used with some machines
is
Hemmer from
in the
until the
the presser bar and proceed to sew.
if
Hem-
Beginning at the
foot.
up one-eighth of an inch of the edge for a distance of about
two inches, creasing the fold. Insert the folded edge up and around the spoon, then draw it toward you cloth to the right;
Foot Hemmer, Adjustable
to the
of the presser
pull
over a seam, always press the seam as
your material, as
will cause
this
it
flat
to stretch
as possible before starting to sew.
and your hem
will not
come out
even with the garment.
When hemming
soft material that
is
liable to stretch
Paper should also be used Table linen
may
to
hem
a soft bias edge, as
be run through the
be ready for the hand sewing and
much
Hemmer
is
it
over the feed to prevent the goods from puckering and the
better to insert a piece of paper
hem from it
will
stretching.
keep the cloth from stretching.
without using thread.
time saved.
Your
linen
will then
Hemming and Sewing on
Lace with the Foot
Hemmer
(111.
Hemming and Sewing on Lace
You
will find that
illustration.
you have a small
Hemmer
with the Foot
74)
Hemmer
very similar to the one shown in the above hem with this Attachment lace may be
After you have learned to make a plain
inserted in the slot at the right.
You must
guide your
hem
with one hand and the lace with
the other.
You must spend some time at practice with your Hemmer. your time, as they will save you many hours of labor.
You
will
be well repaid for
Projects for Lesson No. 8
Hemming Toweling A
small piece of toweling
is
to be
hemmed
with the size
one or size two Hemmer.
The
material must not be pulled, as the lines will not
exactly match
if
this
When hemming
is
towels leave the thread ends sufficiently
may be tied, and after one thread is may be threaded into a hand-sewing needle and the hem caught together with a whip stitch.
long in order that they cut the other the edge of
(111.
Hemmed
Toweling
75)
done.
Turning the
Hem of Table Linen, While
Making it
Hemmer may
the
machine
The
size
Ready
for the
Hand Work
desirable to have table linen
is
the
is
It
make
be used to
hemmed by
hand,
For
work
the turning.
this
not threaded.
one
Hemmer
the linen before starting to
used and a thread
is
hem.
You
is
pulled in
will find that
much
time has been saved through following this suggestion.
(111.
Table Linen Turned with the
76)
Hemmer
Hemming
a Kitchen
Towel
Purchase one yard of toweling and hem the ends by Hemmer. Whip the hems at the edge as suggested
using the in the
size
above
text.
We
would suggest that you use
either the
one or size two Hemmer.
(111.
77)
Quilting
Fold a crease in the cloth to be quilted as a guide for the first line of stitching, thereafter guiding each succeeding line by holding the cloth so that the last line of stitching made is run directly
under the guide, as shown
in the illustration.
(All samples of
work
to be sent to the Institute.)
Sleeve Placket for Shirt This tailored placket
ij
used on men's shirts and tailored shirt waists.
Before stitching up sleeve, placket must be faced.
Cut opening four inches deep about one inch from fold on under side of sleeve, on to draft, point of pattern on stripe, or matching line of gash.
stripe.
Cut facings according
|
IN
-IN -if\j
in
(III.
7
i-
IN (111.
Under slash.
A)
right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve on under side from edge turn facing back on seam and then on line of slash turn in
Facingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; hay
l inch Stitch /%
B
;
;
of
%
inch on other side and stitch on edge.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
For Upper Facing Lay right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve; stitch 's-inch from edge. Open seam flat. Fold facing to right side, so point of placket comes in line with gash. Turn in J^-inch around point and on long side, stitch twice across just below end of gash.
Lesson No. 9
The Braiding Lessonâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Making
Smocking
A
Linen Scarf
LESSON
No. 9
THE BRAIDING LESSONâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAKING A LINEN SCARF
(111.
79)
Directions for Using the Underbraider Insert the braid in the Underbraider by threading
machine as shown
when using
front,
the
in the instruction
the Underbraider.
(See
To Copy Braiding designs
may
it
Always use
book.
111.
through the tube, then attach the braider foot,
which
is
cut
it
to the
away
in
81.)
Braiding Designs
be purchased at any pattern
and should be continuous as if you wish to save copies of any pattern pin the design to the sheets and stitch with the sewing machine without usin°thread in the needle. The braider foot instead of the sewing foot should be used for this nearly as possible.
Use
counter
several sheets of ordinary wrapping paper
;
work, as pattern torn
it
allows the operator to follow the design better, just as in braiding.
then pinned or basted to the material and after the design
is
The perforated
worked the paper
is
off.
To
Start Braiding
Insert the braid in the Underbraider
Lower comes it
is
the presser foot
and
in the center of the braid.
The
with the screw driver.
consists of short curves
;
it
is
and attach
stitch for a short If
stitch
it
is
to
it
to the -machine.
distance to
make
sure the line of stitching
one side adjust the Braider over
slightly by
pushing
for braiding should be of ordinary length unless the design
then better to have the stitch a
trifle
shorter.
The braiding design
should be stamped on the wrong side of the material.
To Turn With
the needle piercing the braid, raise the presser bar and turn your cloth in the proper
direction, lower the bar to
a Square Corner
and proceed
to sew.
By
following these directions you will be enabled
turn a square corner perfectly and at the same time keep the goods from puckering.
|
Finishing the Ends of Braid
When
the braiding
punch
finished
is
a hole in the material with the point of
wrong
or the stiletto, push the braid through to the
when doing
this the hole
made by
side
and fasten by hand.
the scissors
If care
taken
is
the stiletto can hardly be detected.
Kinds of Braid to Use Several different kinds of braid is
soutache, which comes
pillows, scarfs, etc.,
is
may
be used with the Underbraider, but the most popular
Another braid that is used for fancy work such as This braid also comes in silk or cotton and in a variety
in silk or cotton.
the pigtail braid.
The
of shades and colors.
and
s;old
cord braid can also be used with the Underbraider.
silver
Projects for Lesson No. 9
The
braid and material can be of any color.
must come
in the center of the
The
stitching
braid and the tension must be
perfect. If to
your design consists of sharp curves
run the machine slowly
in
it
will be
necessary
order to follow the pattern.
Braiding Net
When
braiding net
perforated on paper, as this material It is
and keep
it
it
necessary to have the design
is
would be impossible from stretching.
it
when braiding
fectly flat
stamp on
often necessary to insert another piece of paper under
the braider foot next to the feed of the machine.
true
to
chiffon.
This
will
This
is
also
keep the material per-
and the appearance of the finished work
will
pay for
the extra care taken.
(til.
si
l
Braiding With Pigtail Braid This sample to be made of pigtail braid. this style of braid
it
is
When
using
better in chose a pattern with the lines
not too close together, as
the
braid
flattens
out after
it
is
stitched.
A
pillow or hand hag
this braid.
instructor.
I
III.
s-
For
this
is
very effective
when trimmed with
sample use the design furnished by your
Braided Loops
Sew
a strip of fine lawn through the Binder,
attach the Braider to the machine and sew a of braid through the center of the strip. the loops as described in Lesson
(111.
row
Finish
2.
83)
Braiding a Scarf or Pillow
(in.
Your
instructor will furnish
you with a braiding pattern for a scarf and
suggest that you use both, thus making a very practical linen or crash in tan or white as desired
The
This
and soutache braid
in
living-room
pillow.
or
den.
We
would
Purchase
a contrasting color.
and pillow are very pretty made of tan linen and braided with golden-brown The wide hem may be hemstitched. (See directions below for hemstitching.)
scarf
silk braid.
The
for
set
sn
and one-half yards of two yards and two pieces of
set will require three
scarf alone requires
linen or crash
and three pieces of braid.
braid.
To Make Hemstitching Hemstitching
is
a line of open
work made by drawing out
cross threads in successive small clusters.
Draw
as
manv
parallel threads
and fastening the
threads from the material as desired
:
at the top of the
Baste the
Begin
We
hem.
hem
close to the
at the right
hand
three or four cross threads.
Hold the thread in Take the hemming
suggest that you
the
form
stitch
[111.
drawn
make
a three-inch
(See
threads.
111.
hem
in
your scarf.
86.)
hemming. Pointing the needle towards you, take up Bring the thread to the right and across the front of this group.
side as for
and catch
of a loop,
through
tihe
hem
only.
in It
the hem, then
draw
the needle through.
should not shown on the front of the scarf.
85
(111.
86)
SMOCKING
(111.
87)
1. Outline stitch used in embroidery; progress is away from the body; the needle is pointed toward the body in taking each stitch. The long stitch is forward on the surface, while the short back stitch is through the material. The thread is thrown alternately to the right or lower side of the needle, then to the left or upper side. The short back stitch is taken on each dot.
2.
Simple outline
stitch, letting
thread
fall
naturally to right or lower side of needle.
3. Take up first two dots as for outline stitch, throwing thread to left of needle. Then take up second dot in second row, thread to left of needle. Now take up third dot in second row and throw thread to right of needle. Next, take third dot in first row, letting thread fall to right then, the fourth dot in first row, throwing thread to left, then fourth dot in second row, thread to left; fifth dot in second row, thread to right and so on until all dots in first two rows are taken.
Begin on third row and take up first two dots, letting thread fall to right, then take stitch below second dot in second row, thread falling to right of needle. Take up third dot in second row, throwing thread to left of needle. This gives the appearance of a double stitch. Next take up third dot in third row, keeping thread to left of needle. Proceed as before. just
Note:
Dots are Y\ or J^-inch apart. (All samples of
Stamping patterns can be bought
work
to be sent to the Institute.)
at
the stores.
LESSON
No. 10
Alteration of Shirt Waist Patterns
MAKING A SHIRT WAIST
LESSON
No. 10
ALTERATION OF SHIRT WAIST PATTERNSâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAKING A SHIRT WAIST The
may
select later
on with your sewing.
Commercial patterns are made
to
fit
model figures and very often need
ready made dresses usually need alteration to
For and then
any dress or coat
directions for the alteration of shirt waist patterns will also apply to
pattern that you
we
this reason
desire to teach
you
alteration,
as
just
properly.
fit
to alter paper patterns rather than to
make
a dress
alter the dress.
To Lengthen
the Waist Line
Very often is
a
garment
cut too short waisted.
is
Hold
spoiled because
it
up
to
the pattern
your figure from the shoulder and
if
is
it
too
short in the waist, cut the pattern as indicated
by
111.
89.
Separate the pattern by pasting a strip of
paper to hold
it
in shape.
The back should
also be altered the
amount and should be cut
(111.
111.
89)
To Add
as indicated
by
same
111.
90.
90)
Fullness to Bust or Increase the
Shoulder Seam
If
you
find
it
necessary to add fullness to
the bust or increase the shoulder line, cut
pattern as indicated by
91 and
111.
your
insert a strip
of paper in the pattern.
The back must amount as shown by
also 111.
be
altered
the
same
92.
Oil.
on
(111.
92)
To Lengthen
the Sleeve
If the sleeve is too short
the pattern as
shown by
You must
111.
If
from the elbow down the
at these
two points
the sleeve
shown by
111.
at the cuff
it
94.
order to
in
you take the length from the sleeve
sleeve will
draw and
all
pull up.
93)
To Add
If
to the cuff cut
93.
always alter a sleeve
keep the proper shape.
(III.
from the under arm
Fullness to the Sleeve
too tight cut the pattern through the center as
is
If
you then
find
it
necessary to tighten the sleeve
can be done by taking
it
in at the
under arm seam
from the elbow down.
The after
it
sleeve should not be altered
has been attached to the
arm
from the elbow down
until
hole.
(III. 9-fl
To Shorten
the Waist Line
For a short waisted tern as
shown
in
111.
figure over lap the pat-
95 and pin or paste the fold
in position.
The back must 111.
also be altered as
Do
not
folding too large a tuck.
make It
is
they correspond. (in.
no
the mistake of
better to
the figure and then the pattern to
95)
in
96.
CAUTION.
(III.
shown
make
measure sure that
To Make
Smaller in the Bust or Shoulder Line
Cut the pattern and overlap as shown 111.
97.
Measure the pattern and too full overlap at the point
A cause is
garment it
(111.
97)
Never
alter
at
the
in
111.
also
98.
properly.
fit
A
pattern which
and hang
in a
very ugly manner.
98)
To Shorten
Overlap the pattern
shown
is
very often unsatisfactory be-
is
does not
the back
if
too full in front or back will cause the garment
to bulge
(111.
in
the Sleeve
two points indicated by
from the bottom or the top of the sleeve only
as
111.
99.
it
will
spoil the shape.
Never
tom
try to alter the sleeve for length by cutting off the bot-
as this too will spoil the
appearance of the finished sleeve.
an.
To Make
Sleeve Narrow in Width
Overlap the pattern as shown
seam should be taken fit
the
arm
(III.
100)
in the
in
111.
100.
same amount
to
The under arm
make
waist
sleeve properly
hole.
Never take the seam.
99)
Always
fullness
from
a
alter as here directed.
sleeve by
sewing
in
a
deep
MAKING A SHIRTWAIST
This attractive blouse, which
made
is
of
white
fine
organdie, can be fashioned from lawn, batiste or thin if
you prefer.
pleased
you
if
However, we select
believe
organdie, as
you
will
material
this
silk
be more easily
is
laundered and quite easy to sew on.
made
If
/
2l
of 40-inch organdie
yards of material
2
@
will require:
it
.75c
$1.88
One-half dozen buttons
10
Thread
05
(size 100)
Total Cost
(111.
The
$1.65
101)
lesson on the alteration of patterns will allow
pattern you purchase for use with this lesson.
you
to
properly
the plain shirt waist
fit
All trimmings arc added before the blouse
and
is cut.
your material two fronts from the one width, tuck both sides of the material. If the material is not wide enough to allow for the cutting of two fronts measure enough for two fronts and make your tucks in one continuous length. of material required for the length of the front,
Measure the amount
is
wide enough
if
for the cutting of the
to allow
To Trim the Blouse Tuck your material in two groups of five pin tucks very close together. These clusters should be started about two inches from the edge of your material and should be two inches apart. Make two clusters of tucks. The space between the tucks will allow for your plaited trimming to be attached.
To Cut
the Strips for Plaiting on the cross wise of the material from selvedge to selvedge and may be measured and cut with your cutting gauge set at "F." Measure around your collar, cuffs and down the front and allow three times this length for plaiting strips. Cut sufficient strips and sew them together in one continuous strip and then hem one edge with the narrow foot hemmer. Press well before plaiting.
The
strips for plaiting should be cut
Plaiting the Strips
Try out your your
may
ruffler
with a small piece of the material you are using for your blouse.
stitch to bring the plaits quite close together. set
that the
your
ruffler for a fine scant
machine
will
make.
gather or you
Plait or gather
your
If
may
you do not have the
we can
start
it
in
strips
our next lesson.
required for the width of material you are using.
when
selecting your pattern.
Set
vou
use the fullest plait and the longest stitch
and bring
to
next
material for washable dress, and dress pattern 8475 Pictorial Review Style of similar style; so
five stitch ruffler
The Note
P>.
class.
or another pattern
pattern will state the illustrations
given
Also bring
number
in
lesson
of yards
No,
11
LESSON Making
No. 11
the Blouse- -Continued
A WASHABLE DRESS
LESSON
No. 11
MAKING THE BLOUSE CONTINUED Before
this lesson
also have fitted
been attached
you
will
You
will
to cut the blouse after the plaiting
has
have made the tucks and the plaitings for your blouse.
your paper pattern so that you are ready
to the front.
To Apply
the Plaiting to the Front of the Blouse
Find the center of the plain space between the groups of tucks and place the unfinished edge of the plaiting on this Stitch
Fold back front of waist so that wrong side of goods faces up.
line.
This makes a receiving tuck that
front edge of fold using the presser foot for a guide.
holds the
ruffle.
fully explained
may
This tuck
be stitched
flat
on the right
side.
This operation will be care-
by your instructor.
Cut the blouse after the tucks are made and the
frills
on the ruffled and tucked length of goods, so that the shoulder and collar
Cut back
arm. tucks
may
front
box
line,
plain,
applied.
Lay
having tucks and or
the front of the pattern
group of tucks begin
for
at the point of
turned toward the
ruffles
extra trimming several groups of
Cut a piece of goods 2 /i inches wide for
be added. plait,
first
l
turn edge on both sides and baste plaiting.
At-
tach to right front, face with plain material and stitch on right side,
one row of stitching fastening
This method of making
together.
all
trimmings and cutting a garment from a plain commercial pattern is
one which we believe you will find of untold value to you.
102)
(111.
This method
will also enable
you
to
make
quite original trim-
mings both for your underclothes and for your shirtwaists and dresses.
The shoulder seams and under arm seams should be basted with on the
sleeves should be
much
easier
when sewing when
up or
right
out they should be pinned while the garment
is
the cuffs attached before being set in the arnrs-eye, as
it
let
to
made and
handle a sleeve than a whole blouse.
in sleeves that
they hang properly.
cutting your blouse, as they will assist
As you cuffs also.
tween
to be taken
seam on the
figure.
The is
seams need
If the
side.
the
will note
Cut two
stitch,
from
collars
111.
you
in placing
make
101, the tiny frills
and four
cuffs,
one for
Particular attention should be paid
Follow the notches on your pattern carefully sleeve.
attractive trimmings for the collar
lining.
then turn to the right side and press.
your
Raw
Place edges even with the elges are
all
inside
and
ruffle in
collar
and be-
and cuffs
are then joined to their proper places.
The fastening.
cuffs are fastened with tiny pearl buttons.
The bottom
of the blouse
be left sufficiently long to be tied.
These buttons are also used for the front
may be hemmed and
a tape or elastic
band run
in
or
it
may
Hand Made Buttonholes While possible
it
we
has been our desire
believe
you
all
through
You
tonholes to finish a blouse.
this
sewing course
to teach as little
hand work
as
nothing that can take the place of hand made butwill find that your garments go together so quickly when using
will agree that there
is
our mechanical sewing methods that you will have time to apply a hand made touch to finish your garments.
You should, therefore, measure very and only cut them as you make them. If you
Buttonholes should always be of even distance apart. carefully just
where each button hole
to be cut
is
them they
cut several of the holes before sewing
Many
will stretch out of shape.
button holes
are very unsightly because of this trouble.
To prevent the material from slipping and making an uneven cut we would suggest that you baste around the buttonhole before cutting. Buttonholes are stranded to hold them in shape while working. Bring the needle up at one end of the buttonhole, and allowing the thread to lie along the cut on the right side of the material, sew down at the opposite end. Do the same on the opposite end of the cut and sew down opposite the first stitch and fasten the thread. If the material is inclined to fray it is better to overcast the buttonhole before working *s it.
To Make
the Buttonhole Stitch
Place the buttonhole over the forefinger of the
thumb and it
is
finger.
Begin
work
to
left
hand, holding
it
in
position with the
Insert the needle and while
the buttonhole close to the end.
pointing towards you, bring the thread from the needle eye around to the
Draw
needle.
left under the forms a purl on the edge. Conto the end of the buttonhole taking care to sew in the same amount of
the thread through
tinue these stitches
make
material each time you
and you
will see that
it
a stitch.
To
Finish the
End
of the Buttonhole
When you
have reached the end of the cut in your buttonhole, pass the thread up and down through the goods until two or three threads cross the end of the slit close to the buttonhole stitches. This will form a bar. Take several buttonhole stitches over this bar and continue to
make
the other side of the buttonhole.
Care should be taken not
to
cut the buttonhole too large for the button to be used.
A We
are
Read
now
ready
directions
to
Washable Dress
begin our washable dress.
which come with your pattern very carefully,
test
tern to material and cut dress under the direction of your instructor.
tucked, you will
make your tucks
first,
and If
alter same, pin pat-
your dress
is
to be
unless pattern allows for them, then place material on pat-
tern and cut.
After the dress
is
cut
it
should be basted and
fitted
As
the majority of people are wearing their dresses 6 inches
ing a 6 inch ruler which
from the
skirt,
ruffles, etc.
floor
we
are furnish-
think will be very useful to you in hanging your skirt and in number-
ways. If you prefer your dress shorter you any of the department stores at a nominal cost.
less other
in
we
Stitching
ready for finishing.
waist and sleeves and finishing placket should be done at home, also plaitings.
will
probably be able to buy a skirt hanger
Lesson 12 should be well studied and all simple projects worked out before class. Chose from any of the following designs the style of trimming you are going to use. You will note that many ways of trimming the same pattern can be worked out.
Organdie and Cross Tucks
Simplicity voile.
is
making
In
the keynote of this lovely the
peplum
for this dress,
little
we
frock of batiste or
first
make our
piece
of cross-tucking the width Ave desire, stitch the lace on each side,
then cut the material for the
hem
hem
twice the width of the finished
plus J^ inch for a turn on each edge.
Stitch lace on to double
From
hem.
finished peplum, subtract the width of
and cut the upper section
this
the desired length of the
hem and
the cross-tucking
amount, plus two inches allowed for
finishing.
Join lace to upper section of peplum, and follow general directions for
making waist and
sleeves.
Serge and Military Braid
There
nothing smarter than a tailor-made frock of tricolette
is
or serge, and this model
is
especially suitable for these materials.
Military braid makes a very effective trimming for this dress.
The
braid can be stitched in position with the edge-stitcher without
basting.
Measure and mark with
to be sewed, attach edge-stitcher,
tailor's
chalk where the braid
and proceed with your work.
Ease braid when stitching so material
would be well
Follow seams.
"to
all
try
it
will
on a small piece of material
not pucker.
must be
plain,
It
first.
general directions for washable dress except
All seams in wool
is
for
and finished with binding.
Flowered Voile and Tiny Ruffles
charming dress can be made of flowered
This
trimmed with effective
can be
and launder
hem on
there
are also a time-saver, as they
trimmings
to trim this dress
at the
would be
is
still
another way, and that
is
pipings can be cut with the bias gauge.
Chambray
gingham or
little
Your tucker
linen.
Gingham and Tucks
or
made
dress can be
will
come
of chambray,
very handy with this
in
model. In
making peplum,
3 inches
more on
and your marker
if
your pattern does not
the length for 8 tucks.
and the space between the tucks In
making
the vest of tucks
a strip of material
and cut
call for tucks,
)/\
1^
trifle
over
j4,
inch
inch wide.
and
lace,
After the strip
first.
allow
Set your tuck guide at
This makes the tuck a
at 3.
it
is
would be well to tuck tucked, lay on pattern,
off the desired lengths, join the lace to the strip
with the
edge-stitcher.
For the
collar
cut
length) 5 inches wide. it
measures 4 inches.
off
After
if
one wishes
/ l
2
it
or 4 yards of is all
material
it.
(on the
tucked, trim each side so that
This gives a more even edge.
the collar and cuffs can be
material
3
bound or piped with
Crushed or plain
have
The edge
of
plaid or striped
belt of material.
ruffles
and
in dress.
to pipe the reversed
pepluni, collar, vest and cuffs with satin.
prefer to have vest of tucked white organdie.
This practical and stylish
to
same time.
correspond with predominating color
belt of taffeta to
And
to dress or
and
are very pretty and
Ruffles
They
easily.
made and sewed
Another way
The
of the same.
ruffles
voile,
Belt of satin.
Some
people
may
White Organdie and This dainty
Frills
made
frock can be
little
trimmed with narrow
of plain white organdie,
plaitings of colored organdie, or of colored or-
gandie trimmed with white plaitings, or again organdie in any shade which you be
.--ÂŁ<s
made
same
of the
The width
at the
The young
vidual.
from 45
desire,
\
bottom of the
girl usually likes
or over-skirt
peplum has
according to the indi-
skirt varies
extremes, so her skirt
is
a reversed
a
little
hem and narrow
As
the cuffs
and two pieces for the
assume that your
will
You
lace
and
collar are double
collar.
wrong
same
Baste
plait-
mcn seam
turn
See that collar and lining
perfectly smooth, and then baste around neck-line.
Baste collar to
with a narrow bias facing of same material.
right side of facing to
if
collar, laying right sides together,
and baste around outside edge.
finish
you wish
val.
plaitings are all finished.
around outside edge of upper
and
we
notice
stitch in place.
then baste under part of collar to plaiting, stitch *4
waist,
girl
will
hem, the directions for which are given
to be a little daintier.
cut four pieces for cuffs
lie
anywhere
and for the young
for others 2 yards.
Plaitings can be edged with very
to right side
is
For the average person we
fuller
Set the plaiting at top of
in this lesson.
ings
of
/> yards, a satisfactory width.
would suggest V/2 yards, and
We
made
can be
l
The peplum
your frock
it
and the trimmings can
material.
48 inches around the bottom.
to
have found
that the
may
The
laid to right side of collar, stitched, then turned
is
and stitched again.
side of waist
The
cuffs are
made
the
as the collar.
Vest Cut vest and turn one inch
%
to
wrong
side.
Baste in plaiting to fold on wrong side, turn back
inch of the inch you have turned over and turn again so that
Now
stitch
vest
plaiting in place
the dress
is
on right
and
side,
and
also catch in
the facing
if
facing.
is
all
raw edges are covered
up.
carried up far enough one stitching will sew
After your sleeves, collar and vest are put
in place
ready to be put together.
Adjust gathers of
skirt
and peplum
to belt
and baste; gather waist
at
bottom, and pin to
when properly adjusted sew, turn raw edge of waist in and sew to skirt can be made of ribbon in a contrasting shade, or can be made of the same belt is to be made of the same material, cut double, lay right sides together,
top of belt and then again.
The
material. stitch
belt
If the
and turn inside
out.
the outside, as that takes
See that
away from
belt
is
smooth, then press but do not
the daintiness of the dress.
Tack
one wishes to have a sash, belt could be cut very much longer and care for a sash, the belt can be fastened under the
arm with
snaps.
belt
stitch
belt
on very
tied in back.
If
again on
lightly.
If
you do not
LESSON
A
No. 12
Washable Dress, Continued
.
LESSON
No. 12
WASHABLE DRESS â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued Pictorial
Type
Review Pattern 8476
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Afternoon
or similar style pattern.
dress.
Materials organdie, dimity, gingham, chambray, linen.
Voile,
Trimmings Lace, tucks, self-trimmings, such as ruffles or plaitings, reversed
hem
finished with cord or
piping and buttons.
Findings Net or Seco silk 36 inches wide.
for lining
if
desired; ]A yard of material 72 inches wide, or
1
yard of ma-
terial
Belting, waist
measure plus 3
inches.
Snaps, hooks and eyes.
Thread. Pattern. 1
Test and alter pattern.
2.
Follow general directions.
Do
not forget to allow for
all
tucks and plaits before cutting.
Preparing Belting 3.
Always shrink your belting before making up the dress, as you will find after it is laundered it will be from )A inch to 1 inch too small around the waist, and will cause you a great deal of trouble and inconvenience to fix
Allow waist measure plus two
Turn one inch hems to wrong side and
Sew
it.
inches. stitch.
the eyes to the left side so the loops extend out beyond the end of the belt about '4 inch.
Set the hooks back on the right end about
Y\
inch, so
when
the belt
is
hooked, the ends of
the belt will just meet.
Mark
center front or center back.
Basting 4.
Piaste
seams
in
waist, sleeves, skirt
and peplum, allowing for placket on the
left side
of the
skirt.
Gather if
skirt
and peplum
at the top, waist at the
bottom, and sleeves
at the
necessary.
Turn reversed hem on Turn hem
in
the
peplum and
pin.
top of vest, and bind the sides.
Close center seam of collar.
Lay
the right sides together and stitch
Turn and
baste
to
around the outside of the
collar.
waist with center back and notches matchinsr.
top and bottom
Fitting Skirt 5.
Put the
belt
on the
figure.
Pin the center front and back of the skirt to corresponding points in the
Draw up
the gathers and fasten.
Adjust the fullness
and so skirt hangs evenly and center back fall in vertical
at the waist line, so the gathers fall straight,
bottom.
the
at
belt.
See
Pin.
the
that
center
front
directions.
Attach the peplum
in the
same way.
Waist 6.
Pin the vest
in place.
Pin the center front and center back to
Draw up
belt.
and arrange on the
the gathers at the waist line
Pin.
belt.
Take
in
or
let
out
extra fullness at the seams on the right side.
Mark armhole
See that the waist does not wrinkle.
Fit neck.
Pin sleeves to place and notice length.
Look
for general lines
Mark new seam
lines if alterations are necessary.
Baste again and
refit to
see
if
alterations are properly
line.
and ease of
fit.
made.
Seams 7.
Waist, %-inch French seams.
Armhole, plain seam, bound. Skirt, plain seams.
Placket 8.
Continuous binding with binder.
Turn under
down by
the top edge and catch
hand.
The other edge
is
an extension.
left for
Finish at Waist Line 9.
Sew
skirt
Sew
waist to top of
and peplum
bottom of
Turn
in
to top of belt.
belt.
If a
long waist line
In that case
belt.
it
would be
hem
lower edge of waist and
is
desired,
well to allow
to belt, covering
the waist should be attached to 1
inch on the length.
raw edge of
skirt
and peplum.
Collar 10.
Your
collar
is
now
basted to waist with center back and notches matching, wrong side of
collar to right side of waist. all
Stitch
Lay
bias strip
1
inch wide to right side of collar and baste
around. T
4 inch from
Turn facing over
to
edge.
wrong
side of waist, turn in J4 inch
stitching exactly on the edge.
and
stitch to waist,
with the
first
Cuffs 11.
Double; lay right sides together and
wrong
to
side of sleeve.
stitch
Stitch.
on three
Turn
the
on the other edge of cuff and
Turn
l inch in /\
Turn
cuff back on sleeve.
sides.
seam down
Turn.
Lay wrong
side of cuff
into the cuff.
stitch to sleeve.
Belt or Girdle 12.
a.
Lay
Double.
right sides together, stitch
Turn
right side out.
Turn
in
edges at open end and
Hem
all
around the edges, leaving one end open.
stitch.
around, arrange on figure, and tack loosely at front, sides and back.
b.
Single.
c.
Ribbon or
a.
Sleeves
b.
An
c.
Vest
may
be tucked or trimmed with insertion.
d.
Vest
may
be
e.
Tunic may be tucked or trimmed with insertion
/.
Reversed hem,
all
silk.
Suggestions 13.
may
be short.
additional collar and cuff set
made
g.
Pockets
may
of tucked organdie.
of tucked organdie. to
correspond with
vest.
and cuffs may be piped with plaid if dress is of plain material, or narrow plaiting may be set in reversed hem, vest, collar and cuffs.
collar
vice versa; or
may be made
be added.
,-> :,